M^f;^-w'^-^ 






/.vtv?--^?Mr >J - • -v iB ^^ 



^i'^vi^^^i*^:!'*^'^^^'-' 



















> i<gS 



>?^^;j- v'^ 









W'yy-m 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



DDDQHElh374i 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Shelf .V 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




THE NEW 



DIXIE COOK - BOOK 



\ND PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER, 



^':^ 



A/ U£ 



CAREFULL Y COMPILED 



-/•> 



From the Treasured Family Collections of Many Generations 

OF Noted Housekeepers: Largely Sii^plemented by 

Tested Recipes of the More Modern Dishes, 

Contributed by Well-known Ladies 

North and South. 




"The Bkst is Noxe too Good.' 




Revised and Enlarged Edition. 



ATLANTA, GA.: 

L. A. Clarkson & Company, 

1889. 



Publishers' Notick. 



The New Dixik Cook-Book, and Practical Housekeeper, 
is a revised and enlarged edition of "Thk Unrhalled Dixie," and 
''Practical HorsEKKEPixi;,'' comprising the contents of botli 
works, with almost 600 additional pages of new and valuable mat- 
ter from'the highest authorities North and South. The new vol- 
ume thus embraces all that is choicest and most valuable in cook- 
ery and general housekeeping from every State and section of the 
I'nion. Earnestly trusting it will meet the demand for a reliable 
and complete manual for the housekeeper and home-maker, we sub- 
mit it to the public. 



Copyriuhted, 1!>><U, liy Estki.le W. Wii.cox. , 



To THE 

MOTHERS, WIVES and DAU<iHTEKS of the "SlUXNY SOl'TH," 

Who have so Ijravely faced the ilifficiiltios 

which new social conditions have imposed upon them as mistresses of Sontiiern hnmf 

an() on whose courage and fidelity in good or ill fortune 

Hic future of their beloved land must deiien<l, 

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED. 



COnSTTKNTS. 



BllEAD-MAKlNr, 

JiREAKI'A.sr AND TEA CAKES, (ToAST ANB YeAST) 

('ake-makini:, (Layeu Cakes, Crum.ers anu Dovg 

CKEAM6 AND CtlSTAIiDH 
CONIECTIONEnV .... 

Canning Fkuits .... 
Catsci's and Sauces 

Cheese 

]>RINKS 

Kaos, (Omelets) .... 
Kieii 

FeII'TEUS and CaOyUKTTES 

Fbuit (I>ried Fruits) . 

Game 

Griddle Cakes .... 
Ices and Jce Cream 

IciNO 

Jams and Jellies, (Fbiit Jellies and I)essert J 
Meats, (Gravies and Cold Meats 

Ml'811 

Ml'bhroomb 

J'astry 

Tickles, (Sweet Piikles) 

]'otatoes 

]'iniLTBV 

Preserves ..... 

I'UDDINGS ANDSaTikS . 

Salads ...... 

SiiELi.-nsit 

Suits 

V'EliETAHLES, (DlilED VE(;KTA r;LEs) 

Hills of fare for kverv day in 

Blanks for Addiiional recipes 

Cook's 'I'lME-TAiii.E 

Tahle of Weights a.vd Measures 

When Food is in Season 

Comparative Value of Fuel 

housekeeimno 

UiNiNo Room .... 

JIOW TO GIVE A 1>1N.NKR 

lUMNG Room Duts 
Garnishes a.nd Sauces 
Kitchen .... 

Kitchen Wrinkles 
KurcHEN Uten.sils 
Management of Help 
Hints About JIarketino 
CuTi INC and Curing Meats 
Carving .... 

HUTTER AND ChESSE 

Che.mistry of Food 
Cellar and Ice House 
Laundry .... 

SoMETHINi; AllOUT HaRIKS 

Hints for the Well . 
Hints for the Sick-boom . 
Food for the Sick 
Medical .... 

Accidents and Sudden Sickness 
The .Arts of the Toilet 
The Flower Garden . . 
Dressmaking at Ho.me 

lMlS( ELLANEOUS 

Ali'haiieticai. Index 



IINUTS AN 



D Gl 



-lillEAD) 



Pages. 

34—60 

61— 10-> 

loe— 128 

129—142 

H3— i.-jy 

160—181 

18'J-19t; 

107—224 

22.5—245 

246—288 

289—305 

307-348 

349-375 

376—383 

384—412 

413-429 

430— 4.'.2 

4.53—588 

580—594 

595—602 

603— G40 

641—670 

071— 093 

094-72(1 

724—731 

735-771 

772—796 

797—817 

818—851 

8.52-880 

881—908 

009—912 

013—014 

915—910 

917—919 

920-921 

922—950 

951—958 

959—971 

972—974 

975—981 

982—991 

991—1014 

1014-1016 

1017—1020 

11121—1034 

10.35-1053 

1054—1058 

10,59-1063 

1(J64— 1072 

1073—1081 

1082-11(10 

1101— Ills 

1110—1128 

1120— 11:14 

1134— lUa 

1144-1178 

1179—1186 

1187—1100 

1107—1211 

1212—1334 

1235—1261 

1262—1276 



fj^efjPlCh:. 



In a multitude of counsel is said to be wisdom. If this he 
true of anything, it certainly is of cookery. The Dixie Cook Book 
has not been made up by the use of the paste-pot and scissors, nor 
has it been gathered at random from doubtful sources, but has been 
culled, without stint of labor, time or expense, from the treasure- 
troves of hundreds of the best housekeepers of our land, who have 
long since subjected to practical test what is now offered for the 
benefit of others. A recipe is only valuable after thorough trial. 
Blunders in cookery cost money, and it is a self-evident fact that a 
few spoiled dishes represent the price of a good cook-])Ook, to say 
nothing of the vexation and chagrin which inevitably comes to 
the conscientious housekeeper, as the result of any culinary failure. 

The "cook-books" and "receipt-books" of the past few years 
have numbered legion; " of making them there has seemed to be 
no end ; " yet too often the use of them has proved " a weariness to 
the flesh." Some of their authors were good book-makers but i»oor 
bread-makers; others, while perfectly familiar with the subjects 
treated of, yet failed to clearly and fully describe the processes in 
detail. Recipes, without practical instructions or suggestions, prove 
of little utility to the inexperienced, and to write a recipe that can 
be readily understood and followed by anyone, is by no means an 
easy task. 

The lack of ordinary dishes, or those suited to the table of the 
great middle class, has been a feature of nearly all cocik-books. 
Fortunately it is becoming fashionable to economi/.e, and house- 
keepers are really finding a pleasure and satisfaction in searching 
out and seeking to stop the numberless household leaks, and in ex- 
ercising the thousand Ifttle economies which thoughtful and care- 
ful women understand so well and practice so gracefully, and a 
book which explains the principles and practice of economy, as the 
" Dixie " has attempted to do, will l>e welcome in many homes. 



Some one has asserted that a well-to-do French family will live 
on what an American household in the same condition of life 
throws away. Possibly this may not be a very great exaggeration, 
and we may i)erhai)s learn the fine art of si)ending money wisely, 
as well as that of dress, from our neighbors across the water. It is 
a satisfaction to those hou8ekeei)ers whose purses are not over-ple- 
thoric to realize that good cooking is not necessarily costly : but she 
should certainly rank as an artist in culinary skill who can com- 
pound a good and palatable dish from a limited larder. 

While the present volume contains recipes suited to all grades 
and stjdes of living, its one aim has been to pack between its covers 
the largest amount of practical information of real value to all; 
and it is believed the recipes will be found to be not only practi- 
cal, but while really excellent, yet not tending to extravagance. 

The instructions jireceding each department have been care- 
fully prepared, and will be found entirely trnstworty ; the recipes 
are all well endorsed. 

The suggestive chapters in the latter part of the book, cover a 
wide range of household subjects, and will prove of equal interest 
with the cookery department to the earnest housekeeper who readily 
seizes upon all timely hints and suggestions that may tend to sim- 
plify and systematize the labor of housekeeping and home-making 
or in any way help to lessen the friction of the domestic machinery. 

There has been no effort at display, the only purpose being to 
express ideas as clearly and concisely as possible, and to make a 
simple and practical work to meet the needs of earnest housekeep- 
ers of all classes. 

The arrangements of subjects treated has been made in the 
simple order of the alphabet so far as practicable, and for more 
ready reference a full alphabetical index has been added — a matter 
that will be appreciated by those whose time is of value. 

It is a woman's book, compiled and sold by womex, and in the 
interest of women, and will, it is believed, be fully appreciated by 
all earn'est women. 

Possil)ly, in the effort to avoid the mistakes of others, greater 
errors may have been committed ; but the book is sulmiitted just as 
it is to the generous judgment and intelligent consideration of 
Southern housekeepers, with the hope that it may in some degree 
lessen their perplexities and aid them in their successful and happy 
reign in " Woman's Kingdom" — the Home. 



BREAD-MAKING. 



BREAD- MAKINGS. 



There is an old and true saying, that "she, who has baked a good 
batch of bread has done a good day's work." Bread-making should 
stand at the head of domestic accomplishments, since the health and 
happiness of the family depends immeasurably upon good bread ; 
and there is certain to come a time in the experience of every true, 
thoughtful woman when she is glad and proud of her ability to 
make nice, sweet loaves, free from soda, alum, and other injurious 
ingredients, or bitterly regrets that she neglected to learn, or was so 
unfortunate as not to have been taught, at least the first requisites of 
good bread-making. 

Opinions as to what constitutes good bread differ, perhaps, as 
much as tastes and opinions concerning any thing else, but all will 
agree that bread, to be good, ought to be light, sweet — that is, free 
from any perceptible acid or yeasty taste — flaky, granular or not 
liable to become a doughy mass, and as white as the grade of flour 
used will allow. Persons with delicate digestive powers and child- 
ren should not use new bread, and therefore must have such as Avill 
keep with little change of texture and none of quality or taste for 
several days. To obtain these qualities in bread, use the best flour, 
as in families where no bread is wasted the best is cheapest. 

Housekeepers seldom select flour by examination. They usually 
take some tried brand, or select on the recommendation of their fur- 
nisher. No rule can be given by which an inexperienced person can 
determine the grade of flour with accuracy, but a few hints will 



8 BREAD-MAKING. 



enable any one to know what not to buy. Good flour adheres to the 
hand, and, when pressed, shows the imprint of the lines of the skin. 
Its tint is cream white. Never buy that which has a blue- white tinge. 
Poor flour is not adhesive, may be blown about easily, and some- 
times has a dingy look, as though mixed with ashes. 

Flour should be bought in quantities corresponding to the num- 
ber in the family, that it may not become damaged by long keeping. 
Old flour is said by professional bakers to be best for bread-making, 
provided it is kept perfectly pure and sweet, which is very difficult 
to do when surrounded, as is necessary in small households, by so 
many contaminating influences of odor, moisture, etc. For this 
reason it is better to buy in small quantities, depending upon the 
dealer to furnish that which is not newly ground. In a family of five, 
a barrel, or even a half-barrel sack of flour, excellent when first 
bought, will often become much deteriorated before being used up. 
Flour should be kept dry, cool and entirely beyond jsg^^»i^^^^ 
the reach of marauders, big or little, especially the p,^^^ s^^^ 
latter, for the infinitesimal meal moth is far more to be dreaded than 
rats or mice. The three, six and ten-gallon cans (about six pounds 
to a gallon) with tight tin covers, made by the manu- 
facturers of granite iron ware, are excellent for this pur- 
pose, and not expensive considering their durability. 
Every receptacle of flour should be thoroughly and fre- 
quentl}^ cleansed, to guard against animal as well as 
vegetable parasites. A single speck of mold, coming 
from old or damp flour in an obscure corner of the flour- 
box, will leaven the whole as rapidly and strongly as ten times its 
weight in yeast. 

Bread-making seems a simple process enough, but it requires a 
delicate care and watchfulness, and a thorough knowledge of all the 
contingencies of the process, dependent on the different qualities of 
flour, and the var\'ing kinds and conditions of yeast, and the change 
of seasons ; the process which raises bread successfully in winter 
making it sour in summer. There are many little things in bread- 
making which require accurate observation, and, while valuable rec- 
ipes and well-defined methods in detail are invaluable aids, noth- 
ing but experience will secure the name merited by so few, though 
earnestly coveted by every practical, sensible housekeeper — "an 




BREAD-MAKING. 



excellent bread-maker." Three things are indispensable to success : 
good flour, good yeast, and watchful care. Never 
use flour without sifting; this is done with a 
plain sieve like that represented in the illustra- 
tion or with some one of the many patent sieves 
which are more rapid but not 
always more satisfactory, and 
a large tin or wooden pail with 
a tight-fitting cover, kept full 
Flour Sieve. ^f gifted flour, wlll be found 

a great convenience. All kinds of flour and meal, 

except buckwheat and Graham — and Graham, 

too, when coarse — need sifting, and all, like 

wheat flour, should be bought in small quantities, 

as they become damp and musty by long standing. 

THE YEAST. 








After the flour, the yeast or leaven is the next essential element 
in bread. For regular fare most, especially women, prefer "yeast 
bread," but men who can not forget ''how mother used to cook," 
have a liking for "salt-rising" bread, and the latter deserves the ac- 
quaintance of the housekeeper and a frequent welcome on the fam- 
ily table. The dry hop yeast, such as Twin Bros., Stratton's, 
National, Eagle, Gillett's and many others, also the compressed 
yeast, are all good, if fresh, and always available, for they are found 
in every grocery. Many housekeepers use baker's yeast, and buy 
for a penny or two what will serve each baking of bread. For those 
who prefer home-made or potato yeasts excellent recipes are else- 
where given. Potato yeast has two advantages over other kinds ; 
bread made from it keeps moist longer, and there is no danger that 
an excess of yeast will injure the flavor of the bread. Less of any 
kind of yeast should be used in hottest summer weather, and more 
in extreme cold weather. 

THE SPONGE. 

This is made from warm* water or milk, yeast and flour (some 
add mashed potatoes, which should be mashed quickly while tender, 
hot and mealy, being careful to remove all lumps, or mash through 
a colander, then add a little flour with a spoon, and stir, then a lit- 
tle water, and stir, and so on, mixing the flour and water with the 



10 BREAD-MAKING. 




potatoes gradually) mixed together in the proportion of one pint 
wetting (water or milk) to two pints 
of sifted flour. If milk is used it 
should be new, and must be first 
scalded, and then cooled to blood 
heat. The scalding tends to pre- 
vent souring. In using water bring coiander. 
it to blood heat. If the "wetting" is too hot, the bread will be 
coarse. When water is used a tablespoon* of lard or butter makes 
the bread more tender. Bread made from milk is, of course, more 
tender and nutritious, but it has not the sweet taste of the wheat, and 
will not keep as long as that made from water. When mixed with 
milk it requires less flour and less kneading. In summer, care must 
be taken not to set sponge too early, at least not before eight or nine 
o'clock in the evening. Sponge mixed with bran water, Avarm in 
winter and cold in summer, makes sweeter bread. Boil bran in the 
proportion of one pint to a quart of water and strain. In very hot 
weather, sponge may be made with cold water. In winter, mix the 
batter with water or milk at blood warmthj testing it with the finger, 
and making it as warm as can be borne ; stir in the flour, which will 
cool it sufficiently for the yeast ; cover closely and place in a warm 
and even temperature. A good plan is to fold a clean blanket several 
times, and cover Avith it, providing the sponge is set in a very large 
crock or jar, so that there is no danger of its running over. As 
a general rule, one small tea-cup of yeast and three pints of "wet- 
ting" will make sponge enough for four ordinary loaves. In all 
sponges add the yeast last, making sure that the sponge is not hot 
enough to scald it ; when placed to rise, always cover closely. In 
cold weather the temperature runs down very quickly in many 
kitchens after the fire is out, and the bread should be set earlier in 
the evening and in a warmer place ; a temperature of eighty to ninety 
degrees is right. 

When it rises well for the first tAvo hours it will go on rising 
unless the temperature falls beloAV t]ie freezing point. It is an im- 
provement to leat the sponge thorotighly ^ like batter for a cake, for 
fifteen minutes or longer. Never set sponge in tin, but alAA'ays in 
stoneware, because a more steady and uniform heat can be main- 

*Whenever, in this bonk, the words cupful, coffotvcu' f'll, tcu-cupful, table-spoonful, etc., 
occur, the termiuatlon "ful" is dropped, for the sake of brevity. 



BREAD-MAKING. 11 




tained in a stone jar than in tin. Use a six-quart jar for the sponge, 
which when light enough to mix will have risen almost to top of jar 
and be covered with fine white bubbles. If left standing too long 
the sponge will sink in the middle, which is an indication that it is 
slightl}^ sour, and soda must be used to sweeten before using, in the 
proportion of a half-teaspoon to a quart of wetting. 
To make good hread — Always be 

"Up in the morning early, just at the peep of day," 

in summer time, to prevent the sponge becoming sour by. too long 
standing, and in winter to be getting materials warmed and in readi- 
ness for use. A large, seamless, tin dish pan with handles and a 
tight-fitting cover, kept for this purpose 
alone, is better than a wooden bowl for 
bread. A fourteen-quart pan is a good 
size when three pints wetting is used. It 
should be thoroughly washed and scalded 
every time it is used. Measure and sift the flour. It is convenient 
to keep two quart cups, one for dry and the other for liquid measur- 
ing. In the winter always warm the flour (by placing it in a pan in 
a warm oven for a few minutes or by setting it overnight where it 
will be kept at the same temperature as the sponge), and also the 
sponge. Put the flour in a bread pan, make a large well in the cen- 
ter, into which pour the sponge, adding two level teaspoons of salt 
(this is the quantity for four loaves of bread) ; mix well, being care- 
ful not to get the dough too stiff"; turn out on the bread-board, rub 
the pan clean, and add the "rubbings" to the bread. Knead for 
from forty-five minutes to one hour, or until the dough ceases to 
stick to either the board or hands. Do not stop kneading until done. 
Any pause in the process injures the bread. The process of knead- 
ing is very important ; use just as little flour in kneading as will 
prevent sticking, and practice will enable one to make a little flour 
go a great Avay. Some good bread-makers knead with the palms of 
the hands until the dough is a flat cake, then fold once, repeating 
this operation until the dough is perfectly smooth and elastic ; oth- 
ers close their hands and press hard and quickly into the dough with 
the fists, dipping them into the flour when the dough sticks ; or after 
kneading, chop with the chopping knife and then knead again ; oth- 
ers still knead with a potato masher, thinking it a great saving of 
strength. Another method, used by good bread-makers, is to raise 



12 



BREAD-MAKING. 




the whole mass and drop or dash it with considerable force upon the 
mixing-board or table for several minutes. No exact directions can 
be given in regard to kneading, but experience and practice will 
prove the best guides. There are one or two machines for kneading 
bread that save labor, and which may be purchased in any house- 
furnishing store in the larger cities. After the bread is thoroughly 
kneaded, form into a round mass or large loaf, sprinkle the bread- 
pan well with flour, and, having placed the loaf in it, sprinkle flour 
lightly on the top (some grease the top with salted lard or butter in- 
stead of sprinkling with flour), cover closely, 
and set to rise in a warm temperature, 70° to 
80° ; let it rise to twice its original size this time, 
or until it seams or cracks on top, say from one 
to tAvo hours, differing in time with the season 
of the year. Have the baking pans already 
greased with fresh, sweet lard, or American Bread Paa with cov^r. 
Cooking Oil (as butter burns more easily), knead the dough down 
in the pan, cut into equal parts, place one at a time on the board, 
mold each into a smooth, oblong loaf (handling as little as possible), 
not too large, and put one after another into the prepared baking- 
pan ; grease the tops of the loaves with salted lard or butter, greas- 
ing between them also, when several are baked in one pan, to insure 
easy and even separation, and set to rise. Or the loaves may be 
made by buttering the hands, and taking enough from the mass to 
form a loaf, molding it into shape mi the hands, without using flour. 
This insures a nice, brown, tender crust. Loaves made in the French 
style, long and narrow, are about half crust, and more easily digested 
the action of heat anticipating part of the digestive process. In mold- 
ing do not leave any lumps or loose flour 
^^^^^ adhering to the outside, but mold until the 
loaves are perfectly smooth. No particu- 
lar directions can be given in regard to the time bread should stand 
after it is molded and placed in the 
pans, because here is the point where 
observation and judgment are so in- 
dispensable. In hot weather, when 
the yeast is very good and the bread 
very light, it must not stand over fifteen minutes before placing to 
bake. If it is cold weather, and the yeast is less active, or th« bread 




Bread Set to Rise. 



BREAD-MAKING. 18 




not perfectly raised, it may sometimes stand an hour in the pans 
without injury. When it is risen so as to seam or crack, it is ready 
for the oven ; if it stands after this it becomes sour, and even if it 
does not sour it loses its freshness and sweetness, and the bread be- 
comes dry sooner after baking. Bread should undergo but two fer- 
mentations ; the saccharine or sweet 
fermentation, and the vinous, when 
it smells something like foaming beer. 
The housewife who would have good, 
sweet bread, must never let it pass this 
Bread Ready for Oven. changc, bccausc thc third or acetous 

fermentation then takes place. This last can be remedied by adding 
soda in the proportion of one teaspoon to each quart of wetting ; or, 
which is the same thing, a teaspoon to two quarts of flour ; but the 
bread will be much less nutritious and healthful, and some of the 
best elements of the flour will be lost. Always add salt to all breads 
as the dough will rise better, but neve?' salt sponge. The best to use 
is an English salt, as it has less of the fishy taste than American salt 
and a much more delicate flavor. A small quantity of white sugar is an 
improvement to all bread dough and some add a little lard, but if 
any shortening is used the American Cooking Oil is much nicer for 
either bread, rolls or biscuits. Bread should always be mixed as 
soft as it ca7i he handled, but in using the "new process" flour made 
from spring wheat, the dough requires to be much harder than is 
necessary when using that made from winter wheat. 

Good bread-makers differ widely as to the number of times 
bread should rise, some insisting that the rule of our good grand- 
mothers, who only allowed it to rtse once, insures the sweetest and 
most nutritious bread, and that in all subsequent fermentations a 
decomposition takes place that is damaging to the wholesome qual- 
ities of the "staff" of life." 

In making the French loaf, an easy way 
is to bake it in Vienna Roll pan. 

A new innovation in bread-mal£ing is the 
use of compressed yeast, tending much ^vi^SSTK^I^TT 

towards simplifying and shortening the process, and by many con- 
sidered a most perfect method. The recipe given hereafter is a 
complete guide. 




14 BREAD-MAKING. 




Every housekeeper should provide herself with what is called by- 
bakers a "proof-box" for placing bread, biscuit, rolls, etc., (already in 
the bread-pan) in during the process of rising. This ^^■m 
is nothing more nor less than an air-tight wooden 
box that can be made by anyone at all familiar with Ruaudcume™.! Bread pan. 
the use of tools, and its size should of course depend upon the 
size of the family, which in turn regulates the quantity of dough to 
be raised. Beside giving the dough this protection, the careful bak- 
er also folds a cloth or towel around it before putting on the close- 
fitting cover of the box. Kept thus excluded from the air the out- 
side of the loaves or rolls is as fresh and tender when put in the 
oven as the inside. Set the box near the range where it will receive 
the necessary warmth, and be sure that it is kept perfectly sweet 
and clean, using it for no other purposes whatever. Air and dry 
the box thoroughly each time before using. 

TO BAKE BREAD. 

Here is the important point, for the bread may be perfect thus 
far and then be spoiled in baking. No definite rules can be given 

that apply equally well to every stove and range ; 

but one general rule must be observed, which is, to 
Bread and Biscuit paus. ' havc a Steady, moderate heat, such as is more 
minutely described in the directions for baking large cakes. The 
oven must be just hot enough ; if too hot, a firm crust is formed be- 
fore the bread has expanded enough, and it will be heavy. To test 
the heat, place a teaspoon of flour on an old piece of crockery (to 
secure an even heat), and set in middle of the oven ; if it browns in 
one minute the heat is right. An*oven in which the bare hand and 
arm can not be held longer than to count twenty moderately is hot 
enough ; or the ''paper test" is to put half a sheet of writing paper in 
the oven ; if it catches fire it is too hot ; open the dampers and wait 
ten minutes, when put in another piece of paper ; if it blackens it is 
still too hot. Ten minutes later put in a third piece ; if it gets dark 
hrown the oven is right for all small pastry, called ^^dark hrown pa- 
per heaty Light hrown paper heat is suitable for vol-au-vents or 
fruit pies. Dark yellmv paper heat for large pieces of pastry or 
meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. Light yelloio paper heat for 
sponge cake, meringues, etc. To obtain these various degrees of 
k»at, try paper every ten minutes till heat required for the purpoi* 




BRHAD-MAKIN«. 15 




is attained. Remember that "light yellow" means paper only tinged ; 
"dark yellow," paper the color of ordinary pine wood ; "light brown" 
is only a shade darker, about the color of nice pie-crust, and dark 
brown a shade darker, by no means coffee color. The attention of 
stove-makers seems never to have been directed to the fact that there 
is no accurate means of testing the heat of ovens, but it is to be 
hoped that in the near future some simple device, or practical ap- 
plication of the thermometer, may be found which will render un- 
necessary such inaccurate and untrustworthy tests as must now be 
used, and thus reduce baking to a science; and even now 
busy brains are at work to secure this result, prompted by 
a suggestion in our first edition. The oven door should be closed 
immediately upon putting the bread in, and be sure that 
no part of the range is open during the baking ; 
neither should the door be opened too soon nor too 
often to look at the bread. About ten minutes ^o^i Bread PaZ 
after putting in the loaves it is best to look into the oven to see how 
the bread is doing, and once or twice again during the baking, as 
the loaves may require changing, opening and closing the door as 
quickly as possible. If the loaves begin to brown too quickly cover 
with a piece of thick brown paper; if they begin to brown quickly at 
one end and not at the other change their position, or if the loaf at 
the back of the oven bakes faster than those at the front change them 
about. To test whether the bread is done, break the loaves apart 
and press gently with the finger; if elastic, it is done, but if clammy 
not done, and must be returned to the oven ; or, if the loaves are 
single, test with a straw plucked from a broom. Break off the 
branches and thurst the larger end into the loaf; if it is sticky when 
withdraAvn, the bread is not done, but if free from dough it is ready 
to be removed from the oven. The little projections on the straw, 
where the branches have been broken off, catch and bring out the 
dough, when not thoroughly baked. Another test is to knock on 
the loaf with the closed hand ; if it sounds hollow, the bread is done, 
but under-done or heavy bread will give forth a dull sound. 

As a quantity of dough to begin with somewhat reduces the 
temperature of the oven at first, one loaf will not require so hot an 
oven as four or five. The time required for baking is not less than 
three-quarters of an hour, and bread baked a full hour is more 
wholesome and is generally considered more palatable. If bread in 



16 BREAD-MAKING. 




baked in the French roll pan it does not require so long a time, as 

the "rolls" are only about two and a half to 

three inches deep and same width, being 

rounded at the bottom. They are very nice for 

slicing, making pretty sized pieces. The pans ^^^^^^ j^^„ ^^^ 

come in different lengths, eight, twelve, sixteen and twenty inches. 

All loaves of bread of whatever shape, and biscuit, rolls, etc., are much 

nicer if when almost baked they are carefully moved out on oven 

^ ^, — - ^^ shelf and brushed, using the pastry brush, with 

„ „ 'S m i 'ir^ the Holl Glaze, which is two eggs beaten with 

Pastry Brush. ' oc5 

twice their bulk in water and half teaspoon sugar, and then returned 
to oven till done. When removed from the oven, take the loaves 
out of the pan, grease the entire outer crust with melted butter, and 
tilt them on edge, so as to secure a free circulation of air. It is bet- 
ter not to cover bread while warm, unless with a light cloth to keep 
off flies. Thoroughly exposed to the air the surface cools /irst, in- 
suring a crisp crust and the retention of the moisture in the loaf. 
There are those, however, who follow successfully the plan of wrap- 
ping bread, as soon as it is removed from the oven, in a coarse towel 
or bread-cloth. Never put warm bread next to wood, as the part in 
contact will have a bad taste. Spread a cloth over the table before 
placing the bread on it ; or have an oaken board for the purpose, 
covered with heavy white flannel, and over this spread a fresh 
linen bread-cloth, and lay the bread on it right side up, with a thin 
covering to keep off flies, placing it at once in the fresh air 
to cool ; but the "bread cooler" illustrated on page 20 is 
better than either of the above Avays. The best pan for r^ 
bread, and many prefer it for cake, is made of Russia iron (which is 
but little more costly than tin and will last many times as long), 
about f(nir ])y ten inches on the bottom, flaring to the top, and 
about four and one-half inches deep. The pan should be greased 
very lightly. 

If by accident or neglect the bread is baked too hard, rub the loaf 
over with butter, wet a towel and wrap it in it, and cover with another 
dry towel. In winter, bread dough may be kept sweet several days 
by placing it where it will be cold without freezing, or by putting it 
so deep into the flour barrel as to exclude it entirely from the air. 
When wanted for use, make into bread, or, by adding the proper in- 
gredients, into cake, rusk, biscuit, apple dumplings, chicken pie, etc. 




Russia IroQ Pan. 



BREAD-MAKING. 



17 




Bread & Cake Box. 



When the Iread is cold, place in a stone jar or tin box, which 
must be thoroughly washed, scalded and dried each bak- 
ing day. Another good receptacle for bread is a tin wash- 
boiler Avith a close cover, kept for this purpose alone, 
but a still better one is the tin box with shelves as illus- 
trated. When small single loaf pans are used, the bread 
may be removed to cool, the pans washed and dried, 
and the loaves afterwards replaced each in its pan, and 

then set away in a box or boiler. The pan helps to keep the bread 

moist and palatable for several days. 

There are three critical points in the process of bread-making : 
the condition of the yeast, which must never be used if sour ; the 
temperature where the bread is set to rise, which must not be so hot 
as to scald ; and the temperature of the oven, which must be uni- 
form, neither too hot nor too cold. 

In cutting warm bread for the table, heat the knife, and whethe r 

be eaten. It is better to replenish the Bread Knife. 

bread-plate once or even twice during a meal than to have slices 
left over to dry up and waste. 

When using coal, put into the fire-box enough to finish the bak- 
ing ; adding more during the process is apt to render the oven-heat 
irregular. When wood is used, make a good hot fire, see that the 
stove has a good, free draft, and let it cool to an even, steady heat 
before putting the bread in the oven. The finest bread may be com- 
pletely spoiled in baking, and a freshly-made fire can not be easily 
regulated. 

Attention to neatness, important in all cookery, is doubly im- 
portant in bread-making. Be sure that the hair is neatly combed 
and put up (which ought to be done before the dress is put on in 
the morning), and that the hands, arms and finger-nails are scru- 
pulously clean. A neat calico apron with bib, using safety pins in 
fastening, and sleeves of dress well-tucked up and fastened so that 
they will not come down, add much to the comfort in this the most 
important task of the kitchen queen. 

A great advance has been made in milling during the past few 
years, the flour made by the "New Process." as it is called, being much 



18 BREAD-MAKING. 



more nutritious than the old-fashioned white flour, which contained 
very little of the gluten of the wheat. The "New Process" 'flour 
made at the great Minneapolis mills from the hard spring wheat 
grown in the Northwest, brings the highest price of any flour in the 
market and is the strongest and best. Another flour known as the 
Whole Wheat Four is excellent for bread-making and is reduced as 
is claimed by a secret process. It is made into bread by the same 
recipes as white flour. Many preparations of wheat and grain are sold 
by grocers which are prepared by spome special process, and are 
excellent in their way, though more expensive than the plain flour. 
Among these are the Health Food. Granula and various prepara- 
tions of the kind. Graham is often made from the poorest wheat, 
but some mills, like Readshaw's at Dansville, New York, make a 
specialty of Graham, cracked wheat, and rye flour, and corn meal 
from selected grain, and furnish a choice article which is much more 
wholesome and just as cheap as the inferior article. Cerealine, a 
new preparation, is a flaky substance, the product of white Indian 
corn, readily soluble, easily digested, and containing a large pro- 
portion of nitrogenous matter. A valuable peculiarity of this pro- 
duct is that it can not be prepared from unsound grain. 
It is certainly the highest and most scientific product of corn 
that has been introduced for public consideration, and is sometimes 
called Shredded Maize. It somewhat resembles cocoanut, only it is 
in small flakes, but when sprinkled on cake has quite the appear- 
ance of cocoanut. Griddle cakes, muffins, bread, breakfast rolls and 
sweet puddings are delicious made of it, and in fact it can enter into 
the preparing of any recipe where flour is used, using generally half 
cerealine and half flour. 

There is also a brown-bread preparation, recently introduced, 
which saves much of the difficult details necessary to make this ex- 
cellent Boston dish ; and when two boiled potatoes are rubbed 
through a sieve, thinned with nearly a pint of water and then the 
meals added, or the directions with package as above followed, the 
bread is simply perfect. For fuller directions in regard to flours, 
etc., see Marketing. 

GRAHAM AND CORN BREAD. 

It is very desirable that every family should have 
a constant supply of bread made of unbolted flour, or rye 
and Indian corn. Most persons find it palatable,and it promotes 



BREAD-MAKING. 19 



health. For these coarse breads always add a little brown sugar or 
molasses, and the amount given in the recipes may be increased ac- 
cording to taste. They rise quicker and in a less warm atmosphere 
than without sweetening. A little lard or butter improves bread or 
cakes made of Graham or Indian meal, rendering them light and 
tender. Graham rises rather more quickly than fine flour (as the 
whole wheat flour contains a larger proportion of gluten, and fermen- 
tation is more rapid), and should not be allowed to rise quite as 
light. The pans should be greased more thoroughly for Graham and 
corn bread than for that made from fine flour. The fire 
should be steady and sufficient to complete the baking, and the oven 
hot when the bread is put in. A fresh blaze will burn the crust, 
while a steady fire will sweeten it. Graham bread bakes more slowly 
than fine-flour bread, and corn bread requires more time and a hotter 
oven than either. Use either yellow or white corn, ground coarse, 
for mush, and white, ground fine, for bread, etc. In cutting the lat- 
ter while Avarm, heat the knife, and hold it perpendicularly. Rye is 
said to absorb more moisture from the air than any other grain ; 
hence, all bread from this meal needs a longer application of heat, 
and keeps moister after being baked than that made from other grain. 
Rye meal is much better than rye flour for making all kinds of bread 
and muffins, but the meal, like the old fashioned corn or Indian 
meal, grows musty in a short time in hot weather, so that but a small 
quantity should be bought at a time. 

In most families there is a large amount of corn or Indian meal 
used, but the quantity purchased at a time depends upon the kind 
of meal selected. The common kind, which is made by grinding 
between two mill-stones, retains a great deal of moisture, and, in 
hot weather, will soon grow musty ; but the granulated meal will 
keep for any length of time. The corn for this meal is first dried ; 
and it takes about two years for this. Then the outer husks are re- 
moved, and the corn is ground by a process that produces grains 
like granulated sugar. After once using this meal one will not will- 
ingly go back to the old kind. Indian meal is made from two kinds 
of corn, Northern and Southern. The former gives the yellow meal, 
and is much richer than the Southern, of which white meal is made. 
All steamed brown breads are better when put to steam over cold 
water which is then brought to boiling point and kept constantly 
boiling until the bread is done. Sweet milk may be used in place of 



20 BREAD-MAKING, 



sour, and vies versa, remembering that the proportions are one level 
teaspoon soda to one pint sour milk, and with sweet milk two heap- 
ing teaspoons baking powder, or two teaspoons cream tartar and one 
of soda, to one quart flour. 



Sponge for Winter Use. — Peel and boil four or five medium 
sized potatoes in two quarts water (which will boil down to one 
quart by the time the potatoes are cooked) ; when done, take out and 
press through a colander, or mash very fine in the crock in which 
the sponge is to be made ; make a well in the center, into which put 
one cup flour, and pour over it the boiling water from the potatoes ; 
stir thoroughly, and when cool add a pint of tepid water, flour enough 
to make a thin batter, and one cup yeast. This sponge makes very 
moist bread. 

Bread Sponge and Bread. — Six potatoes boiled and mashed 
while hot, two tablespoons each white sugar and butter, one quart 
tepid water ; into tliis stir three cups flour ; beat to a smooth batter, 
add six tablespoons yeast; set overnight, and in the morning 
knead in sufficient flour to make a stiff, spongy dough ; knead vig- 
orously for fifteen minutes, set away to rise, and when light knead 
for ten minutes ; mold out into moderate-sized loaves, and let rise 
until they are like delicate or sponge-cake. 

Bread Sponge and Bread. — Five pints warm water, five quarts 
sifted flour, one coffee-cup yeast ; mix in a two-gallon stone jar, cover 
closely, and set in a large tin pan, so that if the sponge rises over 
the top of the jar the drippings may fall into the pan. Set to rise 
the evening before baking. In the winter be careful to set in a warm 
place. In the morning sift six quarts flour into a pail, pour the 
sponge into a bread-pan or bowl, add two tablespoons salt, then 
the flour gradually ; mix and knead well, using up nearly all the 
flour. This first kneading is the most important, and should occupy 
at least twenty minutes. Make the bread in one large loaf, set away 
in a warm place, and cover with a cloth. It ought to rise in half an 
hour, when it should be kneaded thoroughly again for ten minutes. 
Then take enough dough for three good-sized loaves (a quart bowl 

of dough to each), give five 
minutes' kneading to each loaf, 
and place to rise in a dripping- 
pan well greased with lard. 
The loaves will be light in five 

Cooler for Bread after B.kiog. qj. |gj-^ niinUtCS, BUd WiU bake 

in a properly heated oven in half an hour. Make a well in the cen- 
ter of the remaining dough, and into it put a half tea-cup of white 
sugar, one tea-cup of lard^ and two eggs, which mix thoroughly with 




BREAD-MAKING. 



21 



the dousjh, knead into one large loaf, set in a warm place about 
fifteen minutes to rise, and, Avhen light, knead five mniutes and let 
rise again for about ten minutes, when it should be light. Take out 
of pan and knead on bread-board, roll about an inch m thickness, 
cut out with a biscuit-cutter, and place in dripping-pan ; let rise 
five minutes and bake twenty minutes. In winter more time must 
be allowed for rising. This makes three loaves and ninety biscuit. 

Bread— ^Qi sponge at nine o'clock in the evening in summer, 
and keep it in a cool place ; or at noon and make it up m the even- 
ing. Do not keep in the cellar or it will sour. In the winter set it 
at six o'clock at night and place where it will keep warm. For the 
sponge use one yeast cake soaked in lukewarm water, three potatoes 
boiled and mashed fine and one pint flour. Scald with the boiling 
potato Avater, adding the yeast aftfer the mixture has become cool, 
and mixing to a smooth paste. Add a teaspoon salt and beat fifteen 
minutes. When the sponge foams it is risen sufficientlv ; then add 
a pint warm water and flour to make a smooth dough that will not 
stick to the fingers, set in a warm place, and when full of cells work 
in all the flour possible. Let it rise and knead until the gas stops 
cracking. Make into loaves, let rise, and increase the heat of the 
oven after the first twenty minutes of baking. 

Apple Bread.— To make bread from apples or other fruits, pare 
them, put them over the fire and stew them tender, adding a little 
sugar if they are very sour; then pulp them through a_ sieve. Use 
this pulp as the basis of bread ; mix one pound of fruit pulp with 
two pounds flour, teaspoon salt, one gill liquid yeast, and water 
enough to make a soft dough ; knead, make into loaves, let rise and 
bake as ordinary bread. Pears and other fruits may also be used, 
the fact being remembered that the juice of fruit must not be ex- 
.=?tacted, but must be allowed to replace water or milk in making the 
bread. Fruit breads should be eaten with some precaution, as their 
action mav be laxative ; in this connection it may be well to give a 
good recipe for a harmless vegetable bread of the same nature. 

Bean Bread.— The use of potatoes in bread is well known, but 
not so the fact that beans, parsnips, carrots, turnips, beets and SAveet 
potatoes mav be employed either for purposes of variety or economy ; 
any of these vegetables may be used after being boiled and reduced 
to a puree, or pulp, according to the directions given below, care be- 
ing taken to extract their moisture by rolling the puree lengthwise 
in a strong towel, and then squeezing it as dry-as possible by having 
the ends of the towel twisted tight by two persons. 

Bread with Buttermilk.— The evening before baking, bring to 
the boiling point two quarts buttermilk (or boil sour milk and 
take the same quantity of the whey), and pour into a crock in which 



22 BREAD-MAKING. 



a scant tea-cup sifted flour has been placed. Let stand till suffi- 
ciently cool, then add half a cup of 3'east, and flour to make a thick 
batter ; the better and longer the sponge is stirred the whiter will be 
the bread. In the morning sift the flour into the bread-pan, pour 
the sponge in the center, stir in some of the flour, and let stand until 
after breakfast ; then mix, kneading for about half an hour, the 
longer the better ; when light, mold into loaves, this time kneading 
as little as possible. The secret of good bread is having good yeast, 
and not baking too hard. This makes four loaves and forty biscuit. 

Hop- Yeast Bread. — One tea-cup yeast, three pints warm water ; 
make a thin sponge at tea time, cover and let it remain two hours or 
until very light. By adding the water to the flour first and having 
the sponge quite Avarm, it is never necessary to put the sponge over 
hot water or in an oven to make it rise. Knead into a loaf before 
going to bed ; in the morning mold into three loaves, spreading a 
little lard between as they are put in the pan. When light, bake one 
hour, having oven quite hot when the bread is put in, and very mod- 
erate when it is done. (Bread made in this way is never sour or 
heavy.) To have fine, light biscuit, add shortening at night, and in 
the morning make into biscuit and bake for breakfast. By this re- 
cipe bread is baked before the stove is cold from breakfast, and out 
of the way for other baking. 

Bread with Potato Sponge. — Pare and boil four or five potatoes, 
mash fine, and add one pint flour ; pour on the mixture first boil- 
ing water enough to moisten well, then about one quart cold water, 
after which add flour enough to make stiff batter. When cooled to 
"scarcely milk-warm," put in one-half pint (or more will do no 
harm) of yeast, and let it stand in a warm place overnight ; in the 
morning add to this sponge one cup lard, stir in flour, and knead 
well. The more kneading the finer and whiter the bread will be; 
pounding also with a potato-masher improves the bread greatly, and 
is rather easier than so much kneading. When quite stiff and well 
worked and pounded, let it rise again, and when light make into 
loaves or biscuit, adding no more flour except to flour the hands and 
board — merely enough to prevent the bread from sticking. Let it 
rise again, then bake ; and immediately after taking from the oven 
wrap in a wet towel until partly cold, in order to soften the crust. If 
1/east and tfour are good {essentials in all cases), the above process 
will make good bread. 

Foor-Maivs Bread. — One pint buttermilk or sour milk, one 
level teaspoon soda, a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make as 
stiff as soda-biscuit dough ; cut into three pieces, handle as little as 
possif:>le, roll an inch thick, place in dripping-pan, bake twenty or 
f Inrfy minutes in a hot oven, and when done Avrap in a bread cloth. 
Kat Avinle warm, breaking open like a biscuit. Each cake will be 
•about ftie size of a pie. 



BREAD-MAKING. 23 



Bread with Potatoes. — To one quart blood-warm water or 
milk (if milk is used, it must first be scalded and then cooled to 
blood neat), take two quarts sifted flour and one tea-cup fresh potato 
yeast. Put the milk or water into a one-gallon stone crock and stir 
the flour gradually into it, then add the yeast, beating it vigorously 
for fifteen minutes ; set to rise in a warm place, putting the crock in 
a pan (to catch the drippings if it should run over). If in winter, 
mix it as early as six or seven o'clock in the evening. Cover very 
closely with a clean white cloth, with a blanket over it, kept purpose- 
ly for this (the cloths for bread should not be used for any thing 
else). In the morning, sift three quarts of flour into the bread-pan, 
setting it in the oven for a few minutes to bring it to the same tem- 
perature as the sponge. Pare six medium-sized potatoes, and boil 
them in three pints water; when thoroughl}^ cooked, remove the 
potatoes and pour the boiling hot water (which will now be about 
one quart) over the flour, stirring it with a spoon. Mash the pota- 
toes very fine, and beat them as if for the table ; mix them in the 
flour, and when cooled to blood heat pour in the sponge, and mix 
well. Add more wetting or flour if needed, rub off all that adheres 
to the sides of the pan, and mix with the dough, kneading it from 
forty-five minutes to one hour ; then place the pan to rise, cover 
closely with the cloth and blanket, setting it where there is no draft 
(this is imperative). When it has risen to twice its size, knead down 
in the pan, take one quRrt of dough for each loaf, knead each five 
minutes with quick, elastic movements, grease the sides of the loaves 
with sweet, melted butter if two or more are placed in the same pan ; 
or the loaves may be greased all over lightly before placing in the 
pan, a process which adds much to the sweetness of the crust. The 
pan should be thoroughly but lightly greased. Let rise until as large 
again as when molded, then bake. Have your oven moderately 
heated at first, with a fire in the stove that will keep it of a uniform 
temperature. (For manner of testing oven, see general instructions 
for bread-making). Bake from three-quarters of an hour to one 
hour and a quarter, according to the size of the loaves, during which 
time the bread should be carefully watched to see that the proper de- 
gree of heat is steadily kept up. Before browning they will have 
risen to double their size when placed in the oven. The heat of the 
oven is all important, for if too hot the loaves will not rise suffi- 
ciently ; if too cold they will rise too much, and the bread will be 
coarse and porous. When done, place on side, and cool without 
covering. Never use flour without sifting, as sifting enlivens and 
ferates the floor, and makes both mixing and rising easier and quick- 
er. Quick rising makes whiter bread, and it is very necessary that 
in all its different risings bread should be mixed as soon as ready. 

Bread Raised Once. — No other yeast is made with so little 
trouble as potato yeast. Bread made from it keeps moist longer, and 



24 BREAD-MAKING, 



there is no danger of injuring the flavor of the bread by using too 
much. When plentifully used, a beautiful, light, sweet, fine-grained 
bread is produced by only one rising, thus saving not only time and 
trouble, but also, what is more important, the sweet flavor and nutri- 
tious qualities which greatly suffer by the second fermentation, almost 
universally practiced. When this fact is thoroughly understood, 
every one will appreciate the importance of checking excessive fer- 
mentation, during which decomposition actually takes place, and 
the delicate, foamy loaves, "yeasted to death," which so many fam- 
ilies now use and call the " staff" of life," will give place to the sweet, 
substantial, home-made loaves, such as our good mothers and grand- 
mothers kneaded with their own skilled hands. 

Take care that the yeast is good and " lively," for, without this, 
failure is certain. To make three loaves of bread, warm and lightly 
grease the baking-pans, sift three quarts or more of flour into the 
bread-pan, press down the middle, and into it put two small table- 
spoons of fine salt; pour in slowly one quart of milk-warm Avater, 
constantly stirring with one hand in the flour, until a thin l)atter is 
formed ; add a pint or more of potato yeast or one tea-cup of hop 
yeast, or one 3'^east cake dissolved in warm water, or a piece of 
compressed yeast as large as a walnut, dissolved in the same 
manner. Mix thoroughly, adding more and more flour, until a 
stiff" dough is formed ; place on the bread-board, knead vigor- 
ously for twenty minutes or more, floifl-ing the board frequently 
to prevent the dough from sticking to it, divide into loaves of a size 
to suit pans, mold into a comely shape, place in pans, rub over the 
top a light coating of sweet, drawn butter, set in a warm, not too hot 
place to rise, cover lightly to keep off" dust and air, watch and oc- 
casionally turn the pans around when necessary, to make the loaves 
rise evenly ; when risen to about double the original size, draw across 
the top of each lengthwise with a sharp knife, making a slit half an 
inch deep, place them in a moderately heated oven, and bake one 
hour, watching carefully from time to time to make certain that a 
])roper degree of heat is kept up. Before browning they will rise to 
double the size of loaf which was placed in the oven, and pans must 
be provided deep enough to retain them in shape. Bake until well 
done and nicely browned. Nothing adds more to the sweetness and 
digestibility of wheaten bread than thorough baking. When done, 
remove from pans immediately, to prevent the sweating and soft- 
ening of the crust. 

Bread Raised Twice. — Measure out four quarts sifted flour, 
take out a pint in a cup, and place remainder in a bread-pan. Make 
a well in the middle, into Avhich turn one tablespoon sugar, one of 
salt, and one cup yeast ; then mix in one pint milk which has 
been made blood-warm by adding one pint boiling Avater ; beat 
well with a strong spoon, add one tablespoon lard, knead for twenty 
to thirty minutes, and let rise overnight; in the morning kneaH 



BREAD-MAKING. 26 



again — slashing the dough with a sharp knife adds to its lightness 
and texture — make into loaves, let them rise one hour, and bake 
fifty minutes. Water may be used instead of the pint of milk, in 
which case use twice as much lard. 

Bread Raised Three Times. — Begin at about 5 p. m., plan for 
six loaves, somewhat larger than bakers' loaves ; take two little cakes 
of yeast, put them into a jDint of tepid water, and when soft beat 
in thoroughly enough flour to make a thick batter, and put in a 
warm place. If the excellent " Farmer's Yeast," the recipe for which 
is given heiieafter, is used, take half a tea-cup and stir into the batter. 
A good dish for this purpose is a large bowl, a broad, open pitcher, 
or a bright, three-quart tin pail, which should be clean in the strictest 
sense. This should rise in about two hours, and when nearly light, 
take six or eight medium-sized potatoes, pare neatly, rinse clean, 
and boil in three pints of water till well done, mash very fine in the 
water while hot. Have ready a bread-pan of sifted flour, into which 
put a teaspoon of salt, half a cup of white sugar and a bit of lard 
as large as an egg ; then riddle the potato mash, hot as it is, through 
a sieve or fine colander into the flour, and stir with a kitchen spoon 
into a stiff" dough. This scalds about half the flour used in the 
batch of bread. This mass must cool till it will not scald the yeast, 
which may now be mixed in and put in a warm, not hot, place for 
second rising, which will be accomplished by morning, when the 
kneading may be done. Kneading is the finest point of bread-mak- 
ing, and contains more of the art than any other ; it requires skill, 
time, patience and hard work. Work in flour no faster than is re- 
quired to allow thorough kneading, which can not be done in less 
than forty-five minutes, but should not be worked much over an 
hour ; one hour is a good uniform rule. The mechanical bakers 
use sets of rollers driven by steam power, between which the dough 
is passed, coming out a sheet an inch thick ; it is folded together 
several times and rolled again and again. This process should be 
imitated somewhat by the hands in the family kitchen. The work- 
ing of the dough gives grain and flakiness to the bread. The dough 
when kneaded should be soft, but not sticky — stiff enough to retain 
its roundness on the board. Put back into the pan for the third ris- 
ing, which will require but little time, and when light cut off enough 
for each loaf by itself. Knead but little, and put into the baking- 

Eans. If the first kneading has been well done, no more flour will 
e needed in molding into loaves. These must remain in the baking 
pans till nearl}^ as large as the loaves ought to be, when they may 
be put into a well heated oven. If the oven is a trifle too hot, or if 
it tends to bake hard on the top, a piece of brown paper may be put 
over the loaves (save some clean grocer's paper for this purpose), 
and from forty to sixty minutes will bake it thoroughly. After the 
loaves are put into the baking-pans, avoid jarring them, as it will 
make portions of them heavy. 



26 BREAD-MAKING. 



If the yeast is " set " at 5 p. m. the bread will be ready for dinner 
next day ; if in the morning, the baking will be done early in the 
evening, or twelve hours after, with fair temperature and good yeast. 
Bread made in this way will be good for a week, and with fair 
weather and careful keeping, even two weeks. When dry, a slice 
toasted Avill be as crisp, sweet and granular as Yankee ginger-bread. 

Bread Making Made Easy. — This quantity is for eight loaves 
but may be varied at pleasure. Three quarts warm water, in which 
melt a lump of butter the size of a hen's egg. Stir in flour sufficient 
to make a smooth, thick batter. Then add a bowlful of yeast which 
must be well stirred in. Now with the hands knead in more flour 
until the dough is firm, smooth and elastic, and will not adhere to 
the hands. Cover closely and set in a warm place overnight. You 
cannot be too careful in keeping the cold air from it, for if once 
chilled the bread will not be so light and sweet. Next morning the 
dough will be as light as a foam, and before it begins to subside take 
out on bread-board and chop with a chopping knife for five minutes 
or even less will do. It will scarcely be necessary to add any more 
flour. Mold into loaves and when light, bake. It Avill be seen that 
this requires but two risings, thereby retaining much of the sweetness 
of the flour which passes off in fermentation. Set the sponge at 8 
o'clock in the evening, and chop and mold into loaves before break- 
fast next morning, and \iy the time breakfast is over it is light 
enough for the oven. 

Bread in Suininer or Winter. — In summer take three pints of 
cold or tepid water, four tablespoons yeast, one teaspoon salt; 
stir in flour enough to make a thick sponge (rather thicker than 
griddle-cakes). Let stand until morning, then add more flour, mix 
stiff and knead ten minutes ; place in a pan, let rise until light, knead 
for another ten minutes ; mold into four loaves and set to rise, but 
do not let it get too light ; bake in a moderate oven one hour. If 
bread is mixed at six o'clock in the morning the baking ought to be 
done by ten o'clock. 

In winter take one pint of buttermilk or clabbered milk, let it 
scald (not boil) ; make a well in the center of the flour, into it turn 
the hot milk, add one teaspoon salt, enough flour and water to 
make sufficient sponge, and one tea-cup of yeast ; let stand until 
morning and then prepare the bread as in summer. This is more 
convenient to make in winter, since a hot fire is needed to heat the 
milk. 

Bread with Compressed Yeast. — When it is possible to obtain 
fresli compressed yeast, also called German yeast, an excellent bread 
can be made in about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the 
leavening or "raising" the dough is advantageous, because less of 
the nutritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the 
long process; for two loaves of bread use three pounds of flour. 



BREAD-MAKING. 27 



about a quart of water, two teaspoons salt, and an ounce of fresh 
compressed yeast ; dissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarm water ; 
stir in sufficient flour to make a thick batter or sponge, cover with a 
folded towel, and set it in a warm place to rise ; if properly covered 
and heated it will rise to a light foam in about half an hour ; then 
stir into it the salt, dissolved in a little warm water ; add the rest of 
the flour and sufficient lukewarm water to make a dough stiff enough 
to knead ; knead it five minutes ; divide it into two loaves, put them 
into buttered baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and set 
them in a warm place to rise twice 4heir height ; then bake them as 
directed in the preceding recipe for raised bread. In raising the 
sponge be sure that the heat is not sufficient to "'scald" or harden it, 
as that will prevent fermentation ; therefore do not place it Avhere 
the hand can not be held with comfort ; keep it covered from draughts. 
If, when it is light, it has become at all soured, as it sometimes Avill 
in summer, stir into it before adding the balance of the flour a salt- 
spoon baking-soda, dissolved in a very little kike-warm water. 

The dough made for home-made bread can be baked as raised 
biscuit ; and it can be made a little sweeter by kneading in with it 
a tablespoon each of sugar and melted butter ; or it can be boiled in 
soups and stews as raised dumplings. 

To test the heat of the oven follow this method : The "moderate 
oven" temperature is that degree of heat which will turn ordinary 
writing-paper dark yellow or buff, that is the color of kindling-wood ; 
put a sheet of paper in the oven and close the door ; if the paper 
blazes the oven is too hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat 
for ten minutes ; then again test it with more paper ; it may be 
necessary to try the temperature several times, but the time thus 
used is well spent. Another simple way of testing the heat of the 
oven is to hold the hand in it after it has been closed for some time ; 
if the hand can be held there without burning for quarter of a min- 
ute the heat is good. 

Quick Bread. — Peel ten potatoes, boil, drain, saving water, and 
mash thoroughly ; add three tablespoons each sugar and salt, three 
of flour scalded in half pint water ; mix and add a quart of the 
boiling potato-water, also five quarts tepid water and a cup of soft 
yeast. Put in a warm place till it foams nicely, then put away to 
cool. When thoroughly cold., seal or cork tightly and put in a cool 
place. To make the bread, sift flour in pan for number of loaves re- 
quired and wet it with some of the above prepared rising, loarmed, 
(very important) and nothing else ; when well mixed mold into loaves 
and put in a warm place to rise ; if directions are strictly followed, 
bread will be Hght in two hours. Bake an hour, and thus in three hours 
perfect bread can be made and baked. By adding to part of the 
dough when mixed for the loaves, half teacup lard or butter, one egg 
and three tablespoons sugar, let rise and then make into biscuit, let 
rise again and bake, taking for all an hour and a half more — this 



88 BREAD-MAKIN». 



gives biscuits or rolls in less than four hours, as soon as with com- 
pressed yeast, with the advantage of the rising being home-made. 
This comes strongly endorsed by an experienced bread baker. 

Salt-Rising Bread. — The leaven for this bread is prepared 
thus : Take a pint of warm water — about 90° — (if a little too hot 
defeat is certain) in a perfectly clean bowl and stir up a thick bat- 
ter, adding only a teaspoon of salt : a thorough beating of the batter 
is important. Set in a pan of warm water to secure uniformity of 
temperature, and in two to four feours it Avill begin to rise. The ris- 
ing is much more sure if coarse flour or " shorts " is used instead of 
fine flour. 

When the " rising " is nearly light enough, take a pint of milk 
and a pint of boiling water, (a tablespoon of lime water added is 
good and often prevents souring) mix the sponge in the bread-pan, 
and when cooled to about milk-warm, stir in the rising. The sponge 
thus made will be light in two to four hours, with good warmth. The 
dough requires less kneading than yeast-raised dough. The bread is 
simpler, but not so certain of rising, and you leave out all the ingre- 
dients save the flour, water (milk is not essential), and a pinch of 
salt. It should be made more frequently as it dries faster than bread 
containing potatoes. 

Another Salt-Rising Bread. — In summer take at night one 
(scant) pint of new milk, half as much hot water, which will make 
the whole lukewarm, a teaspoon salt, one of sugar and a verg little 
soda. Mix all in a nice, sweet pitcher (it must be perfectly clean 
and sweet), stir in one tablespoon of corn meal and add flour 
enough to make a medium batter ; or, use the " lightning yeast " 
given hereafter, or stir the rising as recommended above with " mid- 
dlings " or shorts, leaving out the soda and sugar ; stir well, place 
the pitcher in an iron kettle with quite warm water, using so much 
water that the pitcher will barely rest on the bottom of the kettle ; 
cover closely and leave all night (on the stove if the fire is nearly 
out) where it will be kept warm, not hot, for an hour or two. A 
quart pitcher should be full in the morning ; if not, add a spoon of 
flour, stir well, warm the water in the kettle, replace the pitcher, 
cover, and keep it warm until light. Have ready two quarts of sifted 
flour in a pan, make a hole in the center, put in an even teaspoon 
of salt, a tea-cup of nearly boiling water ; add one pint of new milk, 
and stir a batter there in the center of the flour, add the " empty- 
ings " from the pitcher and stir well (there Avill be a good deal of 
flour all round the batter, and the top should be well sprinkled with 
flour) ; cover with another pan, keep warm until light — it will rise in 
an hour or even less, the batter showing through cracks in the flour 
— when it should be loell and quickly Jcneaded, and made directly 
into loaves, which place in the baking-pans, keep well covered and 
warm until light, when it is ready to bake. If left standing too long 



n 



BRBAD-MAKlNft. 



29 



an unpleasant odor rises. The secret of success is to keep it warm 
but not at all hot. This bread is good if no milk is used ; indeed, 
some prefer it made with water alone instead of milk and water. In 
cold weather, if kitchen is cold at night, do not set " emptyings " 
over night, but make early in the morning. 

Sioeet Potato Bread.— ^o\\ three large sweet potatoes, peel and 
mash them through a colander with a potato-masher, adding tea- 
spoon salt and tablespoon butter ; after they have been mashed, mix 
with them one cup and a half corn meal, a scant cup milk, and one 
e<^g beaten smooth ; pour batter into a buttered baking-pan, and bake 
in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Use the bread hot with plenty 
of butter. 

Boston Brown Bread.— One heaping coffee-cup each of corn, 
rye and Graham meal. The rye meal should be as fine as the Gra- 
ham or rve flour may be used. Sitt the three kinds together as 
closely as possible, and beat together thoroughly with two cups New 
Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, two cups sweet milk, one cup sour 
milk, one dessert-spoon soda, one teaspoon salt ; pour into a tin 
form, place in a kettle of coZJwater, put on and boil four hours. 
Put on to cook as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too thm, but 
it is not, as this recipe has never been known to ^ij^g^^^^^^sv 
fail. Serve Avarm, with baked beans or Thanks- ^H|L. WM^ 
giving turkey. The bread should not quite fill the ^^^^^^ 
form (or a tin pail Avith cover will answer), as Wfe mBBj^ 
it must have room to swell. See that the water ^H BH|H| 
does not boil up to the top of the form ; also K BlllBL, 
take care it does not boil entirely aAvay or stop ^^_^k^^w' 
boiling. To serve it, remove the lid and set it a ,,„ ,„^ ,,, „,,,,. 
few moments into the open oven to dry the top, 
and it will then turn out in perfect shape. This bread can be used 
as a pudding, and served with a sauce made of thick sour cream, well 
SAveetened and seasoned with nutmeg ; or it is good toasted the next 
day. 

Boston Broion Bread.— Bo\\ and mash fine six potatoes and 
make into a sponge with one cup yeast, three cups flour and one 
quart warm water, adding two tablespoons each of lard and broAvn 
sugar. When light, sift into the bread tray tAVo quarts Indian meal, 
one quart rye or Avheat flour and one tablespoon each of soda and 
salt. Pour'the risen sponge into this and mix, adding Avann Avater 
if needed, and Avork in gradually a half cup molasses. Knead well 
and let rise six or seA'en hours, knead again, make into loaA^es, let 
rise one hour and bake in moderate OA^en. 

Eastern Brown Bread.— One pint each of rye or Graham and 
Indian meal, one cup molasses, three- fourths cup sour milk, one and 
one-half teaspoons soda, one and one-half pints cold Avater. Put on 
stove over cold Avater, steam four hours and broAvn over in the oven. 



30 BREAD-MAKING. 



Brow7i Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, and one-half 
cup molasses ; into these put one heaping teaspoon soda, two cups 
corn meal, one cup Graham flour and one teaspoon salt Use coffee 
cups. Steam three hours, and afterwards brown in oven 

Brown Bread loith Baking Powder. — One and a fourth cups 
sweet milk, one cup each corn meal and Graham, one-half cup mo- 
lasses, two heaping teaspoons baking powder, or use sour milk and 
soda. Measure in coffee-cups. Steam three or four hours. Can be 
made on Saturday and re-steamed for Sunday morning breakfast. 

Brown Bread with Mush. — Pour two quarts hot corn meal mush, 
made as for eating, over two quarts Graham flour (wheat may be 
used) ; when cool add one quart sponge, one coffee-cup molasses, 
teaspoon salt, half teaspoon soda; mix well together with a spoon 
or the hands, add more flour if needed to make it a 5^2;^' batter, and 
place in small bread pans (such as are described in the preceding 
preface on baking bread), filling them a little more than half full and 
smoothing over with a spoon dipped in water. Let rise till there is 
a seam or crack in the loaf, then bake in a moderate oven ; when 
done, rub over with butter, place on the side, wrap in a cloth, and 
when cold put in a jar or box. 

Boston Corn Bread. — One cup sweet milk, two cups sour milk, 
two-thirds cup molasses, one cup flour, four cups corn meal, two tea- 
spoons soda ; steam three hours, and brown a few minutes in the 
oven. 

Boiled Corn Bread. — One and one-fourth pints each of sweet 
milk and buttermilk or sour cream, half a pint molasses, one tea- 
spoon soda, three teaspoons cream tartar, one even tablespoon salt, 
one and a fourth pints each of corn meal and flour ; sift the soda 
and cream tartar in the flour ; mix all the ingredients thoroughly 
together and put in a buttered tin pail ; cover closely, place in a ket- 
tle two-thirds full of boiling water : cover, and boil steadily for three 
hours, replenishing when needful with boiling water. To be eaten 
hot with butter. 

Corn Bread. — One pint corn meal sifted, one pint flour, one 
pint sour milk, two eggs beaten light, one-half cup sugar, piece of 
butter size of an egg ; add; the last thing, one teaspoon soda in a 
little milk ; add to the beaten egg the milk and meal alternately, 
then the butter and sugar. If sweet milk is used, add one teaspoon 
cream tartar ; bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. 

Steamed Corn Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, 
(butter-milk if you have it), two cups corn meal, one cup flour, 
two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon soda, one tablespoon salt, two 
eggs, put in a cake pan with stem in center, place in a steamer, 
and steam three hours, or longer, keep closely covered, put in stove 



BREAD-MAKING. 31 



fifteen minutes to brown before sending to table ; set in a pan of 
cold water a few minutes and it will turn out nicely. 

Corn Bread. — Take one quart buttermilk and one heaping pint 
corn meal, one teaspoon soda, one of salt, one tablespoon sugar and 
three eggs ; have the stove very hot, and do not bake in too deep a 
pan. The batter seems too thin, but bakes very nicely. 

The Bread of Our Forefathers. — Put in a pan two quarts of 
meal, a half-pint of flour, stir up well ; pour in the center a pint of 
boiling water, stir up enough of the meal to make a thin batter ; 
when cool, put in a cup of yeast, a teaspoon of salt and enough 
warm water to make a thick batter ; let rise, then place in a deep, 
well-greased pan, cover with another pan, and place in a moderate 
oven. When nearly done, remove the cover, and bake slowly until 
done. Excellent when cold. 

All baking-pans for bread should be made with covers, made of 
the same material, and higli enough to permit the bread to rise 
to its full size. If pan is deep enough to permit the bread to rise 
Avithout touching it, a flat piece of tin or sheet-iron will answer for 
the cover, or a cover may be made of paper, or another jjan may be 
inverted over tlie bread. The office of the cover is to prevent the 
crust from browning hard before the expansion of the gases has 
made the bread light and porous. 

Plain Corn Bread. — One well-heaped pint corn meal, one pint 
sour or buttermilk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt ; bake in 
dripi^ing or gem pans. If preferred, one heaping tablespoon of 
sugar may be added. 

Steamed Corn Bread. — Two cups each of corn meal, Graham 
flour and sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda; 
steam two hours and a half. 

Graham Bread. — Take a little over a quart of warm water, one- 
half cup brown sugar or molasses, one-fourth cup hop yeast, and 
one and one-half teaspoons salt ; thicken the water with unbolted 
flour to a thin batter ; add sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more 
flour until quite stiff". In the morning add a small teaspoon soda, 
and flour enough to make the batter stiff* as can be stirred with a 
spoon ; put it into pans and let rise again ; then bake in even oven, 
not too hot at first ; keep warm while rising; smooth over the loaves 
with a spoon or knife dipped in water. 

Graham Bread. — To one and a half pints of tepid water add 
one heaping teaspoon of salt and one-half cup of sugar; stir in 
one-half pint or more of the sponge made of white flour, as in re- 
cipe for " Bread with Potato Yeast ;" add Graham flour until almost 
too stiff to stir) put in the baking-pan and let rise well, which will 



32 BREAD-MAKING. 



take about two hours, bake in a moderate oven, and when done, 
wrap in a wet towel until cool. Some prefer to add one egg and a 
tablespoon lard or butter. 

Graham Bread. — Mix smooth two quarts Graham flour and 
quart warm water ; add half a cake compressed yeast dissolved in 
warm water, put into a deep sheet iron bread pan and when light 
bake one hour. The dough should be as stiff as can be stirred with 
a spoon. 

Graham Bread with Baking Powder. — Three cups Graham 
flour, one teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder, half cup 
sugar and two and one-half cups sweet milk, or use half milk and 
halt water. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add 
milk, salt and sugar quickly. Bake in rather hot oven for forty or 
fifty minutes, protecting with thick brown paper the first fifteen 
minutes. 

Graham Bread with Soda. — Mix one cup warm water with two 
tablespoons syrup, one-half teaspoon soda and one cup Avhite flour. 
Stir in Graham flour with a spoon until 
stiff: Set in a warm place one-half hour to 
rise and bake one ancT one-fourth hours. 

Graham Bread, Steamed. — Two cuj^s 
Graham, two cups Indian meal, two cups 

sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one cup mo- 

lasses, one teaspoon soda, a little salt. Steam ?«„ lor steamiui- nitart. 

two hours and dry a fcAV minutes in hot oven. 

Quick Graham, Bread. — One and a half pints sour milk, half 
cup New Orleans molasses, a little salt, two teaspoons soda dissolved 
in a little hot water, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in 
with a spoon ; pour in well-greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed 
and bake two hours. 

Rye Bread with Soda. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, two- 
thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon salt, 
two cups sifted wheat flour and three and one-half cups rye meal — 
or if preferred all rye may be used. Bake in a loaf or gem pans. 

Bye and Indian Bread. — One quart of rye meal or rye flour, 
two quarts of Indian meal, scalded (by placing in a pan and pouring 
just enough boiling water over it, stirring constantly with a spoon, 
to merely Avet it, but not enough to make it into a batter), one-half 
teacup molasses, two teaspoons salt, one of soda, one teacup j^east ; 
make as stiff" as can be stii*red with a spoon, mixing with warm water, 
and let rise all night ; then put in a large pan, smooth the top with 
the hand dipped in cold water, let it stand a short time and bake five 
or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let it remain all 
night. Graham may be used instead of rye and baked as above. In 
the olden time it was placed in kettle, allowed to rise, then placed 
on the liearth before the fire, with coals on top of lid, and baked. 




BKE AD-MAKING. 33 



Rye Bread. — Make a gponge of one qi;art warm water, one tea- 
cup yeast, tliickened with r^'o flour; put in warm place to rise over 
night; scald one pint corn meal ; when cool add it to sponge, and 
add rye flour till thick enough to knead, knead but litth, let rise, 
mold into loaves, place in deep pie-tins or small pudding-pans, let 
rise and l)ak(' ; or, thicken the sponge with rye flour, and proceed as 
above. M'heat sponge may be used instead of rye. 

Rye Bread. — Make sj'tonge as for wheat bread, let rise over- 
night, then mix it up with the rye flour as stiiF as can he kneaded^ 
add to the quantity for three loaves of l)r(>ad, two cui)S molasses and 
a very little grated orange peel. Let rise, mold into loaves and when 
risen, bake. 

Yienna Bread. — In some bakeries a peculiar gloss is given to 
the surface of Vienna bread by the introduction of a jet of steam 
into the oven while the bread is baking ; but if when the bread made 
at home is half baked it is brushed over with a soft s])onge wet in 
milk the loaf Avill present a glossy crust. Xo ])articular kind of oven 
is required, but it is necessary that the bread should be baked at 
a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit. In the bakeries the 
dough is mixed in zinc-lined wooden troughs, but an ordinary earthfii 
bread bowl may 1)0 used. The temperature of the room in which the 
bread is made should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the milk 
and water used for making the bread should be of the same degree 
of heat; only the best bread flour should be used. The length of 
time required to complete tlie process is about three hours and a half. 
The proportions of an ordinary family baking are four pounds of 
flour, three pints of milk and water, half an ounce of salt, and owo. 
and three-quarter ounces of very fresh compressed yeast. The pro- 
cess of making is as follows : Place the flour in the bread liowl, and 
in it put the milk, water, and salt; mix with the liquid enough of 
the flour to make a very thin batter ; next rub the yeast to powder 
between the hands, and mix it into the batter ; cover the bowl close- 
ly, and let it stand for three-quarters of an hour. At the end of that 
time mix in the rest of the flour smoothly, and let the dough thus 
made stand again closely covered for two hours and a half, until it 
is light and elastic; then cut it into pound ])ieces, and each pound 
into twelve equal parts ; flatten these small pieces of dough in squares 
three-quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to tlie center, ])inch 
them down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made over on 
board covered with cloth ; let them stand for about ten minutes, 
turn them up again on a baking-sheet, and put them into a hot oven 
to bake quickly, for al)out fifteen minutes ; when half done brush 
them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking them. 
This process seems to imply a little troulile to the bread-maker, but 
the delicious quality of the bread thus produced well repays the ex- 
tra pains taken in nuiking it; and a little practice will enalde any 
person to accomplish the result successfully always. 



34 r.UHAKFAST AND TEA CAKK.S. 



BREAKFAST Al^l> TEA CAKES. 



To make Inscuit, take a part of the dough left from bread-making 
when it is ready to mold into loaves, work in the lard and any other 
ingredients desired, such as butter, eggs, sugar, spice, etc., also using 
a little more flour; let rise once, then mix down and let rise again, 
turn out on tlie bread-board, knead a few minutes, roll, and cut out 
with a l)iscuit-cutter or mold with the hand. Place in a well-greased 
dripping-pan, and wlien light bake in a quick oven from fifteen to 
twenty minutes. To make them a nice color, wet the top with warm 
Avatcr just before placing in the oven. To glaze, brush lightly as 
soon as removed from the oven with milk and sugar, or the well 
beaten yolk of an egg sweetened, and a little milk a<lded, or simply 
the ))eaten white 

Biscuit may be Itaked in eight minutes by making the oven as 
hot as can be without burning, and allowing it to cool off gradually as 
they bake ; this makes them very light, but one lias to watch closely 
to keep them from being scorched. Any kind of l)read or pastry 
mixed with water requires a hotter fire than that mixed with milk. 

Biscuit and rolls should l)e allowed to rise one-half longer than 
bread loaves, because the loaves of the former, being smaller, are 
])enetrated sooner by the heat, and, of course, the fermentation is 
yto[)ped sooner, and the rolls do not rise so much in the oven. 

Biscuit for tea at six must be molded two hours before, whicli 
will give ample time for rising and baking. Parker House rolls for 



BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. 35 

breakfast at eight must be made ready at five. Many think it unnec- 
essary to knead down either bread or l)iscuit as often as here di- 
rected ; but if attention is given to the dough at the right time, and 
it is not suffered to become too llgJit it ^vill be much nicer, whiter, 
and of a finer texture if these directions are followed. 

The alm<?st universal custom is to set the sponge at night, but 
many excellent bread-makers differ widely from this in practice and 
their objections deserve candid consideration in this nineteenth cen- 
tury, when so much is written of dyspepsia and its causes. Some 
medical authorities assert that cancer in the stomach has its origin 
in dyspepsia, which, in the beginning, is caused by the use of indi- 
gestible yeast bread, in which the process of fermentation has been 
allowed to go so far that a certain amount of actual decomposition 
has taken place. This is not the fault of such recipes as are given 
in this book, but from failure to mix the bread at each successive 
rising at the "proper time. The objection to setting sponge at night 
is that it stands too long. Bread, to be white, sweet and digestible, 
must be. mixed immediately after the sj)onge has risen to the proper 
point, wldrli may he known hy its puify appearance^ usually rising 
higher in the middle than at the sides of the crocl': if it sinl's in 
the center, it has stood too long. 

Soda and baking powder biscuit must be handled as little and 
made as rapidly as possible ; mix soda and cream tartar or baking- 
powder in the flour (with sweet milk use l^aking-powder, or soda and 
cream tartar, with sour milk soda alone), so that the elTervesence 
takes place in the mixture. One teaspoon soda and two of cream 
tartar, or twf) teaspoons baking-powder, to one quart flour, is about 
the right ])roy)Ortion. Bake in a quick oven as soon as made, and 
they rise more quickly if put into hot pans. (Jems of all kinds re- 
quire a hot oven, but the fire should be built some time before they 
are put into iho. oven, and allowed to go down by the time they are 
light, as the bent necessary to raise fhcni will burn them in leaking 
if kept up. ^ 

All biscuit and bread, except l^rown and Graham bread, should 
be pricked with a, fork before putting in the oven. 

Soda and raised biscuit and bread or cake, when stale, can 1)e 
made almost as nice as fresh by plunging for an instant into cold 
water, and tb<Mi placing in a pan in the oven ten or fifteen minutes ; 
thus trcatc(l thov should ]>e used inimediatelv. 



36 



BREAKFAST AM) TEA CAKES. 




Wttflle-IrOD. 

Muffins are 



Waffle-irons should be heated, then buttered or j^reased with 
hird, and one side fdled with batter, elosed and 
hiid on the tire or phaecd on the stove, and after a 
few minutes turned on the otlier side. They take 
about twiee as h)ng to bake as griddle-eakes, and 
are delicious with a dressing of ground cinnamon 
baked in muOin-rings. In eating them, do not cut but break them 
open. 

Tlic success of these recipes, and all others in this book in which 
Soda and cream tartar are used, Avill depend on the purity of these 
ingredients. Always buy the pure English bicarbonate of soda, and 
iha pxi,re cream tartar. They are higher-priced, but cheaper in the 
end, and are free from injurious substances. When not found at 
the grocer's, they may generally be had at the druggist's. 



Baking Poioder. — Sixteen ounces corn starch, eight qf bicar- 
bonate of soda, five of tartaric acid, mix thoroughly; or eight 
ounces flour, eight of English bicarbonate of soda, seven of tartaric 
acid ; mix tlioroughly by passing several times through a sieve. 

Ba)moelf<. — Cream one poUnd butter with one and one-lburtli 
]:)Ounds l)rown sugar, add six eggs whipped to a cream, one tea-spoon 
ginger, one and one-fourth ]ioimds white Indian meal ^aS^^^^^^L 
and same of flour. Bake in small cakes in cups or ^f^^^^SSS 
gem ])ans nnd leave in them until cold. ''""' *'"'"■ 

JJannor/xS'. — Wet one pint Indian meal with boiling water or 
milk. Let stand a few minutes and add one egg, a little sweet cream 
or a tablcs[ioon melted butter, nnd salt. Make into Indls and fry in 
hot lard. 

JBiSCulf. — Dissolve one rounded tablespoon of ]»utter in a ))int 
of hot milk ; when lukewarm stir in one quart of flour, add one 
beaten o^<^, a little salt, and a cup of yeast ; work into dougii un- 
til smooth. If winter, set in a warm place ; if summer, in a cool 
one to rise. In the morning work softly and foil out one-half inch 
thick, cut into biscuit and set to rise for thirty minutes, Avhen they 
Avill ])e ready to bnke. These are delicious. 

Biscuit. — Take one quart sifted flour (loosely }>ut in), three 
heaping teaspoons of Horsford's Bread Preparation, or baking pow- 
der, one teas])oon salt, three gills of water; sliape with a spoon and 
the floure(l hand. 



BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. 37 



BiUtprmilk Biscuit. — One quart flour, one teuspoon Hocla, 
butter or lard size of an egg, a little salt and buttermilk to make a 
soft dough. Roll out quickly and bake in hot oven. 

The following way of baking makes a pleasing novelty: Roll 
the dough thinner than ordinarily, spread well with butter previously 
softened, dust over thickly with white sugar and roll it up ; cut slices 
off from the end the tliickness of ordinary biscuit, put in buttered 
pans and Indcc. 

Cream Biscuit. — Put three heaping tablespoons of sour cream 
into a bowl or pan holding a quart, and fill two-thirds lull of s\\-eet 
milk; add two teas])oons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda and a 
little salt, with Hour enough to mix soft, and bake in quick oven. 

Fairy Biscuit. — Beat well together two ounces butter and a half 
pound of flour, adding the white of one egg, one teaspoon milk, four 
ounces? sugar, two ounces sweet, well pounded almonds, and work 
well into paste. Pinch off pieces the size of a half dolhif and bake 
on buttered paper. 

Hard Tea Biscuit. — Two i>ounds of flour, one-fourth pound 
butter, one salt-spoon salt, three gills milk ; cut up the butter and 
rub it in the flour, add the salt and milk, knead dough for half an 
hour, cut cakes about as large as a small tea-cup and half an incli 
thick, prick witli a lV>rk, and liake in a moderate oven until they are 
a delicate brown. 

//////' Bi-wuit. — On baking days reserve one small loaf and mix 
a rounded tablespoon butter, a level tablespoon sugar and one egg 
into it by pulling it to pieces witli the hands ; knead into a loaf, let 
it rise, then l>y rolling between the hands make into balls the size of 
a small hen's egg, place in rows in very well greased dripping-pan ; 
when half full raise the end that is empty almost perjiendicular, and 
shake gently until the balls slide compactly together, then add more 
and continue doing so until the pan is full; rub over the top with 
melted butter, let rise until very light, and bake. 

Maple Biscuit. — To tlie well-beaten yolks of twelve eggs, add 
halfi)Oui)d of powdered or granulat(xl sugar and half a cup of sweet 
inilk ; mix one teaspoon baking powder in a (scant) half pound of 
sifted flour, then sift the flour gently into the batter and add flavor- 
ing, bake in biscuit pans, spreading the batter one and a half to two 
inches thick in the pan. If rightly made it will be very light. Do 
not bake too fast and have the oven about as for sponge cake. "When 
cold, cut into slices three inches long and one inch Avide. Ice the 
sides, ends and top with white, pink and chocolate icing. Dry in 
OA-en, and then, if desired, the bottom may he iced. Build in square 
blocks and place on table. Serve a plate of the white, one of the 
pink, and one of the brown, or they may ])e nnxed in >>uilding. 



38 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



Potato Biscuit. — One cup each butter, sugar, milk, hot mashed 
potatoes (free from hmips), one cup yeast and two 
eggs. Mix with enough flour to make a good batter, 
let rise, and add as much flour as can be stirred in 
Avith a spoon. Let rise again, roll out to half an inch thick, cut 
in small round cakes, put two together and when light bake. 

Iii/e Jjiscult. — Two cups rye meal, one and a half cups flour, 
one egg, two cups sour milk, one-third cup molasses, salt and two 
teaspoons soda. Mix lightly, roll out and bake. 

South Carolina Biscuit. — One quart sweet cream or milk, one 
and a half cups butter or fresh lard, two tablespoons white sugar, 
one good teaspoon salt; add flour sufficient to make a stiff dough, 
knead uiell and mold into neat, small biscuits Avith the hands, as our 
grandmothers used to do ; add one good teaspoon cream tartar if 
preferred ; bake well, and you have good sweetbiscuits that will keep 
for Aveeks in a dry place, and are very nice for traveling lunch. They 
are such as used to be sent to the army, and the "boys" relished 
them "hugely." 

Soda Biscuit. — Put one quart of flour, before sifting, into sieve 
with one teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar (or three of baking 
powder), one of salt, and one tablespoon white sugar; mix all 

thoroughly with the flour, run through 
sieve, rub in one level tablespoon of 
lard or butter (or half and half), wet 
with half pint t^weet milk, roll on 
board about an inch thick, cut Avith 
biscuit cutter, and bake in a quick 
oven fifteen minutes. If you have 
not milk, use a little more butter, and wet with Avater. Handle as 
little and make as rapidly as possible. 

Spoon Biscuit. — One quart sour milk or buttermilk, one tea- 
spoon soda, a little salt, tAvo tablespoons melted lard, and flour 
enough for a stiff" batter ; drop in a hot gem-pan and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Tea Biscuits. — Cook until mealy and tender three good sized 
potatoes, mash through colander, and add them to one quart flour 
in Avhich two tablespoons of baking powder have been sifted, butter 
size of egg rubbed Avell through the flour, one Avell-beaten egg, one 
cup cream and milk enough to make a good firm dough. Roll out 
to one-half incli in thickness, cut into small cakes and bake in hot 
OA'cn fifteen minutes. 

Unleavejied Biscuit. — Five cups Graham flour, one cup Avarm 
(not hot) Avater, Avhite of one egg Avcll-beaten. Bake in gem pans. 




Biscuit and Fancv Take Cutters. 



BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. 39 



Coifee Bread. — One egg, one-half enp sugar, one cup milk, one- 
half cup yeast and flour to s])ongc. \Mien light add one-half cu}) 
nutter, worked in with the hands (not kneaded) and flour enough 
to make it soft so that it may l)e ])atted down into a greased pan to 
hake. _ Let rise again, ])ut little specks of hutter over the top, press 
them in and sprinkle Avith sugar and cinnamon. Bake ahout twenty 
minutes, and cut in strips an inch wide for l>reakfast or lunch. 

EciHter Bread. — One yeast cake, two cu];)S each flour and water; 
mix and set to rise overnight ; in the morning take six cups flour, 
two cups milk, one and one-half cu])s currants, one and one-half 
cups raisins, one-half cup sugar, l>utter the size of a large hen's 
egg ruhhed in <.oId, one teaspoon salt ; mix and let rise until light, 
then mold and put in pans until light, then wet top with melted 
butter, and l>ake one hour. 

Buns. — Break one egg into a cup and fill with sweet milk ; mix 
Avith it half cup yeast, half cup butter, one cup sugar, enough flour 
to make a soft dough ; flavor with nutmeg. Let rise till verv light, 
then mold into biscuit with a few currants. Let rise a second time 
in ])an ; bake and, Avhen nearly done, glaze with a little molasses 
in milk. Use the same cu]), no matter about the size, for each 
measure. 

(\irrant Bioi.^. — Four i>ounds light bread dough, eight ounces 
each of currants, sugar and softened butter. Roll \ho douirh out, 
strew the currants over it and knead them in. Roll out again, then 
spr(>ad on the butter and sugar, cut in bands as wide as the hand 
and rf)ll them up. Brush tliem over with melted butter so that they 
will not stick together in the ])ans and cut oft' pieces an inch thick. 
Put in a buttered pan just touching each other, let them rise nearly 
an hour and ])ake. Brush over with sugar and water and dredge 
with sugar and cinnamon. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Set a sjjonge overnight with three cups 
sweet milk, one cup yeast and flour' enough to make a stiff" batter. 
In the morning add one-half cup melted butter, one cup sugar, half 
a nutmeg, salt-si)oon salt and flour enough to roll out. Knead well 
and set to rise five hours. Roll half an inch thick, cut into round 
cakes, and when they have risen half an hour make a cross on each 
one with a knife and Ijake. 

Apple Cake. — ^Nfake like cinnaniou cake, ])]acing raw a])i>les cut 
in eighths over tlie to]), with the butter, cinnamon and sucar. Let 
rise and bake. 

Breakfast Cake. — Two tablespoons sugar, two of butter, two 
eggs, one cup milk, one (scant) quart flour, one teaspoon soda, two 
of cream tartar; bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. 



40 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



Cinnamon Cake. — When yeast bread is ready to knead from tl)e 
sponge, knead and roll out tln-ee-fourths of an inch thick, put thin 
slices of butter on the top, sprinkle with cinnamon, and then with 
sugar ; let rise well and bake. 

Tea Cake. — One quart flour, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, one-half pound lard, one-half pound chop\)ed raisins or cur- 
rants; roll two inches thick and bake in a (piick oven; split open. 
butter and eat while hot. 

Egg Crackers. — Six eggs, twelve tablespoons sweet milk, six 
tablespoons butter, half teaspoon soda; mold with flour half an 
hour, and roll thin. 

French Crackers. — One and a half pounds each flour and sugai'. 
three-fourths pound ])utter, whites of Ave eggs ; before cooking wash 
over mth egg and dip in sugar. 

Cracknels. — To one |)int of rich milk put two ounces Imtter and 
spoon of yeast. Make it warm, and mix enough flne flour to make 
a light dough ; roll thin and cut in long pieces, two inches broad. 
Prick well, and bake in slow oven. 

Cream Cracknels. — One pound flour, ten ounces butter, two 
tablespoons sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, nine tablespoons sour 
cream ; add salt and sugar to the flour, rulj in the Ijutter, and knead 
into a soft dough Avith the cream; flour the board, turn out the 
dough, and l)rcak off" small pieces, which roll with the hand about 
nine inches long, and shape into cracknels ; rub over with beaten 
eggs, and sprinkle plentifully "with sugar and cinnamon mixed ; bake 
on tins in a moderate oven. 

English Crunijjets — One quart warm milk, one teas])Oon salt. 
half cup yeast, flour enough for a not very stift' l)atter. When light 
add half a cup melted l)utter, let stand twenty minutes, and bake in 
muffin rings or cups. 

Cream CriS2)s. — Put two and a half cups good rich cream, either 
sweet or sour, in a crock and add gradually four cups unsifted best 
Graham flour, and half a cup sugar, then takeout on 
board and knead well wit]i one more cnp Graham. 
The dough wants to be Acry stiff and kneaded thor- 
oughly. Roll out as thin as for thin cookies, ciit with crcam cnsi^, 
biscuit cutter, prick well and ])lacein pans slightly buttered for first 
panfull, not greasing afterwards, in a rather hot oven, and l)ake imme- 
diately, putting them in l)ottom of oven first, and then in the upper 
oven to brown. If wanted "extra nice," sift the flour (using about 
one-eighth more flour.) The quantity of sugar can be increased or 
diminished, but for health's sake this is sufficient, or even less. Prop- 
erly made, they will be crisp and delicious. 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 41 

Hominy Crumpets. — One cup boiled homin}-, two cups milk, 
one tablespoon sugar, tAVO tablespoons melted butter, four table- 
spoons yeast, four cups flour, or enough to make a good batter, and 
a little salt Avell beaten together. Let rise six hours or until very 
light. Then add one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolyed in a little hot 
water, put into muffin tins, let stand fifteen minutes and then bake 
quickly. To l)e eaten hot. For rice crumpets substitute one cup 
rice for the hominy. 

Royal Crvmpeis. — Knead four tablespoons melted butter, three 
eggs and one cup sugar into three cui)S raised dough. Bake tAventy 
minutes in buttered tins and serve with sugar. 

Corn Dodgers. — To one quart corn meal add a little salt and a 
small tablespoon lard ; scald with boiling water and beat hard for a 
few minutes ; drop a large spoonful in a well-greased pan. The bat- 
ter should be thick enough to just flatten on the bottom, leaving 
them quite high in the center, liake in a hot oven. 

Gems. — One tables})oon each sugar and butter, one egg, one 
cup milk, two teasx>oons baking-powder, flour to stiffen; beat sugar 
and butter to a cream and add the rest. This recipe makes one 
dozen gems. 

Corn Gems. — Two cu])S each corn meal, flour 
and sweet milk, two eggs, three heaping teaspoons 
baking-])owder. one-half cup each butter and sugar, 
and a little salt. Put into hot gem pans. 

Good Graham 6'em.'?.— Three cuj^s sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, one of salt, one tablespoon broAvn sugar, one of melted lard, 
one beaten egg ; to the egg add the milk, then the sugar and salt, 
then the Graham flour (with the soda mixed in), together with the 
lard ; make a stifi' batter, so that it will drop, not pour, from the 
spoon. Have gem-pans very hot, grease, fill and bake fifteen min- 
utes in a hot oven 

Sweet Mill' Gems. — I>eat one egg well, add a pint new milk, a 
little salt and Graham flour until it will drop oft" the spoon nicely ; 
heat a'nd butter the gem-])ans before dropping in the dough ; Ijake in 
a hot oven twenty minutes. 

Oat Meal Getns. — One cup cooked oat meal, or soaked over- 
night, in one cup water. Add one cup sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, one cup flour, a little salt, and l)ake in gem-pans. Try one first 
and if too moist or sticky add more flour, 

W/ieaten Gems. — Mix one teaspoon baking-powder and a little 
salt into one pint flour ; add to the beaten yolks of tAvo eggs one tea- 
cu]> sweet milk or cream, a jnece of butter (melted) half the size of 
an egg. the flour with baking-pOAvder and salt mi>;ed. and the Avell 



42 BHEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



l)eaten whites of the twt> eggs. Beat well, l)ake inmiediately in geiii- 
]ians in a liot oven, and take out and send to the table immediately. 

Alahama Johnnij-Vake. — Cook a i)int of riee till tender, add a 
ta1)lespoon butter; when cold add two beaten eggs and one pint 
meal, and when mixed sj^reaci on an oaken board and l>ake by ti])- 
ping the board upl^efore tlie fire-place. When done on one side turn 
over. The d(nigh should be s])read half an inch thick. 

Johnity-Cake. — Two eggs, one cu]) sugar, one and one-half of 
corn meal, two-thirds cup melted l)uttcr, or lard, two cups each suur 
milk and flour, two teaspoons each saleratus and salt. 

Johnny-Cake. — Two-thirds teaspoon soda, three talilespoons 
sugar, one teaspoon cream tartar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, si.K 
tablespoons Indian meal, three tablespoons Hour, and a little salt. 
This makes a tliin batter. 

Corn Mtifiins. — One quart sifted Indian meal, a heaping tea- 
spoon butter, one (piart milk, a salt-spoon salt, a third cup yeast, a 
tablespoon of molasses : let it rise four or live hours, and bake in 
muffin-rings. 

Corn. Muffins. — Two cups corn meal, ouc-half cup flour, one- 
fourth cup sugar, two eggs, butter size of a walnut, one teaspoon 
salt, two tea-spoons leaking powder and enough sweet milk to make 
quite thin. Bake in gem pans. 

Cream Muffiitx. — Beat the yolks of three eggs with one teas]^oon 
salt and stir in a half-pint sweet cream adding a half-])int of flour 
and lastly Ww. whites of the eggs l)eaten to a stiff froth. Baki; in 
buttered gem pans in quick oven from ten to fifteen minut-es. 

GraJtam Muffins. — One egg, heaping tablespoon butter, one 
and a half cups milk, little salt, one teaspoon baking powder, 
(iraham flour to stiffen. Put in slightly heated gem tins and bake. 

Grafiayn Muffins. — Two cups sour milk, tAvo tablespO(ms brown 
sugar, a little salt, one tcasi)oon soda, suflicit'nt Graham flour to 
make moderately stiff'. If not convenient to use sour milk, use 
swe(^t. adding cream of tartar. 

Indian Muffins. — Two cups Indian meal scalded with as little 
water as possi])le, one cup flour, one cu)) 
sweet milk, one tablespoon 1)utter, half 
cu]) sugar, one small cu]) yeast. Let rise n.^.: 
overnight and l)akc in rings for breakfeast. 

Rice Mufffjis. — One cup cold boiled rice, two eggs, one <|uart 
milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon salt, one i)int flour and a 
teaspoon Iniking powder. 




BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 43 

Rice Flour 3IuM?is.— One and one-half cups rice flour, two 
cups wheat flour, three teas])oons baking powder, one nint sweet 
milk, one egg, a little salt and small piece of butter. 

Jii/e JfuMns. — One and one-half cups rye flour, same of wheat 
flour, one egg, one scant teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon 
soda, made into a batter with sweet milk. 

Sour Milk MuMns.—^iir one egg into one pint sour milk with- 
out boiling. Melt a teaspoon of butter and a teaspoon salcratus in 
ji tablespoon of hot water. Salt and make a thick batter with wheat 
flour, beat well, drop in moderately hot muffin tins, fllling them half 
full. 

Wheat MuMns. — ^li^ one pint milk, two eggs, three talde- 
spoons yeast, and salt-spoon of salt, with flour enough to make a 
stiff" batter ; let rise four or five hours or mix at night for breakfast 
and bake in muffin-rings in a hot oven, for about ten minutes. This 
recipe may be made with Graham flour, ])y adding two tablespoons 
of molasses, and is excellent. 

Pocket- Books. — Warm one quart new milk, add one cup butter 
or lard, four tablespoons sugar, and two well-beaten eggs ; stir in 
flour enough to make a moderately stiff" sponge, add a small cup of 
yeast, and set in a warm place to rise, which will take three or four 
hours ; then mix in flour enough to make a soft dough and let rise 
again. When well risen, dissolve a lump of soda size of a bean in a 
spoon of milk, work it into the dough and roll into sheets one-half 
inch in thickness ; spread Avith thin layer of butter, cut into squares 
and fold over, pocket-book shape ; put on tins or in pans to rise for 
a, little while, wlicn they will be fit for the oven. In summer the 
sponge can be made up in the morning, and rise in time to make for 
tea. In cool weather it is best to set it overnight. 

Corn Pones. — Scald one pint corn meal with a quart of milk, 
stir in six eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon flour, two table- 
spoons baking powder, and a little salt. Bake in buttered cups, \n 
which send to table that they may be turned out and eaten hot with 
butter and syrup. 

Corn Pop-overs. — Stir into one ])int scalded sweet milk one large 
cup corn meal, a piece of butter half the size of an egg, and a little 
salt. Add three well beaten eggs the last thing ; no soda. 

Pop-overs. — Four well beaten eggs, four cups each of sweet milk 
and flour, butter size of a walnut, pinch of salt ; beat thoroughly to- 
gether and bake in hot gem pans. A tablespoon sugar may be add- 
ed if liked, but very ni«*e without. 

Breakfast P-w^fs.— If the vrheat bread is light enough for the 



44 ■ BRKAKKASr AND TKA CAKKS. 




oven at breakfast time, have ready some hot hird in a deep kettle ; 
with the thumb and two fint-ers pull up some of the dough quite 
thin, and cut it in two or three inches in length ; as these pieces 
are cut, drop them in the lard and fry like doughnuts. At table 
they are eaten like biscuit; they may also l)e served in a vegetable 
(lisli with .1 dressing of hot cream, seasoned with pepper and salt. 

Xim's Pu^'s (for lea).— Rinse a saucepan in Avatcr 
i-isk of burning and heat one jiint of new milk with a 

([Uurter pound of butter to boiling, stir in smoothly a_ 

half pound of Hour and when cool beat in the yolks of ^"ff i-au«. 
nine eggs, adding tlie whites beaten to a stiff froth last. Bake in 
gem i)ans or cups, half filled, twenty minutes in hot oven. 

Brealfast Bolls. — Mix the dough in the evening, according to 
directions in the recipe for "Bread Raised Once ;"' add a table-spoon 
of butter, and set where it will be a little warm until morning ; cut 
off pieces, and carefully shape them into rolls of the desired size l)y 
rolling them Ix'tween the hands, but do not knead them ; dip the 
sides of each into drawn butter Avhen they are shaped, and place 
them in the baking pan (the butter prevents their sticking together 
when baked, and they will be smooth and pei'fcct Avhen separated). 
Rub them over the top with drawn butter, ami dust a little fine salt 
over the top; set in a warm place, and they will quickly rise ready 
for baking. These are delicious. 

Cinnamon Tiolls. — Take a jnece of raised biscuit dough, add a 
little sugar, roll out to one-fourth an inch thick, spread with butter, 
sugar and cinnamon, roll np as you would jelly cake and cut off" 
pieces al)Out half an inch thick, i)ut on buttered tins to rise and 
when light put a little butter, sugar and cinnamon on the \o\) of each 
and bake. 

Coffee Jiolls. — Work into a quart of bread dough a rounded 
tablespoon of butter, and a half tea-cup of white sugar; add some 
dried currants (well washed and dried in the oven), sift some flour 
and sugar over them, work into the other ingredients, make into 
small rolls, dip into melted butter, place in tins, let rise a short time 
and bake. 

Corn RolU. — One pint of corn meal, tv,'o tablespoons sugar 
one teasjjoon salt, one j)int boiling milk ; stir all together and let 
stand till cool. Add three eggs Avell beaten, and bake in gem-pans, 

Dinner Bolls. — Make dough as directed in recipe for '"Finger 
Rolls,"' make into l)alls as large as a medium-sized hen's egg, 
place on a well-floured board, flour a small rolling-pin (three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter), press down so as nearly to divide 



bi;i;akka<t and tf.a cakes. 



45 




each ball of dough in the center, place in baking-pans so they will 
not touch each otlicr, grease the space made by the rolling pin Avitli 
melted butter, let them rise until light, and bake. These rolls are so 
small and bake so quickly, that they have the delicious sweet taste 
of the Avlieat. Home grease the hands with butter while making the 
rolls. Bread do\igh, by adding the other ingredients, may be used 
for these rolls. 

Egg Rolls. — To three well bealen eggs add one cup each of 
sugar, yeast and lard or butter, and a pint of sweet milk. Sponge at 
night, mix in the morning, adding a little soda ; roll them as pie 
crust, spread with lard, roll up and liake. 

Everg-Day Rollx.- — Take a piece of bread dough on baking 
day, when molded out the last time, aliout 
enough for a small loaf, spread out a little, 
add one egg, two tablespoons sugar and ■ 
three-fourths cup lard; add a little flour 
and a small teaspoon soda if the least l)it sour; mix well, let rise, 
mold into rolls or biscuits, set to rise again, and they will be ready 
for the oven in twenty or thirty minutes. 

Finger Rolls. — Three and one-half cups sweet milk, one cup 
butter and lard mixed in equal proportions, one cup potato yeast, 
flour enough to make into dough. Let rise overnight; in the morn- 
ing add one beaten egg ; knead thoroughly and let rise again. With 
the hands make into balls as large as a small 
hen's egg, then roll between the hands, or on 
a floured board, into long rolls, about four in- 
ches long and three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter, or size of the second finger; place 
in even rows in the pans, not too close together, *''°^" """'• 

or in roll pan. Let rise until light, bake delicately, and glaze by 
brushing lightly with the white of an egg. Or, to bread dough add 
half cup sugar and a cup butter, let rise and roll as above. 

French Rolls. — Peel six medium-sized mealy potatoes, boil in 
two quarts of water, press and drain both potatoesand water through 
a colander; when cool enough so as not to scald, add flour to make 
a thick batter, beat well, and when lukewarm add one-half cup pota- 
to yeast. jNIake this sponge early in the 
morning, and when light turn into a bread 
pan, add a teaspoon salt, half cup lard, and 
flour enough for a soft dougli ; mix up and 
set in a warm, even temperature ; when risen, FreDcHRoupan, 

knead down and place again to rise, repeating this process five or six 
times ; cut in small pieces and mold on the In-ead-board in rolls about 
one inch thick by five long ; roll in melted butter or sweet lard and 
place in well-greased baking pans (nine inches long by five wide 





46 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

and tAvo and a lialf in depth, makes a convenient sized pan, which 
holds fifteen of these rolls ; or, if twice the width, put in two rows); 
press the rolls closely together so that they will only bo about half 
an inch in width. Let rise a short time and bake twenty minutes in 
a liot oven ; if the top browns too rapidly, cover with paper. These 
rolls, if properly made, arc very white, light and tender. 

Or, make rolls larger, and just before putting them in the oven, 
cut deeply across each one with a sharp knife. This will make the 
cleft roll, so famous among French cooks. 

French Iiolls. — For about sixty split rolls, three large cups 
water or milk ; one large cup yeast ; heaping tablesj^oon salt ; two 
ounces each sugar and lard or butter ; four pounds flour. Set sponge 
at eight in the morning with half the flour, adding sugar and butter, 
then beat it again about one, add the salt and make up stiff' dough 
with the rest of the flour. Knead the dough on the table, alternately 
drawing it up in round shape and pressing the pulled-over edges 
into the middle and then pressing it out to a flat sheet, folding over 
and jiressing out again. 

Brush the clean pan over with the least touch of melted lard or 
butter — which prevents sticking and waste of dough — place the dough 
in and brush that over, too. Where economy reigns the strictest, a 
little warm water in a cup and teaspoon lard melted in it will do 
for this brushing over and insures the truest saving and smoothest 
bread. Let the dough rise till four, then spread dough on table by 
pressing out with the knuckles till it is a thin uneven sheet. Double 
it over on itself and press the two edges together all around first. 
This imprisons air in the knuckle holes in large masses. Then 
pound and press the dough with the fists till it has become a thin 
sheet again, with the inclosed ^^*v >^**^ y^^'^'^ 

then roll it up ; it Avill be like French roiis. " 

an air cushion. Let it stand a few minutes before making -into plain 
rolls, cleft rolls, or loaves. Persons in practice find it quickest to 
pull off i)ieces of dough of right size and mold them up instantly. 
Others cut off strips of dougli, roll them in lengths and cut these up in 
roll sizes ; mold thcni u]) round with no flour on the board and only 
a dust on tlie hands, and place them in regular rows on the table — 
the smoothest side down; take a little rolling pin — it looks like a 
piece of new broom handle — and roll a depression across the middle 
of each ; brush these over with the least possible melted lard or but- 
ter, using a tin-bound varnish brush for the purpose ; double the 
rolls, the two buttered sides together as seen in the cut above, and 
place them in the pans diagonally, with plenty of room so they wdll 
not touch : ])rush over the tops ctf the rolls in the pans with the least 



-BREAKFAST AND TKA CAKES. 47 



possible melted lard again, and set them to rise about an hour — less or 
more according to temperature. Bake in a hot oven, about ten min- 
utes ] brush over with clear water when done. 

Graham Rolls. — ^li.x thoroughly with a s^x^on one (juart each 
of Orahani and white th)ur, one and a half yjints lukewarm water, 
t»ne gill each of molasses and yeast, two ounces drippings or butter, 
two teasjxtons salt. Let rise, drop in buttered roll pans and bake. 
For breakfast mix at night. 

Italian Bolls. — A pound of bread dough, quarter-pound soft- 
ened butter ; Avork the butter Avell into the 
<h»ugh, and roll out about half an inch thick ; 

cut into stri])S nearly an inch wide and seven _ 

or eight inches lono;; sift over them fine ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
corn meal, place them apart on a huttered itauau rou pan. 

pan, and when light bake in a ([uick oven. 

Oatweal Bolls.— To one cup oatmeal nnish add half cup sweet 
milk, thicken with white flour till stiff enough to roll, roll out one 
inch thick, cut out with a. cutter four inches long by one and a half 
inches wide. Sprinkle a pan with corn meal, place in rolls and bake 
at once in a hot oven from half to three quarters of an hour. 

Parker House Bolls, — Rul) one-half tablespoon of l)utter, and 
one-half tal)les]>o(m of lard into two quarts of sifted flour; into a 
well in the middle pour one pint of cold boiled milk, and add one- 
half cup of yeast, one-half cup sugar, and a little salt. If wanted 
for tea, rub the flour and l)utter. and l)oil the milk, and cool it the 
night Itefore ; add sugar, yeast and salt, and turn all into the flour, 
but do not stir. Let stand overnight ; in the morning stir up, knead 
and let rise till near tea time; mold and let rise again, and bake 
(|uickly. To mold, cut with cake-cutter; put a little melted butter 
on one-half and lap nearly over on the other half. Place them in 
the pan about three-quarters of an inch apart. 

Briiff Bolls. — ]\rakc dough as for Finger Ilolls, roll to the same 
thickness in stri])S eight or nine inches in length and pinch together 
in a ring with about three inches space in the center. Be careful 
not to have the rolls of dough too large, as they will rise. 

Snoioffake Bolls. — ^Nfake like pie crust, roll pretty nearly as thin, 
cut into narrow strips, roll and twist them in the hands, pinch the 
ends together and bake in hot oven ten minutes. Eat with honey. 

Vienna Bolls. — Have ready in a bowl a tablespoon of butter 
or lard, nuide soft by warming a little, and stirring with a spoon. 
Add to one quart of unsifted flour two hea])ing teaspoons baking 
powder; mix and sift thoroughly together, and place in a bowl with 



48 



BREAKFAST AND TKA CAKES 



l)iitter. Take more or less sweet milk as may be necessary to form 
a (lough of usual stiffness, according to the flour (about three-fourths 
of a i)int), put into the milk half a teaspoon of salt, and then stir 
it into the flour, etc., with a spoon, forming the dough, which turn 
out on a board and knead sufficiently to make smooth. Rollout 
half an inch thick, and cut with a large round cutter; fold each one 
over to form a lialf round, wetting a little between the folds to make 
them stick togetlicr ; place on buttered ])ans, so as not to touch, wash 
over on top with milk to give them a gloss, and bake immediately 
in a hot oven aliout twenty minutes.' It will do them no harm to 
stand half an hour before baking, if it is desired. 

Viemia Bolls. — Two pounds flour; two cups milk; one-half 
cake compressed yeast, or one-half cup potato yeast ; two teaspoons 
each sugar and salt. Make the milk lukewaVm and dissolve the 
yeast in it. Set sponge at nine in the morning, at noon add the salt 
and sugar and make_up stiff dough. Let rise till al)out four. Then 

work the dough well on the 
table by pressing out and fold- 
ing over. Roll out the dough 
in one large sheet as thin as you 
can, which will be about the 
thinness of a dinner plate edge ; 
then, measuring with hand, cut 
the dough into strips or bands 
as wide across as hand is long. 
Cut these again into triangular 
pieces for rolls, not equal sided l>ut long and narrow triangles. Roll 
these triangular ])ieces ii]), beginning at the broad bottom end, and 
the })oint will come up in the middle, and there will be a spiral mark 
aromid from end to end. Give each roll a few turns under the hands 
to smooth it and ]ilace it on the baking-pan in the form of a crescent 
— ^^just the shai)e and size of the new moon. Brush over with water 
or melted lard. Let rise in the pans al)Out half an hour and l)ake 
about ten minutes. 

Weddinf/ Sandirich Bolls. — Late in the evening make a rather 
stiff i)otato sponge (see directions under " Bread-Making"), and in 
the morning mix in as much flour as will make a soft dough, knead 
well, and ])lace to rise; when sufficiently light, knead down again, 
repeating the o]>eration two or three times, remembering not to let 
the dougli become sour by rising too light ; mold into conmion-sized 
loaves, place in your dripping-])an to rise, and bake very carefvdly, so 
as to secure the very slightest l)rown cru.st possible. On taking out of 
the oven, roll in a cloth tightly wrung out of water, with a large 
bread-l)lanket folded and A\rapped around all. Let cool three or 
four hours, cut lengthwise of the loaf (not using the outside piece), 
first spreading lightly with good sweet butter, then cutting in slices 




Vienua EolN 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 49 



not more than a (juarter of an ineli, or just as thin as possible, using 
for this puri»osc a very thin, sharp knife; lay on cold boiled ham 
cut in very thin shavings (no matter if in small pieces), roll up very 
slowly and carefully, and place where it will not unroll. Treat eacli 
sandwich in the same manner, always spreading the bread with but- 
ter before cutting. If by chance the l)rcad is baked Avith too hard a 
crust, cut olf a thin shaving of the hrciwnest part very smoothly be- 
fore making into sandwiches. These sandwiches are truly delicious 
if proi)erly made, but they require great care, experience, and good 
judgment. Served on an ol)long platter, piled in pyramid style, row 
upon row, they Avill resemble nicely rolled dinner napkins. They 
must be made and served the same day. The best bread for use 
for these rolls is a sort of steamed bread made _es^^ 

as follows : AMien bread has raised in a single ^a^^^/!^^^^^s-^ 
loaf pan, insert it into an ordinary dripping-pan, ,^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^ 
leaving the other ])an still over the loaf. Bake w.jjii.L' uniis. 

in this way. This njakes a tougher bread than ordinary, which 
can be rolled at any lime. 

Winter Rolls. — Put three quarts flour into a large crock or 
jar, scald one quart buttermilk, add one cup lard, and ])our all 
over the flour, beating it up well ; then add one quart cold water, 
stir and add one-half cup potato yeast, or one cup brewer's; beat in 
well and set in a warm ])lace to rise overnight. In the morning add 
salt and Hour enough to make a moderately stiff dough; set in a 
w'arm p]ac(^ to rise, and when risen, knead down and set to ris(^ 
again. This time knead d(.)wn and place in a large stone crock or 
bowl, covered tightly with a tin pan to prevent the surface from 
drying, and set away in a cool place. A\'hen needed, turn out on a 
bread-board, cut off a ])ieco as large as you wish to use, roll out to 
the thickness of <n'dinary soda biscuit, cut, and put in the oven to 
bake immediately. Set aAvay the rest of the dough as before, and it 
will kee]) a week in winter, and is very convenient for hot breakfast- 
rolls. 

Roll Glaze. — Take yolks c»f two eggs and twice their bulk in 
w^ater ; put on with brush when rolls or ])rcad are half Ijaked, return 
to oven and finish baking. 

Rusk. — One ])int milk, three eggs, one tea-cup each of butter 
and sugar, and one coffee-cup potato yeast ; thicken Avith flour, and 
sponge overnight; in the morning stir down, let rise, and stir down 
again ; when it rises make into a loaf, and let rise again ; then roll 
out like soda biscuit, cut and j)Ut in pans, and, when light, bake care- 
fully. Or when baking take four cu])s dough, one-half cup butter, 
one cuj) sugar, three eggs ; mix thoroughly, adding enough flour to 
mold easily ; let rise, make into rather high and narrow biscuit, let 
rise again, rub the tops with a little sugar and water, then sprinkle 
over them dry sugar. Bake twenty minutes. 



50 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKEf?. 



Baking Pov^der Busk. — Mix tlio beaten yolks of three eggs 
with a half eu]) l)utter and one cup sugar. Make a dough of the con- 
sistency of hread dough of a (juart of sifted flour wet with water, in 
which two hea])ing teaspoons of baking ])owder and one of salt has 
been well mixed. Then add the eggs, butter and sugar, form into 
little cakes, rut) the tops with sugar and water, s])ri)iklc dry sugar 
over them and bake immediately. 

Fancy Rusk. — Break an egg into a cup, l)eat light and fdl up 
with milk, add half cup sponge, three-fourths cup sugar, one-fourth 
cup butter, enough flour for soft dough and a little cinnamon. Knead 
well, let rise, knead again, form into small rolls with buttered fin- 
gers and place in deep pan. Let them get very light before leaking. 

Lebanon Rusk.— One cup mashed potatoes, one of sugar, one of 
home-made yeast, three eggs ; mix together ; when raised liglit, add 
half cup butter or lard, and flour to make a soft dough, and, when 
quite light, mold into small cakes, and let them rise again ])efore 
baking. If wanted for tea, set about nine a. m. 

Marhlehead Busk. — Warm six ounces Initter, two of sugar and 
half cup milk, or cream, with one pound dough, mix well, beat in 
yolks of ten eggs, two at a time, and add gradually one and one- 
fourth pounds flour. Knead, set to rise, in three hours knead again, 
let rise, knead yet again, and finish as French Rolls, page 46. The 
dough may be flavored with vanilla, vanilla and rose mixed, orange, 
nutmeg, or lemon rind and little juice. Add raisins, currants and 
citron if liked. 

Southern Egg Bread. — Two cups white Indian meal, one cup 
cold boiled rice, three well beaten eggs, one taljlespoon niched but- 
ter, two and a half cups milk, or enough for a soft batter, one tea- 
spoon salt and a pinch soda. Stir the beaten eggs into the milk, 
then the meal, salt and l)utter, and lastly of all the rice. Beat u]) 
well from the bottom two or thi-ee minutes, and bake quickly in a 
round shallow pan. 

Scones.— T\\\h one-fourth })Ound Itutter and enough sweet milk 
to make a smooth paste into on(> cjuart sifted flour and two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder. Roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, 
cut into triangular cakes each side al)Out four inches long, lay on 
])uttered tin, and bake in hot oven. When half done lu'ush over 
with sweet milk. 

Sally Lunn. — Sift into a pan a pound and a half flour, put in 
two ounces butter warmed in a pint new milk, one salts})oon salt, 
three eggs well beaten, and two tablespoons good yeast. INIix well 
together, and put the whole into a tin pan well greased, and set to 
rise all night. Bake a little brown in a quick oven. Warm the milk 
and butter over water until the butter is melted ; beat the eggs in a 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 51 




two-quart tin pail, and if the milk is not hot pour it over them. Stir 
in half the flour, then add the 3'east, stirring thoroughly with the 
rest of the flour. Let rise overnight. Some add two tahlespoons 
sugar and use a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar instead of 
the yeast. 

Triif.es. — Three-quarters cup cream (milk may be used with a 
teaspoon butter), three eggs beaten separately, scant teaspoon baking 
powder, pinch each salt and cinnamon ; flour to roll out ; roll as thin 
as can be, cut into two-inch squares, drop in hot lard prepared as 
described in doughnut preface ; place on brown paper to drain and 
sprinkle with pulverized sugar ; or add more milk, making batter a 
little thicker than for pancakes, press through a meringue bag as de- 
scribed in confectionery preface into the hot lard in rings or any 
shapes Avished. "When done drain and sprinkle as above. 

Corn Ileal Wa^es. — To the beaten yolks of three eggs, add one 
quart of sour milk or butter-milk, corn meal to make a batter a lit- 
tle thicker than for jjancakes, one teaspoon salt, one 
of soda dissolved in a little warm water, then the well 
beaten whites. For dressing put on the stove a half 
(Uip cream, a tablespoon butter, and two of sugar ; 
when hot, put two tablespoons on each waffle when 
placed in the dish to serve. Nice also for buckwheat cakes. 

Quh'li Wa/Hes. — Two pints sweet milk, one cup butter (melted), 
sifted flour to make a soft batter; add the well-beaten yolks of six 
eggs, then the beaten whites, and lastly (just before baking) four 
teaspoons baking powder, beating very hard and fast for a few min- 
utes. These are very good with four or five eggs, but much better 
with more. 

Raised WaMes. — One (juart flour, one pint sweet, lukewarm 
milk, two eggs, a tablespoon melted butter, teaspoon salt, half tea- 
cup good yeast. 

Rice WaMes. — Boil half a pint rice and let it get cold, mix with 
it one-fourth pound butter and a little salt. Sift in it one and a 
half pints flour, beat five eggs separately, stir the yolks together with 
one quart milk, add whites beaten to a stiff froth, beat hard, and 
bake at once in Avaffle irons 

WaMes. — Take one quart flour, teaspoon salt, tablespoon melt- 
ed butter, and milk enough to make a thick batter. Mix thorough- 
ly. Add two well-beaten eggs, and one measure each of acid and 
soda (or two heaping teaspoons acid and one moderately heaping 
teaspoon soda) of Horsford's Bread Preparation; stir well, and bake 
at once in waffle irons. 

WaMes, ( Without Yeast or Soda). — Melt two ounces butter in 
one pint milk, and when cooled stir in a half teaspoon salt and a 



62 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



scant pint and a half flour. Beat Avhites and yolks of three egg? 
separately, stirring in the yolks and then the whites very lightly. 

Waferj^. — One pint sifted flonr, saltspoon salt, one ounce lard 
or l)Utter, white of one egg, and sweet milk enough to make dough 
to roll out. Beat with a rolling pin for twenty minutes or longer. 
Every stroke adds sweetness to. the wafers. Form dough into balls 
size of pigeon's egg and roll to size of a saucer, or as thin a.s can he. 
Sprinkle ilom- over tins and liake with care. 

Sweet Wafers. — One ])int flour, one cuj) sugar, tlu-ee eggs, one 
tablespooii l)utter, flavor Avith lemon, mix into ])atter same as for 
cake, and bake in Avafer irons. 

Walnuts. — .Sift one quart of flour, take one-fourth of it, and add 
rather more than half a cake compressed yeast, dissolved in half a 
gill warm water, make into sponge with a very little niore water, put 
it in a warm place ; when it is (hnible its size make a hole in the 
center of the rest of the flour, and put in it a teaspoon each salt and 
sugar, two tablespoons tepid water, three-quarters pound butter 
and four eggs ; beat well, then add anotlier egg, beat again, and add 
another, and so on until seven have l)een used ; the ])aste must be 
soft, but not spread; if too Arm, add another egg. Now mix this 
paste tlioroughly with the sponge, beating until the paste leaves the 
sides of the bowl, then put it in a crock and cover; let stand four 
hours in a warm place, turn it out on a board, spread if and double 
it four times, return it to the crock, and let it rise again two hours ; 
repeat the former process of douliling and spreading, and put it in a 
very cold place for two hours, or until wanted for use. ^Nlold in any 
fonn lik«l, but a preferred way is to make two pieces, one as large 
again as the other; form the large one into a ball, make a deep de- 
pression in the center, on which place the smaller ball, presiding it 
gently in ; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp knife, and 
bake a beautiful golden brown. These Walnuts are the same as the 
renowned French Brioche. 

Weimarlies. — Take one quart lu'ead dough, or make a sponge 
with a pint flour and a yeast-cake soaked in half a pint warm water 
or milk, then add another pint flour ; when light add four tablespoon.'* 
butter, a little sugar, and t^vo eggs; work well. If bread dough is 
used, dredge in a little more flour on account of eggs, but wot ver/f 
much ; let rise, and when lighter than for l)read, proceed as \\\ nuikin'g 
rolls by pushing it down with fist till not larger than when ]>ut in pan ; 
let rise and again push down but not so much as before : let rise, and 
jmsh down again ; then turn dough on molding board lightly floured, 
roll as pie-crust into pieces six inches square, and quarter of an inch 
tln<'k, make two sharp, quick cuts across from corner to corner, and 
there will ])e from each square, four three-cornered pieces of pa.ste : 
spread each thinbj with soft butter, flour liglitly, and roll up, as in 
Vienna Bolls, (page 48) very lightly from the wide side, taking care 



YKAST. 53 

that it is not squeezed together in any way ; lay them on a tin with 
the side on which tlie point comes uppermost, and bend round in 
the form of a horseslioe ; tliese will take some time to rise ; when 
they have swollen much and look light, brush over with white of 
egg (not beaten) or milk and butter, and bake in a good oven. 
Krincfles are made as above only add another egg and two table- 
spoons sugar (powdered), and instead of rolling as pie-crust, break 
off pieces, roll between the hands until thick as lingers, and form 
into figure eights, rings, fingers, or make twists 
as in cut ; or take three strips. Hour and roll 
them as thick as the finger, tapering at each 
Twist Rolls. end ; lay them on the board, fasten the three 

together at one end, and then lay one over the other in a plait, fasten 
the other end. and set to rise ; bake, and when done, brush over Avith 
sugar dissolved in milk, and sprinkle Avith sugar. 




Yeast. 



The best is potato yeast, with or without hops, because bread 
made with it is moister; without hops there is no danger of injuring 
the flavor of the ])read by an excess of yeast, but there is a pn^scrv- 
ing quality in hops that i)i-events the yeast from l)e(>oming sour as 
soon as simple potato ycnist, which is only "good for one day." The 
l>roportion of hoj) yc-ast given in any of our recipes will not cause 
a bitter taste. Dry yeast should be made in May or June for sum- 
mer use, and in Octol)er for winter use. In hot and dami) Avt'athei- 
dry yeast sometimes loses its vitality; however, many use it on ac- 
count of its convenience, since there is no danger of its s(juring in 
summer or freezing m Avintcr. Soft hop or potato yeast Avill keep in 
a cool place one or two AvcM'ks in Avarm Aveather, and in cold Aveather 
five or six Aveeks, care ])eing taken that it does not freeze, but it 
makes more Avholesome bread to make frc^sli every Aveek or two the 
year round. Never add soda to yeast; if it bec(jmes S(jur it Avill do 
to start fresh yeast, but AA'ill nerei' make good bread. J>oil the ho[)s 
{without tying in a cloth, as that keeps the ])ollen, an iini»ortant 
rising property, out of the yeast) in a new cofiee-pot and make the 
yeast in a bright tin pan kejjt for these ])ur]»oses alone. AVhen boiled 
thick lik(' starcli ]>ut m a large jar, cover, set in a pan in a warm 
(not liot) place, and stir down as it ferments, adding yeast as given 
in recipe, Avhen milk Avann. "When it is risen sufliciently, Avhich Avill 
l)e in about a day, a thick Avbite scum rises to tiie to]); then place in 
a stone or glass jar Avith a close fitting c(i\-er, or in a. jug, on the eel- 



54 YEAST. 

lar bottom, in the refrigerator, or some other cool place. The jar or 
jug should be filled to the brim, and the cork should be loose for 
first twelve hours, then tightened perfecth\ Always shake the jug 
])efore taking out yeast for use. Extreme heat or freezing kills the 
plant, Avhich grows Avhile fermentation goes on. The jar or jug, 
when emptied, should bo Avashed first in cold Avater, then in soap 
and Avater, and afterAvard in hot Avater, Avhich may be alloAved to 
stand a half hour, Avhen pour out. Let jar cool and it is ready for 
use. The cork or coA'er needs the same careful attention. Many 
times the yeast is spoiled by Avant of care and neatness in AA'ashing 
the yeast jar. Use dried or pressed, ncA'er fresh hops. Dried hops 
keep good a year, but pressed retain their strength longer, and eith- 
er should be kept in a paper sack in a cool, dry place. Select hops 
shoAA'ing the pollen dust, and always boil them Avithout sack, as sug- 
gested aboA'e. One pint potato yeast, one. tea-cup hop yeast, a piece 
compressed yeast size of a walnut, and one yeast cake, or tAvo-thirds 
tea-cup yeast crumbs are equal in strength. "\^'cll made yeast cakes 
Avill keep good if put in a tin box in a dry place from two to three 
months. "When yeast cakes that have been put to soak are quite soft 
mash them entirely and stir them thoroughly Avith tlie sponge. 
Their odor and taste is sometimes thought to be given to tlie bread, 
rendering their use ol)jectionable ; but if })roperly used one cannot 
perceiA'e any difi'ercnce betAveen bread made with them and Avith soft 
yeast. A clifTerence of opinion exists m regard to the use of cooked 
and raw potatoes for yeast. Individually Ave prefer the grated pota- 
toes, but others use them boiled Avilh good success. Boiled potatoes 
should be mashed fine and put through a colander before using for 
yeast, and raAV ones must be peeled and grated into a crock contain- 
ing sufficient Avater to cover them, Avhich prevents their darkening 
and so discoloring the yeast and bread. Some grate the potatoes 
Avith a quantity of Avater, letting stand until they settle to the bot- 
tom and then pouring off' the Avater. 



Dry Yeast. — Boil tAvo large potatoes and a handful hops (the 
latter in a bag) in three pints Avater ; Avhen done, take out ])otatoes, 
mash Avell, add one pint fiour, and ])our thd boiling hop Avatcr over 
all ; beat Avcll together, adding one tablespoon salt, one of ginger, and 
one-half cup sugar ; Avhen lukewarm add one cup good yeast and let 
stand two days (or only one day if very warm AVfather), stirring 



YEAST. 55 

down frequently : add good white corn meal until thick enough to 
make into cakes about half an inch in thickness ; place to dry in the 
shade (never expose to the sun or to stove heat) where the air will 
pass freely, so as to dry them as soon as ])ossil)le, as the fermentation 
goes on as long as there is any moisture ; turn the cakes frequently, 
breaking them up somewhat, or even c]'um])ling, so they will dry out 
evenly and quickly; when, thoroughly dried put in a paper sack and 
keep in a dry place. A small cake will make a sponge sufficient to 
bake five or six ordinary loaves. 

Yeast. — Pare and boil four ordinary sized potatoes in two 
quarts of water, boiling at the same time in a separate vessel a good 
handful hops. When potatoes are done, mash fine, pass through a 
colander, and add, after straining, the water in Avhich the hops were 
boiled ; put into this one cup white sugar and one-half cup salt, and 
add sufficient water to make one gallon ; when cold add one cup 
good yeast, let stand in a warm place for a few hours, until it will 
" sing " on being stirred, when it is ready for use. Keep covered in 
a cellar or c-ool place. 

Farmers^ Yeast. — A yeast Avhi<'h is especially good for the use 
of farmers, and others Avho use a great deal of bread and bake fre- 
quently, is made as follows: Take a handful unpressed or two 
ounces pressed hops (those showing the pollen dust are best), put 
them in one quart water with four ordinary potatoes, and l)oil till 
the potatoes are well cooked ; mash all together, and strain through 
a linen strainer, ad<l flour enough to make a thick batter, a teaspoon 
salt, a tablespoon pulverized ginger and half a cup sugar ; set it back 
on the fire and let it come to a boil, stirring constantly, and set by 
to cool ; when only milk-warm add a cup old yeast, or two cakes 
grocers' dry hop yeast, or half a cup bakers'. This Avill be light in 
two or three hours. The yeast may ))e made perpetual, by saving a 
cup when start(>d, but it must be kept from freezing in winter and in 
a cool place in summer. This is a good mode, and acceptable to all 
who prefer yeast bread. 

Hop Yeast. — Place a handful ho]is in two quarts cold water, 
boil sloAvly for a half hour, strain boiling hot on one pint Hour and 
one tablespoon salt (gradually at first in order to mix smoothl}^) ; 
when lukewarm add a half pint yeast, and set in a warm place to 
rise. ^Micn light, cover and keep in a cool place. 

IJgJdnlng Yeast. — To a half-cup warm water add a pinch each 
salt and sugar and stir in corn meal until quite thick. Put in a 
warm place overnight, or stirred in the morning and kept warm it 
will be light in a few hours. Put about two tables])oons of this 
lightning into your rising and it will be up in an hour. The yeast 
will not look verv light l>ut will be vci-y porous. 

Potato Yeast.— V^oW one cup hops in two (piarts water fifteen 



56 YEAST. 

minutes. "While hops are boiling grate five good-sized Irish potatoes 
as directed in yeast prefiice, add one cup white sugar and one table- 
spoon each salt and ginger. Pour this mixture into the briglit tin 
yeast pan and strain the hop Avater upon it. Cook from five to ten 
minutes, stirring occasionally, when it will boil up thick like starch ; 
some do not boil the mixture, simply turn the boihng hop water over 
it ; turn into a jar, and when just tepid in summer, or quite warm in 
winter, add one-half pint good yeast (always save some to start 
Avith) ; set jar in a largo tin pan, and as often as it rises stir down 
until fermentation ceases, when it will be quite thin. Cover closely, 
set away in a cool place, and it will keep two weeks. When yeast 
smells sour but does not taste sour it is still good ; if it has no smell 
it is dead. One cup will make six good-sized loaves. 

Potato-Ball Yeast. — Boil and mash four or five medium-sized 
potatoes, or enough to make about a pint, add scant tablespoon each 
salt, Avhite sugar and when cool a half package compressed yeast, or if 
you cannot get the compressed, take half cake dry yeast, soak in as 
little water as possible and add ; mold into a ball, lay away where it 
will not freeze ; after a day prepare potatoes in same way except that 
instead of adding yeast when cool, add first ball, work togethei- 
thoroughly and mold into two balls of same size. These are ready 
for use any time after twelve hours, and one will be sufficient to raise 
four ordinary loaves. Set sponge overnight, dissolving the potato 
ball in about a quart lukewarm Avater, AAdiich Avill be sufficient Avet- 
ting. A supply of this yeast can be kept on hand by preparing po- 
tatoes and making a new ball as above directed the day before baking. 

Potato Yeast Without Hops. — Four good-sized potatoes peeled, 
boiled and mashed, four tablespoons Avhite sugar, one of ginger, one 
of salt, tAvo cu[)S Hour ; ])our over tliis a pint boiling Avatei', and beat 
till all the lumi)s disapjx'ar. After it has cooled, add to it one cuj) 
good yeast, and set away to rise; Avhen risen put in glass or stone 
jar, cover and set aAvay in a cool place. 

Yeast without Yeast. — This requires no yeast to raise it, and 
has been called the " best yeast in the Avorld." Monday morning, 
boil one pint ]i()i>s in two gallons Avater for half an hour, strain into 
a crock and let the liquid l)ccome lukewarm, add two even teaspoons 
salt and half a pint best hrown sugar ; mix lialf a ]>int flour smooth 
Avith some of the liquor and stir all Avell together. On Wednesday, 
H(ld three pounds ])otatoes boiled and mashed, stir Avell and let stand 
till Thursday, tiien strain and put in stone jugs, but for the first day 
or two leave the corks quite loose. Stir the yeast occasionally Avhile 
making, and kee}i near the fire. It should l)e made two weeks before 
using, and Avill keep any length of time, improving Avith age. Keej) 
it in a cool j)lace and shake the jug before pouring froui it, but Avitli 
th(^ cork out, holding the palm of the hand over the mouth to pre- 
A'ent the escape of the yeast. i 



TOA.ST. Ol 

Yahoo Yeast. — Mix one quart flour, one teacup sugar, two tea- 
spoons alum with warm water to a creamy consistency, and add one 
teacup yeast. When well risen it can l)e made into cakes with meal 
and dried ; or for Saltless Yeast, wash, pare and boil six potatoes ; 
when done, pour potatoes and water upon half quart flour in pan, 
mash to a smooth paste, add more hoiling water if needed, one 
tablespoon sugar and thin with ice water till like thick cream. When 
tepid, add half pint yeast and finish as directed in general directions. 
Some claim that grated raw potato yeast can in winter he frozen 
solid and kept so. thawing as wanted and then refreezing. This 
might be well worth trying. 



Tcxist. 



Although toast is commonly used, few know how to prepare it 
nicely. Take bread not too fresh, cut thin and evenly, trim off the 
crust-edges for the crumb-jar ; first warm each side of the bread, then 
present the first •t^ide again to the fire until it takes on a rich, even 
brown color; treat the other side in the same way. The coals should 
be bright and hot. Toast properly made is very digestible, because 
all the moisture is extracted, and the bread has become pure farina 
of wheat; but when it is exposed to a hot fire and the outside 
charred, the inside remains as moist as ever, 
and butter applied to it while warm does nut 
penetrate, but floats on the surface in the 
form of rancid oil. Vegetable and meat 
toasts are improve<l by dipping the slices in 
a shallow dish of hot water, slightly salted, 
in which a piece of butter has been melted. 
This should be done always when toast is* 
hastilu prepared and served. Dry toa.st 
made after the recipe given is ixn excellent foundation for the various 
dishes under this heading, as it may be prepared in a quantity and 
kept a long time, and is thus always at hand. 

AncJiovy Toast. — Slice bread the day after leaking, and toast il 
evenly and quickly ; remove the crust, spread with a little l)utter, 
and then with anchovy butter made as folloAvs : Scrape the skin 
from a dozen fine anchovies, take the flesh from the bones, pound it 
smooth in a mortar; rub thi'(nigh a hair-sieve, put the anchovies 




58 TOAST. 

into the mortar with three-fourths pound fresh butter, a small quan- 
tity cayenne, and a saltspoon each of grated nutmeg and mace ; heat 
together until thoroughly blended. 

As2)aragus Toast. — AVash the asparagus clean, cut off the white 
part except a mere end, put into slightly salted boiling water, boil 
iive minutes, pour off water, add more boiling hot ; boil ten to fifteen 
minutes, then put in a lump of butter, salt and pepper (some stir in 
a thickening made of one teaspoon flour mixed up with cold water) ; 
cut and toast thin slices of bread, spread with butter and put in a 
dish, and over them turn asparagus and gravy. The water must be 
boiled down until just enough for the gi'avy, which is made as 
above. 

Breakfast Toast. — Chop cold steak or tongue very fine, cook in 
a little water, put in cream or milk, thicken, season with butter, salt 
and pepper, and pour it over slices of toast. Cold l)oiled beef or 
fried liver may be used instead of steak. Prepare boiled ham in the 
.same wav, adding the volk of an egg. 



oe- 



Buttered Toast.— Toai^i slices of bread as directed in preface, 
butter well and serve imniediately ; or, beat one cup butter and three 
tablespoons flour to a cream, pour over this one *\wA a half pints 
hoiling water; place over a kettle oiboilivp water for ten minutes, 
dip into it the toast, and serve hot ; or, dij) each slice of toast in 
boiling liot water (slightly salted), spread with butter, cover and 
keep hot. 

Cheese and Egg Toast. — Melt a cup cheese crumbs in a half 
pint rich milk seasoned with salt, pepper and butter to taste, and 
stir in two Avell beaten eggs. Cook a few minutes, stirring constantly. 
Spread over toasted bread and serve on liot platter. 

Cream. 7(>a5A— Scald but do not boil one (juart milk, salted, and 
thicken with two tablespoons flour or one of corn starch ; add two 
tablespoons butter an^l the whipped whites of three eggs or a gill of 
cream. Boil up once and pour over the toast, lifting eaeli lower 
slice so that the mixture may penetrate them. The slices of toast 
should first 1x' dipped into a shallow dish of hot water into which a 
tablespoon of butter has been melted. Excellent without the egg or 
cream. 

Chicken Toast. — Prepare the meat as for beefsteak toast, using 
with or instead of cream or milk tlie gravy from the chicken when 
you have it. Delicious. 

Codfish Toast. — Make a codfish cream as given in 'Tish Keci- 
yjes" and pour over slices of nicely buttered toast. Chipped dried 
beef mav be served in same wav. 



TOAST. 59 

Dry Toast. — After bread dough has been prepared for biscuits 
by adding egg, butter and sugar, make into long, narrow loaves, 
place in pan, lot rise and bake. Day after baking slice thin, put in 
large baking pan and brown in oven, turning and browning other 
side. A quantity can be lirowned, or brown as needed each day. 
Serve with soup, or very nice l)]-okcn in milk, tea or coffee. 

Egg Toast. — Break eggs in suflicicnt Ijoiling hot (but not really 
boiling) water to cover them, slightly salted. Simmer gently until 
the eggs are delicately cooked, or until the yolks are covered with a 
white film. Take them up with a skimmer, and lay each on a slice 
of buttered toast, ])revious]y dipped in salted hot water. Butter and 
})epper may be added at table, and eat with ^\\■>rcestershire sauce. 
This is an unexcelled breakfast disli. 

Excellent Toast. — Cut slices of a uniform thickness of half an 
inch ; move around over a brisk fire, to have all parts toasted alike ; 
keejkonly so near the coals that the pieces will be heated through 
when both sides are well browned. If the slightest point is blacken- 
ed or charred, scrape it ofi' or it Avill spoil the flavor of the whole. 
If covered with an earthen boMi, it will keep both warm and moist. 
A clean towel or nai)kin will answer if it is to go at once to the table. 
Stale bread may l)e used for milk-toast ; sour bread may be improv- 
ed by toasting it through, but sweet, light bread, only a day old or 
less, makes the best toast. 

French Toast. — Add to one-half pint sAvcet milk two table- 
spoons sugar, a little salt and a well-beaten egg ; dip in this slices of 
bread (if dry, let it soak a minute), fry on a buttered griddle until it 
is a light brown on each side ; sprinkle with sugar and serve. This 
is a good way to use dry bread. 

Lemon Toast. — Into three cups sweet milk stir the well-beaten 
yolks of six eggs. Dip slices of l)read into the mixture and fry in 
i>utter to a delicate broAvn ; froth the whites of the eggs, add a large 
cup Avhite sugar, two cups boiling water, and the juice and a little of 
the grated rind of two lemons. Pour this juice over the toast and 
you have a delicious supper dish. 

Meimonite Toast. — Beat up three eggs well, add a pint sweet 
milk and a pinch salt ; cut slices an inch thick from a loaf baker's 
bread, remove crust, dip sHces into the eggs and milk, fry like dough- 
nuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a delicate brown, butter and 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. 

Oyster 76>«6'i!.— Prepare an oyster stew with plenty of milk, 
lightly seasoned with butter or cream if you have it, pepper, salt, 
etc., and pour over slices of toast i)reviously dipped in hot water. 
Place oysters carefully on the slices and serve on hot platter. 



60 TOAST. 

Sausage Toast. — Is made by scalding the sausages in boiling 
Avater, frying to light brown, chop line, and spread on bits of toast. 

Tomato Toast. — Run a quart of stewed lipe tomatoes through 
a colander, place in a ])orcelain stew-pan, seasoii Avith butter, pepper 
and salt and sugar to taste ; cut slices of bread thin, brown on both 
sides, butter and lay on a platter, and just as the bell rings for tea 
add a pint of good sweet cream to the stewed tomatoes, and j^our 
them over toast. 

Marrow-Bone Toast. — Cover two beef shinbones, five to seven 
inch(!S long, with dough and wrap in muslin ; cover with hot water 
and boil an hour and a half. Remove cloth and dough, shake or 
draw out the marrow with a fork upon slices of hot toast ; season 
Avith salt, a bit of cayenne and a little chopped celery. 

Ouster Toast.— T-i^^a one and a half dozen nice oysters, chop 
fine, put in saucepan with some of their liquor, add ])epper and a 
small pinch of nutmeg; cook a minute or tw(^, stir in the beaten 
yolks of two eggs and a gill of cream ; let boil up once, add salt and 
pour over slices of buttered bread ; serve Jiot. 

Salmon Toast. — Mince some canned salmon fine, put in sauce- 
pan with a little milk or cream, let heat, season and serve on toast. 
Poaching egg and placing on center t>f each slice of toast, putting 
Hie salmon around the egg, is a more elaborate manner of serving, 
and is very delicious 

Tongue Toast. — Put finely chopped cold tongue in saucepan 
Avith a little Avater; Avhen heated add a small lump butter, salt and 
pej>per, then stir in two beaten eggs and pour mixture on each slice 
of toast; or add with the seasoning milk to make quite a gravy; 
stir in a little thickening of fiour and water, let boil a few moments, 
and pour over the toast Avithout adding eggs. The latter way is good 
for any l)its of meat, fowl or game, and requires less than Avitliout 
the milk. 

Water T'oast. — Cut either white or (iraham bread into slices a 
quarter of an inch thick, trim off crusts and brown in a moderate 
oven, as in Drg Toast recipe. Tliis is the way to prepare all toasts, 
as all the moisture is thus evaporated, Avhile holding before the fire 
only warms the moisture, making inside of bread doughy and indi- 
gestible. For dry toast, butter slightly and serve in a folded napkin 
if Avished hot. as racks allow lieat to escape ; dip edges into hot 
Avater quickly, and butter at once. In making milk toast, wet -the 
utensil to be used in cold water, as this will prevent burning. 



CAKE MAKING. 



61 



CAKE MAKING-. 



"Let all tliinti'^^ !><■ dono decently and in order," and the first to 
^■>ut in order when yuu are going to hake is yourself. Secure the 
hail- in a net or oilier covering, to prevent any from falling, anel 
lirush the shoulders and hack to he sure none are lodged there that 
might hlow ofll'; make the hands and finger nails clean, roll the 
.sleeves up ahove the elbows, and put on a large, clean apron. Clean 
ihe kitchen table of utensils and every thing not needed, and pro- 
vide every thing that Avill be needed until the cake is baked, not 
forg(>tting even the broom-splints previously ]>icked off the new 

broom and laid away carefully in a little 
l»ox. (A knitting or trussing-needle may 
be kept for testing cake instead of splints). 
If it is warm weather, ])lace the eggs in 
cold water, and let stand a few minutes, as 
they will then make finer froth ; and be 
sure they are IVcsh. as they Avill not iriake a slid" iVoth after any 
amount of Ix'ating if old. To beat eggs (piickly. add a pinch of 
salt, which co(.>ls and freshens them. iJreak the eggs one at a time 
into a saucer so that if there V>e a bad one it will not spoil the others, 
and carefully remove all specks before beating. The cake-tins should 
be prepared before the cake, when ])aking powder is used, as it effer- 
vesces but once, and there should be no delay in baking, as the mix- 
ture should l)e made firm by the heat Avhile the effervescing process 
is going on. (irease the pans Avith fresh lard, or Amei'ican Cooking 
Oil, either of which is much better than butter ; line the bottom with 
})aper. using six or eight thicknesses if the cake is large, and greas- 




62 



CAKE MAKING. 



ing the top one -well. (In some ovens, hoAveA-er, fcAVcr thicknesses 
of paper would be needed on the bottom, and in some the sides also 
should be lined with one or two thicknesses.) NeA'er l)ake cakes or 
confectionery tliat contaiiT no shortening on Imttcred i)aper or tin. 
Use fine, clean manilla paper, obtained for the purpose, instead. 
Sift Uoiir and sugar (if not pulverized), and measure or weigh. 
Firkin or very salt Initter should lu' cut in ]»its and washed to fresh- 
en a little; if very hard, warm carefully, but in no case allow any of 
it to melt, (iood l)utter must be used, as the heat develops any 
latent l)ad (lualities. Use i)ulverized sugar for all delicate cakes ; 
for rich cakes cOiffee-crushed, poAvdered and sifted ; for dark cakes, 
the best broAvn sugars are best; for jelly-cakes, light fruit cakes, etc., 
fine granulated and coffee "A" arc best and most economical. In 
ordering granulated sugar always s})ecify the ii}ie Avhich is cheaper 
and much better for all uses than the coarse. Beat the yolks of 
eggs thoroughly, or until they assume a light, frosty appearance 
(this is as important as to Avhip the Avhites,) and strain ; set theAvhites 
aAvay in a cool place until the cake is ready for them, then beat them 
vigorously in a cool room till they Avill remain in the dish Avhen 
turned upside doAvn. Rinse the cup or boAA'l used for yolks Avith 
part of the milk ; remember this in all cooking Avhere yolks and 
milk are used. 8ift a jiart of the measured flour Avith the baking 
poAvder or soda and cream tartar through a hand- 
sieve (Avhich should be among the utensils of ev- 
ery housekeeper), and mix thoroughly Avith the 
rest of the flour. In using ncAv flour for either 
bread or cake-making, it can l)e "ripened'' for 
use b}' j)lacing the quantity intended for baking 
in the hot sun for a fcAv hours, or before the 
kitchen fire. In using milk, note this : that sour 
milk makes a spongy, light cake ; SAveet milk, one that cuts like 
pound cake ; remembering that Avith sour milk soda alone is used, 
Avhile Avith SAveet milk baking poAvder or soda and cream tartar are 
to be added. 

HaA^ng thus gathered the material, cut Initter (in cold Aveather) 
into small pieces, and Avarm, not melt; beat the butter to a cream, 
then add the sugar and beat again to a cream, add the milk in small 
quantities (never use fresh and stale milk in same cake), next the 
yolks of eggs, then a part of the flour, then a part of the Avhites, and 




CAKE MAKING. 



63 




(_';ik.- IV 



SO on until the wliole is used ; lastly, add the flavoring. Many good 
cake-makers first stir the milk and flavoring into the ereamed butter 
jmd sugar, then the yolks, next the whites, and lastly the flour, first 
taking alxnit two-thirds of it and thoroughly mixing the baking 
powder tlu'ough it ; the renuunder of the flour is then left to be used 
at diseretion. A little more or less flour may be 
needed, aeeouling to the x-limate, or to the kind of 
flour used, as the " New Proeess " flour reciuires one- 
ciglith less than other brands. There is great "knack" 
in beating cake ; don't stir, but heat thoroughly, l>ringing the batter 
up from the bottom of the dish at every stroke ; in this way the air is 
driven into the cells of the batter, instead of out of them— but the cells 
will be finer if beaten more slowly at the last, remembering that the 
motion should always l)e upward and the spoon always come up full. 
In winter it is easier'to beat with the hand, but in summer a wooden or 
silver spoon is better, and a wood<Mi 
paddle is best, though some prefer tlu' ^ff^ ■' " ■ ■ 

peculiar form of si)Oon given in ou 



IV r,.-atiuK Si" 



illustration, the si)aces through the bowl of which double the amount 
of work done l)y it in beating cakes, eggs, etc. An iron spoon 
turns the mixture dark. Never beat a cake in tin, l>ut use earthen 
or stoneware. Unskillful mixing, too rapid or unequal baking, or a 
sudden decrease in heat before it is quite done, will cause streaks in 
tlie cake. Always bake a small cake first ; fill a patty pan, or cover 
to a baking-powder can, one-third full, and bake; then add more or 
less flour as required. If the cake is hard and solid, it needs a few 
teaspoons of milk ; if more ilour is needed it will fall in the middle 
and be spongy and crumbly. Powdered sugar may l)e sifted on the 
top of any cidce while it is a little warm ; if it dissolves add more 
when it is cold ; kec}) some for that pur- 
pose in a sjnce l)ox with a perforated top. 
The while ])ortion of orange or lemon-peel 
should never be used ; gi'ate only the yellow. When recipes call for 
soda and cream of tartar, baking ])Owder may l)e used l)y taking- a 
quantity equal to both. "Milk" always means street milk. "A cup" 
always means a tea-ewi^. not a coffee-cu}). But in making any recipe 
if the same size cup is used in measuring the ingredients, the result 
Avill be the same. The regulation tea-cup means two gills, and as tea 
and coffee-cups vary so in size now, a set of regular measures, quarts, 



■aid- Pu.1.11. 



64 CAKE MAKING. 




pints, gills, etc. M-oul(l be advisal^le, two sets l:)eing really necessary, 
so as to have one of each size for measuring dry articles, flour, 
sugar, etc. In using recipes given by weight, if scales are not at hand. 
the table of weights and measures given in back pai't of book will 
be found a relial)le guide. Sour milk may always 
be used instead of sweet, by using soda only. 
The proportions of raising powder to %ne quart of 
flour arc two heaping teaspoons baking powder, or 
one teaspoon soda and two teaspoons cream tartar, 
or one pint sour milk and one level teaspoon soda. Owing to the 
alarming adulterations in cooking materials, a chemist advises using 
tartaric acid instead of cream of tartar. It costs about twice as 
much, l)ut only half the quantity is needed. 

In blanching almonds, do not put them into the water until it 
comes to a l)oil ; let boil a few minutes after nuts are put in, then 
throw them into cold water, slip oflf the skins and dry them in the 
open air. Do not dry them in the oven, which takes away the oil. 
Prepare the day before wanted. 

Fruit, wedding and black cake kecpAvcll in waxed ])aper, but bet- 
ter and longer if wrapped in tin foil, or wrap in clean toAvel or nap- 
kin wet in alcohol or whisky, re-wetting occasionally, say once a. 
week, and set in a cool place. 

Chocolate loaf and white sponge or delicate cake can be made to 
advantage at the same time, using yolks of eggs for former and whites 
for latter. Cut into squares and heaped together in tlic cake basket 
they present an agreeable appearance. 

To make an economical marble cake, any ordinary cake r^'cipe 
will do, using whites of eggs and white sugar with lemon flavoring" 
for the light part, and the yolks, brown sugar and s})ices, or grated 
chocolate, for the dark, taking for each part half the (piantity given 
in the recipe. Layer cakes may be varied in the same way, alternat- 
ing dark and light layers when putting together; or, stir fruit into 
one or two layers. Clarified butter is much better than either lard 
or'butter for greasing cake pans, and is prepared by putting butter 
over the fire in a porcelain bowl or farina boiler until the white 
cheesy grains have formed in it. Then set to one side, skim oflf all 
that rises to the top, settle and strain and bottle for future use. It 
Avill keep for years, and should be always at hand, as beside its su- 
periority for the ]>urpose named above, it is especially })rized for fry- 



CAKE MA KIN*;. 65 




ing oysters, croquettes, fritters, etc. If the butter is stale or rancid, 
after skimming it put in one or more slices of toasted bread, Avliich 
will absorb the ofTcnsive taste or odor in a few minutes. 

Fin; IT f'AKK. 

Most ladies think fruit cake quite incomplete without 
wine or brandy, but it can be made equally good on strictly 
temperance principles, by substituting one-third cup molasses for a 
wineglass of brandy. The objection to the use of brandy in sauces 
does not, however, hold good against that used in cake 
making, as the alcohol is converted to vapor by the heat 
and passes off Avith the other gases. There are many, 
however, Avho object to the use of liquors in any way and 
to keeping them in the house, and such will find the alwvc an excel- 
lent and cheap substitute. 

Raisins should never be washed, as it is difficult to dry out tlic 
moisture absorbed by them, and every jjarticle of moisture retained 
tends to make the cake heavy. To remove the stems and extraneous 
matter, place the raisins in a coarse towel and rub them in this un- 
til as clean as rubbing will make them ; then pick over carefully, re- 
moving any stems or other defects which may be left. The raisins 
should Ijc prepared before the cake, spi'inkled with Hour, and added 
the last thing before putting it in oven, as 1.)eing heavy, they sink 
to the ])ottom if allowed to stand. To see<l,c]ip Avith the scissors or 
cut Avith a sharp knife. Do not chop too fine ; if for light fruit cake 
seeding is ail that is necessary. Slice the citron thin, and do not 
have the pieces too large, or they Avill cause the cake to break apart 
in cutting. Currants should be kept prepared for use as folloAvs : 
Wash in Avarm Avater, rubbing aa^cII. pour off Avater. and repeat until 
the Avater is clear; drain them in a sicA^e spread on a cloth and rub 
dry ; pick out bad ones, dry carefully in a cool oa-cu or in the 
" heater " (or in the sun and Avind, Avith a thin gauze over them to 
keep off flies, insects and dust), and set away for use. When the 
fruit is all mixed, cream the butter and sugar — this is very impor- 
tant in all cakes — add the spices, molasses, or liquors, then the milk 
(if any used), next the eggSAA'ell beaten, adding Avhites Avith the flour 
as preA'iously directed. Ahvays beat Avhites and yolks separately. 
Next add the flour (Avhich, in making black fruit cake, may be 
broAvned), ]ivepare(l with baking yioAvdor or soda and ei-eain tartar. 



66 CAKE MAKIXG. 



then the flavoring (lemon and vanilla, in equal parts, make the best 
flavoring), and lastly the fruit dredged with a w^^'y little flour. Some 
prefer to mix the fruit with all the flour. ^V^len but little fruit is 
used it may be dropped into the dough after it is in the pan, and 
pushed just beneath the surface, which prevents it from settling to 
the bottom. The batter for fruit cake should be quite stiff". 

In making very large cakes that require three or four hours to 
bake, an excellent way for lining the pan is the following : Fit three 
papers carefully, grease thoroughly, make a paste of equal parts 
Graham and fine flour, wet with Avater just stiff" enough to spread 
easily with a spoon, place the first paper in the pan with the greased 
side down, and spread the paste evenl}' over tire paper about as 
thick as pie-crust. In covering the sides of the pan, use a little paste 
to stick a portion of the paper to the top of the pan to keep it from 
slipping out of place, press the second paper carefully into its place, 
with the greased side up, and next put in the third paper as you 
would into any baking pan, and pour in the cake. Earthen pans 
are used by some, as they do not lieat so quickly and iire less liable 
to burn the cake. 

When using a milk-pan, or pans without stems, a glass bottle 
filled with shot to give it weight, well greased, may be placed in the 
center of the pan, or a stem may be made of paste-board, rolled up, 
but the latter is jnore troublesome to keep in place. The cake is apt 
to burn around the edges before it is done unless there is a tube in 
the center. 

This handled strainer is made in several sizes and is not only a 
convenience in cake making for straining yolks, etc., but is also very 
useful for straining drinks for nursery 
and sick room, yeast, blanc mange, gra- 
vies, custards, syrups, jellies, and for sift- 
ing sugar ui)oa fruit, cakes and pies, 
and sifting salt into butter, excluding Himdied .straioer. 

all lumps. The strainer may be placed over a tumbler or bowl, rest- 
ing on the knob on one side and handle on the other. 

All except layta* cakes should be covered with a paper cap, (or a 
sheet of brown ])aper, which the careful housewife will save from her 
grocers' packages), when first put into the oven. Take a square of 
broAvn paper large enough to cover well the cake pan, cut off" the cor- 
ners and lay a plait on four sides, fastening each with a pin so as to 




CAKE-MAK1X«. 67 



fit nicely over the pau. This will throw it up in the center, so that 
the eover will not touch the cake. Save the cap, as it can be used 
several times. 

Before commencing, clean out the stove, take off the lids and 
brush inside, rake it out underneath, get all the ashes out of the cor- 
ners, have the best of fuel at hand. Don't build a baking fire before 
it is needed, have it onlj^ moderate, and add the extra fuel in time 
to get it nicely burning. 

THE OVEN. 

Too much care cannot be given to the preparation of the 
oven, which is oftener too hot than too cool ; however, an oven 
too cold at first will ruin any cake. But fruit cake requires a very 
moderate oven — not hot enough to thoroughly brown apiece of com- 
mon white note-paper in less than an hour — and a loaf of ordinary 
size requires from three to four hours to bake. Cake should rise and 
begin to bake before browning much, large cakes requiring a good, 
steady, solid heat, about such as for baking bread ; layer cakes, a 
brisk, hot fire, as they must be baked quickly. A good plan is to fill 
the stove with hard wood (ash is the best for baking), let it burn un- 
til there is a good body of heat, and then turn damper so as to 
throw the heat to tho bottom of the oven for fully ten minutes be- 
fore the cake is put in. In this way a steady heat to start with is se- 
cured. Grenerally it is better to close the hearth when the cake is put 
in, as this stops the draft and makes a more regular heat. Keep 
adding wood in small quantities, for if the heat becomes slack the 
cake will be heavy. Great care must be taken, for some stoves need 
to have the dampers changed every now and then, but as a rule more 
heat is needed at the bottom of the oven than at the top. Many 
test their ovens in this way : if the hand can be held in from twenty 
to thirty-five seconds (or while counting twenty or thirty-five), it is 
a "quick" oven, from thirty-five to forty-five seconds is "moderate," 
and from forty-five to sixty seconds is "slow." ^ Sixty seconds is a 
good oven to begin with for large fruit cakes. All systematic house- 
keepers will hail the day when some enterprising person shall in- 
vent a stove or range witli a thermometer attached to the oven, so 
that the heat may bo regulated accurately and intelligently. A good 
t€st for baking sponge cake is to place a piece of white paper in the 
oven and let it brown. If it browns, not chars, in ten minutes the 



68 CAKE-MAKING. 



oven is right for tlic cake. If necessary to move the cake while 
baking, do it ver}' gently. Do not open the oven*door until the cake 
has had time to form, and do not open it oftener than necessary, 
then l)c careful to close it quickly and gently, so as not to jar the 
cake. Be sure the outside door of the kitchen is closed so that no 
cold air may strike it. If the oven bakes too liard on the bottom, 

_ place the grate under the pan ; if too hot on top, set 

Iwllflili^W ^ pie-pan of water on the top grate. If one side bakes 

"^^Siil^ ^^^^^'^ ^^^^^'^ ^'^^® ^^^^^^'^ '^"^^ ^'^^'2/ gently. Be careful 
f^tiut'pu,,. not to remove from the oven until done ; te.'^t thor- 
oughhj before removing, for if the cooler air strikes it before 
it is done it is certain to fall. Allow about thirty minutes 
for each inch of thickness in a <iuick oven, and more time 
in a slow one. Test with a broom-splint or knitting-needle, 
and if the dough does not adhere, it is done. .Settling away from 
the pan a little, and stopping its "singing,'' are other indications that 
the cake is ready to leave the oven. When removed, set the cake, 
while in the pan, on an inverted sieve to cool ; this secures a free 
circulation of air all around it, and cools it evenly. It should re- 
main in the pan at least fifteen minutes after taking from the oven, 
and it is better to leave the "cap" on until the cake is carefully re- 
moved from the pan and set away, always right side up. A tin chest 
or stone jar is best to keep it in. Coffee cake should be put away 
before it is cold, and so closely wrajiped in a large napkin that the 
aroma will not be lost. 

The patent pan with perforated cover, illustrated, is highly 
recommended for baking cakes. C^^kes in fancy forms are baked 
in molds, the Turkish-head mold being most commonly used. 
When baking in a brick oven the mold is used with a cover, but 
in a stove oven the cover is removed and a stem placed inside, but 
can be used without stem. If mold when inverted has not suffi- 
cient base (most molds are more or less conical) to stand in oven, 
make a pastel)oard l)ox which Avill support it, as heat sufficient to 
bake any delicate or fruit cake will not burn tlie pasteboard. Many 
persons frost the bottom of cake instead of tlie top, as it presents 
a smooth surface. 

SI'ONCK AND WHITK CAKES. 

The good quality of all delicate cake, especially of sponge-cake, 



CAKi: MAKING. 



69 




depends very inucli upon its being made with fresh eggs. It can 
never 1)0 perfect unless pulverized sugar is used. It must be quickly 
])ut together, beaten with rapidity, and l)aked in a 
rather quick oven, it is made "sticky'' and less 
light l»y being stirred long. There is no other cake 
so dei)end(')il ui>oucare and good judgment 
in baking ns sponge-cake. In making 
\white cake, if not convenient to use the 
yolks that arc^ left, they will keep for sevei-- 
i\\ dnys U t/toroif.ffhli/ bi'iitcn and set in a. 
cool place. The whites of eggs, when not 
used, must_not be beaten, but will keep for 
several davs if set in a cool place. Tlie 
white or yolk of a medium-sized egg weighs 
one oun(u'. a fact that it is convenient to know, as 
sometimes the white or yolic of one or more eggs 
is wanted from several that have bocin put away Dover Egg b-^uli-. 
togetluM'. Whenever it is necessary to cut a cake Avhile warm, 
do it with a warm knife. To prepare cocoa-nut, cut a hole 
througli the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw oflf the milk, 
pound tlie nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take 
out meat, and st>t the ])ieces in tlu^ heater or in a cool, open oven 
«v(M-night, or for a few hours, to dry, then grate : if all is not used, 
s]»rinkle with sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry 
place, and it will keep for weeks. If dessicated is used moisten 
with milk Ix'fore usinir. \ 




Almond, IlU'lvorn-iiut or Cocoa-)nit Cake. — One ])ound flour, 
lialf teaspoon salt, fourth ]>ound butter, pound sugar, tea-cup sour 
cream, four eggs, lemon flavor to taste, and a tcas])oon soda dissolv- 
<'d in two teaspoons hot water: mi.\: all thoroughly, grate in the 
white part of a co(M)a nut, or stir in a pint chop]»cd hickory-nuts, or 
n pint blanched almonds poimd(^d. 

Almond Cake. — ^ Blanch and ]>ound to a paste three ounces 
sweet and one ounce bitter almonds, shelled. To three-fourths 
])ound sugar gradually add yolks of twenty-four eggs and stir until 
light, then add the almond ])ulp, the juice and grated rind one lem- 
on, a pinch mace, and beat until it thickens. Beat whites six eggs 
to a firm froth, adding by pinches a tablespoon powdered sugar and 
stir it in, one-third at a time, with the above raixtuiv. Lastly add 



70 CAKE MAKING. 




four ounces flour well sifted with one ounce corn starch. Mix well, 
pour into round pans two inches thick, if it is to be iced, or into 
square pans one inch thick if intended for slicing, bake in moderate 
oven and turn out at once. 

Angel Cake. — Whites twelve eggs, one and one-half tumblers 
sifted powdered sugar, one tumbler sifted flour, one teaspoon each 
vanilla and cream tartar. Tlie tumblers for meas- 
uring should hold two and one-fourth gills. Beat 
c^ggs in a ])owl to as fine a froth as possible and add 
one-half tuml)ler sifted sugar, gradually beating in 
two tablespoons at a time, and stir into this mix- TT^^f^IkHC 
ture the teaspoon vanilla ; sift the cream tartar with the flour, then 
sift flour and remaining tumbler sugar together four times, and put 
with the first mixture with as little stirring as will mix and combine 
them thoroughly and smoothly. The dough should be very light 
and featliery. Test the oven by la>dng in it a piece of white paper, 
which should brown, not char, in ten minutes. A pan made express- 
ly for this purpose should be used, and can be ordered of any tinner. 
It should be about eight inches in diameter, three inches deep, with 
a funnel in the center two inches in diameter at the bottom tapering 
to an inch and a half at top, and be provided with legs half an inch 
high. May be smooth or fluted edges as preferred. Do not grease 
the pan, but line it with clean manilla paper kept for the purpose. 
Ba/ke forty minutes and do not open the oven for the first fifteen. It 
should rise to the top of the pan 1)ut may shrink a little. When done 
turn the pan upside down and let stand one hour, when if it does 
not drop out readily the edges may be carefully loosened Avath a 
knife. Ice the hottom with transparent glaze made as follows : Take 
one and one-half cups sifted powdered sugar, whites two eggs that 
have not been beaten, and as much cold w\ater as eggs ; stir very 
hard with a whisk or egg beater until perfectly smooth ; now add 
three-fourths cup of confectioner's sugar known as " XXX," and 
enough water to bring it to a smooth paste free from lumps, adding 
the sugar a little at a time and stirring constantly. Ice cake smoothly 
with this and set in a real hot oven for a second or two to harden. 
If preferred use boiled icing. Any cake pan jnay be used, l)ut it 
should be placed on a pie tin while bakiiag. It is well to cover 
with the paper cap, heretofore described, while baking. 

Apple Cake. — Soak two cups dried apples over night, in the 
morning drain and chop fine in chopping bowl ; add one cup mo- 
lasses and let it boil slowdy on back of stove three or four hours ; let 
it cool and add one and a half cups brown sugar, one cup butter, half 
cup sour milk, one teaspoon each cloves, allspice and cinnamon, one 
teaspoon soda, three eggs, three and one-half cups flour ; bake in two 
square tins, or one five-quart basin ; if baked in latter, bake slowly 
two hours. Very nice and will keep six months. 



CAKE MAKING. 71 



Black Cake. — One pound powdered white sugar, three-quarters 
y)Ound butter, pound sifted flour (brown or not as preferred), twelve 
eggs beaten separately, two pounds raisins stoned and part of them 
chopped, two of currants carefully cleaned, half pound citron cut in 
strips, quarter ounce each cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves mixed, wine- 
glass wine and one of brandy ; rub butter and sugar together, add 
yolks of eggs, part of flour, the s{)ice, and whites of eggs well beaten ; 
then add remainder of flour, and wine and brandy ; mix all thor- 
oughly togetber ; cover bottom and sides of a four-quart milk-pan 
with buttered white ])aper, put in a layer of the mixture, then a layer 
of the fruit (first dredging the fruit with Hour) until pan is filled up 
three or four inches. A small cup of Orleans molasses makes the 
cake blacker and more moist, Init for this it is not necessary to add 
more flour. Bake thi'oe and one-half or four hours in a slow oven. 
This is excellent. 

Black Cake. — Two cups }»rown sugar, one and one-half cups 
butter, six eggs beaten separately, three cupsflour (brown the flour), 
two tablespoons molasses, one of cinnamon, one teaspoon each mace 
and cloves, two cups sweet milk, two })ounds each raisins and cur- 
rants, a half pound citron, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar. 
Bake three hours. 

Bread Cake. — Three coffee-cups yeast dough, light enough to 
bake for bread, two and tM-o-thirds cups sugar, one cup butter, three 
eggs, one nutmeg ; put all together, and work with the hands until 
smooth as pound-cake. It is very important that all should be 
mixed very thoroughly with the light dough. Add raisins and as 
much fruit as desired, and let rise half an hour in the pans in which 
you bake. The oven should be about right for bread. This is easily 
jnade, and is quite as nice as common loaf-cake. I^ave out fruit 
and add from a half to a whole tablespoon caraway, coriander, card- 
nmon, or fennel seeds, or a mixture of all, and tliis recipe makes a 
nice Seed Cake. 

Bread Cake. — Two cups light bread dough, one and one-half 
cups sugar, half cup butter, three tablespoons sour milk in which has 
been dissolved half teaspoon soda, half a grated nutmeg, teaspoon 
cinnamon, cup raisins chopped a little and floured ; stir all Avell to- 
gether, adding fruit last ; let rise half an hour and bake in a mod- 
^•rate oven. 

Bride\'^ Cake. — Whites twelve eggs, three cups sugar, small cup 
butter, cup sweet milk, four small cups flour, half cup corn starch, 
wo teaspoons baking powder, lemon to taste. A perfect cake. Ad- 
ding a cup citron sliced thin and dusted with flour makes a beauti- 
ful Citro7i Cake. 

Bride Cake, — One pound each butter and sugar, one gill double 
cream, one-ludf pint brandy, one pound two ounces flour, two pounds 



72 CAKE MAKIX*;. 




zante currants, washed and picked, two pounds raisins, seeded and 
chopped, two ])ounds sultanas, washed, picked and dried, one and 
one-half pounds citron, cut into long, thin striY)S, two tablespoons 
cinnamon, tAvo grated nutmegs, one teaspoon mace, one tablespoon 
each powdered cloves, jjowdered allspice and orange flower water. 
Rub butter and sugar together until smooth ; whip whites sixteen 
eggs to stiff froth and stir them into \\n'. cream, one-third at a time, 
working until smooth ; mix flour with fruits and spices until all are 
evenly diflused and stir all together, adding the orange flower last. 
Beat the whole very lively, pour into long, square 
pans lined with l)uttcred paper, smooth over 
with wet knife blade, and bake in moderate oven 
three hours. If too hot at ])ottom jnit several 
folds of paper under pans, or cover Avith paper "^Bndu cake pan. 
if too hot at top. Do not turn out until cold. Rub with flour, wipe 
with cloth, ice with white of egg icing and finish with chocolate 
icing. M'ill keep for a year or more. If to be eaten within a Aveek 
or tAvo no brandy is needed. When jiropei'ly and carefully made, 
one of the richest and best. 

Buckei/e Cake. — One cup l»utter, tAvo of Avhite sugar, lour of 
sifted flour, five eggs l)eaten separately, one cup sour milk, teaspoon 
soda, pound seeded raisins cho]iped a little; beat the butter and 
sugar to a cream, add the yolks and milk, and stir in the flour Avith 
soda Avell mixed through it; then add the Avhites of eggs beaten to a 
stiff froth, and lastly the raisins di-edged Avith a little flour; (one- 
fourth i)ound sliced citron is a nice addition) ; bake one and one- 
half hours. Use coffee-cups to measure. This makes a cake for a 
six-quart pan, or tAvo large loaves, and is a veiy economical 3'et de- 
licious fruit cake. In making half the recii)e use three yolks and 
tAvo Avhites for the cake, reserving the extra Avhite for frosting. 

Caramel Cake. — One cup butter, tAvo of sugar, a scant cup milk, 
one and a half cups flour, cup cornstarch, Avhites seven eggs, three 
teaspoons baking poAvder in the flour; bake in a long pan. Take 
half pound l)roAvn sugar, scant quarter pound chocolate, half cu]) 
milk, ])utter size of an egg, tAvo teaspoons vanilla; mix thoroughly 
and cook as syrup until stiff enough to spread ; spread on cake and 
set in the oven to dry. 

Carolina Cake (^\'itllOUt eggs). — Rul) tAvo large tablespoons 
butter into one coffee-cui) poAvdered sugar, add one-half cup sAveet 
cream, one-half teaspoon soda, one and one-half cups flour ; bake 
quickly in small tins or gem-pans, and send to table Avarm. 

Charlotte Cachee Cake. — Cut a thiek loaf of sponge or other 
plain cake into five or six slices horizontally of uniform Avidth. Spread 
each slice Avith jelly, using first tart and then SAveet jelly if you have 
both, fit them together again in the loaf and ice all over Avith the 
Avhipped Avhites of five eggs and enough poAvdered sugar to make a 



CAKE-MAKING. 



stiff icing, adding the juice of one lemon. Set in slow oven for a few 
minutes to harden. A quick and easy way to prepare a fancy cake 
for tea Avhen company appears unexpectedly. 

Cheap Cake. — Beat two eggs in a cup and fill up 

with thick sour cream ; add one cup sugar, one and 

one-half cups iiour, one even teaspoon soda. Flavor .smaii cake lius 
to taste and bake in small pans. May be iced ahd marked in gold, 
as in directions for icing. 

Chocolate CaJi.e — One cup butter, three of brown sugar, one of 
sweet milk, four of flour, yolks seven eggs, nine tablespoons grated 
Baker's chocolate, three teaspoons baking powder. This may be 
l)aked as a layer cake, making a Avhite cake of whites of eggs, baking 
in layers and putting them together with frosting, alternating the 
hiyers. 

Chocolate Marhle Cale.- — Make a ])atter as for white cake, take 

. out one cup, add to it five tablespoons grated chocolate, moisten 

with milk and flavor with vanilla ; pour a layer of the white batter 

into the baking-pan, then drop the ciiocolate batter with a spoon in 

spots, and spread the remainder of the white batter over it. 

Clnchuiati Cake. — Pour over one ])ound fat salt pork, chopped 
fine and free from lean and rind, one pint boiling water ; let stand 
until nearly cold ; add two cups brown sugar, one of molasses, one 
tables})oon each cloves and nutmeg, and two of cinnamon, two 
pounds raisins, fourtli pound citron, half glass brandy, three tea- 
spoons baking powder, and seven cups sifted iiour. Bake slowly 
two and a half hours. This is excellent, and requires neither butter 
nor eggs. 

Citron Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four 
eggs, one cup milk, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, and 
pinch salt. After the above has been put in the pan, cut the citron 
thin and put into the cake endways, pushing chjwn until the batter 
covers it. This will prevent the citron falling to the bottom. 

Cocoa-nut Cake. — One cup butter, threeof sugar, one sweet milk, 
four and a half flour, four eggs Avith whites beaten to a stiff froth, a 
teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one grated cocoa-nut or one- 
fourth pound prepared eocoanut. 

Corn- Starch Cake. — Two coffee-cui)s ])ulverized sugar, three- 
fourths cup l)utter, cup corn starch dissolved in cup sweet milk, two 
cups flour, whites seven eggs, two teas}>()()ns cream tartar teasyjoon 
soda, or two teaspoons baking powder mixed thoroughly with flour ; 
cream butter and sugar, add starch and milk, then add Avhites and 
flour gradually until all is used. P"'lavor with lemon or rose. 

Coifee Cake. — Two cups brown sugar, one of butter, one of mo- 



74 CAKK-MAKING. 



lasses, one of strong coffee as prepared for the table, four eggs, one 
teaspoon saleratus, two each cinnamon and cloves, one of grated 
nutmeg, pound each raisins and currants, four cups flour. 

Coifee Cake. — One cup brown sugar, cup molasses, half cup 
butter, cup strong coffee, one egg or yolks of two, four even cups 
Hour, heaping teaspoon soda in the Hour, tablespoon cinnamon, tea- 
spoon cloves, two pounds raisins, fourth pound citron. Soften the 
butter, beat with the sugar, add the egg, spices, molasses, and coffee, 
then the flour, and lastly the fruit dredged with a little flour. Bake 
one hour in moderate oven, or make in two small loaves which will 
bake in a short time. This may be made v.-ithout the egg. 

Delicate Cake. — Three cups sifted flour, two of sugar, three- 
fourths cup sweet milk, whites of six eggs, half cup butter, teaspoon 
cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. Flavor with lemon. Good and 
easily made. 

Delicate Cake. — Cream one-half pound butter with one pound 
powdered sugar, add whites sixteen eggs beaten stiff, half a nutmeg 
grated, and one teaspoon rose water. Stir Avell together and add 
gradually one pound sifted flour. Bake at once in moderate oven. 

Epgless Cake. — One and a half teacups sugar, one of sour milk, 
three (level) of sifted flour, half cup butter, teaspoon soda, half tea- 
spoon cinnamon, half teaspoon grated nutmeg, cup raisins chopped 
and well floured. 

JSggless (Jake (Plain). — One cup sugar, half cup butter, half 
f up sweet milk, two cups flour, one tablespoon cream tartar, half 
teaspoon soda. 

Everlasting Cake. — Beat together the yolks of six eggs and 
three-fourths pint white sugar, add one and a half pints blanched 
and shelled almonds, half pound sHced citron well floured, and the 
whipped whites with one and a half pints sifted flour ; pour one and 
a half inches thick in well-greased dripping pans, bake in a quick 
oven, and, when done, cut slices one inch thick across the cake, turn 
each sHce over on its side, return to oven and bake a short time. 
When cold place in a tin box. These will keep a year and a half or 
more. 

Election Cah'. — Five pounds sifted flour, two of butter, two of 
sugar, three gills distillery yeast, or twice the quantity of home 
brewed, four eggs, gill each wine and brandy, one quart sweet milk, 
half an ounce of nutmeg, two pounds raisins, one of citron ; rub but- 
ter and flour together very fine, add half the sugar, then the yeast 
and half the milk (hot in winter, blood-warm in summer), then add 
eggs, then remainder of milk and the wine ; beat well and let rise in a 
warm place all night ; in the morning beat a long time, adding brandy, 
sugar, spice, and fruit well floured, and allow to rise again very light, 



CAKE-MAKING. 75 



after which put in cake pans and let rise ton or fifteen minutes ; have 
the oven about as hot as for bread. This cake "svill keep any length of 
time. For raised cakes use potato yeast if fresh made ; it is always 
a perfect success. This recipe is over one hundred years old. 

Feather Cake. — One cup white sugar, one teaspoon melted but- 
ter, one egg, two-thirds cup milk, two cups sifted flour, two tea- 
spoons cream tartar and one of soda sifted in Hour. Flavor with 
lemon. Delicious and cheap. 

Fig CaJce. — Two cups sugar, one small cup butter, one cup 
>weet milk, three and one-half cups flour, whites eight eggs beaten 
stiiF, two teaspoons baking powder, one pound figs split ; put in a 
layer of batter and then one cif figs, and so on until all is used. 

Choice Fig Cake. — A large cup butter, two and a half of sugar, 
one of sweet milk, three ])ints Hour with three teaspoons baking pow- 
der, whites sixteen eggs, a pound and a quarter figs well floured and 
cut in strips like citron ; no flavoring. 

Marbled Fig Cake. — Light part : one cup sugar, one-third cup 
butter, one-third cup sweet milk, four eggs, whites only, one and one- 
half teaspoons baking powder, one and one-half cups flour. Dark 
part : one-half cup brown sugar, one-third cup butter, one-third cup 
milk, one teaspoon baking powder, one cup flour, four egg-yolks and 
one whole egg, one teaspoon allspice, one teaspoon cinnamon, one 
pound figs sliced ; put in a layer of the dark with figs on top, then a 
layer of the light, and so on till all is used, in a deep cake-pan. 

Fruit Cake. — One cup butter, one of brown sugar, half pint mo- 
lasses, two eggs, cup sour milk, teaspoon soda, pound each flour and 
(turrants, one and a half pound raisins. Flavor to taste. This has 
been thoroughly tested and is a great favorite. 

Fruit Cake. — Twelve eggs, one and a half pounds each of but- 
ter, sugar^and flour, two pounds eaeh raisins and currants, one pound 
" " citron, one half pint molasses, one ounce each 

nutmeg, mace and cloves, one and a half glasses 

'}c\\y (grape is best), one-fourth pint each wine 

~TuM cakf. ' and brandy, more flour if needed. Put dough in 

pans, set in steamer, taking care that tlie cover is made to fit very 
tight ; if necessary, put cloth under the lid and shut it down on it, 
taking care that it does not touch the cake, or lay several thicknesses 
of cloth over the lid. Steam two hours and bake one hour. 

Fruit Loaf Cake. — One cup butter, two brown sugar, one New 
Orleans molasses, one sweet milk, three eggs, five cups sifted flour, 
two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, teaspoon soda in the milk, 
tablespoon cinnamon, one nutmeg, one pound each raisins and cur- 
rants, quarter pound citron (citron may be omitted, and half the 




"6 CAKE-MAKIXG. 



quantity of raisins and currants will do). Put flour in a large crock, 
mix well with cream tartar, make a well in the center, put in other 
ingredients, having warmed the butter and molasses a little ; mix 
well together with the hands, putting in the fruit last after it has 
been floured ; bake two hours in a moderate oven. This will make 
two common sized loaves. 

Fruit Cake. — One pound each brown sugar, butter, eggs and 
flo\ir, two each raisins and currants, half pound citron, a nutmeg, 
tablespoon cloves, one of allspice, half pint brandy, and two tea- 
spoons baking powder. After baking, while yet warm, jjour over 
cake a half pint wine. This makes the cake delicious. 

ExcelleMt Fruit Cake. — One and a half i)ounds raisins, one 
and a fourth pounds currants, three-fourths pound citron, pound 
each butter and sugar, one and one-fourth pounds flour, ten eggs, 
two tablespoons lemon, two teaspoons yeast ]>owder; mix a fourth 
pound of the flour in the fruit, 

German Fruit Cake. — Sift one pound flour into pan in a heai> 
and make a hole in the top ; in this put half teaspoon salt, one tea- 
spoon cinnamon, twelve ounces butter, and two ounces pulverized 
sugar. Mix and add yolks of eight eggs and a little cold water, 
leaving it a stifl" dough ; wa-ap it in a clean cloth, and set in a cool 
place fur an hour. In the summer it ought to be put on ice. This 
can be used for a variety of layer cakes. Roll out some of the 
dough al>out quarter of an inch thick, cut it round and put it on 
])iece white paper cut to flt ; cut a strip of dough an inch wide, and 
stand it up around the edge, and take a strip of white paper and 
paste around the cake and to the ])aper under it so as to keep it in 
shape. Into this dish of dough put enough apricot marmalade to 
cover the bottom, over this put a layer of dough cut in little bis- 
cuits, then a layer of preserved cherries, then another layer of little 
biscuits. Chop two ounces beef's marrow flne, and cover over the 
top ; put it on a tin carefully, and set in a slow oven. While this is 
baking mix yolks of six eggs, four ounces sugar, one-half riuart thick 
cream, and a cup cherry juice, and put over cake Avhen half bak- 
ed. When it is well settled put back in the oven again and let re- 
main till done. Turn on a large plate and serve while warm. 

Jam Fruit Cake. — One and a half cups brown sugar, two of 
flour, one each butter and cho))ped raisins, three eggs, three table- 
spoons sour milk, half teaspoon soda, half cup blackberry jam. 
This is excellent as Avell as economical. 

Pepper Fruit Cake. — Yolks seven eggs, two cups brown sugar, 
one cup each molasses, butter and sour cream, one teaspoon each 
soda and pepper, one teaspoon each cinnamon, allspice and cloves, 
one quart flour, one pound raisins, h«lf pound currants, fomih 



CAKE-MAKINO. 



pound citron, wine gla^^s 1)ran(ly. See directions for preparing fruit 
in cake preface. 

Pound Fruit Cake. — One pound eadi Hour. In-own sugar, citron, 
raisins, currants, candied fruits (figs and dates) mixed nuts, (shell- 
ed), butter, twelve eggs, one teaspoon each ground cloves and cin- 
namon, one pint best brandy, one cuj) molasses. Brown the flour, 
chop nuts slightly and add wliites of eggs, l)eaten separately, last. 
Bake four to five hours in slow oven. 

Scotch Fruit Cake. — A cup Initter. two of white sugar, four of 
sifted flour, three-fourths cup sour milk, half teaspoon soda, nine 
eggs beaten separately, one pound raisins, half pound currants, a 
fourth pound citron ; cream the butter and sugar, add milk graclu- 
ally, then beaten yolks of eggs, and lastly, while stirring in flour, 
the whites well whipped. Flavor with one teaspoon each lemon and 
vanilla extract, and have raisins chopped a little, or, better still, 
seeded, and citron sliced thin. Wash and dry currants before using, 
and flour all fruit slightly. In ])utting cake in pan, place flrst a 
thin layer of cake, then .'sprinkle in some of the three kinds of fruit, 
then a layer of cake, and so on, always finishing off Avith a thin 
layer of cake. Bake in a moderate oxon iov two hours. Tested by 
many and has never failed. 

Groom\s Cake.— Ton eggs )>oaten separately, one ]M)und each 
butter, M'hite sugar, and flour, two of almonds lilanched and chop- 
ped fine, one of seeded raisins, half pound citron, shaved fine ; the 
juice and rind of one lemon may be added ; lieat ))utter to a cream, 
add sugar gradually, then the well-beaten yolks; stir all till verv 
light, and add the chopped almonds; l)eat the Avhites stiff and add 
gently with the flour; take a little more flour and sprinkle over the 
raisins and citron, then put in the cake-pan, first a layer of cake 
batter, then a layer of raisins and citron, then cake, and so on till 
all is used, finishing off with a layer of cake. Bake in a moderate 
oven two hours. 

Ilard-Moaei/ Cake. — Gold part : Yolks of eiglit eggs, scant cup 
butter, two of sugar, four of flour, one of sour milk, teaspoon soda, 
tablespoon corn starch ; flavor with lemon and vanilla. Silver part ; 
Two cups sugar, one of liutter, four (scant) of flour, one of sour 
milk, teaspoon soda, tablespoon corn starch, whites eight eggs ; 
flavor with almond or peach. Put in pan, alternately, one spoon 
each gold and silver. 

Ilaj/es Cake. — One cup sugar, half cup l)utter, three eggs beaten 
well together, level teaspoon soda stirred in half cup sour inilk, two 
small cups flour; flavor M'ith lemon, pour in small dripping-pan, 
bake half an hour, and cut in squares. 

JFi<'kory-Nu,t Cake. — Two cups sugar, one of milk, two-tliirds 



CAKE-MAKING. 



cup butter, three of flour, three eggs, two teaspoons baking powder, 
a cup nut-kernels cut fine. Tried, and not found wanting. Without 
nuts makes a good layer cake for any filling. 

Hlchory-nut Cake. — A cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, 
one of sweet milk, whites of seven and yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon 
soda, two of cream tartar, one pint hickory-nut meats rolled and 
sprinkled with flour : beat whites to stiff" froth. Rich and excellent. 

Huckleherry Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, three cups 
flour, five eggs, one cup sweet milk, one teaspoon soda, dissolved in 
hot water, one teaspoon each of nutmeg and cinnamon, one quart 
berries, dredged well with flour. Stir them in carefully. Bake in 
loaf 

Ladi/s Cake. — One-half cup butter, one and a half of sugar, 
two of flour, nearly one of sweet milk, half teaspoon soda, one of 
cream tartar, whites four eggs well beaten ; flavor with peach or al- 
mond. 

Yelloio Lady'^s Cake. — One and a half cups flour, one of sugar, 
half cup each butter and sweet milk, teaspoon soda, two teaspoons 
cream tartar, yolks four eggs, teaspoon vanilla. 

Lemon Cake. — One pound each flour and sugar, three-fourths 
pound butter, seven eggs, juice of one and rind of two lemons. The 
sugar, butter and yolks of eggs must be beaten a long time, adding 
by degrees the flour, and the whites of eggs last. A tumbler and a 
half sliced citron may be added. This keeps well 

Loaf Cake. — Two cups sugar and one of butter beaten to a 
cream, three eggs, the whites beaten separately, three cups flour with 
one teaspoon cream tartar stirred in, yolks of the eggs stirred well 
with the sugar and butter ; now add two cups more flour with one 
teaepoon cream tartar, one cup sweet milk and the whites of the 
eggs, and then stir again ; add one nutmeg, one pound raisins or 
currants dredged with flour, one teaspoon soda dissolved in four 
tablespoons water. This makes two nice loaves, and is excellent. 

French L^oaf Cake. — Five cups sugar, three of butter two of 
milk, ten of flour, six eggs, three nutmegs, pound seeded raisins, a 
grated lemon, small teaspoon soda, two-thirds cup Orleans molasses. 

Old-Fas7iioned Loaf Cake. — Three pounds (three quarts sifted 
and well heaped) flour, one and a fourth pounds (a rounded pint of 
soft) butter, one and three-fourths pounds (one quart) sugar, five 
gills new milk, half pint yeast, three eggs, two pounds raisins (half 
pound citron may be added, but most excellent without), teivspoon 



CAK?>MAKING. '^ 



Roda, fourth pint molasses, two teaspoons each cinn amon and nut- 
meg. Scald the milk, cool to blood-warm, add ^^^BiBi 
the yeast, then the flour, to which all the but- Jf "iiiP'''^^^^^^^^ 
ter and half the sugar have been added ; th<'n ^^^^^^^^^W 
mix together, and let rise until light. It is ^fe^^^^^^***^ 
}->ett.^r to set this sponge overnight, and in the unf-cke _ 

morning add the other ingredients (flouring raisms) and let rise 
again. When light, All baking pans and let rise again. Bake in a 
moderate oven. This recipe makes three large loaves, and is a stand- 
ard, cconomi<'al loaf-cake. 

Ifarhle Cake.—T^^xV part: Yolks three eggs, one-half cup but- 
ter, one cup brown sugar, one tablespoon molasses, one-half cup 
sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one and one-third cups flour, spices to 
taste and one cup raisins and currants, or leave out spices and fruit 
and use three tablespoons grated chocolate. Light part: Whites 
three eggs, one-half cup corn starch, one cup white sugar, one-halt 
cup each sweet milk and butter, one cup flour, one teaspoon baking 
powder. Alternate the light and dark parts by spoonfuls or layers, 
or bpth, in tin before baking. 

3£arhle ^<ry^'<'.— White part : Whites seven eggs, three cups white 
sugar, one of butter, one of sour milk, four of flour, sifted and heap- 
ing, one teaspoon soda ; flavor to taste. Dark part : Yolks seven eggs, 
three cups brown sugar, one of butter, one of sour milk, four of flour, 
sifted and heaping, one tablespoon each cinnamon, allspice and 
cloves, one t^^aspoon soda ; put in pans a spoonful of white part 
and then of dark, and so on. Bake an hour and a quarter. TJse 
cofiee-cups to measure. This Avill make one large and one medium 
cake. The white and dark parts are alternated, either by putting in 
a spoonful of white, then of dark, or a layer of white and then of 
dark part, being careful that the cake may be nicely "marbleized." 

One-Egg Oake.—OnO) cup butter, one and a half cups sugar, 
three of flour, one of sweet milk, one egg, teaspoiui soda, two tea- 
spoons cream tartar in the flour, cup raisins chopped fine. 

Orange Cake.—Tv:o cups sugar, four eggs, leaving out whites of 
two, half cup butter, one of water, two teaspoons baking powder, 
three cups flour, juice, grated rind, and pulp of one orange ; use the 
remaining whites for frosting the top. 

Pltim Cake.— Cut one pound butter in small pieces and work 

^^^,^^^^ into two and one-half pounds flour with half a 

^^^^^^1 nutmeg, grated, and two pounds currants, picked 

^■B^^Mjfc^ 3,nd waslied. Add one pound sugar and six 

'J BLj^^^g^ S^ yolks eggs rubbed together, one-half pint each 

Fruit Cake. "yeast and cream and work to a smooth batter. 

Pound one-half pound shelled and blanched almonds Avith a 

little rose water to a paste and add Avith one-fourth pound citron 



so CAKE-MAKING. 



and ono-fourth pound caiidicd orange and lemon peels, sliced and 
dredged. Let rise and bake in i)aper lined pans in moderate oven. 

Peanut Cake. — One-half cup butter, one and one-half cups 
milk, two and one-half cups flour, wliites four eggs, one-half tea- 
spoon cream tartar, one-quarter teasi>oon soda ; just before putting 
into oven sprinkle over top one cup peanuts broken into pieces. 

Poor-Man's Cake. — Three cu])s bread dough, two cups sugar, 
one of butter, two eggs, mix well, ])ut in spice to taste, and fruit if 
preferred. Let rise and bake in brisk oven. Do not use any flour. 

Citron Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar and flour, three- 
fourths pound ])utter, eight large or ten small eggs, one and one- 
fourth pounds citron finely shredded ; cream butter and sugar, add 
the yolks, then the flour and well-whipped whites ; put layer of bat- 
ter in cake-pan and s])rinkle thickly with citron, then another layer 
of batter, etc., till pan is filled. Bake slowly one and a half to two 
hours. 

Pyramid Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar, butter, and 
flour, ten eggs ; bake in a dripping-pan one inch in thickness and 
cut when cold into ])ieces three and a half inches long by two wide, 
or bake in sponge cake pans, and frost top and sides; form on the 
cake stand in ])yramid Ix'fore the icing is quite diy by laying first 
in a circle, five ])ieces Avith some space between them ; over the spaces 
between these lay five other pieces, gradually drawing in the column 
and crowning the top with a bouquet of flowers. 

White Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar and flour, half 
l>ound butter, whites sixteen eggs, teaspoon baking powder sifted 
thoroughly with flour; put in cool oven with gradual increase of 
beat. For boiled icing, three cu])s sugar boik'd in one of water until 
clear ; beat whites three eggs to very stiff froth and pour over them 
the boiling liquid, l)eating all the time for ten minutes ; frost while 
both cake and icing are warm. 

Rice Cake. — One pound each sugar and ground rice, half pound 
butter, nine eggs, rose-water to taste ; add a little salt, beat butter 
and sugar together, add rose-water, salt and eggs, lastly the rice; 
bake in shallow pans. 

Snow Cake. — Half cu]) l)utter, one of sugar, one and a half 
sifted flour, half cup sweet milk, whites four eggs, teaspoon baking 
powder ; flavor with lemon. 

Snoin Cake. — Beat one-half pound butter to a cream, stir in one- 
half pound granulated sugar and one pound arrowroot flour gradu- 
ally, locating steadily ; add whipped whites six eggs, and Ix-at well 
twenty minutes ; flavor to taste with essence almonds, vanilla or 
lemoii. Bake in moderate o^'en one to one and one-half hours. 



CAKE-MAKING. 



S\ 




WJ '^^f '^d^/ ^^^» >- 

S|ions;e Cake Pnn-. 



Spice Cake. (Without Eggs) — One heaping cup.sug<ar, one- 
half cup butter, one and one-lialf cups sour milk, one teasjjoon each 
cinnaninn, cloves and nutmeg, one cup fruit, one teaspoon soda; 
stir in Hour until it will just drop from the spoon. 

Spice Cake. — Three eggs, one cup butter, one cup brown sugar, 
four cups tiour, two teaspoons baking powder, one cup each molas- 
ses and milk, one teaspoon each extract nutmeg, cinnamon and 
ground cloves. 

Sponge Cake. — Beat to a cream four eggs and a large coffee-cup 
white sugar. ^ Sift two teaspoons baking powder with two cups flour, 
and stir this in carefully with sugar and eggs, then add two-thirds 
cup boiling water. Flavor to taste. Beat lightly together and bake 
in four-quart pan. The hot water makes it deliciously tender. 

Sponge Cake. — Three eggs, ' " '^ 

one and a half cups powdered 
sugar, two sifted flour, two tea- 
spoons cream tartar, half cup 
cold water, teaspoon soda, grat- 
<'d rind and half the juice one 
lemon ; bake in dripping-pan, 
or in sponge cake pans given in cut. 

Spo/ige Cake. — Twelve eggs, one and one-third pints pulverized 
sugar, one and a half ])ints flour, measured before sifting, small tea- 
spoon salt, hea|>ing teaspoon baking powder, essence of lemon for 
flavor; beat whites to very stiff" froth and add sugar; beat yolks, 
strain and add them to whites and sugar; put three tablesjpoons 
cold water in l)owl where yolks Avere beaten, stir until all yolk is taken 
up, and add batter and beat the whole thoroughly ; mix "baking pow- 
der and salt in the flour and add last, stirring in small quantities at 
a time ; bake one lutur in a six-([uart pan in a moderate oven. This 
makes one very large cake. By weight use one pound pulverized 
sugar and three-fourths pound flour. 

Sponge Cake. — One pound each sug.ir and flour, ten eggs; stir 
yolks of eggs and sugar till perfeetly light ; beat whites and add 
them Avith the flour after beating together lightly ; flavor with lemon. 
Three teaspoons baking powder in the flour will add to its lightness, 
but it never fails without. Bake in a moderate oven. 

Lemon Sponge Cake. — One lemon, three gills flour, one pint 
sugar, eight eggs; beat yolks of eggs thoroughly, add sugar little by 
little, and the grated rind of the lemon ; beat whites of eggs to stiff 
froth, and add them alternately Avith the flour, beating very gently 
and Itarely long enough to mix Avell ; Avhen part of the flour is iii, 
add the lemon juice. Bake twenty minutes, in small loaves. 



S2 



CAKE-MAKIXG. 



Philadelphia Sponge Cake. — Weigh ingredients and prepare 
baking pans,then pour one gill boiling water on three-quarters pound 
sugar in a bowl ; stir it, cover and let stand on the table until yolkvS 
of six eggs are beaten, add the grated rind of half a lemon to the 
eggs ; froth whites and pour yolks on them, beat thoroughly togeth- 
er, then add the syrup (sugar and water) and beat ten minutes, or 
till thick, sift in half pound flour, mixing very gently with a kiiife, 
add juice of half a lemon, pour in pans and bake from twenty to 
thirty minutes. The syrup is sometimes left on the range, and when 
boiling is poured into the eggs which are then beaten until cold. 
The eggs thicken more quickly in this way, and the cake is excellent, 
but perhaps not quite as moist as that made with cold syrup. This 
cake has the advantage of keeping much longer than ordinary 
sponge cake. 

White Sponge Cake. — J^ift together one cup powdered sugar, 
one-half cup each flour and corn starch, one teaspoon baking pow- 
der. Have ready the wliites of eight eggs beaten to stiff froth and 
one ta])lespoon rose extract, mix thoroughly and bake in square tins 
about two inches deep in quick oven. >^erve cut in small squares. 

Ten Minute Cake. — One-fourth pound butter, a little less than a 
pound flour, the same of sugar, six eggs beaten separately ; flavor 
with mace and bake in muffin rings. 

Tildeii Cake. — One cup butter, two of pulverized sugar, one of 
sweet milk, three of flour, half cup corn starch, four eggs, two tea- 
s])oons each baking powder and lemon extract. Adding a quarter 
pound citron sliced fine makes an economical Citron Cake, using 
extra half cup starch. Either cake is very easily made, and when 
well beaten is almost a white cake. Is very delicious and never fails. 

Tin- Wedding Cake. — Rub one cup butter and three of sugar to 
a cream ; add one cup milk, four of flour, five eggs, one teaspoon 
cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, one-fourth pound citron. This 
makes two loaves. 

Waferwrlon Cake.—\yhhe part : Tavo cups white sugar, one 
each of butter and sweet milk, three and a half of flour, whites eight 
eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda dissolved in a little 
warm wafer. Red ]>art : One cup red sugar, half cu[) butter, third 
cup swe<'t milk, two cups fiovn-, whites four eggs, teaspoon cream 
tartar, half teaspoon soaa, 'Hip raisins; be careful to keep the red 
part around the tube of tlie ])an and the white around the edge. It 
requires two persons to fill the pan. This is a very attractive and 
ornamental cake. 

White Cake. — One cnp butter, two of sugar, one of sweet milk, 
three of flour, whites five eggs, two teaspoons leaking powder. Easily 
made, and vci-v good. A verv handsome cake mav 1)e made from 



CAKE-MAKING. 



this recipe by coloring one-fourth of the dough with a small tea- 
spoon cochineal dissolved in a little hot water and strained through 
a piece of muslin. When the batter is put into the tin, marble with 
this red dough. Ice it when baked. 

Whi2)ped- Cream Cake.— One cup sugar, two eggs, two table- 
spoons softened butter and four of milk ; beat all well together ; add 
a cup of {lour in which has been mixed teaspoon cream tartar and 
half teaspoon soda. Bake in rather small square dripping-pan. 
When cake is cool have ready a half pint sweet cream whipped to a 
stiff froth, SAveeten and flavor to taste, spread over cake and serve 
while fresh. The cream will froth easier to be made cold by setting 
on ice before whipping. 

White Perfection 6'aA'^.— Three cups sugar, one of butter, one 
of milk, three of flour, one of corn starch, whites twelve eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, and one of 
soda in half the milk ; dissolve the corn starch in the rest of the 
milk, and add it to the sugar and butter well beaten together, then 
the milk and soda, and the flour and whites of eggs. This cake is 
rightly named "Perfection." 

German Yeast 6'rtA'£'.— Take one pound melted butter, put into 
a glazed dish and beat for half an hour, until it foams and seems 
twice the quantity ; take the yolks of eighteen eggs, and twelve 
ounces warmed flour ; stir one yolk and one large spoon flour into 
the batter, at a time, till all are used up. Add two tablespoons sugar 
one teaspoon salt, four or five tablespoons good yeast. Stir these 
well together, then add the whites of six eggs, well beaten ; grease 
the mold with fresh butter, and sprinkle a little flour in it ; then put 
the dough in, and cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise. Let 
it rise till an inch from the top of the mold, then put in a slow oven 
and bake for an hour. It must not be moved in the oven, while 
baking, as it Avill make holloAV places in the cake, and will be im- 
perfect vv'hen turned out. When it is done, turn out of the mold 
carefully and sprinkle with sugar while hot. 

Yule Cake. — Cream two and one-half cups butter and three 
cups sugar ; adcl ten beaten eggs, four cups flour Avith tAvo teaspoons 
baking poAvder, four cups currants, tAVo-thirds cup chopped citron, 
one teaspoon grated nutmeg, and quarter teaspoon poAvdered cloves. 
Bake in a Avell-greased, paper-lined tin, in a moderate oven two and 
one-half hours ; or bake in patty pans and frost Avith chocolate icing. 

Zephyr C«^<?.— Wash the salt out of nearly a quarter pound 
butter ; add a quarter pound poAvdered sugar and three Avell-beaten 
eggs, a teaspoon rosewater, and sifted flour enough to make a thin 
batter ; stir with a wooden spoon till batter is perfectly smooth and 
so light that it Avill break when it falls against the sides of the mix- 
ing crock ; fill Avell-buttered patty pans nearly half full Avith the bat- 
ter, and bake in quick oven ; serve Avarm. Excellent tea cakes. 



8-4 LAYER CAKES. 



Zufolos. — Sift together teu-cup powdered sugar, rounded coffee- 
cup flour and teaspoon cream tartar, add to the well-frothed whites 
of eight eggs and stir without heating till well mixed. Fill mer- 
ingue hag and press out in finger shapes or in drops, or bake in lady- 
linger pan as described or in patty pans. The white fingers are 
nice for charlotte-russe ; or make a batter of tliree eggs, one and a 
half cups sugar, two of flour, half ciip water, teaspoon cream tartar 
and half of soda, bake in fancy-shaped patty pans and ice Avith 
chocolate icing, either plain, boiled or caramel ; or cut any kind of 
plain cake into small squares, cut- small piece from center of each 
square, and fill cavity with some kind of marmalade or jelly, re- 
i:)lace part that was removed, and cover Avitli icing. The small sponge 
cakes may be iced with Avhite icing and Avhen cold "marked in gold" 
by dipping a very small bristle brush in the yolk of an egg and 
Avriting a Avord or name upon them. 

T_jayer Cake^?. 

In making layer cake batter follow directions given in cake pref- 
ace, always remembering to sift the flour before measuring. In bak- 
ing it is important to thoroughly grease the tins- — to make 
it emi^hatic Ave Avill say, tlioroughly grease Avith lard or 
American cooking oil, and then grease again (it is not al- 
Avays necessary to line tins for layer cakes Avith paper) — I 
and aftin- using rub ofl' Avith a coarse towel, taking care Quart Mcas 
that th(\v are perfectly free from all particles of cake, grease and fill 
again, thus obA'iating the necessity of Avashing CA'ery time they are 
filled. A much hotter fire is required for layer tlian for loaf cakes; 
a got^d test for the (^cn is to put in a piece of white ])aper, Avhich 
should be l^rowned in one minute, wlien the OA^en is ready for the 
cake. If jelly is used to spread between the layers it is a good plan 
to beat it smoothly and spread it before the cakes arc quite cool. In 
'i)uilding," an inverted jelly tin furnishes a perfectly 
level surface on Avhich to lay and spread the cake, and 
it may be alloAved to remain on it until perfectly cold 
when it sliould lie set away in a cake box in a cool place. In put- 
ting th(? layi'i's togetlier many place them bottom side up, because of 
the smoother surface afforded. In cutting it is better to first make 
a round hole in the centiM- Avith a knife or tin tube about an inch and 
a quarter in diameter, wliicli prevents the edge of the cake from 
ernml)ling Avlien cut. In making the custard or "filling" for layer 
cake, place in a custard kettle or tin pail and set in l)oiling Avater to 
cook, tlius nvfiiding all dang(n' of burninc:. 




LAYER CAKES. 



OO 




To lilaiicli alinoiKls, pour boiling water over them, let boil a mo- 
ment, drain and throw them into cold water, slip off the 
i^kins and pound. To prepare cocoa-nut see cake preface. 
AVhen dessicatecl cocoa-nut is used for filling moisten Avith a 
little milk. The cut of grater given illustrates an inexpen- 
sive article iicc(>ssarv in ev(>rv kitchen, used for grating co- 
coa-nuts, lemons, oranges and otlifn- llavoring, cheese, horse- 
radish, etc. 

Tlic "Ctcrnian'' cakes may be l)aked in jelly tins. 
— > •i ' » '^ < — ' 

Almoiul Cake. — Two cups sugar, three-fourths cup butter, one 
of sweet milk, two of Hour, and one of corn starch Avell mixed, 
whites of six eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, one tea- 
spo<^>n soda in the milk ; cream the butter and sugar, add milk grad- 
ually, then the whites of eggs together with the Hour, and bake in 
jelly tins. To put between layers, take two pounds almonds, blanch 
and pound tine in a mortar (or a cloth will do), beat Avhites and 
yolks of two eggs together lightly, add a cup and a half sugar, then 
the almonds, with one tablespoon vanilla. 

Almond Cream Cake. — On beaten wliitcs of ten eggs, sift one 
and a half goblets pulverized sugar, and a goblet flour through 
which has been stirred a hea])ing teas])oon cream tartar ; stir very 
gentl}'- and do not beat it ; bake in jelly pans. For creani, take a 
half pint sweet cream, yolks of three eggs, tablespoon pulverized 
sugar, teaspoon cornstarch ; dissolve starch smoothly in a little milk, 
l)eat 5'olks and sugar together with this, boil the cream, and stir 
these ingredients in as for any cream-cake filling, only )nake a little 
thicker; blanch and chop fine a half pound almonds and stir into 
the cream. Put together like jelly cake Avhile icing is soft, and stick 
in a half pound almonds split in two. ^ 

Apple ( *ake.—Ono cuj) butter, two of sugar, three of floui-, four 
eggs, half cup milk, tlu'ce teas])oons l:)aking })ou'der ; Itake in j(dly 
tins. For filling, stir together a grated lemon, a lai'ge grated tart 
apple, an egg, and a cup sugar, and boil four minutes. A very ex- 
cellent cake. 

German Apple Cake. — Pare twenty-four good ap])les and cut 
eaeli into six eipial pieces. Take some dough made as for German 
Fruit cake and I'oU out enough for two layers, cut round, turn U]» 
some for margin, ]>lace on white ])aper and paste band of paper 
around to keep in sha])e. Put the apples on the dough in rows, set 
in a quick oven and bake till light brown. While hot sprinkle with 
sugar and cinnamon. 

Banana Cake. — Six eggs, one cup butter, two cui)s ea(di sugar, 
flour and corn stai'ch, one cup sweet milk, thi'ee teaspoons leaking 



86 LAYER CAKES. 



powder. Bake in layers, and while warm place sliced bananas be- 
tween. Ice and eat while fresh. Enough for two cakes. 

Boston Cream PuiFs. — Put half pint milk and two-thirds cup 
butter over the fire ; when it comes to a boil stir in one and one-half 
cups sifted flour and continue stirring until smooth and the mixture 
leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from tlie fire and beat thor- 
oughly into it five eggs, first stirred together lightly to break up and 
mix the whites and yolks, but do not beat them before adding to the 
Hour and milk. Drop on cold greased tins, a tablespoon in a place, 
leaving space between to prevent touching, brush over with tlie yolk 
of an egg mixed with a little water, and sprinkle with granulated 
sugar. Bake thirty-one minutes in a medium oven (test same as for 
angel cake), or until all moisture is thoroughly dried out, lest they 
may fall. When done they will be hollow. Let them get cold, then 
make an opening in the side and fill the space with whipped cream or 
custard. The neatest way to put in tlie filling is to inject it through 
the meringue bag, but a spoon may be used. For the Avhipped 
cream, ten ounces powdered sugar, a quart of cream ; whip up stiff' 
and fiavor with one tablespoon vanilla, or juice of one orange or grat- 
ed peel dissolved in a little hot water and strained oft". For custard fil- 
ling, take one pint milk, place one-half in a tin pail and set in boiling 
water ; reserve from the other half two tablespoons to mix with eggs, 
and into the rest, while cold, mix one cup of flour until smooth ; when 
the milkis hot pour in the flour and stir until thicker than boiled cus- 
tard, then beat well together the two tablespoons milk, two eggs, one 
cup granulated sugar, a level tablespoon butter, and a teaspoon vanilla 
or lemon ; add gradually, and continue stirring briskly until so thick 
that when cold it will drop, not pour, from the spoon. The puffs 
may be kept on hand. Make the cream or custard fresh, and fill as 
many as are wanted. 

Bucke]/e Cream Puifs. — Five eggs, whites and yolks beaten 
separately, one and a half cups each white sugar and sifted flour, two 
teaspoons baking powder in the flour ; bake in tea-cups, filling about 
half full. The cream is prepared by placing a small tin pail contain- 
ing a pint sweet milk in a kettle of boiling water; beat whites and 
yolks of two eggs separately ; stir in milk while boiling, a half tea- 
cup sugar, a large tablespoon corn starch dissolved in a little sweet 
milk, then the beaten yolks and a piece of butter the size t»f a large 
walnut ; flavor Avith lemon, or vanilla. When done, cut the cakes 
open, put in a spoonful of the cream, j^lace together again, roll in the 
whites and then in coarse granulated sugar. 

Cake loith Maple Frosting. — Three eggs, one cup white 
sugar, two tablespoons sweet milk, one heaping cup flour with two 
teaspoons baking powder in it. Filling : One cup maple syrup 
boiled to wax ; beat white of one egg to stiff" froth, and pour on the 
syrup, stirring briskly. Very nice. 



LAYK}! CAKES. 87 



Caramel Cak^. — « le and a half cups sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, half cup milk, two and a fourth cupB tlour, three eggs, three 
and a half heaping teaspoons baking powder, or a small teaspoon 
soda, and two teasj^oons (U-eam tartar ; bake in jelly tins. Make 
caramel as follows : Butter size of an egg, pint brown sugar, half 
cup milk or water, half cake chocolate ; boil twenty minutes (or un- 
til thick enough) and ])our over cakes while warm, piling the layers 
one upon the other. For frosting for top of cake, take whites of two 
eggs, one and a half cups sugar, teaspoon vanilla, three heaping tea- 
spoons grated chocolate. 

Chocolate Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, one of milk, live eggs, 
leaving out whites of three, four cups sifted tlour, two teaspoons 
baking powder or one small teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar 
in the tlour ; flavor with vanilla and bake in four layers. For tilling 
and icing, take whites of three eggs beaten stiff, one and a half ciips 
powdered sugar, si.K tablespoons grated chocolate. Or, use one of 
the reci} I'S for boiled frosting given under "Directions for Frosting," 
(adding the chocolate) which is considered by many to be mu(di su- 
perior, especially for chocolate cakes. The boiled frosting without 
eggs is economical, and the cake may be made with one or two, 
using a little more flour. 

Delicious Chocolate Cake. — A\'liit('S of eight eggs, two cups sugar, 
one of butter, three full cups flour, one of sweet milk, three teaspoons 
baking powder ; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the sugar, and 
l)eat until light; add the milk, then the Hour and l)eaten whites. 
When well beaten divide into equal parts, and into half grate a cake 
sweet chocolate. Bake in layers, spread. with custard, and alternate 
the whit« and dark cakes. For custard for the cake, add a table- 
spoon butter to one pint milk and let come to a boil; stir in two 
eggs l)€aten with one cuj) sugar, add two teaspoons corn starch dis- 
solved in a little milk ; or, leave the chocolate out of the cake, and use 
boiled frosting with si.K tablespoons grated cho(M>late, instead of the 
custard, icing the top also with the mixture. 

Chocolate Filling. — Two ovmces chocolate cooked over hot 
water ^vith one cup water and one ounce sugar, h^prcad betw(^n 
layers. 

German (Jhocolafe Cake. — Mix four ounces each fresh l»utter 
and line sugar and yolks of twelve eggs beaten to a froth ; then add 
«'ight ounces each ])owdered almonds and gi-ated vanilla (diocolate ; 
stir well together, then put in two ounces sifted flovn- and last the 
well whipped whites twelve eggs, ('ut two ])ieces of white paper 
round, leaving a margin to turn up around tlie edge. .Make the cake 
equally thick on both pieces of j)aper, set in a slow oven and bake ; 
when cold put a layer of preserved cheriics on one and lay the other 
cake on top of it ; trim the edges smooth and ice with chocolate icing. 



88 LAYER CAKES. 



made by dissolving six ounces sugar in water and adding six ounces 
cliocolate; stir constantly; let cook till it will follow the spoon 
when taken out or a skin has formed upon it. You can trim the 
cake with white icing in fancy designs and garnish the plate Avith 
fruit and white icing. 

Choeolate Eclairs. — Make paste after i-ecipe i'or "Boston Cream 
Puffs," shape into cakes about four inches long and one and one- 
half wide, placing them on cold greased tins about two inches apart; 
bake as puffs. As they come from the oven dip tlie tops of the 
eclairs into an icing made by stirring over the fire two squares scraped 
chocolate with five tables]-»oons powdered sugar and three of boil- 
ing water. When cold make an opening in the side and fill Avith 
this custard; Heat to boiling one and one-half cups milk in steam 
l)oiler, beat together two-thirds cup sugar, one-fourth cup flour, two 
eggs, and one-fourth teaspoon salt, and stir the mixture into the 
boiling milk. Cook fifteen minutes, stirring often ; when cold flavor 
with vanilla extract; if a chocolate flavor is preferred in the cream 
add one teaspoon dissolved chocolate. 

Cocoa-nut Cake. — To the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add two 
.cu])s powdered white sugar, three-fourths cup butter, one of sweet 
milk, three and a half of flour, one level teasjioon soda and two of 
f-ream tartar, whites of four eggs well beaten ; bake in four layers. For 
icing, grate one cocoa-nut,beat wliites of two eggs, and add one tea-cuj') 
powdered sugar; mix thoroughly with the grated cocoa-nut, and 
spread evenly on the layers of cake when they are cold. 

Cream Cake. — One cup sugar, yolks of two eggs and white of one, 
one-half cup sweet milk, one and one-half cups flour, butter size of 
an egg, three teaspoons baking ]»owder ; bake in layers. Cream for 
filling: One-half cup sweet milk, or water, three teaspoons powdered 
sugar, one tablespf)on corn starch. Boil until thick, remove from 
stove, and when partially cool stir in the whipped white of one egg; 
flavor with vanilla and spread between layers. Economical, deli- 
cious, and easily made. 

French Cream Cake. — Three eggs, one cup granulated sugar, 
one and a half cups flour, two taljlespoons cold water, teaspoon leak- 
ing powder. This is enough for two cakes baked in pie-pans, to bo 
split Avhile warm, spreading tlie hot custard between them, or for 
four cakes baked in jelly-pans, with the hot custard spread between 
them, the latter being the preferable plan. For custard, boil ilearly 
one i)int sweet milk, mix two tablespoons corn starch with half a 
teacup SAveet milk, add two Avell-beaten eggs ; Avhen milk has boiled 
add nearly a cup sugar, and add gradually the corn starcli and 
eggs, stirring briskly ; add a half cup butter, stirring until dissoh'ed, 
flavor AA'ith one teaspoon vanilla, and spread between cakes AA'hile 
hot. This cake can be used as a pudding by pouring over each piece 
a spoonful of the custard that is left. 



I.AYKK CAKES. * 89 



Golden Creain Cake — Cveani one cup sugar and one-fourth cup 
butter, add half cup sweet milk, and the well-beaten whites three eggs, 
one and a half cu]^s flour, with half a teaspoon soda, and a teaspoon 
cream tartar sifted with it ; bake in three deep jelly-tins; beat very 
light yolks of two eggs, one cup sugar, and two tablespoons rich sweet 
cream, flavor with vanilla, and spread on cakes ; or to yolks add one 
and a half tablespoons corn starch, three-quarters cup sweet milk 
and small piece butter ; sweeten and flavor to taste, cook in a cus- 
tard-kettle till thick, let cool, and then spread. 

Peach Cream Cake. — Bake tbi-ee sheets of sponge cake as for 
jelly cake ; cut peaches in thin slices, prepare cream by whipping, 
sweetening and adding llavor of vanilla if desired, put layers of 
peaches between the sheets of cake, pour cream over each layer and 
over the top. This may also be made with ]'ii)e strawberries, banana 
or other fruit. 

Strairherr// Cream Cake. — One cup sugar, two eggs, one-half 
cup sweet milk, three tablespoons melted butter, uue and one-half 
cups flour, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons cream tartar ; bake in 
layers. Cream : Take one-half cup thick sweet cream, beat till stifi', 
add two tablespoons sugar, have one large cup of lierries well sweet- 
ened, add to cream and spread your cake ; or, mash a sufficient quan- 
tity of berries, thicken with confectioner's (fine powdered) sugar and 
spread between layers. 

Vienna Cream Cake. — Four eggs, one cup sugar, one cup 
flour, one tablespoon melted butter, three teaspoons baking powde;*, 
one teaspoon lemon ; Ijake in jelly-tins. Cream : One cup thick 
sour cream, one cup sugar, one cup hickory-nut or walnut meats 
rolled fine; stir all together and put on stove, boil five minutes, 
spread between the layers ; ice the top ; delicious. 

Whipped Cream, Cake. — Make a white sponge cake, bake half 
an inch thick in jelly pans and let them get perfectly cold ; take a 
pint thickest sweet cream, l)eat until it looks like ice-cream, make 
very sweet and flavor with vanilla; blanch and chop a pound al- 
monds, stir into cream and put very thick between each layer. This 
is the queen of all cakes. 

Dominoes — ]Make cake after rccii)e given for Lemon SpongeCake, 
bake in long pie-tins (two such tins will make twelve dominoes, and 
>i no more are required the rest of the batter may l)e Itaked in a loaf). 
The batter in the pie-tins should not be more than one-third of an 
inch deep ; spread it evenly ami b-dce in a quick oven. Have a 
brown ])aper nearly twice the size of the cake on the table, and the 
moment one of the cakes comt>s from the oven turn it upside down 
in the center of the paper, spread it with a thin layer of currant jelly 
and lay the other cake on it U]iside down, cut it Avith a hot, sharp 
knife lengthM'ise, directly throuirh the center, then divide it across in 



90 • LAYKH CAKES. 



six equal parts, pii^h them with the knife about an inch apart and 
ice them with ordinary white icing, putting a large dessert-spoonful 
on every piece ; the heat of the cake will soften it and with a little 
help the edges and sides will be smoothly covered. All of the icing 
that runs over on the paper may be carefully taken up and used 
again. It must then dry, which it will do very quickly. Make a 
liorn of stiff white paper about five inches long, one and a half inches 
across the top and one-eighth of an inch at the other end ; put in 
a dessert-spoon of dark chocolate icing, close the horn at the top, 
and pressing out the icing from the small opening, draw a line of it 
across the center of every cake, and then make spots like those on 
ivory dominoes ; keep the horn supplied with icing. Or use a 
meringue bag if you have one. 

Effgless Jelly Cake. — Two cups flour, two teaspoons each cream 
tartar and soda, evenly mixed with flour; one cup each sweet milk 
and sugar, and one large spoon butter or lard. Beat all together 
and bake in a quick oven. An excellent cheap jelly cake. 

F\q Cake. — Two cups sugar, one cup each butter and milk, 
three of flour, two teaspoons baking powder sifted with flour, whites 
of eight eggs. Bake in layers. Make an icing of whites of two eggs and 
half pound sugar, and mix with it one pound eacli fig.s, blanched al- 
monds and filberts chopped fine and spread between layers ; or cut 
half pound figs fine and boil until soft with one cup sugar and half 
cup water, and use for filling. The cake may be more economically 
made by using yolks of five eggs and whites of three for layers, re- 
wrving whites of two for icing. 

Fig Cake. — Silver part : Two cups sugar, two-thirds cup but- 
ter, not quite two-thirds cup sweet milk, whites of eight eggs, three 
heaping teaspoons baking powder thoroughly sifted with three cups 
flour ; stir sugar and butter to a cream, add milk and flour, and 
last Avhites of eggs. Gold part : One cup sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, half cup sweet milk, one and a half teaspoons baking pow- 
der sifted in a little more than oneandahalf cups flour, yolks of seven 
eggs thoroughly beaten, and one whole egg, one teaspoon allspice, 
and cinnamon until it tastes ; bake the white in two long pic-tins. 
Put half the gold in a pie-tin, and lay on one pound halved figs 
(previously sifted over with flour), so that they will just touch each 
other, put on the rest of the gold and bake. Put the cakes together 
wdth frosting while warm, the gold between the white ones, and cover 
with frosting. 

Hard Times Cake. — Half cup butter, two of sugar, one of sour 
cream, three of flour, three eggs, half teaspoon soda ; bake in layers 
and spread with jelly. 

HickoTy-N\d Custard Cake. — ("ream one pound sugar and half 
pound butter : add five eggs beaten separately, one cup sweet milk, 



LAYER CAKES. 91 



one pound flour, three teaspoons baking powder, flavor with lemon, 
and bake in jelly-pans. For custard, place one pint milk in a tin 
pail and set in boiling water ; add a tablespoon corn starch dissolv- 
ed in a little milk, two eggs, one-half cup sugar, two cups chopped 
hickory-nut meats, well mixed together, to the boiling milk ; stir, and 
put between the layers of the cake, while both cake and custard are 
warm. This is excellent. 

Ice- Cream Cake. — One-fourth pound each butter and powdered 
sugar, half pint milk, half pound flour, six eggs, one glass wine, one 
nutmeg; bake quickly in iron gem-pans. They rise light with hol- 
low center. When cold, cut a round hole in top (as you would 
"plug" a melon), till with ice-cream just l)efore serving, so that it 
will not have time to melt. 

Jelly Roll. — Beat twelve eggs and one pound pulverized sugar 
together very lightly, then stir in three-fourths pound flour, making 
batter as light as for sponge cake, and thin 

enough to spread nicely when poured ; make ^ j |!-j^||^^;^ 

uj) as quickly as possible. Have shallow (^^^^&^^i^^^^. 
tin pans prepared (about twelve by eigh- xj ^^"' ^ ^^■■^^^^"' 
teen inches and an inch deep) by lining ""^"^Su^^ST 
with thin brown paper, using no grease on pan or paper ; pour in 
batter, spread out with a knife as thin as possible (about half an inch 
thick), and bake in solid oven. When done, remove from oven, let 
cool a few minutes, and while still warm, but not hot, turn out of 
pan upside down. With a brush or soft cloth wet in cold water 
brush over the paper and pull it off; spread cake thin with jelly and 
roll it up, being careful to place the outer edge of roll against some- 
thing so that it will not unroll until cold. Sprinkle with powdered 
sugar and serve. If baked in pans such as are described above, the 
recipe will make two rolls, each twelve inches long, which should be 
cut in two, making four rolls. Use no baking powder as it makes 
the cake too brittle. Many use none in sponge cake. The paper 
lining should be larger than pan, to lift out the cake by taking hold 
of the projecting edges. This never fails. 

Jelly Roll. — Cream one cup sugar with one tablespoon butter, 
and add three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one cup flour 
and one teaspoon baking powder ; bake carefully in largo square pan 
lined with buttered paper, spread the under side with jelly, and roll 
while hot, folding in clean towel or paper to keep in place. Eco- 
nomical and good. For Chocolate Roll use this filling. One cup 
powdered sugar, half cup grated chocolate, one egg, nearly one- 
half cup milk or water, boil steadily until thick as jelly ; let it cool 
before your cake is ready. 

Lemoti Jelly Cake. — Two eggs, one cup sugar, one-third cup 
butter, one-half cup milk, two cups sifted flour, a heaping teaspoon 
baking powder ; bake in layers. Jelly : Two-thirds cup water, one 



92 



LAYER CAKES. 



cnp sugar, juice and grated rind one lonion ; let boil and stir in two 
Avell-beaten eggs. When cold spread between layers. The top may 
be iced, but delicious Avithout. 

Lemon Cake. — One and one-half cups sugar, one butter, two 
and one-half flour, five eggs beaten separately, four teaspoons sweet 
milk, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. For jelly : Take 
cofiCee-cup sugar, two tablespoons butter, two eggs and the juice of 
two lemons ; beat all together and l)oil until the consistency of jelly. 
For Orange Cake use oranges instead of lemons. For Plne-ajjple 
Cake spread the layers witli grated pine-aj)ple sprinkled with sugar; 
and a nice ornament of a })ine-apple is described iix Charlotte Jivsse 
recipe. 

Lemon Filling. — Grate rind of one lemon and pound well in a 
mortar with one ounce sugar ; rub into this with the })estle one egg 
and juice of one lemon and enough "XXX " sugar to make a nice 
smootli paste. 

One and one-eighth pound of flour, one of pow- 
dered sugar, ten eggs ; beat eggs and sugar as 
light as for sponge cake ; sift in with flour 
one teaspoon baking powder and stir slowly ; 
use the meringue bag described in confection- 
i ery for shaping the cakes ; jjress and run the 
Plate of i,a,i.v Fingers. dougli out qulcklv througli tlic tubc into a pan 



Jjadg Fingers.- 





lined with light ])rown paper (not buttered), making each about a 
finger long and about as thick as a lead 
pencil, being careful not to get them too 
Avide. Sprinkle with granulated sugar, 
hake in a quick oven, and when cool wet 
the under side of the paper with a brusli, 
remove and stick tlie fingers together L...i.r Finjicr i-a,.. 

back to l)ack. The ])ag, when made of ticking, will be useful in mak- 
ing macaroons and other small cakes. 

Metropolitan Cake.— T^yo cups sugar, one of butter, one of milk, 
nearly four cups flour, whites eight eggs, three teaspoons baking 
poAvder, flavor with lemon. Take a little more than three-fiftlis ol" 
this mixture in three jelly-tins, add to the remaining batter one ta- 
blespoon ground allspice, one and a half taV)les})oons cinnamon, tea- 
spoon cloves, fourth pound eacli of sliced citron and chopped raisins ; 
l)ake in two jelly-tins and ])Ut together Avith frosting, alternating 
dark and light, 

Minnehaha Cake. — One and a half cups granulated sugar, half 
cup butter stirred to a cream, AA'hites six eggs, or three Avhole eggs, 
two teaspoons cream tartar stirred iii two heaping cups sifted flour, 
one teaspoon soda in half cup sweet milk ; bake in three layers. 
For filling, take a cup sugar and a little Avater boiled together until 
it is brittle AA'hen dropped in cold Avater, remove from stove and stir 



LAYER CAKES. 



93 



quicklvinto a well l)c-atrn wliito of an egg; add to tips a eiip of 
.stoned raisin.< chopped fine, or a cup of cliopped liiekory-niit meats, 
and plaee bet wen layers and over tlie top. A universal favorite. 

NeapolHan, Cake (Yellow, Pink. White and Brown).— Yel- 
low : Two cups powdered suear creamed whh one cup butter, five 
e«'gs, volks and whites beaten separately, one-half cup nnlk, three 
cups prepared flour, a little nutmeg. Pink and ^^'hite : One-half 
pound butter creamed with one ])OUnd powdered sugar, wlnt<'S ten 
eggs whipp(^d stifTf, and one pound prepared Hour ; divide this batter 
int^o two e({ual p(-»rtions, leave one white and color the other Avith a 
very little pre|)ared cochineal. Use carefully, as a few drops too 
much win ruin the color. Brown: One-fourth cup butter creamed 
with one cup po\vd(>red sugar, add three eggs beaten lightly, two 
tablespoons cream, one heaiung cup prepared flour, and two table- 
spoons vanilla chocolate grated and ru])l)ed smooth in cream ; })ake 
in layers, the above (juantitv making three of each color. Half as 
mucii will b(> sutlicient for a familv cake, but for a largo supper or 
church ''social)le" use tlic whole recii)e. Filling— Yellow Jind 
BroAvn : Two cups milk, two tabl(>spoons corn starch wet with railk, 
two esijs. two cups powdered sugar ; heat the milk to boiling, stir in 
the sugar and corn starch, cook a few minutes and put in the eggs, 
boilina; until thick. Divide the custard into two parts, and stir into 
one two tablespoons grated chocolate, and into the other a teaspoon 
bitter almond. White : Whii) into the stiffened whites of tliree eggs 
one heai)ing cup powdered sugar, and the juice and half tlie grated 
])eel of one lemon. I'se a laver of the brown. cake as a foundation 
for the pile spread with yellow custard, then the pink coated with 
chocolate, then the white and yellow layers separated with the white 
frosting, oi' ]uit together in aiiy order fancied. Very elaborate and 
nice, 

OraiK/c r«/.v;.— Beat whites of three and yolks of five eggs sep- 
aratelv : <-ream two cu])s sugar and a half cu]* butter ; add one-half 
cup cold water, two and one-half cups flour, two teaspoons baking 
powder and the grated rind and piice of one orange (saving one ta- 
blespoon juice for frosting). Bake in layers and put together with 
this frosting : Whites of two eggs, two cups sugar and the table- 
spoon orange juice. Frost top also. 

Orange Custard Cake.— One and one-half cups sugar, one cup 
butter, two and one-half cups Hour, five well beaten eggs,_ four tea- 
spoons sweet milk, two teaspoons baking poAvder. Bake in layers. 
Forfillimr: Two wlude oranges grated Avitli peel of one; one cup 
suo-ar. two tablespoons butter, two eggs ; beat well together and boil 
until it thickens, stirring to keep it from l)urning on the bottom. 

Omn//e Cake.— Two cups sugar, half cup butter, three and a 
half cu])s 'sifted Hour, half cup sweet milk, three eggs beaten sepa- 
ratelv. three teaspoons baking powder mixed in flour; bake in jelly- 



94 LAYKR CAKKS. 



pans. For jelly, take the juice and grated rind of two oranges, two 
tablespoons cold water, two cups sugar ; set in a pot of boiling 
water and when scalding hot stir in the yolks of two well beaten 
eggs, and just before taking from the fire stir in the white of one egg 
slightly beaten, and when cold put between the layers of cake ; frost 
the top with the other egg. 

Ribho7i Cake. — Two and a half cups sugar, one of butter, one 
sweet milk, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, four cups 
Hour, four eggs ; reseiTe a third of this mixture and bake the rest m 
two loaves of the same size ; add to third reserved, one cup each 
raisins and currants, fourth pound citron, two tablespoons molasses, 
teaspoon each of all kinds of spice; bake in a tin the same size as 
other loaves ; put the three loaves together with a little icing or cur- 
rant jelly, placing the fruit loaf in the middle ; frost the top and 
sides. 

Cream Bose Cake. — Stir into a cup sweet cream with a pinch 
soda, one cup butter creamed with three cups powdered sugar ; whip 
with egg beater five minutes, or until like whipped cream ; flavor 
Avith vanilla and add by turns five cups prepared flour and tlie frosted 
whites of ten eggs. Color a fine pink with cochineal, which is per- 
fectly harmless and which your druggist will prepare for you in 
either powdered or liquid form. If in the former, moisten before 
using with a very little water. Strain and stir in drop by drop until 
you get the right tint. Bake in four layers. For filling, take one 
and one-half cocoa-nuts pared and grated, whites four eggs whisked 
stiff, one and one-half cups powdered sugar, two teaspoons rose water. 
Heap the cake after it is filled with this mixture, neating in more 
sugar for the purpose. Very pretty. 

Snow Cake. — Beat one cup butter to a cream, add one and. a 
half cups flour and stir very thoroughly together ; then add one cup 
corn starch and one cup sweet milk in which three teaspoons baking 
powder have been dissolved ; last, add whites eight eggs and two 
cups sugar well beaten together ; flavor to taste, bake in sheets and 
put together with icing. For Cocoa-nut Cream Cake use this filling : 
Whip one cup cream, one-half cupsugar, one cup cocoa-nut ; spread 
between layers and on top ; flavor to taste. 

Cream Sponge Cake. — Cream yolks often eggs with one pound 
sugar, add the whipped whites, sift in six ounces flour and flavor 
with one teaspoon ahnond extract. Have ready this filling : Mix 
four eggs, four ounces sugar, two ounces flour, and stir smoothly 
into one quart milk. Cook until thick, stirring well ; take from the 
stove, add one teaspoon extract nectarine, and let cool before spread- 
ing the cake, which must be baked in layers^ twenty to thirty min- 
utes, covered with a paper to prevent scorching. 

Thanksgiving Cake. — Make batter as for cocoa-nut cake (page 
72). Rake four layers in jelly-tins ; make frosting of whites of three 



LAYKPv CAKKS. 95 



«ggs, three teaspoons baking powder and three-fourtlis pound pul- 
verized sugar; with frosting for first hiyer mix 
rolled hickorv-nut meats, with that for second lay- 
■er mix fine-f^lioed figs, for third with blanched al- 
monds chojtpcd, and on the top spread the plain 
frosting, and grate cocoa-nut over thickly. 

Vaniti/ Cake. — One and a half cups sugar, half cup butter, half 
<up sweet milk, one and a half cups flour, half cup corn starch, tea- 
spoon baking powder, whites six eggs ; bake in four cakes, putting 
frosting betAveen and on top. 

Velvet Cake. — Two cups sugar, six eggs, leaving out the whites 
of three, one cup boiling hot water, two and one-half cups flour, one 
tablespoon bakmg powder in flour ; beat the yolks a little, add the 
sugar, and beat fifteen minutes ; add the three beaten whites, and the 
imp of boiling water just before the flour; flavor with a teaspoon 
lemon extract and bake in three layers, putting between them icing 
made by adding to the three whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
six dessert-sj^oons of jmlvcrized sugar to each egg, and lemon to 
flavor. 

White Fruit Cake. — To one cup butter beaten to a cream, add 
two of sugar, three of flour in which two teaspoons baking powder 
have been sifted, and the stifily beaten whites of six eggs. Bake in 
jelly-cake tins ; when done (while still hot) put between the layers 
this filling : Chop fine a c^uarter pound each of figs, seeded raisins, 
citron, preserved ginger and blanched almonds, and stir them into 
whites three eggs beaten stiff, a cup powdered sugar, and the juice 
of one lemon; frost the whole quickly. A most delicious cake. 

White Motintain Cake. — Two cups pulverized sugar, half cup 
hutter beaten to a cream ; add half cup sweet milk, two and a half 
€ups flour, two and a half teaspoons baking powder in the flour' 
whites eight eggs ; bake in jelly-tins and put together with icing 
made by boiling a half cup water and three cups sugar till thick ; 
pour it slowly over the well-beaten Avhites three eggs, and beat all 
together till cool. Beat before putting on each layer ; or use plain 
icing. Sprinkle each layer thickly with grated cocoa-nut, also sides 
and top, using two cocoa-nuts, and a handsome Cocoa-nut CaJceYfiW 
result. 



96 



COOKIES AXD JUMBLE?:. 



Xenophoii Cake. — One cup sugar, half each of liutter and milk, 
whites of four eggs, scant two cups flour, flavor with vanilla ; two 
teaspoons baking powder. Stir flour in last very lightly. Bake in 
layers and when cold spread with tins filling ; scant ])ound shelled 
almonds, blanched and pounded in a mortar (or a J)owl niay be used 
with the potato-masher), half cup thick sour cream, juice of half a 
lemon, make very sweet. Mix and let stand in cold place one hour 
before nsinff. Delicious but must l>e eaten the dav it is made. 



Cookies and Jumbles. 




Sift before measuring all flour used in mixing and rolling, and 
bake in a quick oven. A nice " finishing touch " can 1)0 given by 
sprinkling them with granulated sugar or seeds, and rolling over 
lightly with the rolling pin, then cutting out and press- 
ing a whole raisin in the c(Mih'r of each ; or, when done 
a very light bi'own, brush over while still hot witli a 
small bristle brush called a i)astvy brush, and kept for 
such purposes, or a soft bit of rag dipped in a thick 
syrup of sugar and water, or the roll glaze made of yolk of on(> egg, 
its bulk in water and ({uarter teaspoon sugar ; sprinkle with cui-rants, 

cocoa-nut, or any 
seed preferred, and 
return to the oven 
a moment. Seed 
cookies may be 
]nadel)y adding one 
tablespoon caraway 
seeds to any of the following recipes. Flour should never he used 
for any purpose Avithout sifting, so it is well to always have a large 
covered can or bucket full of sifted flour in the pantry. 

— — — ♦-"^M^— "^ — 

Bachelor'^s Bnttoris. — Mix two ounces butter, three of sugar, five 
of flour ; to this add two ounces sugar mixed with one egg ; flavor to 
taste. Roll in hand to size of a large nut, then roll in sugar, place 
on tins with buttered paper and bake lightly. 

Chocolate Cookies. — Three-fourths cake chocolate, two cups 
white sugar, one butter, one-half cuyi cold water, two eggs, one tea- 
ir^poon sotla, fiour to roll. To finish nicely ice the tops. 




rombiiuition fake Bour.l. 



COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 97 

Cream Cookies. — One cup each sour cream and sugar, one egg, 
one level teaspoon soda, nutmeg ; mix as soft as can be handled, roll 
thin and bake quickly. 

Eggless Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each milk and butter, 
half teaspoon each nutmeg and soda, flour to roll. 

Fruit Cookies. — Two cups sugar, half cup butter, cup sour 
cream, (or sour milk may be used with more butter), two cups 
chopped raisins, two eggs, two tablespoons cinnamon, one teaspoon 
each nutmeg, cloves, and soda. Bake same as other cookies. 

Oraham Cookies. — Shave two cups maple sugar, and stir with 
one of butter, one egg, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda; mix 
with graham flour ; use white flour on molding board. Brown or 
white sugar may be used instead of maple. 

Good Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each butter and sour cream 
or milk, three eggs, one teaspoon soda ; mix soft, roll thin, sift gran- 
ulated sugar over them, and gently roll it in. 

Hickory-Nut Cookies. — Two cups sugar, two eggs, half cup 
melted butter, six tablespoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, hall 
teaspoon soda, flour to roll and one cup chopped meats stirred in the 
dough. 

Nutmeg Cookies. — Two cups white sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, two-thirds cup sour milk, nutmeg or caraway seed for flavor, 
two eggs, half teaspoon soda, and six cups flour, or enough to roll. 
Roll thin, and bake in quick oven. 

North German Christmas Cookies^ — Six pounds flour, two 
each of sugar, butter, and molasses, one teaspoon saleratus dissolved 
in rose water, arrack, or spirits, a few cloves and cinna- 
mon pounded together, one pound raisins pounded in 
a mortar, half pound citron chopped fine. Warm mo- 
lasses, sugar and butter slightly, and gradually stir in 
the flour ; knead well and roll out, and cut in various cookie cauer?. 
shapes. One-half the dough may be flavored with anise or carda- 
mon, omitting the raisins. This recipe will make a large quantitv, 
and they are pretty to hang upon the tree during Christmas week, 
and to pass in baskets to holiday callers. This is the hona iide 
Christmas cookie. 

Seed Cookies. — Cream one-half pound butter with three-fourths 
pound sugar, and sift in one and one-half pounds flour, adding one 
well-beaten egg, a half gill rose water, and a pinch soda dissolved in 
tablespoon warm water, knead well, roll into a sheet, cut with cutter 
having scalloped edge, and bake in buttered pan fifteen minutes. 
Use fennel, coriander, caraway, or cardamon seeds, or any mixture 
of them preferred. 




98 COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 



Scotch Coohies. — Half cup molasses, one and a half of sugar, 
one and a quarter of butter (or half butter and half lard), two eggs, tea- 
spoon each soda, cloves and allspice, two of cinnamon, and flour 
to roll ; roll thin, cut and bake ; or a richer recipe is two and a half 
pounds sugar, one and a fourth of butter, three of flour, five egga, 
half pint molasses and one ounce soda mixed with it ; roll very thin, 
cut with cake cutter, place in pan, giving each cake plenty of room, 
and put in oven ; vrhen half done brush over top with glaze made 
with yolk of an egg, as much water as there is egg, and quarter of 
teaspoon sugar; return to oven and bake. 

Whortleberry Soft Cookies. — One cup sugar, one and a half of 
milk, with half teaspoon soda dissolved in it, tablespoon butter, one 
quart berries, teaspoon cream tartar, and flour to make a stiff" batter ; 
bake in small cake tins. 

Crescents. — Rub eight ounces each rice flour and sugar togeth- 
er, and add eight eggs mixed to a cream after the yolks and whites 
have been beaten separately ; stir all together smoothly, spread thin- 
ly on buttered pai)er, and bake twenty minutes ; then cut with a 
crescent cutter into cakes, ice each one, and set in the oven for a 
minute to dry. Vary the icing if liked by coloring portions with 
cochineal and saffron, icing some of the crescents pink, some yellow 
and the effect is very pretty. 

Jeio Calces. — Three-fourths pound each butter and sugar, one 
pound flour, two eggs, two teaspoons baking powder; roll thin, cut 
out, wash over top with an egg beaten in half cup cream, sprinkle 
with pound finely chopped almonds mixed with pound fine granu- 
lated sugar, and bake in cniick oven . 

Jxiiribles. — One and a half cups white sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, three eggs, three tablespoons sweet milk, half teaspoon soda 
and one of cream tartar ; mix with sufficient flour to roll ; roll and 
sprinkle with sugar ; cut out and bake. 

Cocoa-nut Jumbles. — Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, 
half a grated cocoa-nut ; make just stiff" enough to roll out ; roll thin. 

Lemon Jumbles. — One egg, one cup sugar, half cup butter, three 
teaspoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two 
small lemons, juice of both and grated rind of one ; mix rather stiff, 
roll, and cut with cake cutter. 

Lemon Snaps. — A large cup sugar, two-thirds cup butter, half 
teaspoon soda dissolved in two teaspoons hot water, flour enough to 
roll thin ; flavor with lemon, 

Pepper-nuts. — One pound sugar, five eggs, half pound butter, 
half cup milk, two teaspoons baking powder, flour enoygh to roll. 

Warranted Scotch " Short Bread."" — Wash all particles of salt 



CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 



99 



from one pound best butter and cream with scant one-half pound 
sugar. Dry and slightly warm two pounds flour and mix gradually 
with the hand with the butter and sugar. The longer it is kneaded 
the better it will be. Lay on molding-board and press with the hand 
into sheets half an inch thick. Do not roll, as rolling toughens it. 
Cut into any desired shapes, prick or stamp a pattern on top, and 
bake in moderate oven until a fine yellow brown. 

Spring erhes. — One pound sugar, lour eggs beaten light and 
thick, add pound flour into which teaspoon baking powder has been 
eifted and roll into little balls, press with a small glass plate or salt 
cellar, let stand until morning and bake in quick oven. Or, roll and 
cut out with any of the cookie cutters illustrated ; let rise and bake 
as above. 



Sand Tarts. — Two cups sugar, one 
of butter, three of flour, two eggs, leaving 
out the white of one ; roll out thin and cut 
in square cakes with a knife ; spread the 
white of egg on top, sprinkle with cinna- 
mon and sugar, and press a blanched 
almond or raisin in the center, or cut 
and ornament with stamps similar to 
those in cut 




Cookie Stamps 



Crullers and Douaiiiiiits. 



To cook these properly the fat should be of the right heat. 
When hot enough it will cease to bubble and be perfectly still, and a 
blue smoke Avill arise ; try with a bit of the batter and if the heat is 
right the dough will rise in a few seconds to the top and occasion a 
bubbling in the fat, the cake will swell and the under side quickly 
become brown. Clarified drippings of roast meat or the American 
Cooking Oil just introduced, and made of refined Cotton Seed Oil, are 
more wholesome to fry them in than lard. A good suet may be prepared 
as follows for those who are sensible enough not to like greasy dough- 
nuts, or who Hebraically oppose lard. Use only beef suet, which is 
quite as cheap, cleanly and healthy. Buy from the meat markets, 
speaking before-hand and securing nice, whole, clean leaves, which 
cut up in small pieces, put into a dinner-pot, which will hold well 
about ten pounds. Put in a pint of water, and after the first hour stir 
frequently ; it takes about three hours with a good heat to render it. 
Drain through a coarse towel, and if the suet is good it will require 
but little squeezing and leave but little scrap or cracklings. Cool in 




100 CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 

pans or jars, then cover and put in a cool place, and you have an ele- 
ment into which, when well heated, you can drop 
the twisted goodies with the assurance that they 
will not only be " done brown," but that the)-- will 
emerge with a flavor and grain that will commend 
them to the favor of an epicure. Doughnuts 
thus cooked are more digestible and of better 
flavor than if cooked in lard, and the most 
Doughaut Twisu. fastldlous wlll not need to peel them before 

eating. Make the dough as soft as it can he handled., always sifting 
the flour ; if cut about half an inch thick, five to eight minutes will 
be time enough to cook, but it is better to break one open as a test. 
When done drain well in a skimmer and place in a colander or on 
brown paper, which absorbs the fat. If to be sifted over with sugar, 
use powdered sugar, and sprinkle over them while hot. The use of 
eggs prevents the dough from absorbing the fat. Doughnuts should 
be watched closely while frying, and the fire must be regulated very 
carefully. When you have finished frying, cut a potato in slices and 
put in the fat to clarify it, place the kettle away until the fat 
" settles," strain into an earthen pot kept for this purpose, and set 
in a cool place. The sediment remaining in the bottom of the kettle 
may be used for soap-grease. Fry in an iron kettle, the common 
skillet being too shallow for the purpose. Do not eat doughnuts be- 
tween April and November. Crullers are better the day after they 
are made. If lard is not fresh and sweet, slice a raw potato, and fry 
before putting in the cakes. 

Crullers. — One egg, one tablespoon melted butter, three table- 
spoons sugar, make very stiff" with flour, roll rather thin ; they will 
fry very quickly ; take them from the fat well drained and dip them 
in sugar. 

Crullers. — Six tablespoons each melted butter and sugar, six 
eggs and flour to roll. 

Crullers. — One pound butter, one and one-half pounds powder- 
ed sugar, twelve eggs, one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon 
each nutmeg and mace, flour to make stiff" dough. Roll to a half 
inch in thickness ; cut out and fry. 

Crullers. — Two coffee-cups sugar, one of sweet milk, three eggs, 
a heaping tablespoon butter, three teaspoons baking powder mixed 
with six cups flour, half a nutmeg, and a level teaspoon cinnamon. 
Beat eggs, sugar and butter together, add milk, spices, and flour ; put 
another cup flour on molding board, turn the dough out on it, 



CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 



101 



and knead until stiff enough to roll out to a quarter inch thick ; 
cut in squares, make three or four long incesions in each square, 
lift by taking alternate strips between the finger and thumb, drop 
into hot lard, and cook like doughnuts, or they may be shaped as 
in Figure 1, or given the much more elaborate shape of Figure 3. 



1 






To give them the shape of Fig. 3, first cut the paste, as in Fig. 2 ; 
hold the first line with thumb and finger of the left hand, then 
with the right hand slip the second line under the first, then the 
third under the second, and so on until they are all slipped under ; 
pinch the two ends together, and the cruller will be in form of Fig. 3. 

Doughnuts. — One cup each sugar and milk, butter size of an 
egg, one large teaspoon baking powder, nutmeg or other spice to 
taste ; knead and roll out soft as possible. An egg is often added. 

Creavi Doughnuts. — Beat one cup each sour cream 
(or sour milk with tablespoon butter), cup sugar and 
two eggs together, add level teaspoon soda, a little salt, 
spices if wished, and flour enough to roll and cut out 
easily. When partly cool roll in white sugar. Doughnut cutter. 

Corn Meal Doughnuts. — A tea-cup and a half boiling milk 
poured over two tea-cups meal ; when cool add two cups flour, one 
of butter, one and one-half of sugar, three eggs, flavor with nutmeg 
or cinnamon ; let rise till very light ; roll about half an inch thick, 
cut in diamond shape, and boil in hot lard. 

French Doughnuts. — One cup butter, three of white sugar, one 
pint sweet milk, four eggs, teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar and 
juice of one lemon. 

Raised Doughnuts. — Peel and boil four good sized potatoes ; 
mash fine and pour boiling water over them until consistency of 
gruel ; let cool, add a yeast cake and a little flour, let rise till light, 
then add one pint sweet milk, one and a half cups sugar, one-fourth 
cup (large measure) lard, a salt-spoon salt, a little nutmeg and cin- 
nam(>n, stir in flour until stiff, let rise again, then add a half tea- 
spoon soda dissolved in a little milk, pour out on molding board, 
mix stiff enough to cut out, and roll to half an inch thickness ; cut 
in long strips two inches wide and divide diagonally into pieces three 
inches long, set where it is warm, let rise on the board until light, 
and then fry. These do not cook through as easily as others, and it 
is safer to drop in one, and, by breaking it open, learn the time re- 
quired for them to fry. A very nice variation of this recipe may be 
made as follows : Roll part of the dough about half an inch thick, 



102 GINGER-BREAD. 



cut into small biscuits, let rise, and when light roll clown a little, lay 
a few raisins rolled in cinnamon in the center, wet the edges by dip- 
ping the finger in cold water and passing it over them; draw them 
together and press iirmly^ and drop them in the hot fat. A teaspoon 
apple-butter or any kind of jam may be used instead of the raisins. 
"When made with the raisins, they are the real German "Oily Koeks." 

Berlin Pancakes. — Roll out dough slighth/ sweetened and 
shortened, as if for very plain doughnuts ; cut in circles like biscuit, 
put a teaspoon currant jam or jelly on the center of one, lay another 
upon it, press the edges tightly together with the fingers and fry 
quickly in boiling fat. They will be perfect globes when done, a little 
smaller than an orange. 

TriHes. — A quart flour, a cup sugar, two tablespoons melted 
butter, a little salt, two teaspoons baking powder, one egg, and sweet 
milk sufficient to make rather stiff; roll out in thin sheets, cut in . 
pieces about two by four inches ; make as many cuts across the short 
way as possible, inserting the knife near one edge and ending the cut 
just before reaching the other. Pass two knitting-needles under 
every other strip, spread the needles as far apart as possible, and 
with them hold the trifles in the fat until a light brown. Only one 
can be fried at a time. 

Andover Wonders. — Boil together one cup water, tablespoon 
powdered sugar, half teaspoon salt and two ounces butter, and Avhile 
boiling add sufficient flour to make it leave sides of pan ; stir in one 
by one the yolks four eggs ; drop into hot lard from a teaspoon and 
frv lisht brown. 



Grinffer - Bread. 



Use sifted flour for mixing and rolling ginger-bread (sifting be- 
fore measuring), and if the dough becomes too stiff" before it is rolled 
out set it before the fire. Snaps will not be crisp if made on a rainy 
day. Ginger-bread and cakes require a moderate oven, pans us 
quick one. If cookies or snaps become moist in keeping, put them 
in the oven and heat them for a few moments. Always use Now 
Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, and never syrups. Soda is used to 
act on the " spirit " of the molasses. In making the old-fashioned, 
soft, square cakes of ginger-bread, put a portion of the dough on a 
well floured tin sheet, roll evenly to each side, trim off evenly around 
the edges, and mark off" in squares with a floured knife or wheel cut- 



GINGER-BREAD. 103 



ter. In this way tho dough may be softer than where it is necessary 
to pick up to remove from board after rolling and cutting. Always 
have the board well covered with sifted flour before rolling all kinds 
of soft ginger-breads, as they are liable to stick, and should always 
be mixed as soft as they can be handled. 

Ginger-hreacl. — One gallon molasses or strained honey, one and 
a quarter pounds butter, quarter pound soda stirred in a half cup 
sweet milk, teaspoon alum dissolved in just enough water to cover 
it, flour to make it stiff enough to roll out ; put the molasses in a 
very large dish, add the melted butter and soda, then all the other 
ingredients ; mix in the evening and set in a warm place to rise over- 
night ; in the morning knead it a long time like bread, roll into 
squares half an inch thick, and bake in bread-pans in an oven heated 
about right for bread. To make it glossy, rub over the top just be- 
fore putting it into the oven the following : One well Ijeaten egg, the- 
same amount or a little more sweet cream, stirring egg and cream 
well together. This ginger-bread will keep an unlimited time. The 
recipe is complete without ginger, but two tablespoons may be used 
if preferred. Over fifty years old^ and formerly used for general 
mtister days 

Ginger-hread. — One cup each sugar and molasses, one-half cup 
butter, two eggs, one tablespoon each saleratus and ginger, one tea- 
spoon allspice, one cup l)oiling water, four cups flour. 

Alum Oinger-hrcad. — Pint molasses, cup melted lard, table- 
spoon each ginger and salt, cup boiling water; in half the water dis- 
solve tablespoon pulverized alum, and in the other half a heaping 
tablespoon soda; stir in just Hour enough to knead; roll about half 
an inch thick, cut in oblong cards, and bake in a tolerably quick 
oven. 

Fairy Ginger-hread. — Crenm one cup butter with two of sugar, 
add tablespoon ginger, three-fourths'teaspoon soda in cup milk, and 
four cups tlour; butter baking pans, spread cake mixture thin as a 
wafer on them, and bake in moderate oven till brown. The moment 
it comes from the oven cut into squares with case-knife and slip 
from pan. Delicious. Keep in tin box. 

Loaf G inger-hread -—^^aX, together for ten minutes one cup each 
butter, molasses, and sugar with a tablespoon 
each ginger and cinnamon, then add a half ^-^^lliilliiilllliiiili 
cup cold water, tablespoon soda dissolved in 
boiling water, and flour to stir very hard. Gingerbread Ln.nf. 

Bake in loaves ; brush them over with syrup while hot,°and eait fresh. 

Soft Ginger-hread. — One and a half cups Orleans molasses, half 
cup each brown sugar, butter and sweet milk, teaspoon each soda 




104 GINGER-BREAD. 



and allspice, half teaspoon ginger ; mix all together thoroughly, add 
three cups sifted flour and bake in shallow pans. Excellent. 

Sj)iced Ginger-hread. — One cup each sugar, butter, and molasses, 
three eggs, three cups flour, one teaspoon soda dissolved in a cup 
sour cream, half a nutmeg, teaspoon cloves, tablespoon ginger. Ex- 
tra good. 

Sponge Ginger-hread. — One cup each sour milk and Orleans mo- 
lasses, a half cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon soda, tablespoon ginger, 
flour to make as thick as pound cake ; put butter, molasses and gin- 
ger together, make them quite warm, add the ^lilk, flour, eggs, and 
soda, and bake as soon as possible. 

White Ginger-hread. — Rub a half pound each butter and flour 
together, add half pound finely powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the 
finely minced rind of one lemon, an ounce ground ginger, and a 
grated nutmeg ; mix Avell together, and work into a smooth paste 
with one gill milk just warm, in which a half teaspoon carbonate of 
soda has been dissolved ; make into cakes and bake in moderate 
oven fifteen or twenty minutes. 

Ginger Cakes. — One quart Orleans molasses, pint lard 
or butter, pint buttermilk, two tablespoons each soda and ginger, 
three quarts sifted flour, making a stiff batter; pour the molasses 
and milk boiling hot into a large tin bread-pan in which have been 
placed the ginger and soda (the pan must be large enough to 
prevent running over) ; st'r in the flour, after which stir in the lard 
or butter; when cold, (better let stand overnight) mold with flour 
and cut in cakes, either with biscuit or cookie cutter. Care must 
be taken to follow these directions implicitly or the cakes will not 
be good ; remember to add the lard or butter last, and buttermilk, 
not sour milk, must be used ; boil the molasses in a skillet, and after 
pouring it into the pan, put the buttermilk in the same skillet, boil 
and pour it over the molasses, ginger and soda. This excellent 
recipe was kept as a secret for a long time by a professional baker. 

Ginger Cookies. — Two cups molasses, one each lard and sugar, 
two-thirds cup sour milk, tablespoon ginger, three teaspoons soda 
stirred in the flour and one in the milk, two eggs. 

Ginger Cookies. — One egg, one cup each sugar and molasses, 
one tablespoon each soda, vinegar and ginger ; roll thin and bake 
quickly. 

Best Ginger Drops. — Half cup sugar, cup molosses, 
half cup butter, one teaspoon each cinnamon, ginger and 
cloves, two teaspoons soda in a cup boiling water, two and , 
a half cups flour ; add two well-beaten eggs the last thing 
before baking. Baked in gem-tins or as a common ginger- D^ops."**^ 
bread, and eaten warm with a sauce, they make a nice dessert. 




GINGER-BREAD. 105 



Ginger J)rop Cakes. — Take three eggs, one cup each lard, 
baking molasses and brown sugar, one large tablespoon ginger, one 
tablespoon soda dissolved in a cup of boiling water, five cups un- 
sifted flour ; drop tablespoons of this mixture into a slightly greased 
dripping-pan about three inches apart. 

Ginger /Snaps. — Boil together one cup each molasses, butter 
and sugar. Add two teaspoons each soda and cinnamon, one each 
cloves and ginger, flour enough to roll out smoothly. Roll thin and 
bake quickly. 

Ginger Snaps. — One pound and six ounces flour, four of sugar, 
eight of butter, six of preserved orange peel, half pint molasses, one tea- 
spoon soda dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water, one teaspoon 
cloves, two of ginger ; soften the butter and mix it with the sugar and 
molasses, add the spices, orange peel and soda, Ijcat well and stir in 
the flour, flour the board and roll the paste as thin as possible, cut 
in circles and bake in a very quick oven. This quantity makes one 
hundred and twenty-nine snaps, about three inches across. 

Hotel Ginger Snaps. — One gallon molasses, two pounds brown 
sugar, one quart melted butter, half cup each ground cloves, mace, 
cinnamon and ginger, one cup soda. 

Ginger Tea-cakes. — Mix two cups each powdered sugar and 
warmed butter, add three well-beaten }4olks, a cup molasses, four 
heaping cups flour, tablespoon each ginger and soda. Bake in patty 
pans in a moderate oven. 



106 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



CPtEAMS AN33 OUSTAIIDS. 



For creams and custards eggs should never be beaten in tin, but 
always in stone or earthen Avare, as there is some chemical influence 
about tin which prevents their attaining that creamy lightness so 
desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beating 
whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams it is 
better to soak it for an hour or two in a little cold water or milk, set 
in a warm place ; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top 
of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve) ; when dissolved, pour into the 
hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the 
common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar, one salt-?poon salt to each 
quart milk. Custards, like cakes, are nicer if yolks and whites are 
beaten separately and whites added last. Bake in baking dish, or 
r-up set in pan of hot water until firm in center, taking care that heat 
is moderate or the custard will turn in part to whey. The delicacy 
of the custard depends on its being baked slowly. It is much nicer 
to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a small wire strain- 
er. For boiled custards or floats the 
yolks alone may be used, which makes 
the custard much finer, or for economy's 
sake the entire eggs. For a more ele- 
gant custard whip whites of eggs and 
place over the top when hot. Always place milk to boil in a custard 
kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



107 




Custard Kettle. 



with tin), or in a pan or pail set in a kettle of hoihng water ; when 
the milk reaches the boiling point, which is 
shown by a slight foam rising on top, add 
the sugar Avhich cools it so that the eggs 
will not curdle when added ; or, another 
convenient Avay is to mix the beaten and 
strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then 
add gradually several spoons of the boiling 
milk, until the eggs and sugar are heated 
through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. 
Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a 
little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail imme- 
diately in cold water or turn into a cold dish, as it curdles 
if allowed to remain in a hot basin ; add flavoring extracts 
after removing from the stove. Peach leaves, vanilla 
beans, or laurel leaA^es give a fine flavor, but must be 
boiled in the milk and taken out before other ingredients 
are added. The only spices used in flavoring custards 
are nutmeg and cinnamon. Lemon is liked by many but 
the white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and 
the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way 
is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar 
thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called " zest," and is 
used, pounded fine, for creams, etc. Boiled custards are very diffi- 
cult to make, and must have closest attention until finished. Cus- 
tards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar. 
and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling. 

In making Charlotte-russe it is not necessary to add gelatine. 
The filling may be made of well- whipped cream, flavored and sweet- 
ened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater " to do the 
whipping. When other ingredients are to be combined with the 
whipped cream for filling, leave the cream on ice until all are ready, 
then turn cream into the mixture, whip through gently, let stand a 
few minutes and whip again, keeping it on ice till it 
jf seems to be thickening, when it should be turned 
into a plain mold previously lined with-cake, which 
should also be kept on ice until ready to serve. Any deep pan will 
do, which should not be wet or greased but lined with clean manilla 
paper. If sponge cake is used cut in sheets to fit bottom and sides 





108 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



smoothly. When lady-fingers are used the ingenuity of the cook 
may be brought into play in their arrangement, placing them diago- 
nally around the sides, forming a star or rosette in the bottom, cut- 
ting into desired shapes to carry out any design. 

A large charlotte-russe could easily be given the form of a fort 
by molding in deep conical shaped pan, leaving holes at intervals 
in the sides of the cake lining, and after turning out inserting there- 
in lady-fingers to represent cannon, ornamenting top with darts or 
arrows of isinglass with bits of jelly on the points. A full slice of 
pine-apple divided into eighths and the rind turned in the center, 
leaving the points to turn out in the form of a star, filling the center 
with whipped cream, makes a handsome finish for the top of char- 
lotte-russe or a pine-apple cake. Icing the sides is also an improve- 
ment; in short, ornament in any manner as fancy may dictate, with 
candied fruits, nuts, etc., which may be made to adhere to the cake 
by first dipping in syrup (sugar boiled to crackling). To make the 

^- — ^ :^U cake lining retain its place firmly, brush edges 

Pastry Brufh"^"^^^ whcrevcr cake or lady-fingers join with a very 
little of this hot syrup or with the white of an egg, or a little 
gum arable dissolved in water, putting on so little that none 
adheres to the mold. The whole interior is sometimes brushed 
over with white of egg to make the cake firmer. If any sheet of 
cake is left, put upside down on board and spread over it a wet 
towel and it will keep perfectly. If eggs are used in the 
cream whip them first. If preferred, the charlotte-russe may 
be made into small molds, one for each person. Great care 
must be used in turning out, or the cream may burst the cake. 
Holding the mold in the left hand, place the plate or dish on which 



it is to be served over it with the right hand, 
and slowly and gently invert it. If desired, 
a piece of the cake may be shaped for a 
cover to the mold, which when served be- 
comes the foundation. A much simpler 
and very nice way of preparing a case for 
charlotte-russe, is to bake a sponge cake in 
a fancy mold and when cold turn out and 
with a sharp knife carefully cut off the top, 
laying it to one side for the cover ; replace 
cake in mold and remove the inside 




Charlotte Bom*. 

carefully, leaving 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 109 

the cake at least an inch thick and as smooth as possible ; then 
fill with the prepared cream, put on the cover and serve 
inverted, as above on plate ; or simply scoop out the inside 
and after filling and turning from the mold turn it on another 
plate, leaving the cake right side up, and heap whipped cream 
upon the open top as illustrated. 

Cream intended for whipping should first be chilled on ice, and 
may be sweetened or flavored to taste either before or after whip- 
ping. Have a deep tin pan half filled with snoAV or pounded ice, and 
into this set another pan that will hold two or three times the quan- 
tity of cream before it is whipped ; place the cream in a bowl, set on 
ice, and with a whip churn (or an egg beater if you have not a 
churn) whip to a froth, and when the bowl is full let stand a moment 
until the air bubbles break, then skim the froth into the pan standing 
on the ice, and repeat this until the cream is all froth ; then with the 
spoon draw the froth to one side, and it will be found that some of 
the cream has gone back to milk ; turn this into the bowl again and 
whip as before; or use a sieve as the receptacle for the whipped 
cream, placing it over a bowl to catch the drippings, which are re- 
whipped. The whip churn shown in the cut can be procured of 
almost any dealer or may be ordered from the tinner. It is operated 
by placing the handle inside the tube and inserting 
the perforated end of the tube (slightly tipped) into 
the bowl of cream. By drawing up the handle and 
forcing it down again the cream is forced in and 
■HTiip Chum. Q^^^ Qf fi^Q holes in the tube and soon becomes a 
light froth, which is taken off as directed above. In cold weather it 
is not considered necessary by some to thus skim the froth, simply 
whipping rapidly until the whole stiffens Be careful not to whip 
too long or particles of butter will form. When cream is difficult 
to whip, add to and whip with it the white of an egg. After the 
cream is Avhipped, work the froth with an egg whisk which makes it 
finer grained. If perfectly sweet use double cream for whipping. U 
too thick a little milk may be added. 

Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours, 
and is best for tea or coffee ; double cream has stood twenty-four 
hours, and cream for butter often stands forty-eight hours. In put- 
ting together ingredients for custards always rinse out the bowl in 



110 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




which yolks were beaten with a part of the milk used, so that non© 
of the yolks will be wasted. When creams or custards through lack 
of proper attention have been cooked too long and become curdled, 
beating thoroughly with an egg beater will remove the unpleasant 
effect. The measurement of cream in the following recipes is given 
before it is whipped. The Bavarian cream recipes will make three 
or four times the quantity of unwhipped cream called for, and are 
therefore comparatively inexpensive for so elegant a dessert. Molds 
should always be wet in cold water for creams, russes, blanc-manges, 
etc., that are placed in them to stand until cold. If they do not turn 

out easilv, dip for an 



instant into warm water. 

Before turning into 

molds some prefer to 

strain all blanc-manges, 

c -■ and cool six hours before 

serving, or are even better made the day before wanted. Should 

custards cook up lumpy they should be strained, and many strain 

them before cooking, after putting all ingredients together. 

Gelatine is usually put up in two-ounce packages, so that where 
recipes call for half package, one ounce should be used. In choos- 
ing gelatine or isinglass select that which is whitest, has no un- 
pleasant odor, and which dissolves most readily in water. To test 
its purity drop a few threads of the substance into boiling water, 
some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the first it will 
dissolve, in the second become white and cloudy, and in vinegar it 
will swell and become jelly-like. But if adulterated it will not so 
completely dissolve in hot water, in cold water it will become jelly- 
like, and in vinegar will harden. In preparing 
small fruits with seeds for 
creams, etc., mash through a 
/ine woven-wire sieve, called a 
puree sieve — the ordinary flour 
Puree Sieve. slcvc belug too coarsc. A very 

useful kitchen utensil is the little steamer de- Teakettle steamw. 

signed to set over top of teakettle, in which creams and custards 
that need to be cooked over hot water may be very easily prepared, 
saving space of one utensil. 

Macaroon Basket. — A pretty and unique way of serving maca- 





CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



Ill 



roons with cream is as follows : Dissolve a tablespoon gum arabic 



A-. 




in half cup boiling water thoroughly ; then 
stir in one large cup white sugar. Boil 
gently until very thick. Set it while using 
in a pan of boiling water to keep hot. 
Take a round tin pail, butter thickly on 
bottom and sides, dip the edges only of 
each macaroon in the hot candy and lay 
them in close rows on the bottom until 
it is covered. Let them get perfectly dry, 
and be sure they adhere firmly to one an- 
other before beginning the lower row of 
the sides. Build up the wall one row at a 
time, letting each harden before adding lii:3aroou BasklT 

another. When the basket is done and firm, lift carefully from the 
mold, make a loop-handle at each end with four or five macaroons 
stuck together, set on a flat dish and heap with whipped cream. 
Sprinkle comfits over cream or ornament with bits of red jelly. Lady- 
fingers, brushing edges with white of egg, may be thus utilized. 
Another pretty dish is made by slicing oranges "nicely, and placing 
on skewers dip them into the hot candy, and line bottom and sides 
of pail or mold (which must first be buttered) in same way. Leave 
until hard and cemented together, fill with whipped cream and you 
have an Orange Basket. 

Orange Baskets. — Remove the fruit from the interior of oranges 
carefully by making a small incision on one side of the fruit, then 
cut the skin into the shape of a basket, leaving about half an inch 
of the stalk ends for handles. Fill the baskets with any cream, 
ices, ice cream, whipped cream, jellies, etc., and thev make a very 
pretty^ ornament for the table. The juice and pulp removed can be 
made into jelly or custard, or sent to table sweetened with sugar. 

Blanc-Mange. — Dissolve three heaping tablespoons each corn 
starch and sugar in one pint milk ; add to this three eggs well beaten, 
and pour the mixture into one pint boiling milk, stirring constantly 
until it boils again ; after taking from the stove flavor to taste and 
pour into cups or small moulds ; when cool take 
out and place on dish as illustrated, or with a 
mold of jelly in center. Serve a spoon of jelly 
and a sauce of sweetened cream with each mold. 
or omit jelly entirely and serve with sweetened cream or whipped 
cream ; or, put one quart milk (reserving three tablespoons with which 
mix three heaping tablespoons corn-starch) with a pinch salt and 
five tablespoons sugar. When milk is hot, pour in the mixed corn- 
starch, and stir until it is a thick batter ; pour this on the well-beaten 
whites of four eggs, add two teaspoons vanilla, pour into mold wet 
in cold water, and set on ice ; when cold turn from the mold and 




112 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




serve in a custard made as follows : Put one pint milk in a basin 
over boiling water, mix in a tea-cup two even teaspoons corn-starch 
in two of cold milk, beat in the four yolks of eggs, and two and a 
half tablespoons sugar. When the milk is hot pour part of it into 
the cup and stir well, pour it back into the basin and stir until as 
thick as desired ; put on ice until chilled thoroughly. Blanc-mange 
may be colored brown with chocolate, green with spinach juice, or 
pink with the juice of strawberry, currant or cranberry, or a hand- 
some yellow with saffron or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, 
moistened with the juice and strained through a cloth. An easy 
and ornamental dish can then be made by putting into the bottom 
of the mold a layer of the white blanc-mange, ^ 
smoothing it nicely, then a layer of the colored, ^^ 
and finish with the white, or vice versa. Very 
pretty half-pint molds may be made as follows : 
Tilt mold in a pan of snow or pounded ice, color one-fourth the 
blanc-mange pink, another fourth green ; wet the molds and pour 
into them a little of the colored blanc-mange, putting only one color 
into each mold, and filling it so that Avhen tilted the blanc-mange 
reaches nearly to the top and covers about two-thirds of the bot- 
tom ; when cold set mold level and fill with the white blanc-mange, 
which has meantime been kept in so warm a place as not to hard- 
en. If the molds are made to imitate roses or fruit, the fruit may 
be green, and roses pink ; if corn, yellow ; and various ways of com- 
bining colors and forms will suggest themselves to the ingenious 
housewife. 

Chocolate Blanc-Mange. — Half box gelatine, soaked till dis- 
solved in as much cold water as Avill cover it, four ounces sweet 
chocolate grated, one quart sweet milk, one cup sugar; boil milk, 
sugar and chocolate five minutes, add gelatine and boil five minutes 
more, stirring constantly ; or to the grated chocolate add half the 
sugar, place in sauce pan with two table- 
spoons boiling water, stir over a hot fire a 
minute or two, add to milk in custard ket- 
tle with the rest of sugar, strain, flavor 
with vanilla, put in molds to cool, and eat 
with cream. If wanted for tea, make in 
the morning ; if for dinner, the night before. _ 

For a plain blanc-mange omit the choco- Pudjing Moid. 

late. To serve very handsomely with 
cream set to forin in a mold with cylinder 
in center (any pudding or cake mold will 
do). One may be improvised by stitching 
together a roll of stiff' paper just the height 
of mold, butter it well and hold in center of mold while filling, put- 
ting a light weight on it to keep in place ; or, better still, use a bottle 
filled with shot or damp salt. When blanc-mange is turned out slip 





CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



lis 



out this cylinder, fill the cavity with whipped cream, raising it to 
pyramidal form, and heap same about the base ; or, form in melon 
mold and serve with whipped cream around it. 

Farina Blan.c- Mange. — ^ei a quart new milk over boiling 
water, reserving a few spoonfuls in which mix three ounces farina ; 
when the milk films add one-third cup sugar, the farina and a quar- 
ter teaspoon salt, and stir until cooked to thick batter ; pour into 
wet mold, let stand three hours, and eat with sugar and cream, or 
any custard or sauce preferred. 

Raspberry Blaiic-Mange.—^iev^ nice fresh raspberries, strain 
off the juice and sweeten to taste; place over the fire and when it 
boils stir in corn starch wet in cold water, allowing two table- 
spoons corn starch for each pint juice; continue stirring until 
sufficiently cooked, pour into molds wet in cold water and set 
away to cool ; eat with cream and sugar ; other fruit can be used 
instead of raspberries. 

Rice Blanc- Mange. — Y\ve ounces rice flour and one quart 
milk ; mix flour with a little cold milk and stir till smooth, then add 
and stir in six ounces fine sugar, a teaspoon grated yellow rind of a 
lemon, or two teaspoons pure vanilla extract, or a drop or Urn essence 
of almonds; then^idd the rest of the milk, stir all well together, place 
on the fire and boil and stir constantly until it thickens, then imme- 
diately pour into mold ; let it remain till perfectly stiff and cold ; 
eat with sugar and cream or any sauce preferred. 

Saqo Blanc-Mange.— ^o\\ a half pint pearl sago in one quart 
milk, or half milk and half water, until perfectly soft ; stir in two 
well-l3eaten eggs and pour into mold wet with cold water. Serve 
with the sweetened cream, or it may be eaten warm if preferred with 
" Fairy Butter." 

Vanilla Blanc- Mange.— Ona ounce gelatine soaked in one 
quart milk one hour ; set over fire, add yolks of three eggs beaten with 
one cup sugar, beat to boiling, flavor with vanilla and turn into 
mold. Eat with sweetened cream. 

Apple Charlotte. — Soak one-third box gelatine an hour in third 
cup cold water, pour half cup boiling water over it, stir until thor- 
oughly dissolved and pour upon a scant pint of tart apples-steamed 
and rubbed through a puree sieve, add one cup sugar and juice of 
one large lemon ; place in a basin of pounded ice and beat until it 
begins to thicken add well-frothed whites of three eggs, pour into 
two-quart mold that has been lined with sponge cake and set on ice 
to harden ; make a custard of the yolks, one pint milk and three ta- 
blespoons sugar, and Avhen the charlotte is turned out on a dish 
pour this around it. 



114 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

Straivberrij Charlotte. — Dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a 
pint warm water, strain and when nearly set dip fresh strawberries 
into it and line bottom and sides of a plain round mould packed in 
ice ; fill with cream made after any cream or russe recipe preferred. 
Raspberries, blackberries and cherries may be used for same pur- 
pose. Serve when cold with whipped cream poured round it, dip- 
ping mold in warm water before turning out. A most beautiful and 
delicious dish. 

Charlotte- Russe. — Split two dozen lady-fingers (slices of 
sponge or other cake may be used), lay them in a mold, put one- 
third box gelatine into half pint milk, place it where it will be warm 
enough to dissolve. Whip three pints cream to a froth and keep 
cool ; beat yolks of three eggs and mix with half pound powdered 
sugar, then beat wdiites very stiff and add to it, strain the gelatine 
upon these, stirring quickly ; then add the cream, flavor with vanilla 
or lemon, pour over the cake, let stand upon ice two hours. Serve 
with whipped cream. Some add a layer of jelly at bottom of mold. 

Charlotte-Busse. — One ounce gelatine dissolved in two gills 
boiling milk, well-frothed whites of four eggs, 
one and a half cups white powdered sugar, one 
pint thick cream whipped to froth, and rose- 
water or vanilla for flavoring ; line a large mold 

Avith thick slices sponge cake, mix the gelatine, ilrge mow. 

sugar, cream and flavoring together, add lightly the frothed whites, 
pour into mold, set away on ice till required for use. This is an 
easy and excellent mode of making this most delicate dessert. 

Charlotte-lhisse. — Cut stale sponge cake into slices about half 
an inch thick and line three molds with them, leaving a space of half 
an inch between each slice ; set molds where they will not be dis- 
turbed until filling is ready ; whip one and one-half pints cream to 
stiff froth, stir into it two-thirds cup powdered sugar, one teaspoon 
vanilla, and half a box gelatine soaked in cold water enough to 
cover it for one hour, and then dissolved in boiling water enough to 
dissolve it (about half a cup) ; stir from the bottom of the pan until 
it begins to grow stiff, fill the molds and set on ice one hour, or 
until they are sent to table. ^Yhen ready to serve loosen lightly at 
the sides and turn out on a flat dish. 

Charlotte-Busse. — Make a sponge cake and bake in a sheet, or 
better, buy a sheet at bakery, wet bottom 
of paper with cold water and take off care- 
fully, or if cake has accidentally been 
baked too hard, let stand after dampening 

If^^MM ^ ■::.:■■:■:;:■ for fiftecii miiiutes before taking off paper. 

^H^^^J^^^iap Line an unljuttered mold by trimming off 

'^ ,„p .r-^K. edges of cake and just cutting a piece to 

charioite-Russc. " "' fit thc bottoiii, thcii thc sldcs, putting 

light colored side of cake next to mold and fill with the following 





CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 115 

prepared whipped cream : One pint thick sweet cream, four heaping 
tablespoons sugar and teaspoon flavoring, third each of lemon, va- 
nilla and almond, or all of one kind ; place dish in a pan of ice and 
whip with egg beater or whip churn. After filling mold place in 
bed of ice till wanted, turn out on platter and serve. 

Almond Bavarian Cream. — Whip one and one-half pints cream 
until only a half pint is left unwhipped, which put into a double 
boiler with a pint blanched sweet almonds pounded to paste, and add 
three eggs and a small cup sugar, first thoroughly beaten together ; 
cook until it begins to thicken, then stir in one ounce gelatine 
soaked two hours in half cup milk ; remove from fire, strain and add 
one-fourth teaspoon essence of almond ; beat until it thickens and 
stir in the whipped cream, pour into molds, set away until cold, and 
serve with whipped cream. Use one pint pistachio nuts instead of 
almonds, omitting essence of almond, and you have Pistachio 
Bavarian Cream. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Scrape one ounce Baker's choc- 
olate, add two tablespoons sugar, put over a hot fire with one table- 
spoon hot water and stir until smooth and glossy. Have a half cup 

milk boiling, stir the chocolate into it 

and add one ounce gelatine soaked two 

hours in a half cup milk. Strain into 

tin basin, add two tablespoons sugar, 

place in ice water and stir until it 

begins to thicken ; add a pint cream 

whipped to a stiff froth, mixing well, 

and turn into mold to harden. Serve 

Bav^iiaux Cream. with wMppcd crcam. The crown molds 

are best for Bavarian cream, as the opening in the center may be 

filled with the whipped cream served with it. 

Orange Bavarian Cream. — Whip one and one-half pints cream, 
and skim off until less than a half pint remains unwhipped : put 
this in a double boiler, add beaten yolks six eggs, stir until it 
begins to thicken, and add one ounce gelatine that has been soaked 
two hours in a half cup cold water, also grated rind of two oranges. 
When gelatine is dissolved take off and set in pan of powdered ice ; 
stir till it begins to cool and add juice five oranges strained over one 
large cup sugar. Beat until it thickens like custard, add whipped 
cream, stiinintil thoroughly mixed, and pour into molds. The oranges 
may be omitted, and flavored with vanilla the above makes a delicious 
Vanilla Cream. Serve when cold heaped around with whipped 
cream. Make Lemon Cream, in same manner, using juice four 
lemons, or, leave out the cream, taking instead a scant pint cold 
water mixed with the well-beaten yolks five eggs, stirred in with the 
sugar and juice, adding the whipped whites last instead of the 
cream, and you will have Orange or Lemon Sponge, as you prefer. 




116 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




Pine-apple Bavarian Crea77i. — Chop one pint canned pine- 
apple, and simmer over fire with small cup sugar twenty minutes and 
add one ounce gelatine previously soaked two hours in half cup 
cold water, strain through a sieve into bright tin 
basin, rubbing through as much of the pine-apple 
as possible. Beat until it begins to thicken, then 
stir in one pint cream, whipped, pour into mold 
and serve cold, with whipped cream around. _ 

Decorate with tuft of pine-apple leaves, or if want- Pinc-appie cream. 

ed more elaborate use pine-apple decoration described in charlotte- 
russe. Coifee Bavarian Cream is made the same, with one cup 
strong, boiling hot coffee instead of the cooked pine-apple ; or, take 
whites four eggs and a cup cold water, leaving out whipped cream, 
mixing the water with the sugar and fruit before cooking, and add- 
ing the frothed whites of eggs instead of cream, and you will have 
a delicious Pine-apple Sponge. 

Strawberry Bavarian Cream. — Soak one ounce gelatine two 
hours in half cup cold water, mash one quart strawberries 
with large cup sugar and let stand one hour ; whip one pint 
cream to froth, strain mashed berries through cloth into bright 
tin basin, pour half cup boiling water over the soaked gelatine, 
and when dissolved strain it into the strawberry juice. Set 
basin in pan of pounded ice and beat the mixture until it 
begins to thicken ; when like soft custard stir in and mix 
thoroughly the whipped cream, turn into a two-quart mold, or 
two or more smaller ones, and set away to cool and harden. Serve 
cold with whipped cream. Paspoerry and Blackherry Ba- 
varian Creams are made in exactly same manner, as are also 
Peach, Apricot, and Pear Creams, first putting these fruits 
(which may be either canned, partially cooked, or fresh) through a 
puree sieve, and then cooking gently with the sugar twenty minutes, 
■jt-r vTrpga sT/-/-^^ stirring often ; leave out the hot water and stir the 
r5>^<^^^Sl^<.-^^ soaked gelatine into the hot fruit, which must 
cool before beating and adding whipped cream. 

peaon Cream, Picccs of frcsli frult uiay be served around it. 

Or, for Sponges with any of the above fruits use a cup water and 
whites of four eggs instead of pint cream, boiling half the sugar and 
water together twenty minutes, then adding the gelatine, then the 
berries or fruit prepared as above, and stirring in the whipped whites 
of eggs when the mixture is partially cold and begins to thicken. 
Mold and serve same as creams. 

Italian Cream. — Soak one-third box gelatine half an hour in 
cold milk, put a quart milk in custard kettle and when boiling stir 
in well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, add one and a half cups sugar 
and the gelatine ; Avhen the custard begins to thicken take it off 
and pour into a deep dish in which the eight whites have been beaten 
to a stiff froth ; beat thoroughly together and flavor to taste ; put in 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 117 

molds, and allow four hours to cool. This cream is much more 
easily made in winter than in summer. 

Chocolate Cream. — Scald one quart milk and stir into it half 
package gelatine, previously dissolved in one cup milk, and add 
cup powdered sugar. Heat up once and when gelatine is quite dis- 
solved strain. Wet four tablespoons chocolate with cold water and 
add to the mixture, which must again he heated 
smoking hot, then add gradually beaten yolks two 
eggs, and boil for five minutes, not longer, as the 
eggs may curdle. Turn into a large shallow dish 
or pan to cool, and when it begins to coagulate chocoi.ite cream. 
whip in gradually and thoroughly beaten whites two eggs. Lastly 
add pint cream, whipped, pour into wet mold, let stand until per- 
fectly cold and serve with sweetened cream. By taking half the 
chocolate and coloring only half the cream, using a buttered paste- 
board to separate the two in the mold, the effect is quite i)leasing. 

Raspherry Cream. — One quart good cream, one pint fresh 
raspberries ; mash and rub fruit through a fine sieve or strainer to 
extract the seeds, bring the cream to a boil (having reserved one 
pint for froth), and add it to the berries while it remains hot, 
sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. Now 
raise cream, which has been reserved, to a froth with a beater, take 
off the froth and lay it on a sieve to drain ; fill dish, or glasses as in 
almond custard, with the cream and place froth on top. Very nice. 
Any kind of berries, jam or jelly is good, and can be used without 
straining. 

Rock Cream. — Boil one cup rice in a custard-kettle in sweet 
milk until soft, add two tablespoons loaf sugar, a salt-spoon salt ; 
pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly ; beat whites of five 
eggs and three tablespoons pulverized sugar to stiff" froth, flavor to 
taste, add one tablespoon rich cream, and drop the mixture on the 
rice, giving it the form of a rough snowy rock ; or, flavor the rice 
with essence almonds, or any other preferred, put into cups and 
let stand till cold ; then turn out in a deep glass dish and pour 
round them a soft custard made after any good recipe, placing on 
top of each ball a bit of bright colored jelly. Flavoring must be 
same in rice and custard. • 

Riiby Cream. — Soak half pint tapioca over night in half pint 
water ; simmer over slow fire in a pint cold water until clear, the 
soaked tapioca and a lemon rind cut in pieces ; skim out lemon 
paring and stir in four ounces sugar, half pint currant jelly, juice 
one lemon, two teaspoons scokeberry syrup ; let simmer a few min- 
utes and pour into one large or two small glass dishes, and when 
perfectly cold (just before serving) cover it with either of these 
snows : Whipped whites four eggs with three ounces powdered 



118 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

sugar added gradually, flavored with a little lemon, or one pint 
cream whipped with two and one-half ounces sugar. Very ornamen- 
tal, and called also '• Ruby under the snoio.''^ 

Tapioca Cream. — Soak over night two tablespoons tapioca in 
one-half cup milk (or enough to cover) ; bring one quart milk to 
boiling point ; beat well together yolks of three eggs, half cup sugar 
and one teaspoon lemon or vanilla for flavoring ; add the tapioca, 
and stir the whole into the boiling milk, let boil once, turn into the 
dish, and immediately spread on the whites. Serve when cold. 

Tea Cream. — Dissolve one-half package gelatine in one cup 
milk, add one cup Avhite sugar, and pour over it one large cup strong 
tea, boiling hot, strain through fine muslin and let cool; whip pint 
of rich cream and also two eggs ; when the gelatine is perfectly 
cold beat in the whites until it is a firm froth, then whip in the cream ; 
set away in a wet mold for eight or ten hours, and serve cold with 
sweetened cream. CofFee Cream, is made in same manner, substi- 
tuting cup strong black coffee for the tea. Both made at a time, 
molded in cups or individual molds, and turned out in alternate 
row^s upon a plate, they make a handsome dish, and give guests a 
choice. The stronger and blacker the coffee the greater the contrast. 

Turret Cream. — One pint sweet, rich cream, one quart milk, 
one package Cox's gelatine, one heaping cup white sugar, three eggs 
beaten light, whites and yolks separately, one-half pound crystal- 
lized fruit — cherries and peaches, or apricots — vanilla flavoring, juice 
one lemon. Soak gelatine four hours in one cup milk, scald re- 
mainder of milk and add the sugar, and when this is dissolved the 
soaked gelatine ; stir over the fire until almost boiling, and divide 
into two parts ; return one part to the fire, and when near boiling 
stir in the beaten yolks, cook two minutes, and turn into a bowl to 
cool. When it cools whip the cream very stiff and beat whites of 
eggs until they v'^tand alone ; divide the latter into two heaps. As 
the yellow gelatine begins to " form " whip one-half the whites into 
it, a little at a time ; to the white gelatine add rest of whites in same 
manner alternately with whipped cream ; season yellow with vanilla 
and white with lemon juice beaten in last. Wet a tall fluted mold 
with water and place around bottom on inside a row crystalized 
cherrif s, then a layer white mixture, then a layer apricots or peach- 
es, sliced, layer yellow mixture, another border of cherries, and so 
on until all materials are used. When firm, which Avill be in a few 
hours (in summer set on ice), wrap a cloth wrung out of hot water 
on the mold, and invert upon a flat dish ; serve with sweet cream. 
A very beautiful, ornamental and delicious dessert, and sure to be a 
success if above directions are followed. Bitter almond may be 
used instead of lemon if preferred. Made in the fluted mold with 
stem, filling in whipped cream in center, makes a still more elabo- 
rate dish. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



119 




Cuatard iu Glasses. 



Whij)2)ed Cream. — Prepared according to directions in preface 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored is a choice dessert alone, 
but may be served in various ways. Baked apples, and fresh or 
preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly served in glasses one- 
third full and filled up with cream makes a very wholesome and 
delicious dessert. 

Whipped Cream. — One and one-half pints good rich cream 
sweetened and flavored to taste, three teapoons vanilla; whip to 
stiff froth. Dissolve three-fourths ounce best gelatine in a small 
cup hot water, and when cool pour into the cream ; stir thoroughly, 
pour in molds and set on ice, or in very cool place. 

Almond Custard.— Heat a quart milk (half cream is better) to 
boiling and add the beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of four and a 
half pounds almonds blanched and pound- 
ed to paste with four tablespoons rose water. 
Put over boiling water and stir constantly 
until it thickens. Then remove from fire 
and when nearly cold stir up thoroughly and 
pour into cups or glasses ; make a meringue with the whites of four 
eggs and a half cup powdered sugar, flavored with one teaspoon 
extract bitter almond, and heap on each cup. 

Apple Custard.— One pint mashed stewed apples, one pint sweet 
milk, four eggs, one cup sugar, and a little nutmeg, or juice and 
grated rind of one lemon is a nice flavoring ; bake slowly m custard 
cups or deep dish, and serve either hot or cold. 

Boiled Custard.— One quart milk, two tablespoons corn-starch, 
two egcs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, butter size of hickory-nut ; wet 
starch in a little of the milk, heat the remainder to near boiling in a 
tin pail set in boiling Avater. The proper heat will be indicated by a 
froth or film rising to the top : add the starch till it thickens, stirrmg 
constantlv, then add the eggs well-beaten with four tablespoons 
sugar, let'it cook, stirring briskly, take ofl' and beat well. Flavor to 
taste, and served with grated cocoa-nut it is elegant. 

Caramel Custard.— To make a baked custard, separate the 
whites and volks of five eggs (or four), beat yolks well with a quar- 
ter pound ("half tea-cup) sugar, add the well-beaten whites, iind mix 
well with a quart milk. Flavor and then pour into buttered mold 
or cups. Set immediately into a pan boiling hot water, in moder- 
ately hot oven. About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. 
When nicely broAvned and puffed up, touch the middle with a knife 
blade ; if it cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done ; take care 
not to overdo. This makes a plain custard. To make Caramel 
Custard, let stand until perfectly cool, turn out gently on a plate 
and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of hot oven ; the 
sugar soon melts and browns. Or, put half cup sugar in saucepan 



120 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

over the fire, stir oonstantly until dissolved, pour into unbuttered 
pudding dish, tipping the dish so it will run round the sides, fill with 
custard and bake ; or some butter the mold carefull}', sprinkle sugar 
over bottom and set on stove to brown, pour in custard and bake; 
when turned out the caramel will be on top. Use less sugar for the 
custard when carameled if nat liked very sweet. Grated almonds 
or coacoa-nut may be added. A thinner custard may be made with 
less eggs, but it cannot be carameled unless baked in individual cups. 
Less eggs may also be used by substituting a ])<)rtion of corn starch, 
boiled rice, gelatine or something else to give firnuiess,but the qual- 
ity of custard will be impaired. Baking too rapidly or too long 
injures custard, hence do. not scald milk and eggs before setting in 
oven, as many recommend. Dy baling in boiling water the temper- 
ature is regular, and scorching prevented. 

foiled Caramel Ciostord. — One quart milk, luilf cup sugar, six 
eggs, half teaspoon salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cup- 
ful. Beat the eggs, and add the cold milk to them. Stir the sugar 
in a small frying-jian until itliocomes liquid and just begins to smoke. 
Stir it into the boiling milk, then add the beaten eggs and cold milk, 
and stir constantl}^ until the mixture begins to thicken. Set away 
to cool. Serve in glasses. 

Chocolate Custard. — Break two sections chocolate in a half 
dozen pieces, put in a pan over boiling water with milk enough to 
barely cover ; mash and stir perfectly smooth, then add the rest of 
the milk (one quart in all, reserving three tablespoons in which to 
dissolve corn-staixh) one cup sugar, yolks of six eggs, heaping table- 
spoon corn-starch ; beat yolks, add sugar and corn-starch (dissolved 
in milk), stir all slowly in the boiling milk in which the chocolate is 
dissolved, add pinch salt and let cook a few minutes, stirring con- 
stantly. Serve cold in glasses with a meringue of whites of eggs on 
top, or only half fill glasses with custard and finish with whipped 
cream as in almond cake. Or pour this custard in a deep glass 
dish lined with pulped apples, sift powdered sugar over top and 
glaze with salamander iron. 

Coifee Custard. — Boil together a pint each fresh strong cofiee 
and cream and turn the mixture over eight eggs beaten up with one 
and one-half cups sugar, stirring rapidly, then set into boiling hot 
water and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens ; pour into cus- 
tard cups and serve cold with whipped cream or frothed whites of 
eggs on top. 

Corn Meal Custard. — To the well beaten yolks of three eggs 
add a quart milk and tablespoon each butter and sugar; then add 
gradually scant three-quarters tea-cup fine corn meal, well whipped 
whites and flavor with nutmeg ; pour in cups, boil or steam fifteen 
minutes and brown delicately in oven ; or reserve whites of two eggs, 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 121 

add to them two tablespoons sugar, cover tops and brown as above 
and serve hot or cold. 

Cuj:) Custards. — One scant quart milk, four well-beaten eggs 
one cup sugar, flavor to taste ; stir 
thoroughly together until sugar is dis- ^|k^M7/S 

solved ; pour into cups and set in pan ^^^p ^ 

boiling hot water in oven to bake. ~ '^ cuatard in cups. 

They will be done in about thirty minutes. Serve cold in the cups. 

Fruit Custards. — Stew any kind of fruit almost to a jelly, 
strain oif the juice, cool, and sweeten to taste. To one quart sweet- 
ened juice add eight well-beaten eggs stirred into three pints new 
milk. Set in boiling water until it thickens, or bake twenty to thirty 
minutes. Serve in cups or a deep dish as preferred either hot or 
cold. Whipped whites of eggs over the top improves its appearance. 

Gelatine Custard. — To one-third package Cox's gelatine add e 
little less than one pint boiling water : stir until gelatine is dissolved, 
add juice one lemon, and one and a half cups sugar; strain through 
a jelly-strainer into dish for the table, and set in a cool place. For 
custard, to one and a half pints milk add yolks of four eggs (reserv- 
ing the whites), and four tablespoons sugar; cook and flavor when 
cool. When required for the table cut gelatine into small squares 
and pour the custard over them. Add four tablespoons powdered 
sugar to whites of four eggs well beaten, and when ready for the table 
place over the custard with a si30on. 

Lemon Ciistard. — Put the thin yellow rind of two lemons, with 
juice of three, and sugar to taste, into one pint warm water. As 
lemons vary in size and juiciness the exact quantity of sugar can 
not be given. Ordinary lemons require three gills. It will be safe 
to begin with this quantity and more may be added if required. 
Beat the whites to stiff froth, then the yolks, then beat both together 
pour in gradually while beating the other ingredients ; put all in a 
j)ail,_setin a pot boiling water, and stir until thick as boiled custard. 
Strain in a deep dish ; when cool place on ice. Serve in glasses. 

Snow-hall Custard -Half package Cox's gelatine, three eggs, 
two cups sugar, juice one lemon ; soak gelatine one hour in cup cold 
water, add one pint boiling water, stir until thoroughly dissolved ; 
add two-thirds of the sugar and the lemon juice ; beat whites of eggs 
to stiff froth, and when the gelatine is quite cold Avhip it into the 
whites a spoonful at a time, beating from half an hour to an hour. 
Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff pour in a mold or in 
a dozen egg-glasses previously wet with cold water and set in a coki 
place. In four or five hours place in a glass dish. Make a custard 
of one and one-half pints milk, yolks of eggs and remainder of the 
sugar, flavor with vanilla and when the snow-balls are turned out of 
the mold pour this around the base. 



122 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



Cocoa-nut Island. — Line with cake bottom and sides of dish in 
which dessert is to be served ; dissolve in custard kettle one pint 
sugar in half pint water, add one tablespoon corn-starch previously 
mixed smooth with a little water and well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; 
cook till it thickens, add juice of two lemons, heaping tablespoon 
butter and cook a few minutes then pour into dish ; grate one cocoa- 
nut, sweeten a little and ])ut over the custard ; place a meringue of 
the well-beaten whites, half cup sugar and a few drops lemon juice 
in flakes over the top, brown delicately in oven and serve either hot 
or cold. A nice way is to make in souffle dish, or baking dish that 
will fit and serve in silver receptacle, or use a fancy dish and brown 
top with salamander iron as directed in souffles. 

Floating Island. — Make custard of yolks of six eggs, one quart 
milk, small pinch salt, sugar to taste ; beat and strain yolks before 
adding to milk ; place custard in a large tin pan and set in stove, 
stirring constantly until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or 
rose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread 

smoothly over the boiling hot 
custard the well-beaten whites, 
grating some loaf sugar (some add 
grated cocoa-nut) on top ; set the 
dish in a pan of ice-water and 
serve cold ; or turn into glasses 
and serve with whipped cream or 
frothed whites of egg on top, 
finishing with lump of jelly in 
.Jam Floating isiandr ccnter. Some prepare the wMtcs 

by placing a tablesiDoon at a time on boiling water or milk, lifting 
them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and la^'ing them 
gently on the float. Do not crowd them while cooking. This is the 
"old reliable recipe." Another way of serving is to pour the above cus- 
tard over slices of small round sponge cakes, spread with fruit jelly 
;.\nd placed in ice cream saucers, piling a spoonful whipped cream 
on top of each; or cut sponge cake in slices and lay them on a round 
dish on the top of the custard. On this put a layer of apri- 
cots or currant jam, and some more slices of cake. Pile upon this 
very high a whip made of damson or other jam and the whites of 
four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruits 
or sweetmeats. Still another beautiful and delicious island is made 
by whipping whites four eggs very stiff and beating with one tumbler 
jelly, adding one pint powdered sugar gradually, then beating the 
whole until perfectly stiff. Chill on ice and serve by half filling a 
glass dish with milk and cover it with the island in spoonfuls stand- 
ing in peaks. To be eaten with sweetened cream. 

Moonshine. — This dessert combines a pretty appearance with 
palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 123 

whites of six eggs to ver}^ stiff froth, add gradually six tablespoons 
powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), 
beating not less than thirty minutes, then beat in about one heaping 
tablespoon preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup 
jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in 
each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This 
quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. 

Hidden Mountain. — Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, 
three-quarters pint cream, a layer of any kind of jam ; beat whites 
and yolks of eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding citron, 
cream and sugar ; when w^ell-beaten put in a buttered pan and fry ; 
cover with the jam and garnish with slices of citron; to be eaten 
cold. 

Orange Float. — One quart water, the juice and pulp two lemons, 
one coffee-cup sugar ; when boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, 
let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over 
four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the 
beaten Avhite of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. 

Trifle. — In the bottom of a deep glass bowl place 
bits of sponge cake, it matters not how stale, cut into, 
squares or strips; a small piece of preserved citron 
cut into slices ; soak these in cream nicely flavored, 
then fill the bowl to Avithin half an inch of the top 
with boiled custard, rich and cold ; lastly, heap the 
bowl up high with whipped cream or whites of eggs, ^^ 
and place on it nuts, fruits or jelly, cut in thin slices, ^^ 
so that they will not sink into the cream. "^ 

Trifle. 

Anibushed Trifle. — Take a round stale sponge cake, cut the top 
from it in one piece and lay it aside. With sharp knife carefully 
remove inside of cake leaving sides and bottom about an inch thick 
and coat Avell with sweet jelly or jam; crab-apple jelly is very nice. 
Scald a pint milk, beat three eggs wdth two tablespoons powdered 
sugar, and stir into milk when almost boiling ; cruml) the cake taken 
out and beat into the hot custard ; return to the hot fire and cook, 
stirring constantly, until thick and smooth, then add one teaspoon 
corn-starch wet Avith a little milk, cook a minute longer and take 
from fire ; when nearly cold flavor Avitli vanilla, lemon, or bitter 
almond, and fill the cake Avith it. CoA'er inside of the lid of cake 
laid aside Avith jelly, and fit neatly into its place. Brush the whole 
cake Avith Avhite of an egg, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, or 
frost Avith plain or boiled frosting, and set in a cool, dry place until 
wanted. A simple, delightful dessert. 

Lemon Trifle. — Strain juice tAvo lemons OA^er one large cup 
sugar and grated rind of one lemon and let stand tAVO hours ; then 





124 SOUFFLES. 



add one cup juice of any fruit preferred, and a little nutmeg. Strain 
and whip into it gradually a pint sweet cream that has been whipped 
stiff. Serve in icily glasses and send around with cake. Should 
be eaten soon ai\er it is made. 



Souffles. 



The extreme lightness and delicacy of a well-made souffle reii' 
der it a general favorite. It may be varied greatly in its composition 
and is commonly served under the name of the flavoring used. 
Vanilla is one of the most delicate flavorings for this elegant dish. 
The secret of making a souffle well is to have the eggs well Avhipped, 
particularly the whites, using for them a perfectly dry dish and 
beater as the slightest moisture will prevent their coming to a froth, 
and unless the froth of egg be very stiff' the omelette souffle will be 
made heavy by it and so spoiled. Put all ingredients together 
quickly but gently, stirring, not beating, and if to be baked place in 
oven as soon as ■whites are added in a buttered souffle dish or pan, 
filling only half full, as it will rise very light. Do not have the oven 
too hot nor open oven door for the first quarter of an hour, 
at least. When the souffle has risen very high, is of a 
fine yellow color, and quite done in the center, as it will 
be in from a half to three-quarters of an hour, send immedi- 
ately to table, for if allowed to stand it will sink in the center 
and its appearance and goodness be entirely spoiled. To keep hot, 
and i-o preserve its lightness, the souffle is often carried to table on a 
hot shovel, or with a hot salamander 
iron held over it, and placed in the 
ornamental dish already on the table, 
and yerved in a dinner of ceremony as salamander. 

an entremert, a remove of the second course roast, or for luncheon ; 
quickly hand it round instead of placing on the table. The sala- 
mander, or braising iron, is a very convenient utensil for browning 
the tups of boiled souffles, puddings and the mermgues spread over 
creams, blanc-manges, or puddings to be served cold, or in glass 




SOUFFLES. 125 



dishes, doing away with the necessity of placing them in the oven. 

r^ 'i f rf'iiiiiii 7^ ^ The souffle pan maybe of either earthenware 

^^^^i^ J or tin, and should be about three inches deep, 

I 'l Vi r I fitting into an ornamental dish for serving, 

^Sl^ ^^ -.^^pLJ^ which is usually of silver. This article will 

^^ "WL.^ ■--.:;. be found very convenient, as it may be used 

^^^^^^^^^^' for custards, puddings, scalloped oysters, 

Ornamental Souffle Dish. potato crcam, or auy dlsh scrvcd in the pan 

in which it is baked. Souffles may, however, be baked in any deep 

tin or earthen baking pan, which may be sent to table on a plate or 

platter, surrounded by a neatly folded napkin. 

Apple SouMe. — One pint steamed apples, pulped ; one tablespoon 
melted butter, half cup sugar, whites of six eggs and yolks of three, 
a slight grating of nutmeg, and a little lemon peel. Stir into the 
hot apple the butter, sugar and nutmeg, and the yolks of the eggs, 
well-beaten. When this is cold, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff 
froth, and stir into the mixture. Butter a three-pint dish, and turn 
the souffle into it. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve 
immediately with any kind of sauce. 

Cheese SouMe. — Melt a tablespoon butter, stir into it two table- 
spoons flour, add one gill milk and stir until boiling ; throw in one- 
half teaspoon each salt and white pepper and a grain Cayenne; take 
from fire and stir in one by one yolks of three eggs and three ounces 
grated cheese, beating the whole thoroughly, then add well-frothed 
whites four eggs, stirring so carefully as not to beat down the froth ; 
bake in cups in quick oven ten minutes. Serve in the cups on hot 
plate the moment the souffle is done, placing them in a napkin 
folded in basket shape upon the table. 

Chestnut SoiiMe. — Throw one pint fresh chestnuts into boiling 
water and boil until shells begin to crack open. Take from the 
water, remove shells and inner skins, pound in a mortar and make 
perfectly smooth by passing them through a sieve. Pour one pint milk 
over the chestnut-flour and stirring these together put the mixture into 
a small saucepan and let it cook over a slow fire ten minutes, melt 
a tablespoon butter and stir into it two tablespoons flour; turn this 
into the milk and chestnuts, and the instant the mixture boils take 
from fire and add two tablespoons powdered sugar, yolks three eggs, 
and beat all well together ; stir in lightly the stiffly frothed whites of 
four eggs, pour into well-greased souffle pan and bake in moderate 
oven twenty minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. 

Chicken SouMe. — Take the breast of one raw chicken, chop fine, 
and pound in a mortar, melt a half tablespoon butter and stir into it one 
tablespoon each flour and sweet cream ; when boiling take from fire 



126 SOUFFLES. 



and pour over the mixture in the mortar adding one egg ; pound 
well together, season with pepper and salt and pass through a sieve ; 
whip a gill of cream (less the tablespoon used) to a froth and add to 
the mixture ; have ready two truffles, cut into stars, and place one 
star in the bottom of each buttered cup-tin, fill half full of the souffle 
mixture, cover with greased paper, put into a pan boiling water and 
let them simmer slowly fifteen minutes ; when done turn out on hot 
platter, leaving truffles uppermost, and serve at once. 

Chocolate SouMe. — Break four eggs, whites and yolks sepa- 
rately ; add to the yolks three teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon flour ; 
three ounces chocolate, grated, and stir rapidly five minutes ; whip 
whites of eggs till firm and add them to the other ingredients. But- 
ter the souffle pan, put in the mixture and bake in moderate oven 
fifteen or twenty minutes ; strew sugar over and serve immediately, 
carrying to table V\dth hot salamander over the top. Another excel- 
lent chocolate souffle is made by melting one large tablespoon butter, 
stirring into it over the fire two tablespoons flour, adding a gill of 
milk, and when boiling remove from the stove, add nine tablespoons 
grated chocolate and a heaping tablespoon sugar, and drop in one by 
one the yolks of four eggs, stirring briskly all the time ; whip whites 
of four eggs and stir in last very lightly ; pour the mixture into the 
souffle pan, set in a pan of hot water reaching halfway up its sides, 
cover and simmer on back of range thirty minutes without uncover- 
ing ; when done, brown with salamander, set pan into souffle dish or 
envelop in a napkin ; serve at once. Or to the well-beaten yolks of six 
eggs add half pint butter, cup flour, pint milk and half cup grated 
chocolate ; bake in souffle dish in hot oven ; serve at onee. 

Chocolate SouMe. (Cold). — Two cups milk, one and a half 
squares Baker's chocolate, three-fourths cup powdered sugar, two 
tablespoons corn-starch, three eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, half 
teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk in double boiler, leaving out 
third of a cup to mix with the corn starch. After mixing, stir into 
the boiiing milk and cook eight minutes. Dissolve the chocolate 
with half a cup of the sugar and two tablespoons boiling water ; add 
to the other mixture; beat the yolks and add them and *the salt. 
Cook two minutes. Set in cold water and beat until cool, then add 
flavor and pour into a dish ; beat Avhites of the eggs to a stiff froth, 
add the remaining sugar and heap on the custard. Dredge with 
sugar and brown with a salamander or hot shovel. 

Cream SouMe. — Four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of 
salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract, one cup cream, whipped. Beat 
whites of eggs to stiff froth, and gradually add sugar and flavoring 
to them. When Avell-beaten add yolks, and lastly the whippea 
cream. Have a dish holding about one quart slightly buttered. Pour 
the mixture into this and hv^kejitst twelve mimites. Serve the mo- 
ment it is taken from the oven. 



SOUFFLES. * 127 



Jelly SouMe. — Boil one quart milk and add three tablespoons 
corn-starch wet with .a little cold milk ; stir one minute and pour 
into a bowl over beaten yolks of six eggs, Avhites of two, and one- 
half cup powdered sugar ; whip two or three minutes, put into but- 
tered dish, set in pan of boiling water in oven and bake half an hour, 
or until firm. Just before taking out cover quickly with jelly or jam 
and over this put a meringue of the four whites of eggs and a naif 
cup powdered sugar. Close oven doors for a moment till meringue 
is slightly colored. When cold serve with cream. 

Lemon SouMe. — Melt two tablespoons butter and stir into it 
four tablespoons flour ; add one ounce arrowroot, four tablespoons 
sugar and one pint milk (having previously taken one gill of the 
milk in which to steep the thin yellow rind of a lemon for flavoring), 
stir until it boils and when boiling strain into it the milk from the 
lemon rinds. Set aside and when slightly cool drop in one by one 
the yolks of four eggs, stir well together and add the frothed whites 
of five eggs, stirring them in very lightly. Turn quickly into soufile 
pan, cover and set in boiling water ; draw to back of range and let 
simmer three-quarters of an hour, keeping closely covered. Serve 
when done as quickly as possible. 

Macaroon SouMe. — Soak one-third box gelatine in half cup 
water two hours, then set over hot water and stir until dissolved, 
strain and stir it into one pint juice of any kind of fruit preferred. 
Add a half cup sugar, or sweeten to taste, place the pan on ice and 
as soon as the mixture begins to thicken whip until it hardens like 
jelly ; set away on ice. Brown ten macaroons in oven, cool them 
and roll fine. Just before ready to serve make any soft custard 
liked, omitting the flavoring, turn it into a scuffle dish, heap the 
fruit jelly on this and cover with the macaroon crumbs. 

Omelette SouMe. — Cream yolks of three eggs and three table- 
spoons sugar in a deep bowl and flavor as wished ; add well-frothed 
whites of six eggs, and with a spoon, giving it a rotary motion, cut 
the two, mixing carefully together; turn on the souffle dish (or any 
baking dish) slightly buttered, smooth, sprinkle with sugar and bake 
in moderate oven ; when risen well and of fine yellow color, serve ; 
or, for Fruit Omelette SouMe add to the well frothed whites of three 
eggs a tablespoon marmalade or fresh peaches cut in fine pieces, mix 
with pov.'dcrcd sugar and bake in a rather quick oven ; or place a 
layer of marmalade on bottom of dish and pour the omelette souffle 
over and bake. 

Omelette SouMe — Put one pint milk over the fire, reserving sufl^- 
cient to wet up three heaping tablespoons potato flour, rice flour, 
arrowroot, or tapioca, as preferred, stir this into the milk, add piece 
of butter size of walnut, and sweeten to taste. Stir over the fire un- 
til it thickens, then take off" and cool a little. Separate the whites 



128 * SOUFFLES. 




from the yolks of four eggs, beat the 3"olks, and stir them into the 
souffle batter. Whisk the whites of eggs to the firmest possible 
froth, for on this depends the excellence of the dish; stir them to 
the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence of any flavor- 
ing preferred ; pour the batter into a souffle dish, put it immediately 
into the oven, and bake about half an hour ; then take out and put the 
dish into the more ornamental one, hold a salamander or hot shovel 
over the souffle, strew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to 
table. Another delicious souffle is made by beating yolks of four 
eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt and tablespoon flavor- 
ing together, and adding quickly the well- 
frothed whites. Have a large omelette pan 
very hot. Put in one tablespoon butter and 
pour in half the mixture. Shake rapidly for 
a minute ; then fold and turn on a hot dish. 
Omelette Pan. Put tho remainder of the butter and mixture 

in the pan and proceed as before. Turn this omelette on the dish 
by the side of the other. Dredge lightly with sugar, and place in 
oven for eight minutes. Serve the moment it comes from oven. 

Orange SouMe. — Peel and slice six oranges, put in a glass dish 
a layer of oranges ; then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange 
is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks 
of three eggs, pint milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel 
for flavor, and jiour over the oranges when cool enough not to break 
dish ; beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, stir in sugar and put over the 
top ; mav be browned with salamander iron or hot shovel. Praised 
by all. 

Potato SouMe. — Clean well with a brush and bake four large 
potatoes, cut off the tops, scoop out the inside, taking care not to 
break the skins ; rub the potato through a sieve and add to it a half 
gill of boiling milk into which a tablespoon of 
butter and half teaspoon each salt and white 

pepper have been stirred ; continue stirring until _^ 

potato becomes hot, take from the fire and drop in _ Potato soume. 
the yolks of three eggs, stirring each one thoroughly with the potato 
mixture before dropping in another ; lastly, stir in lightly the frothed 
whites of five eggs, being careful not to break the froth ; fill the 
potato skins two-thirds full of this mixture, stand upright in a pan, 
and bake in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The souffle 
will be done when the finger can be pressed upon it and withdrawn 
without any adhering. Serve on hot platter. 




CONFECTIONERY. 129 



COISTFECTIOINTSRY. 



There are very few modern kitchens in which some cooking 
utensils may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce- 
pan of tinned iron, with a handle and flaring sides, and a lip to 
facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to 
such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept quite clean. 

Dissolve four pounds white sugar (granulated sugar is preferred) 
in one quart water, place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire 
for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum- 
arabic dissolved together, or white of an 
egg ; all the impurities which rise to the 
surface skim off at once. To make the 
clarifying process still more perfect, strain 
through a flannel bag. Another way to sauce-pan 

clarify sugar or syrup is to put two pounds sugar, one pint water, and 
well-beaten white of an egg into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan. 
When sugar is dissolved place over the fire, and when it boils throw 
in a cup cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. 
Bring to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan on back of 
stove or range to settle. Remove all scum and the syrup will be 
ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what 
syrup runs from it may be boiled up again ; this must also be well 
skimmed. It will take about twenty minutes for the sugar to dis- 
ifoive, and five minutes to boil. After clarifying confectioners pre- 
pare different degrees of sugars as follows : 




130 CONFECTIONERY, 



Candy or Thread Sugar. — Having clarified the sugar put syrup 
over the fire and let boil until smooth, dip a skimmer into sugar, 
touch it with thumb and and fore-finger, first dipping them in water, 
and instantly open them, when a fine short thread of sugar will 
form ; a few minutes' more boiling and the thread will be longer and 
stronger, and has attained the first degree. SoaMe Sugar. — Boil 
the syrup still longer, then dip in the skimmer and blow off the syrup. 
If l)oiled long enough bubbles will form on the holes of the skim- 
mer. The second degree is reached. Feathered Sugar. — Boil still 
longer, again dip the skimmer, shake it, and give a sudden flirt ; if 
boiled enough the sugar will fly off" like small feathers or down. 
CracMing Stigar. — Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick into the 
pan and plunging into cold water the sugar snaps and becomes 
instantly hard. Caramel or Spun Stogar. — First boil one pound 
sugar and one gill water together very quickly over a clear fire, 
skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep boiling until 
it snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If 
it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree ; then 
squeeze in a little lemon-juice and let remain an instant on the fire ; 
then set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is ready 
for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with 
this sugar,, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine 
threads or network. A dish of light paste, tastefully arranged, 
looks very pretty Avith this sugar spun lightly over it, and it makes 
an elegant coloring for any sweetmeats. The sugar must be care- 
fully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless one is 
verv experienced and thoroughly understands the work, it is scarcely 
worth while to attempt this elaborate ornament, yet if these direc- 
tions are carefully followed one may be successful. To make rock 
candy, boil the syrup a few moments, allow to cool, and crystalliza- 
tion takes place on the sides of the vessel. To make other candies, 
bring the syrup very carefully to such a degree of heat that the 
" threads" which drop from the spoon when raised into the colder 
air will snap like glass. When this stage is reached add a teaspoon 
of vinegar or cream tartar to prevent "graining," and pour into pans 
as directed in the recipes which follow. Butter should be put in 
when candy is almost done, and flavors are more delicate when 
added just after taking from the fire. To make round stick candies, 
pull, and roll into shape with well-floured hands as soon as cool 



CONFECTIONERY. ISl 




enough to handle. In making candy into flat sticks, squares, or any 
shape, indent it when partially cool with a warm knife rubbed with 
butter, and when cold it will separate easily. Colored candies are 
often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be 
avoided. In making meringues, trifles and kisses, use fine powdered 
sugar (" Confectioners' XXX " is the best grade) 
and provide a cone-shaped bag of strong, heavy 
linen or ticking — or for once using, strong 
brown paper Avill do — through a hole in the 
email end put a funnel-shaped tin tube one- 
half inch in diameter at the small end, and pro- 
vided with a flange at the other to prevent it 
from slipping quite through (these tubes are of various shapes for 
kisses, trifles, lady-fingers, etc.), tie the small end of the bag firmly 
around the tube, and holding bag in right hand squeeze the mixture 
through in shapes desired, using a good deal of pressure if cakes 
are to be large, but if small very little will do. Bake in a very mod- 
erate oven, or let dry in cool oven for two hours. The oven for 
meringues, kisses, etc., should be slower than for angel cake, and 
kept at an even temperature ; if meringues are exposed to much 
heat they will be spoiled. When powdered almonds are to be used, 
they should be thoroughly dried in the open air after blanching, and 
they will pulverize more easily. In making macaroons or drops, or 
pulling butter-scotch or taffy, butter hands lightly to prevent stick- 
ing. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to 
the candy. 

Blanched almonds should always be prepared the day before 
wanted that they may become perfectly dry before using. To blanch 
them, shell and put tliem into hot water after it comes to a boil, and 
let boil a few minutes, then throw them into cold water, slip off the 
skins and dry in the open air. Never dry them in the oven, which 
takes away the oil. Shelled almonds are more economical for use 
in cakes or confectionery. One pound of unshelled almonds only 
makes six and one-half ounces or one cofiee-cupful when shelled, 
while the shelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes 
not that per pound. The Princess is the best variety to buy in the 
shell.* The bitter almond is considered injurious to animal life and 
should be used with great caution. Of the shelled sweet almonds 
the Jordan is the finest, though the Sicely is good. To prepare 



132 CONFECTIONERY. 



cocoaiiut make an incision through the meat at one of the holes in 
the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen 
the meat, crack, take out meat, and set pieces in heater or in a cool, 
open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to 
dry — or better in open air, as too much heat 
dries the oil — then grate ; if all is not used, 
sprinkle with sugar (after grating) and 
spread out in a cool, dry })lace, and it will 
keep for weeks. Dessicated cocoanut may 
always be used in place of the fresh, first 
moistening slightly with milk. If one is at 
hand use the labor-saving grater for grating 
cocoa-nut and almonds, for which it is de- Labor-saving orater. 

signed, as well as for pumpkins, horse-radish, and such other arti- 
cles as need treatment on a coarse grater. It is fastened to a strong 
frame which is screwed to a table, and as will be readily seen does 
its work with great rapidit3\ This is as great an improvement in its 
way as the modern egg beater is over a spoon. For sending away 
home-made confections or bride's cake very pretty little satin satch- 
ets are made, which are of course much more highly prized by the 
recipients than the fancy boxes for that purpose 
to be had of confectioners. The white wire 
candy tongs illustrated are an excellent substi- 
tute for silver, where the latter can not be candy Tongi. 
afforded, for use in serving candies provided for dessert. 




Butter- Scotch. — Three pounds "coffee A" sugar, fourth pound 
butter, half teaspoon cream tartar, eight drops extract lemon ; add 
as much cold water as will dissolve the sugar ; boil without stirring 
till it will easily l)reak when dropped in cold water, and when done 
add lemon ; have a dripping-pan well buttered and pour in one-fourth 
inch thick, and when partly cold mark off in squares as directed in 
preface. If pulled when partly cold till very white, it Avill be like 
ice-cream candy. 

Hoarhound Candi/. — Boil two ounces dried hoarhound in a pint 
and a half water for about half an hour ; strain and add three and a 
half pounds brown sugar ; boil over a hot fire until it is sufficiently 
hard, pour out in flat, well-greased tin trays, and mark into sticks-or 
small squares as above. 

Lemo7i Candy. — Take a pound loaf sugar and a large cup water, 



CONFECTIONERY. 133 



and after cooking over a slow fire half an hour clear with a little hot 
vinegar, take off the scum as it rises, testing by raising with a spoon, 
and when the " threads " will snap like glass pour into a tin pan and 
when nearl_y cold mark in narrow strips with a knife. Before pour- 
ing into the pans, chopj^ed cocoa-nut, almonds, peanuts, hickory- 
nuts, or Brazil-nuts cut in slices, may be stirred into it. 

Maple Candy. — Three and a half pounds or two quarts maple 
sugar, one and a half pints water ; mix in a vessel large enough to 
hold the candy when expanded l->y heat ; boil over a brisk lire taking 
care that it does not burn. The heat should be Applied at bottom 
and not at sides. When it boils up throw in a little cold water, take 
from fire and skim well, and do this as often as impurities arise. 
After boiling fifteen minutes remove a small portion of the melted 
sugar with a spoon and cool by placing in a saucer set in cold water. 
"When cool enough take a portion between thumb and finger and if 
it forms a " string " or " thread " as they are separated, the process is 
nearly done, and great care must be used to control the heat so that 
the boiling may be kept up without burning. Test frequently by 
dropping a bit into cold water placed near ; if it becomes hard and 
brittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done. Stir in a teaspoon 
cream tartar or tablespoon vinegar, remove from stove at once and 
pour into shallow dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, covering 
each thinly. Cool until it can be handled, pull to any length or 
width desired and finish as directed in preface ; indent, separate or 
roll into sticks or make any desired shapes. Begin pulling as soon 
as possible, as it is more brittle than molasses candy. 

Molasses Candy. — Two cups molasses, one cup brown sugar and 
butter half the size of a walnut ; boil twenty minutes, then add two 
teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda and one tablespoon vinegar. 
Pull till light. Taffy : Two tablespoons vinegar, four of water, six 
of sugar (white is nicest); boil twenty minutes and pour into a 
buttered plate. 

Peanut Candy. — Boil two pounds brown sugar, one gill good 
molasses and a half pint water until it hardens in cold water when 
dropped from a spoon, and add two teaspoons vanilla, a teaspoon 
soda (dry) and four quarts skinned peanuts (measured before they 
are shelled). Turn into shallow, well-buttered pans and press down 
smooth with wooden spoon. When partially cold cut into strips. 
Unrivalled of its kind. For other nut candy use walnuts, hickory- 
nuts or almonds. Another way is to fill a buttered- tin tray to the 
depth of about an inch with the nuts, and pour over them just 
enough of the candy mixture to Jparely cover ; cool and mark as 
directed 

Cocoa-nut Patties. — Rasp a good fresh cocoa-nut on a grater, 
letting none of the rind fall. Spread the cocoa-nut thus grated on 



134 CONFECTIONEUY. 




a dish and let it stand in some cool, dry place two days to dry grad- 
ually. Add to it donhle its weight of sifted 
^ powdered sugar, the whites of six eggs, well- 
_____^_ whipped, and a cup flour to every pound 
Cocoa nut Paa If s sugax. Drop thc inlxturc ou a baking-tin, a 

spoonful at a time, or into drop-cake tins. Bake in very gentle 
oven al^out twent}^ minutes, take from tins while Avarm and when 
cold put away in close tin box or can. 

Berganiot Dro])s. — One pound sifted granulated sugar, one gil 
bergamot water, mix»d well over the fire about five minutes. Drop 
in very round drops on paper. 

Cent€7inial Drops. — White of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, 
quarter pound pulverized sugar, half teaspoon baking powder ; flavor 
with lemon ; butter tins and drop with teaspoon about three inches 
apart; bake in a slow oven and serve with ice-cream. This is also 
a very nice recipe for icing. 

Chocolate Drops. — Scrape or grate chocolate to a powder, and 
mix one ounce of it with each pound sugar used ; make into paste 
with cold water and boil up gently. Drop on thick white paper 
from a spoon to cool and dry. Coffee Drops made same way, allow- 
ing one ounce finely powdered coffee to one pound sugar. 

Cinnamon Drops. — Put one ounce cinnamon in a mortar, sift- 
ing it afterwards through a fine hair or silk sieve ; mix with it over 
the stove a pound loaf sugar moistened with a very little water. 
Take the mixture up in a teaspoon and drop on stiff white writing 
paper. Let them get cold and they Avill come off easily. Make 
Clove Drops same way. 

Cocoa-nut Drops. — One pound cocoa-nut, half pound powdered 
sugar, and the white of an egg ; work all together and roll into little 
balls in the hand ; bake on buttered tins. 

Fresh Damson Drops. — Bake some damsons, skin, stone and 
strain through a sieve. Mix enough sifted powdered sugar to make 
a thin paste, drop on paper and let them get quite dry ; then put 
them on a sieve, wetting it a little or they will stick. They must 
again dry on a stove and be kept in a box. 

Ginger Drops. — Pound and sift as much ginger as you wish 
the drops to taste of, and stir with one pound loaf sugar and a little 
water over the fire' until it boils up. Drop and dry on paper. 

Lemon Drops. — Squeeze the juice from six good lemons and 
add sifted loaf sugar until so stiff it can hardly be stirred ; put in 
shallow saucepan and stir over the fire five minutes. Drop from a 
spoon on thick paper. 



CONFECTIONERY. I35 



Lemon and Peppermint DrojJS. — Set a quantity of granulated 
sugar and a little Avater over the fire in a saucepan with a lip, in the 
proportion of two ounces water to one pound sugar. It must not 
come to a full boil, but remove from stove just as the bubbles that 
denote the boiling point is reached begin to form; let cool a little, 
stirring rapidly, add strong essence lemon or peppermint to taste, 
and drop as uniformly as possible on sheets of manilla paper, tilting 
the vessel slightly and stroking off the drops from the lip Avith bit 
of stiff wire or a spoon. Keep in a warm place for a few hours to 
dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting juice of fresh 
fruits for essence, or using any other essence preferred. 

Orange Drops. — Squeeze out the juice of three good lemons, 
adding some sifted poAvdered sugar ; grate six small SAveet oranges, 
put all in a shalloAV pan on the fire till it is of a nice thickness, stir 
continuously Avith a Avooden spoon five or six minutes. Take the 
mixture from the fire and drop it on thick Avhite paper in small 
drops. 

Orgeat Drops. — Pound aa'cII in a mortar four ounces blanched 
almonds, moistening Avith a little Avater, and make a paste. Flavor 
with orange flower Avater, strain the Avhole through a cloth, moisten 
Avith half pound poAvdered sugar and form into drops on paper to 
dry. 

Straioherry Drops. — One-half pound each juice and poAvdered 
sugar, well-frothed Avhites of tAvo eggs ; mix all together and drop 
on tins, putting in very cool oven to dry. Any Fresh Fruit Drops 
made same Avay. 

Ev'rton Cream Candy. — Squeeze juice of one large lemon into 
a cup ; boil one and one-half pounds moist Avhitc sugar, tAvo ounces 
butter, one and a half cups Avater, together Avith half the rind of the 
lemon, and Avhen done (Avhich may be knoAvn by its becoming quite 
crisp Avhen dropped into cold water) set aside till boiling has ceased 
and then_ stir in the juice of the lemon, butter a dish and pour in 
about an inch thick ; Avhen cool take out peel (Avhich may be dried), 
pull until Avhite, draAV out into sticks ai]d check about four inches 
long AA'ith a knife. If you have no lemons, take tAvo tablespoons 
vinegar and tAvo teaspoons lemon extract. The fire must be quick 
and the candy stirred all the time. 

French Cream. Candy. — Put into a saucepan one pint water to 
each pound sugar ; boil carefullv, for upon this depends the success 
of the candies; Avhen it has boiled ten minutes (do not stir Avhile 
boiling) it is time to try it ; drop from the spoon into a boAvl of ice 
water and if Avhen it falls to the bottom you can take it up between 
the thumb and finger into a soft ball, which must not be sticky, it is 
at the right point. Set from the fire, and if Avhen cool a thin, jelly 



136 CONFECTIONERY. 



like film forms over the surface, it is properly done, and the candy 
may be made ; but if the coating over the top seems at all sugary 
aud the candy is Avanted creamy and nice, a few spoonfulls of water 
must be added and the syrup returned to tlie fire and boiled until 
the proper consistency is reached, which test as before. Do not let 
it become the least brittle ; if it does, add water and cook again. A 
pinch of cream tartar helps to check the tendency to return to sugar. 
When the syrup is perfectly done and cooled so that the finger may 
be borne in it, beat rapidly with a spoon, and in ten minutes it 
should be a white paste resembling lard, which can be worked like 
bread dough. This is the foundation for all fine candies and is called 
by French confectioners Fondant. The simplest French candies are 
made from this by coloring yellow and flavoring with lemon, or pink 
and flavoring with raspberry, and working into balls, cones, shells, 
grooved cones, or any shape fancy dictates, and letting them stand 
until they harden. Or into the pink colored fondant work chopped 
English walnuts, flavor with vanilla, press into oiled paper cases an 
inch wide and deep, and three or four inches long, and when firm 
turn out and cut into cubes for Walnut Creams. Or use chopped 
almond, leaving the paste white, flavor with vanilla, and make 
Vanilla Almond Cream. Work into a piece of the paste or fondant 
chopped almonds, citron, a few currants and seedless raisins, flavor 
Avith lemon, vanilla or raspberry, shape in paper forms and the result 
is Tutti Frutti Candy. One" should bring into use the inventive 
faculties and with the above as helps make as niany other varieties 
as wished. A very handsome variety is called R'lhhon Cream Candy 
and is made thus : Divide a quantity of the paste prepared as 
directed into three equal parts, leaving one white, color one pink 
with cochineal and another brown with melted chocolate, flavoring 
each to taste ; divide the brown and white into tAvo parts, making into 
strips an inch and a half Avide ; make the pink also into a strip of 
same Avidth and length, Avhich Avill leave it tAvice as thick as the 
others. Lay a strip of the broAvn on a piece of manilla, or buttered 
or waxed paper, then a strip of Avhite on that, then the pink, then 
the white, and finish with the broAvn ; press lightly to make them 
adhere but do not squeeze out of shape ; leave a fcAv hours to harden, 
trim smoothly Avith a knife and cut crossAvise into slices half an inch 
thick, lay on Avaxed or manilla paper to dry, turning occasionally, 
and pack away in boxes. If the paste becomes hard Avhile working, 
let it stand OA'cr hot Avater a fcAV minutes ; or if Avished fresh for 
dessert, do not diA'ide the colors but form 
into a small brick, as in cut, AA'ith broAvn 
layer first, then the pink, with Avhite on top. 
Place on small fruit plate and serve by 
cutting in thin slices. Cream Walnuts or 
Almonds are made bv shelling and drying R'"^"" <^'^'"" ^andy. 

the nuts and then dipping into the paste, first melted over boil 




CONFECTIONERY. 



137 



ing water until it is like cream. If the nut shows through the cream 
it is too hot and must be set out of the water and beaten until cool and 
thick enough to thoroughly coat the nuts. If it hardens return to 
the boiling water. Dry the creamed nuts on maniila paper. 
Another variety of nut candy is made by rolHng the paste into balls 
and placing half a whole kernel of walnut, almond, or other nuts on 
each side, pressing it in until it adheres firmly. Chocolate Creams 
are made by boiling a half pound sugar and three tablespoons thick, 
sweet cream, till it makes a soft ball in water ; let it cool, then beat 
till it is very white, flavor with a few drops vanilla and make into 
balls size of a small marble ; warm some unsweetened chocolate and 
mix it with a piece of the melted paste (using more chocolate than 
paste) until quite smooth and thick enough to coat the creams. Drop 
the balls into this with a fork and take them out to dry on waxed 
paper. 

French Cream Candy (Uncooked).— Used by all confectioners. 
Mix whites of two eggs and their bulk in water in a large bowl ; beat 
very well, add a dessert-spoon vanilla and about two pounds "XXX" 
confectioners' sugar finest grade of powdered sugar), well sifted, 
beat well, and the paste is ready Take one-half pound dates, 
remove stones, put in a piece of the candy paste and roll each one 
in granulated sugar. For Fig Candy, split one-half pound figs 
and place a layer of the dough on a board, first sprinkled well Avith 
powdered sugar to prevent its adhering, then a layer of figs, again a 
layer of dough, and cut in squares. Nuts of any kind may be made 
up into candy by using the meats for the foundation or inside of 
little balls of paste, and then roll in coarse sugar; set each kind out 
in a cool jdace to harden. For Chocolate Creams roll any number 
of balls size of small marbles from the dough and when they are 
hardened dip Avith a fork into some baker's chocolate melted on the 
stove. Be careful not to allow it to boil; better to melt in a little 
cup placed in pan of hot water on the stove. Cocoa-nut Candy 
may be made by rolling out another portion of the dough on the 
floured board, sprinkle with cocoa-nut, roll a few times with the 
roller, and cut into squares. A mixture of cocoa-nut and nuts 
chopped fine makes a delicious candy. ¥ ox English Walnut Candy 
split the walnuts, shape some of the dough into round flat balls, 
place a half of the nut on each side and press firmly. Use hickory- 
nut meats for Hickory-nut Candy. This candy is now being made 
in society circles a good deal, as there is no cooking to be done and 
it is very easy and clean work. A dollar's worth of all the ingredi- 
ents together will make many pounds of candy. 

Lemon Cream Candy. — Steep grated peel of one lemon in juice 
of two one houi and strain, squeezing cloth hard to get out all the 
strength ; boil six pounds best white sugar with three cups water 
until it hardens in cold Avater ; stir in the lemon juice, boil one min- 



138 CONFECTIONERY. 



nte, add one teaspoon dry soda, stirring in well, and turn out upon 
broad, Bhallow, l)uttered dishes. Pull as soon as can be handled into 
long white roi)es and cut into lengths when brittle. Use same recipe, 
substituting vunilla flavoring instead of lemon for Vanilla Cream 
Candy. 

Chocolate Caramels. — One cup chocolate shaved fine, one cup 
molasses or brown sugar, half cup milk or one cup cream, one cup 
sugar ; when nearly done, if millc is used, add a piece of butter size of 
a Avalnut; when cream is used no butter will be needed ; stir until 
perfectly dissolved but not after it begins to boil, as that will make 
it grain ; it is done when it hardens and becomes brittle Avhen 
dropped in cold water, but do not make too hard ; grease plates with 
butter, pour it on about half an inch thick ; when nearly cool cut 
with a buttered knife into small squares. 

Chocolate Caram^eis. — One ana a half cups grated chocolate 
four of brown sugar, one and a half of cold water, piece of butter size 
of an egg, tablespoon very sharp vinegar ; if liked, flavor with two 
tablespoons vanilla just before removing from fire; do not stir, but 
shake the vessel gently while cooking ; boil on the top of stove over 
a brisk fire until it becomes brittle when tried in water ; pour into a 
well buttered and floured dripping-pan, and check off in squares 
while soft. 

Cocoa-nut Caramels. — One pint milk, butter size of an egg, one 
cocoa-nut grated fine (or dessicated cocoa-nut may be used), three 
pounds white sugar, two teaspoons lemon ; boil sloAvly until stiff 
(some then beat to a cream), pour into shallow pans and when partly 
cold cut in squares. The butter may be omitted. 

Cocoa-nut Cones. — Pound one pound blanched and shelled 
almonds in a mortar with whites of twelve eggs till smooth. Prepare 
and grate three large cocoa-nuts, and with three pounds sugar w^ork 
into the pounded almonds and eggs, mold into cones size of an 
English walnut, place on buttered paper a little distance apart and 
bake in moderate oven. Dust with powdered sugar before baking, if 
liked. 

Mwple Chocolate Creams.-Two and a half cups maple sugar, one- 
half cup cold water or cream ; boil until it makes a soft ball in cold 
water ; place the saucepan in cold water, and bea,t till cold enough to 
make into little balls ; take half a cake of Baker's chocolate, shave of!' 
fine, put in bowl on top of boiling tea-kettle to melt, and when balls 
are cool enough, roll in the chocolate with a fork. This makes 
eighty. Or while making into balls, mold an almond-meat into the 
center of each ball, roll in coarse sugar, and you have delicious 
Cream Almonds. Or, mold the unbroken halves of walnut-meats 
into the soft sugar, and when cold, roll in the chocolate. When 
finished, take out and lay on buttered paper until cold 



CONFECTIONERY, 



139 



Kisses. — Beat wliites of four'smaii eggs to a high, firm froth, 
stir into it a half pound sifted powdered sugar, two teaspoons at a 
time, flavor with essence of lemon or rose, and beat very light ; then 
squeeze through the meringue or confectioner's bag heretofore 
described (using tube like one in cut if you have it), or drop 
half the size of an egg a little more than an inch apart on ma- 
nilla paper spread over a half inch board, previously soaked in 
cold water, and place in moderate oven. As soon as they begin to 
look yellowish take them out. 

Almond Macaroons. — One pound blanched almonds ground 
very fine with a little sugar to keep from oiling, rub whites of twelve 
eggs, without Avhipping, into the almonds until perfectly smooth. 
Add one and one-half pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces corn- 
starch and two ounces flour, stirring each in grad- 
ually and thoroughly ; make into balls with a knife 
or meringue bag, place on ungreased papers on 
_ Macaroons. tlus aud wlth a pastry brush dampen each one and 

pat into shape before putting in oven. Chocolate Macaroons are 
made in exactly the same manner,working two 
ounces chocolate cooked with one-half cup water* 
and one ounce sugar into the almond macaroon Pastry Bn.sh. 

paste when ready to make into balls. Make Hickory-nut and Pecan 
Macaroons in same way, taking the finely-chopped nut meats instead 
of almonds, and omitting the flour, using four ounces corn-starch. 

j^emon Macaroons. — One pound powderea sugar, four eggs 
whipped very light, juice of three lemons and grated peel of one, 
one heaping cup flour, heaping teaspoon baking powcler, one-half 
teaspoon nutmeg ; butter the hands, take up small lumps of the 
mixture and make into balls the size of a walnut. Bake in brick 
oven on sheets of manilla paper, placing them more than two inches 
apart. 

Pyramid of Macaroons. — Boil loaf sugar to the candy point 
(see preface candy), rub butter over the outside 
of the tin or paper form, set firmly on a plate 
or table, and begin at the bottom by putting a 
row macaroons around it, sticking them to- 
^^ther with the prepared sugar, then adding 
aaother row, and so on until finished. When 
the cement is cold the pyramid may be taken 
from rh? form. Kisses, or cocoa-nut drops, be- 
ing lighter, are more difficult to make in this 
fovm than macaroons. 

Meringues. — One pound powdered sugar, whites of nine eggs ; 
\fh\]) eggs until dish can be inverted without their falling off, and 
Chen simply add the sugar, two teaspoons at a time, incorporating it 




140 



CONFECTIONERY. 




thoroughly, but stirring as little as possible ; put together quickly 
#li& and when properly made the dough will stand up stiffly if cleft 
1 / with a knife. The dough, or a part of it, is sometimes colored 
I / with cochineal ; have ready either hickory or maple boards three- 
^ fourths of an inch thick, to fit oven, soak them fifteen minutes 
in cold Avater and cover them with strips of heavy manilla paper 
about two and a half inches wide ; on these drop the mixture from 
the end of a dessert-spoon (or use the meringue bag), giving the 
meringues the form of an egg, dropping them about two inches apart 
on the paper, and bake till a light brown. They should bake very 
slowly, as the longer they are baked the thicker the crust will be. 
Leave the oven door open for a lialf hour at least. 
Take up each strip of paper by the two ends, turn 
it gently on the table, and with a small spoon 
take out the soft part of each meringue, strew 
over them some sifted sugar and return to oven 
bottom side up to brown. This recipe makes four 
dozen double meringues and they ma}^ be kept for 
weeks. When Avanted for table, fill with whipped^ 
cream, ice-cream or jelly, place two of them 
together so as to inclose the filling and serve. To 
vary their appearance, finely chopped almonds or currants may be 
strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over, and they may 
be garnished Avith any bright colored preserve. Or, instead of mak- 
ing above shape, form the meringue dough into half balls about six 
inches in diameter; dry them in the OA^en A^ery 
sloAvly, so that the crust is about one-third of an 
inch thick. When emptied of the soft interiors 
and Avlien cold, two shells are placed on a platter 
like an open clam shell, and the Avhipped cream 
(already set by being on ice) is banked between them, as shoAvn in 
cut, reaching as high as suits the fancy. The cream may be deco- 
rated Avith l)errios, sliced nuts or candied fruits, or served Avithout 
ornamentation. 

Marsh-Malloiu. — Take one pound each gum arable and fine 
sugar, half a pint of the decoction of marsh-malloAV root, two or 
three drops essence of neroli, or a small quantity of orange flower 
water and Avhites of six eggs ; pulverize the gum arable very finely, 
after Avhich place it in a round-bottomed basin (Avhich must be A'ery 
clean and bright). Add to it one and a half pints water, place it upon 
a slom fire to dissolve, stirring it constantly 
AA'ith a Avooden spatula or paddle to prevent its 
adhering to the bottom and scorching. When 
it is entirely dissolved strain through a fine 
Avire strainer into a clean basin. Noav add the 
decoction of marsh-malloAV and sugar, place over a sIoav fire (one cov- 
ered AA'ith a thin layer of ashes), and cook to a thick consistence, stir- 





CONFECTIONERY. 141 



ring constantly ;add well-whipped whites and continue stirring Avithout 
intermission in order to whiten it and also to prevent its sticking to 
the pan, which would discolor and entirely spoil the paste. Test it 
by placing the back of the hand upon the paste ; if it does not 
adhere to it, it is done. Add the neroli or the orange flower water, 
continue to stir a few minutes longer, then place on marble slab well 
dusted with starch or sugar powder. Flatten out and dust with 
starch powder, and Avhen it has become cold cut it into strips or 
pieces. Keep in tin boxes well powdered with starch in order to pre^ 
vent it from sticking. Cover boxes tightly so as to keep the air from 
it as much as possible. This is the genuine and original marsh-mal- 
low paste, the best article that can be made. Some dispense with the 
mallow root on account of its unpleasant taste and in lieu thereof use 
apple juice, or a decoction of apples, which is supposed to be equally 
good and to possess the same healing qualities as the mallow. Others 
again use only pure water in the preparation of this paste. It is then 
simY)\y j)ate (/e ffomme, although its appearance is precisely the same 
as that of mallow paste. It is also sometimes flavored with extract of 
vanilla or raspberry juice, and sold aapate de guimauve. 

White Nouqat. — Ten pounds white sugar, half gallon strained 
honey, three pounds l)lanched almonds, one tablespoon oil of lemon. 
After the sugar is melted and strained cook until nearly done ; have 
the honey boiling and pour on the sugar in the kettle ; set it on the 
fire again and when it boils up well pour out on a greased marble ; 
add the oil of lemon. When cool enough to handle turn it up and 
bleach on a candy-hook ; when white take off and spread it on the 
marble and sprinkle the blanched almonds over it, fold up and 
spread out again, adding more almonds. Continue working it over 
the same way until all the almonds are worked in, then form into a 
long bar and cut up in square pieces. 

Pop-coi'ti Balls. — Dissolve one ounce white gum arable in half 
pint Avater, strain, add one pound granulated sugar and boil until 
when a little is cooled in a saucer it becomes so thick as to be 
stirred with difficulty. Pour over a half bushel of freshly popped 
corn and when well stirred up the kernels will adhere in a mass ; 
form into balls by pressing Mith the floured hands. Ordinary mo- 
lasses may be used for this purpose boiled to same degree, no gum 
being necessary. Pop-corn Cake is prepared the same, putting the 
mass while warm into tins and pressing with rollers into thin sheets, 
afterwards dividing them into small square cakes. 

Everton Taffy. — Use broAvn sugar, and to each cup take quarter 
pound very best butter ; put into a clean, bright basin or pan and 
melt together over a brisk fire, stirring constantly with a wooden 
spatula, adding a fcAV drops lemon juice. Ten minutes' boiling wall 
bring it to the desired degree, the crack., which may be known by 
dropping a little upon a cold plate or saucer ; if it hardens at once, 



142 CONFECTIONERY. 



it is done ; add lemon or vanilla flavoring just before the cooking is 
completed ; pour it into buttered pans or on a marble table (slightly 
buttered), and, when cool enough, cut or mark it with a greased 
knife into square tablets ; loosen it from the marble by running a 
knife under it before it becomes entirely cold. This is the real 
English recipe and and is the favorite confection of all true Britons. 

HlcTiory-nut Taif)j. — Two pints maple sugar, half pint water, 
or just enough to dissolve sugar ; boil until it becomes brittle ^^^. 
by'dropping in cold water ; just before pouring out add table- (Slg^ 
spoon vinegar ; having prepared the hickory-nut meats in ^^"^ ^" 
halves, butter patty pans well, line with the meats, and pour taffy 
over them. 

French Trifles. — These are made same as kisses, but the board 
upon which they are baked should not be wet, that they may 
harden through. A cut of tube to be used in confectioner's 
bag when shaping them is here given. 

Sugar Threads. — Boil sugar until brittle, put a few drops on 
buttered form and draw out the thread. If sufficiently cooked the 
thread can be twisted into any shape. If it becomes too cold to 
work, heat again." . 

Kiss Wafers. — Half pint blanched bitter almonds, heaping 
cup powdered sugar, whites of six eggs, one-third cup flour, two 
tablespoons corn-starch ; blanch the almonds and pound them in a 
mortar, adding as soon as they are broken the white of an egg. 
Pound until very fine. When there is a smooth paste add the sugar, 



a little at a time, the whites of two eggs, one at a time, and the flour 
and corn-starch. When thoroughly mixed, add by degrees the three 
remaining whites. Butter the bottom of a flat baking pan and put 
the mixture on it in spoonfuls ; spread it very thin, especially in the 
center, and bake in a quick oven. The moment the cakes are taken 
from the oven roll into the shape of cornucopias. If allowed to 
cool they cannot be rolled, and for this reason it is best to bake only 
half a dozen at a time. 'When all are shaped, fill with the kiss mix- 
ture made by beating whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and stir- 
ring into them, light Iv, four tablespoons powdered sugar. Place the 
wafers in a warm oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, to dry. 
With the quantities given two dozen can be made. 

Cochineal Coloring. — This is said to be quite harmless and is 
made by taking one ounce each powdered cochineal, cream tartar, 
two drachms alum and a half pint water. Boil cochineal, water and 
cream tartar till reduced one-half, add the alum and put into small 
bottles. Use to color candies, cakes, blanc-mange and jellies. 



CANNING FRUITS. 148 



OAlSnsriNG^ FPMJITS. 



In order to work intelligently, the princii^le applied in canning 
should be understood. The fruit is prepared by placing it in a 
vessel from which the external air is entirely excluded, and this is 
effected by the use of heat to rarefy and expel the air that may be 
entangled in the mass of fruit or lodged in its j)ores. The preserva- 
tion of fruit does not depend upon sugar, though enough of this is 
generally used to make it palatable. The heat answers another pur- 
pose ; it destroys the ferment which fruits naturally contain, and so 
long as they are kept from contact with the external air they do not 
decompose. 

Fruits for canning should be selected carefull}^ and are much 
better if gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning 
sun upon them, if possible; they will then have their fullest flavor, 
and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any 
other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed in the dairy, 
an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain fresh 
and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather 
will soon be mildewed. All imperfect and over-ripe fruit must be 
rejected. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, etc., are in the best 
condition to can when not quite fully ripe, and should be put up as 
soon as possible after picking. An easy way to peel peaches is to 
place them in a wire basket, to the handle of which a cord has been 
tied, let down into boiling water for a moment (some use strong 
white lye), then into cold Avater, and strip off the skin. This is 
called the dipping process. The fruit must be at a certain stage to 
be prepared in this way, for if too green it will not peel, and if too 



144 CANNING FRUITS. 



ripe it will be too much softened by the hot water. Peaches, pears, 

and all large fruits should be thrown into 
^•*^w_ J==^ p i^^iin Lt^ an earthen vessel of cold water as soon as 
Paring K.nie. peeled,as exposure to the air darkens them. 

But the fruit should not stand long in the water, as it will soon be- 
come soft, and it is better to prepare only enough for one can at a 
time. Cooking reduces peaches ahout one-half and pears one- 
third. Small fruits, such as berries, should never stand overnight 
if it is possible to avoid it, and should neve?' be put in tin. The 
highest-flavored and longest-keeping fruits are best put up without 
paring, after having carefully removed the down with a fine but stiff" 
brush. Use only the best sugar in the proportion of half a pound 
of sugar to a pound of good fruit, varying the rule, of course, with 
the sweetness of fruit. Fine granulated sugar is the best for can- 
ning. In canning for pies man}' omit sugar, as the natural flavor is 
better preserved without it, and some prefer this method for all pur- 
poses ; several recipes without sugar are given. It is econom- 
ical, and well worthy of experiment. Cans put up in this way 
should have a special mark to distinguish them from the rest. 
Before beginning the work of canning have ready all the neces- 
sar}' utensils, which include the following : A thin-bladed, sharp, 
steel knife which should be often wiped off" during the paring pro- 
cess (though a silver knife is 1)etterwhen fruit is wanted extra nice), 
an earthen vessel to hold fruit after it is peeled, scales for weighing, 
or two pint measures, one each for measuring sugar and fruit, a por- 
celain-lined or granite ironware kettle with lip (a six-quart kettle is 
a good size and two will be found convenient), a tin skimmer for 
removing the scum, a silver or thoroughly clean wooden spoon 
(never use any other in fruit), a silver knife for one-quart cans or 
round wooden stick for two-quart ones for expelling the air from 
cans after filling, a silver fork or a broom splint for testing cooked 
fruit (a steel fork discolors), a wide-mouthed fun- /^H^ — 
nel or can-filler made to set into the can, though a ^1;.. ^iW^ "" 
small tin strainer or dipper of the right size with- ^^n^^ 
out a bottom will do, a wire spoon for lifting the /^^^^^ 
larger fruits, a bright tin dipper (if old or rusty it || 

will discolor the fruit), or a small pitcher or large "^ 

cotfee-cup with handle for dipping syrup and small can-nuer. 
fruits, and a small handled strainer for dipping small fruits as de- 



CANNING FRUITS. 145 



scribed with recipe, a large pan with heavy folded towel in bottom 
on which to stand cans while lieating, and plenty of holders and 
towels for lifting from Stove and wiping ofi' cans. Canned fruit is 
much nicer if syrup is strained Avhen pouring into can, and for this 
purpose make a strainer of cheese-cloth cut round and large enough 
to sink into can-filler, and run a fine wire or string into the top to 
tie or hold it in place, or use handled strainer as given above. 

The cans must be thoroughly cleaned and tested to see if any 
leak or are cracked. If tin cans leak send them to the tinner ; if 
discolored inside they may be lined with writing paper and are thus 
used by many with success, but glass cans are always preferable. In 
buying stoneware for canning purposes be sure that it is well glazed, 
as fruits canned in jars or jugs imperfectly glazed sometimes become 
poisonous. Never use defective glass cans, but keep them for stor- 
ing things in the pantry, and in buying them, take care that they 
are free from flaws and blisters, else the glass will crumble off in 
small particles when subjected to heat. Self-sealers are very con- 
venient, those with a porcelain-lined screw top being the best, the 
Mason ])referred. (The improved JMason has a glass top held in 
place by a metal band screwing doAvn over the can, and these are not 
reliable.) The "Almy" is highly reconnnended by many. The heat 
hardens the rubber rings used on self-sealers but new ones may now 
be procured at any furnishing store. Most of the earthenware and 
tin cans have a groove around the top for sealing with wax or putty ; 
sealing with the latter is most convenient as the jars can be opened 
readily with a strong fork or knife, and are much more easily cleaned 
than when wax-sealed. Putty may be bought ready for use, and is 
soon made soft by molding in the hand. In using it should be 
worked out into a small roll, and pressed firmly into the groove with 
a knife, care being taken to keep it well pressed down as the can 
cools. Sealing-wax is bought ready prepared or can be made of two 
parts resin to one part beeswax melted together. In sealing pour wax 
over covers, filling the grooves, and break the air bubbles that rise 
witli the wet finger, adding more if necessary to make air tight. 
Fruit intended for transportation should be put up in tin cans with 
the flat tops that are soldered on, as if shipped in glass the danger 
of breakage is great, and if the tin cans sealed with resin or putty 
are used bits are liable to crack off^ letting the air in and so spoiling 
the fruit. 



146 CANNING FRUITS. 



There are several ways of preparing glass cans for fruit, among 
them the following : Wring a towel from cold water, double and 
wrap closely about and under the can so as to exclude the air, and 
fill ; or, put a towel in a steamer, set in the cans, and place over a 
kettle oicold water; boil the water, and when ready to fill, remove 
the cans and wrap in a towel wrung from warm water ; or wash the 
cans in tepid water and at once pour in the boiling fruit, but not too 
fast ; and in any method used always pour* into the center ; or, 
when ready to can fruit, place the glass jars in a large pan of warm 
water on the back of the stove, in which a thick folded towel has 
been previously placed to guard against too great heat for the bot- 
tom of cans, placing the covers on the stove in a smaller vessel of 
water, make ready the syrup in the clean porcelain-lined or granite 
ironware kettle before mentioned, put in the fruit — it is better to 
prepare only enough fruit or syrup for two or three cans at a time — 
and by the time it is done the water in the pan will be hot and the 
cans read}^ for use. Peaches and pears are properly cooked when 
they can be pierced with a silver fork. Use the wire spoon for lift- 
ing the larger fruits from the S3^rups and a silver fork to help place 
in the cans, which should be done closely and compactly but care- 
fully, filling around the sides first, turning the inside halves of the 
fruit outward. Put in as much fruit as possible and then fill up 
with the hot syrup, first t3dng on the little cheese-cloth strainer here- 
tofore described, which catches all loose particles of fruit and makes 
a clearer syrup. Berries should be cooked from five to fifteen min- 
utes, according to the ripeness of the fruit. When done place the 
can-filler in the can, fill to within a half inch of the top with hot 
fruit, always pouring into the center, and using for 
this purpose the bright tin dipper (if a pitcher or 
cup is used it must first be heated to prevent crack- 
ing), then place on a hot platter, remove to table, wipe off upper 
parts and put on the rubber rings ; be sure these are perfect and 
close-fitting, throwing away all that are imperfect; let stand two or 
three minutes, or till other cans have l)ecn filled, when the fruit will 
have shrunk away a little ; fill almost to top with the hot syrup, or 
if you have none, boiling water from the teakettle will do Now 
carefully insert a silver knife into the cans, putting it in at the sides 
80 as not to bruise the fruit, let it touch the bottom, and push gently 
around to remove the air bubbles, slowly pressing and withdrawing 



14-7 
CANNING FRUITS. ^^* 



from all sides until the bubbles cease to come up ; seal at once, first 
filling to overflowing so that when the covers arc screwed down the 
eyrup squeezes out around the edge, taking care when canning ber- 
ries or tomatoes that none of the seeds overflow and are left on the 
rubber rings under the covers. Many insert a spoon in cans before 
fiUincr and use the spoon to remove the air bubbles ; in cannmg ber- 
ries this answers very well, but the knife is better, especially for 
peaches, pears and all the larger fruits, as it is not so hable to bruise 
them and slips in easier around the sides. In the two-quart cans a 
round wooden stick may be used for this purpose, neither knife nor 
spoon being long enough. Wipe off the cans with cloth wet m 
hot water and also inside of covers, in seahng, first screw on the 
covers as closelv as possible with the hand, and as the cans cool 
turn down with the can-tightener, which always comes with the cans, 
this is a great help as it is impossible to screw covers on perfectly 
tight with the hands. Care must be taken to have the rubber ring 
show an even surface all round, for if it slips back at any point air 
will be admitted. When this is found to be the case take off the 
cover, find a ring to fit perfectly and re-seal (it may be necessary to 
add more syrup, which must squeeze out again as cover is tightened). 
Remove the cans from the hot platter and place where no 
current of air will strike them, wringing out a towel from 
hot water on which to stand them. When other cans are 
filled remove these to another part of table and set those filled last 
on the towel. After all are canned re-tighten the tops ; this retight- 
ening is very important and the tops must be turned down again, and 
agnin, the glass contracting as the fruit cools. Letthe cans stand over 
niQht hottom side ujj ; in the morning turn down covers again with 
the can-tightener, wrap well in paper, tying it on to exclude all hght, 
label— the gummed labels that can be purchased in book form ready 
to cut and use are very convenient— and place in fruit closet or cel- 
lar. Where one can have a small room in cellar, with one or more 
windows, place shelves around the sides on which to put stone 
jars of pickles, preserves, jam, etc. It is nice to make in one corner 
a fruit closet with a door, and shelves arranged in heights to fit one 
and two-quart cans and jelly glasses ; then each shelf or part of shelf 
can be labeled with the fruit or j elly placed upon it. Have in upper part 
of door a small piece of window wire put in, or two or three augur 
holes made to admit the air. In Ueu of this closet many bury cans 



148 CANNING FRUITS. 



in boxes of sand. Light injures all fruits, but especially strawber- 
ries. The place should be dry and dark and cool, but where there is 
fresh air; if too warm the fruit will spoil, as heat makes it fer- 
ment and dampness causes mold. Cans should be examined two or 
three days after filling, and if syrup leaks out from the rim they 
should be unsealed, the fruit thoroughly cooked and kept for jam or 
jelly, as it will have lost the delicacy of color and flavor so desirable 
in canned fruits. 

When canning a quantity of fruit, after removing the first lot of 
cans from the pan of hot water the water must be made tepid before 
setting in the remaining cans, then heated gradually to boiling again 
and kept hot until those cans are filled, repeating thus until all are 
done. If at any time there is not fruit enough to fill a can it may 
be left standing partly filled in the hot water until more fruit is 
cooked, then filled and removed like the rest to the hot platter. It 
is always best to cook a small quantity of fruit, either large or small, 
at a time (not more than one or two quarts of the large varieties, 
and two or three of berries) that it may be done evenly. If a large 
mass is cooked at once that in the bottom will be done sooner than 
that on top, and if stirred to secure uniformity its shape will be 
injured. It shordd also be cooked slowh/ to preserve the form, and 
the larger fruits after being put in the syrup must be watched very 
closely and each piece taken out and placed in can as soon as it be- 
comes tender, as some pieces will cook in much less time than oth- 
ers. In canning berries use as little water as possible, and some can 
successfully without water. To better preserve the form of fruit 
many place it in the cans raw, cover with a hot syrup and cook by 
placing in a boiler of water. The same object is attained by first 
steaming the fruit, and when done carefully removing to the boiling 
syrup a moment or two, then place in cans when steamed tender, or 
place at once in cans and fill up with hot syrup, testing by pierc- 
ing with a silver fork. The cold process has also been successfully 
tried by good housekeepers, and considering the amount of labor 
saved is certainly worth an experiment by all. Recipes are given 
for each method. To clarify sugar for canning break a pound of 
loaf sugar in small pieces, put on the stove in porcelain-lined or 
granite ironware vessel with half pint water and well-whisked white 
of one egg. Have a cup of cold water ready and throw in a little 
when the sugar begins to rise, skim and let rise thus three times, 



CANNING FRUITS. 149 



skimming until clear, then strain througli a flannel bag and when 
cool bottle for use. Scientists claim that cane sugar when added to 
boiling fruit is converted to grape sugar which has far less sweeten- 
ing power than cane sugar, and advise housekeepers to SAveeten 
fruits when brought to table for consumption instead of before can- 
ning. AMien dissolving sugar for syruj) it sliould be stirred con- 
stantly to prevent scorching. A good projiortion for syrup for can- 
ning is one pint sugar to one quart water, which is enough for a two- 
quart can of fruit. 

The flavor of canned peaches is improved by adding two or 
three whole peaches or dropping in the center of each can a few of 
the stones. Many leave the stone attached to one half, and others 
cook a number of stones with the fruit, then blanch as almonds and 
put meats in the cans. Peaches are sometimes canned whole, and 
the clingstone varieties are of course always put up in this way. 
Before peeling Avith a knife it is well to rub the fuzz off peaches with 
a coarse towel. Many parboil quinces before peeling. In preparing 
grapes it is better not to press the skins too closely, to avoid the 
formation of the disagreeable small particles, or what are called 
" clinkers,'-' in the canned fruit. As the acid is not fully developed 
until the fruit is thoroughly ripened this may be avoided also by 
canning before fully ripe. Currants are nice mixed with an equal 
weight of raspberries, and pears are improved by adding quinces or 
lemon peel. Equal quantities of quince and apple canned together 
will taste as if quince entirely. For ordinary'family use quart cans 
are better for peaches and the larger fruits, two-quart cans for toma- 
toes and other vegetables, and pint cans for berries. Strawberries 
keep their color best in stone jars ; if glass cans are used for them 
they should be buried in sand. If syrup is left after canning ber- 
ries it may while thin be flavored with vinegar, boiled a moment and 
then bottled and corked for a drink mixed with ice-water; or add 
the proportion of sugar given in recipes for jellies, allowing for the 
sugar used in canning, and make into jelly. All skimmings from 
fruits can be added to the vinegar barrel. 

If tin cans which are closed with resin or soldering are used, 
great care should be taken that none drops into the can, as a single 
drop of resin will often make the whole can bitter. By covering 
first with a piece of cloth or white paper cut to fit the top, this will 
be avoided, and wetting this with brandy or alcohol tends to help 



150 CANNING FRUITS. 



preserve the fruit. On opening tin cans rememljer to pour all the 
fruit into an earthen or glass dish. If any part is not used at the 
time, recook and return to dish, and it will keep for a day or two, 
many of the less perishable fruits longer. Or if put up in self-seal- 
ing glass cans the fruit or vegetables left over will keci> a day or two 
by simply returning to the cans, screwing on the cover and setting 
in refrigerator. Wines, cider, shrubs, etc., must be bottled, Avell 
corked, sealed, and the bottles placed on their sides in a box of sand 
or sawdust. To can maple syrup, pour hot into cans or jugs and 
seal well. Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds and some of 
the smaller fruits, such as plums, cherries, currants, etc., harden 
when put at first into a syrup of their own weight of sugar. These 
should first be boiled tender in water, or in a very weak syrup, and 
the rest of the sugar added afterward. Fruits which become soft too 
readily and fall to pieces may be hardened a little by pouring the 
hot syrup over the fruit, or strewing part of the sugar over it and 
letting it stand awhile to draw out the juice ; or it may be skimmed 
out of the syrup after cooking a few minutes, placed in the sun two 
or three hours, and the boiling syrup poured over it afterward. As 
many recipes for canning give proportions in pounds, the table of 
weights and measures in back part of book will be found a conven- 
ient reference when scales are not at hand. A bushel of peaches 
makes about twelve or thirteen quarts, and pears almost twice as 
many as peaches ; .a bushel of either blackberries, blueberries or 
raspberries makes about nineteen quarts, and strawberries about 
sixteen or seventeen. The above estimates are given from tests, but 
no really definite rule can be given, as some use more or less syrup 
in canning, and a great deal depends upon the ripeness of fruits. In 
opening a can without the can-tightener, as that answers for opening 
self-sealers if hard to open, insert the point of a thin-bladed pen- 
knife or other instrument beneath the rubber and push it in towards 
the neck, which lets in the air, and the top can then be readily un- 
screwed. «When not in use the rubber rings may be left in, not on, 
cans, but the tops should not he screioed on, as the cans will become 
musty if kept closed. Keep the covers (best place also for rubbers) 
in a box or basket near the cans. Those who use tin cans advise 
throwing them away after the second year, as the fruit acids dam- 
age the tin. All cans, jars or bottles, should be carefully washed 
as soon as emptied, taking care that the stoppers and covers 



CANNING FRUITS. 



151 



have their share of attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia 
into the jars or bottles, fill up with water, 
and let stand an hour, putting the stoppers 
or covers into a bowl to soak in the same 
way. Then pour out ands cald nicely, but 
not with boiling water, as that .cracks the 
polished surface inside ; wipe dry, set in 
the sun or wind to air, and then set away 
carefully. It is often difficult to remove 
the tops of glass jars when screwed on, on 
account of the slippery nature of the glass. The holder represented 
in the cut Avill be understood at a glance. It clasps and holds the 
jar without danger of breaking it. 

The following table gives the time required for cooking and the 
quantity of sugar to the quart for the various kinds of fruit. By 
observing these rules and the general directions given above any 
fruit may be successfully canned. However, for convenience, a 
number of valuable recipes are appended. 

Qviant. 




Time for 

b iling 

f uit. 

Bar Ictt pears, halved 20 min 

Blackberri s 6 " 

Blncberrries 5 " 

Cherrie 5 " 

Goose erries 8 " 

Peaches, .r 8 " 

Peaches, whole 15 " 

P^e-plant, sliced 10 " 

Pine-apples, sliced 15 " 

P.ums 10 " 



sugar 
to qt. 
6oz 
6 " 

5 " 

6 " 
8 " 
4 " 
4 " 
8 " 
6 " 

10 " 



Time for 

boiling 

fruit. 

Quinces, sliced 30 min. 

Raspberries 6 " 

Ripe Currants 6 " 

Siberian crab-apples 25 " 

Small sour pears, whole.. . 30 " 

Sour apples, quartered 10 ■' 

Strawberries 8 " 

Tom toes 30 " 

Whorflcberies 5 " 

Wild Grapes 10 " 



Quant, 
sugar 
to qt. 
10 oz, 

4 " 

8 " 



A quart of stemmed currants or berries by measure weighs one 
and a quarter pounds. 



Canned Berries. — Select those the skins of which have not 
been broken, or the juice will darken the syrup ; fill cans compactly, 
set in kettle of cold water with a cloth beneath them, over an even 
heat ; when sufficiently heated pour over the berries a syrup of white 
sugar dissolved in boiling water, cover the cans closely to retain heat 
on the top berries. To insure full cans when cold, have extra cans 
of berries heated in like manner to supply the shrinkage. If the 
fruit swims pour off surplus syrup, fill with hot fruit, and seal up as 
soon as fruit on top is thoroughly scalded. In using this or any of 
the following recipes refer to the preface above for general directions. 

Canned Berries. — Pick out stems or hulls if any — if gathered 
carefully the berries will not need washing, put in porcelain kettle 
on stove, adding a scant cup water to prevent burning at first. 



152 CANNED FRUITS. 




When they come to a boil, skim well, take off all surplus juicej keep- 
ing it for jelly, add sugar to taste (for pies it may be omitted), or a 
half pound sugar to each pound fruit, let boil 
'i'/ik-S!^^^ five minutes, fill in glass, stone, or tin cans, 
using a small strainer for di])])ing berries so 
that tiie quantity of juiee ])ut up may be reg- 
Handie strainer. uUited, filling 111 the julce With dlppcr. The 

strainer if of size to fit m cans may be set into them and syrup 
poured through instead of using the cheesecloth strainer described. 
Seal Avitli putty unless self-sealers are used. This rule applies to 
all berries and small fruits. 

Canned Blaclcberrhs. (Without water.) — Place fruit in preserv- 
ing kettle, sweeten as for eating, or add sugar according to above 
table, let stand on back of stove until dissolved, then draw gradu- 
ally to the front, keep at lioiling j)oint long enough to thoroughly 
cook the fruit, skimming well, and can as previously directed. All 
berries may be ]iut up in this way, blueberries requiring less sugar 
than other varieties, and some can Peaches and Pears thus. 

Canned Cherries. — Boil moderately five minutes the propor- 
tion of six ounces sugar to each cpiart stoned cherries ; or make a 
syrup of one pint water and three pounds sugar, add cherries and 
cook as above. Can as in general directions. 

Canned Crah- Apples. — To each pound fruit allow half pound 
sugar, and a pint water to three pounds sugar. When the syrup is 
boiling hot drop in the apples. They will cook very quickly. Or 
better, steam till tender, place in syrup a moment, then fill cans with 
fruit and fill up with syrup. 

Canned Currants. — Look them over carefully, stem and weigh, 
allowing a pound sugar to every one of fruit ; put in kettle, cover, 
and leave to heat slowly and stew gently for twenty or thirty min- 
utes, then add the sugar, and shake the kettle occasionally to make 
it mix with the fruit ; do not allow it to boil, but keep as hot as pos- 
sible until the sugar is dissolved, then pour it in cans and secure the 
covers at once. White currants are beautiful preserved in this way. 

Canned Gooseherries.— Cut off tops and stems and cook the 
berries in water until white, but not enough to break them ; put into 
cans with as little water as possible, fill up the can with boiling 
water and seal ; when opened pour off water and cook like fresh 
berries. Or put berries into wide-mouthed bottles, cork or put on 
covers, and set in ves'Sel of cold water on the stove until it boils. Do 
not boil long enough to break the berries, Take usual precautions 
in sealing. Will keep a year in a dry place. 

Ca7ined Gooseberries. — Prepare and place in a large pan, pour 
boiling water over tliem, let stand until cold ; fill jars as full as you 



CAFNIiD FRUITS. 



153 



can, pour boiling water over them, be suro it covers the berries, then 
8eal. You will find berries as solid as when first gathered. 

Canned Grapes.— ?ic\ grapes ofi' stems, wash in cold water 
and squeeze= the pulps into an earthen dish or preserving kettle, 
throwing skins into another. Boil skins with a very little water 
until tender, and pulps until seeds separate, then strain through a 
colander (to remove seeds) into dish with the skins. Add sug;iir_to 
taste, or half as much sucar as fruit, stew and can as other truits 
To can Green Grapes halve them, extract the seeds with a small 
knife, sweeten, cook as above, and can. 

Canned Peaches. (With vinegar.)— Pour boihng water over one 
ppck of large clingstone peaches to remove the fuzz ; niake a syrup 
of three pounds sugar and one pint vinegar, using a little water if 
required to cover the peaches ; cook until pretty soft, and can as 
usual. 

Canned Peaches.— JliWQ one porcelain kettle with boiling water 
and another with a svrup made sweet enough with white sugar for 
the peaches, well skimmed, or clarified according to directions m 
preface ; pare, halve, and drop the peaches into the boiling water, let 
remain until a silver fork will pierce them, lift them out with a wire 
spoon, fill can, pour in all the boiling syrup the can will hold, and 
seal immediatelv. Continue in this way, preparing and sealing only 
one can at a time, until done. Or, rich proportions for the same 
recipe are seven pounds sugar and seven gills boiling Avaterfor the 
syrup, SAveetening the water in which peaches are cooked, using two 
pounds sugar to 'three quarts water. Boil down the water in the 
first kettle with the svrup if any is left ; if not, add more sugar and 
quite a nice marm-alade will result. This manner of canning peaches 
has been thoroughly tested, and is pronounced by the experienced 
the best of all methods. 

Canned Peaches.— When wanted extra nice for prize competi- 
tion, or for use on " state occasions," select with great care fruit of 
uniform size and shape and all perfect. Peel with a thin sharp sil- 
ver fruit knife, which does not discolor, dropping as soon as pared 
into an earthen vessel of water to prevent the air from darkening 
them. As soon as fruit enough for one can is pared put up by lay- 
ing piece by piece in the can, turning the inside of halves from 
which stones were removed, outward, which gives a handsome ap- 
pearance, and fill up with syrup as clear as crystal, placing the 
cheese-cloth strainer over the filler. Screw on covers without the 
rubbers, stand cans in wash-boiler on slab or a board perforated with 
holes, or a folded towel with a towel between them (some use straw 
or hay), fill up with cold water to within two or three inches ot top 
of cans, graduallv bring to a boil and boil fifteen minutes. Draw to 
back of stove to let steam pass off, roll the hand in a towel, lift cans 



154 CANNED FRUITS. 



out and pLace on hot platter. Take off covers and let out air bubbles 
with a knife, as directed in preface. The fruit will settle some and 
the contents of one or two cans will be needed to till up the others ; 
prepare for this purpose nearly a fourth more cans.. Fill up, put on 
rubbers, seal and put away according to previous directions. The 
same process may be used for canning all kinds of fruit. 

Canned Peaches. — Prepare peaches and weigh out half a pound 
best loaf sugar to each pound fruit. Sprinkle a little sugar in a deep 
earthen bowl, put in a layer of peaches, then one of sugar, and so 
alternate until closely packed, covering top with sugar; cover 
lightly and let stand ten or twelve hours. Drain juice off into pre- 
serving kettle, let come to a boil, put in peaches, and as fast as 
pieces swell sufficiently take out with rdiver fork and place in air- 
tight glass jar. When filled pour txie Doiling syrup over, filling to 
top and seal at once. Peaches and other fruits prepared in this way 
have been kept three or four years. 

Canned Peaches. (Cold) — Pare and halve peaches and pack 
closely as possible in cans without sugar, and pour in enough cold 
water to fill to brim. Let stand long enough for w^ater to soak into 
all crevices — six hours or so — then let out air bubbles with a silver 
knife, fill up again with cold water and seal. Canned thus, peaches 
retain all their freshness and flavor. A cold syrup may be used 
instead of water if preferred, but peaches taste most natural without 
sweetening. Can pears same way. 

Canned Peaches. (Steamed.) — After peeling, seed and place in 
a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, first laying a cloth in bot- 
tom of steamer ; fill about half full of fruit, cover tightly, make a 
syrup in a porcelain kettle for fruit alone, lot the fruit steam until it 
can be easily pierced with a silver fork, drop gently for a moment 
into the hot syrup, place in the cans, fill, cover, and seal. The above 
recipe is for canning a few at a time. This recipe, applies equally 
well to pears. 

Canned Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed ; make a syrup of a 
pint granulated sugar to a quart water (enough for two quart-cans) 
place on stove in porcelain kettle and when syrup boils, skim, and 
drop in enough fruit (two quarts halved peaches) for a one-quart 
can ; watch closely, test and can as in general directions. Add more 
peaches to the hot syrup for next can, and repeat the operation. If 
there are more peaches than wdll fill the can, place them in another 
can and keep hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. 
Apples may be canned in the same manner. 

Canned Pears. — Prepare and can precisely like peaches in pre- 
ceding recipes except that they require longer cooking. When d^one 
they are easily pierced with a silver fork. Some add a half pint 
peeled and quartered quinces to every tAvo quarts halved pears ; cook 



CANNED FRUITS. 155 



quinces fifteen minutes before adding pears. More quinces may be 
added, but the above is an excellent proportion for Pears With 
Quinces. 

Canned Pie Plant. — Cut pie plant in pieces two inches long, 
put over a slow fire with its weiglit in sugar; when sugar is dis- 
solved let boil slowly until clear, but do not cook long enough to 
become dark colored. Put up in air-tight cans. 

Canned Pie Plant. (Cold) — Skin and cut as for pie, fill 
glass cans full as possible, shaking down wliile packing, then fill up 
with pure fresh cold water, let stand a little while and expel the air, 
add more water, then screw on covers. No cooking or heating. Will 
keep pe'rfectly, aTid fruit will be as nice and fresh when opened as if 
just brought from garden. 

Canned Pine-apple. — Peel and slice, or pick to pieces with 
silver fork, make syrup in proportion of three-fourths pound 
best white granulated sugar and one cup water to each pound fruit, 
boil five minutes, skim or strain, add the fruit and let it boil (cook- 
ing long discolors it) ; have can hot, fill and seal up as soon as pos- 
sible. Or, peel and grate on coarse grater, rejecting cores ; using 
above proportions, put in an earthen vessel sprinkled with sugar, 
first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, thus alternating until all 
is used. Cover, let stand overnight, and in the morning bring to a 
boil, boil one minute and can immediately. 

Candied Pine-apple. — Pare and be careful to cut out the eyes, 
chop fine, weigh, and add to it same weight of sugar ; mix thor- 
oughly, let stand twenty-four hours and (without cooking) fill cans 
full and seal tight. Look at them in about two weeks, and if there 
are signs of working, pour into a kettle, heat through and put back 
into cans. 

Canned Plums. — "Wash and put whole into a syrup made in 
the proportion of a pint watcT and a pound sugar to every two 
pounds fruit ; boil eight minutes, can, and seal immediately. If 
pricked with a fork before placing in syrup they will be less liable 
to burst. Cherries, damsons, and green gages are canned in same 
way. The large white plums must be skinned by using the dipping 
process as for peaches. 

Canned Plums. — Wipe good sound fruit with a cloth and place 
carefully in cans ; pour boiling hot water over them and seal while 
hot. Grapes put up in same way are nice for pies. 

Canned Quinces. — Pare and quarter the fruit, and take out all 
the cores and the hard place around them. Boil the fruit in clear 
water until tender, then spread on towels to dry. For one pound 
fruit allow half pound sugar and one pint water for three pounds 
sugar. When syrup is boiling hot put in fruit, and let it cook very 



156 CANNED FRUITS. 



slowly ; or, set back on the stove so that it hardly cooks at all, and 
keep on for an hour or more, if you can without its cooking to 
pieces — as the longer it cooks, the brighter red color it will be. Put 
it in jars, and strain the syrup over it, as with other fruits. Can ap- 
ples or pears at same time and add to them when first put on a half 
pint quinces (and juice) cooked in syrup as above half an hour. 

Canned Strawherries. — Fill glass cans with fresh, whole straAV- 
berries, alternating layers of berries and sugar, in the proportion of 
half pound sugar to pound berries ; lay covers on lightly, stand in 
wash-boiler and proceed as in third recipe for peaches. Great care 
must be taken to keep the berries whole and round ; as the cans cool 
invert them occasionally to prevent the fruit from forming in a mass 
at one end. Damsons may be put up in same wa}', cooking until 
soft but not broken. StraAvberries are very nice put up as peaches 
in fourth recipe. 

Canned Strawherries. — For every quart fresh strawberries take 
one coffee-cup white sugar, add a tablespoon or two of water if there 
is no juice in the bottom, to prevent burning before the heat brings 
out the juice ; as soon as fruit boils add the sugar, and stir gently 
for a few minutes until it boils up again, and can immediately. Or 
make a sja'up of one pound sugar and as little water as possilile, add 
three pounds berries and cook sloioly for twenty minutes. The 
color and flavor of the strawberries depend upon gentle cooking. 
Cherries and Gooseberries are nice canned- same way. It is better 
not to cook any more fruit than can be put into one glass fruit-jar. 
Usually a few spoonfuls syrup will be left with which to begin the 
next can. Another method is to stem the largest, finest ber- 
ries obtainable, put into cans, giving them a shake occasionally 
while filling to settle them, and fill in with a rich syrup, using only 
just enough water to dissolve sugar, first boiling it ten minutes, then 
seal. Strawberries are considered difficult to keep, but there need 
he no troul)le if the fruit is fresh, closed air-tight in glass, and kept 
as directed in general directions for canning fruits. 

Canned Straicherries. — Put four pounds white sugar in a ket- 
tle, add a cup cold water, let boil till perfectly clear, then add four 
quarts nice berries. Boil ten minutes, keeping them covered Avith 
syrup, but avoid stirring in order to preserve their good appearance. 
Take out berries Avith a small strainer or skimmer, place in cans, fill- 
ing about three-quarters full, and let the syrup boil ten minutes 
longer, and fill each can with it. Let stand till cool, then cover AA'ith 
a tal)lospoon brandy (take out a little juice if necessary), scrcAV on 
the lid and put in a dry, dark place. This method is claimed to be 
the only means of preserving the peculiar flaA^or of the strawberries. 
If after tAVo or three Aveeks the least fermentation appears, put the 
cans in a boiler (on a small board to prcA^ent contact Avith bottom), 
fill with cold Avater nearly to top of cans, loosen the lids, but do not 



CANNED VEGETABLES. 157 



take them off, let water boil for a little while, then take out cans, 
tighten the covers and the berries will keep over a year. Fully ripe 
currants and acid cherries canned in same manner, one pound of 
sugar to one of dressed fruit, are delicious. They never need a sec- 
ond boiling if carefully prepared. 

Canned Watermelon. — Cut rind of ripe melons (first cutting 
off all green parts) into small pieces two or three inches long, and 
boil in water until tender enough to pierce with fork ; have a syrup 
made of white sugar, allowing half pound sugar to pound fruit; 
skim out melon and place in syrup together with a few pieces race 
ginger, let cook a few minutes, put in cans and seal as in general 
directions. 



Canniiiii: Vegetables. 



All vegetables intended for canning should he perfectly ire^h. — 
especially is this true of corn — and of the best quality. To prepare 
corn, cut with a sharp di;nife through the center of every row of 
grains, and cut off the outer edge ; then with the back of the blade 
push out the j^ellow eye, with the rich, creamy center of the grain, 
leaving the hull on the cob. Or, simply cut off with a knife, being 
careful not to cut too close to the cob, and sc^rape down the cob 
with the back of the knife to get all the rich milk. Eemove the 
skins from tomatoes in the usual way, by covering with boiling hot 
water, but do not let them stand in the water but a moment or two 
or they will be softened more or less, and if to be canned whole 
their shape will be injured. A bushel of tomatoes makes about 
twenty quarts. Peas and beans should l)e shelled jrist hefore can- 
ning. String-beans are prepared as for ordinary cooking. The very 
complete directions given in "Canning Fruit" preface for preparing, 
filling, sealing and putting away cans should be consulted and fol- 
lowed in canning vegetables. Especial care should be taken to ex- 
clude the light from tomatoes, as it causes the formation of citric 
acid, which no amount of sugar will sweeten. For this reason many 
prefer earthen or tin cans for tomatoes, but they can be put up suc- 
cessfully in glass, Avhen they should be buried in sand or oats : or 
simply wrapped in paper and set away in a box or cupboard in a 



168 CANNED VEGETABLES. 



dry, cool cellar they keep perfectly. When put up in tin all vegetar 
bles must be turned out as soon as the can is opened. If the whole 
is not used the remainder may be kept a day or two by salting 
slightly and placing in refrigerator. If put up in glass set away in 
can. 



Candied Beans. — Take Lima, biitter or caseknife beans, cook as 
for the table, boiling one hour ; season with pepper and salt and fill 
jars quite full, seal carefully as directed, and they will keep the 
year round- 

Canned Corn. — Dissolve an ounce tartaric acid in half cup water 
and take one tablespoon to two quarts sweet corn ; cook, and while 
boiling fill the cans. When used turn into a colander, rinse with 
cold water, add a little soda and sugar while cooking, and season 
with butter, pepper and salt. 

Canned Corn. — Cut sweet corn from cob, put a handful or two 
into the can, then a pinch of salt, also a pinch of sugar; take a 
potato masher or anything else convenient that will go in the can, 
and press corn down as close as possible, then repeat putting in 
corn, salt and sugar as before until the can is full ; seal up and set 
away with other fruit. Be sure and not put in any more salt than 
is required for seasoning when cooked. To cook it, simply turn from 
the bottle and cook as you would fresh corn. Or cut the corn from 
cob, pack in glass cans, pound the corn as hard as possible without 
breaking cans ; screw on top but not tight. Put on boiler with cold 
water and proceed as in third recipe for peaches. After putting on 
rubbers, screw tight, put back into the Avater, sot the boiler off the 
stove ; let the cans stand till morning, take out, tighten the covers, 
and keep in a dark place. Can Peas and Beans same way. 

Canned Corn. — Pick sweet corn when milk-ripe, or if bought,nave 
as fresh as possible ; cut from the cob and scrape to get the juice, 
fill tin cans and seal air-tight, surround Avith straw to prevent strik- 
ing against each other, and put into a boiler over the fire Avith 
enough cold Avater to cover. Heat the Avater gradually and AA'hen 
they have boiled an hour and a half, puncture the tops of the cans 
to alloAV the escape of gasses, then seal tliem immediately while they 
are still hot. Continue to boil them for two hours and a half. In 
packing the cut corn in the can the liberated milk and juices sur- 
round the kernels, forming a liquid in AAdiich they are cooked. Peas 
and Bt^nis are canned same AA'ay. 

CannedCornand Tomatoes. — Scald,peel and slice tomatoes,(not 
too ripe) in the proportion of two-thirds tomatoes to one-third corn ; 
put on in a porcelain kettle, let boil half an hour, and can immedi- 



CANNED VEGETABLES. 159 



ately in tin or glass (if glass keep in the dark). Some take equal 
parts of corn and tomatoes, preparing them as above. Others, after 
cutting the corn from the cob, cook half an hour in custard kettle ; 
prepare the tomatoes as above, cooking in a separate kettle twenty- 
minutes, adding the corn in the proportion of one-third corn to two- 
thirds tomatoes, mixing well until they boil up once ; then can as 
in general directions. 

Canned Pumpkin. — Peel, scrape the pulp and seeds, cut in 
small pieces, put in a close-fitting steamer and steam two hours ; 
then put in a kettle ; to every quart add two ounces sugar, boil five 
minutes and can. Or, after peeling and removing seeds cut into 

Eieces three or four inches square, stand in oven on the rind and 
ake until done, when it will peel out of the shell easily. Then 
mash and can while hot, sealing as fruit. Cannot be told from 
fresh. 

Canned String- Beans. — String fresh string-beans, break in sev- 
eral pieces, cook in boiling water ten minutes, and can like tomatoes. 

Canned Succotash. — Cook Lima beans and corn as for eating in 
the proportion liked, either half and half, or with a less quantity of 
beans, and can. 

Canned Tomatoes. — The tomatoes must be entirely fresh and 
not over-ripe ; pour over them boiling water, let stand a few minutes, 
drain off, remove the skins, and slice in small pieces into a stone 
jar, cutting out all the hard or defective portions ; some add a little 
salt; cook for half an hour, or as for eating, in their own juice, 
skimming off" the scum which rises, and stirring with a wooden 
spoon or paddle ; can and seal as in general directions ; put up in 
glass, wrap in paper and keep in dark place. Tin or stone cans may 
be used. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Take ripe, round, firm tomatoes, freshly 
gathered and not too large to go into the mouth of cans. Prepare 
only enough at one time to fill one or two cans and drop them at 
once into the preserving kettle in which should be ready some toma- 
toes cut fine. Boil until heated through, then put into cans, filling 
up with the cut fomatoes in which they were cooked and seal. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Skin tomatoes as usual, place on sieve to 
drain and pack as solidly as possible in cans ; then set cans in boiler 
of cold water, heat up and boil half an hour, and fill and seal as in 
third recipe for peaches. 



160 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



CATSUPS AISTD SAUCES. 



Always select perfect fruit ; cook in porcelain or granite 
iron-ware, never in brass. In making catsup, instead of boil- 
ing, some sprinkle the tomatoes with salt and let them 
stand overnight, then strain and add spices, etc., and a 
little sugar. Bottle in glass or stone, and never use tin 
cans ; keep in a cool, dry, dark place. If on 
opening there is a leathery mold on top, care- 
''"'"''■• fully remove every particle of it and the catsup 

will not be injured. To prevent this molding some do not fill the 
bottles quite to the top with catsup, but fill up with hot vinegar. 
If tlicie are white specks of mold all through the catsup it is spoiled. 
If on t)pening and using a part there is danger that the rest ma}' 
sour, scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Sauces should always 
be made with great care in a pan set in hot Avater, having the sauce- 
pan bright and clean if a delicate flavor is desired, especially if the 
sauce is draM-n butter ; or the custard-kettle will be found conven- 
ient, as the stock or other foundation may first be heated quickly by 
piitting the inner kettle on the stove, and when ©ther ingredients are 
added and there is danger of burning place again in the outer ket- 
tle made ready with boiling water. Butter and those sauces con- 
taining eggs should never boil. Wooden spoons or paddles must 
be used for stirring. A set of pad- ^^^m^^hmjh^mihhbbhj^ 
dies of different sizes will be found ^^■^^^■^■^■^^^^^^^^ 
convenient for stirring sauces, gravies, spatuH. 

mushes, and many other dishes, and Avill not scratch or mar the 
kettle or pan. When necessary to scrape down the sides of kettle 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 161 




in which catsup or other mixtures of like character are being cooked, 
an artist's spatula will be found the best utensil and should be pro- 
vided in every kitchen rather than destroy the temper of sharpened 
knives by heat. 

The i^ulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and 
wonderfully retains the ^ - ■■ j r= ■ ^.... .. ^ sb.--^" — -^ -'^ 

flavor, notwithstandin g; 
all the ingredients added. 
Use a fine wire sieve or 
strainer in their prepara- 
tion — the extension 
strainer is the most convenient — and a good rule is to allow for every 
quart of the juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of 
cinnamon, one teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper corns ; boil 
all down one-third, then skim out spices, add sugar, boil till thick, 
reduce to a proper consistency with vunegar, and bottle for use. 
This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and all kinds of berries. 

The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of 
the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of 
the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the va- 
rious viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in 
order that they may harmonize and blend with them perfectly, and 
in serving do not pour over but around the meat. Sauces should 
possess a decided character, and Avhether sharp or sweet, savoury or 
plain, the}^ should carry out their names in a distinct manner, al- 
though, of course, not so much flavored as to make them too piquant 
on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, 
generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as white sauces, and 
it is well to bear in mind that when intended to mask the various 
dishes of poultry or meat, they should be of a sufficient consistency 
to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. 
For browning and tliiekening sauces, etc., browned flour may be 
properly employed. The caramel coloring answers very well for 
sauces and gravies, but when they can be mnde to look brown b,y 
using browned flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far 
preferable. As, however, in cooking so much depends upon appear- 
ance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use 
the caramel. When no browning is at hand to heighten the color of 
sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire ; 



162 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 




when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. 
Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would 
impart a very disagreeable flavor. 

Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is 
all the m.ore necessity for the cook to see to this point, as from their 
being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to 
cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. The lain marie 
will be found almost indispensable for this purpose. This is a large 
open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling) water at the back of 
the stove or range or in some warm place. In this several stew- 
])ans, or large tin cups with covers and hand- 
les, are fitted which are intended to hold all 
the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot until 
the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. AVlien 
a dinner is delayed, there is no better way of 
keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their "^Bain Ma 

flavor. If a lain marie is not among the cooking utensils a large 
dripping-pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or 
lay two or three bricks on back of stove or range on which to set 
sauces, vegetables, etc., until ready to serve. 

Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part 
should be well stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to 
them, and must never be allowed to boil, as they would instantly 
curdle. White pepper is a much nicer seasoning than black for 
sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color and has not so 
pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soups, sauces and 
gravies is prepared as follows: Bring butter just to the boiling 
point in a small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until 
well cooked. This, when not cooked brown, is "White Roux," and 
when browned, "Brown Roux." Thin this with a part of the soup, 
sauce or gravy, and add it to the whole, stirring thoroughly. The 
flour may be browned before using if intended for brown gravies or 
sauces. A richer thickening is made in the proportion of the yolks 
of three eggs to eight tablespoons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, 
add the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the 
sauce it must be stirred during the whole time or the eggs will cur- 
dle, and the mixture should only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is 
lumpy after adding thickening rub again through a sieve. Melted 
butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in place of oil in all 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 163 




recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be thick- 
ened with potato flour, ground rice, 1:)aked flour, arrowroot, etc. ; the 
latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. 
Milk or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter 
is better, giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. When any 
green coloring is used if lemon juice is to be added it should not be 
put in until just before sending to table. Any flavored vinegar pre- 
ferred may be used instead of the plain. An English salt sold by 
most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and all cooking, giving a 
more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste 
found so objectionable in most salt. Where a 
sieve is to be used in making sauces, use the 
puree sieve. 

Herbs for seasoning are usually dried dur- 
ing the summer. The best kinds are sage, thyme, plTree sieX 
sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay leaves, 
cloves, mace, celery seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven 
first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the Avindow sill, or in a 
sunny spot in the 5^ard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather 
and dry as follows : Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June 
and July, just before flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, 
marjoram and savory in July and August ; basil and sage in August 
and September; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and 
dried by artificial heat ; their flavor is best preserved by keeping 
them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. Mint, 
when used in recipes, usually means "spearmint" or "green mint," 
though pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The 
young leaves of from one to six inches in length are the parts used. 
It grows on any good garden soil, but comes forward earlier in a 
warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by cuttings or dividing the 
roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific, and ought to find a 
place in every garden. Those who have conservatories should keep 
a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would ap- 
pear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the 
stalks just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some 
dry, shady place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in 
paper bags and keep in a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a 
very nice addition to the flavoring of sauces, and may be used in- 
stead of the fresh celery when the latter is out of season. Pickled 



164 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given under Pickles, Avill be 
found a good substitute for capers and is often used. Gherkins, 
(small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead 
of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter 
is used in the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or vinegar 
is to be added, always make it Avitli Avater, never with milk, as the 
combination of the latter witli the acid would be most unwhole- 
some. 

The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with 
vinegar, or still more, with hoiling water, materiall}'' checks the 
development of those peculiar principles on which its pungency or 
strength almost entirely depends, and cold water may cause it to 
ferment. It should therefore be mixed with water that has been 
boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup with a 
small pinch of salt and mix Avith it very gradually sufficient water 
to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and 
mix well, rubbing the lumps down with the back of a spoon until 
smooth, and do not add flavoring until this paste is made. Mustard 
is much better freshly made, and only a small quantity should be 
mixed at once. 



Barherry Catsup. — Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, 
four quarts cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four 
small onions, all stewed with a quart of water and strained. Mix 
these ingredients with the barberries and add half cup vinegar, 
three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar, one dessert-spoon' each 
ground clove and ground allspice, two tablespoons each black pep- 
per and celery seed, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each 
cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil 
one minute ; if too thick add vinegar or water. With the quantities 
given about three quarts of catsup can be made. 

Cherry Catsup. — One pint pure cherry juice, half ])ound sugar, 
teaspoon each ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup 
and bottle. 

Cucumber Catsup. — Peel, seed and grate on coarse grater, one 
dozen large green cucumbers ; put the pulp in a large towel and 
wring out all moisture that can be extracted ; peel and grate or chop 
fine four large onions and mix with the grated cucumber, adding 
one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon 
salt, half pint salad oil or Am.erican Cooking Oil, and sufficient vin- 
egar to make as thin as ordinary catsur). ^\'hen all are thoroughly 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 165 



blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in top 
of each jar and seal air-tight; or peel and chop three dozen cucum- 
bers and eighteen onions very fine ; sprinkle over them three-fourths 
pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight ; add 
a cup mustard seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and 
cover with good cider vinegar. 

Currant Catsup.— ¥om pounds fully-ripe currants, one and a 
half pounds sugar, tablespoon ground cinnamon, teaspoon each salt, 
ground cloves and pepper, pint vinegar ; stew currants and sugar 
until quite thick, add other ingredients and bottle for use; or, take 
juice of five pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, 
two tablespoons ground cinnamon, one each of cloves, allspice and 
black pepper, one grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Cook one-half 
hour. 

Elderberry Catsup).— Vick from the stalk as many ripe elder- 
berries as are wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough 
stroiig vinegar to cover them, bake in a hot oven three hours and 
strain while hot. Boil the liquor thus obtained with cloves, mace, 
peppercorns and four or five shallots, enough to give a considerable 
flavor ; taste, and when flavored as liked, jDut in one-half pound of 
the best anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir and boil only until 
dissolved ; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing bv dip- 
ping corks in hot sealing-wax. 

Grape Catsup.— Y^oW, and strain five pounds grapes through a 
colander, add to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds 
sugar, one tablespoon each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pep- 
per and a half tablespoon salt. Boil again until a little thick, bottle 
and seal. 

Gooseberry Catsup.— 'Nine pounds gooseberries, five pounds 
sugar, one quart vinegar, three tablespoons cinnamon, one and a half 
each of allspice and cloves ; the gooseberries should be nearly or 
quite ripe. Take off blossoms, wash and put them into a porcelain 
kettle, mash thoroughly, scald and put through the aglander, add 
sugar and spices, boil fifteen minutes and add the vinegar cold ;' bot- 
tle immediately before it cools. Ripe Grapes prepared by same rule 
make an excellent catsup. 

Zemon Catsup.— One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a 
pound of ground mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne 
and allspice, one gallon of cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, 
filteen large lemons ; slice the lemons, add the other ingredients, let 
simmer from twenty to thirty minutes, place in a covered iar stir 
every day for seven or eight weeks, strain, bottle, cork and seal. 

Z?W Catsup.— Ruh a very fresh beef liver thoroughlv with 
rolled salt and place it in a vessel that will not crush it ; turn and 



166 SAUCES AND CATSUPS. 



rub thoroughly for ten days, then mince into small dice and boil in 
a gallon of water closely covered until reduced to three quarts ; strain 
through a sieve and let settle till next day ; add one ounce each gin- 
ger and allspice and two ounces whole black pepper, and boil slowly 
until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle and keep well corked. 

Oyster Catsup. — Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient 
to fill pint measure ; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with 
one pint good cider, strain the oysters and put them in a mortar 
with a tablespoon salt, one drachm cayenne, and two drachms pounded 
mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it to the 
liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it again five minutes, and 
skim well ; rub the whole through a sieve, and when cold, bottle and 
cork closely. The corks should be sealed. 

Pejyper Catswp. — Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three 
quarts vinegar, three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions 
and one clove garlic. Boil until soft, and strain through a sieve. 
Then add two tablespoons each of black pepper, allspice, mace, 
cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes ; then bottle. Some add 
one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar. 

Plum Catsup. — To three pounds fruit take one and three- 
fourths pounds sugar, one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon and 
pepper, and a very little salt ; scald and put plums through the sieve 
then add sugar and spices and boil to right consistency. 

Tomato Catsup. — Half bushel ripe tomatoes, four ounces salt, 
three ounces ground black pepper, one ounce cinnamon, half ounce 
ground cloves, one drachm cayenne pepper, one gallon vinegar ; slice 
the tomatoes and stow in their own liquor until soft, and rul) through 
a sieve fine enough to retain the seeds ; boil the pulp and juice down 
to the consistency of apple-butter (very thick), stirring steadily all 
the time to prevent burning ; then add the vinegar with which a 
small cup sugar and the apices have been mixed, boil up twice, re- 
move from fire, let cool and bottle. Those who like the flavor of 
onions may^dd about half a dozen medium sized ones, peeled and 
sliced, fifteeTi minutes before the vinegar and spices are put in. 

Tomato Catsup. — Take one bushel firm ripe tomatoes, wipe 
them off nicely with a damp cloth, cut out the cores, and put them 
in a porcelain-lined iron kettle or a genuine bell-metal one. Place 
over the fire, and pour over them about three pints water, throw in 
two large handfuls peach leaves, with ten or twelve onions or shal- 
lots cut fine. Boil until the tomatoes are done, which Avill take 
about two hours ; then strain through a coarse-mesh sieve, pour the 
liquid back again into the boiling kettle and add half a gallon good 
strong cider vinegar ; have ready two ounces ground spice, two 
ounces ground black pepper, two ounces mustard (either ground or 
in the seed, as you prefer), one ounce ground cloves, two grated nut- 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 167 



megs, two pounds light brown sugar, and one pint salt ; mix these 
ingredients Avell together before putting in the boiler ; then boil two 
hours, stirring continually to prevent burning. If you like the cat- 
sup ''hot," add cayenne pepper to your taste. When cool, fill bot- 
tles (reeded bottles are the nicest, they can be procured at the house 
furnisher's and a set will last some time ; they look better than ones 
of all sizes and styles). Cork and seal with bottle-wax so as to ex- 
clude the air. Keep in a cool, dry place for future use. This recipe 
IS preferred to all others— it has been used for years. It keeps Avell, 
and has been pronounced by competent judges superior to all 
others. 

Tomato Catsup.—^tew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced 
tomatoes, add two tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper 
and quarter tablespoon cayenne, more or less as liked, cup of brown 
sugar and pint vinegar. Boil to the consistency of cream, Avatching 
carefully to prevent burning, then set on back of stove and add half 
a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a pint of currant jel- 
ly, mixing thoroughly ; can or bottle while hot. Horse-radish bot- 
tles or any small, wide-mouthed bottles are best for this purpose • 
seal with corks and dip in sealing wax. This will keep two years. ' 

Walnut Catsup.— Frocure one hundred walnuts at the time 
when you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them 
into a jar with a handful salt and one quart vinegar ; let them stand 
eight days, stirring every day, then drain the liquor off them, add 
one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and whole black 
peppers, small piece horse-radish, twenty shallots, or onions, and one- 
fourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour. It mav be strained 
or not as preferred, and if required a Httle more vinegar can be 
added according to taste. Bottle and seal. 



Almo7id Sauce. — Blanch and pound sweet almonds and add 
enough white stock to make it of the consistency of thickened 
gravy. Pour over boiled mutton-chops. 

Anchovy Sauce..— hone four anchovies and pound them in a 
mortar to a paste with one ounce butter. Melt a half pint butter and 
when hot stir in the pounded -anchovies and cavenne to taste, sim- 
mer three orfour minutes and if liked add a few drops of lemon 
juice. A quicker and easier way of making this sauce is to stir one 
and one-half tablespoons anchovy essence into one-half pint drawn 
butter, add a little lemon juice and seasoning to taste ; boil one min- 
ute and serve. Less of the essence may be used if thought too 
strong. Serve with baked fish. 

Apple xSaz^ce.— Pare, core and quarter tart apples, throwing into 
cold water until all are pared, to preserve their whiteness ; put them 



168 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



in a saucepan with sufficient water to moisten them and boil till 
soft enough to pulp ; beat them, adding a small piece butter, and 
some like a little sugar and nutmeg. Serve with roast pork, goose, 
or duck. May be colored, if desired, with beet root, cochineal, or a 
little spinach juice. To make Bvoivn Apple Sauce^ cook the apples 
in half pint brown gravy and finish as above, leaving out sugar, and 
seasoning with cayenne instead of nutmeg. 

Aspai'agus Sauce. — Break a bundle of green asparagus in the 
tender part, wash well and put into boiling salt water, to render 
green ; when tender take out, put into cold water and drain on a 
cloth until all moisture is absorbed. Put one tablespoon fresh but- 
ter in a saucepan with a small bunch parsley and three or four green 
onions ; lay in the asparagus and fry the whole over a sharp fire five 
minutes ; add salt, a large lump sugar and four tablespoons white 
stock and simmer another five minutes ; rub all through a sieve and 
if not a good color use a little spinach coloring. This sauce should 
be rather sweet. 

Bread Sauce. — Put giblets of a fowl with the neck and legs in a 
saucepan with one onion, twelve whole peppers, one blade mace, salt 
to taste, and rather more than a pint water ; let simmer one hour, 
strain the liquor over three-fourths pound bread crumbs, cover and 
leave one hour where it will keep warm, then beat up with a fork 
until nice and smooth ; boil three or four minutes, stirring until 
rather thick, add three tablespoons melted butter or cream, and send 
to table hot with roast fowl or game. A nice way of serving is to fry 
coarse crumbs a light broAvn in tablespoon very hot butter, stir over 
hot fire two minutes without burning. Cover the breasts of roasted 
birds with these, and serve the sauce-poured around the birds, or in 
a gravy dish. Add the chopped giblets for Glhlet Sauce. Another 
good bread sauce can be made hy placing a sliced onion and six 
peppercorns in a half pint milk over boiling wateruntil onion is per- 
fectly soft; strain it over a half pint grated bread crumbs Avithout 
crust and leave it covered for an hour ; beat it smooth, add pinch of 
salt and two tablespoons butter rubbed in a little flour ; add enough 
sweet cream or milk to make it the proper consistency and boil a few 
minutes. It must be thin enough to pour. 

Caper Sauce. — To a pint drawn butter sauce add three table- 
spoons capers, either whole or chopped once or twice ; a hard 
boiled egg chopped fine may be added, or just after taking from fire 
stir in yolk of an egg beaten with teaspoon water. If to be served 
with fish flavor with teaspoon each lemon juice and essence of 
anchovy. Or chop tAvo tablespoons capers and add them to a half 
pint draAvn butter, Avith piece of lemon, teas])oon Worcestershire 
sauce and a pinch cayenne ; put on fire and simmer a fcAV minutes ; 
mix a teaspoon flour Avith a very little cold Avater and add to sauce. 
Mutton Caper Sauce is made as foUoAvs : Fifteen minutes before 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 169 

the mutton is done melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir 
into it one tablespoon flour ; when thoroughly mixed add half a pint 
of the liquor in which the mutton is boiling, and half a pint of milk, 
season with pepper and salt, cook a few minutes, and just before 
serving (in order that their color may not be lost by standing) add 
two heaped tablespoons capers. Never let sauce boil after adding 
capers. 

Celery Sauce. — Scrape the outside stalks of celery and cut in 
pieces an inch long, let stand in cold water half an hour, then put 
in boiling salted Avater, enough to cover, and cook until tender ; 
drain offAvater and dress Avith butter, salt, a little mace, and milk or 
cream, thickened Avith a little flour. Or make a dressing by adding 
to half pint milk or cream the AA'ell-beaten yolks of tAVO eggs, a bit of 
butter, a little salt and pepper and grated nutmeg ; bring just to 
boiling point, pour over stcAved celery. Another sauce is made by 
cutting the tender parts of a head of celery very fine. Pour on water 
enough to cover them, cover the saucepan and set where it Avill sim- 
mer one hovir ; mix tAVO tablespoons flour and four of butter ; 
when the celery- has boiled one hour add to it the butter and flour, 
one pint milk or cream, sea'son to taste, boil up once and serve Avith 
roast duck, or roast or boiled foAvl. 

Chestnut Sauce. — Take one-half pound shelled chestnuts, and 
put them into boiling Avater for a fcAV minutes ; throAV into cold 
Avater, take off the thin inside skin and put them into a saucepan 
with a half pint AAdiite stock and tAvo strips lemon peel, or a tea- 
spoon juice, and let them simmer an hour and a half, or until chest- 
nuts are quite tender. Put the Avhole through a hair sieve Avith a 
wooden spoon, add seasoning of cayenne and a gill of cream ; let it 
just simmer, but not boil and keep stirring all the time. Serve A^ery 
hot and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, two teaspoons 
butter and one of flour Avill be required ; melt butter, stir in flour, 
and Avhen smooth add to the mixture. If sauce is not perfectly 
smooth rub again through a sieA^e. To make Broiim Chestnut Sauce 
take same proportions, using any soup stock, or the broth from the 
fowl, if boiled, stirring butter and flour over the fire until broAvned, 
or adding a teasjooon caramel coloring. Serve either of the above 
sauces with roast turkey or other roast or boiled foAAd. 

Chili Sauce. — TavcIvc large ripe tomatoes, three ripe or two 
green peppers, leaving out half the seeds, tAvo onions, two table- 
spoons each salt and sugar, one of cinnamon, three cups vinegar ; 
peel tomatoes and onions, chop separately very 'fine, add the finely 
chopped ]ieppers Avith the other ingredients, and boil one and a half 
hours. Bottle, and it AA'ill keep a long time. Stone jugs are better 
than glass cans. One quart of canned tomatoes may be used instead 
of the ripe ones. This chili sauce is excellent and much better and 
more healthful than catsups. If liked more highly spiced add one- 



170 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



half teaspoon cloves and one-third teaspoon each ginger and nutmeg. 
A half pint of Worcestershire sauce is sometimes added. 

Crah Sauce. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away 
from the shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make a half 
pint drawn butter, put in the fish and season with salt, pounded 
mace and cayenne to taste ; let it gradually warm through and sim- 
mer two minutes. It should not boil. Almost equals lobster sauce 
and served the same. 

Cranherry Sauce. — After removing all soft berries, wash thor- 
oughly, place for about two minutes in scalding water, remove, and 
to every pound fruit add three-quarters of a pound granulated sugar 
and a lialf pint water ; stew together over a moderate but steady 
fire. Be careful to cover and not to stir the fruit, but occasionally 
shake the vessel, or apply a gentler heat if in danger of sticking or 
burning. If attention to these particulars be given, the berries will 
retain their shape to a considerable extent, which adds greatly to their 
appearance on the table. Boil from five to seven minutes, remove 
from fire, turn into a deep dish, and set aside to cool. If to be kept, 
they can be put up at once in air-tight jars. Or, for strained sauce, 
one and a half pounds of fruit should be stewed in one pint water 
for ten or twelve minutes, or until quite soft, then strain through a 
puree or fine wire sieve, and three-quarters pound sugar thoroughly 
stirred into the pulp thus obtained ; after cooling it is readv for use. 
Serve with roast turkey, roast pork or game. When to be kept for a 
long time without sealing more sugar may be added, but its too free 
use impairs the peculiar cranberry flavor. For dinner-sauce half a 
pound is more economical, and really preferable to three-quarters as 
given above. Use a porcelain or granite ironware kettle. Some pre- 
fer not to add the sugar until the fruit is almost done, thinking this 
plan makes it more tender, and preserves the color better. 

C7'eam Sauce. — Heat one tablespoon butter in a skillet, add a 
tablespoon flour and stir until perfectly smooth, then add gradually 
a cup cold milk or cream, let boil up once, season to taste with salt 
and pepper, and a little mace or lemon juice if wished, and serve. 
Butter may be omitted when cream is used if thought too rich. This 
is very nice for vegetables, omelets, croquettes, delicate meats, fish, or 
sweet breads. 

Currant Sauce. — Half an hour before venison is done pick over 
an ounce of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire 
in half pint hot water and boil them fifteen minutes ; then add two 
heaping tablespoons bread crumbs, oneof butter, a palatable season- 
ing of salt and pepper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce 
gently; just before serving it add a tablespoon currant jell}'' beaten 
with a cup water or stock, or gravy from the game. Serve with 
venison or other game. 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 171 



Currant Jelly Sauce. — Three tablespoons butter, one onion, 
one bay leaf, one sprig celery, two tablespoons vinegar, half cup cur- 
rant jelly, one tablespoon flour, one pint stock, seasoning. Brown 
butter and onion, add flour and herbs, then the stock, and simmer 
twenty minutes. Strain, skim off the fat, add the jelly and stir 
over the fire until melted ; serve with game. 

Curry Sauce. — One tablespoon each butter and flour, one tea- 
spoon curry powder, one large slice of onion, one large cup stock, 
salt and pepjier to taste. Cut the onion fine and brown in the but- 
ter, add the flour and curry powder, stir one minute, add the stock 
and season to taste. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve. Good 
with a boil or saute of fish or meat. 

Draivn Butter Sauce. — Rub two tablespoons butter into half a 
tablespoon flour, beating to a cream,adding,if needed,a little salt ; pour 
on it half a pint boiling Avater or milk, stirring it one icaij rapidly, 
and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boiling makes it oily and 
unfit for use. The boiling may be prevented by cooking in the cus- 
tard kettle as heretofore suggested, or placing the saucepan in a 
larger one of boiling water, covering and 
shaking frequently until it reaches the boiling- 
point. Now pass through a sieve and stir in a 
tablespoon butter cut in pieces. If necessary 
to reheat, return to custard kettle. This makes 
one pint sauce. If liked acid, a few drops vin- 
egar or lemon juice may be added just before 
serving. In the thickening of all sauces, let it cu^taro Keaie. 

be remembered that butter and flour should be well cooked together 
before the eauceis added, to prevent the flour from tasting uncooked. 
In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be used to 
cook the flour, adding the remainder cut in pieces after the sauce is 
taken from the fire. This preserves its flavor. An excellent Pickle 
Sauce is made by adding two tablespoons finely chopped pickled 
cucumbers to drawn butter sauce prepared as above. Or, make with 
cream and add boiled cauliflowers cut with vegetable cutter, for 
CauliHower Sauce, excellent with boiled fowl. Another good sauce 
for fowl is the Lemon Sauce, made by adding to the drawn butter 
sauce the chopped inside of a lemon (without the seeds) and the 
liver of the fowl chopped fine. A great variety of sauces which are 
excellent to eat with fish, poultry or boiled meats can be made with 
the drawn butter sauce by adding different herbs, such as parsley, 
mint or sweet majroram. First throw them into boiling water, cut 
fine, and they are ready to be added, when serve immediately with 
two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This makes a nice sauce to serve 
with baked fish. The chopped inside of a lemon without the seeds, 
to which the chicken liver has been added, makes a good sauce for 
boiled chicken. 




172 CATSUPS AND SAUCES, 



Egg Sauce. — Put one cup each -water and milk on fire to scald, 
and when hot stir in tablespoon flour, previously mixed smooth 
with a very little cold water, add three eggs well beaten and strained, 
season with salt and peppei , two tablespoons butter and a little white 
vinegar; do not let boil after eggs are put in ; boil four eggs hard, 
slice and lay over the dish ; a little nutmeg and a few thin slices of 
lemon are sometimes added ; pour over sauce, and serve with boiled 
fish. Or, take yolks of two eggs boiled hard and mash with a table- 
spoon mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoons vinegar 
and three of salad oil. A tablespoon of catsup improves this for 
some. Very nice for boiled fish. Or, to a pint drawn butter sauce, 
without herbs, add four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. 

Gooseberrg Saucs. — Boil one pint green gooseberries in water 
until quite tender ; strain them, and rub them through a sieve. Put 
into a saucepan three tablespoons French White Sauce, or veal 
gravy will do, with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of salt, 
pepper and grated nutmeg to taste ; add the pulp from the goose- 
berries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little 
pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered 
an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme 
acidity of the unripe fruit. Serve with boiled mackerel. 

Ilollandaise /Sauce. — One-half cup broth, milk or water, cup 
butter, yolks of four eggs, juice of one lemon, a dozen pepper-corns, 
nutmeg and salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns, a scrap of 
broken nutmeg and level teaspoon salt, ^yhen flavored strain the 
broth into another saucepan or tin cup. Put in two-thirds of the 
butter and the four yolks and beat it with a fork over the fire until it 
thickens like cream. Then take it off and beat in the rest of the 
butter in little bits, beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the 
lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never 
fairly boil, only just begin to. It should be cooked in cup set in 
boiling water. There is a moment, about a minute after set to cook, 
that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After 
that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, 
but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. Serve Avith fish, cauli- 
flower, asparagus, or any vegetable. It is golden yellow, shining 
and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a 
knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing. 

IIorse-7'adish Sauce. — Grate very fine a root of horse-radish, 
mix two tablespoons of it with a teaspoon salt and four tablespoons 
cream, stir briskly and add by degrees a fourth tablesjioon vinegar. 
Or, take four tal)lespoons horse-radish and mix well with one table- 
spoon each sugar and salt, one-half teaspoon pe])per and two tea- 
spoons made mustard, with sufficient vinegar to give it the consis- 
tency of cream. Especially nice with corned beef, and acceptable 
with almost any meat. It is sometimes prepared by adding to two 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 173 



tablespoons grated horse-radish one dessert-spoon olive-oil (or melted 
butter or cream), and one of made mustard. To prepare Ilorse- 
rculish for Winter^ in the fall mix the quantity wanted in the fol- 
lowing proportions : A cotiee-cup grated horse-radish, two table- 
spoons white sugar, half teaspoon salt, and a pint and a half cold 
vinegar. Bottle and seal. 

Italian Sauce. — One cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy, 
strained and skimmed), one teaspoon minced onion, two each of 
minced mushrooms and parsley, juice of one lemon, cayenne and 
salt to taste. Pour half the juice from the can of mushrooms into 
the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together fif- 
teen ndnutes. Nice with fried trout or other fish. If fresh mush- 
rooms are used they should not stand after chopping or they will 
turn black. 

Indian Chetney Sauce. — Chop eight ounces sharp sour apples, 
pared, cored and cut in small square pieces, and add to them eight 
ounces each tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and stoned raisins, four ounces 
each cayenne and powdered ginger, two ounces each garlic and shal- 
lots, three quarts vinegar, one quart lemon juice; mix the whole 
well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm 
place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid 
after this operation ; strain, but do not squeeze it dry ; store it away 
in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an ex- 
cellent sauce for meat or fish. Some prefer to cook the apples in 
the vinegar before adding other ingredients. 

Leauiington Sauce. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts 
as soon as they appear in the market ; for they are more easily 
bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a 
mortar to a ])ulp, strcAV some salt over them, and let them remain 
thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them 
about. Press out the juice, and to each quart walnut-liquor allow 
three quarts vinegar, one pint soy, one ounce cayenne, tow ounces 
shallots, three-fourth ounce garlic, and half pint cooking wine. 
Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well 
together, and store away for use in small bottles. The corks should 
be well sealed. This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are 
obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. The soy 
spoken of above is a sauce frequently made use of for fish and is 
manufactured by both the Japanese and Chinese, that of the for- 
mer being the best. This article is sometimes adulterated but when 
genuine it is of an agreeable flavor, thick, and of a clear brown 
color. 

Lemon Sauce. — Put three-fourths pint cream into a very clean 
saucepan (a lined one is best), with one lemon-peel, one-half teaspoon 
whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let these infuse 



174 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



for half an hour, when simmer gently' for a few minutes, or until 
there is a nice flavor of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of 
three tablespoons of butter and one of flour; stir this well in, and 
put in juice of one lemon at the moment of serving; mix one cup 
white stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should 
not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may 
be used instead of cream, with another tablespoon flour. An excel- 
lent sauce for fowls, fricassees, etc. The recipe makes enough for two 
fowls. Or, a simple method is to cut three slices lemon into very 
small dice, add to draAvn butter, let boil up once and serve. 

Liver and Lemon Sauce. — AVash the liver of a fowl and let it 
boil a few minutes ; peel one lemon very thin, reserve the white part 
and pips and cut it into very small slices ; mince the liver and a 
small ciuantity of the lemon rind very fine ; add these ingredients to 
a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, season with a little salt, 
put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil 
lest the butter should oil. Serve with j^oultry. 

Liver and Parsley Satice. — Wash and score the liver of a fowl, 
boil it for a few minutes and mince it very fine ; scald a small bunch 
of parsley of Avhich there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a 
tablespoon ; add this with the minced liver to a half pint smoothly 
made drawn butter, let it just boil and serve with fowl. 

Lobster Sauce. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable 
in order to render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the 
meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the 
spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mor- 
tar with half ounce butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it 
through ahair-sieve,and cover uptill wanted. Make three-fourths pint 
of drawn butter, and add one tablespoon anchovy sauce, one-half 
ounce butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace if 
liked, and two or three tablespoons cream. Mix well before the 
lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not 
come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get 
thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the color would im- 
mediately be spoiled ; for it should be remembered that this sauce 
should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be 
served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed 
through a sieve, without butter) should be saved to garnish with ; 
but as the goodness, flavor, and appearance of the sauce so much 
depend on having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for gar- 
nishing the better. This makes sufficient to serve with a small 
turbot, a brill or salmon for six persons. For a very small lobster, 
use only a half pint drawn butter and season as above. The re- 
mains of a cold lobster may with a little care be converted into a 
very good sauce. Or, break the shell of the lobster into small 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



176 



pieces ; pour over them one pint water or veal stock, add a pinch of 
salt and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. _ ISIix 
two ounces butter with an ounce flour, strain the liquid uponit and 
stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens ; do not let it hoil. 
4dd tAvo tablespoons of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, 
and serve. Improved bv a tables]^oon of lobster butter if at hand. 
An economical sauce mav be made by chopping the meat of the 
tail and claws of a good-sized lobster into pieces (not too small). 
Half an hour before dinner, make half a pint of drawn butter, add 
the chopped lobster, a pinch of coral, another of cayenne, and a 
little salt. 

Mayonnaise Sai(,ce.—^\ox\i the yolks of two raw eggs to a 
smooth 'paste and add tAvo salt-spoons salt, half a salt-spopn cay- 
enne, a salt-spoon dry mustard and a teaspoon olive oil ; mix these 
ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon ; 
take the rcmainder^of "half a ])int olive oil and add it gradually, a tea- 
spoon at a time, and every fifth teaspoon add a few drops of lemon 
juice until you have used two lemons and the half pint oil. Or, rub 
the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with the yolk of one raw egg to 
a smooth paste ; add a heaping teaspoon salt, two salt-spoons white 
pepper, and two salt-spoons made mustard ; mix thoroughly and 
work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture alternating with a tea- 
spoon of tarragon vinegar until you have used three tablespoons 
vinegar. Should the sauce appear too thick add a wineglass of 
cream gradually. In mixing the oil and lemon juice or vinegar, 
some put in only a few drops at a time, alternately, to insure against 
curdling. For a Fish Mayonnaise this sauce may be colored with 
lobster-'spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is 
desired, a little parsley juice may be used to add to its appearance. 

Mi7it Sauce.— Ti\ke fresh young mint, strip leaves from stems, 
wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth ; chop very fine, put 
in a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped tablespoons mint add two of 
pounded sugar; let remain a few minutes well mixed together, and 
pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar. If members 
of the familv like the flavor but not the substance of the mint, the 
sauce mav be strained after it has stood for two or three hours, 
pressing it well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make the 
sauce two or three hours before dinner, so that the vinegar may be 
impregnated with the mint. Serve with either boiled or roast lamb. 
The addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor from the 
meat is an improvement. This makes suflicient sauce for a three or 
four-pound joint. AVhen green mint is scarce and not obtainable, 
mint vinegar may be substituted for it and will be found acceptable 
in early spring. 

Olive Sauce. — Two dozen queen olives,_ one pint rich stock, the 
juice of one lemon, two tablespoons salad oil, one of flour, salt, pep- 



176 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



Eer, a small slice of onion. Let the olives stand in hot water half an 
our to extract the salt, then jjlace in cold water five minutes. Put 
onion and oil in stewpan, and as soon as the onion begins "to color 
add Hour. Stir until smooth, and add stock. Set back where it 
Avill simmer. Carefully stone the olives by paring them round in 
ribbons so that they may recover their shape v/hen stoned. Put 
them in the sauce, add seasoning, and simmer twenty minutes. 
Skim carefully and serve. If sauce is liked thin, half the amount 
of flour given can be used. This sauce is for roast duck and game. 

Onion Sauce. — Peel nine large or twelve middling-sized white 
onions, and put them into water to which a little salt has been 
added, to preserve their Avhiteness, and let them remain fifteen min- 
utes. Put in saucepan, cover with water and boil until tender, 
changing the water, if onions are very strong, Avhen they have boiled 
fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly, chop and rub through sieve. 
Make a pint drawn Initter, and when it boils put in the onions, sea- 
son with salt, stir ti^l it simmers and the sauce will l^e ready to serve. 
If directions are carefully followed this White Onion Sauce will be 
delicious. Serve with roast shoulder of mutton or broiled rabbit. 
To make this sauce very mild and delicate use Spanish onions which 
may be obtained from first of September to Christmas. Two or 
three tablespoons cream added just before serving improves it very 
much. A knife and sieve or small wire strainer should be kept ex- 
pressly for preparing onions, that their flavor may not be imparted 
to otlier dishes. To make Broken Onion Sauce slice and fry the 
onions in butter, add half pint any gravy, simmer until tender, skim 
ofl'' all fat, season with pej^per and salt and put through a sieve, re- 
heat and serve. When a high flavoring is liked add one tablespoon 
mushroom catsup. 

Orange Sauce. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut 
into slices, and then in fillets ; ])ut them in a gill of water to boil for 
two minutes ; drain on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in 
the saucepan two spoons of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when 
boiling, add the orange and a little sugar ; simmer ten minutes, 
skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. 
This is served with ducklings and water fowl ; cayenne and mustard 
may be added if liked. 

Oyster Saxice. — Strain the liquor from a half pint oysters and 
add enough milk or water to make one pint ; stir in a half cup but- 
ter beaten to a cream with two tablespoons flour. Let this come to 
a boil, add the oysters and let them boil up once — cooking long 
hardens them. If wanted really nice the oysters should be bearded. 
Or add a few dro])S lemon juice or vinegar, a tablespoon capers, or 
use a seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. The sauce is richer 
if cream instead of water is used in making the drawn butter, but 
in this case do not add the lemon j uice or vinegar. Never allow less 



CATSUPS a:nd sauces. 177 

than six oysters to each person, unless making a large quantity. 
Serve witli fish or boiled poultry. To make Brown Oyster Savee, 
use above ingredients, stirring butter and flour together over the fire 
until a dark brown, and serve with boiled or stewed beefsteak. 

Parsley Sauce. — Boil two tablespoons parsley slowly in 
slightly salted water, drain and cut fine, and add it to one-half pint 
smoothly-made drawn butter, with one-half teaspoon salt and a 
tablespoon vinegar. Boil up and serve. If sauce is wanted to look 
green boil the other ingredients together and pour over the scalded 
and chopped parsley already in the gravy tureen. Stir once or 
twice and serve with calf's head, boiled fowl, etc. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Free a pint of shrimps from bits of sea-grass 
and broken shells, throw them into salted boiling water, and boil 
them fur a few moments, until the sliells turn red, then drain them 
and break off the heads, legs and shells : the available part is the flesh 
of the tails. After the shrimp are prepared, put a tablespoon each 
of butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire and stir them until 
they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint boiling 
water, season the sauce with two saltspoons salt and a libenil dust 
of cayenne, put in tlie shrimp, and serve the sauce with boiled fish. 
Garnish the dish with a few whole shrimps. Another method of 
making this sauce is to add to a pint drawn butter sauce a half can 
shrimps, flavor with two tablespoons essence of anchovies or a tea- 
spoon anchovy paste. At the last moment a few drops lemon juice 
and a little cayenne may be added. 

Tartars Sauce. — Yolks two eggs, gill sahid oil or melted butter, 
salt-spoon salt, half a salt-spoon pepper, a tablespoon good cider 
vinegar, half teaspoon each mustard and sugar, and a tablespoon 
gherkins. Beat together lightly in a small bowl the vinegar and 
yolks, add to these, drop by drop, the salad-oil or melted butter, 
taking care to stir the same way all the time ; when this is done, 
season the mixture with pepper, salt, and mustard ; add also the 
gherkins finely chopped for capers may be substituted), and serve 
in a gravy boat with bciled salmon or cold meats. Or, mince two 
small English pickles, one-fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of 
parsley together. Add them to three tablespoons mayonnaise sauce 
and the juice of half a lemon IMix and serve (see mayonnaise 
sauce). A few t.;nTagon leaves will improve the sauce. This is 
called the perfection of sauces for fried fish. 

Tomato Sauce. — Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves, and pep- 
per and salt, for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced onion and a sprig 
of parsley), strain through a sieve, put on the stove in a saucepan 
in which a lump of butter the size of an egg and level tablespoon 
flour have been well mixed and cooked, stir all until smooth, and if 
wanted to remove seeds put through a sieve, reheat and serve. 



178 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



Canned tomatoes may be used as a substitute. Or stew half a dozen 
tomatoes in a pint stock Avith a slice of ham cut into dice, a bay- 
leaf, a blade of mace, three drops pepper sauce and three small 
pickled onions ; stir the whole over a gentle fire until done, then 
press them through a sieve, add salt, and put the sauce again upon 
the fire till it is ver}' hot. 

French Tomato ^auce.—Q>vX tomatoes into quarters and put 
them in saucepan with salt to taste, a good handful of basil, and 
three or four cloves of garlic ; a little water should be put into the 
saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching. When they are thor- 
oughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve and wait till all the 
water has drained from them. Throw away this water and pass the 
tomatoes through the sieve ; put tlie pulp into a saucepan, boil half 
an hour, and a moderate quantity of black pepper may be added to 
taste. When the sauce is quite cold put it into wide-mouthed bot- 
tles, cork tightly and tie up each cork with string or wire ; dip the 
neck of each bottle into melted resin and they may then be put away 
to be used when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, 
for once opened the sauce will no longer keej^ good. If before put- 
ting on the wire the bottles of sauce are placed upright in a large 
vessel full of cold Avater and this is put on the fire until the water 
boils, the preservation will be more certain still, and the sauce will 
keep good for any length of time. Care must be taken, however, 
not to remove the bottles from the vessel until the water has become 
perfectly cold. 

'White Sauce. — Stir one tablespoon each butter and flour 
together over the fire until smooth, add one pint milk, season with 
salt and white pepper, and let boil up once. Strain if not perfectly 
smooth. This is the plain white sauce, so nice served with vegeta- 
bles, and which is also used by many as the foundation for other 
sauces instead of the rich drawn butter. Brown Sauce is made 
same way, stirring the butter and flour over the fire until a dark 
brown color, and when it is at hand using a pint froth from boiling 
meat instead of the milk. 

French White Sauce. — As white stock is the foundation of this 
sauce, it must be prepared first as follows : Cut up four pounds 
knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham, 
put it into a saucepan which has been rubbed with butter, moisten 
with half pint water and simmer till gravy begins to flow ; then add 
four quarts water, three carrots, two onions, one head celery, twelve 
white pepper-corns, a blade of mace, bunch of herbs, tablespoon 
each butter and salt. Simmer five hours, skim, strain carefully, and 
the Whife Stock is ready for use. Co7isomme is made exactly the 
same with double the quantity of meat or half the water. For the 
sauce put one pint stock in the saucepan with a small bunch pars- 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 179 



ley, two cloves, half bay-leaf, small bunch savory herbs, three or 
four mushrooms when obtainable, and salt to taste. When it has 
boiled enough to extract the flavor from the herbs, etc., strain and 
boil up quickly again until it is nearly half reduced. Mix one table- 
spoon arrowroot smoothly with a pint cream and simmer gently five 
minutes over slow fire ; add to it the reduced stock, and if stock is 
thick continue to simmer slowly for ten minutes, but if thin, stir 
over brisk fire till it thickens. This is the well known Bechamel 
Sauce, and is the foundation of many others, especially white 
sauces. Many make it thick, as it is easily thinned with cream or 
white stock. To make Brown Stock or Sauce stir three-fourths 
tablespoon flour with a tablespoon butter over the fire until a dark 
brown color and add to white stock. 



Caper Butter . — Chop one tablespoon capers very fine, rub 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix with a salt-spoon 
salt, quarter of a spoon pepper, and one ounce cold butter. Put a 
layer of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it. 

Drawn Butter. — Cut one-fourth pound (or four well-rounded 
tablespoons) butter up into small pieces, put in saucepan, dredge 
over a dessert-spoon flour, and add four tablespoons water and a 
seasoning of salt ; stir it one way constantly till the whole of the 
ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, 
when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, 
use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour ; keep stirring, 
but do not allow it to boil. Another way of making, Avhich is also 
used as a sauce, is to mix the flour and Avater, rubl)ing down all 
lumps with a spoon, and put in a saucepan with the water and salt, 
adding one-half spoon white vinegar and a very little grated nut- 
meg. Simmer, not boil, until it thickens. 

Lobster Butter. — INIix the spawn and coral of a lobster Avith 
double the quantity of butter, a little cayenne, and pound in a mor- 
tar to a paste. May be used in flavoring lobster sauce and garnish- 
ing or decorating cold salmon, etc. 

Parsley Butter. — One-fourth pound butter, two dessert-spoons 
minced parsley, the juice of one large lemon and salt and pepper to 
taste, well worked together. Serve over or around either meat or 
fish. 

Caramel Coloring. — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water 
in a saucepan over the fire, stir constantly till it is a dark color, then 
add a half teacup Avater and a pinch of salt, let boil for a few mo- 
ments, take ofi". and when cold, bottle. 



180 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



Parsley Coloring. — Procure nice young parsley, and wash and 
dry thoroughly in a cloth ; pound the loaves in a mortar until all 
the juice is extracted, and put juice in teacup or small jar, set in a 
saucepan of boiling water and warm it just enough to take off its 
rawness. Let it drain and it will be ready for coloring. 

Sphiach Coloring. — Wash a peck of spinach, pour on it two 
quarts boiling water and let it stand one minute. Pour off the 
water, and pound the spinach to a soft pulp. Put this in a coarse 
towel and squeeze all the juice into a small frying pan. (Two people, 
by using the towel at the same time, will extract the juice more 
thoroughly than one can). Put the pan on the fire, and stir until 
the juice is in the form of curd and whey. Watch closely and do 
not boil. Turn on a sieve, and when all the liquor has been drained 
off, scrape the dry material from the sieve and put away for use. 
Another mode is to put with the juice in the frying-pan three table- 
spoons sugar, and cook five minutes ; then bottle for use. This is 
really the more convenient way. Spinach green is used for coloring 
soups, sauces and creams. 

French Mustard. — Slice an onion in a bowl and cover it with 
good vinegar ; after two days pour off the vinegar, add to it a tea- 
spoon each cayenne pepper and salt, a tablespoon sugar, and mus- 
tard enough to thicken ; set on the stove until it boils ; Avhen cold 
it is fit for use. 

Indian Muslard. — Put one-fourth pound each mustard and 
flour and a half tablespoon salt into a basin, and make them into a 
stiff ])aste with boiling water. Boil four shallots with four table- 
spoons each vinegar and catsup, and one-fourth bottle anchovy 
sauce, for ten minutes, and pour the whole, boiling., over the mixture 
in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness ; put it 
into a bottle, with a bruised shallot at the bottom, and store away 
for use. If properly prepared will keej) for years. An excellent 
relish for bread and butter and very nice with meats. 

Prepared Mustard. — Three teaspoons ground mustard, one of 
flour (two if the mustard seems very strong), half teaspoon sugar; 
pour boiled water cooled to lukewarm on these and mix into a 
smooth, thick paste ; when cold add vinegar enough to make ready 
for use, and serve with salt. This resembles the French mustard. 
Another mode of preparing is to make a dressing of one cup vin- 
egar, two eggs, one tablespoon each pepper, sugar and salt, butter 
size of a walnut ; beat well and simmer over the fire to cook the 
eggs ; then add a tablespoon mustard wet in lukewarm water. INIus- 
tard may be flavored in various ways, with tarragon, shallot, celery, 
and many other viiiegars, herbs, spices, etc. 

Tartar Mustard. — Mix a half cup mustard and a slight season- 
ing of cayenne with sufficient horse-radish vinegar to render it per- 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 181 



fectly smooth, rubbing lumps down with back of spoon, adding the 
vinegar a little at a time, and not making it too thin. 

Curry Powder. — An ounce each ginger, mustard, and pepper, 
three each of coriander seed and turmeric, one-half ounce carda- 
mon, quarter ounce each cayenne pepper and cumin seed ; pound 
all fine, sift and cork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient 
to season any thing. This is nice for sauces, boiled meats and stews. 

Dried Celery and Parsley. — Wash the leaves, stalks, roots 
and trimmings of celery and put them in a cool oven to dry thor- 
oughly ; then grate the root, rub leaves and stalks through a sieve 
and put all in tightly corked bottle. Delicious seasoning for sauces, 
soups, stews and dressing. Save all bits of parsley and preserve for 
future use in same manner, not using the roots ; or, take freshl)'" 
gathered parsley and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt ; put 
into boiling Avat'er which has been slightly salted andAvell skimmed, 
and then let it boil for two or three minutes ; take out, let drain, and 
place on a sieve in front of the fire, when it should be dried as ex- 
peditiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bot- 
tles, and when wanted for use pour over it a little warm water, and 
let stand for about five minutes. This may be done any time be- 
tween June and October. Celery salt is made by mixing the root 
dried and ground as above with one-fourth its quantity of salt. A 
very nice seasoning, and will keep a long time. 

Fried Parsley. — Gather some young parsley ; wash, pick, and 
dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; put it into the wire egg basket and hold 
it in boiling lard or drippings for a minute or two. Directly it is 
done, lift out basket, and let stand before the fire that the parsley 
may become thoroughly crisp, and the quicker it is fried the better. 
Should the kitchen not be furnished Avith the above article, throw 
the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out, dry before 
the fire, and when thoroughly crisp it will l)e ready for use. This is 
used for garnishing. 

Spiced Salt. — Dry, powder, and mix by repeated siftings the 
following : One-fourth ounce each powdered thyme, bay-leaf and 

Eepper, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and cayenne pepper, one- 
alf ounce each powdered clove and nutmeg, and to every four 
ounces of this powder add one ounce salt. Keep in an air-tight 
vessel. Nice for spicing sauces, and one ounce of it added to three 
pounds stuffing, or force meat of any kind makes a delicious sea- 
soning. 



182 CHEESE. 



CHEESE. 



The many appetizing, varied and really elegant dishes con- 
cocted with the aid of cheese by modern cooks, render this prod- 
uct of the dairy indispensable to every well appointed table. And 
while the opinion prevails to some extent in this country that 
imported cheese is superior to that of home manufacture, this is not 
by any means true, as is proven by the fact that immense quantities 
of American cheese are annually exported, most of which is mar- 
keted in England, where it is eagerly sought for. The English, how- 
ever, and other foreign manufacturers, brand their cheese with the 
name of the locality in which it is made, and hence several fine 
varieties, as the Stilton, the Cheshire, Gruyere, Parmesan and others 
have very justly become celebrated. While equally as good cheese 
is manufactured in America, notably in New York and Northern 
Ohio, and nearly every state has factories turning out excellent prod- 
ucts, it goes abroad witli no distinctive brand, and is sold along 
with other cheese, good, bad and indifferent, simply under the name 
of American cheese ; and as a buyer who may have once been fortu- 
nate enough to secure a good American article has no means of 
knowing that his next purchase will be of the same manufacture, 
because of the American want of foresight in neglecting to properly 
brand cheese, and often gets poor stuff under the same general name, 
we are placed at a great disadvantage in competing with foreign 
manufacturers. Instead of aiming to make home cheese famous, 
American manufacturers have taken to catering to the popular pre- 



CHEESE. 183 

judice in favor of tlie imported article, and much of what is sold here 
as English, Swiss and Italian cheese, is made upon our own shores, 
and is of such excellent quality that the most prejudiced cannot dis- 
tinguish between it and tlie real imported brand. 

Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality 
of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the "entire" 
milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and 
cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening 
before; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed 
milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- 
sarily sharp, ^lost new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop 
their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans 
smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated 
varieties of tlio foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan, a 
hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma 
and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich 
herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed 
milk, and the best is that which has been kept three or four years, 
none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- 
ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- 
hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from 
cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Che*shire is 
made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of 
skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the 
Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a 
peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruyere is the best of the Swiss 
cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in 
little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best 
known in America and is cheajo and delicious ; care must be taken 
when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, 
a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption 
until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are gen- 
erally for winter consumption, and come to us only from October to 
May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which 
comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the 
Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same 
shape and size ; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, 
prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The 
American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of 



184 CHEESE. 

ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and 
California cheese, which is only about half the weight and thickness 
of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like 
the Eastern, is handled loose or naked in the wholesale market. 
None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. 
They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally 
as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, 
while excellent, if not the best, American factory cheese is obtainable 
everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage 
leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked 
by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, 
but is simply cream dried sufficienth' to be cut with a knife. Cheese 
from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. 
Cheese may be had in small, round shapes, brickbats, the thin Cali- 
fornia cheeses, etc., as well as shaped in the ordinary large round 
hoop, or by the pound therefrom. All cheese, except the foreign 
skim-milk makes, contains more or less coloring matter, principally 
annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are 
adulterated. 

In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in 
large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the 
larger quantity spread with a thickly buttered sheet of white paper, 
and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheese moist a damp 
cloth should be wrapped round it (wet with white wine or alcohol is 
better), and the cheese put into a pan or crock kept covered in a 
cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them for- 
ward, put them into a damp cellar, and to check the production of 
mites spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese 
which are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be 
made into Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with maca- 
roni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by 
covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water, or 
by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses se- 
lected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind. The usual 
mode of serving cheese is to cut a small quantit}'' ^ wi ■ m^ 
of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a ^ ^^^^S/ 
glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. ^^^^^^^^^ 
Should the cheese crumble much, of course this m^h of cheese. 
method is rather wasteful and it may then be put on the table in the 



CHEESE. 



185 



piece, and the host may cut from it. When served thus, the cheese 
must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white doyley or 
napkin, neatly folded. Cream-cheese is often served in a cheese 
course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan ; the latter should he put 
into a colored glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, and salad, or 
water-cress, should always form part of a cheese course, which is 
served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucum- 
bers with it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the 
oven just a moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be 
served with cheese ; butter also for spreading the crackers, this being 
the only time that it is usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with 
cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese omelets, or little cheese cakes, are 
good substitutes for a cheese-course. In serving a Stilton cheese, 
the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece 
of white paper with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the 
cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. Those made in 
May or June are usually served at Christmas ; or, to bo in prime 
order, should be kept from ten to twelve months, or even longer. 
An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by 
inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the 
top. From three weeks to a month is sufficient 
time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavor 
may also be obtained by scooping out a piece 
from the toi), and pouring therein port, sherry, 
^Maderia, or old ale, and letting the cheese ab- 

^ _ _ .sorb these for two or three Aveeks. But that 

stutou Cheese. checse Is thc finest which is ripened without any 

artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. 
A dry cheese is best for grating, and the Parmesan, Edam and Ched- 
dar are largely used for this purpose, but any diy 
cheese or bits left over may be utilized. If the kind 
called for in any of the following recipes is not at 
hand, use the ordinary cheese. Serve as hot and as 
quickly as possible, for if allowed to cool the flavor 
and quality of the melted or cooked cheese is 
spoiled. In buying cheese, that which feels soft cheese Bucket, 
between the fingers is richest and best. When mites have taken pos- 
ession of a cheese, and one wishes to use it, the following recipe 
will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese ; 





186 CHEESE. 

Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton has been cooked, 
whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few seconds, take 
out cheese, wipe immediately, dry and then put it away in a dry 
place until required for use. The cheese bucket illustrated will 
be found the most convenient receptacle for cheese, the close-fitting 
cover excluding air and insects, and is much more easily moved 
about than a crock. 



Cheese Cakes. — Take twelve ounces curd made as in recipe for 
cream cheese, (product of four quarts milk), half cup each sugar, 
and butter, four yolks of eggs and a pinch of salt, flavoring with 
grated lemon rind, or extract and nutmeg. Rub the curd, as taken 
from the draining cloth, through a puree sieve, add the other in- 
gredients and mix well together. Line patty-pans with paste, near- 
ly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. The curd 
mixture, though seemingly too firm at first, melts and puff's up in 
the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when done. These 
are very delicious. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is as sweet 
as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard 
that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by 
scalding and draining in the same way, but will not be quite so 
good. 

Cheese Crusts. — Cut stale bread in slices about two inches and 
a half thick ; trim off" crust, place on a baking-pan and on each slice 
of bread put a heaping tablespoon of any mild cheese grated, or a 
very thin layer of strong, rich cheese ; on the top of the cheese put 
very little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter, and set the pan in a 
hot oven just long enough to slightly brown the crusts ; Avatch them, 
because they should only be bro\vned a little ; let them cool on the 
baking-pan, and then transfer them, Avithout breaking them or dis- 
turbing the cheese, to the dish on which they are to be served. 
Cheese crusts may be used at family dinners as a sort of dessert, or 
served at dinner or luncheon Avith any green salad or celery. 

Cheese Diablotins. — Put a gill milk in a stewpan, with two 
tablespoons butter; when boiling, stir in two tablespoons flour, keep 
^^^^^ stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stew- 
^^■^'"^ pan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, and a 
pound grated cheese ; mix well, season with pep- 
per, salt, and cayenne, rather highly, mold the 
paste into balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan 
containing it, drop them into hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, 
and serve very hot ; a quarter of this quantity may of course be 
made. An excellent dish. 



CHEESE. 187 

Cheese Fingers. — Roll pie paste out thin and cut into strips 
about four inches long and one and one-half wide ; strew each 
thickly with grated cheese, season with pepper and salt, double the 
paste lengthwise, enclosing the cheese, pinch the edges and bake in 
quick oven. Wash over with beaten egg just before taking out and 
sift a little powdered cheese on top. Shut oven door a moment to 
glaze them well ; pile log-cabin fashion on a napkin in a warm dish 
and serve hot. 

Cheese Fondu. — There are many ways of preparing this dish, of 
which the following are considered the best : Four eggs, the weight 
of two in cheese, Parmesan or Cheshire if obtainable, the weight of 
two in butter; pepper and salt to taste. Separate the yolks from 
the whites of the eggs ; beat the former in a basin and grate the 
cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes. Break the butter into small 
pieces, add it to the other ingredients with sufficient pepper and salt 
to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk the 
whites of eggs, stir them lightly in last, and put into oven as quickly 
as possible. Bake in a souffle dish or small round cake tin. Fill 
only half full, as it should rise very much. Pin napkin round the 
dish if there is no ornamental receptacle, and serve very hot and 
quickly. If allowed to stand after taken from the oven, the beauty 
and lightness of the fondu will be completely spoiled. If one has 
not an ornamental receptacle, a pretty way of serving is to line the 
baking pan with paper cut in a fringe at the top. Or bake in indi- 
vidual molds or tins of small size lined thus with paper, or in thick 
paper molds of any fancied form, remembering that they must be 
only half filled when put in oven. Another excellent recipe is to 
take as many eggs as there are to be persons at table, weigh them in 
the shell, and take one-third their weight in the best cheese to be 
had, and one-sixth as much butter as cheese. To the well-beaten 
eggs add the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces, 
and stir together with a wooden spoon ; put over the fire and stir 
until thick and soft ; add salt and pepper to taste and serve on very 
hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondu to remain on the 
fire after the mixture is set, for if it boils it will be entirely spoiled. 
Or, take one cup bread-crumbs, very dry and fine, two scant cups of 
milk, rich and fresh or it will curdle, one-half pound dry old cheese, 
grated, three eggs whipped very light, one small tablespoon melted 
butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a pinch of soda dissolved in hot 
water and stirred into the milk ; soak the crumbs in the milk, beat 
into these the eggs, butter and seasoning, and lastly the cheese. But- 
ter a neat baking dish, pour the fondu into it, streAV dry bread- 
crumbs on the top and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately 
browned. Serve immediately in the baking dish, as it soon falls. 
Economical and delicious. 

Cheese Fritters. — Put six tablespoons flour in a bowl and pour 
a half tablespoon melted butter into the center ; add to this, by 



188 CHEESE. 

degrees, eight tablespoons tepid water, beating all the time, yolk of 
one egg, half teaspoon each pepper and dry mustard, and three 
heaping tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, and last the well- 
beaten white. Drop a tablespoon at a time into hot clarified fat or 
lard. As the fritters T)rown and rise to top, turn and brown the 
other side; place piece of kitchen paper (any clean, coarse brown 
paper) in a baking pan in open oven and put the broAvned fritters 
upon it for a moment that the paper may absorb the fat, then serve 
upon a hot plate covered with a hot napkin and garnished with 
sprigs of parsley. 

Cheese Omelet. — Beat up eggs as for ordinary omelet (see Eggs) 
and add to them the cheese cut in small pieces, a tablespoon to 
three eggs. The cheese may be stirred in quickly just before fry- 
ing, or strewn over the omelet in the pan. A seasoning of salt and 
pepper should be added after putting in pan. Parmesan cheese 
should be grated and beaten in with the eggs, adding a little more 
just before folding the omelet, and serving with the grated cheese 
sprinkled on top. Serve as hot as possible and it will be delicious. 

Cheese Pudding. — One-half pound dry cheese, grated fine, one 
cup dry bread-crumbs, four well-beaten eggs, one cup minced meat — 
one-third ham, two-thirds fowl — one cup milk and one of good 
gravy — veal or fowl — one teaspoon butter, and a pinch of soda in 
the milk ; season with pepper and a very little salt. Stir the milk 
into the beaten eggs, then the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and meat; 
lastly the cheese. Beat up well, but not too long, else the milk may 
curdle in spite of the soda. Butter a mold, pour in the pudding, 
cover, and boil three-quarters of an hour steadily. Turn out upon 
a hot dish and pour the gravy over it. Or, grate three ounces cheese 
and five of bread ; and having warmed one ounce butter in a quar- 
ter pint new milk, mix it with the above, add two well-beaten eggs 
and a little salt. Bake half an hour. 

Cheese PuiFs. — Three ounces cream curd, one quart rich milk 
curdled with rennet, one gill milk, one tablespoon butter, one cup 
flour, two ounces grated cheese, three eggs. Have the curd scalded 
and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk 
with the butter in it, drop in the flour all at once and stir the paste 
over the fire a few minutes ; take off fire and put in the cm-d and the 
grated cheese, and pound the mixture smooth ; then add the eggs 
one at a time and beat them in. Drop spoonfuls of this mixture 
into patty-pans, lined thinly with pie paste, and bake in a slack 
oven ; or else roll mixture very thin, cut in triangular shapes, put a 
spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the sides like a 
three-cornered hat, and bake on a biscuit pan. They will open out 
in baking. Good to eat with apple-sauce. 

Cheese Bellsh. — Place small piece butter in frying-pan with 
one-fourth pound thinly sliced fresh cheese and pour over it a cup 



CHEESE, 



189 



fweet milk, quarter teaspoon dry mustard, pinch salt and pepper, 
stirring all the time, then add gradually three finely rolled crackers 
and sei-ve at once in a Avarni dish. 

Cheese Sa7idwiches.—Vv\\h volks of three hard boiled eggs to a 
smooth paste with one tablespoon melted butter, season with pepper 
and salt, and work in one-fourth pound good English cheese, grated, 
or any cheese may be used. Spread the mixture on very thin slices 
of bread, and fold. Or place slices of good rich cheese half an inch 
thick between slices of brown-bread and butter, set them on a plate 
in oven until well toasted and serve on napkin quickly while very 
hot. 

Cheese SonMe.— 1:^x0 tablespoons butter, one heaping table- 
spoon flour, half cup milk, cup grated cheese, three eggs, half tea- 
spoon salt, speck of cavenne. Put the butter m the saucepan and 
when hot add the flour and stir until smooth but not browned, add 
the milk and seasoning and cook two minutes, then add tlie weii 
beaten yolks of eggs and the cheese ; set away to cool ; when cold 
add the stiffly frothed whites, turn into a buttered souffle pan or 
bakincT dish and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes.^ feerye the 
moment it comes from the oven. The dish m which this is baked 
should hold a quart. 

Cheese Soup.—^^'^^ one and a half cups flour with one pint rich 
cream, four tablespoons each butter and grated Parmesan cheese 
with a speck of cayenne; place the basin in another of hot water 
and stir until the mixture becomes a smooth, firm paste ; break into 
it two eggs and mix quickly and thoroughly, cook two minutes 
lonc^er amf set awav to cool ; when cold roll into little balls size of 
American walnut. ^ ^Vhen the balls are all formed drop them into 
boihng water and cook gentlv five minutes; put them m a soup- 
tureen and pour three quarts of clear boiling soup-stock over them. 
Pass a plate of finely grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. 

Cheese Vol au Tents.— Qwi rounds of bread from slices an inch 
thick, cut out an inner round, leaving a shallow 
cavitv. Dip in beaten egg and fry a light brown. , 

Then fill the cavities with a mixture made by stir- -, ,,,^3^. 

rin<^ into a half cup of boiling water one table- rhco^e voi au vem. _ 
spoon butter and five tablespoons grated cheese, and when this is 
melted the well-beaten volks of two eggs. Season with pepper and 
salt beat together one 'minute and put in a handful bread-crumbs 
After filling the rounds of fried bread brown very quickly in oven and 
serve on folded napkin. 

Cheese Straws.— ^iii six ounces flour on the pastry-board, make 
a hole or well in the center ; into this well put two tablespoons 
cream, three ounces grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, lour 
ounces butter, half a level teaspoon salt, quarter salt-spoon euch 




190 CHEESE. 

pepper and grated nutmeg, together with as much cayenne as can 
be taken up on the point of a very small penknife blade ; mix all 
these ingredients with the tips of the fingers to a firm paste, knead 
it well, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick, and with a sharp knife 
or pastry jagger cut it in straws about eight inches long and quar- 
ter of an inch wide ; lay the strips carefully on a buttered tin, and 
bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese 
straws make a delicious accompaniment to salad, and may be served 
as a course at dinner, either with or without crackers, but always 
with a dressed green salad, or with plain celery. Another mode of 
making is to rub four tablespoons sifted flour with two of butter, 
and four of grated cheese, add one egg and season with talt and 
cayenne pepper, roll very thin, cut in narrow strips three inches in 
length, and mold either into straws or tie in true lover's knots, bake 
a pale brown in a hot oven and serve hot on napkin, with salads. 
Four tablespoons bread-crunibs may be used instead of the egg, and 
the straws made thus are often served cold for luncheon or tea. 
Still another excellent recipe is two cups grated cheese, one-third 
cup butter, cayenne to taste, three-fourths cup flour, or enough to 
roll as pie-crust, one-half cup warm water; beat all to- 
gether, roll out and cut in narrow strips four inches long, 
and bake on writing paper in a hot oven, to a liglitbrown. 
Or, take half pint grated cheese and pint flour, and mix 
with lard as pie crust, roll and finish as above. Serve with ciTesesirrirs. 
salad, piled on plate, crossing them in pairs and tying with ribbon 
of different colors ; or. bake in eight-inch lengths and serve in 
log-cabin style. 

Cheese ivith Celery. — One-half cup each grated cheese, gravy 
and l)utter, or poultry fat, two cups celery cut small, and a little 
pepper and salt. The celery should be in pieces about an inch long 
split to look like macaroni ; boil ten minutes in water, drain, mix in 
the cheese, butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a pan, basting the 
top M'ith spoonfuls of the meat gravy. Serve like a vegetable in 
tureen or individual dishes. 

Cheese loWi Crackers. — Soak in boiling Avater round milk 
crackers split in two, take them out carefully so as not to break 
them ; make layers of these slices in a little gratin dish or a deep 
baking-dish, each slice buttered, spread with a little made mustard, 
and sprinkled with pepper, salt, and plenty of grated cheese. When 
all is prepared, bake them in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

Cheese vntli Eggs. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices and lay in 
a well-buttered dish that has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and 
place on each slic« of egg a slice of Gruyere cheese of same shape 
and size ; place a bit of butter on each, pepper well, sift a few bread- 
crumbs over and put into good oven for about five minutes. Serve 
as hot as possible. 




CHEESE. 



191 




Cheese nnih Jfc/caroni.—Vnt a pint milk and two pints water 
into a Siinccpan with sufficient salt to flavor it ; place it on the fire 
and when it boils quicldy drop in a half pound pipe macaroni. 
Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender (an hour or more), 
drain the macaroni and put it into a deep dish. Have ready six 
ounces grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire, sprinkle it 
amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, 
reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little 
pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread- 
crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remanider of one-fourth pound 
butter, and pour it gently over the 
bread-crumbs. Place the dish before a 
bright fire to brown the crumbs ; turn 
it once or twice that it may be equally 
colored, and serve very "hot. The top of the macaroni_ may be 
browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it be- 
fore the fire, as the process is more expeditious ; but it should never 
be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil and so impart a 
very disagreeable flavor to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it 
be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form 
entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little 
salt, instead of using milk^ but should then have a small piece of 
butter mixed with it. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 

Cottage Cheese. — Set a gallon or more of clabbered milk on the 
stove hearth, or back of stove, or in the oven after cooking a meal, 
leaving the door open ; turn it around freciuentiy, and cut the curd 
into squares with a knife, stirring gentl}' now and then till about as 
warm as the finger will bear, and the whey shows all around the 
curd ; pour all into a coarse bag and hang to drain in a cool place 
for three or four hours, or overnight if m;ide in the evening. When 
wanted, turn from the bag, chop rather coarse with a knife and dress 
with salt, pepper and sweet cream. Some mash and rub thoroughly 
with the cream ; others dress with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg, 
omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine, add salt 
to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and mold into round 
balls. If wanted to serve immediately, drain the curd through a col- 
ander, pressing out all the whey possible with the back of a spoon, 
dress as above as soon as cold and send to table, cutting the top of 
cheese in little squares. 

Cream, Cheese. — Take three pints thick cream and put it into a 
clean wet cloth, adding a teaspoon salt after the cream is sour ; tie 
it up and hang it in a cool place for seven or eight days ; take it 
from the cloth and put it in another and then into a molcl Avith a 
"weight upon it for two or three days longer. Turn it twice a clay, 
Avhen it will be fit to use Sour cream may be made into 
cheese same way. If wanted to ripen quicklj-, cover with 



192 CHEESE. 

mint or nettle leaves. Or take a small pan of fresh morning's milk, 
warm from the cow is best, and mix with the cream skimmed from 
an equal quantity of the last night's milk. Warm it to blood heat, 
pour into it a cup of water in which a piece of rennet the size of two 
fingers has soaked all night, and put it in a Avarm place till the curd 
has formed. Cut the curd into squares, put it in a thin straining 
cloth, squeeze it dryjthen crumble and salt it to taste. Wash the 
straining cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bottomless vessel the 
size of a dinner plate perforated with small holes), put the crumbled 
curd into the cloth and fold the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the 
cover and set a weight on it. In six hours turn the cheese, and let 
stand six hours longer. Then take it out, rub it with fresh butter, 
and set it in a dai-k, dry place. Turn it every day for four or five 
days, when it is fit for use, and it must be eaten immediately when 
cut. It will keep but a few days, even in 3old weather. To make a 
plain family cream cheese, take three half pints milk to one-half 
pint cream, Avarm it and put in a little rennet ; keep it covered in a 
warm place till it is curdled ; put the curds into the colander on a 
cloth to drain about an hour, serve with good plain cream and 
pounded sugar over it. To color, pound fresh sage leaves in a mor- 
tar to obtain the juice, and mix it with the milk while warm after 
the rennet is put in. Spinach juice is an improvement. 

Potato Cheese. — Boil good- white potatoes, and vrhen cool, peel 
them and grate or mash them to alight pulp ; to five pounds of this, 
which must be free from lumps, add a pint of sour milk and salt to 
taste ; knead the whole well, cover it, and leave it for three or four 
days, according to the season ; then knead it afresh, and put the 
checpos into small baskets, when they will part Avith their superflu- 
ous moisture ; dry them in the shade, and i:)lace them in layers in 
large pots or kegs, where they may remain a fortnight. The older 
they are the finer they become. This cheese, it is said, never engen- 
ders worms, and in well closed vessels, in a dry place, will keep for 
years. This is celebrated in various parts of Europe. 

Pounded Cheese. — To every pound cheese allow three table- 
spoons butter. Cut cheese into small pieces and j^ound smoothly 
in mortar (or use a bowl and potato masher), then thoroughly mix 
the Initter Avith it; press into a jar, coA^er Avith clarified butter audit 
will Iceep seA^eral days. A good Avay to dispose of dry cheese ; A'ery 
nice for sandAA'iches, and the best mode of preparing for those AAdiose 
digestion is Aveak. May be flavored by adding a teaspoon mixed 
mustard, cayenne or poAvdered mace, to each pound cheese, and 
curry poAvder is often used. 

' Toasted Cheese. — Rub the bottom of a heated frying-pan Avith a 
cut onion, then AAdth butter. Put a half pound dry grated cheese 
into it, stirring fast to prevent burning. When it is melted put in a 
tablespoon each melted butter and made mustard, and a pinch cay- 



CHEESE. 193 

enne pepper, and lastly a tablespoon bread-crumbs, which have 
been previously soaked in cream, then pressed almost dry. Spread 
smoking hot on rounds or slices of thin toast from which the crust 
has been pared, and serve at once. For Toasted Cheese loith Eggs 
take one-half pound good English cheese, three eggs beaten light, 
three tablespoons bread-crumljs soaked in cream, tablespoon mustard, 
a little minced parsley, three table- 
spoons butter, melted, but not hot. 

Beat the soaked crumbs into the KUchen cheese Knire. 

eggs, then tlie butter and seasoning, lastly the cheese. Beat very 
light, spread smoothly on slices of delicate toast and brown quickly 
upon the upper grating of the oven. The cheese knife will be found 
useful in preparing cheese for toasting, scooping out the inside of a 
dry cheese, etc. 

Ramakin^. — Four ounces grated, high-flavored cheese, half 
Cheshire and half Parmesan if obtainable, or all of one kind, two 
ounces each butter and bread (without crust), a scant gill milk, one- 
third teaspoon each mustard and salt, small pinch cayenne pepper, 
^^^^^ two or three eggs. Crumb the broad and boil it soft in the 
^fflSr milk ; add the butter, mustard, salt, pepper, cheese, and the 
yolks of the eggs ; beat thoroughly, then stir in the whites of the 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour this into patty pans or saucers, 
which ought not to be more than half filled ; bake the paste from 
five to ten minutes, when- it should be puffed high alcove the edge of 
the pans. Serve immediately, or they will fall. A good cheese course 
for dinner and nice for lunch or supper. This batter is equally nice 
for macaroni. Another excellent recipe for ramakins is to boil half 
pint milk and half the quantity of cream ; melt one ounce butter 
and a little salt ; mix in a spoonful flour, and stir it over the fire 
five minutes ; pour in milk and cream by degrees and work smooth, 
taking care that it is thoroughly cooked, then take off and add half 
a pound grated cheese, some coarse ground pepper and an atom of 
nutmeg, with a ver}^ little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight eggs 
and wdiites of two, well beaten ; when perfectly mixed, add the well- 
frothed whites of six eggs ; the batter should be as thick as cream. 
Make little paper trays, fill them half full, and bake in a very slow 
oven eighteen minutes. Or, bake in patty pans or small cups. 
Serve hot. 

Pastry Ramakins. — The remains or odd pieces of paste left 
from large tarts, etc., answer for making these little dishes. Gather 
up the pieces of paste, roll out evenly, and ^^i^_ 
sprinkle with grated cheese of a nice iflavor. ||,^^ ^^ ^ T;a i j j,j fes,^_ 
Fold the paste in three, roll it out again and '"'''''' '"'^■■'""'"iH^ 
sprinkle more cheese over ; fold the paste. Paste jaggar. 

roll it out, and with a paste jaggar shape it in any way that may be 
desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ten to fifteen min- 
utes ; just before taking from the oven brush with beaten egg and 



194 CHEESE. 

sift over with powdered sugar, let brown a moment, dish them on a 
hot napkin and serve quickly. Where expense is not objected to, Par- 
mesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish. The 
recipe makes a quantity sufficient for six or seven persons. 

Toast Ramaldns. — Three tablespoons grated cheese, two eggs 
beaten light, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon anchovy 
sauce, one teaspoon Hour wet with cream, a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
Beat the butter and seasoning in Avith the eggs, then the cheese, lastly 
the flour, working until the mixture is of creamy lightness. Spread 
thickly upon slices of lightly toasted bread and brown cjuickly in the 
oven. Or, grate a half pound cheese and melt two ounces butter ; 
while the latter is getting cool mix it with the cheese and well-beaten 
whites of three eggs ; lay buttered papers in a frying pan, put in 
slices of bread and lay the cheese mixture on top ; set it over the 
fire for about five minutes, then take it off and brown with a 
salamander. 

Scotch Rare-hit. — Cut nice, rich, sound cheese into rather thin 
slices, melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and 
when m(4ted add a small quantity mixed mustard and a seasoning 
of pepper. Stir the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then 
brown it before the fire or with a hot salamander. Serve with dry 
or buttered toasts, whichever may be preferred. If the cheese is not 
very rich a few pieces of butter may be n^ixed with it to great ad- 
vantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts, and 
then laid in the cheese-toaster. Whichever way it is served it is 
highly necessary that the mixture be very hot and very quickly sent 
to table. 

WelsJi Bare-hit. — Cut bread into slices about half an inch in 
thickness, allowing a slice for each person ; pare off the crust, toast 
the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and spread it 
with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from 
a good rich fat cheese ; lay them on the toasted bread in a cheese- 
toaster ; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be equ-al- 
ly melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a sea- 
soning of pepper, and serve ver}^ hot, with very hot plates. To facil- 
itate the melting of the cheese it may be cut into thin flakes or 
toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essen- 
tial to send this dish hot to table it is a good plan to melt the cheese 
in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table, 
allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should 
always accompany them, Avith mustard, pepper and salt; or stir to- 
gether in a saucepan over the fire until smoothly blended, four 
heaping tablespoons grated cbeese, two of butter, one oi milk, salt- 
spoon each salt and clry mustard, quarter of pepper and a dust oi 
cayenne. The pan must be hot and rubbed well with butter before 
putting in the cheese ; stir rapidly and when melted put in butter, 



CHEESE. 196 

next mustard and pepper. Some add a cup bread-crumbs soaked 
in a little milk, which should be pressed dry and put in last. Or 
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs may be added after the butter and 
cheese are melted. Have ready some nicely-toasted slices of bread 
cut in square or diamond-shaped pieces of any size desired, and 
serve at once on a hot platter, as it is quite spoiled if allowed to get 
cold. The mustard may be omitted if desired, and some think it 
more delicate to dip the toast quickly, after buttering, into a shallow 
pan of boiling water; have some cheese ready melted in a cup, and 
pour some over each slice. The best way to serve is to have little 
plates made hot, place a slice on each plate, and serve one to each 
person. The Welsh rare-bit makes a decidedly pretty course, served 
in little chafing-dishes in silver, or plated silver, about four inches 
square, one of which, standing in a plate, is to be served to each 
person at table. The reservoir contains boiling-hot water ; the little 
platter holds the slice of Welsh rare-bit, which is thus kept hot. A 
poached egg is sometimes placed on each slice, and it is then served 
under the name of _ Golden Bucli. Poach the eggs in boiling water 
seasoned with a little salt, half gill vinegar and teaspoon butter, 
place a slice of fried or boiled bacon on top of the poached eggs 
and it is sent to table as Yorkshire Bare-hit. 

To Toast Cheese. — Grate or slice the desired quantity of cheese 
and put with a bit of butter into the cheese toaster, ^ fet -- , , „„:,m„ ^ ^ 
which is prepared by filling the bottom with hot MT^^'^^tI 'ii 
water. Our engraving illustrates a cheese toaster llil.::. --^^iil^^ 

with hot water reservoir ; the cheese is melted in "^"""""cheese ToastelT" 
an upper tin placed in the reservoir. If one of these useful little 
utensils cannot be had, melt the cheese in a pie tin on back of stove 
or range, or over a kettle of hot water. 

English Bread and Butter. — This is to serve with a cheese 
course. Cut an even slice ofl' a large loaf of fresh home-made bread, 

butter the cut end of the loaf thinly,^ iimi 

then hold it against the side with the^SPii 
left hand and arm, and with a sharp, 
thin knife, cut an even slice not more than an eighth of inch thick ; 
a little practice and a steady grasp of the bread and knife will en- 
able any one to produce regular whole slices ; fold each slice double 
with the butter inside, and serve them on a clean napkin. The 
slices may be rolled like a napkin, and served, in this 
lii case bake the bread in the tbllowing manner : When 
■^"^^ ^ risen in the single loaf pan, invert it upon an ordi- 
■steamed" Bread Pan. uary drlppiug-pau , Icaviug the other pan still over 
the loaf, as illustrated, and bake as other bread, taking off upper 
pan at end of one hour to see if it is done. This bread is more 
easily rolled than any other, and is also prized for eating as well as 
rolling ; slice and roll as directed in Wedding Rolls. 



196 CHEESE. 

Fromage. — Beat two eggs very light, stir in a half pint cream 
and add a half pound grated cheese and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; 
pour into buttered soup plates, bake fifteen minutes and serve. 

Italian Balls. — Boil together tablespoon butter and eight of 
water, add pinch each salt and pepper, ten tablespoons flour and 
three of grated Parmesan cheese, stirring all the time, and boil a 
a minute or two. Take off" and stir in thoroughly three well-beaten 
eggs. Divide mixture into balls and i)oach them in three-quarters 
pint boiling milk ; when done place on sieve to drain. Make a sauce 
of tablespoon butter, four of flour and one and a half pints milk ; 
let simmer for fifteen minutes or till it thickens. Put a layer of 
balls in a small baking dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then a 
layer of the sauce ; repeat till dish is full, strewing grated cheese 
over the top ; brown in oven and serve hot. Very delicious. 

Moch-Crah. — Break up a half pound soft rich cheese with a 
cheese-knife, or fork, mix with it a teaspoon dry mustard, a salt- 
spoon salt, half a saltspoon pepper and a dessert-spoon vinegar ; 
serve it cold with a plate of thin bread and butter or crisp crackers. 

RagamuMns. — Take raised biscuit dough, roll out to inch thick- 
ness, -sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, roll uj? like a jelly roll, 
cut in about inch slices from the end and place in pans, with cut 
side down ; let rise a little while and bake quickly. Baking powder 
dough may be used, placing at once in oven. Very nice. 

SpagJieiti Butter. — Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a 
solid cord instead of a tube. Take two cups broken spaghetti, one 
each of minced cheese and milk, butter size of an egg, and two 
yolks of eggs. Throw the spaghetti into water that is already boil- 
ing, and salted. After cooking twenty minutes drain it dry, and 
put it into the buttered dish in which it is to be baked. Put the 
cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucepan and stir them 
over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted ; mix the yolks with the 
rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, then add the whole to 
the spaghetti in the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short a 
time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through 
the toughening of the cheese. This butter ought to be yellow as gold. 

Scallopade. — Soak one cup dry bread-crumbs in new or fresh 
milk. Beat into this three well-bcalen eggs. Add tablespoon melted 
butter and a half pound grated cheese. Sprinkle the top with sifted 
bread-crumbs and bake in the oven a delicate brown. A delicious 
relish to eat with thin bread and butter. 



CBIXKS. 197 



DRIISTKS. 



Beside the wines and liquors still served at so many tables, 
though rigorously and wisely excluded from many others, and the 
universal and well-nigh indispensable coffee and tea, there are in- 
numerable pleasant, refreshing drinks that are easily concocted and 
within the reach of all. The basis of most of these is the juice of 
fruits, which, combined with sugar and flavoring in liked propor- 
tions, forms an infinite variety of healthful as well as pleasing bev- 
erages. 

A knowledge of the proper preparation of the two every-day 
beverages, coffee and tea, should be among the acquirements of every 
housekeeper. To avoid adulteration, buy coffee in the grain, either 
raw or in small quantities freshly roasted. In selecting raw coffee 
choose that which is dry and light ; if it feels dense and heavy it is 
green ; buy that at least eight or ten months old, and the claim is 
made that the longer the raw berry is kept the riper and better 
flavored it becomes. The best kinds are the Mocha and Java, and 
some prefer to mix the two, having roasted them separately in the 
proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. 
Mocha alone is too rough and acrid, but thus blended it is delicious. 
Pure Java, if of a high order, does not need other brands of coffee 
to make it palatable ; but, as a rule, above mixing, or one-third each 
of pure Mocha, Java, and Maracaibo, makes a rich cup of coffee, 
while a mixture of two-thirds Mandehling Java and one-third ''male 
berry" (so called) Java produces excellent results; or one pound 
Java to about four ounces Mocha and four ounces of one or two 



198 DRINKS. 

other kinds ; and it is said that from three parts Rio, with two parts 
Old Government Java, a coffee can be made quite as good, if not 
superior, to that made of Java alone. West India coffee; though of 
a different flavor, is often very good. Mexico coffee is quite accept- 
able, but the producers must clean it properly if they expect to 
receive patronage. Java, or East India coffee, may be known by 
its large yellow beans ; Mocha comes from Arabia and has small gray 
beans inclining to greenish. The Rio berries are of the same color 
with the greenish tinge, but are of larger size, midway between Mo- 
cha and Java. In buying roasted coffee ascertain that it has been kept 
in closel}^ covered air-tight tin box, as if in pine it will be flavored with 
pine, and purchase of a dealer who roasts frequently, or buys roasted 
coffee in small lots. Coffee roasted by machinery is of course more 
evenly browned, but by roasting it at home one is sure of having it 
perfectly fresh and pure. When buying roasted coffee compare it 
with the raw beans of the kind desired. If pure and properly 
roasted the coffee will be of a rich brown color and have increased 
fifty per cent in bulk, or each bean will be a half size larger than 
when raw. Coffee loses twenty-five per cent its weight in roasting 
a pound of raw coffee making only three-quarters of a pound 
roasted. 

Roast coffee with the greatest care — for here lies the secret of 
success in coffee-making — and in small quantities, for there is a 
peculiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. To make the m.ost 
perfect and delicious coffee, the desired quantity should be roasted 
just before it is made. But this involves more time and trouble 
than can be given by most housewives for every-day use. Pick over 
carefully, wash if berries are not clean, and weigh (the best will not 
iieod washing), and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and 
mast quickly, either in the oven or on top of the stove or range ; in 
the latter case stir constantly and in the oven stir often with a 
wooden spoon or ladle kept for this purpose. The coffee must be 
thoroughly and evenly roasted to a dark rich brown (not black) 
throughout, and must be free from any burnt grains, a few of which 
will ruin the flavor of a large quantity. It must be tender and brit- 
tle, to test which take a grain, place it on the table, press with the 
thumb and if it can be crushed, it is done. Blow off any loose par- 
ticles separated by the heat and stir in a lump of butter while the 
coffee is hot, or wait until about half cold and then stir in a well- 



DRINKS. 199 

beaten egg. The latter plan is very economical, as coffee so pre- 
pared needs no further clarifying. A French method of roasting 
coffee is to add to every three pounds coffee a piece of butter the size 
of a nut and a dessert-spoonful powdered sugar, and then roast in 
the usual manner. The addition of the butter and sugar develops 
the flavor and aroma of the berry, but the butter must be of the very 
best. Another French method is to roast, grind to a flour, moisten 
slightly, mix it with twice its weight in sugar and then press into 
tablets, using a tablet when needed. Keep coffee in a closely cov- 
ered tin or earthen vessel. Never attempt other work while roasting 
coffee but give it the entire attention. Grind quantities as needed, 
for the flavor is dissipated if it is long unused after grinding, even 
when under cover. The grinding is a very important part of the 
preparation of coffee, and the old method, still very generally prac- 
ticed, was to grind into coarse particles, but it is now claimed that 
if ground too coarse much of the strength and aroma of the coffee is 
lost ; by grinding as fine as possible these qualities are much more 
perfectly preserved, and the only objection urged is that it is dif- 
ficult to make the beverage clear. This may be obviated by filtering, 
or using the sack described in Filtered Coffee, as the little wire cups 
opening in center for holding coffee are not fine enough, though 
some inventive genius will doubtless soon bring forwa-rd a strainer 
of the requisite fineness for this purpose. Many grind coffee mod- 
erately fine or to particles the size of pin heads, obtaining there- 
from a satisfactory beverage, and claim that this grinding frees the 
oil, as it should be, and any finer develops properties very injurious. 
A step furtheris to reduce the coffee to a fine powder — as fine as flour. 
If appliances for doing this are not at hand then the dealer must be 
depended upon, but prepare at home if j)ossiMe, and thus secure 
perfectly fresh and unadulterated coffee. When necessary to pur- 
chase of a dealer be sure that the coffee is roasted and ground fre- 
quently, if not daily, and buy only in small quantities sufficient for 
a week's consumption is a good rule, though for large families it has 
been bought in five-pound cans, and by keeping closely covered was 
thought to have lost but little of its strength and flavor. In any 
case, keep in air-tight can. 

MAKING COFFEE. 

To make coffee from the powder it Avill be necessary to use a 
patent pot or put the powder in the sack described below. The pow- 



y 



200 DKINKS. 

der is claimed to be much more economical than the ordinary ground 
coffee, requiring only about one-third as much, or one teaspoon to 
each person (with half pint water), and is also much more quickly 
made, the boiling water filtering through and the coffee being ready 
to serve within a minute or two after it is put in the sack. The old- 
fashioned way of making coffee by boiling is still practiced'by prob- 
ably a majority of housekeepers. ''One for the pot" and a lieaping 
tablespoon ordinary ground coffee for each person, is the usual al- 
lowance. Mix well, either with a part or the whole of an egg when 
only a part is used putting in the shell also, and when eggs are 
scarce some are careful to wash shells before breaking, and keep for 
this purpose, crushing three or four into the pot instead of the egg; 
or codfish skin washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, may be used 
and enough cold water to thoroughly moisten it, place in a heated, 
well-scalded coffee-boiler, pour in half the quantity of boiling water 
needed, allowing one pint less of water than there are tablespoons of 
coffee. Roll a canton flannel cloth tightly — one must be kept for 
this purpose and washed and dried after using — and stop up the 
nose or spout, thus keeping in all the coffee flavor. Boil rather fast 
five minutes, stirring down from the top and sides as it boils up, 
and place on back part of stove or range where it will only simmer 
for ten or fifteen minutes longer. When ready to serve add the re- 
mainder of the boiling water Some think the flavor is better pre- 
served to put a small quantity of cold water with the coffee, bring it 
to boiling point and add sufficient boiling water. Or, another method 
of making coffee without clearing is to stir the coffee directly into 
the boiling water, boil and simmer as above, then pour out a large 
cupful, and, holding it high over the pot, pour it in again ; repeat 
this, and set it on stove where it will keep hot, without simmering. 
The coffee will be clear if instructions are carefully followed. 
Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover close- 
ly, boil one minute, remove to the side of the stove a few minutes to 
settle, and serve. Allow two heaping tablespoons coffee to a pint 
waterv The less time the coffee is cooked the more coffee of ordi- 
nary grinding is required, but the finer the flavor. The late Profes- 
sor Blot protested against boiling the coffee at all, as in his opinion 
the aroma was evaporated, and only the bitter flavor left. The ad- 
vantages of boiled coffee are that when the egg is used the 3'olk 
gives a very rich flavor, and when the milk or cream is added the 



DRINKS. 201 

coffee has a rich, yellow look, which is pleasing. It has also a pe- 
culiar flavor, which many people prefer to the flavor gained by any 
other process. The disadvantages are that the egg coats the dry 
coflee, and when the hot water is added the coating becomes hard, 
and a great deal of the best of the coffee remains in the grounds 
after boiling, compelling one to use nearly double the amount of 
coflee. Also, in boiling, much of the fine flavor is lost in the steam 
that escapes from the pot, and the tannic acid of the coffee is ex- 
tracted, which in combination with the milk or cream taken Avith it 
hardens the albumen they contain into, an indigestible compound 
that is excessively irritating to the delicate internal membranes. 

For these reasons the practice of making coffee without boiling 
is gradually becoming more general. And for this a fair proportion 
for good coffee is three tablespoons of the pure ground berry to each 
quart water, which makes sufficient for three persons. The water 
must be boiling when poured on the coflee but must not boil after- 
ward. The vessel in which it is made must stand near enough the 
fire to be kept as hot as possible without boiling for five or ten min- 
utes before using. If made in a pot containing a strainer the coflee 
will be clear, and if made in an ordinary pot or pitcher it should be 
stirred for three minutes after pouring boiling water over it, to thor- 
oughly saturate the grounds and so cause them to sink to the bottom 
of the pot. If coflee is allowed to stand for about ten minutes to 
settle, and is poured off carefully, it will be perfectly clear. The 
water used in making coflee should be fresh and have boiled two or 
three minutes before pouring over the coffee ; never take that which 
has stood long in the tea-kettle. Always have the coffee-pot hot 
before putting in the coflee. Many think that heating the dry coffee 
just before making improves its flavor. When serving coffee have 
the cups hot. They are very easily heated when coffee is poured at 
table by filling first with hot water from the water-pot. that should 
always be provided, and turning it into the slop-bowl. If served from 
butler's pantry, set cups over the heater, or fill first with hot water, 
as at table. Serve both coffee and tea with the richest cream, but 
where this cannot be had, a substitute is prepared as follows : Take 
fresh, new milk, set in a pan or pail in boiling water where it will 
slowly simmer, but not boil or reach the boiling point, stir frequently 
to keep the cream from separating and rising to the top, and allow 
to simmer until it is rich, thick and creamy. In absence of both 



202 DRINKS. 

cream and milk tho whites of fresh eggs beaten to a froth, with a 
small bit of butter well mixed in, may be used, taking one egg for 
every two cups, and placing the froth in the cup first ; in pouring 
the cofi'ee or tea it must be turned on gradually and constantly stirred 
so as not to curdle the egg ; or omit the butter and use the whole egg ; 
or for a richer dressing with cream, beat the white of an egg to a 
stiff froth, mix with an equal quantity of whipped cream, put in 
plain cream first, then coffee and lastly this mixture. Physicians 
say that coffee without cream is more wholesome, particularly for 
persons of weak digestion. There seems to be some element in the 
coffee which, combining with the milk, forms a leathery coating on 
the stomach and impairs digestion. The convenient coffee or tea 
strainer, of which an illustration is given, is applied or detached in a 
moment, being held in place by a spring, as 
shown in cut, inserted in the spout. The 
strainer separates the dregs from the tea or 
coffee as it is poured. It is made to fit any 
coffee or tea-pot. The solid rim is of pure 
britannia and is easily kept clean and 
bright. A similar strainer is made to attach, 
to the faucets of urns. In serving from the 
butler's pantry the liquid may be poured into cups through a small 
handled strainer answering the same purpose. To keep the coffee- 
pot or tea-pot thoroughly pure, boil a little borax or soda in them, 
in water enough to touch the whole inside surface, once or twice a 
week, for about fifteen minutes. No dish-water should ever touch 
the inside of either. It is sufficient to rinse them in two or three 
waters ; this should be done as soon after they are used as possible. 
Drain dry, and when ready to use, scald out in two waters. These 
precautions will aid in preserving the flavor of the tea and coffee. 

FILTERED COFFEE. 

The French coffee biggin furnishes the easiest means for filter- 
ing coffee. It consists of two cylindrical tin vessels, one fitting into 
the other ; the bottom of the upper one is a fine strainer, another 
coarser strainer is placed on this with a rod running upwards from 
its center; the finely ground coffee is put in, and then another 
strainer is slipped on the rod, over the coffee, the boiling water is 
poured on the upper sieve and falls in a shower upon the coffieey 




DEINKS. 203 

filtering through it to the coarse strainer at the bottom, which pre- 
vents the coffee from filling up the holes of the finer strainer below 
it. The coffee thus made is clear and pure ; the pot must stand 
where it will keep hot until the water has entirely filtered through. 
When wanted extra nice the coffee is turned out into a hot measure 
and poured through the filter again. Let stand a moment on the 
range and it will be as clear as wine. But unless the pot, measure 
and water are very hot, the coffee will taste as though it had become 
cold and then been " warmed over." No eggs or other foreign sub- 
stances are used to clear or settle the coflee. 

The National, Minute and other patent coffee-pots are too widely 
known to need description here, but the " gude wife " can improvise 
one equally as desirable and much simpler. Make a sack of fine 
flannel, or unbleached muslin, half so long as the coffee-pot is deep, or 
shorter will do, and a little larger than the top ; stitch up the side 
seam to within an inch and a half of the top, bend a piece of small 
but rather stiff wire in a circle and slip it through a hem made 
around the top of the sack, bringing the ends together at the open- 
ing left at the top of the side seam. Having put the coffee in the 
sack, lower it into the coffee-pot with the ends of the wire next the 
handle, spread the ends of the wire apart slightly, and push it down 
over the top of the pot. The top of the sack will then be turned 
down a little over the outside of the pot, a part of it covering the 
^'nose," and keeping in all the aroma, the elasticity of the wire caus- 
ing it to close tight around the pot, holding the sack close to its 
sides. Instead of a wire (which must be removed to wash the sack 
after using), a tape may be used by tying the ends after turning the 
top of sack down. When the sack, with the coffee in, it is in its 
place, pour the boiling water slowly over the coffee, that the infusion 
may be stronger, close the hd tightly, and let simmer (not boil) fif- 
teen minutes to half an hour. In pouring for the table raise the 
sack off the nose, letting it remain in the pot or not. This makes 
good cofifee without eggs or anything else to settle it. Good clear 
coffee is made without the filter, but on the same principle, by putting 
the coff"ee in a vfell-made and closely tied muslin bag, so that none 
of the grounds may escape and muddy the coffee, which is placed 
in any clean pot and boiling water poured over. Let it come to the 
boiling point, and stand a few moments to settle. Should it not do 
Bo rapidly enough, pour a few tablespoons cold water round the in- 



204 DRINKS. 

side edge of the coffee-pot. It is advisable to tie a thread to the bag 
with which to remove it from the pot. 

MAKING TEA. 
"Polly put the kettle on, and we'll all take tea." 

Of all "cups that cheer," there is nothing like the smoking-hot 
Clip of tea, made with hoiling water, in a thoroughly scalded tea-pot, 
which is thus both cleansed and heated. Put into the pot the re- 
quired amount of tea, allowing one teaspoon tea and one tea-cup 
water for each person, or one gill tea for five persons, though some 
who like it very strong add "one for the pot," while the rule of oth- 
ers is one teaspoon tea to two cups water, pour over it boiling water, 
cover the tea-pot so that no steam may escape, and allow the tea to 
stand in a hot place and infuse, not boil, for seven minutes, when it 
should be poured at once into the cups, or instead of pouring over 
the tea all the water needed at first, only pour from a half to three- 
fourths pint, or simply cover the tea and let it stand to infuse in 
same manner, then add remainder of boiling water and serve. If 
allowed to infuse longer than this time, which is sufficient to draw 
out the strength of the leaf, the tannin is developed, which gives an 
acrid, bitter taste, and, being a powerful astringent, is destructive to 
the coating of the stomach. The tea will be quite spoiled unless 
made with water that is actually hoilinf/, as the leaves will not open, 
and the flavor not be extracted from them ; the beverage will conse- 
quently be colorless and tasteless, — in fact, nothing but tepid water. 
Where there is a large company, it is a good plan to have two tea- 
pots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot ; the tea, 
besides, will go further. When the infusion has been once completed;, 
the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength ; so, when 
more is required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, 
and fresh tea made in the usual manner. 

Tea is one of those luxuries which custom clothes in the gar- 
ments of necessity. There is, however, in connection with tea one 
point which should not be forgotten. To maintain ordinary health 
the body requires immediate nourishment early in the morning, and 
for that reason tea, which retards the action of the natural functions, 
should be banished from the breakfast table, and should appear at 
lunch and after dinner. Certain rules should be followed by habit- 
ual tea-drinkers, if they wish to use their favorite beverage without 



DKINKS. 205 

njurious effects : After a full meal, when the system is oppressed ; 
for the corpulent and the old ; for hot climates, and especially for 
those who, living there, eat freely, or drink milk or alcohol ; in cases 
of suspended animation ; for soldiers and others marching in hot 
climates ; for then, by promoting evaporation and cooling the body, 
it prevents in a degree the effects of too much food, as of too great 
heat. It is a mistake to make tea strong, if the full flavor is desired. 
Professional tea-tasters use but a single pinch to a cup of boiling 
water. In China and Russia, where tea is made to perfection, it is 
very weak, boiling water being poured on a fev*^ leaves, the decoction 
covered for a few minutes, and then drank hot and clear. Two 
minutes is long enough for tea to stand, and it should never be 
boiled, or the fine aroma which exists in the volatile oil will 
be thrown off by evaporation, leaving as flavoring only the 
principle of the tannic acid extracted by boiling. If tea 
be ground like coffee, or crushed immediately before hot water 
is poured upon it, it will yield nearly double the amount of its exhil- 
arating qualities. Freshly boiled soft water is the best for either tea or 
coffee, and the tea should be added as soon as it boils, as boiling 
expels all the gases from the water ; but if soft water can not be 
had, boil hard water from twenty to thirty minutes before using ; the 
boiling drives off the gases in this case, but it also causes the lime 
and mineral matters, which render the water hard, to settle, thus 
softening it ; and to avoid the limy taste often in water boiled in a 
tea-kettle, put a clean oyster shell in the kettle, which will always 
keep it in good order by attracting all particles that may be impreg- 
nated in the water. If hard water must be used in making tea, a 
little carbonate of soda put into the tea-pot will both increase the 
strength of thetea^nd make it more nutritious, the alkali dissolving 
the gluten to some extent. The best tea-pot is that which retains 
heat longest, and this is a IrigJit metal one, as it radiates the least 
heat, but the metal must be kept bright and polished j some still pre- 
fer the old-fashioned earthen pot. The most elegant mode of serving 
tea is from the tea-urn, various forms and designs of which are made 
in silver and plated ware. Always have a water-pot of hot water on 
the waiter with which to weaken each cup when desired. To insure 
"keeping hot " Avhile serving in a different tea-pot from that in 
which the tea is made, the simple contrivance known as the 
"bonnet," or "cozy," is warranted a sure preventive against that 




206 DRINKS. 

most insipid of all drinks — a warmish cup of tea. It is merely a 
sack, with a loose gathering-tape in the bottom, large enough to 
cover and encircle the tea-pot, with a small opening to fit the spout, 
and a slit though which the handle 
will be exposed. Make it with odd 
pieces of silk, satin or cashmere, 
lined, quilted or embroidered; drawi 
this over the tea-pot as soon as the 
tea is poured into it ; draw up the 
gathering, string tiojhtly at the hot- Tea or coiree stand, 

torn, and the tea will remain piping hot for half an hour. Some 
make a simple, quilted, oval case entirely covering the pot and reach- 
ing quite to the teapot stand, lifting it off each time the tea is poured. 

The tea-float is a very useful addition to the tea-pot. The tea is 
placed in the float, and the float in the tea-pot. Boiling water is 
added as in ordinary tea-making. The fl.oat rises to the surface and 
thus retains the tea at the hottest part of the water, instead of its 
sinking to the bottom, which is the coldest part. By this applica- 
tion of natural laws and the chemistry of tea-making all the strength 
of the tea is withdrawn, and the infusion is far stronger than when 
prepared in the usual way. A smaller quantity of tea is therefore 
required when the tea-float is used. The float can be procured of 
any grocer or tea dealer. Some consider high priced teas less desir- 
able for general use than the medium qualities, both on account of 
their prices, and because, owing to their purity and strength, they 
abound in deleterious properties. 

The tea-pot should not only be emptied after being used, but 
made perfectly cl«an inside as well as outside. After a thorough 
wiping turn it upside down, that the drops may run froin the spout, 
and when ready to be put away twist the corner of the toAvel and 
wipe the inside of the spout, and put the tea-pot in its place with 
the cover raised ; when it is again required pour in boiling water to 
heat it thoroughly. It is well to keep a small tea-kettle for the 
express purpose of boiling water for tea, thus surely avoiding for 
this delicate drink the water which has boiled and re-boiled repeat- 
edly during the day for filling up the various kettles. 

The green teas are the Gunjjowder, considered the best,- and 
Hyson sorts, with their different varieties, both of which are manu- 
factured in China and Japan, while only the former is obtained from 



DRINKS. 



207 



Java. The black teas are manufactured in China, Assam and Java, 
and from the two former countries come the Congo and Pekoe sorts 
under the Latter of which the Oolong, a general favorite, and 
Souchong varieties are classed. Java exports the Congo, and also a 
black tea made up into little balls the size of a pea, known as the 
Imperial. India gives the English Breakfast and Caper varieties. 
As is now well known the difference between green tea and black 
lies in the fact that in the former fermentation has been arrested by 
" firing, " the color of the leaf being in this way partially preserved 
and fixed, while with the latter, by a much longer process, fermen- 
tation up to a certain point is permitted, and the leaves are not "fired" 
until they have become oxidized by exposure to the air. Only green 
tea is manufactured in Japan, and is considered superior to that of 
China and Java, where the black teas are principally produced. The 
Chinese give an artificial coloring to the green teas exported, em- 
ploying for this purpose native indigo and gypsum. In Japan, tea is not 
grown for export only, but is the chief article of home consumption ; 
and the domestic teas as procured in that country are probably the 
only samples of unadulterated green tea to be had, and are known 
as the green Japan and uncolored Japan. In common usage Japan 
tea means the green variety, which is used largely in tea mixtures, 
while the uncolored is used more often by itself as is also the Gun- 
powder and Hyson. The first pickings of teas are considered choic- 
est, containing more of the oil, and prices are established in that 
way, consequently each variety will have a first, second and third 
grade. A cup of the finest tea will show particles of the oil upon 
its surface. 

The Chinese employ numerous odoriferous plants for the pur- 
pose of giving special scents to different varieties of tea. Some 
mixtures well liked are as follows, and it is most generally conceded 
that mixed tea is preferable : An excellent English mixture of black 
teas combines cheapness with fineness of flavor, and is composed of 
one pound of Congo tea with a quarter pound each of Assam and 
Orange Pekoe ; a mixture of black and green teas is four parts of 
black to one of green, but a very fine mixture in point of flavor ia 
one-half Oolong (black), one quarter each Gunpowder and green 
Japan, or three-fourths green Japan and one-fourth Oolong, or three- 
fourths English Breakfast and one-eighth each Gunpowder and green 
Japan ; or half each English Breakfast and any green tea. Where 




208 DRINKS. 

a mixture of uncolored Japan is used it is with an equal part of 
Oolong. Where health is taken into consideration the mixture using 
less of the green should be preferred, as owing to the 
different process of drying the green contains more^ 
of the injurious tannin. 

To preserve the strength of tea or coffee requires , 
a close receptacle. Nothing is better than the tin] 
cans with close covers, japanned on the outside sur- 
face, kept for sale for this purpose. They are made 
neatly labeled on the side for "tea" or "coffee," so 
that there is no mistaking the one for the other, and no loss of time 
in getting what is wanted. 

CACAO AND CHOCOLATE. 

Cacao (improperly called cocoa) and Chocolate, are obtained 
from the seeds of Theohroma cacao., a small tree that grows in Mex- 
ico, Central America, the West Indies and other islands. The seed 
receptacle resembles a large black cucumber, containing from ten to 
thirty beans, which are roasted like coffee. The husks are then 
taken off, and are called cacao shells. The best cacao is made from 
the bean after the husks are removed. 

Cacao is rich in nutritive elements. Like milk, it has all the 
substances necessary for the growth and sustenance of the body. 
The active principle is theobromine, a substance which resembles 
the alkaloids of coffee and tea, except that it contains more nitrogen 
than theine and caffeine. Another important difference between 
cacao and coffee or tea is the large amount of fat or cacao-butter 
contained in the kernel. These kernels consist of gum, starch and 
vegetable oil, and are marketed in four different forms : cacao shells, 
which are the husks of the kernel ; cacao nibs, the crushed kernel; 
ground cacao, the kernels ground fine, and chocolate, the kernels 
ground to a fine powder and mixed to a stiff paste with or without 
sugar, and sometimes a little starch. It is very nutritious, but be- 
ing rich in fatty matters is difficult to digest. For this reason many 
skim off the oil that rises to the surface as the beverage cools after 
boiling, and some manufacturers now remove the fats. A small cake 
weighing about two ounces will satisfy hunger, and is a good lunch 
for travelers, especially if eaten with fruit. Cacao and chocolate- 
while very nutritious, are perfectly free from the possible injurious 



DRINKS. 209 

influences of tea and coffee ; and the more finely powdered they are 
the more palatable and nutritious are the beverages made from them. 
Actual boiling is advantageous in the preparation of either, as it 
thoroughly incorporates them with the liquid used. Nearly all 
brands of cacao and chocolate are recommended to be prepared at 
table ; but it is much better to prepare them before the meal, and 
allow to boil a minute or two before serving. But too long boiling 
spoils the flavor. The custard kettle should be used in making 
cacao or chocolate, especially when milk is used, thus preventing 
the possibility of burning. A good proportion is one tablespoon of 
either cacao or grated chocolate to each person, with one-half pint 
milk, cream and milk, or milk and water, as used. If sweetened be- 
fore sending to table, the sugar must be stirred in after it has boiled, 
and a grain of salt is added by some after taking from the fire to 
remove the flat taste noticed. Excellent brands of chocolate are 
Baker's, Runkle's and Blooker's ;the two former come in cakes, both 
sweetened and unsweetened, and the latter in a fine dry powder, 
ready for use, which saves the trouble of grating and is preferred by 
many. Allow a large teaspoon of the powder to each cup milk, and 
mix to a paste with a little cold milk, then add boiling milk. 

In the preparation of the above, and all beverages and foods, be 
sure that the water used is pure and fresh. If there is any reason to 
suspect that it is not, have it holled before using. -As several pints 
of water are daily taken into the body, this is one of the most impor- 
tant foods we have, and good Avater should be one of the indispen- 
sables in every household. Distilled water is the nearest ally to abso- 
lutely pure water, but can not be prepared by any easy process at 
home and is made chiefly by chemists and druggists in their trade. 
It is sometimes very essential in illness. The purest waters we get in a 
natural state are, it is said, melted ice and snow. Rain water con- 
tains gases it absorbs in passing through the air, but is the best and 
purest water to use whe-n filtered ; spring or well water, though 
usually looking transparent enough and tasting well, is impregnated 
with saline matter; river water has a smaller quantity of saline mat- 
ter than spring water, but. its organic impurities are in all likelihood 
far greater, and before it can be utilized for drinking it must have its 
impurities removed by filtering. Filters are now comparatively inex- 
pensive, and every family valuing health should possess one. There 
are many good ones, the new upward filter possessing some advan- 



210 DKINKS. 

» 

tages over other kinds. To cool water without ice, put it into an 
earthen jug with a wet cloth wrapped about it, and hang in an open 
window where a breeze is blowing through ; the evaporation from the 
surface of the jug abstracts the heat from the water within. 



Bfoma. — Have three pints milk, or half milk and water, scald- 
ing over boiling water ; mix two or three tablespoons broma smooth 
with a few spoonfuls boiling water, and when the milk is hot stir it 
in, having first mixed half a gill or more of milk with the broma ; leave 
it ten minutes, or until slightly thickened, then serve. 

Cacao Nibs. — Put a gill of the cacao nibs in a pot with two 
quarts water, and boil gently one and a half to two hours. There 
should be a quart of liquid in the pot when done. If the boiling 
has been so rapid that there is not this quantity, add more water, 
and let it boil once again. Many people prefer half broken cacao 
nibs and half shell. If the stomach is delicate, this is better than 
all nibs. Sugar and cream are used, as with coffee. When making 
Cacao Shells use twice the quantity of shells, or less may be used 
v/ith same amount Avater, and boil as above ; or, if milk is liked, put 
over the fire with one quart water, and when nearly done add a quart 
milk. 

Chocolate. — Take six tablespoons scraped chocolate, or three of 
chocolate and three of cacao, dissolved in a quart boiling water, boil 
hard fifteen minutes, add one quart rich milk, let scald and serve 
hot ; this is enough for six persons. Cacao can also be made after 
this recipe. Some boil either cacao or chocolate only one minute 
and then serve, while others make it the day before using, boiling it 
for one hour, and when cool skimming off' the oil ; when wanted 
for use, heat it to the boiling point and add the milk. In this way 
it is equally good and much more wholesome. 

Chocolate. — For twelve people take six ounces chocolate, pour 
over it one pint boiling water, add eight ounces sugar and cook until 
it becomes a smooth paste. Then add enough sweet cream for the 
number of cups. Heat the whole^in a custard kettle and it is ready 
for use. This will of course be very rich. 

Meringued Chocolate. — Three pints fresh milk, three table- 
spoons Baker's chocolate, grated, two tablespoons sugar, powdered 
for froth. Heat milk to scalding. "Wet up chocolate with one cup 
boiling water and when the milk is hot stir this into it. Simmer 
gently ten minutes, stirring frequentl}''; Boil up briskly once, take 
fromthe fire, sweeten to taste, taking care not to make it too sweet, 
and stir in the whites of two eggs Avhipped stiff", without sugar. Pour 
into the chocolate pot or pitcher, which should be well heated ; have 



DRINKS. 211 

ready in a cream pitcher the well-whipped whites of three eggs with 
three tablespoons powdered sugar. Cover the surface of each cup 
with the sweetened meringue before distributing to the guests. If 
liked, substitute scented chocolate for Baker's. 

Vienna Chocolate. — Put into a coffee-pot set in boiling water one 
quart of new milk (or a pint each of cream and milk), stir into it 
three heaping tablespoons grated chocolate mixed to a paste with 
cold milk, let it boil tAVO or three minutes, and serve at once if "pos- 
sible, but if it has to stand a moment or two longer, set where it will 
keep hot, but not boil. If not wanted so rich use half water. Serve 
with sweetened whipped cream over the cups. 

W/)?'pped Chocolate. — Wet three tablespoons chocolate with a 
little boiling water; scald one quart milk, stir in the chocolate paste 
and simmer ten minutes ; put a whip-churn into the boiling mixture 
and churn steadily over the fire until it is a yeasty froth. Serve at 
once. Very delicious and easily prepared ; or, melt four ounces 
grated chocolate over a boiling kettle, add gradually three cups boil- 
ing Avater and one ounce sugar. Set it upon the fire, and when 
scalding hot pour it upon the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, AA'ith 
one and one-half gills cold water, aitf a pinch of cinnamon, and re- 
turn it to the fire for a few moments to cook the egg. It must not 
boil, but should be beaten Avitli an egg-beater all the time. Serve 
very hot. 

Army Coifee. — Coffee (or tea) may be made quickly by placing 
the required quantity of cold Avater in the pot and adding the coffee 
tied up in a sack of fine gauze or piece of muslin. Bring to boiling 
point, boil five minutes and serve. iMake Tea in the same way, 
except that the tea is nut loose in the Avater and simply alloAved to 
boil up once. 

Black Coffee. — It is well to make in a pot AA'itli a filter. Use one 
cup ground coffee to every quart boiling water ; put the coffee into 
the filter and pour the boiling Avater through it very gradually ; let 
it stand Avhere it Avill keep hot Avhile the Avater is being poured upon 
it ; do not stir or shake the coffee-pot, and serve the coffee as soon 
as all the Avater is added. When the black coffee is Avanted strong 
and bitter, it may be boiled for a fcAV moments. SerA^e in '' after 
dinner " coffee-cups at the close of the meal or in the parlor in half 
an hour. 

Clear Coifee. — Coffee can be made Avithout straining or clarify- 
ing, in any kind of tin or iron A'essel, in this way : Have ready Avater 
that is actually boiling ; heat the coarsely ground coffee one minute 
in a frying-pan, stirring all the time. For one quart use two table- 
spoons ground coffee. When coffee is hot pour boiling Avater upon 
it and stir Avith a spoon one minute ; let stand by side of fire Avhere 
it will keep hot but not boil, for one minute, then stir it again for 



212 DRINKS. 

one minute ; keep by the fire for two minutes to let it settle, then 
pour it into cups carefully enough to leave the grounds in the bottom 
of the coffee-pot. The object in stirring is to thoroughly saturate 
the coffee with the boiling water, so that the grounds Avill sink to the 
bottom by their own weight. 

Crust Coifee. — Brown in oven to almost charring,outside crusts, 
slices or any small pieces of white, rye or Graham bread (the latter 
is richer and gives a finer flavor), being as careful as in roasting 
coffee that it is not burned. Make in proportion of two quarts hot 
water to four or five slices, or their equivalent in small pieces, boil 
from an hour to an hour and a half and serve as other coffee, which 
it should resemble in color. Make as second rec^)e for Iced Tea and 
Iced Crust Coifee will result. 

Iced Coifee. — Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time 
and stronger. Add one-third as much hot milk as coffee and set 
away. When cold put upon ice. Serve as dessert with cracked ice 
in each tumbler. Or, make strong coffee and when it is cold mix it with 
an equal quantity of fresh cream, sweeten to taste and half freeze. 
Iced Tea may be made the same way, 

Imperml Coifee. — For two persons, take four rounding tea- 
spoons coffee tied up in a piece of Swiss muslin (leave plenty of 
room for expansion) ; pour on two cups boiling water, cover closely, 
and set back on the range about ten minutes. Break one egg in a 
large coffee-cuj), give it a good whip with an egg-beater, divide it 
half in each cup, add the usual quantity of sugar, pour on the hot 
coffee, add warm milk and one spoonful cream. 

Steamed Coffee. — Put coffee into the pot and pour boiling water 
on it; place this pot (which is made to fit) into the top of the tea- 
kettle and let cook from ten to twenty minutes while water in kettle 
is kept boiling all the time. This makes a clear, delicious coffee. 

Vienna Coifee. — Filter instead of boiling the coffee, allowing 
one tablespoon ground coffee to each person and " one for the pot." 
Put a quart of cream into a custard kettle or pail set in boiling water 
and put it where it will keep boiling. Beat the white of an egg to a 
froth and mix well with three tablespoons cold milk. As soon as 
the cream is hot remove from fire, add the mixed egg and milk, stir 
together briskly for a minute and then serve. 

Warmed-over Coifee. — Save all that is left after each meal, 
drain it off into a jar or earthen vessel, and when there is enough 
for a single meal, turn it into the coffee-pot, beat an egg thoroughly 
and stir well into it on the stove, and let it just come to boiling ; 
then take it off, pour in half cup cold water, and if the coffee was 
good Avhen first made, it will be just as good the second time. When 
a large quantity of coffee has been made for a party, the grounds 



DRINKS. 213 



should be drained and put away in a stone jar ; make coffee as usual 
except using double the quantity. It will keep good for weeks. 

Whipped Cream Coffee. — For six cups of coffee of fair size, 
take one cup sweet cream whipped light with a little sugar ; put into 
each cup the desired amount of sugar and about a tablespoon boil- 
ing milk ; pour the coffee over these and lay upon the surface of the 
hot liquid a large spoonful of the frothed cream, giving a gentle stir 
to each cup before serving. This is an elegant French preparation. 
Chocolate served in this way is delicious. 

White Coifee. — Use coffee that instead of being browned is 
only baked to a light yellow color and is not ground, or at most the 
berries are only bruised, taking one-half milk and one-half water. 
It requires twice as much coffee as the ordinary. For eight cups 
take two cups light baked coffee berries, four cups boiling water, 
five cups boiling milk. The berries may have been parched before, 
but when wanted heat them over again and throw them hot into the 
boiling water, close the lid and let stand to draw for one-half hour, 
then add the boiling milk through a strainer. When the milk is 
first set on to boil, put in a tablespoon or two of sugar to prevent 
burning at the bottom. Serve sugar with the coffee as usual, and, 
if for a party, a spoonful of whipped cream in each cup. 

Wine Coffee. — Put three ounces finely-pov/dered coffee in the 
top compartment of the percolator or coffee-pot, pour a quart boil- 
ing water over it, let filter through, add half a pint more boiling 
water; let filter through, and pour it out into a hot measure, and 
pour through the filter again. Let stand a moment on the range, 
and the coffee will be clear as wine. Care must be taken to have 
everything used very hot. 

Cafe au Lait. — First heat the coffee-cups and then fill each 
one-third full of hot but not boiled cream, filling up with good 
clear coffee. Or when cream cannot be had use boiled milk, in any 
proportion liked, being guided by the strength of the coffee. Half 
and half is a good rule, though some prefer more and others less 
coffee. A little cream turned into the cup with the hot milk just 
before filling up with coffee is a great improvement. Frothed Cafe 
au Lait is made as above, putting spoonfuls of the whipped whites 
of eggs, slightly sweetened, on the top of each cup, heaping a little 
in the center. 

Coffee for One Hundred. — Take five pounds roasted coffee, 
grind and mix with six eggs ; make small muslin sacks, and in each 
place a pint of coffee, leaving room for it to swell ; put five gallons 
boiling water in a large coffee urn or boiler having a faucet at the 
bottom ; put in part of the sacks and boil two hours ; five or ten 
minutes before serving raise the lid and add one or two more sacks, 
and if you continue serving several times add fresh sacks at regular 



214 DRINKS. 

intervals, taking out from time to time those first put in and filling 
up with boiling water as needed. In this way the full strength of 
the coffee is secured and the fresh supplies impart that delicious 
flavor consequent on a few moments' boiling. To make coffee for 
twenty persons, use one and a half pints ground coffee and one gal- 
lon of water. 

Coifee Syrup. — Take half pound best ground coffee, put it into 
a saucepan containing three pints water, and boil it down to one 
pint ; boil the liquor, put it into another saucepan, well scoured, and 
boil it again. As it boils add white sugar enough to give the con- 
sistency of syrup ; take it from the fire, and when it is cool put in a 
bottle and seal. AVhen traveling, if you wish for a cup of good 
coffee put two teaspoons of the syrup into an ordinary cup, and 
pour boiling water upon it, and it is ready to use. A weaker syrup 
is made thus : To every quarter pound ground coffee allow one small 
teaspoon powdered chicory, and one pint water. Let the coffee be 
freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly roasted ; put it into a filter 
with the chicory and pour sloidy over it the above proportion of 
boiling water. When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee 
sufficiently to bring it to the simmering point, but do not allow it to 
boil ; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, 
cork it well, and it will remain good for several days. Two table- 
spoons of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast cup of hot 
milk. This essence will be found particularly useful to those per- 
sons who have to rise extremely early, and having only the milk to 
make boiling, is very easily and quickly prepared. When the es- 
sence is bottled, pour about three tea-cups of hoiling water slowly 
on the grounds, which, when filtered through, Avill be a very weak 
coffee. The next time there is essence to be prepared, make this 
weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the ground cofiee instead of plain 
water ; by this means a better coffee will be obtained. Never throw 
away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner, 
and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation, until 
the clay that it is wanted for making the fresh essence. 

Iced Tea. — To have it perfect and without the least trace of bit- 
ter, put tea in cold water hours before it is to be used, the night pre- 
vious if for breakfast or twelve-o'clock dinner, and in the morning if 
for tea ; the delicate flavor of the tea and abundant strength will be 
extracted, and there will not be a trace of the tannic acid which ren- 
ders tea so often disagreeable and undrinkable. Use only the usual 
quantity of tea. Put broken ice in it a few minutes before serving. 
Iced tea can be served with a light froth like that of ale on top, if 
shaken with the ice in it in two glasses placed one over the other — the 
brims together. Another method is to prepare tea in the morning, 
making it stronger and sweeter than usual ; strain and pour into a 
clean stone jug or glass bottle, and set aside in the ice-chest until 



DBINKS. 21^ 



ready to use. Drink from goblets without cream. Se^e ice brokeii m 
3 pieces on a platter nicely garnished with well-was^ied grape- 
leaves ^iZlMee may be made same way. Iced tea may be prepared 
frmn either green or black alone, but it is considered an improvement 
to mix the two. Tea made like that for iced tea ( or that left in the tea- 
po after a meal) with a slice or two of lemon, J-- of ha fa kmon 
to each glass, well sweetened, and some pieces of cracked ice, makes 
a delightful drink, and is called Lemon lea. 

Tea for ForU/.—llaxe two and one-half gallons boiling water 
ready put a quarter pound tea in a box made of perforated tin, or 
In fmJisUn big, and \lrop it into the wafer, which --^ f - bo 
kent from boiling and set where it will be kept hot. May be sen ea 
ifke cX with whipped cream or a meringue of whites of eggs on 
each cup. 

Tea au Lait.—Beat a teaspoon or so of sugar with the whipped 
white of an etg stir in a glass^of new milk and then a cup ve^y hot 
+p.i bentino- all up well together and sweetening to taste. A\ery 
p^aSe mixtur^and valuable for persons who suffer much trom 
weakness. ' __^ 

S^rawherrv ^c?VZ.— Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two 
ouarfs ^^ter Tnd po 1 it upon twelve pounds strawberries m a por- 
Sn kettL ; let It simmei forty-eight hours, strain, takmgc^^^^^^ 
to bruise the fruit ; to every pint .luice add one ^^^^ «Jf f^^^^^P^^^^^^^^^ 
sugar and stir until dissolved, then leave it a few {^^^s bottle ana 
co?k lightly ; if a slight fermentation takes place leave the cork out 
a few da'^ then cork, seal and keep bottles in a cold phice Drmk, 
mixhig de ired quantity with ice water. To make Jioyal Strafer^jy 
5o.'c^takethree pounds ripe strawberries, two ounces citnc ac d ^^^d 
one quart water ; dissolve the acid in the water and pour it over the 
beirie. • let them stand in a cool phice twenty-four hours, draw off, 
and po^r in three pounds more berries and let ^tand t-^.ty- o^^^^ 
hours • add to the liquor its own weight of sugar, boil three or lour 
mrutes each day for three days, then cork tightly and seal. Keep 
in a dry and eool place. 

Iced Buitermilk.-There is no healthier drink than buttermillv^ 
but it must be creamy, rich buttermilk to be good And o. provide 
for this, when skimming the milk take plenty ot milk w i h the cream 
usin- a dipper for the purpose instead of a skimmer It shou d 
stand on icJto cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice m it is 
an improvement. As a drink for men at work m the hot sun butter- 
milH far preferable to cider or beer, as it is not only cooling and 
refreshing, but strength-giving; lor the butter ^^en from the milk 
is only the carbonaceous or heat-producing elejjient mid a 11 the 
nourishing qualities that make it so valuable as food aie left m the 
buttermilk. 



216 DRINKS. 

Cider. — Cider should be made from ripe apples only, and for 
this reason, and to prevent fermentation, it is better to make it late 
in the season. Use only the best flavored grafted fruit, rejecting all 
that is decaj'ed or wormy. The best mills crush, not grind, the 
apples. The utmost neatness is necessary throughout the process. 
Press and strain juice as it comes from the press through a woolen 
cloth into a perfectly clean barrel; let stand two or three days if 
cool, if warm not more than a day ; rack once a week for four weeks, 
put in bottles and cork tightly. This will make perfect unfer- 
mented cider. Do not put anything in it to preserve it, as all so- 
' called preservatives are humbugs. Lay the bottles away on their 
sides in sawdust. 

Bottled Cider. — Take good sweet cider (if a tart flavor is wished 
let it just begin to ferment), put on stove, skim, thoroughly (as the 
great secret is to remove all pumice from the cider), heat to boiling 
point, but do not allow it to boil, and then ])our in bottles or jugs, 
and seal while hot. Some put two or three raisins in each bottle or 
jug. This keeps all winter. It certainly makes a richer drink than 
when fresh, and as cider is pronounced a great remedy for colds, all 
should know this simple way of keeping. 

Mulled Cider. — Dilute cider with an equal rpiantity of water, 
and for every two quarts mixture allow the yolks of three or four 
eggs; beat eggs smooth, mix Avith a little cold cider, stir into the 
diluted cider and boil up, stirring rapidly all the time, using the 
whip-churn or egg-beater as in Whipped Chocolate. Sweeten to 
taste and season with allspice, imground, and drink either hot or 
cold. 

Currrj Cordial. — Boil one pint good milk and add a teaspoon 
curry powder and sugar to taste. Drink while hot. Good on a 
frosty morning. 

Raspberry Cordial. — Three quarts black raspberries and one 
quart vinegar ; let stand in stone jar two or three days, mashing 
thoroughly, strain, and to every pint s^n-up add one pound white 
sugar and set in cool place, stirring frequently. When the sugar is 
thoroughly dissolved, strain and bottle. No cooking is required ; it 
destroys the fruit flavor. For use, mix in a glass with ice-water ac- 
cording to taste ; nice in hot weather, or in sickness, particularly 
fevers. 

Ahnond Cream. — Wash, and pound in a mortar two ounces Jor- 
dan almonds, one-half ounce bitter almonds, that have been scalded 
and skimmed, together with a tablespoon orange-flower water and two 
ounces loaf sugar. Add a few drops water occasionally, while pound- 
ing, to avoid too much oiliness. When this mixture looks smooth 
and creamy, put it into a clean basin, add one pint water and stir 
with a silver or thin wooclen spoon. Leave it thus two hours, when 



DRINKS. 217 

strain off the cream, which should be kept either on ice, or in some 
exceedingly cool place, or it will perhaj^s turn sour. Serve with an 
equal quantity of water. 

Currant Cup. — To a pint currant juice add one pound sugar, 
and ice-water to taste ; mix and use at once. 

Fruit Cup. — Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lem- 
ons, squeeze the juice over it in an earthen bowl, and let it stand 
overnight if possible ; pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, 
and let it lay overnight in a half pound powdered sugar; crush one 
quart berries and let them lay overnight in half pound powdered 
sugar. If all these ingredients cannot be prepared the day before 
they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, because 
the juices of the fruit need to be incorporated with the sugar at least 
twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all the ingredients 
have been properly prepared as above, strain off the juice, carefully 
pressing all of it out of the fruit ; mix it with two pounds powdered 
sugar and three quarts ice-water, and stir until sugar is dissolved. 
Then strain again through a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve and put 
on the ice or in very cool place until wanted for use. 

Harvest DrmJc. — One quart water, tablespoon sifted ginger, 
three heaping tablespoons sugar, half pint vinegar ; add spices to 
taste if wished. 

Jelly Drinl'. — A little jelly or fruit S5^rup dissolved in a glass 
of ice-water with a little sugar is a refreshing drink. 

Lemon Drink. — Seven ])ounds white sugar, two quarts boiling 
water ; let boil ten minutes, then take off and let stand till cool ; add 
two ounces tartaric acid, one-half ounce gum arable, fifty-four drops 
essence of lemon. 

Oatmeal Drink. — Take four tablespoons Scotch oatmeal, put 
into a small jug and fill up with clear, cool water ; shake well and 
allow it to settle. This makes a most refreshing drink in hot weather 
and quenches thirst more than any other liquid. 

Soda Foam. — Two pounds white sugar, whites of two eggs, two 
ounces tartaric acid, two tablespoons flour, two quarts water and 
juice of one lemon ; boil two or three minutes, and flavor to taste. 
When wanted for use take a half teaspoon soda, dissolve in half a 
glass water, pour into it about two tablespoons of the acid, and it 
will foam to the top of the glass. 

Lemonade. — The method of making this universally popular 
and refreshing beverage varies according to the taste of individuals, 
some liking the flavor of the rind, others not, and some preferring 
more, others less sugar. It will be well to remember that when the 
rind or peel is used the lemonade is spoiled by standing, the soaked 
rind giving it a bitter taste, and to be good it must be served imme- 



218 DEINK3. 

diately after making. Instead of using cracked ice, many prefer to 
half freeze lemonades, sherbets, and all drinks of the kind, serving 
in glasses as usual, and this is considered much the more elegant 
way. Or the same effect may be jDroduced by pounding ice in a bag 
into fine particles and add to the lemonade, previously cooled on or 
with ice, just before serving. Or, if necessary to prepare hastily, 
ccack the ice into small bits and place some in the bottom of each 
glass before filling, beside adding it to the quantity of liquid. Always 
roll the lemons with the hand on the table before using, as this 
breaks up the fibers and the juice can then be extracted more easily 
and thoroughly ; and in making lemonade always remove the seeds. 
The best way of securing the flavor of the rind is to rub the lemons 
with lumps of sugar, or if there are no lumps sprinkle some of the 
sugar on a plate and roll the lemons over it ; this extracts the oil of 
the rind, and the sugar used, which is now called the "zest," is added 
to that intended for sweetening. Some boil the peel in a little water 
and strain it for flavoring, or let it stand in water an hour or two. 

A very nice Every-day Lemonade is made as follows : Roll six 
lemons well, peel, cut in halves, and 
with the lemon squeezer squeeze the 
juice over two cups white sugar, add 
the pulp and let stand till the sugar 
dissolves, add one gallon water and 
lumps of ice, pour into pitcher and 
rierve. Some add soda after the glasses 
are filled, and stir rapidly for Sparl'- 

Img Lemonade. If the flavor is liked Lemon squeezer^ 

add the zest from two or three of the lemons. Or, if wanted strong- 
er, take the juice of one dozen lemons, three quarts water, and eight 
ounces sugar, or sweeten to taste ; partially freeze, or add pounded 
ice. For Lemon Frappee add the wdiipped whites of six eggs. 
Some use a half pint lemon juice to three pints water and one pint 
sugar. Another excellent recipe requires one-half pound loaf sugar, 
three large or four small lemons, and a quart boiling w\ater. Rub 
some of the sugar, in lumps, on two of the lemons until they have 
imbibed all the oil from them, and put with the remainder of the 
sugar into a jug ; add the lemon juice (but no seeds), and pour over 
the Avhole the quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, 
strain lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and when 
cool it will be ready for use ; much improved by adding the well- 
beaten white of an egg. TiUti Frnittl Lemonade is made thus : 
Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons and 
steep it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil a pound and a half 
loaf sugar in three pints water, skimming until it is clear. Pour 
these two mixtures together ; add to juice of six oranges and 
twelve lemons, mix and strain through a jelly-bag until clear, and 
keep cool until wanted for use. If the beverage is to be kept several 




DRINKS. 



219 



days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and corked tightly. 
If for a small party, half the quantity will be sufficient. The Juice 
of oranges improves any lemonade. When a lemon squeezer is not 
at hand slice the lemons thinly into a crock or pitcher over the 
sugar, let stand a few minutes a"nd pound with the ])otato masher to 
extract the juice, add the water and strain. If it is thought that the 
slices of lemon add to the appearance of lemonade, cut one lemon 
in very thin slices for the purpose, sprinkling sugar over them, and 
add last, or put a slice or two in each glass. Orangeado is made 
same as lemonade, substituting oranges and using a little less sugar. 

Eifervescing Lemonade.— Work into one pound granulated 
sugar thirty-three drops oil of lemon, and sift through hair sieve ; 
sift into this two and a half ounces tartaric acid and then two and a 
half ounces carbonate of soda. Keep the compound air-tight and 
perfectly dry. Use by stirring two teaspoons of it into a glass of 
ice-water. Buy the materials of reliable druggist, and keep in tight- 
ly corked bottles. 

Egr/ Lemonade. — This recipe makes fifty glasses. Eight quarts 
water,' three pounds sugar (six or seven cups), two dozen lemons, 
two oranges, whites of eight or ten eggs ; grate the rinds of eight or 
ten lemons and the oranges into a large bowl, using a tin grater, and 
take less or more according to the size and degree of ripeness of the 
fruit. Put a little sugar in the bowl and rub together with the back 
of a spoon. Squeeze in the juice of all, add the sugar and some 
water, and then the frothed whites of eggs and beat the mixture until 
the sugar is dissolved. Put in remainder of water, strain into a ves- 
sel containing a quantity of cracked ice, and when served fill a glass 
three parts full, invert another on top, the rims close together, and 
shake up to make the foam. Use half or quarter of the recipe if this 
quantity is too large. 

Hot Lemonade. — To six lemons allow three-quarters pound 
lump sugar and a pint ])oiling water ; rub the lemons Avith some of 
the sugar, peel them very thin, strain the juice, put it with the sugar 
into a jug or pitcher and pour over it four pints boiling Avater ; cover 
the jug well with a cloth to keep in the steam and drink hot. Or, 
take the juice of one lemon for one glass and sweeten to taste. 
Excellent for a cold. 

Ifilk Lemonade. — Loaf sugar, one and a half pounds, dissolved 
in a quart boiling water, with half a pint lemon juice and one and q 
half pints milk. 

Picnic Lemonade. — Roll the lemons ; peel, and squeeze the 
juice into a bowl or tumbler — never use tin — and strain out seeds, a^ 
they give a bad taste. Boil the pulp in water, a pint to a dozen pulps, 
to remove the acid. A few minutes' boiline is enough. Strain the 



220 DRINKS. 

water into the juice of the lemons ; take a pound white sugar to a 
pint liquid, boil ten minutes, bottle, and it is ready for use. Put a 
teaspoon or two of this syrup to a glass of Avater. Or, roll the fruit 
in a little granulated sugar spread upon a marble or other hard 
surface to obtain the zest, squeeze the lemons into a bowl, remove 
seeds and add sugar and zest. Bottle and add a teaspoon or two to 
water as wanted. 

PocTiet Lemonade. — One ounce powdered tartaric acid, six 
ounces powdered white sugar and one drachm essence of lemon; mix 
and dry thoroughly in the sun, divide into twenty-four equal parts, 
and wrap carefully in paper ; each powder makes a glass of nice 
sweet lemonade. Most excellent and refreshing when traveling. 

Mead. — Three pounds brown sugar, one pint molasses, one- 
fourth pound tartaric acid ; pour over the mixture two quarts boil- 
ing water and stir till dissolved. AVhen cold add half ounce essence 
sassafras, or flavor with fruit juices, orange or lemon j^eel or aro- 
matic herbs, and bottle. To make a nice drink put three table- 
spoons of it in a tumbler, half fill with ice water, add a little more 
than one-fourth teaspoon soda and drink while foaming. 

Blacliherry dSfecfar. — To each quart water take one pound 
crushed berries, a sliced lemon and teaspoon orange floAver water ; 
mix and let stand in earthen bowl three hours ; strain thoroughly, 
squeezing all juice from fruit ; dissolve one pound sugar in the liquid, 
strain again and put on ice until ready to serve ; or half freeze it. 
Any other berries may be used in their season. 

Cherry Nectar. — Select the finest and ripest of May-Duke or 
Morello cherries. Pound Avell with stones in them. The stones are 
retained because they add to the native flaA^or of the pulp. Press 
out the juice through a hair sicA^e, add a little AA^ater and give one 
boil, filter through a flannel bag, add a small quantity syrup, a little 
lemon juice and a little more AA'ater. Do not make too SAA'eet. The 
tendency in all these cordials is to extinguish the sub-acids of the 
fruit in too much sugar. Put into a freezer surrounded by ice ; keep 
as cold as Avished by surrounding AAdth ice. Do not dilute it by put- 
ting ice into the bcA^erage itself. 

Cream Nectar. — Put into a porcelain kettle three pounds loaf 
sugar, two ounces tartaric acid and one quart Avater ; set on the fire, 
and Avhen AA-arm add the Avhites of tAvo eggs beaten to a froth, stir it 
Avell for a few minutes but do not let boil. When cool, strain and 
add a teaspoon essence of lemon and bottle. Put tAA'o tablespoonfuls 
in a glass, fill it half full of cold Avater and stir in one-fourth tea- 
spoon soda. Drink AA'hile eiferA^escing. 

Grape Nectar. — Stem and squeeze Avell two pounds Catawba 
grapes in a coarse cloth, add to the juice three tablespoons loaf 



DRINKS. 221 

sugar and when this is dissolved a cup cold water ; set on ice till cold, 
pour into pitcher over a lump of ice and drink at once. Add more 
sugar if liked, or if grapes are not quite ripe. Very good. 

Welsh Nectar. — Cut the peel of three lemons very thin, poui 
upon it two gallons boiling water, and when cool add the strained 
juice of the lemons, two pounds loaf sugar and one pound raisins, 
stoned and chopped very fine. Let stand four or five days, stirring 
every day, then strain through jelly-bag and bottle for present use. 

Orangeade. — Put thin peel of three oranges in one pint syrup 
(made by boiling three-fourths pound loaf sugar in one pint 
water). Press out the juice of twelve fine large oranges through a 
fine hair sieve into a crock or pitcher. Add the syrup and three pints 
cold water, mix,, and let stand in ice for an hour. 

Lemon Sherhet. — Grate the rinds of two lemons into a bowl and 
squeeze in the juice ; make a boiling syrup of one pound sugar and 
one pint water and pour it hot over this, and let remain till cold, or 
as long as convenient, to extract the flavor. Then add one ])int 
water, strain into the freezer and freeze as usual. When pretty well 
frozen whip whites of three eggs to a froth, stir them in, beat up 
and freeze again. Or soak tablespoon gelatine in a little cold water 
and add it to one pint boiling water ; then add pint each sugar and 
water and juice of five lemons and half-freeze ; or boil pint and a 
half sugar and three pints water half an hour; add juice of ten 
lemons, strain and half freeze. For Orange Shei^het make as either 
of above recipes using twice as many oranges, and if not very acid 
add juice of a lemon. For Pineapple Sherhet use one large pine- 
apple or one and a half cans. Cut hearts and eyes from the fruit, 
chop fine and add pint sugar and juice from can and the soaked table- 
spoon gelatine dissolved in half pint boiling water; then add half 
pint cold water and half freeze as above ; or cook fruit in pint water 
twenty minutes, and then pulp through a sieve ; boil a syruji of 
pint each sugar and water fifteen minutes and then add fruit i)ulp 
and cook fifteen minutes longer, add juice from cans and freeze. 

Milk Sherhet. — Boil two quarts milk ; when cold put into 
freezer. Take the juice of six or seven lemons — according to size, 
and one pound and a half sugar, dissolved in as little water as pos- 
sible. Whip whites of two eggs and stir in the milk ; add the lemon 
juice after it begins to freeze a little; then mix thoroughly and 
freeze. 

Pine-app>le Sherhet. — One pine-apple, four lemons, two quarts 
water, two teacups sugar; steep the pine-apple in the water for two 
hours; strain and add the juice of the lemons and sugar; whip the 
whites of five eggs, add to them three tablespoons sugar, place all in 
freezer and half freeze. Adding the sugar to the whites gives body 
to the sherbet; it is excellent. To one-half gallon rich lemonade 



222 DRINKS. 

add one can prepared pine-apple ; whip one pint cream and sweeten, 
add the whites of three well-beaten eggs and stir them both in just 
before freezing. Serve in glasses. 

Strawberry Sherhet. — Crush a pound berries and add to them 
one quart water, a sliced lemon, and .one teaspoon orange flower 
water, if at hand. Let stand in an earthen boAvl for three hours ; 
then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one 
pound powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on ice until 
ready to serve. Or mash two quarts berries and one pint sugar to- 
gether and let stand two hours, then add pint water and strain, rub 
through a sieve, soak a tablespoon gelatine in cold water to CDver, 
add half pint boiling water and pour this to the mixture and half 
freeze. Raspberry Sherbet is made same way. For Currant Sher- 
het, take pint each juice, water and sugar, one tablespoon gelatine, 
and juice of one lemon ; soak gelatine in a little cold water, and dis- 
solve it in half pint boiling water, add other ingredients and freeze ; 
or boil one quart water and pint sugar half an hour; add pint cur- 
rant juice and juice of a lemon, let cool and freeze. 

Currant Shriib. — Make the same as jelly, but boil only ten 
minutes ; Avhen cool, bottle and cork tight, as canned fruits. Rasp- 
berry^ Strawberry and Blackberry Shrubs can be made in the same 
way ; when used, put in two-thirds ice-water ; or place currants in 
crock and cover with a little water ; put in a kettle of hot water and 
when heated through, drain, let stand overnight and finish as Rasp- 
beny Shrub. 

Gooseberry Shrub. — Pour enough boiling water over green 
gooseberries to cover them, and place a cloth over them ; let stand 
till cold, drain, and place juice on stove, and when boiling pour 
again over the berries^ cover, cool, drain, and proceed as before. 
Then drain, let stand overnight, and finish as Raspberry. Shrub. 

Rasjjberry Shrub or Vinegar. — Place red raspberries in a stone 
jar, cover with good cider vinegar, using about one quart vinegar to 
two gallons fruit, let stand two or three days, strain through a jelly- 
bag, squeezing carefully ; let stand overnight so it Avill become per- 
fectly clear; measure and place on stove, and boil and skim until 
it boils up clear; add one pint sugar to every pint juice as just 
measured, and cook half an hour. Let stand till cold, then can and 
seal as directed in Canning Fruits. Some use one-third vinegar (one 
quart to two quarts fruit) but if fruit is juicy the above proportions 
make a much finer flavored shrub. Black raspberries may be used, or 
strawberries, making Strawberry Shrub, and blackberries, using 
for latter only a pint sugar to one quart juice, making Blackberry 
Shrub. Some, after straining, let it simmer on back of stove two 
hours, while others let boil te"n minutes, in either way canning when 
hot, but the above method has been "tried and not found wanting." 



DRINKS. 223 

Always procure very ripe, juicy fruit. For a drink use two or three 
teaspoons to one glass water, according to strength desired. 

Eifervescing Soda. — Mix half a teaspoon powdered bicarbonate 
of soda thoroughly with two tablespoons syrup of any flavor liked ; 
add six or eight times as much cold water; while stirring it mix in 
half teaspoon powdered tartaric acid and drink at once. This is for 
immediate use. Or mix the syrup and water in above proportions and 
fill into bottles ; put in each bottle half a drachm each of crj'stal- 
lized bicarbonate of potassa and crystallized tartaric acid and cork 
immediately. The above quantity is for soda bottles ; wine bottles 
will require double the quantity. 

Lemon Si/7'up. — Take the juice of twelve lemons, grate the rind 
of six in it, let it stand overnight, then take six pounds white sugar 
and make a thick syrup. When it is quite cool strain the juice into 
it and squeeze as mucii oil from the grated rind as will suit the taste, 
and bottle. A tablespoon in a glass of water will make a delicious 
drink on a hot day, far superior to that prepared from the stuff com- 
monly sold as lemon syrup. Or, boil two pounds loaf sugar with 
two pints water for fifteen minutes and put in a basin until cold. 
Pound one ounce citric acid to a powder and mix with it one-half 
drachm essence of lemon and add to the syrup, mi.K well and bottle 
for use. Two tablespoons of the syrup arc sufficient for a tumbler 
of cold water, and will be found a very refreshing summer drink. 

Orange Si/rup. — Use fully ripe thin-skinned fruit ; squeeze the 
juice through a sieve and add a pound sugar to every pint ; boil 
slowly ten minutes, skim carefully, and bottle when cold. Two or 
three tablespoons of this in a glass of ice water will be found a re- 
freshing summer drink. It may also be used with melted butter for 
pudding sauce. 

Tisane. — To make Prune Tisane., take of French plums or 
prunes two ounces and a half; cut them in two and boil them for an 
hour in a sufficient quantity of Avater to make a quart of tisnne ; 
strain through a sieve. Date, Fig and Jujube Tisanes are made in 
a similar manner. 

Currant Water. — Pick over one pound cur- 
rants and half pound raspberries and add one- 
half pint Avater, bruising or crushing all tcgetlier*- 
with a wooden spoon. Put the pulp into a pre- 
serving kettle with one-half pound crushed loaf 
sugar. Stir over the fire till just about to sim- 
mer, put through a puree sieve and add three 
gills syrup ^made with sugar and water as in Orangeade) and one 
and one-halt pints water. Let cool and bottle for use. 

Apple Water. — Cut tart apples in small pieces, rejecting the 




224 DRINKS. 

cores, and put over the fire in enough boiling water to cook them, 
with half their weiglit in sugar ; simmer half an hour, strain through 
a jelly-bag, cool in ice and drink with cracked ice. 

Pine-apple Wafer. — Peel and slice a nice large pine-apple, and 
pound to a pulp. When well mashed put it into a liasin, pouring 
npon it one pint boiling syrup as in Orangeade, add the strained 
juice of one lemon, stir all together and cover. Let stand for two 
hours untouched, then filter through a fine silk sieve and add a quart 
water. 

Ice- Cream Soda Water. — Put sufficient syrup of any flavor 
liked and a large tablespoon ice-cream into a large tuml)ler ; mix 
together with a spoon, fill up with bottled soda water made as in 
Effervescing Soda and quaff at once. If desirable, pounded or 
shaved ice may also be added to the contents of the tumbler before 
the soda water is poured in. 

Strawberri/ Water. — Crush with one-half pound finely sifted 
sugar one pound ripe red strawberries, and put them with one-half 
pint cold spring water. Filter this through a sieve into a pan, adding 
two pints water and the juice (strained) of one lemon. 



EGGS. 225 



E a GJ- S. 



There is onlj'- one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, 
ahhoiigh the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary 
somewhat, and among all nations they are a favorite article of food. 
They are pleasing to the palate, highly nutritious, and easy of di- 
gestion, and are said to contain all that is required for the construc- 
tion and sustenance of the human body ; so that eggs, even at a fancy 
price, are the cheapest of food and should form part of the daily 
bill of fare of every famih'. Either eggs or cheese or the two 
combined are good substitutes for meat, and in combination with 
vegetables are capable of sustaining strength equivalent to a meat 
diet. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and color. Those 
of the ostrich are the largest ; one laid in the menagerie in Paris 
weighed two pounds, fourteen ounces, held a pint, and was six inches 
deep, which is about the usual size of those brought from Africa. 
Travelers describe ostrich eggs as of an agreeable taste ; they keep 
longer than hens' eggs. The eggs of the turkey are almost as mild 
as those of the hen ; the egg of the goose is large, but well-tasted. 
Ducks' eggs have a rich flavor ; the albumen is slightly transparent, 
or bluish, when set or coagulated by boiling, which requires less time 
than hens' eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate 
than those of the hen. Eggs of wild fowl are generally colored, 
often spotted, and the taste usually partakes somewhat of the 
flavor of the bird they belong to. Those of land birds that are eaten, 
as the plover, lapwing, ruff, etc., are in general much esteemed ; but 
those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs 



226 EGGS. 

of the turtle are very numerous ; they consist of yolk only, without 
shell, and are delicious. Those of the common hen are most 
esteemed as delicate food, particularly when "new-laid," and those of 
the bantam have a peculiar, delicate flavor. The quality of eggs de- 
pends much upon the food given to the hen. Herbs and grain make 
a much better food than grain only ; when the hens eat too many 
insects the eggs have a disagreeable flavor. The eggs of ducks and 
geese are often used in cooking, but are of too coarse a nature to be 
eaten alone ; those of the turkey and pea-hen are highly esteemed 
for some purposes, and plovers' eggs are considered a rare table deli- 
cacy. Eggs are employed in a great many articles of cookery, en- 
trees, and entremets, forming an essential ingredient in pastry, 
creams, custards, etc., but are considered most easily digestible when 
little subjected to the art of cooking. The lightest way of dressing 
eggs is l)y poaching. The fresher they are the better and more 
wholesome, though new-laid eggs require to be cooked longer than 
others. Eggs over a week old will do to fry but not to boil. Do not 
mix eggs in tin ; always use earthenware. When eggs are wanted 
for boiling or packing, test them by putting in water in a vessel with 
a smooth level bottom ; the fresh eggs will sink quickly to the bot- 
tom, those that sink slowly are suspicious, and those that float are 
very likely to be bad ; or, those which lie on the side are good, but 
reject those which stand on end as bad. Still another test is to look 
through each egg separately toward the sun, or toward a lamp in a 
darkened room ; if the white looks clear, and the yolk can be easily 
distinguished, the egg is good ; if a dark spot appears in either white 
or yolk, it is stale ; if they appear heavy and dark, or if they gurgle 
when shaken gently, they are "totally depraved." The best and 
safest plan is to break each egg in a saucer before using in cooking, 
and never use one the least spoiled, as if only one egg is slightly 
tainted it will " leaven" the whole. 

MAKING OMELETS. 

There are numerous kinds of omelets, and, if properly made, 
they generally give satisfaction. As a rule an omelet is a wholesome, 
inexpensive dish, but yet one in the preparation of which cooks fre- 
quently fail, owing to ignorance of detail. The ingredients used 
may be varied indefinitely, but the process is always the same. Beat 




EGGS. 227 

the yolks lightly (twelve beats is said to be the magic number), as 
too much beating makes them thin and de- 
stroys the appearance of the omelet, then add 
the milk, the salt, pepper, and flour if any is 
used, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff 
froth. Some claim that salt mixed with the omeietpan. 

eggs prevents them from rising and gives the omelet a flabby ap- 
pearance, and so sprinkle with a little salt just before turning out on 
dish, or salt at table. Have the frying or omelet pan hot and dry. 
The best way to insure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the 
pan, let it simmer a few minutes, then pour it out, wipe the pan dry 
with a towel, and put in a tablespoon butter or American Cooking 
Oil and pour in the omelet, which should at once begin to bubble 
and rise in flakes ; care should be taken that the butter does not burn, 
thereby spoiling the color of the omelet. Slip under it a thin, 
broad-bladed knife, and every now and then raise it up to prevent 
burning, but never turn, as this flattens and toughens it. As soon 
as the under side is hard enough to hold together, and the eggs be- 
gin to " set," fold over, shake the skillet so as to entirely free the 
omelet, carefully slide it on a hot platter, and serve at once. It 
should be cooked in from three to five minutes. Properly made, 
omelets are not exactly rolled up, but there is a knack to be learned 
of shaping in the pan by shaking them while cooking over to one 
side of pan, the side farthest away, while the handle is uplifted ; 
loosen the edges with a knife when it is cooked nearly enough to 
shake ; this is especially the case if a large pan is used, so that the 
eggs will cook in a small space upon one side of pan instead of 
spreading all over and becoming too dry, but a small-sized omelet 
pan, six or eight inches in diameter, is best, so that the mixture vrhen 
put in pan may be at least half an inch thick. One reason of ome- 
lets and all fried eggs sticking to the frying-pan is allowing the pan 
to get too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a pan that is 
kept not too hot till wanted. The pan should be used for no other 
purpose, and should be rubbed smooth, or polished, after using. To 
bake an omelet, place in the frying-pan on top of stove until it be- 
gins to " set" in the middle, then place in a rather hot oven ; when 
slightly browned, fold if liked, or turn a hot dish on top of the pan, 
upset the latter with a quick motion, and so dish the omelet with 
the under side uppermost. It should be baked in from five to ten 



228 EGGS. 

minutes. When a large quantity of eggs is used, instead of mak- 
ing into one large omelet, divide and make several, sending each to 
the table as soon as done. Three or four eggs make a good-sized 
omelet, either fried or baked ; some think it an improvement to add 
a tablespoon cream to every two eggs. Ham, chicken, and all kinds 
of meat omelets are made by chopping the meat fine and placing 
between the folds before dishing. In making vegetal^le (asparagus, 
tomato, cauliflower, etc.) omelets, cook the vegetables as if for the 
table; place them in the center of the omelet just before folding, or 
scald a little parsley, pour off water, chop and mix with omelet just 
before cooking ; old cheese grated and added to a plain omelet 
is also a favorite dish. 



Baked Eggs. — Break eight eggs carefully into a well buttered 
dish, put in pepper and salt, bits of butter and three tablespoons 
cream — or some sprinkle chopped pickles, such as gherkins, cauli- 
flower, etc., over them ; put in moderate oven and bake about 
twenty minutes or until whites are well set ; serve very hot. Or, beat 
six eggs with one tablespoon flour and six of sweet milk ; melt a 
piece of butter in the frying-pan and when hot turn the whole in, 
and bake in very hot oven ; to be served as soon as done. A more 
elaborate and very elegant dish is the following : Pour enough 
chicken, game or veal gravy into a neat baking dish to cover the bot- 
tom well and stir with it a teaspoon mixed parsley and onion finely 
chopped. Set the dish in the oven until the gravy begins to hiss and 
bubble, when break six eggs into it so that they do not crowd one 
another. StrcAV bread-crumbs thickly over them, pepper and salt to 
taste and return to the oven three minutes longer, then pour the rest 
of the gravy, which should ])e hot, over the whole ; add more bread- 
crumbs as fine as dust and bake until eggs are " set." Send to table 
in baking dish. Or take up the eggs carefully one by one and lay 
them on rounds of toasted or fried bread on a hot flat dish ; add a 
little cream, and if liked some very finely chopped parsley and onion, 
to the gravy left in the baking dish, and turn it into a saucepan ; boil 
up once quickly and pour over the eggs. Or add to yolks of six hard- 
boiled eggs one pint grated bread-crumbs, two tablespoons butter and 
salt and pepper to taste ; fill the halved whites Avith this, put together 
in whole form again and pack closely in a baking dish. A little dress- 
ing will be left, which stir into a batter with one egg beaten light, half 
pint bread-crumbs and pint sweet milk ; pour this over the eggs and 
bake in oven until a nice brown. Baked Eggs imth Ham is another 
delicious dish. Chop fine a cup cold ham and mix with it a cup 



EGGS. 229 



bread-crumbs and a high seasoning of salt and pepper ; put into 
buttered patty-pans, set in dripping-pan and put into oven to heat ; 
as soon as they are hot take the pan out of the oven, break an egg 
into each patty-pan on the ham and bread and return to oven to just 
set the whites of the eggs, then serve the baked eggs hot in the little 
pt.uty-pans, setting each one on a tiny plate. 

Boiled Eggs. — In boiling, eggs are less likely to crack if 
dropped in water not quite to the boiling point. They will cook soft 
in three minutes, hard in five, vei'g hard (to serve with salads, or to 
slice thin — seasoned well with pepper and salt — and put between 
thin slices of bread and butter) in ten to fifteen minutes . The wire 
egg stand for holding eggs while being boiled, and afterwnrd for the 
table, is very convenient. By using this all risk 
of breaking the eggs when dropping them into 
the boiling water or fishing them out is avoided. 
The eggs are all put in and all removed at the 
same time, insuring uniformity in cooking. 
When a part are to be cooked longer than the 
rest they can be put in first, and those cooked 
less, afterwards, and all removed together. To' 
cool the shells the stand with the eggs can be 
dipped for an instant in cold water. These 
stands are made in several sizes, holding from wire Egg stand. 

four to twelve eggs. There is an objection to the ordinary way of 
boiling eggs not generally understood. The white, under three min- 
utes' rapid cooking, is toughened and becomes indigestible, and yet 
the yolk is left uncooked. To be wholesome, eggs should be cooked 
evenly to the center, and this result is best reached by putting the 
eggs into a dish having a tight cover ( a tin pail will do) and pour- 
ing boiling water over them in the proportion of two quarts to a 
dozen eggs ; cover and set away from the stove ; after cooking about 
seven minutes, remove cover, turn the eggs, replace cover, and in six 
or seven minutes they will be done, if only two or three eggs ; if 
more, in from ten to twenty minutes. The heat of the water cooks the 
eggs slowly to a jelly-like consistency and leaves the yolk harder 
than the white. The egg thus cooked is very nice and rich. Another 
method of cooking is to put the eggs on in cold water and let it grad- 
ually come to a boil, which will be in about ten minutes, when they 
are immediately taken out and served. The inside, white and yolk, 
will then be of the consistency of custard. Serve in egg stand, or in 
a dish enfolded in a warm napkin, placing an egg glass at each 
plate ; or if well done, shell and halve quickly and serve on hot plate 
with a hot French mustard poured round them, dipping a spoonful 
on each. Drop eggs a moment into cold water and they will shell 
more easily. If intended for salad leave them in the cold water for 
some time for the yolks to harden. 




230 BflKSS. 

Breaded Eggs. — Boil hard and cut in round thick slices, season 
with pepper and salt and dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine 
bread-crumbs, or powdered cracker crumbs, and fry in fat like 
doughnuts. Drain off every drop of grease and serve hot. A nice 
way of serving is to spread triangles of fried bread with anchovy 
paste, lay them in a hot platter and arrange the sliced egg on these ; 
pour over all a cup drawn butter into which a raw egg has been 
stirred. 

Broiled Eggs. — Toast pieces of bread on both sides, butter, and 
break six eggs carefully upon them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
and pass a clean red hot shovel or salamander over them until they 
are well set. Squeeze the juice of an orange over them, strew with 
a little grated nutmeg and serve as quickly as possible. Dip the 
toast into warmed cream and it is much more delicious. 

Buttered Eggs. — Break four eggs into a bowl and beat well ; put 
two tablespoons butter into another bowl, which place in boiling 
water and stir till butter melts ; pour that and the eggs into a lined 
saucepan, hold over a gentle fire and as the mixture begins to warm 
pour it two or three times into the bowl and back again, that the 
two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keep stirring the eggs 
and butter one way until they are hot, without hoiling., and serve on 
hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to boil it will curdle 
and so be entirely spoiled. 

Curried Eggs. — Slice two onions very thin and fry in butter to 
a nice brown, add a tablespoon curry powder and one pint good 
broth or stock, stew till onions are quite tender, add a cup cream 
thickened with arrowroot or rice flour, simmer a few moments, then 
add eight or ten hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, and heat them well, 
but do not boil. If a white instead of a brown dish is wished the 
onions must be stewed in butter, and the sauce made of veal broth 
mixed with a little milk and flour. Pepper and salt to taste. Serve 
hot. Or mix two teaspoons curry powder into a paste with a little 
gravy from one and one-half pints, and rub it, adding the rest of 
gravy until it is completely incorporated ; let it then simmer gently 
until it is reduced to little more than a half pint ; thicken it with a 
little flour and butter, boil six eggs hard, cut them into slices, yolk 
and white together, warm up for five minutes, and serve very hot. 
Another excellent recipe : Cut each egg into four slices ; put two 
tablespoons butter or olive oil into a frying-pan, and when well 
heated throw into it a large sliced onion and apple ; fry briskly till 
well browned ; add a cup either milk, cream, water or stock in which 
has been mixed a dessert-spoon strong curry-powder ; simmer about 
ten minutes and thicken with the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange 
the sliced eggs in a hot dish, pour the curry over them, or just stew 
them in it for a few minutes. Some epicures have the yolks only of 



EGGS. 231 

the eggs curried and the whites minced fine to form a garnish. 
Tomatoes, chopped, savory herbs, celery, green peas, sliced cucum- 
bers, button mushrooms, fresh or pickled, orange or lemon juice, 
young capsicums, pickles of any kind, shred lemon rind, shallot or 
garlic in small quantity, or indeed almost any sort of vegetable may 
be employed in the curry. Fillets of anchovies may be used as a 
decoration round the rim of the dish, but observe that only cream 
or yolk of egg should rightly be made use of for thickening a curry. 

Deviled Epqs. — Take a sufficient number of the hard-boiled 
yolks of eggs, dip them first into some beaten egg, then dip them 
into oil and roll them in cayenne pepper and salt ; make a little tray by 
twisting up the corners of half a sheet of oiled writing paper, place 
the eggs in it, put it upon a gridiron over a clear fire and shake it 
about till the eggs are quite hot. Serve with equal quantities of olive 
oil and chetney sauce made very hot. In default of chetney sauce. 
Chili vinegar may be employed. Or dip the hard-boiled yolks into 
beaten egg well seasoned with pepper and salt, then into bread- 
crumbs, and drop into hot lard until browned over. 

Forcemeat Eggs. — Boil six eggs hard, and while boiling make a 
forcemeat by mixnig a cup minced chicken, veal, ham or tongue with 
a half cUp bread-crumbs, two teaspoons mixed parsley, onion, sum- 
mer savory or sweet marjoram chopped fine, and one raw egg beaten 
light. Take. shells of eggs off carefully, divide in halves, and cut a 
piece of the white off" at each end that they may stand firmly when 
dished, and coat them thickly with the forcemeat. Set on upper 
grate of very hot oven to brown, and serve piled neatly on hot dish. 
Pour a cup of hot, rich gravy over them into which a little lemon 
juice has been squeezed, and serve. Or leave eggs whole, cover with 
forcemeat, put in a frying-basket and set into boiling fat for two 
minutes. Nice for lunch, tea or picnics. 

French Eggs. — Boil hard, remove shells, roll in beaten egg, then 
in cracker crumbs and fry in butter until brown. Pour over them a 
gravy made in pan of butter, crumbs and cream. An excellent side 
dish for dinner. 

Fricasseed Eggs. — Put a half pound stale bread and a pint milk 
or good meat broth seasoned with pepper and salt in saucepan and 
boil three minutes, mash well and mix and boil until a thin paste is 
made, stirring constantly; mix with this six or eight hard-boiled 
^eggs, cut in slices or dice, seasoned with 
pepper and salt, stir over the fire five minutes 
and serve hot. Or put the broth on the fire 
in saucepan with the seasoning, adding also 
___^ parsley and a suspicion of onion, and let 

saaoepan. comc to a boll. Rub the slices of egg with 

melted butter, then roll them in flour. Lay them gently in the gravy 





232 EGGS. 

and let this become smoking hot upon the side of the range, but do 
not let it actually boil lest the eggs should break. They should lie 
thus in the gravy for at least five minutes. Have ready upon a plat- 
ter small slices of nicely fried bread, lay the sliced eggs evenly 
upon this, pour the gravy over all and serve ho*. 

Fried Eggs. — After frying ham drop the eggs one by one in the 
hot fat and dip it over them until the white is set, or cook from three 
to five minutes, as liked. They may be served alone or on the ham 
dusted over with pepper and salt, or they may be fried in other fat 
and served with broiled ham, or on toast sprinkled with catsup or a 
sauce of any kind. Fried eggs may also be served on slices of 
Bologna sausage tossed over the fire in hot butter or salad oil. 
Place an egg on each piece of sausage, arrange among them some 
parsley leaves fried crisp, and serve as hot as possible. French cooks 
pour over fried eggs a hot mixture 
of chopped onions and bread-crumbs, 
a little water and a few drops vinegar 
seasoned with salt. The fried egg 
pan is very nice where it is desired _ 

to retain the shape of the egg. A Fried Egg Pan, 

nice way of frying eggs is to have as many as are required broken 
in cups or saucers, and heat over the fire a frying-pan two-thirds 
full of fat until it smokes. Put the eggs into the smoking hot fat 
and fry for two minutes, putting in at once only as many eggs as 
will float ; as soon as they are fried take out of fat with skimmer 
and lay on slices of broiled ham or bacon cooked while the eggs are 
being fried. Serve the dish very hot. 

Holland Eggs. — Cook seven eggs hard and cut in long slices ; 
wash and clean a large herring, cut in small pieces ; take the roe 
from a carp or other fish and fry in butter ; butter a baking dish, put 
in the boiled eggs and pour over them five tablespoons cream ; on 
each egg put a piece of herring and some of the roe, and thus fill up 
the dish with alternate layers ; mix some chopped parsley with a 
little more cream and jDour all over the eggs, and bake. 

Italian Eggs. — Beat six eggs, add two ounces grated Gruyere 

cheese, and about half tablespoon butter. Put all together on the 

fire until quite thick, take off and season to taste. A favorite dish 
in Switzerland. 

Nugget Eggs. — Break the shells of a dozen eggs, separate yolks 
from whites and keep each yolk by itself; beat whites to a froth and 
add a little salt, pepper and thick cream ; pour this into a well but- 
tered deep dish and arrange the yolks upon the top ; put the dish 
into a gentle oven and when set serve them hot. The whites of the 
eggs should have been beaten for at least a quarter of an hour. 



J 



EGGS. 233 

Onion Eggs. — Boil twelve eggs hard and slice ten, whites and 
yolks together ; fry six sliced onions in butter, drain, lay on a dish, 
and put the sliced eggs over them ; cover and keep hot while this 
sauce is made : Grate yolks of the two remaining eggs and mix with 
little cream, grated nutmeg and pepper, boil up once and pour over 
eggs and onions. Serve very hot. A nice dish for those who like 
onions. 

Pickled Eggs. — Pint strong vinegar, half pint cold water, tea- 
spoon each cinnamon, allspice and mace ; boil eggs till very hard, 
and take off the shell ; put spices, tied in a white muslin bag, in cold 
water, boil, and if water wastes away add enough so as to leave a 
half pint when done ; add vinegar, and pour over eggs, put in as 
many eggs as mixture will cover, and when they are used, the same will 
do for another lot. If liked, ginger and cloves may be used instead 
of the cinnamon and mace, and some add mustard. Or after boiling 
(hard) and removing shell, place in jar of beet pickles and the white 
will become red ; cut in two in serving. Or, for sixteen eggs, take 
one quart vinegar, one-half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pep- 
per and ginger ; boil eggs twelve minutes, dip in cold water and take 
off shell ; put vinegar with pepper and ginger into a saucepan and 
simmer ten minutes; place eggs in a jar, pour over the seasoned 
vinegar boiling hot, and when cold cover closely to exclude the air ; 
ready for use in a month. 

Plovers' Eggs. — Boil from ten to fifteen minutes, and they are 
good either hot or cold. Serve in napkin. Esteemed a great'deli- 
cacy. 

Poached Eggs. — Break the eggs into the egg poacher or drop 
one at a time in salted water, to which a small lump of butter may 
be added, or a little lemon juice, or vinegar, using a teaspoon to a 
pint water ; some say drop in when simmering, others when boiling, 
not letting it boil again after putting in the eggs ; others have water 
boiling, salt, then place it where it will stop boiling, drop in eggs, 
and let simmer gently till done. It is even said they will be more 
tender if put on in cold water and left until the water comes to a 
boil. Always take great care in keeping the yolk whole. Use an 
egg poacher if possible. Break the egg carefully into the little cups 
and place them on the stand. Dip the stand into well-salted water, 
which has been brought to simmering point. When done each cup 
in shape of a shell is taken off the stand and carefully tipped over a 
piece of buttered toast, leaving the egg in the pretty form of the cup. 
If one has not a poacher, muffin rings may be placed in the water, 
orthe cup in which the egg is broken may be turned over it, after 
it is dropped in the water ; and some cook the eggs in cups set in 




234 EGGS. 

the hot water ; others stir with a spoon and drop in the^ddy thus 
made, stirring till egg is cooked. The yolk 
should only be just so much done as to fix it- 
self firmly in the center of the white ; if the 
yolk is allowed t-o harden the egg is quite 
spoiled ; if the yolks are liked whitened or 
filmed over, cover the pan in which the eggs ^^^ poach.r. 

are poached, or dip the hot water on them with a spoon, as the fat 
is dipped ovv^r fried eggs. Take up with a perforated skimmer, when 
not cooked in egg poacher or cups. To serve them, toast squares 
of bread three-quarters of an inch thick, moisten with a little water, 
put a very little melted butter upon each slice, place on a heated 
platter, lay an egg on each square, sprinkle with pepper and salt, 
and if liked, a few drops vinegar or essence of anchovy. Or drain 
nicely and serve in individual dishes alone or over broiled ham or 
boiled spinach. Some put a bit of butter on each egg. Serve with 
Worcester sauce if desired; or pour hot cream over them, seasoned 
with butter, pepper and salt. Some poach eggs in milk, serving 
them in sauce dishes with some of the milk, and season- 
ing with pepper and salt. For Egg Vol Au Vents, fry rounds of 
bread from which an inner round has been cut, but not quite 
through, trim the poached eggs to fit the cavities thus made, and 
pour over them a cup of hot gravy or chicken broth. A very hand- 
some dish is made by trimming and serving poached eggs around 
slices of fried beets, squeezing a little lemon juice over. For Poached 
Eggs tvith Mushrooms, mince some cold chicken and stir over 
the fire with a beaten egg and pepper and salt, place this first in the 
rounds of bread, and on top of this the poached eggs, carefully 
trimmed, then pour over them some sliced mushrooms that have 
been cooked in highly seasoned veal or poultry gravy. Spanish 
Eggs are poached eggs served on boiled rice, flavored with cinnamon, 
and seasoned with a little butter and salt. 

Ringed Eggs. — Koughly chop yolks of half-dozen hard-boiled 
eggs ; cut whites into rings ; put yolks into middle of dish, with 
whites round them ; lightly sift some bread-crumbs over, sprinkle 
essence of anchovy upon the top and add a dessert-sj^oon salad oil 
and a little red pepper, place in an oven for five minutes and 
serve. 

Scalloped ^(7.(75.— Moisten bread-crumbs with milk or meat broth 
and season with salt and pepper ; place a layer of this in a well-buttered 
dish ; slice some hard-boiled eggs, and dip each slice in a thick drawn- 
butter sauce to Avhich a well-beaten egg has been added ; put a layer 
of them upon the crumbs, then a slight layer of minced ham, veal or 
chicken, then bread, etc., finishing with dry, sifted bread-crumbs ; 




EGGS. 235 

bake until Avell heated ; or, put upon the layer of bread-crumbs a 
layer of minced ham, seasoned with onion and parsley ; set in oven, 
closely covered, until smoking hot. Have four eggs stiffly beaten, 
season with pepper and salt, add two tablespoons cream or one of 
melted butter, and pour this evenly upon the layer of ham. Put 
the dish back into the oven uncovered and bake until the egg is set. 
Individtial Scallops are made of lightly minced hard-boiled 
eggs, whites and yolks together, or yolks only. Butter 
scallop shells, or little tins made to resemble them in 
^^^^ shape, strew in a portion of the egg, then sprinkle 
Scallop some seasoned grated toast over the egg, and so on al- 
ternately until shells are filled ; sprinkle a little Chili vinegar on top, 
lay a piece of butter upon each, and place them in oven until 
sufficiently done. Grated Parmesan cheese, essence of shrimps or 
anchovies, chetney sauce, catsup, or truffles, may be added to give 
them the flavor liked. 

Scrambled Eggs. — Warm sweet milk in a deep earthen pie 
plate, allowing two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a large 
number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of walnut, or omit the but- 
ter and use cream in above proportion or only half as much, and a 
little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the 
eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed 
knife gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from the bot- 
tom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at 
the bottom, move the dish back instantly, shifting it over the heat 
as needed, or even raising it, if cooking too fast, for success depends 
wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions being of second- 
ary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, 
and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. 
If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it 
well heated. The mixture should be in large flakes of mingled white 
and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Or for plain scrambled 
eggs omit the milk ; some beat eggs before scrambling, just ehough 
to mix whites and yolks, and minced ham is sometimes added. 
Scrambled upon a plate that has been heated very, very hot and 
rubbed with a bit of butter, they are relished by those who like eggs 
but little cooked. Serve scrambled eggs hot over slices of moist 
buttered toast, or fried bread spread with anchovy paste, if liked, 
and the dish is called Mumbled Eggs. Or beat up the eggs with 
pepper, salt and a little chopped thyme ; rub the sauce-pan or bak- 
ing dish with onions before putting in the eggs, cook as above and 
send to table as Savory Eggs. A great variety of dishes may be made 
bv adding to the beaten eggs (with two tablespoons milk to each egg 
if liked), any of the following : For savory dishes — chopped tongue, 
oj^sters, shrimps or prawns, preserved sardines, dried salmon, ancho- 
vies, herbs, truffles, pickles, potted meats, sausages, shred lemon-peelj 



236 



EGGS. 



onions, artichokes, shallots, asparagus tops, green peas, beets, mush- 
rooms, cheese, bacon, lobster spawn, dried beef cut fine, cold meat, 
rice, croutons, cold macaroni, or any cold vegetables ; for sweet mixed 
eggs the following may be employed : blanched almonds, angelica, 
blanched chestnuts, conserves of any kind, stoned raisins, candied 
orange, citron, or lemon peel, blackberries and other fresh fruits, etc. 

Shirred Eggs. — Place small earthen dishes, each large enough 
to hold an egg, in a dripping-pan with a little hot water; put in each 
a bit of butter and a raw egg, taking care not to break the yolk, dust 
a little salt and pepper over them, set in hot oven and just harden 
the wdiites ; serve one dish to each person, sending to table set upon 
pretty plates. If liked each egg may be sprinkled with bread-crumbs 
and browned with hot salamander before sending to table. Two 
eggs are often served in each dish, and a nice flavor is given by 
sprinkling a little finely chopped ham and parsley in the dishes be- 
fore putting in the eggs. Any small saucers will do for this purpose, 
though the little scalloped shells are much prettier. Some prefer 
to beat the eggs before baking. 

Shredded Eggs. — Boil six eggs hard and cut the whites in thin 
strips or shreds ; make a pint of white sauce, and toast six slices 
of bread ; put a layer of sauce on each, then part of the white shreds, 
and rub part of the yolks through a sieve over all ; repeat this and 
finish with a third layer of sauce. Place in the oven about three 
minutes ; garnish with parsley, and serve. It is said that Avhen hard- 
boiled eggs are wanted for this or any other purpose, boiling them 
an hour or more renders them as easily digested as soft-boiled eggs. 

StuiTed Eggs. — Boil one dozen fresn eggs until well done, poar 
off hot w^ater and cover with cold ; then peel and cut the eggs in 
halves, either lengthwise or crosswise, take out the yolks and mash 
them with a piece of butter size of an egg, one cup finely minced 
boiled ham, and a dressing of one teaspoon each black pepper and 
salt, a dessert-spoon each mustard and celery seed, tablespoon sugar, 
and three tablespoons vinegar. Mix all well together and fill the halved 
whites with the mixture, press them together and serve on a glass 
dish garnished with fresh ten- 
der lettuce, or serve in halves 
Avith the false yolks well round- 
ed up. If wanted for picnics 
wrap in tissue paper to pre- 
serve their form. Spread the 

mixture left over between thin stuffed Eggs, 

slices of buttered bread, and very ri\Q,Q Salad Sandwiches result; 
or put the dressing left over on a plate, place the halved eggs on 
it ends downward and set in the oven to brown before serving. 




EGGS. 237 

Another nice dish is Creamed Eggs, made as follows : Prepare 
eggs as above and mash the yolks well with a little butter, onion 
jnice and salt, fill the halved whites with this, rounding up, and 
place in a baking dish ; make a rich cream gravy of milk, cream and 
Dutter, seasoned with white pepper, salt and a small pinch sugar, 
and pour into the dish, leaving a narrow rim of the whites and the 
yolks of eggs showing above ; sprinkle grated cheese on the gravy, 
and put in the oven to brown. Serve in baking dish. Delicious. 

Eggs a la Maitre d^ Hotel. — Cut five hard-boiled eggs in quar- 
ters, lengthwise, and place in dish ; pour over them a hot gravy 
made of cream and milk with a little butter, a seasoning of white 
pepper and salt, a small pinch sugar, and a thickening of flour. 
Serve hot. A tablespoon chopped parsley and juice of half a lemon 
may be added to gravy if liked. Very nice. 

Egg Balls. — Pound the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs in a 
mortar and moisten with beaten yolks of three raw eggs, little salt, 
pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg. Make into round balls, 
and put through soup about two minutes before serving, or poach 
them and serve on buttered toast or with any sauce preferred. Some 
add a little flour to the paste before making into balls. 

Egg Charlotte. — Cut thin slices of stale bread divested of crust, 
dip into warmed butter, and line a small mold ; take enough hard-, 
boiled yolks of eggs for the mold ; chop and add to them half th«ir 
quantity of bread-crumbs soaked in cream, season with pepper, add 
a couple of shred shallots and place these ingredients in the mold; 
beat up a raw egg with a tablespoon cream and add ; lay upon the 
top some thin slices of bread dipped into liquid butter and put it 
into a tolerably hot oven to get nicely browned ; turn it out into a 
dish to serve. For a Suieet Charlotte, sugar, orange-flower or rose- 
water, and a few blanched almonds, some shred lemon-peel, etc., 
should be employed instead of the shallot and savory seasoning. 

Egg Fritters. — Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, remove yolks, 
and mix with them chopped cold chicken, lamb, veal or sardines, 
a little minced onion or parsley and a few soaked bread-crumbs ; 
season, and moisten with gravy or the uncooked yolk of an egg or 
cream, fill in the cavities level, put the two halves together, roll in 
beaten egg and bread-crumbs, put in wire egg-basket, and dip in 
boiling lard ; when slightly brown, serve with celery, tomato sauce, 
or make a sauce from lemon juice, sardines, parsley, and sliced 
onion, stewed in vegetable broth, and a good spoonful cream ; let 
all cook together and when well reduced pour over the dished eggs 
and serve hot ; or for six eggs make a stuffing of the yolks, two tea- 
spoons butter, one of cream, two or three drops onion juice and salt 
and pepper to taste. Fill eggs and fry as above. 



238 EGGS. 

Egg Gems. — Mix together any kind of * cold meat (chopped 
fine), with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs ; add pepper, salt, a 
bit of butter and a little milk ; fill buttered gem-pans with the mix- 
ture, then carefully break an egg on the top of each ; season with 
Eepper and salt, and sprinkle some very fine cracker crumbs on top ; 
ake eight minutes ; a little grated cneese may be added to the 
cracker, if desired. 

Egg Mayonnaise. — Beat four eggs well with a tablespoon vin- 
egar, some pepper and salt, and by degrees add oil enough to give it 
the proper consistency, so that it forms a smooth cream. Slice 
yolks of hard-boiled eggs, mince the whites, pour the mayonnaise 
sauce over the yolks, which arrange in a dish, and place the whites 
in tufts round the margin, together with branches of chervil, tarra- 
gon, watercress, endive, lettuce, etc., or sliced pickled cucumbers. 

Egg Puree. — Mash yolks of six hard-boiled eggs together with 
one ounce butter, two tablespoons gravy or milk, and seasoning to 
taste ; place in buttered dish, stick small pieces boned anchovy on 
top, and pour over it the beaten yolk of a raw egg ; bake until quite 
hot, and serve immediately. 

Egg Sandwiches. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into moderately thin 
slices, and lay them between slices of bread and butter cut as thin 
aa possible ; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. For picnic par- 
ties, or when one is travelling, these sandwiches are far preferable 
to hard-boiled eggs au naturel. 

Egg Soup. — Beat yolks of four eggs with a teaspoon butter ; 
season well to taste, and, while stirring, pour in a pint and a half 
boiling-hot stock ; strain into a saucepan, put over the fire, keep 
stirring until it is very nearly boiling, and send to table in a small 
tureen. For a maigre soup, water takes the place of the stock, 
flavoring with either essence of anchovy or shrimp. Or take a quart 
good, clear, cold soup; beat yolks of twelve eggs and whites of four, 
strain into the soup and mix well together ; put into a tureen, well 
buttered, and let it stand over a pot of boiling water, or put it into 
a gentle oven until properly set. Strew over it a few chopped 
pickled peppers (red or green), and serve quite hot. This makes a 
thick soup. 

Eggs with Cucumbers. — Pare some cucumbers and cut into 
pieces the size of dice. Put in a saucepan with a slice of ham, an 
onion stuck with cloves, and a few spoons good gravy ; simmer 
slowly, shaking occasionally until done. Take out the ham and 
onion ; stir in yolks of two eggs beaten in a cup cream ; put into a 
dish, lay half a dozen poached eggs on top, ana squeeze over some 
lemon juice. 




EGGS. 239 

Egg Terrace. — Boil new-laid eggs ten minutes, shell, cut in two. 
and take a small slice oft' the ends, so the}^ will stand. Take out 

yolks and beat in a mortar, after hav- 
ing passed them through a hair sieve, 
together with an equal quantity of but- 
ter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, two 
raw eggs, and a large tablespoon chop- 
^^^ _ _ ped parsley. Mix very thoroughly, and 

put in a dish. Fill the eggs with this mixture. Make some good 
highly flavored forcemeat (see Meats), and smooth a layer of it on 
a plate, place the filled eggs round it, put a second layer of the force- 
meat in the centre, and arrange the other eggs upon it; baste 
gently with butter, and set for a few minutes in the oven to heat 
through and color the eggs. Instead of forcemeat, the stuffing may 
be used for the layers. Serve with tomato sauce. This dish may 
be served as an entree, or for breakfast, luncheon or supper. 

Eggs with Cheese.— Qui hard-boiled eggs into slices ; lay them 
in a buttered dish that has been sprinkled over with bread-crumbs ; 
upon each piece of egg lay a slice of Gruyere cheese corresponding 
in size ; place a good bit of butter upon each ; pepper well, sift a few 
bread-crumbs over, and put in oven for about five minutes. Serve 
hot. 

Eggs with Mushrooms.— ^Wce, fry, and drain twelve button 
mushrooms and two onions ; boil six eggs hard, and slice them, 
whites and yolks separately, add a tablespoon butter and seasoning 
of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole in a half pint good gravy. 
Put in the sliced yolks last, and let them remain a minute only. 
Serve very hot, and garnish with thin rings of some of the white of 
the eggs. Or cut two mushrooms into dice and fry for one minute 
in a tablespoon butter ; beat six eggs, a little salt, pepper and a half 
cup milk or cream together and put in sauce-pan ; add the mush- 
rooms and three tablespoons butter and stir until it begins to thick- 
en ; take from fire and beat rapidly until quite thick and creamy. 
Pour over slices of hot toast, garnish Avith points of toast and serve 
immediately. 

Eggs with Peas. — Put a pint of fresh, tender green peas into a 
covered vegetable dish ; add four tablespoons each olive oil and 
water, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, cover closely and place 
the dish over boiling water until the peas are done ; then make 
indentations on their surface with a spoon and into each of these 
break an egg ; beat an egg and pour upon the top ; and when well 
set, serve it in the dish in which it Avas dressed. Or boil in salt 
water, half pint tender green peas; drain, and when cold, mix with 
the yolks of eight eggs, and whites of four, strained and seasoned. 
Heat some butter in a frying-pan and put in eggs and peas. Keep 



240 EGGS. 

stirring with a spoon till eggs are set ; turn into a dish, and serve 
with mint sauce. Any cold peas can be used. 

Eggs with Sgt^up. — Make a syrup with a little more than a 
half pint water and two tablespoons sugar, boiling with it some 
thickly-sliced lemon peel ; strain through a sieve and when cold add 
to it yolks of eight eggs and whites of two ; mix well and flavor with 
orange flower water ; pour into deep dish and either put it in oven 
or place over boiling water until firm. 

Eggs with Tomatoes. — Peel a dozen tomatoes, medium size, 
cut up in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper and salt ; when 
sufiiciently boiled, beat five or six eggs, and just before serving turn 
them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and stir one way for two 
minutes, or until they are well done. 

Eggs ivith Vinegar. — Heat some butter in a frying-pan until of 
a good dark-brown color ; break six or eight eggs into a dish ; season 
any flavor desired, and slide gently into frying-pan. When done, 
turn carefully into a dish ; put a good tablespoon strong vinegar 
into the frying-pan, bring it quickly to a boil, pour upon the eggs, 
and serve hot as possible. 

Hell's Nest. — Boil six or eight eggs hard and cut whites from 
yolks in long thin strips, or shavings, set aside to warm in very 
gentle oven, buttering them now and then while preparing the rest. 
^^.^r-^i^is^i:^^^^.^. Pound a cup minced meat or fish very fine in a 
^^^^^^^^^^ mortar, mixing in gradually the yolks of eggs, a 
^^^^ ^^ ^,.^^ teaspoon parsley and pepper and salt to taste. 
Hena Nest. Whcu all arc rcduccd to a smooth paste, mold 

with the hands into small, egg-shaped balls. Place in the center of 
a dish, arrange the shred eggs around them, in imitation of a nest, 
and send to table with small rounds of fried bread. A cup hot drawn 
butter sauce poured round the nest is an appetizing addition. 

Ox-Eyes. — Take slices, an inch thick, from good light bread or 
roll, and cut into circles with a paste-cutter three inches in diameter ; 
with a smaller cutter one and one-half inches in diameter cut out the 
middle of each circle or cake, leaving the ring intact. Fry the rings 
in butter, a bright yellow color ; butter a dish well, lay the rings in, 
and pour over them enough sour cream to moisten well, and put, 
very carefully, a raw egg into each ring. Dredge with a little salt, 
and put a very little sweet cream on top of each egg. Set in oven, 
and if pretty hot cover lightly with paper. When set, the yolks 
being soft, they are . ready to serve. Send to table garnished with 
. parsley or water-cresses. 

Temperance Egg-Nog. — Beat well the yolks of two fresh eggs, 
add two tablespoons each powdered loaf sugar, and orange flower 



OMELETS. 241 



water. Stir quickly, and add a cup boiling water. Drink as hot as 
possible. 

Bread Omelet. — Boil one cup milk or cream and pour over 
one cup bread crumbs and let stand a few minutes, pressing through 
a sieve if wished. Beat lightly the y(>lks of six eggs in a bowl, add 
milk and bread, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites 
and pour into hot pan prepared with a tablespoon butter ; finish as 
in Plain Omelette. Some add a little grated nutmeg and also cut 
in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown, and serve. Or add one 
tablespoon flour, one onion chopped fine, half pint chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt; finish as above and serve as a, French Omelette; 
or omit milk and flour and use only half cup bread crumbs and add 
three tablespoons soft butter and two of grated cold ham and a 
Savory Omelette will result. Less eggs may be used in any of the 
recipes. 

Cheese Omelet. — Boil in pint new milk until dissolved a half 
pound good rich cheese, sliced thin. Stir in four eggs beaten very 
light. Toast some bread, butter evenly, putting on a little mustard, 
keep stirring the omelet and add a little salt ; Avhen thickened, which 
will be in five minutes, if fire is good, pour the omelet over the 
dished toast and serve very hot. 

Corn Omelet. — Beat three eggs lightly, separately if wished 
extra nice, add third cup milk, three-quarters pint sliced cold boiled 
corn, three tablespoons butter, season and finish as Plain Omelet. 

Cream Omelet. — Beat together yolks of three eggs, one and a 
half tablespoons corn starch and teaspoon salt. To this add half 
cup milk and well-frothed whites. Have the omelet pan with a 
close fitting cover, hot, put in tablespoon Initter, when it bubbles 
pour in omelet, cover and place where it will not burn. Cook eight 
minutes, fold and turn on a hot dish, pour around it a cream sauce 
and serve at once. 

Meat or Fish Omelet. — Take cold meat, ham or tongue, fish, 
gfftne, or poultry of any kind ; remove all skin, sinew, etc., and either 
cut in small pieces or pound to a paste in a mortar, with seasoning 
to taste of spices and salt ; then fry in a buttered ftying-pan till it 
begins to brown, and pour the beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up 
with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set 
in the pan. In any case serve hot, with or Avithout a sauce, but 
garnished with fried parsley, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right 
proportion is one tablespoonful of chopped meat to four eggs. A 
little milk, gravy, or water may be added to the eggs wliile being 
beaten. Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. 
For Mixed Omelet equal portions of cold chicken or turkey may be 



242 OMELETS. 



used with ham or tongue, seasoning if liked with a little chopped 
onion, pepper and sweet herbs. Put in the pan with a ladle and fry 
in flat cakes. 

Milk Omelet. — To lightly beaten yolks of three eggs add three 
tablespoons milk, or more if wished, and stir in lightly the well 
beaten whites ; cook as in first recipe, or bake in oven as described in 
general directions and serve as a Baked Omelet, adding salt just be- 
fore placing on dish. 

Mushroom Omelet. — Lightly fry some pickled button mush- 
rooms in either fresh butter or oil. When fresh button mushrooms 
can be obtained, they should be cleaned and dipped into lemon-juice, 
and afterwards either lightly fried in butter, and the eggs poured 
over them ; or simply, without being fried, laid upon the eggs when 
poured into the pan ; add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and 
serve when sufficiently done. 

Olive Omelet. — Stone and halve a tablespoon Italian olives ; 
add them to the yolks of seven and the whites of five eggs, beaten 
up with the juice of an orange. Heat some olive-oil in a frying-pan, 
pour in the omelet, and directly it is well set, double it up, and serve 
it upon a napkin folded in a dish. 

Orange Omelet. — Three eggs, teaspoon each orange juice and 
grated rind of orange ; beat yolks and whites separately, then mix 
them carefully together and put in a buttered, heated frying pan. If 
liked, strew fresh sugar over it and glaze with salamander. Make 
Lemon Omelet same way. 

Oyster Omelet. — Cook fifteen oysters rare done in little sauce- 
pan separately, with a tablespoon milk, scrap of butter and thicken- 
mg to make white sauce of the liquor ; break the four eggs in a bowl, 
put in a tablespoon milk and beat with the wire egg whisk ; add a 
pinch of salt. Shake a tablespoon melted lard about in the large 
omelet fr.ying pan and before it gets very hot pour in the omelet and 
let it cook rather slowly. When nearly done in the center place the 
oysters with a spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the further 
edge to cover them in ; slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- 
nish with parsley and lemon. 

Plain Omelet. — Put the yolks of three or four eggs into a bowl 
and beat lightly ; add one tablespoon butter broken into small 
pieces ; this makes a much lighter omelet and should always be 
added ; now gently stir in the well frothed whites and a little pepper. 
Have the hot omelet pan prepared with one tablespoon butter and 



OMELETS. 243 



as soon as it bubbles, stir the omelet once or twice and pour it in ; 
lift it with a large two-pronged fork (a carving 
fork will do), carefully raising the edges with 
the fork as fast as they cook, and turn them to- 
ward the center until the omelet lies in the mid- 
dle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or °'°''''''- 
hard to suit the taste ; the inside must always be creamy. When 
the omelet is done to the degree desired, add salt, turn upon a hot 
dish without touching it with either fork or spoon, and serve at once. 
Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, without separating 
the whites and yolks, with a little salt and pepper, and put them in- 
to a frying pan containing an ounce of butter, browned ; let the 
omelet stand for a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with 
a fork, and shake the pan to prevent its burning or sticking at the 
bottom. Five minutes will fry it a delicate brown, fold over and 
serve on a very hot dish ; never cook an omelet until it is just want- 
ed ; the flavor may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars- 
ley, minced onions or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing a level 
tablespoon of former, and half the quantity of latter, to the above 
proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the lat- 
ter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into 
small pieces. Be careful not to have omelet greasy, burnt, or too 
much done, and cook over a gentle fire, that the whole of the sub- 
stance may be heated without drying up the outside. They are some- 
times served with gravy ; but this should never he poured over them^ 
but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become 
heavy and flat, instead of light and soft. In making the gravy, the 
flavor should be delicate, and arrowroot or rice flour should be used 
for thickening. For Cheese Omelet make a plain omelet as above, 
and as soon as it begins to thicken sprinkle in three tablespoons 
grated cheese. A very nice Chicken Omelet is made by adding to 
the plain omelet just before folding a cup of cooked chicken chopped 
fine and and warmed in cream sauce. 

Potato Omelet. — Boil two tablespoons potato flour in three- 
fourths pint milk for half an hour, with sugar to taste, and flavor if 
desired. Beat separately the whites and yolks of five eggs, stir 
through the milk, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. Or take 
two mealy potatoes, mash well with enough cream to pass them 
through a sieve and add a little white pepper and salt (or sugar, if 
for a sweet omelet) ; beat six new-laid eggs, put with the potatoes ; 
butter a frying-pan and heat well ; pour in the omelet, and as soon 
as it sets turn over the ends and serve hot. With a sweet omelet, a 
little cinnamon or grated lemon peel, ginger or nutmeg, may be em- 
ployed. 

Puff Omelet. — Stir into the yolks of six eggs and whites of 
three beaten very light, one tablespoon flour mixed with a cup cream 



244 OMSLETS. 



or milk, and salt and pepper to taste ; melt a tablespoon butter in 
a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven ; when it 
thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs well beaten, re- 
turn it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip off on 
large plate, and eat as soon as done. 

Sweet Omelet. — (Baked). Mix yolks of four eggs with four 
heaping teaspoons powdered sugar ; add teaspoon vanilla and care- 
fully cut into this the well-frothed Avhites ; pour it on a thick metal 
dish well buttered and bake till brown, about ten minutes. Place 
dish on a hot platter and serve at once. If liked, dust with sugar 
just before placing in oven, and the chopped rind of half a lemon 
may be added. Tins may be baked in an iron frying-pan and 
slipped carefully upon the hot platter. 

Sweet Omelet. — (Fried). Mix with the beaten yolks of seven 
eggs two teaspoons powdered loaf-sugar, the grated rind of half a 
lemon, and a little cream ; add the beaten whites, whip up all together 
and fry quickly so as not to scorch it; when set, turn in the ends, 
sift pounded loaf sugar upon it, and glaze with a red-hot salamander 
or shovel ; or use sugar with any plain omelet recipe instead of pep- 
per and salt. For a Fruit Omelet enclose in the center any kind of 
jelly, marmalade or jam — currant or grape jelly is best. To make a 
Chocolate Omelet, put over the eggs when slightly firm a tablespoon, 
scraped chocolate mixed to a paste with two eggs ; fold as soon as 
set, sprinkle powdered sugar or cinnamon over and serve. 

Vegetable Omelet. — Make a puree by mashing up ready-dressed 
vegetables together with a little milk, cream or gravy, and some 
seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are cucumbers, artichokes, 
onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms, asparagus 
tops, potatoes, truffles, or turnips. Prepare some eggs by slightly 
beaming and straining them ; pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, 
well-buttered ; spread the puree in the center, and when perfectly 
hot, fold and serve. Or, cold vegetables may be merely chopped 
small, then fried in a little butter* and some beaten and seasoned 
eggs poured over. 

Water Omelet. — Break eggs in a bowl, stir rather than beat, and 
to each three eggs add a teaspoon or so cold water, salt and pepper 
to taste, (or salt after cooking) and a little scalded and chopped 
parsley. Put tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, pour in eggs, 
cook as above in first recipe and serve. The water makes the ome- 
let light and moist. 

Wave'::'ly Omelet. — Boil one pint and a half milk and pour it 
over one tablespoon each butter and flour well mixed and cook 
three or four minutes, stirring all the time. Let cool and then add 



EGGS. 245 

four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, a little salt and pour 
in a buttered quart baking dish and bake twenty minutes. 

To Keep Eggs. — Put a two-inch layer of salt in bottom of stone 
jar, then a layer of fresh eggs, large end down, then salt, then eggs, 
and so on till jar is full, with a layer of salt at top ; cover and put 
in a cool place, but not where they will freeze. This is a simple, 
easy, and inexpensive way, and has been tested for years. Or, dip 
the eggs in melted wax, or a weak solution of gum, or in flax-seed 
oil, or rub over simply with lard, each of which renders the shell 
impervious to air, and pack away in oats or bran. For one's own 
use the latter is a good method, keeping the eggs perfectly, but it 
discolors the shells, and renders them unfit for market. Or, mix 
together three pounds quick lime, ten ounces salt, one ounce cream 
tartar and a gallon and a half boiling water and cover closely. This 
solution may be poured over the eggs the day after preparing. They 
will keep well but the shells will become very brittle. 

There has always existed a great difference of opinion as to 
which end down eggs should be placed in packing for winter use. 
A well known poultry breeder gives what seems to be a sound reason 
for packing them larger end down. He says : "The air-chamber 
is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not 
break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil. Another 
thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink 
away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, 
and they materially affect the keeping of eggs." 



246 FISH. 



FISH. 



As a food, fish ranks just below meat on the one hand and above 
vegetables on the other. It is easier of digestion but less nutritious 
than meats, if salmon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, 
and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose diges- 
tion is not strong. But, though it is not recommended that fish 
should be the only animal food of which one partakes, its value as a 
part of the diet is indicated by the larger proportion of phosphorus 
which it contains, and which renders it especially fitted for the use 
of those who perform much brain work. There can be no doubt that 
fish might with advantage enter much more largely into our family 
diet than it does at present, as it would not only afford a pleasant 
variety in fare, but would also supply certain elements of blood 
which are not obtained in suflScient quantity from either meat or 
vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more 
attention from the housekeeper. The white kinds are least nutri- 
tious ; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- 
cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those 
being most perfect which go straight from their native element into 
the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh 
when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept 
on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept 
cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. 
The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- 
ity offish. In general, fish are in the best condition just before they 
spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, 
being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of 



FISH. 247 

such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, 
regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. 
When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white 
and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufiiciently boiled, 
it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further 
hints on selecting fish see Marketing. 

Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, 
soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after 
they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, 
using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all 
scales (if hard to scrape oflf these may be loosened by plunging the 
fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will 
break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- 
ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being 
careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in 
cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be 
stuffed, do not split open but draw it at the gills. Rinse thor- 
oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- 
liness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to 
be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor 
will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by 
doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- 
tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, 
after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none 
the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; 
and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. 
To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, 
and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; 
rinse off", wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place 
in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be 
soaked in water except Avhen frozen, when they may be placed in 
ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may 
be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if 
very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the 
salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally 
settles. When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is 
purchased than is immediately wanted, the surplus should be potted, 
or pickled, or salted and hung up ; or it may be fried, that it may 
serve for stewing the next day. All cold fish left from any mode of 



248 FISH. 

cooking may be used in making salads, croquettes, etc. If a portion 
of a salmon is not used, parboil and set it aside in the liquor, boil- 
ing up when wanted. It is said that fish may be preserved by 
sprinkling with sugar, which does not harm its flavor, and that sal- 
mon thus treated has a more agreeable taste. Those who live re- 
mote from the sea and cannot get fish hard and fresh should wet it 
with a beaten egg before mealing or breading to prevent its breaking. 
All fish which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately 
after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. 

To bone and skin a fish, cut down the middle till bone is reached, 
then cut the fillet or strip out from the side, ^mmsii ^ 
avoiding the bone ; lay fillet on board, remove Bonmg Knife. 

from skin by turning the blade of knife between the flesh and skin 
and keeping it perfectly parallel with the board and thus cutting 
and separating the skin and flesh. To simply bone a fish, remove 
back bone by running a thin sharp knife along under it, and with a 
smaller knife loosen and take out the long bones one at a time. 

Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and 
unwholesome when underdone, and the mode of cooking con- 
siderably affects their properties as food. Plain boiling, baking, 
broiling and roasting appear to be the favorite methods. Nearly all 
the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled 
and the small are fried. For boiling, a fish weighing from four to 
seven pounds, should be chosen ; for baking, from four to nine 
pounds, though the best size is six or seven ; if wanted for broiling 
select those weighing about three pounds and a half and split in 
two ; for frying, a pound to a pound and a half weight is best. The 
very large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. 
The method of cooking which retains most nourishment is broiling, 
baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better 
than boiling. In baking or boiling place a fish as nearly as possible 
in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, 
shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, 
and tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie 
around the head. Or it may be formed in circle with tail in its 
mouth. Lake Superior trout and white-fish are the best for baking, 
and white-fish is also nice for broiling. The gudgeon is a cheap 
fish, rather bony, and is generally fried. The blue-fish is excellent 
boiled or baked with a stuffing of bread, butter and onions, Green 



FISH. 249 

or sea-bass are boiled with egg sauce, and garnished with parsley. 
Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping 
into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, which requires most cooking of 
all fish, is always stuffed and baked. The cod is undoubtedly the 
best fish for all purposes that comes to eastern markets, and are 
packed in ice and sent over the country, but because so plentiful and 
cheap and always to be had are not so much appreciated as other 
fish not so easily obtained. While all delicate fish lose flavor soon 
after they are caught, the cod not only retain^ but improves in 
flavor if kept a day or two, with the addition of a little salt to give 
it firmness. The "shoulder" is most highly esteemed. As food for 
invalids, white-fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal fisli and 
whiting, are the best, while flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot and 
flounder, are also good. In garnishing fish great nicety is required. 
The principal garnishes used are slices or quarters of lemon, fried 
or raw parsley, fresh fennel, pickles, scraped horse-radish, small 
pieces of toast, the liver of the fish, lobster coral, tomatoes quartered, 
sliced cucumber, sliced orange, fried oysters, fried gudgeons or 
smelts, etc. The latter when served as a garnish for a large fish 
should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting 
tail of fish in its mouth, and holding it with a wooden tooth-pick. 
After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its 
shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional gar- 
nish of parsley and lemon slices ; or the rings may be served alone 
in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a tartare 
sauce in the center. If Fried Parsley be used it must be washed, 
and picked and thrown into fresh water ; then when the lard or drip- 
ping boils throw in the parsley right from the water and instantly 
it will be green and crisp and must be taken up at once. Fish with 
very good sauce is more appreciated than almost any other 
dish. The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the 
dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving; 
but to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and gar- 
nishing. One of the most essential things in serving fish is to have 
everything hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table 
at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green peas, salt fish with 
beets and carrots, salt pork and potatoes and parsnips with either. 
If a fish is to be served whole do not cut ofl" the head and tail. It 
also presents a better appearance to stand the fish on its belly rather 



250 FISH. 

than lay it on its side. Always serve fish, if possible, with its appro- 
priate sauce, which is an almost marvelous improvement to some 
kinds, reminding ono of the old gentleman who used to remark that 
"the egg sauce was the best of the fish.'' 

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their 
sweetness ; cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape 
them free from every string, rubbing them with salt, or dipping into 
hot water to remove the slime adhering to them. They arc good 
except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. 

In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives 
or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will 
be tainted with the fishy flavor, and it is well to have special uten- 
sils for preparing and cooking fish, and used only for that purpose. 

The amateur cook should not be affrighted at the number, 
names and length of recipes given under this (or any other) head, 
but undertake any of them without fear of failure. The mode of 
preparing is in most cases really simple, and the directions so plain 
that success is sure. Instead of serving fish boile<l or fried in the 
same old way, try some of the newer and more attractive and ap- 
petizing methods under baking, frying, boiling, etc., as court an 
houillon, which is merely boiling the fish in a vegetable broth fla- 
vored with certain herbs and spices. The collared, curried and potted 
fish will be found very delicious changes, and are easily prepared. 
Some additions may be needed to the stock of spices and herbs before 
beginning, but once used they will be considered as indispensable as 
pepper and salt and be thereafter kept on hand with as little trouble, 
and at very small expense. The French owe their fame as cooks 
largely to their skill in combining ingredients, flavors and season- 
ings, and their artistic methods of serving, producing from bits of 
cold fish, meat, or vegetables and stale crusts, with the addition of 
condiments, dishes both handsome and delicious. Go thou and do 
likewise. 

In buying fish there is opportunity for the exercise of great care 
and judgment, even more than in buying meats, as freshness is 
essential to delicacy in fish. Th.t sooner it is cooked after leaving 
the water the pleasanter the flavor. For particular directions in 
selecting, consult the chapter on marketing. 



FISH. 



251 



The fish to be had in the markets of all the larger cities are 
enumerated below ; the fresh-water during Spring and Fall, and salt- 
water through the Winter also. 

FKESH-WATEB FISH. 



Black Bass, 

Croppies, 

Herring, 

Ring Perch, 

Pickerel, 

Blue Pike, 

Wall-eyed Pike, 

Brook Trout, 

Lake or Mackinaw Trout, 

Siskiwit, 

Sturgeon, 

White Fish. 



SALT-WATER FISH. 

Sea or Green Bass, 

Blue-Fish, 

Cod, 

Flounders, 

Haddock, 

Halibut, 

Salt-water Herring, 

Mackerel, 

Spanish Mackerel, 

Pompano, 

Kennebec Salmon, 

California or Oregon Salmon, 

Sheeps-head, 

Red Snappers, 

Smelts. 



Baked Fish. — After the fish has been properly cleaned and 
rinsed, wipe dry with a cloth and rub well inside with salt and pep- 
per. When large enough, stuff the fish with a bread stufiing, or a 
delicate forcemeat, and insert skewers, sew or wind with a cord to 
keep it in form, and dredge well with salt and pepper and Hour. 
The fish should be placed on a trivet, a 
perforated tin sheet, or a large tin plate, or 
if nothing better is at hand, a tin pot cover 
and this set into the baking pan. This ™''^'- 

keeps it off the bottom of the pan, thus preventing its burning, and 
the fish can be much more easily dished in perfect form. Plenty of 
butter, olive oil, or American cooking oil should be used to prevent 
its becoming dry, and the fish should be frequently basted while 
baking. Or score or cut gashes across the fish, half an inch deep 
and tv/o inches long, cut strips of pork to fit and put them in the 
gashes, dredge as above, cover the bottom of the ])an with hot 
water and place in a moderate oven, baking slowly first hour, then 
increase to a very hot oven. Baste everv fifteen minutes from the 
drippings in the pan, and after basting "dredge each time with a lit- 
tle salt, pepper, and flour. The water in the pan must be often re- 
newed, as the bottom must only be just covered each time. A good- 
sized stuffed fish should bake an hour and a half to two hours (some 
bake fifteen minutes for each pound), and when done will be nicely 
browned if above directions are followed. Take up on a hot platter, 
remove the strings, garnish and serve with a gravy made from the 
drippings in the pan, or any sauce preferred. Some like fish baked 



252 FISH. 

in the marinade given in Boiled Fish ; or put into the baking pan 
before preparing the fish two tablespoons butter, a carrot, turnip, 
potato, and onion, cut in slices, two blades mace, teaspoon white 
pepper, tablespoon celery seed, six cloves and a cup vinegar ; set in 
the oven until the fish is ready to bake when use it for basting, add- 
ing hot water as needed, serving it (strained) with the fish as a sauce, 
with the addition of a little flour to thicken. Almost any fish may 
be baked, though those most (tommonly cooked in this way are 
Lake Superior trout, blue-fish, black-fish, pike, rock-fish, bass, 
white-fish, shad and mackerel. Any of the larger kinds of fish may 
be baked in slices. Fish too small to be stufi'ed should be dipped 
in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread-crumbs l)efore baking. 
Should the oven become too hot put a piece of buttered writing pa- 
per over the fish to prevent its becoming scorched. Mackerel is 
sometimes baked entirely enveloped in greased writing paper, and is 
then served in the paper. When herrings are liked to look red 
some add a little cochineal and saltpetre to the drippings. 

Boiled Fish. — For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, 
as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breaking from 
an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong covered boiler, in 
which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each 

end, on which the fish rests while boiling, 
and with which it is lifted out when done 
and placed over a kettle to drain a mo- 
ment or two. From this tin it is easily 
slipped off to the platter on which it 
goes to the table. When no fish-kettle is 
at hand, wrap and pin in a cloth (some 
flour it), lay in a circle on a steamer tin, 
a sieve or plate, and set in a kettle. When 
done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed 
to the platter. Some simply spread a napkin on the plate under 
the fish, leaving the four corners outside the kettle, with which to 
lift it out; or a towel or napkin may be put under the plate, the 
ends brouglit together and tied over the fish, and when done it may 
be lifted from the kettle, plate and all, by putting a fork under the 
knot, and so })revent all possibility of the fish breaking from its own 
weigbt, as it might when lifted from the plate in a cloth, unless 
done very carefully. All large fish (except salmon, which is put on 
in hot water to preserve its color) should be i)ut on in cold water, 
but small ones in boiling water, for the reason that fish cooks so 
quickly that almost as soon as it touches the boiling water it is 
done, audita large one were put on in boiling water the outside 
would be done and the inside raw. Large fish must be cooked very 
gently or the outside will break before the inner part is done, thus 
creating a waste and spoiling the handsome and appetizing appear- 




FISH. 



253 



ance of the fish ; if necessary to add a little water while the fish is 
cooking, it should be poured in carefully at the side of the vessel ; 
but the less water used the better. Fish should never be allowed to 
boil hard, but the water should be brought to the boiling point as 
quickly as possible, when all scum must be taken off, and the fish 
kept "Simmering until done. Simmering is a gentle bubbling of the 
water. Should it begin to boil rapidly, draw it to back of range, or 
throw in a little cold Avater. In boiling fish, allow five to ten mm- 
utes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the 
water, and some will be done when the boiling point is reached. 
To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done the fish will separate 
easily. Remove the moment it is done, or it will become "woolly" 
and insipid. Salmon and all dark-fleshed fish require longer boil- 
ing than the white-fleshed kinds. A whole mackerel needs about a 
quarter of an hour to do it properly ; herrings, and many other 
sorts of fish, scarcelv half so long. The addition of salt and vinegar 
to water in which iSsh is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same 
time hardens the water, so that it extracts less of the nutritious 
part of the fish. Some rub vinegar or lemon juice on the outside of 
the fish before putting it in the water. When only salt is added to 
the water in which fish is boiled it is, in French parlance, a Veaiide 
sel ; when sea-water is used the fish is said to be dressed a Vllollan- 
daise; when the water is flavored with vinegar, spices and onions, the 
fish is served as au court botdllon, and simmered in a small quan- 
tity of water with a seasoning of savory herbs, it is a la honne eau. 

A good recipe for Court Bouillon, is the following: Four 
quarts water, one onion, one slice carrot, two cloves, two tablespoons 
salt, one of vinegar, one teaspoon pepper, juice of half a lemon and 
a bunch sweet herbs. Tie the onion, carrot, cloves and herbs in a 
piece of muslin and put in the Avater with the other ingredients. 
Cover and boil slowly an hour, then put in the fish and boil as 
directed. This is also called 2[arinade, and a more highly flavored 
preparation is made thus : Cut fine tAvo carrots, three onions, half 
a dozen shallots, a clove of garlic, and put them into a stewpan Avith 
a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley, a little celery, and a bunch of 
SAveet herbs ; fry the Avhole for a few minutes, then add, very gradu- 
ally, tAA^o quarts' Avater, pint vinegar, one or tAVo tablespoons salt, two 
dozen peppercorns, same of allspice, and two cloves. Simmer the 
Avhole together one and a half hours, strain the liquor, and put it by 
for use, Avhen fish is to be boiled; if carefully strained after the 
fish has been taken out it may be used several times, adding a little 
Avater each time. Fish dressed in it should simmer A-ery_ gently, or 
rather stcAA' than boil, as it affords to mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, 
roach, and any of the small river fish, the advantage of dissolA'ing, 
or so thoroughly softening their bones as to render them more agree- 
able in eating. Large fish should be cut into steaks before being 
marinaded. Instead of the A'inegar a cup each of essence of an- 



264 FISH. 

chovies, and catsup may be used ; or fennel, chives, thyme, and 
bay leaves, may be added. Or, choose a kettle that will suit the size 
of the fish, into which put the above proportions of water and 
vinegar with a piece of butter, some fried onions and carrots, pep- 
per, salt, two or three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs (first fry- 
ing all in a little butter), using less of each than given above if not 
liked so highly flavored ; simmer fifteen minutes, skim or strain, let 
it become cold, then put in the fish, first rubbing it with lemon juice 
and salt, and let it simmer until done. Serve with anchovy sauce 
and juice of lemon, or on a napkin surrounded with parsley, with a 
caper or pickle sauce, or any kind of fish sauce, in a sauce-boat. 
The fresh-water fish, or those Avhich have no decided flavor, are 
much better marinaded or boiled au court bouillon. The sea-fish, or 
such as have a pronounced flavor, can be boiled in simple salted and 
acidulated water, and another plain stock for fish is to two quarts 
cold Avater put half a cup of vinegar, tablespoon salt, a teaspoon 
each whole cloves and whole peppers, a bay leaf and half a lemon 
sliced if wished. Fish of the shape of herrings should, for boiling, 
be curled round with their tails skewered in their mouths ; small fish, 
such as smelts, etc., should be run five or six on a skewer through 
their eyes. Many prefer to serve boiled fish upon a napkin, rather 
than with a sauce poured over it ; and a plain white sauce is thought 
to be better with boiled salmon than anything less simple, serving 
cucumbers or melon in slices apart ; silver eels may have a sauce 
over them, and salt cod, boiled, is often served masked with mashed 
parsnips or potatoes. With bass, blue-fish and- carp, serve anchovy, 
caper, or tomato sauce. Sturgeon and some other fish are better 
if just basted and frothed before the fire after being boiled ; cod's 
head and shoulders are much better when thus treated. Pike, 
boiled, can be first stuffed with forcemeat, but it is best when 
baked. Fennel should be boiled with mackerel, and gooseberry 
sauce served with it ; grated loaf-sugar is generally offered with 
mackerel, and mint is also eaten with it. Mustard is served with 
boiled cod, smelts, herrings, and perch. Drawn butter sauce with 
lemon juice or eggs is also a favorite accompaniment with all boiled 
fish. 

It is quite appropriate to serve a boiled middle cut of salmon or 
any large fish at a dinner; it is the best cut, 
easier and cheaper to serve, and one never cares 
to supply more than is necessary. This cut is ^ 

better slowly boiled, also, in the acidulated salted Boiied saimop. 

water. 

Broiled Fish. — Fish weighing between half a pound and four 
pounds are nice for broiling, though about three pounds and a half 
is the best size. The small fish should be fried whole, and the 
larger ones scored, or split down the back. See that th« fish is 





FISH. 255 

properly cleaned, wipe dry with a cloth, and either rub it with vin- 
egar or dredge it with flour, then dip it into olive oil, or egg and 
bread-crumbs ; or roll it well in chopped herbs ; though many simply 
rub it over with butter. Always use a double broiler, if possible, 
and before putting the fish into it, heat 
hot, and rub over with butter to prevent 
the fish sticking. The size. or thickness 
of the fish will have to be the guide in 
broiling ; if the fish is small it will re- 
quire a clear, hot fire ; if large the fire 
must be moderate, otherwise the outside 
of the fish will be burned before the 

inside is cooked. Some brown the fish handsomely over the coals 
and then put it in the oven to finish cooking ; when the fish is 
very thick, or broiled with a stuffing, as mackerel sometimes is, this 
is a good plan. But when fish are split they are very easily broiled 
over the fire. If the fish is taken from the broiler to be put into the 
oven it should be slipped on to a tin sheet that it may slide easily 
into the platter when served, for nothing so mars a dish of fish as to 
have it come to the table broken. In broiling, the inside should be 
exposed to the fire first, and then the skin. Great care must be 
taken that the skin does not burn. To turn the fish when broiling 
on a gridiron, separate carefully with a knife any part of it that 
sticks to the iron, then, holding a platter over the fish with one 
hand, turn the gridiron over with the other, leaving the fish on the 
platter, from which it can be easily turned back to the gridiron to 
finish cooking. Mackerel will broil in from twelve to twenty min- 
utes, young cod (also called scrod) in from twenty to thirty min- 
utes, blue-fish in from twenty to thirty minutes, salmon in 
from twelve to twenty minutes, and white-fish, bass, mul- 
let, etc., in about eighteen minutes. As soon as the fish is done, 
sprinkle with pepper and salt, spread butter all over it with a knife 
and set in oven a moment that the butter may soak into the fish. 
Some put over the fish a few drops lemon juice and a little chopped 
parsley before spreading with butter, and this is especially nice for 
shad, which is much more delicious broiled than cooked in any 
other way. Soaking fish in a marinade before broiling is considered 
a great improvement, and the French soak it in olive oil made 
savory with spices. When broiling the more delicate kinds of fish 
the gridiron or broiler may be strewed with sprigs of fresh aromatic 
herbs, oiling the fish well before putting it to broil, and cooking 
very slowly. Smoked salmon should be merely heated through. 
When wanted to broil quickly, fish may be first parboiled, but the 
skin will doubtless be more or less broken and its appearance thus 
marred. Broiled fish may be either masked with a sauce — tartare, 
tomato, curry or any sharp sauce — or served upon a puree of sorrel, 
tomatoes, or beans, or upon an oil or caper sauce. When possible, 



256 FISH. 

garnish with parsley, celery or lettuce. The salmon, trout, perch, 
pickerel, shad, mackerel, black-fish, blue-fish, haddock, white and 
flat-fish, are all very excellent broiled, as are also cutlets of any 
kind of fish, but tlie Spanish mackerel, from the Gulf, and pompano 
are especially prized for cooking in this manner. The California 
salmon is the most highly esteemed of its kind for many uses, and 
the cutlets are very nice broiled. 

Collared Fish. — A side of salmon, a fine mackerel or eel, or a 
piece of sturgeon large enough for a handsome roll will make a good 
collar. Split the fish, remove the head, tail and fins and bone care- 
fully, but do not skin it (when an eel is used it must of course be 
skinned), wipe dry, rub well on both sides with spices, salt and very 
finely shred herbs, roll as tightly as possible, tie securely with broad 
tape and put a cloth round it ; place it in boiling hot vinegar and 
water — equal parts of each — seasoned with bruised bay leaves, salt 
and a bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer very slowly until the fish is 
done. A larger sized collar of sturgeon or salmon requires two 
hours' simmering to cook it well; eel or mackerel will be done in 
fifteen or twenty minutes. Take it up, reduce the liquor by boiling, 
strain, and when cold pour over the fish and set away until wanted. 
The cloth need not be removed until just before the fish is served. 
If to be served hot, the fish may be tied only with tape and baked ; 
garnish with sprigs of fresh fennel or grated horseradish. Serve 
whole or sliced. When boiled, the bones, head, etc., may be tied in 
a muslin bag and boiled in the liquor with the fish to give it a richer 
flavor. Minced oysters, anchovies or lobster, mixed with raw yolk 
of egg, may be spread inside salmon or sturgeon before rolling with 
the spices. If kept long the liquor of the fish must be drained off 
and boiled up from time to time, and when cold poured again over 
the fish. 

Crimped Fish. — The fish must be as fresh as possible ; cut into 
nice shaped slices about two inches thick, and put into a saucepan 
of salted water that has been brought to a boil, checking with a lit- 
tle cold water when the fish is put in ; take out the fish in a few 
minutes, carefully place on a cloth to drain, dredge with flour or 
wash over with yolk of egg and broil slowly over a clear fire. Serve 
with anchovy, oyster, or caper sauce in the dish. Salmon, cod, shad, 
rock-fish, bass and halibut are all excellent crimped. 

Curried Fish. — Salmon, cod, eels, flounders and flat-fish gener- 
ally, may be made into curries, and must first be carefully boned, 
then fried and a boiling gravy seasoned with curry powder poured 
over them ; when the whole boils remove from fire and add some 
bits of butter and beaten yolk of egg. A little chopped onion fried 
in butter is often used in curries, and oysters are always a nice ad- 
dition. The French method of currying fish is to first make some 



FISH. 257 

butter hot in ca pan and add the curry powder ; the fish is then put 
in (either raw or cold), and when done add gravy mixed with the 
well-beaten yolk of an egg ; when this sauce becomes smooth and 
thick serve all together with a rim of tomatoes. Eels may be cut 
into lengths and are nicer to first slowly simmer in gravy. Some 
simmer the curry powder slowly in the gravy two hours on the day 
before using, to take off the rawness of the turmeric. The curry it- 
self should be made only a short time before it is wanted for' the 
table or the flavor vv'ill be impaired, Cucumber and melon are often 
introduced in this dish, as well as curds, cream, rice, garlic, etc. 

Deviled Fish. — Take any kind of small fish, or cutlets of fish 
(raw,_ or previously cooked and grown cold), soak them half an 
hour in either soy. Chili vinegar, catsup, or any stock sauce ; drain 
and broil them, and serve with a horseradish, chutney, piquant, or 
mustard sauce. The fish may be rolled in curry powder, it preferred. 

Dried Fish. — Fish may be simply salted well and dried in the 
air, afterwards smoking them if liked, or rubbed over with pepper 
and salt and cured by hanging in a dry place indoors, which is 
generally thought the better way. Codfish is most frequently plain- 
ly salted, without being spiced or smoked. Hake is merely dried by 
exposure to the air, without having been previously salted. Small 
fish only require to remain twenty-four hours in a sufficient quantity 
of salt. Most others should be split open, and the backbone re- 
moved ; sprinkle with salt, and hang up to drain for a day and a night 
then rub with a little salt, moist sugar (and pepper or spices, if 
liked), and at the end of twenty-four hours put them to dry, and 
afterwards slowly smoke them. A great deal depends upon the 
pams bestowed upon it to cure fish at home successfullv. Beside 
those above mentioned, mackerel, haddock, herrings, salmon, pike 
and trout will be found very nice thus cured. 

Fricasseed Fish.— The fish to be fricasseed should be first 
tossed (lightly fried) in oil or dripping until about half done, then 
slowly stewed in gravy rendered -savory with spices, shred onion, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, etc., flavored with vinegar or lemon juice. 
When the fish is sufficiently dressed, thicken the sauce with yolk of 
egg, and serve all together in a dish decorated with sliced lemon or 
orange. Less flavoring is needed for a fricassee than for a stew on 
account of the fish having gained greater savoriness through being 
partially fried. Large fish should alwavs be boned and, ff neces- 
sary,_skmned, then fricasseed in small slices or rolls. Minced an- 
chovies, as well as oysters, are an admirable addition. A fricassee 
should be sent to the table as hot as possible ; when the fish is 
sufficiently dressed it should be served, instead of allowing it to 
sodden in the saucepan. Flat-fish, perch, cod-sounds, eels, salmon, 
cat-fish, and most kinds of river and pond fish are thus fricasseed. 



258 FISH. 

For a Fricassee of Cod, wash and cut two pounds of fresh codfish 
in two-inch squares, removing skin and bones ; put over the fire in 
suflicient cold water to cover it an inch, with one teaspoon salt, and 
let it slowly approach the boiling point ; then take, it from the water 
with a skimmer, lay it on a Avarm dish, cover it v/ith a towel wet in 
warm water, and j^lace it where it will keep warm Avithout drying. 
Strain the w^atcr in wich the fish was boiled and use one pint of it 
together with one tablespoon each butter and flour to make a white 
sauce, first melting together the butter and flour, and then gradually 
stirring in the Avater; season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, 
l>ut the fish into it and heat until the flakes begin to separate ; then 
remoA'e the saucepan from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk of one egg 
and a tablespoon vinegar ; if parsley is obtainable, add one tablespoon 
chopped fine ; serve as soon as done. Toast or tAvo inch slices of 
fried bread may accompany the dish. Three tablespoons of salad 
oil may be added to the sauce, a few drops at a time, Avith the 
vinegar, if desired. Halibut and bass are excellent when cooked in 
this way. 

Fried Fish. — The smaller kinds of fish, as brook trout, perch, 
sun-fish, and smelts, usually called pan-fish, and the small bass and 
pickerel, are best for frying, either by "tossing" or sauteing in a 
small quantity of fat or oil in a pan (commonly called frying), or by 
immersing in hot fat or oil like doughnuts, the latter being generally 
considered the better method. Hot lard, beef drippings, olive oil, 
or American cooking oil may all be used for frying fish, though many 
prefer the oils, chiefly because of the difiiculty of procuring pure 
lard or fat, and as the oil can be clarified and used OA^er and over 
again it is quite as economical as lard or dripping. The secret of 
frying to perfection by immersing is to have the lard or oil so deep 
that it entirely covers the fish and so hot as instantly to form a 
crust over the entire surface. If the fish is large and further cook- 
ing is necessary, the heat must be reduced. Test the fat (as directed 
in Fritters) before putting in the fish, for if it is not hot enough the 
fish Avill absorb it and thus become greasy and miAvholesome. The 
fish-kettle heretofore illustrated may be used for frying fish, or one 
may be ordered of any tinner. HaA^e an oval pan made of tin and 
an OA'al basket or plate fitting into it, made Avith a heavy wire edge 
and fine Avires running across half an inch apart ; or liaA'e it made of 
coarse wire cloth bound with tin, and at each end there must be a 
long Avire loop for a handle. A fish fried in this is very easily taken 
up ; lift the frame from the kettle, let it stand for a moment across 
the kettle that the lard may drip, loosen from the frame with a knife 
and slide it off" on the hot platter. If a fish-kettle cannot be had a 
wire basket in AAdiich the fish is placed and loAA^ered into the fat is a 
great conA^enience. Fish for frying should have the heads cut off, 
be thoroughly cleaned and Aviped perfectly dry, then rub over with 



FISH. 259 

flour, or meal, or a mixture of half each, or dip once or twice into 
beaten egg and bread-crumbs, or a batter. When browned on one 
Bide, turn, and when done drain quite dry, sprinkle with salt and 
send to table on a napkin folded in a dish nicely garnished, serving 
a sauce apart. Finely shred herbs may be sprinkled over some 
kinds of fish, as eels and mackerel, before frying, but flat-fish gen- 
erally should be done with bread-crumbs and egg and sent to table 
a clear, golden j^elloAV. Chopped onions are fried and served with 
fresh herrings. If a sufficient quantity of fat is used a good thick 
fish will not require more than ten minutes' fry.ng, and smelts and 
other such small fish are done in five minutes or less. Smelts, 
gudgeons and 03'stcrs are often fried to use as a garnish with other 
fish. The larger fish may be cut into cutlets or steaks, rolled in 
beaten egg and cracker or bread-crumbs and fried in this manner. 
Some dip fish in milk before breading them, then into the crumbs, 
then into beaten egg and again in the crumbs, while others roll them 
first in the crumbs, and finish same. Prepare them in this manner 
for sauteing or frying in a pan, and use a thick-bottomed pan, with 
lard or oil enough to keep them from scorching or sticking to the 
bottom of pan. Never use butter as it takes out the sweetness and 
gives a bad color. If the fish is large remove the backbone and 
cut crosswise into five or six pieces. Put into the pan skin side 
uppermost and fry slowly ; when brown on one side turn over care- 
fully and brown the other. When done (in about an hour) remove to 
hot platter and serve at once. The roe and backbone, when pre- 
viously removed, may be cut up and fried with the other pieces. 
Salt pork is sometimes put into the pan with the fish, or fried first, 
and yields sufficient fat for frying the fish, and the slices of pork 
may be served as a garnish for the fish. Fish is perhaps more often 
fried or sauted thus in a pan than by immersing in hot fat, but the 
latter is much the nicer method, as the fish is cooked more evenly 
and its shape is better preserved, though some think them more 
savory when saut(^d. Eels for frying should be skewered to form a 
circle. Large fish may be first slightly fried and afterwards stewed 
in a gravy or marinade. All the best known varieties of fish are 
excellent fried. Serve with tomato or any highly flavored sauce or 
slices of lemon. 

PicJded Fish. — Fish of a rich oily nature is principally used for 
pickling, as the dry-fleshed kinds do not answer so well. Smelts, 
well rubbed with salt and powdeied spice, may be packed in a jar^ 
and boiling hot vinegar poured over them. The ordinary method 
practised in pickling salmon, shad, herrings, mackerel, etc., is to 
boil them nicely in a small quantity of salted water, to which some 
add onions ; take them up, properly spice enough vinegar, add to it 
the liquor (strained) in which the fish were boiled, and some bruised 
bay leaves, which are an indispensable addition, give it a boil up, 



260 FISH. 

and when this and the fish are cold pour it over the latter. If the 
fish are intended to be kept for any length of time, vinegar and 
spices alone may be used. In Europe, fish of any kind is tossed in 
oil, and when cold, covered with strong vinegar, highly spiced ; 
sometimes this method is reversed by boiling the fish in vinegar, 
and when drained and cold adding spices and pouring olive oil upon 
it ; red and green pepper should be added to the fish, as they give 
flavor to the pickle. Mackerel may be split open and boned, or cut 
into small slices ; salmon and shad should be pickled in handsome- 
sized pieces. Scraped horseradish, oil, and pounded loaf sugar are to 
be served with pickled fish. For an Italian pickle, slice any kind of 
fish ; dip it in yolk of egg, fry it — or rather boil it — in oil ; when 
cold, rub it over with pounded spices ; put it into jars and pour over 
it cold vinegar seasoned with shallot, garlic and saffron. This pickle 
keeps good a year at least. 

Potted Fish. — Fish may be potted whole, in slices, or pounded 
to a paste. Smelts may be done Avhole. Cut off the heads, tails and 
fins of trout for potting, wipe, but not Avash, split open and bone 
them. Remove only the heads from shad, herring, and mackerel, 
and when very large cut each fish into three or four pieces. Salmon 
may be potted in any sized slices. Having prepared the fish, season 
well with salt, pepper, powdered bay leaves, and a little nutmeg, 
mace and cloves ; then pack it in pots with or without butter, and 
bake as long as the size requires ; Avhen done drain off the grease or 
gravy and when the fish is cold pound in a mortar to a paste and 
pour clarified butter over, or the butter may be poured on without 
pounding the fish ; oil or vinegar may be added to the fish before it 
IS baked, afterwards poured off' and fresh used to put over the fish 
for keeping it. After putting in the pots cover closely to exclude 
the air, or the butter will become rancid and the fish spoil. Some 
prefer to pack the fish and seasoning in layers, and for this the fol- 
loAving will be found an excellent recipe : For five pounds fish take 
three ounces salt, two each of ground black pepper and cinnamon, 
one of allspice, and a half ounce cloves ; cut fish in slices, or some 

f)ack whole, and place in the jar in Avhich it is to be cooked, first a 
ayer of fish, then the spices, salt, and bits of butter sprinkled on, 
repeating till done. Fill the jar with equal parts vinegar and water, 
cover closely with a cloth well floured, or a piece of dough, on top 
so that no steam can escape, and bake six hours. Let it remain in 
jar until cold, cut in slices, and serve for tea. Fish so potted will 
keep a long time, if always immersed in the liquor and kept closely 
covered ; and the very bones become eatable. It affords a conven- 
ient resource in an emergency, for a fcAV pieces of the fish can be 
taken from the pot, laid on a small dish, a little of the liquor poured 
over them, and served garnished with sprigs of parsley. What is 
left can be returned to the pot. A nice spice to be used in potting 



FISH. 261 

meats is composed of the following ingredients thoroughly mixed : 
One ounce each ground cloves, pulverized mace, Jamaica pepper, 
and grated lemon-rind, one-fourth ounce cayenne, one grated 
nutmeg. Besides the fish already mentioned, perch, pike and eels 
are excellent potted. Salmon should be skinned for potting and is 
first baked in slices in a pan with butter, seasoned Avith mace, cloves, 
whole peppers and bay leaves, and when done drained from the 
gravy and potted with clarified butter over the top. 

Salted Fish. — Fish intended for salting should never be washed 
or wet. The larger kinds of fish should be split open, and the heads 
and intestines of the others removed, first properly scraping them ; 
then pack in a pickle-tub, wdth finely-powdered salt between each 
layer; the tub containing them must be kept full, and the fish well 
covered on the top with salt. The proportion of salt should be one- 
sixth the weight of the fish. If intended for drying, the fish should 
remain in the salt from twenty-four hours to eight days, according 
to size. Herrings are only laid in salt and a little saltpetre for 
twelve hours, and then smoked for a day and a night. The French 
way is to split open mackerel, haddock, etc., but onlv to draw and 
divest herrings of their heads. They are then placed'in a pan, with 
a small quantity of water, and a handful or two of salt ; at the end 
of a few hours they are drained and wiped dry, and salted with a 
mixture of four parts each of salt and bay salt, and one part each of 
saltpetre and loaf-sugar in poAvder ; keep them well-covered for three 
months before using them. Large cod may be opened and laid upon 
a stone or brick floor and occasionally sprinkled with fresh salt un- 
til sufficiently cured ; then dry by exposure to a current of air. 
Shad and bass are also salted, and whenever too great a quantity of 
any kind of fresh fish is on hand it mav be preserved by salting. 
An easy way to keep fish a shoi't time is to put it in salted water or 
brine that has served* for beef or bacon, and when wanted wipe dry, 
pepper and devil it, or cook in any manner, when it will be greatly 
relished. The following is a good recipe for Salted Herring: Mix 
half peck each fine and rock salt ; take one hundred and seventy- 
five herring, put them loosely in layers with salt between, and after 
four days, drain well and repack in close layers on their backs, cover- 
ing each layer with a mixture of half peck each fine and rock salt, 
quarter pound brown sugar, three quarters ounce saltpetre. Leave 
several months till salt takes effect. These are in season in Febru- 
ary, March and April. 

^ ^ Scalloped Fish.—^o\\ a cup ovster liquor, or milk, thicken 
Witn a little flour or corn-starch, add two tablespoons butter, a little 
chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste and let cool ; put a 
handful fine bread-crumbs on bottom of buttered baking dish and 
cover with above sauce ; then put in a layer of cold boiled cod or 
other fish minced fine ; have three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, 




262 FISH. 

and put a layer of the egg next, then more sauce, and so on, leav- 
ing out bread-crumbs until dish is full, when put a thick layer of 
crumbs over the top, plentifully strewn with butter. Cover and 
bake until hot through, then remove cover and brown. Or put the 
remains of any cold fish, carefully picked from the bones, into a 
stewpan with a half pint cream, half tablespoon anchovy sauce, 
half teaspoon each made mustard and walnut catsup, and pepper 
and salt to taste. Set over fire to heat hot, stirring occasionally, 
but do not let boil ; put into a deep dish or scallop shells wiCh 
plenty of bread-crumbs, place bits of buttt?r on top and brown with 
the salamander. The anchovy sauce, walnut catsup or mustard 
may be omitted, if not liked, and milk with an egg and 
a little flour may be used instead of the cream. In 
preparing cold fish dishes a little more butter is always 
Scallop Shell. nccdcd than for fresh fish. For a nice fish scallop with 
mashed potatoes, take any cooked fish, boned, and mix with it a 
white, egg, or drawn butter sauce seasoned to taste ; put a layer 
finely mashed potato in bottom of porcelain baking dish, put in the 
fish and cover with another layer- of potatoes. Smooth the top over 
neatly and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Or form by 
heaping the fish high in the center of first layer of potatoes and 
cover this pyramid with the mashed potatoes and bake. Another 
very simple way of scalloping fish is to put thin slices of salmon, 
pike or turbot in scallop shells or small tins with bits of butter on 
top and bake until browned. Squeeze lemon juice over and serve. 
Cold fish is nice warmed over in this way. 

Steamed Fish. — After cleaning a fish, as for boiling or not, in 
either case, place tail of fish in its mouth and secure it, lay on a plate, 
pour over it a half pint vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt ; let 
stand an hour in refrigerator, pour off vinegar, and put in a steamer 
over boiling water ; steam twenty minutes, or longer if the fish is 
very largo (when done the meat easily parts from the bone) ; drain 
well, and serve on a napkin garnished with curled parsley. Serve 
drawn butter in a boat. Or when nearlv done, place in oven for a 
few minutes, baste, brown, and finish as baked fish. Fish intended 
for baking are very nice to be first steamed about an hour, and 
steaming is a much better method of cooking than boiling. Mack- 
erel merely steamed, with no sauce, eaten with vinegar, or oil and 
vinegar, is delicious. 

Stewed Fish. — Almost any kind of fish are excellent stewed, 
except those of a coarse-fleshed nature, like mackerel or smelts ; 
eels, trout, carp, and fresh-water fish generally, are capital in a stew. 
A nice way of stewing is to put the fish in beef or any other gravy 
that is rich and well-seasoned, and cook it very gently from fifteen 
minutes to an hour, according to size ; add some vinegar or cider, 
thicken the liquor with yolk of egg, cream, or butter rubbed in flour. 



FISH. 263 

and serve the fish and sauce together. The large kinds, like salmon, 
sturgeon, cod, etc., must be cut in slices ; trout and other medium 
sized fish may be stewed whole and served with a sauce over them. 
Silver eels should be divided into short lengths. Some cooks flour 
the fish itself before putting it into the gravy, but the sauce is rarely, 
by this means, so smoothly thickened as it should be. A few oys- 
ters may be advantageously added to most stews, put in with the 
egg or flour ; essence of anchovy, catsup, herbs, or mushrooms may 
also be employed to increase the flavor, for stews should never taste 
insipid, but quite relishing and savory, and for this reason spices, 
lemon, pickle, chutney, tomatoes, savory herbs, caviare, or indeed 
any kind of flavoring in good taste, is admissible. Another good 
recipe for a stew is the following : Take six pounds any kind of 
fish, large or small, three pints water, quarter pound pork, or half 
cup butter, two large onions, three tablespoons flour, salt and pepper 
to taste. Cut heads from fish and remove all bones ; put heads and 
bones on to boil in the three pints water and cook gently half an 
hour; cut the pork in slices and fry brown; slice the onions and 
fry in the pork fat ; stir the dry flour into the onion and fat and 
cook three minutes, stirring all the time. Pour over this the water 
in which the bones have been cooking, and simmer ten minutes. 
Have the fish cut in pieces about three inches square, season well 
with salt and pepper, and place in the stew-pan ; season the sauce 
with salt and pepper, and strain on the fish, cover tight, and sim- 
mer twenty minutes. A bouquet of sweet herbs simmered with the 
bones is an improvement. Dish on a large platter and garnish with 
potato balls and parsley. The potato balls are cut from the raw 
potatoes with a vegetable scoop, and boiled ten minutes in salted 
water. Put them in little heaps around the dish. For a plainer 
stew, cut a fish across in slices an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle 
with salt; boil two sliced onions until done, pour off" water, season 
with pepper, add two cups hot water and a little parsley to the 
onions, and in this simmer the fish until thoroughly done. Serve 
hot. A little lemon juice or vinegar may be added. Garnish with 
parsley and sliced lemons. 

A nice French Stew is made as follows : Clean and wipe dry 
any kind offish and cut into slices two inches in thickness ; put a 
cup of oil or butter into an earthen baking dish ; add chopped pars- 
ley, fennel, shallot, and a clove of garlic and bring to a boil ; rub 
the fish in plenty of spices pounded together with some saffi'on, and 
put it into the oil ; fry it for a few moments ; add a half pint water, 
and stew slowly till done. Beat together yolks of two eggs with 
juice of a lemon and some coarse red pepper ; pour these into the 
dish, and when the sauce is set, serve all together in a dish garnished 
with pickled peppers. 

Fish Balls. — Mix a quart mashed potatoes with a cup of bits 
of butter, two teaspoons made mustard and a half teaspoon salt ; 




264 FISH 

stir in two eggs beaten with a tablespoon or two of cream or milk, 
and add a pint finely shredded and chopped cold salt fish, stirring 
in a little at a time until it is thoroughly mixed Take a heaping 
tablespoon at a time and roll on a floured board, making with the 
hands into as perfect balls as possible until all made^^^ 
up. Have the skillet of fat hot and drop in a fewl 
balls at a time ; turn to brown nicely, take out with 
skimmer and put on sieve or colander in oven to 
drain and keep hot until all are ready to serve. Some prefer to re- 
verse the proportions given above, using twice as much fish as potato. 
Freshly baked and mashed potato is best, but cold may be used, if 
carefully re-heated, and any remains of cold fish will do. To make 
Di'opped Fish Balls, take a pint raw fish, a quart pared potatoes, 
(under medium size), two eggs, butter the size of an egg, and a lit- 
tle pepper. Pick the fish very fine, and measure lightly ; put pota- 
toes into the boiler, and fish on top, cover with boiling water, and 
boil half an hour. Drain off" water, and mash fish and potatoes to- 
gether until fine and light ; then add butter and pepper, and the 
well-beaten egg. Have a deep kettle of hot fat ; dip a tablespoon in 
it, and take up a spoonful of the mixture, being careful to get it into 
as good shape as possible. Drop into the boiling fat and cook until 
brown, which should be in two minutes. Be careful not to crowd 
the balls, better not let them touch, and be sure the fat is hot enough. 
The spoon should be dipped in the fat every time a spoonful of the 
mixture is taken. These balls are delicious. A pretty way of serv- 
ing fish balls is to line the dish with clean, white paper, and edge 
this with a frill of colored tissue paper — green or pink, — making a 
very ornamental dish. 

Fish Cake. — Take the ])oned meat of any fish, beat in a mortar 
or merely mince it fine, add a chopped onion, some chopped herbs, 
nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little catsup, or fish sauce, such as 
essence of anchovies, or shrimps, and mix it with either mashed po- 
tatoes, bread-crumbs soaked in milk, chopped hard-boiled eggs, or 
pulped tomatoes, in equal parts, put all into a buttered dish, pour 
some beaten eggs upon the top, and bake till nicely browned. Or 
put the boned fish, with the head and fins, into a stewpan with a 
pint water; add pepper and salt, an onion and bunch of nerbs, and 
stew slowly for gravy about two hours ; chop the fish fine, and mix 
it well Avith equal quantities bread-crumbs and cold potatoes, adding 
half teaspoon parsley and seasoning; make the whole into a cake 
with the Avhite of an q^^., brush it over with egg, cover with bread- 
crumbs, and fry a light brown ; strain the gravy, pour it over, and 
stew gently for fifteen minutes, stirring it carefully once or twice. 
Serve hot, garnished with slices of lemon and parsley. 

To make White Fish Cahes, pound the flesh of some cold fish, 
season it with white pepper, add a little lemon-juice, and mix all 



FISH. 265 

with enough white of egg to make it form a thick batter, fry it in 
small cakes, and serve garnished with crisp green parsley. If the 
yolks instead of the whites of eggs he used, and a little curry pow- 
der added, the result will be nice Yellow Fish Cakes; serve in a 
damask napkin with grated lemon-peel over them. 

Fish Chowder. — The best fish for chowder are haddock and 
striped bass, though cod, swordfish and all kinds of whitefish are 
excellent, and any fresh fish may be used. For a good chowder 
prepare the ingredients by first slicing a quarter pound pickled 
pork, and fry it in a pot; then cut five pounds fresh codfish or had- 
dock in slices an inch thick and free from skin and bone ; peel and 
cut two onions in thin slices, and put them to fry with the pork as 
soon as there is enough fat to keep them from burning ; peel and 
slice four more onions and keep them to use later ; peel and slice 
ten potatoes in pieces a quarter of an inch thick ; (boiled 
potatoes are sometimes used) ; have ready a pound of sea-biscuit, or 
boston crackers. As soon as the pork and onions are brown take 
them from the pot with fat in which they were fried, leaving about 
four tablespoons of the fat in the bottom of the pot ; put into the 
pot a layer of fish, next a layer of potatoes, then a layer of the fried 
and raw onions, and season at this layer with a quarter saltspoon 
ground pepper, and a level teaspoon salt. Repeat the layers of fish, 
potatoes and onions until one-half the ingredients have been used ; 
then add one-half the pork and biscuit or crackers, split, pour- 
ing half the drippings from the pork on the crackers. Put the re- 
mainder of the fish, potatoes and onions in the pot in layers, add 
pepper and salt as before, and place on the top the rest of the crack- 
ers, pork and drippings. Pour over all these ingredients cold water 
enough to reach three inches above the top layer, and place the pot 
over the fire where the chowder will boil gently for an hour, or until 
the whole is thoroughly cooked ; if it should burn it would be 
spoiled. At the end of an hour add a half pint cream, and serve in 
a tureen and soup-plates ; eat with dry sea-biscuits, or Boston crack- 
ers. Another way of preparing the fish, if large, is to remove the 
backbone and skin, cut in pieces about three inches square and roll 
them in flour; put the skin, bones and head into two quarts water 
and boil half an hour, meantime preparing and placing other in- 
gredients, with the fish, in the kettle as above ; pour over the top 
the water in which the skin and bones have been boiled and at the 
end of half an hour, or when the chowder is done, add a quart milk 
or a cup cream and serve as above. Some prepare the fish by cut- 
ting into pieces an inch thick and two inches square, and some boil 
the nork instead of frying, while others use it in raw slices, in both 
cases putting a layer of the pork in bottom of kettle and alternating 
with the layers of crackers, fish and potatoes. When the pork is 
fried some prefer to chop it fine and use it in layers, alternating 



266 FISH. 

with the other ingredients. Both crackers and potatoes may be 
used, as above, or one or the other may be omitted. Some simply 
soak crackers in water or milk, or they may be split open and but- 
tered, then "crisped" in the oven if liked, scalded with sufficient hot 
milk and put in just before taking up. Onions may be put in raw, 
if chopped. Layers of potatoes in thin slices are sometimes added, 
and a sprinkling of parsley is liked by many. Instead of dishing 
up all together, the fish may be skimmed out into the tureen and 
kept hot while the gravy is thickened with cracker dust or flour; 
boil up once, add chopped parsley, catsup and lemon-juice to taste, 
and pour over the fish. 

Fish Croquettes. — Stir together in saucepan over the fire a 
tablespoon each flour and butter, and add either water or milk, making 
a thick sauce ; let boil, season with salt and j^epper and put in 
pint cold flaked fish and scald ; remove from fire and stir into it the 
yolks of two or three eggs. Rub a deep plate Avith salad oil, 
pour the mixture in and let get thoroughly cold. Then make up 
into cork-shaped rolls. Wet the hands to prevent sticking. Roll 
in sifted bread crumbs, dip in beaten egg, then again in bread- 
crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, until a delicate 
brown. Take out Avith skimmer, and lay on brown paper an instant 
to absorb fat. A teaspoon onion chopped fine and fried in the but- 
ter before the sauce is made, imparts a nice flavor to the croquettes. 
A perfect croquette is semi-liquid in center. Melted butter is not so 
good as oil for greasing the dish, as it will not prevent sticking. 
The cracker dust should be rolled and sifted, as the finer it is the 
more easily the croquettes are prepared, and the nicer they will fry. 
Another way is to remove the bones and chop fine an}^ cold fish 
— boiled, baked or fried — and mix with it one-third as much mashed 
potato rubbed to a cream with a little melted butter ; add a little 
white sauce made of butter melted in milk, and thickened with 
corn starch and a beaten egg ; season with chopped parsley, salt, 
pepper and anchovy sauce or walnut catsup. Mix, make into balls 
and roll in beaten egg and cracker dust and fry as above. Send to 
table hot with sliced lemon round them. An improvement on the 
old fish balls. Or, put a piece of butter in a saucepan, dredge in 
some flour, and stir over the fire some minced cold fish, chopped 
mushrooms, bread-crumbs, herbs and shallot, pepper and salt ; cook 
until thick and when cold form into balls. Egg and bread-crumb 
them twice, fry a nice brown in hot fat, arrange in pyramid form on 
a plate and garnish with parsley. 

Fish Dressing. — Two cups bread or cracker crumbs, one of 
mashed potatoes, one well-beaten egg, two tablespoons butter, tea- 
spoon sage and savory, or a little thyme, and one dozen chopped 
clams or oysters ; moisten with warm rich new milk, salt and pepper 
to taste. This dressing is also good for duck or game with a finely 



FISH. 267 

chopped onion added. Or, for a plainer dressing, taKe one pint 
bread-crumbs, two tablespoons melted butter, one raw egg, pepper, 
salt and one tablespoon celery seed. 

Fish Fritters. — Put two tablespoons flour in a bowl with half 
saltspoon salt, and stir in gradually a gill tepid water and tablespoon 
salad oil (melted butter or fat will do), and the well-frothed whites 
of two eggs. The batter is the better for standing before used, and 
if made without the eggs it must stand at least four hours. If the 
fish are small skin them, wipe dry with a cloth and put the tail in 
the mouth; roll well in flour — dusting is not sufficient — dip them 
into the batter and fry in hot fat. If the fish are large, bone and 
cut into neat slices and dry, flour and fry them as small fish. To make 
them extra nice rub the fish first with powdered spices or herbs, 
then roll in flour and dip in batter. Or fritters may be made of any 
cold fish, which must be minced very fine, or, better, pounded in a 
mortar; add any seasoning liked, spices, herbs, onions, etc., and 
either stir the fish in the batter and drop by spoonfuls into the fat, 
or carefully place little heaps of it on spoonfuls of the batter and 
put into the hot fat with the fish uppermost. 

Fish Pies. — Salmon, eels, cod, mackerel, trout, herrings, floun- 
ders, salt fish, and in short almost any kind of fish are good in pies. 
Large fish must of course be used in slices, small fish must have 
heads, tails and fins removed, bone them also if possible, and flat 
fish should be skinned. Line a shallow baking ])an or a pie tin 
with a nice paste, or rich baking powder crust, leaving a good rim, 
and put the fish in, covered with a rich, highly-seasoned white sauce, 
or with bits of butter plentifully strewn over, and season with salt, 
pepper, herbs and spices to taste ; when the white sauce is not used 
add cream and fine bread-crumbs or cracker dust — and hard-boiled 
eggs, chopped, if liked — to a pie made of cold fish, and many like 
them in a pie made of any fresh fish. Alternate layers of oysters 
seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, with the bread-crumbs 
and fish, make a very nice I^ish Oyster Pie, but should be put in 
dish without the under crust. Cover with bread-crumbs, which 
must be browned, or with a good crust, pinching the edges well 
together and bake. Some prefer to cut pie paste in strips" and lay 
in cross-bars over the top with a roll of the paste round the edge. 
A pie of ordinary size will bake in a moderate oven in about an 
hour. If of cold cooked fish much less time will be required. If 
the fish is first lightly fried in butter the flavor of the pie will be 
greatly improved. Eels should be previously stewed. Salt fish 
must first be soaked, boiled, boned, minced, and mixed with plenty 
of fresh butter ; serve with mustard or horseradish sauce. 

Boiled Fish Puddings are made in much the same way, using 
a deep baking dish or bowl ; always cover with the top crust, and 
tie the dish in a cloth, then place in a kettle of hot water. The 



268 FISH. 

time required for boiling will depend upon the size of the pudding. 
Bruised bay leaves, chopped parsley, onion, pepper, bottled sauce, 
etc., are used for flavoring. Small trout and perch, with the addition 
of a few button mushrooms, are exceedingly good in puddings, and 
the fish mentioned for pies are excellent for this dish. 

Fish Rissoles. — Cut thin slices of any fish, or finely chop it ; 
sprinkle with catsup, cayenne pepper, shred lemon-peel, or any other 
savory addition preferred. Enclose portions of the fish between very 
thin paste, fasten the edges together, and fry the rissoles, like dough- 
nuts, till nicely browned ; they may be of any shape — rounds, stars, 
crescents, or triangles. Serve hot, decorated' with a bunch of crisp 
parsley. Or line patty pans with a nice paste, put in the fish 
moistened with a little cream and bake in oven, for Fish Patties. 

Fish Salad. — Rub yolks of three eggs to smooth paste with a 
little salad oil ; add one teaspoon each salt and pepper, one table- 
spoon each made mustard and sugar, and lastly six tablespoons 
vinegar. Beat the mixture until light and just before pouring over 
the fish stir in lightly the frothed white of an egg. Put fish in dish 
Avith six tablespoons vinegar and stir half the dressing in with it ; 
spread remainder over the top and lay blanched lettuce leaves around 
the edges to be eaten with it, or garnish with a row of sliced toma- 
toes. Or arrange in a dish cold fish of any kind and pour over it a 
mayonnaise made by beating gradually together raw yolks of eggs, 
lemon-juice, and Italian olive-oil; season to taste, and, if preferred, 
color it green by employing spinach-juice or bruised herbs. Propor- 
tion according to quantity of fish. Decorate the dish with lumps of 
clear fish jelly, capers, gherkins, etc. Or pour over the fish a sauce 
made as follows : Chop together chervil, tarragon, cress and mus- 
tard leaves ; add pepper and salt, and mix together with enough 
olive-oil and vinegar to make it of the proper consistency ; garnish 
the dish with slices of lemon and cucumber, placed alternately, 
sprinkled with cayenne pepper and minced anchovy. A more 
simple salad is made by melting some fresh butter in a stewpan 
and adding lemon-juice, pepper, chopped shallot and parsley, and 
olive oil ; pour over the fish, strew crushed bay salt and grated 
lemon-rind on top before sending to table, and decorate with pickles. 
For a nice Salmon Salad, cut cold boiled salmon into slices or 
pieces two inches long, and marinade by letting stand two or three 
hours in vinegar well seasoned with pepper, salt, a little salad oil 
and chopped onion and parsley. Arrange lettuce leaves in bottom 
of salad dish and cover with Italian dressing, (see Salads), placing 
the salmon, bordering with a row of hard-boiled eggs in slices, in a 
ring on this, and fill in center with mayonnaise sauce. Sprinkle 
capers over all. Pike, blue-fish, flounders, etc., may be used in 
salads in same manner. The fish may be either fried or boiled, or 



FISH. 269 

remnants of cold used. Slices may be more neatly shaped before 
cooking, if cold fish is not used. 

Fish Sandwiches. — Butter thin slices of bread on both sides, 
lay thin pieces of anchovy, tunny fish, sardine, smoked salmon, 
bloater, or other cured fish on half; sprinkle some seasoning upon the 
tops, and place the other slices of bread upon them ; lay the sand- 
wiches in a dish, and set them in a quick oven till the bread is 
nicely browned. The soft roe of a shad or herring, mashed and 
spread between bread-and-butter, and baked, is a very savory relish. 
Pressed cavaire used in the same way is particularly good. Chopped 
hard-boiled eggs may be mixed with" the fish and a little mayonnaise 
or any sauce preferred is a relished addition. Fish Canapes may 
also be classed with sandwiches and are prepared thus : Cut some 
rather thick slices of bread ; cut out a round from the center of each, 
fry them in olive-oil or butter and phxce upon them minced anchovy, 
tunny fish, cured salmon, sardine, or fresh shell-fish of any kind; 
add seasoning, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg chopped fine, to- 
gether with any chopped pickles or herbs liked. 

Fish SouMe. — Pare eight good-sized potatoes and boil thirty 
minutes, drain the water from them, and mash very fine; then mix 
thoroughly with a pint finely chopped, cooked salt fish. Add two 
tablespoons butter, salt and pepper, and three-fourths cup hot milk 
or cream ; stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs, and heap this 
in the dish in which it is to be served. Place in the oven for ten 
minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs to stiif froth, and add a quar- 
ter teaspoon salt; then add yolks. Spread this over the dish of 
fish ; return to the oven to brown, and serve. 

Fish Soups. — Fish soups may be made as rich or as thin as 
liked, but about a pound of fish to a pint of water, with the requisite 
seasoning, will make a very good soup. When stock is required to 
make anything richer, it should be compounded wholly of fish 
rather than from meat. The liquor in which a salmon has been 
boiled makes a capital foundation for a fish soup. With the excep- 
tion of the richer kinds, such as herrings, mackerel, or sprats, almost 
any fish is suitable for soup. The thickenings used for fish soups 
are potato flour, fried bread-crumbs, cream, butter rolled in flour, 
ground rice, cod roe, lobster spawn, or caviare, beaten to a paste ; 
yolk of egg, either raw or hard-boiled, and pounded smooth, together 
with an admixture of olive oil; mashed turnip, crushed macaroni, 
or Italian paste, etc. Eels for soup should be simmered until the 
flesh leaves the bones, then strain, and add thickening and season- 
ings. The following are all nice adjuncts to fish soup : Small bits 
fried bread or toast, hard-boiled eggs in quarters, forcemeat balls, 
picked shrimps, prawn, or crayfish i French roll, fried brown; slips 
of pickled anchovies, little onions, first lightly fried in butter, sliced 



270 FISH. 

cucumber, mushrooms, or quartered tomatoes. To make Brown Fish 
Sou'p^ take any kind of fish, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, and 
brown in olive-oil or butter in saucepan ; cover with hot water, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and boil slowly for about fifteen minutes. 
See that there is plenty of Avater. One pound will make a quart of 
soup. A clove 01 garlic or any flavoring liked may be added. 

Fish Straws. — With the exception of mackerel the fish should 
be skinned, and good fillets (narrow strips) taken lengthwise free 
from bone ; soak for two hours in lemon-juice seasoned with chopped 
onions, parsley and pepper ; take out, wipe dry, roll in flour, and 
fry in dripping or oil until a fine brown ; drain from fat, pile in a dish, 
and serve a tomato sauce round them. Haddock, mackerel, or any 
kind of flat fish are used for these straws. 

Fish Toast. — Bone any preserved fish, such as smoked salmon, 
herring, etc., season with cayenne pepper, made mustard (if liked) 
and salt ; Avhen it is a smooth paste add an equal quantity of fresh 
butter, incorporate both well together, and spread upon pieces of hot 
toast ; put these for a few moments into an oven, and send to table 
when well heated. 

Fish Turhans. — Bone and skin a fish, as directed in preface, 
and after cutting the entire fish into fillets or slices, roll each one up 
and fasten with a broom straw. These little rolls are called Turbans. 
Stuff or not, as wished, with highly seasoned soaked bread, and 
place in pan with butter or oil in the bottom, but no water. Cook 
in oven only long enough for the flakes to separate. Dish and serve 
on tartare sauce. Flounders or any fish may be used. 

Fish with Parmesan Cheese. — Remove all bone and skin from 
some cold fish ; trim it nicely, and place in a stewpan over the fire ; 
add sufficient Avhite sauce to moisten it. Butter a dish, arrange the 
fish and sauce upon it, and strew it rather thickly with bread- 
crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle it with melted butter, 
and place in oven to broAvn. If the flavor of Parmesan is too strong 
Gruyere cheese may be used ; or the bread-crumbs alone may be 
employed, Avhen a dish of cold fish, an gratin, is intended to be 
served. 

Fish in Jelly. — Make a savory jelly of calves' feet, (see Jellies), 
or by slowly boiling any kind of fish — flounders or any flat fish, 
whatever is cheapest — until it jellies, which may be ascertained by 
the usual test for jellies, which see. Some like the flavor of a few 
button onions, a little lemon juice, parsley, and a slight sprinkling 
of sugar cooked with the fish. Strain, and if not perfectly clear, 
clarify according to directions in soups and pour a little into a mold ; 
when properly set, arrange upc^n it the previously cooked fish (smelts, 
■perch, or other small fish should be fried or baked with the tail in 



FISH. 271 

the mouth), and carefully pour in more jelly until the mold is filled. 
When entirely cold and congealed wrap it in a hot cloth for a few 
moments and turn out on an ornamental dish. Serve for supper or 
luncheon. Slices or strij^s of cold salmon, turhot or soles, when 
used, may be cut in fancy shapes or arranged in ornamental devices 
in the jelly, and oysters, cooked just enough to plump them, hard- 
boiled eggs in rings, or forcemeat balls colored a bright green with 
spinach juice, are nice additions. A very handsome and appetizing 
dish. 

Fish with Olives. — Peel and cut a nice tender cucumber into 
slices an inch thick ; fry them in olive oil, and fry in another pan 
some fillets of fish bound and rubbed in flour and white pepper ; 
when done, arrange the slices of cucumber in a dish and place the 
fillets upon them. Throw some stoned olives into the oil and let 
remain just long enough to get hot. Put them round the dish and 
serve at once. 

Fish with Rice. — Carefully bone enough cold fish to make a 
moderate-sized dish, add cayenne pepper and salt, and lightly fry in 
a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter ; when quite hot add a teacup 
boiled rice and chopped yolks of four hard-boiled eggs ; stir well to- 
gether until perfectly hot; shape it upon a dish, and serve with 
pickles. 

Boiled Bass. — Clean a handsome piece of fish, open it at the 
belly and remove the bone ; lard the flesh Avith slips of anchovy, 
truffles, tunny fish, and gherkins ; stuff it with the flesh of other 
fish, such as lobster, oysters, crayfish, prawns, etc ; season and 
fasten it together so that it ma}^ retain its original form as nearly as 
possible ; wrap in a cloth and boil in richly-flavored liquor till done ; 
when cold remove the covering, lay in a dish, glaze and decorate 
round with crusts of jelly and little ornamental heaps of butter. 
Salmon, sturgeon and pike can be cooked as above. 

Potted Bloater. — Cut off heads and clean as many fish as 
wanted, then })ut in oven till cooked through ; take from oven, skin 
and carefully separate meat from bones; put the meat in ajar with 
half its weight of butter and set in cool oven to cook sloioJy half an 
hour ; then put the fish into a mortar or bowl, pour the butter over 
it, taking care not to let the gravy pass too, unless fish is to be eaten 
soon, as it will not keep so well ; pound butter and fish together 
with a pestle or potato masher, to a paste, add a little cayenne, and 
press into small pots, pouring melted butter or mutton suet a third 
of an inch thick over top of each. Least expensive and most 
appetizing of all potted meats, and makes excellent sandwiches. 

Boiled Cod's Head and Shoulders. — Cleanse the fish thorough- 
ly, and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside of the fish, 



272 



FISH. 



one or two hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the 
flavor. Lay the head and shoulders in fish-kettle or deep pan with 
sufficient cold water to cover. Be very particular not to pour the 
water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just 
simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring 

it in at the side 
of the kettle, 
and not on the 
fish. Add salt 




Cod's Head aad Shoulders. 



m proportion 
of three table- 
spoons to each 
gallon of wa- 
ter, and bring 
gradually to a 

boil ; a little horse-radish and vinegar or lemon juice added now im- 
prove the fish. Skim very carefully, draw to the back of range, and 
let it gently simmer till done, about half an hour. Take out and 
drain ; dish on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon, and horse- 
radish and serve with either drawn butter or eggs. Prepare Boiled 
White Fish in same manner. For a Cod Pie, carefully remove all 
skin from any fish that is left and pick from the bones, place in a pie 
dish or pan, pour over melted butter to moisten, and a dozen or so 
oysters (or o_yster sauce if left) and cover with mashed potatoes. 
Bake half an hour and serve nicely browned. Any cold fish may be 
used and is delicious and very economical. A more elaborate Cod 
Pie is made by laying two fresh slices large cod in salt for four 
hours, Avash, place in a dish, season, add two tablespoons butter, 
half pint any good stock, cover with pie or baking powder crust as 
rich as liked with center cut out by a cup and bake one hour. Make 
a sauce of quarter pint cream or milk, one tablespoon stock, a little 
thickening of flour and butter, finely-chopped lemon peel and a 
dozen or so oysters, let boil once and pour it into the pie at opening 
in center. The piece cut out can be placed upon the pie and carefully 
lifted up to add the sauce. Bake a quarter of an hour and then 
serve in dish in which it is baked. Cooked cod may be used and 
any fish may be substituted for the cod. For a Codfish Poll, chop 
fine cold cooked fish, pour over it drawn-butter or egg sauce, season 
to taste. Wai-m thoroughly, stirring to prevent burning; make up 
in rolls or any other form and brown in oven ; or after prepared 
with sauce put in the frying-pan with a little oil, lard or drippings, 
and heat through and then shape into a roll and brown, turning it 
over and over to brown evenly. 

Cold cod is an admirable material for making pretty little din- 
ner and breakfast dishes. An excellent curry may be made by 
breaking up cold fish into flakes as neatly as possible. These should 
be fried in butter, with onions cut in rings and a suspicion of shal- 



FISH. 273 

lot, to a fine light l)rown color ; then take some butter rolled in flour, 
put into a stewpan, and let it take a light color ; add some good 
white stock or gravy, and a large spoonful curry j30wder made into 
paste with cream ; throw in flaked fish (not the onions), simmer for 
about ten minutes, and serve with rice in separate dish. Cold salt 
cod may be used. 

Cod Sounds. — These are the air or swimming bladders of the 
fish and should be well soaked in salted water, and thoroughly washed 
before dressing. They are considered a great delicacy, and may 
either be broiled, fried, or boiled ; if they are boiled, mix a little 
milk with the water. Cod Sounds vnth Forcemeat. — Make a force- 
meat of twelve chopped oysters, three chopped anchovies, quarter 
pound bread-crumbs, tablespoon butter, two eggs ; seasoning of salt 
pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste. Mix the ingredients well to- 
gether. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 
half an hour; take out and let cool. Cover each with a layer of 
forcemeat, roll up in nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with 
butter, dredge with flour, and broil gently over the fire or bake in 
oven. 

Codfish a la Mode. — One cup codfish (if salt codfish is used 
freshen overnight), picked up fine, two cups mashed potatoes, one 
pint cream or milk, two eggs well-beaten, half cup butter, salt and 
pepper ; mix well, bake in baking-dish from twenty to twent3^-five 
minutes. For Scalloped Codfish, use bread-crumbs instead of pota- 
toes, moistening them with the cream or milk, putting in the dish 
in layers, alternating with the fish, and finishing with the crumbs; 
sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake half an hour, or the 
mashed potatoes may be used also. 

Codfish and Eggs. — Take a pint each freshened and flaked cod- 
fish (or any cooked salt-fish) and milk or cream, two tablespoons 
flour, one of butter and six eggs. Mix the flour smooth in a little 
of. the milk, putting the remainder on to boil ; stir in the flour, and 
add the fish, season with pepper (it should be salt enough) and 
cook ten minutes. Poach the eggs carefully. Turn the cooked fish 
over six slices or rounds of nicely toasted bread on a platter, and 
place the eggs on the fish. Garnish with points of toast and sprigs 
of parsley. A delicious dish. 

CodfisJi Fritters. — One pint finely picked salt codfish, two of 
whole raw peeled potatoes. Place together in cold water and boil 
till potatoes are done. Remove from fire and drain ; mash well, add 
tablespoon butter, two well-beaten eggs and a little white pepper. 
Mix with a Avooden spoon and drop in hot cooking-oil or lard in 
spoonfuls as fritters 



274 FISH. 

CocM'Sh Mountain. — Soak some codfish, and simply boil in 
water ; take up, bone and flake nicely, and put into a stewpan over 
the fire ; keep stirring while gradually dropping upon it some good 
Italian olive-oil ; when the fish becomes a sort of cream, add finely- 
chopped parsley, a bruised garlic, and a grated lexnon-neel ; serve 
heaped up in a dish. 

Cream CocMsh. — Soak pieces of codfish several hours in cold 
water, or wash thoroughly, heat in oven and pick fine, and place in 
skillet with cold water; boil a few minutes, pour off water and add 
fresh, boil again (if not very salt the second boiling is not necessary), 
and drain off as before ; then add a pint and a half sweet milk to 
each pint codfish — or part cream and jjart milk, half and half is very 
nice — a piece of butter size of an egg when cream is not used and a 
thickening made of a tablespoon flour (or half tablespoon corn 
starch) mixed with two tablespoons cold milk until smooth like 
cream ; season with Avhite pepper, stir well just before taking from 
fire, drop in an egg if "liked, stir very briskly, and serve. This is 
very rich and thick, and is a very nice dish of fish. If wanted as 
a gravy, or when much gravy is liked, use double the quantity of 
milk, butter and flour. Salt codfish is also excellent broiled. Soak 
overnight, and broil as other fish. 

Mashed GodHsJi. — Stir four tablespoons butter with a pint hot 
mashed potatoes and add a half pint finely shredded codfish, a gill 
milk or cream and teaspoon pepper. Butter a quart tin mold and 
pack it evenly and smoothly with the above mixture ; let it stand in 
the oven ten minutes ; turn it out on the perforated plate of the fish- 
kettle, cover with beaten yolk of egg and bread-crumbs ; have ready 
enough hot fat in the fish-kettle to immerse it, sink the plate into 
the fat and let stand until the whole is nicely browned. Be sure 
the fat is hot enough or the dish will be spoiled. Slide carefully 
upon a platter and garnish with curled parsley. If a fish-kettle is 
not at hand mask by browning in the oven, covered with egg only. 
Egg sauce is excellent with this. 

Fried Eels. — Skin, take off" head and tail, cut into small pieces, 
throw into boiling water for five minutes, drain, roll in flour or corn 
meal peppered and salted, and fry in very hot lard. A favorite way 
of cooking them is to skin and boil in salted water with a few pepper- 
corns. Let stand in water until cold and serve cold. 

Fried Flounders. — Bone the flounders and divide into four 
pieces. Have a deep skillet of hot fat ready, wipe each piece of fish 
di'V, dip in milk, then in flour, drop them into the fat and when 
beautifully brown, which will be in about ten minutes, take up in a 
colander, and then lay them on a towel to absorb any fat, place on 
a hot dish, and garnish Avith slices of lemon and parsley or celery 
tops. Pronounced equal to the Delmonico Mlet de sole. 



FISH. 



275 



Boiled Haddock.— Wash a three-pound haddock as soon as it 
comes from market, and someplace in a Large pancontaimng plenty 
of cold water and a handful of salt for a short time. To cook, place 
in fish-kettle with cold water to cover, a gill of vinegar, tablespoon 
salt, a small root of parsley, six cloves and one sprig each of thyme 
and majoram. When the water boils fish will usually be done ; test 
bv pulling out a fin, if it comes out easily and flesh of fish looks 
clear white it is done. Take up carefully without breaking, remove 
the skin by scraping gently so as to avoid tearing the fish. Serve 
with parsley or anchovv sauce. For small haddocks, fasten tails in 
their mouths and pin with a wooden toothpick and place in boiling 
water. Generally they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, 
or exceed ten or twelve inches in length and such are esteemed very 
delicate eating. Haddocks are at their best in November, December, 
June and July. Any fish may be cooked as above. 

Creamed Haddoclv.—?\\i a fish weighing five or six pounds on 
in cold water enough to cover, and which contains one tablespoon 
of salt. Cook gently twenty minutes ; then lift out of the water, but 
let it remain on the tray. Now carefully remove all the skin and 
the head ; then turn the fish over into the dish in which it is to be 
served (it should be stone china), and scrape oft" the skin from the 
other side. Pick out all the small bones ; they are down the whole 
length of the back, and a few in the lower part of the fish, near the 
tail, in rows like pins in a paper, and it will take but a few 
minutes to remove them. Then take out the back-bone, starting at 
the head and working gently down toward the tail. Great care 
must be taken, that the fish may keep its shape. Cover with pre- 
pared cream as follows : Put one quart milk, two sprigs parsley and 
small sliced onion on to boil, reserving half a cup milk to mix with 
two tablespoons flour. When it boils, stir in the flour paste. Cook 
eight minutes. Season highly with salt and pepper, add tablespoon 
butter, strain on the fish, and bake about ten minutes, just to brown 
it a little. Garnish with parsley or little puflf-paste cakes ; or, cover 
it with the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff" froth, and then 
slightly brown. A cusk or cod can be cooked in same Way. 

Baked JIalibtct.—\Jse neck of halibut, the thin part just below 
the head, under the gills. Wash in cold water, and if not ready to 
use let it stand in cold water. Put butter, drippings, or pieces of 
salt pork in baking })an, lay in the fish and bake three-quarters of 
an hour, basting with the drippings, being careful not to let burn ; 
place on hot platter without breaking the fish and serve with tomato 
sauce around it. To make the sauce for three pounds fish, take a 
pint canned or fresh tomatoes, cook and season with salt, pepper, 
and if wished, a clove of garlic, chopped very fine. 

Creeled Halihtit.—Wash a thick square piece of fresh halibut, 
place in baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and strew over it 



276 FISH. 

a finely chopped clove of garlic, about the size of a bean, and cover 
with a cup of fresh or canned tomatoes. Bake until flakes separate ; 
dish without breaking. 

Balied Herrings. — Scale and clean two pounds herrings care- 
fully without washing, unless it be absolutely necessary. Split 
down the back and remove backbones, sprinkle inside with a little 
pepper, salt, and pounded mace mixed together. If there are any 
roes enclose them in the fish and place latter in layers in a baking 
dish with six each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and two bay 
leaves. Cover with an equal mixture of vinegar and water or all 
vinegar, salt plentifully and tie a sheet of oiled paper over the dish, 
and bake one hour ; serve cold. Balked Salt Herring are prepared 
by soaking the herring overnight, roll in flour and butter, and place 
in a dripping pan with a very little water over them ; season with 
pepper, and after putting in oven baste frequently. 

Herring Puddiyig. — First thoroughly wash and then soak two 
salt herrings in water overnight, or in sweet milk four or five hours, 
as the milk extracts the salt in half the time and even less. Pick in 
pieces and place in a quart baking dish a layer of fish with little 
bits of butter and then a layer of cold boiled potatoes sliced, and 
one of cooked rice, then fish, etc., with potatoes for last layer ; cover 
with a custard made of one pint milk, two eggs, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, and bake in oven half an hour ; rice may be omitted. 
Any salt or fresh fish (not soaking) may be used, and any cold 
cooked fish. 

Baked Mackerel. — Clean four medium-sized fish, the largest 
seldom weigh over two pounds, take out the roes and fill with a 
forcemeat made by mixing Avell together tablespoon each fresh but- 
ter, finely shredded suet and fat bacon, diced, small teaspoon minced 
savory herbs and parsley, a little finely minced onion, if liked, four 
tablespoons bread-crumbs, one egg, salt, nutmeg and cayenne to 
taste. Sew up slit, flour, and put in a baking dish, heads and tails 
alternately, put on bits of butter, pepper and salt, then the roes. 
Bake hall" an hour and serve with plain drawn butter or a maitre 
d'^hotel sauce. 

Boiled Mackerel. — Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, 
and lay it in the kettle with suflicient water to cover, with quarter 
pound salt to each gallon water ; bring it gradually to boil, skim 
well, and simmer gently till done, 
when the tail splits and the eye 
starts out, generally about ten min- 
utes ; dish on a hot napkin, heads 
and tails alternately, and garnish ^"""^'^ Mackerel. 

with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual 
accompaniments to boiled mackerel ; but caper or anchovy sauce is 




FISH. 277 

sometimes served with it. When variety is desired, fillet the mack- 
erel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter ; send some of this 
besides, in a tureen. Or for Pickled Mackerel., boil as above, place 
in dish, take half the liquor in which they were boiled, add as much 
vinegar, a few pepper-corns and a bay leaf or two, boil ten minutes 
and when cold, pour over the fisli. 

Broiled Mackerel. — Mackerel should never be washed when 
intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry after 
taking out the gills and inside. Open the back, and put in a little 
pepper, salt, and oil ; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both 
sicfes, and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, which will 
be in about ten minutes for a small mackerel, the flesh can be de- 
tached from the bone. Chop a little parsley, mix with butter, pep- 
Eer and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the 
ack. Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a maitre d'^hotel 
sauce in a tureen. 

Salt Mackerel. — Take mackerel from the salt, wash carefully, 
and lay them inside downward in a pan of cold water for twelve to 
fifteen'hours ; change the water frequently, and if wanted sooner the 
fish may be soaked in sweet or sour milk — it will freshen in half the 
time. Scrape clean, and for Boiled Mackerel wrap in a cloth and 
simmer fifteen minutes ; it will be almost done when the water 
reaches boiling point ; remove, lay on it two hard-boiled eggs sliced, 
pour drawn butter over and trim with parsley leaves. Boiling salt- 
fish hardens it. For Baked Mackerel, lay in shallow pan, the inside 
of fish down ; cover with water, and set it over a gentle fire or in an 
oven for twelve or fiften minutes ; then pour off" Avater, turn fish, put 
bits of butter in pan, and over the fish, sprinkle with pepper and fry 
for five minutes, then serve. 

Baked Mullet. — Cut one carrot and two onions into thin slices ; 
add thyme, parsley and marjoram, with pepper and salt to taste, 
and three tablespoons salad oil ; mix well together, cover each mul- 
let with the mixture, and roll it up in a piece of white paper, previ- 
ously oiled ; bake in a moderate oven half an hour, then carefully 
open the paper, place the fish neatly on a dish, ready to serve, and 
keep it warm. Melt a small piece butter, add a large pinch flour, 
a half cup good stock, and the vegetables, etc., the fish were cooked 
in. Let the sauce boil five minutes, add salt if wanted ; strain, 
skim, pour over the fish, and serve. 

Fried Pan-Fish. — Take perch, sun-fish, or any small fish ; 
place in pan with heads together, and fill spaces with smaller fish ; 
when ready to turn, put a plate over, drain off" fat, invert pan, and 
the fish will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back in 
the pan and when hot^ slip back the fish, and when the other side is 



278 FISH. 

brown, drain, turn on plate as before, and slide them on the platter 
to go to the table. This improves the appearance, if not the flavor. 
The heads should be left on, and the shape preserved as fully as 
possible. 

Baked jPic Jeer el. —Clean the fish thoroughly, wipe carefully, 
and lay in a dripping-pan Avith hot water enough to prevent scorch- 
ing ; a perforated tin sheet or rack fitting closely in the pan, or hard- 
wood sticks laid crosswise, or several muffin-rings may be used to 
keep the fish from the bottom of the pan, and the fish may be made 
to form a circle by tying head and tail together ; cover with an in- 
verted pan and bake slowly, basting occasionally with butter and 
water. It will not need so frequent basting if covered. Remove 
pan fifteen or twenty minutes before done to brown nicely. When 
done have ready a cup sweet cream into which a few spoons hot 
water have been poured, stir in two tablespoons melted butter and 
a little chopped parsley, and heat in a vessel of boiling water ; add 
the gravy from the fish and boil up once. Place the fish in a hot 
dish, and pour over the sauce. Bake Salmon and Trout same way. 

Pike a la Oodard. — The inside of a fine pike must be removed 
through the gills, and the fish put into scalding Avater in order that 
the skin may be stripped off easily ; also tie the head with fine 
twine. Wrap the fish in buttered paper, put it into a fish-kettle and 
cover with cold water. When pike is done, which can be told by 
touching it gently, drain it and garnish with cray-fish, Avhich are 
simply the homely craw-fish, and quenelles of forcemeat made as 




Pike a la Godard. 



folloAVS : Take one teacup bread-crumbs, one teaspoon minced 
savory herbs, eight oysters, two anchovies (or omit the latter), two 
ounces suet ; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste ; six table- 
spoons of cream or milk, and two eggs. Beard and mince the oys- 
ters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and Avhen properly pre- 
pared, pound all together in a mortar for some time ; for the more 
quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten 
wdth the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding a 
seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended 
together, mold into balls, roll in flour, and poach in boiling water 



FISH. 279 

to which a little salt has been added. If the quenelles are not firm 
enough, add the yolk of another egg, but omit the white, which only 
makes them hollow and puffy inside, and Avhites may be omitted 
altogether. In the preparation of the quenelles the ingredients are 
to be well 2)0unded and seasoned, for this is the secret of the French 
quenelles ; when they are Avished very small, extreme delicacy will 
be necessary in their preparation. • Their flavor may be varied by 
using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant or grouse, Avith the 
addition of mushroom, parsley, etc. Prepare the crayfish by throw- 
ing into boiling water, to which has been added a good seasoning of 
salt and a little vinegar. When done, which will be in fifteen minutes, 
take out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange around the fish 
as illustrated, alternately with the ciuenelles. This fish is also nice 
for garnishing boiled turkey, boiled fowl, calf's head, and all kinds 
of boiled fish. It should be oftener employed for the delicious soup 
it makes than it at present is, and housewives should excite a de- 
mand for it among the fishmongers and a supply would soon be 
forthcoming. They are also nice as Potted Crayfish. Boil one hun- 
dred crayfish in salt and water; pick out all the meat and pound it 
in a mortar to jDaste. Whilst pounding, add two tablespoons butter 
gradually, and mix in pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste. Put 
it in small pots, and pour over it clarified butter, carefully exclud- 
ing the air. 

Fried Red Snapper. — Cut a red snapper in pieces and fry 
brown. In a separate vessel, cut up and fry one onion and two 
cloves of garlic ; when brown, add two tablespoons flour, one pint 
prepared tomatoes, a little pepper, salt to taste, one tablespoon 
Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen whole cloves. Let this sim- 
mer half an hour, and stir in a tablespoon vinegar. Pour over the 
fried fish, and serve immediately. Or fry by immersing in hot fat 
as directed in Fried Fish. Red Snapper is also very nice boiled. 

Fried Roe. — Fish-spawn, especially the shad, is a delicacy great- 
ly prized by epicures. Wash and wipe, fry twenty minutes in hot 
fat in a frying pan on both sides ; season, dish on a hot platter and 
place around it a row or double row of plain fried oysters. Put a bunch 
of parsley in the center, and half a lemon with the peel cut in saw 
teeth. Or first boil the roes (cutting them in two if large), in water 
seasoned with vinegar, salt and pep])er, ten minutes, take out and 
plunge them in slightly salted cold water, wipe dry again and let 
them lay a minute or two ; then roll in beaten egg and bread-crumbs 
and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot lard or drippings. Serve 
with a sauce made of a cup drawn butter, a teaspoon anchovy sauce, 
piece of half a lemon, a little minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne 
pepper. Send around in a gi'avy boat. Another nice way of frying 
and serving roe is to first Avash any kind of fish-roe in salted cold 
water, and dry it on a towel ; then put into a frying-pan containing 



280 FISH. 

suflicient hot fat to prevent burning ; cover the pan ana Drown the 
roe, first on one side and then on the other ; when it is done lay it 
on brown paper to free it from fat, and then on a hot dish. Mean- 
time, peel half a dozen potatoes, cut in small balls with a vegetable 
scoop, or in pieces an inch square ; throw them into salted boiling 
water, and boil until a trussing needle or sharp fork will easily 
pierce them, but do not boil them soft ; as soon as they are tender 
drain them and lay them between tlie folds of a towel until the fish- 
roe is brown. Then put the potatoes into tlie hot fat where the roe 
was fried, set the pan over the fire and shake the potatoes about in 
it until they are brown. Serve them under the fish-roe after dusting 
them over with pepper and salt. For Roe Croquettes take four 
medium-sized shad i-oes, two l)oiled potatoes, ounce each butter and 
flour, gill cold water, tablespoon chopped parsley, teaspoon each 
lemon juice and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two hard-boiled eggs, 
one raw egg and four tablespoons bread-crumbs. Boil the roes 
twenty minutes, take out, drain and placing in a bowl separate with 
a wooden spoon ; add the pepper, salt and chopped parsley ; rub 
through a sieve over the bowl the hard-boiled yolks and then the 
potatoes ; add the two hard-boiled whites, finely chopped, and the 
lemon juice. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and 
gill cold water by degrees, and when boiling pour it over the materials 
in the bowl and stir all thoroughly together. Make into small shapes 
resembling the shad-roe, beat the raw egg and dip these into it, roll 
in the bread-crumbs, and fry as doughnuts in hot fat, draining on a 
piece of kitchen paper over a sieve in oven to keep hot, and serve in 
a folded napkin. Or for the four shad roes take one pint cream, 
four tablespoons each corn-starch, and butter, one teaspoon salt, 
juice of two lemons, slight grating of nutmeg and a speck cayenne. 
Boil the roe as above, then drain and mash. Put the cream on to 
boil, mix the butter and corn-starch together, and stir into the boil- 
ing cream ; add the seasoning and roe : boil up once, and set away 
to cool. Make into balls, or shape and fry as directed above. 

Bailed Salmon. — Procure a middle cut of salmon ; butter both 
sides of a large sheet of writing paper and roll the fish in it, pinning 
the ends securely together. Put it in the baking pan and pour a 
half cup butter and water over it. Cover with another pan and bake 
in a moderate oven one hour, lifting the cover occasionally to baste 
and see that the paper does not scorch. Make a sauce by beating a 
cup of cream over boiling Avater, thicken Avith a heaping teaspoon 
corn-starch, add a tablespoon butter, and pepper, salt and finely 
chopped parsley to taste. When the salmon is done, take off the 
paper, place on a hot platter, pour half the sauce slowly over it and 
send the rest to table in a boat. If cream cannot be had for the 
sauce use milk and a well beaten egg. 

Salmon Croquettes. — This dainty dish may be made of the 
fresh fish, boiled and cold, or of the canned salmon. The meat must 



FISH. 281 

be carefully separated from bones and skin, chopped fine and the 
juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon chopped parsley, a little salt and 
a pinch of cayenne added ; mix all together. Put two tablespoons 
best butter for each pint and a half chopped salmon into a sauce- 
pan with two teaspoons flour and cook tog'.ther, stirring constantly. 
Add a little of the stock the fish was boiled in and a cup of cream. Boil 
for five or six minutes, stirring steadily, then mix in the chopped 
salmon, stir well together, and add and stir rapidly in yolks four 
eggs. Continue to stir briskly a few minutes longer, then pour the 
mixture out upon a large flat dish and set it in a cool place until 
perfectly cold. Then make in small rolls-or pear-shaped cones, using 
just enough flour to prevent the mixture from sticking to the hands. 
When all are done, dip them one at a time into eggs beaten up with 
a little cream, and roll them in freshly-made bread-crumbs. Let 
them rest for an hour, then fry them to a delicate brown color in 
plenty of boiling hot lard. Or, mix with three-fourths pint shred 
salmon, five tablespoons bread-crumbs; melt one and one-half table- 
spoons butter and pour over the mixture, adding half teaspoon each 
Bait and pepper and saltspoon each grated nutmeg and powdered 
mace; beat all together and add juice of half a lemon, teaspoon 
anchovy sauce and two beaten eggs, stirring well ; shape and fry as 
above. 

Salmon Fritters. — Remove skin and bone from a pound canned 
salmon, mince and add an equal quantity potato that has been 
mashed and mixed with butter and cream ; work the mixture into 
little cakes and fry in a little butter. 

Boiled Salmon. — Scale and clean fish, and be i)articular that 
no blood is left inside ; lay in fish-kettle with sufficient hot water, 
to cover (hot is used to better preserve the color) adding salt in the 
proportion of six tablespoons to a gallon water. Bring it quickly to 
a boil, take off scum, and let simmer gently till the fish is done, 
which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Drain 
itj and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep warm by means of 
warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut 
lemon and parsley, and send lobster, oyster, shrimp or hollandaise 
sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A" dish of dressed 
cucumber usually accompanies this fish, and a little lemon-juice 
squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable 
addition. Peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially 
adapted to be served with salmon. Boiled is the best way of cook- 
ing salmon. For a more fancy dish arrange in the form of a letter 
S, as follows : Thread a trussing-necdle 
"with some twine ; tie the end of the string 
around the head, fastening it tight ; then 
pass the needle through the center part of 
the body, draw the string tight, and fasten 
it around the tail. The fish will assume the desired form. Salmon 




282 FISH. 

prepared thus is very nice served cold at evening parties with a 
mayonnaise sance poured over. It may then be mounted on a 
pedestal which may be carved with a sharp knife in any form de- 
sired from bread two or three days old, fried a nice brown in deep 
lard, or made of wood covered with white paper brushed over with 
aspic jelly ; the salmon should then also be decorated with bits 
of aspic jelly in squares or other forms. Cauliflower blossoms and 
sliced or quartered hard-boiled eggs make a very pretty and appro- 
priate decoration when served with the mayonnaise sauce. 

Broiled Sahnon Cutlets. — Cut slices an inch thick, and season 
with pepper and salt ; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice 
on a separate piece, with the ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear 
fire, and serve with anchovy or caper sauce. When higher season- 
ing is liked, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice. 

Escallox>ed Salmon. — Roll fine one quart crackers, season with 
salt and pepper and mix Avith one can sahnon ; put in a skillet and 
add milk (or milk and water) to moisten well, and some bits of but- 
ter. Cover and steam thoroughly. 

Fried Sahnon Steaks. — Cut slices an inch thick from the mid- 
dle of the fish, wipe dry and sprinkle on a little salt, then dip in egg 
and cracker dust and fry in hot salad oil or butter, turning to brown 
both sides. Drain and serve on hot platter lined with clean paper 
fringed at the ends ; garnish with parsley. 

Canned SaCmon. — The California canned salmon is nice served 
cold with any of the fish sauces ; mix together yolks of three eggs, 
half cup each cream and vinegar, two teaspoons brown sugar, salt, 
pepper, and celery-seed to taste ; boil thick like custard and pour 
over one can salmon. For a breakfast dish, it may be heated, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and served on slices of toast, Avith 
milk thickened with flour and butter poured over it. 

Crimped Salmon. — Take a middle cut of fresh salmon and cut 
in slices two or three inches thick. Lay in cold salted water one 
hour ; then place in boiling salted water, skim and simmer gently 
twenty minutes, if very thick slices. Garnish as in boiled salmon 
and serve with same sauce. 

Salmon Pudding. — Chop a can of preserved salmon or an 
equal amount of cold, either roast or boiled, and rub it in a mortar, 
or in a bowl with the back of a spoon, adding four tablespoons melt- 
ed — not hot — butter, until it is a smooth paste. Beat a half cup fine 
bread-crumbs with four eggs and season with salt, i:)epper and minced 
parsley, and mix all together. Put into a buttered pudding mold 
and boil or steam one hour. Make a sauce with one cup milk 
thickened with tablespoon corn-starch, the liquor from the canned 



FISH. 283 

salmon, and tablespoon butter, or double the quantity of butter when 
the liquor is not used, teaspoon anchovy, mushroom or tomato cat- 
sup, a pinch of mace or cayenne, and a beaten egg stirred in last 
very carefully. Boil one minute, and when the salmon is turned 
from the mold pour the sauce over it. Cut in slices at table. A 
very nice supper dish. 

Stewed Salmon. — Stew a can of salmon in the liquor, (or cold, 
boiled or roast in a very little water), slightly salted, ten minutes. 
Have ready in a large saucepan a cup drawn butter thickened with rice- 
flour or corn-starch. Season with cayenne and salt to taste and stir 
in carefully two beaten eggs, then the salmon. Let it come to a 
gentle boil, add two hard-boiled eggs and some capers or green 
pickles, all chopped fine, and turn into a covered deep dish. Or add 
the hard-boiled eggs and capers to the stewed salmon, with a table- 
spoon butter, toss up lightly with a fork, pepper slightly, and heap 
in the center of a hot flat dish, then pour the boiling sauce over all. 
Very nice either way. 

Sardines. — These are small fish of the herring family and come 
to us in half pound and pound tin boxes, preserved in oil, averaging 
from a dozen to twenty-four fish. They are an excellent relish and 
form a wholesome and agreeable addition to a breakfast, luncheon, 
or tea. Take out carefully, whole if possible, place on platter and 
garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, serving a slice with the 
fish. The American Sa7'dines, or shrimps, are used but are larger and 
not considered as delicate. For Fried JSardines, procure largest- 
sized sardines, remove from oil, place on diali, and let drain a few 
minutes ; dip fish in well-beaten egg, and roll in cracker crumbs ; 
fry brown as fritters or in a little butter or oil ; mix oil left in box 
with cracker-crumbs, make in very small cakes and fry and use as a 
garnish for the fish, alternated with sprigs of parsley. Serve hot. 
If one wishes ^^-^m-Made Sardines can be made : Clean 
small fish, shrimps are nice, salt slightly and let stand overnight ; in 
the morning drain. Fry in oil, just enough to cook them, then pack 
in tin cans or boxes, or glass cans, putting them in as closely as pos- 
sible. Cover with oil, and, if in boxes, solder the tops on ; if bottles, 
screw the covers on tight. Put cans in a kettle of cold water, and 
bring to a boil as quickly as possible. Let boil about an hour and 
a quarter, then punch a small hole in tin cans to let out the gas, and 
seal again immediately. If in glass, unscreAV the top and screw it 
on again as soon as possible. Let stand awhile before using. A 
favorite Parisian dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and 
()oned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put into the oven, 
with buttered p^^per over them, to get hot. Before serving, lemon 
juice is sprinkled over. 

Baked Shad. — Open and clean fish, cut off head (or not as pre- 
ferred), cut out backbone, from the head to within two inches of the 



284 FISH. 

tail, and fill with the following mixture : Soak stale hread in water, 
squeeze dry ; cut a large onion in pieces, fry in butter, chop fine, 
add bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pej)per, and a little finely 
chopped onion, parsley or sage ; heat thoroughly, and when taken 
from the fire, add two yolks of eggs well-beaten ; stuff, and, when 
full, sew or wind the fish several times with tape, place in baking- 
pan and cover the bottom of pan with water, adding a little butter, 
and baste often. When done serve with the following sauce : Re- 
duce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth ])aste, add two 
table-spoons olive oil, half teaspoon mustard, and pepper and 
vinegar to taste. Planked Shad is very delicious. Take a heavy 
oak plank 18x24 inches in size, and about an inch thick. The shad 
must be a perfectly fresh, solid and firm roe shad ; wash, wipe, salt 
on both sides and lay on board, skin side down ; put the roes in 
their places, and bake from thirty to forty minutes. If it does not 
brown easily, rub butter over when partly done. The smoking of 
the wood in the oven adds to the flavor. 

Baked Sheeps-head. — When ready for cooking, salt and pepper 
well, gash the sides in three or four places, mince four onions fine, 
add one pint bread-crumbs, a little finely minced fat meat, yolks of 
two eggs ; blend all together ; season with a little cayenne pepper, 
salt and thyme ; with this stuff the fish and fill gashes on the out- 
side ; sprinkle over with flour and black pepper ; bake slowly in a 
large pan with one quart hot water two hours. Serve with any 
sauce preferred. Sardine Sauce is a capital fish sauce. For this 
bone half a dozen large sardines, make an ordinary sauce of butter 
and gravy, and in this boil the bones, together with a minced shalot, 
lemon peel, a bay leaf, and some pepper, and either nutmeg or 
mace. Boil fifteen minutes, or until all the several flavors have been 
obtained ; then strain the sauce and add to it the sardines, chopped 
small. 

Baked Smelts. — Wash, and dry twelve smelts thoroughly in a 
cloth, and arrange them nicely in a fiat baking-dish. Cover with fine 
bread-crumbs, and little pieces of butter. Season with salt, cayenne, 
and two blades pounded mace, and bake for fifteen minutes. Just 
before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried 
parsley and cut lemon. For Fried Sm.elts\h.Q fish should be very fresh, 
and not washed more than is necessary. Dry them in a cloth, lightly 
flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread-crumbs, 
and fry in hot lard as doughnuts to nice pale brown ; be careful 

_Q not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their 

d beauty will be spoiled. Dr}'- them before the fire on a 

~^l'^ffl"° drainer, and serve at once (or the crispness and flavor will 

1 1 U y be lost,) with plain melted butter. Or place on skewers 

,* ^ with thin slices of bacon between the fish; fry in hot 

— cO^-d lard or oil as above, serving one skewerful, skewer and 

all, to each person, garnishing with lemon slices. Use either gilver 



FISH. 285 

plated or polished wire skewers. They are about three inches long. 

Fried Filleted Soles. — Soles for filleting should be large, as the 
flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less 
waste. Skin and wash the fish, raise the meat carefully from 
the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces. The more usual 
way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and 
either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through 
them. Brush over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs ; fry as 
doughnuts. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on 
a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat ; or place a sheet 
of kitchen paper in a dripping pan ; place the fillets on that and 
set in oven a moment or two. Particular attention should be paid 
to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy fish. Serve 
hot and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty 
dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing 
soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. Instead 
of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged 
in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. Any fish may be filleted 
as above. 

Baked Sturgeon. — A piece of sturgeon weighing five or six 
pounds is enough for a handsome dish ; skin and put in salted 
water and parboil for half an hour to remove superfluous oil ; pre- 
pare a dressing of bread-crumbs, fine bits of fat salt pork, sweet 
herbs and butter ; gash upper end of fish quite deeply and rub this 
forcemeat in well ; place in baking dish on trivet with a little hot 
water to prevent burning and bake an hour. Serve with a drawn 
butter sauce in which has been stirred a tablespoon caper sauce and 
one of walnut catsup or anchovy sauce. 

Sturgeon Steaks. — Skin steaks carefully and place in cold salted 
water for an hour to remove oily taste ; wipe dry, broil over hot 
coals on a buttered gridiron. When done serve on hot platter 
seasoned with pepper and butter, and salt if needed, and garnish 
with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve the latter with the fish. 
Make a sauce by browning tablespoon butter in pan, then add a 
tablespoon browned flour first wet with a little cold water and then 
stirred into a half teacup boiling water, season and add a teaspoon 
Worcestershire or anchovy sauce and juice of a lemon ; when it boils 
serve in gravy boat with the steaks. 

Bahed Trout. — Scale and scrape clean a seven-pound Lake 
Superior trout, but do not cut off head or tail ; wash inside quickly 
with cold water and rub well with salt and pepper if wished ; then 
score the top (back) offish by making gashes two and a half inches 
long, an inch deep and three inches apart ; now stuff with a rather 
dry dressing made by cutting off crusts from four or five slices bread, 



286 FISH. 

put in pan, pour over a very little boiling water, cover tightly 
with a cloth, and when soft add tablespoon butter, pepper, salt, an egg 
and the bread from which the crusts were cut. Mix well and add a 
little seasoning of sage, marjoram, or any mixed seasoning, using 
only a very small pinch ; sew up and tie securely in a circle by 
placing a string around the back of head under the gills and then 
around the first score above the tail, and putting the tail in the 
mouth ; cutting a few small gashes in the side offish next to the in- 
side of circle facilitates the shaping. Beat two eggs and spread 
over fish, having first placed it on a large tin or earthen plate, 
putting egg batter well inside the gashes, sprinkle with finely rolled 
cracker crumbs and put a little butter in each gash and more on 
top, unless a very fat fish. Place in dripping pan on the plate or 
trivet in a moderately hot oven and add one quart boiling water 
and tablespoon salt ; in ten minutes baste well and baste every ten 
minutes till fish is done (in two hours). Bake slowly first hour, 
add more water if needed, then increase heat third half hour so that 
for last half hour the oven is very hot, thus nicely browning the 
fish. The basting every ten minutes is very important and must 
be done to avoid a dried-up, taste- 
less fish. Slip from plate to hot 
platter and serve at once, garnished 
with parsley. The marinade given 
in preface may be used in place of 
part of the water, and gives a fine jisn Knire and Fork. 

flavor. To serve easily carve with a fish knife and fork. Treat a 
white fish as above and a delicious Baked White Fish will result. 

Brook Trout. — Wash and drain in a colander a few minutes, 
split nearly to the tail, flour nicely, salt, and put in pan, which 
should be hot but not burning ; throw in a little salt to prevent 
sticking, and do not turn until brown enough f(^r the table. The 
general defect in cooking trout when fried, is over cooking. They 
should never be done to a crisp. Fry also in a little butter or oil 
and omit the flour, frying them perfectly plain. For Broiled Trout 
wrap in a piece of glazed paper, which should be well buttered ; 
sprinkle a very little salt and pepper on them ; put them in a 
double broiler and turn the broiler over from side to side. Serve 
with lemon juice over them. Boiled Trout is better than fried or 
broiled. Put trout on a napkin, sprinkle with salt, fold together 
and put in boiling salted water. If they are of medium size will bo 
cooked in two or three minutes. When done place on a clean 
napkin on a hot platter and serve with fresh butter and boiled 
potatoes. For Bal'ed Trout., dry the fish, do not split them ; lay 
on baking dish, add a little butter, pepper and salt. Serve as soon 
as done, which will be in fifteen or twenty minutes. 




FISH. 287 

Fried Whitebait. — These fish must be put into ice water as 
soon as bought unless cooked immediately. Drain from the water 
in colander, and have ready a cl(^n dry cloth, over which put two 
good handfuls flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake lightly in the 
cloth, and put in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous flour. 
Throw into a pan of boiling lard, very fcAV at a time, and lot fry till 
a whitey-brown color ; take out and lay over the fire for a minute or 
two on a sieve reversed, covered with blotting paper to absorb the 
fat. Dish on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the center, 
and sprinkle a little salt over the whole. 

Baked White Fish. — Take out bone and skin as in general 
directions, and cut fish in pieces three inches long and two inches 
wide. Use two soup plates or deep earthen dishes same size, butter 
thickly with cold butter, place in layer of fish, season with pepper, 
salt and a little butter, then another layer fish, season as above 
using much more butter on last laA^er ; then butter inside of second 
dish very thoroughly and turn it upside down over the fish ; put in 
oven and bake twenty minutes, or till flakes break. 

Boiled White Fish. — Clean, wash and i)ut a whole fish in kettle 
and cover with stock made as follows : Fry in saucepan two onions, 
a carrot, a piece of celery or celery seed, a talilespoon butter, one of 
flour, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoon of whole black peppers, and 
three cloves ; add two and a half quarts of water and two cups 
vinegar, boil twenty minutes, salt and skim, and when cold pour 
over fish, and boil gently until done. Dish on 
hot platter and garnish with potatoes cut in 
little balls, and placed like little piles of cannon 
balls around the dish. The potatoes should be 
simply boiled in salted water, and, if liked, ma}^ be browned in a 
little butter in frying-pan. An alternate pile of button mushrooms 
are a nice addition, and good also. Parsley or small curled lettuce 
leaves are placed between the piles. The fish may be stuff"ed before 
boiling with a dressing of rolled crackers seasoned with butter, pepper, 
salt and sage. See directions for boiled fish. For Spiced Fish 
take any cold cooked fish. Take out all bones and bits of skin, lay 
in a deep dish and barely cover with hot vinegar in which a few 
cloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as 
cold. For Kedgeree, pick cup cold fish carefully from the bones, mix 
with cup boiled rice, tablespoon butter, teaspoon mustard, two soft 
boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste ; place in oven fifteen minutes 
and serve hot. The quantities may be varied according to amount 
offish used. Or, chop two hard-boiled eggs slightly and put into a 
saucepan with a little melted butter, add fish and rice as above, stir 
over the fire until very hot, taking care that it does not burn, and just 
before serving add a teaspoon curry poM'der and a saltspoon each 




288 FISH. 

pepper and salt. Pile high in the middle of a hot dish and sprinkle 
finely chopped j)arsley over the ^ op. 

Creamed White Fish. — Steam a white fish till tender, take out 
bones and sprinkle with white pepper and salt. For dressing, heat 
a pint of milk, or stock, thicken with two tablespoons flour and 
season with a little chopped onion or onion juice and parsley ; some 
add also juice of half a lemon or a tablespoon vinegar ; when cool 
add two tablespoons butter and two well-beaten eggs. Put in a 
buttered baking dish a layer of fish, then a layer of the sauce or 
dressing till full, with sauce last ; cover the top with bread crumbs, 
add a little grated cheese if liked, bake half an hour, and serve in 
dish in which it was baked, garnished with slices of hard-boiled 
eggs alternated with sprigs of parsley. In making the sauce some 
prefer to brown the flour in the butter, then add the stock or milk 
and other ingredients. A less rich sauce is one quart rich milk 
thickened with three tablespoons flour mixed smooth with a little 
of the quart of milk, two or three sprigs of parsley, an onion 
chopped fine, little cavenne and salt. Stir over fire till it thickens 
and add butter size oi" an egg. Some do not cool the fish before 
creaming, but skin and bone it, cut into pieces about three inches 
square, and bake in a shallow dish in two layers, with sauce inter- 
vening. Serve garnished with parsley and slices of hard-boiled egg. 
This quantity is enough for three pounds of fish, weighed after 
being skinned and boned, and will serve six persons if it is the 
only solid dish for dinner, or ten if served in a course. This 
dish is also called Fish au Gratin, andanotherway isto skin,cutoff 
the head, and take out the back-bone, leaving the fish in two large 
pieces. Season the fish, and prepare the sauce as before; butter a 
tin sheet that will fit loosely into a large baking-pan, lay the fish 
on this and moisten well with sauce, cover thickly with bread- 
crumbs, and cook half an hour in a rather quick oven. Slip on 
hot ]i]atter and serve with tomato, tartare or hollandaise sauce 
poured around the fish. Cod cusk, flounder or any kind of light 
fish may be served after one or the other above methods. 

Warmed-over Fish. — Stir a tablespoon flour into two of hot 
butter in saucepan, and add a half pint cold flaked fish, a tea- 
spoon cold butter, dessert-spoon each anchovy or any other meat 
sauce and mixed mustard, a cup cream or thickened milk, pepper 
and salt to taste and a few bread-crumbs. Heat to boiling point 
and serve hot. Or, put into buttered dish with bread-crumbs and 
bits of butter over the top. and brown. 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 289 



FRITTERS AISTD CROQIJETTES. 



Make the fritter batter quickly and beat thoroughly until 
smooth. A good rule is two eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately, half pint milk, one level teaspoon salt, and pint flour, a 
tablespoon American cooking oil, or butter, or salad oil, and a 
seasoning of cinnamon or nutmeg may be added if wished; if the 
batter is for fish or meat fritters add a saltspoon white pepper and a 
dash of cayenne. Water may be used instead of milk, with a table- 
spoon or two of lemon juice if liked, and some add the wetting 
gradually. The batter for fritters should be just thick enough to 
drop, not run, from the spoon — do not make too stiff — and should 
be made an hour before using. Some claim it is better to stand a 
day, as the grains of flour swell by standing after being moistened 
and thus become lighter. Add the whites of eggs — and when 
baking powder is used, that also^ust before frying. Less eggs 
are needed with baking powder, using one egg in the above batter 
with a heaping teaspoon baking powder or teaspoon cream tartar 
and half teaspoon soda. The fritters are much nicer with the eggs, 
and without the rising powders, but it is convenient to use the 
latter when preparing for immediate use. Some use cracker dust 
instead of flour, thinking it makes the batter lighter. Arrowroot 
may be used to thicken batters, sauces, etc., making the mixture 
much more delicate, and with it butter can l)e omitted. Its thick- 
ening property is about three times that of flour. It is better not to 
use sugar in the batter, as it tends to make it heavy, but sprinkle it 
over the fritters in the dish when just ready to serve, though in 



290 FRITTERS AKD CROQUETTES. 

makinp; fniit fritters some stir in a little sugar. Fruit fritters are 
made by chopping any kind of fresh or canned fruit fine and mixing 
it with batter, or by dipping it whole, halved, quartered or sliced 
into the batter, using a skewer or fork for this purpose, and taking 
a pint or less of any kind of fruit for the above quantity of batter. 
The fruit may be improved in flavor by sprinkling sugar and grated 
lemon or orange peel over it,'and allowing it to remain two or 
three hours, after which drain and dip in the batter as above ; or, 
marinade the fruit in a thin orange or lemon syrup. To marinade 
anything is to leave it in a composition long enough to absorb the 
flavor — in this case, from one to two hours. Pork fritters are made 
liy dipping thin bits of breakfast bacon or fat pork in the batter. 
The common practice is to fry fritters in lard, but the American 
cooking oil is much superior and no more expensive. It never 
burns, can be used again and again, and keeps clear and perfectly 
sweet. Clarified drippings (see index), or half drippings and half 
lard, is much better than all lard. Have the fat in which to cook 
thern nice and sweet, and heat slowly. Clarified fat boils at about 
five hundred degrees — more than double the heat of boiling water — 
and fat actually boiling will burn to a cinder anything that is 
dropped into it. The proper cooking heat is three hundred and 
seventy-five degrees, and is indicated by a blue smoke arising from 
the surface of the fat. "When this point is reached, the fat may be 
held at that degree of heat, and prevented from burning by drop- 
ping into it a peeled potato or a piece of hard bread, which furnishes 
something for the fat to act upon. Generally the cold batter lowers 
the temperature of the fat sufficientl}' to keep it at proper cooking 
heat. The heat may be tested by dropping in a teaspoon of the 
batter ; if the temperature is right it will quickly rise in a light ball 
with a splutter, and soon brown ; drop the batter in by spoonfuls, 
being careful not to crowd, and fry to a golden-brown, turning with 
a wire spoon to brown both sides ; if the fat is of the right heat the 
fritters will be done in from three to five minutes and be light and 
delicious ; if they should begin to brown too much check the heat 
at once ; take up carefully the moment they are done, with a wire 
&I)oon or skimmer, drain in a hot colander, or in a pan with brown 
kitchen paper or blotting paper in the bottom to absorb the fat, set 
in oven to keep hot ; some drain on an inverted sieve, placing paper 
both under and over the fritters. Sift powdered sugar over them, 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 291 

some use a little nutmeg or cinnamon also, and serve hot on a clean 
napkin to absorb any remains of fat ; or line the dish with tissue 
paper fringed at the ends ; paper napkins are nice for this purpose 
To keep hot, cover with a iiapldn, never with a dish-cover ; the 
former absorbs the steam that arises, which would otherwise gathei 
on the inside of the cover, and dropping back on the fritters would 
make them soggy and heavy. A Fritter Doihj, made of butchers' 
linen in the shajje of a maltese cross, with any pretty design worked 
in the corners, is a new and hapj^y conceit, as the fritters may be 
served upon it and the four ends be brought up to cover them. 
Always serve at once (frying as wanted) with syrup or honey, 
or any sweet sauce preferred, for which see Puddings. 

In all the recipes that follow, the mode of testing the fat and 
frying is the same as given above. A tablespoon of batter makes a 
fritter of the usual size, a teaspoon about the size of an oyster. 

Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, and 
eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as many of 
the messes recommended as food for dyspeptics 



Apple Fritters.— Make a batter in proportion of one cup sweet 
milk to two cups flour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder, two eggs 
beaten separately, one tablespoon sugar, and saltspoon salt ; bioat 
the milk a little more than milk-warm, add slowly to the beaten 
yolks and sugar, then add flour and whites of eggs ;' stir all together 
and throw in thin slices of good sour apples, dipping the batter up 
over them ; drop in lard in large spoonfuls with piece of apple in 
each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup or a nice 
syrup made of sugar. Another way of making is to beat three eggs 
very lightly, stir in one teaspoon salt, one-half cup sugar, one pint 
miUc, two cups chop])ed apple and two cups flour. Flavor with 
nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry as directed in preface ; sift 
sugar over them and serve. Or, peel, steam and pulp six good 
sized apples, add juice two lemons, four well-beaten eggs, sugar to 
taste and a little cream. Mix thoroughly, roll into balls with 
enough cracker dust or fine bread-crumbs to keep in shape and fry 
as above. Serve strewn with poAvdered sugar. A very nice way of 
preparing the apples is to pare and cut them across 'in slices about 
an inch thick, then with the corer remove the core from each slice, 
leaving a round opening in the center. Dip into the batter and fry 
each slice separately, lay them in a dish in a circle overlapping one 
another, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with a sweet sauce in the 



292 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

center. Orange Fritters are prepared as above, and make a deli- 
cious desert. 

Apricot Fritters. — Cut apricots in quarters, remove skins care- 
fully and soak for an hour in orange syrup, drain on a sieve and 
dip each piece into this batter : Mix with one and one-half pints 
flour two tablespoons butter, two yolks of eggs and a little salt ; stir 
in slowly and a little at a time a tablespoon mure than a pint luke- 
warm water, and work the batter with a wooden spoon until it looks 
creamy, then add well-whipped whites of three eggs. Fry a golden 
brown color, place in a dish, sift powdered sugar over, and send to 
table with a custard poured around them, dipping a spoonful over 
each fritter in serving. Fritters may be prepared as above with any 
stoned fruit. 

Banana Fritters. — One cup flour, yolks of two eggs, pinch of 
salt, two tablespoons melted lard or butter, water to make a batter 
as above. Add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and stir in lightly 
three or four bananas cut in slices. Dip with a spoon and fry as 
directed in preface. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with 
whipped or plain sweetened cream. This will make a dessert for 
eight persons. 

Berry Fritters. — One and a half pints flour, gill cream, or 
tablespoon melted butter, pint milk, six eggs, teaspoon salt ; mix 
well and add either blackberries, currants, gooseberries or rasp- 
berries and fry by siDOonfuls. Eat with a hard sauce. 

Brain Fritters. — Beat one egg and a half cup sweet milk with 
sufficient flour to make a thick batter, seasoning with salt and 
pepper to taste. Beat well and stir in beef or pork brains. Drop 
by spoonfuls, and fry in hot fat. Considered by some superior to 
oysters cooked in same way. 

CaJie Fritters. — TaKe six or eight stale small sponge cakes and 
roll or pound fine ; pour a cup boiling hot cream over them and stir 
in tablespoon corn starch wet Avith a little cold milk ; cover for half 
an hour, then beat until cold and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten 
light and strained, the whipped whites, then a quarter pound cur- 
rants thickly dredged with flour. Beat all well together. Drop 
from tablespoon, fry quickly and serve hot with any nice sauce. Or, 
make a sponge-cake batter, drop by teaspoonfuls and fry as above. 
Serve for dessert with a hot sauce. 

Celery Fritters.— Boil thick but tender stalks of celery in 
salted water ; when done dry on a cloth, cut in equal lengths about 
one and a half inches ; fry in batter to a golden color, sprinkling 
fine salt well over, and serve. If wanted extra nice cut a half dozen 
stalks tender, well blanched celery into pieces an inch or two long 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 293 

and boil in .salted water until tender. While boiling make a batter 
as follows : Mix smooth the yolk of a raw egg and a tablespoon 
salad oil ; add a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, sift in a half 
pint flour and add water to make a batter that Avill drop from spoon. 
Just before using add whipped whites of two eggs. Dip the cooked 
celery in this and fry a delicate brown in hot fat ; drain and serve 
at once. 

Clam Fritters. — Wash one dozen hard or soft shell clams, 
divide soft and hard parts of each clam, boil the latter in water half 
an hour, or till tender, drain, chop fine and add the water in which 
they were cooked, also the soft parts, yolks of two well-beaten eggs, 
saltspoon salt, dash or tAvo of cayenne, half pint milk, whites of 
eggs, and flour so that batter will drop from spoon ; fry gs above. 
Or, make a batter with juice, an equal quantity of sweet milk, four 
eggs to each pint of liquid, and flour sufficient to stiffen ; add 
chopped raw clams, or dip in the whole clam and fry. 

Corn Fritters. — To one quart grated raw sweet corn, (fifteen 
common-sized ears) add yolks of three eggs and scant three-fourths 
pint cracker-crumbs ; if corn is not juicy use less, making batter only 
stiff enough to drop from spoon. Beat very thoroughly, season 
with salt and pepper, add well-frothed Avhites, and drop with tea- 
spoon and fry ; turn out and drain as directed. Serve hot, using 
the fritter doily in dish, or place an ordinary napkin under and 
over. Some add to this batter a piece of salt codfish, size of a silver 
dollar, shredded very fine, as this gives the peculiar oyster taste, 
and hence the name sometimes given them of Corn Oysters. Above 
proportions make six dozen fritters, and are very easily made. Or, 
for Dried Corn Fritters., grate corn as above and dry on plates so 
as to preserve all the juice, as in recipe for drying corn, or better on 
the evaporator hereafter described. To make, soak the grated corn 
overnight in water or milk, and add eggs and crackers as above. 
These are as delicious as when made from raw corn, and well repay 
the trouble of drying the corn. 

Corn Meal Fritters. — Beat and strain the yolks of four eggs ; 
add one tablespoon each sugar and melted butter, one teaspoon 
salt, one-half teaspoon soda dissolved in hot Avater, a pint each milk 
and best corn^ meal, (sugar may be omitted). Beat hard five 
minutes and stir in the whipped whites of the eggs and a half cup 
flour into which a teaspoon cream tartar has been sifted. Beat again 
thoroughly, adding more milk if necessary to make it drop from" the 
spoon ; fry, drain and serve at once with a hard sauce. 

Cream Fritters. — Whip the whites of five eggs ana stir into 
one cup cream, add two full cups flour, a saltspoon nutmeg, 
a pinch of salt, and teaspoon baking powder. Beat hard two 



294 rRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

minutes, fry by spoonfuls, drain and serve hot on napkin. Eat with 
jelly sauce. 

Currant Fritters. — Put a half pint milk into a bowl with two 
tablespoons flour, which should previously be rubbed smooth with 
a little cold milk ; stir Avell together and add four well-beaten eggs, 
three tablespoons each boiled rice, and fresh or dried currants, 
sugar and nutmeg to taste. Beat the mixture a few minutes, and if 
not thick enough add a little more boiled rice ; fry by spoonfuls a 
nice brown, pile on a white napkin, strew sifted sugar over and 
serve very hot with a garnish of sliced lemon. 

Egg Plant Fritters. — Take a large-sized egg plant, leave on 
stem and skin and boil in porcelain kettle until very soft, just so 
that it cd»i be taken out with the aid of a fork or spoon ; take off all 
the skin and mash very fine in an earthen bowl. When cold add 
teaspoon salt, plenty of pepper, two tablespoons flour, a half cup 
cream or milk and three eggs. Have fat hot, drop in batter as for 
any fritters and brown nicely on each side. 

Grape Fritters. — Cup flour, yolks of two eggs, two tablespoons 
salad oil, pinch each spice and salt, and enough cold water to make a 
batter about like sponge cake. When mixed smoothly add whites 
of eggs beaten to stiff froth. Dip little clusters of grapes in the 
batter and fry in smoking hot fat. Take up, drain, dust with pow- 
dered sugar, and serve either hot or cold as a dessert. 

Hominy Fritters. — Mix well one pint boiled hominy, one gill 
cream, two tablespoons corn starch, two eggs, half teaspoon baking 
powder, saltspoon salt. If too stiff add a little more cream or milk. 
Fry, drain and dust as above, and serve with any sauce liked. 

Italian Fritters. — With a wooden spatula stir rapidly into 
one pound sifted flour one and a half pints boiling water. Add 
three or four eggs, one at a time, and beat well in, thus forming a 
very delicate batter paste. Press this through a syringe or confec- 
tioners' bag into hot lard, and as soon as a bright yellow color they 
are done. Drain in colander, pile on a dish and powder plenti- 
fully with fine sugar. This is a favorite dish in Italy, called there 
"cinci^" May be served with a sauce if liked. 

Lemon Fritters. — Three eggs, one pint flour, three-fourths tea- 
cup powdered sugar ; beat the yolks well, add flour and enough milk 
— about a gill — to make a stiff" batter ; beat the whites stiff" with the 
sugar, the juice of a lemon and some of the yellow peel grated off, 
or teaspoon extract of lemon, and beat into the batter just before 
frying. 

Lobster Fritters. — Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water 
with a half cup salt, and boil twenty-five minutes ; when cold 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 295 

remove the meat and fat and cut into small slices ; put into a sauce- 
pan a tablespoon each butter and flour, a cup cream, little celery, 
salt, thyme, white pepper, and a saltspoon parsley ; let boll two 
minutes and add yolks four eggs and the lobster ; mix and set back 
to simmer five minutes ; pour it out on a well greased dish and set 
away to get firm by cooling ; cut into slices, dip into fritter batter, 
(see preface) and fry as directed. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs 
of parsley, quite dry, fried in lard fifteen seconds. 

Mince Meat fritters. — Mix half pound (about one pint) mince 
meat, four tablespoons bread-crumbs or one tablespoon flour, two 
eggs and juice of half a lemon ; beat well together and fry as 
directed. 

Nutmeg Fritters. — One cup sugar, butter size of hickory nut, 
one and a half cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda and a little nut- 
meg. Stir in flour till thick as fruit cake ; drop a teaspoon at a 
time in hot fat. Very nice for breakfast with coffee. 

Orange Fritters. — Make a nice light batter with one pint flour, 
tablespoon butter, half saltspoon salt, two eggs and sufficient milk 
to make it proper consistency ; peel oranges, remove as much of the 
white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces 
without breaking the thin skin, unless necessary to remove pips ; 
dip each piece of orange in the batter, drop in hot fat, and fry a del- 
icate brown. Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar. Or, cut 
oranges in slices across, take out all seeds, dip slices in batter, fry 
and serve as above. 

yster Fritters. — Drain one dozen oysters and dry thoroughly 
in a towel ; make a batter of two cups flour, yolk of one egg, table- 
spoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, dust of cayenne, well-beaten white, 
chopped oysters, and sufficient oyster liquor to make a batter thick 
enough to drop from spoon. Or, leave oysters whole and dip 
singly in batter, using a fork or skewer, and fry. For latter way 
have batter thicker than if chopped oysters are used. One cup 
milk may be substituted for the liquor, and some add half teaspoon 
lemon juice. 

Parsnip Fritters. — One cup dry mashed parsnip, tablespoon 
each butter and flour, an egg, and salt and pepper. Stir all together ; 
drop by spoonfuls and fry as directed. 

Peach Fritters.— (With, yeast.) Sift a quart flour into bowl, 
add a cup milk and half cup yeast, and set in warm place to rise. 
This will take five or six hours. Then beat four eggs very light, 
with two tablespoons each sugar and butter and a little salt ; mix 
with the risen dough and beat thoroughly with wooden spoon. 
Knead with the hands ; pull off bits of dough about the size of an 



296 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

egg, flatten each and put in the center a peach, from which the 
stone has been taken through a slit in the side; enclose it in the 
dough, make into a roll and set in order upon a floured pan for 
second rising. The balls must not touch and should be light in an 
hour. Have ready a large kettle or saucepan of hot lard, drop in 
the balls and fry more slowly than fritters made in the usual way. 
Drain on hot white paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve hot 
with rich sauce. These fritters may be made of canned peaches 
or apricots drained and wiped dry. 

Pineapple Fritters. — Pare a pineapple with as little waste as 
possible and cut into rather thin slices ; soak the slices four hours 
in a lemon syrup, dip into the fritter batter given in preface and fry. 
Serve quickly, strewn with sifted sugar. A very elegant dish. 

Potato Fritters. — Boil two potatoes, and beat up lightly with a 
fork — do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat 
yolks of four eggs well, add two tablespoons each cream and orange 
juice, two-thirds tablespoon lemon juice and half teaspoon grated 
nutmeg and beat all together for at least twenty minutes, or until 
the batter is extremely light ; then add well frothed whites of three 
eggs and fry as directed. Serve with the following hot sauce : Four 
tablespoons orange juice and half pint boiling water, mixed with the 
strained juice of a lemon, warmed together and sweetened with white 
sugar. Or scoop out the insides of four nicely baked potatoes and 
make as above, using four tablespoons cream and adding two of 
powdered sugar ; flavor with juice of a lemon and half the grated 
peel, or a half teaspoon vanilla. 

Queen Fritters. — Put three heaping tablespoons flour into a 
bowl and pour over it enough boiling water to make a stiff* paste, 
stirring and beating well to prevent lumps. Let cool, break into it 
(without beating) yolks of four eggs and whites of two, and stir and 
beat all well together ; drop by dessertspoonfuls, and fry a light 
brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve 
on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in be- 
tween the fritters. Excellent for a hasty addition to dinner, when 
a guest appears unexpectedly ; easily and quickly made, and always 
a favorite. 

Rice Fritters. — Boil one cup rice in one pint milk until soft ; 
add yolks of three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons 
each butter and flour ; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped 
to a stiff" froth ; drop in spoonfuls and fry a light brown. Serve 
with sweetened cream or lemon sauce. To make nice fritters with 
marmalade cook seven tablespoons rice in a quart milk, with six 
tablespoons sugar and one of butter, over a slow fire until perfectly 
tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour ; then strain 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 297 

away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it six table- 
spoons orange marmalade and four well-beaten eggs ; stir over the 
fire until the eggs are set ; then spread mixture about half an inch 
thick, or rather thicker, on plate or board. When perfectly cold, 
cut into long strips, dip in batter and fry a nice brown. Dish on a 
white doily, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. Another 
excellent way is to soak a cup rice, three hours in enough warm 
water to cover well ; then put it into a farina-kettle, set in an outer 
vessel of hot water, and simmer until dry. Add two cups milk and 
cook until it is all absorbed. Stir in one tablespoon butter and take 
from fire. Beat three eggs very light with three tablespoons sugar, 
and when the mixture is cold stir them in with a flavoring of nut- 
meg and a little salt. Make into round flat cakes. Place in the 
middle of each two or three raisins which have been "plumped" in 
boiling water, roll the cake into a ball enclosing the raisins, flour 
well and fry in hot fat. Serve on a napkin, with sugar and cinna- 
mon sifted over. Eat with sweetened cream, hot or cold. Or scald 
nine tablespoons rice and boil it in just enough milk to keep rather 
thick. When partially cooled mix with it a lump of butter, four 
tablespoons grated cheese and yolks of three eggs. Season to taste, 
drop into hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a nice brown. Arrange in a 
circle on a napkin lapping over one another and serve. 

Rye Fritters. — Two eggs, three cups flour, one cup rye-meal, 
one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one cup sugar, a little salt ; 
mix with milk or water, drop from a spoon into hot lard. 

Sandwich Fritters. — Cut thin slices of bread and butter them; 
spread half with any jam that may be preferred, and cover with the 
other slices; slightly press together, and cut in square, long, or 
round pieces. Dip in a batter, prepared as in preface, and frv in 
hot fat for about ten minutes ; drain and sprinkle over with sifted 
sugar, and serve. 

Snow Fritters. — The success of these depends upon using snow 
that has just fallen and is full of bubbles of air, which makes them 
light. Have the fat hot, and make a thick batter of a pint milk, 
level teaspoon salt, and sifted flour to make thick enough so that 
when dropped the batter will cling for a moment to the spoon ; 
when the fat begins to smoke, stir into the batter very quickly a cup 
newly fallen snow and fry at once by tablespoonfuls. If the batter 
stands after snow is added the fritters will not be light, because the 
air will soon escape from the batter. Serve with syrup, sugar and 
butter, or any sauce preferred. Some . add an egg and an apple 
chopned fine. 

Walnut Fritters. — Take two-inch squares of baked "walnuts" 
rolled very thin, marinade in orange syrup and dip in batter and fry. 



298 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

Vanities. — Beat two eggs, stir in pinch salt and a half teaspoon 
rose-water, ad'd sifted flour till just thick enough to roll out, cut with 
a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in hot fat. Sift powdered sugar on 
them while hot, and when cool put a tea-spoon jelly in the center of 
each one. Nice for tea or dessert. 



Croquettes, 



To make croquettes successfully has been said to require both 
painstaking and practice, but by observing the directions given here 
and in the recipes that follow, one who has never before attempted 
these dainties may, with a few odds and ends from the breakfast or 
dinner table, create surprisingly tempting dishes, both to the eye 
and the palate. All ingredients must be thoroughly mixed ; when 
meat is used all bits of bone, gristle, skin and fat must be carefully 
removed and meat chopped very fine, and the whole mixture made 
as moist as can be handled. Very dry or tough meat is not suitable 
for croquettes ; tender, roasted pieces give the best flavor. When 
the mixture is to be cooked it is only necessary to thoroughly heat 
through, and it must then stand until cold before shaping. If too 
moist add a little cracker-dust or crumbs, if too dry a little cream 
or yolk of an egg. Use white pepper for seasoning. 

Croquettes may be made into flat, oval, pear or egg shapes, balls 
and rolls, of which the latter are most easily made, but the pear 
shape is the handsomest; when fried and ready to serve make an 
incision in the stalk end and insert a piece of citron an eighth of an 
inch square and about an inch long for a stem, 
and a clove for the blossom ; great care 
Coquettes. is required in shaping and frying. When 

shaped as rolls they should be about three inches long, and are 
made by taking the desired quantity of the mixture and rolUng it 
very gently on a board sprinkled lightly with fine bread-crumbs or 
cracker-dust. Handle very carefully, slightly flouring the hands, 
as the slightest pressure will break them. Let them lie on the 




CROQUETTES. 299 



board until all are finished, when if any have flattened they must be 
rolled into form again. When croquettes are shaped have ready 
some well-beaten eggs in a soup plate or shallow dish — the number 
will of course depend upon the number of croquettes — and some 
finely rolled bread or cracker-crumbs or cracker-dust on a board, 
or sheet of clean brown paper. Save all bits of bread for such pur- 
poses, and prepare by drying in the oven and rolling very Une^ as 
fine as possible, keeping in a covered box, tin can or glass jar, or in 
a closely tied paper sack, in dry place. Cracker-dust may be 
bought at almost any grocery. The croquettes may be single- 
breaded, double-breaded or double-egg-breaded, according to the 
amount of moisture they contain, and must always be so thoroughly 
encased in the egg and crumbs that the fat may not penetrate them. 
To Single-'bread simply coat with the beaten egg first (either by 
dipping the croquettes into it or brushing them over) and then roll 
them in crumbs, beginning with those that were first egged and 
proceeding in that order until all are done. BouUe-hreadmg is 
rolling them first in the crumbs, then coating with beaten egg, and 
again rolling in the crumbs. To Double- eg g-lread^ dip first in egg, 
then roll in crumbs, dip again into the egg, and roll in crumbs again. 
The croquettes are very much nicer to let stand fifteen minutes 
after they are crumbed before egging and breading again, and from 
a half hour to an hour before frying, which dries the eggs and 
crumbs thoroughly into a sort of shell. The improvement in 
appearance and lightness will well repay one for the extra time 
and trouble. When double-egg-breading some think the croquettes 
much handsomer to roll the last time in rather coarse bread-crumbs, 
using either cracker-dust or fine crumbs for first breading. It is 
also recommended to add to the eggs to be used in breading a 
mixture of oil, water and salt, in the proportion of one tablespoon 
each oil and water and a little salt. Use either American cooking 
oil or salad oil. Fry in hot fat or oil, as fritters, a 
few at a time ( a frying basket is very convenient 
for this purpose), cooking until a rich brown color, 
which will take a minute or two ; then take up, 
drain, and serve as directed for fritters. Or they 
Fo-iug Basutt. jjjg^y ^3^ ixxa^i in frying-pan in a little butter or 

drippings, but are not as nice. In making croquettes after recipes 
given, any seasoning or flavoring not liked may be omitted and 




300 CROQUETTES. 



another substituted for it or not as preferred. Croquettes may be 
fried without breading if making in a hurry, by simply rolling in 
flour, without using the eggs, but the result will not be so satisfac- 
tory or pleasing. 

A pretty breakfast dish may be made of croquettes of fish, 
lobster, fowl or meat in the shape of hen's eggs heaped upon a dish 
and surrounded by very thin strips of fried 
potato, arranged to look as much as possible 
like straw, and garnished with croutons of bread. 
Corn fritters and any good meat croquettes are HcusNest. 

nice served together at tea or luncheon on same platter, neatl}' 
arranged heaps of fritters on one end of platter and croquettes on 
the other, placing two fritters and two croquettes upon each plate. 




Bread Croquettes. — Cut the crust from a stale loaf of bread or 
rolls, and cut into balls, squares, circles, diamonds, etc. Soak them 
in a shallow dish containing a cup milk with two teaspoons sugar 
and a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg (some add a beaten egg), 
turning occasionally until the whole is absorbed ; or, soak them in 
a thin custard flavored with lemon-zest, vanilla or rose-water. Do 
not let them become moist enough to break. Bread and fry as 
directed in preface, and serve Avith lemon sauce. 

Chicken Croquettes. — Take cold minced chicken and bread 
crumbs in the proportion of one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as 
meat, and one egg beaten light to each cup of meat, with gravy 
enough to moisten the crumbs and chicken — or, if there is no gravy, 
a little drawn butter or cream ; add pepper, salt and chopp'ed 
parsley to taste, and mix with meat the yolks of two hard-boiled 
eggs rubbed fine with a spoon. Mix all into a paste, shape into 
balls with floured hands, double-bread them and drop into hot lard. 
Drain and serve in a heated dish, garnished with cresses or parsley. 
Mashed potato may be used instead of bread-crumbs, taking two- 
thirds as much potato as meat. Or, fry three shallots in butter, add 
half pint chopped chicken, dredge in teaspoon flour, season with 
pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and add sufficient white sauce 
to moisten it ; stir in yolks of two well-beaten eggs, ancf cool. 
Then make mixture up in balls, single-bread and fry a nice brown. 
They may be served on top of border of mashed potatoes with 
gravy or sauce in center. Or, chop cold chicken with a few slices 
ham, fat or lean, add half as much bread-crumbs, season with salt 
and pepper, a little nutmeg, teaspoon each made mustard and 
catsup and tablespoon butter ; mix and work well together, make 



CROQHETTES. 301 



into cakes, single-bread and fry ; or another good proportion is a 
full pint cooked and finely chopped chicken, one tablespoon each 
flour and salt, half teaspoon each pepper and onion juice, one cup 
cream or chicken stock, and three tablespoons butter. Boil the 
cream or stock, add chicken and seasoning and boil two minutes ; 
stir in two well-beaten eggs and take from fire immediately. When 
cold, shape, roll in crumbs and fry. Finely chopped onion is often 
used instead of onion juice, and chopped mushrooms are a nice 
addition. Chopped parsley, thyme, sage, mace, nutmeg, or any 
seasoning liked, may be employed, and some prefer cracker-dust to 
bread-crumbs. The meat of any fowl may be used, and Veal, 
Mutton and Ham Croquettes are make in same way, or half veal 
and half ham is a nice mixture. Ham and chicken mixed is also 
good. For a more elaborate dish make the Croquettes with 
TruMes : Cut cold roast chicken into tiny squares ; take same 
quantity of truffles, diced, and mix all with some thick, well- 
seasoned white sauce, into which has been stirred some chopped 
mushrooms, onions, and yolks of two eggs. Make into balls or any 
shape fancied, single-bread and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. 

Chicken Croquettes with Brains. — Chop fine the meat of one 
cold boiled chicken and add to it the finely chopped meat of two 
or three calves' brains, first soaking them in cold salted water one 
hour, then skinning and placing in cold salted water and a little 
vinegar and boiling ten to fifteen minutes ; season the mixture with 
salt, pepper, finely-chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a little grated 
lemon-peel, and add three-C{uarters cup butter. If too stiff add a 
little cream. The softer and more creamy they are the better — just 
so they will hold together ; shape, double-egg-bread and fry. Serve 
with tomato sauce with sliced mushrooms; or, for a Triple Cro- 
quette, prepare as above half a chicken, one sweet-bread boiled till 
tender, and one brain, and to the finely-chopped mixture add a 
well-beaten egg, teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Put in stewpan half piiit cream and add one tablespoon 
corn-starch, first mixed smoothly with a little of the cream, then 
add the chopped and seasoned mixture and stir till it bubbles. 
Take off, and when cold shape and double-egg-bread; fry in basket 
as directed in preface. 

Chicken Croquettes with Siueeth'eads. — Take the white meat 
of a chicken and pound it to a paste with a large boiled sweetbread 
freed from sinews ; beat one egg with a teaspoon flour and four 
tablespoons cream, and add, with salt and pepper, mixing all well 
together; put in a pan and simmer just enough to absorb part of 
the moisture, stirring constantly ; turn out on flat dish and set in 
ice-box to become cold and firm, then roll into small neat shapes 
of cones, rolls or balls, handling carefully, and fry a delicate brown. 
Some add a little grated nutmeg. Or, for a Royal Sweethreaa,^ stir 



302 CROQUETTES. 



two tablespoons butter and one of iionr in stewpan over fire ; when 
it bubbles add little by little one pint cream, then the finely-chopped 
meat from two sweetbreads soaked five minutes in boiling water, 
and one boiled chicken, dark and white meat, seasoned with one 
tablespoon each onion juice (or half teaspoon grated onion) and 
chopped parsley, one teaspoon mace, and salt and pepper to taste. 
Stir till well heated, take from fire, add lemon juice and let cool. 
When cold roll into shape with fine cracker-crumbs and double-egg- 
bread as directed, letting them stand till dry after rolling in 
cracker-crumbs first time, and then using rather coarse bread- 
crumbs for last rolling. Or, for Croquettes with Bread Crivmhs, 
take after chicken and sweetbreads are finely chopped and seasoned 
as above (without the lemon juice) an equal quantity of fine bread- 
crumbs. Place in stewpan as much broth from boiled chicken 
(having saved it all) as will moisten the crumbs, in proportion of 
about half pint to a pint crumbs ; add four tablespoons cream and 
two of butter; when boiling add crumbs till they adhere to spoon. 
Mix with meat and when cool add two well-beaten eggs and mold 
into croquettes ; double-bread and fry as above. 

Crah Croquettes. — Boil two crabs fifteen minutes, remove the 
meat from the shells and chop it coarsely. Melt three tablespoons 
butter in a saucepan, stir into it six tablespoons flour and add to 
this by degrees a half pint milk. When this is brought to the 
boiling point let it boil for two minutes and take from fire. Throw 
into the saucepan the meat from the crabs, add to the mixture one 
grain cayenne, half teaspoon pepper, teaspoon each anchovy aauce 
and salt, and when thoroughly mixed turn it out upon a plate and let 
cool. When cjuite cold form into small rolls three inches in length, 
single-bread and fry ; serve on a folded napkin garnished with 
sprigs of parsley. 

Cream. Croquettes. — Put stick cinnamon one inch long in pint 
new milk in custard kettle. When hot stir in three tablespoons 
sugar, two of corn-starch and one of flour, the two latter rubbed 
smooth with two or three additional tablespoons cold milk ; let 
cook ten or fifteen minutes, stir in beaten yolks of three eggs, 
take out cinnamon and ])lace inner kettle on table and stir in half 
tablespoon butter and half teaspoon vanilla. Pour on a buttered 
platter till one-half inch high; when cold cut in two-inch squares, 
carefully double-bread with cracker-crumbs, having the beaten 
egg slightly sweetened. Fry as directed and place on papered pan 
in oven for five minutes to drain and soften the croquettes. Serve 
hot on a hot dish — this is imperative — first sprinkling with sugar. 
A richer cream may be made by using three tablespoons butter, two 
whole eggs, and four additional yolks. Either is simply delicious. 

Hominy Croquettes. — Pour one and a half pints boiling water 
on a half pint hominy, stir, cover and boil slowly, stirring occasion- 



CROQUETTES. 803 



ally for twenty minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the 
hominy rather stiff; add one and a half gills milk and teaspoon 
salt, stir thoroughly, cover and let stand ten minutes, cooking again 
if necessary, very slowly ; it should be like a tolerably thick batter, 
but not too thick to drop. Beat in a tablespoon butter and pour 
the whole into a shallow pan to cool — if allowed to get cold it will 
be too stiff. Make into balls the size of an egg, single-bread and 
fry. This quantity should make fifteen croquettes. Or, to make 
with cold hominy, work two tablespoons melted butter with two 
cups cold boiled hominy, add two well-beaten eggs and a pinch of 
salt, beat thoroughly and make into balls or rolls. Some add a cup 
milk by degrees and two teaspoons sugar. Single-bread them and 
fry. Serve with syrup or a sweet sauce. 

Lobster Croquettes. — Finely chop the meat of a lobster, work 
in two tablespoons butter — melted, but not hot — then a teaspoon 
each anchovy sauce and lemon juice, a little salt, pepper, mace and 
lemon peel, two raw eggs, and lastly a half cujd bread-crumbs. 
Make into egg shapes, single-bread them and fry quickly. Drain 
thoroughly and serve very hot. These croquettes are delicious. 
The dish should be garnished with slices of lemon. Pass milk or 
cream crackers with them. 

Meat Croquettes. — Take cold chicken, or roast or boiled beef 
or veal, mince very fine, moisten with cold gravy if at hand, or 
moisten well, and add one egg, season with pepper, salt, and an 
onion, or sage ; make into small cakes or rolls, single-bread, and 
fry in lard and butter. One cup fresh boiled rice may be added 
before making into cakes. Or, take one-quarter 
as much cold potato, either mashed or chopped 
-_».^ S ^1"'^^ pounded fine, as cold cooked beef or meat 

Meat croquettos. " of auv klud, cliopped very fine, with gravy or 
cream enough to moisten, add one beaten egg and pepper and 
salt to taste, with a pinch of marjoram ; mix, season, and form into 
balls. Double-bread them and fry in hot lard to delicate brown. 
Drain and serve hot. Bread-crumbs may be used instead of potato, 
using half and half, or any proportion wished ; or one-third meat, 
potatoes and bread-crumbs. For Fresh Meat Croquettes take any 
fresh meat, beef, veal or mutton, and grind through a small meat 
cutter, or chop and pound very thoroughly to a jelly, then add 
quarter as much either bread-crumbs or potatoes ; add egg, etc., and 
finish as above. Or, prepare meat as above, add pepper and salt. 
and one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, moisten with a little 
boiled milk that has cooled, add one egg, a little chopped onion, 
and single-bread and fry in a little butter, or immerse in hot fat. 

Oyster Croquettes. — Take half pint each raw oysters and 
cooked veal, a heaping tablespoon butter, three of cracker-crumbs, 




304 CROQUETTES. 



yolks of two eggs, one tablespoon onion juice; chop oysters and 
veal very fine, soak the crackers in oyster-liquor, and thien mix all 
the ingredients and shape, single-bread in cracker-dust and fry. 
The butter should be softened before mixing. 

Pai'snip Croquettes. — Boil six parsnips till tender ; when cold 
grate and mix with two eggs, season and add flour, and shape into 
balls, single-bread or not, and fry by immersion ; or fry plainly in a 
little oil, drippings or lard. 

Potato Croquettes. — Two cups cold mashed potatoes, two well- 
beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, a teaspoon fine bread- 
crumbs, salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley, or other seasoning 
to taste. Mix well, make into balls, single-bread and fry. Or, melt 
butter in saucepan, add tAVO tablespoons milk, let boil ; then add 
potatoes first pressed through sieve, stir well together till potatoes 
are very hot; take from fire, add pepper, salt and cayenne, drop in 
yolks of two eggs, and stir till the heat of potato dries the egg ; let 
cool and roll into small balls with a little flour to prevent sticking 
to hands, and then single-bread, using the Avhites of the two eggs. 
The yolks give the croquettes a rich yellow color ; if whites were 
added to croquettes they would be difficult to form into balls and 
the color would not be so fine. 

Rice Croquettes. — Put three-fourths pound of rice over the 
fire in a quart milk and simmer slowly twenty minutes ; remove 
from fire, stir in beaten yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon lemon juice, 
saltspoon salt, and three tablespoons sugar ; beat all thoroughly 
together, turn into a bowl and let stand until cool, then make into 
balls ; beat the whites of two eggs until quite light but not to a 
firm froth, dip the balls into this, then into fine bread-crumbs and 
fry. Serve thickly sprinkled with sugar. Or, take one large cup 
cooked rice, half cup milk, one egg, one tablespoon each sugar and 
butter, half a teaspoon salt, slight grating of nutmeg. Put milk on 
to boil, and add rice and seasoning. When it boils up, add the egg, 
Avell beaten, stir one minute, then take off and cool. When cold, 
shape, single-bread, fry, and serve very hot. Any flavoring can be 
substituted for the nutmeg. For nice croquettes without eggs put 
a quarter of a pound of Carolina "head" rice — or nine tablespoons — 
a pint milk, three tablespoons powdered sugar, butter size of a 
Avalnut, and a teaspoon extract vanilla into a saucepan and simmer 
gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be 
cooked until thick and dry, or it Avill be difficult to mold into cro- 
quettes. Beat thoroughly three or four minutes ; turn out on a flat 
tin, and when cold and stiff" form into balls, single-bread tliem and 
fry. A very excellent recipe for croquettes when one has to prepare 
them hastily and has not time to bread them, is one cup cold boiled 
rice, a teaspoon each sugar and melted butter, half teaspoon salt, 



CROQUETTES. 305 



one egg beaten light, eight crackers rolled fine, and a little sweet 
milk ; mix all well together, make into oval cakes and fry in butter 
till a nice yellow broAvn. Syrup, or a nice sweet sauce, should be 
served with rice croquettes. 

Rice Ball Croquettes. — Boil a half pound rice — or eighteen 
tablespoons — in a quart stock, broth or water very gently for half an 
hour, add three tablespoons butter and simmer until quite dry and 
soft. When cold make into balls and fill with the chopped meat of 
a cold fowl, mixed with six tablespoons each white sauce and broth, 
which should be rather thick ; cover over with rice, single-bread 
them and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, 
or a little cream may be stirred into the rice, if liked, before it cools. 
Or, for a dessert dish, boil the rice in milk, Avith three or four table- 
spoons sugar, flavor with lemon peel, vanilla or bitter almonds, and 
make into" balls with a small piece of jelly or jam in the center of 
each, bread them and fry. 

Salsify Croquettes. — "Wash, scrape and boil the salsify till 
tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix Avith pulp a little butter, 
cream, salt, cayenne and lemon juice ; mix ingredients thoroughly 
together to a smooth paste, and set dish in ice-box to get cold ; then 
shape it into small cakes or cones, single-bread and fry crisp and 
brown. 

Venison Croquettes. — Three-fourths pint chopped venison, one- 
fourth pint stale bread, crumbed fine, one cup 
grav}'" thickened with browned flour, one teaspoon 

jelly, a pinch of mace, very little grated lemon ^ ^ 

peel, and chopped parsley to taste. Stir the jelly venison croquettesr 
into the gravy with the seasoning ; Avith this mix the meat and 
crumbs, add the beaten egg, make into rolls, single-bread them and 
fry. Mtitton Croquettes are nice made same Avay. 




306 FRUIT. 



F H XJ I T. 



Fruit is very generally and erroneously regarded as a luxury 
rather than as a valuable, even necessary, article of food, and many 
housekeepers who now stint this supply for economy's sake would 
do better to banish rich pastry entirely from their tables and 
substitute instead an abundance of fruit. Acid fruits furnish 
oxygen in abundance, and consequently assist in the assimilation 
of the carbonaceous elements of food. If the diet is largely made 
up of fats, sweets and starchy foods, which are mostly carbon, a 
great deal of oxj^gen is needed to carry on the necessary chemical 
combustion, and when this is not obtained either by out-of-door 
exercise or the free consumption of fruit, headaches and biliousness 
result, ultimately followed by more serious disorders, such as 
neuralgia, rheumatism, fevers and inflammatory diseases. So that 
for persons engaged in sedentary pursuits it is evident that fruit is 
as necessary as bread and meat. The hydroganic acid found in 
most northern fruits not only stimulates digestion, but is itself a 
nerve food ; peaches, apricots, apples and cherries abound in this 
acid, retaining it in a large degree when dried, and it is contained 
also in almonds, raisins and peach pits, which eaten after meals 
often aid digestion. One or two peach pits eaten regularly thus 
have been known to effect permanent cures of the nervous forms of 
indigestion, and if their value in this respect were generally known 
they would not be so universally wasted. A prominent physician 
has suggested that "Feast on Fruit Freely," be hung as a motto in 
every dining room and taught to every person. Fruit should be 
eaten at meals instead of between meals, and no breakfast, especially, 



FRUIT. , 807 

should be made without it. All fruits intended for immediate 
eating should be gathered before ten o'clock in summer in order to 
obtain their best flavor. And if the market is to be depended upon 
the utmost care should be exercised in its selection. 

California and Florida oranges are the best, a difference of opin- 
ion existing among fruit connoisseurs as to the comparative merits 
of the two, which rival each other so closely that there is perhaps 
but little choice. 

The only really desirable lemons, aside from a few from River- 
side, California, are the Messinas, Palermos and Sicilys, all foreign 
importations, ranking in the order named. Choose the heavy fruit, 
with clean, smooth, thin skin, of a bright yellow color, and the 
medium sized lemon, known among dealers as the "360" is the best. 
The large lemons are more showy and expensive but are apt to be 
dry. 

The banana is the most nutritious of all fruits, and is becoming 
more popular every year. 

The plantain is a tropical fruit of the banana species, of the 
same shape and color but much larger — about two feet longhand 
three inches in diameter — is of a coarse fibre and is not palatable 
raw, but very good fried or baked. It is considered very nutritious 
and Avholesome, and is one of the main products of Honduras. 

The guava is a fruit not generally known in the north, though 
quite a demand exists in southern markets. There are several 
varieties of this fruit, some of which are natives of Asia, some of 
America, and some are common to both. The best of these is the 
white guava, which is abundant in the West Indies ; is rather larger 
than a hen's egg, smooth, yellow and of a peculiar smell. The pulp 
is of a very agreeable taste, sweet and aromatic, and is used at 
dessert and preserved. Gauva jelly comes from the West Indies, 
is highly esteemed, and excellent for giving strength and tone to 
one after a long illness or when digestion is impaired. 

Pineapples when well matured are delicious and wholesome, 
and may be had at almost any season. 

Of the smaller domestic fruits strawberries may be had from 
the last of April until into July. The Crescent is the best variety 
for table use. Cherries ripen in June and the best table varieties 
are the Oxheart, Whiteheart and Blackheart. The sweet "ground 
cherry," as it is called, is a fruit but little known in market though 



308 FRUIT. 

it has been successfully grown in private gardens for many years. 
It is the fruit of a plant which in its general appearance, habits and 
growth resembles the tomato planl The fruit is round as a cherry, 
and about three-fourths of an inch in diameter when taken out of 
the husk in which it is enclosed. When ripe the fruit falls from 
the plant and is better to lie in the husk awhile, when it becomes 
very sweet. It makes most excellent pies, sauce or preserves, and 
requires very little sweetening. When dried with a little sugar it is 
equal to raisins for many purposes. It begins to blossom the last 
of July, and, like the tomato, continues to blossom, set and ripen 
till killed by the frost. Currants include red, white and black 
varieties, the best of which are known as Cherry, Fay's Prolific, 
White Dutch, and White Grape, and choice fruit can be obtained 
in almost any market during July. The ripening season begins in 
June, and the fruit may be had until into August. Of red rasp- 
berries the Cuthbert is the finest of any yet known, though excellent 
fruit is plentiful in its season, which is from the middle of June to 
the middle of August. White raspberries are scarce and highly 
prized. Fine black raspberries, or "black-caps," are common 
everywhere in this country, as are also blackberries, of which the 
Lawton ranks the highest. Gooseberries are not so much used 
fresh at table as they should be, as Avhen perfectly ripe they make 
a delicious dessert. There are a number of varieties, red, yellow, 
green and white, and may be had from May till August. What are 
known as whortleberries and huckleberries are often confounded 
with blueberries, which are much superior though of the same 
species. The former have larger seeds and not so fine flavor as the 
latter, and are not so desirable for any purpose. Blueberries make 
a delicious dessert sprinkled with ice and sugar and served with 
cream as any other fruit. 

Every section has its favorite varieties of melons — the earliest 
shipments coming from the gulf coast islands about June 1st — any 
of which make a wholesome addition to breakfast or dessert. 
The nutmeg melons are very choice and have long ranked highest 
in market, but the Japan melon is a later and still more perfect 
production. It has a rough green rind, and when well ripened, a 
smooth, yellow pulp, sweet and luscious. Watermelons are plenty 
and cheap everywhere. 



FRUIT. 309 

Of the delicious peach only the freestones are suitable for 
table use when raw, but the "clings" are very fine in compotes, 
stews, etc. The vegetable or vine peach is another fruit but little 
known, though very desirable. It grows on a vine similar to a 
muskmelon vine, and ripens in August. It is of about the size of a 
large peach, yellow when ripe, and when peeled, halved and the 
seeds taken out, looks very much like a peach treated in the same 
manner ; it makes very nice pies, and for sweet pickles and pre- 
serves is unsurpassed. Apricots and nectarines are fruits similar 
in character to the peach, without its rough, fuzz}'' coat, and not to 
be compared with it in lusciousness and fine flavor. 

Pears may be obtained from the middle of July until well into 
the winter, the Bartlett being the choicest and the Winter Nellis 
being the best keeper. The fine-grained pears are best for eating. 
There are several good varieties of plums, the California and Oregon 
fruit, sweet, large and fine flavored, leading. 

The apple is, however, the staple American fruit, and no other 
is grown to such perfection or can be so easily preserved through 
the winter. This fruit is palatable and nutritious, easily digested 
when perfectly ripe, so common as to be found on the humblest 
tables, and may be prepared in a great diversity of ways. 

The albuminous fruits, such as cocoa-nuts, filberts, almonds, 
hickory nuts, etc., are really seeds, and contain a large proportion 
of nutritive matter. Cocoa-nuts should be bought cautiously in 
summer, heat being likely to sour the milk. The Jordan sweet 
almond is the best, the Tarragon ranking next, and the California 
Soft Shell being third. The kernels of the sweet almonds are 
served in either a green or a ripe state at dessert, but the bitter 
almonds are little used and only in cookery. 

The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table affords play for the 
most cultivated taste and not a little real inventive genius. Melons, 

oranges, and indeed all kinds of 
fruits, are apiDropriate breakfast dishes, 
and a center piece of mixed fruits 
furnishes a delicious dessert, 
and is an indispensable orna- 
,.,..-,, ment to an elegant dinner- 
table. Large fruits, or large 
bunches of fruits are required, 
and that shown in cut is composed of pears, peaches, apricots, and 




310 FRUIT. 

plums as a kind of raised ground-work, with a magnificent bunch of 
royal-purple grapes on top. The colors of the fruits should blend 
harmoniously and the effect should be fresh and apparently un- 
studied, but they should be firmly placed so that Avhen the dish is 
moved there will be no danger of an avalanche. Green leaves are 
well-nigh indispensable to the preparation of fresh fruit for dessert, 
but there should be just enough and no more ; a judicious peep of 
one here and another there, a tuft of green on this side and on that 
is all that is needed. Too many leaves will utterly spoil the effect 
and render it inartistic. This garnishing with foliage needs especial 
attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-colored fruits with nicely 
arranged leaves is very charming. The gavuish pa?' excellence for des- 
sert is the ice-plant, its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvelous 
effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense of cool- 
ness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry 
and vine-leaves have a pleasing effect ; and for winter desserts the 
bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. Flowers may be very 
gracefully and artistically combined with fruits, and a pyramid of 
grapes made up of Malagas, Delawares and Concords makes a 
showy center piece and a delicious dessert. Rosy-cheeked apples 
in a firm row for a base, and fine yellow pears piled carelessly on 
top, stems upward, with a green leaf here and there,make a pretty dish. 
Apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes hanging 
from the border of the dish in a neglige sort of manner, with a large 
bunch of grapes lying on top of the apples. Strawberries and black 
raspberries in alternate rows, separated by a light fringe of green 
leaves, in cone-like form, is another attractive dish. Peaches and 
ajoricots mingle prettily with green leaves, and plums and green 
gages set one another off advantageously with a judicious addition 
of leaves. Attractive methods of serving melons and small fruits 
are given in recipes that follow. Almonds and raisins are served 
together, the almonds being first blanched, and then thrown in 
among the fruit, Serve large nuts of various kinds together, a 
sufficient portion for the dessert cut open or cracked, and all care- 
fully arranged in a pyramid. Nuts of any kind should be so cracked 
and heaped up. Dates and figs may be put together in a variety of 
ways, the two colors giving a distinct character, and look well with 
a few leaves and tufts here and there. Pine-apples are thought to 



311 

FBUIT. 




PiDe-appl<. 



be iBuch more delicious if sliced and sprinkled with sugar, some 

time before serving, but if wished for a rf^— 

more ornamental dish they should be cut 

as illustrated, and served with a border 

of oranges and cherries or grapes, with 

the tuft in the top and a few green leaves ^^__ _^^ _ 

Rcnttered about. A pin-eapple m the cen- t „„j 

ter of a dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and 

colors, mitd'with pears or rosy-eheeVed apples, all arranged with 

a due regard to color, have a good effect. 

Frozen fruits should stand an hour or so after freezing, and in 
adding wWpped cream beat it in thoroughly with a wooden spoon 
ortdcne Fruit creams are very elegant desserts and are made 
."a^^M t dLble the quantity of cream *<> ^;; f""* P" P; tetten 
obtained by passing through a puree sieve ^""P t°f' ^^"^^^^^y 
taste, and'serve in glasses with whipped -am on top. To moU 
fruits, cook slowly with sufficient sugar to f""" .^J^'^'P"^'";^ ^e 
nouni-and turn into molds. Or to more perfectly pieservetne 
Cm f the fruit make ajelly of a little of the fruit juice and w to 
xtir in the cooked fruit when both are nearly cold, and turn into 
riold One of the most valuable uses of apples is to employ them 
rtuiKtion with other fruit-eith.r to ameliorate the harshness 
of damsons or add to the flavor of blackberries, and they are co ked 

^^^S ^ade by any tinner, is indispensable m preparing 

«=^3 apples for cooking. They are made in two sizes, 

one'forcrS-apples and the o''-^ ^^ ^^f '.;"!|f :^;,„'f,';;^'ld " 

Compotes ol the lignx nebiitu 11 L , lu+io r-nrmnt iellv or 

etc may be handsomely colored by addmg a little ^nrrant je y o 
etc. may DC j ^^.^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ rops of 

juice a little ':^^^^' '^ ^^^ compotes should boil until a 

;rrhnhX^rrsr^-rgU,:ra^^^^^ 



312 , FRUIT. 

and requiring little or no water ; the action of the more gentle and 
uniform heat leaves it in better form, and the syrup is clearer. In 
peeling fruit the use of the paring knife 
with a guard, which prevents the removal 
of any but a thin skin, will not only effect ^"'"^ ''°"^'" 

a saving, but as in most fruits the best part lies nearest the rind 
will also insure a better flavor. Sliced fruits or berries are more 
attractive and palatable sprinkled with sugar al)Out an hour before 
serving, and then with pounded ice just before sending to the table. 
When berries are left, scald for a few minutes ; too much cooking 
spoils the flavor. Some think manv of the sour berries are im- 
proved by slightly cooking them with a little sugar before serving. 
If a part of the berries are badl}'- bruised, gritty, etc. (but not sour 
or bitter), scald and drain them through a fine sieve without press- 
ing them. Sweeten the juice and serve as a dressing for puddings, 
shortcakes, etc., or can for Avinter use. In using molds for fruits 
etc., dip in cold water before filling. 



Apples. — The varieties are almost innumerable, every section 
having its preferred kinds, though there are some general favorites, 
among them the following ; Early Harvests, Red Streaks, Golden 
Pippins, Pound Sweets, Belle Flower, Maiden Blush, Snow Apples, 
Winter Pippins, King's, Spitzenberg, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Genitans, 
Rhode Island Greenings, Roxbury Russets and Wine Saps. The 
last eight varieties are all excellent keepers, the Wine Sap keeping 
the longest, and the Rhode Island Greening is a famous pie apple, 
known. and used everywhere. The others named are all excellent 
eating and cooking apples. Select smooth, mellow, fine-flavored 
ones, wash and wipe dry and serve at dessert heaped in fruit dish 
with a border of green leaves, or with leaves interspersed. A border 
of small fruits makes a very attractive dish. 

Baked Apples. — Whether plainly or elaborately prepared and 
served, baked apples form an always acceptable and appropriate 
dish for breakfast, luncheon, dessert or tea. Sweet apples require 
longer baking than sour. To bake tart apples, wash and cut out the 
blossoms and stems, and in the stem end put some sugar ; bake till 
soft, basting occasionally with the juice in the pan ; serve either 
warm or cold with sweetened cream or milk. Or, bake them 
entirely whole and without paring, pricking with a coarse needle to 

Erevent bursting. Put in baking dish, stems upward, and as they 
egin to warm rub over well with butter. Serve either warm or 



FRUIT. 313 

cold thickly strewn with powdered sugar. For Baked Apples with 
Sj/rup take half a dozen apples, a half pound of sugar, and little 
cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg; peel and core the apples, putthem 
into a deep pie-dish half filled with water, and add above ingre- 
dients. Bake until fruit is soft and brown and syrup thick. AVhen 
cold, place the apples in a glass dish, pouring the syrup over. For 
an extra nice dish, pare and core tart apples, place in pan with a 
little water, put butter and sugar in cavity, sprinkle cinnamon over, 
and bake, basting often; serve with sweetened cream or niilk. 
Or, fill cavities with sugar, a little lemon juice or extract, and som^ 
thin slices lemon rind ; sprinkle sugar over the tops, baste often, 
and serve cold with cream, or with whipped cream, flavored with 
sugar and essence of lemon, or a boiled custard, poured over so as 
to nearly conceal them. For Spiced Apj^Ies jiare and core tart 
apples, fill center with sugar, stick four cloves in the top of each, 
and bake in deep Pie-plates, with a little water. For Stuped Aj^ples 
peel and core large sour apples, put in baking dish with a very little 
water, and for every half dozen take a cup sugar, half teaspoon 
mixed ground spices, pinch of salt, two tablespoons each cracker- 
crumbs and cream, or milk ; mix all well together and fill the core 
cavities, bake until tender but not broken, basting often with the 
juice in the dish ; serve either hot or cold with sweetened cream, or 
place apples in center of a large dish with border of whipped cream 
around, A really elegant dish. Another equally tempting dish 
is Jellied Pippins, made by putting in baking dish a layer of 
pippins or other tender, juicy apples, pared and cored but not 
sliced. Pour over them a syrup of one cup water and a half cup 
sugar, stirred over the fire until sugar is dissolved ; cover closely and 
bake slowly until tender. Take from the oven and let cool witliout 
uncovering. Pour off syrup and fill core cavities with bright fruit 
jelly. Boil the syrup until quite thick, and just before sending the 
apples to table stir into it rich cream well sweetened. Serve with 
apples. For Blushed A2)ples, peel nice, round, tart apples care- 
fully, without coring, place in baking dish in one layer, and make 
a syrup of one pint«vater and four tablespoons sugar; add a few 
cloves, little grated lemon peel and small stick cinnamon ; ])our 
over fruit, cover the dish and bake, being careful not to have them 
break. When done lift carefully to a handsome platter, and with 
a small brush tint delicately on one side with a little beaten currant 
jelly. Strain the syrup and if more than quarter of a pint place 
on the stove and boil it to that quantity. When cold add juice of 
half a lemon and pour around the apples. Another simple way is 
to quarter and core sour apples without paring, put in baking-dish, 
sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, add a little water and bake 
until tender. The proportion of sugar is a gill, and'butter half size 
of an egg, to three pints of apples, and a gill and a half of water. 
To prepare sweet apples for baking, wash and core but do not pare, 



314 FRUIT. 

though some simply cut out the blossom ends, and Avhen sure fruit 
is perfectly sound leave entirely whole, pricking to prevent burst- 
ing. Put them in baking-pan with a little water and let them bake 
very slowly, basting occasionally. They require several hours, and 
when done are of a rich, dark brown color ; if taken out too soon 
they are insipid. Some keep them covered while baking, removing 
the cover just before apples are done, while others first steam them 
until quite tender, then put in oven and bake. Serve with whipped or 
plain sweetened cream or milk. 

Coddled A2)ples. — Wash unripe, dark-green, sour apples, and 
put in porcelain-lined kettle ; cover with water, and boil until ten- 
der ; pour in a sieve and cool, throw away the water that drains off, 
pulp througli the sieve and add sugar to taste. Serve cold, pouring 
the pulp in center of dish ; leave it as it falls, Avithout smoothing, 
and grate a little nutmeg over the top. To be eaten with sugar and 
cream. 

Creamed Apples. — Pare and core the fruit and either scald or 
bake until soft enough to pulp through a colander or sieve ; sweeten 
to taste, and fill glasses three-fourths full ; sprinkle each plentifully 
\tv\A/\iJ\ with powdered cinnamon, and when cold put 
whipped cream over all, heaping until it 
_ stands in peaks. Another nice way of 
fmm» serving is to beat well together two cups 
grated apples, one of sugar, butter size of 
walnut, two tablespoons water, one egg, and a bit of orange or 
lemon peel ; stir all over the fire about ten minutes, and serve 
either warm or cold with whipped cream heaped high over the whole, 
or laid upon each saucer. 

Fried Apjyles. — Select sour apples and quarter and core with- 
out paring ; prepare frying-pan by heating and putting in beef drip- 
pings, lay apples in skin side down, sprinkle with a little brown 
sugar, and Avhen nearly done turn and brown thoroughly. Or, cut 
in slices across the core, about a quarter of •an inch thick, put a 
little butter or drippings in pan, fill with the sliced apples and fry, 
stirring occasionally to prevent burning ; serve in dish sprinkled 
over with sugar. If wanted extra nice, cut a little thicker and fry 
like pancakes, turning when brown ; as fast as fried take out on a dish, 
or platter, sprinkle over with sugar, and place in oven to keep 
hot, proceeding thus with each panful until a sufheient quantity is 
done, taking care not to break the slices. Serve in layers on the 
platter, or neatly placed in individual dishes. Or, for Fried Apples 
with Porl\ fry in its drippings and serve arranged in a row around 
the slices of pork, on platter. A dish of Fned Whole Apples is 
prepared thus : Peel very small but prettily shaped apples, leaving 
stems on. Put into a saucepan of hot butter, and shake over a 




Creamed Apples. 



FRUIT. 



315 




brisk fire until a nice brown ; drain, and arrange neatly, stems up, 
on a thick layer of sugar in a dish, and serve either hot or cold. 
Transcendent "^crabs are verv nice cooked thus. 

Frosted ^«7)Ze5.— Peel pippins, stew in a thin syrup till tender, 
dip in frothed white of egg, and sift powdered sugar thickly over 
them ; put in cool oven to harden, and serve m glass dish. 

Iced ylw/^Ze.-?.— Peel and core one dozen large apples, fill with 
sugar and a little butter and nutmeg; bake until nearly done, jet 
cool and remove to another plate, if it can be done without breaking 
them (if not, pour off the juice). Ice tops and sides with cake ice- 
ing, and brown lightly; serve with cream. 

Jellied Apples.— Voxa, quarter and core nice golden pippins, 
cut into slices, stew in a little water till tender, and beat to a pulp 
Make a thick syrup by boiling a pound and a half \vliite sugar and 
pint of water for two "pounds apples, — ^k«..„. 

skim, and put in the apple pulp and 
juice of three lemons ; simmer gently 
until almost a paste, pour into a wet 
mold, and when cold it will turn 
out a solid iellv. Stick thickly with -.=,,,=^^^. 
blanched almonds and serve sur- -"^'"f ■^•:^'^"'Xl"Xo +!.« 

rounded with whipped cream or a thick custard. Oi, slice the 
apples and put in pudding dish with alternate ayers of sugar ; cover 
^Wth a plate, put a weight on it and bake m slow oven three hours. 
T.et stand until cold and it will turn out a handsome form of shced 
apples imbedded in jelly. 

Marlled A'np^es.-'^^e\^^?lve and core a dozen fine apples, 
place in a pan thickly spread with butter, powder with sugar and 
grated lemon peel, and bake in oven. Nearly fill an ornamental 
mold with apple marmalade, leaving an opening in center ; pile the 
baked apples in a ring upon the marmalade, fill the opening left 
with cuUard, and cover the whole with orange marmalade bet 
mold in pan of hot water to bake, and serve liot Or, pare and core 
six or seven apples leaving them whole ; boil half pint water and 
two tablespoons sugar, put in the app es and simmer gently till 
tender taking care not to let them break. Cover bottom of dish 
with apple marmalade or apple butter, flavored with lemon, and 
place ipples on this with piece of butter on each, and a few spoon- 
fuls apricot jam or marmalade. Set the dish m oven ten minutes, 
then sprinkle over with powdered sugar and brown „with sala- 
mander. 

Merinqued Apples.— ?vii one quart water and two large cups 
granulated sugar in saucepan. Have ten_ apples pared and cored, 
and as soon as sugar and water boils, put in as many apples as will 



316 FRUIT. 

cook without crowding. Simmer gently until fruit is cooked 
through, turning when one side is done. Drain and cool on a dish; 
pare, quarter and stew six more apples in one cup water. Turn 
stewed apples into syrup left from cooking the others, add grated 
rind and juice of one lemon, and simmer twenty minutes or until a 
smooth marmalade is formed, then let cool. Put one quart milk 
in custard-kettle, reserving half a cup for mixing one tablespoon 
corn-starch, which stir in when milk is hot, and let cook five 
minutes. Beat yolks of six eggs and whites of two with half cup 
powdered sugar; gradually pour boiling milk on this, return to 
kettle and cook three minutes, stirring all the time, add salt, turn 
into bowl, and let cool ; place the whole apples in a mound on dish 
using the marmalade to fill up the spaces between the a])ples. Beat 
four whites to a stiff froth with four tablespoons powdered sugar, 
spread over apples, and stick one pint blanched almonds into it, 
cutting each one in two or three strips as in Jellied Apples. Brown 
slowly in the oven and let cool. Serve with the custard seasoned 
vdth lemon poured around the base of meringue. 

Steamed Apples. — Take smooth, rich-flavored apples, wash and 
remove cores, leaving fruit whole. Put in a steamer and cook until 
perfectly tender. The juice in pan may be stewed down and 
poured over the apples ; serve either warm or cold with sugar and 
cream. Sweet apples are especially nice steamed, and if liked can 
be browned in oven ten or fifteen minutes, and when placed in oven 
put on each apple a tablespoon of meringue as above. 

Stewed Apples. — Take nice, smooth, sweet apples and remove 
cores without paring. Put into a covered saucepan with cold water, 
heat gradually and simmer gently until done. It should take a half 
day to cook them properly without breaking. Set away to get cold 
before taking out. Served with sweetened cream they are delicious. 
If tart apples are to be stewed put on with enough water to cover, 
a half cup vinegar and two cups sugar, and cook as above. For a 
very nice dish called Apple Transparency, stew six large peeled 
and cored tart apples slowly until tender, in a syrup of half pound 
sugar and pint water, in which the rind of a lemon has been 
boiled. When doiie take out in glass dish and add to the syrup a 
half ])ackage of gelatine dissolved in a gill cold Avater ; stir until 
gelatine is melted, strain into a bowl, stir in six drops cochineal 
coloring, and when cold cut into cubes and place among the apples, 
interspersing spoonfuls of a meringue of Avhites of two eggs and two 
tablespoons sugar or whipped cream. 

Apple Calies. — Boil apples until they will pulp easily, mix 
smoothly with well-beaten eggs, a little cream, some powdered 
white sugar, and bread-crumbs enough to form into small cakes ; fry 
as fritters, and when a nice brown color take up. When cold squeeze 



FRUIT. 317 

some lemon juice over them, lay upon each a gpoonful of thick 
cream, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. 

Apple Chocolate. — Boil a pound grated chocolate and six 
ounces white sugar in a quart new milk ; beat yolks of six eggs 
and whites of two, and when the chocolate has come to a boil take 
it from the fire and gradually add the eggs, stirring well all the 
time. Have ready a deep dish with a good layer of cooked and 
pulped apples in the bottom, sweetened to taste and seasoned with 
powdered cinnamon ; pour the chocolate gently over, and place the 
dish in a saucepan of boiling water. "When the cream is set firmly 
it is done ; sift powdered sugar over it, and glaze with a salamander 
or red-hot shovel. This preparation is not only very delicious, but 
exceedingly salutary, on account of the apples being a corrective to 
the too great richness of the chocolate. 

Apple Comj^otes. — Compotes are very easily prepared, and are 
said to be the most wholesome manner of serving fruits for those 
who cannot eat raw fruits or the richer preparations requiring a 
larger proportion of sugar. Fresh fruits are much more delicious 
served raw, but the compote is far better than ordinary stewed fruit, 
makes a nice dessert dish that can be hastily prepared, and a])ples 
are very acceptable served thus. A simple way of preparing is to 
make a syrup of a pound sugar and pint water, boiled together 
fifteen minutes and carefully skimmed. The fruit is then cooked 
in this syrup, taken out when tender, and the syrup reduced almost 
to a jelly by longer boiling, and poured over the fruit when cool. 
To avoid danger of scorching many prefer to first steAV the fruit 
until tender, but not broken, in clear water, then take it out and add 
sugar to the water and boil to a nice syrup, put in the fruit again 
and simmer gently until thoroughly penetrated with the syrup, then 
take out into glass dish ; boil the syrup until very rich and thick, 
strain it, let cool, and pour it over the fruit. For an excellent com- 
pote of apples, peel and core twelve medium-sized apples, throwing 
them into cold water as fast as peeled to prevent darkening, and 
proceed after either of the above methods. Any flavoring liked 
may be added to the syrup — ^juice of lemon 
and a little of the rind is nice — and if wanted 
to cook very quickly cut the apples into — -^__ 
halves, thirds or quarters, when they will be Ap,,ie 

done in from ten to fifteen minutes. The fruit may be colored pink 
if liked, by adding fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. Or 
cook a half quince, cut into four pieces, until tender in a pint and a 
half water, then add the sugar for the syrup, and put in tlie ap])les, 
taking up the quince with them. This will color the comjiote 
beautifully, and also flavor nicely. Some cook sliced lemon and 
raisins in the syrup and pour over the apples. Pass plain or 
whipped sweetened cream with the dish. For a handsome Sturi'ed 




318 FRUIT. 

Compote select large, fine pippins of equal size, pare, take out cores, 
and cook until nearly done in sj'rup as above; drain and bake a 
few moments in a quick oven. Wlien done, and still hot, fill the 
core cavities with peach marmalade, and roll each apple in the jelly 
made by boiling down the syrup, which will give them a beautiful 
gloss. Serve in a pyramid on a dish with plain or whipped cream 
around the base. Or form into a dome and cover with a meringue 
of beaten whites of eggs and sugar, sticking sweet almonds cut into 
four lengths into the top in regular form, and put in the oven to 
brown. Or pour among the apples, before putting over the 
meringue, a marmalade of apples or boiled rice. Another method 
of serving is to prepare apples and syrup as above, put in the fruit 
and let cook until clear, remaining whole. Remove the fruit to a 
glass bowl ; dissolve one-third box gelatine in a half cup hot 
water, and stir briskly into the syrup, first taking off the fire. Then 
strain over the apples, and set in cool place to cool. When cold 
heap whipped cream oVer it. Some add sliced lemons to the syrup 
and serve with a slice of the lemon on each apple. Or, for a Baked 
Compote take golden pippins, or any similar small apples, pare and 
core, put into a wide jar with a cover, and for two quarts apples 
add rind of a lemon cut thin, and strew in a half pound sugar. 
Cover and set in slow oven several hours. Serve hot or cold. For 
another elegant compote take smooth, prettily shaped apples and 
put into saucepan with enough water to cover ; add a tablespoon 
powdered cochineal and simmer gently ; when fruit is done take 
out and put into dessert dish. Make a s\'rup of the liquor by 
adding white sugar and juice of two lemons ; when boiled to a jelly 
put it with the apples, decorating the dish with lemon peel cut into 
thin strips. 

Apple Cream. — Peel, core and cut three pounds of apples in 
thin slices and put in porcelain-lined kettle, with a half pound 
sugar, grated rind and juice of a lemon, and a teaspoon ground 
ginger ; simmer slowly until apples are tender enough to rub 
through a sieve. Scald a quart cream, beat in the apple pulp, and 
serve either warm or cold. Any berries or soft fruit may be served 
in the same way, pulping through a sieve without cooking. 

Apple Fool. — Bake good cooking apples (not sweet), remove 
the pulp with a spoon, and beat it up with a little powdered sugar. 
To a cupful add the yolk of an egg and" a small sponge cake ; mix 
together and rub through a sieve. 

Apple Fortress. — Take good, firm apples, that will not fall to 
pieces when cooked, and cut into oblong shapes two inches long 
and one inch thick ; put into a dish, sprinkle them well with white 
sugar, cover closely and let stand overnight. Next day place 
carefully in preserving kettle or pan with more sugar and water 



FRUIT. 319 

and Bhrecl lemon peel, and cook gently over slow fire until done, 
but take care not to do them too soft. When cold build the pieces 
in shape of a tower with castellated top, fill inside with lumps of 
jelly, and on top place candied cannon, surrounded with a "ditch" 
of whipped cream, A really elegant dessert. Begin serving from 
top. 

Apple Porridge. — Boil slices of white bread in pint milk; 
when soft take ofl:'fire, sweeten with sugar, and add teaspoon ginger; 
pour in a bowl and gradually stir in the pulp of three or four nicely 
baked apples. 

Apple Sago. — Pare six apples and punch out cores, fill holes 
with cinnamon and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to a cup 
sugar ; take one tablespoon sago to each apple ; wash thoroughly 
and let soak an hour in water enough to cover apples, pour water 
and sago over apples, and bake an hour and a half. 

Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do 
not cut to pieces easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plen- 
ty of sugar. Cover closely and stew an hour or more. The addition 
of the sugar at first preserves the pieces whole. If they are pre- 
ferred finely mashed stir occasionally while cooking and add sugar 
after they are done. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, or cloves, if 
liked, and some stir in piece of fresh butter. Or, for Baked ApjAe 
Sauce, pare, core and quarter tart apples, put a layer in earthen 
baking-dish, add lumps of butter, sprinkle with sugar and a little 
cinnamon, then a layer of apples, etc., till dish is full ; bake till soft. 
Or, omit butter and cinnamon, and add quarter cup water and half 
cup silgar to four quarts j^repared apples ; or two or three times as 
much water may be used. For Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter 
and core apples sufficient to fill a gallon porcelain-kettle, put in a half 
gallon boiled cider and let boil. Wash the apples and put in kettle, 
place a plate over them, and boil steadily but not rapidly until 
thoroughly cooked, testing by taking one from under plate with a 
fork. Do not remove plate until done, or the apples will sink to 
the bottom and burn. Apples may be cooked in sweet cider in 
same way. For an Imitation Cider Apple Saxice., pare, quarter 
and core the apples, strew sugar over and let stand overnight. 
Then stew in their own juice, and they will have a nice flavor and 
color. 

Apple Snow. — Pare, core, and bring to boil in as little water as 
possible six large, tart apples, cool and drain on a sieve, add two 
tablespoons sugar, beat to a froth and add the well-whipped whites 
of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoons powdered sugar, or an 
egg and two-thirds tablespoon sugar to each apple if wanted very 
light and elaborate ; beat thoroughly until a Btiff' snow, flavor Avith 



320 FRUIT. 

lemon or vanilla or add the grated rind of a lemon ; pile the snow 
in a rough heap or pyramid and ornament with bits of bright 
colored jelly, or encircle with a row of candied orange or lemon 
rings ; serve with sweetened cream, or make custard of yolks, sugar, 
and a pint milk, place in a dish, and drop the froth on it in large 
flakes. For Apple Meringue put above mixture into a deep glass 
dish, cover with the whipped whites of three eggs and three table- 
spoons sugar, and brown delicately in oven, or with salamander. 

Apple Tapioca. — Soak half a pint tapioca several hours, or 
overnight, in half a pint cold water; cover the bottom of a baking 
dish with pared and cored tart apples ; till cores with sugar and 
bake until tender. Put the tapioca on the fire with the rind of a 
lemon cut thin, and half a pint cold water ; when boiling add 
another half pint of boiling water, a gill of sugar, and the juice of 
the lemon ; boil a moment, pour it over the apples, and bake half 
an hour or longer. Or, soak half teacup tapioca in one and a half 
pints cold water on back of stove as above ; then place on the stove 
and cook till clear, sweeten, and season with a little cinnamon ; 
then place a layer of pared, apples, cut in quarters or eighths, in 
baking-dish, then a layer of tapioca, then apples, etc., till all are 
used, and bake as above. Or, for Pine-apples and Tapioca take 
either fresh or canned pine-apples, chop fine, and add as above, oi 
mix with the cooked tapioca and bake. 

Ajyple Toast. — Peel and carefully core the apples. Cut slices 
of stale bread about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut again to a 
round shape about the size of the apples, with a paste-cutter. But- 
ter each slice on both sides and place an apple upon it. Butter 
b:i king-dish or pan, put in the apj)les and bread, fill the core cavity 
will) cream and sugar, or sugar alone, placing on top of sugar a 
piece of butter size of hazelnut, and set in warm but not quick 
oven. When about half done fill tlie hole again with the cream 
and sugar, dust with cinnamon and finish cooking. Serve warm. 
Or, halve the apples, hollow out the cores and place the halves upon 
the rounds of bread, fill the core cavity of each with good thick cream 
an<l strew sugar thickly over bread and fruit. Place in slow oven 
and renew the cream and sugar as they dissolve. When done 
arrange neatly in a dish, pour over any juice left in pan and serve 
warm; or place cored side of apples next bread, brush with a little 
meltecl butter, dust with sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon, and 
bake as above. 

Apple TriiJc. — Scald and pulp through a sieve as many apples 
as will cover the dish to be used to the depth of two or three inches, 
add grated rind of half a lemon and sugar to taste, and place in 
dish. ]\Iix a half pint each milk and cieam and yolk of an egg, 
and sweeten to taste. Set over fire and scald, stirring constantly, 



FRUIT. 321 

but do not boil. Let stand till cold, put it over apples and finish 
with "whipped cream. 

Aj^ples and Grapes.— ^iroiw the juice from ripe grapes, adding 
pound sugar to each quart, and boil until reduced one-half. Put 
into this some golden pippins, pared, cored and quartered; simmer 
very slowly until apples are done, and serve either warm or cold in 
glass dish, or seal for future use in cans. 

Apples and Quinces.— Take a quantity of golden pippins, cut 
into quarters, but do not pare, put into saucepan of boiling water 
and simmer until a jelly. To each pound jelly add a pound 
sugar ; then cut two or three quinces into quarters, and cook them 
slowly in the syrup until tender. Serve in glass dishes for dessert. 

Apricot Comjwte. — Make a syrup by boiling together one 
pound sugar and one and a half pints water fifteen minutes, care- 
lully removing all scum ; put in twelve apricots, simmering until 
tender, taking care thnt they do not break; take out carefully, 
arrange on glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over the 
apricots, and when cold serve. For Peach Compote take fifteen 
peaches, peel and stone them, cook ten minutes and take out as 
above, boiling the syrup two or three minutes to reduce it before 
l)ouring over. A few kernels give a nice flavor. To prepare, crack 
tlie stones, take out kernels and blanch as almonds. A Damson 
Compote is made .same as apricot, taking one quart fruit. If a 
White Compote is wished of peaches or apricots, cut the fruit in 
two, take out stones, throw them into boiling water (a very little 
lemon added) for two minutes, then plunge in cold or ice Avater, 
taking out immediately. This makes them white. Peel and finish 
as above. For a Red Compote add four tablespoons red currant 
juice, or a tablespoon jelly, beaten smooth and thinned with a cup of 
water. 

Bananas. — There are two varieties, the yellow and red ; the 
former has a richer, finer flavor, and ranks higher in market 
than the red, although the latter is very delicious, being more solid 
and nutritious, and by some prized more highly. The choicest 
bananas are the Aspinwall Lady Fingers, grown on the Isthmus of 
Panama. They are of a pale lemon color, medium size, not round, 
but having a sharp ridge running the whole length of the fruit, of 
fine, firm flesh, and rare flavor. The ripening season begins in 
■January, is at its height in March, and the supply diminishes 
towards midsummer, though in some localities the fruit ripens con- 
stantly, and may thus be had the year round. Tliey are often 
served whole on a margin of green leaves, the colors contrasting 
very prettily, or mixed with oranges, the red ones being especially 
used thus ; but it is considered by some much better taste to peei 



322 FRUIT. 

them, and, if very large, cut in two lengthwise, or crosswise if long 
and not very large round. Serve neatly placed on a napkin in fruit 
dish. 

Baked Bananas. — Peel a dozen bananas and split in halves 
lengthwise. Lay these strips closely in baking-pan, strew sugar 
and bits of fresh butter over, and grate in a little nutmeg. Bake in 
a moderate oven about twenty minutes. They should come out 
glazed, and if not syrup enough in the pan, a little should be mixed 
in a cup to baste them with. Serve as a last course with cake and 
milk. 

Fried Bananas. — Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, 
sprinkle with sugar, and serve. Thus prepared they make a nice 
dessert. The bananas must be quite ripe. 

Bananas and Cream. — Slice the bananas crosswise — not too 
thin — scatter powdered sugar over, and before it dissolves squeeze 
the juice of several oranges over them, or oranges may be cut up 
and mixed with them, or the bananas may T3e served with cream 
and sugar alone. Very nice for tea. They make an agreeable 
dessert with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
poured over them. A tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and stirred 
into the cream, gives a little body to it. Serve with sponge cake. 

Blackherry Triffe. — Stew one quart blackberries with one 
([uart sugar and a half cup Avater. They should cook only fifteen 
minutes. When cold, serve with powdered cracker and sugar and 
cream. The cracker and berries should be in separate dishes. 

Cherries. — This fruit may be very elegantly served for dessert 
by picking in clusters on the twigs with a few leaves on each. An 
hour before dinner place them in the refrigerator, and when taken 
out they will be found not only refreshingly cool, but covered with 
moisture like dew. Or treat the clusters simply in same way. 
If served plain send to table heaped on saucers or glasses of 
])Ounded ice, one for each guest, and pass sugar with them. Or 
jirrange in pyramid on a glass dish. Both red and yellow varieties 
hliould be obtained for this if possible. 

Cherry Compote. — Secure red cherries because of their piquant 
flavor, and be sure to have only perfect fruit. Do not stem them, 
but shorten the stems with the scissors. Put the fruit in a preserv- 
ing kettle with white granulated sugar in the proportion of a 
(|uarter pound sugar to every pound fruit, and add juice of one 
lemon to same quantities ; put over slow fire and boil three 
minutes, removing all scum and shaking occasionally ; take out 
fruit with a spoon, put in a bowl and carefully drain off all syrup, 
which should be reduced by further boiling. To thicken the syrup 




FRtrrr. 323 

a little isinglass or gelatine may be used, but it is better without, as 
the thin jelly of pure syrup is beautifully transparent. Pour this 
syrup or jelly into a dish to cool, and when ready to serve the com- 
pote pile the cherries in a pyramid and turn the syrup over them. 
Or, prepare cherries the same, take four tablespoons sugar and a 
pint water to one quart cherries, put in a saucepan, let boil, and 
skim; add a half cup raspberry juice, put in the cherries and cook 
until tender ; pile them on a glass dish, reduce the syrup to a thin 
jelly, and when cool pour over them. 

Cherry Sauce. — To every pound well ripened, stoned cherries 
add a half pound sugar, melted and poured over boiling hot. Put 
on ice till cold and serve. 

Currants. — Select fine large red and white currants and arrange 
in alternate rows in pyramidal form on glass dish, placing the red 
on bottom, with a border of green leaves outside, as 
shown in cut. Sprinkle liberally throughout with 
sugar, set in refrigerator until ready to serve, when 
dust fine granulated sugar thickly over, which will 
cling to the currants, that will have become damp in the 
Currant Pyramid, icc box, aud glve a prctty frost-like effect. Rasjiberries 
may be served in same way, either red and white, red and black, or 
alternate layers of each. Currants are also nice served in large fine 
clusters heaped on fruit dish, always cooling on ice before sending 
to table ; or intersperse with layers of raspberries or other seasonable 
fruits. 

Gooseberry Compote. — Stew one quart berries, which should 
not be very ripe, and pour boiling water over them ; take out and 
plunge them into cold water, with which a tablespoon of vinegar 
has been mixed, which will help preserve the color of the fruit. 
Boil together half pint sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, 
skimming well ; drain the gooseberries and put them in, simmer 
genthMintil nicely pulped and tender, without being broken ; then 
take out on glass dish, boil the syrup two or three minutes, pour 
over the gooseberries, and serve cold. Compote of Oreen Gages is 
made the same, carefully stemming and stoning the fruit, which 
will cool^ in one-third the time required for gooseberries. 

Gooseberry Fool. — Stem the gooseberries and cut off tops ; put 
in ajar with two tablespoons water and a little sugar, set the jar in 
a saucepan of boiling water, and let boil until the fruit is soft enough 
to mash ; or simply stew the fruit, pulp through a colander or sieve, 
and to every pint add a pint milk, or equal quantities milk and cream. 
Sweeten well or it will not be eatable, and in mixing add the milk 
very gradually ; serve in a glass dish or in small glasses. This old- 
fashioned dish is very delicious when well made, and if properly 




324 FKUIT. 

sweetened a very nice relish for children. A boiled custard may be 
stirred in instead of the cream, and a less quantity of cream may be 
used — a gill to a quart of pulp — stirring in carefully just before 
serving. 

Gooseberry Triiie. — Put a quart gooseberries into a jar, sweeten 
to taste, and boil until reduced to pulp. Put this 
in the bottom of a high glass dish, pour over it 
a pint of boiled custard, and when cold cover 
with whipped cream. The cream should be 
whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as 
it will then be much firmer and more solid. Gar- 
nish in any manner liked, Avith bits of jelly, or 
sliced almonds, etc. 

Grapes. — The finest native ones are the Con- ooosebcrr mfle 

cords, Delawares and Catawbas, the former of 
which is generally considered most desirable, and ripens about 
August 1st. The Delawares are marketed about the same time, and 
the Catawbas a little later. Later varieties come into market the 
last of September, and may be had during October. California 
grapes are shipped during August, September and October, tbe 
finest varieties of which are the Tokays, White Muscats, Rose Peru 
and Black Morocco. These are very show}', but not of so fine a 
flavor as the fruit from the middle states, "Wild grapes are abun- 
dant from September to November, but are not suited to table use 
when fresh. Foreign grapes may be had at the fruit stores througb- 
out the Avinter. The Malaga leads all foreign grapes, and comes 
packed in cork-dust, which is a non-conductor of heat and absorbent 
of moisture, and so is always in good condition. If left in the 
cork-dust this fruit will keep three months in prime order. Wben 
used rinse well in ice-water, and place on a glass dish or dishes sur- 
rounded by fine ice ; if plentiful do not divide clusters, but serve a 
bunch for each guest. 

Jellied Grapes. — A very delicate dish is made of one-third cup 
rice, two cups stemmed grapes, half cup Avater, and tAvo tablespoons 
sugar. Sprinkle rice and sugar among the grapes, while placing in 
a deep dish ; pour on the AA'ater, cover closely and simmef tAvo hours 
slowly in the oven. SerA'e cold at dessert. 

Florida Grape-Fruit. — This is a new, clear-skinned, lemon- 
colored fruit, about three times as large as an orange, and bearing a 
general resemblance to that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, but its 
juicy pulp is enclosed in a tough Avhite membrane of intensely bitter 
taste ; Avhen this membrane is remo\'ed the fruit is delicious. To 
prepare it for tlie table, cut the skin in sections and peel it off"; sep- 
arate the sections as you would those of an orange, and holding 



FRUIT. 325 

each one by the ends, break it open from the center, disclosing the 
pulp ; tear this out of the bitter white membrane which covers the 
sections, carefully removing every part of it ; keep the pulp as un- 
broken as possible, and put it into a deep dish with a plentiful 
sprinkling of fine sugar. Let it stand three or four hours, or over- 
night, and then use the fruit. It is refreshing and wholesome. 

Oranges. — The finest California oranges are known as the Cali- 
fornia Riverside varieties, including the Naval s, smooth, sweet, lus- 
cious fruit, without seeds, the Mediterranean Sweets, and the Seed- 
lings. The Paper-rind is also a California Orange, small, but sweet, 
and very desirable for table use. Of the Florida fruit the Indian River 
oranges rank first, the choicest of which is the Florida Bright. The 
Florida oranges appear in market in December, and may be had in 
their perfection until about February 1st, after which date they be- 
come too ripe and spongy to be desirable. The California fruit be- 
gins ripening in December and may be had until late in June in 
excellent condition. The summer market is thus principally sup- 
plied by foreign importations, of Avhichthe Messinas and Rodas are 
the best varieties, though neither are so fine as the fruits above 
mentioned, and are liable to be dry and pulpy. The Seville orange 
is a bitter, acid fruit, used to some extent in cooking, but unfit for 
trade use. When buying oranges select from unwrapped fruit, if 
possible, those that are solid and heavy, with a smooth, thin skin, 
of a deep yellow red color. To remove any stale flavor absorbed 
from contact with decayed fruit, or from the odor of the box, wash 
lightly with a sponge in very cold water, dry with a soft towel with- 
out rubbing, wrap again in clean, soft paper, and put away until 
wanted for use in a closely-covered tin box or stone crock or a drawer, 
in a cool, dry closet. Lemons should be cared for in same manner. 
To serve oranges whole for breakfast or dessert cut the peel in six or 
eight equal pieces, making the incisions from the stem downward ; 
peel each piece down about half way, and bend it sharply to the 
right, leaving the peeled orange apparently in a cup, from which it 
is removed without much difficulty. For an elegant center piece 
pile the oranges so prepared in a pyramid on a high fruit dish with 
bananas and white grapes, if obtainable. They are also very nice 
peeled and sliced with seeds and pith removed, and sprinkled with 
sugar two or three hours before serving for either dessert or tea. 
Some strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. 

Orange Compote. — Peel six oranges, remove as much of the 
white pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without 
breaking the thin skin enclosing them. Make a syrup of half pound 
sugar and scant three-fourths pint Avater, 
skimming well, adding the rind of the orange 
_^^ ,,„.. cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup 
Orange Compote.'"'"' has bccn wcll sklmmcd and is quite clear, 

put in the pieces of orange and simmer five minutes. Take out 




826 FRUIT. 

carefully with a spoon without breaking them and arrange on a 
glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick ; let 
cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and serve cold. For a very 
delicious compote, peel and remove the pulp of eight large oranges, 
divide as above, squeeze the juice from four more over three- 
quarters pound sifted sugar and the rind of one orange cut in strips, 
removing all the pulp. Put the pieces of orange in the syrup, boil 
about six minutes, drain, boil the syrup until it thickens, dish fruit 
and pour the syrup over. Or, peel and cut the oranges into slices 
crosswise, and remove seeds. Make a thick syrup as directed in 
apple compote, and, Avhen cold, pour it over the sliced oranges, 
which are not cooked. 

Orange Float. — One quart water, juice and pulp of two lemons, 
coffee-cup sugar ; Avhen boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, 
let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over 
four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the 
beaten whites of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. 

Orange Fool. — Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three well- 
beaten eggs, a pint cream, and a little nutmeg and cinnamon and 
sweeten to taste. Set over a slow fire and stir till thick as cream, 
but do not let boil ; then pour into a dish and set by till cold. An 
excellent dessert dish. 

Orange Snoiv. — Mix the juice of four oranges and grated peel 
of one with a large cup powdered sugar and a package gelatine, 
soaked in cup cold water ; let stand an hour, add a pint boiling 
water, stirring until clear, and strain through a coarse cloth, wring- 
ing hard. When cold whip in stiflfly frothed whites four eggs, place 
in a mold, wbich was first rinsed with water, and let stand six or 
eight hours. Some add the juice and grated peel of a lemon. 

Peaches. — The first crop marketed is from Mississippi, picked 
about May 1st. Tennessee peaches may be had in June, and Cali- 
fornia fruit appears about July 1st. The finest peaches, however, 
are grown in Michigan and Maryland, and are marketed during 
August, the supply lasting until into November. The California 
fruit is the handsomest, but not of so rich a flavor as the fine 
Yellow Crawfords from Michigan, the finest peaches obtainable, 
though some prefer the white-meated varieties, of Avhich the Old- 
mixon Freestone and early York are the best. 

If large and perfect do not slice, but serve them whole ; wipe or 
brush off the feathery coating, arrange them neatly on tbe fruit-dish 
and decorate with fresh green leaves and flowers. Sliced peaches 
turn a rusty brown color if allowed to stand after cutting them, and 
should be served as soon as prepared ; if necessary for them to 
stand, cover with whipped cream properly sweetened. A little lemon 



FKUIT. 327 

juice brings out the flavor of all preparations of peaches, and may 
be squeezed over sliced peaches before serving. Peaches for stew- 
ing, baking, etc., may be peeled or wiped with a cloth, or brushed. 
The blanched kernels cooked with them give a much finer flavor. 

Baked Peaches. — Wash the peaches (they need not be fully 
ripe), put them in a deep dish, sprinkle well with sugar, cover, and 
bake until perfectly tender. Serve with the syrup in jDan poured 
over. Or, take equal parts rich sliced periches, green corn pulp, and 
water. Sweeten to taste, place in baking dish, and bake twenty 
minutes. 

Frozen Peaches. — Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe and juicy 
peaches, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and half freeze, which will 
take about an hour ; remove just before serving, and sprinkle with 
a little more sugar. Canned peaches and all kinds of berries may 
be prepared in same way. Or, boil heaping pint sugar, and quart 
water together twelve minutes ; then add one quart of either canned 
or fresh peaches, and cook twenty minutes longer. Rub through 
a sieve, and when cool freeze. Take out beater and stir in pint 
cream, whipped. Cover and let stand an hour or so. Frozen Apri- 
cots are prepared same way. 

Frozen Peaches and Cream. — Peel and quarter fresh peaches, 
add sugar and cream, making very sweet. First place some quar- 
ters in bottom of mold, then fill and surround Avith ice and salt, 
freeze the mass solid without stirring. Turn out and serve. 

Jellied Peaches. — Cut a dozen peaches in halves, peel and take 
out stones, crack half the seeds, and blanch kernels ; make a clear 
boiling syrup of one pound white sugar, and into it put the peaches 
and kernels, boil very gently ten minutes, take out half the peaches, 
boil the rest ten minutes longer, and take out all the peaches and 
kernels; mix with syrup left in kettle the strained juice of three 
lemons, and an ounce isinglass dissolved in a little water and 
strained ; boil up once, fill a mold half full, let stand until "set,'' 
add p^rt of the peaches and a little more jelly, and when this is 
"set," add the rest of the peaches, and fill up the mold with jelly. 
An elegant ornament. Set the jelly in pan of hot water to keep 
from hardening until all is used. 

Peach Float. — Take the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth ; stew six peaches until soft enough to mash, sweeten to taste 
and beat in the whites of eggs. Serve cold heaped in a dish. Apple^ 
Pear and Quince Floats made same. 

Peach Meringue. — Put a quart milk on to boil, omitting a half 
cup with which to moisten two tablespoons corn-starch; when the 
milk boils add the moistened corn-starch, stir till thick, then remove 



328 FRUIT. 

from fire, add one tablespoon butter, and allow the mixture to cool ; 
then beat in yolks of three eggs till the whole seems light and 
creamy; add a half^up powdered sugar. Cover the bottom of a 
well-buttered baking-dish with two or three layers rich juicy peaches, 
pared, halved and stoned, sprinkle over three tablespoons powdered 
sugar ; pour the custard carefully over them and bake twenty min- 
utes, then spread with the light-beaten whites, well sweetened, and 
return to oven till a light .brown. To be eaten warm with a rich 
sauce, or cold with sweetened cream. 

Peach Tapioca. — Soak half-pint tapioca in cold water two or 
three hours, set on stove until it boils, and sweeten to taste. Peel 
and slice ripe peaches to nearly fill a baking-dish, sprinkle with 
sugar, pour the tapioca over them, and bake slowly one hour. Serve 
with cream and sugar. 

Peaches and Cream. — The harder kinds of peaches should be 
chopped to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar two or 
three hours before serving. Allow about four ounces sugar to a 
quart. Soft peaches after peeling are best eighthed or sliced. A 
nice way to serve is in large glass bowls ornamented with quarters 
of red or yellow peaches neatly placed, and a pitcher of cream with 
each bowl separately. If served individually in saucers, pour cream 
over only as they are dished up. 

Peaches hi Marmalade- — Pare and halve four fine, ripe peaches 
and let them jiist simm.er from five to eight minutes in a syrup 
made with third of a pint water and three ounces white sugar, boiled 
together fifteen minutes ; lift out carefully into a deep dish, pour 
about half the syrup over them, and into the remaining half throw 
a couple of pounds more quite ripe peaches and boil to a perfectly 
smooth dry pulp or marmalade, with as much powdered sugar as 
the fruit may require, adding a little lemon juice. Lift the other 
peaches from the syrup, and reduce it by very quick boiling, more 
tl\an half Spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a dish, arrange 
the peaches symmetrically around it, and fill all the spaces between 
with the marmalade ; place half of a blanched peach kernel in each, 
pour the reduced syrup equallv over the surface, and form a border 
around the dish with Italian macaroons, or, candied citron, sliced 
very thin, and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. The better 
to preserve their form, the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and 
then boiled tolerably tender in the syrup before they are pared or 
split. Half a pint water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must 
then be allowed for them. If any of those used for the marmalade 
should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it through a sieve, 
when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy. 

Pears. — The California Bartletts are the finest to be had in the 
world, and are in market from July till October. The New York 



FRUIT. 329 

Bartletts rank next, and have fully as good a flavor, but are not so 
large. The New York Duchess is also a choice pear — very fine for 
canning — and the Seckle, raised in both New York and California, 
is best for pickling. The Pound pear is the largest, but good only 
for canning. To serve whole, wash, if necessary, wipe dry, and ar- 
range in glass dish with green leaves ; the addition of oranges has 
a pleasing effect. 

Baked Pears. — Bake washed, unpceled pears in pan with 
only a teaspoon or two of water ; leave stems on, sprinkle with 
sugar, and serve with their own syrup. Or, for a more elaborate 
dish, pare and cut twelve pears into halves, and, should they be 
very large, into quarters ; leave the stems on, and carefully remove 
the cores. Place them in baking-dish or bean-pot with cover ; add 
one lemon rind cut in strips, and the juice of half a lemon, six 
cloves, ten pounded allspice, and suflficient water to just cover the 
whole, with sugar in proportion of a half pound to each pint water. 
Cover closely, put into very cool oven, and bake from five to six 

hours. Be very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve 
the color of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be 
added ; but this Avill not be found necessary if the pears are very 
gently baked. Take out in glass dish, being careful to preserve 
shape, and pour over them the juice in which they were baked. 
Serve cold, placing on ice a half hour or so before wanted. If a 
larger quantity is to be baked, pack carefully in layers with season- 
ing between. Stewed Pears may be prepared in same manner with 
same ingredients ; cook slowly in porcelain-kettle on top of stove 
instead of baking. Serve as alDove. Or, peel the pears, leave the 
stems on, and place them Avhole in a stew-pan with a little water, 
sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently and add one 
glass cider, if liked, or omit both spices and cider. Some like a 
vanilla bean stewed with them. Serve cold. 

Jellied Pears. — Peel and cut four large or six small pears into 
quarters, put them into a jar with three-fourths pint Avater, cloves, 
cinnamon and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, cover 
down the top of the jar, and bake in a gentle oven until _ perfectly 
tender, but do not allow them to break. When done lay in a plain 
mold, which should be well wetted ; simmer three-fourths pintof 
the liquor the pears were baked in with a strip of lemon peel, strain- 
ed juice of half a lemon, and a half ounce gelatine. Let these in- 
gredients simmer well five minutes, then strain the liquid warm 
over the pears ; put the mold in a cool place, and when the jelly is 
firm turn out in a glass dish. A less elaborate way is to pare and 
quarter eight nice pears, and put in a porcelain saucepan with water 
enough to cook ; put on lid and simmer fruit gently until tender, 
then remove to a platter ; make a syrup of a pound sugar and a 



830 FBTHT. 

pint pear-water ; add juice two lemons, grated rind of one, and pnt 
in the pears ; cook a few minutes then remove to the dish in which 
they are to be molded. Soak an ounce gelatine an hour or two in 
enough water to cover, and stir it into the hot syrup : let boil up once 
and turn it over fruit through a strainer. The mold should be 
dipped in cold water before putting in fruit. When cold turn jelly 
into a dish and serve with whipped cream around the base, or serve 
in saucers Avith sweet cream. 

Pear Compote. — Make as apple compote, or cook six or eight 
canned pears in their syrup until it becomes like honey ; then re- 
move from the fire, halve and lay in a dish. Beat Avhites of two 
eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, and spread over the pears. Brown 
with salamander or in oven, if desired. Or, for a Compote with Eggs^ 
peel good, sound pears, cut into quarters, and take out seeds, flour 
them lightly and fry in butter. Add enough Avater and sugar to 
make a syrup and steAV the pears until tender. Take up the pears, 
thicken the syrup with well-beaten yolks of eggs ; pour over the 
pears and serve. 

Alligator Pear Salad. — The alligator pear is a tropical fruit 
but little known, that tastes something like the American chestnut, 
and is finding its way to some tables. Select green-colored fruit, as 
the black over-ripe fruit is not good. Cut the pear in two, remove 
the large seeds, pare away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into 
strips, and season with a saltspoon salt, two tablespoons olive oil, 
and a teaspoon tarragon vinegar. 

Bailed Pie-Plant. — Wash, peel and cut into inch pieces, and 
place in covered baking-dish, sprinkling sugar on each layer, using 
about a teacup to a quart. The nicest thing to cook it in is a covered 
bean-pot, allowing one hour from time it is put in oven. This 
makes a delicious sauce, far superior to stewing it. If baked Avith- 
out a coA^er it Avill be done in half an hour, but is nicer to coA'er and 
confine the aroma 

Stewed Pie-plant. — Make a 'rich syrup by adding sugar to 
water in Avhich long strij)s of orange peel have been boiled until 
tender, put a single layer of pie-plant three inches long, and stcAV 
gentl}'' until clear. When done remove and cook another layer. 
This makes a handsome dessert dish, ornamented Avith puff-paste 
cut in fanciful shapes. Use one orange to tAvo and a half pounds 
pie-plant. Some prefer to stew pie-plant in clear Avater, turning off 
all the Arater possible Avhen done and letting it get almost cold be- 
fore SAA'eetening. Less sugar is required, and it is also thought to 
be much nicer. To remove the strong acid taste, and also effect a 
saving in sugar, many turn boiling hot Avater over it before cooking 
and let stand until cold, then turning it off; some let stand in the 




FRUIT. 331 

hot water only five minutes or so. Fried Pie-plant is also nice. 
Fry in butter like apples, and sweeten well. 

Pine-apple. — The Strawberry is the best variety, though the 
Sugarloaf is good, of smoother exterior, fine-grained and tender, but 
not so juicy and high-flavored as the former. This fruit is so per- 
ishable that to keep even a few days it must be cooked. To prepare, 
peel and cut the fruit into dice. Throw away the core or heart, 
as it is bitter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar and place on ice some 
time before serving; many let it stand overnight, but as pine- 
apples darken by exposure to air, if wanted to look nicely, serve 
at once. Just before wanted pile high in center of fruit-dish, with 
border of sponge cake slices, Irdy fingers or jelly sandwiches (see 
Jellies and Jamsj, and the tuft of the pine-apple topping 
the wdiole. Very nice if sliced on a slaw-cutter, and some 
after paring pick the fruit from the core with a knife. A 
i^ dish of alternate layers of shredded pine-apple and cocoa- 
"inut, sprinkled with sugar and served with a sauce of or- 
^^^T ange juice, is a nice dessert. Or, peel and cut a pine-apple 
into uniform slices, put in a glass dish and cover with a cup pow- 
dered sugar. Let stand to form a syrup, and just before serving 
add a half cup orange juice. To Keej)- — Pare and cut out the eyes 
of a ripe pine-apple, strip all the pulp from the core with a silver 
fork ; to a pint of this add a pound of granulated sugar ; stir occasion- 
ally until sugar is dissolved, put in glass fruit-cans, and turn down 
the covers as closely as possible. This will keep a long time. 

Plums. — The California and Oregon varieties may be had 
through August and September, as also 
the domestic sweet plums. The Blue 
Damsons, a sour variety, come later, and 
are highly prized, many considering them 
superior to the sweet plums. The Green 
Gages and Imperial Gages are excellent ^''""'• 

for canning and preserving. To serve, they may be simply heaped 
carelessly on a border of green. 

Baked Quinces. — Core the quinces and rub them well, put in 
baking-pan, and fill core cavity with powdered sugar. Bake till 
tender and serve with sugar and cream. Or, pare, quarter, extract 
the seeds and stew in clear cold water until a straw will pierce them ; 
put into a baking-dish with a half cup sugar to every eight quinces, 
pour over the liquor in which they were boiled, cover closely ana 
steam in oven one hour. Pour the syrup over them and serve. 
For a Quince Compote, cook as above, then take out the fruit, la^ 
in covered bowl to keep warm, return syrup to saucepan and boil 
twenty minutes ; pour over fruit and set away covered to cool. Serve 
cold. 




332 FRUIT. 

Steamed Quinces.— V&re, quarter and core very ripe quinces 
and steam in a deep dish until perfectly tender : then slice them in 
the dish in which they are to be served, sprinkle with sugar, and 
pour the juice over them. Serve cold. 

Raisine. — Squeeze the juice from very ripe but quite sound 
grapes, and boil till reduced one-half. Peel and core some pears, 
cut into quarters, and put in the g-rape syrup. Let boil till reduced 
a third. Raisine may be made from unripe grapes, but in this case 
sugar must be added, allowing a quarter pound to every pint grape 
juice. 

Raspherry Float. — Crush a pint very ripe red raspberries with 
a gill sugar ; beat whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and add grad- 
ually a gill powdered sugar ; press the raspberries through a fine 
strainer to avoid seeds, and by degrees beat in the juice with the 
egg and sugar until so stiff that it stands in peaks. All berries may 
be served same way. 

Strawberries. — If to be plainly served select large, fine fruit 
with the stems on, clip the stems within an inch of the berry, and 

^^^^*^^^ arrange in basket as in cut, bordering with 

y^^vjy-v^^v^^ leaves, and rounding the center by heaping 

^^^^■^^^^^ up more leaves. Arrange the strawberries 

_^^^pH|^^^^^5 carefully, standing them on their stems, and 

'^^^ ^'^^ !!!r^^'^^^ pass with a tiny cup ( wine-glasses, egg-glasses 

^"straT^berries. or cvcu butter-platcs will do) of powdered 

sugar to each guest. The berries are taken by the stem, dipped into 
the sugar, and eaten. Never wash berries unless absolutely neces- 
sary. But if they must be washed, take a dish of cold, soft water, 
put in a few berries, and with the hand press them down into the 
water once or twice, until they look clean, then hull them. Repeat 
the process till all are hulled, changing the water often. Never 
drain in a colander. Some wash them by putting them under the 
pump in an open basket, and give them one good showering that 
passes through the berries and carries off all grit and dirt. If not 
to be eaten for an hour or more, hang the basket in the refrigerator, 
and do not hull them until the last moment, though many prefer to 
stem them and sprinkle thickly with sugar two or three hours before 
serving, while others put no sugar over them until dished at table. 

Frozen Straivberries. — Boil quart water and pint sugar together 
half an hour ; then add two quarts strawberries, and cook fifteen 
minutes longer. Let cool and freeze. Take out beater and add 
one pint cream, whipped, using a wooden paddle and beating it in thor- 
oughly. Preserved fruit can be used instead of the fresh, Avhen use 
for each quart preserves one quart water. Frozen Raspberries are 
prepared as above, except that before freezing add the juice of three 
lemons. All kinds of canned and preserved fruits can be thus pre- 
pared and frozen. For the freezing process see Ices and Ice Creams. 



FRUIT. S^^ 



3£ock Strawherries.— Cut ripe peaches and choice well-flavored 
apples, in proportion of three peaches to one apple, into quarters 
about the size of a strawberry, place in alternate layers, sprinkle the 
top thickly with su^ar, and add pounded ice ; let stand about two 
hours, mix peaches^and apples thoroughly, let stand an hour longer 
and serve. 

Oranoed Siraioherrles.-Tltice a layer of strawberries in a deep 
dish; cover thickly with pulverized sugar, then a layer of berries, 
and so on, until all are used. Pour orange juice over them m the 
proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries _ Let stand an 
hour, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. 

Strawherries imth Whippea (7/'c«w.— Prepare in layers as above, 
cover with one pint of cream, whites of three eggs and a cup pow- 
dered sugar, whipped together and flavored with strawberry juice. 

Strawberry Meringue.— ^^ a half cup sugar with two cups 
strawberries by shaking about in a bowl, and spread them on a sheet ot 
sponge cake baked in a jelly-pan, and pressed while warm into a 
shallSw dish to give it a hollow shape. Whip whites of three eggs 
firm, mix in two tablespoons sugar, spread the meringue over the 
berries and brown with the salamander or hot shovel. Serve cold. 
Frosted Fruits.-Most all fruits can be thus treated aiid make a 
delicious dessert. Whip whites of two eggs and stir m a half pound fane 
aranulated sugar, beating fifteen minutes. Prepare Frosted Oranges 
by skinning oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possi- 
ble, without breaking them, passing a thread through the center of 
each, dip them into the frosting until thoroughly coated, and 
then tie them to a stick ; place the stick across the oven and let the 
balls remain until thoroughly dry, when they will have the appear- 
ance of balls of ice. Care must be taken not to have the oven so 
hot as to brown them. Send to table heaped on dish with green 
leaves around. A very pretty dessert or_ supper dish. Or the 
oranges may be peeled and divided into sections, removing as much 
pith as possible, whip together on a plate with a knife or fork white 
of one egg and four tablespoons water, add a dessert-spoon powder- 
ed suo-ar mix all thoroughly and strain through a sieve into an- 
otherflatr; dip the fruit into these, roll carefully in si ted powdered 
su^ar and placi on a sieve to dry. Or some use the stiffly-whipped 
Avlfites of two eggs with one tablespoon water and proceed the same 
Others simply beat the whites until they break, and do not use 
water. Frosted Peaches ^xe done same as oranges first rubbing 
off- the fuzz with a clean cloth, and when partinllv dry roll a 
second time in the sugar. Frosted Currants may be thus prepared 
in bunches, also Frosted Grapes, or these may be taken on a needle 
and done singlv. Frosted Cherries are also done singly on their 
stems or in bunches. For Frosted Bananas, procure those ol 



334 FRUIT. 

medium size, peel and frost Avhoie by brushing them over with the 
whipped egg mixture, using the pastry brush for this, and dipping 
powdered sugar over them ; or cut into nice slices, wipe dry, and 
frost as other fruits. For Frosted Pears choose small Bartlett or 
Sugar pears. Frosted Berries are nice, and any kind of berries 
may be thus served, if large, perfect and not over-ripe. Frosted 
Pkwis are nice also. Very pretty effects are produced by serving 
the different kinds of frosted fruits in same dish, piling the sections 
of oranges evenly in a cone in center and arranging the grapes, 
currants, etc., around the base, interspersed with green leaves, or 
with stems put into the cone at intervals, or in any way fancied. 
A pretty dish of oranges alone is made by first frosting one-third 
the sections, as above, then color one-third of the sugar with a few 
drops liquid cochineal, letting it dry, and rolling if it lumps ; roll 
one-third of the oranges in this, and glaze the remaining third 
according to directions for Glazing Fruits. Put together in dish, 
in rows of each color, or in any pretty order, on a base of green 
leaves. 

Frozen Fruits. — These are frozen the same as water ices, re- 
quiring more salt in freezing than ice cream. If let stand half an 
hour in the freezer on ice they will freeze easier. If in preparing 
the mixture the sugar does not dissolve entirely, which is very nec- 
essary, add more water, or, better still, juice of the same fruit, to 
just dissolve it, and then when ready, freeze. For Frozen Oranges 
take two pounds Florida oranges, first rub one-third of the oranges 
with a handful or two of granulated sugar taken from the two 
pounds sugar to be used in recipe, then peel, quarter and halve each 
quarter, taice out seeds, and mix with all the sugar as above, juice 
of two lemons and one quart water. When sugar is dissolved put 
in freezer and turn slowly, so as to break the orange pulp as little as 
possible. For Frozen Straiuherries mix two pounds berries and 
juice of two lemons, or for a richer flavor use oranges, let stand half 
an hour, add two pounds sugar, and _ after another half hour one 
quart water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, freeze, and color 
with a few drops of carmine. For Frozen Pine-apples take the 
Birdseye or Rose, prepare as for serving, cutting into dice ; mix at 
once in same proportions as strawberries, omitting the carmine. 
Frozen Bananas are prepared in same way. For Frozen Pasp- 
herries mix two pounds each berries and sugar, stir lightly once or 
twice till sugar is dissolved, add one quart water and freeze, stirring 
only enough to congeal it. If purple berries are used, put two table- 
spoons each currant juice and sugar to each pound fruit. Some 
prefer juice of lemons to that of currants. For Frozen Cherries 
bruise one dozen kernels in a mortar to a paste, and tie loosely in 
muslin. Mix two and quarter pounds cherries, having first stoned 
them, and two pounds sugar, put in kernels, let stand half an 



FRUIT. 835 

hour, add water, stir gently to dissolve sugar, take out kernels and 
freeze. The very small quantity of kernels used gives a pleasant 
nutty flavor^ and a hardly perceptible bitter taste, which is acce^jtable 
to most palates ; but if disliked by any it may be omitted. For i' rozen 
Currants mash one and one-half pounds currants and one-half 
})Ound raspberries lightly, add two pounds sugar, and after half an 
hour one quart water, and when dissolved, freeze. If the fruit is very 
acid add more sugar. Frozen Peaches^ Apricots^ Nectarines 
and Plums are prepared the same, except the three latter 
are not pared. Select two pounds white-fleshed peaches and rub 
off fuzz, pare, cut in half and drop at once into ice-cold water; 
when all are pared, drain quickly, and mix with two pounds 
sugar, adding one dozen kernels which have been pounded 
to a paste, and tied in a muslin bag. Add one quart water, 
and when sugar is dissolved, take out bag, chop fruit into 
dice, mix and freeze. Color faintly with carmine. Use canned 
apricots if fresh cannot be obtained. For Frozen Apples pare and 
core two pounds apples and drop into cold water. When all are 
prepared, drain, cut into dice, mix with two pounds sugar, add 
half ounce apple seeds, bruised and tied in a muslin rag, stir lightly, 
after half an hour add the water, mix well, remove bag and freeze. 
For Frozen Grapes stone and gently mash two and a quarter 
pounds fruit, mix with two pounds sugar, after an _ hour add one 
quart water and freeze. For a Macedoine of Fruits mix two or 
more fruits that harmonize in flavor, as orange and pine-apple, 
peach and apricot, apple and orange, plum and grape, raspberry, 
cherry and currant, strawberry and lemon. Mix in any of above 
proportions and freeze. 

Glazed Fruits. — Boil a cup each granulated sugar and water 
together half an hour (less water may be used), or until it becomes 
brittle when dropped in cold water. Pour this syrup in a bowl 
placed in hot water, and dip the fruit to be glazed in this and place 
to dry. For Glazed Oranges peel and separate into the natural 
divisions without breaking the skin. Take each piece on a skewer 
and dip into the hot syrup and then place the other end of the 
skewers in a bowl of salt, with the oranges hanging over the edge, 
that the glazing may dry perfectly, or lay them on a slightly but- 
tered plate. Plums, grapes, cherries, currants and other fruits may 
be glazed in same manner. Do not stir the syrup or it will grain, 
and it is well to add the juice of a lemon to prevent its turning to 
sugar. If it begins to grain add a little water and reheat. Or the 
syrup may be made of a pound sugar, a large half cup water, and a 
half teaspoon cream tartar. Iced Fruits are done by simply coat- 
ing with plain white iceing, made with whites of eggs and sugar, as 
for cake. 



336 FRUIT. • 

Macedo ine of Fruits. — With jelly this is a handsome dish for des- 
sert, and seems a very elaborate one, but is quite easily prepared. Any 
,^^ bright-colored jelly, flavored nicely, will 

,^^^^>2 do for the purpose, and these are speed- 

S^^^fe^ ily prepared by means of gelatine. 

^Ty'T^^^ First put the mold on ice, and proceed 

PilS^^^I ^^ fi^^ alternately with jelly and different 

iaij|MHMjffl| kinds of fruits ; pour in a little jelly 

iiifni^l^Ml ^^^^ when set arrange fruits in a circle, 

W''"iBbI^W^-n ^^ according to taste ; pour in more 
[.^i^^^^^Sz^^^^^®-- i^^^y^ ^"^'^ when it hardens put in more 
^^iiiiiiijinn^^ fruit, and continue thus until full. 

Grapes, cherries, peaches, strawberries, 
Macrdome ot iruits. ^^ ^^^^ frults, tlio smallcr ones on their 

stems, the larger ones cut in pieces, show off handsomely, and if 
fresh fruit is scarce, preserved or candied fruit may be used. Keep 
the jelly in a pan of hot water to prevent its hardening until used. 
When firm turn it out and surmount the whole with mixed fruits. 

Fruit Balls. — Spread boiled rice over a cloth and lay on the 
rice cherries,. berries or oranges, peeled, and as much pith as pos- 
sible removed, tie closely, boil long enough to cook the fruit, 
sprinkle with sugar and serve with syrup, or sugar and cream, or 
anv sauce liked. Or, pare and core apples whole, put some sugar 
and a clove into each, put the rice around them, tie in a cloth and 
boil until tender. Serve same. 

Fruit Juices. — Mash the juicy fruits to a pulp, place on fire till 
scalding hot. Pour into a puree sieve and allow the juice to run 
through. Put into bottles or cans and seal and finish as in Canning 
Fruits by placing them in boiler of cold water and boil for twenty 
minutes. Remove from fire and allow to remain in boiler until 
cold; then set away for use. In the case of non-juicy fruits, such 
as apples, pears, peaches, etc., put fruit in saucepan, cover with 
water, and boil to a pulp, place on a hair sieve and allow to drain 
without any pressing. Bottle this juice as above. This makes the 
clear, transparent extracts for syrups, cordials and beverages. In 
cases where the flavorings are to be used for any purpose where 
transparency or clearness is not desirable, such as for ice creams, 
fruit-ices, or bon-bons, then use not only the clear fluid but also the 
pulp, and bottle as above. 

Fruit SaJarJ. — For platter of salad sufficient for twelve or six- 
teen take half dozen each oranges and pears, one dozen each 
peaches and bananas, pound each white and red grapes and one 
l(Mnon ; pare the large fruits, and first cut an orange in small pieces 
and place in center of i)latter ; on top of or around these pieces cut 
a peach or two (according to size), then a banana, then a pear — 



FKUIT. 337 

using one's fancy in the shapes of the pieces, some round, some 
square, some oblong, etc. Wash a few of the grapes and place them 
(without stems) at different points over the layer, and dust over 
with granulated sugar, then squeeze upon it a little lemon juice. 
Now commence again with orange and proceed as before with all 
tlie fruits until platter is nicely filled and rounded with the different 
fruits. Finish with small clusters of red and white grapes (on 
stems) alternately placed around the edge of the platter" and small 
thin slices of the red core of watermelon may be added with the grapes. 
If the juice accumulates too much in platter carefully dip it into a 
small pitcher J and as the salad is served pour over some juice. 
This can be made of canned fruits (adding strawberries), but does 
not look as well. 

Fruit Toasts. — Halve and stone peaches and place each half 
inside uppermost, on thin square or round pieces of bread ; 
l)lace in bottom of well-buttered dish, with a piece of butter in each, 
sprinkle with sugar and bake a half hour in moderate oven ; when 
done, arrange carefully in a dish, pour the syrup from baking dish 
over, and serve hot. Apricots, large plums and pears are nice baked 
thus. 

Fnut in Jelly, — Put a half pint clear melted calf-foot jelly into 
a bowl ; lay in three peaches and a bunch of grapes, with the stalks 
upward ; put in three small vine leaves next, and fill up with the 
jellv; let stand overnight, then set to the brim in hot water; when 
the jelly loosens from the bowl put dish over it and turn out care- 
fully. 

Amhrosia. — Take four each oranges and bananas, one pine- 
apple (canned may be used), quart strawberries and ten tablespoons 
grated cocoa-nut. Peel the fruit, stem the berries, and place in glass 
dish a layer of berries, then sliced pine-apples, then oranges cut in 
small pieces, taking out seeds, then bananas sliced crosswise, adding 
strawberries here and there, so that they will show through the 
dish; now another layer of pine-apples, then bananas, then oranges, 
placing_ sugar between each layer and over the top, using one and 
a half pints powdered sugar. Cover with the grated cocoa-nut and over 
this place a layer of large selected strawberries. Let stand in a 
cold place for an hour or two before serving. Same can be made 
with half as many oranges and bananas, omitting cocoa-nut and plac- 
ing fruits in successive layers, not scattering the strawberries ; or take 
six SAveet oranges, one pine-apple, one large cocoa-nut, grated, and 
sprinkle pulverized sugar over each layer. Or, use six oranges, six 
lemons, and two cocoa-nuts, or only oranges and cocoa-nuts, pre- 
pared as above. Some pour over the orange and cocoa-nuts a half 
cup each orange and lemon juice, and it is delicious added to any 
ambrosia. 




338 FRUIT. 

Melons. — These fruits are always served fresh, and should he 
thoroughly cooled by keeping on ice until just ready to send to the 
table, and are nicer if left on ice overnight. 
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, or arrange 
a border of the smaller fruits around it. The 
latter gives a very pretty effect. The Nutmeg 
Melon is the finest variety. To prepare for the 
table, wash them and wipe dry, set on the blos- 
som end, and cut in several equal pieces from Nutmeg Melon, 
the stem downward, leaving each alternate piece still attached ; the 
others may then be loosened, the upper end clipped off and the seeds 
removed, when the melon is ready to serve, as shown in cut. Or 
cut off the top of each melon, remove the seeds, fill with powdered 
ice, replace the toj^s and send to table as if whole. Some prefer to 
serve them cut in halves, with a lump of ice on each. This cools 
them perfectly and quickly. As a dressing some place a table- 
spoon honey in each half, but most people like sugar, or a sea- 
soning of salt and pepper, which is usuall)'- sent round with them. 
They are also sometimes served with a salad dressing, when rather 
insipid and tasteless, though more of a breakfast than a dinner dish. 
Melon is often sent on after the soup at dinner. For a nice Melon 
Salad pare rind from a musk or nutmeg melon and slice lengthwise ; 
cut these slices crosswise as sliced cucumbers, place in bowl, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper and add three or four tablespoons oil or a little 
melted butter. Let stand half an hour on ice, then add a pinch 
sugar and a little vinegar, spoonful at a time, simply to moisten 
without leaving any liquid in bowl. Serve as first course at break- 
fast heaped in middle of platter, garnished with green. If a melon 
is found insipid or over ripe, scoop out the pulp by spoonfuls in- 
stead of serving in slices and pass a French dressing with it, which 
poured over the melon pulp makes a very appetizing dainty. 

Watermelons must also be thoro^ighh/ chilled by standing on 
ice several hours and are served as fruit at (dessert. The fruit may be 
cut as illustrated and sent to table on a border of green leaves, when it 
is served in slices with the rind attached ; or clip the ends of the 
watermelons, cut them across in halves, set upon the clipped ends on 
a platter, and serve the pulp only, removing it in symmetrical egg- 
shaped pieces with a spoon ; or if very large, cut across in thick 
slices, and serve in nice triangular shaped pieces 
on the rind. Some season with sugar and some 
with salt, and some not at all. Watermelons 
have been kept fresh until into the winter by 
gathering before quite ripe, wrapping in news- 
paper and packing in sawdust, watermelon. 

Chestnuts. — To boil chestnuts, shell, and put them into warm 
water, slightly salted, and cook fast fifteen minutes. Turn ofi" the 
water through a colander ; stir a good-sized piece of butter into the 








FRUIT. 339 

hot chestnuts, tossing them over and over until glossy and dry. Or 
put half an ounce aniseed into water enough for fifty chestnuts, and 
boil, first clipping of the points off the nuts. Serve on a hot napkin 
in deep dish. For Stewed Chestnuts, first roast them and when 
done, shell and put in a pan with water, allowing quarter of a pint 
to a pound of sugar and two pounds chestnuts. Stew fifteen min- 
utes, adding slowly the juice of a lemon. 

Cocoa-nut — A nice dessert is made by grating a large cocoa-nut 
into a glass dish, serving with cream, preserves, jellies or jams. Co- 
coa-nut Puifs are also nice for dessert. To prepare, break a fine ripe 
cocoa-nut, lay pieces in cold water, drain and dry well, then grate and 
put in little heaps on a glass dish. Flatten tlie heaps in the center 
so as to make a hollow and fill Avith preserves. Whip a pint of rich 
cream to a froth, sweeten and flavor with lemon ; pile this on top of 
the preserves and serve. The little heaps should not be larger round 
than a dollar. To Drr/ Cocoa-nut, grate three or four and put in pan 
with one cup sugar ; steam over a kettle of hot water until the sugar 
is melted ; set in the oven and stir frequently until dry. 

Salted J.Zmfl?if75.— Blanch shelled Jordan almonds, place in a 
bed of salt in dripping pan, put in a rather slow oven, watch care- 
fully and when browned and nicely flavored, take out. A quantity 
can be made at a time. Serve as a' last course at a dinner or even- 
ing party. 

Walnuts and Hickory Nuts.—Gx2,Q\ and pick from shells; 
sprinkle salt lightly over and serve mixed in same dish. All nuts are 
much more wholesome when eaten with salt. 



Dried Fruits. 



In providing a supply of fruit for winter use, every experienced 
and economical housekeeper prepares an abundance of dried fruits. 
Drying is much less expensive than canning or preserving, and fruit 
wanted for pies, puddings, etc., is better if preserved in this manner, 
while many prefer the flavor of dried peaches, when properly done, 
tQ that of the finest canned fruit. Time and care are both required 
in its preparation, however, to attain satisfactory results. Always 
place to dry in the open air when possible, but when much fruit is 
dried, it is necessary to have a house for the purpose. Small quan- 



340 DRIED FRUITS. 



titles should be so arranged as to be placed near the kitchen fire when 
taken in at night or during stormy days. Those who have hot-bed 
sash, can easily arrange a drying apparatus which will dry rapidly 
and at the same time keep off insects. A hot-bed frame with a 
bottom to it, and raised above the ground, makes a capital drying 
box. The sash should be elevated at one end to allow the moisture 
to pass off, covering the opening with netting. Or the frnit will dry 
nicely if spread in shallow boxes or box covers, covered with mos- 
quito netting to prevent flies reaching it. When impossible to dry 
out of doors, the fruit may be placed on plates and dried in the oven, 
but care must be taken to prevent scorching. A recently patented 
convenience is a fruit evaporator for family use, which consists of 
a rectangular pan of thick tin about two and a half feet long by four- 
teen inches wide, with a double bottom. The space between the 
bottoms is filled with hot water by means of a little pipe that pro- 
jects to the top of pan from one corner ;' the fruit is placed on the 
upper bottom and the separator is set on the stove or range to keep 
the water hot. The pan can be moved about on the range, or set off 
for a few minutes if wished and the fruit dries rapidly with no dan- 
ger of burning. Methods of preparing and drying the different fruits 
are described hereafter. When thoroughly dried, put away in jars 
in dry places and cover closely, or tie up in paper sacks. The secret 
of keeping dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dry 
and cool place. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box lined with paper? 
are secure against moths. Reheating fruit, which is necessary if it 
becomes damp, makes it dark in color and impairs its flavor, and 
should be avoided if possible by keeping in a thoroughly dry place. 
When ajar or sack of dried fruit is opened, always fill a fruit can 
or small sack, and keep for present use, to avoid opening often. It 
is said that dried fruit put away with a little sassafras bark (say a 
large handful to a bushel) will keep for years unmolested by those 
troublesome little insects which so often destroy hundreds of bush- 
els in a single season. 

Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be con- 
verted into dry preserves by first draining them from the syrup, and 
then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them 
a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate 
the fruit, Avhile the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They 
should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six 



DEIED FRUITS. 341 



or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every 
time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept dry in draw^ 
ers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, 
in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. 

Fruits of every kind may be candied by first boiling them in 
syrup, then take out and dry in a pan on stove or before the fire ; 
boil the syrup to a candy, dip fruit into it once more, and set to dry. 
Put into covered boxes or patent jars it will keep a long time. 

To freshen figs, wash them thoroughly and dry on a towel and 
heat them in the oven ; take out and roll in powdered sugar. 

In selecting dried currants secure the Zante variety. They are 
not currants but a small seedless grape from the Zante Island, and 
like all candied and dried fruit, such as citron, lemon and orange 
peel, etc., should be moist, tender and without crystals of sugar on 
them. In raisins the Sultanas or Seedless, which come to us from 
Smyrna, packed in drums, and are of a light amber color, plump 
and moist, rank first for fine cakes and puddings, but the Valencia 
are cheaper and more commonly used ; for table, the loose Mus- 
catels and laj'er raisins are preferred ; of the latter, the Dehesia Layer 
is the finest, very large and fancy, the Cabinet Layer, in bunches, 
stands second, and the London Layer third. All raisins except the 
Sultanas should be large, plump, tender and fleshy, with a bluish 
cast and no crystals. The California raisins have a tough skin and 
large seed, and are not nearly so desirable as foreign importations, 
but are largely used on account of the very low price. 



Candied Almonds. — Blanch any quantity of almonds, then fry 
in butter till a light brown color; wipe nicely with a napkin, and 
put into a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, and boil to a thread 
— that is, until on taking a drop of the sugar between the finger and 
thumb it will produce a thread ; care must be taken to boil it to the 
exact candying-point ; pour it boiling-hot upon the almonds, and stir 
them till quite cold. An excellent method of preparing almonds or 
any nuts for dessert. Or simply blanch them, roll while moist in 
powdered sugar, and place in oven to dry. 

Candied Apples. — Squeeze juice of two or three lemons into 
preserving kettle. Peel, core and slice small apples ; put into the 
lemon juice and shake over the fire a minute or two and set aside to 



342 DRIED FRUITS. 



absorb as much juice as possible. When quite cold, put into a syrup 
of boiling sugar and let simmer until the syrup is turned to sugar 
again. Take out the fruit and dry. Or peel Golden Pippins, or other 
nice tart apples, and put them into a sauce-pan cold water; let 
them gradually come to a boil, when remove a little from the fire, 
and as soon as they begin to soften take up and drain. To one 
quart water in which they were boiled put a pound and a half white 
sugar ; boil and skim it ; put in the apples, let come to a boil, and 
take them from syrup ; repeat this operation three or four times and 
put them on a sieve to dry, flatten them gently with the hands, and 
arrange them in bon-bon boxes. 

Candied Cherries. — Make a syrup of two pounds loaf sugar 
and one cup water and boil until thick enough to "pull," as for can- 
dy. Remove to side of range, and stir until it shows signs of gran- 
ulating, and it is well to stir frequently while cooking, to secure 
this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in 
carefully stoned cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply lie in the 
boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. 
Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad 
dish, and dry in a sunn}'' window. Enough for two quarts cherries. 

Candied Citron. — Pare the citron, remove seeds, let lay over- 
night in a weak s^Tup. Next morning drain through a colander; 
and for each pound citron, take a pound white sugar ; boil the sugar 
until quite a thick svrup is formed, then drop the citron in and cook 
down thick ; when clone, pour out on plates and leave near the stove 
until dry, then sprinkle with granulated sugar and keep in glass jars. 
Lemon and orange peel can be prepared in the same way, but with- 
out laying in syrup overnight. Or, simply boil the citron in water 
until it is clear and soft enough to be easily pierced with a fork ; 
take out, put in a nice syrup of sugar and water, and boil until the 
sugar has penetrated it. Take out and spread on dishes to dry 
slowly, sprinkling several times with powdered sugar, and turning 
until it is dried enough. Pack in jars or boxes with sugar between 
the layers. 

Candied Currants. — To candy currants it is only necessary to 
dip them into syrup prepared as for Candied Cherries. They are 
made very nice by sifting powdered sugar over when taken from the 
syrup. Candied Crapes and Berries prepared same way. 

Candiea Lemon Peel. — Soak the peels in salt ana water over- 
night ; in the morning freshen in three waters and boil till tender ; 
make a syrup of a quart water to a pound sugar and simmer the peels 
in it half an hour ; pour into a bowl together and let stand until next 
day, then make a syrup to cover them of a pound sugar to a pint 
water for each pound pulp, boiling till it threads ; put the peel into 



DRIED FRUITS. 



843 



the syrup, boil half an hour, take ont and drain on a sieve, andas 
the candy dries, transfer to a dish to dry in a warm place. Candied 
Omnc/e'PeelTprepa.ved same way. When the orange peel is sliced 
very thick it is called Orange Citron 

Candied Peaches. — Peel and slice ripe peaches, make a thin 
syrup and boil fruit until it looks clear ; lay on a sieve to drain, 
then roll in dry brown sugar and expose to the sun ; change to dry 
dishes, dip in sugar again and leave until entirely dried and crys- 
tallized 

Candied 7ow«i!oes.— Scald and skin pear-shaped (or any small- 
sized) tomatoes, and to eight pounds add three pounds brown sugar ; 
cook without water until the sugar penetrates and they have a clear 
appearance, take out, spread on dishes, and dry in the sun, sprink- 
ling on a little syrup while drying; pack in jars or boxes, in layers 
with powdered sugar between. Thus put up they will keep for any 
length of time, and are nearly equal to figs. Candied Peaches may 
be prepared in same way. 

Dried Jj(?;_>Zes.— Take only good, sound fruit, pare, quarter and 
core and slice lengthwise ; spread in the sun or fruit evaporator to 
dry, or run them on strings and hang near kitchen fire. A piece pf 
coarse muslin or net stretched over a frame and hung from the ceil- 
ing, mny also be used for drying. When found that winter apples 
are not "keeping well it is an excellent plan to begin drying at once 
to prevent waste, and despite the prejudice against dried apples, 
the fruit so put up at home may l)e made with a little painstaking 
into sauce and pies that Avill be eaten with a relish in the spring 
when fruit is scarce and high. 

Dried Apple Sauce.— Lo<dk over dried apples carefully ana soak 
until tender in enough cold water to cover, allowing for swelling. The 
old-fashioned dried apple requires soaking overnight, or for several 
hours ; the delicate sliced dried apple, sold as "evaporated apple," 
requires only about fifteen minutes, in just water enough to cover. 
The former must be carefully washed before soaking, but the sliced 
apple is perfectly clean. Boil in the water it was soaked in, stead- 
ily and slowly, and stir often, keeping closely covered. Break up 
the dried rind of an orange for every quart of apple, and boil with 
it. When soft, like jam, take off and rub through sieve. ^ Sweeten 
to taste and serve cold. Some like to season highly with cinnamon. 
To prepare quickly, soak fifteen minutes in clean warm water ; drain, 
cover with cold soft water, place on the stove, let boil slowly two to 
four hours, mash fine, sw^eeten and season with cinnamon very highly. 
For a nice sauce with raisins, put two pounds dried apples and one 
pound raisins in a crock with plenty of water and set on back of 
stove. Let boil slowly all day. When almost done add a lemon 



344 



DRIED FRUITS. 



peeled and sliced very thin and two pounds sugar. Never add sugar 
until about five minutes before removing from the stove, otherwise 
the fruit will be toughened and hardened. A nice way of serving is 
to raise a border of dried apples prepared as in first recipe above, 
in a large dish or ice cream saucer, as the case may be, fill the hol- 
low middle with boiled custard and spread a meringue of sweetened 
and whipped whites of eggs on top. Brown with hot salamander or 
shovel. Black Apple Sauce is made with dried apples and dried 
black raspberries stewed together. Soak both separately overnight in 
water to cover. Stew the apples in water soaked in, until half done, 
then add raspberries, without the juice, and when both are nearly 
done sweeten to taste and simmer gently a few moments longer. 

Dried Bananas. — A method for drying bananas has been pat- 
ented in Jamaica, and they may now be purchased in the larger 
cities. The fruit retains its flavor in a remarkable degree. The 
banana is cut in half lengthwise and dried slowly, which prevents 
fermentation and decay. They are prepared for use as other dried 
fruits. 

Dried Blachherries. — Dry in the sun, or fruit evaporator, or in 
the oven, like apples, being careful when drying in oven not to scorch 
them in the least. Dried thus, blackberries make excellent pies and 
are better if not stewed for this purpose. If simply put in the crust 
with sufficient water and sugar and a very little flour they Avill be 
found to cook quickly and retain their fresh flavor in a remarkable 
degree. Some prefer, however, to dry them with sugar, allowing a 
pound sugar to eight or ten quarts berries ; put over the fire AA^ith a 
half pint water and bring slowly to boiling point ; then skim out 
berries and spread on plates to "dry, pouring the juice over, a little 
on each plate Dried Rasvherries may be prenared after either 
method. 

Dried Cherries. — Cherries may be put into a slow oven and 
thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. Be careful that 
the oven is not too hot. They should then be taken out, tied in 
bunches and stowed away in a dry place. Nice cooked with sugar 
for Avinter dessert. Another method of drying is to stone them and 
put into a preserving kettle with plenty of sugar, about five table- 
spoons to each quart ; simmer till the fruit shrivels, when it should 
be strained from the juice. Place the cherries in an oven cool 
enough to dry Avithout baking them. The same syrup may be used 
to do another quantity of fruit, though some boil the syrup until 
A'cry thick and pour iit over the fruit as it dries, a little at a time. 
Pack in jars and paste paper over the top. An excellent method of 
drying both cherries and currants is to put in jars first a layer of 
fruit, then a layer of sugar, in the proportion of half a pound sugar 
to pound fruit and let stand overnight ; place them to boil, skim- 



DRIED FRUITS. 345 



ming oif all scum, let boil ten or fifteen minutes, skim out and 
spread on dishes to dry in the sun, or by the fire, turning frequently 
until dry ; then place on pans in oven, stirring with the hand often 
until the heat is too great to bear. They may then be packed in jars 
with sugar, or put away in paper sacks, or stone crocks with a cloth 
tied closely over the top, and are an excellent substitute for raisins in 
puddings or mince pies. To dry cherries without sugar, stone, and 
set them over the fire in the preserving pan ; let them simmer in 
their own liquor, and shake them in the pan Put them in common 
china dishes ; next day scald again and when cold put on sieves to 
dry in moderate oven. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do 
them. Put away in a box with a paper between each layer. 

Dried Ctirrants. — Take one pint sugar to a pint stemmed ripe 
currants ; put them .together in a porcelain kettle, a layer of cur- 
rants at the bottom; when sugar is dissolved, let boil one or two 
minutes, skim from the syrup, and spread on plates to dry in a partly 
cooled oven. Boil the syrup until thickened, pour it over the cur- 
rants, and dry it with them. Pack in jars and cover closely. BlacJc- 
lei^rles may be dried in the same manner. An economical way of 
making jelly is to boil the liquid after currants are taken out, skim- 
ming well, until it becomes a jelly, and put away in jelly glasses. 

Dried Gooseberries. — To seven pounds gooseDerries add a pound 
and a half of powdered sugar, strewing it over them in preserving 
kettle. Let remain over a slow fire till they begin to break, and 
then remove. Repeat this process two or three days ; then take the 
gooseberries from the syrup and spread out on sieves in the sun or 
near the fire to dry, The syrup may be used for other preserves. 
When quite dry put away in tin boxes on layers of paper. They 
will keep in this way all winter, and may be used for pies, tarts, etc. 

Driea Greengages. — Procure fruit before quite ripe and leave 
stems on. Weigh, and allow a pound sugar and one-fourth pint 
water to each pound fruit,, boil to a rich syrup, skim, put in the fruit 
and boil ten minutes, take from fire and drain the fruit ; next day 
boil the syrup and put in the fruit, and continue the process five or 
six days ; after draining the last time, place the greengages on a hair 
sieve and set in oven or other warm spot to dry ; keep in a box, with 
paper between each layer, in a dr}'- place. 

Dried Peaches. — In preparing peaches for drying, if peeled at 
all do it by immersing for an instant in hot water as directed in 
Canning Fruits. It is said that in peaches, as in potatoes, the best 
of the fruit lies nearest the skin, and for this reason some never peel 
peaches for any purpose but rub them thoroughly with a woolen 
cloth. Dried peaches are better when halved and the cavities sprinkled 
with sugar while drying. The fruit must be good, however, as poor 



34(i DEIED FEUITS. 



fruit can not be redeemed by any process. Another excellent way 
ip to dry them in the oven, and, when about half done, place in a 
crock a layer of peaches alternately with a la^^er of sugar ; tie papers 
over them and set away. 

Dried Peach Sauce. — Prepare as Dried Apple Sauce, but do 
not mash or season so highly. Cook in porcelain, without stirring, 
and sweeten to taste just before taking from fire. Very nice sweet- 
ened with maple sugar. 

Dried Pineapple. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, place it on 
dishes, strew over plenty of granulated sugar, and keep in a hot 
closet or very slow oven eight or ten days, turning the fruit every 
day until dry. Then put the slices on tins and set them in a quick 
oven for ten minutes. Let cool and put away in dry boxes with 
paper between each layer. 

Dried Plums. — Selecx perfect fruit, just ripe but not soft, wipe 
and stone and put in a porcelain kettle with a quarter pound 
sugar for every pound fruit. Heat slowly to extract the juice and 
scald thoroughly, but without boiling. Skim the plums out with a 
coarse wire skimmer and spread carefully on platters ; more plums 
may be scalded in same syrup, and when all are done boil the syrup 
until quite thick and pour over the plums placed to dry. Dry as 
quickly as possible. Some gather plums when full grown and just 
turning color and dry them whole. Prick the fruit, to prevent burst- 
ing, put into a saucepan cold water and set on fire until at boiling 
point ; then take out, drain, and boil gently in syrup, made in pro- 
portion of one-fourth pint water to every pound sugar. If the plums 
shrink and Avillnot take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan, 
give them another boil and set them away. Next day add more 
sugar boiled almost to candy ; put all together in wide-mouthed jar 
and place in cool oven for two nights. Then drain the plums from 
the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over and dry in a ceol 
oven. 

Primes. — Look over and wash nice French prunes ; simmer 
gently in plenty of water, with a small stick cinnamon and a table- 
spoon strong vinegar to a pound of fruit, for at least six hours, and 
when thus thoroughly done, add just enough brown sugar to slightly 
sweeten them and thicken juice with a very little corn starch wet up 
in cold water ; or in place of vinegar use a quarter teaspoon cream 
tartar mixed with corn starch, let prunes just boil and remove from 
stove. This makes a most delicious sauce and when nearly done a 
few kernels extracted from the prune stones, dropped in the juice, 
give a delicate flavor. 

Broimied Prunes. — Soak prunes overnight in cold water, boil 
until tender, not allowing them to break, and take out the pits. 



DRIED FBUITS. 347 



Grate some chocolate, mix it with three ounces powdered sugar and 
beaten whites of three eggs. Dip the prunes one by one in the mix- 
ture, and put them, without allowing them to touch, on a buttered 
tin. Bake fifteen minutes and serve hot. 

Prune Tapioca. — Soak half pint tapioca in one quart water 
three or four hours, keeping it just tepid, add juice of a lemon, and 
a little grated rind, three-fourths cup sugar and boil till clear, stir- 
ring occasionally. Place one and half pints stewed, sweetened and 
seeded prunes, withoutjuice, in dish and cover with the tapioca. When 
cold cover with some whipped cream and serve. Or for Cherry Tap- 
ioca^ place two cups dried cherries or three of stoned fresh ones, 
cooked and sweetened, in dish, cover with the boiled tapioca, and if 
wished, stir together and put in a mold ; then serve with whipped 
sweetened cream. 

Prune Whip. — Sweeten to taste and stew three-quarters pound 
prunes ; when perfectly cold., add whites of four eggs beaten stiff; 
stir all together till light, put in a dish, and bake twenty minutes ; 
when cold, serve in a larger dish, and cover well with good cream. 

Dried Fruit in Oakes. — Any fruit may be preserved by dry- 
ing as follows : To every pound fruit allow half pound sugar, with 
a little water. When water and sugar are heated, take fruit in skim- 
mer, and dip it for about a minute into the sugar, then spread it on 
tins. After all the fruit has been done thus, boil down the sugar to 
a rich, thick syrup, and pour it over the truit. The fruit must now 
be put either in the sun, or in a warm oven, till it is in a dried ge- 
latinous condition. Let remain till quite dry, when put in bags, di- 
viding it into cakes. These cakes will keep a long time, and when 
wanted for use, merely require a little hot water put to them, and 
probably extra sugar. 

Fruit Pastes. — These are really candied fruits in another form. 
Care must be taken in cooking not to scorch them. For an Apple 
Paste, peel and core sound, ripe apples and put in water until quite 
soft ; then rub through a puree sieve with a wooden spoon, weigh the 
pulp and put in a preserving kettle with same weight of sugar and 
boil twenty minutes ; pour out thin on plates or in molds and dry 
on a cool stove or in a cool oven. Or, put an equal weight of ap- 
ples and stoned plums into a preserving pan. Boil without adding 
any water. When the fruit begins to get soft add a pound sugar to 
each pound pulp. Boil slowly for an hour, and pour into shallow 
molds ; place these in a slow oven, when the preserve will dry un- 
til it resembles a Fruit Cheese. To make an Apricot Paste, take 
ripe apricots, and put them in a preserving-pan with a little sugar, 
place on the side of the fire to reduce to paste, then rub through a hair 
sieve, allowing a half pound sifted sugar to every pound pulp. Put 



348 DRIED FRUITS. 



it on the fire and boil ten minutes. Spread on tins to dry. Make 
Peach Paste the same, cooking ten minutes longer. For Currant 
Paste^ take either red or white currants, rub through a sieve, after 
having j-iicked them over thoroughly ; put the mashed fruit in a pan 
over the fire, stirring until it forms a paste ; remove it, and to every 
pound pulp put one and quarter pounds fine sugar. Mix together, 
and boil twenty minutes ; spread out on tin plates, cut into shapes 
and dry. For Orange Paste, press out tlie juice of five Seville 
oranges, boiling the rinds till they are very soft. With a thin wooden 
or bone spoon scoop out the pulp ; pound the rinds in a mortar, as fine 
as possible, with half the juice of the oranges. Rub all through a 
hair sieve, and keep on the fire until it becomes like marmalade. 
Empty it out and weigh, allowing two pounds fine granulated sugar 
to each pound pulp. Boil it ten minutes, spread out thin on tin 
plates or tins, and cut it to any shape ; dry it and keep in tin boxes. 
Make Lemon Paste in same manner, but do not use any juice. To 
make either Cherry or Plum Paste stone the fruit, boil to a jam, put 
through a sieve and finish as in first recipe for Apple Paste. These 
pastes. may be cut into rings or any fancy shapes, and colored with 
a few drops of the usual coloring. 



GAME. 349 



G-AME. 



Under this head are included all the edible wild animals and 
wild fowl. No market in the world is so abundantly supplied 
with this species of food as the American. The point of contrast 
between the flesh of wild animals and that of domesticated and ar- 
tifically fed ones is the greater hardness and solidity of the flesh, the 
greater proportion of solid flbre to the juices, the less proportion of 
water and fat in the juices, and the greater proportion of lean to fat. 
Hence it follows that under the same circumstances (say when both 
the wild and the tame animals have been killed within a day) the 
mastication of the flesh of wild animals is less easy, the flavor is 
more concentrated, and the proportion of flesh-forming compounds 
is greater. They are therefore strong foods, and if well digested 
are highly nutritious. Their decided flavor is also a recommenda- 
tion to invalids or others who, being satiated with ordinary food, 
need something to stimulate a defective appetite. White meated game 
should be cooked to well-done ; dark meated game rare, and should 
always be sent to table very Jiot, with hot plates. Keeping g;imc 
renders it more tender, and brings out its flavor, and the longer it 
can be kept Avithout tainting the better it is. This is especially true 
of the pheasant and snipe. Any game may be kept several days in 
good condition by caring for it as follows : Pick, draw and rinse 
quickly with pure cold Avater ; wipe dry, and rub lightly inside Avith a 
mixture of fine salt and black pepper. If to be kept quite a while 
put in the cavity of each foAvl a piece of charcoal, or rub in- 
side and out Avilh poAvdered charcoal, hang in a cool dark 
place and cover Avith a cloth, always hanging by the neck. Suiull 



350 GAME. 

birds, unless too many of them, may be kept in refrigerator. Char- 
coal is an admirable preventive of decomposition. If hunters would 
draw game immediately after killing and stuff Avith hay, until it 
could be placed in the hands of the cook, it would be found to have 
a fresher, finer flavor and would keep much longer. Of game birds 
the woodcock outranks all in delicate tenderness and sweet flavor, 
but must not be kept too long. The thigh is especially deemed a 
choice tidbit. The leg is the finest part of the snij.e, but generally 
the breast is the most juicy and nutritious part of birds. When 
birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon as possible and im- 
merse in new milk for twenty-four hours, when they will be quite 
sweet and fit for cooking. Prairie chickens will keep well two or 
three days. Birds should be carefulh/ dry-picked if feathers are 
wished, and if the wings are wanted, cut them off at the first joint be- 
fore picking. Some then remove all feathers that come off easily, 
plunge for an instant inboiling hot water, and finish picking ; while 
others do not put in water at all. When picked, singe, draw, wipe 
clean and remove all shot. Or, a quicker, easier and much nicer way 
is to skin without picking ; if the skin is not broken make a small 
incision in the back and it will easily pull off. It is better not to skin 
ducks and geese, which should be dry-picked, scalded, and rolled in a 
woolen cloth ten or fifteen minutes ; then finish picking and scrape 
the skin if necessary. Singe, draw and dress. Singeing with alco- 
hol is much nicer and cleaner than with paper and does not darken 
the skin. Pour four or five tablespoons in a pan, light it and hold 
game over it. If more alcohol is wished, do not add till all is con- 
Bumed. 

Game should not be washed, unless absolutely necessary for 
cleanliness. With care in dressing, wiping inside with a damp cloth 
will render them perfectly clean. If necessary to wash, do it quickly 
and use as little water as possible. Some wash the inside of game, 
particularly prairie chickens, with soda and Avater, rinsing well with 
clear water, then dry with cloth. The more plainly all kinds of 
wild birds are cooked the better they retain their fine flavor. They 
require a brisker fire than poultry, but take less time to cook. Their 
color, when done, should be a fine yellowish brown. 

Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and all birds 
are exceedingly nice roasted, especially quail. To broil, split down 
the back, open and flatten the breast bone by covering with a cloth 



GAME. 351 

and pounding, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron ; turn as 
soon as browned, and when almost done take off, place on a platter, 
sprinkle with salt, and return to the gridiron. When done, place 
in a hot dish, butter both sides well and serve at once. The time 
required is usually about twenty minutes. Broiling is the simplest 
of all forms of cooking and may be done well with a little attention. 
A brisk, clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with 
ease, but if necessary to have a high fire for other cooking, elevate 
the gridiron on two bricks to prevent scorching. Have the gridiron 
very hot and butter it before putting on the birds. If the fire is not 
very clear, and a flat broiler or gridiron is used, put a cover over the 
meat to prevent blackening or burning. It is well to always do this 
with birds or chickens, which are otherwise apt to be rare at the 
joints. It is a good plan to put birds in a hot oven about ten min- 
utes before broiling, and lay a spoonful drawn butter on the breast 
of each. If very dry dip in melted butter, or, better still, oil them 
all over before cooking. There is nothing more unsightly than a 
dish of sprawling chickens or birds, and to serve them in good form 
they should be nicely placed in the broiler, with the bones broken as 
above. 

To Roast Game. — Rub inside with salt and pepper and place a 
lump of butter in each bird. Truss the same as poultry, skewer and 
place on spit before an open fire, or, as is more usually done, roast 
in oven. Some still prefer the old way of leaving the head on and 
tucking under the wing, but this is not much practiced now. Cut 
off" the head, push the skin down and cut off the neck, then draw the 
skin smoothly over and fasten to the back. The flavor is best pre- 
served without stuffing, but a plain bread-dressing with a piece of 
salt pork or ham skewered on the breast is very nice. A delicate 
way of dressing small birds is to place an oyster dipped in the well- 
beaten yolk of an egg or in melted butter, and then rolled in bread 
crumbs, inside each bird. Allow thirty minutes to roast, or longer 
if stuffed. Wild ducks, pheasants, prairie chickens and grouse are 
always best roasted. Do not sprinkle the outside of game or any 
meat with salt or p^epper before putting in oven, as salt draws out 
the juices, the flavor of pepper is entirely changed by the parch- 
ing on the surface, and it also emits an unpleasant odor. This ap- 
plies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper the bird after it is 
cooked, using white pepper. Baste often, every five or ten minutes. 



352 GAME. 

with melted butter, hot water and butter or the drippings in the 
pan, and to give a handsome frothy appearance, when nearly done 
baste with butter, dredge over with flour and brown, baste with but- 
ter again, close the oven a few moments and the bird will come out 
beautifully finished. Use an empty spice-box with perforated top 
for dredging and a brush or spoon for basting; the brush is espe- 
cially nice for putting over the melted butter in frothing. To keep 
hot while making the gravy, place in a pan on a trivet in the oven, 
or in a colander lined with soft paper, and if in danger of becomiui; 
too brown, cover with another pan, or a paper cap kept for the pur 
pose. Larding game is a very nice way of preparing it for roasting, 
and will be found fully described in Meats. 

To Steam Game., prepare as for roasting, place in steamer and 
steam until tender. The length of time will of course depend upon 
size and kind of game. When tender put in oven to brown, baste, 
and finish as in roasting. As the meat of most game is rather dry, 
this is an excellent mode of cooking, the steaming making it more 
moist. 

To Fry Game, prepare small birds as for roasting, and cut up 
the larger ones. Small birds maybe double-breaded (see Croquettes) 
and dropped whole into hot fat, others cut up and fried in joints. 
Pigeons and the birds of coarser flesh will need to be parboiled if 
fried thus. Half drippings and half lard make a good frying mixture. 
Some prefer to roll game in corn meal and fry in butter, or half but- 
ter and half drippings, in frying pan, and it is excellent either way 
but presents a finer appearance when fried by immersion. 

Pigeons should be cooked a long time, as they are usually quite 
lean and tough, and they are better to lie in salt water half an hour, 
or to be parboiled in it for a few minutes. Wild duck should l)e 
cooked rare, with or without stuffing. If the "wild flavor" of the 
larger birds, such as pheasants, prairie chickens, etc., is disliked, 
thev may be soaked overnight in salt water, or two or three hours 
in soda and water, or parboiled with an onion or two in the water, 
and then cooked as desired. The coarser kinds of game, such as 
geese, ducks, etc., may lie in salt water for several, hours, or be par- 
boiled in it with an onion inside each to absorb the rank flavor, and 
afterwards thoroughly rinsed in clear water, stuffed and roasted ; or 
pare a fresh lemon without breaking the thin, white, inside skin, 
put inside the game for a day or two, renewing the lemon every 



GAME. 353 

twelve hours. This will absorb unpleasant flavors from almost all 
meat and game. Some lay slices of onion over game while cook- 
ing, and raanove before serving, and others baste two or three times 
at first with hot water, to which an onion and a little salt have been 
added. Use plenty of butter in cooking. In preparing fat wild 
ducks for invalids, it is a good plan to remove the skin, and keep a 
day or two before cooking. Squirrels should be carefully skinned 
and laid in salt water a short time before cooking ; if old, parboil. 
They are delicious broiled, and are excellent cooked in any way 
with thin slices of bacon. Venison, as in the days of good old Isaac, 
is still justly considered a "savoury dish." The haunch, neck, 
shoulder and saddle should be roasted ; roast or broil the breast, 
and fry or broil steaks with slices of salt pork, and it may be cooked 
ill almost the same manner as beef, but requires longer cooking, 
must be sent to table very hot, and is generally preferred very rare. 
Venfson is not so delicate when fresh as after it has been kept from 
three to eight days. When not consumed at once keep in a dark 
cool cellar with a cloth round it. The hams are excellent pickled, 
smoked and dried, but they will not keep so long as other smoked 
meats. French cooks improve the flavor of venison by putting the 
meat in a jar for several days with one pint vinegar to every six 
pounds meat, two bay leaves, two cloves, some garlic and onion 
sliced, thyme, parsley and whole pepper-corns. Let this mixture 
boil once, then pour it over the meat, and turn occasionally while it 
stands in the jar. Cutlets preimred this way are much better. The 
seasonings are spread over them, they are then wrapped in buttered 
paper and broiled over a quick fire. 

Bear meat, especially the flesh of young bear, nearly resembles 
a good quality of beef, and may be fried, broiled, roasted, or cooked 
like beef in any way preferred. Many lard it for roasting, and the 
time required is about twenty minutes to the pound. The meat of 
young buffalo is also much like that of fat beef and may be cooked 
as fresh beef. 

Any kind of game may be hashed and the flavor may be varied 
by adding flavored vinegars, curry powder, etc. ; but we do not 
recommend these ingredients, as a dish of game should really taste 
of game ; and if too many sauces, essences, etc., are added to the 
gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavor. In warming 
over cold game, do not cook too long — merely heat through or bring 



354 GAME. 

to the boil, but do not boil. In serving game the beauty of the dish 
is gi'eatly enhanced by a garnish of green leaves, or other things 
mentioned with the recipes, but this is not a necessity.. Ejaicures 
generally do not consider game ripe for cooking until more or less 
tainted, and prefer it cooked ver}'- rare, barely more tlian warmed 
through. Small birds aie also often roasted or made into pies with- 
out drawing, or removing the trail as it is called, and are esteemed 
very dainty by the epicures, among whom, however, are numbered 
very few of our excellent American housekeepers. 



Boiled Wild Duck. — Dress and rub well inside with salt and 
pepper, truss and tie in shape, drawing the legs in to the body, in 
which put one or two sage leaves, a little finely-chopped onion, and 
a little jellied stock or gravy; rub over with salt and pepper; make 
a paste in the proportion of one-half pound butter to one poimd 
flour, in which inclose the duck, tie a cloth around all, and boil two 
hours or until quite tender, keeping it well covered with boiling 
water. Serve by pouring round it brown gravy made as follows : 
Put a lump of butter size of an egg in a saucepan with a little 
minced onion ; cook until slightly brown, then add a small table- 
spoon flour, stir well, and when quite brown add a half pint stock 
or water; let cook a few minutes, strain and add to the chopped 
giblets, previously stewed till tender. 

Broiled Wild Duck. — Carefully pluck a pair of ducks, singe, 
wipe them with a wet towel, split down the back, and remove the 
entrails without breaking ; put the birds between the bars of a but- 
tered gridiron, place the inside to the fire, and broil them until 
brown ; then brown the outside, season with salt and cayenne, put a 
very little butter over the birds, and serve with orange salad or jelly. 
For Baked Wild Duck prepare in same manner and bake in hot 
oven till tender, placed in a dripping pan with a little butter. When 
half done season with salt and just before removing from oven pep- 
per and serve with the gravy from pan and a dish of currant jelly or 
damson jam. 

Hashed Wild Duck. — Cut remains cold roast duck into neat 
joints, put them into a stewpan with one pint good brown gravy, 
two tablespoons bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to 
taste and a tablespoon lemon or Seville orange juice ; let them heat 
gradually, stirring occasionally; when on the point of boiling, serve, 
and garnish the dish with croutons of toasted bread. 

Rapout of Wild Duck. — Ducks that have been dressed and left 
from the preceding day will answer for this dish. Cut into joints, 



GAME. 855 

reserve the legs, wings and breasts until wanted ; put the trimmings 
into a stewpan with four shallots and a pint stock, simmer about 
half an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a tablespoon butter into a 
stewpan ; when melted, dredge in a little flour, and pour in the 
grav}^ made from the bones; boil and strain again; add juice of 
half"^a lemon and cayenne and salt to taste ; lay in the pieces of 
duck, and gradually warm through, but do not boil, or the meat will 
be hard. The gravy should not be too thick, and should be very 
highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great im- 
provement to this dish. 

Roast Wild Duck. — The peculiar flavor of wild ducks is not 
liked by many and may be removed by parboiling with a carrot or 
an onion before roasting, having first singed them, wiped well the in- 
side with wet towel and cut off head. When tender stuff with a 
bread-dressing seasoned with salt, pepper, onion and sage ; roast be- 
fore a brisk fire or in oven, basting often, until brown and tender. 
When the ducks are taken up, skim and thicken the gravy with 
browned flour and send to table in a tureen. Serve currant or grape 
jelly with the ducks. Instead of the stuffing, a simple dressing of 
parboiled onions mixed with chopped sage, salt, pepper and a good 
slice of butter may be employed, or stuff' with chopped celery or 
mashed potatoes and when brown season with salt and pepper. It 
will take about three-quarters of an hour to roast ducks well ; 
twenty minutes will do them rare. When preferred rare it is 
best not to stuff them. Cut an onion in two and put in the 
body, then truss or bind, dredge with salt, pepper and cloves and 
roast in quick oven thirty minutes or before a hot fire forty, basting 
often. Serve with currant jelly or equal parts currant jelly and dry 
mustard mixed, or with garnish of fried hominy and currant jelly, 
or apple sauce and green peas. Teal can be cooked like Wild Duck. 
Many cooks stuftHhem with a bread and onion dressing, but this 
spoils their flavor ; it is better to serve an onion and bread sauce 
with them, if liked. The birds should be quickly roasted or baked 
in a hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes, as they are liked 
medium or well done. Season with pepper and salt and serve a 
sliced lemon or fresh green salad with them. 

Stewed Wild Duck. — Cut up and parboil fifteen minutes with 
a carrot or onion ; cut into joints, put in a stewpan and cover with 
a gravy made of the giblets,' neck, etc. ; season with salt and pepper, 
a bunch sweet herbs and chopped onions, and stew gently till clone. 
Take up the meat, thicken the gravy with browned flour, boil up 
once, pour over the duck and serve immediately. Or for a Sieii:! with. 
Oreen Peas, parboil, or half roast, then put into a stewpan with a 
pint water, or beef gravy, a few chopj)ed mint and sage leaves, pej)- 
per, salt and half an onion chopped very fine. Cook fifteen minutes 
and skim out the herbs ; then add a quart green peas and cook half 



356 GAME. 

hour longer. Stir in a tablespoon each butter and flour, boil up 
once, and serve with the duck in center of dish and peas around. 
Some prefer to cook the peas separately and serve rounded up in 
center with the joints around. Some stuff and roast the ducks 
twenty minutes then take out and stew as above. Duck Stewed loith 
Rice is liked by many. To prepare, quickly brown the duck in a 
hot oven; meantime peel an onion, chop it fine, and put into a 
saucepan with heaping tablespoon butter ; when the duck is brown, 
cut in joints, put with the butter an onion, and fry all together till 
the onion is brown ; then stir in a tablespoon flour and brown it, 
add a pint of boiling water, a high seasoning of salt and pepper, and 
half a cup of rice which has been picked over and washed. Cover 
and cook all gently half an hour, being careful not to burn. If rice 
absorbs all the Avater, add more as required, but do not make very 
moist. When both rice and duck are tender, serve them together. 
The remains of a cold roast duck may be made into a stew with a 
pint gravy and a little sage ; cover closely, and simmer half an hour ; 
add a pint boiled green peas, stew a few minutes, remove to a dish, 
and pour over it the gravy and peas. 

Salmi of Duck. — Save remnants of cold duck or other game, 
trim meat off neatly, set aside; place all the remains (bones, gravy, 
etc.,) in a saucepan and cover Avith cold water; bring gently to a 
boil ; skim, add an onion that has been cut up and fried brown {not 
hurned) ', simmer gently for about an hour, then set saucepan 
in a cool place long enough to allow the fat to rise and ''settle on 
top ;" skim this ofl* care fully — it will be nice to fry potatoes with. 
Now return saucepan to fire, and when about to l)oil strain off liquid ; 
set on again, add salt and skim. If the liquid looks cloudy, let it 
boil up, throw in a little cold water, and the scum will rise. Now 
put in the pepper and such spice as may be desired, also a bunch of 
herbs tied up in a piece of muslin, or very finely powdered. Take 
a large spoon of flour that has been baked in the oven and kept for 
gravy, mix it Avell with a lump of Dutter same size, put this and the 
meat all in together and stir well until it is just ready to boil again, 
but see that it does not boil; cover closely and set back Avhere it 
may keep vevi/ hot without cooking. The safest plan is to put the 
saucepan in a vessel of hot water for ten or fifteen minutes. 

Boast Wild Goose. — Dry pick, as feathers are especially choice, 
and if possible pick clean, as meat is nicer if not scalded, but if all 
cannot be removed, plunge in boiling water, wrap quickly in a 
woolen cloth and let stand fifteen minutes, when finish picking and 
scrape with a knife to better clean the skin, singe with alcohol, draw, 
wash or wipe clean andparboil withan onion inside (alarge onion to 
an eight-pound goose) in slightly salted boiling water till commenc- 
ing to be tender, half an hour for a young goose, longer if an old one. 
Take out, rub inside with salt and pepper and stuff with a Bread- 



aAME. 357 

Dressing as given in first recipe for Roast Turkey, or as follows : 
Quart finely minced bread-crumbs, tablespoon minced onion, level 
teaspoon each salt, pepper, sage and chopped parsley if liked, one 
egg, half cup warm water, half cup butter or fat from fried sausage; 
mix ingredients all together in a pan, not making the dressing 
too moist, as it will absorb gravy while baking. The egg should be 
first mixed with the water. Or stuff with a Potato- Dressing made 
as follows : Mash six boiled potatoes through a colander, and add 
two teaspoons each butter and onion juice, and one each salt, white 
pepper and sage ; or first chop an onion and fry a light yellow in the 
butter, and add the potato and a well-beaten egg. Or for an Onion- 
Dressing, peel four large onions, put into boiling water, let simmer 
five or ten minutes and just before they are taken out put in ten 
sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness, skim out 
and chop very iine, add quarter pound bread-crumbs, seasoning, and 
two tablespoons butter, and work the whole together with yolk of 
an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather 
highly seasoned, and many do not parboil the onions, but merely 
use them raw. The stuffing then is not nearly so mild. This is 
nice for either goose, ducks or pork. If for goose add the liver, first 
simmered a few moments and then very finely minced. Or, boil in 
water to cover four apples, peeled and cored, four onions, sage and 
thyme leaves. When done, pulp through a sieve, removing leaves ; 
then add enough pulp of mealy potatoes to cause stuffing to be so dry as 
not to stick to hand. Season with pepper and salt. For a Fruit- Dress- 
ing^ stew one pound prunes as in recipe for stewed prunes, us^ing as lit- 
tle water as possible, and add to them same quantity of tart apple sauce 
and a few raisins if liked, and let stew together till quite dry, adding 
sugar to taste (some prefer twice as much apple sauce as prunes) ; stuff 
as above or, when bread-dressing is used, itis very nice to garnish with 
spoonfuls of this around the goose \ or omit prunes and use teacup 
raisins, using raisins also in the gravy ; or take three quarters pound 
pulp of tart apples, which have been previously baked or steamed, 
add two ounces bread-crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely chop- 
ped onion, and season with a little cayenne pepper. After goose is 
stuffed, sew up and tie in shape as described in recipe for roast tur- 
key. Place in oven on dripping pan, on a trivet or pieces of hard 
wood, with a little of the Avater in Avhich goose was parboiled ; put 
bits of butter or slices of fat salt pork over the goose, and to make 
extra nice, unless very fat, add a little butter to the drippings each 
time of basting, which will want to be every ten minutes, adding 
more of the parboiled Avater as needed. Where the onion flavor is 
an objection, simply put hot water in the roasting pan. When al- 
most done baste with melted butter, dredge with flour, let brown, 
then a little more butter till nicely frothed and browned. Some 
claim that a specially nice way to roast is to begin by basting with 
a teacup cider ; then, when it begins to warm, dredge with flour ; 



358 GAME. 

afterwards baste with its own fat and gravy, mixing with the cider. 
In either way, when browned, place in pan in oven, as directed, till 
gr^vy is made, using the giblets in the same manner, if good, 
as for Roast Turkey, adding also the parboiled water from the goose. 
Those liking onion flavor can slice onion when used in parboiling, 
putting some slices inside goose and some in kettle, and leave all in 
the water for the gravy. Place goose on hot platter, made hot by 
pouring hot water upon it, being careful to pour in center first ; gar- 
nish with a border of baked, cored, tart apples, being careful not to have 
them bursted. Always serve apple sauce with goose. Wild Duck can 
be prepared in same way. Goose, duck and all game, being rather 
dry, are especially nice larded, but placing pieces of salt pork on 
them while cooking answers the same purpose, but does not present 
the handsome appearance when served as does a Larded Goose. 

Smoked Goose. — Split the goose down the back, rubbing it well 
with quarter ounce saltpetre, afterwards salting with common salt, 
and rubbing with coarse brown sugar ; let it lie in pickle for about 
ten days if it be summer, but fourteen if winter ; rub it and turn it 
regularly every day, roll in saw-dust, and smoke it. The breast 
alone is nice prepared as above. Any wild game can be prepared 
in like manner. 

Braised Grouse. — Clean thoroughly, washing out the inside in 
soda and water, and then rinsing and wiping. Truss, but do not 
stuff the birds ; tie them in shape. Cover the bottom of a saucepan 
with slices of'fat salt pork; lay the grouse upon these ; sprinkle 
minced onion and parsley over them, with pepper, salt and a little 
sugar. Cover them with more pork, and pour in a large cup of 
soup stock, or other broth. Cover very closely ; simmer one hour; 
turn the birds and cook — always covered — until tender. Dish the 
grouse, strain the gravy, thicken with browned flour, boil up and 
pour into gravy-boat. Patridges and Wild Pigeons may also be 
cooked in this way. 

Roast Grouse. — Clean and wash the birds, lard breast and legs 
run a skewer into the legs and through the tail, and tie firmly with 
twine. Dredge with salt, rub the breast with soft butter and dredge 
thickly Avith flour. Put into a quick oven and cook twenty minutes 
if wanted very rare ; if wished better done, thirty minutes. Baste 
often. Serve on toast which has been soaked in the dripping-pan 
and buttered, or on bread sauce sprinkled with fried bread-crumbs, 
and garnish with parsley. Or clean, truss, and stuff the birds ; cover 
with thin slices of corned ham, binding all with buttered pack 
thread. Roast three-quarters of an hour, basting Avith butter and 
water three times, then with the dripping. When quite done, dish 
with the ham laid about the body of the bird. Skim the gravy, 
thicken with browned flour, and season with pepper and the juice of 



GAME. 359 

a lemon. Or put a tablespoon butter in each bird, then lay each 
one, covered Avith strips of bacon, on a slice of dry toast in the drip- 
ping-pan ; as soon as they begin to get at all dry moisten them well 
with stock, and baste and turn them several times. Serve on a hot 
platter garnished with parsley or cress, and the toast (which will be 
delicious) cut in points. 

Grouse Pie. — Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound rump- 
steak cut into neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them 
into joints ; but if small, they may be laid in the pie whole ; season 
highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour in a half pint 
broth, and cover with a puff paste ; brush the crust over with the 
yolk of an egg, and bake about an hour. If the grouse is cut into 
joints, the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy, by stew- 
ing them with an onion, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of "mace ; this 
should be poured in after the pie is baked 

Grouse Salad. — Boil eight eggs hard, throw them into cold 
water and shell, cut a thin slice off the bottom so they will stand in 
dish, cut each one into four pieces, lengthwise, and make a very thin 
flat border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the 
salad is to be served on; place the pieces of egg upright, close to 
each other, the yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately ; lay 
in the center a fresh green salad of whatever is in season, and, hav- 
ing previously roasted the grouse rather underdone, cut it into 
eight or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as follows : Put one 
tablespoon chopped shallot or onion into a bowl with two table- 
spoons sugar, the yolk of an egg, a teaspoon minced parsley, tea- 
spoon and half salt, and stir in gradually four tablespoons Chili 
vinegar and twelve of oil ; when all ingredients are well mixed put the 
sauce on ice or in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip four 
tablespoons cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it; then lay 
inferior parts of grouse on the salad, put sauce over so as to cover 
each piece, then add more salad and the remainder of the grouse, 
pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be orna- 
mented with a little dot of radishes or beet-root on the point. An- 
chovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds may be placed be- 
tween; or cut gherkins in slices, and use as aborder. The remains 
of Cold Pheasant or Partridge may be used in same manner, and 
will make a very delicate dish. 

Grouse Sandioiches. — Chop cold grouse very fine, and then 
pound in a mortar, or rub through a sieve with a potato-masher; 
mix the pounded meat with an equal quantity currant jelly, and 
put it between thin slices of bread without crust. Or cut 'the" meat 
in small thin slices, and put it between leaves of lettuce laid on thin 
slices of buttered bread ; the lettuce leaves may be dipped in plain 
salad-dressing, made by mixing three tablespoons salad oil with one 



360 GAME. 

of vinegar, and a seasoning of salt and pepper, or sauce of currant 
jelly and mustard may be used. 

Jugged Hare. — Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water, 
to remove the loose hairs, dry thoroughly and cut in pieces, strew 
with pepper and salt, fry brown, season with two anchovies, a sprig 
of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and grated 
lemon peel. Put a layer of the pieces with the seasoning into a 
wide-mouthed jug or jar, then a layer of bacon sliced very thin, and 
so on till all is used ; add a scant half pint of water, cover the jug 
close and put in cold water, let boil three or four hours, according 
to the age of the hare ; take the jug out of kettle, pick out the un- 
melted bacon and make a gravy of a little butter and flour Avith a 
little catsup. A teaspoon of lemon peel will heighten the flavor. 

Eoast Hare. — Have the hare skinned and well cleaned, stuff" as 
fowl, with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, chopped fat pork, a little 
sweet majoram, onion, pepper and salt, just moistened with hot 
water. Sew up with fine cotton, tie legs closely to the body in a 
kneeling position, lay in dripping-pan, back uppermost, pour two 
cups boiling water over it, cover with another pan and bake, closely 
covered — except when basting with butter and water — for three C[uar- 
ters of an hour. Uncover, baste freely with the gravy until nicely 
browned ; dredge with flour and baste with butter until a fine 
froth appears on the surface. Take up hare, put in another pan on 
a trivet or rack and place in oven while gravy is being made. Skim 
that left in the pan, add water if necessary, season, thicken with 
browned flour, stir in tablespoon currant jelly and some chopped 
parsley, boil up, pour a few spoonfuls of it over the hare, and serve 
the rest in a gravy-boat. Clip the threads and send the hare in with 
currant jelly around it, as this is an indispensable accompaniment. 
Some baste well with milk for a short time, and afterwards with but- 
ter, basting often so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and 
nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and 
baste well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish, remove the tAvine, 
and send to table with a little gra^y in dish, and a gravy-boat of same. 
For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for milk and 
butter in basting, which must be continued almost without inter- 
mission. If liver is good, it may be parboiled, mincedj and mixed 
with the stuff'ing ; but it should not be used unless quite fresh. The 
Jack Rabbit of our western prairies is said to be closely akin to the 
much prized English hare and equally as fine eating. Some broil 
slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the flesh, then cover with 
slices of fat pork from the neck to the legs, roast it for an hour, 
and serve with sharp sauce to which has been added the chopped 
liver. 

Landrails — After birds have been drawn they should be Aviped 
very clean with a damp cloth. They must be continuously basted 



GAME. 861 

with butter, and will take about fifteen minutes to cook. Put them 
on a layer of fried bread-crumbs on an exceedingly hot dish. Send 
to table with a tureen of bread sauce, and one of good gravy. This 
is a nice side dish. 

Hashed Partridge. — Take three partridges and after they are 
plucked and drawn, roast rather underdone, covering with paper, 
as they should not be browned; cut into joints, take off the skin 
from the wings, legs and breasts ; put these into a stewpan, cover 
and set by until gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small 
pieces, and put into a stewpan with a sliced carrot, three or four 
mushrooms, three sliced shallots, a bunch of savory herbs, two 
cloves, and six whole peppers, and fry lightly in a little butter, pour 
in three-fourths pint stock, add the bones and trimmings from the 
partridges, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain the gravy, let cool, 
and skim off" every particle of fat ; put it to the legs, wings, and 
breasts ; let all gradually Avarm through on back of stove, and 
when on the point of boiling, serve, garnishing the dish with crou- 
tons. The remains of roast partridge do very well dressed in this 
way, although not so good as when the birds are only half roasted. 
This recipe is equally good for Pheasants, Prairie Chickens., etc., 
but care must be taken always to skin the joints. 

Potted Partridge. — Pluck and draw the partridges and wipe 
inside with a damp cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, Avhite 
pepper and salt, mix together and rub every part of the birds with 
this. Pack as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of 
butter over, and cover with a coarse flour-and-water crust. Tie a 
paper over this, and bake rather more than cne aird a half hours ; 
let the birds get cold, then cut into pieces for keeping, pack closely 
in large potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be 
kept in a cool dry place. The butter used for potting game will 
answer for basting, or for paste for meat-pies. 

Poast Partridge. — Clean and wash out the inside with soda 
water, afterwards rinsing in fresh water. Unjoint the legs at the 
first joint, truss and cover breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork, 
tying the pork on with twine. Place the partridge on its back in 
the baking-pan with a piece of butter the size of a Avalnut on it ; set 
it in a quick oven, baste often with butter and serve on a dish sur- 
rounded by bread-crumbs fried brown and arranged in small heaps ; 
pour over the bird a gravy made from the drippings in pan thickened 
with browned flour and flavored with lemon juice. Or spread thin 
slices of ham or bacon over the entire bird and tie on with twine, 
lemoving just in time to brown nicely. 

Stewed Partridges. — Prepare two young partridges as for roast- 
ing, lard the breasts with three ox four strips fat bacon, cutting off 
the ends, and place the birds in a stew pan, with a cabbage cut in 



362 GAME. 

quarters and heart removed, over them ; put in also a carrot, an 
onion stuck with a clove, bunch sweet herbs, quarter teaspoon pep- 
per, quarter pound Bologna sausage (uncooked) and half pound 
rather lean bacon, slightly freshened. Put in broth or stock to 
cover and a half cup good drippings. Cover closely, first placing a 
cloth over stewpan, then fitting in the cover and simmer an hour 
and a half. Take out the meat and place in oven to keep hot, drain 
the cabbage and stir in a pan over fire with seasoning of salt and 
pepper until free from moisture, then place a layer on a dish, take 
out and undo the birds and lay them around the outer edge and 
put more cabbage in center. Cut the sausage and bacon in slices 
and serve as a garnish with the sliced carrot. Make a brown gravy 
in the stewpan and send to table with it. 

Partridge Pie. — Line a deep pie dish with veal cutlets and over 
them place a slice of ham and seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, 
draw and wipe the partridges, cut off legs at first joint and season 
inside with salt, pepper, minced parsley and a small piece butter, 
place in dish and pour in half pint any stock, or water and table- 
spoon butter will do ; line edge with puff-paste and cover with same, 
bake three-quarters of an hour, brush over with the Roll Glaze or 
simply a yolk of egg and bake fifteen minutes longer. If partridges 
are large, split in two. 

Partridges with Mushrooms. — Prepare brace of young part- 
ridges, dredge a little flour over and brown them equally and lightly 
in hot butter. Put them side by side into a stewpan, pour in as 
much rich brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, as will 
half cover them, and stew very gently until half done. Turn them 
over, put in with them two dozen small mushrooms, and simmer 
again until the birds are done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with 
the sauce poured over them. 

Rissoles of Partridge. — Take three roast partridges, one half 
cup mushrooms, one cup each butter, flour, cream, and broth or 
water, a slight grating of nutmeg, a little lemon juice, pepper and 
salt. Cut meat into the smallest dice, mince the mushrooms and 
add, sprinkle with a teaspoon of mixed pepper and salt, grate a lit- 
tle nutmeg and squeeze a lemon over. Make a cream sauce by stir- 
ring the butter and flour together in a saucepan and adding the 
broth and cream when it begins to bubble, and when the sauce is 
ready moisten the meat with it, stir up well and set it away to be- 
come cold. Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, roll 
in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard. 
Pile in the dish and garnish Avith fried parsley. 

Broiled Pheasant. — Scald and skin, cut the breast in two and 
the rest in joints, being careful to remove all shot ; put in hot water all 
except the breast (which will be tender enough without parboiling) 




GAME. 363 

and boil until it can be pierced with fork ; take out, rub over salt 
and butter, and broil with breast over brisk fire ; place a lump of 
butter on each piece, season with pepper and set 
all in the oven for a few minutes. For breakfast, 
serve on fried mush, and for dinner, on toast with 
a bit of currant jelly over each piece, or with Sara- 
PheasantwithPotatces.^ toga potatocsiii ceutcr. Or it may be served 

with toast cut in pieces about two inches square, over which pour 
gravy made by thickening the liquor in which the birds were boiled 
with a little butter and llour rubbed together and stirred in while 
boiling. This is more appetizing but not as handsome a method of 
serving as above. Garnish with water-cresses, pepper-grass or other 
greens. Or put pieces into a frying-pan with a little lard, and when 
browned on both sides, and about half done, take out and drain ; 
brush the pieces over with egg. and sprinkle with bread-crumbs with 
which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil 
over moderate fire about ten minutes, or rather longer, and serve 
with mushroom sauce, sauce piquant, or brown gravy in which a 
few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed. Prairie Chick- 
ens, Partridges and Squirrels may be prepared same way. 

Roast Pheasant. — The bird should be carefully plucked, drawn 
and singed, then stuff with a dressing made as follows : Take two 
snipes and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the liv- 
ers, etc., on another. Take off" the flesh and mince it finely with a 
little beef, lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt ■^ ^anmtiamm^ 

to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully with ^iiiliilw 

this. Cut a slice of bread, larger than the ^^^^jJI^ ^BBIi^ ^ 
bird, and cover it with the liver, etc., a ^^^^^"" -----^--Sy 
few truffles, with an anchovy and a little fresh Roast Pheasant 

butter added, if liked. Put the bread thus prepared, into the drip- 
ping-pan, and when the bird is roasted place it on the preparation, 
and surround with Florida oranges. lioast Prairie Chickens and 
Partridges are equally delicious. 

Pheasant Ciitlets. — Procure three young pheasants that have 
been hung for a few days ; pluck, draw, and wipe them inside ; cut 
into joints ; remove the bones from the best of these ; put the back- 
bones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, 
vegetables and seasoning to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the 
cutlets to a good shape, egg and bread-crumb them, broil over a clear 
fire, pile high in a dish, and pour under them the gravy made from 
the bones, Avhich should be strained, flavored and thickened. One of 
the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet. 

Eoast Pigeons. — Only young and tender pigeons should be 
roasted. Dress carefully, ?nd after washing clean, wipe dry and put 
into each bird a small piece of butter dipped in cayenne. Or fill 




364 GAME. 

them with a stufl5ng of bread-crumbs, a tablespoon butter, a little 
salt and nutmeg, and three oysters to each bird (some prefer chop- 
ped apple). Truss the wings over the back and roast at least thirty 
minutes in a quick oven, keeping constantly basted with butter. 
Dish with young water-cresses, or a garnish of parsley and serve 
with browned gravy. Or they may be roasted with a slice of bacon 
over the breasts. 

Stewed Pigeons. — Put the pigeons in a large stewpan with a cup 
water to keep from burning and a tablespoon butter for each bird. 
Cover, and simmer slowly until a nice dark brown. Turn occas- 
sionally and see that each is well placed in the liquor. When about 
half done take out and set in oven or over hot water to keep hot 
while a gravy is made. Chop the giblets ver}'- fine, with a little 
onion and parsley. Put into the gravy, pepper and salt, boil up 
and thicken with browned flour. Put the pigeons back in the pan, 
cover tightly and cook slowly until tender. If there is not enough 
liquor for the gravy, add boiling water before putting in the giblets. 
Or put slices of bacon in bottom of stewpan ; lay in the pigeons, 
side by side, carefully-tied in shape, all their breasts 
uppermost ; add a sliced carrot, an onion with a 
clove stuck in, a teaspoon sugar, and chopped __,.^^_^,^^^^^^_ 
parsley, and pour over enough stock or boiling stewed' pigeons, 
water to cover them. Put thin slices of bacon over the pigeons ; 
cover them as closely as possible, adding boiling water or stock when 
necessary, and simmer until very tender. Serve each pigeon on a 
thin piece of buttered toast, and for an extra dish with a border of 
spinach, or make little nets of spinach on pieces of toast, putting a 
pigeon into each nest. For Pigeons a la Mode, make a stuffing of 
bits of salt pork, dry bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
thyme, and one egg. Stuff" each bird, lay in a stewpan, cover 
with water, and add a little thyme and the juice of a lemon. Cook 
until tender and serve with a gravy made as above. 

Pigeon Pie. — Make either a fine puff* paste or a rich baking 
powder crust, as liked ; lay a border of it around a large dish, and 
cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a very tender steak free from 
fat and bone ; season with salt, cayenne pepper and mace. Prepare 
as many pigeons as can be put in one layer in the dish ; put in each 
pigeon a small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt ; lay 
them in the dish breast downwards, and cut in slices a half dozen 
hard-boiled eggs, and put with them ; put in more butter, some veal 
broth and cover the whole with crust. Bake slowly an hour and a 
half. The pigeons may first be fried a light brown in butter. Or 
split the birds and cut in quarters and put in first a layer of steak, 
then one of pigeons and then one of sausage meat highly seasoned 
wdth salt, pepper and powdered allspice, then another layer of each 
until all are used. Pour in just enough hot water to moisten and 



GAME. 365 

cover the pie with crusl^ wetting the edges to make them adhere ; 
cut little slits in the crust to permit the steam to escape ; brush the 
crust with beaten egg and bake in moderate oven two hours. For 
another excellent pie take about eight pigeons or other small birds, 
and make a stuffing of bread and onions. Stuff each bird, then put 
into a stewpan about a tablespoon lard, and a dessert-spoon flour 
and broAvn nicely ; cut a small onion very fine and fry it, adding 
the birds which should fry awhile before putting a pint of water 
over them, and let them boil until done. Take them out ; add about 
two dozen oysters, with a little of the oyster-water, to gravy, a table- 
spoon batter, salt, black pepper, allspice, and nutmeg ; line a bak- 
ing-dish with pastry, put the birds in with the gravy, cover with the 
pastry and bake. 

Pot-Roast of Prairie Chickens. — Skin, draw, wash, wipe dry, 
tie in shape without stuffing, and parboil in water to cover ; cook till 
tender, adding more water if necessary. Take out chicken and pour 
broth in crock to keep for gravy. Put two tablespoons butter in ket- 
tle, let brown, put in chicken and keep turning it till nearly browned, 
about five or ten minutes, then add pint broth in which it was par- 
boiled, put on cover and let cook till almost dry, then add more 
broth, season with salt and pepper and keep cooking and adding 
broth till chicken is done, and there is a pint of rich brown gravy 
left in kettle. Take out chicken, put in pan in oven to keep hot, 
and make a Sour Cream Gravy by adding one pint sour cream, and 
one tablespoon baking molasses. Thicken with a tablespoon flour 
stirred smooth in a little cream, either sweet or sour, let boil five 
minutes and then -serve chicken on hot platter, garnished, if liked, 
with parsley, and gravy in gravy boat. Pheasants, Quail, Duck. 
Spring Chickens and any small game are nice cooked as above, and 
the gravy can be made in same way where game is roasted in oven. 

Roast Prairie Chickens. — Skin or pluck them, as preferred, cut 
ofl* head and feet, and draw without breaking intestines, wash, and 
for each bird put a tablespoon finely chopped onion in a frying-pan 
over the fire with two heaping tablespoons finely-chopped salt pork 
or butter ; as soon as the onion is brown add a heaping cup soft 
bread-crumbs, a level teaspoon each salt and any powdered sweet 
herb except sage, a saltspoon pepper, and a tablespoon butter ; use 
this as soon as hot for stuffing the birds, and either put them 
before a good fire to roast, or in a dripping-pan set in a hot oven ; 
cook about half an hour, basting occasionally with drippings from 
them ; when done keep hot while a gravy is made as follows : Place 
the dripping-pan over fire ; for each bird stir in a level tablespoon 
flour until it is brown, and then gradually stir in a scant pint boil- 
ing water ; season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let boil 
two or three minutes, and serve with the birds. Garnish with sprigs 
of parsley alternated with currant jelly. A delicious sauce can be 



366 GAME. 

made by mixing half a glass currant jeily for each bird with the 
drippings in the pan, and stirring the sauce over the fire until it 
boils to the proper consistency ; another excellent cold sauce is 
made by mixing a tablespoon dry mustard thoroughly with a glass 
of currant jelly. Plain boiled potatoes, or potatoes re-warmed, with 
butter, salt and pepper, may be served with the birds. Hoast Pheas- 
ant and Partridge the same way. 

Steamed Prairie Chicken. — Wash thoroughly but quickly, 
using some soda in the water, rinse and dry, fill with dressing, sew 
up with cotton thread, and tie down the legs and wings ; place in a 
steamer over hot water till done, remove to a dripping-pan, cover 
with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place 
in the oven and baste with the melted butter until a nice brown ; 
serve with either apple sauce, cranberries, or currant jelly. 

Stewed Prairie Chicken. — Cut in joints, put over the fire in a 
saucepan with butter and brown quickly ; for each bird add half a 
glass currant jelly, level teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper and 
sufficient boiling water to cover ; cook slowly until tender, adding a 
little more water if necessary, and serve them on toast, with the 
gravy from the pan poured over. Or, put about tablespoon butter, 
and two of salt pork, cut into bits, in a saucepan, and set on 
quick fire ; when butter is melted put the bird in, and brown it all 
round ; then add four small onions, half a carrot in slices, salt and 
pepper, stir till onions and carrots are partly fried ; then add a pint 
of good broth and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil gently till done. 
Dish the bird, strain the gravy over it, and serve* hot. 

Salmi of Prairie Chickens. — This is an excellent way of serv- 
ing the remains of roasted game ; but when a choice dish is desired, 
the birds must be scarcely more than half roasted. In either case 
cut up neatly, and strip every particle of fat and skin from the legs, 
wings, and breast ; bruise the iDodies well, and put them with the 
skin and other trimmings into a stewpan ; add two or three sliced 
shallots or onions, small blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns; 
pour in a pint or more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil 
briskly until reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the 
bones well to obtain all the flavor, skim ofl* the fat, add a little cay- 
enne and lemon juice and heat the birds very gradually in it with- 
out allowing it to boil ; place bits of fried bread round a dish, 
arrange the birds in the center, give the sauce a boil, and pour it 
over them. Partridges and other wild-fowl can be prepared in 
same way. 

Fried Quail. — Split open on the back and boil until tender ; 
have an equal quantity butter and lard hot in frying-pan, put in the 
birds and fry a nice light brown. Lay the quail on slices of 



GAME. 867 

toasted bread and pour over them a nice gravy made in pan. 
Pheasants naay be cooked in same way, served on platter without 
toast. 

Roast Quail. — Pluck and dress like chickens, wipe clean, and 
rub both inside and out with salt and pepper ; stuft' with any good 
dressing, and sew up with fine thread ; spread with butter and place 
in an oven with a good steady heat, turning and basting often with 
hot water seasoned with butter, salt and pepper; bake three-quar- 
ters of an hour. When about half done add a little hot water to the 
pan, and it is well to place a dripping-pan over them to prevent 
browning too much. Add to the gravy, flour and butter rubbed to- 
gether, and water if needed. Or, when cleaned, cover the birds with 
thin slices of ham or bacon and then wrap in grape leaves or tie in 
buttered paper, place in pan with piece of butter size of hazelnut 
and baste well, adding very little water. While the quail are baking 
cut as many square pieces of bread as there are birds, fry in hot 
lard, put on dish, and when done, lay the birds on them, removing 
the twine which holds the legs, and the paper. Some prefer to re- 
move the papers to brown the birds before taking up. Turn the 
gravy, thickened with the quail livers pounded to a paste, over the 
birds ; decorate the dish with water-cress sprinkled with vinegar or 
lemon juice. Or send to table with a plate of fried bread-crumbs 
and bread sauce in a tureen. In serving put a quail on each plate, 
pour over a tablespoon of the sauce, and on this place a tablespoon 
crumbs, or the sauce-boat and plate of crumbs may be passed separ- 
ately. To make the sauce, roll a pint dry bread-crumbs, and pass 
half of them through a sieve. Put a small onion into a pint milk, 
and when it boils remove the onion, and thicken the milk with the 
half pint sifted crumbs; take it from the fire, and stir in a heaping 
teaspoon butter, a grating of nutmeg, pepper and salt. To prepare 
the crumbs, put a little butter into a saucepan, and when hot throw 
in the half pint of coarser crumbs which remained in the sieve ; stir 
over the fire until they assume a light brown color, taking care that 
they do not burn, and add a small pinch cayenne pepper. 

Steamed Quail. — Clean the birds carefully, using a little soda 
in the water in which they are washed ; rinse, wipe dry, and fill 
with dressing, sewing up nicely, and binding down the legs and 
wings with cords. Put in a steamer over hot water, and let cook 
until just done. Then place in a pan with a little butter ; set them 
in the oven and baste frequently with melted butter until a nice 
brown. They ought to brown nicely in about fifteen minutes. Serve 
on a platter, with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. 

Quail Fricassee. — Prepare six quail as for roasting. Grate the 
crumb of a small stale loaf of bread, scrape one pound fat bacon, 
chop thyme, parsley, an onion and a lemon peel fine, and season 



368 GAME. 

with salt and pepper ; mix with two eggs ; put this forcemeat into 
the quail, lard the breasts and fry_ brown : place them in a stewpan 
with some beef stock and stew three-quarters of an hour ; thicken 
with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with forcemeat balls 
around the dish and strain the gravy over the birds. Pigeon Fricas- 
see is prepared as above. 

Quail on Toast. — Dry pick, singe with paper, cut off heads, and 
disjoint legs at first joint, draw, split down the back, and break 
down breast and backbone so they will lie flat ; soak in salt and 
water for five or ten minutes, drain and dry with a cloth, lard with 
bacon or butter, and rub salt over them, place on broiler and turn 
often , dipping two or three times into melted butter ; broil about 
twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of buttered toast as 
there are birds, and serve a bird, breast upward, on each slice with 
currant jelly. Or cook them, prepared as above, in a covered pan 
in hot oven, with a very little water, until nearly done. Then fry in 
frying-pan with hot butter to a nice brown, and serve on buttered 
toast. Make a sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken lightly with 
browned flour and pour over each quail. Plover and Reed Birds 
may be broiled in same way. Pigeons should be first parboiled and 
then broiled and served same. 

Rabhits. — They are in best condition in mid-winter and are 
prepared for cooking by first skinning by cutting a slit under the 
throat ; as it is pulled off, turn skin over so as to enclose the hair 
that it may not touch the skin ; or cut skin of legs around first joints ; 
loosen skin oft hind legs all around, and cut it inside thighs as far 
as tail, then turn the skin back until the hind legs are free from it, and 
hang up the carcass by them ; next pull the skin downward toward 
the head, slipping out the fore legs when they are reached ; after 
cutting off feet, either cut off head at neck or skin it, and cut off 
end of nose with skin, then draw, wash, wipe dry, and in cooking 
them always lard, or lay or tie pieces of salt pork or bacon over 
them as they are dry meated. 

Boiled Rabbit. — Skin, wash well in cold water, and let soak for 
about fifteen minutes in warm water, to draw out the blood. Bring 
the head round to the side, and fasten it there by means of a skewer 
run through that and the body. Put the rabbit in sufficient hot 
water to cover, let boil very gently until tender, which will be from 
half an hour to an hour, according to its size and age. Dish and 
smother it either with onions, mushroom, or liver sauce, or parsley 
and butter ; the former is, however, generalW preferred to any of 
the last named sauces. When liver sauce is preferred, the liver 
■hould be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very finely, or rubbed 
through a sieve before it is added to the sauce. 



GAME. 369 

Curried Rabbit. — Have the rabbit carefully drawn, skinned 
and washed ; cut into joints ^nd put in stewpan with two tablespoons 
butter or drippings and three sliced onions ; let brown, but not burn ; 
pour in one pint boiling stock ; mix one tablespoon each curr^^ and 
iiour smoothly in a little water, and put in pan with pepper and salt 
and one teaspoon mushroom powder ; some add also a few cloves ; 
simmer half an hour or more; squeeze in juice of half a lemon, a 
little parsley, and serve in the center of a platter with a half pound 
rice, boiled dry, piled round it. Water may be used instead of stock, 
and a little sour apple and grated cocoa-nut stewed with the curry if 
liked. 

Fricasseed Rahhit. — Skin and cut in pieces. Lay in cold water 
a few minutes, drain and put in saucepan with pepper and a quarter 
of a pound of pickled pork, cut in strips. Cover with water, and 
simmer half an hour. Then add an onion chopped, a tablespoon of 
chopped parsley, a blade of mace, and two cloves. Mix to a smooth 
paste a tablespoon flour, stir it in and simmer till meat is tender, 
then stir in half cup rich cream. If not thick enough add a little 
more flour. Boil up once and serve. Or for a Creoled Rahbit, put 
pieces in an earthen bean-pot with close cover, alternate with lay- 
ers of sliced onions, and season highly with salt and pepper ; cover 
the top with slices of raw ham or bacon, and bake in a moderate 
oveii an hour and three-quarters. Serve hot. 

Fried Rahhit. — When nicely dressed lay it in a pan with cold 
water, add a half cup salt and soak overnight. In the morning 
drain off water, cut up and roll each piece in corn meal and let 
stand till time to cook for dinner ; then rinse, cut up and parboil in 
shghtly salted water, with one large or two small onions sliced in 
it, until tender ; take out, roll in corn meal or equal parts meal and 
flour and fry in a little butter a nice brown. Make a grav}'- in the 
pan or serve with onion sauce. Or, dip the pieces in beaten 
egg, then roll in cracker crumbs and immerse in lard, or half lard 
and beef drippings, or American cooking oil, as fritters, and fry brown. 
Garnish with slices of lemon alternated with green leaves. Some 
prefer to thus soak and parboil rabbits before roasting, thinking it 
gives a more delicate flavor. 

Potted Rahhit. — Cut one large rabbit or two small ones in 
pieces and put it in a stone jar; cut one pound each veal and bacon 
in large dice, mix and add livers and a teaspoon mace, cloves, and 
black pepper, and a teaspoon salt, and fill the spaces between the 

Eieces of rabbit. Lay a thin slice or two of bacon on top and one 
ay leaf, then cover with a lid of plain paste made of flour and water 
only, set the jar in a pan or pot containing water and bake in a slow 
oven three or four hours. There is no water needed in the meat, 
A greased paper on top will keep the paste from burning. When 



370 GAME. 

done, set the jar away to become cold, then pick meat from pieces 
of rabbit and pound "to a paste with veal and bacon and fat, and if 
any gravy at the bottom, boil down almost dry and mix it in. Sea- 
son to taste. Press solid into small jars or cups, and cover the top 
with the clear part of melted butter. Keep tightly covered in a cool 
place. For Sandwiches of Potted Rahhit, make baking powder or 
buttermilk biscuits large in diameter, but thin and flaky, split them, 
spread one half with butter, the other with potted rabbit and place 
them together again. 

Roast Rabbit. — Rub inside with pepper and salt and fill with a 
dressing made of bread-crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, 
and pepper and salt, sew up, rub over with a little butter, or pin on 
it with wooden toothpicks a few slices of salt pork, add a little water 
in the pan, and baste often, or roast without a dressing; and some, 
larding as above, pour boiling water into bottom of pan, cover with 
another pan of equal size, letting rabbit steam half an hour ; then 
take off cover, baste with a little butter, and let brown. Serve with 
mashed potatoes and currant jelly, and always serve a nice pickle 
with any dish of rabbit. 

Roast Reed Birds. — Roasting by suspending on the little wire 
which accompanies the roaster, is the best method ; turn and bs^ste 
frequently ; they are often roasted with a very thin slice of salt pork 
fastened round each with skewer ; serve on toast with the drippings 
from the pan poured over. An oyster rolled in bread-crumbs and 
well seasoned with pepper and salt may be placed in each bird be- 
fore roasting. For Baked Reed Birds, wash and peel Avith as thin 
a paring as possible large potatoes of equal size, cut a deep slice off 
one end of each, and scoop out a part of the potatoes ; drop 
a piece of butter into each bird, pepper and salt, and put it in 
the hollows made in the • potatoes ; put on as covers the 
pieces cut off. and clip the other end for them to stand on ; 
tie them with twine and set in a baking pan upright, with a lit- 
tle water to prevent burning, bake slowly and when done remove 
the twine and tie instead with cord, tape or ribbon and send to table 
on a napkin. Or bake in a dripping-pan with plenty of butter, 
turning to brown both sides. They may also be boiled in crust 
like dumplings. 

Roast Snipe. — Snipe are best roasted with a piece of pork tied 
to the breast and placed before an open fire ; or rub with butter and put 
in pan on trivet or muffin rings without water and cook half an hour, or 
they may be stuffed and baked. In either case serve on toast. Or run 
them on skewers alternately with thin slices of bacon or small sausages, 
and roast as above ; when done season with salt and pepper, and 
serve hot at once on the skewers ; toast can be served with them. 
This is a nice way for all small birds. Serve on toast. 



GAME. S71 

Stewed Sqiiirrel. — Skin as rabbits (see recipe) and cut in 
pieces, discarding the head ; lay them in cold water ; put a large 
tablespoon lard in a stewpan, with an onion sliced, and a tablespoon 
of flour ; let fry until the flour is brown, then put in a pint of water 
the squirrel seasoned with salt and pepper, and cook until tender' 
When half done put in strips of nice puff-paste and a little butter' 

Roast Teal. — Choose fat plump birds, after frost has set in, aS 
they are generally better flavored. Skin, draw, and roast in oven in 
a little butter and water if needed ; serve with a brown or orange 
gravy and garnish with sliced lemon. For Fried Teal, cut up, 
fry in pan, turning to brown both sides, and when done add season- 
ing and half cup currant jelly ; stir teal about in the jelly and serve 
on slices of toast with the jelly turned over each piece. Fried 
6''row56 is prepared in same way, some using only the breast, and 
also Fried Duck. The jelly dressing may be omitted, serving with 
a teaspoon cold currant jelly on each piece instead. 

Broiled Venison. — Cut thin slices from the loin or take cutlets 
from the leg, season Math pepper and salt and broil quickly on but- 
tered gridiron. Or bread the slices before broiling. Dish on hot 
platter with bit of butter under each and serve with a gravy sauce 
or a dish of currant jelly, and for vegetables baked potatoes and 
stewed mushrooms. 

Fried- Venison. — Take slices from the loin or leg and place in 
frying-pan which has been covered to depth of half an inch with 
butter made smoking hot, and quickly brown both sides ; season with 
pepper and salt and put in two tablespoons jelly to each pound 
venison. Slices an inch thick should cook twenty minutes. Serve 
hot with the gravy from pan poured over. It may be fried without 
the jelly but is much nicer with it. 

< 

Hashed Ve^iison. — Remove the bones from cold venison, and 
mince it fine ; to a pint of minced venison allow two tablespoons 
each butter and currant jelly ; heat them together, season the mince 
palatably with salt and pepper, and serve on toast, very hot. Veni- 
son Patties is another good way to utilize bits of cold venison ; chop 
fine, heat with some of the gravy left from dinner, season Avith pep- 
per and salt, then fill patty-pans with the venison and cover the top 
with crust ; bake until crust is done brown. 

Roast Venison. — The haunch, the leg, and the saddle of veni- 
son, which is the double loin, are best for roasting or baking. Wash 
in warm water and dry well with a cloth, season with salt and pep- 
per, and wrap in several sheets of buttered paper or cover with a 
coarse paste made of flour and water, though some use both paper 
and paste, first putting a sheet of white paper, buttered, over the fat, 
then spread with the paste, half an inch thick, and oyer this put a 




372 GAME. 

sheet or two of strong paper, binding the whole firmly on with 
twine ; then either put it before the fire on a spit, or place in a drip- 
ping-pan in very hot oven, and cook about fifteen minutes to the 
pound if desired medium rare. If roasted before the fire baste con- 
stantly while cooking and in either case, about twenty minutes 
before it is done, quicken the fire, carefully remove the paste and 
paper, dredge with flour, and baste well with butter until it is nicely 
frothed, and of a pale brown color ; if a haunch, garnish the knuckle- 
bone with a frill of Avhite paper, and serve with an unflavored gravy 
made from the drippings in a tureen, and currant jelly or jelly and 
mustard sauce. As the principal 
object in roasting venison is to 
preserve the fat, the latter is the 
best mode of doing so where ex- 
pense is not objected to ; but in 
ordinary cases the paste may be i<"a.st uaundi oi veu^on. 

dispensed with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead ; 
it Avill not require so long cooking without the paste. Send to table 
on a hot platter, or better on a hot-water platter as illustrated, and 
serve on hot plates, as the venison fat so soon cools ; to be thoroughly 
enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The 
neck and shoulder may be roasted in same manner. Some wash 
the venison in lukewarm vinegar and water before roasting and rub 
well with butter or lard to soften the skin, v.diile others remove the 
dry outer skin entirely, and think it better to tie on the papers and 
paste the day before wanted. One mode of baking is to [)lace in 
dripping-pan with boiling Avater in the bottom, invert another pan 
over it to keep in the steam, and let it cook thus an hour with a 
good fire ; wet all over with hot water, cover again and bake an 
hour and a half longer ; then remove papers and paste, let brown 
half an hour, basting every five minutes, and finish by dredging 
with flour and butter to make 'a froth. Or bake in dripping-pan 
simply covered with the paste, basting every ten minutes with the 
hot water or gravy from the pan, removing the paste half an hour 
before done, and finish as above. Take up on a hot dish, skim the 
gravy left in dripping-pan, strain, thicken with broAvned flour, add 
two teaspoons currant jelly, and pepper and salt. Boil for an in- 
stant, and serve in a gravy-boat. Or a very nice gravy is made 
thus : Pour all the fat from the baking pan, and put in the pan a 
cup boiling water. Stir from the sides and bottom and set back 
where it will keep hot. Put a tablespoon butter in a small frying- 
pan with small slice of onion, six pepper-corns and four whole cloves. 
Cook until the onion is browned, add a heaping teaspoon flour, and 
stir until browned ; then gradually add the gravy in the pan ; boil 
one minute, strain, and add a half teaspoon lemon juice and three 
tablespoons currant jelly. Serve both venison and gravy very hot. 
Or after the venison has been put in the oven chop all bits trimmed 



GAME. 373 

from it, and put over the fire, with any venison bones available, or 
use beef bones ; cover with boiling water, season with salt and pep- 
per, add ten whole cloves or about quarter of small nutmeg, and 
simmer gently while venison is baking, taking care to keep covered 
with water. Take up the venison when done and keep very hot 
while gravy is made as follows : Set the baking-pan over the fire, 
stir into it a heaping tablespoon flour, and brown it, then strain into 
it the liquid from the bones, season with salt and pepper and stir in 
as much currant jelly as liked. To bake Vendson a la Mode^ re- 
move the bone from the haunch, and make a large quantity of force- 
meat, or stuffing of bread-crumbs, bits of pork, an onion minced 
fine, a small piece of celery, or celery-seed, parsley, and sage. Season 
with pepper and salt to taste. Press in the stuffing till the hole left 
by the bone is filled. Sew up the opening and sjiread over it nice 
lard, sprinkling with pepper and salt, or l3ake as above, in a paste, 
until well done. Serve Avith either of the gravies given. 

Stewed Venison. — Use the neck, shoulder, inferior part of the 
leg or the backbone with the layer of tender meat each side, for a 
stew; cut into several pieces, and put in a stewpan with just water 
or stock enough to cover it ; add a grated onion, bunch sweet herbs, 
salt, black pepper, and part of a red pei3per pod. Simmer gently from 
three and a half to four hours, and if it becomes rather dry add 
boiling water ; it is well to stew with it some slices of fat mutton ; 
just before serving thicken with flour rubbed smooth in an ounce of 
butter. Serve with red currant jelly. Another way is to put the 
venison in a saucepan in which butter enough to cover half an inch 
in depth has been made smoking hot. Brown the venison in this 
and stir with it a tablespoon flour for each pound ; when the flour 
is browned cover the venison with boiling water, add a teaspoon 
currant jelly for each pound, and season with salt and pepper. 
Cover closely and stew half an hour, or until tender ; serve hot with 
the sauce in which it has been cooked poured over. For a stew 
from the remains of roast, cut the meat from the bones in neat 
slices, and if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat 
into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not bo 
enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a 
pint of any good gravy or stock ; stew gently for an hour, and strain 
gravy. Put a little flour and butter into stewi)an, keep stirring 
until brown, then add strained gravy, and let boil, skim and strain 
again, and when a little cool put in the slices of venison. Place 
stewpan on back of stove and when on the point of simmering, serve ; 
do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. 

Roast Woodcock. — Put an onion, salt and hot water into a drip 
ping-pan with the birds and baste for ten or fifteen minutes ; then 
change pan ; put in a slice of salt pork and baste with butter and 
pork drippings very often; just before serving dredge lightly with 




374 GAME. 

flour and baste. Or fill with a rich forcemeat of bread-crumbs, pep- 
per, salt, and melted butter ; sew up and roast, basting with butter 
and water, from twenty minutes to half an hour. When half done, 
put circular slices of buttered toast underneath to catch the juice, 
and serve on these when taken up. Boast Snipe and other small 
birds same way. 

Fried WoodcocTt. — Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs close to the 
body ; skin the head and neck, turn the beak under 
the "wing and tie it ; fasten a very thin piece of bacon 
around the breast of each bird, immerse in hot fat for 
two or three minutes. Season and serve on buttered 
toast. Some pierce the legs with the beak of the bird, 
as illustrated. Fried Snipe is prepared in same way. ^"^-i '^o"^'^'^^- 
Broiled Woodcock is a favorite dish. Split them down the back 
and broil, basting with butter, and serve on toast. 

Bird Compote. — Prepare as for roasting and fill each with a 
dressing made as follows : Allow for each bird the size of a pigeon 
one half a hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoon bread-crumbs, 
a teaspoon chopped pork ; first season the birds with pepper and 
salt, then stuff and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. Place 
over the birds a few slices of pork, add a pint water for twelve birds, 
dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. 
Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and butter. If 
sauce is too thin thicken with a little flour. 

Potted Game. — Take any cooked remains of game and pound 
well together, having previously removed all skin and bone. Add 
to the paste pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper, 
and a lump of sugar pounded, Any remains of ham may be in- 
cluded with the game, and should be of an equal quantity. Rub the 
paste through a wire sieve, If no ham be added use an equal 
amount of butter. Mix it well again, and place in pots or jars, cov- 
ered with either clarified butter or lard. When required for use, dish 
on an aspic jelly and garnish with fresh parsley. 

Puree of Game and Rice. — This is a pretty and economical 
dish, coming under the head of secondary cookery. Take the re- 
mains of any kind of roast or boiled game, put into a stewpan with 
a gill of water, stick of celery, a little thyme, and an onion. Ooil 
gently together. Mince meat, and pound in a mortar with a small 
bit of butter, and a spoonful gravy from the bones. This should 
be in a state of pulp ; rub through a hair seive, put in stewpan with 
stock from bones, which ought to be reduced to less than a gill in 
quantity. Add a gill cream, a sprinkling merely of pepper, salt and 
nutmeg, and a teaspoon flour ; dish with rice, potato croquettes, 
poached eggs, and thin narrow strips of bacon as a garnish, or with 
merely the rice and tufts of parsley. 



.;%f< 




CAIVTE. 875 

Spanish Stew. — Use hare, rabbit, chicken, partridge or pheas- 
ants. Cut up, wipe with damp towel and save the giblets. Put the 
pieces in a pan with sweet oil and onion sliced and fried brown. 
Add some chopped ham andsweet herbs, season with cayennne pep- 
per, and sufficient beef broth to cover well ; add the giblets, let sim- 
mer, skim off the grease, stir meat from the bottom, and when done 
add the juice of two oranges. Serve hot in covered dish. 

Western Pie. — Pluck and skin blackbirds or small birds of any 
kind, enough to fill a baking-dish of medium size, cut off heads and 
feet, except leaving feet on half a dozen for upper row ; draw them 
without breaking entrails, put birds into saucepan, with enough boil- 
f^ ^ ing water to cover, tablespoon each butter 

and flour rubbed to a smooth paste to each 
dozen birds, and a palatable seasoning of 
pepper and salt, and let stew gently until 
tender. For every dozen small birds boil 
three eggs hard, remove shells, and cut eggs 
in halves and while birds are stewing, make 
Western Fie a uicc crust as directed in Pastry, line a bak- 

ing dish and partly bake it ; when birds are tender put them in it, 
together with the hard boiled eggs, pour in as much of the gravy 
used in stewing the birds as the dish will hold, put on a cover of 
pastry, brush the top with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven, 
until uppt-r crust is done. If any gravy remains after filling pie, 
keep hot and serve with it. Blackbirds skinned, parboiled, and fried 
or broiled and served on toast are delicious. 

Washington Roast. — Have a pair of young wild ducks careful- 
ly skinned and cleaiied, wipe inside and out with a wet towel and 
stuff with potatoes, boiled until tender, mashed as if for table, and 
seasoned with teaspoon graiod onion, pepper, salt, teaspoon powder- 
ed herbs and two heaping tablespoons butter, or a dressing made 
with milk or cream may be used, or do not stuff at all. Sew up the 
ducks, truss them, put in baking pan, set in hot oven and as soon as 
lightly browned dredge them well with floar and baste with drip- 
pings in pan, or with butter. Bake half an hour, basting two or three 
times. Serve with Giblet Gravy. Or make an Orange Sauce by 
scraping tablespoon each fat bacon and onions and fry them togeth- 
er five minutes, then add juice of an orange and tablespoon currant 
jelly. Skim off all fat from baking pan, put in above mixture, and 
a little thickening if necessary, boil up and serve. Epicures prefer 
this method to that of first parboiling the ducks. For Steived Dnclis 
have them nicely picked ; stuff with bread and butter flavored with 
onions, pepper, and a few celery-seeds ; flour them, then brown in lard 
in frying pan ; put in a few slices of ham in iron stew-pot chopped 
onions, water, pepper, and salt, with a few blades of mace ; add ducks 
and let them stew gently but constantly for two or three hours ; flour 
them each time they are turned iu pot; thicken gravy with butter 
rolled in flour, and serve hot. 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 



aRIDDLE CAKES. 



Griddle-cakes should be well beaten when first made, and cakes 
in which eggs are used are much lighter when the eggs are separated, 
whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten 
to a stiff froth just before baking. All griddle-cakes are much nicer 
mixed and kept overnight, to allow the flour to swell, stirring in the 
whites of eggs and soda or baking powder, when used, just before 
baking. Cakes are much more easily, quickly and neatly baked if 
made in a vessel with a spout from which the batter may be poured, 
and one can be provided for this purpose. Have the griddle clean, and 
if the cakes stick sprinkle on salt and rub with a coarse cloth before 
greasing. The neatest way to grease a griddle is with a large piece 
of ham or pork rind kept for this purpose, and some use a thick 
slice of turnip. Many prefer griddles made of soap-stone, which 
need no greasing — greaSe spoils them — but they need to be very hot. 
They are more costly and more easily broken than iron, and with 
care cakes may be baked on an iron griddle without greasing, if it is 
V.Q'^i polished, and rubbed well with a cloth after every baking. The 
artificial stone griddle illustrated i.s a new article, light and durable, 

equally as good as the soap-stone, 

doing away with all grease and 

smoke and much cheaper. Whether 

greased or not, iron griddles, if 

Artiflciai stone Griddle. propcrly carcd for, need washing 

but seldom. Immediately after use they should be carefully wiped 

and put away out of the dust, never to be used for any other pur- 




GRIDDLE CAKES. 377 



pose. Do not turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking, as it 
makes them heavy ; this rule should never be departed from, save 
in making fruit cakes, when it is necessary to turn them quickly to 
form a crust to confine the juice of the berries, and again to cook them 
thoroughly ; serve all cakes the same side up as when taken from 
griddle. The cake lifter illustrated 
is almost indispensable in turning 
cakes smoothly and evenly and the 
cost of it is small. Buckwheat cakes are highly esteemed for win- 
ter breakfast, but are very properly never, or rarely, served in sum- 
mer, as the chief value of buckwheat as a food is its heat produc- 
ing properties. 

In making batter, bread or corn meal cakes, either sour milk or 
buttermilk may be used with soda; or sweet milk or water with 
baking powder, as convenient, using same proportion of other in- 
gredients, and remember that one heaping teaspoon baking powder 
possesses the same rising properties as one level teaspoon soda. A 
greater proportion of either of the rising powders is necessary with 
buckwheat, Graham and corn meal than with flour. 



Batter Cakes. — Make a batter of one quart each flour and sour 
milk, and let stand overnight. In the morning add three eggs 
beaten separately, a tablespoon butter, and two level teaspoons 
soda. Pulverize the soda very fine before measuring, then thor- 
oughly mix with the flour. Add whites of eggs just before baking 
on the griddle. For Corn Cakes use two-thirds corn meal and one- 
third flour. Sweet milk or water may be used with two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder thoroughly mixed with the flour. These 
may also be made without eggs, and some prefer to sweeten them, 
using either molasses or sugar to taste. Buttermilk may be used 
instead of sour milk. For Raised Batter Cakes take three eggs, 
one teaspoon sugar, one coffee-cup each sweet milk and warm 
water, four tablespoons potato yeast, flour enough to make a stifl 
batter ; beat yolks and sugar well, stir in milk, water and yeast, and 
lastly flour, stir well, and set in warm place to rise ; when light, beat 
whites to a stiff" froth, and stir into batter with a pinch of salt. Very 
nice for breakfast if set the night before. For Tomato Cakes, slice 
laige, solid ripe tomatoes, cover with the batter without yeast and 
fry on a griddle ; season with pepper and salt Avhile frying. 

Bread Cakes. — Soak stale bits of bread overnight in sour milk ; 
in the morning rub through a sieve or colander, and to one quart 
add yolks of two eggs, one teaspoon each salt and soda, two table- 



S78 GEIDDLE CAKES. 



spoons sugar, and flour enough to make a batter a little thicker than 
for buckwheat cakes ; add last the well-beaten whites of eggs, and 
bake. Or for Bread Cakes loith Corn Meal., soak bread-crumbs 
overnight in one quart sour milk, rub as above, and add four well- 
beaten eggs, two teaspoons soda dissolved in a little water, one table- 
spoon melted butter, and enough corn meal to make the consistency 
of ordinary griddle-cakes. It is better to beat yolks and whites 
separately, stirring the, ;^vhites in just before baking. Either sweet 
milk or water may be used, with two heaping teaspoons baking 
powder, instead of sour milk and soda. And if wanted to bake im- 
mediately, pour enough hot water over the bread to moisten it well, 
then put through a colander and add other ingredients as above, 
with, if necessary, a little .nveet milk, sour milk or buttermilk, as 
liked, to give the proper consistency. Some add a little shortening 
of butter or cream. To make Raised Bread Cakes, soak the bread 
in enough cold milk to make it very soft, almost liquid ; then beat 
it to a smooth batter over the fire and let it get scalding hot ; cool a 
little, and to each quart soaked bread stir in one tablespoon yeast, 
two well-beaten eggs, level teaspoon salt, and enough flour to form 
a batter that will hold a drop let fall from the spoon. Cover it with 
folded towel and let rise overnight, if the cakes are intended for 
breakfast, or five hours, if to be used at noon or evening. 

Buckwheat Cakes. — Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is 
perfectly free from grits. The grain should be run through the smut- 
ter with a strong blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken 
through the whole process. Adulteration with rye or corn cheapens 
the flour, but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and 
is unsurpassed for griddle-cakes. To make batter, warm one pint 
sweet milk and one pint water (one may be cold and the other boil- 
ing) ; put half this mixture in a stone crock, add five teacups buck- 
wheat flour, beat ivell until smooth, add the rest of the milk and 
water, and last a teacup of j'^east. Or, the same ingredients and pro- 
portions may be used except adding two tablespoons molasses or 
sugar, which makes them Drown nicely, and using one quart water 
instead one pint each milk and water. Some like also to shorten 
them with two tablespoons melted lard. Or, another rule, sift one 
quart buckwheat flour and add a cup scalded corn meal, tablespoon 
sugar and teaspoon salt. Stir in a half cup yeast and mix to a good 
batter with lukewarm water. Set to rise in a warm nlace overnight 
and before baking in the morning, thin if neceseary with warm 
water, and if it is even the least bit sour add a half teaspoon soda, 
but take out a cup of the batter, before adding the soda, to servers 
a rising for the next baking and put away in a cool place. If this is 
done every morning, fresh yeast will not be necessary for several 
days; some who bake cakes every morning use no other yecst 
all winter and think them better raised thus. Some never stir buck- 
wheat cakes after they have risen, but take them out carefully with 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 379 



a large spoon, placing the spoon when emptied in a saucer, and not 
back again in the batter. Wheat flour is used by many instead of 
corn meal, and it is recommended by some that oats be ground with 
buckwheat, one-third oats to two-thirds buckwheat. 

Some good housekeepers in the country who make salt-rising 
bread and thus do not keep a supply of yeast constantly on hand 
may be glad when buckwheat cake time comes, of a recipe for mak- 
ing Yeast without Yeast : Take a tablespoon and a half each New 
Orleans molasses and warm water, stir in enough flour for a thin 
batter and set in a warm place. It will soon begin to throw up bub- 
bles and in a short time ferment. While waiting for this, make 
ready for it by boiling a teacup of hops in two quarts water twenty 
minutes ; strain and stir in a pint flour and tablespoon salt, beating 
until free from lumps. Put over the fire and boil again until of the 
consistency of good starch; if too thick, thin with boiling water. 
Turn into a bowl, cover, and let stand till lukewarm and stir in the 
rising of molasses, etc. Set where it will be kept warm, but not 
hot, until light, when place in a jug, cork tight, and put away in a 
cool place. The following recipe is considered by some especially 
nice for buckwheat cakes : Catnip Yeast. — Pare and boil six 
medium-sized potatoes ; tie in a clean white cloth one handful cat- 
nip (fresh or dry) and boil with potatoes ; when they are thoroughly 
cooked take out catnip, mash potatoes with a fork and if not smooth 
put through a colander or sieve ; add a half teaspoon ginger, hand- 
ful sugar, teaspoon salt, and water in which potatoes were cooked to 
make about two quarts, cool to blood-heat, add half pint yeast. Set 
in a ^yarm place to rise. It will rise rather slowly in making, but 
will raise cakes, bread, etc., quicker than hop yeast. The advantage 
of catnip over hops is that more yeast can be used in cold weather, 
as is always necessary, without danger of giving a bitter taste. 

Buckioheat Cakes. — To make buckwheat cakes without yeast, 
mix overnight with warm water, a little salt, and tablespoon molas- 
ses, one pint buckwheat flour, to the usual consistency of griddle- 
cakes. When ready to bake for breakfast add two teaspoons bak- 
ing powder, thinning the batter if necessary, and bake immediately 
on a hot griddle. Or for Quick Buckwheats, take one pint sour 
milk or buttermilk, tablespoon soda, tablespoon baking molasses, or 
a little sugar ; thicken with buckwheat flour to the consistency of 
batter-cakes. Water may be used, or sweet milk and baking pow- 
der, but the cakes will not be as tender. Bake on a hot griddle. 

Cerealine Cakes. — Sift three-fourths cup flour, teaspoon baking 
powder and pinch of salt together, add three well-beaten eggs, table- 
spoon sugar and a cup cerealine, and stir in a pint milk. Bake 
as usual on a griddle, or in a buttered round frying-pan, putting in 
enough batter each time to make a cake covering half bottom of pan, 
turn to brown both sides, butter each cake, roll up separately, 



380 GRIDDLE CAKES. 




sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Or take half pound boiled 
cerealine, three tablespoons sugar, two and one- 
half cups flour, one and one-half teaspoon baking 
powder, three eggs, teaspoon salt and three-fourths _ „___„_ 
pint milk. Bake on griddle. ccreaiine caiea. 

Clam Cakes. — Sift two heaping teaspoons baking powder with 
a quart flour and make a batter with one pint milk and one pint 
liquor from canned clams, adding a tablespoon syrup, little salt, four 
tablespoons melted butter, and well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Stir 
in two two-pound cans of chopped clams and bake as other griddle 
cakes. 

Corn Cakes. — One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or butler- 
milk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt. A tablespoon flour 
or half tablespoon corn starch maybe used in place of the egg; bake 
on a griddle. The scalding of corn meal takes away the raw taste 
and cakes made as follows will be much more delicious : One pint 
corn meal, one teaspoon salt, small teaspoon soda ; pour on boiling 
water until a little thinner than mush ; let stand until cool ; add 
yolks of four eggs, half cup flour, in which is mixed two teaspoons 
cream tartar, and stir in as much sweet milk or water as will make 
the batter suitable to bake ; beat the whites well and add just before 
baking. Or pour three cups boiling milk gradually over one cup^ 
corn meal, stirring to avoid lumps; sift one teaspoon salt, one of 
baking powder and two tablespoons sugar with one cup flour and 
add when scalded milk is cool ; then stir in two well-beaten eggs. 
A tablespoon cream or a little butter may be added, and some scald 
the milk, pour over meal, stirring in the butter and sugar and let 
stand overnight, adding other ingredients in the morning. To make 
Raised Corn Cakes, scald a quart corn meal, cool with cold water 
so as not to scald the yeast, add two tablespoons yeast, one of flour, 
and salt to taste. Let stand overnight, and in the morning add two 
well-beaten eggs. 

Farina, Cakes. — Scald four tablespoons farina at night with a 
pint boiling water. In the morning thin with one quart milk stirred 
in slowly to avoid lumps, and add two well-beaten eggs, one table- 
spoon melted butter, salt to taste and enough flour to make a good 
batter. Add a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two, heap- 
ing, of baking powder. 

Flannel Cakes. — Make hot a pint of sweet milk, and into it put 
two heaping tablespoons butter, let melt, then add a pint of cold 
milk, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs — placing the whites in a cold 
place — a teaspoon salt, four tablespoons potato yeast, and sufficient 
flour to make a stiff batter ; set in a warm place to rise, let stand 
three hours or overnight ; before baking add the beaten whites ; fry 
like any other griddle-cakes. Be sure to make batter just stiff enough^ 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 381 



for flour must not be added in the morning unless it is allowed to 
rise again. Or take one cup corn meal, two of flour, three of boil- 
ing milk, one-fourth yeast cake dissolved in four tablespoons cold 
water, or one-fourth cup liquid yeast, one teaspoon salt, one table- 
spoon sugar, two of butter. Heat the milk to boiling and pour it 
over the meal and butter. When cool, add the other ingredients 
and let rise overnight and bake on griddle. 

French Pancakes. — Beat together till smooth yolks of six eggs 
and a half pound of flour, melt four tablespoons butter and add to 
batter, with one of sugar and a half pint milk, and beat until smooth, 
A little grated lemon peel may be added if wished. Put a large 
tablespoon at a time into small hot frying-pan about five inches in 
diameter, slightly greased, spread batter evenly over surface of pan 
b}^ tipping it about, fry to light brown on one side — about four min- 
utes — then sprinkle sugar over or spread with jelly, jam or preserves, 
roll up in pan, take out carefully without breaking and set where it 
will keep hot while others are fried, sending to table as hot and as 
quickly as possible, dusting with sugar just before serving. By make- 
ing cakes thin they will not need turning, which is difficult to do when 
cakes are large. For Plain French Cakes, make as much batter as 
v/ill be required, allowing one egg and a quarter saltspoon salt to 
four heaping tablespoons flour and a half pint milk. Beat yolks of 
eggs, add other ingredients, beating thoroughly, and stir in Avell- 
whipped whites, bake and roll as above. 

Fruit Cakes. — Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one 
teaspoon salt, two of baking powder, one tablespoon brown sugar ; 
add two well-beaten eggs, a pint of milk and a half pint blueberries, 
blackberries or raspberries. Have the griddle hot enough to form 
a crust as soon as the batter touches it, turn quickly to form a crust 
on the other side to confine the juices of the berries ; turn again on 
each side to bake thoroughly. 

Gluten Cakes. — One pint sour milk, level teaspoon soda; 
thicken with gluten or entire wheat flour as for batter cakes ; one or 
two eggs may be added, and sweet milk and baking powder may be 
used in place of sour milk and soda. These are as nice as buck- 
wheat cakes and more Avholesome. 

Graham Cakes. — One cup each sour cream and tepid water, two 
eggs, the best Graham flour (unsifted) to make a thin batte.r, 
and scant level teaspoon soda dissolved in the tepid water. The 
water must not be too hot, or the cakes will be greasy and soggy. 
Bake slowly on not too hot a griddle. Or take one quart sifted 
Graham flour, teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or water 
enough to make thin batter. Or, if a mixture is preferred, take one 
pint sifted Graham flour, half pint each corn meal and flour, or half 
Graham and half corn meal, heaping teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon 



382 GRrDDLE CAKES. 



salt, one egg, pint buttermilk, teaspoon soda. Another excellent 
recipe requires two cups Graham flour, one of flour, two and a half 
of milk, one tablespoon sugar, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, 
half teaspoon soda, two eggs. Boil half the milk, pour it on the 
Graham and stir until smooth ; add the cold milk, and set away to 
cool ; mix the other ingredients with the flour and rub through a 
sieve, and add with the eggs, well beaten, to the Graham and milk. 
Rye Cakes made the same. What is known as "Number One" 
Graham flour does not need to be sifted. 

Green Corn Cakes. — To one quart grated corn (raw) add yolks 
of three eggs, cup sweet cream (milk maybe used, adding table- 
spoon butter), one cup flour, the well-beaten whites, teaspoon bak- 
ing powder ; bake on griddle and serve hot. Some use a handful 
fresh bread-crumbs and not so much flour. 

Hominy Cakes. — Beat a large tablespoon butter into two cups 
soft boiled hominy, add a tablespoon white sugar, little salt and three 
well-beaten eggs, beating all well together; then stir in a quart 
milk and a cup flour with two heaping tenspoons baking powder. 
Or take half hominy and half flour, and water may be used instead 
of milk. Rice Cakes made same. Bake very quickly. . 

Oat Meal Cakes. — One cup each cooked oatmeal and flour, one 
egg, one teaspoon each sugar and baking powder and half teaspoon 
salt, mixed with enough cold water to make a nice batter. Beat all 
well together and bake on griddle. 

Potato Cakes — Six boiled potatoes cooled and mashed through 
a colander (cold potatoes maybe used), two eggs, three tablespoons 
flour, sweet milk to make rather stift' batter, salt, and a little pepper 
if liked. Fry on griddle. Nice with butter, syrup or jam. Y or Grated 
Potato Cakes., after peeling and washing potatoes, wipe dry, grate 
quickly and to each cup grated potato allow one egg, and heaping 
tablespoon flour. Beat potato and egg thoroughly five minutes, 
add flour and teaspoon salt. Have tablespoon drippings or lard in 
frying-pan, put in batter to cover bottom half inch thick, and there 
must 136 enough fat to show around the edge of cake. When brown 
turn and brown the other side. Place in oven on plate and bake a 
second one, adding more fat to pan if necessary, then a third, etc., 
till all are baked. Place in layers and serve at table cut as jelly 
cake, only larger slices. Make in the proportion of one grated po- 
tato to each person. These are nice for breakfast or tea and with 
potato slaw, cake or fruit and a cup tea, coffee or chocolate, one has 
almost a "company tea." 

Rye Cakes. — Warm a quart new milk, beat two eggs very light, 
and add gradually with sufficient rye meal to make a moderate bat- 
ter, putting in the meal a handful at a time ; add a saltspoon salt 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 383 




and large .tablespoon any fresh yeast. Beat very light and put 
in a warm place to rise. Bake on hot griddle and eat with butter, 
molasses, or honey. Corn Cakes may be made after this recipe, or 
use rye and corn in equal proportions. 

Rice Cakes. — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold mix one quart 
sweet milk, the yolks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make a 
stiff batter; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one 
teaspoon soda, and two of cream tartar ; add a lit- ,^ 
tie salt, and lastly the whites of eggs ; bake on a 
griddle. A nice way to serve is to spread them Rice cakes, 

while hot Avith butter, and almost any kind of preserves or jelly ; roll 
them up neatly, cut off the ends, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve 
immediately. Or boil until soft a half pound rice, drain off water, 
mash well, stir in butter size of an egg, and when cold add six eggs 
beaten very light, pint flour, and quart lukewarm milk. Beat all 
well together, and bake on a hot griddle. 

Squash Cakes. — One cup cooked and sifted squash, two eggs, 
one and a half pints milk, little salt, flour to make good batter, and 
two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take one pint flour, scant 
pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half as 
much soda, four taijlespoons sugar, two cups sifted squash. Mix 
the flour with the other dr}^ ingredients, and rub through a sieve ; add 
beaten eggs and milk to the squash, and pour or\ the flour. Beat 
till smooth and light and bake on griddle. Or ta^e a half pint cold 
stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colander; mix 
with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint 
each Graham flour and corn meal, half teaspoon salt, heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder. Mix all smoothly and thoroughly into a bat- 
ter and bake quickly on hot griddle. 



384 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



Perfectly fresh sweet cream makes the most delicious ice-cream, 
and what we term double cream, standing twenty-four hours, is best. 
This sweetened and flavored gives the justly renowned P/r/Zat^e^joAm 
Ice-cream^ having a cream-white tint and a full rich flavor. It is 
made either of cooked or uncooked cream ; the former gives a liglit 
snowy texture, greatly increased in quantity but not as fine in 
quality as if the cream is cooked, by placing in a custard kettle, stir- 
ring often till watej* in outer pan boils, then adding sugar, taking off 
fire, flavoring, letting stand a moment, straining, cooling and freez- 
ing as directed hereafter. This gives a cream of greater body and 
richness and prevents any tendency to curdling if cream should ac- 
cidentally not be perfectly fresh, caused by very hot sultry weather, or 
a passing thunder-storm. This is made more delicious, adding light- 
ness to the richness, by reserving a part of cream, whipping it and 
adding when cream is half frozen, beating it well in with a Avooden 
paddle; and less flavoring is needed, a quarter less at least, if it is 
added to the whipped cream, as freezing diminishes the strength of 
flavoring ; consequently, when added before freezing, the cream must 
bo over-flavored. Freezing also lessens the strength of the sugar, so 
if the cream preparation is sweetened to taste, one must also over- 
sweeten. For whipped cream some let single cream stand twelve 
hours after skimming, and then skim ofl" the richer portion, thus 
ol)taining the "cream of the cream." It will be so rich that it can 
all be whipped to a stiff" froth without any remainder. This is the 
true double-cream. 

When eggs are added to the cream before freezing, making a 
custard, it is known as Neapolitan Ice- creamy and as it contains a 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 385 



large proportion of eggs, yields an ice as solid, rich and smooth as the 
finest butter, and has a pronounced custard flavor, and lemon-yel- 
low color. It is prepared as follows : Strain and beat yolks of eggs 
to a smooth cream, add sugar and beat again. Strain and whisk the 
whites to a froth as stiff as possible, stir briskly into the yolks and 
sugar, and mix with the cream. Cook in a custard kettle or a pail 
set within a kettle of boiling water over a brisk fire, stirring con- 
stantly, until it slightly coats a knife blade dipped into it, and does 
not run. Be careful not to let it curdle. Take off fire, strain through 
a M'ire sieve (or a linen crash towel kept for the purpose and marked 
"Ice Cream,") into a crock or pan, cover with gauze, and let stand 
till cool, then freeze. It is well to reserve some of the cream and 
whip and add as above. These two creams are made of the pure 
cream ; when made of part new milk and cream it is called Lac- 
teanola Ice-cream and is made either with or without eggs : With 
Eggs^ by boiling the new milk, reserving a part of it, in custard ket- 
tle and adding beaten yolks of eggs mixed with the reserved milk 
and stirred slowly into the hot milk ; let cook two or three min- 
utes, add sugar and in few moments take from fire and strain while 
hot, as above ; cool, add double cream and flavoring, or add only 
part of the cream. Set custard in a cool place and when ready to 
freeze add well-frothed whites, and when half frozen, the reserved 
cream, whipped. Or WitJioitt Eggs., by boiling the milk, as above, 
and adding a rounded tablespoon flour (if cream to be added is very 
thick, use less), or a little less of corn-starch or arrowroot, to every 
quart milk, mixed smoothly with a part of the milk ; let cook fifteen 
minutes, then add sugar and cook fi.ve minutes, stirring all the time ; 
remove from fire, strain and put in a cool place ; when cold and 
ready to freeze add part of the cream and all the flavoring, and 
when half frozen, the rest of the cream, whipped ; or after straining, 
let cool and then freeze and when half frozen add all the cream, 
whipped, and with it the flavoring as directed above. If cream 
does not whip easily add beaten white of an egg. Sugar is not 
added to the whipped cream. In any of the methods the mixture 
should be placed in a bed of ice to cool so that it may be ice-cold 
when put in freezer, as it will then freeze easier, quicker and smoother 
and require less ice. It is also well when poured in can to let 
stand five or ten minutes before freezing as it will then surely be 
thoroughly chilled, as the salt with the ice makes a more intense 



386 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



cold. When eggs are used, strain through a sieve — the}^ beat easier 
and smoother for it ; if yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, 
strain each before beating. 

Fndt Ice-creams, when of berries, are made in proportion of a 
quart cream, a quart fruit and a pound sugar, allowing the berries 
to stand for awhile well sprinkled with part of the sugar, mashing, 
straining the juice, adding the rest of sugar to it, and stirring till a 
clear syrup, and then adding to the ice-cold mixture just before 
commencing to freeze, or beating into it after it is frozen, which is 
the better way. In the latter case use in preparing the cream or 
custard, half the sugar to be used in recipe and mix the rest with 
the fruit juice and stir in when frozen. If the fruit'iB preferred in 
the cream, cut into dice the firm-fleshed fruits such as the pine-apple, 
apricot, peach and plum, mix lightly with half the sugar and 
when it is dissolved mix with frozen cream ; for strawberries and 
raspberries, mash or chop gently, add sugar and mix with the frozen 
cream. In addition to this, add whipped cream and sweetened 
whole berries just as the cream is ready to serve, in the propor- 
tion of a cup berries and a pint of whipped cream to three pints 
of the frozen mixture. Canned berries may be used in the same 
way. Or a pint mashed berries or peaches, cut fine, added to a quart 
ordinary ice-cream, when frozen makes a delicious Fruit Ice-cream. 
In either case, with juice or fruit, let stand in freezer till ready to 
serve, or put in molds and pack as directed hereafter. 

In flavoring with vanilla the vanilla bean may be used by split- 
ting in two, cutting in pieces and cooking in the milk ; the flavor- 
ing for Almond Cream should be prepared by blanching and pound- 
ing the kernels to a paste with rose water, using arrowroot for thick- 
ening. Always use the Princesse Almond. For Cocoa-nut Ice- 
cream, grate cocoa-nut and add to the cream and sugar just before 
freezing. The milk should never be heated for pine-apple, straw- 
berry, or raspberry cream. It is often desirable to be able to make 
ice-creams and water-ices of the summer fruits when they are out of 
season and at same time retain as much as possible of their ac- 
customed flavor and freshness, also to avail one's self of the finest 
fruits of the various kinds at the lowest rates obtainable in the 
height of the season, and for this purpose make plentifully of Fruit 
Flavors, as given in Jams and Jellies. For making ice-cream use 



ICE3 AND ICE-CREAM. 887 



either fine granulated sugar or white sifted sugar, except where cream 
or milk is not cooked, then use best pulverized sugar. 

Both the Lacteanola and Philadelphia, being eggless, are con- 
sidered better adapted to be used with fruit, as the eggs and fruit 
flavors are not thought to blend well, but this is a matter of taste. 
The eggless creams are more economical where one has plenty of 
cream, as each dozen eggs requires half pound sugar to sweeten 
them and each quart cream or milk half pound, also. Any propor- 
tion of eggs may be used to a quart of milk or cream, using sugar in 
quantity to correspond, viz : for three eggs, eighth pound sugar, 
making with the half pound sugar for milk, five-eighths pound 
sugar. 

A freezer — White Mountain, Peerless or any of the best patent 
freezers — a wooden paddle made of hickory, maple, ash or oak, a 
fine wire sieve or crash strainer, seem almost a necessity in making ices 
and ice-creams, and there are also many other articles used which are 
given in Kitchen Utensils ; of course one can make them without 
so complete an outfit but the process is more tedious. Put ice in a 
coarse cofFee-sack, pound with an ax or mallet until some lumps are 
size of an egg and most of them as small as a hickory-nut ; see that 
the freezer is properly set in tub, the beater in the socket, the cover 
secure, and a cloth in the hole and tin cup inverted over it, first hav- 
ing put on cross-piece, and turned the crank to see if everything is 
right; now place around it a layer of ice three or four inches thick, 
then a thin layer of salt — rock salt pounded fine or the common 
coarse salt is best, some advise sea salt, but never use table salt, as 
it causes the ice to melt too rapidly — then ice again, then salt, 
and so on until packed full, with a layer of ice last. The propor- 
tion should be about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. Pack 
very solid, pounding Avith a broom-handle or stick, then remove the 
cover and pour in the ice-cold preparation, filling only two-thirds full, 
leaving room for expansion ; replace cover and after five or ten min- 
utes pack ice down again and begin to freeze, turning the crank 
slowly and steadily until rather difiicult to turn ; open can, add 
whipped cream, beat in well with wooden paddle, cover, and again 
turn till difficult to turn longer ; some claim this last turning of eight 
or ten minutes should be as rapid as possible. Half an hour will 
freeze it, although the make of freezer and quality and quantity of 
cream govern the time, pure cream taking the longest. Unless dan- 



388 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



ger of water entering can, do not draw off Avhile freezing as the in- 
tense cold of the water assists greatly in freezing. When done, brush 
ice and salt from and remove the cover, take out beater, scrape the 
cream down from the sides of freezer, beat well several minutes with 
a wooden paddle, replace the cover, fill the hole with a cork or a 
clean cloth and over ihis invert a tin cup, let off all the water, pack 
again with ice (using salt at bottom and between layers but none at 
top of tub), heap ice on the cover, spread over it a piece of carpet 
or a thick woolen blanket kept for this purpose, and set away in a 
cool place to harden two or three hours, or until needed. Some wet 
the blanket or carpet well with the icy brine ^hat was drawn off and 
after an hour or two open the freezer, scrape down and beat cream 
again, and pack down with fresh ice and salt. In very warm weather 
it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a second, or even a 
third time ; the only rule is that as often as the brine appears at 
the top, causing the ice to float, it must be drawn off, and the tub 
repacked. Keep the blanket wet with the brine; the evaporation 
causes intense cold, and helps to keep the ice from wasting, but when 
"brine blanket" is used cover top of freezer first with a dry blanket, 
then ice, etc. About twenty-five pounds ice is necessary for two or three 
gallons ice-cream in summer time, and the best is that which is por- 
ous and full of air cells, commonly called "snow ice." Snow itself 
is also an excellent freezing material and as it is often desirable to 
be able to make ices in the winter season, when there is no ice in 
the house, if there be snow upon the ground it makes an excellent 
substitute. It needs only to be packed down firmly in the freezing 
tub, and enough water added to make a thick mush ; then put in 
the salt, and freeze as usual. Large freezers require much less ice and 
salt, in proportion to their contents, than small ones ; for a gallon 
freezer use about ten pints pounded ice, and three of salt. If a 
larger proportion of salt is used than one-fourth, the cream will freeze 
sooner but will not be so smooth and rich, and some only take one-fifth 
salt. Do not let agi'ainof salt or a drop of hrineget into the cream. 
For evening use, cream should be cooked in the morning, cooled and 
frozen by mid-day. If wanted at the noon meal, cook previous 
evening, cool overnight, and freeze early next morning, or it may 
be cooked very early in morning. It needs several hours to harden 
and ripen ; newly frozen cream is always somewhat mushy, and 
wanting in body and flavor. The creams produced by this method, 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 389 



faithfully and skillfully applied, will be firm, smooth and fine- 
grained like the best butter or jelly. Some freeze in a warm place, 
believing that the more rapid the melting of the ice the quicker the 
cream freezes. If cream begins to melt while serving, beat up well 
from the bottom with the long wooden paddle. 

After the last beating and before covering again with ice, if 
wished molded, fill cream solidly in every part of mold, that there 
may be no air spaces, working up and down with a spoon, which 
presses the cream in every part and also lightens it ; heap it a lit- 
tle above the brim, press the cover down hard, bind a buttered cloth 
over the joint, or use buttered or oiled paper put on with paste or gum 
tragacanth, bury it in a pan or tub of ice and salt and cover with a 
blanket. If it be a figure or design in two parts, fill each half of 
mold a little more than full ; the excess squeezes out on shutting 
it. Seme cover top of cream in mold with thick white paper. 
When ready to serve, Avash mold with cold water to remove the 
brine ; take off cloth, and wipe mold dry, lift off cover, turn mold 
over on a plate, and if room is warm, it will slip off the cream in a 
few seconds. It is better not to use warm water on the mold ; it 
causes the cream to melt and run down the surface in unsightly 
streams. The variety of molds is very large, from the plain pyra- 
mid to the most elaborate combinations of figures, animals, flowers 
and fruits, corresponding to the flavor, as oranges for orange ice-cream, 
etc., and new designs and devices are brought out every year. The 
Pyramid is made of a gretit many styles, both plain and fluted, and 
is useful for center-pieces, either of one or of several varieties and 
colors of creams or water-ices, put in layers. The Brick is a plain, 
oblong mold, with straight, slightly tapering sides. It is made of 
several sizes, from a pint to two quarts. The Cabinet, so called from 
its being used for Cabinet puddings, is oval in shape, about nine 
inches long, six inches wide, and four inches deep, and contains two 
quarts. It is a very convenient mold for Tutti Frutti, blanc-mange, 
all kinds of boiled puddings, and many sorts of cake. A small cab- 
inet mold, holding enough to serve one guest, is four inches long, 
two inches wide and two inches deep. All these molds have tightly 
fitting covers and tapering sides, to allow their contents to be easily 
turned out. In the final packing of salt and ice, and when molds are 
packed, if rock salt is used, have it in small lumps size of a pea. 

The directions for making Self-freezing Ice-cream with an 



390 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



old fashioned freezer without patent inside, are as follows : After 
preparing tho freezer as above and placing the cream or custard in 
can, remove lid carefully, and with a long wooden paddle beat the 
cream like batter steadily for about five or six minutes. Replace 
lid, pack two inches of pounded ice over it, spread above all several 
folds of blanket or carpet, and leave it untouched for an hour ; at 
the end of that time remove the ice from above the freezer-lid, wipe 
off carefully and open the freezer. Its sides will be lined with a 
thick layer of frozen cream. Displace this with the paddle, work- 
ing every part of it loose ; beat up cream again firmly and vigorously 
for fifteen or twenty minutes, until it is a smooth, half-congealed 
paste. The perfection of the ice-cream depends upon the thorough- 
ness of the beating at this point. Put on cover again, pack in more 
ice and salt, turn off brine, cover freezer entirely with ice, and spread 
the carpet over all. At the end of an hour or two again turn off 
brine and add fresh ice and salt, but do not open the freezer for two 
hours more. At that time take the freezer from the ice, open it, 
wrap a towel wet in hot water about the lower part and turn out a 
solid column of ice-cream, close grained, firm and delicious. Any of 
the recipes for ice-cream may be frozen in this way. Or they may be 
frozen without any freezer, by simply placing in a covered tin pail, 
setting latter in an ordinary wooden bucket, and proceeding as 
above directed for Self-freezing Ice-cream, always remembering to 
not much more than half fill can or pail, as the action of cream 
against sides of can when it is beaten hastens the freezing. 

A delicate way of serving ice-cream is to place upon it a spoon 
of whipped cream, and the most elaborate is to enclose it in me- 
ringues or kisses (see Confectionery). Fill the shells with whatever 
ice-cream or other ices prepared, put together by tAvos, thus forming 
a large egg, tie it around with a ribbon of suitable color, and send to 
table. When several kinds are served at one time, they are desig- 
nated by ribbons of the same color as the creams or ices ; white for 
almond or vanilla, brown for chocolate, pale and deep yellow for 
lemon, pine-apple and orange, pink for strawberry, green for pistachio, 
fawn for peach and apricot, and so for all the others. Sometimes, 
after filling, the edges of the shells are lightly touched with the 
soft part that was removed, to make them stick together. For Mar- 
hled Meringues, fill with tAvo or more creams of different colors, as 
for example, vanilla in one-half and chocolate in the other, or straw- 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 391 



berry and orange, lemon and pistachio, peach and almond, and any 
other combination fancy may dictate. A pleasing contrast also is 
furnished by filling one-half with ice-cream and the other with water- 
ice, or one with a vanity and the other with frozen fruit. The ribbons 
should be double-faced and of shades to correspond with and indi- 
cate the contents ; or take plain ribbons of the two colors required, 
stitch two pieces, one of each color, together at ends, each half the en- 
tire length wished, and tie around the meringue, finishing in a bow- 
knot, one-half of the bow thus being of each color. Angel or 
Cream Cake, Cream Sandwiches, White Lady Fingers, or Centennial 
Drops are nice served with Ice-cream. 

For freezing small molds and also Bisque or Biscuit Glace 
have a large tin mold, either square or rectangular ; fill this with 
little paper cases, which must fit the tin mold exactly in every part. 
These little cases may be made round, oval, oblong, square, or as little 
baskets, and about the size of a patty pan, of smooth, heavy white 
paper or light card-board, and a frill of lace paper put around the 
edge gives a pretty effect; fill with.the mixture, and cover mold with 
a hermetically fitting top. In the bottom of a wooden box, made 
for the purpose eight inches larger each way, with a cover and 
handles, put about six or eight inches of pounded ice and coarse 
salt in alternate layers ; in this place tin mold of filled cases with 
another eight inches of ice and salt ; cover the whole with a thick, 
heavy cloth, or blanket, and let stand six or eight hours. The box 
containing ice should have a small plugged hole, to allow escape of 
water from melted ice. When mold is taken from ice, wipe well 
before opening, to prevent any salt-water getting in. Or a more 
elaborate square tin box is made Avith shelves, with feet at each cor- 
ner to support them, and called a "cave," and when shelves are 
filled and placed in, one above the other, is also packed in the outer 
box with ice and salt. Then there is a patent cave that is round 
like an ice-cream freezer ; to fill, put shelf into can, packed as for 
ice-cream, cover with cases, then another shelf and so on till all are 
added ; put on lid, press tightly down, bind the joint like any mold, 
cover with pounded ice, then with a woolen cloth or blanket, then 
ice and salt and the "brine blanket." Let stand as ice-cream, draw- 
ing off water and repacking if necessary. There should be a hole, 
with a wooden plug, in the side of ice-tub just above bottom the 
same as in an ice-cream freezer. Any one having the latter may 



892 ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 



have tin shelves made to fit the can, with three supports or feet two 
or three inches high, and if wished an extra cover without any 
oj-ening in top, although with that plugged and carefully protected 
it will not be necessary ; remove beater, put in shelves, fill, cover, 
bind and cover with ice as above. In caring for patent ice-cream 
freezers, the cogs should be oiled occasionally and every part of 
the can, beater, etc., should be well cleaned and dried on top the 
stove or in sun before putting away. 

In making recipes refer to table of weights and measures for 
relative proportions of pounds, pints, teacups, gills, etc. Whipped 
cream may be added when cream is half frozen, or later, just before 
it is packed for hardening, and the quantity given in the following 
recipes is measured before whipping. In all recipes where only cream 
is used, part new milk may be substituted in any proportion wished, 
using with it the arrowroot, corn-starch or flour in proportion as 
given, remembering that the milk must always be cooked with the 
sugar and thickening, strained, cooled and then the cream added ; 
but when cream alone is used "it may be cooked or not as liked. 
Always use a custard kettle and strain all mixtures while hot. In 
giving proportions of ingredients in different recipes where cream 
and milk are used the term liquid will be given to cover both. 
Custard ice-cream or Neapolitan is considered by some preferable 
for Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Vanilla and the different nut 
creams, and the Philadelphia and Lacteanola, without eggs, as 
already suggested, better adapted to fruit flavors, but where the light- 
ness given by eggs is wished without the flavor, the whites alone 
can be used and added when cream is partially frozen. It is 
better to use earthen bowls, crocks, jars, etc., to hold any of the 
milk, cream or fruit preparations while in process of making ice- 
creams, and we feel like repeating instructions for adding fruit and 
juices, as one will be fully repaid for the extra trouble. Always 
add juice when cream is partly frozen, and especially is this true of 
very acid fruit, as currants, lemons, etc., for it is apt to curdle the 
cream if added before freezing; if fruit is used, chop and add just 
hefore serving^ or if to be molded, when put in mold. In winter, 
when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted 
for it ; it should be melted and worked through a sieve before being 
added, and if the color should not be good a little prepared cochi- 
neal may be put in to improve its appearance. In recipes where 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 393 



candied fruits are used the French are of course the best, but one 
can dry and prepare them at home, and if either are not obtainable 
a substitute can be had by using any firm-fleshed, home-made pre- 
serves, such as cherries, strawberries, pears, peaches, pine-apples or 
quinces. Drain ofif syrup, chop into dice, roll in pulverized sugar 
and stir into cream, as above. In vanilla flavoring some use the 
bean, a small bean to a quart, others heaping tablespoon powder, 
others half ounce vanilla sugar, while most use half tablespoon ex- 
tract to above proportion. The preparing, flavoring, molding and 
serving of ice-creams can be so varied, according to the taste of the 
kitchen-queen, that by carefully reading directions and recipes she 
can soon make any combinations wished, and by adding "here a 
little and there a little" create new and delicious flavors. 



Almond Ice-cream. — Cook two quarts cream, the prepared 
almonds and three teacups sugar in custard kettle, strain, cool and 
freeze ; prepare almonds as follows : blanch and rub to a paste, with 
four tablespoons each sugar and cream reserved from the above 
quantities, half pound shelled almonds and a few drops rose water." 
Add when half frozen one quart cream, whipped, teaspoon almond 
extract and half vanilla. For Almond Caramel, iput the blanched 
almonds in oven, roast quickly to a yellow brown and then prepare 
and add as above, adding half teaspoon caramel in place of almond 
extract. For Pistachio Ice-cream make as above, using pistachio 
nuts instead of almonds, with a heaping teaspoon Spinach Coloring to 
give a fine color. If wished with eggs, use eggs and more sugar in 
proportion as given in general directions. Some use only two ounces 
shelled nuts to each quart cream. Any JV^ut Ice-cream can be 
made in same way except that walnuts and hickory nuts are not 
blanched. 

Arrowroot Ice-cream. — Boil two quarts milk, add half pint arrow- 
root mixed smooth with pait of the milk and two pounds sugar; 
when cold add two quarts cream, whites of six eggs, tablespoon 
any flavoring and freeze, 

Boston Ice-cream. — Make a boiled custard of three pints cream 
three teacups sugar and yolks often eggs ; strain, cool, freeze and add 
teacup crumbs of steamed brown bread, prepared by drying, grating 
and sifting, pint cream, whipped, and well-frothed whites, and pack 
as directed. This can be made without eggs, and also by cooking 
part of crumbs with custard, giving rather more body to cream. 

Buttermilk Ice-cream. — Strain buttermilk through a thin cloth, 
so as to remove all lumps and particles of butter, add sugar until 
very sweet and flavor with vanilla. Freeze as directed. 



394 ICES AND ICE-CREAM, 



Caramel Ice-cream. — One and a half pounds brown sugar, 
three quarts cream, one pint boiling milk, rut sugar in an iron 
frying-pan on fire and stir until it is a liquid, stir it in the milk, 
strain, and when cool add to cream. Whipping all or part of the 
cream makes it more delicious. Or to any of the cooked founda- 
tions or preparations add only half the sugar to the milk or cream 
and make a caramel as above with the rest, add to boiled mixture, 
strain, cool and freeze. The flavor may be varied by browning the 
sugar more or less. 

Chestnut Ice-cream. — The native chestnut may be used, but is 
not as fine as the Italian variety. Boil, and to a quarter pound pulp 
add two tablespoons sugar, and four of cream, rub to a smooth 
paste and add it to three pints cream, three teacups sugar and 
twelve eggs ; cook, strain, cool, freeze, and add, just before packing, 
a pint cream, whipped, and juice of one orange. 

Chocolate Ice-cream. — Scald one pint new milk, add by de 
grees three-quarters pound sugar, two eggs, and five tablespoons 
grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little milk. _ Beat well for a 
moment or two, place over fire and heat until it thickens, stir- 
ring constantly, set off, add a tablespoon of thin, dissolved gelatine, 
and when cold, place in freezer; when it begins to set, add a quart of 
rich cream, half of it well whipped. To make a 
mold of chocolate and vanilla, freeze in separate 
freezers, divide a mold through the center with 
card-board, fill each division with a different 
cream, and set mold in ice and salt for an hour or ^'^"^ loe-cream. 

more. For that delicious preparation, Chocolate Fruit Ice-cream, 
add Avhen cream is frozen French candied fruit, or a coffee-cup preserv- 
ed peaches, or any other preserves, prepared as directed. For Spiced 
Chocolate Ice-cream, cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar; 
prepar-e spice by pouring over three-quarters teaspoon best pulver- 
ized cinnamon, seven tablespoons boiling water and let stand on 
back of stove, (must not boil), twenty minutes; pour off clear liquid 
and add to it quarter pound grated chocolate, or less if not wished 
highly flavored. Add this to the hot cream, strain, cool and freeze 
as directed. When half frozen add one pint cream, whipped and fla- 
vored with half teaspoon vanilla. Delicious served in glasses or 
dishes covered with tablespoon whipped cream or meringue, also 
very dainty molded in individual molds and surrounded with whip- 
ped cream. For Chocolate Caramel, make as above, using four 
tablespoons caramel in place of cinnamon, adding it with the whip- 
ped cream and vanilla. Or to the above hot cream mixture add a 
chocolate paste made as follows : Stir in a dish, set in pan of hot 
water, six tablespoons grated chocolate, two tablespoons each sugar 
and boiling water, till smooth and glossy ; adding whipped white of 
an egg just before removing from fire, is an improvement. After add- 




ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 895 

ing to mixture, strain, cool, freeze and finish as above, adding whip- 
ped cream and flavoring. For Chocolate Custard^ to any two 
quarts custard preparation add the above paste and one table- 
spoon dissolved gelatine and proceed as above. For Chocolate Moss^ 
mixone quart double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, and drained 
on sieve, with half pound sugar and three-quarters tablespoon vanilla. 
Meantime have two squares Baker's chocolate melted by plac- 
ing in a small tin basin over a teakettle boiling water. Stir choco- 
late carefully into the whipped cream. Pour into freezer, taking 
out beater, or in a pail and freeze without stirring. When wished 
for the table, dip a cloth in boiling water and wrap about the freezer 
until the cream slides out, or better, let freezer stand in warm room 
for a little while. Slice and it looks like variegated moss. Two 
tablespoons gelatine, soaked in cold water two or three hours, may 
be added to the whipped cream. Five tablespoons grated choco- 
late to each quart liquid, in any of the above recipes, gives a pleas- 
ant flavored ice-cream. 

Cocoa-nut Ice-cream. — Cook one pint milk, three eggs, grated 
rind of one lemon and a teacup and a half sugar in custard kettle ; 
when thickened, strain, cool, freeze, and when half frozen add cup 
grated fresh cocoa-nut, prepared as candied fruits in Cabinet Ice- 
cream, one quart cream, whipped, and juice of one lemon. Des- 
sicated cocoa-nut can be used without any preparation. 

Custard Ice-Gream. — Beat yolks of five eggs,add eight well round- 
ed tablespoons white sugar ; boil a quart milk, stir with it one table- 
spoon corn-starch (previously dissolved in a little cold milk) ; when 
cooked until as cream, cool, add one quait cream, the eggs and 
sugar ; season with lemon or vanilla and freeze. Plain custard is 
also good frozen. Sliced peaches greatly improve this or any 
frozen custard, added just before serving the cream. 

Coi^ee Ice-cream. — Grind very fine a quarter pound coffee, 
half each Mocha and Java, or use the pulverized, taking only half as 
much. Put one quart cream on in custard kettle ; when hot add 
coffee and cook ten or fifteen minutes, strain, add pint more cream, 
yolks of twelve eggs and three teacups sugar ; cook, strain, cool, 
freeze and when half frozen add pint cream, whipped, and also the 
whites ; or where the made coffee is used, scald a pint milk and stir 
in a tablespoon arrowroot, mixed smooth in a little cold cream, add 
two cups sugar and cup very strong clear coffee sweetened to taste ; 
when cold stir in quart cream,whipped, and freeze ; or for Whipped 
Coffee Ice-cream, whip one quart double cream, add cup each 
sugar and strong black coffee, whip to a froth, pile in goblets, freeze 
and serve. In winter time can be placed out doors or in summer 
time in Cave as described. For White Coffee Ice-cream., pour one 
quart boiling cream over half pound freshly roasted whole Mocha 




896 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 

and Java, half and half; place in custard kettle and keep on back 
of range for an hour or so, where water in outer kettle will keep hot, 
not boil ; strain, return to inner kettle and add yolks of twelve eggs, 
beaten smooth with teacup and half sugar ; when it begins to thicken, 

take off, strain, cool, freeze, and when half 
done add pint cream, whipped, and if 
wanted very delicious the well-frothed 
whites mny be used ; if so, add with the 
Coffee io7-cToam. crcam, ancl use in the custard a half teacup 

more sugar. Mold in melon mold and serve surrounded by whip- 
ped cream. Tea Ice-cream is made as above, using one ounce 
tea. 

Eggless Ice-cream. — One quart cream,two quarts new milk, scant 
half teacup flour, or two tablespoons, and one and a half pounds gran- 
ulated sugar, or three teacups; put three pints milk in custard 
kettle, or in pail, set in kettle of water; when hot stir in flour, 
previously mixed smooth in one pint new milk; let cook ten 
or fifteen minutes, stirring once or twice, then add sugar and 
stir constantly for a few minutes till it is well dissolved. Remove 
and strain while hot through a crash strainer. When cold add one 
pint cream and place in freezer. When half frozen, take a wooden 
paddle, scrape down sides and stir in well one pint double cream, 
previously wlii^Dped and flavored with one and a half tablespoons va- 
nilla, put on cover and pack as directed. This makes one gallon and 
is suflicient for two dozen dishes ; or take in all three pints new milk, 
one and a quarter pints cream, one tablespoon flour, two teacups 
sugar, and one tablespoon vanilla, and prepare as above, reserving 
and whip]:)ing all instead of part of cream and adding when half 
frozen. This makes sufficient for sixteen or eighteen dishes and 
any proportion may be taken for a less number. For ¥ig Ice-cream 
two teacups figs cut fine may be added with the whipped cream. 
For Almond Ice-cream^ to each quart liquid, milk or cream, use four 
ounces shelled almonds prepared as follows : Blanch and pound to 
a paste with half pint cream or milk and four tablespoons sugar, re- 
served from above quantities and a few drops rose water to prevent 
oiling of nuts; add to milk in custard kettle and cook with rest of 
sugar ; finish as above and add with whipped cream half teaspoon 
almond extract and quarter teaspoon vanilla ; or if a more decided 
nutty taste is wished add the nuts with the flavoring; or for Car- 
amel Cream add in proportion of two tablepoons caramel, made as 
directed, and a quarter teaspoon vanilla to each quart liquid 
when preparation is half frozen. For Filbert Ice-cream., make 
as the Almond and Almond Caramel. 

Any of the recipes with fruit, nut or any flavor where all cream 
is used can be made as above, using same proportions of liquid, 
only two-thirds new milk to one-third cream, or half and half, or any 
proportion wished, preparing milk as above, and adding other in- 






ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 897 

gredicnts as in recipe. In whipping cream for ico-crcam, if double 
cream is used, it is not always necessary to drain on sieve, as it will 
all whip stiff enough to be used. 

Gelatine Ice-cream. — Soak one half package of Cox's gelatine 
in a pint new milk ; boil two pints new milk, and pint and a third 
sugar, strain, add the soaked gelatine, stirring well; when cold add 
one quart cream, tablespoon vanilla, and freeze ; or reserve half of 
cream, whip and add as directed. 

Ginger Ice-cream. — Bruise four ounces preserved ginger in a 
mortar or bowl, using potato masher, add two-thirds pint powdered 
sugar, and one pint cream ; mix well, strain, freeze and when ready 
to pack add two ounces preserved ginger, cut in dice, and juice of 
one lemon and pint cream, whipped. 

Harlequin Ice-cream,. — This is any three ice-creams wished 
arranged in layers, as illustrated, in the Brick mold ; vanilla, pistachio 

and strawberry are used together, or choco- 
late, strawberry and vanilla, or almond, 
or any nut or fruit cream, or a water-ice 
^ ^__^^^^^^___^___^_^^_^^^___ is used for one layer. The mold is then 
'^T/^ yZH'-'-^^jiJ^^P-r-' bound and packed as directed. 

Hicliory-mit Ice-cream. — A pound hickory-nut kernels, two 
cups sugar, quart cream. Pick over the kernels carefully for pieces 
of shell, then pound in a mortar with a little sugar and water added. 
Put two tablespoons of the sugar over fire without water, stir con- 
stantly till melted and browned, add a little water to dissolve it, 
then add to cream with the sugar and nut paste and freeze. 

Jam Ice-cream. — Prepare one pound of jam as directed, add 
one and a quarter pints cream, mix well and strain, freeze, and 
when partly frozen add juice of one lemon. Apricot, Raspberry, etc., 
are very nice made in this way. 

Kentuch/ Ice-cream. — Make a half gallon rich boiled custard, 
sweeten to taste, add two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a half 
cup cold milk ; let the custard cool, put it in freezer, and as soon as 
it begins to freeze add one quart cream, whipped, and just before 
serving one pound raisins and one pint strawberry preserves. 
Blanched almonds or grated cocoa-nut are additions. Some pre- 
fer currants to raisins, and some also add citron chopped fine. 

Italian Ice-cream,. — Whip three pints cream and add to it 
three-quarters pound best pulverized sugar and tablespoon vanilla ; 
freeze, and when frozen and ready for packing stir carefully into it 
the following : Half teacup granulated sugar, cooked in quarter pint 
water till it "threads" when a little is taken up on a spoon, or will 
become as soft wax when tested in cold water ; then pour it slowly 



898 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



over the well-frothed whites of two eggs, pouring with the left hand 
and beating constantly with the right, as in making Boiled Icing, 
till it is cold. After stirring into frozen cream, cover and pack as 
directed, or the cream may be cooked instead of whipped. For 
Italian Custard Ice-cream^ cook the cream with two teacups gran- 
ulated sugar, yolks of nine eggs ; strain, cool, add the vanilla, freeze 
and finish as above. For Whipped Ice-cream,^ whip quart cream, 
add two-thirds pint pulverized sugar and half tablespoon vanilla ; 
freeze as directed. Any other flavoring may be used. 

Lemon Ice-cream. — To two quarts sour cream that has soured 
quickly, take one of sweet cream, pound and a half sugar, the juice 
and rind of one lemon ; cut the rind thin, and steep it ten or fifteen 
minutes in half a pint of the sweet cream over boiling water ; strain, 
cool, and add to the rest, and freeze ; or make a custard of one quart 
cream, yolks of six eggs and three and a half teacups sugar, (reserving 
six tablespoons, two for preparing the zest, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, 
and four to mix Avith the juice, obtained as directed, of three lemons 
and one small orange ;)let boil, strain, cool and freeze : To grated 
rind of two lemons, being careful not to grate any of white pith, as 
it is bitter, add the prepared juice, let stand an hour or two, strain and 
add with pint cream, whipped, and the well beaten whites, to the cus- 
tard when half frozen ; or make as above, omitting juice and rind 
and flavor with tablespoon lemon extract. 

Macaroon Ice-cream. — One and one-half pints cream, half tea- 
cup dry macaroons, grated and sifted, teacup white sugar, yellow rind 
of one orange, grated, and the juice of two. Whip cream, add sugar, 
freeze, and when half frozen add macaroons and the orange juice and 
rind ; or to any half frozen preparation, in proportion of teacup 
or half pound sugar to each quart cream or milk, add the sifted 
macaroons and if almond macaroons add six drops extract almond 
to same. For Macaroon Caramel, first roast macaroons to a yellow 
brown and add a few drops caramel, and for Triple Ice-cream 
make as above and add tablespoon each sponge cake, macaroon and 
mcridgue crumbs, prepared by grating and sifting when dry. Flavor 
with teaspoon and a half nectarine extract. Serve in the little 
cases, first placing them in the "cave" as described. 

New York Ice-cream.— Boil quart thin cream, with teacup 
and a half sugar and a vanilla bean in it. Beat yolks of twelve eggs 
light and pour the boiling cream to them. Set on fire again for a 
minute. This yellow custard will not become 
frothy, rich and 1 ght in the freezer if cooked too 
much, and should be taken off and strained as 
soon as slightly thickened. Freeze as directed. 
Mold in a round mold with a chocolate cream for center layer and 
a lemon cream above. This is very delicious. 





ICE3 AND ICE-CREAM. 399 

Orange Ice-cream. — Cook two quarts cream and two teacups 
sugar, cool, strain and freeze. Prepare juice of one dozen oranges 
and one lemon as in Saratoga Ice-cream, add grated rind of two 
oranges, and cook to a syrup with one and one-third teacups sugar, 
strain, cool and mix with cream when half frozen. Strawhervt/ 
Ice-creavi is made as above, first preparing one quart juice from 
two or three quarts berries, by mashing through the wire sieve, add- 
ing to pulp in sieve when juice ceases to run, two-thirds teacup sugar 
(this is in addition to quantity given for ice-cream), let stand an 
hour, mash, strain and add to first juice, then cook to a syrup and 
finish as above. A teaspoon or two orange juice added with the 
syrup makes a delicious flavor. Raspherry Ice-cream is made as 
the Strawberry using the Cuthbert variety. For Riced Orange Ice- 
cream, wash and parboil eight or nine tablespoons best rice, put 
in custard kettle with q^uart milk and pint 
cream, teacup and a halt sugar and a pinch 
salt ; cook till grains are almost dissolved ; when 
done, stir in yolks of six eggs and two tea- 
spoons vanilla, mix well together, freeze as 
directed, then place in mold and pack. When Eioed orange ice.oream. 
ready to serve take from mold and place on the top and around 
the base a dozen oranges prepared as in Orange Compote. 

Peach Ice-cream. — Mash to a pulp one quart peaches, strain 
through a hair sieve and add six ounces of loaf-sugar which has 
been on range to dissolve a few minutes ; add one pint and a half 
cream, a few drops of cochineal to give a nice peach-color and freeze 
as directed ; or cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar, strain 
and when cool freeze ; when half frozen add one heaping pint peach 
pulp mixed to a smooth paste with two teacups sugar and add also 
the pint of cream, whipped. Two quarts peaches make one pint 
pulp. If wished, reserve quarter of them, cut in dice and add to 
cream just before serving. To prepare pulp do not peel' till just 
ready to use, as all light fruits darken so quickly, and it is better to 
even drop in cold water as soon as peeled, but must not remain 
long as juice will be extracted; chop in fruit 
bowl, mash, and add sugar as above, stirring till 
dissolved and strain before adding to frozen cream. 
Peach Ice-cream. If Pcach Fluvor Is uscd, take twice as much as of 

the pulp and mix it with the cooked cream after 
latter has cooled. Canned peaches are used same way as fresh fruit, 
utilizing the juice for pudding sauces or ices. Any of above recipes 
may be molded and surrounded with pieces of the fruit when served. 
Nice A'pvicot and Apple Ice-cream may be made as above, except do 
not pare fruit. Plum and (Jherrg Ice-cream are made same way, 
except after stoning and mashing the fruit add a few of the kernels 
pounded to a paste, and the dark fruits can stand an hour or so, 
stirring occasionally; if the light fruits are placed in a covered 





400 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 

dish they may also be kept awhile and will strain easier. An}' fruit 
may be used as above and for Sioiss Ice-cream whip all of the 
cream, instead of cooking a part, using powdered sugar and not 
straining ; freeze, add fruit and finish as above, and if wished even 
more delicious add with the fruit whites of six eggs, beaten with a 
quarter teacup sugar. 

Pine-apple Ice-cream. — Three pints cream, two large ripe pine- 
apples, pared, and eyes, heart or core removed, as latter is bitter, two 
pounds powdered sugar ; slice pine-apples thin, scatter sugar between 
slices, cover and let stand three hours ; cut or chop it up in the 
syrup, and strain through a hair seive or double bag of coarse lace ; 
beat gradually into the cream, and freeze, adding when half frozen a 
pint of cream, whipped ; reserve a few pieces of pine-apple, unsugared, 
cut into square bits, and stir through cream when 
frozen. Peach Ice-cream may be made in same 
way ; or for Saratoga Ice-cream take above pro- 
portions, using granulated sugar ; cook the cream 
and two teacups sugar, strain, cool and freeze and 
when half frozen,add fruit j uice prepared as follows : p'^^-'^ppI" lo^-oream. 
Mash and strain the pulp, a heaping pint, and to this add juice of two 
oranges and one lemon. (To better obtain juice of latter, roll, rub with 
a spoonful or two of sugar to obtain the zest, then pare, scrape off all 
of the inner white rind down to pulp, as this is bitter, cut in half, 
pick out seeds, squeeze out juice, dissolve the zest in it and strain.) 
Cook all the juice with two teacups sugar to a syrup, strain and cool 
and add with the pint of cream, whipped, when preparation is half 
frozen. Mold and serve with Avhipped cream as a garnish. Pine 
apple darkens very quickly and should be cooked as soon as pre- 
pared. Banana Ice-cream is made as above, using teacup less sugar, 
and juice of one lemon, or half and half orange and lemon. 

Strawberry Ice-cream. — Sprinkle strawberries with sugar, 
mash well and rub through a sieve; to a pint juice add half a pint 
good cream, make very sweet, freeze, and when half frozen, stir in 
lightly one pint of cream, whipped, and handful of whole strawber- 
ries, sweetened. Mold and pack ; or mash with a potato pounder in 
an earthen bowl one quart of strawberries with one pound of sugar; 
rub through a colander, add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Or if 
not in the strawberry season, use the French bottled strawberries (or 
any canned ones), mix juice with half a pint of cream, sweeten, freeze 
and add whipped cream and strawberries as above. Peach or Aj^ple 
I'e-cream may be made in same way, using very ripe peaches and 
the yellow bellflower apple. In molding, one can put an inch layer 
of any of the above fruit creams and then fill with Vanilla^ce-cream, 
dropping in here and there a little candied fruit. This makes Cah- 
ihet Ice-cream and can be prettily molded by placing carefully some 
of the candied fruit next mold before filling, and more elaborately 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 401 



by filling the mold two-thirds full of Almond Ice-cream ; set it in bed 
of ice and salt; then to two quarts ice-cream, whip half pint double 
cream, mix in lightly one-third pint pulverized sugar and add quar- 
ter pound each blanched almonds, candied cherries, pears and 
apricots, first soaking fruits and nuts in a hot sugar syrup till soft, 
then chopping into dice and lightly dusting with pulverized sugar ; 
mix this prepared cream carefully through the ice-cream in mold, 
put on cover, bind and pack as directed. For Sui'prise Ice-cream, 
put three pints of strawberries in a deep dish with one cup pulverized 
sugar and juice of one orange ; whip four pints cream and add two 
cups sugar, freeze, take out beater and draw frozen cream to sides of 
freezer. Fill space in center with the strawberries and sugar, and 
pile the frozen cream over them. Put on cover and pack as di- 
rected. When the cream is turned out, garnish the base with straw- 
berries. Raspberries or any fruit may be used in same way, taking 
a little less sugar for sweeter fruits, and may be molded as in Fruit 
Surprise. 

Tea Ice-cream. — Pour a pint cream over four tablespoons Old 
Hyson tea, scald in custard kettle, or by placing the dish contain- 
mg it in a kettle of boiling water, remove from fire and let stand 
five minutes ; strain into a pint cold cream, scald again, and when 
hot mix with it four eggs and teacup and a half sugar, well beaten 
together ; let cool and freeze. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. — Mix three pints sweet cream, pint new 
milk, pint pulverized sugar, whites of two eggs, beaten light ; freeze. 
Serve plain or as Fruit Surprise by lining a mold with it, then fill 
center with fresh berries, sweetened, or fruit cut in slices, and cover 
with the ice-cream, put on lid, bind and set in freezer for half an 
hour, with salt and ice well packed around it. The fruit must be 
chilled, but not frozen. Strawberries and peaches are delicious thus 
prepared. Or for Vanilla Custard Ice-cream, cook in kettle in 
proportion of one quart cream, six eggs and teacup and a half sugar ; 
strain, cool, add third of tablespoon vanilla and freeze as directed; 
reserving the whites, beating and adding when custarri is half frozen, 
makes it lighter ; adding when this is frozen ready to pack, half pint 
mixed candied cherries, raisins, currants and citron prepared as in 
Cabinet Ice-cream, makes Tutti Frutti Ice-cream. 

Cream Biscuit. — These are generally made of all cream, although 
we give a recipe with prtrt milk and three with a syrup. The cream 
must be pure double cream, whipped to a stiff froth and drained on 
sieve as directed. There are only one or two kinds that are frozen 
as ice-cream ; fur the others, molds, paper cases, fruit cases, etc., are 
filled with the mixture and placed in the cave, as directed, for three 
or four hours. The cave in which the ice-cream freezer is utilized is 
best, and using the same care in packing as with ice-cream there 
would be no necessity for a different cover or for binding the joint 



402 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 

after covered ; so the only additional article needed would be a set 
of shelves to fill the size freezer used, and it would be wise to have 
two or three extra shelves with feet of different heights so that in- 
dividual molds, glasses, fruit cases and any other receptacle in 
which ice-cream, biscuits, ices, etc., are molded could be frozen. 
Or as a substitute for all a large tin pail can be used for freezer and 
round pieces to fit made of heavy white card-board for shelves, plac- 
ing them on top each layer of cases, etc. When thus'used do not 
fill cases quite full and after placing a layer of them in pail, cover 
with a round piece of clean white paper to fit, then the card-board 
shelf, then more cases and so on till all are used, when cover pail, pack 
and finish as directed. Below are recipes of different varieties of 
biscuits. 

Custard Biscuit. — Beat well eight yolks of eggs, with teacup 
and a quarter sugar, a very little salt and one pint cream. Stir over 
the fire until slightly thickened. Flavor with either vanilla pow- 
der, the almond or lemon extract or coffee or chocolate. It may also 
be made by adding ajjuree of peaches, strawberries, ras])berries, or 
pine-apple to cu-stard. Freeze as ice-cream and when half frozen 
stir in lightly one-half pint of cream, whipped ; then partly fill pa- 
per cases with the mixture, smooth over the tops and place in ice- 
cream cave. 

Fruit Biscuit. — Beat yolks of eight eggs and four teacups 
sugar well together, add quart of any fruit juice, cook in custard 
kettle, strain and place on ice, and add to it two ounces gelatine, dis- 
solved by adding a very little warm water, placing it in pan of hot 
Avater and setting on back of range. When mixture thickens add 
quart cream, fill cases, and place in cave. 

Italian Biscuit. — Boil together pint each granulated sugar and 
water twenty minutes, add well-beaten white of an egg and boil ten 
minutes longer. Strain into an earthen dish and add yolks of 
twelve eggs and whites of two and five tablespoons orange juice. 
Set dish in a pan of hot water during process of beating. Beat 
bi'iskl}^ until it resembles a well-prepared, firm, sponge-cake batter. 
Fill cases with it and smooth over tops and pack and freeze as 
above. Or the mixture may be frozen in one mold, and some sifted 
macaroon powder or grated chocolate sprinkled over the surface, to 
imitate a baked souMe, and with care the hot salamander maybe used. 
By adding three-quarters pint peach pulp and stirring lightly with 
the mixture half pint cream, whipped, and a quarter teaspoon va- 
nilla, luscious Peach Biscuit vi'ill be the result, and can be filled in 
paper cases, or in the Brick mold, or in a long mold just the width and 
height of the cases, and when frozen, turn out, cut in slices, or if in 
long mold in pieces size of cases and frost with a Chocolate Ice, 
made of half pint syrup and four ounces best chocolate, smoothly 
mixed, and frozen ; or a Strawberry or Raspberry Ice may be used, 



ICES AND TCE-CREAM, 40c 



and some add to the ice whites of three eggs beaten well with three 
tablespoons sugar. Serve in paper cases. Or for Strawberry 
Biscuit add pint strawberry pulp instead of peach and then the 
half pint cream, whipped. Fill in cases and surround each with a 
band of stiff paper, reaching half an inch above the edge of the 
case, pinning ends together to secure them ; freeze in cave, and Avhen 
ready to serve, remove the bands and cover with macaroons bruised 
fine and browned in oven, and one can quickly use the Salamander 
iron if liked. The bands of paper are meant to give the appearance 
to the biscuit of having risen in process of baking. 

Nut Biscuit.— Make a syrup as in Vanilla Biscuit, cool and 
add the nuts blanched and prepared as for ice-cream, quarter pound 
shelled nuts to each quart cream, and the well-beaten yolks of eight 
eggs ; return to fire, stir quickly till it thickens, coating the spoon, 
then strain into a large bowl and beat till cold. Whip quart cream 
and add lightly with half teaspoon almond extract, if almond or 
pistachio nuts are used, and fill in cases. Any flavoring may be 
used, and blanched nuts and candied fruits, prepared as in Cabinet 
Ice-cream, may be added just before filling cases. 

Vanilla Biscuit. — Beat well together the yolks of eight eggs, 
and eight ounces powdered sugar. Flavor one pint new milk with 
vanilla, and boil it. Dissolve in a vessel set in hot water one and 
a half ounce of gelatine, and as soon as it is dissolved mix with the 
boiling milk, pour slowly over eggs and sugar, stirring all the time ; 
when well mixed pass through a sieve and put in very cold place to 
cool. Whip one pint cream and add it slowly to the cold mixture ; 
fill cases and freeze. Or, With Syrup., cook in custard kettle tea- 
cup and a quarter sugar and one gill water, add yolks of eight eggs 
and stir well for five or ten minutes ; strain into an earthen bowl 
and beat with an egg beater till it is stiff and cold. Whip quart 
thick double cream, flavor with quarter tablespoon vanilla and stir 
it lightly into the above ; fill the cases, pack in cave, and finish as 
directed ; or part of mixture may be colored and flavored with rasp- 
berry syrup and placed in bottom of cases, then fill them with the 
plain vanilla and freeze. Or in Fruit Biscuit., fill two-thirds full 
with the mixture, freeze, and fill up with some water-ice that blends 
with the flavor used in mixture : For Strawberry Biscuit use a 
layer of Orange Ice ; for Pineapple Biscuit, Lemon Ice, etc. Any of 
the above mixtures may be made more elaborate by glazing, but as 
that needs a confectioner's skill we will not describe it ; but the mere 
icing of them is given in Strawberry Biscuit, and one can cover 
their tops when ready to serve with whipped cream or with a plain 
meringue, and the mixture can also be filled in Lemon or Orange 
cases, made by cutting off top from fruit and carefully removing 
pulp. 

Sherhet Crystal. — Boil one pint sugar and pint and half 



404 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



water fifteen or twenty minutes, beat yolks of fifteen eggs very light 
and strain. Place syrup in custard kettle and add yolks, beating 
with an egg-whisk for ten minutes. Remove inner kettle from fire, 
place in a pan of cold M'^ater and continue beating fifteen min- 
utes. Pack mold in ice and salt, and spread on sides and bottom 
of it one quart Strawberry or Raspberry Sherbet ; when hardened, 
put the cooked mixture in center, being careful not to disturb the 
sherbet, cover all with a piece of thick white paper, put on cover 
and finish as directed in packing molds. 

Glazed Meringue. — Any ice-cream maybe meringued and glazed 
successfully. Boiltliree-quarters pint milk and stir in tablespoon gela- 
tine that has been soaked an hour or two in half cup cold water, strain 
into quart cream, add tablespoon vanilla and half pound pulverized 
sugar ; when frozen, take out beater and pack the cream smoothly, be- 
ing careful to have the top perfectly level,and pack with ice as directed. 
When ready to serve, make a meringue of the whites of six eggs and 
six tablespoons pulverized sugar. Turn the cream out on a fancy 
dish and cover every part well with the meringue. Brown with a 
red hot salamander or shovel and serve immediately ; or put the 
frozen cream in round mold and imbed in ice and salt; have a 
flat round sponge ca,ke on plate, and when ready to serve turn mold 
quickly out upon it, cover with the meringue and glaze as above. 
Another way to serve any ice cream, without the glazing, is to bake 
a sponge cake in one of the crown molds, ice it with a white icing, 
and w]ien ready to serve place on platter, spread inside with any 
fruit jelly liked and fill center with any ice-cream, frozen in freezer 
but not molded ; heap whipped cream, sweetened, on top of center 
and around base of cake and serve. 

Frozen Padding. — Put one pint milk in custard kettle, beat 
three eggs and teacup sugar together, and add, stirring all the while. 
Pour the hot custard on twenty-five dry lady fingers, add cup dried 
currants and let cool. When cold, add two tablespoons orange 
juice and pint cream, whipped to a froth. Freeze the same as ice- 
cream. When frozen wet a melon mold in cold water, sprinkle a few 
currants on the sides and bottom and fill with frozen mixture ; bind 
and pack as directed. Serve with Apricot Sauce around it. Or 
With Gelatine^ take dozen each macaroons and cocoa-nut cakes, doz- 
en and a half lady fingers, and a cup dried currants. Prepare mold as 
above, sprinkle sides and bottom with currants and put in lay- 
ers of the cakes, sprinkling with currants till all are used. Put a 
pint and a half milk in custard kettle, when hot, stir in two table- 
spoons gelatine, soaked one hour in half cup cold milk, then add 
four eggs beaten well with teacup sugar, and cook four minutes, stir- 
ring all the while. Take off", and add pinch salt and one teaspoon 
vanilla. Pour this, a few spoonfuls at a time, on the cake and let 
cool. When cold, cover with thick white paper, and it is well to 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 405 



let paper extend over the edges and then close the cover tight upon 
it ; bind and pack in ice and salt. Or a more elaborate pudding is made 
by adding to the gelatine custard a pint cream and three more eggs, 
while cooking ; remove from fire and add half tablespoon nectarine 
extract and strain into mold till within half an inch of top, 
having first half filled it with cake, fruit and nuts, placed in layers as 
above, using macaroons, lady fingers, currants, seedless raisins, 
citron and blanched almonds, preparing currants, raisins and cit- 
ron as in Cabinet Ice-cream and chopping the almonds. Now cut 
a piece from a sheet of sponge cake to fit top and place on the cus- 
tard, cover tightly with the lid and let the pudding cool. When 
cold, bind and pack as directed, for three or four hours. Serve with 
any pudding sauce, or a rich custard, or whipped cream, sweetened. 
Anv kind of stale cake, macaroons or meringues, dried or preserved 
fruit, candied fruit or flavoring may be used, although for the latter 
our confectioner tells us that Nectarine Extract is more delicious 
for cabinet puddings ; while we have had success in all fruit pud- 
dings in mixing the flavor, vanilla and lemon, half and half. The 
famous Nesselrode Pudding can be made with or without eggs and 
diflfers very little from any of the iced puddings, save there must be 
chestnuts in it. With Eggs^ boil or blanch forty chestnuts, and as 
in ice-cream the Italian are best to use, peel, mash and rub through 
a sieve and cook in custard kettle with yolks of twelve eggs, pint 
cream and two teacups sugar; when it thickens strain and add 
teaspoon vanilla and pinch salt ; or mix the chestnut pulp with clari- 
fied syrup, pint sugar and pint water, as in Italian Biscuit, add cream 
and eggs as above and place in custard kettle, stirring constantly 
until it begins to thicken, remove and add vanilla. When either 
mixture is cold, put in freezer and freeze, adding when partly frozen, 
four tablespoons orange juice, pint of cream, whipped, and two 
ounces each citron, currants and raisins, three ounces each preserved 
pine-apples, and candied apricots and cherries, soaked or cooked in 
syrup as above ; then chop raisins,-elice citron very fine and cut the 
pine-apple and apricots into dice ; or put mixture in freezer, and 
freeze without stirring, scraping down the cream from sides of can 
with the paddle as fast as it freezes and lightly mixing till smooth. 
Cover, and when frozen place inmold, stirring carefully into it the 
fruit prepared as above, and pint cream, whipped ; cover, bind, and 
set in cave. To make Without Eggs^iokQ a pint chestnut pulp, add 
two teacups sugar and rub to a smooth paste, add teaspoon vanilla 
and mix it gently with a pint of cream, whipped ; put in freezer and 
freeze without stirring, as above ; then add to it quarter pound each 
currants, raisins and citron, prepared as directed ; put in molds and 
place in cave or the pail as described. Serve with any pudding 
sauce, custard or whipped cream. Or, With Pineapple^ boil one 
pint and a half shelled chestnuts half an hour, rub on skins, pound 
to a paste and to it add a pint shelled almonds, blanched and pre- 



406 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 




pared as above. Make a syrup of pint each sugar and water and the 
juice from one can pine-apple, cook twenty minutes in custard kettle 
and add beaten yolks of eleven eggs, placing on 
back of range and stirring constantly till it thick- 
ens, some using an egg beater. Take off, place 
inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat 
fifteen minutes longer and let c ool ; then mix 
nut paste w^ith half pint cream and rub through' 
the sieve, add to mixture and freeze. Prepare MeiionMoia. 

three-quarters pound mixed French candied fruit, as in Cabinet 
Ice-cream, chop and add with the canned pine-apple cut fine, table- 
spoon vanilla, six tablespoons orange juice and half pint cream, 
whipped, when mixture is half frozen, or when ready to mold. 
A melon mold makes the handsomest dish and when served 
stick here and there roasted chestnuts or blanched almonds, dipped 
in a candy syrup, then slightly cooled, and also garnish the melon 
with . them. Some add the candied fruit, flavoring, etc., to the 
mixture before freezing, but the extra trouble will well repay one. 

Strawberry Vanity. — Beat yolks of nine eggs and two teacups 
pulverized sugar to a cream, and to this add one quart strawberry 
juice, prepared as for Strawberry Ice-cream, mixed with two teacups 
sugar till all dissolved. Place mixture on ice and strain into it half 
box gelatine, dissolved, and when it thickens slightly, stir in gently 
one quart pure double cream, whipped. When it begins to harden, 
fill in a large mold, or individual molds, and pack. Serve in two or 
three hours, as Vanities are more like the different creams and do 
not want to be as hard as ice-cream. Whole strawberries may be 
dropped in just before molding. Serve with whipped cream sweet- 
ened, or it is nice with simply sweetened cream, flavored with straw- 
berry juice; or with a custard made by cooking in custard kettle 
one pint milk or cream, yolks of three eggs and half teacup sugar ; 
remove from fire and add the Avell-whipped whites, quarter pint 
strawberry juice and a teaspoon orange juice and let become ice-cold. 
The same flavor of Vanities can be made as of ice-creams, using same 
proportion of fruit juice as above, and candied and preserved fruits 
can be added as before in ice-creams. For other flavors as vanilla,cof- 
fee, chocolate, etc., use quart water instead of fruit juice. Orange and 
Lemon Vanities maybe served in the Fruit Cases by cutting off 
about an inch from the top of fruit corresponding to the Vanity, 
carefully taking out the pulp and filling with the mixture ; or a more 
economical way is to cut fruit in halves, take out pulp, then paste 
on a rim of buttered paper extending an inch and a half above the 
edge, fill and place in Ice-cream Cave ; or any Vanity can be filled in 
a cake-case as described on bottom of page 108 and then placed in 
cave. It would be better to first loosen cake from mold, then 
return to mold, carefully cut out center, fill and set in cave in 
the cake-mold, as that would keep it in shape. When ready to serve 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 407 



take out carefully, invert on platter, placing it right side up, and 
heap a meringue or whipped cream upon the Vanity in center. In 
Lemon YanHy use only one and a half pints juice, and in Banana 
and Chocolate use teacup less sugar. 



Ices. 



These are generally made of water, sugar and juice of fruits, al- 
though the fruit juice is used alone with its measurement of sugar, 
as pint for pint. The juice is obtained by rubbing fruit through a 
wire sieve, all except oranges and lemons (as with them none of the 
pulp is used), and then straining through the ice-cream, or three 
cornered jelly strainer, although with peaches, apples, apricots, etc., 
some prefer the pulp also, and do not strain. Where any seeded 
fruits are used, it gives a fine flavor to leave a few of the kernels of 
the seed in the pulp for an hour or so, and some mash them to a 
paste and add, straining juice when used, but as in all flavoring, 
give only a slight hint rather than a decided taste. In making the 
first kind, if the water and sugar are not well mixed before freezing, 
the sugar will sink to bottom and there will be a sharp unpleasant 
taste, or the mixture will be granular and mushy in texture, like a 
hardened mixture of sweetened snow and water, and melt very 
quickly, even in the freezer, if it is left open a few moments, and will 
soon become soft and spongy. But by following directions given 
ices can be made as smooth and firm as the best ice-cream and much 
resemble it in texture. The sugar and water must be cooked in a 
custard kettle to a clear syrup and clarified, scum removed, and 
the hot syrup strained through the ice-cream strainer and let be- 
come ice-cold. Pour it into freezer, packed as for ice-cream, add the 
strained fruit juice, and other materials, if any, and freeze as directed ; 
it will usually take from fifteen to twenty minutes to effect the first 
freezing of ices, as they require more time than ice-cream. Then 
open can, scrape down sides, and beat till smooth, and add (to 
three pints water) one white of egg, beatenwith a tablespoon pulver- 
ized sugar to a stiff" froth, or Meringue^ and work as smoothly as pos- 
sible. Too many whites of eggs are apt to give a milky look, as 
they melt out rapidly. Draw off" brine, renew ice and salt, place the 



408 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 

"brine blanket" over all as in ice-cream, and let stand to harden and 
ripen, for two or three hours. Open can, renew beating, repack as 
before and when frozen, serve. 

Water-ices increase in bulk one-half when frozen as above. For 
what are termed Granites or Sherbets, where a syrup is not made 
nor the meringue added, turn out as soon as half frozen, or as wet 
snow. When Fruit Flavors are used, add them to the syrup when 
partially cooled, or place in dish in a pan of hot water and beat till 
melted and then add. Use earthen bowls, crocks, wooden spoons, 
etc., for mixing as in ice-cream. ■ For ices, a good general rule is 
pint syrup to each pint fruit juice, or pint and a half Fruit Flavor, and 
to make syrup, take pint and a half granulated sugar to one pint 
water, boil fifteen minutes, add half of white of an egg, well beaten, 
let boil, strain and cool. Any of the fruit shrubs or fruit juices, 
canned expressly for this, make delicious ices, and juice from can- 
ned plums and all the berries may be used with good results. The 
above is one rule, but we give many different recipes that have been 
successfully used, making different grades of richness, flavoring, etc., 
although care must be taken not to make too sweet as it will not 
freeze as readily. 

Ices are usually served in glasses as illustrated, but if molded, must 
have a small quantity of dissolved gelatine added to enable them to 
keep their shape. After mold is filled make 
air-tight by placing a piece of writing paper 
around the edges, and then shutting cover "^^^SS^SbSSS"!^^ 
of mold upon it ; bind and pack as directed, 

and when ready to serve wipe the ice and salt off mold very carefully 
and dip in cold water. Ices when frozen should be perfectly smooth 
and soft enough to yield easily to the spoon, if brittle or solid it is 
an indication that too much water has been used. A pretty orna- 
mentation for them is made by preparing a gelatine jelly in the usual 
manner, then reduce by slow boiling to little more than half, color 
as desired, strain, flavor, and cool on large platters, pouring it about 
third inch thick ; when cold cut out with any of the vegetable cut- 
ters, leaves, flowers,etc., place on the molded ices and also garnish with 
them when served. This is equally ornamental for ice-cream. 
Any fresh fruit cut in pieces, or candied or preserved fruit, or nuts, 
the last three prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, may be added j ast 
before molding, or if not molded just before serving the ice. It is 




ICES AND iCE- CREAM. 409 

especially necessary with ices that they be beaten up well before 
dishing from freezer, and in using canned fruit use less water in 
proportion to fruit. 



Apple Ice. — Grate, sweeten and freeze yellow bellflower apples ; 
canned apples may be mashed and prepared in same way. Pears, 
peaches or quinces can also be frozen as above. Or make a syrup 
of three pints of water and four teacups sugar ; let cool. Quickly 
slice unpared, tart and nicely flavored apples, then chop, mash and 
rub through wire sieve until a pint of pulp and juice is obtained, 
which add immediately to syrup ; freeze, add meringue and finish as 
directed. Peachy Pear, Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine and Phim Ices 
are made in same manner. Canned fruit may be used with less 
water in syrup and if Fruit Flavor is used, take proportion as given. 

Apricot Ice. — Cut in pieces two cups best apricots and stew 
with the blanched kernels in two cups water and one cup sugar un- 
til tender, then rub through sieve and put in freezer. Freeze, and 
when partly frozen beat in well-frothed whites of two eggs, or the 
meringue as described above, and finish as directed. Just before 
serving stir in cup sliced apricots. Canned apricots may be used 
with their syrup using less water. Peach Ice may be prepared in 
same way. 

Cherry' Ice. — Take two quarts sweet cherries, one of water and 
three teacups sugar. Pound fruit in mortar so as to break the stones 
and strain the juice through a fine strainer. Boil the cherry pulp 
with some of the sugar and water to extract the flavor from the ker- 
nels, and rub that through the sieve ; mix all together and freeze. 
This may be molded with a nut cream by linings mold with the 
ice and filling the middle with the cream ; bind and pack as 
directed. Or if served direct from the freezer, place the ice as a border 
in the individual dishes aud the nut ice-cream in the center. This 
is a nice way to serve diflerent creams and ices. 

Citron Ice. — Make two quarts rich lemonade, well flavored with 
the rind ; if grated rind is used, the lemonade must be strained before 
putting in citron. Slice enough citron thin and small to loosely 
fill a half-pint measure, and add to lemonade. Let boil a moment, 
or if made previous evening, this will not be necessary ; cool, freeze, 
and when partly frozen add the meringue and finish as directed. 
Preserved Watermelon can be used in same way. 

Currant Ice. — Boil down three pints water and a pound and a 
half sugar to a quart, skim, add two cups currant juice, and when 
partly frozen, add whites of five eggs. 



410 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



Gooseherry Ice. — Stew gooseberries until soft, squeeze through 
ice-cream strainer, and to every pint juice add pint and a half gran- 
ulated sugar and pint water ; mix well, and freeze ; when half frozen 
add whipped whites of three eggs. 

Ora'pe Ice. — Stew a cup ripe Concord grapes, mash with a pint 
sugar, add juice of a lemon and pint water, strain and freeze. 

Lemon Ice. — To one pint lemon juice, add one quart sugar, and 
one quart water, in Avhich the thin rind of three lemons has been 
allowed to stand until highly flavored ; when partly frozen add the 
whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Or prepare nine lemons 
and three oranges, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, being very careful to 
extract every seed, as they cause a bitter taste. To a syrup made of 
quart and a half water and four teacups sugar add lemon juice, will 
be about half pint, and half as much orange, and when partly frozen 
add the meringue of one egg ; prepare zest from only half the lemons. 
Serve in glasses with tablespoon meringue, (whites of two eggs 
beaten well witk two tablespoons sugar), flavored with orange juice, 
on each glass. 

Orange Ice. — Make as above, using nine oranges and one lemon ; 
when frozen fill in the orange fruit cases and place in Ice-cream 
Cave for three or four hours, and it is then made more delicious by 
covering the ice in each case with a meringue and browning quickly 
with a red hot salamander, serving immediately. The orange pulp 
taken from cases can be used in obtaining juice. Or make a thick 
syrup by boiling two teacups sugar with teacup water; divide three 
c^" the oranges, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and drop the 
pirces into the boiling syrup, first extracting the seeds ; grate the 
yellow zest of the remaining three oranges into a bowl and squeeze 
in the juice; then pour the syrup from the scalded slices into the 
bowl, and keep^he slices on ice, to be added last. Add quart water 
and juice of a small lemon to syrup, strain and freeze. When partly 
frozen whip four whites firm, stir them in and beat up the ice till it 
looks like cream ; cover closely and pack with more ice and salt, and 
when done mix in gently the orange slices, without breaking them. 
Serve in ice-cups, glasses or saucers. Rasjpherry and Strawberry 
Ice can be made as above, using with the lemon juice, a little orange 
juice also in the strawberry. 

Peach Ice. — Make a syrup or not as liked, in proportion as 
given in directions and add one can or twelve fresh peaches well 
mashed. When frozen add beaten whites of three eggs and finish as 
directed. Or, peel and quarter the fresh peaches, add syrup, and put 
at once in mold, having first placed some of the slices of peaches 
in bottom of mold ; cover, bind and pack for five or six hours ; cream 
and sugar mav be used instead of the sj'-rup, making Peaches and 
Crea/m Ice. Whipping the cream is an addition. 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 411 

Pine-apple Ice. — Bruise a half pound fresh pine-apple in a 
mortar, add juice of one lemon, half pint water, pint clariiied syrup, 
strain and freeze, adding the meringue when half frozen if wished. 
For Tutti Frutti Ice^ place a layer of Lemon or above ice in a 
Brick mold, making it quarter full, and place in ice and salt ; then 
mix an equal portion each candied apricots, cherries, strawberries 
or any fruits wished, and blanched almond or pistachio nuts, pre- 
pared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, in all about a pound of mixture, with 
a quart of Strawberry or Orange Ice, and add to mold till three- 
fourths full ; smooth and add of first ice, Lemon or Pine-apple, till 
full to overflowing. Bind and pack as directed for three or four 
hours. Preserved fruits may be used, prepared as in ice-cream 
directions, and a little preserved ginger or angelica root is a choice 
addition. Use other ices also, according to different tastes. 

Snoio /ce.— Add quarter pound sugar to half pint cream, and 
flavor highly with vanilla or lemon ; if lemon juice is used, more 
sugar will be required. Stir in newly-fallen snow until thick as ice- 
cream, and any kind of fruit juice may be used instead of cream. 
In either case the snow must not be added until just before serving. 

Strawberrji Ice. — Nice sound fruit should be obtained, stems 
removed, and the berries gently wiped perfectly clean and dry ; then 
put into a dish, and place pulverized sugar over them, stirring with 
'a wooden spoon until fruit is slightly mashed. Rub pint pulp with 
gill and a half juice through wire sieve, add pint clarified syrup 
y>/v v>v ^^^ freeze. Pour into small glasses, and 
' arrange in dish as illustrated, on a foun- 
dation of green leaves ; or mash two quarts 

strawberries with two pounds sugar; let 

Strawberry Ice. staud au hour or morc, squeeze in a crash 

strainer, pressing out all juice, add equal measure water j and when 
half frozen, add the white of one egg loeaten with tablespoon pulver- 
ized sugar. 

Colorings. — For Blue rub a piece of indigo with a little water 
and add by drops to the mixture to be colored until the desired 
shade is reached. For Brown use grated chocolate, or for a very 
light brown. Caramel., which is prepared for immediate use by put- 
ting cup granulated sugar in iron skillet or frying-pan set over fire, 
and stirring constantly until a dark brown color and as thick as 
molasses. When properly done a cup sugar will make five table- 
spoons coloring. When preparing for bottling, boil a longer time, 
then add a half pint water and boil again, until a little cooled in 
saucer is found thick as molasses or honey. If too thick, or if it 
candies, add a little more water and boil again. Bottle, and if kept 
corked it will never spoil. For Green use either the Parsley or 
Spinach Coloring, given on page 180. For Pinh use strawberry, 
currant or cranberry juice or jelly. If a bright Bed is desired, mix 




412 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 

one drachm each pulverized alum and cream tartar, four drachms 
powdered cochineal, two ounces loaf sugar and saltspoon soda ; or 
same proportions in level tablespoons are two-thirds tablespoon pul- 
verized alum, half tablespoon cream tartar, two and a half of pow- 
dered cochineal, four of pounded loaf sugar and the saltspoon soda; 
boil ten minutes in half pint pure soft water and when cool bottle 
and cook for use. For Yellow., use the juice of a carrot or the 
grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice or a lit- 
tle water, and squeezed through a cloth. When a deeper color is 
wanted boil a little American saffron with a little water till a bright 
yellow, strain and cool, and use enough to give desired shade ; some 
use a mixture of an ounce turmeric with four of deodorized alcohol, 
shaking till dissolved and then straining and bottling. No objec- 
tion can be made to the use of any of the above, save perhaps to the 
blue, which is very seldom used, and only for Ornamental Icing. 
The others are all fruit or vegetable preparations, and their use adds 
greatly to the handsome appearance of ices and ice-creams, icing, 
jellies, cakes, creams and pudding and other sauces. To guard 
against getting in too much coloring, use by putting in a very little 
at first, mixing well, then add a very little more until desired 
shade is obtained. 

Gopher Orange Ice — Make a syrup of three pints water and 
one quart sugar; wlien cool add tvvo gills lemon juice and three of 
orange juice ; freeze and when half frozen add white of one egg, beat- 
en well with tablespoon sugar. Thoroughly beat it with the ice, finish 
freezing and serve. Strawberries or slices of pineapples gently stir- 
red i\ri:o\xg\\justhefore serving Cif added too long before, they freeze 
and are unpleasant to eat) make a delicious variety. Pine-apple 
Ice may be made of canned pine-apple using pint of juice, and gill 
lemon juice with above proportion of syrup, adding the pine-apple 
cut in dice just before serving, if wished. With all ices it is always 
better to add a gill of lemon juice, as the acid assists in the freezing 
and also adds to the flavor. Any proportions of the recipe may be 
made ; above makes about two dozen dishes. 



ICING. 413 



ICING^. 



Nothing adds more to the elegance of a well spread table then 
a handsomely iced and ornamented cake, which with a little care 
and painstaking can as well be prepared at home as ordered from 
the caterer, and at much less expense. For a plain quickly made 
icing for a loaf of cake of ordinary size take white of one egg and 
eleven heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar. If obtainable, use the 
confectioners' sugar known as ''XXX." Be careful not to get in any 
of the yolk of the eggs, as then the icing will not beat up well, and be 
sure the bowl, spoon or spatula, and all utensils used are perfectly 
free from grease. Beat well, and do not attempt to make the icing 
thick and stiff by adding sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing de- 
pends upon good beating as well as quantity 
of sugar. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and 
add pulverized sugar gradually, beating all yrooiea spatma. 

the time. A wooden spatula is better than a spoon for beating in 
the sugar. There are various opinions about the length of time 
icing should be beaten, some giving half an hour, others a much 
shorter time. Some break the whites into a broad platter and at 
once begin adding sugar, and keep adding gradually, beating well 
all the while until all sugar is dissolved and the icing is perfectly 
smooth. Thirty minutes' beating ought to be sufficient. Lastly, 
add flavoring, rose, pine-apple or almond for white or delicate cake, 
and lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake. The same amount of 
material, prepared with the whites of eggs unbeaten, will make one- 
third less icing than if the eggs are beaten to a stiff froth before 
adding the sugar; but those who prefer this method think the 
icing is enough smoother and softer to pay for the extra quantity 
required. There is a medium method much used by the best of 



414 ICING. 

housekeepers ; the eggs are beaten to a slight foam, sugar added 
gradually, or all at once, and when thoroughly incorporated, flavor 
and use. Sometimes the whites of eggs will not froth readily, when 
add a pinch of alum, sugar, salt or soda ; a teaspoon lemon juice or 
a little citric acid whitens icing, and the white of one egg whipped 
separately and beaten in just before putting on the'*cake makes the 
icing smooth and glossy. A little corn-starch helps to thicken ic- 
ing. If the flavor is lemon juice, allow more sugar for the additional 
liquid. 

Have the icing ready when the cake is baked and be sure that 
it is thoroughly beaten before removing cake from oven ; if pos- 
sible, have some one beating while cake is being removed. Invert 
a common tin milk-pan, placing it on a clean paper, so that if any 
icing falls off it can be used again, then place the cake on the pan, 
trim off all unsightly excrescences with a clean, sharp knife and ap- 
ply icing, pouring it around the center of the cake and smoothing oflF 
as quickly as possible with a knife ; it should run over the cake, be- 
coming as smooth as glass, and adhere firmly to it. If the icing is 
a little stiff' dip the knife in cold water. Dredging the cake well 
with flour when taken from the oven and wiping carefully before ic- 
ing will keep the icing from running ; when icing only the top of cake, 
place a rim of stiff white paper around it to keep the icing in place 
until it sets. If but one person is engaged in preparing cake and ic- 
ing, and must necessarily stop beating while getting the cake in 
readiness, it will be best to beat the icing a few minutes again be- 
fore placing on cake. As eggs vary in size, some common sense" 
must be used in the quantity of sugar. Practice only will teach just 
how stiff icing ought to be. An excellent proportion is three-fourths 
teacup pulverized sugar to the white of one full-sized egg, but more 
sugar is sometimes required. In preparing for a large party, when 
it is inconvenient to ice each cake as it is taken from the oven, and 
a number have become cold, place in the oven to heat before icing. 
If wanted very nice, put the icing on in two coats, letting the first 
dry before putting on the second, when the icing left may be suffi- 
ciently thinned with water, if necessary, to work smoothly, or more 
icing may be prepared, taking care to have it just soft enough to run 
smoothly, and yet not run off cake — better to be a little too stiff 
than too thin. To apply the second coat, place the icing in a lump 
in center of cake, and let it run level of its own accord ; or if a lit- 



ICING. 415 

tie stiff, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite 
to edge of cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the 
edge of itself; if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake 
and shake it a little, which will cause all the rough parts to become 
smooth. To ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar to the 
icing, and beat it in well ; then with the knife place it on the sides of 
cake until fully covered ; and by holding the knife perpendicularly, 
with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the 
icing, draw it all around the side of the cake ; when it comes round 
to the starting point, suddenly give the knife a twist, and turn the 
back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, 
remove the edge from contact with the icing. If this is done neatly 
and quickly one will hardly be able to find where it is joined. The 
cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for the ornamental 
icing or piping. Ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange 
flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. It is 
nice when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the 
cake in slices. 



Almond Icing. — Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting 
them in boiling water, taking off skins, and spreading upon a dry 
cloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till well 
pulverized : mix carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters 
pint powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon vanilla or 
lemon, ice the cake and dry in a cool o'S'^n or in the open air when 
weather is pleasant. Or take two cups sugar, pour over a half cup 
boiling water, cook until ropy ; beat whites of two eggs, stir into 
sugar and beat until cold ; add flavoring extract (bitter almonds is 
best), and one and a half cups blanched and chopped sweet al- 
monds. 

Boiled Icing. — Beat white of one egg to a stiff froth ; boil one 
cup granulated sugar and one-half gill or four tablespoons water till 
it threads when dropped from spoon. Pour in a fine stream while 
boiling hot, into the beaten egg, stirring briskly all the time and con- 
tinue stirring the mixture in the "round and round" way, never stop- 
ping till icing is thick and cold. Flavor as Hked. For Confectioner' s 
Boiled Icing, take whites of six eggs and beat to a stiff froth with 
half pound sifted granulated sugar. Boil another half pound sugar 
with a pint water (adding piece of cream tartar size of a pea) until 
a drop taken on the finger (first dip the finger in cold water) will 
pull into a fine thread by touching with the thumb. Then pour this 



416 ICES. 

into the whites of eggs, stirring very swiftly to cook all alike, and 
lastly add six ounces sifted XXX sugar. Or, boil three-fourths pint 
granulated sugar, moistened with four tablespoons hot water, briskly 
for five minutes or until it "jingles" on the bottom of the cup when 
dropped into cold water, or "ropes" or threads when dropped from 
the end of spoon. Then with left hand, pour the boiling syrup upon 
the well-beaten whites of three eggs in a small stream, while beating 
hard with right hand. This is an excellent frosting and may be 
flavored as liked. If preferred, add halt pound sweet ahnoiids, 
blanched and pounded to a paste, or a cup of hickory-nut meats, 
chopped fine, and it will be delicious. Some also add half cup stoned 
and chopped raisins. This will ice the top of two large cakes. An- 
other method is to beat whites of four eggs with one and one-third 
pints powdered sugar, stir in a cup water and boil all together until 
thick and creamy, adding flavoring after taking from fire. For Boiled 
Icing Without Eggs, boil a cup granulated sugar four or five min- 
tes with five tablespoons milk. Stir on ice or in cool place until cold 
and creamy, and wait until cake is cold before icing. Economical, 
and preferred by some to that with eggs. Any of the above recipes 
makes a nice Chocolate Icing with the addition of grated chocolate to 
taste. 

Chocolate Icing. — Six rounded tablespoons grated chocolate, 
one and a half cups powdered sugar, whites of three eggs ; beat whites 
but very little (they must not become white), add chocolate, stir it 
in, then pour m the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. An- 
other method used by confectioners is to put the desired quantity 
of Baker's eagle cocoa in a pan and place it in boiling water until 
cocoa is dissolved, then add powdered sugar to taste, and beat it in 
well ; to give a gloss add also the whites of two eggs, slightly whipped, 
to every pound of cocoa iffeed ; beat the sugar and whites of eggs well 
together, and with a knife spread the cocoa (or rather the chocolate 
now that it has the sugar in it, for chocolate is simply cocoa sweet- 
ened), evenly on the cake ; be as quick as possible, for as soon as it cools 
it hardens. If simple Cocoa Icing is wanted use the cocoa and whites 
of eggs only ; but if sweet or chocolate icing, add sugar. To help a 
little in first attempt, add one tablespoon hot water to a pound cocoa ; 
this will keep it moist and liquid a little longer, but it will take 
longer to harden. What is known as Cream Chocolate Icing is pre- 
pared in same manner, using half cocoa and half pure cream, and 
sweetening to taste. In this case use no whites of eggs, but simply 
dissolve the cocoa as above described, then add sugar, and afterwards 
gradually stir in cream. Chocolate icing is also used to ice jelly 
cakes and other small cakes, and chocolate eclairs ; it may also be 
used as an icing for anything, and can be piped, ornamented, or 
decorated with Piping Icing. Cocoa may also be mixed with plain 
icing ; add little or much cocoa as desired, and it may be used for 
icing a cake or for piping or ornamenting in the same manner as 



ICES. 



417 



other icing. For Chocolate Icing With Gelatine, soak a teaspoon 
gelatine one or two hours in tliree tablespoons water. Pour on it 
one-fourth cup boiling water, and stir in one and two-thirds cups 
powdered sugar. Grate two squares chocolate and stir into this 
mixture. Use immediately. For Boiled Chocolate Icing, beat one 
and two-thirds cups pulverized sugar into unbeaten whites of two 
eggs. Grate two squares chocolate, and put it and one-third cup 
sugar and four tablespoons boiling water in small frying-pan. Stir 
over a hot tire until smooth and glossy, and then stir this into beaten 
whites and sugar. Enough for two loaves or one layer cake. 
Or for a much richer icing boil two cups granulated sugar 
and half cup water together for five minutes and add small cup 
grated chocolate. When a drop hardens in cold water stir four 
whole eggs in rapidly, beating all the while. Cook five minutes, stir- 
ring constantly, and flavor with vanilla, if liked. Does not crack 
nor break, and for this reason is highly prized. To make Chocolate 
Caramel Icing, take one cup brown sugar, one square_ Baker's choc- 
olate, grated, and, one tablespoon water or milk ; simmer gently 
twenty minutes, and spread on cake while hot. Or boil half cup milk, 
coffee-cup sugpv, butter size of an egg and two tablespoons grated 
chocolate twenty minutes, or till thick. Flavor with vanilla, or some 
add a pinch best pulverized cinnamon. To ice small cakes with 
this, take them on a fork and dip into the icing deep enough to ice 
both top a^d sides. If to be put together in pyramidal form, ice the 
bottom ana sides, instead of top, because of the more uniform sur- 
face. To keep the icing from becoming cold and hard while using, 
set in a pan of hot water or over steam until all are iced. The above 
caramel is nice in which to dip the balls made in French Candy. 
For Spiced Chocolate Icing, warm a half cake chocolate in the oven 
ten minr^es ; add a heaping cup of sugar, teaspoon cinnamon, half 
teaspoon each pulverized cloves and ginger, two teaspoons vanilla, 
pour in a little water, stir all well together and melt to a smooth 
paste. 

Clear Icing. — Mix a cup nice gelatine jelly with a teaspoon 
lemon juice and whites of two eggs until smooth, and pour over the 
cake. If the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place for a few min- 
utes in a moderately warm oven. 

(Confectioner^ s Icing. — Break whites of four eggs into a large 
shallow platter in a cool room — in summer set on ice — and whip 
until they foam but do not whiten. Sift in a pound (one and one- 
third pints) powdered sugar, quite slowly, beating all the time 
steadily from the bottom so as to bring up every drop of egg at each 
sweep of the egg whip, and so continue until the mixture is as white 
and fine as snow, and can be cut with a knife as clean and smooth as 
if it were cake, when it is ready for use. Apply in two coats. Suf- 



418 ICING. 

ficient for one large or two small loaves of cake, and those Avho pre- 
fer a Hard Icing will find nothing better. 

Corn-starch Icing. — White of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, ten 
heaping teaspoons powdered sugar and one of corn-starch. 

Eggless Icing. — To one heaping teaspoon laundry starch and 
just enough cold water to dissolve it, add a little hot water and cook 
in a pan set in hot water till very thick (or cook in a crock ; either 
will prevent its burning or becoming lumpy). Stir in two and two- 
thirds cups sugar while the starch is hot ; flavor to taste, and spread 
on while the cake is a little warm. This should be made the day 
before using, as it takes longer to harden than when made with 
eggs, but it will never crumble in cutting, and is excellent. 

French Icing. — Take white of one egg with twice its bulk in 
water, about four tablespoons, and beat as stiff as possible ; then add 
XXX sugar till as thick as plain icing, or so it will spread nicely. It 
will take about one pint sugar, or three-quarters of a pound. This 
is especially nice for laj'er cakes, and in building sprinkle over each 
layer any nut meats liked, English walnuts, hickory nuts or 
blanched almonds, chopped, and for top layer place on in halves. 
One large egg or two small eggs will ice three layers. Use also for 
top of large cakes but is not nice for the sides. This is very deli- 
cious, can be put on in as thick a layer as wished, and is like 
the French Candy (uncooked), except more water is used ; when 
making it one can use part for icing and thicken the rest for the 
cand}'. 

Oelatine Icing. — Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three table 
spoon warm water, add a cup pulverized sugar and beat until smooth 
Flavor to taste. Or soak the gelatine in a tablespoon cold water 
half an hour ; dissolve in two tablespoons hot water ; add one cup 
powdered sugar and stir until smooth. 

Glaze Icing. — Stir beaten white of one egg with a little water and 
set over boiling water until the mixture boils ; then put in a few 
drops cold water, stir in a cup powdered sugar, boil to a foam and 
use. Or stir into one pound powdered sugar, one tablespoon cold 
water ; beat whites three eggs a little, not to a stiff froth, and add 
to the sugar and water ; put in a deep bowl, place in a vessel of 
boiling water and heat. It will become thin and clear, afterward 
begin to thicken. When quite thick take from fire and stir while it 
cools till thick enough to spread with a knife. This will ice several 
ordinary sized cakes. 

Isinglass Icing. — Pour a half cup boiling water on a sheet isin- 
glass and stand it in warm place to dissolve slowly. When there is 
no scum on top add a pound powdered sugar and a heaping teaspoon 



ICING. 419 

corn-starch. When cakes are cold, pour the icing over, smooth it 
down as little as possible and set away in a cool place to harden. 
Nice, and much easier than to make icing with eggs. 

Lemon Icing. — Beat whites of two eggs and two cups sugar to- 
gether, and add juice and part of the grated rind of two lemons, 
strained. Or make Confectioner's Icing and add the strained juice 
and zest of one lemon, with eight tablespoons more powdered sugar. 
Color if desired with a few drops Yellow Coloring. Orange Iciny 
made s«me, adding also teaspoon lemon juice. 

Marble Icing. — Cover cake with any plain white icing, let hard- 
en a little, color some of the icing with chocolate and spread it over 
the white, and so on as many layers as desired. Spread with a knife 
and dry in cool oven. 

Meringue Icing. — A nice icing for pies, puddings, etc., is made 
by beating the whites of six eggs to a very firm froth, they cannot 
be beaten too stiff, and if not stiff" the meringue will not be good. 
While beating add a saltspoon salt, and heaping teaspoon powdered 
sugar ; when well beaten stir in well but very lightly half a 
pound (a little more than half a pint) powdered sugar; with a 
knife spread a coating of the meringue all over the pie after baking, 
and if wanted ornamented fill a cone with the meringue icing and 
proceed to work out some design. When 
finished return to oven to take a light brown 
color. Any design may be worked with this 
as well as with other icing, but the patterns 
are larger and are done with a cone with a 
larger portion cut off the point. For centers 
of meringue pies use such designs as a swan, . 
an ear of corn, an anchor, a "true lover's 
knot," a Maltese cross, a bunch of grapes, 
or whatever fancy dictates ; the pie may be 

decorated with fruit jelly in addition to the 

Meringue Top. mcriugue piping, putting on the jelly with a 

cone, and in the same manner as the piping. Chocolate is not used 
on meringue work, neither is the meringue ever colored except a 
light cream ; pink colored sugar is sometimes sprinkled over it. To 
color pink simply drop a little cochineal color on some granulated 
sugar, and rub it together until colored, then dry, rub it apart and 
keep in bottle ready for use. It will keep its color for years. This 
icing is used on lemon pies, peach pies, etc. 

Orange Icing. — Mix a half pound powdered sugar with one 
tablespoonful each orange juice and boiling water, and half the grat- 
ed rind of an orange ; beat till fine and smooth, strain, and spread 
on the cake, while still warm, about an eighth of an inch thick, 




420 ICING. 

smoothing it carefully with a wet knife. This is especially nice for 
sponge cake. 

Pearl Icing. — Break whites of three eggs in clean china bowl 
with a round bottom. Add about half pound finest powderedsugar 
and beat vigorously with a wooden spatula till it begins to thicken, 
then add level saltspoon cream tartar and one drop indigo blue ; add 
about quarter pound sugar ; continue beating and add more sugar, 
a teaspoon at a time, until the icing is as thick as wished, using in 
all about a pound. 

Plain Icing. — Beat whites of three eggs until frothy, not white' 
adding one and a third pints powdered sugar gradually with one 
hand, beating briskly with the other. Flavor with teaspoon vanilla. 
Another proportion is whites of two eggs to a half pound sugar (a 
little more than a half pint), with a little lemon juice or tartaric 
acid to whiten. When icing sponge cake with plain icing it is an 
improvement to first grate orange peel over top of cake. 

Quick Icing. — Put cup sugar into abowl with a tablespoon lemon 
juice and uuAvhipped whites of two eggs, or add the sugar gradually. 
Beat together until just smooth and pour over the cake ; if the cake 
is not hot enough to dry it, place in a moderately warm oven. 

Snow Icing. — Put one pint white sugar, unbeaten whites of 
three eggs and a teaspoon rose or lemon extract into an earthen 
dish, stir well together and set in saucepan boiling water ; stir con- 
stantly and cook eight or ten minutes, or until white and glistening. 
Put on cake while icing is warm, as it hardens quickly. 

Soft Icing. — Mix a half pound finely pulverized, sifted sugar, 
with a tablespoon boiling water, and the same of lemon or any fruit 
juice, and spread at once on the cake while still warm from the 
oven, about an eighth of an inch thick. Especially nice for all kinds 
of sponge cake, and other light and dry cakes, such as snow cake, etc. 

Transparent Icing. — Boil a pound granulated sugar with a half 
pint water until thick as mucilage : then rub with a wooden spoon 
against sides of pan until white and milky. Stir in one teaspoon 
vanilla extract and pour while hot over the top of the cake, com- 
pletely covering it. 

Tutti Fruttl Icing. — Boil a pint granulated sugar with a half 
cup water until it "threads." Pour this into the well-frothed whites 
of two eggs and beat till cool; mix together a half pound blanched 
and chopped sweet almonds, and a quarter pound sultana or seed- 
less raisins, swelled in hot water, and the same of finely chopped 
citron, and stir into the icing. Very nice for sponge and fruit cake. 

Water Icing. — Take any quantity powdered sugar required, add 
enough cold water to form a thick paste (it will not take much); 



ICING. 421 

beat well, and if too thin so that it runs too much, add a little more 
sugar. To every pound sugar, add a level teaspoon cream tartar ; 
when this icing is prepared, spread it with a knife over the cake, and 
allow it to dry ; then ornament or decorate it with Piping Icing or 
currant jelly. This water icing may also be colored a light shade of 
pink with cochineal, or a light cream color with saffron. For a 
mauve color, add a drop of indigo blue to the pink color ; but none 
of these colors must be decided, only a simple tint. Water icing is 
used for tops of pound, sponge and jelly cakes. 

Yellow Icinff.—Take the yolk of one egg to nine heaping tea- 
spoons powdered sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Use day it is made. 



Ornamental Icing. 



Ornamental icing consists in working two or more colors of 
icing on one surface — such, for instance, as pink and white, or choco- 
late and white, either with or without the addition of crystaUizing. 
To ice a cake white and pipe or ornament it with pink pipery, or ice 
it with pink or chocolate icing and pipe it with white icing, would 
constitute ornamental icing. But there is another method called 
"inlaid," which consists of different colored icing on the same sur- 
face, not simply a different colored piping on icing. To do this take 
a cone, cut a fine point off, fill it as instructed in Artistic Piping, 
draw fine lines first straight down one inch apart, then across at 
same distance at right angles, forming squares one inch across. Fill 
these in alternately with either white or pink and white, and then 
chocolate icing or pink and chocolate, which leaves the squares in 
two colors, as they appear on a chess-board. The icing must be 
soft enough to just run smoothly ; the lines will prevent it from run- 
ning together. Any desired pattern may be worked in this manner 
by simply running a line of piping to form the design, then filling 
in as above. This may be varied by marking out any design, and 
with a small pastry brush washing it over with white of egg or gum- 
water, then covering with fine granulated sugar, either white 
or colored ; or cover it with powdered chocolate or rolled rock candy, 
either pink or white; shake off what will not stick, and the design 
will be covered with sugar; pipe around the edge of the design with 
a fine cone of Piping Icing, and it is complete. 



422 ORNAMENTAL ICING. 



Crystallization.— ^\m^\y cover the cake while the icing is wet 
with granulated sugar, white or pink. Or use pink^ or white sugar 
or rock candy crushed. To crystallize only a portion of the icing, 
and that in any particular design, first allow the icing to dry, then 
Avash the part to be crystallized with white of egg or gum-water, and 
cover with sugar ; then shake off what will not remain on. 

Artistic Piping with Diagrams. — For the benefit of those who 
Avish to excel in the art of ornamenting bride or other cakes Avith 
icing, technically called "piping," a sheet of diagrams is given which 
almost explains itself, and will require but little study by those 
haAdng a taste for artistic work, and by mastering this sheet of 
diagrams before attempting anything more elaborate, one aa^II soon 
be able to ornament a cake equal to an expert. This applies to all 
kinds of ornamenting, as it is all done in the same manner, no mat- 
ter Avhether the material used be butter, lard, or savory jelly for the 
decoration of tongues, roast chicken, hams, etc., or sweet jelly, choco- 
late or sugar for the ornamentation of all kinds of cakes. To use 
jelly for decorating or piping cakes, set in a place where it Avill get 
just warm enough to pass through the cone Avith a gentle pressure ; 
in cold weather it is Avell to also beat it with a spoon, making it -of 
uniform consistency. When ready for use fill cone AAuth it, and 
proceed as directed for piping, using cone as if- it contained icing. 

Piping Icing. — Prepare in same manner as plain icing, but 
make stiff enough to retain its shape, or at least so that it aa'IU not 
run smoothly by adding a little more sugar (a teaspoon perhaps), 
and a little extra beating. To use it, fill the meringue bag already 
described in confectionery, or have ready some paper cones, made 
by folding or rolling up a piece of paper in form of a cornet, and se- 
curing joint with a little mucilage or Avhite of eggs (see No. 1, in page 
of diagrams) ; with a sharp knife cut off point of cone so as to leave 
hole any size needed, from a pin's size to half an inch in diameter 
(see 2, for plain round Avork). If a star is wished (3), cut off point 
of cone to form an aperture equal to center of star, then cut out 
points, as shown in 22. If for a leaf, cut as shoAvn in 24. To save 
trouble of cutting cones use little brass tubes, made for the purpose, 
to be had at a cost of from ten to fifteen cents each. In using these 
cut off point of paper cone large enough to allow tube to come 
through half its length. Fill the cones three-fourths full AA'ith pre- 
pared icing, fold doAvn top securely, so the icing AAdll not force back, 
and commence the ornamentation. Have the cake ready iced, and 
mark out with a lead-pencil as lightly as possible the design on the 
cake ; then go over design with the cones of icing, as hereafter 
described, until the design is complete. It is of course necessary 
to haA'e first mastered the diagrams in order to so arrange the \'ari- 
ous ones as to form a harmonious whole and produce an artistic 
design. 




V--/0oOe >^ 





H. 










18 
OOP OOP 



9 oocxXxboooooo ^qoOQQq^ 




^^-'^'''VN 





CXAGIUiiS. 



42a 



424 ORNAMENTAL ICING. 



To practice the use of the cones, procure a perfectly smooth 
walnut board, about twelve inches square. This being dark and the 
icing Avhite the work can be easily seen, and if every thing is clean 
the sugar need not be wasted, as it can be scraped off and used for 
other purposes. 

Fill a cone with icing, take it in left hand, and place thumb of 
right hand on the folded part or top ; use thumb to press on cone 
to force out icing at point, in same manner as when using a syringe. 
Force out the icing with regular and even pressure, and draw a 
number of fine lines, as even and straight as possible, by dropping 
point of cone in left hand corner of board, and with an onward mo- 
tion, in accordance with the flow of icing, which will be little or 
much, in proportion to pressure given tube, run it straight on 
to right hand corner (4). This line can be made larger by pressing 
harder on cone. Repeat this, giving cone a zigzag motion (5) ; then 
commence light, gradually increasing pressure, to produce a line 
small at one end and large at the other (6) ; reverse by beginning 
heavy and finishing light (7). Disconnect cone from icing, by 
taking off pressure from cone, and giving a quick, sudden upward 
jerk. Do some cross stringing (8), then 9 to 17; with same cone, 
held perpendicularly, (pushingthe icing out till drop is required size, 
then suddenly detach in manner above mentioned), drop different 
sized dots (18 to 20) ; then commencing at large end first and gradu- 
ally drawing fine thread, do No. 21. Take the star cut cone (22), 
and drop star dots, same as in 18, 19, and 20 ; with a circular or 
rotary motion, make roses (23) ; then repeat with the star cone all 
done with plain round cone. Next take the leaf cone (24), and by 
beginning at large end of leaf first, and gradually drawing to a point, 
make the leaf as long as desired (25) ; form veins in leaf by giving 
cone a wavy motion. Then put two together (26), and with star 
cone add a rose (27), then three leaves and a rose (28) ; then four, 
as in 29 ; then five, with simple plain dot in center (30). With 
plain round cone, make 31, adding 21 for top finish ; with same cone, 
make stems of 32 and 33, and with leaf cone add leaves. Do the same 
in 34, adding a ring of dots, also a rose, with star cone ; next, with 
same plain round cone, do 35, by giving cone a wavy motion ; also 
36, by giving it a sudden jerk, first to left, then to right, then straight 
down middle, as shown in 37. 

This seems a good deal on paper, but can all be done on a board 
very easily if one has the patience to go slowly at first. 

Having gone thus far, one may now form an original design bv 
making whatever combination fancy dictates, from the scrolls, lines, 
curves, etc., shown in diagrams ; it may be somewhat crude at first, 
but practice Avill make perfect. As an example, which will explain 
the whole, first make a simple combination, producing a bunch of 
grapes. With leaf cone make four leaves (38), and with plain round 



ORNAMENTAL ICING. 



425 



cone add stem ; also, with same kind of cone, only cut a little larger 
to make a larger drop, add grapes by making a succession of dots 
gradually making higher in the middle (39) ; then as a finish, with 
plain small cone add the scroll shown running over the grapes. An- 
other illustration : To make a large leaf, in imitation of those used 
on bride's cake, first mark the outline of leaf (40), and with plain 
round cone run cross lines, as shoAvn in 8, also in 41 ; then with 
plain round cone add the edge in dots, shown in 20 and 42. For 
further illustration, see cut for top of jelly or other cake (page 
429) made up of grapes and leaves described. Heavy and 
light^ work may be done with same cone by adding pressure ; 
for instance, if using a cone with fine point, by drawing with 
a regular motion and even pressure, a line of icing is produced the 
same size as the hole though which it comes ; but if the cone is drawn 
along slower than icing comes out, a heavier line results ; to make 
a very fine line with same cone, use even pressure, but draw cone 
along very fast; bear in mind there is a limit to size, and when that 
is reached to press harder will burst the cone ; when the hmit is 
reached, if a larger flow is wanted have another cone with larger 
opening at point. This applies to all shapes, whether round, star, or 
leaf. The cone may be used same as a pen, jwessing heavy and light ; 
for example, if making a scroll, like 11, with fine round cone, when 
the bend of scroll is reached giving the cone a Httle more pressure 
causes more sugar to flow, thus producing the fullness in the curve; 
when this is done withdraw pressure and continue as before. 

Bride's Cake. — A reference to the design for bride's cake top. 
No. 1, will show that it is a combination of the scrolls, etc., given in 

the diagrams for artistic piping ; it is not 
given as a design or a work of art, but sim- 
ply to show how those scrolls, etc., can be 
connected and arranged so as to form a de- 
sign. After making this, one will be sur- 
prised to find how easy a task a second will 
be. Note that this design is made up of 36, 
20, 13, 18, 6, 8, and 21 of the diagrams ; 
also note that two leaves are of one 
pattern and two of another. When pip 
ing cake make all " ' 
pattern, whichever 




four leaves of same 
preferred. The two 
A cut for the side of 



Bride's Cake Top, No. 1 . 

are given simply to illustrate the diagrams, 
cake is given for refer- 
ence if wished to pipe 

the side. This is 17 in „..., ,„,^^,, 

the diagrams, and the bottom is finished off with simple, plain round 
dots (2 in diagrams), all of one size. The cut for bride's cake top No 




Sides for Cakea. 



426 



ORNAMENTAL ICING. 




2 is more correct as a design, and should be attempted after 
practicing on design No. 1. These designs will answer for top of 

any cake as well as bride's cake ; and for 
latter, use nothing but white icing, and 
white piping, and in the center marked ''for 
vase," insert a vase for bouquet, or spray of 
flowers. The addition of a few sugar roses 
and silver leaves, procurable at all confec- 
tioners, will add to the effect. Place the 
cake on a lace paper, on a silver or plated 
salver. The use of orange blossoms is 
not imperative in the decoration of 
Bride's Cake Top No. 2. brldc's cakc, though generally used. It 

is also admissible to use pink roses or other flowers, very spar- 
ingly, or even yellow to match with the orange blossoms, or in place 
of them ; but use none rather than too many. If the side of bride's 
cake is not piped, place a silver band round it. This can be pro- 
cured of any confectioner. 

Dessert Cahe. — This consists of either a pomid or sponge cake 
mixture baked in a high mold ; if no other is at hand use an ice- 
cream mold as represented in cut. Thoroughly clean and dry the 
mold, tlien warm and t)utter it with a brush (by warm- 
ing it the butter goes in all parts), turn it bottom up to 
drain out all excess of butter, dust Avith sifted flour, 
giving it a knock to remove any excess of flour ; place 
.it, small end down, in a tin or pasteboard box to pre- 
vent its falling over, fill it three-fourths full Avitli the 
cake mixture and bake in steady heat. Remove it 
from mold, and when cold, if to be ornamented, 
have ready some icing thin enough to just run 
smoothly but not run off. Place cake on a 
plate, and with a spoon place the icing on top 
of cake, and let it run do^vn the sides ; continue 
this mitil all parts are covered ; let it drain 

d, ,1 1 i . „ Dessert Cake, 

own a mmute or so, then place a knife under bottom 
of cake, remove to another plate, and set in warm place 
to dry. This method of icing shows up the pattern of the 
cakc nicely. To ornament the cake, simply pipe it, as before 
described, allowing pattern of cake to be the guide; where there 
is no pattern ornament it as fancied, but usuallythe pattern of cake 
will furnish the design. In an ice-cream mold there is not much 
pattern further than fluting. A cut of one baked in a pyramid ice- 
cream mold is given, together with some idea as to how to ornament 
it. Where the dots appear, substitute red and yellow gum drops, if 
desired. When the cake is piped set it on a plate or salver on lace 
paper, place a bouquet or spray of flowers on top and add a few silver 




ORNAMENTAL ICING. 



427 




leaves. It looks very pretty iced a light pink and piped in white 
but do not use chocolate icing, as it sets so soon, unless pretty well 
accustomed to it. 

Jelly Cake—lrmx off edge of cake, and give it a thin coating 
of Water Icing, have a cone of Piping Icing ready and proceed to work 
out the design given in cut. After making that, any other can be 

easily made. With cone of white icing 
or pink, if preferred, pipe on the white 
lines in cut and fill in between these 
lines with fruit jelly, using a cone filled 
with jelly ; next, with the leaf cone pipe 
on the leaves for the grapes, asde- 
I scribed in diagrams for Artistic Piping, 
No 38 ; then with plain round cone 
pipe on the grapes, as described in No. 
39, in diagrams. The edge is simple 
plain dots of white icing ; see diagram 
No. 2. The bunch of grapes may be 
n piped on with fruit jelly mstead of 

jeu^aleTop. Iciug ) chocolato icing instead of 

water icing may also be used for the top. Then pipe in icing and 
jelly as before, or ice with jelly instead of either chocolate or water 
icing. In that case, where jelly Avas used between the white lines of 
icing, use chocolate or pink icing. Or dispense with the top icing 
of either jelly, chocolate, or water icing, if wished, and simply work 
out the design as shown in the white piping and jelly. But the above 
is most artistic, 

Charlotte Rus8e.—T\i\^ maybe made of either sponge or pound- 
cake mixture, and baked in a fancy mold, but if this is not at hand 
an ordinary two-quart ice-cream mold will answer the purpose. Al- 
ter being baked and completely cooled, carefully scoop T 
out the inside, leaving the walls an inch thick, and fill 
with whipped cream orrusse filling. Ice the cake with thin \\ 
icing, either pink or white, and pipe in contrasting colors. / \ 

Thus, if iced white, it should be piped pink, and vice ( )■ 

versa. Further ornamentation can be made by a proper dis- 
tribution of pastilles, crystallized fruits, etc., and the whole 
surmounted by a small spray or bouquet of flowers. Another 
way of making is to use stale sponge or pound-cake ; first cut the base 
with a sharp knife (see figure 1 in cut), then a piece as in figure 
2, then figure 3. Then hollow out cake as above, (see dotted line in 
1 and 2) and fill with cream; then piece 3 is added and secured. 
Next take a thin piece of cake, not more than a quarter of an inch 



428 



ORNAMENTAL ICING. 




Charlotte Basse. 



in thickness, and cut out pieces 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, and set aside for 
^ future use. Then take the artist's spatula and cover the 
^.^^^ whole russe with red or some other colored jelly. This done, 
<^> place on the pieces 4, 5,6, 7 and 8, in their respective 
CIZD places — the jelly will hold them. Leave the cut part out- 
/^ ^ side, so that none of the baked parts will show, and the de- 
i I '— ' sired effect is produced. Next pipe and otherwise ornament 
the russe as heretofore directed and finish the whole by adding a spray 
or bouquet of flowers on top, or with a bouquet 
of leaves piped'on with a leaf tube. Another way 
to make the russe is to cut the base out of 
a solid piece of cake; make the hole and fill with 
cream ; lay on that a thin piece of cake. Then with 
a cone and tube pile up the cream in pyramid 
shape. Have ready six strips cut the proper 
shape, i. e., the same width at the bottom as one 
of the six sections of the base, and gradually 
tapering to the top. Place these pieces in their 
proper position, fasten them with a little icing, 
cover the whole with jelly, as in the other case, 
or leave plain. In either case pipe and otherwise 
ornament it. If preferable, place the strips to 
form piece 3, securing them with icing ; then force cream through 
the opening on top. 

Chantilly Custard.— The plates from 1 to 4, inclusive, show 
the manner of making the receptacle for the custard, which is thus 
described : First, procure a mold for sponge-cake 
or jelly, about one quart or three pints size, with a 
fancy fruit or flower top (see plate No. 1). Bake 
in this a cake of sponge or plain pound mixture, 
as preferred, and when baked and cold — it is all the 
better if kept for a day or two — cut off" the top (see figures 2 and 3), 
and ice it with thin white icing. When thoroughly dry, lightly col- 
or the diff'erent fruits or flowers with their natural colors. Do not 
lay on the colors too heavily, or the eff'ect will be spoiled. Next cut 
out center of cake (see figure 1), and fill cavity thus made_with a 
boiled custard, adding chopped almonds if liked. 



When the custard is set and cold replace the top as in 
figure 2, and pipe the outside of cake in any way liked, following the 
^f^rynm-.. J design here given, or the design for 
dessert cake, or selecting from page of 
diagrams. The light and dark balls 
at the bottom of the design given are 
intended to represent pink and yellow pastilles placed alternately 





ORNAMENTAL ICES, 



429 





(see figure 6). But a much easier, cheaper, and more effective mode 
is simply to stick on gum-drops of 
different colors. If a good, clear 
white gum-drop can be procured use 
the three colors alternately — red, 
yellow and white — and the effect is 
very nice. The beauty of such a 
piece of work amply repays any 
lady who has the time and taste, for 
the trouble of mastering the accom- 
plishment, and for the small cost 

of material. The cost of the lat- chantniy c^etard. 

ter, when compared with the price which would be charged by a 
professional caterer for a similar piece of work, is very small. 

Raised Pie. — Make dough as for Meat Pie ; roll half inch 
thick and cut out the base, (2), prick with a fork to prevent 
blistering, and lay aside on the pan ready for 
baking. Then prepare the oval bottom, (3), wash 
over with egg, and place evenly on cen- 
ter of base. Now roll out dough, half an 
inch thick, in a narrow strip, long enough 
to go all round oval bottom (measure out- 
side of oval by passing a string around it) ; 
cut straight and even, one inch wicle. 
Wet ends, which should be cut slanting to 
make fit closely, and lower edge, and wrap 
this around the oval piece which lies on base, join- 
ing ends and bottom edge securely. Now fill case to within half an inch 
of top with bran, place over it 
a thin cover of dough (with 
small hole in center) ; wash 
the outside (except top, which 
only serves to keep sides in 
place,and is not used) with egg, 
and bake in a moderate oven 
till brown. When cold, cut out 

top, turn out bran, and shell Raised Pie. 

is ready for filling. To make cornucopias, fold up dough the same as 
in making a paper cone, and also fill with bran. Bake separately from 
pie. Now fill shell with a meat or game filling as in Meat Pies ; place 
jeHv (cut in pieces one-half inch square) on top (6), and mold a but- 
ter lamb and place on top of it, (7). Add the chopped parsley, (8) ; 
also place the cornucopias in position. Place cut roots (4) one in each 
cornucopia (9) ; place sliced lemon on top edge and add small root 
flowers at base of cornucopias, securing them with butter. Pipe side 
of pie as illustrated, using butter instead of sugar. 






480 JAMS AND JELLIES. 



JAMS AND Ji^LLlES. 




It is as important when making jams as when canning that 
only perfect fruit be used, as if fruit has passed the ripe stage and 
begun to ferment in the slightest degree the jam will not keep well. 
The fruit should be carefully cleaned and thoroughly bruised, as 
mashing it before cooking prevents it from becoming hard. 
Cook in a porcelain-lined or granite iron -ware preserving 
kettle. Never put fruit or fruit juice in tin, either 
to let stand or to cook. Boil the fruit fifteen or 
twenty minutes and skim before adding the sugar, 
as the flavor is thus better preserved, usually al- 
lowing three-quarters of a pound sugar, granulated 
is best, to a pound of fruit — by measure a scant 
pint sugar to quart whole fruit, or pint when 
.re.enmg ett e. niashcd ; aud then boil half an hour longer 
skimming if necessary. Have a plate at hand for the skimmings, 
which should be added to vinegar barrel, as directed in Economical 
Vinegar. Use same utensils in making jams as in Canning Fruit, and 
it is also convenient to have a plate upon which to put spoon, dipper, 
etc., when not in use. If loaf sugar is used it should be dried and 
broken into small pieces before mixed with fruit. If left in large 
lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if crushed to powder 
it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. Do not 
remove lid from range, as this will be likely to make the jam burn. 
To prevent scorching while cooking, jams require almost constant 
stirring, and every house-keeper should be provided with r. small 
paddle with handle at right angles with the blade (similar to an 
apple-butter "stirrer," only smaller), to be used in making jams and 



JAMS AND JELLIES. v 431 



marmalades. Jams are usually made from the more juicy berries, 
such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc. ; marma- 
lades from the firmer fruits, such as pine-apples, peaches and apri- 
cots. Both require the closest attention, as the slightest degree of 
burning ruins the flavor. They must be boiled sufficiently, and 
have plenty of sugar to keep well. To tell when any jam or mar- 
malade is sufficiently cooked, take out some on a plate and let it 
cool. If no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and 
glistening, it is done thoroughly. Pour in small cans, jars or glasses, 
let cool, and either seal as canned fruit, or secure like jelly, by first 
pressing paper, cut to fit glasses, dipped in alcohol or brandy, down 
close on fruit, and then putting on the tin covers ; or if one has not 
covers, larger papers, brushed on the inside with white of egg, with 
the edges turned down over the outside of the glasses. Keep in a 
cool, dry, dark place. Examine every two or three weeks for the 
first two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fermentation 
the jam must be boiled over again. When jelly glasses or glass 
cans are used for either jams or jellies, as a precaution against 
l)reaking when the hot mixture is poured in, prepare the cans or 
glasses as directed in last method given on page 146 of Canning 
Fruits. It has recently been found that cotton is one of the best 
coverings for any preparation of fruit, as neither light, air nor mois- 
ture easily penetrates it. Make a covering of the cotton for the top 
of jelly and jam glasses and tie down over the tin covers or papers. 
Some housekeepers have excellent success in keeping fruit by pour- 
ing over tops of cans clarified butter or mutton tallow, a half inch 
thick, or covering to that depth with fine white sugar. This will apply 
equally as well to jellies. 



Apple Jam,. — Peel, core and cut apples in thin slices and put in 
preserving kettle with three-quarters pound Avhite sugar to every 
pound fruit ; add a few cloves, a small piece ginger and a thin rind 
of lemon (tied in piece of muslin), stir with a wooden spoon over 
({uick fire half an hour, when it will be ready to can or put into 
glasses. 

Apricot Jam. — Pare as thinly as possible (by immersion is 
best) and halve three pounds sound, ripe apricots, and take out 
stones ; place in deep dish, and strew over half their weight of finely 
sifted sugar ; let stand overnight. Then put them with syrup that 



432 JAMS AND JELLIES. 



will have oozed from them in preserving-kettle, add a few kernels 
blanched and sliced, and boil very gently half an hour, stirring con- 
stantly. Put into glasses or cans and cover closely. Or the fruit 
may be simply stewed tender, and passed through a colander, add- 
ing sugar, pint for pint; boil until clear, and put up as above. 

Blacliberry Jam. — Measure or weigh and put fresh ripe berries 
into preserving-kettle, crush to a pulp with potato mashei*"and boil 
fifteen or twenty minutes, or until about half the juice has boiled 
away, skimming often; add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound 
fruit and finish as directed. Currant and all Berry Jams made 
same way. 

Carrot Jam. — Select young carrots, wash and scrape clean, cut 
in round pieces, put over fire with water to cover and simmer until 
perfectly soft; then press through puree seive, weigh, and for every 
pound allow pound sugar, grated rind of a lemon, strained juice of 
two, and six chopped bitter almonds; put pulp over the fire with 
sugar and boil five minutes, then add other ingredients and as soon 
as these are well mixed put up in self-sealing cans. This is an imi- 
tation of Apricot Preserves, for which it is a very good substitute, 
but must be put up in thoroughly tight cans, according to directions 
for Canning Fruits, or it will not keep. 

Cherry Jam. — Stem and wash cherries and boil till soft in very 
little water ; put through colander to remove stones, then return to 
fire, sweeten to taste, boil thick as other jams and put up same. 
To make a very nice jam, take six pounds cherries weighed befoi-o 
stoning, stone and boil in their juice until nearly dry ; then add four 
pounds sugar and pint'currant juice and boil all together until it 
jellies, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour ; skim 
jam well, keep it well stirred, and a few minutes before done, crack 
some of the stones and add the kernels ; these impart a very deli- 
cious flavor. 

Currant Jam. — Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the 
hands, put in preserving-kettle and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, 
stirring often, and skimming off all scum; then add sugar in pro- 
portions given and finish and put up as directed in preface. 
The addition of one pound raisins to each gallon currant jam 
converts this into very fine French Jam. 

Damson Jam. — Stone the damsons, weigh, and to» every pound 
allow three-fourths pound sugar. Put fruit and sugar over the fire, 
keep stirring gently until sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove 
scum. Boil about an hour from the time it commences to simmer 
all over alike ; it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable 
to burn and stick to the pan. When the jam looks firm, and the 
juice appears like jelly, it is done. 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 



483 



Gooseberry e/d?m.— Stew nice ripe berries in a little water, press 
through a coarse sieve, return to the kettle and add three-fourths 
pound sugar to each pound pulped gooseberry ; boil three-quarters 
of an hour, stirring constantly ; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as 
directed in preface. Some use an equal weight of fruit and sugar. 
Ifone prefers to keep the berries whole, put the sugar into kettle 
and add water enough to melt it ; drop the fruit into the hot symp 
and cook until the svrup begins to thicken around the berries. Do 
not stir but shake the kettle gently occasionally to keep the truit 
from burning, and cook until a little jellies when cooled m a saucer. 
Put up as previously directed. Blacklerry Jam is made same way . 
To make Gooseberry Jam with Currant Juice select the rough red 
gooseberries, if possible, stem and weigh them and allow a halt pint 
currant juice and five pounds sugar to six pounds fruit; put goose- 
berries and currant juice over the fire and heat until fruit begins to 
break, then add the sugar and keep simmering until the mixture be- 
comes firm or jellies. Skim carefully, and keep stirring that it may 
not burn. 

Grape Jam— '^iem. ripe grapes and slip off skins; put pulp in 
kettle with cup water and boil until seeds separate ; strain, allow 
one pound sugar to one pint pulp, put all together in kettle with 
half the skins, boil until skins are tender, strain and put m glasses. 
Or simply stew the grapes in a little water, and press through a col- 
ander or coarse sieve, add sugar in proportion of three-quarters 
pound to a pound fruit, and finish as directed. Plum Jam made 
same way, adding a little water to plums to assist in straining. 

Green-gage Jam.— To everv pound fruit, weighed before ston- 
ing, allow three-fourths pound sugar. Halve the green-gages, take 
out stones, and put fruit in preserving kettle ; bring to a boil, then 
add sugar, and keep stirring over a gentle fire till melted ; remove 
scum as it rises, and just before jam is done add half the blanched 
kernels and boil rapidly five minutes. 

Peach Jam.— Feel the peaches thinly with a silver knife, or if 
not too ripe by immersing in hot water, remove stones and weigh, 
allowing one-third their weight of sugar. Put in preserving kettle 
with sugar strewn in, set over fire, bring gradually to a boil and boil 
gently and steadily two hours, skimming as often as scum rises and 
stirring oceasionailv— constantly toward the last to prevent burning. 
Very ripe peaches, or the soimd portion of those partly decayed may 
be used for jam. ' Some prefer rather more sugar, and stew the 
peaches until soft, then put them through a sieve or colander before 
adding sugar. 

Pie-plant Jam.— Cwi in pieces about one inch in length ; to 
pound pie-plant, add a pound sugar : cut it up in the afternoon be- 
fore it is to be cooked; scatter the sugar over it and let stand 



434 JAMS AND JELLIES. 



overnight ; in the morning drain off the syrup and boil till it thick- 
ens ; then add the pie-plant and boil fifteen minutes, or till it is done. 
Or to every pound pie-plant allow a pound sugar and rind and juice 
of half a lemon ; wipe pie-plant dry, cut in small pieces and put 
over fire with the sugar ; mince the lemon peel very fine ; add it and 
the juice to the other ingredients and keep well stirred; if very 
young, boil one hour, if old two hours. It will keep good for years. 
Omit the lemon and it is called Pie-plant Butter. For Pie-plant 
and Orange Jam, peel six oranges ; remove as much white pith as 
possible, divide them, and take out seeds ; slice the pulp in preserving 
kettle, add rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf 
sugar, which should be broken small. Peel one quart pie-plant, cut 
in thin pieces, add to the oranges, and stir all together over gentle 
fire until jam is done. Eemove all scum as it rises, put the jam into 
pots, and, when cold, cover. Should pie-plant be very old, stew it 
alone for quarter of an hour before other ingredients are added. 

Pine-apple Jam. — To one pound grated pine-apple add three- 
fourths pound sugar and boil ten minutes. 

Plum Jam. — Weigh, then halve and stone the plums, spread on 
large dishes, sprinkle sugar over in the proportion of three-fourths 
pound to pound fruit, and let stand one day. Then simmer gently 
half an hour and boil rapidly fifteen minutes. Remove scum as fast 
as it raises and stir constantly. May be flavored nicely by cracking 
a few stones and adding kernels ju^t before jam is done. The sweet 
varieties of plums do not require so much sugar. 

Quince Jam. — Boil fruit in as little water as possible until soft 
enough to break easily ; pour off all water and rub with spoon until 
entirely smooth. To each pound quince add ten ounces brown 
sugar, and boil twenty minutes, stirring often. A more elal)orate 
recipe requires seven pounds quinces, two of sour oranges and nine 
of sugar ; cut quinces into dice and boil with them in one quart water, 
one-third or less of the orange rind ; when quinces are tender add 
oranges and sugar and boil fifteen minutes. If sour oranges cannot 
be obtained use lemons. If quinces are not acid use less sugar. 
Very excellent. 

Raspherry Jam. — Use small or crushed berries, carefully re- 
jecting all decayed ones; prepare as directed, and allow two- 
thirds their weight in sugar ; crush the berries in preserving kettle 
with potato-masher or wooden spoon, and beat well and boil fifteen 
or twenty minutes, add sugar and finish as in general directions. 
Or add currants in proportion of one-third currants to two-thirds 
raspberries ; or use only the juice of currants, half pint to each quart 
mashed raspberries, and as a substitute two or three tablespoons 
currant jelly may be well beaten, thinned with a little water and 
added as the juice. Another method of making is to crush the ber- 
ries and sugar together, and let stand two or three hours before cook- 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 



435 



ing, then proceed as above. Make Strawberry Jam same way, al- 
lowing sugar in proportion of three-fourths the weight of the fruit. 



Fruit Jellies. 



Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle existing in fruits, which 
possesses the property of gelantinizing when boiled and cooled, and 
is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, 
although the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an 
erroneous idea on the subject. When made of gelatine, jellies have 
no nutrition, and are simply used to carry a palatable flavor, but the 
fruit jellies are wholesome as well as palatable. Always make in a 
porcelain or granite iron-ware kettle. Never use tin utensils either 
in preparing the juice or making the jelly. Use the best refined or 
granulated sugar, and do not have the fruit, especially currants and 
grapes, overripe. To make clear, handsome jelly the fruit must be 
quite fresh and all blemishes removed. Currants and berries must 
be made up as soon as picked, and should never be gathered imme- 
diately after a rain, as they are greatly impoverished by the moisture 
absorbed. Never on any account let them stand overnight. Nearly 
all fruit jellies may be made in same way, whether currant, plum, 
crab-apple, gooseberry, quince, apple, peach or grape, using less su- 
gar for the sweeter fruits. The first five fruits mentioned jelly very 
easily and quickly, and the others will give no trouble if directions 
are faithfully followed. Cherries will not jelly alone, and must be 
mixed with one-fourth their quantity of currants, or gelatine may be 

used with them, an ounce to a quartof 
juice. All fruit forms into jelly more readi- 
ly if not quite ripe. Have the flannels and 
cloths used for straining perfectly clean 
and white, and the strainer stand 
illustrated will be found a great conven- 
ience. The cut explains itself, and the 
stand can be made by any one at all fa- 
miliar with the use of tools. 

To extract the juice, place fruit in 
kettle with just enough water to keep 
from burning, or bruise with potato masher until enough 
juice starts for the same purpose, stir often, and let remain 




Strainer Stand. 



436 FRUIT JELLIES. 



over fire until thoroughly scalded ; or a better but rather slow- 
er method is to place it in a stone jar set in kettle of tepid 
water, boil until fruit is well softened, stirring frequently, and 
then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong coarse flan- 
nel, crash or cotton bag, wrung out of hot water, after which let it 
drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, emptying the bag 
and rinsing it off each time it is used. A three-cornered bag is best 
and there is not so much need of pressing a bag of this shape, the 
weight of the fruit in the large part causing the juice to flow freely 
at the point. Press occasionally at the top and sides if necessary, 
but the jelly will be clearer if the juice is allowed to drain through 
without squeezing. The small salt bags do nicely for straining a 
small quantity and can be kept for this purpose. If jelly is wanted 
very nice, strain the juice again through a clean cloth, then return it 
to the clean preserving kettle. The larger fruits, such as apples and 
quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed if at all defective, 
water .added to just cover them, boiled gently until tender, turned 
into bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, or overnight. 
Make not over two or three pints of jelly at a time as larger quanti- 
ties require longer boiling. As a general rule allow equal measures 
juice and sugar. Some boil juice rapidly ten minutes from the first 
moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer ; 
but a better way, which insures a clearer jelly, is to spread the sugar 
in a large dripping-pan, set in oven and stir often to prevent burn- 
ing ;' boil the juice twenty minutes, skimming carefully, add hot 
sugar, let boil five minutes and pour into the prepared jelly-glasses 
immediately, as a thin skin forms over the surface when jelly cools, 
which should not be broken as it keeps out the air, and if formed 
upon the top of glasses of jelly acts as a preservative. Do not put 
on paper dipped in alcohol or brandy till jelly is cold, as the skin 
might thus be broken. This applies to jams when put up in glasses 
or stone jars. It is always best to test jelly before pouring into 
glasses, as some fruit juices require longer boiling than others to re- 
duce to jelly. The simplest test is to take a few drops on a spoon 
and by holding it in a cool place and turning from side to side one 
can easily tell when it jellies, as it Avill jelly on the spoon and not run ; 
or drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immediately 
falls to the bottom it is done ; or if when dropped in a saucer and 
set on ice or in a cool place it does not spread, but remains rounded, it 



FEUIT JELLIES. 437 



is finished. Be careful not to have so hot a fire when boiling as to 
scorch and so ruin the jelly, and too long cooking after the sugar is 
added will make it dark and strong. Some strain through the bag 
into glasses, but this involves waste, and if skimming is carefully- 
done is not necessary. A little butter or lard, rubbed with a cloth 
on outside of glasses or cans, will enable one to pour in the boiling 
fruit or liquid, the first spoon or two slowly, without breaking the 
glass. If jelly is not very firm, let it stand in the sun covered with bits 
of window glass or pieces of mosquito netting, for a few days. Never 
attempt to make jelly in damp or cloudy weather if firmness and 
clearness are desired. When ready to put away, cover as directed for 
jams. 

If pulp is wanted for jam do not squeeze the fruit too hard, and 
it can be made up very nicely. The jelly should be placed in a dry, 
dark, cool place and examined toward the end of summer, when if 
there are any signs of fermentation, reboil. Jelly needs more at- 
tention in damp rainy seasons than in others. 

When jelly is wanted in its greatest perfection do not squeeze 
through strainer at first, simply use what will drain through of itself. 
This will make a beautifully clear jelly. The remainder of the juice 
may be squeezed through and jelly made of it as usual, but it will 
not be so nice as that made from the first drippings. 

Jelly designed for frequent use, as for making jelly cake, sand- 
wiches, serving with meats, etc., may be jDut up in stone jars,for which 
the half gallon is a nice size, but must be carefully covered again 
each time after opening. Writing paper cut to fit the tops and dip- 
ped in alcohol or brandy is best for the first covering for jars as 
well as glasses, then cover as directed in jams. 



Apple Jelly, — Quarter and core but do not pare nice tart red- 
cheeked apples, and boil until soft; then strain with very little 
pressing and after boiling up and skimming thoroughly add three- 
fourths the quantity of sugar and boil until it jellies nicely. It will 
be delicious and of a beautiful pink color. Too ripe apples will make 
it dark. Some do not add sugar until about five minutes before jelly 
is done, and if apples are perfectly sound many cook the cores. 
Green apples are often used for jelly,"and a- very good article may be 
made by boiling the parmgs of apples with the sound cores in as 
little water as possible until soft, and finish as above. Three-quarters 
of a pint sugar to a pint juice is the rule of some housekeepers, who 



438 



FRUIT JELLIES, 



also clear the jelly with whites of eggs. But if juice is properly- 
strained and skimmed this should not be necessary. A German 
method of making is to let the apples boil untouched until they 
break, then set away in the kettle, if it can be spared, otherwise in 
an earthen bowl, for three days ; then drain without pressing, add a 
pound sugar to every pint juice, and boil three-quarters of an hour. 
Fill glasses, and cover. Some economical housekeepers pare and 
core the apples and do not strain so closely but that they may be 
used for sauce or pies. If the flavor of lemon is liked boil half the 
peel of one with' every two dozen apples, but lemon juice is thought 
by some to render the jelly muddy and thick ; when used strain it in 
just before jelly is done. If the jelly is wanted light colored peel 
the apples. Apple jelly, ornamented when put into the molds with 
preserved greengages or other preserved fruit, turns out very prettily 
for dessert. Apple jelly is also made very delicious by the addition 
of orange and lemon iuice, equal parts of both, in any proportion 
liked, half and half, or one-fourth orange and lemon to three-fourths 
apple juice. 

Crab- Apple Jelly. — Wash and quarter large Siberian crabs, but 
do npt core, cover to depth of an inch or two with cold water, and 
cook to a mush ; pour into coarse cotton bag or strainer, and when 
cool enough, press or squeeze hard, to extract all juice. Wring a 
piece of fine Swiss muslin or crinoline out of water, spread over col- 
ander placed over a crock, and with a cup dip juice slowly in, al- 
lowing plenty of time to run through ; repeat this process twice, 
rinsing out the muslin frequently. Allow the strained juice of four 
lemonsto a peck of apples, and three-quarters of a pound sugar to 
each pint juice, though some use a pound sugar to pint juice. Boil 
the juice from ten to twenty minutes ; while boiling sift in the sugar 
slowly, stirring constantly, and boil five minutes longer. This is 
generally sufficient, but it is always safer to try it, and ascertain 
whether it will jelly. This makes a very clear, sparkling jelly. The 
pulp may be made into jam or marmalade. For Transcendent 
Crah- Apple Jelly, prepare the transcendent or any variety of cral)- 
apples as_ Cultivated Wild Plums, adding flavoring of almond, lemon, 
peach, pine-apple^ or vanilla to the jelly in the proportion of one 
teaspoon to two pints, or more if wished stronger, just before it is 
done. Or make without flavoring. 

Dried Apple Jelly. — Wash carefully two quarts dried apples 
and let soak in soft water to cover for half an hour ; put on to cook 
in same water, adding if needed moie to cover, and cook two or three 
hours ; strain the juice, and to every pint add three-quarters pound 
sugar and juice of two lemons ; boil till when tested it will jelly, then 
finish as directed. Some add a few raisins to apples when cooking. 

Apricot Jelly. — Take out stones from two quarts apricots, cut 
in small pieces", and lay them in preserving-kettle with a clove, well 



FRUIT JELLIES. 439 



pounded, and juice of half lemon ; cover with water, set on moderate 
fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Strain, and Avhen juice is all 
squeezed out, put it in kettle with three-quarters pint sugar to every 
pint juice ; boil till it jellies. 

BlacMerry JeU2/.—Select nice, not over-ripe berries, and pre 
pare as directed for all jellies in preface, allowing three-fourths as 
much sugar as juice, though some use pint for pint. Others prefer 
to use the berries while still red, but the jelly from fruit in so green 
a state will wholly lack the delicious flavor of that made from the 
ripe berries. 

Cherry Jelly.— Stone and stem a quantity of best cherries, and 
to every four pounds add one pound red currants ; put into preserv- 
ing-kettle, place over the fire and reduce all to a mash, stirring all 
the while with the wooden spatula. Strain by pressing through a 
hair sieve, and filtering through a jelly bag. To each pint fruit add 
three-quarters pint or a pint sugar as liked. Place again on fire and 
boil to a jelly, removing the scum, and fill glasses or jars. A very 
nice jelly, and excellent for flavoring summer drinks. 

Grariberry Jelly. — Prepare juice as in general directions, add 
one pound sugar to every pint, boil and skim, and test by dropping 
a little into cold water. When it does not mingle with the water it 
is done. The pulp may be sweetened and used for sauce. Instead 
of squeezing to obtain juice some prefer to let the cooked fruit hang 
in the jelly bag to drip overnight. Then proceed as directed for all 
jellies. 

Currant Jelly. — Do not pick from stem, but carefully remove 
all leaves and imperfect fruit, place in a stone jar and follow general 
directions, allowing for each pint juice a pint sugar. Some use a 
pound sugar to pint juice. Or weigh the fruit and to each pound 
allow half the weight of granulated or pure loaf sugar. Put a feAv 
currants in porcelain-lined kettle, and press with potato-masher, or 
anything convenient, in order to secure sufficient liquid to prevent 
burning ; then add the remainder of fruit, and boil freely twenty 
minutes, stirring occasionally, to prevent burning. Take out and 
strain carefully through the three-cornered strainer above mentioned, 
putting the liquid into either earthen or wooden vessels. When 
strained return liquid to kettle, without trouble of measuring, and 
let it boil thoroughly for a moment or so, skim well and add the 
sugar, which has been heated as directed in preface. The moment 
the sugar is entirely dissolved, the jelly should be done, and must 
be immediately dished, or placed in glasses. It will jelly upon the 
side of the cup as it is taken up, leaving no doubt as to the result. 
BlacMerry and Strawberry Jelly are made by either of above meth- 
ods, and a very finely flavored jelly is obtained by mixing red rasp- 
berry and currant juice, two parts former to one of latter. Make 



440 FRUIT JELLIES. 



Black Currant Jelly as above, using only half pound sugar to pint 
juice. Or if the currants are wished for jam or to dry take pint cur- 
rants, picked off stem, pint sugar, place in kettle on stove, scald well, 
skim out currants, strain juice and cook until it jellies. Dry cur- 
rants on plates, or make into jam, adding half pint sugar with one- 
third currants and two-thirds raspberries. When currants are 
dried put in stone jars and cover closely. 

To extract currant juice without boiling fruit, crush the fruit 
with the hands in large earthen bowl, about a quart at once. Pour 
the currants into the strainer, and when all crushed and draining, 
stir them about with the hand and squeeze the thin juice from them ; 
then take about a pint and a half of the crushed fruit at a time in a 
strong towel and squeeze ; the thick juice that comes at the very last 
it is well to put aside for currant shrub ; the first can be used with 
that already strained for the jelly. A jelly of a prettier color is ob- 
tained by mixing the white and red currants, half and hall. Some 
take the trouble to make jelly from the white and red currants sep- 
arately, then harden it in successive layers in glasses. For the pro- 
cess see directions given for making Ribbon Jelly. Another 
pretty arrangementis to melt jelly before serving, add little dissolved 
gelatine, put in mold and set in ice-box or cool place to harden. Some 
housekeepers report excellent success in making Uncooked Currant 
Jelly: To one pint currant juice from raw fruit, add a pint granu- 
lated sugar; stir the juice very slowly into the sugar until sugar is 
dissolved, then let stand twenty-four hours and it will be stiff jelly. 
Turn into glasses, cover with a thin covering and set in the sun two 
or three da3\s, then cover as directed and put away. Half a bushel 
of currants makes twenty-two and one-half pint glasses of jelly. 

Elderberry Jelly. — One quart elderberries, one pint water : boil 
together a few minutes, then press through a towel till all juice is 
extracted ; one quart crab-apples and one pint water boiled to- 
gether, and juice extracted in same way; the apples should be cut 
once or twice through before boiling ; mix juice of both together, and 
for every pint juice take one pound white sugar and boil about ten 
or fifteen minutes, till it will jelly nicely; elderberry juice will not 
jelly when taken alone, but by adding the juice of apples a beautiful 
jelly is made. 

Four-Fruit Jelly. — Take equal quantities ripe strawberries, 
raspberries, currants, and red cherries ; all should be fully ripe, and 
the cherries must be stoned, taking care to preserve the juice that 
escapes in stoning, and add it to the rest ; mix the fruit together, 
put into a linen bag, and squeeze thoroughly ; when it has ceased to 
drip, measure the juice, and to every pint allow a pound and two 
ounces best loaf sugar, in large lumps. Mix juice and sugar together ; 
put them in a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, and boil for half an 
hour, skimming frequently. Try the jelly by dipping out a spoon- 



FRUIT JELLIES. 441 



ful, and holding it in the open air ; if it hardens readily it is suflfi- 
ciently done. 

Gooseberry Jelly. — To every quart green gooseberries add a 
pint water and boil until bursting and almost a jam. Then strain 
and proceed as in general directions, adding a pound sugar to each 
pint juice. Requires longer boiling than most jellies. Juice may 
be obtained without boiling the fruit as in Currant Jelly, if preferred, 
and some let them stand twenty-four hours after cooking before 
straining, or hang in jelly bag all night. 

Grape Jelly. — Prepare fruit and rub through a sieve ; to every 
pound pulp add a pound sugar, stir well together, boil slowly twenty 
minutes, then follow general directions ; or prepare the juice, boil 
twenty minutes, and add one pound sugar to one pound juice after 
it is reduced by boiling ; then boil ten or fifteen minutes. Or crush 
the grapes over the fire and do not strain until thoroughly heated 
through. Or put on grapes just beginning to turn, boil until broken, 
place in jelly-bag, let drain without pressing and finish as in general 
directions. Just before jelly is done some add a teaspoon dissolved 
gum-arabic, or a little gelatine, but if fruit is not too ripe and the 
directions heretofore given have been carefully followed this will 
not be necessary. Some use pound sugar to each pint juice, meas- 
ured just after straining. Green grapes, about half ripened, are best 
forjellv. Wild Grape Jelly \& ra^^e same way. Some cook the 
grapes whole, but if first pulped through a sieve, the pulp maybe 
used for jam, marmalade, or be eaten while fresh for sauce at tea. 

Muscadme Jelly. —ScinQGZQ skins from muscadines, saving all 
the pulp and juice, and add to each quart a dozen or twenty of the 
skins, or enough to give a rich crimson color ; too many will make 
the jelly dark, and if none are used it will have a muddy color. If 
there is not sufficient juice to prevent scorching add a little water, 
set on brisk fire and cook twenty to thirty minutes ; take off" and 
strain through flannel jelly -bag, once only ; add pint sugar to each 
quart juice, return to fire and boil hard twenty minutes without 
stirring. Test, boiling until it will jelly, and put away in glasses. 

Peach Jelly.— Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in 
the jar with the peaches, which have been pared, stoned and sHced, 
though some prefer not to pare, and simply rub off" the down. Heat 
in a kettle of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is 
well broken. Strain, and to every pint j nice add the j nice of a lemon. 
Measure again, and to every pint juice add a pound sugar. ^ Heat 
sugar very hot, and add when the juice has boiled twenty minutes, 
and been well skimmed. Let it come to a boil and take instantly 
from the fire. Very nice for jelly cake. 

Pie-plant Jelly. — ^\Vash the stalks well but do not peel, cut in- 
to pieces an inch long, put them into a preserving-kettle with enotigh 



442 FRUIT JELLIES. 



Avater to cover, and boil to a soft pulp; strain through a jelly-bag. 
To each pint juice add pound sugar ; boil again, skimming often, 
and when it jellies on the skimmer remove from the fire and put in- 
to jars. Or after cut in pieces i:)Ut in crock with a very little sugar 
and a few spoonfuls water ; place in oven, cover and cook slowly till 
soft, strain and to each pint juice take pint sugar and finish as in 
general directions. Some flavor with extract of lemon just before it 
is done. 

Pine-apple Jelly. — Pare and grate fruit and to each pound fruit 
take pound sugar, stir till sugar is dissolved and cook and test as 
above. Strain into glasses and cover as directed. This is delicious 
molded and served as a Dessert Jelly, surrounded with sweetened 
whipped cream if liked. 

Plum Jelly. — If plums are wild (not cultivated) put in pan and 
sprinkle with soda and pour hot water over them, let stand a few 
moments, then stir once or iwice ; take out and put on with water just 
to cover, or less if plums are very juicy ; boil till soft, dip out juice 
with a china cup ; then strain the rest without squeezing. Take 
pint for jDint juice and sugar, and boil, test and finish as directed in 
preface. For Cultivated Wild Plum Jelly make as above without 
using soda. Take plums that are left after straining and press 
through a sieve and take pint for pint of sugar and pulp, boiling 
the latter half an hour, and then adding sugar, boiling ten or fifteen 
minutes more. Half a pint sugar to a pint pulp makes a good Plum 
Marmalade, and one-third pint to pint, boiling it longer, is nice 
canned and used for pies, adding milk, eggs and sugar as for squash 
pies. Plum-Apple Jelly may be made by preparing the juice of 
crab-apples and plums as above, mixing the juice in any proportion 
wished, half and half, or less of either fruit, and finish as in general 
directions. The marmalade is made in the same way as above. 
Some add a little ginger root. A bushel apples and peck of plums 
make forty pints jelly, part crab-apples and part mixed, and sixteen 
quart glass cans of mixed marmalade. In making either kind of 
jelly the fruit may be squeezed and juice strained twice through 
Swiss or crinoline and made into jelly. The pulp can not then be 
used for marmalade. For a Rich Marmalade take the crab-apples 
and plain pulp without first straining for jelly and make as in Plum 
Marmalade. 

Quince Jelly. — Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly 
smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold 
water until level with the fruit, boil until very soft but not red ; pour in 
three-cornered strainer and hang up to drain, occasionally pressing 
to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard 
enough to expel the pulp ; some let it hang overnight. To a pint 
juice allow pint sugar, and boil fifteen minutes, or until it Avill jelly : 
pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general direc- 



FRUIT JELLIES. ^^ 



tions If the quinces are pared and cored before cooking, the pulp 
can be made into marmalade by adding three-fourths pound sugar, 
and a fourth pound juicy apples to each pound _ qmnces. It 
quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of qunices with good tart 
apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and tne 
quinces may be used for preserves. 

Uasplerry Jelly.— Qook red raspberries until the juice separ- 
ates, then strain and proceed as directed in preface adding three- 
fourths as much sugar as juice. Or the juice may be obtained by 
mashing and straining, without cooking. Care must be exercised 
in selecting the berries, as if at all over-ripe the juice may nox jellv 
readily. Success is sure, however, if one part currant juice is added 
to two parts raspberry, and some use half and half. 

Straivherry Jelly.— ^iii^h. the berries and strain through jelly- 
bag without squeezing. Put juice on stove and follow general di- 
rections, adding sugar pint for pint. The berries must be firm and 
freshly gathered, as the slightest tendency to fermentation will pre- 
vent the juice becoming jelly. 

Tomato Jelb/.—Cni a peck yellow tomatoes in pieces, boil until 
soft, and strain ; put the juice on, after measuring, with a slicecl lemon 
added and boil half an hour ; add sugar pint for pint, let dissolve 
and come to boiling point, when it should be jelly. Test until prop- 
erly done, then strain into glasses. 

2*Vuit Flavors.— The^e are very easily prepared, and very con- 
venient for flavoring and coloring ices and ice-creams, dessert jel- 
lies, sherbets, drinks for the sick, creams, pudding sauces, etc., when 
fruit is out of season. Directions for preparing the juices or pulps 
of the different fruits have already been given m Ices and Ice-creams, 
and the process of making is the same for all : Mix the given quan- 
tities prepared fruit juice or pulp and sugar together, stirring until 
sugar is dissolved and a clear syrup results ; then pour into glass 
fruit iars of pint or quart size, same as used for canning, cover closelv 
with "their lids, stand in wash-boiler and finish as directed m third 
recipe for Canned Peaches, on page 153, boiling half an hour alter 
boiling point is reached. Put cans away as directed m Canning 
Fruit. If properly prepared these flavors will keep two or three 
years and when used will have all the flavor of the fresh fruit juices. 
For Orafige Flavor to each pint prepared orange juice add juice ol 
one lemon and three cups granulated sugar. Make btrawberry 
Flavor same way using prepared strawberry juice and juice of only 
half a lemon. For Raspberry Flavor take a pint prepared rasp- 
berry juice, juice of half a lemon, or half gill currantj nice, three and a 
half cups sugar. For Cherry^ Currant, Grape, Plum and Ap2ne 
Flavors use a pint prepared juice and three cups sugar. For Feach, 
Apricot, and Nectarine Flavors allow three cups sugar to each pint 
prepared pulp. 



444 DESSERT JELLIES. 



Dessert Jellies. 



Very handsome jellies for dessert are made with gelatine formed 
in fancy molds, and when fruit is added exceedingly elegant and or- 
namental dishes result. But there are a few points connected with 
the use of gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too strongly 
impressed upon housekeepers and cooks . It should always be soaked 
in cold water till thoroughly saturated or so soft that it will tear 
with the fingers. In some cases it should be soaked for not less 
than five or six hours. The liquid containing gelatine should never 
be boiled, except in cases when it cannot be avoided, such as in 
clearing a jelly with white of egg, when it is necessary to raise the 
temperature to boiling point to coagulate the albumen ; but two 
minutes' boiling is quite sufficient for that purpose. Use as little 
gelatine as possible; that is, never use more than will suffice to make 
a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. 
The prejudice common against gelatine which existed in former 
years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its qual- 
ities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly, hard, tough, 
and unpalatable, which compared very unfavorably with the deli- 
cate jellies made from calves' feet, the delicacy of which 
arose from the simple fact that the gelatine derived from 
calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jel- 
lies too strong. Persons accustomed to use gelatine will know that 
its "setting" power is very much affected by the temperature. In 
hot weather a little more gelatine than ordinary should be added. If 
jelly is not perfectly clear after straining, beat up whites of eggs and 
add, bring to a boil and skim, then strain again. Do not use lemon 
extract for flavoring jellies made with gelatine, as it imparts a milky 
appearance, and as in makingthese jellies ornament is the chief aim, 
it is desirable to have them as clear and transparent as possible. To 
mold, rinse the mold in cold water, and then fill. Jelly is some- 
times formed in a mold with a cylindrical tube in the center, and 
when turned out the space in center is filled with whipped cream. If 
wanted still more ornamental dot the whipped cream with straw- 
berries, or any kind of preserved fruits, such as cherries, grapes, slices 
of peaches, etc. Any jelly left over, whether fruit or gelatine, may 
be reheated in a custard kettle and molded again. If of two colors, 
mold as directed for Ribbon Jelly, or in any way fancied. Blanc- 



DESSERT JELLIES. 445 



manges may also be remolded in same way, and by placing with the 
jelly in mold, half and half, makes a pretty dish. To serve any des- 
sert jelly wrap a cloth wrung out of water around the mold and turn 
out. 




Apple Jelly. — Core and cut two dozen apples into quarters , 
boil with rind of a lemon until tender ; drain ofi" 
juice, strain it through jelly-bag, and to each pint add a 
half pint sugar and a half ounce gelatine, previously 
soaked and simmered gently in half pint water ; boil all 
together slowly fifteen minutes and strain into molds. 
Turn out, when cold, and serve surrounded with whipped 
cream or custard. 

Aspic Jelly. — To three pints clear stock (that made from 
knuckle of veal is good) add two ounces gelatine that has been soft- 
ened in cold water. Beat up whites and shells of two eggs and one 
yolk ; add them to the stock, and put into a saucepan, with a table- 
spoon catsup, one of vinegar, and a teaspoon each savory, thyme, 
marjoram and parsley, and a smaller quantity of mace, cloves, all- 
spice, white pepper and salt, with one wineglass wine. Set over a 
slow fire, stirring till it boils ; then cook slowly a few minutes, giv- 
ing it constant attention ; set aside to settle, strain through a coarse 
cloth or a fine sieve, and turn inio mold to harden. It should be 
perfectly clear, and may be cut into blocks or dice for garnish, or 
cut into thin slices and alternated with slices of ham or beef; or it 
may be melted and poured upon chopped chicken in a mold. There 
are many other ways in which it may be useful and ornamental. It 
is very nourishing, and generally very acceptable to sick persons, 
especially if given to them in small quantities ice-cold. Another 
Asjnc or Savory Jelly is prepared from four pounds knuckle of 
veal, one beef's foot, three or four slices ham, any poultry trimmings, 
two carrots, one onion, a bunch of savory herbs, glass of sherry, three 
quarts water, seasoning to taste of salt and whole white pepper. Put 
ham in bottom of stewpan with other ingredients on top and sim- 
mer all very gently four hours. Then strain and cool, turn into a 
clean stewpan, leaving all sediment behind, add whites of three eggs 
to clarify, boil until it becomes white, stirring constantly, then 
strain and use as above. 

Calfs-Foot Jelly. — Boil four feet cut in three pieces in thre 
quarts water f ery slowly, until reduced to one quart ; strain and se 
away until cold ; then take off fat, and put the clear jelly in a stew 
pan, add a half pound powdered sugar, juice of two lemons, and 
chopped peel of one if flavor is liked, and whites of two eggs ; boil 
ten minutes, strain and put in glasses or molds to harden. A more 



446 DESSERT JELLIES 




elaborate recipe is the following : Cut the feet across the first joint, 
and through the hoof, place in a large sauce-pan, cover with cold 
Avater, and bring quickly to the boiling point ; when water boils, re- 
move them, and wash thoroughly in cold water. When perfectly 
clean put into a porcelain-lined or granite iron-ware saucepan, add 
cold water in the proportion of three pints to two calf's feet, put 
sauce-jDan over fire, and when water boils, set aside to a cooler place, 
where it will simmer very slowly five hours ; strain through a fine 
sieve, or a coarse towel, let stand overnight to set, remove the fat 
that has risen to the top, and to make quite clean dip a towel in 
boiling water and wash the surface, which will be quite firm. Now 
place in saucepan, and melt, add juice two lemons, rinds of three 
cut into strips, one-fourth pound cut loaf-sugar, ten cloves, and one 
inch cinnamon stick. Put whites of three eggs, together 
with the shells (which must first be blanched in boiling 
water), into a bowl, beat slightly, and pour into sauce- ™.p, 
pan, continuing to use the egg-beater until the whole M 
boils, when the pan should be drawn aside where it wilt simmer 
gently for ten minutes, skimming off all scum as it rises. While 
simmering, prepare a piece of flannel by pouring through it a little 
warm water ; and when the jelly has simmered ten minutes, pour it 
through this bag into a bowl, and repeat the process of straining un- 
til it is perfectly clear, when add a half gill of sherry (or brandy, or 
brandy and sherry mixed in equal proportions), stir well, pour into 
molds, and place upon ice or in a qpol place until jelly sets and be- 
comes firm enough to turn out and serve. 

Chocolate Jelly. — Two pints cream, three ounces sugar, four 
ounces chocolate, grated ; boil all together, stirring well until fine 
and frothy, add three-fourths ounce gelatine, stir until thoroughly 
dissolved, turn into mold and let cool on ice. 

Cider Jelly. — One package of gelatine, grated rind of one lemon 
and juice of three ; add one pint cold water, and let stand one hour ; 
then add two and one-half pounds loaf sugar, three pints boiling 
water, and one pint cider, put into molds and set in a cool place. 

Coifee Jelly. — Half box Cox's gelatine soaked half an hour in 
half cup cold water (as little as possi- 
ble), one quart strong cof- 
fee, made as if for table 
and sweetened to taste ; 
add dissolved gelatine to 
the hot coffee, stir well, ,^ 

Crown Mold. Strain into a mold rinsed _ _ 

using, set on with cold water just before "^''jeiirwia wiuppediJr 
ice or in a very cool place, and serve with whipped cream. This jel- 
ly is very j)retty formed in a crown mold. When turned out fill 





DESSERT JELLIES. 



447 







the space in center with Avhipped cream. Orange Jelly is delicious 
served in same way. 

Corn-starch Jelly.— SYai five tablespoons corn-starch, one cup 
sugar, and pinch of salt with cold water, and add one teaspoon lemon 
or vanilla extract for flavoring ; stir the mixture into one quart boil- 
ing water and boil five minutes, stirring all the while ; pour nito cups 
previously dipped in cold water. This quantity will fill six or seven 
cups. If ^vished richer, milk may be used instead of water. Good 
for invalids. 

Easter Jell>/.— Color calf's-foot jelly a bright yellow by steep- 
ing a small quantity of American saffron in the water. Pare lemons 
in long strips about the width of a straw, boil in water until tender, 
throw them into a rich syrup, and boil until clear. Make a blanc- 
mange of cream, color one-third pink with poke-berry syrup, one- 
third green with spinach, and leave the other wdiite. Pour out eggs 
from a hole a half inch in diameter in the large end. Wash and 
drain the shells carefully, set them in a basin of salt to fill, pour 
in the blanc-mange slowly through a funnel, and - —- 

place the dish in a refrigerator for several hours. 

When ready to serve, select a round, shallow dish 

about as large as a hen's nest, form jelly in it as a Easter jeiiy. 

lining, remove the egg-shells carefully from the blanc-mange and 
fill the nest with them ; scatter the strips of lemon peel around it 
like straws, and around the edges place pieces cf the green blanc- 
mange cut out from a small sheet of it, cooled in a dish as in Italian 
Jelly. 

Frtiit Jelly. — Soak abox of gelatine one hour in pint cold water ; 
when well soaked pour on a pint boiling Avater ; then put in a quart 
. of any kind of fruit, strawberries, raspberries or cherries are nice ; 
add half cup sugar and one spoonful lemon juice ; pour into a mold, 
and when cold eat with cream and sugar or whipped cream. It is 
delicious. 

Lemon Jelly.— "^^^iree good-sized lemons, sliced, half a pound 
white sugar, two 'ounces isinglass or gelatine, dissolved in two quarts 
cold water, a stick of cinnamon, and a little grated nutmeg. BeJit 
whites of three or four eggs, and when the gelatine is dissolved stir 
them well wdth the other ingredients; boil five minutes, strain 
through a flannel jelly-bag into molds and set on ice ; or the eggs, 
cinnamon and nutmeg may be omitted. Or soak half a box gela- 

A^ A ' * A • A ^^^^^ °^^® ■'^°^^^' "^ ^^^^ Avater ; add nearly a 

^m^^m^m pint boiling water, one and a half cups su- 

^^^BWIIW^^^^ gar, a little salt, and the grated rind and 

^^ — -^^^. juice of three lemons ; set on the stove till 

Jelly In Glasses. " It bolls, thcii stralu It luto glasscs, and 

when cold serve Avith whipped cream heaped on top. For Lemon 



448 DESSERT JELLIES. 



Snow Jelly dissolve a box gelatine in nearly a quart boiling water, 
add the juice of five lemons and enough sugar to sweeten to taste ; 
strain and set aside until nearly cool. Beat whites of five eggs and 
whip into the jelly ; turn into a mold and let stand until cool. After 
it becomes solid, turn out and decorate with pieces of red jelly. 

Orange Jelly. — Two quarts water, four ounces gelatine, nine 
oranges and three lemons, a pound sugar, whites of three eggs ; soak 
gelatine in pint of water, boil the three pints water and sugar to- 
gether, skim well, add dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, 
and beaten whites ; let come to a boil, skim carefully, boil until it 
jellies, and pour into mold. The eggs may be omitted, when the 
jelly must be strained. The grated rind of one orange put in with 
the juice gives a fine flavor, or some of the sugar may be rubbed on 
the rinds. A very attractive way of serving is to keep the orange 
rinds whole by removing juice and pulp with the handle of a tea- 
tiY^{\^^A/A spoon from a small opening in one end, drain 

im \\Wy\\ and wipe them dry. Use the juice for the 
^vfffil^'^lK l^^^Yi I'l^cle as above without the eggs, and 
^^fWr^^m^ly\ carefully strained ; then color one-half of it 
ft^^J OL'^Q'l^^^^^ pink with a few drops cochineal coloring, 
S^^^^^^il^^^y let stand until nearly cold, and fill the rinds 
^^^ ^H^^ ^^ Avith alternate stripes of the pink and 
^"^^^^^y^^Z^ white jellies. When perfectly cold cut in- 

^^ 0':^^!Z ^ .j^ to quarters and pile tastefully on a dish 
Oranges Pilled wiih Jelly. wlth tufts of grccu Icavcs intcrsperscd. Calf's 
Foot, or any variety of jelly, or different blanc-manges, may be used 
at choice to fill the rinds ; the colors, however, should contrast as 
much as possible. For Mock Oranges, prepare as above (without 
eggs) but do not color the jelly with which they are to be filled, and 
when cold carefully cut in halves. Should be prepared the day be- 
fore wanted. Serve as real fruit piled in glass dish with green leaves 
around. Another elegant dish is made by preserving the sections 
of two oranges whole, taking care not to break the thin inner skin 
surrounding them. Pour half the jelly in mold and let harden on 
ice, keeping remainder hot by standing in hot water. Then arrange 
the prepared sections of orange in a circle on jelly in mold, around the 
edge, then add just enough jelly to cover the orange sections, let it 
harden, put in remainder and set away to cool. If all of last half 
of jelly is poured over the sections they Avill rise to the top. When 
making in a hurry, instead of molding sections in jelly keep to gar- 
nish the dish. 

Peach Jelly. — Add to the juice from a can of peaches a cup 
granulated sugar and boil until clear, skimming carefully ; when no 
more scum rises, put in the peaches and let boil up once ; then care- 
fully take them out without breaking, and pour the hot syrup over 
a box gelatine that has soaked an hour in a cup cold water ; add 



DESSERT JELLIES. 449 



juice of a lemon, cup each granulated sugar and boiling water and put 
all over the fire, stirring constantly until the gelatine is entirely dis- 
solved ; strain while hot ; put the peaches in a mold, pour the jelly 
over, and set in a cold place for several hours before wanted. 

Pie-plant Jelly. — Peel enough pie-plant to fill a quart mold, cut 
in half-inch lengths, and stew gently to a pulp with an equal weight 
of sugar ; dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a gill of water over the 
fire ; add it to the pie-plant when tender, and let it boil up ; then 
pour in a mold wet with cold water, and let cool. Serve with whipped 
cream or powdered sugar. 

Pig''s Foot Jelly. — Take the liquor in which fresh pig's feet 
have been boiled, strain through a flannel bag and set away to cool 
until next day ; then remove all grease from the top, return to the 
fire and add to each quart of jelly one-half pound white sugar, juice 
of two lemons or two dessertspoons lemon extract, a little cinna- 
mon bark and the whites of two eggs (the latter to clarify it) ; boil 
all together ten or fifteen minutes and strain again into glasses, bowls, 
cups or molds of any shape. Let cool, after which cover closely and 
set in a cool place ; it will keep a long time, is delicious eaten with 
cake, either with or without cream, according to taste, and is very 
strengthening and refreshing for invalids. 

Pine-apple Jelly. — Take a small can pine-apple, a cup and a 
half sugar, package of gelatine, one lemon, white of an egg, and a 
quart water. Soak the gelatine in half a pint cold water for two 
hours and a half. Cut pine-apple into small pieces and put it with 
juice and remainder of water into a saucepan to simmer for ten 
minutes ; beat white of egg well, and put it into a stewpan with the 
soaked gelatine, the sugar, and juice of lemon. At the end of ten 
minutes strain the pine-apple mixture into the stewpan. Heat slowly 
to boiling point, then set back where it will keep hot for twenty 
minutes without boiling. Strain and put aAvay in molds to harden. 
It will take five or six hours for the liquid to become perfectly set. 

Rihhon Jelly. — Color half the desired quantity of lemon or any 
light jelly with a few drops of cochineal coloring ; pour in wet mold 
a little of the light jelly, and when set a layer of equal thickness of 
the red, and so alternate until mold is full, waiting until each layer 
has hardened before adding another, and keeping the jelly warm in 
hot water until all is used. 

Tapioca Jelly. — One cup tapioca, three cups cold water, juice 
of one lemon and a pinch of the grated peel ; sweeten to taste ; soak 
the tapioca in water four hours ; set in a saucepan boil- 
ing water ; pour more lukewarm water over the tapioca, 
if it has absorbed too much of the liquid, and heat, stir- 
ring frequently. If too thick after it begins to clear, 
put in very little boiling water. When quite clear, put in the sugar 




450 DESSERT JELLIES. 



and lemon. Pour into molds. Eat cold with sweetened cream 
flavored to taste. For a nice jelly with fruit juice put a quarter of a 
pound tapioca over a gentle fire in sufficient water to reach two inches 
above it ; use custard kettle in order that it may cook very slowly 
without danger of burning ; it must be stirred thoroughly about every 
five minutes if an ordinary saucepan is used ; if the water cooks 
away add half a cup cold water at a time, using only sufficient to keep 
tapioca moist enough to prevent burning ; when only very small 
white particles are visible in the center of the grains of tapioca, in- 
stead of adding more water stir in a pint of any fruit juice, or the 
syrup from canned or preserved fruit, and let it be slowly absorbed 
by the tapioca. Unless the fruit juice is quite sweet enough, sugar 
may be added, to make the tapioca palatable ; when it has absorbed 
the fruit, turn it out into a plain mold or bowl, and let stand until 
perfectly cold before using. Milk and powdered sugar may be served 
with it ; or it may be iced and ^erved alone. 

Whijyjped Jelly. — This is a very pretty dessert dish and easily 
prepared. When any gelatine jelly is set a little, put in bowl and 
whip with egg-whisk until full of air-bubbles. Fill the mold, and put 
on ice. The light frothy appearance is very pleasing, and the ad- 
dition of preserved fruits, well stirred in, about two cups to a quart 
jelly, forms a handsome dish. 

Jelly with Fruit. — Fresh fruits arc often molded "CVith gelatine 
jellies for dessert and present a very handsome appearance, the 
fruit being arranged around sides of mold, or placed in center, or in 
any manner fancied. The cut given shows «^S^^^^^^^*. 

jelly molded with cherries. liave ready jfaJ^IlS^^^wH--.^ 
a pint and half jelly which must be very ^^ ffififflflWMml'^ ^ 
clear and very sweet, the raw fruit requir- ^#^^p^^^=^==== h — __ -,,ja^ ^f#" 
ing additional sugar. Select nice, per- Jeiiy Molded mth chemea. 

feet fruit and pick off stalks. Begin by putting a little jelly at bot- 
tom of mold, placed in pan of ice in lumps ; let stand until hard 
before putting in fruit, keeping remainder of jelly hot by placing in 
kettle of hot water. When the jelly is hard arrange the fruit around 
sides of mold, bearing in mind that it will be reversed when turned 
out. Then add a little more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and 
when that has hardened add another row of fruit and jelly in same 
way, and so on until mold is fulL Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, 
cherries and currants are put in raw, but peaches, apricots, plums, 
apples, etc., are better for being first boiled in a little clear syrup. 
In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a ver}'- pretty jelly 
^^ may be made with preserved fruits. When 

served garnish with the same fruit as laid ,^^^i^ 
in the jelly ; for instance an open jelly with 
Open Mold. strawbcrries may havc a little of the' same strawberri«. 
fruit filled in the center as illustrated. This is also a delicious way 




DESSERT JELLIES. 451 



of serving ice-cream, as the open mold can be filled Avith Straw- 
berry Ice-cream, or any ice-cream, placed in the cave and then 
quickly turned out and the center filled with the berries. 

A stem of fresh grapes apparently suspended in a deep mold of 
transparent jelly is also a beautiful ornament for the table. To 
secure this effect, place the grapes stem downward in mold, and to 
keep in position while pouring in jelly attach two threads as near 
top of stem as possible, bring around the mold and tie, having 
bunch exactly in center. Have jelly quite cold but not hardened, 
pour it in around grapes, filling up to top of mold and set away to 
cooL_ Before turning out of mold, clip the threads as closely as 
possible, and by using a sharp-pointed pair of scissors they may be 
clipped quite close to the stem. Or if jelly is cold enough the threads 
may be carefully removed when they are reached in pouring in, then 
fill to top. Italian Jelly is also ver}'- ornamental, and is made by 
half filling a mold with jelly and when hard arranging round sides 
of mold a circle of little cakes of blanc-mange, which must have 
been cooled in a sheet of the desired thickness and cut out for this 
purpose. Finish as directed above. 

JcUy Sandwiches. — These are very nice for children's parties, and 
arean attractive addition to any table. The Accommodating Cake 
recipe, in which neither butter nor milk is used, is excellent for 
sandwiches : Beat six eggs very light, add a cup and a half sugar 
and beat again ; then lightly stir in a cup and a half sifted flour. A 
teaspoon baking powder in the flour, and a tablespoon vinegar may 
be used, but neither are essential. Bake in deep round cans (the 
ordinary baking powder cans are a nice size for this purpose), well 
buttered, filling only a little more than half full to allow for rising. 
When dpne_ and cold turn out and cut in shoes as thick as liked, 
spread with jelly, place two together, and neat little round sandwiches 
are made. The cake is also excellent baked in a loaf, and any loaf 
cake may be baked in the cans, the round slices being a novelty on 
any table. Chocolate Cake baked as above and made into sand- 
wiches is a favorite with the little folks. The following is one of the 
best recipes: Put a half cup sweet milk, yolk of one egg and two 
and a half tablespoons grated chocolate over the fire until it comes 
to boiling point, then take off, let cool, sweeten to taste and beat it 
into the follo\Adng cake mixture : One cup granulated sugar, half 
cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon baking powder, half cup sweet milk, 
two cups flour. This may also be baked in a loaf or makes a very 
elegant layer cake spread with white icing flavored with vanilla.. Or 
make after this recipe : One cup each cream and sugar, two eggs, two 
teaspoons baking powder and flour to make good cake batter. Bake 
in the cans, slice and spread with jelly ; or, if variety is wanted, bake 
in gem or patty pans and ice with the Chocolate Caramel Icing 
given in Icing. 



452 DESSERT JELLIES. 



French Sandwiches are also favorites with children. Make hat- 
ter after any sponge cake or other recipe preferred and bake in small 
round cans, so that the slices will be about the size of silver half 
dollars. Or drop on buttered paper, a teaspoon at a time, stirring 
a little stiff' for this, and when baked trim off" edges to size desired as 
above with tin cutter or any small round tin box lido Spread with 
jelly, put together and ice the tops. For a nice variety use diflferent 
jellies and icings ; ice those spread with red currant jelly with choc- 
olate icing, those with peach jelly with any white icing flavored with 
aim on i, and the icing for the raspberry sandwiches should be col- 
ored pink with a few drops cochineal coloring or cranberry juice, 
and may also be flavored with almond. The easiest way to ice these 
sandwiches is to take each half on a skewer or fork and dip it in the 
icing, of which there must be quite a quantity so as to give the right 
depth ; stand the other end of skewer in a box of sand, salt or su- 
gar until icing is dry ; then put together with the jelly as above. For 
Cream Sanchoiches cream a pound each butter and sugar ; froth 
whites of twelve eggs, stir in the yolks and beat all smoothly to- 
gether. Mix three-fourths pound corn-starch with fourth pound 
flour, sift twice and add to above with teaspoon vanilla ; beat till 
light and fine, bake in can as above, slice and put together with 
whipped cream, Boiled Icing or French Icing. Or bake in patty 
pans and ice tops. Nice with ice-cream. 

Victoria Sandwiches are also nice : Take four eggs, and half 
pound each sugar, butter and flour with a quarter saltspoon salt ; 
beat the butter to a cream, dredge in flour and sugar, stir well to- 
gether, and add the eggs, well beaten. Beat all together about ten 
minutes, butter a long shallow tin, pour in batter, and bake in mod- 
erate oven tAventy minutes. Let cool, spread one half cake with a 
layer of any nice jelly or jam, place over it the other half, press the 
pieces slightly together, and then cut in long finger-pieces and pile 
in cross bars on a glass dish. 



MEATS. 453 



MEATS 



Every practical housekeeper should spare no pains to perfect 
herself in this, one of the most important (by many considered the 
most important,) departments of cooking. Complete directions for 
buying and curing meats will be found under the heads of Market- 
ing and Curing Meats, so that here only instructions for cooking are 
given. If cooked when first killed, meat will be found tender; if 
kept a little time the muscles stiffen and it will be tough, but if left 
a longer time the muscles relax and the meat becomes more tender 
than at first. Young meat of all kinds should be cooked very 
thoroughly to be wholesome. Beef is always "hung," as it is termed, 
at least a week in all first-class markets before cut up, in the re- 
frigerator in summer, and is kept sometimes two weeks in cold 
winter weather. The leg and haunch of mutton is also preferred 
by many after it has been hung three days or longer, but all other 
meats, save game, should be cooked as soon after being killed as 
possible. If necessary to keep meat several days in summer, wash 
over with vinegar, cover lightly with bran and hang in a high room 
or passage where there is a constant current of air. While hanging, 
change the position of the meat occasionally to distribute the juices 
evenly. Should there be any signs of a change before it is possible 
to use it, rubbing the meat over lightly with salt will preserve it a 
day or two longer. Meat is more likely to spoil in rainy 
weather than dry and should be cared for accordingly. Beef suet 
may be kept a long time in a cool place without freezing, or by 
burying it deep in the flour barrel so as to entirely exclude the air. 
To restore tainted meat, wash in water in which a little borax has 
been dissolved, cutting away all discolored portions. 



454 MEATS. 

The best manner of cooking tough meat is to boil it very slowly 
until tender, letting the water all boil away, then brown in kettle or 
oven. Tough steaks, etc., are improved by laying two hours on a 
dish containing three or four tablespoons each vinegar and salad 
oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes. 
The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extract- 
ing their juices. Some simply soak in vinegar and water, allowing 
three-fourths pint vinegar to three quarts water for a ten-pound 
piece, and let lie in this six hours, or longer if a larger piece. To 
thaw frozen meat, place in a warm room overnight, or lay it for a 
few hours in cold water — the latter plan being best. The ice which 
forms on the surface as it thaws is easily removed. If cooked be- 
fore it is entirely thawed, it will be tough. Meat once frozen should 
not be allowed to thaw until just before cooking. 

When ordering a rolled roast have the butcher send home the 
bones to be used in making soup, stock, gravies, etc. Chop or break 
them in small pieces and boil with onion, celery, turnip, carrot and 
parsley or any one or two of these. American housekeepers have 
yet much to learn from the French^'cook who throws nothing away. 
Instead of going to the butcher for meat out of which to make stock 
he utilizes bones as above, or employs the trimmings of joints for 
this purpose, and converts the skimmings from the soup pot or 
drippings from roast or boiled meats into uses for which butter and 
lard are pressed into service by most cooks. For directions as to 
the care and preparation of drippings etc., see recipe for Clarified 
Drippings. 

Most people also have the idea that a finely flavored dish must 
cost a great deal ; this is a mistake, for if one has untainted meat, 
or sound vegetables, or even Indian meal, to begin with, it can be 
made delicious with proper seasoning. One reason why French 
cooking is much nicer than any other is that it is seasoned with a 
great variety of herbs and spices ; these cost very little, and if a few 
cents' worth were bought at a time one would soon have a good as- 
sortment. The mixed spices and herbs, now to be had in all large 
cities, are very nice for seasoning meats, gravies, etc., and save the 
trouble of preparing. Recipes for their preparation are given, how- 
ever, for those who prefer to mix them at home. If all the season- 
ings — spices, herbs, etc., — mentioned in recipes are not to be had, 
make the best use of those at hand by combining them judiciously. 



MEATS. 455 



But no matter how nicely cooked and seasoned, meat is often utterly 
spoiled m serving. It should always be neatly dished on hot plat- 
ter and sent to table with very hot plates, heated in warming oven or 
m a pan over hot water. Especial attention to this point is neces- 
sary when serving mutton, as nothing is more unpleasant than a 
showing of cold mutton fat on a still colder plate. For very full 
directions for garnishing meats see Garnishes, though suggestions 
will be found with nearly every recipe. If one has not the articles 
recommended, others may be substituted, according to the fancy of 
the cook and the meat may of course be served without anv garnish 
yet Its attractiveness adds much to the enjoyment of any dish. 

Glazing adds greatly to the appearance of meat and full direc- 
tions will be found under Glaze, in Gravies. Braising is a favorite 
method of cooking meats in France and Germany and several rec- 
ipes are given. Complete general directions for the more common 
methods employed follow under appropriate heads. Very complete 
instructions for Carving Meats will also be found imder that head 
later on a careful study of which, with the manv illustrations given, 
wiU enable anyone to become an accomplished carver. 



Boiled MmU.—^^iYvag is the most economical way of cooking 
mg horn tiie fact that fat melts less quickly than in broiling or roast- 

aSorbed bvTp''r^.''^^^/ P.°^ 'f 'Y^f, e^aporation,whik the water 
absorbed by the meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without 
detracting from its quality; the liquor in which it is boiled or 

^iTbi^t.'''^^''^^^^^^^'''^^^ ^"^^ gravies and should always be 
E? l^^,^^^ pm^ose. Every economical housekeeper will provide 
herself with a stock-pot, which should be kept in a cool place and 
al remains of soups gravies, etc., emptied therein, save hat from 
mutton or fish, which must be kept separate. Inattention to the 
temperature of the water and too early application of salt causes great 
waste in boihng meats. To make fresh meat rich and nutritions It 
Bkimntd'l fr^^ '^ akettleof5.z7.'.^water(pure soft water is best 

it ^^inl-l! ^^1 T? ^' '\^'fr' ^^^""^^ ^g'-^i^' ^"^1 placed where 
It will boiU^^2^,Z7/ but constantly. There should be enough water 

kettl'e shn^.?.l?'/'^^' ^'"* ^f *" ^f * ^^^^^ thoroughly cooked. The 
^defnrl'l^^ ?^^V^^ meat will not touch the 

rni' .ifTiP^^'f ^P^^^^ "' *^^ ^«*t«^ to prevent scorching. 
Caie must be taken to remove all scum at the fiJst boiling and as 

iilZt'''^^:'''f\^^^^^^ «"^ '^P--' the appefCe of 

the meat. The meat should be occasionally turned and kept well 



456 MEATS. 

under the water, and fresh boiling water supplied if it evaporates too 
much in boiling, Plunging in hot water hardens the fibrine on the 
outside, encasing and retaining the rich juices — and the whole theory 
of correct cooking, in a nut-shell, is to retain as much as possible of 
the nutriment of food. No salt should be added until about half an 
hour before the meat is done, as it extracts the juices of the meat if 
added too soon ; do not fail to remove the scum that rises after salt- 
ing. Boil gently, as rapid boiling hardens the fibrine and renders 
the meat hard, tasteless, and scarcely more nutritious than leather, 
without really hastening the process of cooking, every degree of heat 
beyond the boiling point being worse than wasted. There is a pithy 
saying : " The pot should only smile, not laugh." The bubbles 
should appear in one part of the surface of the water only, not all 
over it. This differs from "simmering," as in the latter there is 
merely a sizzling on the side of the pan. But the water must always 
be kept at boiling heat, or simmering, else it will soak into the meat 
and render it flat and insipid. Salt meat should pe put on in cold 
water so that it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to 
the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, the time to be 
modified, of course, by the quality of meat. A pod of red pepper in 
the water will J)revent the unpleasant odor of boiling meat from fill- 
ing the house. Never pierce meat with a fork when taking up or 
turning, as this allows the rich juices to escape ; tie a stout cord 
around the meat when put into kettle with which to lift it out. If 
meat seems tough, put a tablespoon or two of vinegar in the water 
before putting in meat. Dried and smoked meats should be soaked 
for some hours before putting into water. White meats, like mutton 
and poultry, are improved in appearance by boiling rice with them ; 
or boiling closely tied in a coarse well-floured cotton cloth is better, 
and cooked in this way the meat will be very juicy. The cloth 
must be wrung out of scalding water and dredged insicle thickly with 
flour. When the meat is wanted to slice cold it will be much im- 
proved if left to cool in the water in which it is cooked. When to 
be served hot take up as soon as done. 

To boil meat Au Court Bouillon make a Marinade by cooking 
in a saucepan one large onion and two slices each carrot and turnip 
ten minutes in two tablespoons butter ; then add four cloves, a bunch 
of sweet herbs, two or three stalks celery, half teaspoon each pepper 
and mustard, stick cinnamon and one quart cider, or pint each vine- 
gar and water. Put meat in kettle, add marinade and water to cover 
and cook till tender, adding two tablespoons salt quarter of an hour 
before it is done. This is also nice for stewed beef or fish. Any flavor- 
ing not liked can be omitted in any marinade. The meat boiled for 
soup may be made into Jellied Meat by taking from the bones, 
chopping, and seasoning well with catsups and spices, moistening 
with a bowl of the liquor in which it was Doiled (taken out for this 
before vegetables are put in) and put into molds ; when cold turn 



MEATS. 457 

out and slice. If the liquor is not thick enough to jelly, boil down 
or add a little gelatine. 

Broiled Meats. — Broiling is the most wholesome method of 
cooking meats, and is most acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is 
made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but 
some of the juices are lost by the operation ; cutting it across in 
small squares with a sharp knife on both sides, being careful not to 
cut quite through, is better than either. Tough meats are also im- 
proved by laying for two hours on a dish containing three or four 
tablespoons each of vinegar and salad oil (or butter), a little pepper, 
but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes ; the action of the oil and 
vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim o£f 
all superfluous fat, but never wash a freshly-cut steak. Never salt 
or pepper steaks or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, 
dip in melted butter. Place the steak on a hot, well-greased grid- 
iron and leave only long enough to sear one side so that the juices 
cannot escape, then turn and sear the other, and cook from five to 
twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done, turning often, almost 
continually, to keep in the juices and prevent scorching ; the time 
required for cooking depends also upon thickness of steak and kind 
of broiler used. Dish on a hot platter, season with salt and pepper 
and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter and serve at once. A 
small pair of tongs are best to turn steaks, as piercing with a fork 
frees the juices. If fat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be 
extinguished by sprinkling with 
salt, always withdrawing the 
gridiron to prevent the steak 
from acquiring a smoky flavor. 
Always have a brisk fire, 
whether cooking in a patent 
broiler directly over the fire, or 
on a gridiron over a bed of live 
coals. As the success of the 
broil depends upon the state of 

the fire, be sure that it is very hot, perfectly free from smoke and 
will last during the broiling, whether one or more steaks are to be 
cooked. If the fire is not very clear put a cover over the meat when 
using a gridiron, which will prevent its blackening or burning, and 
this is an especially good plan when the meat is thick, or when 
broiling birds or chickens, which are apt to be rare at the joints un- 
lessthis is done. A charcoal fire is of course best for broiling. 
Broiling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast 
or dinner; every other dish should be ready for table, so that this 
may have the cook's undivided attention. A steel gridiron with 
slender bars is better than the ordinary iron one, as the broad, flat 
iron bars fry and scorch the meat, imparting a disagreeable flavor. 
A light wire broiler that can be kept in the hand and turned quickly 




458 MEATS. 

is the best, if one has not a patent broiler. In using the patent 
broilers, such as the American and the later and better Dover, care 
must be used to keep all doors and lids of stove or range closed dur- 
ing the process. The dampers which shut off the draft to chimne}' 
should be thrown open before beginning, to take the flames in that 
direction. Never take lid from broiler without first removing it 
from fire, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke 
it. 

Fried Meats. — Frying, proper, is immersing in enough hot fat 
to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, 
the food is quickly crisped at the surface and does not absorb the fat. 
The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has 
not yet been named in English, but is called Sauteinrjin French and 
is popularly known as frying in this country; it is not nearly so 
nice nor healthful a method as Frying hy Immersion, though very 
generally practiced everywhere. The secret of success in immersing 
is what the French call the "surprise." The fire must be hot enough 
to sear the surface and make it impervious to fat, and at the same 
time seal up the rich juices. As soon as meat is browned by this 
sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place 
on stove, that the process may be finished more slowly. This method 
of frying renders the meat more tender, and is a nice way of cook- 
ing tough steaks. For instructions as to preparing and heating fat, . 
see Fritters. When improperly done, frying results in an unwhole- 
some and greas}^ mess, unfit for food, but with care, plenty of fat 
(which may be used again and again), and the right degree of heat, 
nothing is easier than to produce a crisp, delicious and healthful 
dish. Steaks and chops, or cutlets, are very nice either single- 
breaded or dipped in batter, as Fritters, and fried. For complete di- 
rections for breading see Croquettes. Finely sifted bread-crumbs, 
cracker dust, granula, cerealine, Graham and corn meal are all used 
for breading meats. Be sure that the fat for frying is clean and 
fresh and free from salt, or the article fried will have a bad odor. 
Half lard and half beef drippings make a good frying mixture for 
either sauteing or immersing, though lard is largely used alone, and 
for those who cannot eat articles fried in lard, drippings or Ameri- 
can cooking oil should be used. The latter is much superior to any- 
thing else for frying purposes, and the drippings from veal, lamb, 
beef and pork are better than lard, if carefully clarified according to 
directions hereafter given ; but the mutton fat should be clarified 
and put away by itself and used only for frying mutton chops, etc., 
as many persons dislike the flavor. Fried meat should be sent to 
table the moment it is done, as the smallest delay tends to make the 
meat lose its crispness and become flabby. 

Larding Meats. — This is a very nice way of preparing meat, 
game or poultry for roasting. Either fat bacon or fat salt pork may 




MEATS. 459 

be used, and is better for this purpose if cured without saltpeter, 
which reddens white meats. For larding small birds cut the bacon 
or pork into strips of same size one and a half inches long and a six- 
teenth of an inch thick; for chickens from an eighth to quarter of 
an inch thick, and for venison, beef and other meats two inches long 
and half an inch thick. These strips are called lardoons and are 
inserted in the surface of the meat with a larding needle as follows : 
With the point of larding needle make three distinct lines across 
h alf an inch ap art ; run needle into third line, at further side, and 
' "■ bring it out at the first, placing one of the lar- 

doons in it ; draw the needle through, leaving 
one-fourth inch of bacon exposed at each end ; 
proceed thus to end of row ; then make another 
line half an inch distant, stick in another row of 
lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, 
leaving the ends of the bacon all same length; make the next row 
again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lar- 
doons of the first row ortwo,proceeding in this manner until the w^hole 
surface is larded in chequered rows as shown in cut. After inserting 
the needle v/ork it around a little to enlarge the opening, and the 
lard , ons will slip through easier. In warm weather it is well to place 
the lardoons in a bosvl of ice to harden before using. Care must be 
taken not to have the strips too large for the needle or they will be 
pressed out as soon as the loose part of the needle touches the meat. 
Before Larding Birds^ hold breast over clear fire for a min- 
ute, or dip it in boiling water, then proceed as above, using a smaller 
needle than for meats. Larding needles are not expensive costing 
only from ten to thirty cents, but if one is not at hand the larding 
can be very neatly done by making incisions with a pen-knife and 
pushing the lardoons through with the fingers, pinching the meat 
up with one hand while cutting and putting the lardoons in with 
the other. When preparing a roast in haste, strips of fat salt pork 
or bacon are often tied over meat or breasts of birds, instead of 
larding, and this is called "barding." The fat from the fowl itself 
rnay be used for this purpose instead of bacon. All white-fleshed 
birds are improved by larding, as well as veal and sweetbreads. 

Molded Meat. — Chop fine a pound lean meat of any kind, and 
add to it a chopped onion, tablespoon fine bread-crumbs, teaspoon 
salt,_saltspoon white pepper, cup gravy (made by boihng the bones 
or pieces left after cutting off the lean, then straining and season- 
ing). Stir all together and let stand half an hour. Butter a deep 
bowl, pudding dish or mold, press in the mixture and cover with a 
plate. Place in a pan of water and cool in moderate oven one hour. 
Turn out carefully and serve hot with any of the following sauces : 
For Molded Mutton^ gravy with a dessertspoon of currant jelly ; 
for Beef^ gravy flavored with mushrooms or horse-radish sauce ; for 



460 MEATS. 

Veal or Fowl^ tomato sauce ; for Pork, apple auce, fresh onions or 
onion sauce. It can also be sliced cold. 

Potted Meats. — If wanted to be kept for some time, the meat 
must be good and well dressed, but if to be used within a day or 
two any odds or ends will do ; when cooked, all bone, skin and sinew 
must be removed, and the meat pounded in a mortar with clarified 
butter, cayenne, and spices to taste, until a smooth paste. Press the 
mixture into pots or jars of small size, until about twu-thirds full. 
Pour a layer of clarified melted butter, or good drippings (beet is pref- 
erable to any other), or mutton suet, upon the top of the paste to 
the depth of an eighth of an inch, for the purpose of excluding the 
air. Always wait till the meat is cold before potting and press very 
firmly into the jars, not allowing a drop of gravy to "get in, for it will 
turn the potted or preserved meat sour. Tie oilskin or oiled paper 
over the jars. The air must be excluded. Although these pastes 
are fit to eat almost immediately they will keep perfectly good for a 
year,and often a longer period. The most popular meats for potting are 
Veal, Ham, Beef, Tongue, Game and Poultry. Fish is done in the 
same way — such as Anchovies, Praions and Shrimps. Potted foods 
of this description are intended as relishes for the breakfast, lunch- 
eon and supper-table chiefly, served in slices or spread on toast or 
bread. Any cold remains of meat may be potted, and in every well- 
regulated English house potting is an'^every-day affair for the cook. 
If ham, game, tongue, beef, or fish is served one day, it comes on 
potted next day at lunch or breakfast. This is a very good way of 
managing left-over food, instead of invariably making into hashes, 
stews, etc. Clarified Butter for potting, or any of the other pur- 
poses for which it is used, is prepared by placing the butter in a 
bowl and set in a saucepan of cold water,7or use a custard kettle), 
which should be heated slowly until butter melts and the scum 
forms ; remove from fire, skim, and return to warm again gently, 
then let stand a moment or two to settle, strain and put over the 
potted meat, or bottle for future use. When taken off" the pots as 
opened for table the butter may be used for common pie paste, bast- 
ing meats and for fish sauce. 

Roasted Meats. — Roasting proper is almost unknown in these 
days ot" stoves and ranges — baking, a much inferior process, having 
taken its place. In roasting, the joint is placed close to a brisk, open 
fire, on a spit or in a tin kitchen, turned so as to expose every part 
to the fire, and then moved back to finish in a more moderate heat. 
The roast should be basted frequently with the drippings, and, when 
half cooked, with salt and water. To roast in oven, the preparations 
are very simple. The fire must be bright and the oven hot. Trim 
off* any torn or bruised portions from the roast, which will need no 
washing if it comes from a cleanly butcher; wiping with a towel 
dampened in cold water is all that is needed ; if washing is necessary, 



MEATS. 461 

dash over quickly with cold water and wipe dry. Washing and 
soaking fresh meat draws out its juices and impairs its nutriment. 
A large piece is best for roasting, this being especially true of beef. 
If men,t has been kept a little too long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, 
and dust with a very Utile flour to absorb the moisture. Place in 
pan, on a trivet, or two or three clean bits of hard wood or bones 
laid cross-wise of pan, to keep it out of the fat. If meat is very lean, 
add a tablespoon or two of water ; if fat, the juices of the meat will 
be sufficient, and the addition of the water renders it juiceless and 
tasteless. The oven should be very hot when the meat is put in that 
the surface may be quickly seared or browned over and the juices 
confined. Keep the fire hot and bright, baste every ten or fifteen 
minutes, and when about half done season well with salt and turn 
the roast, also seasoning the turned side, always keeping the thick 
part of the meat in the hottest part of the oven. Take care that 
every part of the roast, including the fat of the tenderloin, is cooked 
so that the texture is changed. If the fire has been properly made, 
and the roast is not large, it should not require replenishing, but, if 
necessary, add a little fuel at a time, so as not to check the fire, in- 
stead of waiting until a great deal must be added to keep up the 
bright heat. Most persons like roast beef and mutton underdone, 
and less time is required to cook them than for pork and veal or 
lamb, which must be very well done. Fifteen minutes to the pound 
and fifteen minutes longer is the rule for beef and mutton, and twenty 
minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for pork, veal and 
lamb. The directions for beef apply equally well to pork, veal, mut- 
ton and lamb. Underdone meat is cooked throughout so that the 
bright red juices follow the knife of the carver ; if it is a livid purple 
it is raw, and unfit for food. When done, the roast should be a rich 
brown, and the bottom of the pan covered with a thick glaze Re- 
move the joint, and those who do not salt before or while roasting 
now sift evenly over with fine salt, and it is ready to serve. Never 
salt before cooking, as it draws out the juices. To keep the roast 
hot while making the gravy place it in a pan or on an old platter in 
the oven. To prepare gravy, pour off the fat gently, holding pan 
steadily, so as not to lose the gravy which underlies it ; put pan on 
stove, and pour into it a half cup boiling water, varying the quantity 
with the size of the roast ; soup or thin stock of any kind is better 
than Avater if at hand ; add a little salt, stir with a spoon until the 
particles adhering to sidesof pan are removed and dissolved, making 
a rich brown gravy ; if necessary add a thickening of a little flour, 
mixed smooth with water, though if a nice, juicy roast, the gravy is 
much better without. Some first stir the flour into the drippings, 
then pour in boiling water. 

In roasting all meats, success depends upon basting frequently by 
dipping the gravy from the pan over the meat with a large spoon, 
turning often so as to prevent burning, and carefully regulating heat 



462 MEATS. 

of oven. Koasts prepared with dressing require more time than those 
without. In roasting meats if necessary to add water do not put it 
in until the meat has been in the oven about half an hour, or until 
it begins to brown, and then only a very little, a half cup or so, of 
hot water. The appearance of a roast is very much improved by 
dredging with flour after each basting, commencing about half an 
hour before the meat is done. Do this with the flour after dredging 
evenly all over, first seasoning with salt. When the flour has be- 
come thoroughly browned, which will be in about ten minutes, baste 
and dredge ngain ; continue thus until done, then season with pep- 
per and the meat will be sent to table coveredwith a handsome brown 
crust. Do not baste after the last dredging, and never baste after 
dredging until the flour has become thoroughly browned. If wanted 
nicely frothed, baste with butter the last time, then dredge with 
flour. 

Although we consider the above much the better method of 
roasting meat, some prefer to omit the dredging entirely, and others 
begin to dredge with the first basting. Some good cooks first cover 
the bottom of pan rather lightly with flour, then put meat on trivet 
in pan and place in oven until the flour is browned ; sufiicient Avater 
is then added to cover bottom of pan, the oven is closed for about 
ten minutes, when the meat is basted with the liquid in pan and 
dredged with salt, pepper and flour ; this is repeated every fifteen 
minutes until roast is done. The claim is made that though the 
steam from the water and the salting of the meat both have a ten- 
dency to draw out the juices, by beginning thus early to dredge with 
flour a paste is formed over the meat which keeps in the juices and 
also enriches the roast. Whichever method is followed, be sure that 
the oven is hot when the meat is put in and the heat kept steady 
throughout. The meat-rack or trivet is a necessity no housekeeper 
should attempt to do without, and its cost is small. It keeps the 
meat from the bottom of pan and prevents scorching, or the soaking 
out of the juices when water is used. An excellent marinade for 
basting roast meats is made by chopping some fat bacon with a 
clove of garlic and sprig of parsley, adding salt, pepper, tablespoon 
vinegar, and four of oil ; beat up well, and baste the meat with it 
while roasting. The variation in roasted meats consists simply in 
the method of preparing before putting in the oven. Some are to be 
larded, some stuffed with bread dressing, and others plain, as above, 
only seasoning with pepper and salt. To prepare a Pot-roast, ivhich 
is a favorite method of cooking meats with many, place the meat, 
neatly trimmed if a thick piece, or rolled and skewered if thin, in a 
hot stewpan or round-bottomed kettle, in which there is a little fat 
or butter if needed and turn to quickly brown or sear over on all 
sides to confine the juices. Then turn in a little hot water, cover 
closely (a seasoning of herbs or spice may be added as liked), and 
simmer gently until done. The time required depends upon size 



MEATS. 



463 



and quality of roast, a four-pound piece from shoulder of beef re 
quiring about three hours. Care should be taken that the meat does 
not scorch or burn to bottom of kettle, though only just suiiicient 
water to prevent this should be kept in kettle, adding a little as it 
cooks away. Turn the meat occasionally to brown and cook all 
sides alike, and toward the last it should fry gently in its drippings. 
Observe the same rule for seasoning with salt and pepper as given 
for other roasts. The cheaper cuts of meat are usually cooked in 
this way, though some think almost any piece juicier and richer when 
properly done. Pot-roasts are sometimes larcled, when meat is very 
lean. A rich gravy may be made from drippings in kettle. 

Steamed Meats. — This is by far the nicest and most economical 
way of cooking meats ; place in steamer over hot water and cook till 
tender ; put in pan, with any herbs or spices, if wished, season with 
salt and brown in oven by basting and dredging with flour as in 
Roasted Meats. In a hot oven it will brown nicely in twenty or 
thirty minutes. 

Stewed Meats. — The inferior parts of meat are generally used 
for stews, which if properly prepared are very palatable. If made 
from fresh meat, it should be immersed in boiling water at first, and 
then placed where it will simmer slowly until done, as in Boiled 
Meats, skimming well ; when done, season, add thickening, and flavor 
to taste. Sliced potatoes and any vegetables liked are cooked in 
stews, and some first fry both meat and vegetables a few minutes, or 
until brown, before pouring over the water in which they are to be 
cooked, and which should be only just enough to cook the meat and 
leave sufficient for gravy. A simple stew of meat, well seasoned, 
with dumplings dropped in just before done, is relished by nearly 
every one, and dumplings are often added when vegetables are used. 
Thin pieces of meat may be spread with a dressing, rolled and tied, 
then stewed with any additions of flavoring, vegetables etc., preferred. 
Trimmings from roasts ana other meats, cut into pieces of same 
size, may be made into stews, and any cold meat may be thus 
utilized. Stews should cook very slowly after the boiling point is 
reached. 

Boiled Beef. — Select a good rib piece, or thick piece from the 
round or rump, as a simple cut would be too thin ; the flank, plate 
and brisket, though all good boiling pieces, are too thin to boil to 
advantage without rolling, but are very easily rolled and kept in 
place with twine or skewers. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and 
put on to boil as directed in Boiled Meats. Allow twenty minutes 
to each pound for boiling, and when just done, add seasoning of salt 
and serve with any salad preferred, or Horse-radish Sauce, made as 
follows : Take equal proportions of horse-radish and boiled apples, 
grate together with good vinegar and a little sugar and rub with a 



464 MEATS. 

wooden spoon until mixture is smooth. Garnish with tufts of 
scraped horse-radish, boiled vegetables or parsley. If meat seems 
tough add a tablespoon or two vinegar when put on to boil. For a 
Pot-au-feu put six pounds beef in pot containing four quarts water, 
set on back of stove, skim, and when nearly boiling add teaspoon 
and a half salt, half pound liver, two carrots, four turnips, one head 
celery, two onions (one of them browned), with a clove stuck in 
each, and a piece of parsnip. Skim again, and simmer four or five 
hours, adding a little cold water now and then ; skim off part of fat, 
put slices of bread in a soup-tureen, dish half the vegetables over 
them, and pour in the broth ; serve the meat separately with the 
other half of the vegetables. 

Bouilli Beef. — Procure a piece of rump weighing from twelve 
to thirteen pounds and have the butcher remove bone ; put an onion 
in cavity, rub meat all over with mixed spices and let stand two days 
to become tender. Remove the onion when put to boil. Boil slow- 
ly three or four hours, skimming carefully ; add six or eight cloves 
two blades mace and a few celery tops to water in which it is to be 
boiled, and about two hours before done put in two carrots, thinly 
sliced, an onion and some allspice and whole peppers. For the 
^ravy, thicken a pint of the meat liquor with browned flour, add a 
tew capers and a tablespoon catsup, pour over beef and serve. 

Braised Beef. — Lard six or eight pounds good, lean beef with 
salt pork. Slice and brown two onions, a half carrot and half tur- 
nip, with six slices pork. When a rich color draw vegetables to one 
side of stewpan ; dredge the beef with flour seasoned with salt and 
pepper and put in pan. Brown on all sides but do not burn ; add a 
quart boiling water, an}'' sweet herbs liked, and cook slowly four 
hours, basting every twenty minutes. Add to gravy a can of toma- 
toes and cook ten minutes, strain, pour around beef and serve. 
Braised Chicken is cooked the same, trussing as for roasting with- 
out stuffing. To prepare a Braised Brisket^ first skin and trim it ; 
then cut out bone, put in bottom of kettle and add a carrot, turnip, 
and small onion cut in small pieces, sprig of parsley, a root of parsley, 
a bay leaf, tablespoon whole cloves, two of pepper-corns, red or dried 
pepper, half cup vinegar. Place meat on this with boiling water to 
cover; set kettle where it will boil, keep covered, and when boiling 
put on back of stove, add heaping teaspoon salt and simmer three 
hours or longer. Take up and keep hot while making gravy by 
straining broth and rubbing vegetables through a sieve, put a little 
in saucepan with heaping teaspoon cold drippings and tablespoon 
flour ; stir till nicely browned, then add little over pint of the strained 
broth, half cup at a time, till a nice gravy, and season to taste ; or if 
vegetables are cooked with meat allow time for each kind to cook 




MEATS. 465 

before meat will be done. Braised Fillet of Beefi^ done after 
either of above methods, putting it in the __^^llfil!lttt^ 

oven a few minutes before serving to dry 
the larding. Garnish with cut vegetables, 

cutting into squares, diamonds, or balls or ^^_ 

other shapes with vegetable, cutter, and Braised Fuiet of Beef. 

pile in little heaps around the platter, interspersing with aspara- 
gus heads, cauliflower blossoms, celery tops or sprigs of parsley. The 
fillet maybe served whole or cut in slices ready for serving, as illus- 
trated. For a Braised Boll of Beef^ procure a piece of flank fifteen to 
eighteen inches long and six or eight inches wide. Have butcher take 
off outside skin. Season Avith salt, pepper and powdered cloves and 
allspice to taste. KoU up in tight roll, tie in shape and cook same 
J1S brisket with vegetables. Best cooked in jar with cover cemented 
on, or use great care in keeping covered. To make more elaborate a 
forcemeat can be made of one cup soaked bread, quarter cup chopped 
salt pork with seasoning of pepper, and spread over the flank, or 
sausage can be used in same way, then rolled up as before. The 
regular utensil used by the French for braising is an earthenware 
pot or pan with lid cemented down with a paste of flour and water. 
Another utensil is a kettle with a sunken lid or pan fitting tightly 
inside of kettle, and hot ashes and charcoal put in this. A gentle 
fire under the kettle cooks the meat perfectly. An ordinary iron 
kettle does very well, liowever, if kept closely covered. When the 
kettle with hot charcoal is used cover the meat with buttered paper. 

Curried Beef. — Fry two sliced onions a light brown in two 
tablespoons butter and mix in a tablespoon and a half curry powder ; 
add beef cut into inch square pieces, with a pint milk, and a quarter 
of a cocoa-nut, grated and strained through muslin with a little 
water, and simmer thirty minutes, stirring constantly to prevent 
burning. Turn into a dish, squeeze in a little lemon juice and 
send to table with a wall of mashed potato or boiled rice around it. 

Potted Beef. — Season three pounds beef with pepper and salt 
and put in a pan, with a half pound butter cut into bits over it. 
Cover closely with an air-tight cover or a paste crust and bake four 
hours and a half. When cold cut out all stringy pieces, pound the 
beef in a mortar and work to a paste with four tablespoons fresh 
butter, some of the gravy from baking pan and a seasoning of ground 
allspice and cloves, a little mace and pepper. Press into jars and 
cover with clarified butter. Some use any cold beef left over for 
potting. Potted Veal may be prepared same, omitting the cloves. 
If to be kept long the beef should first be rubbed with a pound com- 
mon salt, quarter ounce saltpetre and two ounces coarse sugar and 
let remain in brine two days before seasoning and cooking, and when 
potted it should be covered with the butter and tied down with but- 
tered paper or oil-cloth cover. For Pounded Beef, boil a shin of 



466 MEATS. 

twelve pounds of beef until it falls readily from the bone ; pick 
to pieces, mash or pound gristle and all very fine and pick out all 
hard bits. Set the liquor away and when cool take off all fat ; boil 
the liquor down to a pint and a half, then return the meat to it while 
hot, add Vv'hat salt and pepper is needed, and any spice liked ; boil 
up a few times, stirring all the while and put in mold or deep dish 
to cool. Serve cold and cut in thin slices for tea, or warm it for 
breakfast. Another excellent method is to cut the lean meat from 
a ten-pound shin of beef, break up the bone and lay it in the bot- 
tom of a soup-kettle, lay the meat on the bones, cover with cold 
water, set over the fire and slowly heat to boiling point, removing 
all scum as it rises. Meantime peel two turnips and two onions of 
medium size, scrape a carrot, and put them with the beef after broth 
is skimmed ; put in a1)out half a cup parsley or sweet herbs, if ob- 
tainable, without breaking the stems, and a level tablespoon salt ; 
cover kettle closely, and boil slowly six hours ; then take up the 
meat, fat and gristle, and free it from bone ; put into a colander 
and rub through with a potato-masher ; season highly and press it 
down firmly in a tin or earthen mold. Strain the broth in which 
the beef was boiled and save it for soup, first using enough to just 
moisten the beef in mold ; put a weight on the beef to keep it down, 
and let cool entirely before using. When quite cold turn out of 
mold, and cut in thin slices before sending to the table. Nice for 
luncheon or supper. 

Pressed Beef. — Roll and tie a piece of corned brisket of beef 
in a cloth and simmer gently in plenty of water four or five hours ; 
when done remove the string, tie the cloth at each end, put upon a 
dish with another dish over, upon which place a heavy weight, leav- 
ing it until quite cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and 
glaze it lightly, and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh pars- 
ley. Or take any fresh, lean beef and boil closely covered till it will 
fall from the bones ; use only enough water to prevent burning; 
mix and chop fine ; put it in a pan or deep dish ; skim excess of 
grease from the cooking liquor and add to each three or four pounds 
of meat a tablespoon gelatine, dissolved ; put it on a large platter or 
tin that will fit the dish, and place on this a twelve to twenty pound 
weight ; when cold it will be a solid mass from which slices may be 
cut ; v/ill keep several days, even in warm weather, if kept cool. 

Roast Beef. — The fillet or tenderloin is, of course, the choicest 
roast, but so expensive that it is served only at very elegant dinners 
or banquets ; next comes the sirloin roast, then the rib, round, rump, 
and shoulder or chuck roasts. In choosing a rib roast some prefer 
the first second and third ribs, called the fore-rib roast, while others 
order the third, fourth and fifth, which contain more meat and are 
without doubt most economical. There are twelve ribs of Avhich the 
last five are classed with chuck roasts. A two-rib roast is sufficient 



MEATS. 467 

for a half-dozen persons, and no less should be roasted for a smaller 
number, as a one-rib roast wastes and dries up greatly in cooking. 
Prepare and cook as directed in Roasted Meats, or in any, of the 
recipes that follow. When ordering a rib roast have the bones re- 
moved and the roast rolled and skewered or tied in compact form. 
When served take out wooden skewer and replace with a silver one. 
•If one has not a meat rack or trivet, the bones may be ordered sent 
home with the roast and placed under it when put in pan. Some 
prefer to cover the roast with a coarse flour and water paste, which 
should be taken off to baste and brown the meat before serving. For 
a nice Rwnp Roast iaX^e three pounds of rump, trim nicely, and cut 
off all fat. Chop all sorts of sweet herbs together, very fine, with a 
little shallot and a great deal of spice, put in saucer that has been 
rubbed with garlic, and cover with vinegar. Cut fat bacon into long 
slips, dip it into the herbs and vinegar, and let the herbs be very 
thick upon the bacon ; lard the beef regularly with these on both 
sides, if necessary, in order that it should be thoroughly flavored. 
Rub the beef over with the remainder of the herbs and spice, flour 
it, add piece of butter, size of walnut, rolled in flour, and pint water. 
Bake in oven, strain the gravy, which will scarcely require either 
thickening or browning, and serve with pickles on top. Excellent 
when cold, but should be served hot at first. The gravy may be 
boiled to a glaze if liked. For a Oerman. Roast procure a rib-piece or 
loin-roast of seven to eight pounds. Beat it thoroughly all over, 
lay it in the baking pan and baste with melted butter. Put it inside 
the well-heated oven, and baste frequently with its own fat, which 
will make it brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, the gravy 
is growing too brown, turn a glass of German cooking wine into the 
bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks away. 
The roast needs about two hours time to be done, and must be brown 
outside but inside still a little red. Season with salt and pepper. 
Squeeze a little lemon juice over it, and also turn the gravy upon it, 
after skimming off all fat. Or choose four pounds rib beef, take out 
bones, put in pan with some beef broth and cook until all broth is 
absorbed. Then take some parsley, garlic and twenty mushrooms 
chopped fine, a good piece of butter, pepper, salt, mix well and spread 
the beef Avith it, cover Avith buttered paper and bake in a quick oven 
till well cooked on all sides. For French Roast Beef, leave the 
meat two days in winter and eighteen hours in summer in a prepa- 
ration of four tablespoons sweet oil, seasoning of salt and pepper, 
two tablespoons chopped parsley, four sliced onions, two bay leaves 
and juice of half a lemon ; put half on meat and half under it ; this 
improves the meat and makes it more tender. Place the meat on 
the spit or in pan for roasting, and baste with these seasonings or 
with melted butter. The oven should be quick and as soon as a 
coating or crust forms, the fire can be slackened a little to prevent 
burning. Baste well and often, and serve underdone and juicy. 



468 MEATS. 

Some like a Bed of Vegetahles for roast beef, which is prepared by 
placing in pan some scraps of salt-pork, a tablespoon each sliced 
carrots, and turnips, teaspoon each sliced onions and pepper-corns, 
half a dozen whole cloves, half a bay leaf and a little parsley ; or use 
only the pork with a part of the vegetables, etc. Add a very little 
water, unless a great deal of pork is used. When done, pour away 
nearly all the drippings, leaving about two tablespoons, which rub 
through a fine sieve with the vegetables, using a potato-masher, and 
return pulp to pan, or put in saucepan, add one tablespoon flour, 
stir till brown and then slowly add one pint water. A Round Boast 
of beef is nice with the bone removed and the cavity fdled with 
force-meat. A nice way to prepare a thin piece of flank or low priced 
steak, is to make a dressing of bread-crumbs as for roast turkey or 
chicken, spread over the meat, and beginning at one end roll up 
tightly, bind with twine and roast as directed. Very nice sliced off 
thin for luncheon or tea. A good Mustard Sauce to serve with roast 
beef is made by thoroughly mixing one tablespoon vinegar, two of 
dry mustard, a teaspoon each flour, salt and sugar, beaten yolks of 
two eggs, and a cup water. Dissolve two tablespoons butter on the 
fire, add to the above mixture and stir till it boils. If too stiff, add 
water or vinegar, as it must pour out like cream. Thinly-sliced 
pickles, or a teaspoon tarragon vinegar improve the sauce. 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Puddh-^g is a favorite dish in many 
families. Prepare and bake as above, and about half an hour before 
the roast is done make the pudding and turn into a hot buttered 

pan like the one in which the meat is cooking. 
^ Place a rack across it, not in it, and remove the 

roast from the pan in which it is cooking and 
vith Yorkshire Pudding, placc It ou thls, that the drippings from it may 
enrich the pudding. If one has not another pan, the meat may be 
taken up, the gravy poured off, the pudding placed in the same pan, 
the rack placed over and the meat returned. If a rack is not at hand 
skewers or strips of clean hard wood may be put aceoss the pan 
resting on the edges, to keep the meat off the pudding. Serve the 
pudding cut in squares as a garnish for the roast. The following is 
the recipe for the real old-fashioned English pudding : Put six large 
tablespoons flour with a teaspoon salt into a loowl and stir in enough 
milk from a pint and a half to make a stiff batter ; when perfectly 
smooth add remainder of milk and four well-beaten eggs ; beat all 
thoroughly for a few minutes, then turn into pan as above directed. 
An ordinary bread dressing is often baked in the pan with the roast 
and served Avith it. 

Boiled Beef. — Procure a nice flank of beef and when ready for 
cooking, pepper and salt it well and spread over thinly with a dress- 
ing, made as for turkey stuffing, then roll up and tie, winding with 




MEATS. ^^^ 



twine to keep in place and sew in a clean, floured cloth ; put a Rmall 
plate in the pot and on this put the meat, pouring ^^^^^^^ 
over sufficient boiling water to cover. Boil gently ^^^^^^^ 
six hours, or until well done, then remove the - ^^^^^^ p^ 
cloth and twine and send to table garnished with ^ KoiiedBeef. . 
parsley. Cut off in nice slices, showing alternate strips of dressmg 
and meat. If to be served cold, leave bound with twine until want- 
ed Another very nice roll is made from a flank piece as tollows : 
Remove the tough skin and prepare by cutting a thm slice from the 
thicker part and phicing it upon the thin, that the meat may be ot 
even thickness ; strew over it a tablespoon sugar and a mixture of 
salt, pepper, ground cloves, cinnamon, allspice and teaspoon sum- 
mer savory, then sprinkle with three tablespoons vinegar ; roll up 
and tie with twine. Let stand in cold place twelve hours, then cover 
vdth boiling water and simmer gently from three to four hours, it 
to be served hot, half an hour before done stir in four heaping table- 
spoons flour mixed smooth with water, season to taste, and when 
dished pour the gravv over the meat. Very nice served cold m neat- 
ly arranged slices with a garnish of parsley. Still another method 
of preprrin'^ a roll, also called Beef Cannelon, is to trim ott ail_ tat 
from one slice of the upper part of the round and give the piece 
a regular shape. Chop trimmings very fine, with a quarter pound 
boiled salt pork and a pound lean cooked ham ; add a speck cayenne, 
one teaspoon each mixed mustard and onion juice, one tablespoon 
lemon juice and three eggs. Season the beef with salt and pepper. 
spread the mixture over it, roll up and tie with twine, being caTetul 
not to draw too tightly, and cook as in first recipe for Braised Beet. 
Add more seasoning to sjrawif necessarv,but the constant dredging 
vnih. flour will thicken It sufficiently. SHde the cake turner undcT 
the beef, lift carefullv to hot dish, and remove the string, skim off 
all fat and strain the'^gravy through a fine sieve on the meat. Gar- 
nish with a border of toast or diced potatoes. 

Beef Loaf.— Three pounds round of beef chopped fine, three 
eggs beaten together, six crackers rolled fine, tablespoon salt, one 
teaspoon pepper, one tablespoon melted butter, sage to taste. Mix 
well and make like a loaf of bread; put a little water and bits of 
butter into the pan, invert a pan over it, baste occasionally, bake an 
flour and a quarter, and when cold slice very thin. Or it may be 
packed in pudding dish and turned out to serve whole, slicing at 
table. Or take two pounds of the round, rind of half a lemon, three 
sprigs parsley, teaspoon salt, quarter teaspoon pepper, quarter of a 
nutmeg, two tablespoons melted butter, one raw egg, half a teaspoon 
onion juice, and mustard if liked. Chop meat, i>arsley and lemon 
rind very fine. Add other ingredients and mix thoroughly ; shape 
into a roll, about three inches in diameter and six in length ; roll in 
buttered paper and bake thirty minutes, basting with butter and 



470 MEATS. 

water. When cooked, place on hot dish, gently unroll from paper, 
and serve with tomato or mushroom sauce poured over. 

Beef Stew. — Pieces from the flank, the shoulder or chuck meat, 
the brisket, the neck and shin of beef are usually selected for stew- 
ing, because of their cheapness and also because this is the most ac- 
ceptable way of serving the inferior parts, though a good round or 
rump piece is often used. For an ordinary stew take two pounds of 
flank or any cheap part, or if there is bone in it two and a half 
pounds will be required ; prepare also an onion, carrot, a half turnip 
and four potatoes, with three tablespoons flour, salt, pepper and a 
quart water. Cut all the fat from the meat and put the fat in a 
stewpan ; fry gently for ten or fifteen minutes ; cut the meat in 
small pieces, season well with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over it 
two tablespoons flour; cut the onion, carrot and turnip in very 
small pieces, put in pot with the fat and fry all five minutes, stirring 
well to prevent burning. Put in the meat, move it about in the pot 
until brown on all sides, then add a quart boiling water. Cover, let 
boil up once, skim, and set back where it will just bubble for two 
and a half hours. Then add the potatoes, cut in thin slices, and one 
tablespoon flour, mixed smooth with a half cup cold v/ater, pouring 
about one-third of water on flour at first, and adding the rest when 
perfectly smooth. Taste, and if stew is not seasoned enough add 
more salt and pepper. Bring to a boil again, and cook ten minutes, 
then add dumplings of raised biscuit dough without eggs or sugar, 
or made as for baking powder biscuit, cover tightly iind boil rapidly 
at least twenty minutes before uncovering. Some like a seasoning 
of ground spices, and a head of celery gives a nice flavor. Instead 
of cutting into small pieces, both meat and vegetables maybe cut in 

^ slices, or cut the latter in fancy shapes with a 

^ ""° '" ' ~' ^' -"^ vegetable cuttei, and serve with the meat in 
Tcgeubie Cutter. ceutcr of plattcr, vegetables at one end and 

dumplings at the other. A tablespoon catsup and a little vinegar 
or any sharp sauce flavors the gravy nicely. For a large stew take 
seven pounds brisket of beef and about an hour before dressing rub 
over with vinegar and salt ; put into a stewpan with suflicient stock 
or water to cover it. Skim well, and when it has simmered very 
gently one hour, put in as many carrots, turnips and onions as 
wanted and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender. 
Draw out the bones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of 
cauliflower or braised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much 
gravy as required with a little butter and flour; add spices and cat- 
sup as liked, give one boil, pour some of it over the meat, and place 
the remainder in a tureen. Serve the vegetables separately, or a 
part of them may be sliced and served as a garnish round the meat. 
A bunch of herbs, two onions and twelve cloves, with pepper and 
salt to taste, flavor a stew nicely, and force-meat balls are used for 
garnishing. Some prefer a plain stew with dumplings and no vege- 



MEATS. 471 

tables. A most excellent stew is made from a piece of the rump ; 
pound it till tender, lay in an iron kettle previously lined with slices 
of pork and onions, with a few pepper-corns, dredge it with salt, 
and baste with melted butter. Cover, set over a good heat, and 
when it has fried a nice brown, add one pint German cooking wine, 
as much more good soup stock, and stew till soft. Before serving, 
take out the meat, skim off the fat, add a tablespoon flour mixed 
smooth with broth, add gradually still more broth for the gravy, 
strain it through a sieve and turn over the previously dished meat. 
The meat can be laid for some days before in vinegar^ or in a spiced 
pickle, or be basted with either occasionally instead of lying in it. 
A stew from 7??^ of Beef Bones makes a pretty dish. The bones 
should have left on them a slight covering of meat; saw into pieces 
three inches long ; season with pepper and salt, and put in stewpan 
with one onion chopped fine, a few slices carrot and turnip and 
quarter pmt grav^y. Stew gently till the vegetables are tender and 
serve on a flat dish, within walls of mashed potatoes. 

For another nice stew, procure two pounds rump steak, and 
make deep incisions in it, but do not cut quite through; fill them 
with a mixture of bread-crumbs, a minced onion, a little cream or 
butter and pepper and salt. Roll up the steak and put it in a stew- 
pan with plenty of butter or fat ; let it stew very gently for more 
thfin two hours ; then serve with its own gravy, thickened with a 
little flour, and flavored with tomato sauce, catsup or anything liked. 
Steiued Beef with Tomatoes \b relished by many. First scald the 
tomatoes, skin and quarter and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then 
bury the meat in a stewpan with tomatoes, and add bits of butter 
rolled in flour, a little sugar, and an onion mincea fine ; cook until 
meat is done and tomatoes- dissolved to a pulp. For an Ai'ahian 
Steio take the tender part of the round of beei, lard with raisins, 
spice well with ground cloves and allspice and put over the fire with 
only a little water to prevent burning; add pepper and salt and 
plenty of raisins through the gravy or sauce. Any bits of beef 
trimmed from roasts or steaks, or cold meat left over, may be cut in- 
to slices or pieces of uniform size and made into stews. Thin pieces 
of beef may be seasoned, then rolled and tied, first spreading with a 
dressing if liked. The other ingredients composing the stew may be 
varied at pleasure, also the seasonings. When no vegetables are 
used the gravy should be thickened with a little flour and flavored 
with spices, lemon juice and grated rind, catsup, or any sharp sauce, 
and served poured over the beef. Chopped mushrooms are very nice 
in a stew and scraped or grated horse-radish is often served as a gar- 
nish. An excellent Powder for Stevjs is composed of one-fourth 
ounce each thyme and bay leaf, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and 
rosemary ; dry, pound and bottle, and use according to taste. A 
dainty little stew is called Beef Collops; for this have rump steak 
cut thin and divide into pieces about three inches long ; hack with 



472 MEATS. 

a knife and dredge with flour. Fry about three minutes in little 
butter, then put in stewpan and pour the gravy over. Add a finely 
chopped shallot or small onion, teaspoon capers, little walnut catsup, 
a piece of butter with a little flour rubbed in, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Simmer, not boil, ten minutes and serve in hot covered dish. 

Beef a la Mode. — A good cut from the round of beef, or the 
rump, is generally used for this dish, though a piece from the thic-k 
flank is sometimes chosen, and there is a shoulder cut which answers 
very well. If the round is used, take out the bone, and with a small 
sharp knife cut deep incisions nearly through the meat; into these 
put strips of tongue, suet, pork or bacon, previously rolled in pep- 
per, salt, cloves and nutmeg, or a mixture of sweet herbs and spices, 
and some dip them first in vinegar, then roll in the spices. Rub the 
remainder of the herbs, spices, etc., over the beef and tie in shape. 
Put slices of pork in the bottom of an iron stewpan with sliced on- 
ions, slices of lemon, one or two carrots and a bay leaf; lay the beef 
in and put over it a piece of bread crust as large as the hand, a half- 
pint German cooking wine and a little vinegar, and afterwards an 
equal quantity of water or broth till the meat is half covered ; cover 
the dish closely and cook very slowly till tender, turning it once or 
twice ; do not boil too fast or it will be tough and tasteless vv'hen 
done. Take out the meat, rub tlie gravy thoroughly through a sieve, 
skim off the fat, add some sour cream, return to the stewpan and 
cook ten minutes. Instead of the cream, capers or sliced cucumber 
pickles can be added to the gravy if preferred, or a handful of grated 
ginger-bread or rye bread. The meat can also be laid overnight or 
for some days in a vinegar pickle spiced with a teaspoon each ground 
cloves, mace and pepper, two teaspoons salt and four of sugar. Or 
a nice pickle is made with the followthg ingredients : One carrot, 
one while turnip, and one onion sliced, a leek, a few sprigs of pars- 
ley, and a stalk of celery if in season, half a dozen cloves, an inch 
stick cinnamon, two blades mace, one lemon sliced, one teaspoon 
salt, and a saltspoon white pepper ; put the meat in a deep dish with 
this mixture, cover with vinegar and water mixed in equal quanti- 
ties, and let stand two or three days, turning twice each day. It will 
then be in good condition to cook. Tough meat may be made very 
tender by treating it in this way ; the vinegar softens the fibres of 
the meat while the vegetables flavor it pleasantly. This pickle may 
be put away in cold weather and used again. 

Another way of preparing this excellent dish is to fill tlie open- 
ing made by removing the bone with a bread stuffing, tie in shape, 
rub the meat well with chopped sweet herbs, stick in some cloves 
and boil until tender, allowing fifteen minutes to each pound ; then 
season with pepper and salt, thicken the gravy with flour, add cup 
butter and chopped onions and cover pan again until meat is brown ; 
add a scraped carrot boiled with a little chopped parsley and some 
tomato catsup. If the gravy is too thin add a little more fllour and 



MEATS. 



473 



serve poured over the meat. Or make a force-meat by mixing to- 
gether in frying-pan over fire two tablespoons butter, one of chopped 
onion, one fevel teaspoon each ground thyme, marjoram and savory, 
teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper, and a pint broken stale 
bread moistened with cold water ; when force-meat is hot fill the 
place of bone with it, or if the meat had no bone, make a large cut 
and fill with the force-meat ; lay small pieces of clean cloth over the 
force-meat on both sides, put the meat into compact shape, and tie 
firmly, arranging the string to keep the cloth in place over the force- 
meat. Turn a small plate bottom up in a deep pot or saucepan, lay 
the meat on it, and half cover with cold water ; add an onion peeled 
and stuck with cloves, and a level tablespoon each salt and any good 
table-sauce or vinegar, or a glass of cooking-wine ; set overthe fire, 
and simmer slowly four hours ; then put the meat in a dripping-pan 
remove the string, add the gravy, dust thickly with flour, and brown 
quickly i n very hot oven. Serve on platter with a little gravy poured 
over and the rest in a bowl ; serve with a dish of hot boiled or baked 
potatoes. The meat is sometimes first browned by putting over the 
fire with slices of pork and turning to brown all sides, sprinkling in 
a tablespoon flour and turning to'brown in that also. The pot or 
skillet in which the meat is cooked should be kept closely covered. 
Sliced onions, carrots, turnips and parsnips are often cooked with it, 
first cut into dice and fried, then meat put in, well dredged 
with flour, and browned before adding water and spices 
in which it is cooked. The meat is sometimes simply 
scored and the incisions filled with a bread stuffing, and some pre- 
fer steaming or baking to boiling. Or the meat may be half roasted 
after Iving in either pickle given, then larded with mushrooms, and 
returned to oven to finish, "basting often. For a more economicpl 
dish cut three pounds from shoulder into small pieces and roll in 
flour ; put two tablespoons drippings into stewpan with one thinly 
sliced onion; when hot put in the beef and stir well ; as soon as ^ 
browned artd by degrees two quarts boiling water, (stirring all the 
time), a dozen allspice, two bay leaves, half teaspoon pepper-corns 
and salt ; cover closely and stew very gently till meat is tender, 
about three hours ; remove spice before serving. 

Fillet of Beef— K fillet, to be plainly yet Bkillfully roasted, to 
be carved in the kitchen and not sent to table whole, need not have 
all the fat removed, only cut down thin. It must be cut off the top 
side, however, which m'eans the side that had the kidney fat upon 
it, and a ribbon-like strip of the skin covering taken off the meat the 
whole length down, as otherwise it will draw up in oven. Make pan 
hot first and put into it all pieces of meat and a little of the fat that 
has been trimmed off" the fillet, and let stew and bake in pan with 
pint water and a little salt to make a glaze or gravy on the bottom 
for the fillet to be rolled in at the last. An hour after, or when the 
water is nearly all gone out of the pan, make the oven hotter and 




474 MEATS. 

put the fillet in and roast quickly. It may be done enough with the 
thickest part medium rare in a hot oven in half an hour or three- 
quarters, and is sure to be done through in an hour. Never stick a 
fork in it, but roll it over in the pan by means of a broad fork and 
epoon several times, which will make it shine with the light brown 
glaze, and cut full of juice when done. Make a Brown Gravy (see 
Gravies) in the pan and serve on the slices of meat with a mush- 
room sauce around. Some think the flavor of the fillet improved if 
soaked twelve hours in vinegar to cover with a sliced onion, bunch 
of parsley and seasoning of pepper and salt. K Larded Fillet of 
JBeefis a dish served at almost every dinner party, and an excellent 
and most satisfactor}' one if properly prepared, but it is nothing if 
not neat, uniform, precise and workman- 
like in appearance. Procure the fillet or 
tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, that is 
with the coating of suet that covers the up- ^^ 

per side, and shave that down until the Larded Fuiet of Beer, 

covering of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all over. Then raise 
the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the fillet, and lay the sheet 
of fat over on the other side without cutting off. This is to have it 
attached ready to cover the fillet again after larding. Draw point of 
a sharp knife across and across the skin inside the fat, to score it so 
that it will not draw up in cooking; trim off the thin end of the fil- 
let and round off* the thick end. Commence at the thick end with 
the_ larding and lard as directed in Larding Meats, using lardoons 
an inch and a half long and about as thick as a common pencil ; 
then cover with the sheet of fat. Heat a long and narrow baking 
pan with a tablespoon salt and cup of drippings in it; chop into 
sniall pieces a few beef or veal bones, and cover the bottom of pan 
with them ; add three slices bacon, two carrots, two onions, and one 
turnip, sliced, with a pint stock. Season with salt, bruised whole 
♦peppers, a bay leaf, a few cloves, and a blade of mace. Place the 
fillet in the pan with the larded side up and moisten M-ith four table- 
spoons vinegar. Plave the oven hot, put in fillet and roast it with 
the fat covering • it half an hour ; then take off fat, baste the fillet 
with the contents of pan, and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by 
which time the surface should be brown, and strips of larding brown 
too, without being burnt at the ends. Unless especially ordered other- 
wise, the thick part of fillet should cut slightly rare in middle, while 
the thinner portion is well done. Serve with B^rown Gravy, or mush- 
room, Hollandaise or tomato sauce, and garnish with potato balls, 
mushrooms, stuffed tomatoes, sliced vegetables in fancy shapes, or 
onions boiled and gl.ized. If served with sauce, this should bepoured 
around the fillet. The time given cooks a fillet of any size, the shape 
being such that it v/ill take half an hour for either two or six pounds. 
Save the fat trimmed from the fillet for frying, and the lean part for 
soup stock. A small fillet, weighing from two and a half to three 



MEATS. 475 

pounds (the average weight from a very large rump), will suffice for 
ten persons at a dinner where served as one course ; and if a larger 
quantity is wanted a great saving will be made if two small fillets 
are used. They cost about two dollars each, while a large one, 
weighing the same, would cost five dollars. Fillet of Beef in Jelly 
is another elegant dish. For this procure a small fillet, trim and cut 
a deep incision in the side, being careful not to go through to the 
other side or the ends. Fill this with one cup veal, prepared as for 
force-meat, and whites of three hard-boiled eggs, cut into rings. Sew 
up the openings, and bind the fillet into good shape with broad bands 
of cotton cloth. Put in a deep stewpan two slices each ham and 
pork, and place the fillet on them ; then put in two calf's feet, two 
stalks celery and two quarts clear stock ; simmer gently two hours 
and a half; take up the fillet and set away to cool ; strain the stock, 
and set away to harden; when hard, scrape off every particle of fat, 
and put on the fire in a clean saucepan, with half a slice of onion 
and whites of two eggs, beaten with four tablespoons cold water. 
When this boils season well with salt and setback where it will just 
simmer for half an hour, then strain through a napkin. Pour a lit- 
tle of the jelly into a two-quart charlotte-russe mold (half an inch 
deep), and set on ice to harden ; as soon as hard, decorate with egg 
rings ; add about three spoonfuls of the liquid jelly, to set the eggs ; 
when hard, add enough jelly to cover the eggs, and when this is also 
hard, trim the ends of the fillet, and draw out the thread ; place in 
center of mold, and cover with remainder of jelly. If the fillet floats, 
place a slight weight on it and set in ice chest to harden. When 
ready to serve, place the mold in a pan of warm water for half a 
minute, and then turn out the fillet gently upon a dish. Put here 
and there a sprig of parsley and garnish with a circle of egg rings, 
each of which has a stoned olive in the center. The olives may be 
opened very carefully, the stones removed, and the cavities thus 
made filled in with pounded anchovy. These Stuffed Olives are al- 
so served as "appetizers," and are eaten with a little oil, either at the 
beginning of the meal or with the cheese. Olives are served occas- 
sionally, when quite sweet, and as imported, with a little of the liquor 
in which they are preserved, at dessert, and are also often sent to 
table without removing the stones. 

Fricandeau of Beef. — Procure about three pounds of the in- 
side fillet of the sirloin, or a nice piece of the rump may be used ; 
lard the beef as directed in Larding Meats, first sprinkling the lar- 
doons with a seasoning of pepper and salt mixed with three cloves, 
two blades of mace, and six allspice, well pounded. Putin stewpan 
with one pint stock or water, bunch sweet herbs, two shallots, two 
cloves, and more pepper and salt. Stew meat gently until tender, 
when take out, cover closely, skim off all fat from gravy and strain 
it; set it on the fire and boil till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded 
side of beef with this, and serve on Sorrel Sauce, which is made as 



476 MEATS. 

follows : Wash and pick some sorrel, and put in a stevvpan with only 
the water that hangs about it ; keep stirring to prevent its burning, 
and when done, lay in a sieve to drain ; chop and stew with a small 
piece of butter and four or five tablespoons good gravy for an hour, 
and rub through. a sieve. If too acid, add a little sugar, and brussels 
sprouts boiled with the sorrel will be found an improvement. 

Pot- Roast of Beef. — Put a rather thick piece of beef in a wide, 
flat-bottomed kettle with some fat or slices of pork, or suet, and a 
sliced onion or two, if liked, and fry brown, turning to brown all 
sides ; four hours before needed pour on just hoilmr/ water enough 
to cover ; cover with a closely-fitting lid, boil gently, and as the 
water boils away add only just enough from time to time to keep 
from burning, so that when meat is tender, the water may all be boiled 
away, as the fat will allow the meat to brown without burning ; turn 
occasionally, brown evenly over a slow fire, and make a gravy by 
adding hot water if necessary to the drippings and thicken with 
browned flour. Season the meat with salt an hour before it is done. 
A nice flavor is given by putting in the water three bay lea,ves, or a 
bunch savory herbs, with a half dozen each allspice and whole pep- 
pers. Serve with the gravy poured over the meat, which will be 
juicy and tender if properly cooked, all the juices having been con- 
fined to the pot and returned to the meat by the process of frying 
down. Potatoes pared and halved are sometimes put in with the 
meat and as the liquor boils away are browned with it. Serve as a 
garnish around the meat. Corned Beef may be freshened in cold 
water by soaking overnight, changing the w^ater once or twice, and 
used for pot-roasts, and any other fresh meat may be cooked thus. 
When the meat is fat no other fat will be needed. 

Ragout of Beef. — For six pounds of the round, take half dozen 
ripe tomatoes, cut up with two or three onions, put in vessel with 
tight cover, add half a dozen cloves, a stick cinnamon, and a little 
whole black pepper ; lard the meat with fat pork, place it on the 
other ingredients, and pour over them half a cup vinegar and 
cup water; cover tigjitly and bake slowly in a moderate oven 
four or five hours ; when about half done, salt to taste. When 
done, take out the meat, strain the gravy through a colander and 
thicken with flour. 

Broiled Beefsteah. — The tenderloin, porterhouse and sirloin 
steaks are choicest and most expensive, but the flank steak is con- 
sidered a rare bit, and the round and rump steaks are more nutri- 
tious and better flavored. Have the steak cut about three-fourths of 
an inch thick ; trim ofi" tough outer skin, gristle and bits of suet, 
which will melt and drip into the fire and smoke the meat, but never 
wash a freshly cut steak, wiping with a damp cloth instead, if neces- 
sarv. If sure that the steak is tender do not pound or chop it ; if a 
little tough some pound just enough to break the fibre, but it is bet- 



MEATS. 477 

ter to hack with a sharp knife each way, not cutting quite through. 
When thus prepared care must be taken in placing the steak to broil 
to gather it up in compact shape or it will not look well when served. 
Never salt or pepper steak before broiling, for reasons heretofore 
given, but if very lean dip into melted butter. For complete direc- 
tions as to broiling see Broiled Meats. Inexperienced cooks will 
need to try the steak to know when it is done ; make a small clean 
cut in center Avith sharp knife and if the inside is purple and raw 
looking it must be cooked longer, but if a bright red just verging on 
brown, with nicely broAvned edges, it is done. Only the mere out- 
side should be broAvned for a Avell-broiled steak, which should be 
cooked in from scA^en to tAveh^e minutes, as Avanted rare or Avell done. 
Some like steak cut from an inch to an inch and a half thick, Avhich 
will require longer cooking. Instead of seasoning by sprinkling 
Avith pepper and salt and putting bits of butter o\'er the steak, have 
the butter placed on hot platter on which it is to be serA'-ed, Avith a 
liberal sprinkling of pepper and salt; take the steak up quickl}' on 
this and press a little, then turn and press again, and it Avill be found 
nicely seasoned, and much more CA'^enly than in the old Avay. Send 
to table immediately as hot as possible, for nothing is more tame 
and unsatisfactory than a cold, clammy steak. If it must stand 
Avhile more is broiled set over a kettle of hot Avater, in the hot closet, 
or open oA^en, aiming to keep hot and confino the steam and juices 
Avithout placing Avhere it Avill cook more. Broiled steak may be gar- 
nished with fried sliced potatoes, or broAvned potato l)alls the size of 
a marble, piled at each end of platter, with scraped horse-radish or 
slices of cucum^ber or lemon or sprigs of parsley. Mushroom, oyster, 
tomato, broAvn onion, draAvn butter and other sauces are frequent 
accompaniments to steak, but true lovers of this dish, when properly 
prepared, generally reject all additions but pepper and salt, though 
some like steaks dished on a little catsup or minced onion. A bit 
of onion rubbed over the platter before taking up the steak, gives a 
delicate flavor that is delicious, without any of the offensiveness the 
onion taste imparts, if used more largely. Some dredge round or 
rump steaks on turning them the last time with a mixture of four 
tablespoons sifted biscuit of rusk crumbs, one tablespoon salt, one 
teaspoon pepper, a saltspoon of either onion-powder, mushroom- 
poAvder or finely pulverized celery salt, and dish with a little mush- 
room catsup and small piece of butter. Another nice way of serving 
is to have potatoes cut into long thin slices and fried brown in but- 
ter, take up and add to the butter in which they AA'cre fried a tea- 
spoon minced herbs, stir and place on hot platter, dish the broiled 
steak on this and put the fried potatoes round as a garnish. 

For broiled or fried steaks, cutlets and chops of beef, veal, lamb 
or mutton, a Gold Marinadeia made by mixing together a buuch 
of sweet herbs, cut fine, juice of half a lemon, tAvo tablespoons oil, 
six of vinegar, one of onion juice, a pinch of cayenne, quarter tea- 



478 MEATS. 

spoon pepper and half as much ground cloves. Sprinkle the meat 
with this and let stand a day, or ten or twelve hours. When meat 
is cooked season with salt to taste. 

Fried Beefsteak. — When the means to broil are not at hand, 
the next best method is to heat the frying-pan very hot, put in steak, 
prepared as for broiling, but cut rather thinner, brown or sear as 
quickly as possible on both sides to k-eep in the juices, then cook 
until done, turning several times. A small pair of tongs are best to 
turn steaks, as piercing with a fork frees the juices. When done 
transfer to a hot platter, season with salt and pepper, and put over 
it bits of butter ; pile the steaks one on top of another, and cover 
with a hot platter. This way of frying is both healthful and delicate, 
and a steak cooked thus has all its juices preserved, and in some re- 
spects is nearly as good as broiled steak. Or, another way is to heat 
frying-pan, trim off the fat from the steak, cut in small bits and set 
on to fry ; meanwhile pound steak, then draw bits of suet to one side 
and put in steak, turn quickly over several times so as to sear the 
outside, take out on a hot platter previously prepared with salt and 
pepper, turn once or twice and return to pan, repeating the operation 
until steak is done ; dish on a hot platter, covering with another 
platter, and place where it will keep hot while making gravy. Place 
a tablespoon dry flour in frying-pan, being sure to have the fat boil- 
ing hot, stir until brown and free from lumps (the bits of suet may 
be left in, drawing them to one side until flour is browned), pour in 
about half a pint boiling water (milk or cream is better), stir well, 
season with pepper and salt, and serve in gravy tureen. Spread bits 
of butter over steak and send to table at once. Or, after seasoning 
with pepper and salt, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, then drop 
lemon juice over, and put on bits of butter last; set in hot oven a 
moment for butter to melt and soak into steak. Or, With Oysters, 
put those from which all bits of shell have been carefully removed, 
over the cooked steak with pieces of butter on top and set in hot 
oven until the edges of oysters begin to curl, then serve. A little 
water may be added to liquor from oysters, with a thickening of 
corn-starch, and seasoning to taste, making a sauce which may be 
served in spooufuls over the steak and oysters. Or put a pint oys- 
ters to drnin in colander, turning cup water over them ; put all liquor 
that drains off" on to heat, and when it boils, skim and set back. Fry 
the steak as above, then take up and stir tablespoon flour into the 
fat in pan until dark brown ; add the oyster liquor, boil one minute, 
season with salt and pepper, put the steak in, cover and simmer ten 
or ^fteen minutes ; then add the oysters and tablespoon lemon juice, 
boil one minute and serve on hot dish with oysters on steak, the 
gravy poured round, and a garnish of croutons. Some like white 
onions, sliced and fried a golden brown in deep, hot fat, laid over 
stenk. Broiled steak may be served same. For Beefsteak Smoth- 
ered in Onions, slice the onions thin and drop in cold water — some 



MEATS. 



479 



parboil them ; put steak in hot pan with a little suet ; skim out on- 
ions and add to steak, season with pepper and salt, cover tightly, 
and put over the fire. When the juice of the onions has dried up, 
and the meat has browned on one side, remove onions, turn steak, 
replace onions and fty till done, being careful not to burn. Serve 
hot, both on same platter. Another way of preparing is to boil the 
onions until tender, and fry the steak alone as directed above ; when 
done, take out, season as usual and place where it will keep hot. 
Drain the onions and mash them in the frying-pan with the steak 
gravy, season with salt and pepper and stir over the fire until hot all 
through, then place them, over the steak and serve. Beefsteaks are 
nice to first stew them in three gills water and two tablespoons vinegar, 
to which has been added a bunch sweet herbs, two blades mace, an 
onion stuck with cloves, an anchovy, and a lump of butter mixed 
smooth with flour. Stew Avith the pan covered, until the steaks are 
just tender ; then place in a frying-pan with enough fresh butter, hot, 
to cover, fry brown, pour oft"'fat, and pour into pan gravy in which 
steaks were stewed ; when gravy is thoroughly heated, place steaks 
in a hot dish and pour sauce over them. 

Hamburg Steak.— Qnt two pounds round or rump steak into 
small pieces and pass through a chopping machine, or have butcher 
chop very fine; or the meat maybe scraped off the fiores with a 
heavv tin or iron spoon. Pepper and salt the meat to taste, mix in 
two tablespoons melted butter,drippings or lard (butter is preferable), 
form into steaks and fry in a little hot butter or drippings, being 
careful not to cook too much. Any kind of meat can be used for 
this steak if one has a macliine to pass it through. A few slices of 
onion may be put into the hot butter and fried with the steak, as 
they remove the taste of the fat, and yet do not leave their own fla- 
vor ; take out the onion before serving. For a Hamhurg Roll, chop 
round steak fine, season well and shape into a roll ; put in a frying- 
pan a tablespoon or more of butter to each pound meat, wheii hot 
place the meat in it, cover and cook until as well done as liked. 
Take out the meat and make a brown gravy by stirring into the 
drippings in the pan a thickening of flour and water and serve poured 
over the meat. 

Hidden Steaks.— Rsive two slices of beef, each half an inch 
thick, cut from round. Take two or m.ore porterhouse steaks, from 
one and a half to two inches thick ; remove bones from each, taking 
care not to separate tenderloin from upper part of steak. _ Butter, 
salt and pepper the steaks on each side ; spread over one slice of the 
round half a can of mushrooms ; place porterhouse steaks on the 
mushrooms, then distribute the rest of the mushrooms over the 
steaks, covering them with the other slice of beef from the round. 
Bring the edges of the two slices together and sew. Rub vinegar 
and salt over the outside of each slice, which will harden them and 



480 MEATS. 

not onl}' prevent their juices from dropping into the fire when being 
cooked, but force them into the enclosed steaks. PLace the meat 
then on a double wire broiler and cook for from ten to fifteen min- 
utes over a bed of hot coals, turning the broiler ever}' minute or two. 
The outside of the slices from the round will be done to a crisp. Be- 
fore serving, draw the thread binding them together, and lift care- 
fully off the upper slice, placing it with the crisp side down on a 
platter. Remove the steaks to a hot dish and spread over them all 
of the mushrooms. Scrape with a spoon the inside of each slice of 
the round, obtaining a quantity of rich juice, which pour over the 
steaks. If a grav}' is desired turn this juice into a saucepan, add a 
portion of the mushrooms, a piece of butter the size of an egg and 
a gill beef stock ; when it boils pour it over the steak. 

Oyster Steaks. — Cut beefsteak into pieces two inches square, or 
about the size of large oysters, single-bread them and fry a nice brown 
by immersing in hot lard as Croquettes. Pork^ Veal and Mutton 
rnay be fried same way. Or they may be dipped in a batter and 
fried as above. 

Stuffed Beefsteak. — This can be prepared from a round steak 
and is as nice for dinner as a much more expensive roast ; pound 
well, season with salt, pepper and bits of butter, then spread with a 
nice dressing made of one egg, bread-crumbs, pepper, sage and a 
little cream or butter ; roll up and tie closely with twine ; put in ket- 
tle with quart boiling water, and a lump of butter if liked, and boil 
slowly one hour ; take out and place in dripping-pan, adding water 
in which it was boiled, basting frequently until a nice brown, and 
making gravy of the drippings; or put it at once into the dripping- 
pan, omit the boiling process, skewer a couple slices salt pork on 
top. add a very little water, put in oven, baste frequently, and if it 
bakes too rapidly cover with a dripping-pan. It is delicious sliced 
cold. This is known also as Mock Duck. For Beef Olives have 
two pounds nice rump steak cut rather thin, slightly beat to make 
level, cut into six or seven pieces, brush over with egg, and sprinkle 
with herbs, which should be very finely minced ; season with pepper 
and salt, roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with g 
small skewers or wooden toothpicks. Put a pint 
stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for 
by being pressed together they will keep their 
shape better ; lay in the rolls of meat, cover them with bacon, cut in 
thin slices, and" over that put a piece of paper. Stew very gently 
two hours ; the slower they are done the better. Take out, remove 
skewers, thicken gravy with butter and flour, and flavor with any 
sauce preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat and serve. Or 
after cutting and seasoning the steaks spread them thinly with a 
nice force-meat, then roll up tightly, fasten \vith a skewer, single- 
bread them and fry a pale brown by immersing in hot fat. Serve 
with any sauce liked. 




MEATS. 481 

Beefsteak Pie. — Cut three pounds rump steak into pieces about 
three inches long and two wide, allowing a small piece of fat to each 
piece of lean, and arrange the meat in layers in a pudding dish. Be- 
tween each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt, pepper, and when 
liked, a small pinch cayenne or some chopped parsley. Fill the 
dish with sufficient meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice 
raised appearance when baked. Pour in enough w^ater to half fill 
the dish, and border it with paste (see pastry) ; brush it over with a 
little water, and put on thecover; slightly pressinedges with thumb,- 
and trim off close to dish. Ornament pie with leaves, or pieces of 
paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct, brush it over with the 
Roll Glaze, cut a hole in top of crust, and bake in a hot oven for 
about an hour and a half. Or first prepare seasoning of three parts 
salt and one part black pepper, with just a dash of ground nutmeg, 
and season with it enough thin slices of nice tender steak to fill the 
dish, which must be lined with paste ; sprinkle slices with chopped 
parsley and roll up, passing a small woodenskewer or wooden tooth- 
pick through each to hold in place. When dish is full add enough 
water to make a good gravy and lay on top slices of hard-boiled eggs, 
cover wath the crust, wash over with beaten eggs and bake in moder- 
ate oven. Should be done when it has baked twenty minutes. 
For another nice pie take slices of beef cut very thin and a few 
thicker pieces out of a loin of pork. Spread slices of beef with pota- 
toes, chopped onion and fine herbs ; roll up and tie with thread. Pack 
the meat into dish with parsley between each layer ; pour a little 
gravy over the wdiole, season liberally and bake under a light crust. 
Beefsteak pies may be flavored with oysters, mushrooms, minced 
onions, etc., and the crust may be made of suet instead of lard or 
butter, and where economy is necessary, clarified drippings may be 
used. Cutting the meat in small pieces as above makes it more ten- 
der and more easily served and also gives more gravy than when 
left in larger pieces. For a Sea Pie., line a good-sized dish with 
paste made with fresh beef suet. Cut in small pieces one pound 
beef; lay it on bottom of dish ; slice in an onion, sprinkle a handful 
of flour over and add a little pepper and salt to taste. Cover all 
with water, fill the dish with potatoes that have been peeled and laid 
in clean cold water ; cover the top of the dish with a good paste, tie 
a cloth tightly round, plunge into boiling water, and boil quickly 
two hours. A very nourishing dish when w^ell cooked. This is of- 
ten made of corned beef, when the dish is lined with any plain pastry 
or rich baking powder crust. Putin first a layer of sliced onions, then 
a layer corned beef cut in slices, then sliced potatoes, a layer of pork, 
and another of onions ; strew pepper over all, cover with a crust and 
tie down tightly with a cloth previously dipped in boiling water and 
floured. Boil two hours, and serve hot. 

Beefstealc Pudding. — Chop fine a half pound nice suet and mix 
with it a scant pound flour, teaspoon salt, half saltspoon pepper and 



482 MEATS. 

enough cold water to form a dough to roll as for biscuit ; roll out to 
three-fourths of an inch in thickness and line a buttered t^yo-quart 
bowl with it, leaving the crust hanging over the edge all round. Cut 
two pounds round steak into inch squares, some add also two sheep's 
kidneys cut in squares, and place in the crust with a dessertspoon 
each Worcester sauce and mushroom catsup; season well with pep- 
per and salt, turn in a half cup cold water and draw the crust up 
over the meat, wetting the edges to make them stick together, and 
tie to confine the juices or gravy while the meat is cooking, or the 
dish will be spoiled ; wet a cloth in hot water, dust over with flour, 
and tie the pudding in it by placing the center of cloth on top of 
dish and bringing corners underneath, tie them tightly with cord. 
Have ready a large pot of boiling water in which stand the pudding 
bowl and boil steadily three hours. To serve, remove cloth, turn 
the pudding out on a hot platter without breaking the crust and send 
to table hot. Or it may be served in the bowl enveloped in a nap- 
kin. A rich gravy will come from the meat, a S])oonful or two of 
which will be served on each plate with a slice of the pudding. Some 
make paste as above, roll out half an inch thick and lay on it slices 
of steak well seasoned with pepper and salt, roll up, tie in a cloth, 
and boil three hours. A few oysters and a sliced onion improve the 
dish for some. 

Mock Quail. — Cut tenderloin into nice-sized pieces and boil un- 
til cooked through, then brown in a frying-pan Avith a little butter 
and serve on slices of toasted bread a little larger than the slices of 
meat, pouring a rich brown gravy made in pan over all. 

Toad-in-IIole. — Cut a pound round or rump steak into dice and 
make this batter : Beat an egg very light, stir into one pint milk 
with a half teaspoon salt, and pour gradually over one cup flour, 
beating until light and smooth ; butter a two-quart baking dish and 
put in the 'meat, season well with butter, pepper and salt and pour in 
the batter. Bake an hour in a moderate oven and serve hot. Mut- 
ton or Lamb may be used instead of beef. Or mix with the steak a 
sheep's kidney cut into pieces of same size. The remains of cold 
beef may be substituted for the steak, and when liked the smallest 
quantity of minced onion or shallot may be added. 

Boiled Corned Beef. — Soak the meat overnight if very salt, but 
if beef is young and properly corned this is not necessary ; skewer 
into nice form and put on with cold water enough to cover well, af- 
ter washing off the salt. Corned beef should be placed on a part of 
the stove or range where it will simmer, not boil, uninterruptedly 
from four to six hours, according to the size of 
the piece. When done, remove skewers, pour over 
it a little of the liquor and garnish with vegetables 
neatly sliced or cut into balls or fancy shapes. 

Boned Conned Beef. rpj^^ ^^^^^^ ^j-^^g ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ j Ulisightly 

may be cut oflf before sending the meat to table and kept for potting. 




MEATS. 483 

Put away the liquor for soup. Boiled vegetables and sometimes 
suet dumplings accompany this dish and are often boiled with meat. 
Serve with Horse-radish Gravy. If to be sliced cold, let meat re- 
main in liquor until cold ; some let tough beef remain in liquor until 
next day to make tender, bringing to boiling point just before serv- 
ing. Simmer a brisket or plate-piece until the bones are easily re- 
moved, fold over, forming a square or oblong piece, wrap in a towel, 
place sufficient weight on top to ]iressthe parts closely together, and 
set where it will become cold. This gives a firm, solid piece to cut 
in slices, and is a delightful relish. Boil liquor down, remove fat, 
season with pepper or sweet herbs, and save it to pour over finely 
minced scraps and pieces of beef; press them firmly into a mold, 
pour the liquor over and place a close cover with a weight upon it. 
When turned from the mold, garnish with sprigs of parsley or cel- 
ery, and serve with fancy pickles or French mustard. Any bottled 
sauce is nice with cold beef, or make Carrack Sauce by slicing two 
heads garlic, adding one quart good vinegar, three spoonfuls mango 
pickle, five of essence of anchovies (or fifteen anchovies), eight of 
Avalnut pickle, five of mushroom catsup, and five of soy. Mix all 
in a bottle, and set in cupboard by the kitchen fire or in some dry, 
warm place. Shake it regularly every day for a month. The man- 
go pickle may be omitted. For Sandwiches slice cold beef very 
thin. For Collared Beef, take seven pounds corned beef, not too fat, 
from thin end of flank, bone it, remove all gristle and the coarse skin 
of the inside part, sprinkle thickly Avith a mixture of a large hand- 
ful of parsley, a dessertspoon sage fi.nely minced, half teaspoon 
powdered allspice, and salt and pepper to taste. Roll the meat up in 
a cloth as tightly as possible in nice round form, bind firmly with 
broad tape and boil gently six hours. Take up and put under a 
weight without undoing it and let remain until cold. Very nice for 
breakfast, luncheon or tea. Some use ribs of beef and remove bones 
before rubbing with salt, etc., and bake instead of boiling, first sea- 
soning with ground pepper, mace, cloves, allspice and a clove of gar- 
lic, chopped very fine, then covering well with parsley, thyrne and 
sweet marjoram. Form into a roll ns above, omitting the cloth, 
simply binding with tape and bake. Put under weights for a day or 
two and serve cold. 

Corned Beef Steiv. — Procure a piece of brisket of corned beef 
about three times its width in length, weighing about six ])ounds. 
Wash in cold water, season with pepper, roll and tie very tightly ; 
put over fire in pot with cold water to cover and bring slowly to 
boiling point; then pour off the water and cover again with fresh, 
add a half pint vinegar, an onion stuck with ten cloves, a small red 
pepper, blade of mace, and a stalk of celery or parsley with root at- 
tached. Boil gently until done, allowing half an hour for each pound 
meat. When done, take out a pint of liquor, and if too salt for gravy 
add water and a very Utile vinegar. Brown a tablespoon each but- 



484 



MEATS. 




ter and flour in saucepan, add the pint liquor, season to taste and 
serve with the beef, which should be accompanied with boiled beets, 
cabbage or turnips. If to be served cold let cool in the liquor. Any 
cut of corned beef may be cooked same. Suet dumplings may be 
added. Or cut pieces of salt beef and pork into dice, put in stewpan 
with six whole pepper-corns, two blades mace, a few cloves, teaspoon 
celery seed, and bunch of dried sweet herbs ; cover with Avater, and 
stew gently for an hour, then add diced carrots, turnips and parsnips, 
or any other vegetables at hand, with two sliced onions, and some 
vinegar to flavor ; thicken with flour, or rice, remove the herbs and 
pour in dish with toasted bread, or freshly baked biscuit broken 
small, and serve hot. A few potatoes should also be cooked with it. 

Stuifed Brisket of Beef. — Wash a brisket of corned beef in cold 
water, cut out bone, spread a bread and onion dressing over it, roll 
it up and tie securely ; then roll the beef in a cloth, 
tie the ends of the cloth, and again a few inches 
from each end. Put it into enough boiling water 
to cover and boil gently four hours. Unroll it, stuffed Brisket of Beer. 
take off strings, wet the cloth in cold water, and roll it again around 
the beef; put the roll between two platters, set a heavyweight on the 
upper one, and press the meat until it is cold. After the meat is 
pressed and cold, the cloth may be removed, and the meat sliced 
and served. 

Frizzled Beef luith Eggs. — Cut a pound smoked dried beef in 
very thin slices ; put it in frying-pan with cold w^ater to cover and 
when it begins to boil, drain off water and put in two tablespoons 
butter; beat six eggs smoothly with half cup cold milk and add to 
beef, season with salt and pepper and stir over fire until the eggs 
begin to thicken. Serve on toast. 

Yankee Dried Beef. — Slice very thin, put in frying-pan with 
water to cover, let come to boiling point, pour ofl", and add pint milk, 
lump of butter, and thickening of little flour and milk, stir well, and 
just before seiving some add an egg, stirring it in quickly ; or, chip 
very fine, freshen, add a lump of butter and six or eight eggs, stir 
well and serve at once. Cold boiled or baked beef may be sliced and 
cooked in same way= Or, after the freshening, first frizzle it in but- 
ter, dredge with flour, and add the milk. When ends or thin pieces 
of dried beef become too dry and hard, put in cold water and boil 
very slowly six or eight hours ; slice when cold, and the broth is nice 
for soup ; or soak overnight in cold water, and boil three or four 
hours. Many think all dried beef is improved by this method. 

Nev) England Boiled Dinner. — Remove bone from a compact 
cut of round of corned beef weighing about six pounds, and tie meat 
as firmly as possible ; put in deep pot, cover with cold water, add a 
teaspoon salt and half saitspoon white pepper ; let boil quickly, 



MEATS. 



485 



onion tt^el/r^^ ^^"^^^ -''''' ^T^ 
of celeiy cut hi twoSch LTthf unbroken, and a large head 

will simmer slow7v Wo hourf A I^^'' ^^-^ pot where its contents 
may be added blfore tL d^sL'Af T sauce preferred 

middle of platter arrange v^pLki^^^ J? '^''^^ '^^ put meat in 
the gravy over More^f thp f ^! l^'^^?^ ^^' ^'^^ P^^^' ^ ^^^tle of 
with a dish of bSpotatoef Tb.?.''^- ^%'''''^^ in a small boat, 
vegetablescharacte Les^ the cSh The beel^"^"\"^ '^m™.^'^* ^^^^^ 
ately, keeping them whole, If preferred! ^^'^^ ^^^/^^ boiled separ- 

freshfnedtr^edTe^f in sm^.^'^^f ' ^^^"f ^f "^' ^^* *^^« Po^^ds 
pan to brown with twrsHcdCfonr^^^^^^^ 

potatoes and when meat and nn ., 1?°^ ""''^ '^^^'^^^^^ ^ ^^^^en 

baking dish, in layeJ^witrthpTf/'^ brown put them in deep 
adding boiling w^ran^ si oniLlfo?^ f^^'- ^ P"^* ^'^"^Y ^7 
thicken with t°wo teaspoo ^Cr^di sohedt^'? 1?^/ %ing-pan, 
pour the gravy over the mpV^^r^ , '^,^°/^®^ ^^ a little cold water; 
oven to bake.^ TheVwilTbe donf if.h 'f ' ^''? ^""^ *^°/^ ^^ ^^^^^^ 
served hot; if sent to table in til / ''^•'T >°^\^' ^'^^ should be 
a clean dish must be placed under it ' '^'''' "' '''''''' '' '' ^'^'^^ 

tborotily,afdTo'relS o^ a beef, sheep or veal, wash 

two to foul' hois trremtv^ani^ and water from 

by cutting through the plrtition wftb n I' ^^' 1""° 7^^?.^^^^^ °^^^ 

careful not to cutthrou%Uo heo'ti^^- ^^ +1''" -'^ ''^ ' ^'"'^ 
of bread-crumbs or veaT or nf >,!? V- 1 1 ' ^'^^ ^^'® ^'''''''y ^^^^^ a stuffing 
with greased paper 01 lotlfto'sS^^ force-meat; cove? 

pan with a few ilices salt pork anTplentv^??'^.'^^ •^^'' '^ ^ ^^^'P 
oven for two hours or lonipr Ll- ^ }I o± water, m a moderate 
part particular?y s apttolet'd^v diT^*^-^^^^ °^*^^^' '-^^^he upper 
Roasted Meats t'he last haf? hour' {vifiW ' ^°^' "^'?. ^^''' ^' ^'^ 
valves of the heart, or ''d(?aLars '' wll ll . 1 '' '''^t'''^^ P^t the 

add a taM^on C?; ttthr^trj^dT^C ^SXe^^i 
^Mm\ '^T ^'7 ^'^''''^' Garnish with baked o'nions 

CX i. -. _^K^ r^^^* ^^^o^e stuffing, which makes it more 
^^^^^^^" Se a'W'onio "^'>^^\«^-Piy stuffed .^'h 
a beefs heart overnight in' v'k " ne' and' bo?l X'^ l''''^ ^?^ 




486 MEATS. 

lambs' hearts are often baked with a slice of fat bacon tied round 
each. Make a gravy in pan and serve poured round them. Calf's 
heart, baked as above, is nice served with the lights and liver; boil 
the lights till tender then cut in small pieces, add enough of the 
water they were boiled in for gravy and table- 
spoon lemon juice, a little nutmeg, pepper and 
salt, and tablespoon butter mixed with flour to 
thicken ; let boil and serve with the liver, cut in 
pieces an inch square and broiled, as a garnish for the heart. Cold 
boiled heart can be sliced thin, then fried or broiled. 

Fried Heart. — Soak the heart in warm water an hour, then cut 
into slices half an inch thick, dip in flour, then in egg, then in bread- 
crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt and fry in a small quantity 
of butter or American cooking oil. If all cannot be fried at once be 
sure to place the slices fried first where they will keep hot until all 
are done. Pour off part of the fat and make a gravy by stirring in 
a teaspoon flour and adding a gill water, pepper and salt, four table- 
spoons vinegar from piccalilli and a little of the pickle finely chopped , 
boil all one minute, pour over the fried heart and serve very hot. It 
is also very good served with broiled bacon with a plain gravy, gar- 
nished with slices of lemon. Or the slices of heart may be plainly 
fried in a little hot drippings or butter and served with each slice 
covered with a slice of fried bacon. Thicken two or three table- 
spoons water with a little flour and boil in pan with drippings heart 
was fried in, season with pepper and salt, add teaspoon red currant 
jelly and serve poured round the heart, all as hot as possible. 

PicJded Heart. — Wash the heart well and put on to boil with 
a tablespoon salt in water to cover. Cook until tender, take out and 
cool, then cut into slices. Boil two-thirds cup vinegar with a half 
cup water, seasoned with a tablespoon cinnamon and half tablespoon 
pepper, ten minutes and pour over the sliced heart. Will be nicely 
l^ickled and ready for use in two or three hours. Pickle may be 
seasoned with any spices liked. 

Baked Liver. — Any liver may be baked, though calf's liver is a 
much more delicate dish than any other. To bake or roast plainly, 
first soak in clear water, though some use salted water to extract the 
blood, and some skin, as this gives a more delicate flavor. Then 
dry in a cloth, rub over well with salt and melted butter or drip- 
pings and bake in a pan on a trivet, as Roast Beef, basting often with 
butter or drippings. When done sprinkle with pepper and serve 
with a piquant sauce, flavored with chopped capers or gherkins, 
poured over. Larded Liver is a delicious dish. Soak as above and 
lard a whole calf's liver, about three pounds, as directed in Larding 
Meats ; place in a pan on bed of vegetables prepared as for Roast 
Beef and bake an hour and a half, basting often. Some put a but- 



MEATS. 487 

tered paper over it until nearly done, then remove to let the liver 
and larding brown. To make the gravy, pour away nearly all the 
drippings from pan, leaving about two tablespoons ; rub through 
sieve with potato masher and put in saucepan with tablespoon flour, 
stir until brown and add slowly a pint water. Or lard the liver and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper and a teaspoon mixed spices, putting 
another teaspoon spices in pan with half pint water. Baste with 
butter until gravy in pan is rich enough to baste with that, dredging 
with flour after each basting. Serve with gravy from pan poured 
over, flavored with lemon juice, first skimming off all fat from top. 
After larding, the liver is sometimes put in a pickle of vinegar Aviih 
spices and herbs and left twenty-four hours. Then bake as above, 
using some of the vinegar from pickle in pan instead of water. For 
Boiled Larded Liver, prepare as above, season with salt and pepper, 
tie a cord around the liver to keep in shape, put in kettle with quart 
cold water, quarter pound bacon, onion chopped fine, and teaspoon 
sweet marjoram; simmer slowly for two hours, pour off gravy into 
gravy-dish, and brown liver in kettle. Serve with the_ gravy. For 
Stuffed Liver, soak as above, then make one or more incisions and 
fill with any stuffing liked, or a force-meat made of part of the liver 
parboiled and chopped fine with fat bacon, bread-crumbs, powdered 
sweet herbs, spices and pepper and salt ; roll the liver, bind pieces 
of fat pork or bacon over, or lard it, and bake as above. Serve hot 
for dinner with gravy from pan, or sliced cold for luncheon or tea. 

Broiled Liver. — Cut the liver in thin slices, pour boiling hot 
water over and immediately drain it off; this seals the outside, takes 
away the unpleasant flavor, and makes it much more palatable ; then 
skin, as this also gives a strong flavor, season with pepper and salt, 
dip in melted butter or drippings and broil on buttered gridiron or 
broiler, as directed in Broiled Meats. Some dip also in flour before 
broiling. Dish on a hot platter, pour melted butter overand sprinkle 
with chopped parsley. Calf's liver is very nice broiled, though any 
liver may be thus cooked. Slices of broiled bacon may be served 
with it. 

Curried Liver. — Cut the liver in small, thin pieces, and for every 
pound take four tablespoons butter, two slices of onion, two table- 
spoons flour, speck of cayenne, salt, pepper and teaspoon curry 
powder. Heat butter in frying-pan and cook the liver in it slowly 
five minutes, then add flour and other ingredients ; cook two min- 
utes, stirring all well, add a cup stock, boil up and serve. 

Deviled Liver.— Ch.o\-> three pounds liver with a quarter pound 
salt pork and mix with a half pint bread-crumbs, three tablespoons 
salt, teaspoon pepper, half teaspoon each cayenne, mace and cloves. 
Put in covered mold and set in saucepan cold water ; bring to a boil 
and boil two hours. Take out the mold, uncover and place in oven 



488 MEATS. 



to dry off, then set away to get cold. To serve, turn out of mold and 
slice as wanted at table. 

Fried Liver. — Prepare as directed in Broiled Liver, and have 
ready in skillet on stove some hot lard or beef drippings, or better, 
half and half; roll the liver in flour (Graham is nice), cracker or 
bread-crumbs, nicely seasoned with pepper and salt, put in skillet, 
placing the tin cover on, fry slowly until both sides are dark-brown, 
when the liver will be thoroughly cooked. The time required is 
about a quarter of an hour. Make a gravj'' by stirring into the drip- 
pings a tablespoon flour and adding a pint milk. Boil up, season 
and serve poured over the liver. Some ahvays single-bread liver. 
Or first throw into the hot drippings a half onion minced fine, if the 
flavor is liked, and one or two sprigs parsley, chopped. Turn the 
liver several times that it may absorb the flavor. When done put 
where it will keep hot and make a sauce in another pan by stirring 
a teaspoon flour into tablespoon hot butter until brown, add cup 
boiling water, stirring well, and pepper, salt, tablespoon vinegar and 
heaping tablespoon capers. Drain the slices of liver from fat and put 
into sauce until ready to serve, when arrange neatly on dish and turn 
the sauce over. For Royal Fried Liver, cut two-thirds pound 
calf's liver into slices, and fry half in butter ; then pound in a mor- 
tar, with a few capers, a few gherkins, allspice, and sugar, press 
through a sieve, and add juice of a lemon, and a little pepper, salt, 
and vinegar. Put in hot water or near the fire, but not on it, to keep 
hot. Flour the remaining slices and fry in fresh butter, place on a 
plate, and pour over them the first part, reduced to a thick sauce. 
Will be found delicious. Liver Rolls may be served with the above 
sauce. Fried Liver and Bacon is a dish common at most tables. 
Fry in a pan slices of bacon and keep hot while frying thin slices of 
liver, prepared as in Broiled Liver, in same fat. When done serve 
liver and bacon on same dish, garnished with slices of lemon or 
force-meat balls. Make a gravy by dredging a little flour in pan af- 
ter pouring off some of the fat, adding a fourth pint broth, salt, pep- 
per, tablespoon mushroom catsup and one of finely chopped gher- 
kins or pickled walnuts if liked. Boil and pour round the liver in 
dish. Or serve with tomato sauce. Liver is apt to be dry and hard 
unless first dropped into boiling water, or let stand ten minutes or 
so in warm water. A good way is to steep it in vinegar and water 
half an hour, then cut into thin slices, skin, roll in flour, fry very 
crisp, and serve with fried onions. Some cut bacon and liver into 
small squares, place on skewers alternately, fry by immersing in 
hot fat, or in dripping pan in oven, turning two or three times, 
and serve on moist buttered toast. Sheep's liver should be par- 
boiled before frying. For Minced Liver, cut in pieces and fry with 
slices of pork ; then cut both into dice, nearly cover with water, add 
a little lemon-juice and pepper, thicken the gravy with bread-crumbs 
or browned flour, and eerve. 



MEATS. 489 

Stewed Liver, — Scald and skin the liver, cut into slices and 
fry till both sides are brown, then pour on boiling water, or canned 
tomatoes, also boiling, to cover, and stew fifteen or twenty minutes, 
keeping closely covered. Serve hot, with macaroni if liked. If 
rolled in flour before frying there will be a nice gravy for stewing. 
Or parboil, then cut into small pieces, dust over with flour, and 
stew in as little water as possible ; season with butter, pepper 
and salt, and a little chopped onion if liked. Just before serving 
thicken the gravy with flour and serve hot. To stew calf's liver, 
cut in pieces, lard nicely, and spread chopped parsley, pepper and 
salt over them ; put a small piece of butter well mixed with flour in 
the bottom of a stewpan, lay in the liver, and let it cook gently in 
its own juice until done. 

Liver Balls. — Any liver may be used, but chicken livers are 
preferred. Chop very fine, adding parsley, onion, and lemon juice 
until all forms a good sauce. Beat a cup butter to a cream, add six 
whole eggs, one at time, and stir well, adding little salt. If the mix- 
ture gets too cold and the butter separates, beat it near the fire. 
Then mix in the liver and thicken with sifted bread-crumbs. Have 
ready a kettle with either boiling water or soup — the latter is better — 
take the liver mixture by the spoonful, taking care to dip the spoon 
in hot water each time, drop in the hot liquid and boil. These balls 
are for soup, and Meat Balls from the same recipe are very good. 

Liver Rolls. — Slice the liver, let stand in boiling water five min- 
utes or so, remove the skin and season, with salt and pepper. Put a 
thin piece of fat, salt pork or bacon on each slice and roll up, fasten- 
ing with a string or pinning with toothpicks. Fry until nicely 
browned in hot drippings or butter, then stir in a tablespoon flour 
and when this has browned cover with water, add more seasoning 
if necessary and cook half an hour. May be served as a regular 
meat course at dinner. A slice of truffle may be rolled with the 
bacon. Or, cut two sheep's livers in slices half an inch thick ; season 
with salt and pepper, spread over each a layer of sausage meat as 
thick as the liver, season that, roll each slice up, and tie in place 
with a string, put in baking pan on a bed of vegetables as in Roast 
Beef, put over each roll a tablespoon of brown gravy, and bake in 
moderate oven about forty minutes or until thoroughly cooked ; lay 
them on a hot platter, add a gill stock or water to the pan, stir the 
vegetables about in it, and strain over the liver. Serve very hot. 

Liver Pudding. — Chop three pounds raw liver and a fourth 
pound fat salt pork together, add half pint bread-crumbs, three tea- 
spoons salt, one of black pepper, half teaspoon each mace and cay- 
enne, a pinch of cloves, and put in covered mold or tin pail ; set in 
kettle of cold water, having water reach half the height of mold, 
cover the kettle, and cook, after it begins to boil, two hours. Take 



490 



MEATS. 



out mold, uncover and set in open oven to let steam pass off. Serve 
cold. 

Blcmquetie of Calfs Liver. — Wash two pounds of calf's liver, 
put it into a stewpan with two quarts of boiling water, and simmer 
three hours. Take up and cool, then cut it "nto little cubes, and 
season with salt and pepper. Put three tablespoons pepper in fry- 
ing-pan with one large slice of onion, and cook slowly three minutes ; 
then add three tablespoons flour, and stir until mixture is smooth 
and frothy, but not brown. Draw the pan back, and gradually add 
a pint white stock ; then remove the onion, and, drawing the pan to 
hot part of stove, stir until it boils. Season to taste with salt and 
pepper. Put the liver in pan, and cook eight minutes, add a half 
cup milk, and when the blanquette boils up, remove from fire, add 
tablespoon lemon juice and serve without delay. 

Mock Terrapin. — Season half a calf's liver with salt and fry 
brown in butter, cut in small bits, dredge well with flour, add half 
pint water, teaspoon each mixed mustard and lemonjuice, half salt- 
spoon cayenne, two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and two table- 
spoons butter. Boil a minute or two and serve. Cold veal may be 
used instead of liver. 

Broiled Kidneys. — Chop fine one teaspoon each onions, parsley 
and any green herb in season ; add one level teaspoon salt, half 
saltspoon pepper, pinch of cayenne and tablespoon butter ; mix on 
a plate and set where it will get hot. Wash the kidneys in cold 
salted water, split and take out membrane and white fat, lay in hot 
melted butter a moment, then broil on hot buttered gridiron or 
broiler, then roll them over and over in the hot prepared seasonings. 
Serve as quickly as possible garnished with sprigs of parsley or 
slices of lemon. Or before broihng dip the kidneys into a mixture 
of tablespoon each oil or melted butter and vinegar, saltspoon salt, 
pinch of pepper and teaspoon mustard. Slices of Veal Kidney!^ 
and Bacon are sometimes broiled on skewers, placed alternately, and 
served on the skewers. Broiled Sheep's Kidneys are done same ; 
or, cut open on the back without entirely separating them, run them 
on a skewer to keep them flat, dredge with pepper and salt, rub 
lightly with butter or oil and broil three minutes on each side over 
hot fire,_ laying the flat sides first on gridiron to keep the gravy in. 
Some slice them through the fat before broiling, leaving just enough 
fat on for a border round the kidney. Serve very hot with a bit of 
butter, pepper salt and a little lemon juice on each, or with drawn 
butter sauce poured over, or on slices of buttered toast cut in fancy 
shapes, or thin slices of broiled potatoes, with a bit of butter on each. 
Some think sheep's kidneys better than calves' for broiling. Broiled 
Sheep'r Heart is cooked the same. Or place either flat side up in 
baking dish in oven and when done serve dressed as above in dish in 



MEATS. 491 

which they were baked. Kidneys must always be cooked very quick- 
ly or they will be dry and hard. Some skin kidneys before cooking. 

Fried Kidneys. — Cut a beef kidney into thin slices, removing 
all fat, and soak an hour or two in warm water, changing the water 
two or three times ; dry in a clean cloth and fry in clarified butter 
or drippings till a nice brown, rolling first in flour if preferred. 
Season well with salt and pepper and serve around a dish with gravy 
in the center ; just before dishing add a little lemon juice and sugar to 
the gravy. Some sprinkle the kidney slices with minced parsley 
and onion and seasoning of salt and pepper before frying. If the 
onion flavor is not liked use a small quantity of savory herbs. 
Flavor the gravy with tablespoon mushroom catsup and add a 
little lemon juice. Pour over the kidney and garnish with border of 
croutons. Mutton Kidneys may be done same. 

Stevjed Kidneys. — If wanted for breakfast, boil kidneys the 
night before till very tender, turn into a dish with the gravy and 
cover. In the morning, boil for a few moments, thicken with flour 
and water, add part of an onion chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and 
a lump of butter, and pour over toasted bread well buttered. Or 
split the kidneys and slice them thin on a plate ; dust with flour, 
pepper and salt ; brown some flour in butter in a stewpan, mix 
smooth with a little water, put in the sliced kidneys and let them 
simmer, but not boil, until done. Butter slices of toast and pour 
the stewed kidneys over, gravy and all. Or put a small onion, or 
two heaping tablespoons chopped onion, in frying pan with one 
heaping tablespoon butter and set over fire where butter will simply 
melt. Cut kidneys into pieces one-half inch square, put in pan and 
fry very quickly about five minutes, add heaping tablespoon flour 
and stir till flour browns, then pour in a pint boiling water and half 
a cup tomato catsup, or two tablespoons any good table sauce, add 
a seasoning of salt and pepper, stir until all are smoothly blended, let 
them cook ten minutes, and serve the dish at once, garnished Avith 
croutons. If the fire is hot the kidney ought to be cooked in twenty 
minutes ; it is not necessary to parboil kidney, or to cook it for a long 
time,'and the more quickly it is cooked the more tender it will be; 
the kidney should be quite brown before the flour is put with it, then 
the gravy will be brown. 

Kidney Ragout. — Take two beef kidneys, nicely washed and 
well salted ; cut into bits of half an inch each, dredge or roll in flour, 
then drop in hot lard and cook until brown. Scald two quarts 
tomatoes and stew in their own liquor half an hour. When kidneys 
are well browned put them in stewpan with tomatoes, add an onion 
and a half, finely chopped, cayenne pepper to taste, and a little 
parsley. Simmer two hours over slow fire ; should the stew be too 
thick a cup hot water may be added. Serve hot, with a dish of 



492 



MEATS. 



boiled rice. In winter canned tomatoes may be uped. A delicious 
dish is made by substituting mushrooms for the tomatoes, and pre- 
paring m same \yay, except that the mushrooms are added to the kid- 
neys without being first stewed, and the ragout requires simmering 
another hour. 

Broiled Ox-tails. — Joint and cut two tails into convenient- 
sized pieces and put in a saucepan with a pint and a half stock, or 
boiling water, with seasoning of salt and cayenne, and if liked a 
bunch savory herbs. Simmer gently about tvvo and one-half hours : 
then take out, drain and let them cool. Dip into beaten egg and 
bread-crumbs and broil or fry in hot fat until a rich brown on both 
sides ; or they may be browned in buttered pan in quick oven. Serve 
with a rich gravy made from liquor in which they were stewed, or 
any sauce preferred. 

Stewed Ox-tails. — Cut two ox-tails into pieces about four 
inches long ; cut a large onion, half carrot, three slices turnip and 
two stalks celery in small pieces and fry in three tablespoons hot 
butter until beginning to brown, then stir in two tablespoons flour ; 
cook two or three minutes, put in the tails, season with salt and 
pepper, add pint and a half stock or water and simmer gently about 
three hours. Serve hot with the gravy strained over. Or more of 
the vegetables may be used, with addition of potatoes, putting tur- 
nips and carrots in after meat has cooked an hour, and potatoes 
twenty minutes before done. The onion may be chopped and fried 
first as above. Serve with vegetables heaped in center of dish with 
tails round them and the gravy poured over all. Or divide two 
ox-tails at the joints, wash and put in stewpan with water to cover 
and set over the fire. When water boils, skim and add an onion 
cut into rings, three cloves, blade of mace, quarter teaspoon each 
whole black pepper and allspice, half teaspoon salt and bunch savory 
herbs. Cover closely and simmer gently until tails are tender, about 
two and a half hours. Take them out, add thickening of butter and 
flour and boil fifteen minutes. Strain through sieve into saucepan, 
put in tails, add tablespoon each lemon juice and catsup, boil up 
once and serve. Garnish with croutons or bits of toasted bread. 

Beef Palates. — Simmer the palates in water several hours, till 
they will peel ; then cut into slices, or leave them whole, as preferred, 
and stew in a rich gravy till quite tender. Before serving, season 
with cayenne, salt and catsup. If the gravy is wanted thick, add 
butter and flour and boil up. If to be served white, boil the palates 
in milk till tender and add cream, butter, flour and a little pounded 
mace, stew a few moments and serve. 

Baked Tongue. — Parboil a fresh tongue in water until done enough 
to peel. Then make a sauce by stewing together about twenty minutes 
a dozen ripe tomatoes and a large onion,seasoiied with pepper and salt. 



MEATS. 493 

Put the tongue in baking pan, pour the sauce over and bake a nice 
brown. For Baked Spiced Tongue, wash a spiced tongue (for which 
see recipes in Cutting and Curing Meats) put it in small pan j ust large 
enough to hold it, place pieces of butter on it, and cover with a com- 
mon crust. Bake in slow oven until so tender that a straw will 
penetrate it; take off skin, fasten it down to a boarS by running a 
fork through the root and another through the tip, at the same time 
straightening and putting it into shape. When cold, glaze it, put a 
paper ruche round the root, which is generally very unsightly, and 
garnish with tufts of parsley. A boiled tongue can be trussed in 
same way. The tongues of beef, veal, sheep or lamb can all be cooked 
in same manner, as above, or as directed in any of the recipes that 
follow, the three latter being, of course, the more delicate. 

Boiled Tongue. — Wash clean, put in pot with water to cover, 
a pint salt, and a small pod of red pepper seasons it nicely ; if the 
water boils away, add more so as to keep the tongue nearly covered 
until done ; boil until it can be pierced easily with a fork, take out, 
and if needed for present use, trim off the fleshy bits near the roots, 
take off skin and set away to cool; if to be kept some days, do not 
peel until wanted for table, and it will be much more juicy if left 
till cool in the water in which it was boiled. A nice flavor is given 
the tongue by boiling with it a bunch sweet herbs, dozen cloves, blade 
of mace, and a red pepper or teaspoon pepper-corns, and some add 
a little vinegar. The same amount of salt will do for three tongues 
if the pot is large enough to hold them, always remembering to keep 
sufficient water in the kettle to cover all while boiling. Soak salt 
tongue overnight, put on in cold water and cook in same way, omit- 
ting the salt. Or, after peeling, place the tongue in saucepan with 
one cup water, half cup vinegar, four tablespoons sugar, and cook 
till liquor is evaporated. Serve garnished with tufts of cauliflower 
or brussels sprouts. The tongue may be trussed while hot in the 
form of an arch, by putting it to press on its side between two dishes 
with a weight on top, and when cold trim it smooth, or with a small, 

sharp knife carve the surface so 
as to represent leaves. Or place it 
with the root end against the back 
of dresser, and put a strong fork 
in top of tongue ; this will make it 
assume an erect and nice appear- 
ance. Let it get quite cold, glaze 
it, ornament with a paper ruff and 
a vegetable flower, and garnish with aspic jelly. If hot serve with 
spinach. Boiled tongue is nice served with Polish Sauce made as 
follows : Skin the tongue while hot and put in another pan with slices 
of pork, an onion, sliced carrots, spices and a calf's foot. Stew till 
brown, dust with little flour, and thin the gravy or sauce with a cup 
vinegar. Boil a few moments, take out tongue, strain sauce and add 




494 MEATS. 

two ounces each currants and whole almonds, blanched, and 
pour over the tongue. Another way of preparing is to half 
boil the tongue and then stew it in a sauce made of a little broth, 
flour, parsle3^ one small onion, small carrot, salt and pepper and one 
can tomatoes^cooked and strained. Dish the tongue and strain the 
sauce over it. Or pour over the tongue a sauce made of a can of 
tomatoes half boiled down, salted, and thickened with a tablespoon 
butter and teaspoon flour rubbed together. Fried Tongue is very 
nice ; first boil, then cut into slices and fry in hot butter with a lit- 
tle minced onion, and serve with a PicMe Sauce made as follows : 
Put a teaspoon flour in pan in which tongue was fried and when 
brown add cup hot water ; strain, season Vv^ith salt and pepper and 
add a tablespoon any chopped pickles — piccalilli is best, but ])ickled 
cucumbers may be used by chopping and mixing Avith a little mus- 
tard. Soak the slices of tongue in this till ready to serve, when 
arrange on a platter overlapping one another and pour the sauce 
over. Or braise the slices of tongue and serve with a little spinach 
on each, or with a mayonnaise or tartare sauce. 

Braised Tongue. — Wash a fresh beef tongue, and with a truss- 
ing needle run a strong twine through the roots and end of it, draw- 
ing tightly enough to have the end meet the roots, and tie firmly. 
Cover with boiling water, and boil gently two hours ; then take up 
and drain. Roll in flour and braise as Braised Beef. When it 
has been cooking an hour and a half add the juice of half a lemon 
to the gravy. When done, take up, melt two tablespoons glaze and 
pour over the tongue, and place in the heater until the gravy is made. 
Mix one tablespoon corn-starch Avith a little cold water, and stir into 
the boiling gravy, of which there should be one pint. Boil one 
minute, then strain, and pour around the tongue. Garnish wath 
parsley, and serve. Another nice dish is made by braising an ox 
tongue, then cut into thick slices, cover them with slices of bacon 
sprinkled with chopped herbs ; wrap carefully in oiled sheets of 
paper so that no gravy may escape, and broil. They will be done 
in a few moments. 

Pickled Tongue. — Procure ten small tongues, wash in cold 
water and put to cook in boiling water, with a sliced lemon, table- 
spoon salt and teaspoon whole cloves and pepper-corns : keep cov- 
ered with boiling Avater, and boil gently until tender, Avhich will be 
in half or three-quarters of an hour. When tongues are done take 
them up, trim them, remove the skin and pack in glass jars, with a 
tablespoon eacliAvhole cloves and pepper-corns, and a blade of mace ; 
cover Avith cold vinegar, and let stand OA'ernight before using, or 
longer if desired. In cool AA^eather they will keep several weeks if 
kept closely coA^ered. Any tongue may be pickled same. The re- 
mains of pickled tongues are A^ery nice chopped, placed in a pan and 
pressed, Avhen they will turn out resembling collared meat. A little 



MEATS 495 

thick jelly may be poured into the pan with them. Slices of cold 
tongue may be warmed in any kind of savory sauce and laid in a 
pile in center of a dish, the sauce being poured over them. 

Potted Tongue. — Boil tongue three hours, if a beef's tongue, or 
until tender. Dip into cold water and peel off the skin ; mince fine 
and pound to a paste. To each pint paste add tablespoon butter, 
teaspoon mixed mustard, ground spices to taste, half mace, the rest 
cloves, nutmeg and cayenne, and a little salt. Pound all together, 
and place closely in a small jar, pouring melted butter on top. Some 
set in oven in pan of hot water and bake half an hour, then cover 
with the butter, tie down and put in cold place. For Tongue Toast^ 
make thin slices of toast, shape and spread thinly with butter, then 
with a layer of potted tongue and set in oven with door open a few 
minutes. 

Scalloped Tongue. — For each pint cold chopped tongue (not 
too fine) take one cup bread-crumbs, half cup stock, three table- 
spoons butter and seasoning of one teaspoon each salt, chopped 
parsley and capers and a tablespoon onion juice. Butter baking 
dish and cover bottom with crumbs, put in the tongue with the 
seasonings, except the onion juice, which is mixed with the stock 
and poured over ; put in some of the butter, Cover with the remain- 
der of the bread-crumbs, put bits of butter over, bake about twenty 
minutes and serve hot. 

Stewed Tongue. — Take six tongues of either sheep or lambs, 
three heaping tablespoons butter, one large onion, tw^o slices carrot, 
three slices white turnip, three tablespoons flour, one of salt, a little 
pepper, one quart stock or water and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil 
the tongues an hour and a half in clear water; then take up, cover 
with cold water, and draw off skins. Put the butter, onion, turnip 
and carrot in the stewpan, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes ; 
then add the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while. Stir 
the stock into this, and when it boils, add the tongue, salt, pep- 
per and herbs. Simmer gently two hours. Place the tongues in center 
of dish, arrange vegetables arouiid them and strain the gravy over 
all. Garnish with parsley, or with fried bread cut in diamonds or 
other fancy shapes. Or after skinning the tongues place a plate and 
weight on them to flatten them, glaze them, if liked, arrange in a 
circle around a dish of spinach or mashed potato, or serve with a 
Mayonnaise or tartare sauce in center. Or the tongues may first 
be braised with a little salt pork, an onion, parsley and whole pep- 
pers, then stewed until tender and served as above. If a beef tongue 
is cooked thus, serve with spinach as a border. Season the spinach 
with lemon juice, a little of the tongue stock, cayenne pepper, salt 
and butter. For Larded Tongue^ lard the tongue with square 
fillets of bacon, which have been dredged with chopped parsley, salt, 
pepper and a little allspice ; put it in saucepan on a bed of vegetables 



496 MEATS. 

with slices of fat pork ; add half pint water or broth and two table- 
spoons vinegar ; set on a moderate fire and simmer about five hours, 
keeping Avell covered. Put the tongue on a dish and strain the 
sauce over it. 

Fillets of Tongue. — Cut cold boiled tongue in fillets or pieces 
about four inches long, two wide, and half an inch thick. Dip in 
melted butter and roll in flour. For eight pieces put two table- 
spoons butter in frying-pan, and when very hot put in the tongue, 
brown on both^sides, but do not allow to burn. Take up, add table- 
spoon more butter and teaspoon flour, stir till ari(di brown, and add 
cup stock, half teaspoon parsley and tablespoon lemon juice. Boil 
up once and pour over the tongue, which should be dished on 
thin strips of toast. Garnish with parsley and serve. A tablespoon 
chopped pickles or capers may be stirred through the sauce just be- 
fore serving, if liked. 

Tongue in Jellg. — Boil and skin either a fresh or salt tongue ; 
when cold trim off the roots. Have one and a fourth quarts aspic 
jelly in liquid state. Cover bottom of two-qua.rt mold about an inch 
deep with it, and let harden. Cut out leaves from cooked beets with 
a fancy vegetable cutter, and garnish bottom of mold with them ; 
gently pour in three ta-blespoons jelly, to set the beets. When hard, 
add jelly enough to cover the vegetables, and 
let the whole get very hard. Then put in the 
tongue, and about half a cup jelly, which should 

be allowed to harden, and so keep the meat in 

Large Mold. placc wheu thc remainder is added. Pour in 

the remainder of the jelly and set away to harden. When ready to^ 
serve, dip the mould for a few moments in pan of warm water, and 
gently turn on to a dish. Rings of the white of boiled eggs may be 
used with or in place of the cooked beets. Garnish with pickles and 
parsley ; pickled beet is especially nice. For Lambs' Tongues in 
Jelly, prepare the same as beef tongues. Three or four molds, each 
holding a little less than a pint, will make enough for a small com- 
pany, one tongue being put in each mold. The tongues can all be 
put on the same dish, or on two, if table is long. Or boil a beef's 
tongue and let it get cold. For the jelly mix pint liquor in which 
tongue was boiled with cup brown veal gravy, three tablespoons 
vinegar, one of sugar and one of Caramel Coloring ; add two ounces 
gelatine dissolved in half pint water, mix well, pour over all a pint 
boiling water and strain through flannel. Let the jelly cool until 
it begins to thicken, then cut the tongue in slices as for table, put a 
little jelly in bottom of wet mold, then a layer of tongue, more jelly 
and so on until mold is full, and finish as above; serve garnished 
with sprigs of celery or nasturtium flowers. 

Baked Tripe. — When buying tripe get the honey-combed ; if 
prepared at home observe directions in Cutting and Curing Meats. 




MEATS. 



497 



Take two pounds boiled tripe cut in small, irregular pieces, and put 
a layer, a half inch deep, in bottom of deep dish. Sprinkle over this 
a layer of bread-crumbs and a little pepper and salt, and coritinue 
alternating layers of tripe, seasoning, and bread-crumbs until the 
dish is full, leaving a layer bread-crumbs on top. Add two well- 
beaten eggs to half pint liquor in which tripe was boiled, stir togeth- 
«er and pour the mixture over the tripe and bread-crumbs in dish. 
Place in moderate oven and bake half an hour. Serve in dish in 
which it is baked. 

Broiled Ti-ipe.— Cut honey-combed tripe into pieces of three or 
four inches wide ; rub a little oil or melted butter over them, roll in 
flour, and broil over a charcoal or wood fire, squeeze a little lemon 
iuice over each piece and serve. Never broil tripe over a hard-coal 
"fire, the gasses arising from the coal spoil the flavor of the tripe, 
making it indigestible and unpalatable. 

Fricasseed Tripe. — Cut the tripe into square pieces and put in 
stewpan with a blade of mace, bouquet of herbs, an onion quartered, 
salt and cavenne. Cover with water and a little vinegar and stew 
one hour. "^ Strain the sauce and put tripe and sauce in a clean 
saucepan, Avith a tablespoon of butter rolled in flour, a gill creani and 
tablespoon chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, squeeze in juice 
of a lemon, and serve. Or cut in narrow strips, add water or milk, 
tablespoon butter mixed with one of flour, season with pepper and a 
little salt, simmer slowly for some time, and serve hot garnished 
with parsley. 

Fried Tripe. — Cut in square pieces, dredge with flour, or dip in 
egg and cracker crumbs and fry in hot butter, or other fat, until a 
dehcate brown on both sides ; lay it on a dish, add vinegar to the 
gravy, and pour over the tripe; or the vinegar may be omitted, and 
the gravy added, or the tripe maj be served without vinegar or 
gravy. Or make a batter by mixing gradually one cup flour with 
one of sweet milk, adding a well-beaten egg and a little salt ; drain 
the tripe, dip in batter, and fry in hot drippings or lard. 

PicJiied Tripe.— After the tripe has been thoroughly cleaned 
put in salt and water overnight. In the morning boil till tender, let 
cool, cut in small pieces and lay in stone jar. On the top put some 
allspice and bay leaves, cover with vinegar, and set in cool place till 
wanted. 

Soused Tripe.— Tlace in a stone jar in layers, seasoning every 
layer with pepper and salt, and pour over boiling vinegar, in which, 
if" desired, a few whole cloves, a sprinkle of mape, and a stick of 
cinnamon have been boiled; or cover with the jelly or liquor in 
which the tripe was boiled. When wanted for table, take out of jar, 
scrape off the liquid, and either broil, fricassee, fry in batter, or fry 
plainly. 



498 MEATS, 

Stewed Tripe. — Carefally clean two pounds tripe, cut in small 
strips of even size, wash in cold water, and dry in a clean towel ; chop 
a medium-sized clove of garlic very fine, put it over the fire in a gill 
of good salad oil, and when the oil hegins to smoke, put in the tripe 
and brown it ; while the tripe is browning, peel and slice a quart of 
tomatoes, and when it is brown add them to it ; season to taste with 
salt and red pepper, cover closely, and cook gently two hours. Serve 
hot. Butter may be substituted for the oil, and a chopped onion for 
the garlic. The addition of a tablespoon chopped parsley improves 
it for some. This is also called Creoled Tripe. For Tripe Lyon- 
Qiaise, cut one pound cooked tripe in small pieces, brown two table- 
spoons butter, add tablespoon each chopped onion and lemon juice, 
with salt and pepper to taste, and when the whole is brown, put in 
the pieces of tripe. Cook five minutes and serve on neatly shaped 
slices of toast. For Tripe untk Onion Sauce, cut two pounds boiled 
tripe into small, irregular pieces ; put in a stewpan, cover with milk 
and stew over slow fire half an hour. Boil an onion half an hour, 
take out, drain well aud chop fine. When the tripe is done stir in 
chopped onion, seasop well with butter, pepper and salt, adding a 
little thickening of flour if liked, and serve at once. 

Braised Lamh. — Remove bones from breast, season with salt 
and pepper, then roll up and tie with twine and cook as in Braised 
Beef. To serve remove the twine, skim fat from gravy, boil up 
strain and pour over the meat, or serve with tomato or bechamel 
sauce. For Braised Loin of Lamh. bone the loin and line bottom 
of stewpan just large enough to hold it with a few thin slices of 
bacon, add vegetables and braise as al)ove. When done take up the 
meat, dry it and place where it will keep hot. Strain and reduce 
the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat and serve it on 
stewed pease, or spinach or stewed cucumbers. Braised Shoulder of 
Lamh is nice if first larded with strips of fat bacon, highly seasoned 
with peper, salt and chopped parsley (see directions for larding) ; 
then roll the meat round, tie it up and put in stewpan with a quarter 
pound butter, over slow fire, stirring occasionally until a light golden 
color ; pour in a quart water or broth, add two dozen small onions 
and a bunch of parsley, and simmer very slowly until the onions are 
quite tender ; take up the meat, pull off the string, and place it on 
a dish with the onions round ; take the parsley out, carefully skim 
off all fat, and boil the liquor until a.thinnish glaze, which pour over 
the meat and serve. Mushrooms ma}^ be added ten minutes before 
sending to table, if liked. The cavity from which the bone is re- 
moved may be filled with force-meat, if preferred, instead of rolling 
nnd binding the meat. Braised Mutton is cooked as any of the 
above. 

Grilled Lamh. — Boil the loin half an hour, fhen take out and 
score, brush over with beaten yolks of eggs and sprinkle well with 



MEATS. 



499 



bread-crumbs seasoned with chopped parsley ; put in dripping-pan 
and place in oven until brown ; serve hot with melted butter and 
lemon pickle, or tomato sauce, or cold with the sauce. A breast 
may be done same, and Grilled Mutton is also prepared in same 
manner. 

Roast ZamK—The loin, forequarter and leg are all very nice 
roasted. Prepare and roast as directed m Roasted Meats, a medium 
sized forequarter requiring about two hours. Lamb must be basted 
constantly and thoroughly cooked without being dried up. Some 
brush clarifiedbutteroverthe joint, then sprinkle with bread-crumbs 
seasoned with pepper, salt aiid a little minced parsley, and cover 
with slices of bacon, held in place by skewers. When nearly done 
remove bacon and baste with beaten yolk of egg mixed with gravy, 
sprinkle over more crumbs and let brown. If liked, squeeze juice of 
a lemon over and serve with mint sauce. For a nice Boast Leg of 
Lainh, run a sharp, thin-bladed knife between the skin and flesh 
where the leg is thickest in such a manner as to form a pouch, and 
into this put the flesh of a small red herring, and a small clove of 
garlic, highly seasoned with pepper and pounded to a paste, forcing 
it as far as possible under the skin, then roast as in general directions 
Or the bone may be removed and the cavity filled with a common 
veal stuffing or any bread dressing or force-meat liked. Tomatoes 
are sometimes baked in the pan with lamb and served with it. A 
Boast Saddle of Lanib is a very dainty dish for a small party. Put 
in dripping-pan, with a few small pieces of butter on the meat, and 
baste occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat; season with salt and pep- 
per and dredge a little flour over it a few minutes before taking from 
the oven. Serve with currant jelly, and send to table with early 
vegetables. A mild mint sauce may be served with the joint Pota- 
to balls, seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, single-breaded 
and fried, make a nice garnish for the roast, surrounding with them, 
with a drawn butter sauce poured over the meat. Pease, spinach and 
cauliflower are served with roast lamb, also fresh salads. Another 
nice roast is called Carhonade of Lamb. For this select a loin 
weighing three pound.s or more and have butcher skm and take :~.ut 
bone, keeping bone for use in pan or to boil for broth. Make & 
force-meat of a slice of bread soaked in cold water and squeezed dry, 
level teaspoon any powdered sweet herb, thyme, marjoiam or sum- 
mer savory, saltspoon salt, pinch of pepper, tablespoon butter, «r 
raw egg, and a little chopped onion if liked ; mix well together and 
place in bone cavity and sew up. Roast in Dutch oven or Dake in 
ordinary oven. When brown on one side turn to brown the other, 
then season, dredge with dry flour and baste every ten or fifteen 
minutes. For gravy, mix a tablespoon flour with drippings in pan, 
let brown and turn 'in slowly a pint water, seasoning to taste. Some 
cooks serve roast lamb rather rare, or well done on the outside and 
pink within \ it should be served steaming hot with a caper, pickle. 



500 MEATS. 

or mint sauce. If carved through the center it may be nicely served 
again next day by stuffing the cut-out space with boiled mashed 
potatoes, smoothing evenly around, and placing long enough in oven 
to become thoroughly hot. Lamb is sometimes roastetl entirely 
whole, simply skinned, the entrails removed and feet cut otT. It should 
be not more than six weeks or two months old, when the bones cut 
like gristle and the meat is singularly delicate. It may be stuffed 
Avith bread dressing and sweet herbs and served with bread sauce, 
but is more frequently eaten with lemon juice. When the lamb is 
older, to roast whole, bone from the neck to the shoulders, skewer 
the legs to the body, and cover with slices of bacon, which may be 
tied or skewered on, but must be removed when meat is nearly done 
that it may be basted and browned nicely. Roast Mutton may be 
prepared iu any of above ways. 

Stewed Lamh. — Cut the neck or breast in pieces and put it in a 
stewpan with salt pork or bacon sliced thin, and enough water or 
stock to cover; cover closely and stew until meat is tender, then 
skim well, add a quart green shelled peas, and more hot water or 
stock if necessary ; cover till peas are tender, then add a bit of but- 
ter rolled in flour, and pepper to taste ; simmer a few minutes and 
serve. For another nice IStew with Green Peas, leave the breast of 
lamb whole, simply removing the skin ; put the breast in pan of hot 
water alid leave five minutes, line bottom of steAvpan with thin slices 
of bacon, put in the lamb and lay on it a lemon cut in slices, to keep 
meat Avhite and make it tender ; cover Avith one or tAvo slices of 
bacon, add a half pint Avhite stock, an onion and a bunch savory 
herbs. Stew gently OA-er sIoav fire until tender, and serA^e on a bed 
of green peas, cooked separately. The lamb may be glazed and 
spinach substituted for peas if preferred, or it may be served on a 
bed of stcAved mushrooms. Or first fry either the breast or leg in 
butter or drippings until a nice broAvn, and add water or stock to 
cover with seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer three-quarters of 
an hour and add ahalf peck green peas. Cook until peas are done, 
dust in a very little flour and serve hot with peas as a border. For 
Stewed Lamb loltli Tomatoes, saw the breast or brisket lengthAvise 
through the bones ; then skin, divide in pieces, Avash and put to stew 
in Avater or broth to cover, cut carrots, turnips and onions (enough 
to fill a cup) in dice, and boil in Avater separately ; pour off water 
Avhen they are half done and put them in the stcAV Avith a cup cut 
tomatoes. Boil half an hour longer, thicken slightly if necessary, 
season Avith pepper and salt and last add ata'blespoon chopped pars- 
ley. In dishing up take up two pieces of meat for each dish and 
place in middle of individual flat platter with A'egetables and 
sauce or gravy from stew at each end. Stewed Lamb loith As- 
paragus is also nice. RemoA^e skin and part of fat from the breast 
or shoulder and cut it into neat pieces ; dredge a little flour over and 
place in steAvpan with tablespoon butter and fry till nicely browned j 



MEATS. 501 

then cover with warm water, add a bunch parsley, two button onions 
and simmer until meat is done ; skim off fat, take out onions and 
parsley, mince the latter finely, return it to the gravy with a pint of 
of boiled asparagus tops, add salt and pepper, simmer a few minutes 
longer and serve. Cnnned asparagus may be used. A plain stew 
of lamb is nice, first fried as aljove, cooked without vegetables, and 
served .with its own gravy poured over, flavored with four tablespoons 
tomato catsup, or served with mint sauce. When the leg or shoul- 
der is stewed the bone may be removed and the cavity stuffed with 
any force-meat preferred. The loin may be stewed whole or in 
steaks ; when stewed whole secure the flap with a skewer. Stewed 
Mutton, is prepared in any of above ways. 

Larrib Chops. — Trim off the fat from a loin of lamb, cut into chops 
about three-fouiths inch in thickness, and for Broiled Lamb Ghops 
proceed as directed in Broiled Meats, remembering that they require 
little cooking and must be done very quickly. Season with pepper and 
ealt and serve immediately, very hot, garnished with crisped parsley ; 
or dish them in a circle round green pease or a mound of mashed po- 
tatoes. Asparagus, spinach, cauliflower and beans are also served 
with lamb or mutton chops, and stuffed baked 
tomatoes are nice with them. When chops are cut 

_ from the loin as above,some like to have the kidney 

"ta^Tcbo^ ^^'^ retained in its place. When chops are made 
from breast the red bone at the edge should be cut off, and the breast 
parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three 
onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting 
between every second or third bone. Many prefer to single-bread 
lamb chops before broiling, and after dipping in egg some season 
with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley. 
For Fried Lamb Chops^ choose cutlets or chops about half an 
inch thick and fry in a mixture of butter and currant jelly, half and 
half — two tablespoons of each to four cutlets — turning to brown 
both sides. Season highly with salt and pepper and serve on hot 
platter with the gravy from pan poured over. Or fry plainly by 
putting in hot frying-pan, turning quickly to brown both sides and 
keep in the juices, then fry until done. Season just before taking 
up and serve on hot dish with a gravy made in pan, flavored with 
mushroom or tomato catsup, poured over. Or double-bread them 
and fry, though some only single-bread cutlets, adding to the sifted 
crumbs a seasoning of pepper and salt and a little chopped parsley 
or onion and grated lemon peel and pounded mace, if liked. Or first 
sear them quickly on each side in frying-pan, then single-bread and 
fry or broil. They may be fried in little butter or drippings, but are 
muchnicer if dropped into hot fat. Some do not use egg in breading cut- 
lets but dip them into melted butter or kettle of fat, and roll in crumbs, 
then fry as Fritters, Dish as Broiled Chops, and serve with clear 
red currantjelly or mushi-oom, onion or tomato sauce. Fried toma- 




602 ORNAMENTAL ICES. 



toes (see Vegetables) are nice with cutlets. Serve tomatoes in cen- 
ter of dish with cutlets in circle round, or arranged at either end. Or 
after the chops have been plainly fried, dip them up to the bones in 
stiff Avhite sauce well flavored with mushrooms and set in cool place 
or on ice until the sauce hardens ; then single-bread them and fry 
in hot fat. Or mix six tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese with 
two tablespoons white sauce, thoroughly coat the chops with this, 
first fried plainly as above, then double-egg-bread them, and drop in 
hot fat until a nice golden brown. Dish in a circle and garnish 
with fried parsley. Mutton Cutlets and Chops are cooked after any of 
above methods. Serve in a circle with stewed pease in center. 

Lanib Fricassee. — Cut a breast of lamb into pieces about an 
inch and a half square ; season with salt and pepper and put in sauce- 
pan with a quartered onion, three cloves, a bay-leaf, and three table- 
spoons butter. Cover closely, and steam gently half an hour, shak- 
ing occasionally to prevent sticking. Add a pint boiling water, 
cover closely and boil gently one hour ; then strain the sauce and 
thicken with a tablespoon of flour, mixed smooth with a little cold 
water, boil a moment longer and serve. A tablespoon very small 
capers may be added before serving. 

Boiled Mutton. — Mutton can be cooked like any of the pre- 
ceeding recipes for lamb, and the latter can algo be cooked like any 
of the following recipes for mutton. The leg and shoulder are most 
used for boiling. To prepare Boiled Leg of Mutton cut off the 
shank bone, trim the knuckle, wash well and be sure to remove the 
thin outside skin. The oil of the wool penetrates through the pores 
of the skin, and from this comes that strong, woolly taste, rendering 
mutton so objectionable. Then, if wanted plainly boiled, cook as 
directed in Boiled Meats, letting the w-ater boil down to gravy. A 
leg weighing eight or nine pounds will cook in an hour and a quar- 
ter, if wanted very rare, allowing five minutes for- every additional 
pound. Two hours or more will be required to cook it well done. 
Serve with caper, cucumber or mint sauce, or currant jelly. Some 
first soak the leg an hour or two in salted water, then wipe dry, wrap 
the flank nicely round, securing it with skewers, and boil in a floured 
cloth. The greatest care must be exercised that the mutton does not 
cook too rapidly after first plunging in boiling water, after which it 
must only simmer gently till done. Carrots and mashed turnips 
may be 'served with this dish, and may be boiled with the meat. 
Very young turnips may be boiled whole and used as a garnish. 
Mashed potatoes and greens are also served Avith it and boiled rice 
or hominy are liked with it by some. The liquor the joint is boiled 
in should be made into soup. The leg may be boned and stuffed 
with any dressing preferred, then cooked as above. Or parboil 
some nice plump oysters, take off beards and add to them some 
parsley, minced onion, and sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and 



MEATS. 503 

the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Mix all together, and 
cut five or six holes in fleshy part of a leg of mutton, and put in the 
mixture. Tie in a cloth and boil as above, or braise it and serve 
with any sauce liked. Boiled Shoulder of Mutton, considered by 
many superior to the leg, may be cooked after any of the above 
methods. For Boiled Breast of Mutton, cut all superfluous fat 
from the breast, bone it, sprinkle over a layer of bread-crumbs, 
minced herbs and seasoning; roll, bind firmly with tape, and cook 
and serve as above, removing tape when dished. Boiled Neck of 
Mutton is a very good dish when carefully prepared, though gener- 
ally used for soup. It may be plainly boiled with carrots and tur- 
nips and garnished with them, or boil slowly until tender, then take 
out, cover with sifted bread-crumbs, well seasoned and moistened 
with milk and the yolk of an egg, flavored with finely chopped sweet 
herbs, and set in oven to brown nicely. Serve with either of above 
sauces and accompaniments. The breast may be dressed in same 
manner, adding chopped mushrooms to dressing if liked. Boiled 
Lanib is prepared in same way, generally serving with mint sauce. 

Boned Mutton. — Cut off all fat from leg of mutton, take the 
bone out carefully, and preserve the skin whole ; take out meat and 
mince it fine, and mix Avith it about one pound minced fat bacon 
and some parsley; season the whole well with pepper and salt, and 
a small quantity of onions chopped fine ; then put meat into skin 
and sew it up neatly on under side ; tie it up in a cloth and put it 
into stewpan with two or three slices of veal, some sliced carrots and 
onions, a bunch of parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon ; let it stew 
for three or four hours, and drain the liquor through a fine sieve ; 
when reduced to a glaze, cover the mutton with it and serve upon a 
bed of rice. 

Curried Mutton. — Put breast of. mutton in stewpan with two 
quarts Avatcr, season with salt and pepper, and simmer slowly an 
hour and a half. Cut an onion in slices and brown it nicely in but- 
ter, add teaspoon curry powder and little salt. Take meat out of 
broth, stir the curry through, put the meat back, and stew an hour 
longer. Dish, and pour gravy over. If it is not thick enough, thicken 
with browned flour and let it boil a minute before putting it over 
meat. Curried Lanib is prepared same way. 

Haricot Mutton. — Trim off some of the fat from four pounds 
of the middle or best end of the neck, cut into rather thin chops, 
and put in frying pan with the fat trimmings. Fry pale brown, but 
do not cook enough for eating. Cut three carrots and three turnips 
into dice, three onions into slices, and slightly fry them in fat mut- 
ton was browned in, but do not color them. Lay the mutton in bot- 
tom of stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour over boiling water to 
just coyej:. Give one boil, skim well, and then simmer gently until 
meat is tender. Skim off every particle of fat, add a seasoning of 



504 MEATS. 

pepper and salt, and a little catsup, and serve. This dish is very 
much better if made the day before wanted for table, as the fat can 
be so much more easily removed when gravy is cold. This should 
be particularly attended to, as it is apt to be too rich and greasy 
if eaten the same day it is made. Serve in rather deep dish. Or, cut 
mutton into square pieces, and fry a nice brown ; dredge over a little 
flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Put into a stewpan, 
moisten with boiling water and add an onion, stuck with three 
cloves, a blade of mace and bunch sweet herbs, simmer gently till 
meat is nearly done, skim off all fat, and then add carrots and tur- 
nips, previously cut in dice and fried in a little sugar to color them. 
Let the whole simmer again ten minutes, take out the onion and 
bunch of herbs, and serve. 

Roast Mutton. — The leg, saddle, loin and shoulder are the best 
pieces for roasting. Haw the butcher trim nicely, prepare as for 
Boiled Mutton, and to roast plainly follow directions given in Roast- 
ed Meats. Some cover the joint with buttered paper, which is taken 
off about twenty minutes before roast is done to baste, dredge and 
brown the meat. Serve with its own gravy and red currant jelly and 
mashed })otatoes, or with onion sauce or stewed onions. It there is 
a large flap to loin ])ut in some of the dressing and skewer securely, 
then bake and serve as above. Some yi^f^ ^.^-.-.:^.^^y rrrr<^-rrrr'='2s^:,-'-^ 
roast a Saddle of Mutton as Veni- S*^: ^^ ^:^^^^\ 
son, in a coarse paste, taking off to mi-;;;;^ :''^ '^^^^tX 
baste and brown a few minutes be- _^iii/(' :: ^^ ■,.|iili3^^ 
fore done. Or roast plainly as above. ^^ta|fei^^^^nN,,s 
Garnish with little piles of potato ^'^^^^ ^^J^^^^^ ^^^^^Mf 
balls and tufts of lettuce or any ^^■•^=^^:::^------^^^-}]^^^ 

green leaves. Some cooks roast the saddle of Mutwn. 

neck, cutting the bones off short and trimming nicely. For Boast 
Leg of Mutton, take the flank off, but leave all the fat, cut out the 
bone, stuff with a rich force-meat, lard the top and sides with bacon, 
and put it in a pan with a little water, some chopped onion and cel- 
ery cut small, a gill of mushroom catsup and a teaspoon curry pow- 
der; roast and serve as above with the gravy, garnished with force- 
meat balls, fried. For Roast Shoulder of Mutton, h.a\e the shoul- 
der boned and fill cavity with a nice bread dressing or force-meat. 
Then roll, tie loosely, giving the dressing room to swell, place in 
oven in pan with 'little butter, baste often, turn occasionally to 
brown evenly and serve with its ov/n gravy and any of the above 
garnishes. To finisli any roast very handsomely, brush over with 
glaze, following directions given for Glaze in Gravies. 

Rolled Mutton. — Cover the meat with cold water and when it 
begins to boil draw to back of stove and simmer three hours. Then 
take up, bone it and spread with a force-meat of bread-crutnbs, pars- 
ley, thyme, chopped suet, salt and pepper ; double or roll it, skew- 



MEATS. 505 

ering to keep in place, coat thickly with beaten egg and bread- 
crumbs and bake on a trivet in moderate oven, basting often with 
drippings or butter, until nicely browned. Serve on a bed of spin- 
ach or stewed onions. Equal to most tender joint of lamb. 

Sieiced Mutton. — The breast, neck and shoulder pieces are most 
used for stewing. For an Irish Stew procure three pounds neck of 
mutton and cut in neat pieces. Put about half the fat in stewpan, 
with four sliced onions, and stir for eight or ten minutes over a hot 
fire ; then put in the meat, which sprinkle with flour, salt and 
pepper. Stir ten minutes, add two quarts boiling water, and simmer 
one hour ; then add six large potatoes, peeled, and cut in quarters, 
"simmer an hour longer, and serve. Cook dumplings with this dish, 
if liked. They are a great addition to all kinds of stews and ragouts. 
Or the meat may be cut into small pieces and put in stewpan in 
layers with the sliced onions and potatoes, with salt and pepper 
sprinkled between the layers, and vegetables on top. Cover closely 
and stew gently an hour or more, being careful that it does not 
burn. For Steuied Breast of Mutton take a rather lean breast cut in 
pieces about two inches square, put into stewpan with a little fat or 
butter, and fry a nice brown ; then dredge in a little flour, slice two 
onions, and put with bunch of herbs in the stewpan ; pour in sufficient 
water to just cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until 
mutton is tender. Take out meat, strain and skim off all fat from 
gravy, and put both meat and gravy back in stewpan ; add about a 
quart young green pease, and let boil gently until done. Two or three 
slices of bacon stewed with the mutton give additional flavor; and 
to ensure the pease being a beautiful green color, they may he boiled 
in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment of serving. 
String beans or boiled macaroni may be substituted for the pease. 
For Stewed Shoulder of Mutton, first parboil, then put it in stewpan 
with two quarts mutton gravy, quarter pound rice, teaspoon mush- 
room powder, with a little pounded mace, and stew till the rice is 
tender; take up mutton and keep hot; add to the rice half pint 
cream and piece of butter rolled in flour ; stir it well round the pan, 
and boil a few minutes ; lay mulion in dish, and pour the rice over 
it. For Stewed Loin, of Mutton, remove the skin, bone and roll it, 
and stew with a little broth or water, adding any vegetables or 
seasoning liked. Some sprinkle the loin with a mixture of half tea- 
spoon pepper, quarter teaspoon each ground allspice, mace and nut- 
meg and six cloves, and let it stand a day then roll ; or it may be 
spread with a veal or other force-meat, then rolled. Some prefer to 
half bake it in the oven, then take out and finish cooking in stewpan 
in its own gravy. Flavor with two tablespoons mushroom catsup 
and serve with red currant jelly. Stewed Leg of Mutton is a dish 
liked by many. Procure a tender leg, take oiff outside fat and skin 
and lard leg with pieces of fat pork. Put the leg in saucepan vvith 
some small onions and two yellow turnips, sliced, one bay leaf, a 




506 MEATS. 

calf's foot cut in two, and a pint good beef broth ; let all cook to- 
gether until grav}^ will jelly. In -another saucepan put two table- 
spoons beef drippings, brown the stewed onions and turnips in this, 
thicken with flour, and add rest of mutton broth. Put in a little 
vinegar and lemon peel, and let all cook well ; strain through a 
sieve ;_ cut six pickled cucumbers through sauce and cook. Put the 
meat in sauce and cook all together a few moments. Pour the gravy 
over the meat and serve hot. 

Mutton Chops. — The best chops are taken from the loin, but 
those from the ribs are also excellent. Cuts from the fillet, the cen- 
ter cut of the hind leg, are called cutlets or steaks, while those from_ 
the shoulder are known as shoulder steaks. All may be prepared " 
and cooked as follows: Take off the skin and trim them neatly, 
removing^ part of the fat, and broil as directed in Broiled Meats, 
either plainly or breaded. If on a gridiron or flat broiler must be 
turned often. The bread-crumbs should be salted and peppered and 
may be seasoned with any chopped or powdered herbs liked; a 
sprinkling of grated lemon peel or powdered mace 
gives a flavor liked by many. Serve with a bit of 
_^^^^__^________ butter on each, neatl}'' arranged in a circle around 

Mutton Chops. ^ a mound of mashed potatoes, with currant jelly, or 
mushroom, onion or tomato sauce. Some first half fry or stew the 
chops, with any seasoning liked, and when cool bread them and 
finish by broiling, either plainly, or by wrapping them in buttered 
paper. They are very nice fried with minced herbs and mushrooms, 
then broiled. Serve with a tablespoon red currant jelly, mushroom 
catsup or any suitable sauce on each. Instead of broiling after 
covering with the seasoning and bread-crumbs, when chops are first 
half fried, some put them in the buttered paper and finish by setting 
in the oven in dripping pan until done. 

Masked Mutton (Jhops. — Trim off all the fat from five chops 
from the back rib and leave a half inch of the bone of each bare at 
the top. Put in frying-pan and slice over them a carrot, turnip, 
onion and some celery, sprinkling «^ith pepper and salt. Pour over 
all a gill of stock and cook twenty minutes over slow fire, turning 
the cutlets that they may cook through evenly. While cooking, rub 
a pint mashed potato through a sieve and put in a saucepan, drop 
in yolks of two eggs, and stir over the fire until well mixed. When 
chops are ready, roll each in potatoes so prepared and flattened with 
a knife upon a mixing-board to a quarter of an inch thick, leaving 
the bone bare as a handle. Place all upon a lightly greased baking- 
tin, brush over with a little milk or egg, and brown in very quick 
oven. While they are browning, .heat a tablespoon butter, and add 
half tablespoon flour; when smooth add one and one-half gills cold 
water and stir all until boiling. Add half tablespoon each catsup, 
Worcestershire sauce and six drops caramel and cook two minutes. 



MEATS. 507 

Arrange them in a circle upon a hot platter, with a pint boiled green 
pease in center, and strain the brown sauce around the whole. In 
preparing the potato, a little flour should be sprinkled over the 
board to prevent sticking. If the oven should not be hot enough to 
brown the chops quickly^ hold a hot salamander or fire shovel over 
them, as leaving them long in the oven dries out the potatoes and so 
spoils the dish. 

Mutton Hot-pot. — Peel about two pounds potatoes, put in cold 
water and bring to boiling point, then take out and slice enough to 
cover bottom of good-sized vegetable dish ; cut one and a half 
pounds lean mutton into small pieces and roll each in a mixture of 
flour, pepper, salt and nutmeg, and put in dish in layers alternating 
with layers of potato until level with top of dish. Cut the potatoes 
left whole into halves and place over top, round sides up and brush 
over with melted butter, Pour a tablespoon catsup and half pint 
cold water in at side of dish and bake in moderate oven an hour and 
a half. 

Mutton Pie. — Cut two pounds boned neck or loin of mutton 
into steaks of same thickness, leaving very little fat, cut up two kid- 
neys an'd arrange neatly with meat in pie dish ; sprinkle two table- 
spoons chopped parsley over with pepper and salt ; pour in two 
cups stock, or water, and cover with a puff paste. Bake an hour and 
a half, or longer should the pie be very large, in rather hot oven. 
Another : Cut off two pounds from the leg and chop fine, first re- 
moving fat and skin ; add a slice or two of raw bacon or salt pork, 
chopped, season all well with pepper and salt and put in saucepan 
with a cup gravy and six ounces butter ; add three or four tender 
lettuce leaves cut small, a quart green pease, and an onion, chopped 
fine. Stir all over gentle fire until hot, then cover with good paste 
and bake slowly. Or leave off" the paste and it may be cooked as a 
stew and served in walls of mashed potato. Veal Fie made same 
way. Or season mutton chops (those from the neck are best) high- 
ly with pepper and salt, and place in a dish in layers, with plenty of 
sliced apples, sweetened, and chopped onions ; cover with a good 
suet paste, and bake. When done pour out all the gravy at the side, 
take ofl" the fat, add a spoonful mushroom catsup, then return 
grav}' to pie. For a Mutton Pudding^ cut about two pounds of the 
chump end of loin of mutton into rather thin slices, and season with 
pepper and salt ; line the pudding-dish with paste ; lay in the meat, 
and nearly, but not quite, fill up withv/ater; if the flavor is liked, 
add a little minced onion ; cover with paste, and bake as the pie. Or 
season mutton steaks with salt, pepper and a bit of onion ; put one 
layer of steak in the bottom of dish and pour a batter of potatoes, 
boiled, put through a colander and mixed with milk and egg, over 
them. Sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake. 



608 MEATS. 

Mutton Rissoles. — Take three or four small slices of mutton and 
one of rather lean bacon, a tablespoon chopped onion, teaspoon 
chopped parsley, one-quarter as much thyme, cayenne pepper and 
salt. Chop all together very fine or pass through a sausage ma- 
chine, and roll into balls the size of walnuts ; dip each into beaten 
egg, then in bread-crumbs (not cracker dust) and fry a golden brown 
in hot fat. Pour over them a gravy made of stock thickened with 
browned flour, seasoned with pepper and salt and a teaspoon mush- 
room catsup. 

Mutton Scallops. — Mince dressed mutton with a very little fat, 
season lightly with pepper and salt, and put into scallop-shells about 
half full. Fill up with potatoes, mashed with a little milk and a 
very little butter ; smooth with a spoon, and brown in oven. 

Mutton au Cotirt Bouillon. Procure a neatly trimmed leg of 
mutton and put in stewpan with boiling water to cover. Tie in a 
cloth an onion, a turnip, bunch of sweet herbs, four or five cloves 
and some whole allspice, and put in with mutton. Let boil up, skim 
carefully, cover and place where it will simmer three hours. Then 
stir in three tablespoons flour, mixed smooth in cup cold water, add 
tablespoon salt and pinch of cayenne and cook an hour longer. 
Meantime make a pint aud a half veal or mutton force-meat, shape 
into small balls and fry brown, and boil six eggs hard. When mut- 
ton is done take it up, skim fat from gravy and remove bag of 
seasoning. Set stewpan where it will boil and prepare thickening 
by stirring two tablespoons flour into two tablespoons butter made 
hot in frvins-pan ; cook until dark brown, but do not scorch, and stir 
into the boiling liquid in stew-pan ; add more seasoning if liked. 
Chop whites and yolks of eggs separately; pour gravy over the lamb 
and garnish with the chopped eggs, putting the whites in a little 
mound, topping them Avith some of the yolks, placing remainder of 
yolks over the lamb ; arrange the meat balls in groups around the 
dish, decorate with parsley and serve. Leg of Lamb may be pre- 
pared same. 

Mutton au Gratin. — Take a breast of mutton, cut off the chine- 
bone down to gristle ; put in a stock pot or kettle with a little hot 
water and boil until tender, then take up to cool ; have ready some 
beaten eggs with a little butter and chopped mushrooms added and 
put all over the breast with pastry brush, then place in oven to brown. 
Serve with red currant jelly. A nice dish from .breast of mutton is 
called Swiss Chops. Boil as above with two cloves stuck in a small 
onion, slices of carrot and turnip if liked and a bunch sweet herbs ; 
when tender enough to permit the bones to be drawn out easily, take 
up, lay on a pan, put another, containing weights, on it, and press 
until cold : then cut in eight triangular pieces, about the size of 
small chop ; season with salt and pepper, double-bread them, and 




MEATS. 509 

broil quickly or fry light brown in enough smoking hot fat to cover, 
and serve with a piquant sauce poured over. 

Mutton a la Yen%80n. — Remove all rough fat from a leg of mut- 
ton, lay in a deep earthen dish, and rub into meat very thoroughly 
the following mixture : One tabLspoon salt, one each of celery seed, 
brown sugar, black pepper, made mustard, allspice, and sweet herbs 
mixed and powdered. After these have been rubbed into all parts 
of meat, pour over it slowly a teacup 
good vinegar, cover tightly and set 
in a cool place for four or five days, 
turning and basting with liquid three 
or four times a day. To cook, place 
in a clean kettle a quart boiling wa- 
ter, in which have an inverted tin Leg of Mutton and Beans. 
pan or rack made for the purpose , on it lay the meat just as taken 
out of th'3 pickle ; cover kettle tightly, and stew four hours. Do not 
allow water to touch the meat. Add a cup hot water to the pickle, 
and baste the meat with it. When ready to serve, thicken the hquid 
in the kettle with flour, strain through a fine strainer, and serve the 
meat with it upon a bed of cooked beans, with a relish of currant- 
jelly. Or do not place in pickle, but cook fresh as a Pot-roast of 
beef, adding a bay-leaf, cloves, pepper and salt, and some add an 
onion, sticking thg cloves in it. Offor Italian Stealcs let the fresh 
leg hang several days, then cut in slices, season all with pepper and 
salt, and fry in browned butter in saucepan, sprinkling over a little 
mace ; dust in a little flour and stir in a half cup currant jelly; stir 
until jelly is melted, boil up once and serve. Another way oif cook- 
ing leg of mutton cut in slices is called Mutton Birds. 'Spread a 
lightly seasoned force-meat over the slices, roll up and fasten with 
skewers and brown in hot beef drippings ; then put in stewpan, cov- 
er with water and stew until tender, serving with a gravy poured 
oyer made by thickening the liquor with browned flour, JElavoring 
with two tablespoons tomato catsup. 

Fillet of Mutton. — Choose a very large leg ; cut from four to 
five inches in thickness from large eiid of leg ; take out bone, and 
in its place put a highly seasoned Force-meat; roast two hours, dredg- 
ing and basting last half hour as in Roast Beef. When done it miiy 
be sent to table with a dish of broiled bacon or ham, and fresh cu- 
cumbers if in season, with melted butter poured over it, or a rich 
brown gravy and red currant jelly. For a Stewed Fillet of Mutton, 
prepare and stuff as above, flour and brown in a little butter, and 
put into a stewpan with a pint and a half gravy, a small bunch 
sweet herbs, two or three small onions, a teaspoon whole black pep- 
per, and salt to taste. Stew slowly three hours and a half. Or the 
fillet may be roasted and then stewed with its trimmings. 



510 MEATS. 

Ragout of Mutton. — Cut three pounds of any cheap parts of 
mutton in small pieces ; put three tablespoons each butter and flour 
into a stewpan and when hot and smooth stir in the meat and keep 
stirring until a rich brown ; add a quart water and a bunch sweet 
herbs and set where it will cook slowly. Then fry a large tur- 
nip, cut into cubes, and twelve button onions, or one of common 
size chopped, in three tablespoons hot butter wdth a tablespoon 
flour. When a nice brown, drain and put with the meat. Cook an 
hour and a half. Some like the flavor of three or four cloves and a 
clove of garlic put in with the herb. Small cubes of potato may be 
added half an hour before meat is done. Garnish with rice, toasted 
bread, plain boiled macaroni or mashed potatoes. Serve very hot. 
Ragout of Veac prepared same, but requires cooking an hour longer, 
and more butter. A nice addition to the ragout is rich puff" paste 
rolled a quarter of an inch thick and baked in diamond shapes an 
inch long and half an inch wide. Put them in five minutes before 
ragout is dished. 

Boiled PorTi. — The shoulder and leg ends are most used for 
boiling, and may be cooked as directed in Boiled Meats. Carrots, 
turnips or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, or separately and 
served as a garnish ; or serve the meat in a border of boiled cabbage. 
Skin the leg before serving. Pease Pudding is considered by many 
an indispensable accompaniment to boiled pork. Wash a quart 
dry pease, soak in cold v/ater two hours and boil in a bag 'with the 
poVk ; when done put them through a colander, add a large lump 
butter, salt and two yolks of egg; put back into bag and boil again 
half an hour and serve with the pork. Some prefer to boil the leg 
in a floured cloth. If the joint is large, allow a quarter of an hour's 
cooking to each pound from the time it boils and twenty minutes 
additional. 

Roast Pork. — The choicest roasting piece is the loin, between 
the hind legs and ribs ; next come the upper rib cuts, then spare- 
ribs, or ribs next shoulder. If a nice spare-rib roast is wanted it 
should be ordered with all the meat left on which is usually cut off 
for steaks. For a plain roast follow directions for Roasted Meats, 
roasting slowly at first, and allow fully half an hour to the pound, 
as pork must be well done. Serve with a gravy made in baking pan 
after pouring off" top of drippings. Fried apples are nice with roast 
pork, or any tart sauce, and turnips or fried cabbage are excellent 
accompaniments. For a very nice Roast Loin of Pork, choose a 
small loin, separate each joint with a chopper and make an incision 
Avith a knife in the thick part into which put a stuffing made by 
mixing three tablespoons bread-crumbs with a finely chopped onion, 
halfteaspoopoon chopped sage, pepper, salt, and tablespoon chopped 
suet or drippings ; when thoroughly mixed, press into the incisi on and 
sew edges of the meat together wdth needle and thread, to confine the 



MEATS. 511 

stuffing. Grease a sheet of kitchen paper well with drippings, place 
the loin in this, securing it with a wrapping of twine, and put to 
bake in a dry baking pan, in a brisk oven, basting immediately and 
constantly as the fat is drawn out. Allow twenty minutes to the 
pound and twenty minutes longer. Serve with apple sauce or apple- 
fritters. It is not necessary to put in greased paper, but the skin if 
left on should be scored across one way at regular intervals or each 
way in small squares. Instead of opening and stuffing the loin the 
dressing may be baked separately or put in the pan Avith the pork a 
half hour before done. Some rub the loin over M'ith salad oil or 
butter to make it brown and crisp without blistering, before putting 
in oven. Alwaj's serve with it a gravy made in pan, and any other 
sauce or accompaniments liked. Or the loin may be steamed or 
boiled until nearly done; then remove skin, coat Avell with yolk of 
egg and bread-crumbs and put in oven for about fifteen minutes or 
until nicely browned and thoroughly done. Roast Tenderloin is 
cooked and served the same. RoaM Leg of Pork may be prepared 

md served same as loin, making the 
mcision for the dressing just below 
the knuckle. Or first parboil the leg 
and take off skin. Make a stuffing 
of two tablespoons finely minced 
onion, half a chopped apple eight 
tablespoons bread-crumbs, hall a 
dozen chopped sage leaves, tablespoon butter, and a little pepper 
and salt ; bind all together with yolk of an egg ; make a slit in the 
knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and sew ; put in the oven and baste 
often. Half an hour before taken up, sprinkle over a savory powder 
made of two tablespoons bread-crumbs mixed with one tablespoon 
powdered sage, and a little pepper and salt. Do not baste the meat 
after the powder is put on. Serve with good brown gravy and apple 
sauce. Almost equal to roast goose. For Roast Spare-rib, trim off 
the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the middle, rub with 
salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuff with either of the above 
dressings, sew up tightly, place in dripping-pan with pint of water, 
and baste frequently, turning over once so as to bake both sides 
equally until a rich brovv^n. Some dredge with flour and powdered 
sage when basting, and spare-rib is as often roasted without the 
dressing as with it. Serve with apple sauce, mashed potatoes and 
greens, or other vegetables. Potatoes are often peeled and baked in 
the pan with the pork. Or steam or boil the ribs until nearly done ; 
then take up, lay in dripping-pan with inside of ribs up and fill with 
either dressing given above, making very moist — as soft as for bread 
pudding ; bake half an hour. The griskin or back piece is some- 
times roasted, and as it is apt to be dry it is well to flour it when 
put in the oven and dredge with flour at every basting to keep in 
the juices. Sprinkle powdered sage over before taking up. The 




512 MEATS. 

neck of pork is very excellent roasted if first thoroughly cleaned and 
filled Avith either of the stufiings already given. Bake peeled pota- 
toes in pan and serve on platter round the pork. When to be baked 
and served thus the potatoes should be of uniform size and shaped 
as round and smooth as possible when peeled. 

Stewed Pork. — The shoulder, loin or spare-rib are sometimes 
etewed, though the back and neck pieces and other inferior parts 
are more often cooked thus : Rub the joint with pepper and salt, 
and put into a large saucepan with a closely-fitting lid. Boil an 
hour or two and add two or three onions and carrots, with half a 
dozen celery stalks, four sage leaves, bunch of parsley, small sprig 
majoram and thyme, and stock or water to cover. Boil up and skim 
carefully ; then set back and simmer gently for three or four hours, 
according to size of joint. Serve garnished with the vegetables; 
strain and thicken a portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot 
over the meat. When removed from the table, trim the joint neatly 
and place on a clean dish to be eaten cold, or thicken the rest of the 
gravy and pour over the meat to be warmed over. Some like a stew 
Avith sweet potatoes, seasoning only with salt and pepper. The pota- 
toes may be peeled or not as preferred, and put in with the pork 
long enough before it is done to cook them thoroughly. Serve on 
same platter round the meat. 

Pork Chops. — Chops are cut from the loin and ribs, the cuts 
from the leg and shoulder being known as steaks. For Broiled 
Pork Chops, broil as directed in Broiled Meats, cooking until thor- 
oughly well done and serve plainly, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
or wilh tomato or any sauce preferred. Bohert Sauce is nice with 
pork cho])S as well as beefsteak. For this fry three tablespoons 
chopped onion a pale yellow in one tablespoon butter, add two table- 
spoons spiced vinegar, and reduce one half by quick boiling ; add 
half pint brown gravy, and boil slowly fifteen minutes ; season with 
saltspoon salt, quarter saltispoon pepper, two teaspoons French mus- 
tard, and serve poured over the chops, dished in a circle. Or first 
single-bread the chops, or roll in melted butter and bread-crumbs, 
seasoned with sage, broil and serve as above. Or they may be 
dished round a center of boiled rice or mashed potato. Juried Chops 
are cooked in hot frying pan until nicely browned and thoroughly 
done on both sides. Then serve like broiled chops, or add a little hot 
water to the gravy in the pan, a tablespoon butter rolled in flour, 
pepper, salt, sugar and half cup juice from canned tomatoes ; stew 
five minutes and pour over the chops. Or simply sprinkle over them 
a little finely minced onion, powdered sage and pepper and salt. 
Or melt two ounces butter in saucepan, and stir into it a teaspoon 
each chopped parsley, sage and shallot ; fry a few minutes, add a 
little salt and pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. Dip chops first 
into this, then in sifted bread-crumbs, let stand ten minutes, fry in 



MEATS. 513 

little melted butter and serve with a brown gravy poured over. For 
Pork Chops with Apples.^wi in frying-pan, scatter a little sage and 
pepper and salt over ; cook thoroughly ; if fat enough, so that there 
is plenty of gravy, fry sliced apples in that ; if not, add a lump but- 
ter, brown the apples, and serve over the pork. Some marinade 
chops four hours in oil w'ith an onion in slices, parsley, bay-leaf, 
pepper and salt and fry in the marinade, serving with tomato sauce. 
This is a delicious breakfast dish. 

Pork Pie. — Line sides of deep pie dish with a good but not 
very rich paste ; put alternate layers of thinly sliced bacon and 
potatoes, onions chopped or sliced very fine and lean fresh pork cut 
into small pieces. Season with pepper, salt and sage. Fill the dish 
with any good gravy left from roasts, or with water thickened with 
a little flour, and add little butter. Cover with crust, and bake about 
an hour and a half. Cover with thick paper if in danger of brown- 
ing too much. Or line a deep dish with paste as for chicken pio, 
put in a layer of sliced sour apples, season with sugar and spice ; add 
a layer of fresh, rather lean pork, sliced thin, seasoned with salt and 
pepper ; and thus place alternate layers of apple and pork until dish 
is nearly full ; put in a little water and cover with paste ; bake slowly 
until thoroughly done. 

Pork Puddhig. — One cup finely chopped sail pork, two cups 
each brown sugar and sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder, 
four cups flour, two cups raisins, teaspoon each cloves and cinna- 
mon, half teaspoon ginger, half a grated nutmeg. Put in buttered 
mold and steam or boil four hours. Serve with sour sauce. This 
makes a large pudding, but will keep a week, and put in steamer and 
reheated is as good as when fresh. 

Pork Poll. — Take a piece of side pork, fat and lean together, 
spread any seasoning of powdered herbs or spices liked over it, roll 
up tightly and fasten by winding a cloth around it to prevent the 
edges from curling up ; boil until tender, take from liquor and set 
away to cool. Serve in nice slices for luncheon or tea. 

Pork Steaks. — The cuts from the leg and shoulder are called 
steaks and are broiled or fried as beefsteaks ; sprinkle with powder- 
ed sage before serving, if liked, and send fried apples on with them, 
or any sauce preferred. Always cook well done. 

Pork Tenderloin. — Split open and broil till very brown and 
well done ; season with pepper, salt and powdered sage. Or split in 
half, but do not separate entirely ; fill with well seasoned oysters, 
sew up, and broil thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper before 
serving. Or split the tenderloin and fry in frying-pan in little but- 
ter ; mix some chopped pickles with the gravy and pour it over 
them. 



514 MEATS. 

Pork and Beans. — Pick over carfully a quart of beans and let 
them soak overnight ; in the morning wash in another water and 
drain, put on to boil in cold Avater with a half teaspoon soda ; boil 
about thirtj^ minutes (when done the skin of a bean will crack if 
taken out and blown upon), drain and put in an earthen pot first a 
slice of pork and then the beans, with two or three tablespoons mo- 
lasses ; put in the center half or three-fourths pound well-washed 
salt pork with the rind uppermost, scored in slices or squares ; sea- 
son with pepper and salt if needed ; cover all with hot water and 
bake six hours or longer in a moderate oven, adding hot water as 
needed, but do not stir them ; they cannot be baked too long. Keep 
covered so that they will not burn on the top, but remove cover an 
hour or two before serving, to brown the top and crisp the pork. 
This is the real Boston Baked Beans, a favorite New England dish 
for Sunday breakfast. The beans are always baked the day before, 
allowed to remain in the oven all night, and browned in the morn- 
ing. Serve in the dish in which they are cooked, and always have 
enough left to know the luxury of cold beans, or baked beans warm- 
ed over. If salt pork is too robust for the appetites to be served, 
season delicately with salt, pepper, and a little butter, and roast a 
fresh spare-rib to serve with them. Some put the beans to soak in 
milk-warm water and parboil the pork an hour before putting in the 
beans, first scalding and scraping the rind ; when the beans have 
boiled up once pour off the water and add fresh ; a sliced onion may 
be boiled with them if liked ; boil until beans are quite tender, add- 
ing more water if necessary to prevent scorch- 
ing ; put in baking dish Avith tablespoon mo- 
lasses, score the pork and sink it in center, 
add a little water in which beans were boiled 
and brown in oven one hour. Corned beef may 
be used instead of pork. This is a very ex- 
cellent dish, but not so nice as the baked 
beans. The cut represents the old-fashioned 
Dutch oven, an iron kettle with a heavy tight- Dutch oven. ^ 

fitting iron lid. The oven is lowered "into the ground level with the 
top and the lid covered with live coals. There is no oven which bakes 
pork and beans and imparts the same delicious flavor. It is also nice 
for baking brown or corn bread, and may be placed in the stove in- 
stead of the ground. 

Sjyare-rih Pot-pie — Cut spare-ribs once across and then in strips 
three or four inches wide ; put in kettle with hot water to cover, 
stew till tender, season with salt and pepper, and turn out of kettle ; 
replace a layer of spare-ribs in bottom, add a layer of peeled pota- 
toes (quartered if large), some bits of butter, small squares of bak- 
ing-powder dough roiled quite thin ; season again, put in another 
layer of spare-ribs, and so on until kettle is two-thirds full, leaving 
the squares of crust for last layer ; then add the liquor in which 




MEATS. 515 

fpare-ribs were boiled, and hot water if needed, cover, and boil half 
to three-quarters of an hour, being careful not to boil dry, adding 
hot water if necessary. The crust can be made of light biscuit 
dough, without egg or sugar, as follows : Roll thin, cut out, let 
rise, and use for the pie, having plenty of water in the kettle, so that 
when the pie is made and the cover on, it need not be removed until 
dished. If after taking up, there is not sufficient gravy, add hot 
water and flour and butter rubbed together ; season to taste, and 
serve. To warm over pot-pie, set it in a dripping-pan in the oven, 
add lumps of butter with gravy or hot water, and more squares of 
dough may be laid on top. 

Fricatelli. — Chop raw fresh pork very fine, add a little salt, 
plenty of pepper, and two small onions chopped fine, half as much 
bread as there is meat, soaked until soft, two eggs ; mix well to- 
gether, make into oblong patties, and fry like oysters. Nice for 
breakfast ; if used for supper, serve with sliced lemon. Sausage 
meat may be used instead of the fresh pork. 

To Keep Fresli Porl\ — Roast the pieces to be kept, all ready 
for the table ; then put them away in lard. All that is necessary is 
to heat through when wanted, and the lard is just as good as any for 
frying doughnuts or mush. 

Roast Pig. — The pig to be eaten in perfection, should not be 
more than three or four weeks old, and should be cooked the same 
day it is killed. If ordered from the butcher it will need only wash- 
ing and drying ; if killed at home, lay in cold water immediately for 
a few minutes, then immerse a few minutes in boiling hot water and 
scrape well ; remove the eyes and tongue, trim the ears, cut off the 
feet, and clean it thoroughly. Wash and dry it with a clean cloth ; 
rub it well, inside and outside, with sage and seasoning of «alt and 
cayenne pepper. For the stuffing make a Liver Force-meat as fol- 
lows : Slice part of the pig's liver and fry brown in two tablespoons 
butter ; chop fine, then return to frying-pan with a chopped onion 
and tablespoon chopped parsley, ad(i another tablespoon butter and 
fry till onion is brown. Soak enough bread to fill the pig in cold 
water and when soft squeeze dry as possible and put in frying-pan 
with other ingredients ; add tablespoon each powdered sage, thyme, 
marjoram and salt and teaspoon pepper. Stir all over fire until 
scalding hot, then add cup boiling milk and yolks of two raw eggs. 
When the pig is stuffed sew itr up, skewer the fore legs under the 
head, and the hind legs under the hams ; tie up the ears and tail in 
buttered paper to prevent burning, and lay the pig in a dripping-pan 
on abed of vegetables, and brush the pig all over with melted butter 
or good salad oil, and put into a hot oven ; baste every fifteen min- 
utes with melted butter or oil, using apastry brush if possible; Leave 
a medium-sized pig in oven two and a half or three hours. While 
the pig is being baked, prepare the heart, lights and spleen for the 



616 MEATS. 

gravy by boiling tender in enough water to cover, then chop fine, 
and keep hot in same water. When pig is done, take it up, skim the 
vegetables out of the pan, rub them through a sieve with a potato- 
masher, and put them again into the dripping-pan without washing 
it, with the chopped mixture, and enough more water to make a 
thick gravy ; season highly with salt, pepper and powdered sage ; 
boil two minutes and serve with the pig. For the Apple Sauce to 
be served with the dish, wash eight large sound apples, cut through 
the middle cross-wise, remove cores and bake till tender. Meantime 
stev\' eight peeled and sliced apples in little water till tender with 
tAvo tablespoons sugar and grated lemon rind, and pulp through a 
sieve ; fill the baked apples with this and set around the pig on 
platter as a garnish. Serve the pig whole, with an apple or small 
ear of corn in its mouth, which may be kept open while baking by 
inserting a piece of wood. It is, however, sometimes served split 
in half, the two halves placed back to back on platter with half of 
head on each end, and an ear on each side. Some also like the 
brains chopped and mixed with the stuffing, and the tongue and 
feet cooked with the heart, etc., for the gravy. If a Potato StnMng 
is liked boil twenty good sized potatoes, mash while hot, add butter, 
a little milk, and two minced onions and minced sweet herbs, with 
seasoning of salt and pepper, and bread-crumbs, and stuff the i)ig 
with it. Or fill with a Veal Force-meat, if preferred. Another way 
of preparing is after the pig is dressed to score it in squares, and rub 
butter, lard or salad oil all over it ; make a dressing of two quarts 
corn meal, salted as if for bread, mix to a stiff dough with boiling 
water, put into pans and bake. When baked brown, break it uj^, 
and add one-fourth pound butter, pepper to taste, and thyme. Fill 
the pig till plump, sew it up, and place it on its knees in the pan, 
which fill with as much water as will cook it. Baste very frequently 
with the gravy, to which two red pepper pods should be added. Turn 
while baking same as turkey, and continue to baste till done. Gar- 
nish with celery and parsley tops and serve with apple sauce. 

Pig'^s Feet. — Take the fore feet, cut off the hocks, clean and 
scrape them well ; place two feet together and roll them up tightly 
in common muslin ; tie or sew them so that they will keep in perfect 
shape, and boil them seven hours on a moderate fire — they will then 
be very soft ; lift out carefully and let cool ; then remove the muslin 
and they will be found like jelly. Serve with vinegar, or split and 
roll in bread-crumbs or cracker dust, a«d fry or broil them. Serve 
with a little tart sauce. Leave them in the cloths until ready to 
chop. Some boil them only till tender, not wrapping in cloth, then 
split in halves, take out all large bones and fry or broil. Or j^utthe 
feet into a stewpan with the liver, heart, a thin slice of bacon, an 
onion, blade of mace, six pepper-corns, three or four sprigs thyme, 
pint gravy, pepper and salt to taste, and simmer gently fifteen min- 
utes ; then take out head and liver, and mince very fine ; stew the 



MEATS. 



517 



feet till quite tender, which will be in from twenty minutes to half 
an hour, reckoning from the time they boiled up first; then put 
back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and 
flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over gentle fire five 
minutes, stirring occasionally. Dish the mince and split feet, and ar- 
range in a circle alternately v/ith croutons of toasted bread, and 
pour gravy in the middle. 

Pig's-feet Souse.— Q^xiX off horny parts of feet and toes, scrape, 
clean, and wash thoroughly, singe off stray hairs, place in a kettle 
with plenty 'of water, boil, skim, pour off water and add fresh, and 
boil until bones will pull out easily ; do notbone, but pack in a stone 
jar with pepper and salt sprinkled between each layer ; cover with 
good cider vinegar. Some heat vinegar scalding hot, add two table- 
spoons sugar, one of cinnamon bark, teaspoon each cloves, allspice 
and whole black pepper, to three pints vinegar and a little celery or 
mustard seed may be added if liked. Pour over hot and put a plate 
or saucer on the feet to keep them under the vinegar. This pro- 
portion is for four feet ; they may be split in two in packing. When 
wanted for table, take out a sufficient quantity, put in a hot skillet, 
add more vinegar, salt and pepper if needed, boil until thoroughly 
heated, stir in a smooth thickening of flour and watei, and boil until 
flour is cooked ; serve hot as a nice breakfast dish. Or, when feet 
have boiled until perfectly tender, remove bones and pack in stone 
jar with pepper, allspice and salt between the layers, and cover with 
equal parts vinegar and liquor feet were boiled in ; slice cold when 
wanted for use, and serve with vinegar or Worcestershire sauce. Or 
the slices maybe broiled or fried. Some soak the fresh feet overnight 
before cooking. Let liquor in which the feet are boiled stand over- 
night ; in the morning remove fat and prepare and keep for use as 
directed in Medical Department. 

Baled P'ujs Head—Cwi the head in halves and thoroughly 
clean it, take out brains, trim the snout and ears, put in a pan with 
a little dripping, bake an hour and a half, basting occasionally. 
Wash the brains well, blanch and beat them up with an egg, pepper, 
and salt, some finely chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of 
butter ; fry them or brown them before the fire and serve with the 
head. 

Boiled Pig's ^e«i.— Thoroughly wash half a salted pig's head 
and soak overnight in cold water ; in the morning put over the fire 
in more cold water, with a half cup vinegar, and teaspoon each whole 
cloves and pepper-corns, and boil gently three hours, or until very 
tender ; leave it in the water in which it was boiled until it is wanted 
for the table ; serve it with boiled spinach, cabbage, or beet tops. 

Collared Pig's Head—Singe the head carefully, bone it with- 
out breaking the skin, and rub it well with salt. Make the bnne by 



518 MEATS. 

boiling together half an hour, one gallon water, one pound common 
salt, tablespoon chopped juniper-berries, six bruised cloves, two bay- 
leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, and one-fourth ounce salt- 
petre. When cold, pour it over the head, and let it stand in this ten 
days, turning and rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain and dry it. 
For the force-meat, pound half pound each ham and bacon till fine, 
and mix in one teaspoon mixed spices, pepper to taste, quarter 
pound lard, tablespooii minced parsley, six young onions chopped. 
Spread this over the head, roll tightly in cloth, bind with tape and 
put in saucepan with a few meat trimmings and cover with stock. 
Simmer gently four hours. When tender, take up and put between 
two dishes with heavy weight on top ; when cold remove cloth and 
tape and send to table for breakfast or luncheon, on napkin, or gar- 
nished with white paper frill at top. 

Pig''s Head Cheese. — Having thoroughly cleaned a nice 
head, split in two, take out the eyes and brain ; clean the ears, throw 
scalding water over the head and ears, then scrape them well ; when 
very clean, put in kettle with water to cover, and set over a rather 
quick fire ; skim it as any scum rises ; when boiled so that the flesh 
leaves the bones, take it from the water with a skimmer into a large 
Avooden bowl or tray ; take out every particle of bone, chop meat 
fine, season to taste with salt and pepper (a little pounded sage may 
be added), spread a cloth over the colander, put the meat in, fold 
cloth closely over it, lay a weight on it so that it may press the whole 
surface equally (if it be lean use a heavy weight, if fat, a lighter one) ; 
when cold take off weight, remove from colander, and place in crock. 
Some add vinegar in proportion of one pint to a gallon crock. Clar- 
ify the fat from the cloth, colander, and liquor of the pot, and use 
for frying. Some boil and chop the meat from the feet also. Pow- 
dered sweet herbs, teaspoon allspice, two of cloves and saltspoon 
powdered mace make a very nice seasoning, and some like the flavor 
of onions stuck with cloves boiled Avith the meat. Instead of press- 
ing in a cloth the meat may be packed in molds, moistened or not 
with a little of its own broth, and a little vinegar. Boiled heart, 
part of liver and the tongue are also chopped and added, and some- 
times a fourth as much lean beef as meat from head, etc., is added. 
Sliced tongue and sausages, or whole tongue may be placed in center 
of mold. This dish is called Braum by the English, Avho pack in 
molds, without moistening, and press with weights. Some cook 
again ten minutes or so after chopping the meat and adding the 
seasonings before putting in molds. It is nice to pack in small 
molds, if to be served cold, and slice at table. Garnish with parsley 
and barberries or slices of lemon. Scrapple is composed of the 
head-meat, trimmings of the hams and shoulders, flitch, smaller 
parts of the chine, the heart, part of the liver and the skin off" the 
parts intended for lard and sausage. The spleen, kidneys and 
cracklings are used by some and rejected by others. The feet and 



MEATS. 519 

ears may also be used. The head is split between the jaws, and 
after the tongue is taken out it is split through the middle the other 
way. Cut off one or two inches of the snout and take off the jaw- 
bone and nasal cavities' as far as the teeth extend, and cut across at 
the eye and also at the opening of the ear. The meat may then be 
cleaned out evenl3^ Put the head meat into the boiler after putting 
in water to cover it, add the rest of the meat in a quarter of an hour. 
The meat must be boiled until it will readily separate from the bones 
(the skins should be boiled separately as they take a long time to 
boil) ; then take from liquid, remove the bones and chop the meat 
very fine. Strain the liquid to get out small bones and add to it 
enough water to make five parts liquid to three of meat. As soon 
as liquid boils, stir in corn meal and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, 
stirring all the time. Make a moderately thick mush, then put in 
meat, mixing thoroughly, cook slowly one hour and season to taste. 
It takes about as much meal as meat, but no buckwheat nor flour. 
The Indian meal must be ground fine, of new corn, well dried before 
grinding. Put away in tin pans or earthern pots in cold place but 
do not let it freeze. Slice and fry. 

Boiled Salt Pork. — Wash a piece of salt pork, the leg is best, 
put over the fire in cold water to cover and boil slowly three hours, 
alloM'ing twenty minutes to the pound ; when done, take up the meat, 
remove skin and serve with pickles or mustard and boiled potatoes. 

Fried Salt Pork. — Cut in rather thin slices, and freshen by let- 
ing lie an hour or two in cold water or milk and water, roll in 
flour and fry till crisp and a nice golden brown ; if in a hurry, par- 
boil, or pour boiling water on the slices, let stand a few minutes, 
drain, roll in flour and fry as before. Fry cold boiled potatoes, 
sliced, in same fat till brown on both sides, without breaking, and 
serve as a garnish round the slices of pork on platter. Keep both 
hot while making a gravy as follows : Drain off most of the grease 
from frying-pan, stir in while hot one or two tablespoons flour, about 
half pint new milk, little pepper, and salt if not salt enough already 
from the meat ; let boil and pour into gravy dish. A nice white 
gravy when properly made. Some soak pork to be fried for break- 
fast overnight in buttermilk. Pork Fried in Batter is nice for a 
change. Make the batter by beating together four eggs, three heap- 
ing tablespoons flour, a cup milk, and a little salt; clip the slices of 
pork in this and fry in hot fat, or pour the batter over pork in fry- 
ing-pan and cook all until a nice brown. While making gravy place 
the fried pork where it will keep hot but not fry, as it should be sent 
to table in nice dry crisp slices without a particle of grease visible. 
An excellent way of serving is to dust with white pepper and turn a 
little sweet cream over the slices. Pork Scrajys with Fffff Sauce are 
nice served with boiled codfish and mashed potatoes. Cut fat salt 
pork into half inch squares and fry a crisp brown ; for the sauce, 



520 MEATS. 

beat an egg very light, with one tablespoon flour. Add two table- 
spoons cold water, then pour on one pint boiling water. Let it boil 
three minutes, then take from the fire, add one-half cup melted but- 
ter, and serve poured round the pork slices neatly placed in center 
of platter. For Fried Pork with Apples, core sour apples, cut into 
nice slices crosswise without peeling them and fry in pan with slices 
of pork, and serve on dish with pork in center and apples around 

Pressed Salt Pork. — Take a rather long strip of fat and lean 
salt pork, cut from the flank ; wash it in cold water, and soak in 
warm water until sufficiently softened to roll ; lay pork skin down, 
on table, cut out all bones and gristle, season rather highly with 
pepper and mixed powdered dried sweet herbs, or chopped parsley 
or celery leaves ; some cover with sliced pickled gherkins, seasoned 
with pepper and powdered mace ; cut any uneven portions and place 
them so that pork can be rolled up tightly ; tie and put it over the 
fire in boiling water to cover, and boil gently an hour and a quarter, 
or until tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork, then drain 
it, reserving liquor in which it was boiled, put it between two dishes, 
with a weight on upper one, and press until cold ; then remove 
strings, slice and serve. Parsnips washed and scraped, and boiled 
tender with pork, can be sliced and fried, and served with it ; the 
cold pork can be sliced and quickly browned in frying pan with 
parsnips, either drippings, lard, or butter being used for frying them ; 
carrots can be cooked in same manner, and served with pork, or any 
vegetable preferred. A nice flavor may be given the pork by boiling 
with it two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, bunch 
of jDarslcy and sprig of thyme. 

Roast Salt Pork. — Boil one hour; pour off" first water, and boil 
another hour ; take out and put it in pan, tip so grease will run off", 
sprinkle with pepper, and bake brown, turning and basting often, 
dredging with flour at two or three last bastings. Bake small, smooth 
potatoes, peeled and cut round, in pan with pork, and dish around it 
as a garnish. Make a brown gravy in pan and serve in gravy boat. Or 
take moderately thin pieces, about right for three thin slices, pepper 
and dust with sage, and bake as above. Before it is done put in a 
few pieces of onion. When done, take out, cut into slices for table, 
dish and pour a very little cream over, sprinkle with flour and put 
in oven to brown. Or after freshening and parboiling a thin piece 
of side pork, spread with a dressing of bread-crumbs, finely chopped 
onion, a small piece of butter, pepper and salt, and two well-beaten 
eggs. Roll well together and tie tightly. Place in a dripping-pan, 
with a little water, dust with flour and a little pe]Dper, and roast till 
a nice brown. Serve with apple sauce. A little tmely chopped pie- 
plant added gives the sauce a pleasant acid taste. 

Salt Pork Pot-pie. — Parboil a piece of side pork, cut in small 
pieces and put in kettle with water to cover ; add one or two onions 



MEATS. ' 521 

an equal amount of carrot, and a little pepper ; let cook a few min- 
utes, then put in potatoes, and twenty minutes before taking up, put 
in some dumplings. Or grate medium-sized carrot, chop one small 
onion, and cut in small slices one or two potatoes, add the parboiled 
pork, cutin bits, with sufficient water, and cook until vegetables are 
done ; thicken, and over the top spread a baking-powder crust, and 
bake until it is done. Some cook the pork in slices, parboiling as 
above, and add only small potatoes, whole. Before putting in the 
dumplings it may be- necessary to add more water, Avhich should be 
boiling. For the dumplings take one pint flour, pinch of soda, salt, 
an egg beaten light, and very sour milk enough to make a soft dough, 
or a very stiff batter so it will drop, not run off the spoon ; drop this 
in small spoonfuls into the kettle, and cook until light and done, 
which will be in a very few minutes. 

Salt Pork ISieio. — Boil one pound salt pork, previously fresh- 
ened, until tender, then take out and place in pan in oven to brown. 
Boil potatoes and onions, or potatoes alone in the liquor the pork 
was boiled in and when done stir in a beaten egg mixed with a cup 
milk and tablespoon butter, with seasoning to taste. Or when onions 
are omitted put in dumplings a half hour before ready to serve. 

Boiled Baco7i. — As bacon is often very salt, it should be soaked 
in warm water an hour or two before cooking ; then pare off the rusty 
parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put 
into a saucepan cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as 
fast as scum rises remove it. Simmer very gently till thoroughly 
done ; then take up, strip off skin, sprinkle some bread-crumbs over 
and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When 
served alone, young and tender beans or green pease are the usual 
accompaniments. Or boil a half lean and fat piece with a little 
stock, slices of sausage and cabbage ; season with salt and spice and 
serve all very hot, the bacon in center of dish with sausages and 
cabbage around. 

Breakfast Bacon. — Slice very thin, cut off outside and lay 
each slice on slice of bread of ordinary thickness, same size as bacon, 
and bake in pan in very hot oven. Or boil till tender, and when 
cold, slice, single-bread and fry brown in very little fat. Very nice. 
and quite unlike bacon. 

Broiled Bacon. — The half lean and fat part of thick flank is best 
for broiling. Cut into thin slices, take off rind, broil over a clear 
fire and serve very hot. Some broil it between sheets of paper. 
Should there be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it an- 
swers very well for breakfast, cut into slices and broiled or fried. 

Fried Bacon — Cut bacon in thin slices and fry ; some like it 
crisp, others fry only till transparent ; fry eggs in same pan and 



522 MEATS. 

serve one on each slice. Or fry tart apples, either quartered or 
sliced crosswise and cored, in the fat and serve them on the slices of 
bacon, Avhich have been kept hot in oven. Rashei's of Bacon are 
thin strips of bacon, about an eighth of an inch thick, and three or 
four inches long, fried until transparent. The French serve them laid 
over beefsteak, roast beef, game, etc., and they are often served for 
breakfast with fried liver. 

Bacon Pudding. — Cut a quarter pound fat bacon in small bits 
and fry brown with two sliced onions ; add a pint split pease, table- 
spoon salt, saltspoon pepper, teaspoon sugar and cold wa-terto cover ; 
boil until pease are reduced to pulp, which will be in about three 
hours. Then stir in oatmeal to thicken, boil twenty minutes, stir- 
ring occasionally, and serve hot ; any remains left over miay be sliced 
and fried brown or the whole may be cooled, packed in a tin or mold 
and then fried. 

Bacon Rohj-Poly. — Boil a pound and a half bacon half an hour ; 
then slice thin ; peel and slice six apples and same number onions ; 
make stiff dough of two quarts flour,teaspoon salt, pint finely chopped 
suet and cold water; roll out half an inch thick and eight inches 
wide ; lay the oacon, apples, and onion all over it, roll up, tie tightly 
in a clean cloth, and boil about two hours, in plenty of boiling water, 
or it may be steamed four hours. Serve hot with boiled potatoes, 
or boiled cabbage. Some omit the onions and apples, and chop the 
bacon fine. For IIa7n Roly-Poly use chopped ham instead of 
bacon. 

Baited Ham. — Put the ham in water at least twelve hours be- 
fore baking. Skimmed milk, or milk and water is preferred by 
many to water for soaking hams. When ready to cook wipe the 
ham dry, trim away any rusty places, and cover it Avith a coarse 
paste of flour and water to keep the gravy in, place in pan on trivet, 

put in oven and bake from four to six 
hours, according to size, or allow fifteen 
minutes for each pound. When ready to 
'^'"''^'- serve take off paste and skin, cover with 

bread or cracker crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and as soon 
as browned take up and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. Ham 
is sometimes roasted plainly, as directed in Roasted Meats, dredging 
well Avith flour, bread-crumbs or cracker dust, but is much SAveeter 
and nicer if the juices are confined by a paste as above. Baked 
Stuffed Ham is prepared by making deep incisions in the ham Avith 
a sharp knife and filling them Avith a bread stuffing, seasoned Avith 
onion, ground sage, celery seed and thyme, or Avith a dressing made 
by mixing a quarter pound fresh pork chopped A'ery fine, two table- 
spoons poAA^dered sage, one of black pepper, teaspoon cloA'es, all- 
spice, and cinnamon and an onion chopped A'ery fine, moistening 
with pepper vinegar. Put the ham on trivet, sift flour thickly over 



MEATS 523 

and if pan is deep fill half full of water. Bake as above, basting as 
other roast meats. Or wasii and scrape skin till very white, cut out 
a piece from thick part (use for frying), leaving the skin on the ham 
as far as possible, as it makes a casing for the stuffing ; put in a boil- 
er and steam for three hours ; take out and score in thin slices all 
around the skin ; fill the space cut out with a stuffing made of bread- 
crumbs, same as for poultry, only not quite so rich, seasoned rather 
highly with pepper and sage ; Avrap around a strip of cotton cloth to- 
keep in place, and bake in the oven one and a half hours, turning 
so as to brown al' sides nicely. The last half hour sift lightly with 
powdered sugar and cinnamon. Some peel off skin after steaming, 
then insert dressing so that when carved each slice will have some 
of the dressing in it. Mix two well-beaten eggs with sifted bread or 
cracker crumbs and spread over the ham, then sprinkle brown sugar 
over and bake, basting frequently with the liquor in pan. What is 
left is delicious sliced cold. 

Boiled Ham, — Pour boiling water over the. ham and let stand 
until cool enough to wash ; scrape clean (some have a coarse hair- 
brush on purpose for cleaning hams), put in a thoroughly cleansed 
boiler, or Ham Boiler, with cold water enough to cover; bring to 
boiling point, skim, and place on back part of stove to simmer 

steadily for six or seven hours, or till . _-^ 

tender when pierced with a fork, or df^^^^H^^^^Ej^^Bj^ 
allow fifteen minutes for each pound ; f^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^m[ 
be careful to keep water at boiling j^M^ WmWi 

point, but do not allow it to go much Hn| "|I|m 

above that. Turn the ham onee or twice HSl \M 

in the water; when done take up and S'Hiiiiiiiiiiiiniijjiirwi'liiiiiiiinjiiim 

hands in cold water, take skin be- ^^^^^'""" "" _ 
tween fingers and peel as an orange ; ^""^ '^"^'"'' 

set in moderate oven, placing lean side of ham downward, and if 
liked, sift over pounded or rolled crackers; bake one hour. The 
baking brings out a great quantity of fat, leaving the meat much 
more delicate, and in warm weather it will keep in a dry, cool place 
a long time ; if there is a tendency to mold, set it a little while into 
the oven again. Or, after the ham is boiled and peeled, cover with 
the white of a raw egg, and sprinkle sugar or fine bread-crumbs over 
it ; or cover with a regular cake-icing, place in the oven and brown ; 
or, quarter two onions, stick whole allspice and black pepper in the 
quarters, and with a knife make slits in the outside of the ham in 
which put the onions, place in dripping-pan, lay parsley around, and 
bake till nicely browned ; or put chopped parsley and pepper in the 
incisions. Or, after boiling and peeling, dust with sugar, and pass a 
salamander or hot shovel over it until it forms a caramel glaze, and 
serve without baking. Some rub the ham over with brown sugar 
moistened with a little vinegar ; stick it full of cloves, then bake fif- 



524 MEATS. 

teen minutes ; or take half cup brown sugar, teaspoon browned flour, 
and moisten with vinegar ; cover this paste over the fat of the ham,and 
set in very hot oven until the mixture froths. A still nicer way is to 
glaze with strong meat jelly or any savory jelly at hand, boiled down 
rapidly (taking great care to prevent burning) until it is like glue. 
Brush this jelly over the ham when cool, and it makes an elegant 
dish. The nicest portion of the boiled ham may be served in slices, 
and the ragged parts and odds and ends chopped fine for sandwiches, 
or by adding three eggs to one pint of chopped ham a delicious ome- 
let may be made. If the ham is very salt, it should he in M'^ater over- 
night. Hard-boiled eggs in rings, pickled beets cut in fancy shapes, 
sliced lemons and green parsley are used as a garnish for ham. 
Some soak the ham as for baking, and add to the water in which it 
is to be boiled a pint vinegar, two or three bay-leaves and little bunch 
thyme and parsley. Others like the flavor of parsley, turnips and 
onions. The ham may also be stuffed as directed in Baked Ham. 
If to be served cold let the ham remain in the water until nearly 
cold, but do not leave overnight. Remove the rind and with a cloth 

absorb as much grease from it as 

possible ; then sprinkle with 

bread-crumbs, cut any figure 

fancied upon it, with a sharp 

knife, ornament with a paper 

frill and croutons or vegetable 

flowers, (see Garnishes), and 

serve with a garnish of aspic jelly. 

Garnished Ham. jf ^jj Ordinary boilcr is used to 

boil a ham, some put a whisp of clean, sweet hay in bottom. Keep 

the bone for soup, and the rind and fat should be rendered and 

strained for frying. 

Boned Ham. — Having soaked a well-cured ham in tepid water 
overnight, boil it till perfectly tender, putting it on in warm water ; 
take up in a wooden tray, let cool, remove bone carefully, press the 
ham again into shape, return to boiling liquor, remove pot from fire, 
and let remain in it till cool. Cut across and serve cold. Or fill the 
bone cavity with a bread stuffing or force-meat and bake an hour. 
Serve either hot or cold. 

Broiled Ham. — Cut ham in slices of medium thickness, place 
on a hot gridiron and broil until the fat readily flows out and the 
meat is slightly browned, take from the gridiron with a knife and 
fork, drop into a pan of cold Avater, then return again to the grid- 
iron, repeat several times, and the ham is done ; place on a hot plat- 
ter, add a few lumps of butter, and serve at once. If too fat, trim 
oft a part ; it is almost impossible to broil the fat pjirt with out burn- 
ing, but this does not impair the taste. Pickled pork and breakfast 
bacon may be broiled in the same way. Or use any patent broil- 




MEATS. 525 

ers as in Broiled Meat. Eggs broken first into a saucer and then 
delicately fried in butter or clarified dripping by dipping the fat over 
them till whites are set, are nice served on broiled ham or bacon. Or 
they may be served round the meat as a garnish, and broiled or fried 
ham is sometimes served on a bed of boiled spinach. 

Fried Ham and Eggs.—Cwi the ham into thin slices and if 
particularly hard and salt, soak it about ten minutes in hot water 
M^^ ^^%y^ *^®^ ^^y ^^ ^ cloth and put over fire in cold 

^^^fe~— ---2^P^ frying-pan, and turn the slices three or four 
^ "'"'nam^^^^^^'^ times while cooking. Ham should be thorough- 
ly well done, and will need to fry at least half an hour. When done 
place on a dish and serve, a poached egg on each slice. Or keep 
the ham hot in oven, and fry the eggs in the fat in pan, dipping it 
over the eggs with a spoon to cover with the white film, and some 
turn the eggs. Take out as soon as whites are set and serve on the 
ham. Or place the slices of ham in boiling water and cook till ten- 
der ; then put in frying-pan and brown, dish on a platter, and serve 
eggs on the slices, fried as above, or as a border, with ham in center 
of platter. Very delicious. Or after cooking in water dip the slices 
of ham in flour or sifted bread-crumbs before frying. Angther way 
of serving ham is after boiling to put where it will keep warm ; then 
mix equal cmantities potatoes and cabbage, bruised well together, 
and fry in the fat left from the ham. Place the mixture on bottom 
of dish and lay the slices of ham on top. Cauliflower or broccoli 
may be substituted for cabbage. Bacon may be served same. The 
most economical way to cut a ham for broiling or frying, is to slice, 
for the same meal, from the large end as well as from the thickest 
part ; in this way a part of best and a part of the less desirable is 
brought on, and the waste of the meal is from the poorest, as the 
best is eaten first. After cutting a ham, if not to be cut from again 
soon, rub the cut side with corn meal ; this prevents the ham from 
becoming rancid, and rubs off easily when the ham is needed again. 

Frizzled Ham. — Cut the lean part of ham in thin shavings, as 
thin as possible ; soak in cold water an hour, then press the water 
out. Put a level tablespoon butter in a frying-pan and when hot put 
in a pint of the meat and fry about five minutes, stirring all the 
time ; then sprinkle over it a heaped tablespoon flour and fry till 
the flour is a 3^ellow-brown color; pour a pint sweet milk over and 
let boil one minute. , Nice for breakfast or tea. Dried beef prepared 
same way. 

Potted Ham. — Take a pound of lean to every half pound fat 
ham (or better to every quarter pound fat) and mince very fine, run 
through a sausage machine, or better, pound in a mortar; add to 
each pound and a half a small teaspoon powdered mace, quarter of 
a good-sized nutmeg, grated coarse, and a saltspoon caj^enne pepper ; 
less mace may be used and a little pounded allspice added instead j 



526 MEATS. 

a powdered bay leaf may also be added, and some like a little mus- 
tard ; mix all thoroughly and press into the dish or pot in which it 
is to be served. Bake in oven about twenty-five minutes, taking 
care that the top does not brown too much, and then press it down 
very hard using a weight of some kind. Cover the top with a thin 
coat of fresh melted lard or clarified butter, tie down with an oil-cloth 
cover or paste paper over and it will keep for months. Some cover 
and put away without baking, and others bake in baking dish, then 
pack in pots. Very nice sliced for luncheon or tea or for sandwiches. 

Steamed Ham. — Steaming is thought by many far the best way 
of cooking a ham. Lay in cold water for twelve hours ; wash very 
thoroughly, rubbing with a stiff brush to dislodge the salt and smoke 
on the outside. Put into patent steamer, or a common steamer cov- 
ered closely and set over a pot of boiling water. Allow at least 
twenty minutes to a pound, keeping the water at a hard boil. When 
done finish and garnish as Boiled Ham and serve spinach or other 
vegetables with it. 

Mam Cake. — Pound one and a half nonnds nice ham in a mor- 
tar, or pass it through a sausage maciinie. Soak a large slice ol 
bread in a half pint milk, and mix it and the ham well together. 
Add a beaten egg, put the whole into a mold and bake a rich brown. 

Ham Puffs. — One pint each water and flour, five eggs, three or 
four tablespoons chopped ham, pinch of cayenne. While water is 
boiling stir in flour, beat well and cook until the stiff" batter parts 
from the pan, then beat in the eggs one by one, and add the ham 
and seasoning ; drop in hot lard and fry until brown. A nice break- 
fast dish. 

Ham, Squares. — Make a thin batter of flour, water, two eggs 
and a little salt. Have a frying pan hot and put in it one tablespoon 
each lard and butter, or drippings. Pour in very thin layer of bat- 
ter, let fry two or three minutes, cover the batter with thin slices of 
ham, then pour a thin covering of batter over that and fry till the 
bottom is a light brown ; cut in squares, turn and fry the other side. 

Sausage. — For the various ways of making and packing saus- 
age intended for long keeping turn to Cutting and Curing Meats. 
To cook sausage that has been packed in jars take out and make 
with floured hands in small cakes and fry in pan v/ithout lard, turn- 
ing to cook both sides, or simply spread on bottom of frying-pan to 
thickness desired, and when cooked on one side cut into nice sized 
pieces and turn to finish frying. The sausage in skins should be 
pricked and put in cold frying-pan to cook slowly, or if not pricked 
fry in a little lard or dripping, and if not liked very fat, take out of 
pan when nearly done, and finish cooking on gridiron. Or a very 
neat and the most wholesome Avay of cooking is to prick them all 



MEATS. 527 

around, lay in a shallow tin, and put in oven to bake half an hour. 
Sausage and Apples are often served together. If the sausage is 
in cakes, slice the apples quite thin and fry in pan with them, serv- 
ing sausage in center of dish with apples around. If the saugage is 
in skins, fry both sausage and sliced apples by dropping in hot lard, 
frying apples until nicely browned. Serve as above, or after frying, 
put both into a pudding dish with edge of paste and bake half an hour 
in quick oven. A2)ples Staffed imth Sausage are sometimes served 
as an entree. Remove the cores from sour api)les without breaking, 
stuff with highly seasoned sausage meat, and bake until the meat is 
done in a moderate oven. Sausages are also served' on a bed or 
mound of mashed potato with apple fritters as a border, or with ap- 
ple sauce. Or send to table with pieces of toast of same size between 
the sausages. Or split the sausages in two and broil them sending 
to table on toast. Some prefer brown-bread toast for this. For 
Sausage Rolls make paste same as for pie, only not so rich ; roll 
sausage cakes in separate pastes and bake in oven till lightly browned. 
For those who object to sausage because of the fat a very delicate 
way of preparing is to mix with the sausage as taken from jars 
bread-crumbs or cracker-dust, — half and half — and some add beaten 
eggs ; make into small cakes, dredge with flour and fry. 

Balked Sausage. — Mix a good quantity bread-crumbs with 
prepared sausage meat, add an onion chopped fine, and seasoning 
to taste ; some like a little pounded cloves. Mix well and fill in deep 
baking pan, with strips of fresh pork about two inches long inserxed 
an inch apart. Bake slowly four hours. Leave in pan till perfectly 
cold. To serve, slice crosswise. 

Breaded Sausage. — Wipe the sausages dry, single-bread, put 
in frying-basket, plunge in hot fat and cook ten minutes. Serve 
with a garnish of toasted bread and parsley. 

Creoled Sausage. — Chop garlic size of pea very fine ; peel and 
slice pint of tomatoes, or use an equal quantity canned, without 
their liquor- wipe two pounds sausage with wet cloth, and prick 
with fork to prevent skins bursting while cooking ; put sausages over 
fire in dripping-pan to fry and when they begin to yield drippings, 
push to one side of pan, and put in the garlic and tomatoes ; let fry 
without mixing with the sausage ; Avhile tomatoes are frying break 
and mix them with the sausage drippings, and season rather highly 
with salt and pepper ; Avhen sausages are brown, take up tomatoes 
with a skimmer, lay on hot dish, and serve sausages on them. The 
drippings remaining in pan Avill serve as good basis for tomato sauce. 

Liver Sausage. — Mince together three-fourths pound rather 
fat bacon, one pound calf's liver and half pound bread-erurebs ; sea- 
son with pepper, salt, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, parsley, 



528 MEATS. 

thyme, a bay leaf, and add three eggs ; mix all thoroughly together, 
encase in the usual skin and fry a nice brown. 

Mutton Sausage. — Take a pound fresh mutton, or that which 
has been underdone, chop very fine and season with pepper, salt 
and beaten mace. Chop also half pound beef suet, two anchovies, 
pint oysters, quarter pound bits of dry bread, and a boiled onion ; 
mix the whole with the oyster liquor and whites and yolks of two 
well-beaten eggs ; pound the whole in a mortar, roll into lengths, 
corks or balls, and fry. 

Oyster Sausage. — Take one pound of veal and twenty oys- 
ters, bearded ; pound the veal very fine in a mortar with a little suet, 
and season with little pepper , soak a piece of bread in the oyster- 
liquor, pound, and add it, with the oysters cut in pieces, to the veal ; 
beat and add an egg to bind them together, roll into little lengths 
and fry in butter a delicate brown. Or take half pound lean mut- 
ton or beef, with three-quarters pound beef suet, and twenty-five 
oysters, bearded. Chop the whole and add bread-crumbs, with two 
yolks of eggs. Season with salt, white pepper, a little mace, and 
mushroom powder. May be put in skins and kept a day or two be- 
fore frying. 

Poidtry Sausage. — Chop very fine, or pound in mortar, equal 
parts cold fowl, cream, dried bread-crumbs, and boiled onions ; 
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; make into cakes and 
fry as any sausages. Or take the remains of boiled or roasted fowl, 
remove bones and chop fine. Boil some onions in good gravy and 
when quite soft pound them, season with salt, pepper, parsley, two 
cloves and a blade of mace ; pound the meat and add some bacon 
cut in small pieces. Mix Avith the yolk of an egg, add a little lemon 
juice or sour pickle, or chop a little sorrel with the herbs, fill into 
skins and broil, or make into little cakes and fry. Remains of rab- 
bit or other game may be prepared same. 

Veal Sausage. — Chop a half pound each lean veal and fat bacon 

very fine ; add sage, salt, pepper and allspice to taste ; beatAvell, roll 
into balls, flatten and fry. An anchovy chopped with the meat is an 
improvement. 

White Sausage. — Chop two pounds suet very fine and add a 
pint oatmeal, two or three onions boiled in milk and chopped with 
seasoning of white pepper and salt ; fill skins and cook as other 
sausage. Rice boiled in milk may be added if lilted. Sausages 
may be made of any cooked meats, chicken or rabbits ; chop the 
meat very fine, adding onions and seasonings as above, with chop- 
ped parsley and a few grains of pounded mace; or add chopped ba- 
con instead of suet, mix all together with two yolks of eggs, a few 
bread-crumbs and a few drops lemon juice ; make in little cakes or 
fill skins and broil or fry. They will keep but a few days. 



MEATS. * 529 

Sausage with Chestnuts. — Roast twenty or thirty chestnuts, 
peel and remove inner skin. Cut six thin slices sausage meat into 
diamonds and fry brown in a little fresh butter. Take them out 
and thicken butter in pan with flour, add a pint good gravy with 
two or three tablespoons any catsup liked, a bunch of herbs and salt 
and pepper to taste. When this boils put the sausage round the 
sides of pan with chestnuts in center and stew three-quarters of an 
hour. Dish with sausage as a border, pouring the gravy over all. 

Sausage Roll. — Roll a piece best puff paste out to an eighth of 
an inch in thickness ; cut in four-inch squares and lay them out on 
board ; have the sausage meat ready, break it off in pieces the size 
of a small egg, roll out three inches long and place one piece in the 
middle of each square of pastry ; wet the edge of pastry with water 
then fold over, leaving fourtii of an inch edge around the side ; wash 
with egg, taking care not to allow the egg to run down over the sides 
of the pastry. Give a few shallow cuts with a sharp knife ; then cut 
a leaf of pastrj^, place it in the center (do not wash it), and bake 
them a nice brown. If made well the edges will rise up and the roll 
will look like a book. 

Marhled Veal. — Boil a beef tongue, and same quantity lean 
veal ; grind separately in sausage cutter ; season both with pepper, 
a little mustard and pinch each of nutmeg and cloves, adding salt 
to veal Pack in alternate spoonfuls as irregularly as possible in a 
buttered crock, pressing very hard ; put in cold place, turn out 
whole and cut in slices. White meat of fowls may be used in place 
of veal. Or take a piece of veal from the round ; add loose lean 
scraps, and a bone if convenient ; cover with cold water and boil un- 
til perfectly tender ; remove the piece of meat, leaving the scraps 
and bone to stew longer. Have ready four or five hard-boiled eggs ; 
slice the cold veal, and put in the mold in layers, with sliced egg, a 
little salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, boiled ham cut in dice, and a 
slight dredging of flour ; reserve enough of the egg to make a border 
around the last layer. When mold is full press the layers gently to- 
gether and pour in the stock from kettle. If there were no scraps 
or bone for the stock, stir in a tablespoon melted gelatine for each 
pint meat ; cover mold, and bake moderately for an hour and a half 
When cold, turn from mold and serve. Thinly-sliced uncooked veal 
may be used. 

Potted Veal. — Mince veal and ham together in proportion of 
one pound veal to quarter pound ham, pound in mortar with cay- 
enne and mace to taste and sufficient fresh butter to make smooth 
paste. Press into little pots or jars and cover with clarified butter. 
Nice for breakfast or luncheon 

Veo2 Collops. — Cut two pounds leg of veal into long thin pieces 
about two inches wide, flatten them and lay on each a slice of bacon 



530 * MEATS. 

same size. Spread a highly seasoned force-meat over the bacon, 
sprinkle with cayenne, roll up tightly, skewer firmly, single-bread 
them and fry a rich brown In little butter, turning occasionally. 
When done, dish and set in oven to keep hot, while making gravy in 
pan ; flavor with lemon juice, salt, pepper and pounded mace, boil 
up once and pour over the collops. For Yeal Rolls., take slices half 
inchthich of cold veal, brush with egg and finish as above. 

Veal Curry. — Cut part of a breast of veal into pieces about three 
inches long and two Avide ; fry in butter a light brown, with an onion 
chopped fine ; while hot rub them over well with two tablespoons 
curry powder ; put into stewpan and add some good veal broth, pep- 
per, salt and butter, and stew very slowly until meat is tender. If 
wished acid, lemon juice or liquor from pickles may be added. Or 
fry the onion in butter separately, a light brown, skim out and set 
by until wanted. Fry about two pounds veal cut in small square 
pieces in same butter, stirring to brown well on all sides, add two 
tablespoons curry powder and draw pan to one side; grate an 
apple over the veal, return to fire and add half teaspoon salt, three 
gills stock and when boiling the fried onion ; again draw aside and 
leave to simmer uncovered two hours to reduce the gravy. Just be- 
fore Serving stir in two tablespoons cream and juice of half a lemon. 
Serve with the sauce poured over, and send a dish of boiled rice on 
with it. The reason for browning the onion separately is that the 
veal requires so much longer time to brown that the vegetables 
would be reduced to a crisp before the meat could be done. Lean 
mutton, rabbit and chicken may all be curried in this way. 

Yeal Cutlets. — The choicest cutlets or steaks are cut from the 
fillet or center of hind leg. For Broiled Veal Cutlets^ dredge with 
pepper and salt and dip in melted butter and sifted bread-crumbs 
twice, and broil with a piece of buttered paper between the cutlets 
and the broiler, giving them time to cook through before the bread- 
ing is brown. When nearly done remove paper and finish on the 
broiler. Serve garnished with parsley and lemon. They may be 
broiled without the paper. Or first half fry them in a little butter, 
turn white sauce over them and let stand till cold. Then dip in 
melted butter or oil, enclose in buttered paper cases with edges folded 
so that the sauce will not run out, and broil slowly twenty minutes, 
or place in oven for same time. For Fried Veal Cutlets^ make a 
batter of half pint milk, a well-beaten egg, and flour ; fry veal brown 
in sweet lard or beef-drippings, dip it in the batter and fry again till 
brown; drop spoonfuls of batter in hot lard after veal is taken up, 
and serve on top of meat ; put a little thickening in the gravy with 
salt and pepper, let it come to a boil and pour it over the whole. 
The veal should be cut thin, pounded, and cooked nearly an hour. 
Sifted bread-crumbs or cracker dust and egg may be used instead 
of batter, but the skillet should then be kept covered, and the veal 



MEATS. 531 

cooked slowly for half an hour over a moderate fire. Some season 
the crumbs with grated lemon peel, and nutmeg and a little chopped 
parsley. If a gravy is wanted, sprinkle a little flour in the pan, add 
salt and pepper and a little water, let come to a boil, and pour over 
the cutlets ; or, pound well, squeeze juice of lemon over the slices, 
let stand an hour or two, dip in beaten egg and then in fine dry 
bread-crumbs, and plunge at once into hot fat enough to cover. The 
slices will brown before they are thoroughly cooked, and the pan 
should be drawn aside to a cooler place to finish more slowly. Fry 
slices of tomato, first rolled in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, 
with the cutlets and serve as a border round them. Or turn a nice 
brown gravy over them and garnish with parsley or sliced lemon. 
Or fry slices of ham first, then fry the breaded cutlets in same fat, 
and arrange on dish with alternate slices overlapping each other, 
spreading the ham with butter mixed with a little mustard, and the 
veal with butter melted with a little tart jelly. Or fry and serve 
with nice slices of salt pork. Some cooks parboil before frying 
either in clear water or put with them a piece of nice pork, clove of 
garlic, bunch of thyme and parsley, pepper and salt, cover with 
water and stew ten or fifteen minutes, take out and cool, then bread 
and fry. Nice with mushroom sauce. For Maryland Cutlets, cut 
two pounds fillet of veal into small round pieces and place in frying- 
pan with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of white pepper and 
salt. Cook the meat over a slow fire five minutes in order to whiten 
it, turning the pieces and do not let the butter brown. Draw pan 
from fire and sprinkle over the meat a tablespoon chopped pars- 
ley, half dozen mushrooms and a shallot also chopped ; melt in sep- 
arate saucepan a tablespoon butter, stir in a tablespoon flour, add 
by degrees a half pint white stock, bring all to a boil, pour over the 
veal in frying-pan and cook slowly twenty minutes, turning the 
meat constantly to prevent coloring too much. When done take 
up the meat on flat dish and stir into sauce yolks of two eggs beaten 
with tablespoon cream, simmer slowly till thick and turn over the 
cutlets which must have been kept hot. 

Veal Fricandelles. — Cook one cup each milk and bread-crumbs 
until a smooth paste ; add two pounds lean veal, finely chopped, half 
cup chopped ham, cup butter, salt and pepper to taste, and juice of half 
a lemon. Mix thoroughly and form into balls size of an egg, dip 
the balls in beaten yolks of three eggs and brown them in butter. 
When all are cooked, stir through the butter in pan three table- 
spoons flour, add gradually a pint and a half beef stock, and boil 
two minutes. Put the balls in this and cook very slowly one hour. 
Serve with toast and lemon. Fricandelles can be made with chicken, 
mutton, lamb, or beef, but the ham must be omitted. 

Yeal Fricassee. — Put piece of butter size of an ^^^^ into a ket- 
tle, and when it begins to fry, put in the veal, season and fry brown; 



532 ■ MEATS. 

then add water sufficient to cook it. When done thicken with cream 
and flour as for Chicken Fricassee, and the dish will be very like 
chicken and much cheaper. Two pounds of veal will make a dinner 
for six or eight if not too much bone. Or cut the veal in nice sized 
slices and fry in melted butter until firm but not colored ; dredge a 
tablespoon flour over them, add a little grated lemon peel, and grad- 
ually as much boiling veal stock as will cover the meat ; simmer un- 
til tender. Take out meat and add to the gravy a gill of boiling 
cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch powdered mace. Beat yolks of 
two eggs in a bowl ; add gradually a little of the sauce, after it has 
cooled a few minutes, then add it carefully to the remainder. Re- 
turn the meat to the sauce, and let the saucepan remain near the 
fire until eggs are set. Add juice of half a lemon and serve. 

Veal Loaf. — Three pounds leg or loin of veal and three-fourths 
pound salt pork, chopped finely together ; roll one dozen crackers, 
put half of them in the veal with two eggs, season with pepper and 
a little salt if needed ; mix all together and make into a solid form ; 
then take the crackers that are left and spread smoothly over the 
outside ; bake one hour, basting occasionally, and serve cold in 
slices. Beef Loaf is made same. Some pack in deep baking dish 
and season with cinnamon, sage, celery, summer savory or nutmeg, 
and bake. This is also called Veal Pate. For Yeal Cakes make 
the same mixture into little cakes or balls and fry in kettle of hot fat. 
Lean pork may be used if the veal is fat, and some use only veal. 

Yeal Olives. — Take the bone out of fillet and cut thin slices any 
size wished, beat them flat, rub with beaten yolk of egg, lay on each 
piece a thin slice of boiled ham, sprinkle salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, 
chopi^ed parsley, and brea.d-crumbs over all, roll up tight, and secure 
with skewers, single-bread, lay in dripping-pan, and set in oven ; 
whenbrov/n on one side, turn, and when sufficiently done, put them 
in a rich highly seasoned gravy and stew till tender. Take out 
skewers and serve, garnished with Force-meat Balls and green pickles, 
sliced. Or take one and a half pounds of veal, trim off the edges 
and fat, cut in strips three inches wide and four long, season to taste 
with salt and pepper ; chop the trimmings and fat, add three table- 
spoons cracker dust, salt and pepper, and butter enough to mix ; 
spread this over the strips of meat, roll and tie in shape, and dredge 
well with flour. Fry them brown in pork fat and put them in an- 
other pan that can be covered. In the fat stir one tablespoon flour, 
brown, add a pint beef broth, stir for two or three minutes, and pour 
all over the olives ; cover and let all simmer two hours. To serve, 
cut the strings, place olives on the dish and pour the gravv over. 
Beef Olives made the same, adding teaspoon sage and summer 
savory to the dressing. 



MEATS. 533 

Veal Oysters. — Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into 
pieces the size of an oyster. Rub a seasoning of pepper, salt and a 
little mace mixed over each piece ; single-bread and fry as oysters. 

Yeal Pie. — Cut two pounds cutlets into square pieces, and sea- 
son with pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; put in a pudding dish with 
two tablespoons minced savory herbs sprinkled over, and one or two 
slices of lean bacon or ham placed on top ; if possible this should be 
previously cooked, as undressed bacon makes the veal red, and spoils 
its appearance. Pour in a little water, cover with crust, ornament 
as fancied ; brush over with yolk of an egg, and bake in a well heat- 
ed oven for about one and 'one-half hours. Pour in a good gravy 
after baking, which is done by removing the top ornament, and re- 
placing it after the gravy is added. For a Yeal and Ham Fie., cut 
the veal and ham in thin slices, lay a slice of ham, about one-third 
the slice of the veal on the latter, season with seasoning as above, 
and roll them up and place them in the dish, add water and chopped 
(not sliced) hard-boiled eggs, place on the crust and bake in a mod- 
erate heat, the same as for Beefsteak Pie. If the ham is very salt 
use less salt and more pepper in the seasoning. Parsley is' a great 
favorite generally with veal. Those wishing it can add it ; also force- 
meat balls. Catsup, either mushroom or tomato or a little Worces- 
tershire sauce, may also be added. Some are very fond of sausage 
meat added to the veal pie ; but all these are mere matters of taste. 
For a Yeal and Oyster Pie procure a pound flank or neck of veal, 
cut in small pieces and stew until tender in just enough water to 
cover. Chop an onion with a little parsley and add with the pork 
also cut up, salt and pepper and last a spoonful of thickening and a 
cup milk. Take from fire and turn it into a shallow pan that will 
hold one and one-half or two quarts. Then scatter a cup oysters and^ 
their liquor over the top, sprinkle a little more pepper and a dust of 
flour from the dredger, and cover with a crust. Bake about half an 
hour. The crust may be made by rubbing a small cup minced suet 
with a heaping cup flour and a pinch salt, and mixing with luke- 
warm water, or with lard and flour in about the same measures, mix- 
ed up very cold. 

Yeal Pot-Pie. — Put two or three pounds veal (a piece with ribs 
is good), cut in a dozen pieces, in a quart cold water; make a 
quart soda-biscuit dough; take two-thirds of dough, roll to a fourth 
of an inch thick, cut in strips one inch wide by three long ; pare and 
slice six potatoes ; boil veal till tender, take out all but three or four 
pieces, put in two handfuls of potatoes and several strips of dough, 
then add pieces of veal and dough, seasoning with salt, pepper, and 
a little butter, until all the veal is in pot ; add boiling water enough 
to cover, take rest of dough, roll out to size of pot, cut several holes 
to let steam escape, and place over the whole. Pat on atight lid 
and boil gently twenty or thirty minutes without xmcovering. Or, 



534 - MEATS. 

cut a half pound salt pork in thin slices about an inch square and 
fry brown ; cut three pounds breast of veal in two-inch slices, season 
with salt and pepper, and roll in flour ; when pork is brown add veal 
to it, stir together over fire for two minutes ; pour over a quart boil- 
ing water, season with two teaspoons salt and a saltspoon pepper, 
and cook slowly until the veal is tender. Meantime, peel two quarts 
potatoes, and slice rather thin ; leave half in cold water until the 
veal is cooked, and boil the rest in salted boiling water until soft 
enough to be rubbed through a colanderwith a potato-masher ; while 
rubbng them through the colander, add two tablespoons butter, and 
mix with them about half a pint milk and sufficient flour to form a 
paste Avhich can be rolled and cut out. When the veal is tender lay 
a piece of this potnto paste about an inch thick in the bottom of a 
deep earthen pudding-dish, and fill the dish with alternate layers of 
veal and raw sliced potatoes. Pour into the dish the broth in w^hich 
the veal was cooked, lay on the top the rest of the potato paste, 
brush it with beaten egg, and set the dish in a hot oven until the 
paste is brown. Serve pot-pie hot in dish in which it is cooked. 

Veal Roll. — Spread a thin veal cutlet with a dressing of bread- 
crumbs, moistened with a little melted butter, and seasoned lightly 
with salt, pepper and summer savory ; roll the cutlet up, tie with a 
fine cord; bake till done, basting thoroughly; when cold, remove 
the cord and cut into slices. 

Veal Stew. — Have bones of breast of veal cracked, so that it 
can be easily carved, dust with flour, put over the fire in a dripping- 
pan containing enough hot butter to prevent burning, and brown it 
quickly on both sides ; pour over enough Doiling water to cover, 
season with a teaspoon of salt and a dust of cayenne pepper, turn 
another pan over it, and stew it gently for an hour ; meantime shell 
green pease enough to cover it ; after the veal has cooked an hour put 
in the pease and cook them until tender, then serve them with the 
veal laid on them, first seasoning both palatably. Or rice may be 
boiled and served with it instead of the pease. Or boil two and a 
half pounds of breast of veal one hour in water enough to cover ; add 
a dozen potatoes, and cook half an hour ; before taking off* stove, add 
pint milk and flour enough to thicken ; season to taste. If preferred 
make a crust as for chicken-pie, bake in two pie pans, place one of 
the crusts on the platter, pour over the stew, and place the other on top. 
For another stew, take best end of a neck ; cut in pieces, season with 

salt and pepper, and stew in just 
enough water to cover; when done, 
make a gravy with flour and butter 
,,i stirred together, and add the water 
■ in which the veal was stewed, sea- 
stewed Knuckle of Teal. soui ug to tastc. For Steioed Knuckle 
of Veal, cook whole as in first recipe and serve on a bed of pease. 




MEATS. 535 

For Stewed Fillet of Veal, procure a small, fat fillet, remove the 
bone, and stuff it with half pint bread-crumbs, mixed with two ounces 
suet, a little parsley, chopped onion, lemon-thyme, grated lemon 
peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Reserve some of the dressing, moisten 
it a little, make into small balls, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in 
deep lard. Skewer the fillet nicely, and put in kettle, with plate 
underneath to prevent sticking ; add a carrot and onion sliced, pep- 
per-corns, salt, and mace ; cover with cold water, and stew slowly. 
Take up when done, strain a pint of the liquor for gravy, and thicken 
with four tablespoons flour, rubbed smooth with two tablespoons 
butter, and add enough cream to make i„ a rich white. Or the meat 
maybe glazed. Garnish with the balls and thin slices of lemon; 
pour the gravy over the veal. Loin of veal maybe stewed same way. 
For Creoled Veal take six pounds fat veal, and cut in pieces about 
the size for stewing; sprinkle with flour, and fry brown. In same 
vessel cut up and fry one onion and two cloves of garlic ; add one 
pint prepared tomatoes, one teaspoon each pepper and salt. When 
nearly done, cut up and add a sprig of parsley. Will require two 
and one half or three hours slow cooking. 

Blanquette of Veal. — Cut three pounds breast of veal in pieces 
two inches square ; put in enough cold water to cover, with teaspoon 
white pepper, teaspoon salt, bunch of sweet herbs, half a carrot 
scraped, a turnip peeled, and an onion stuck with three cloves ; bring 
slowly to a boil, skim carefully and cook gently thirty or forty min- 
utes, till the veal is tender ; then drain it, returning broth to fire, 
and washing the meat in cold water. Meantime make a white sauce 
by stirring together over the fire tablespoon each butter and flour, 
till smooth, adding pint and a half of the broth gradually; season 
with more salt and pepper if required, and quarter saltspoon grated 
nutmeg ; when the sauce has boiled up well, stir in with egg-w^hip yolks 
of two raw eggs, put in the meat and cook five minutes, stirring oc- 
casionally ; a few mushrooms are a great improvement, or it may be 
served with two tablespoons choi)ped parsley sprinkled over after it 
is put on a hot plater. 

Boiled Breast of Veal. — If the sweet-bread is to be boiled with 
the veal, let it soak in water two hours ; then skewer it to the veal ; 
put into a saucepan, with boiling water to cover, let it boil up, and 
carefully remove the scum as it rises ; add a handful chopped pars- 
ley, teaspoon pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Draw 
it back, and simmer gently till done. Serve on a hot dish, and pour 
a little good onion sauce or parsley sauce over it. Send boiled ba- 
con to table on a separate dish. 

Braised Fillet of Veal. — Lard the top of the fillet with bacon 
as thickly as possible. Cut a carrot, turnip and head of celery into 
small pieces and put into a braising, or ordinary copper saucepan. 
Pour one and one-half pints stock over them, add a few pepper-corns 



636 MKATS. 

and teaspoon salt, and lay the fillet upon the vegetables which should 
be arranged thickl}^ enough to lift the meat quite above the stock. 
Place the braising-pan over a quick fire, and baste the fillet constant- 
ly until the stock boils ; then cover the fillet vath a sheet of kitchen 
paper, cut to the size of the braising-pan, close the lid of pan and 
place in a quick oven, where let remain for an hour and a quarter. 
While in the oven the lid of the pan and the paper covering should 
be raised and the fillet basted frequently with the stock. Cook an 
hour and a half, take up the meat on a hot platter and put the brais- 
ing-pan over a quick fire, until the stock is reduced to half the quan- 
tity, when it should be poured through a strainer around the meat 
and all sent quickly to the table. Braise any other part of veal same. 

Fricandeau of Veal. — The veal for a fricandcau should be of 
best quality, or it will not be good. Take off skin, flatten veal on 
table, then, at one stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, 
for a fricandeau with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, 
and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle, that it 
may taste more of the seasoning ; lard it thickly with fat bacon, 
Slice two carrots and two large onions, a bunch sweet herbs, two 
blades pounded mace, six whole allspice, two bay leaves and pepper 
to taste, in the middle of a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon on top ; 
forming a sort of mold in center for the veal to rest upon. Lay the 
fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over it a little salt, and pour in 

i'ust enough stock to cover the bacon, etc., without touching the veal. 
5ring gradually to a boil, then put it over a slow fire, and simmer 
very gently for about two and a half hours, or longer should it be 
very large Baste frequently with the liquor, and a short time be- 
fore serving, put it into a brisk oven, to make bacon firm, which 
otherwise would break when it was glazed. Dish fricandeau, keep 
it hot, skim off fat from liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze,with 
which glaze the fricandeau, and sarve with a puree of whatever vege- 
table happens to be in season — spijiach, sorrel, asparagus, cucum- 
ber, pease, etc. Or, for a more economical dish, cut away the lean 
part of the best end of neck of veal with sharp knife, scooping it 
from the bones. Put the bones over the fire with enough water to 
moisten the fricandeau and stew an hour. Lard the veal and place 
in kettle on top of bacon and vegetables as above, pour gravy from 
bones over, taking care that it does not touch the veal, stew very 
gently three hours, glaze, and serve as above. Or, some use a slice 
from the fillet two inches thick and after larding fry it brown on all 
sides in a little butter, with the sliced onion and carrot and teaspoon 
each pepper and summer savory ; then add a half pint stock and 
bake in oven till done, basting often. Serve wdth strained gravy 
from pan poured over, thickened if liked. 

Orenadines of Veal. — Cut two pounds fillet of veal into oval 
pieces about half an inch thick and lard with thin strips of bacons 



MEATS. 537 

cook in a pint white stock with a carrot, turnip and onion cut in 
small pieces, and finish as above, browning in oven, and turning re- 
duced and strained gravy over. 

Quenelles of Veal. — Cut a pound fillet of veal into small pieces 
and pound in a mortar, then put through a sieve, add a tablespoon 
butter and two of flour and stir in two well-beaten eggs and a gill of 
stock with a seasoning of pepper and salt and any spices liked. 
Make into balls or any shapes desired with floured hands and put in 
a ftying-pan carefully, to preserve their shape ; pour in at the side 
as much boiling water as will cover the quenelles, place over a slow 
fire and poach ten minutes. Melt in a small saucepan a tablespoon 
butter, stir in two tablespoons flour, add by degrees a gill of stock 
and let all boil. When boiling, pour in a gill of cream, season with 
pepper and salt, take from fire and add teaspoon lemon juice. Ar- 
range quenelles in a circle upon aflat dish, andpourthe sauce around 
them. When a mortar is not at hand parboil the veal in a little 
boiling stock and chop fine before putting through the sieve. 

Rissoles of Veal. — Remove skin from one pound fillet of veal, 
chop it very fine and pound well in a mortar. Put into a bowl three- 
quarters pint bread-crumbs, pour a half pint milk over, and soak ten 
minutes ) put the bread-crumbs in a towel and squeeze as dry as 
possible. Then mix the crumbs with the pounded veal, season with 
saltspoon powdered mace, half teaspoon each pepper and salt, drop 
in yolks of two eggs, and beat together with a quarter pound finely 
chopped suet. Roll into small balls, dip each in beaten Avhites of 
two eggs, then into sifted bread-crumbs and fry about ten minutes 
in hot fat. Make a sauce of half pint white stock, thickened with 
melted butter and flour made smooth, season to taste and serve ris- 
soles on hot platter with sauce poured over. Prepare cold veal same. 

Roast Fillet of Veal. — Rub two tablespoons salt and half tea- 
spoon pepper into the veal ; then fill the cavity from which the bone 
was taken,with Ham Force-meat or an}'^ stuffing liked ; skewer and tie 

the fiiret in round shape. Cut a 
half pound salt pork in thin slices, 
and put half on a tin sheet that 
will fit in dripping-pan ; place this 
in pan, and fillet on it ; cover veal 
FiuefSfVeai. "^i^^ remainder of pork; put hot 

water enough in pan to just cover the bottom, and place in oven. 
Bake slowly four hours, basting frequently with gravy in pan, season 
with salt and white pepper. As v/ater in pan cooks away, it must 
be renewed, remembering to have only enough to keep meat and pan 
from burning. After cooking three hours, take pork from top of 
fillet and spread thickly with butter and dredge with flour. Repeat 
this after thirty minutes, and then brown handsomely. Put about 




538 MEATS. 

three tablespoons butter in saucepan and when hot add two heaping 
tablespoons flour, and stir until dark brown. Add to it a half pint 
stock or water , stir a minute, and set back where it will keep warm, 
but not cook. Take up fillet, and skim all fat off gravy ; add water 
enough to make a half pint gravy, also the sauce just made. Let 
this boil up, and add the juice of half a lemon, and more salt and 
pepper, if needed. Strain, and pour around the fillet. Garnish the 
dish with potato pufi"s and slices of lemon. 

Roast Loin of Veal. — Wash and rub thoroughly with salt and 
pepper, leaving in the kidney, around which put plenty of salt ; roll 
up, let stand two hours ; in the meantime make a dressing of bread- 
crumbs, salt, pepper and chopped parsley or thyme moistened with 
a little hot water and butter — some prefer chopped salt pork — add- 
ing an egg. Unroll the veal, put dressing well around kidney, fold, 
and secure well with several yards white cotton twine, covering the 
meat in all directions ; place in the dripping-pan with the thick side 
down, put to bake in a rather hot oven, graduating it to moderate 
heat afterward ; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan and 
baste often ; in another half hour turn roast, and when nearly 
done, dredge lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. Before 
serving, carefully remove the twine. A four-pound roast thus pre- 
pared will bake tender in about two hours. To make the gravy, skim 
off" fat if there is too much in the drippings, dredge some flour in the 
pan, stir until it browns, add some hot water if necessary, boil a few 
moments and serve in gravy-boat. This roast is very nice to slice 
down cold for Sunday dinners. Serve with green pease and lemon 
jelly. The loin is also roasted on a bed of vegetables, as beef, and 
may be stuffed with a Veal Force-meatinsteadof the bread dressing. 
Some prefer to apply a mixture of melted butter and flour, twice as 
much of the former as the latter, to the veal in cooking, using a pastry 
brush in putting it on. The breast of veal boned, with a layer of 
force-meat spread over the inside, rolled and tightly bound is nice 
roasted same. For a plain roast loin have every joint thoroughly 
cut, and between each lay -a slice of salt pork ; roast a fine brown, so 
that the edges of the pork will be crisp, basting often ; season with 
pepper — the pork will make it salt enough. The shoulder may be 
roasted, with bone removed and stuffed, same as loin or fill the bone 
cavity with onions, peeled and sliced, seasoned with salt and pepper ; 
or equal quantities of bread-crumbs and onions may be used. Nicely 
peeled and rounded potatoes may be baked in pan Avith roast veal, 
turning to brown both sides. Serve shoulder with grav}^ as above. 

Veal loith Oysters. — Fry two pounds tender veal cut in thin 
bits, and dredged with flour, in sufficient hot butter or lard to pre- 
vent sticking; when nearly done add one and a half pints fine oys- 
ters, thicken with flour, season with salt and pepper, and cook until 
done. Serve hot in covered dish. 



MEATS. 539 

CalPs Brains. — For cleaning and blanching brains preparatory 
to cooking follow directions given in Cutting and Curing Meats, 
As the whiter and finer they are the more delicate the dish, the pro- 
cess called double-blanching is recommended, Sheep's brains are 
equally as nice as calf's, and those of beef may be used but are 
coarser and more inclined to be tough or string^^ Broth from the 
head should be utilized for making the gravy to accompany dishes 
of brains and gives a much richer ilavor than if of milk or water. 

Scramhled Brains. — Double-blanch them. To the beaten yolks 
of four eggs add a little chopped parsle}^, the brains crumbled in 
small pieces and the well-frothed whites. Stir in frying-pan, in 
wbich a little butter or fat has been heated, like scrambled eggs. 
Nice served on toast, and rendered yet more excellent by pouring 
some good, well seasoned gravy over all. 

Stewed Brains. — Put two or three slices bacon in stewpan with 
the brains, an onion stuck with two cloves, small bunch parsley, and 
seasoning of pepper and salt; covei with some of the broth, and 
boil gently about twenty-five minutes. Have ready some croutons, 
arrange in dish alternately with the brains, and place in oven to keep 
warm. Add to brotli in stewpan, an onion sliced and fried in a little 
butter, enough more broth to make one pint liquid, bunch of sweet 
herbs, half a bay leaf, two allspice, a clove, salt and pepper. Simmer 
gently a few minutes, skim out spices, etc., and add tablespoon lem- 
on juice or vinegar and a few stewed mushrooms, if liked, and pour 
at once over the dish of brains Butter may be used instead of ba- 
con. The croutons want to be the same size of the brains, and a 
more elaborate sauce may be made called Supreme Sauce : Take 
one quart white sauce, a few musb rooms and two quarts chicken 
broth, boil carefully and quickly till reduced to two quarts. Add 
the yolks of six eggs, and strain. Return to saucepan and boil up 
once ; add juice of a lemon and a little butter and pour immediately 
over the prepared brains. 

Brain fritters. — Boil brains in a cloth, chop fine, and beat up 
with an egg, teaspoon flour, three tablespoons sweet milk, and little 
nutmeg; have ready a frying-pan of hot lard, and drop in the mix- 
ture so as to make the fritters size of a half dollar. Or divide the 
brains in small pieces, dip in fritter batter (see Fritters) and fry as 
above ; or when perfectly cold beat the brains to a paste, add eggs 
and flour to make good batter, scant teaspoon fresh, sweet butter, to 
j)revent toughness, and fry as Fritters, or on a griddle like cakes. 
They are also nice single-breaded and fried as Brain Croquettes, 
either by immersion or in little butter or drippings. They will look 
like sweet-breads and are quite as delicate. Some soak before frying 
in a mixture of oil, salt and vinegar, drying with a cloth and frying 
as above, prepared in any of above ways. They are delicious served 
surrounded by cooked pease, either fresh or canned. 



540 MEATS. 

Brains and Tongue. — Blanch and chop the hrains, and put in 
saucepan with two tablespoons butter, a little chopped parsley, juice 
of half a lemon, salt and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim the boiled 
tongue, place in middle of dish and pour the sauce and brains round 
it. If liked a tablespoon each chopped parsley, capers and gherkins, 
and teaspoon very finely chopped onion may be added to the sauce. 
Garnish with parsley, mace, pickles or slices of lemon. Or, after 
blanching put the brains in quart cold water with teaspoon salt and 
tablespoon vinegar and boil fifteen minutes, and when cold serve 
with a cold tongue, the latter in center of dish and brains cut in two 
and placed at the sides. Pour tartare sauce round them and garn- 
ish as above. For Brain and Tongue Pudding Ame a baking dish 
with good paste and put in a layer of thinly-sliced cooked 
tongue, then a layer of chopped brain, add a seasoning of salt, pep- 
per, a little chopped onion and parsley. Do this alternately till 
dish is filled. On the top put shces of hard-boiled egg ; moisten by 
adding a teaspoon flour mixed smoothly in a quarter pint milk. 
Steam an hour or bake half an hour. A fresh cucumber, pared and 
sliced, may be put in the pudding, if liked. 

Calfs Ears. — Take a couple of calf's ears that h-ave been cut 
off deeplv from head, trim nicely, scald off hair, and cleanse very 
thoroughly. Drain on sieve, and then boil in milk and water till 
tender. Fill the insides with nicely prepared Veal Force-meat, tie 
them, and stew half an hour in a pint stock seasoned with pepper, 
salt, and an onion stuck with three cloves. Drain again and add to 
the liquor in which they were boiled twelve stewed mushrooms, 
yolk of an egg beaten in cup cream, and remove the onion and cloves. 
Dish up the ears, pour the sauce round them, and garnish with force- 
meat balls and slices of lemon. A very pretty side entree. Or they 
may be served without sauce, and merely eaten with oil and vinegar. 

Calfs Feet — Clean as directed for Pig's Feet ; blanch and boil 
till tender, and for Fricaseed Feet., cut in two and take out bones ; 
to half pint good white gravy, add tablespoon each flavored vinegar 
lemon pickle, salt and teaspoon curry powder; stew the feet in it 
fifteen minutes, and thicken with yolks of two eggs, gill of milk, a 
tablespoon butter and two of white flour; shake the stewpan over 
the fire a few minutes, but do not boil or the eggs and milk Avill 
curdle. Save liquor feet were boiled in for enriching gravies, making 
glaze, jellies, etc. The feet of sheep and beef may be cooked same 
as calf's, but are not so nice. Any of them may be cooked like recipes 
for Pig's Feet. For Fried i^e^?!, prepare as for Fricasseed Feet, then 
cut in two-inch pieces, dredge well with flour and fry a light brown 
in butter or drippings ; put a little chopped parsley and butter over 
and garnish with fried parsley. Some press the feet under a weight 
overnight before frying. They are nice also dipped in fritter batter 
and fried in hot fat ; or seasoned with salt, cayenne, chopped pars- 



MEATS. 



541 



ley, single-breaded and fried as Feet Croquettes. Drain, dish on a 
napkin and garnish with parslej''. A nice dish is made of Stewed 
Feet. Procure four calf's or twelve sheep's feet; prepare as above. 
Take out large bones. Put a quarter pound beef or mutton suet in 
stewpan with two onions and a carrot sliced, two sprigs of thyme, 
two bay leaves, plenty of salt and pepper and simmer five minutes. 
Add two tablespoons flour, two and a half quarts water, and stir till 
it boils ; put in the feet, simmer three hours, or until perfectly ten- 
der,take them out and lay on a sieve. Mix together on a plate with l^iack 
of spoon tablespoon each butter and flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg and 
juice of one lemon. Put the feet, w>.th a gill of milk, into a stewpan, 
and when very hot, add the butter, etc., and stir till melted. Mix 
yolks of two eggs with five tablespoons milk and add to other in- 
gredients, keep stirring over the fire a minute or two, but do not boil 
after eggs are added. Serve in deep dish. Or take out the bones 
without injuring the skin, stuff them with a fine force-meat and stew 
half an hour in some of the stock, which must be well flavored with 
onion season with pepper and salt and a little sauce ; reduce to a 
glaze, and brush it over the feet. Serve with any stewed vegetable. 

Calfs Head. — Comparatively few housekeepers knowhowmany 
really dainty dishes can be prepared from calfs head. For hints as 
to purchasing, turn to Marketing, and for directions for cleaning, 
blanching, skinning, boning, etc., see Cutting and Curing Meats. 
Almost every part of the head can be used, though there is some 
tough white meat about the mouth to be removed, a small part 
around the eye, and some bits of gristle. The water or broth in 
which the head has been boiled should be saved for soup, though a 
part of it is of course used for making the gravy which accompanies 
the dish. Lamb's or Sheep's head can be cooked the same as calf's, 
after any of the recipes given, the meat from two of the former 
about equaling that from one of the latter. Beef's head may also 
be used, but must be soaked in salted water overnight, will require 
longer boiling and will not of course make so delicate a dish. Only 
half the meat from a beef's head will be required in recipes where 
that of a calf's is given. To give the desired acid flavor generally 
liked with calf's head use the sour cooking wine of foreign manu- 
facture or any of the flavored vinegars preferred (see Pickles). 

Balied Head. — After blanching, halve the head carefully, cutting 
down between the ears, lay in dripping-pan, cover with bread-crumbs 
and melted butter, and bake in hot oven, basting frequently. Make 
a sauce of drawn butter, chopped hard-boiled eggs, the mashed 
brain, a little red pepper, and some parsley. When the head is 
done, serve on a flat dish, smothered in the sauce. Some prefer to 
brush the head over with two beaten yolks of eggs before covering 
with bread-crumbs, and sprinkle over also powdered mace, nutmeg, 
and pepper and salt ; put the brains in with the head, first dipping 




542 MEATS. 

in melted butter ; put a little good gravy, stock, or water if neither 
is at hand, in pan, cover closely and bake in hot oven, removing 
cover long enough before done to brown nicely. Serve with a sauce 
poured round it, made as follows : Slightly brown two or three sliced 
onions or shallots in butter ; add tablespoon flour, some brown gravy 
or stock, a carrot thinly sliced, little chopped parsley, bay leaf, rind 
and juice of half a lemon, white pepper, and salt. Simmer all one 
half hour, and pass through coarse strainer. Put back in sauce pan, 
heat through, and add small piece butter, tablespoon any flavored 
vinegar liked, lump of sugar, and more lemon juice and cayenne if 
not piquant in taste. Or garnish with sliced lemons and send on 
with it any good gravy liked in a boat. For Stuffed Calfs Head^ 
procure a head cut off about a finger length behind the ears, with 
the skin unbroken, sew up the places from which the eyes have 
been removed, salt it well outside and in and set aside while mak- 
ing the stuffing. Boil a smoked 
beet's tongue, the fresh calfs tongue 
and some mushrooms till soft, chop 
fine and add sufficient rich white 
sauce to make a smooth dressing, and __^^ 
put on ice till very cold ; chop fine cau's 'neaiil* 

three pounds cooked veal with dried herbs, sage, parsley, etc. Open 
the head on the under side and put in half the veal, then the dress- 
ing prepared as above, and fill up with remainder of veal. Sew the 
edges of the opening together and close the back of head or neck by 
sewing on a piece of bacon cut to fit. Rub all over with lemon juice 
and cover with very thin slices of bacon, wrap in a cloth and bind 
well with a network of twine. Put in a pan with half pint each vine- 
gar and water, cover with another pan, or put in a closed roasting 
pan, and bake in slow oven two or three hours. When done take off 
cloth and bacon, dredge with flour and let brown. Serve on platter 
garnished with parsley, or with mushrooms and potato balls, and 
send on with it a good rich gravy. 

Boiled Head. — Put in a kettle, cover with hot water, let boil a 
few minutes and skim carefully ; then place where it will simmer 
gently until tender. Serve with drawn butter and parsley and garn- 
ish with slices of lemon. Or for Browned Head., boil as above and 
when tender score the surface by making slight cuts over it an inch 
and a half apart, cover Avith beaten yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, 
mixed powdered thyme and parsley and pepper and salt. Set in 
oven to brown, and when it begins to look brown baste once with a 
little melted butter. Garnish with thin slices of bacon, curled. The 
water in which the head is boiled should be kept for soup. Another 
nice way of preparing is to blanch, drain and tie head and brains in 
cloth and boil in salted water until bones can be removed ; the 
brains will be done sooner and must be taken out. Take meat from 
bones and put with the onions in deep buttered dish, season with 



MEATS. 543 

pepper, salt and spices to taste, put bits of butter over and dust with 
flour. Pour half pint of the broth with four tablespoons flavored 
vinegar over the meat and bake three-quarters of an hour, or until 
very brown, basting well. For Molded Head., cut the meat from the 
boiled head into thin slices, or any remains will do. Butter a tin 
mold, cut yolks of hard-boiled eggs in half and put some of them 
around the edge in any shapes fancied, sprinkle salt, pepper, mixed 
spice, and chopped parsley over, then put in the meat of the head 
with thin slices of ham or bacon in layers, adding occasionally more 
eggs and spice till all of head is used. Pour in half pint good white 
gravy, cover the top with a thin paste of flour and water, and bake 
three-quarters of an hour. Take off the paste, and when cold, turn 
out of the mold and serve. Or, chop the meat and eggs fine and 
pack in mold in alternate layers, and pour the gravy over, which 
may be flavored with a little lemon juice, minced parsley and catsup. 

Broiled Head. — Cut a blanched calf's head into pieces three 
inches wide, place in a saucepan, cover with water, add four table- 
spoons vinegar, and simmer half an hour ; then put in cold water a 
few minutes, dry on a towel, rub a little salad-oil over each piece, 
and broil. When done, brush melted butter over them and juice of 
half a lemon. 

Collared Head. — Bone a calf's head carefully, wash it well, and 
wipe dry ; lay the meat on table, and spread on it a force-meat made 
of the brain and tongue and a very little ham mixed with a table- 
spoon chopped parsley, teaspoon each thyme and marjoram, chop- 
ped yolks of three hard-boiled eggs,tablespoon or two flavored vinegar, 
a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. Roll up as tightly as possible, ancl 
tie in a cloth, binding with tape. Put in saucepan with stock enough 
to cover ; a carrot, parsnip, onion, sliced lemon, a few bay leaves, 
salt, and a dozen bruised peppers, and boil gently three hours ; then 
take it out of the cloth, dish and pour round it a sauce made of a 
pint of the liquid in which it was boiled, with a little lemon juice, 
two small pickles, and four button mushrooms chopj^ed fine. Some 
boil the head about two hours before removing the bones, and an- 
other way of collaring is to sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, 
then a layer of thick slices of ham, then yolks of six hard-boiled 
eggs cut in thin rings, and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nut- 
meg and white pepper between each layer ; roll in a cloth as above 
and boil four hours ; when taken out of the pot, place a heavy weight 
on top and let remain till cold ; then remove the cloth and binding, 
and serve sliced cold with any salad or dressing liked. Some spread 
simply with alternate layers of sliced ham and chopped parsley 
seasoned with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt. If to be kept more 
than a day or two, place in jar and cover with vinegar and water. 

Fricasseed Head. — Remove all bones from a boiled head and 
cut the meat into nice square pieces or slices. Put a pint and a half 



544 MEATS. 

of liquor in which head was boiled in saucepan with blade of pounded 
mace, a chopped onion, bunch savory herbs, and salt and white 
pepper to taste ; simmer gently three-quarters of an hour, strain and 
put in the meat, and four hard-boiled eggs, sliced, if liked ; when 
heated through, thicken gravy with a little flour made smooth with 
butter, and flavor with a tablespoon mushroom catsup ; or, just be- 
fore dishing, add beaten yolks ol two eggs and tablespoon lemon 
juice ; be careful after these are added that the mixture does not 
boil or the eggs will curdle. To insure the sauce being smooth take 
up the meat before adding eggs and when the eggs are set turn the 
sauce over the meat. Garnish with Force-meat Balls and curled 
slices of broiled bacon Or omit all seasonings save the pepper and 
salt and add a halt teaspoon grated nutmeg, garnishing with parsley 
or sliced lemon, or sprinkling chopped parsley over. Some put in 
with the meat the cold boiled tongue, sliced, and gflrnish with Brain 
Fritters and curled bacon. Two anchovies may be boiled with the 
onion, which is sometimes left whole and stuck with three cloves, 
omitting the herbs. Sweet-breads, if at hand, may be sliced and put 
in with the meat. Both the brains and feet may be used in a fricas- 
see as follows : Remove the brains and put the head and feet in salted 
water, and boil two hours. When the}^ have boiled nearly an hour 
and a half, tie the blanched brains in a cloth and put them in the 
pot with the rest. At end of two hours take the whole from the fire, 
mash the brains fine with the back of a spoon, season with pepper 
and salt, add bread-crumbs, tablespoon flavored vinegar, and serve 
them as a sauce for the meat. Send to table very hot. The liquor 
that remains can be made into an excellent soup. 

Potted Head. — Procure half a head and soak it in salt and water, 
taking care to cleanse it thoroughly from blood; add two good cow- 
heels, well cleaned. Put all into a large stewpan, cover with cold 
water and boil till tender ; strain the liquor oif, and when cold cut 
the meat into very small pieces. Skim off all the fat from the water 
in which the head and heels were boiled, put the prepared meat with 
it, and boil the whole slowly till tender and thick—about five and 
a half hours. Then boil it up quickly, add pepper and salt to taste, 
and a little powdered mace, and put into pots as in Potted Meats. 

Scalloped Head. — After boiling till meat is tender, cut in small 
pieces and place in an earthen pudding dish alayer of bread-crumbs, 
season, then a layer of meat with bits of butter, then crumbs, and so 
on, with crumbs for last layer ; pour a cup of the broth over all and 
bake in oven till heated through and nicely browned. 

Stewed Head. — Cut the meat from a blanched calf's head into 
neat slices, and simmer gently in as little water as possible two 
hours; take out the pieces of meat, place on a hot dish, and cover 
them with tartare sauce,to which the juice left in pan has been added; 



MEATS. 545 

garnish with parsley. Or boil the head before boning, then bone 
and cut the meat in pieces two inches square. Make a sauce by 
stirring together in saucepan over the fire two tablespoons each but- 
ter and flour until smoothly blended and lightly browned ; then 
gradually add a pint of the hot liquor in which head was boiled, 
f>tirring until smooth ; season with quarter of a saltspoon grated 
nutmeg, a saltspoon salt, and pinch cayenne. When sauce begins 
to bubble, put in calf's head and heat it; then move to back of range, 
stir in yolks of three eggs, one at a time, and serve at once. Do not 
let tlie sauce boil after the yolks are added, or they may curdle, and 
spoil its appearance. Garnish with sprigs of par.sley, or a little 
cho])ped parsley may be sprinkled over ; or sliced lemon may be 
used. Or make a sauce by boiling together a cup broth or stock in 
which calf's head was boiled, tablespoonful butter, six of vinegar, 
and thicken with teaspoon corn-starch, adding salt and cayenne. 
Put in the pieces of calf's head and warm through without boiling. 
Add a chopped gherkin and garnish the dish with quarters of hard- 
boiled eggs, or a little chopped egg sprinkled over. Or boil a pint 
milk, thicken slightly with flour, add pepper, salt, butter and a little 
mace ; have both the meat from head and the tongue chopped in 
small pieces, put them in sauce and simmer ten minutes. Serve in 
hot deep dish garnished with chopped parsley and sliced hard-boiled 
eggs. An addition to any of the above is to reserve the lower jaw 
whole, bone it, single-bread as a chop, sprinkling over a little chopped 
parsley, brown in oven and serve on center of stew. Another excel- 
lent steAV is prepared by boiling the head in salted boiling water three 
hours, remove bones and cut the meat in about half dozen same- 
sized pieces. Boil the tongue half an hour and the liver and blanched 
brains fifteen minutes in quart water with teaspoon salt and table- 
spoon vinegar. Put a frying-pan over fire with butter enough to 
cover bottom, sprinkle tbickly with flour, and when it begins to 
brown put in the pieces of head with part of the liver, sliced, and 
brown them, keeping tongue and brains hot in broth in which they 
were boiled ; pour over head and liver enough broth to cover, adding 
four tablespoons flavored vinegar, level teaspoon finely powdered 
marjoram or any herb, level saltspoon each powdered mace, nutmeg 
and pepper, adust of cayenne and salt to taste ; stew gently ten 
minutes, meantime making some Egg Balls, which add to the stew 
and when clone serve in deep platter garnished with tongue and re- 
mainder of liver, sliced, and brains cut in two or three pieces, or 
made into Brain Fritters. When a beef's head is to be used it should 
be boned the day before it is wanted and laid overnight in salt and 
water. Boil gently in water to cover until tender, then slice and fry 
three onions in a little butter and flour and add to the meat with 
two whole onions, each stuck with three cloves, three turnips, quar- 
tered, two sliced carrots, a bay leaf, head of celery, bunch of herbs, 
and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black pepper and salt. Stew till 



546 MEATS. 

perfectly tender ; then take out the meat, cut in pieces ready to serve, 
skim and strain the ^ravy, and thicken one and a half pints with a 
tablespoon butter mixed with two dessert-spoons flour. Add two 
tablespoons each Chili vinegar and mushroom catsup, and same of 
any piquant sauce liked. Boil all up together, and serve hot. 

Calfs Read Cheese. — Boil the head till tender, and keep the 
broth boiling while removing the meat from bones ; cut tongue in 
larger bits, the rest quite small, skim the broth carefully and af- 
ter it has boiled down to a little over a pint put in some salt, a red 
pepper cut very small, and some chopped parsley : then add the 
meat. Put all in a deep dish with a plate over it, and a weight on 
that to keep it pressed down. Slice thin and serve for luncheon or 
tea. For Spiced Cheese cook as above, adding spices to taste while 
Ijoiling ; when partly cold add cup \dnegar. This will keep a lon^ 
time in cold weather. For Head Croquettes, boil pint milk, add 
the chopped boiled meat from the head and the parboiled brain, 
H.-^asoned with a little mace, salt or pepper, and parsley, simmer a 
few minutes ; then add three well-beaten eggs and a teaspoon corn- 
starch and stir quickly to mix thoroughly. Cook about five min- 
utes and cool on flat dish , form into balls or cones, single-bread 
and fry a delicate brown in a wire basket as illustrated, 
or for small croquettes one made of woven-wire is bet- 
ter. Or ior Spiced Croquettes cut ihe hlanched calf's 
head into pieces two inches wide ; lay for three hours 
in a pickle made of three tablespoons each lemon uiice 
and water, salt and pepper, and a pinch of mace. Take 
them out, drain, single-bread and fry in hot fat, and send to table 
with tartar sauce. Or for plain Breakfast Cakes chop the boiled 
meat fine ; add a small onion and some chopped parsley. Heat cup 
broth, put in chopped meat, let boil, and thicken with a little flour. 
Put on flat dish to cool ; form into flat cakes, single-bread and fry 
till brown in a frying-pan with a little butter or drippings. For 
Fritters, make batter of pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon baking-pow- 
der, small lump of ice to keep batter cool, flour enough till it will 
drop, not run from spoon, and two cups of chopped meat as above. 
Fry in hot fat. A nice cold dish is made from a boiled head in the shape 
of a Pie. Cut the meat into slices. At bottom of dish put a layer 
of cold boiled ham, then a layer of head, with a seasoning of pepper 
and salt, and a little brain sauce. Dot the layers over with force- 
meat balls, or veal stuffing, and slices of hard-boiled egg; add a 
gravy made of the trimmings of veal, and flavored with onion, herbs, 
mace and peppercorns. Put a good thick crust on the pie, and bake 
in a rather slow oven. When done, the pie may be filled up with 
gravy. Serve cold. 

Ragout of CalPs Head.— Fry neat slices of the meat from cold 
boiled calf's head five minutes in hot butter or dripping with the 




MEATS 547 

tongue cut in round slices. Put in custard kettle to keep warm, or 
in saucepan set in boiling water while lightly frying a can French 
mushrooms and a sliced onion in pan in which meat was fried ; 
drain them and lay on top of meat. Have ready a cup hot broth, 
seasoned with salt, pepper and sweet herbs, or spices if liked, pour 
this hot over the meat and mushrooms, cover closely and simmer 
fifteen minutes ; strain off gravy, thicken with browned flour, boil 
up once, add juice of a lemon and a little flavored vinegar, take up 
meat and mushrooms in deep dish and pour gravy over smoking 
hot. Strips of fried toast may be served on top of the dish, to which 
sliced hard-boiled eggs may be added if liked. 

Sweet-hreads. — These are the most delicate and expensive parts 
of meat, and the choicest are Veal Sweet-breads. See Marketing for 
suggestions for buying ; and Cutting and Curing Meats for directions 
about blanching and parboiling. It is more convenient to prepare 
them the day before wanted, as they must always be first thoroughly 
cooked and cooled, before making into any of the following recipes. 

Baked Sioeet-hreads. — Prepare as directed, then double-bread, 
put in baking-pan with lump of butter on each and bake in oven 
until brown, basting with veal gravy. Dish on toast or fried bread 
with the gravy, flavored with tablespoon mushroom catsup, poured 
over. Or simply spread with butter, dredge with salt, pepper and 
flour and bake. Or, after parboiling, lard with very narrow strips 
of fat salt pork not larger than a toothpick, taking deep, long stitches 
or they will break out, and roast brown in a moderate oven, basting 
often with butter and water. Serve with white sauce or tomato sauce 

Eoured over. For Sweet-breads ivith Green Pease, lard five sweet- 
reads as above, put on fire with half pint water, and let stew slowly 
for half an hour, take out and put in a small dripping-pan with a 
little butter and a sprinkle of flour ;. brown slightly, add half a gill 
milk and water, and season with pepper ; heat a half pint of cream, 
and stir it in the gravy in pan. Have pease ready boiled and sea- 
soned, place the sweet-breads in the center of the dish, pour the gravy 
over, and put pease around. Or serve the pease heaped in center 
with sweet-breads around, and gravy poured round edge of dish. 
Some parboil in quart water, teaspoon salt and tablespoon vinegar, 
then throw into cold water and when cold, lard as above, put in bak- 
ing pan on top of layer of trimmings of pork, and put over them a 
little onion, four or five slices carrot, half stalk celery and sprig of 
parsley, all chopped fine, and pepper and salt. Bake twenty minutes 
in hot oven. Cut a slice of bread into an oval or any fancy shape, 
and fry in a little hot butter, browning well ; put this in center of 
hot platter, on which place the sweetbreads and serve pease or toma- 
to sauce around. Baked Sioeet-hreads with Orange Juice form a 
very elegant dish. Parboil and blanch sweet-breads as directed, score 
them deeply on top, lay in a buttered baking pan, season with salt 



648 MEATS,, 

and pepper, and squeeze juioe of a sour orange over them, quickly 
brown in hot oven ; pour over the drippings from the pan and gar- 
nish with sliced sour oranges ; serve hot. 

Broiled Sioeet-hreads. — Prepare as directed ; cut into thin slices 
spread plenty of butter over them and broil over hot coals, turning 
often. Or split each in half lengthwise and broil, turning every min- 
ute as they begin to drip. Have ready on deep plate some melted 
butter well seasoned with salt and pepper and mixed with catsup or 
pungent sauce. When the sweet-breads are done a fine brown lay 
them in this, turn over several times and set closely covered in warm 
oven for a few minutes. Serve very hM on rounds of fried bread or 
toast, with the seasoned hot butter over them. Or after parboiling 
single-bread them and broil. Serve with a cream sauce poured round 
them, and garnish with water-cresses. 

Fricasseed Sweet -hreads. — For a white fricassee prepare as di- 
rected and cut in slices. To a pint of veal gravy add a thickening 
of flour and butter, tablespoon cream, half teaspoon mushroom 
powder, and grated lemon-peel, nutmeg and white pepper to taste ; 
stew ten minutes, add the sweet-breads and let them simmer twenty 
minutes. Dish, add salt, grated lemon-peel, stir, and serve. Or 
put the sweet-breads in the brcth without thickening, season with 
pepper and salt and a very little onion if liked j sprinkle with nut- 
meg, cover closely and stew steadily an hour, if of fair size and to be 
served w^hole. If they have been sliced, three-quarters of an hour 
will be sufficient. Heat four tablespoons vinegar in another sauce- 
pan, but do not boil, take from fire and stir in carefully three beaten 
eggs. Add this to sweet-breads just before dishing, leaving in just 
long enough to cook the eggs, but do not boil. Stir in teaspoon 
chopped parsley and serve in hot covered dish. Fo^ a Brown 
Fricassee slice an onion and pint mushrooms and fry quickly in 
quarter cup hot butter a fine brown. Strain butter from these and 
return to pan, adding another quarter cup butter and when very 
hot put in four sliced sweet-breads, and fry three minutes, turn- 
ing constantly. Meanwhile have the fried onions and mushiooms 
stewing in two cups brown gravy — veal is best. Pour this gravy, 
when sweet-breads are read_y, in jar or tin pail with closely-fitting top ; 
set in pot of boiling water, taking care there is not enough to bubble 
over the top ; put in the sliced sweet-breads, cover, and stew gently 
on back of range twenty minutes — half an hour should the sweet- 
breads be large. Thicken the gravy with browned flour, arrange the 
slice's symmetrically upon a hot platter, pour the gravy over and 
garnish with croutons of fried bread. Or cut into thin slices, let 
simmer slowly in the brown gravy three-quarters of an hour, and 
add a well-beaten egg, two tablespoons cream and one of chopped 
parsley ; stir all together for a few minutes, and serve im- 
mediately. Or cut up remainder of cooked sweet-bread in small 



MEATS. 549 

pieces ; prepare a gravy by melting two tablespoons butter, stirring 
in tablespoon browned flour, and adding cup soup stock or water ; 
lay pieces sweetbread in pan with gravy, season with pepper and 
salt, and boil up once. Garnish with sliced lemon or croutons. 

Fried Sweet-l)reads. — Prepare as directed and when perfectly 
cold cut lengthwise into slices quarter of an inch thick. Have 
tablespoon butter hot in frying-pan. put in sweet-breads and cook 
ten minutes, turning all the while ; then add cup brown veal or fowl 
gravy, tablespoon mushroom or tomato catsup, tablespoon chopped 
onion and parsley, mixed, with pepper and salt, all previously heated 
together. Stir at boiling heat five minutes and serve in hot dish. 
Or roll the sweet-breads in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, fry 
brown in hot butter and serve with mushroom sauce poured round 
them. Or for Larded Siveet-hreads, prepare as directed and lard 
with narrow strips of salt, fat pork, put a very little butter or lard in 
frying-pan,when hot, lay in sweet-breads and fry a crisp brown, turn- 
ing often. Garnish with crisped parsley. To serve with gravy, turn 
out all but teaspoon drippings, stir into this a cup cream or milk 
thickened with little flour, add pepper and salt, and when cooked 
through strain over the sweet-breads neatly arranged on plate alone 
or alternate with stuffed tomatoes. Or serve with green pease, boiled 
rice, or stewed mushrooms, cauliflowers or asparagus in center and 
sweet-breads around. The larding may be omitted, frying and serv- 
ing the same way. 

Skewered Sweet-hreads. — Prepare as directed and cut into slices 
about half an inch or more thick ; sprinkle them with pepper and salt, 
Oi-Qs^f}.^ single-bread them ; run a little skewer through two of these 
8Kew«. slices, alternating with two thin, square slices of bacon and 
fry in very hot lard ; serve a tomato or cream sauce in center, and 
garnish with parsley. Serve one skewer to each person at table. 

Stewed Sweet-hreads. — Prepare two sweet-breads, as directed 
place in stewpan, cover with stock, and simmer nearly an hour ; 
take out, place on hot dish, remove gravy from fire a minute, and 
add gradually yolk of an egg and four tablespoons cream ; stir over 
fire till the sauce thickens, but do not let boil. Before serving add 
juice of a lemon, pour the sauce around sweet-breads, and send to 
table with dish of green pease. Stewed either whole or cut in dice 
sweet-breads are nice served with Brown Mushroom Sauce. If served 
whole lay the sweet-breads on the sauce ; if diced mix them through 
it just before serving. Or stew sweet-breads in oyster liquor till ten- 
der, season with salt and pepper, add tablespoon butter and a few 
oysters and pour over moist buttered toast. Or after parboiling and 
blanching put four large sweet-breads on two cauliflowers in stewpan, 
season Avith a little cayenne and nutmeg, cover with water, put on 
lid and stew cue hour. Beat two tablespoons flour with half cup 



550 MEATS. 

butter and add to the stew with a cup milk, boil up once and serve 
immediately in hot dish. Or cook tomatoes in their own juice until 
tender, strain through a sieve, and put back in pan with four or five 
sweet-breads, previously blanched and parboiled ; add tablespoon 
flour mixed with two of butter, cayenne and salt, and stew until 
sweet-breads are done. Just before taking up stir in beaten yolks of 
two egga Serve in deep dish. Or for Larded Sweetbreads prepare 
two or threo sweet-breads as usual, when cool lard them and put in 
stewpan with half pint veal stock, white pepper and salt to taste, 
small bunch young onions, blade pounded mace, and thickening of 
butter and flour and stew gently twenty minutes. Beat two eggs ' 
with half pint cream and add with teaspoon minced parsley and lit- 
tle grated nutmeg ; heat through, but do not boil again or cream will 
curdle. Stir in some boiled asparagus tops and serve hot. Or 
omit the eggs, cream, onions and parsley, and flavor with mush- 
room catsup and juice of half a lemon. 

Sweet-hread Croquettes. — Single-bread three slices of prepared 
sweet-breads and fry as croquettes, either in butter or drippings in fry- 
ing-pan , or by dropping in kettle hot fat. Or, loith Mushrooms, cut two 
sweet-breads into dice ; cut a half box or four mush- 
rooms into dice also ; put tablespoon and a half but- 
ter in saucepan and when it browns stir in two table- _^ 

spoons flour and stir and cook until smooth ; then sweetbread croquettes. 
stir in a gill good stock or cream, add the diced mushrooms and 
sweet-breads, and when thoroughly heated take from fire and add 
beaten yolks of two eggs ; return to fire a moment to "set" the 
yolks, but do not boil. When cool form into rolls or any shape 
liked, (see Croquettes) double-bread them and fry by dropping in 
kettle of hot fat. They may be served alone or with pease, or tomato 
or bechamel sauce. For Sweet-hread Fritters slice sweet-breads thin 
sprinkle over grated nutmeg and chopped parsley, dip into a batter 
made of one cup each milk and flour, one egg, a pinch of salt, and a 
half teaspoon baking-powder, and fry in hot fat. For Siveet-hread 
ami Oyster Pie boil sweet-breads tender; season with pepper and 
salt ; make a gravy with the water in which they were boiled, adding 
half cup butter, yolks of two eggs, and tablespoon flour. Line bak- 
ing dish Avith puff"-paste ; have same quantity of oysters as sweet- 
breads, and fill the dish with gravy ; put on top crust with a hole in 
center and bake slowly until done. 

Sweet-hread Sandwiches. — Parboil and blanch two sweet-breads, 
wipe them dry, mince, season with pepper and salt, work in a table- 
spoon melted butter, and spread between buttered bread. The two 
sweet-breads will make six sandwiches, or mixed with an equal quan- 
tity of chopped ham, a dozen. 

Sweet-hread Vol-aii- Vents. — Prepare as directed, and when cool 
cut sweet-breads into dice, season with salt and pepper, and dredge 





MEATS. 551 

with flour. Have in a basin two or three dozen stewed, drained 
oysters, small teacup stewed button mushrooms, one dozen or more 
olives, pared in one piece close to the kernel. Put a quarter-pound 
butter in stewpan, melt and add two tablespoons flour, stirring well, 
and pouring in stock gradually until the sauce is of creamy consis- 
tency ; season with salt, pepper or cayenne, and a 
very little grated nutmeg ; put in the sweet-breads, 
stirring to prevent browning ; when thoroughly 
swoet-breadvoi-auvent8 hcatcd add ouc after the other, the oysters, mush- 
rooms, and olives, and a tablespoon tarragon vinegar ; stir and heat 
up again, but do not let boil. Serve in any of the shells, as given in 
pastry, or in little Bice Molds made by boiling rice until it can be 
worked into smooth paste with a spoon. Fill small buttered gem 
tins or patty-pans with this and when quite cold take out, briish 
over with little butter and brown in oven ; then scoop out inside 
leaving a rice crust quarter of an inch thick. These may also be 
filled with sweet-breads simply cut in small pieces and a spoonful 
cream dressing added to each shell, sifted over with bread-crumbs 
and set in oven to brown ; paper cases may also be used. 

Force-meats. — These are also known as "farces," "stuffings" and 
"dressings" and are most used for stuffing meats, game and poultry, 
but are also often cooked separately and served as a bed or border 
for entrees, or formed into square or oval piece for center of dish. 
For the latter, the mixture should be made into any shape fancied, 
about an inch and a half thick, and steamed in buttered paper or 
plate two hours. When done, slip on center of dish, arrange the 
entree on it and pour the sauce around the base. Delicate cutlets, 
sweet-breads, etc., are served thus. Veal or chicken force-meat is 
best for all light entrees. Force-meats ma}^ also be made into balls 
and poached or fried for soup or garnishes. In making force-meats 
be careful not to use so much of any one flavor as to overcome all 
others, and unless for very savory dishes, pepper should be sparingly 
used. The force-meat should be thick enough to cut with a knife, 
but not dry and heavy. Bacon or butter should always be substi- 
tuted for suet when the force-meat is to be eaten cold. Any left 
from stuffing fowls or meat may be made into balls, fried and used 
as a garnish. To make Quenelles of Force-meat^ have two table- 
spoons orteaspoons, accordingto size quenelles are wanted; fill one 
of them with force-meat, dip the other into boiling water, and with 
it remove the force-meat from the first spoon, and slip it from that 
into a buttered frying-pan, proceeding thus until all are done ; then 
cover them with stock, and boil about ten minutes, or until firm, 
and they are ready for use. 

Almond Force-meat. — Beat yolks of three eggs with quarter 
pint cream and flavor with little nutmeg. Blanch and pound in 
mortar three ounces sweet almonds, moistened with white of egg 



552 MEATS. 

and add to eggs and cream with three-fourths pint sifted bread- 
crumbs and three tablespoons butter in small bits ; stir in lastly 
frothed whites of three eggs, A nice stuffing for poultry. 

Chestnut Force-meat. — Shell and blanch a half pound chest- 
nuts and stew gently twenty minutes in veal gravy. When cold, 
pound in mortar till smooth with same quantity butter,add two cups 
sifted bread-crumbs, a little salt, grated lemon rind and nutmeg and 
bind together with unbeaten yolks of two eggs. A very excellent 
stuffing for turkey or goose. When made into balls, they must be 
rolled in flour before frying. 

French Force-meat. — Chop very fine a pound each uncooked 
veal and ham with a quarter pound pork and six mushrooms if- 
liked, and with a pestle, pound to powder. Cook a pint bread- 
crumbs and quart milk together, stirring often until bread is soft 
anil smooth. Set away to cool, first adding half cup butter, three 
tablespoons onion juice and salt and pepper. When cold, add to 
powdered meat, mix thoroughly, and rub through a sieve, then add 
yolks of four eggs. This is used for borders in which to serve hot 
entrees of game. It is also used in game pies, and sometimes for 
Quenelles. When to be used for border put in well-buttered mold 
and steam three hours. Then turn out on flat dish, and serve the 
meat in center. The French also add a calf's udder boiled, chopped 
fine and pounded. 

Game Force-m„eat. — Pound the livers of the game with half 
their weight of beef suet and good fat bacon, mixed together ; season 
with salt, pepper, and ground cloves. Use a little game meat if not 
enough liver; moisten with cream, and bind with yolks of two eggs. 
If the force-meat is wanted stifl", stew over a gentle fire, stirring con- 
stantly till of proper consistency. 

Ham Force-meat. — Two pounds cooked ham, chopped, and 
then pounded very fine ; one pound bread-crumbs, one pint milk, 
yolks of four eggs, tablespoon mixed mustard, teaspoon salt, a speck 
of cayenne, one cup brown sauce. Make as French Force-meat. 

Lobster Force-meat. — Pound the flesh of a medium-sized lobster 
with half an anchovy, a piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard- 
boiled egg, salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Mix with a table- 
spoon bread-crumbs, two of butter, and two raw eggs. Two or three 
oysters may be added if desired. Stuff boiled or baked fish with 
the force-meat, or make into balls, fry a pale brown in butter and 
serve as a garnish for fish ; or poach them for Fish Soup. 

Mushroom Force-meat. — Peel a quarter pound young fresh 
mushrooms and cut ofi" stems. Beat two tablespoons butter in stew- 
pan, put in mushrooms with a little mace and cayenne and simmer 
gently till tender, then drain on a sieve and when cold chop fine, 



MEATS. 553 

add a cup sifted bread-crumbs, slight seasoning cayenne, mace, nut- 
meg and salt, piece of butter and yolks of two eggs, with enough of 
the gravy from stewpan to make the whole of proper consistency. 
A dainty stuffing for fowls, and nice if made into balls, poached and 
served in soup. Or fry the balls and use as a garnish for roast fowl 
or minced veal. 

Oyster Force-ineat. — Sift a half pint bread-crumbs, and add 
tablespoon and a half finel}' minced suet, or butter cut in small bits, 
bunch of savory herbs, quarter salt-spoon nutmeg and pepper and 
salt ; mix well and add eighteen oysters, coarsely chopped, and two 
well-beaten eggs. Work all together with the hand until smoothly 
mixed. Especially nice for stuffing turkey. 

Sausage Force-meat. — Take a half pound each of lean and 
fat pork, both weighed after being chopped (beef suet may be sub- 
stituted for the latter), half pint bread-crumbs, small tablespoon 
minced sage, blade of mace, pounded, salt and pepper to taste, and 
one egg. Chop meat and fat very fine, mix with them the other in- 
gredients, taking care that the whole is thorouglily incorporated. 
Moisten with the egg, and stuff a turkey or any game or meat. 

Suet Force-meat. — Chop half pound beef suet very fine, add 
game quantity bread-crumbs, tablespoon chopped parsley, little 
powdered thyme, and majorara, grated rind and juice of halif a lem- 
on, salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste, and mix with three whole eggs. 
A good stuffing for veal, and nice also for turkey and baked fish, 
with more chopped parsley. 

Yeal Force-meat. — Chop a pound veal and half pound salt pork ; 
mix with one pound sifted bread-crumbs, a little cut parsley, sweet 
marjoram, three tablespoons of butter, two well-beaten eggs, and 
pepper. Or take three pounds of veal, cup butter, pint each bread- 
crumbs, milk and white sauce, two tablespoons salt, half teaspoon 
pepper, two tablespoons each bottled sauce, onion juice and chop- 
ped parsley, yolks of six eggs and half teaspoon grated nutmeg. 
Make and use same as French Force-meat. Nice for fish. Chiclien 
and Fish Force-meats made same as last recipe, using only the 
breast of chicken and cream instead of milk for the former. Salmon 
and halibut are best for the fish force-meat,which is used for entrees of 
fish only. For an excellent Sweet-hread Force-meat take equal parts 
lean veal and pork, and mince finely together ; cut into pieces a par- 
boiled veal sweet-bread, and mix with about three-quarters pound 
each of former meats. Add a half pound bread, soaked, and the 
same amount soft butter. Flavor with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper 
and half an ounce grated lemon rind. Bind with three beaten eggs, 
and use for turkey. 

Bread and Onion Force-meat. — Fry together two tablespoons 
sweet drippings or butter, one of chopped parsley, and about four oj 



554 MEATS. 

chopped onion ; season with one level tablespoon each powdered 
sage, thyme and salt, and a level teaspoon pepper. Soak half pound 
dry bread in tepid water five minutes, then wring it dry in a towel ; 
add to the onion and herbs and stir until scalding hot, add the par- 
boiled and chopped liver of a fowl, yolks of two eggs, half pint 
boiling milk or water, and use as stuffing for poultry or pork. When 
for the latter omit the liver or use about same quantity of pig's liver 
if obtainable. Or soak three ordinary-sized slices of bread in cold 
water, wring dry in a towel, and add to a tablespoon chopped onion 
fried brown in tablespoon butter, with a saltspoon salt, quarter salt- 
spoon each pepper and powdered thyme or mixed spices, and stir 
over fire until scalding hot ; take off and strain in yolk of one raw 
egg and use for stuffing breast of veal, lamb or poultry. 

Saqe and Onion Force-meat. — Pare four onions, and parboil in 
three different waters ; soak two or three times as much stale bread 
in tepid water, and wring dry in a towel : scald ten sage leaves ; 
when onions are tender, which will be in about half an hour, chop 
them with the sage leaves and add them to the bread, with table- 
spoon butter, yolks of two raw eggs, level teaspoon salt, and half 
saltspoon pepper ; mix thoroughly and stuff roast pork or poultry. 

Force-meat Balls. — Chop with a quarter pound beef suet little 
lemon peel and parsley and mix with a pint and a half sifted bread- 
crumbs ; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg and moisten with yolks 
of two eggs ; make into small balls and bake on buttered tin or fry 
in hot fat till crisp. Add a little finely chopped ham, if at hand. 

Frogs. — Only the hind legs of frogs are used and these are con- 
sidered a great delicacy. They must be skinned and blanched before 
cooking as follows : Drop them in salted boiling water, to which 
some add a little lemon juice, boil three or four minutes, put in cold 
water a few minutes, then take out and drain. They may be broiled 
or prepared after the recipes given. 

Fricasseed Frogs. — Put in stewpan two tablespoons butter, for 
two dozen frogs ; Avhen melted lay in two dozen blanched legs ; fry 
two minutes, stirring almost constantly ; then sprinkle teaspoon 
flour over and stir all with wooden spoon ; add two sprigs parsley, 
one of thyme, a bay leaf, two cloves, one of garlic, salt, white pep- 
per, and half pint stock or water and two tablespoons lemon juice; 
boil gently till done ; dish the legs, reduce the sauce by boiling, strain, 
mix in yolks of two eggs, pour over the legs and serve. Or fry a 
dozen pairs blanched legs with a little fresh butter and very little 
minced shallot or onion until the butter begins to brown, then add 
two tablespoons each cold water and flavored vinegar mixed, and 
cup hot water. Stew with cover on twenty minutes, then skim off 
most of butter and add seasoning of salt and cayenne. Thicken 
the liquor with four yolks of eggs beaten with two tablespoons cream. 



MEATS. 555 

Pour some of the hot liquor to the yolks before putting in saucepan, 
and take from the fire almost immediately, or as soon as it shows 
the first sign of boiling again. Place the frogs neatly in dish and 
strain the sauce over them. Frogs can also be plainly stewed like 
chickens, without the vinegar and thickening. 

Fried Frogs. — Fry the blanched legs in little butter in frying- 
pan and serve nicely arranged in dish of tomato sauce, garnished 
with croutons, or double-bread them, put in frying basket and im- 
merse in hot fat. Put a frill of paper around bone of each and serve 
very hot in a circle overlapping one another round a platter with 
pease in center. Or for Frog Salad soak two dozen legs in slightly 
salted water an hour and a half; drain, stew slowly in hot water 
until quite tender, drain off water and cover with milk. Let this 
come to a boil ; drain and cool ; remove bones, cut up meat and add 
an equal quantity of cut celery, place on platter, cover with mayon- 
naise dressing and garnish with little tufts of shrimps, and gVeen 
herbs, alternated with hard-boiled eggs quartered lengthwise. 

Frog Saddles. — Take the entire hind quarters of the frogs, cook 
in water a few minutes, or Au Court BouilUon like fish, page 253 ; 
then roll in flour, then in beaten egg with a spoonful water, then coat 
well in cracker dust. Fry like fritters. Cut square slices of buttered 
toast across diagonally, making triangular pieces; place two on a 
dish, the broad bases together in the middle and points at the ends 
and frogs on the toast in corresponding manner. Ornament with 
sliced lemon and parsley. 



Grravles. 



Gravies are considered an indispensable accompaniment to all 
meats and " made dishes " from meat by professional cooks, but few 
housekeepers give their preparation the thought and attention neces- 
sary to make them in the perfection so easily attained with very little 
expenditure of time or means. The making of gravy to serve with 
a roast or other freshly cooked meat is a very simple matter indeed, 
as will be seen from the recipes given. But for every-day conveni- 
ence, and in order to be able to get up appetizing little dishes at a 
moment's notice when an unexpected guest arrives, every house- 
keeper should keep on hand a supply of stock, or glaze, which is 
''condensed gravy," and for which a recipe is given later. But in- 
stead of buying meat for gravy stock the economical housewife will 
save for the purpose all bones and trimmings from meat, even bits 



556 (JRAVIES. 

of gristle and skin, and with the stock-pot in her mind's eye will 
carefully trim off from all roasts before putting in the oven many 
bits that will add richness to gravy, which would otherwise crisp 
and go to waste in the baking pan. All bones and trimmings from 
cold meat should be saved for this purpose also. Thus a roast 
served hot one day is sliced cold the next, and perhaps also a part 
is made into some one of the dainty dishes given in Cold Meats, 
while the bones are carefully broken or chopped and with the trim- 
mings and other bits of meat at hand are put over the fire with 
sufficient cold water and simmered slowly until all juices and gela- 
tinous parts are extracted. If cut into small bits this is effected 
much more quickh/. Any vegetables, herbs or spices of which the 
flavor is liked maybe boiled with the meat, which should cook until 
the liquor is reduced one half, or is a tolerably rich gravy. Then 
strain, set away to become cold, and before reheating for use remove 
all fat that rises to the top, for grease is not grav}'', and an otherwise 

excellent dish is often spoiled by an oily 
coating or swimming globules of grease. 
The stock will keep better, however, if the 
fat is left on top until wanted for use. To 
^^ Saucepan. mako tho gravy heat the stock to boil- 

ing in a lipped saucepan as it is so much easier from which to pour ; 
season with pepper and salt and flavor with any spices, catsups or 
sauces liked, being careful not to overpower the flavor of the gravy 
itself, add thickening of Roux, or Browned Flour, or if neither is 
at hand a little flour, corn-starch or arrowroot mixed smooth with a 
little cold water and pinch sugar, let boil well and serve, either poured 
over or around a dish of meat or vegetables or sent on with it in 
gravy-boat ; or serve as directed in recipes for Meats and Cold Meats. 
This prepared stock may be used for the foundation in any of 
the gravy recipes that follow, saving the time required for cooking 
the ingredients as given above. Stock will keep several days in 
cold weather, or if set in ice-box in 
summer. Or gravy may be prepared 
in small quantities each day as needed 
with a little forethought when clearing 
away the breakfast. Save all liquor , oravy stratoer. 

from boiled meat for stock, and keep any gravy left over to serve 
again with the addition of stock and more flavoring and thickening 





GRAVIES. 557 



if necessary. If any gravy should be lumpy put through a gravy 
strainer before serving. By putting into practice a good old adage 
the wise housekeeper "who wastes not will want not" — gravies. 



Browned Flour. — Sift and spread the flour thinly and evenly 
over bottom of dripping-pan and brown on top of stove or in oven, 
stirring constantly to prevent scorching, until either a light or deep 
brown as desired. It is well to prepare a quantity at a time and 
put away in closely corked bottles or self-sealing glass jars to be 
used as needed for thickening gravies, soups and sauces wanted 
brown. A good proportion is a level tablespoon for each cup liquid. 
Use same as any flour by mixing smooth with water or butter, then 
adding to liquid. Butter and flour, mixed in equal parts and baked 
brown, is preferred l)y some for thickening brown gravies, but plain 
])rowned iiour is doubtless better to use. A slice of toasted bread 
added to gravy answers for both browning and thickening, but is 
not so nice as the browned flour. Broumed Onions are also used 
for coloring gravies. To prepare, peel and chop fine three medium- 
sized onions, put in stew-pan with half pint water, boil five minutes 
add half pound moist sugar and simmer gently till mixture is a 
dark brown. Then strain it into three-fourths pint boiling vinegar, 
stir until thoroughly mixed, and bottle. Use for flavoring and col- 
oring gravies, soups, etc. Another article used in gravies, sauces, 
etc., is the Parsley Butter on page 179, making two or three times 
the recipe, packing in a jar and keeping in a cool place ; half as 
much parsley may be used, giving a more delicate flavor, and some 
add only two tablespoons lemon juice. This is also known as 
Maitre d^ hotel Butter and is a delicious dressing for steak, chops, 
etc., placed on the hot platter on which they are to be served, turn- 
ing them over in it, thus seasoning each side. 

Glaze. — Any strong meat soup or stock may be boiled down to 
jelly-like consistency and makes excellent glaze. Four quarts should 
be reduced to one quart. It may not be so fine in flavor as that 
especially prepared, but answers very well. Pig's feet, when obtain- 
able, will make nice glaze cooked with vegetables, but for a more 
delicate preparation take six pounds knuckle of veal or leg of beef, 
and half pound lean ham, cut in pieces size of an egg, rub a quarter 
pound butter on bottom of pot, which should hold two gallons ; put 
in meat with half pint water, three medium-sized onions, with two 
cloves in each, a turnip, carrot, and three or four stalks celery ; place 
over quick fire, occasionally stirring it until bottom of pot is covered 
with a thick glaze, which will adhere lightly to spoon ; then fill up 
pot with cold water, and when on boiling point, draw to back of 
stove and simmer gently three hours if veal, six if beef, carefully re- 
moving all scum as it rises. The stock thus made, adding salt, will 



558 GRAVIES. 



make a delicious foundation for all kinds of clear soup or gravies. 
To reduce to glaze pass the stock through fine hair sieve or cloth in- 
to pan ; then fill up the pot containing meat, etc., with hot water 
and boil again four hours to obtain all the glutinous part, strain off 
stock and put with that first obtained in large stewpan, set over fire 
and boil as fast as possible with lid off", stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent boiling over. When reduced to about three pints, pour into 
small stewpan and boil more slowly until reduced to a quart, skim- 
ming if necessary, then put where it will again boil quickly and stir 
well with wooden spoon until it begins to get thick and is of a fine 
yellow-brown color, taking care not to burn. Pack in pot for use, 
or in sausage skins, which may be obtained from butcher ; cut off'ayard 
of the skin, tie one end very tightly and pour in the glaze through a 
large funnel. It will be hard like jelly when cold and when wanted for 
use is cut off" in slices. A thick slice dissolved in hot water makes 
a cup of nutritious soup, to whi>'h may be added any cooked vege- 
tables, rice or other ingredients liked. A piece is very nice to take 
on a journey, especially for an invalid who does not want to depend 
on way-side hotel food, or is tired of beef-tea. Another way of 
keeping glaze is to put away in a Glaze- Kettle made for the pur- 
pose, and much like a custard-kettle. It is a tin vessel in which the 
glaze is kept, fitting into a larger one, which is filled with boiling 
water to melt glaze when wanted for use. The smaller vessel has a 
lid with a small hole in it for a brush, which is used for putting the 
glaze on meats, etc., as required. When packing in skins it is well 
to put a part of the glaze in ajar for this purpose, which may be set 
in kettle or pan of hot water to melt, and provide also a small stiff 
brush, or a stiff feather will do. Glaze adds greatly to the fine ap- 
pearance of many dishes. It is much used in decorating cold joints, 
nams and tongues and its use is recommended in various recipes. 

^ . ^. — Fj^H To use thus, melt the glaze and with the brush 

■" ^;,, ,,-^B cover the meat with it, going over it a second 

GiazingBrnBh. tlmc if neccssary after first coat has become 

cold. In roasting meat if it is not evenly and nicely broAvned, brush 
over with glaze just before serving and it will give required finish. 

Roxhx. — This may be made as wanted for use, but is convenient 
to have at hand. For making White Roux melt a half pound but- 
ter slowly, skim, let settle, then pour in clean saucepan over fire and 
when hot dredge in slowly two cups sifted flour. Stir rapidly until 
perfectly smooth and thoroughly cooked, but do not let brown ; some 
use an egg whisk for stirring, Put away in ajar. Bromn Roux is 
made same, stirring over fire until a bright brown, but not scorch- 
ed. Use for thickening gravies, sauces, soups, stews, etc., by moist- 
ening with a little of the warm liquid then stirring into the whole, 
or put it into the cold liquid and it will dissolve as it heats ; do not 
put into hot liquid without first moistening or it will harden into 
lumps instead of dissolving. 



GRAVIES. 659 

Beef Gravy. — Cut a half pound lean beef in small pieces and 
put in stewpan with half pint cold water, a shallot or small onion, 
half teaspoon salt and a little pepper and simmer gently three hours. 
A short time before done stir in half teaspoon arrowroot mixed with 
a little cold water, add tablespoon any sauce liked, boil up once, 
strain and serve. Nice for poultry, game, etc. Or cut a half pound 
shin of beef in very small pieces, slice half an onion and quarter of 
a carrot and stir in saucepan over fire with piece of butter size of 
Avalnut until slightly colored, add three-fourths pint water, two or 
three sprigs parsley and savory herbs, cayenne, mace and salt to 
taste and simmer half an hour ; skim well, strain and it is ready for 
use. For a Rich Beef Gravy., cut two pounds shin of beef and a 
large onion or a few shallots in thin slices, dredge with flour and 
fry a pale brown, but do not scorch ; add two pints boiling water, 
let boil and skim. Then add slice lean ham or bacon, bunch savory 
herbs, two blades mace, half head celery, two or three cloves, four 
allspice, quarter teaspoon whole pepper, cayenne and salt to taste 
and simmer very gently two hours, or until all juices are extracted 
from meat. Set away to cool, then skim off all fat. May be flavored 
with catsup, bottled sauce, or anything thai will give additional 
relish to the dish with which it is to be served. This gravy is ex- 
cellent with ragouts, hashes, or any dish from cold meats. 

Broion Gravy. — Before serving any roast meat, let the gravy in 
pan dry down until grease can be poured ofif clear, while the glaze 
remains adheringto pan ; pour in water to dissolve it, and when it has 
boiled add a trifle of Browned Flour, to thicken if necessary though 
when a roast has been well dredged with flour a thickening Avill not 
be needed. Strain through a fine strainer ; serve some in dish with 
the roast, the rest in sauce-boat. A Cheap Brown Gravy which will 
be found nice for warming up any kind of cold meat is made as 
follows : Slice three onions and fry in butter a nice brown ; toast a 
large, thin slice of bread slowly until quite hard and a deep brown ; 
put these, with any pieces of meat, bone, etc., and some herbs, on 
the fire with a pint and a half water, and stew down until it is as 
thick as liked. Season to taste, strain, and set in a cool place until 
w^anted for use. For a Rich Brown Gravy, fry two large onions 
cut in rings in two tablespoons butter until a light brown ; then add 
two pounds shin of beef and two small slices bacon, both cut in 
small square pieces, and pour in cup water; boil ten minutes, orun- 
til a nice brown color, stirring occasionally ; add three and a half 
pints water, let boil up, then draw to back of range and simmer very 
gently an hour and a half; strain and when cold take otf the fat. 
Thicken with four tablespoons flour first made smooth and lightly 
browned with three tablespoons butter in another pan, and cooled"; 
boil the gravy up quickly, season to taste and it is ready to serve. 
This thickening may be made in larger quantities and kept in stone 



o60 GBAVIES. 

jar until wanted. A Brown Gravy witJwut Meat is made as fol- 
lows . Slice, flour and fry two onions and one large carrot in two 
tablespoons butter till a nice light brown, add three pints boiling 
water, bunch savory herbs and pepper and salt. Stew gently about 
an hour, strain, when cold skira off all fat and> stir in a thickening 
made as in proceeding recipe and a few drops Caramel Coloring. 

Carrot Gravy. — Grate a good large carrot, first washing and 
scraping thoroughly. Put butter size of walnut in stewpan and 
when just melted put in the carrot with enough stock to make of 
the usual consistence, adding salt, pepper, finely chopped parsley 
and a little lemon juice. Stew till smooth and thoroughly cooked. 

Economical Gravy. — Put in stewpan the chopped bones and 
trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal or beef, one and one-half 
pints water, an onion, quarter teaspoon each chopped lemon peel, 
and salt and blade mace, pounded ; simmer gently an hour or more, 
or until liquor is reduced to a pint, then strain through hair sieve. 
Add thickening of butter and flour, let it just boil up, squeeze in 
about teaspoon lemon juice, and it is ready to serve. It may be fla- 
vored with a little tomato sauce if at hand, or if a dark colored gravy 
is wanted, catsup or any bottled sauce. Or put chopped bone and 
trimmings from any cold joint in stewpan with quarter teaspoon 
each salt, whole pepper and whole allspice, small bunch savory herbs 
and half head celery, cover with boiling water and simmer gently 
about two hours. Slice and fry an onion in tablespoon butter till a 
pale brown, and mix gradually with the gravy ; boil fifteen minutes 
and strain, put back in stewpan, flavor with walnut vinegar, catsup, 
pickled onion liquor, or any bottled sauce preferred. Thicken with a 
little butter and flour mixed smooth on a plate, boil up once, and 
the gravy will be ready for use. 

Gihlet Gravy. — Boil the giblets — gizzard, heart and liver — with 
the neck in two quarts water an hour and a half, skimming if neces- 
sary and adding more water if it cooks aAvay too much. Take out 
giblets, chop fine, return to Avater in saucepan, first skimming out 
neck, and add tablespoon flour mixed smooth with a little cold 
water ; season and after the fowl has been taken up, add to dripping- 
pan placed on top of stove, adding more water if necessary, and 
noil five minutes, stirring constantly, scraping the sides of pan to 
free the rich, savory particles that adhere. More thickening or 
seasoning may be needed and some add a little sweet marjoraili. If 
too much fat in dripping-pan, skim off before adding the giblet sauce. 
If the giblets are not liked, or are preferred served whole, the gravy 
is made same, simply omitting giblets and serving them on platter 
with the fowl. For a nice Liver Gravy., wash the feet and neck of 
fowls perfectly clean, cut in small pieces and put in stewpan with a 
slice toasted bread, half an onion, bunch savory herbs, salt and pep- 



GRAVIES. 561 

per to taste and the giblets ; pour one pint water over, and simmer 
gently one hour. Take out the liver, pound it, and put in roasting 
pan with the strained liquor in Avhich it was boiled. Add thick- 
ening of butter and flour, and flavoring of mushroom catsup, boil up 
and serve. The gizzard can be served whole with the fowl. 

Herb Gravy. — Take a stick of horse-radish and the leaves of a 
sprig each winter savory, thyme, marjoram and a little tarragon ; 
put in stewpan with pint water, four tablespoons vinegar, juice of 
a lemon, two thinly-sliced shallots and a clove or two. Add enough 
Browned Onion or Caramel Coloring to color well and simmer gently 
fifteen minutes after bringing to a boil. Strain, add thickening and 
serve hot. Or omit thickening and when quite cold pour in bottles 
to be served in small quantities wdth meats as Herlj t:iauce. 

Heidelherc/ Gravy. — Line a stewpan slightly with butter, put in 
three sliced onions, six pounds boned fillet of veal and two pounds 
of boiling piece of beef and pint stock. Let all boil on brisk fire 
till reduced one-half, turn the meat frequently, and simmer gently. 
The glaze must not he overcooked', if so the sauce will taste disa- 
greeably sharp. Take stewpan off fire when meat is well glazed, 
cover it, and do not touch for five or six minutes in order that the 
glaze may dissolve quickly. Pour in six quarts more stock, boil 
well, skim and add tAvo carrots, level tablespoon salt and saltspoon 
white pepper. Boil and skim, and when meat is quite done remove 
it, and strain the stock through a cloth. Now put into a saucepan 
three-fourths pound each clarified butter and flour; mix well, put in 
the stock and stir with a wooden spoon till it boils. Simmer two 
hours with the cover lifted off a little. Skim twice during the sim- 
mering, and once more when done. Strain through a cloth and keep 
for use. This makes four quarts and will keep good a week or more. 
Instead of the meat given above a few slices lean ham, the lower 
part of a calf's leg and a kidney, cut in pieces, and a chicken, cut in 
joints, may be used, adding the carrot and parsnips also, if liked, 
with onion. To make Brown Heidelberg Gravy, use Browned Floar. 

Horse-radish Gravy. — Mix well one tablespoon each butter and 
flour in saucepan, add pint soup or gravy stock • let boil till flour is 
well cooked ; add three or four tablespoons prepared horse-radish, 
pinch of sugar, a little salt and v/hite pepper if liked. Serve at 
once. If grated fresh horse-radish is used add a little vinegar to 
gravy just before serving. Milk, broth from boiled corned beef or 
water may be used instead of stock. This is one of the best of gravies. 

Jugged Gravy. — Cut two pounds skin of beef and quarter pound 
lean ham in small pieces, slice an onion, or a few shallots and half 
a large carrot ; put meat, ham and vegetables, with seasoning of 
pepper and salt, in alternate layers in jar holding three pints, and 



562 GRA^^ES. 

add two pints water; cover closely so that steam will not escape and 
bake in oven for from six to eight hours. If oven is very hot less time 
will be required. A good way is to put jar in oven overnight, leaving 
small fire, to draw out the gravy, and it will then bake in a much 
less time. When sufficiently cooked, strain, cool, remove fat and 
flavor with catsup or any bottled sauce liked. An excellent gravy. 

Maitre (T hotel Gravy. — Mix in saucepan two tablespoons Ma- 
trie d' hotel Butter and one of flour ; add pint milk or water, let 
boil and serve with boiled beef, mutton or fish. Or add only half 
pint milk and make a thick sauce known as Maitre d^ hotel Sauce. 

Milk Oravy. — After frying any kind of meat, add a tablespoon 
flour to the fat stir well together, add pint of milk, let boil till flour 
is thoroughly cooked. Water may be used in place of milk, or half 
and half, and butter instead of the fat. Or have a pint milk at boil- 
ing point and stir in a thickening of a rounded tablespoon flour, 
mixed smooth with cream or milk, and a beaten egg. Serve soon as 
it boils, as if allowed to boil a half minute, the creaminess is lost. 

Onion Gravy. — Put two tablespoons butter in saucepan and 
when slightly browned stir in three sliced oniony and fry brown. Stir 
in heaping teaspoon flour and fry all together a moment, then add 
half pint stock, seasoning of pepper and salt, and boil gently ten 
minutes. Skim off" all fat, add teaspoon each made mustard and 
vinegar and juice of half a lemon, give one boil and serve hot. Es- 
pecially nice with steaks. If to be poured over the steak or served 
as Bohert Sauce, use only half as much stock and less thickening. 

Orange Gravy. — Put a sliced onion in stewpan with half pint 
stock, a few basil or bay leaves, three or four strips orange or lemon 
peel and simmer very gently fifteen minutes. Strain, and if not suf- 
ficiently flavored add juice of a Seville orange or a lemon ; season, 
add thickening of arrowroot or corn starch, boil up once and serve. 
Nice for all game. 

Piquant Gravy. — Put two tablespoons each chopped cucumber 
pickles, capers and onions in saucepan with half pint vinegar and 
stir over fire until vinegar has nearly all evaporated ; add two table- 
spoons each butter and flour rubbed smooth, two teaspoons salt, 
two saltspoons pepper and half as- much cayenne, with pint boiling 
water or stock. Boil up once and serve. This is also known as 
Piquant Sauce, and a more elaborate recipe is the following : Put 
two tablespoons butter in stewpan with a small carrot and six shal- 
lots, sliced, bunch savory herbs, half bay leaf, two small slices lean 
ham, chopped fine, two cloves, six pepper-corns, blade of mace, and 
three whole allspice. Simmer all over slow fire until bottom of pan 
is covered with a brown glaze, stirring to prevent burning, and add 
four tablespoons vinegar, half pint stock, teaspoon sugar, pinch of 



COLD MEATS. 563 



cayenne and salt to taste. Simmer gently fifteen minutes, skim off 
all fat, strain and serve hot with roast meats. If not liked so acid 
use less vinegar. 

Sage Gravy. — Chop fine a half dozen large green sage leaves, 
or more if the leaves are small, with two medium-sized onions. Put 
in stewpan with butter size of Avalnnt, sprinkle with flour, cover 
closely and let steam a few minutes. Then add teaspoon vinegar, 
some broth or gravy, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer 
till the onion is tender. Capital with roast pork. 

Veal Gravy. — Cut three pounds veal and two slices lean ham 
in small pieces, put in stewpan, moisten with little water and set 
over fire to extract juices ; when bottom of pan is covered -with a 
white glaze add three pints water, bunch savory herbs, a few green 
onions or one large onion, blade of mace, salt to taste and a few 
mushrooms when obtainable. Stew very slowly three or four hours 
and skim well the moment it boils. Let cool, take off fat and re- 
heat when wanted for use. May be used as a foundation for white 
sauces, for fricassees, or wherever nice veal gravy or stock is wished. 

Venison Gravy. — Brown trimmings of venison in a little butter 
or ffit over brisk fire and put with them three or four mutton shank 
bones and pint water ; simmer gently two hours, skim, strain, add 
two teaspoons walnut or any catsup, salt to taste, boil up and serve. 



Cold Meats. 



In America and England there is great prejudice against warmed- 
over food, but in France one eats it half the time in some of the 
most delicious "made dishes" without suspecting it. Herein lies the 
secret. With us the warming Over is so artlessly done, that the hard 
fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it 
reposes. One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat 
satisfactory is the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this, as well 
as its presence, depends the success of the dish. The glaze, for which 
the recipe is given under Gravies, renders one at all times independ- 
ent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be de- 
pended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast 
should be saved, and great care be taken of ali scraps, bones and 
gristle, which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity 
of using glaze for every purpose. Do not make into "hash" all cold 



564 COLD MEATS. 



meat, as is the too common practice of so many American house- 
keepers. Hash appears to be a peculiarly American institution. In 
no other country is every remnant of cold meat turned into this one 
unvarying dish. Not only remnants but whole joints of cold meat, 
a roast of be.ef of which the tenderloin had sufficed for the first day's 
dinner, the leg of mutton from which a few slices only have been 
taken, the fillet of veal, available for so many delicate dishes, are 
ruthlessly turned into the all-prevading hash. The curious thing is 
that people are even fond of it. Yet hash in itself is not a bad dish ; 
it is called a ^eculiavly A?7ierican institution, because when English 
people speak of hash, they mean something quite different — meat 
warmed in slices. Our hash, in its best form — that is, made with 
nice gravy, garnished with sippets of toast and pickles, surrounded 
with m.ashed potatoes or rice — is dignified abroad by the name of 
"mince,-" and makes its appearance as an elegant little entree. Nor 
v/ould it be anathematized in the way it is with us, if it were only 
occasionally introduced. It is the familiarity tliat has led to con- 
tempt. But though recipes are hereafter given for most excellent 
dishes of hash, it is better to introduce a little variety in warmed- 
over meats. Variety is as easy to produce as it is rare to meet with 
in average cooking, and depends more upon intelligence and 
thoughtfulness than upon anything else. Plenty of good well fla- 
vored gravy is an absolute necessity for the success of warmed-over 
dishes, also a variety of seasoning, herbs, etc., though in using the 
recipes that follow, if all the seasonings mentioned are not at hand 
others may be substituted or they may be omited entirely. No good 
cook, however, will allow her stock of spices, herbs and other con- 
diments to run low, for upon these and their appopriate use de- 
pends the success of all cookery, giving that peculiar flavor charac- 
teristic of French cooking ; and another secret we may learn from them 
is the use of a Pinch of Sugar in soups, meat and vegetable dishes, 
etc. It is not added to sweeten, or even be perceptible, but it en- 
riches, softens, tones, as it were, the other ingredients as salt does. 
It is a mistaken idea to think that fat and butter in large quantities 
are necessary to good cooking. Butter and oils may be melted with- 
out changing their nature, but when cooked they become much more 
indigestible and ijijurious to weak stomachs. Gravy is equally if 
not more palatable and much more wholesome, though a limited 
quantity of butter, drippings or oil is almost indispensable to a well 



COLD MEATS. 565 



flavored gravy, unless it be made from good stock from boiled meat 
and vegetables, which is much better. In making warmed-over 
dishes of meat do not let the t) reparation boil or cook long ; simply 
become thoroughly heated, as boiling toughens re-cooked meat, and 
it is also necessary to always place in a hot frying-pan, so the heat- 
ing can be more quickly accomplished. We give below a few recipes 
which make appetizing dishes from cold meat but the ways of pre- 
paring the latter are legion, and the successful housekeeper can 
• form innumerable dishes, as each recipe will suggest another even 
more edible than the first. 



Meat Baiter. — Dipping slices of cold meat in the following 
batter is a much nicer way of encasing them, than to single-bread : 
Mix one and a half pints sifted flour with two tablespoons melted 
butter, and enough warm water to make a soft paste, which beat 
till smooth ; then add more warm water till consistency ot fritter 
batter, salt to taste, and add, just before dipping in the pieces of 
cold meat, the well-frothed whites of two. eggs. Another batter nice 
for meats, dry in themselves, such as chickens, veal, etc., is to add 
to above quantity flour, yolks ot two eggs, four tablespoons oil, 
mixing with cold water and adding salt and beaten whites as above. 
When meat is prepared, fry as fritters or in frying-pan. 

Sweet Ilerhs. — To make the bunch of herbs called for in many 
recipes put together in palm of left hand three long sprigs parsley 
with stems crossing in fan shape, and on these lay two sprigs each 
thyme and summer savory and two bay leaves ; twist root ends of 
parsley up over other herbs and bring leaf ends down, making a 
kind of roll, which must be wound about and tied with clean twine. 
Some always add a few pepper-corns and blade of mace ; sweet mar- 
joram is also used, and sage leaves should be added for flavoring 
pork. The above is given simply as a general rule, and any com- 
bination preferred or convenient may be used. The herbs are always 
removed before serving the dish. 

Warned- Over Roasts. — The simplest of all ways of warming a 
roast that has not been too much cut is to wrap it in thickly buttered 
paper and put in the oven again, covering closely as possible and 
leave only long enough to become thoroughly heated through. By 
keeping closely covered it will get hot in less time and the steam 
will prevent it from becoming hard and dry ; make some gravy and 
serve hot with the meat. If the gravy is good and plentiful the meat 
will be as nice as the first day, but without gravy will be an unsatis- 
factory dish. If it is not possible to cover the joint closely in the 
oven, put it in steamer over hot water; let it get hot through and 



56G COLD MEATS. 



serve as before. Or it may then be placed in oven a few moments 
to brown. Cooking as a Pot-Roast is also a nice way to warm it 
over. For the third day the meat may be warmed up in any of the 
ways hereafter given. 

Fried Meat. — Any kind of cold meat or chicken that can be 
cut into neat slices may be very nicely warmed over by first dipping 
in Meat Batter as above, or single-breading, and dropping into a 
kettle of hot fat, turning to brown both sides, or in butter or drip- 
pings in frying-pan. The batter, or egg and bread-crumbs forms a 
sort of crust which keeps the meat tender and juicy while it is being 
heated through. Frying (without batter or crumbs) in a pan with a 
little butter renders the meat hard and almost uneatable unless the 
pan is very hot, the meat turned almost constantly^ and soon taken 
out on a hot platter and served at once. Some prefer to sprinkle 
the meat with ground spices or chopped herbs or onions before 
breading them. A tureen of good gravy should accompany meat 
prepared thus, which may be served in a circle round mashed po- 
tato, or in center of platter with gravy poured round, or in any way 
preferred. For Fried Mutton Outlets., trim thick cutlets from cold 
leg of mutton, or chops from the loin, dip them in the Meat Batter, 
fry as above and serve in a circle round a Vegetable Ragout made 
as follows : Stew young carrots, turnips, green pease and white 
beans gently in a little water in which the bones and trimmings of 
the meat have been cooked. Season and dish in center of platter. 
For Fried Corned Beef, cut any part of cold corned beef into thin 
slices, fry slightly in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have 
ready some very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them 
and garnish with three or four pickled gherkins ; or heat slices in a 
little liquor from mixed pickle, drain, and serve as above. Or cut 
nice, cold roast or lean corned beef in thin slices, and lay them in 
mustard and vinegar a few hours ; double-bread and fry in hot lard. 
For breading meats see Croquettes, page 299. 

Molded Meat. — Chop a pound any cold meat, except pork, very 
fine, and season with half saltspoon pepper and one of salt. Wash 
two ounces maccaroni well in cold water and boil half an hour. 
Drain and cut into inch lengths and mix with the chopped meat, and 
a cup bread crumbs, adding tablespoon butter cut into small pieces. 
Bind all together with a beaten egg and tablespoon stock, ancl when 
thoroughly mixed pack into a well-greased dish or bowl and steam 
one hour. Or for Meat Pudding, i2i\e any cold meat and suet, chop 
very fine ; add salt, onions, minced ham or tongue, a slice of bread 
soaked in milk, two well-beaten eggs, tablespoon butter ; stew all 
together gently for fifteen minutes, place in mold and bake till 
brown. Serve on a hot dish, and cover with gravy ; or soak the 
bread in water, omit the suet, season with salt, pepper and celery- 
seed ; add the meat and egg, and pour the mixture without cooking 



COLD MEATS. 567 



into a buttered pudding dish, placing a tablespoon butter on top ; 
bake slowly and turn out in solid form as above. Turkey, chicken, 
etc., are very nice prepared in this way. 

Meat Omelet. — Mince any cold pieces of meat, add a few crumbs 
of bread or crackers, and enough beaten egg to bind them together. 
Season well and pour into a well-buttered, hot frying-pan. If it is diffi- 
cult to turn whole, a hot shovel may be held over top till browned. 

Meat Ovals. — Put a half pound stale bread or crumbs to soak 
•in pint cold water ; chop fine same quantity of any cold roast or 
boiled meat, with a little fat ; press the bread, in a clean cloth to ex- 
tract the water; put two tablespoons butter in stewpan with table- 
spoon chopped onions . fry two minutes and stir, then add tho bread ; 
stir and fry till rather dry, and put in the meat ; season with teaspoon 
salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel and stir 
constantly till hot, then add two eggs, one at a time, mix well and 
pour into dish to get cold. Make into small egg-shapes, slightly 
flattened, single-bread, taking care to keep in shape, and when all 
are done fry in frying-pan in a little very hot butter, lard or drip- 
pings until a fine yellow brown, turning to brown both sides. Serve 
very hot with a border of mashed potatoes or any garnish fancied. 
A piquant sauce may be served with them. Any kind of meat, 
poultry game or fish, or even vegetables may be served thus. Hard- 
boiled eggs or potatoes may be introduced "in small quantities, and 
the ovals may beimmersed'in hot fat if preferred, as Fritters. Oyster 
Ovals are also nice cooked in same way. 

Meat Pie. — Put a layer of cold roast beef or other bits of meat, 
chopped very fine, in bottom of dish, and season with pepper and 
salt, then a la,yer of powdered crackers, with bits of butter and a lit- 
tle milk, and thus place alternate layers until the dish is full ; wet 
well with gravy or broth, or a little warm water ; spread over all a 
thick layer of crackers which have been seasoned with salt and mix- 
ed with milk and a beaten egg or two ; stick bits of butter thickly 
over it, cover with a tin pan, and bake half to three-quarters of 
an hour; remove cover ten minutes before serving, and brown. 
Make moister if of veal. Or for Hampton Pie, cover any bits or 
bones, rejected in chopping, with nearly a pint of cold water, and let 
them simmer for an hour or more ; strain, add a chopped onion, 
three tablespoons Chili sauce, a level tablespoon salt, and the chop- 
ped meat ; let simmer a few minutes, thicken with a tablespoon flour 
mixed in Avater, let boil once, take off and let cool ; put a layer of 
this in a pudding dish, then a layer of sliced hard-boiled eggs'and a 
few slices from cold boiled potatoes, then the rest of the meat, then 
eggs, etc. ; cover with a baking powder crust or a good paste ; make 
an opening in center, and bake forty minutes. Or for a Mixed Meat 
Pie, pound separately in a mortar one pound each sausage meat, 



668 COLD MEATS. 



cold boiled liver and veal, and add a seasoning of pepper, salt, 
minced parsley and one or two stalks young onions, chopped. Line 
bottom of baking dish with a good paste and put on this a layer of 
sausage meat with a few pieces of truffles here and there. Pound a 
pound of ham and put a layer of it over the sausage meat, with 
pieces of truffles, then a layer of veal with truffles, layer of liver with 
truffles and so alternate until dish is full. Add enough nice gravy to 
moisten, cover with nice light crust and bake in moderate oven un- 
til a good pale brown. The truffles may be omitted. For Meat and 
/^(??!a?!(9 ^^e, take cold beef or veal, chop, and season as for hash; 
have read}^ hot mashed potatoes seasoned for table, and put in a 
shallow baking dish first a layer of meat, then layer of potatoes, and 
so on, till dish is heaping fall ; smooth over top of potatoes, dot with 
bits of butter and bake until a nice brown. Some sprinkle the top with 
bread-crumbs. Or chop a quart of any cold meat fine ; season highly 
with salt and pepper, and put into a buttered, earthen baking dish. 
Chop a peeled onion very fine, fry it for two minutes with a table- 
spoon drippings, and pour over the meat. While chopping the meat 
and frying the onion, stew any bones from the meat in a cup cold 
gravy, or use water if no gravy is at hand, and strain it over the 
meat and onion ; cover meat an inch thick with cold mashed pota- 
toes, smooth top, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake the pie 
twenty minutes in a moderate oven. A nice Tongue Pie may be 
made by taking equal parts cold tongue and cold poultry or roast 
pork. Line an earthen pudding dish with good paste, put the two 
meats into it in layers, season each layer lightly with salt and pep- 
per ; when the dish is full add sufficient cold gravy of any kind to 
moisten — or if there is no gravy, a cup hot water, and tablespoon 
butter ; put an upper crust on the pie, wetting the edges of the crust 
to make them adhere ; cut a few slits in upper crust to permit the 
escape of steam, and brush over with melted butter or beaten egg. 
Bake in moderate oven an hour, or until the crust is nicely broM'ned, 
and serve either hot or cold. For a Raised Pie, take in proportion of a 
quarter pound lard for every pound flour, half a pint of water and a 
pinch salt. To make, add the lard to the water, bring to a boil, then 
pour it over the flour and mix as quickly as possible ; when mixed 
wrap in a cloth to keep warm. Make into shapes as on page 428 as 
rapidly as possible, and when cold it will retain any shape given it 
while warm. For filling, bone and boil two calf's feet; cut up and 
stew over a gentle fire for an hour two chickens, and two sweet- 
breads, in a quart of veal gravy and add the chopped calf's feet, 
season with cayenne pepper and salt, add six or eight boiled Force- 
meat Balls, four boiled eggs quartered ; stew till well heated,let stand 
until nearly cold, and put in pie, and finish as on page 428. In 
case the butter-lamb and aspic jelly are not liked ; after filling in 
meat, place four quarters of a hard-boiled egg at equal distances 
apart on top of meat, and strew a few cold green pease or asparagus 



COLD MEATS. 569 




tops on it. This gives a pretty effect, and saves the trouble of mak- 
ing tiie aspic jelly. The shell may be filled with any cold cooked 
meat. Rabbits make a nice filling, stewed with a nice cut or two of 
ham or salt pork. Make a force-meat out of the livers beaten in a 
mortar until fine, adding freely of pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, 
and a few sweet herbs. Partridges, or any game birds, may be used, 
bearing in mind that the pie is always to be served cold. Pie- 
molds may be used, in which case simply line mold with puff paste ; 
and another filling is to bone the fowl, or whatever bird is intended 
to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season the 
inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper and salt ; spread 
over it a layer of torce-nieat, then one of seasoned veal, then ham, 
and then another of force-meat, and roll fowl over, making skin 
meet at back. Line the paste with force-meat, put in fowl, fill up 
cavities with slices of seasoned veal and ham 
and force-meat,vvet rim of pie, put on the cover, ^ ^ 
pinch together with pastry pinchers, and ^liji 
decorate with leaves of paste and brush over pastry Pmchors. 

with yolk of egg, or brush with egg before adding leaves, and then 
the Die will bake a rich brown and the leaves remain a pale color, 
giving a very pretty effect. Make a good gravy from the bones, 
pour it through a funnel into the hole at top of pie, and bake four 
hours. Serve when cold, The gravy must be considerably reduced 
before it is poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a cold 
jelly. This is suitable for all kinds of poultry or game, using one or 
more birds, according to the size of pie intended to be made ; but 
birds must always be boned. Truflles, mushrooms, etc., added to 
pie, make it much nicer ; and, to enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of 
the poultry or game with thin strips of bacon. This method of 
forming raised pies in a mold is generally called a Timhale, and has 
the advantage of being more easily made than one where the paste 
is raised by the hands ; the crust, besides, being eatable. 

Meat BoU.—Choip any cold meat very fine, add an equal quan- 
tity mashed potato, or finely-chopped boiled potato, one egg, a little 
chopped onion and season with salt and pe]3per and a pinch sugar. 
Make into a roll nine inches long and three inches wide, or any size 
wished ; place in frying-pan with a little hot drip- 
pings or lard and brown all around +urning as 
needed ; or bake in oven. Serve hot on platter 
Meat Roll. surroundcd by a mcc gravy, made in the pan, or 

little onion pickles. It is nice for tea or lunch sliced cold, and gar- 
nished with red pickled beets. For Veal Boll, chop as above, seas- 
on with a teaspoon each finely minced lemon peel and mace, table- 
spoon chopped parsley, salt arid pepper, stir in beaten yolks of three 
eggs, add half cup gravy and cup bread-crumbs ; it should be just 
soft enough to handle without running into a shapeless mass. Flour 
the hands and make it into a roll about three times as long as it is 




570 COLD MEATS. 



broad ; flour the outside well and lay it in a greased baking pan, 
cover and set in oven until smoking hot, when remove the cover and 
brown quickly. Then brash over with white of egg, and return to 
oven a rninute or two, dish as above, using a pan-cake lifter, and 
garnish with croutons, (see soups) pouring a rich gravy over all. 

Meat Turnovers — Make dough as for soda biscuit, roll thin 
and cut in circles large or small as liked. Upon these put any kind 
of cold cooked meat or game chopped fine, seasoned with pepper 
and salt, catsup and sweet herbs and moistened well with cream or 
melted butter ; lay the meat on one side and turn over the other, 
moistening and pinching edges together carefully. These can be 
steamed, baked, or fried as Fritters, and are very good cold. When 
preparing for picnics, bake them. Some heat the meat with a little 
broth or water, seasoning as above and thickening with a little flour. 
If steamed, place the turnovers on a buttered plate and set in steamer. 

Meat bonders. — Chop fine any bits of cold meat, add half as 
much mashed potato as meat and same of bread broken up and 
moistened with hot water, a tablespoon flour made smooth with a 
little water, two or three beaten eggs and a little cold gravy. Season 
well, mix thoroughly, drop from a spoon into frying-pan containing 
a little hot butter or drippings and fry a nice brown on both sides, 
or add flour enough to make into balls and fry as above or bake in 
oven. Eggs may be omitted. 

Bread and Meat. — Cut two long slices cold meat and three of 
bread, buttered thickly, about same shape and size ; season meat 
with pepper, salt, and a little finely chopped parsley ; or, if veal, a 
little chopped ham; then lay one slice ot bread between two of meat 
and have the other two slices outside ; fasten together with wooden 
toothpicks. Bake in quick oven and baste with butter thoroughly, 
that the bread may be crisp and brown. If the oven cannot be de- 
pended on fry in very hot fat as doughnuts. Garnish with sprigs of 
parsley, and serve very hot. 

Ragout of Meat. — Slice cold meat, put in stewpan in which an 
onion has been sliced, or several if liked ; squeeze half a lemon in, 
or add tablespoon \dnegar, cover closely without water, and when 
it begins to cook, set pan on back of stove for three quarters of an 
hour, shaking occasionally. The onions should now be brown ; take 
out meat, dredge in a little flour, stir it round, and add a cup gravy, 
pepper, p.alt and a small quantity of any sauce or flavoring preferred ; 
stew gently a minute or two, then put the meat back to get hot, and 
serve ; garnish with croutons or pickles. 

Meat and Potato Puifs. — Take cold roast meat — ^beef or mut- 
ton, or veal and ham together — cut all gristle away, chop fine and 
season with pepper and salt, and chopped pickles, if liked. Boil 
and mash some potatoes, make them into a paste mth an egg, roll 



COTLD MEATS. 571 



out, dredging with flour, and cut round with a saucer ; put some of 
the seasoned meat upon one half, and fold the other over like a puff; 
pinch neatly round, and fry a light brown. 

Meat with Barley. — Take half pound any cold roasted or 
broiled meat, cut in dice ; three onions, chopped fine, and half cup bar- 
ley, washed. Put all in a stewpan, and dredge with tablespoon flour, 
half tablespoon salt, and saltspoon pepper. Add three pints water, 
and simmer two hours. Pare and slice seven potatoes. Add to the 
stew, and simmer one hour longer. Season more if necessary. 

Meat with Eggs. — Take pieces of any cold roast meat, trim ofl" 
fat and mince very fine. Fry a small onion, chopped fine, in plenty 
of butter ; when a light brown add a teaspoon flour, a little stock or 
gravy, the minced meat with chopped parsley, salt, pepper and nut- 
meg to taste. Mix well, add a little more stock if necessary and heat 
gradually on back of range; lastly add a few drops lemon juice; 
serve on small squares of bread fried in butter and place a poached 
egg on top of each, or serve the veal in center Avith poached eggs 
over it, and toasted bread around with chopped parsley on the squares^ 

BuWle and SqueaJc.-^Q\ii about two pounds cold meat in neat 
slices, put in pan with tablespoon of butter, and brown them ; chop 
a head of tender cabbage, put in with two tablespoons of butter, 
saltspoon salt, and quarter saltspoon pepper, and stir occasionally 
over the fire until quite tender; when both are done, lay the slices 
of meat in center of a hot dish, and cabbage around it ; serve hot. 

Philadelphia Scrapple. — Take remains of cold fowl or meat, 
two or three kinds may be used, cut into small pieces, season Avell 
and put in frying-pan with water to cover. When it boils thicken 
with corn meal stirred in carefully like mush and about as thick, 
and keep over fire until the meal is cooked, then pack into a long 
deep tin and when cold slice off and fry. Nice for breakfast. 

Stirabout. — Any cold boiled or roast meat is nice if cut into 
small pieces like marbles, then put in saucepan with water to cover 
v/ell and stew gently twenty minutes or so ; add salt, plenty of pep- 
per, and a half cup good strong vinegar — if not strong enough add 
more — stir well and let stew ; put a large spoonful dripping or butter 
in a skillet, add tablespoon flour, stir until browned and pour it over 
the meat, stir well and serve. A change from hash, and when prop- 
erly seasoned and prepared is very palatable. 

Broiled Beef. — Peel four or five potatoes, then cut round them 
as though paring an apple, season with salt and pepper and dip the 
strips thus made into a thin batter and fry in hot fat a nice brown. 
Cut neat slices from a cold roast of beef, season well, dip in melted 
butter, broil quickly and serve on hot platter with the prepared 



572 COLD MEATS. 



potato over them. Or broil the beef as above, and lay in a hot dish 
on a tablespoon melted butter, sprinkle with mushroom powder, and 
garnish with border of Saratoga potatoes. For Broiled Beef with 
Oyster Sauce^ put two dozen oysters in stewpan, with their liquor 
strained; add three cloves, blade of mace, two tablespoons butter, 
half teaspoon flour, and seasoning of pepper ana salt ; simmer gently 
five minutes. Have ready in the center of dish round walls of mashed 
potatoes, l)rowned ; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite hot, 
and round the potatoes place layers of slices of cold roast beef, Avhich 
should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire. For Broiled 
Beef with Mushroom Sauce, wipe two or three dozen small mush- 
rooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt ; put in stewpan 
with tablespoon butter, seasoning of cayenne pepper and tablespoon 
mushroom catsup ; stir over the fire until mushrooms are quite done, 
when pour in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then 
place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, broiled. In mak- 
ing mushroom sauce, catsup may be omitted if sufficient gravy. 

Maslied Beef. — Cut cold roast beef in rather thin slices, and 
have ready mashed potatoes free from lumps and highl}^ seasoned ; 
put the slices of meat in frying-pan with a little hot butter, and fry 
slightly, then spread mashed potatoes on both sides of the slices, 
single-bread them and frv brown in hot fat ; when done take up with 
skimmer, drain for a moment on brown paper and serve hot. 

Hashed Beef. — Put into a stewpan with whatever gravy may 
liaA'e been saved from roast beef the day it was roasted, a teaspoon 
each tomato sauce, Harvey's sauce and mushroom catsup with a 
tablespoon any flavored vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, a little 
flour to thicken and a finely minced onion. Simmer gently ten 
minutes, then take off fire, let gravy cool, and skim oft' fat. Cut 
cold roast beef into thin slices, dredge with flour, place in gravy and 
let the whole simmer gently ^.\q minutes, but not boil, or the meat 
will be tough. Serve very hot and garnish with croutons. Or cut 
off all the meat from the bones of cold roast ribs or sirloin of beef, 
remove the outside brown and gristle, and stew the bones and pieces 
vith two onions, a carrot, bunch savory herbs, blade of pounded 
mace, and pint water, for a])Out two hours, till it becomes a strong 
gravy, and is reduced to rather more than one half pint ; strain, 
thicken with a teaspoon flour, and let cool ; skim off" all fat, lay in 
meat cut in small bits, let it get hot through, but do not boil, dish 
and garnish with croutons. The gravy may be flavored as above. 
Meat prepared thus may be served within walls of mashed potatoes. 

Soused Beef. — Take the beef left from soup, cut away from the 
bone in small pieces, season with salt and pepper, and a little mace 
and pour hot vinegar over it, or an equal quantity water and strong 
vinegar. A nice supper dish, and may be warmed for breakfast. 



COLD MEATS. 



573 



Stewed Beef.—I*eel and cut two large onions into thin slices, 
put in stewpan with two tablespoons butter, set over slow fire and 
stir until brown, but not in the least burnt, add teaspoon brown 
flour, mix smoothly, moisten with a half pint broth, or water with a 
small piece of glaze, and add three saltspoons salt, oi less if broth 
was salted, two of sugar and one of pepper. Put in thin slices of 
cold lean beef, set on back of stove five minutes to heat through and 
serve on very hot dish garnished with fried potatoes or croutons. 
The onions may be omitted and a tablespoon Chili sauce added ; or 
for an Jrish Steio add sliced potatoes with the onions, omitting the 
sauce. Or for anv of the stews flavor to taste with spoonful tarra- 
gon or plain vinegar, or a teaspoon mushroom powder, or pinch of 
curry, or a few sweet herbs. 

Beef Fricassee.— Tut a pint water in stewpan and when it boils 
add tablespoon flour mixed smooth in little water, one of butter and 
pepper and salt. Cut cold roast beef in thin slices, put into the 
gravy and boil five minutes. If at hand use beef gravy instead of 
water and omit butter. May be served with boiled potatoes, toma- 
toes, rice or macaroni. For Beef Fritters, cut any cold beef into 
thin slireds, season well with pepper and salt and stir through the 
Meat Batter as above. Fry, drain and serve as directed in Fritters. 

Beef Hash.— Cold meat of any kind will do, but corned beef is 
best ; always remove all surplus fat and bits of bone and gristle, 
season with salt and pepper, chop fine, and to one-third of meat add 
• two-thirds of chopped cold boiled potato, and one onion chopped 
very fine ; a pickled onion can be used if not any fresh ones ; place 
in dripping-pan, dredge with a little flour, and pour in at side of pan 
enough water to come up level with the hash, place in oven and do 
not stir ; when flour is alight brown, and has formed a sort of crusty 
take out and add a piece of butter, stir it through several times, nnd 
a delicious Baked Hash will result. Or, by cooking longer, it may 
be made of cold raw potatoes, which peel, sHce, and let lie m salt 
and water a half hour before chopping. Or for Boston Hash, take 
equal parts cold corned beef and any kind cold poultry chopped fine. 
To one pint of each add raw yolks of two eggs, tablespoon butter, 
quart potatoes, peeled and mashed, an onion peeled and grated, and 
enough hot water or gravy of any kind to moisten; season with salt 
and cayenne, stir in the well-beaten whites, and put the hash in a 
buttered pudding dish and bake in quick oven half an hour ; serve 
hot in dish in which it was baked. For Fried Hash, take apint 
each chopped meat and potato ; chop an onion fine and brown it m 
two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add a gill of stock aiid 
when this is hot put in the chopped meat and potato ; season with 
pepper and salt and stir over fire until very hot. Serve heaped high 
in vegetable dish with a piece of butter placed in a hole on top made 
by pushing down with bowl of spoon. Some prefer to use more 



574 COLD MEATS. 



potato, and the onion may be omitted if not liked. Another way of 
serving is after stirring over fire mi til very hot to spread smoothly 
over the pan and set back where the hash may brown slowly, which 
should take about half an hour. When done, fold like an omelet, 
turn on a hot dish and garnish with points of toast and parsley. 
Any cold beef or other meat or a mixture may be used for this dish 
and if mashed potato is left over some use instead of the chopped. 
For Turkey Hash, pick meat off turkey bones, shred it in small bits, 
add dressing and pieces of light biscuit out up fine, mix together and 
put into dripping-pan, pour over any gravy that was left, add water 
to thoroughly moisten, but not enough to make it sloppy, and place 
in a hot oven for twenty minutes. 

Beef Loaf. — Add to one pint cold hashed beef seasoned to taste 
with pepper, salt, cloves and cinnamon, three or four rolled crackers 
or same quantity dry bread-crumbs, and two eggs, with meat stock 
to moisten ; bake twenty-five minutes. When cold slice for tea. 

Beef Patties. — Cut cold beef, or any kind of cold meat into 
very small square bits, season well with salt, pepper and a little 
gravy and chopped onion. Roll out a nice plain paste rather thin, 
fill with the meat, close in patty-shape and fry, or bake a light 
brown. Or line patty-pans with the paste, pat in the meat, cover 
with paste and bake. Or the paste may be omitted from top and 
bread-crumbs with bits of butter, sprinkled over. To make without 
the paste put the prepared meat in patty-pans, half filling them, 
cover with mashed potato, put bit butter on each and brown in oven. 

Beef Olives. — Take an equal quantity bread-crumbs and finely- 
chopped beef, some parsley and thyme, a little grated cold ham if 
at hand, a few cloves or slice of onion, all chopped fine. Put a lit- 
tle butter in a pan and let mixture just simmer, 7iot fry, for ten 
minutes. While this is cooking cut some underdone beef into ob- 
long slices about half an inch thick and hack them on both sides 
with a sharp knife ; then mix the cooked force-meat with the yolk of 
an egg and a tablespoon gravy, put a spoonful of it in the center of 
each slice of meat, and tie it up carefully in shape of an egg. Have 
ready some nice gravy thickened with flour rubbed in butter ; roll 
each olive lightly in flour, lay it in the gravy and s imm er y exy gcui\y 
half an hour. A few chopped oysters are a great addition to the 
gravy. If preferred, each olive may be rolled and tied in a very 
thin slice of fat pork, dipped in flour and baked in quick oven until 
nicely browned. A more simple way of preparing is to cut slices of 
underdone roast beef about half an inch thick ; sprinkle over bread- 
crumbs, minced shallot, a little fat and seasoning to taste ; roll each 
slice and fasten with a Avooden toothpick. Have ready some gravy 
made from the beef bones ; put in the pieces of meat and stew till 
tender, about an hour. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and 
flavor the gravy, and pour over the meat, and serve. 



COLD MEATS. 575 

Beef Pot-Pie.— Take two pounds cold roast beei, cut in rather 
thick oblong pieces, break the bones, cover with water, and simmer 
two or three hours for the gravy ; add sufficient water to this to make 
the quantity three pints, put in a gallon saucepan with level table- 
spoon salt, half teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon Chili sauce, the 
meat, and some potatoes cut in halves, and when it boils add tv/o 
tablespoons flour mixed smooth in a little cold water. Have ready 
a baking powder dough, or a raised crust is excellent and by some 
much preferred. For this take a piece of bread-dough and let it rise. 
When the stew is hoillng fast the crust may be added, either in one 
piece, with a center cut out, covering the whole ; or cut in long strips 
and placed in bars over the top ; closely cover and boil without stop- 
ping twenty minutes and then take off cover and set in oven for a 
few moments to brown. To serve, if the crust is in one piece place 
on the platter upside down, lay the meat on it, and pour the gravy, 
which may be thickened more if necessary, over it. Should there 
be but little meat in the stew put a teacup upside down on the bot- 
tom of the saucepan to help support the crust. This may be made 
of any fresh meat or poultry. 

Beef Pudding. — Mince a pound or more of cold roast beef, mix 
with it a teaspoon salt, sprinkling of pepper, and tablespoon flour. 
Make an ordinary pudding paste, fill it with the above mixture, put 
in not quite quarter pint water, and tablespoon chopped parsley and 
onion mixed ; tie in a cloth, and boil about seventy minutes. If 
liked, add chopped pickles, or a little good, well-seasoned vinegar. 

Beef Bollages. — When breakfast is over gather the good bits 
of steak, roast or any kind of beef left, and taking off superfluous 
fat, put beef into a pot with enough boiling water to cover, adding 
mustard, celery salt, pepper, cinnamon and cassia buds, if all or any 
are liked, or fresh bits of celery and sprigs of parsley, instead of 
celery salt, also a little onion if desired. Simmer meat all fore- 
noon, adding boiling water from time to time as needed. When 
thoroughly tender, juicy and" brown, take up, slip out bones, chop 
meat fine adding enough of the gravy to make it like thick mush. 
Take out of the hash bowl and place on a clean white cloth and form 
into long roll about three inches in diameter. Wrap and press the 
cloth tightly about it, several thicknesses, to keep the roll in form. 
Secure it with cord and place the roll in ice box, if warm weather, 
out in the cold, if cool ; in a few hours the meat will have cooled and 
hardened and can be cut in nice slices like tongue. Lamb and veal 
can be used in same way. Meat prepared in this way is good either 
before or after the bones are removed as a hot stew with brown gravy 
for dinner, or serve hot just after chopping as Spiced Meat on Toast. 

Beef au Gratin. — Cut a little fat bacon or pork very thin, put 
in bottom of baking dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley, onion 



576 COLD MEATS. 



and mushrooms, or mushroom powder, and bread-crumbs ; then put 
in a layer of thick shces of cold beef, well hacked, then another layer 
of pork or bacon, add seasoning, Avith crumbs over the top ; pour 
over enough broth or gravy to moisten well and bake slowly an hour. 

Beef a la Jardiniere. — Put a pint beef broth in thick saucepan 
with small bunch each parsley and chervil, very little tarragon and 
teaspoon each chopped shallot or onion, capers and pickled gher- 
kins ; rub a tablespoon Browned Flour with a large tablespoon 
butter and stir it in ; then take slices of underdone beef and with a 
blunt knife hack each piece all over in fine dice, but do not cut the 
slices through ; pepper and salt each slice and lay them in with the 
herbs, sprinkle a layer of herbs over the beef and cover closely, set 
in the oven and cook half an hour. Serve on a dish surrounded 
with young carrots and turnips, if in season, or old ones cut. 

Beef with Macaroni. — Chop lean or cold roast beef or steak 
very fine, separating it first from all fat; nearly fill a pudding dish 
with cold boiled or baked macaroni ; put the chopped beef in the 
center, flavored with salt, pepper, thyme, and, if liked, a little liquor 
poured from canned tomatoes. Pour soup stock or gravy over beef 
and macaroni, cover with bread-crumbs, over which pour two table-^ 
spoons melted butter and bake half an hour. 

Beef with Oysters. — Cut rather thick steaks from cold sirloin 
or ribs of beef; brown them lightly in stewpan, with two tablespoons 
butter and a little water ; add one half pint water, a sliced onion, pep- 
per, and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and simmer ver}' gently for 
Iialf au hour ; then mix about a teaspoon flour smoothly with a little 
of the liquor ; add one or two dozen oysters, having previously 
strained their liquor into the stewpan ; stir till the oysters are plump, 
then serve. Do not boil after oysters are added, as it toughens them. 
For Beef and Oyster Pie, place some slices cold boiled potatoes 
in pudding dish and pour in the above ; cover with good paste, with 
au opening in center, and bake one hour. Omit onions if wished. 

Beef with Tomatoes. — Fry two small onions, chopped, in two 
tablespoons butter ; then add eight or nine tomatoes, cut fine, and 
season with salt, pepper and lierbs if liked. When tomatoes are 
cooked, add pint chopped cold meat and serve when heated through. 

Lamh Squares. — Cut underdone lamb, or mutton will do, quite 
small and coarsely chop some mushrooms, or use the powder in- 
stead. Put in saucepan piece of glaze size of pigeon's egg ; heat with a 
little water or broth, add two yolks and when thickened without boil- 
ing, take off, add the mushrooms and meat, let all get cold, and cut in 
small squares ; double-bread them and fry in very hot fat ; or after 
rolling in bread-crumbs, lay each piece in a spoon and dip into frit- 
ter batter; let the extra batter run off, and drop the squares into 



CPLD MEATS. 577 



the hot fat. These will be good made of beef and rolled up in pieces 
of fat pork cut thin, and fried ; serve with a Pickle Dressing made 
thus : Simmer some chopped parsley, onion and pickled cucumbers 
till tender, and thicken with an equal quantity Kennebec Butter and 
flour. If in a hurry, tablespoon each butter and flour, melted in a 
little water, adding teaspoon vinegar, will make an excellent sauce, 
and is delicious for anything fried, as breaded chops, croquettes, etc. 
Mashed, cold cooked pease may be used in place of the mushrooms. 

Deviled Lamh. — Score a cold shoulder, leg or breast of lamb to 
the bone about an inch apart and season highly with salt, white and 
red pepper, mustard and Worcestershire sauce ; put on a gridiron 
and brown quickly over hot fire. Serve hot with Worcestershire sauce. 

Fried Lamh. — Neatly trim slices of cold roast lamb and fry in 
butter a pale brown. Serve on a puree of cucumber or spinach. Or 
single-bread them and fry in hot lard, till a light brown and serve 
with a gravy poured over flavored with a few drops lemon juice and 
a little nutmeg. Mutton or veal prepared same way. 

Deviled Liver. — Take underdone liver of a roast or boiled fowl 
or turkey ; mash it smooth on a dish placed over the teakettle ; add 
a little butter, some mustard, salt and cayenne, with a teaspoon an- 
chovy sauce or mushroom catsup. Spread on toast, and serve hot. 

Curried Mutton. — Slice in thin rings, put them into a stewpan 
with four tablespoons butter, and fry light brown ; stir in a table- 
spoon curry powder, and flour, salt to taste and mix all well together. 
Or, cut remains of any joint of cold mutton into nice thin slices (if 
there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), and add to the 
other ingredients ; when well browned, add a gill of stock or gravy, 
and stew gentl}^ for about half an hour. Serve in a dish with a bor- 
der of boiled rice. Curried Beef may be prepared in same way. 

Masked Mutton. — Cut cold roast or boiled mutton in slices 
about half an inch thick, and cover both sides with sauce made a? 
follows : Put two tablespoons butter in frying-pan, and when melte(X 
add one of flour and stir until smooth ; add, gradually, one cup stock. 
and two tablespoons glaze, boil one minute, and stir in yolks of two 
eggs ; season with salt, pepper, and tablespoon lemon juice, and re- 
move from fire at once. Season the mutton with salt and pepper 
and as soon as the sauce begins to cool, dip slices in it, and roll in 
fine bread-crumbs. Beat one Avhole egg and two whites together, 
dip the sauced mutton in this and again in the crumbs, and fry and ■ 
drain as Fritters. Serve with either tomato or tartare sauce. Masked 
Beef or Yeal cooked in same way. 

Smothered Mutton — Cut cold boiled mutton into slices, place 
them neatly in flat vegetable dish, season each lightly with salt, pep- 



578 COLD MEATS. 



per and cayenne. Melt two tablespoons butter and when hot pour 
half over the meat, and into the other half stir a tablespoon flour, 
and add a gill of stock. Let boil and add teaspoon sugar, a season- 
ing of salt, pepper and cayenne, and a pint cold stewed tomatoes. 
Cook until tomatoes are very hot, then pour all over the slices of 
mutton, cover tightly and send to table. 

Scalloped Mutton. — Cut about a pound cold roast or boiled 
mutton into very small pieces, not much larger or thicker than a 
silver quarter ; stew the bone half an hour or more, to make a pint 
of broth; strain it and simmer with the mutton half an onion, pep- 
per and salt for fifteen minutes, adding two tablespoons butter and 
four of flour rubbed together two or three minutes, before taking uj). 
Butter the lower part of a two-quart pudding dish, and put in a thin 
layer of mashed potato, then half of tlie mutton, a thicker layer of 
potato, the rest of the mutton, and a last layer of potato, Avhich must 
be glazed with the yolk of an egg ; bake until thoroughl}^ heated. 

Mutton, Collops. — Cut very thin slices from a cold leg or the 
chump end of loin of mutton, sprinkle with pepper, salt, powdered 
mace, minced savory herbs and shallot and fry very quickly in hot 
butter ; stir in a tablespoon flour, add a half pint gravy and table- 
spoon lemon juice, simmer gently from flve to seven minutes and 
serve immediately. The meat must be vern lightly fried, just thor- 
oughly heated through in pan hot enough to brown quickly. 

Mutton Hash. — Chop fine a pound and ahalf of the remains of 
roast mutton and put in a stewpan with a cup mutton gravy or stock ; 
season with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg ; add a table- 
spoon flour, and let the meat heat gradually until hot, but do not 
boil. Simmer twenty minutes, and serve with poached eggs placed 
neatly round the dish, or on a platter surrounded with mashed pota- 
toes. A spoonful of Worcestershire sauce may be added. Some 
poach the eggs in boiling water, with half cup vinegar, teaspoon but- 
ter and level tablespoon salt, serving the hash on slices of toast with 
an egg on top. Hash made from poultry is nice served thus. For 
Baked Mutton Hash., chop cold mutton very fine, season with pep- 
per, salt and half cup milk. Chop an onion also very fine, brown 
in a tablespoon hot lard and stir into the mince. Boil potatoes in 
proportion to the quantity of meat, mash smooth and season vrith 
butter, pepper and salt. Line baking dish with potatoes, put in tlie 
hash and cover with potatoes except a place in the middle as large 
as a saucer. Beat the yolk of an egg and brush over the potatoes. 
Bake half an hour. 

Mutton Pie. — Cold mutton may be made into good pies if well- 
seasoned and mixed with a few herbs ; if the leg is used, cut into very 
thin slices ; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place a layer in 
bottom <^i dish, season well "o-'ith nepper. salt, mace, parsley and 



COLD MEATS. 579 



herbs ; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so 
on till the dish is full ; add a cup gi'avy, cover with a crust, and bake 
one hour. Or cut into square pieces about two pounds cold roast or 
boiled mutton, trimming otF a portion of the fat, and quarter three 
kidneys ; put all in pudding dish, season with two tablespoons 
chopped parsley, one of powdered herbs, salt and pepper, and half 
an onion minced ; add half a pint of light stock or water, tablespoon 
vinegar; cover with puff paste, brush evenly with Roll Glaze, and 
bake an hour. Cold lamb makes a very nice pie. For Mutton Pie 
with Tomatoes^ spread the bottom of dish with bread-crumbs, and 
fill with alternate layers of cold roast mutton, cut in thin slices, and 
tomatoes peeled and[ sliced ; season each layer with pepper, salt and 
bits of butter. The last layer should be of tomatoes spread with 
bread-crumbs. Bake three-quarters of an hour and serve immediately. 

Mutton Rissoles. — Chop fine a half pound cold mutton and two 
ounces beef suet ; mix with three ounces boiled rice, season with 
salt and pepper and roll into small rolls or any shapes fancied, single- 
bread them and fry a nice brown in hot fat. Serve with a gravy 
poured round them and a little in a tureen. Or for Mutton Balls, 
omit the suet, make into balls and tie each in a piece of cabbage 
leaf; put in hot water and boil half an hour ; serve hot. 

Mutton Relish. — Take pieces cold mutton and place in the 
bottom of a meat mold which has a perforated 
lid that sinks well into the mold and is screwed 
in place by a valve-pipe ; season, add some 
broth or gravy, put on lid and on top place 
nicely seasoned mashed potatoes mixed with a 
Meat Mold. Httlc uillk ; suiooth over and dot the surface 

with capers, if liked. Bake in oven till brown. The potatoes retain 
all the savory steam rising from the meat, and it is a delicious dish. 
Fresh mutton cutlets or pieces of the round of beef are nice prepared 
in this way, adding a few bits of butter to the meat. 

Miitton Steiv. — Cut remains of cold roast mutton in nice even 
slices, trimming off all superfluous fat and gristle ; chop bones and 
fragments of joint and put in stewpan with six each pepper-corns 
and whole allspice, bunch sweet herbs, and half head celery ; cover 
with water and simmer an hour. Slice an onion and fry pale brown 
and add. Stew fifteen minutes, strain and let cool ; then strain off 
all fat and put the gravy with the slices of mutton in stewpan, flavor 
with catsup or tomato or mushroom sauce, or with anything liked 
and heat through thoroughly, but do not boil. Serve in hot dish. 
Or With Onions., cook tender three or four onions, sliced crosswise, 
in water, add mutton as above, season, and stir in thickening of flour. 

Mutton and Macaroni. — Boil two ounces macaroni until just 
tender, but not enough to break, and set by to cool. Chop three. 




580 COLD MEATS. 



quarters pound cold roast mutton, add teaspoon curry, one and a 
half of salt, tablespoon butter, beaten egg and gill milk. Cut the 
macaroni in bits, half an inch long and mix lightly with the mutton. 
Butter a pie-pan and form into a smooth round oval mass in center. 
Spread half tablespoon butter over and put in oven ; when well 
heated cover with beaten egg, seasoned with a small pinch salt and 
half teaspoon curry ; sprinkle finely sifted l)read-crumbs over and 
set in oven to brown. Serve on platter garnished with parsley. 

Mutton with Pickles. — Cut cold roast mutton into neat, thin 
slices, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, bread-crumb them well on 
both sides, first wetting in gravy qr melted butter, put neatly in a 
dish, and over them a layer of chopped pickles, and slightly moisten 
with pickle vinegar and gravy. Heat them in oven, and serve with 
croutons or potato balls. Any cold meat may be cooked thus. 

Mock Saddle of Mutton. — Cut remains of roast saddle of mut- 
ton close to the bone, leaving about one inch wide on outside, and 
cut into small dice with some of the fat. Fry a tablespoon chopped 
onions in stewpan with a little butter a moment, and add the meat 
with a tablespoon flour, a little grated nutmeg and high seasoning 
of salt and pepper; stir, and moisten with a gill or so of broth, add 
a bay leaf and set on stove about ten minutes, then stir in two yolks 
of eggs and cook and stir until rather thick. Have ready about two 
pints mashed potato firm enough to roll ; put the saddle bone in the 
middle of dish and with the potatoes form an edge round it in the 
shape of a saddle, leaving middle empty, which fill with the prepared 
meat. Brush over with beaten egg, sprinkle with sifted bread- 
crumbs, and brown in oven. 

Ragout of Mutton. — Slice two each turnips, carrots and onions ; 
put in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, and brown them. 
Dust in little flour and stir the whole to prevent browning 
too quickly, and turn out upon a hot dish until wanted. 
Cut up cold roast mutton into square pieces, and brown on each 
side in same pan in which vegetables were cooked ; then add half 
pint hot water, salt and pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the 
sliced vegetables. Stew gently until vegetables are tender ; arrange 
the vegetables in center of dish, with the meat as a border, pour the 
sauce over all, and serve. When in season ^reen pease may be sub- 
stituted for the turnips and carrots ; they should be served piled in 
center of dish with the chops around. 

Pork Cake. — Cut meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast 
pork, and mince it very fine ; mix with it two large potatoes freshly 
boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a 
little powdered sage. Add two or three eggs and a little milk, suffi- 
cient to make a very thick batter. Fry the cake like an omelet, or 
bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. 



COLD MEATS. * 581 



Pork Cheese. — Cut, but do not chop tw« pounds cold roast pork 
into fine pieces, and allow a quarter pound fat to each pound lean. 
Season with pepper and salt ; add two blades mace, pounded, a 
tablespoon finely chopped parsley, four leaves sage and bunch of 
herbs, also chopped, with half teaspoon chopped lemon peel. Mix 
all well together, put in mold, fill up with good, strong, nicely fla- 
vored gravy ana bake an hour or more. When cold turn out of 
mold and serve. Nice for breakfast or luncheon. 

Pork Cutlets. — Cut the remains of 'cold roast loin of pork into 
nice-sized cutlets, trim ofi" most of the fat, and chop two onions. Put 
tablespoon butter in stewpan, lay in the cutlets and chopped onions, 
and fry a light brown ; then add a half pint gravy, tablespoon flour 
pepper and salt to taste and teaspoon vinegar and mustard, simmer 
gently five or seven minutes, and serve. Garnish with large cucum- 
ber pickles sliced crosswise, three-quarters of an inch thick. This is 
also a nice garnish for Fried Salt Pork, serving a ring or two with 
the meat. 

Pork Hash. — Chop fine bits of cold boiled pork, and put into 
a hot frying-pan. Fry until brown, and pour off" nearly all the 
grease. Have ready some chopped potatoes ; mix with pork, add a 
little water to prevent burning, season, and cook like any other hash. 
Add a little chopped onion if liked, and a teaspoon dry mustard or 
prepared horse-radish gives a nice relish to this as well as Beef Hash. 

Sausage Rolls. — Chop very fine a half pound cold pork, also 
four sage leaves and mix with the meat. Season with half teaspoon 
pepper, grain of cayenne, and half teaspoon salt, and moisten with 
a little gravy. Make a dough of a pint of flour, teaspoon baking- 
powder, one and a half gills cold water, four tablespoons butter, an 
egg and half teaspoon salt ; knead lightly, roll out quarter of an inch 
thick, cut into pieces four inches long and three wide and brush 
edges with white of egg ; put a portion of the chopped pork in each 
piece, gather up the edges, pinch together, brush over with beaten 
white of egg, put on floured tin and bake in hot oven half an hour. 
Any cold meat may be used. 

Ham Balls. — Chop fine cold cooked ham ; add an egg for each 
person, and a little flour ; beat together, make into balls, and fry 
brown in hot butter. Or mix four ounces grated or finely chopped 
cold ham with a pint mashed potato, a half gill cream to which two 
tablespoons butter have been added, and season with half teaspoon 
pepper. Make into round or oval balls, put in frying basket and 
brown in hot fat. Pile on platter and garnish with curled parsley. 

Ham Omelet. — Chop fine half pound cold boiled ham ; add four 
well-beaten eggs, with a little salt and pepper ; then place in pan a 
small piece butter, put in mixture and brown. 



582 COLD MEATS. 



Ham Pie. — Pick cold' ham into small fine pieces ; boil a cup 
rice, beat up two eggs and stir in with the ham and rice ; season with 
pepper, salt and onions, put into a deep pan, with crust, and bake. 

Ham PufFs. — Stir a pint flour into pint boiling water, mix, beat 
well, and cook until the stiff batter parts from the bowl, then beat 
in four eggs one by one ; add three ounces finely chopped ham and 
a pinch of cayenne, or two-thirds teaspoon curry, and half teaspoon 
salt, unless the ham is quite-salt. Drop in deep hot lard, in bits 
half as large as an egg. A side dish for dinner; nice with chicken, 
turkey, or veal. 

Ham Relish. — Cut small slices of cold ham, and fry in their 
own fat. Place in warm dish and keep covered while preparing 
this sauce : Take two teaspoons made mustard, generous pinch of 
pepper, teaspoon white sugar, half cup vinegar, half teaspoon corn- 
starch, mix well, and add to gravy in the pan ; boil up once or twice 
and pour hot over ham. Cover and send to table. 

Grated Ham. — This is one of the nicest relishes for supper or 
lunch. Cut a good-sized piece from the thickest portion of a boiled 
ham, trim off the fat, grate the lean part, and put in the center of a 
platter; slice some tiny slips of the fat and place around the edge, 
together with some tender hearts of lettuce-heads, and serve for sup- 
per or lunch. For Ham Sandwiches^ place between thin slices of 
buttered bread. 

Scalloped Ham. — Chop fine the scraps left from boiled ham, 
add some of the fat also chopped, and put in an earthen pudding 
dish, first a layer of bread-crumbs, then a layer of mixed fat and 
lean, then another layer of crumbs, and so on till all are used, putting 
a few bits of fat over top ; pour over it a little water, or a dressing of 
some kind, and set in oven till a nice brown. This is delicious for 
breakfast, or for a picked up dinner, after having made a Ham Soup 
from the bone, well cracked and simmered for three hours with a 
few sliced potatoes and rice, or dried corn and beans which have first 
been soaked and parboiled. 

StuiTed Ham. — A nice way of re-serving a ham from which few 
slices have been cut is to make a stuffing of bread-crumbs, seasoned 
with pepper and celery seed, and heated with a small bit of butter. 
Fill space in ham with this dressing, restoring as far as possible the 
form of ham, and leaving a smooth surface ; heat slowly in oven and 
bake half an hour, then cover with grated bread and sprinkling of 
sugar ; brown, and serve. Or fill space with seasoned mashed potato. 

Ham with. Currant Jelly. — Put half glass of currant jelly, a 
small bit of butter, and a little pepper in saucepan ; when hot, put 
in thinly-sliced boiled ham and let thoroughly heat and serve at 



COLD MEATS. 583 



0-nce. For Ham with Vhieffar, cut cold ham thin, and broil it; 
place on platter and pour over two or three spoonfuls hot vinegar 
and pepper. If vinegar is very strong, add a little water. 

Curried Veal. — Slice four onions and two apples, and fry in a 
little butter ; then take out, cut cold roast veal into neat cutlets, and 
fry these a pale brown ; add two tablespoons curry-powder and 
flour, put in onions, apples, and a little broth or water, and stew 
gently till quite tender ; add a tablespoon lemon juice, and serve 
with an edging of boiled rice. May be ornamented with pickles, 
capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on top. 

Hashed Veal. — Take half pint each cold veal minced fine and 
dry bread-crumbs ; mix, season with salt and pepper, add gravy or 
white sauce, heat thoroughly but do not boil and serve on slices of 
buttered toast. Or fried bread-crumbs may be lightly strewn over 
or served in little heaps on the meat, or Force-meat Balls used as 
garnish. Or take about a pound of cold roast veal, and should there 
be any bones, dredge them with flour, and put in stewpan with the 
brown outside from the roast and a few meat trimmings ; add a pint 
or more of water, an onion cut in slices, a half teaspoon lemon peel, 
blade of mace, pounded, two or three young carrots and bunch oi 
sweet herbs ; simmer these well an hour, and strain the liquor. Rub 
a little flour into some butter ; add this to the gravy, set it on the 
fire, and when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by cutting, 
not chopping it and put in the gravy; let warm through gradually, 
add the lemon juice and cream, and when on point of boiling, serve. 
Garnish with croutons and slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Force- 
meat Balls may also be added. If more lemon peel is liked add a 
little to the veal, after it is ^varmed in -the gravy. 

Jlolded Veal. — Mince three-fourths pound cold roast veal very 
fine, after removing from it all skin and outside pieces, and chop a 
small «lice of bacon ; mix these well together, and add a third of a 
teaspoon minced lemon peel, half an onion chopped fine, salt, pe])- 
per and pounded mace to taste and a slice of toast soaked in milk. 
When all are thoroughly mixed, beat up an egg, with which to bind 
the mixture. Butter a pudding dish, put in the meat, and bake three- 
quarters of an hour ; turn it out of the mold carefully, and pour 
round it a good brown gravy, or set dish in pan of water and cook 
for an hour on top of stove, then spread over with beaten egg, sift 
with bread-crumbs and brown in oven. A sheep's head may be 
dressed in this manner and is an economical and savory dish. 

Veal Collops. — Cut cold roast veal into pieces thickness of cut- 
lets, about two inches in diameter, flour well, and fry a light brown 
in butter ; dredge again with flour, and add half pint water, pouring 
it in by degrees ; set on fire, and when it boils, add an onion and 
blade of mace, and simmer gently about throe-quarters of an hour; 



584 COLD MEATS. 



flavor gravy with a tablespoon lemon juice,half teaspoon of the finely 
minced peel and tablespoon mushroom catsup. Give one boil and 
pour it over the collops. Garnish with lemon and slices of toasted 
bacon, rolled. If cream is not at hand, use yolk of an egg beaten 
up well Avith a little milk. Or, cut the veal as above, hack with a 
knife and sprinkle over the pieces a half teaspoon nutmeg, two blades 
mace, pounded, and cayenne and salt to taste, and fry in a little but- 
ter. Dish them, and make gravy in pan by adding tablespoon flour, 
quarter pint water, teaspoon anchovy sauce, tablespoon each lemon 
juice and mushroom catsup, three of cream and quarter teaspoon 
minced lemon peel. 

Veal Dice. — Cut cold veal into little pieces or dice and turn 
over them a mixture of parsley and chopped onion, seasoned with 
vinegar, pepper and salt. Let stand until ready to fry ; then put a 
little butter on them and fry them in hot lard to a rather dark brown 
color. Cold fowl is nice cooked same way. 

Veal Patties. — Mince a little cold veal and ham. allowing one- 
third ham to two-thirds veal ; add an egg boiled hara and chopped, 
and a seasoning of mace, salt, pepper, and lemon peel ; moisten with 
a little gravy and cream. Make a good puff paste, roll rather thin, 
and cut into round or square pieces ; put the mince between two of 
these, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. 
They may be also baked in patty-pans, when they should be brushed 
over with yolk of egg before put in oven. Oysters may be substi- 
tuted for the ham. 

Veal Pudding. — Prepare thin slices of cold veal, three inches 
wide, as in first recipe Veal Olives, page 532 ; place in dish^ pour 
in a cup gravy and four tablespoons cream, cover with a pun crust 
and bake from one to two hours, according to size of pie. 

Veal Relish. — Make a sauce of milk or water, a large onion, 
sliced, a slice of salt pork or ham if liked, also a little sliced cucum- 
l^er; add sliced cold veal and thicken with yolks of one or two eggs, 
added after the whole has simmered twenty minutes, and it must 
not boil after the eggs are added. In winter, chop a teaspoon pickled 
cucumber or capers and add just before sending to table. When 
sliced cucumber is used add juice of half a lemon the last thing. 
The dish may be varied by addmg sometimes a few chopped oysters, 
mushrooms or celery. Celery should be put in with the onion be- 
fore the meat. 

Fillet of Veal ati Bechamel. — Take a fillet of veal that has been 
roasted the preceding day, cut the middle out rather deep, leaving 
a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there 
should be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with any force-meat. 
JNIince finely the meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of 



©OLD MEATS. 585 



the force-meat to flavor, and add sufficient bechamel sauce to make 
the proper consistency. Warm the fillet in oven about an hour, 
taking care to baste it well, put the mince in the place where the 
meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over it, and drop 
a little clarified butter on the crumbs ; put it into the oven for fifteen 
minutes to brown, pour bechamel sauce round sides of dish and serve. 

Ragout of Veal. — Any part of cold veal will do for this dish. 
Cut the meat into neat pieces, put in stewpan with tablespoon but- 
ter, and frv light brown ; add half pint gravy or hot water, thicken 
with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about fifteen minutes ; 
season with pepper, salt, and mace ; add tablespoon mushroom cat- 
sup, and dessertspoon lemon juice ; give on^s boil and serve. Gar- 
nish with Force-meat Balls and fried rashers of bacon. This recipe 
may be varied by adding vegetables, such as pease, cucumbers, let- 
tuce, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two green goose-berries 
(not seedy), all of which should be fried a little with the meat, and 
then Btewed in the gravy. In slicing any cold meat for cooking al- 
ways cut across the grain. 

Yeal with Macaroni. — Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet 
of veal, trim off" the brown outside, and mince the meat finely with 
three tablespoons chopped ham for every three-fourths pint veal ; 
should the meat be very dry, add tablespoon good gravy. Season 
highly with pepper and salt, add quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg 
and quarter pint bread-crumbs, and mix these ingredients with one 
or two well-beaten eggs, which should bind the mixture and make it 
like force-meat. In the meantime, boil a quarter pound macaroni 
in salt and water, and drain it ; butter a mold, put some of the maca- 
roni at the bottom and sides, in whatever form liked ; mix the re- 
mainder with the force-meat, fill the mold up to the top, put a plate 
or small dish on it, and steam for half an hour. Turn out carefully, 
and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the meat. 

Cheese Sandwiches. — Grate any good cheese. Pine-apple is best, 
mix with mayonnaise dressing and place between thin slices of 
bread. Nice lor a picnic or traveling lunch. When preparing any 
sandwiches for such an object do not make the dressing as moist as 
if to be eaten at home. The better way, if one does not object to the 
trouble, is to put dressing in a glass jar and mix sandwiches as needed. 

Egg Sandwiches. — Boil very hard as many eggs as wanted, chop 
or pound fine, add butter, pepper, salt and made mustard to taste, 
ana spread between slices of bread. 

Ham Sandwiches. — Chop fine cold, boiled ham, and mix with 
the yolks of raw eggs, a little pepper, and mustard and spread be- 
tween thin slices of oread. Roll up like Wedding Sandwich Rolls on 
page 48. Or add melted butter and cream to the chopped ham until 



586 COLD MEATS. 




smooth like a paste, omitting the egg. Season well with salt and 
pepper and spread between buttered slices of bread. Some chop the 
ham very fine, season with tablespoon each 
olive oil and lemon juice and a little cayenne 
and mustard, then rub through a sieve and 
Ham si:^«ichc3. sprcad between the slices. A nice way of mak- 

ing sandwiches when ham has to bo boiled for the purpose instead 
of using cold remains, is to chop it very fine while yet warm, fat and 
lean together, with an equal quantity lean veal, boiled or roasted ; 
rub dry mustard with it to taste,with a pinch of cayenne, and a clove 
of garlic chopped, greatly improves it ; add as much sweet butter as 
would be spread on bread for sandwiches and mix well ; have some 
cold soda biscuit ; cut in two and spread the mixture between, or 
use muffins instead, or bread may be used. These are very nice for 
a picnic or festival table, aiid not half the work of those made in the 
usual way, as it saves buttering the bread. 

Ltmch, Sandwiches. — Chop sardines, -ham and a few pickles 
quite fine ; mix with mustard, pepper, salt, vinegar, and catsup if 
liked ; spread between bread nicely buttered. Cut crosswise. 

Mixed Sandwiches. — Chop fine some cold boiled ham, a little 
fat with the lean ; add equal part tongue and chicken also chopped 
fine ; make a dressing of a half pound butter, three tablespoons salad 
oil, three of mustard, yolk of one egg, and a little salt ; mix well to- 
gether and spread smoothly on thin slices of bread. Ham alone may 
be prepared thus. Either mixturies very nice. 

Reception Sandwiches. — Take equal quantities of the breast of 
a cold boiled chicken and cold boiled tongue, chop very fine, so fine 
in fact that the separate particles cannot be distinguished, add a 
half teaspoon celery salt, a pinch of cayenne, teaspoon anchovy 
paste and four tablespoons mayonnaise dressing. This quantity 
will be enough to season the breast of one large chicken and an equal 
quantity of tongue. When perfectly cold, spread some thin slices 
of buttered bread with this mixture. ' Or take a fcAv small leaves of 
lettuce, dip each leaf in a little tarragoii vinegar, shake it, and place 
it on a slice of bread ; spread a layer of the prepared meat over the 
lettuce, then another leaf of lettuce over the meat, and add other 
slice of bread, trim off the crust and cut each sandwich in two. Ham 
and veal make a nice Salad Sandwich. The meat may be spread on 
the bread and the lettuce in the center, if preferred. Nicer not pre- 
pared till ready to serve. Some prefer to pound the meat, after chop- 
ping coarsely, add lump of butter and season with salt, pepper, nut- 
meg and ground mace, instead of the mayonnaise. Spread this 
paste on thin slices of buttered bread, cut square, put two together, 
and cut again crosswise into triangles, which form on dishes into 
any fancy shape and send to table. 



COLD MEATS. 587 



Toast Sandwiches. — Cut the crust from a loaf stale bread, then 
cut very thin slices, and toast a delicate brown. Butter lightly and 
spread with any kind of potted meat or fish. Put two slices together, 
and, with a sharp knife, cut them in long strips. Arrange these 
tastefull}^ on a dish and serve at tea or evening parties. Sardines 
may be pounded to a paste and mixed with the yolks of pounded 
hard-boiled eggs, and used instead of potted meats, when the slices 
of bread may be fried in salad oil. 

Tongue Sandwiches. — Boil a good-sized tongue four or five 
hours, not boiling hard, but just simmering, leave in pot until water 
is cold, then skin it, and when ready to make the sandwiches, cut 
slices thin as wafers, using a sharp, thin-bladed knife ; rub a small 
quantity of mustard into a large slice of sweet butter and cut slices 
of bread as thin as they can be shaved ; spread them with the pre- 
pared butter and lay pieces of tongue ""between two slices j then cut 
the slices in halves. 

Sandwich Dressing. — Mix j^-olks of two hard-boiled eggs, tea- 
spoon each made mustard and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two table- 
spoons vinegar and one of salad oil. Chop any meat fine, mix with 
the dressing and spread between slices of bread. 

Sandwich Rolls. — After cutting off top of a French Roll, re- 
move carefully the crumb from the inside. Cut in small dice, cold 
boiled chicken and tongue, half and half, and twice as much celery 
.as meat ; mix with any salad dressing liked and fill the roll, cover- 
ing with the cut-off top. These are nice for either luncheon or when 
iiraveling, and cold cooked lobster, cut in dice and mixed as above, 
may also be used. 

ClariHed Drippings. — The fat which rises when boiling beef, 
pork or poultry, the drippings from the roasting and frying pan, 
and all trimmings of fat from meats should be carefully put away 
in a crock kept for the purpose and "tried out" and clarified fevery 
two or three days in summer, but in winter once a week will do. To 
prevent danger of its becoming scorched, some skim off drippings 
from roast before the meat is entirely cooked. To clarify, cut up 
any trimmings of fat in small pieces,'put in skillet, cover, try out 
slowly, stir occasionally, and skim well ; add cakes of fat saved from 
top of meat liquor, scraping the under side well, slice a raw potato 
and cook in it (some add a pinch of soda), let stand a few minutes 
to settle, strain all the clear part into a tin can or stone jar ; or clarify 
by pouring boiling water over drippings, stir over fire a few mo- 
ments to wash away all impurities, and strain through muslin or a 
fine sieve, let cool, take off the cake that foriiis oa top, scrape 
the refuse from the bottom, put it again in skillet and heat until 
all water is out, then pour into jar, and it will be found very nice to 
use either alone or with butter and lard in frying. Some instead of 



588 COLD MEATS. 



cooking the prepared drippings in hot water, put in a bowl or crock, 
pour over boiling water, add a little Bait, stir well and set away ; when 
cold, remove the cake on top, leaving the water and impurities at 
bottom, scrape the bottom as above and put cake in more boiling 
water till it melts, then stir again, adding pinch of salt and let cool. 
Now take off cake of fat, scrape it as before, and heat it and pour 
into jar, and it will keep a month or two in cold weather. The 
clearest and whitest drippings should be kept to use for shortening 
doughnuts and biscuit, and some prefer it to butter in common cake, 
or lard in pastry. As a frying mixture, clarified drippings are con- 
sidered even more wholesome than butter, and many persons who 
cannot eat articles fried in lard will suffer no inconvenience from 
those fried in beef fat. Drippings also do very well for basting all 
roasts except game and poultry. The fat from boiling ham or from 
boiling meats with vegetabies is never fit for cooking purposes, but 
should be thrown into the soap grease. After skinnmg and trim- 
ming the boiled ham, the fat which remains may be tried out and 
used for drippings, and is as sweet as butter. Mutton fat should 
always be clarified by itself and used for chapped hands and lips. 
Any fat not nice enough for the above uses should be tried out and 
kept for soap grease. Full directions for the care of such drippings 
are given in Laundry department . 



MUSH. 589 



MUSH. 



The growing popularity of the various mushes as a breakfast 
dish demands that the different ways of preparing, serving etc., 
should be well known to every housekeeper. They are either boiled 
or steamed and for the finer meals as Graham, gluten, rye, etc., the 
nicer way is to cook in a custard kettle, rather than an ordinary one 
*,^ ^ as most of them require long cooking. The 

^^^v^ ^-l^^^i^ inner kettle can be placed on stove while the 
^^^^^^^^^^y meal is being added in order that the salted 

m' -'•l^iH "^^^^^ "^^y ^® ^®P^ lolling all the time, as this 
j» .plIIIJH is very important, for the meal must be scald- 
^^^^gjl^PIp ed at once and commence to cook immediate- 
castard Kettle. ly g^n(j jf ^jjg watcr ccascs to boll, meal 

must not be added till it boils again. When thick enough, stir 
for a few minutes to prevent settling in a mass at the bottom, 
then place in outer kettle for three or four hours. Only a small 
quantity must be stirred in at a time, sifting slowly through the 
fingers, as if it thickens too quickly the meal cannot thorough- 
ly cook and the mush will have a raw taste and also be 
lumpy ; this is especially true of corn meal. Mushes should be 
stirred as little as possible after all the meal is added, as stirring 
breaks up the particles and frees the starchy matter rendering the 
mush a pasty-wax and destroying the light, spongy, delicate appear- 
ance it should present ; and for this reason cooking in a custard ket- 
tle is better for the finer meals except corn meal ; that can be thus 



590 MUSH. 

cooked, only it is generally made in too large a quantity, and so 
making in an ordinary kettle and baking as given in recipe is recom- 
mended. Covering and placing on back of range on top of bricks 
will enable any mush to cook slowly without fear of burning. Some 
make in a kettle and then put in a pan and place in steamer. Dif- 
ferent sizes of hard-wood paddles should be kept with which to stir 
mushes, and great care must be taken that the latter are not lumpy. 
For the coarser grains as oatmeal, cracked wheat, hominy, etc., some 
process of steaming is best as they are better not to be stirred ; the 
patent steamer, custard kettle or a tin pail, or even a strong muslin 
sack placed in a kettle of boiling water, may be utilized. Just before 
serving any mush, some stir in a piece of butter, or a spoonful or 
two of cream and a pinch of sugar. The coarser grains may be soaked 
overnight in cold water, keeping covered, then steaming in same wa- 
ter ; but the flavor is somewhat impaired by so doing. If not soaked, 
they can be mixed with either hot or cold water but will cook quick- 
er if with cold. We give below a table, showing proportions and 
time of cooking in patent steamer. A custard kettle or tin pail 
would require half again as long. In steaming always keep the 
water boiling rapidly and serve the moment steamer is removed 
from fire, else water will collect. As tastes vary in the thickness of 
mush liked, one can add to, or take from the quantity of v/ater given, 
only remembering that it should not be too thick, nor so thin as to 
spread much when served. If fruit is to be added it is always bet- 
ter to cook it separately in a very little water and stir in just before 
serving. Fruit juice or sauce, or cream and sugar, or butter and 
syrup may be served with mushes, making a most palatable break- 
fast dish either as a first or last course. All the mushes and steamed 
grains can be fried when cold either by single-breading and frying 
like Fritters, or simply roll in flour or corn meal, letting the pieces 
lie in it awhile to become well coa.ted, or neither bread nor flour the 
slices. The frying by immersion is much the nicer way but some 
fry in just enough butter, or any fat liked, to prevent burning. 
Either makes a delicious breakfast dish. A quart of cold mush 
makes about a dozen slices or rings, but the rings are much hand- 
somer when served, and are made by putting the hot mush in round 
cans, as described in Corn Meal Mush. By adding a batter of milk, 
eggs, a little flour and pinch of salt, to any cold mush or steamed 
grains delicious Griddle Cakes will result, or using a stifler batter, 



MUSH. 591 

Rolls, Oeins, etc., can be made. For best meals to buy see Market- 
ing, and for their care, The Store Room. 

GRAIN. WATER. TIME. 

Pearl or crushed barley 1 cup 2 cups Z% hours. 

Coarse homing 1 " .4 " 4 " 

Fine " " 1" :5^o " 4 " 

Samp 1" 4I0 " 2}4 " 

Cracked wheat or Wheaten Grits 1 " 'il^ " 4 " 

Oatmeal 1" -4 " 3 



Cerealme Mush. — This is made from a preparation of corn 
known as cerealine or shredded maize, and a number of other nice 
dishes are also made from it, as griddle cakes, rolls, muffins, etc., 
using it in place of flour or meal. For the mush or porridge, take 
one quart milk or half milk and water, salt to taste, and when boil- 
ing thicken with one pint cerealine, cooking three or four minutes. 
Serve hot, or better cold ; dot the top of dish with bits of currant 
jelly or any kind liked, and eat with cream and sugar. For Fried 
Cerealine y\s,Q equal quantities cerealine and water, two tablespoons 
butter and teaspoon salt. When cold, slice, dip in salted beaten egg, 
then in dry ceraline, and fry as directed in preface. 

Corn Meal Mush. — For the best manner of preparing meal see 
page 19. Some prefer the yellow variety, others the white ; put four 
quarts fresh water in a kettle to boil, salt to suit the taste ; when it 
begins to boil stir in one and one-half quarts meal in the manner 
as directed in preface, sifting it in a little faster at the last, until as 
thick as can be conveniently stirred with one hand, let cook five 
minutes stirring constantly ; set in the oven in a kettle or take out 
into a pan, bake an hour or two, and it will be thoroughly cooked. 
It takes corn meal so long to cook that it is very difficult to boil it 
until done without burning ; hence Baked Musk is much easier 
made. For stirring use a hard-wood paddle two feet long, with a 
blade two inches wide and seven inches long. The thorough cook- 
ing and baking in oven afterwards takes away all the raw taste that 
mush is apt to have, and adds much to its sweetness and delicious 
flavor. Some brush the inside of kettle over with lard or drippings 
before adding water, thinking it lessens the tendency to burn, and 
the mush does not adhere so to the kettle, causing a waste. After 
mush is made, instead of baking, the kettle can be covered and set on 
back of range as directed. For Philadelphia Mush put two quarts 
water in kettle, when boiling ; stir in slowly a little at a time of the 
following mixture : one quart each corn meal and cold milk or water, 
and level tablespoon salt, beaten to a smooth paste. Let cook 
twenty-five minutes, stirring often ; or is better placed on the bricks 
or in oven, when it will not need to be stirred, and should then cook 



592 MUSH. 

an hour or more. Serve with cream or milk, and buttermilk is 
liked by some. A little flour is sometimes added to mush. For 
Fried Mush take from any of the above preparations when ready 
to serve ; place in a crock, pan or a round can (baking powder can 
is nice) first rinsed with cold water or slightly greased; and some 
after smoothing the top brush over lightly with a little melted lard 
or butter to prevent a crust from forming. When cold, cut in 
rings (slices from the round roll from can) or in slices from pan 
and fry as directed ; if wished very crisp, slice thin, and fry in little 
fat in the frying-pan. In making corn meal mush as well as all 
mushes that are stirred, the one important rule is to have water 
hoiling^ for this reason a good fire is necessary, and keep it thug 
while sifting in meal ; as unless the meal is cooked as it is stirred 
in, no amount of after cooking will take away the raw taste. 

Gluten Mush.-^-Vui inner kettle of custard kettle on stove with 
three pints water, and when boiling sift in, as directed in preface, 
one pint gluten. When ready, place in outer kettle and cook four 
or five hours. This is one of the most delicate of mushes, and is 
made of what is known as dark gluten ; the light gluten being used 
more especially for puddings. 

Farina Mush. — Stir into three pints boiling water half pint fa- 
rina. Cook as directed in any of the recipes for Graham Mush, ad- 
ding the spoonful or two of cream as directed in preface. 

Graham Mush. — Use what is known as No. 2 Graham, being 
ground a little coarser than No. 1. which is used for bread. Make 
like Gluten, except take a heaping pint to three pints water, and it 
need not cook more than an hour in custard kettle, but longer boil- 
ing greatly improves it. Or make in an ordinary kettle ; when done 
place on back of stove, or take out in pan and place in steamer for 
three or four hours and serve. Some make in saucepan and cook 
from fifteen to twenty minutes after meal is added ; set off fire a few 
minutes, as it will then be less likely to adhere to pan, and serve. A 
few dates or raisins may be stirred in ten minutes before it is done : 
or if steamed as above, either in custard kettle or patent steamer, * 
add them when the mush is ready to be placed in outer kettle or 
steamer. Serve hot, or for Molded Graham Mush pour in cups and 
serve cold. May be fried as directed. 

Granula Mush. — This is a preparation of wheat which makes 
a very wholesome and palatable mush, and as it is already twice 
cooked does not take long to prepare. Put one quart water in 
saucepan, salt to taste, when boiling sift in one scant pint granula 
as directed ; cook five minutes and serve. Milk or half milk and 
water may be used. Too much cannot be said in praise of this. 

Rye Mush. — Make in saucepan or ordinary kettle as Granula, 
except take one pint to a quart water, sifting in as directed. Cook 



MUSH. 593 

ten minutes, stirring constantly, and serve. Use the meal, not the 
flour ; the latter is used for bread, although some prefer the meal 
both for mush and bread. 

Hominy.— There are several kinds, the Hulled Hominy, which 
we give in vegetables and the Coarse Hominy^ which is cooked as 
Cracked Wheat except taking a pint to three pints water. The Fine 
Hominy or Grits is cut in smaller pieces and cooked as above, some 
using less water. The addition of the tablespoon or two of cream, 
as directed in preface, is especially nice for hominy and barley. 
Samp, which is the third variety and is cut very much finer than 
the grits, is cooked in same way, taking a pint to two quarts water, 
and will steam in about three hours ; or either kind may be simply 
cooked an hour in an ordinary kettle, and is nice either warm or 
cold with cream and sugar, or mav be served as a vegetable with any 
meat. A much-prized dish is Fried Hominy ; slice when cold and 
fry in frying pan or on a greased griddle. Frying like Fritters is 
not so nice for the coarse grains, as they crumble so easily. 

Oatmeal. — To be wholesome this must be well cooked, and not the 
pasty, half-cooked mass sometimes served. There are a few persons 
with very delicate digestive powers who should only eat the Pearled 
Oatmeal (the outer liusks of the grain being irritating). This and 
the Rolled Oatmeal are better for mush, while the finer, almost a 
flour is better for cakes, rolls, etc. When made in ordinary kettle 
have three pints boiling water, and stir in slowly cup of oatmeal 
(some wet it before adding), season with salt, and boil an hour ; if 
too stiff add more hot water, or if too thin cook longer. But it is 
better cooked in a custard kettle, when cook as Gluten Mush, using 
one pint to two quarts water, sifting slowly into the salted, boiling 
water as directed in preface, and placing in the outer kettle for 
three or four hours. For JSteio York Mush, mix half pint oatmeal 
in quart l)oiling milk in custard kettle, add quart boiling water and 
cook an hour and a half, season with salt and serve. Or With 
Ofiions., cook till tender one sliced onion in one quart milk, add 
half pint oatmeal mixed smooth in half pint milk ; cook an hour, 
season and serve with meat. For Jellied Oatmeal boil in custard 
kettle three heaping tablespoons meal in quart milk two or three 
hours. A few raisins, stoned dates or fresh fruit may be added ; 
cool in cups and serve with fruit juice or cream and sugar. For 
Steamed Oatmeal, add half pint to one quart cold water and tea- 
spoon salt, place in pan and steam in patent steamer or in steamer 
over a kettle of water or in a custard kettle from three to five hours. 
This is the easiest and best way of cooking oatmeal. Fried Oat- 
meal is fried as Hominy. Molded Oatmeal, cook in any of the 
wavs as gi'/en above, mold and serve when cold with any fruit juice. 
It is well to can fruit juice just for the purpose of serving with. 



594 MUSH. 

innshoR, as it is considered nicer as well as more wliolesome, for 
with the juice less sugar is used than with cream. 

Cracked Wlteat. — Take one quart cold salted water to two-thirds 
pint best cracked wheat ; steam four or five hours in custard kettle, or 
less time in patient steamer. Or, soak overnight and boil two hours. 
Or, put in a pan or small tin pail, sot in steamer and steam four 
hours : or pail may 1)0 placed m kettle of boiling water. Or miike 
a strong sack of thick iru'slin or drilling, moisten wh(!at with cold 
water, add a little smU, place in sa(;k, leaving hnlf the space for the 
swelling of the wheat. Fit a round s]u>et of tin perforated with 
hol(;s half an inch in diameter, to the inside of ordinary kc^ttle, so 
that it will r(\st two or thre^e inches from the bottom; lay sack on 
the tin, put in water enough to reach tin, and boil from three to four 
hours, supplying water as it (iva))orates. Servo with butter and sy- 
rup, or cHiam and sugar. To make I^FZ/A /^'rw//, stir in a few min- 
utes before serving, raisins, stoned dates, thinly-sliced apples or fresh 
b(!rries. When cold, prepare the wheat in any of the ways given in 
preface, or it is delicu)us sliced and served with cream and sugar, 
and some mold it esjiecially for so serving, sending to tabic; with it 
a sauce-boat of stew(vl blackberries, ras[)])erries or any small fruit. 
Wiien steannng any of tlu; grains, as wheat, oatmeabetc, in custard 
kettle, mix grain with the salt and cold water, without cooking, and 
place in iimer kottle, putting the latter at once in the outer kettle of 
noiling water and cook as directed. For W/ieaten Grits which is 
Pearled Wheat cut in two or more pieces, and cooked as cracked 
wheat, this way of serving is delicious, as it cooks almost to a jelly. 
Cook Pearled W/ieai in any of above ways. Some advise washing 
cracked wheat like riee thinking that separating it from the fine 
dust wonid k(;ep it from burning. This would only be necessary 
when ma,(l(; in an ordinary kettle, and that is nc^ver advisable. Any 
of above ])reparations are nice; warnuxl over with a little milk, salt 
and piece of butt(!r either in saucepan or on a buttered dish in oven. 
For either Pearled, or Crushed. Barley take one pint to three pints 
wab^r and steam as above. Or cook in ordinary ketth^ adding a 
few dried currants, pinch sugar, piece of hutter and a little grated 
lemon peel. When tender put in cups and cat cold with cream and 
sugar. None of the coarser grains can bo injured by too much 
cooking. Any of above preparations may be placed in cups or in 
a 1-wge mold and served when cold \\k{'0\iiTao:\\^iox Molded Oi'ains 
are now a fasliiouablc as well as a delicious dish. 



MUSHROOMS. 595 



MUSHROOMS. 



Although considerable prejudice exists against mushrooms be- 
cause of the difficulty hitherto experienced by some in distinguish- 
ing between the edible and poisonous kinds, it is considered by 
many one of the greatest delicacies of our tables, and its richness 
in nitrogenous elements renders it one of the most nutritious of 
vegetables. In Europe at least fifty varieties are grown and used 
as food. For directions for selecting mushrooms and distinguish- 
ing between the edible and poisonous varieties see Marketing. 
Those, however, who are not skilled in detecting the character of 
mushrooms should apply still further tests. Sprinkle salt in the 
spongy part or gill of the mushrooms, and if they turn yellow they 
are poisonous, but if the salt turns them black they are good ; allow 
a little time for the salt to act before deciding as to the color pro- 
duced. Another sim.ple and efficient test is to cook a peeled white 
onion with the mushrooms ; if it turns black they are poisonous 
and should be thrown away. If a silver spoon used in stirring 
them turns black they should also be rejected. Another simple 
test, claimed to be sure, is to rub a gold ring over the skin of the 
mushroom until bruised ; should the bruise turn yellow or orange 
color the mushroom is poisonous, but otherwise can be safely 
cooked. Mushrooms should be carefully looked over before cook- 
ing and either wdped all over with a flannel cloth, which some first 
dust with salt, or shaken about in cold water, to free them from all 
dirt and grit. They are cooked in a variety of ways, and are always 
a favorite accompaniment with broiled steaks. They are also much 
used in warming over cold meats, recipes for which we have given 



596 MUSHROOMS. 



in that department. But they are not a necessity to any dish, and 
any recipes in Meats and Cold Meats can be prepared without them. 



Baked Mushrooms. — The mushroom flaps are better for baking 
than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off* a portion of 
stalk, peel top, and wipe mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel 
and a little fine salt and put in baking dish tops down, with small 
piece butter in each ; sprinkle over a little pepper, and bake about 
twenty minutes, or longer should mushrooms be very large, basting 
several times with butter and water. Have ready a very hot dish, 
pile the mushrooms high in the center, squeeze a few drops lemon 
juice over, pour the gravy round, and send to table quickly on hot 
plates. Or place the mushrooms on oval croutons, in baking pan ; 
season with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice, and chopped par- 
sley if liked, and cook in a hot oven five or six minutes, basting often 
with rich hot gravy in which a lump of butter has been melted. If 
a lump of butter is placed on each they will not need basting. Ar- 
range croutons on dish, and pour the gravy over. Or leave stalks 
on large open mushrooms, paring them to a point; wash well and 
turn on sieve or cloth to drain. Put into stewpan two tablespoons 
butter, some chopped parsley, and shallots, and fry for a minute ; 
when melted place mushroom stalks upwards on a frying-pan, then 
pour the butter and parsley over, peppe: and salt them well, and put 
in oven ; when done add little good stock^ive them a boil, and 
dish them, pouring gravy over. 

Broiled Mushrooms. — Cleanse as directed in preface, cut off a 
portion of stalk, and peel tops ; broil them over a clear fire on but- 
tered gridiorn or broiler turning once, and arrange, tops down on 
very hot dish. Put a small piece butter on each mushroom, season 
with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops lemon 
juice. Place dish before fire, and when butter is melted, serve very 
hot and quickly. Some prefer to place the tops down when broil- 
ing, with a small piece butter and pepper and salt on each, and broil 
without turning, serving same side up as soon as butter is thorough- 
ly melted, being careful not to spill from them the delicious iuice 
with which they will be filled. Moderate-sized flaps are better for 
broiling than the buttons ; the latter are better in stews. Another 
method is after skinning to lightly score the under side. Place in 
an earthen dish, baste with melted butter, season with pepper and 
salt and let remain two hours ; then broil on both sides, and serve 
with a sauce of half pint melted butter, with teaspoon each minced 
parsley and young onions and seasoning of pepper and salt ; iust 
before serving add juice of a lemon. For Broiled Mushrooms in 
Cases., peel the mushrooms and cut into pieces. Put them in cases 
of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, parsley, green onions, and 



MUSHROOMS, 597 



shallots chopped up ; salt and pepper. Broil over a gentle fire, and 
serve in the cases. 

■Curried Mushrooms. — Peel and remove stems from full-grown 
mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and add a very little butter ; stew 
gently in a little good gravy or stock ; add four tablespoons cream, 
and one teaspoon curry-powder, previously well mixed with two 
teaspoons white flour ; mix carefully, and serve on a hot dish, with 
hot toast and hot plates. The large horse mushroom, when half or 
three parts grown, curried in this fashion, will be found delicious. 

Fried Mushrooms. — Cut off" most of the stem, peel the tops oi 
the mushrooms and put in frying pan with enough hot butter to 
cover bottom of pan. The mushrooms shrink very much, but give 
out a gravy of the richest description, which should not be allowed 
to dry up in pan. When done — in three or four minutes — season 
with pepper and salt, and lemon juice if liked and if to be served 
Avith beeisteak place the mushrooms on top of steak and pour the 
butter and gravy over. They are also very nice served on toast with 
a gravy poured over made by stewing tablespoon flour with butter 
in frying pan, adding pint boiling water and seasoning of pepper 
and salt. Some prefer to fry them in sweet oil instead of butter. 
If fried too long they will be tough. For Fried Mushrooms with 
Bacon, fry the bacon as usual, and when nearly done add mush- 
rooms and fry slowly until done. They will alDSorb all the fat oi 
the bacon, and served with it, well seasoned with pepper and salt, 
form a most appetizing breakfast dish. 

Pickled Mushrooms.— Choose nice young button mushrooms 
for pickling, as nearly of a size as possible, rub off" the skin with a 
piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stems ; procure small ones 
if possible, but if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the 
black ones, as they are too old. Put them in a stew pan, sprinkle 
salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in proportion of two 
blades mace and tablespoon ground pepper to each quart mush- 
rooms ; shake them well over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and 
keep them there until it is all dried up again ; then add as much 
vinegar as will cover them ; just let it simmer for one minute, and 
store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie down with oil- 
cloth or buttered paper and cotton (see Jellies), and keep in a dry 
place : they will remain good for a length of time, and are generally 
considered, delicious. Some do not like pepper in the pickle, and 
flavor with cloves, allspice and the mace. A little ginger is also 
liked by some, but do not use so much seasoning as to destroy the 
flavor of the mushrooms. Another way is to first boil the vinegar, 
adding the seasonings, then put in the mushrooms and let stand 
ten minutes over the fire but do not boil ; then cool before pouring 
into jars. Some prefer to let the mushrooms lie in salt and water 



598 MUSHROOMS. 



two days before pickling, then boil the seasonings and vinegar to- 
gether, and when cold turn over the mushrooms in jars. They will 
keep^ for years. Best cider vinegar should be used for pickling if 
obtainable. Store in a dry place. 

Potted Mushrooms. — The small open mushrooms are best for 

Sotting. Trim and rub them, and to every two quarts add half a 
rachm powdered mace, two drachms white pepper,and six or eight 
powdered cloves; set over the fire, shake, and let the liquor dry into 
the mushrooms. Then add two tablespoons butter, and stew them 
till fit for eating ; pour the butter off, and let stand till cold. Pack 
close into pot, making the surface as even as possible, cover with 
softened butter, lay a bit of white paper over, and pour clarified 
suet upon it to exclude the air. Or put a quart mushrooms into a 
stewpan, tablespoon butter, two teaspoons salt, and half teaspoon 
cayenne and mace mixed, and stew ten or fifteen minutes, or till 
mushrooms are tender; take out carefully, drain perfectly on a 
sloping dish, and v/hen cold press them into small pots, and pour 
clarified butter over them, in which state they will keep for a week 
or two. If to be kept longer cover as above. 

Stewed 2fushrooms. — Button mushrooms are best for stewing, 
and if the full taste of the mushroom is desired, prepare as for bak- 
ing, put them in pan over the fire with a very little water, salt to 
taste and cook very slowly, tliat they may not burn, from fifteen to 
.twenty minutes, keeping well covered; vdien nearly done, add a 
tablespoon butter or cream, with slight thickening of flour. Some 
put them on to cook without water and stew only in their own juice, 
adding butter and fiour or cream as above; or stew them only in 
butter, seasoning with pepper and salt. Serve on toast or steak. Or 
stew in water to cover, adding when tender an egg beaten with three 
or four tablespoons cream; serve just before tliis reaches boiling 
point. Some let mushrooms lie an hour or two in salt and water 
before stewing. A delicious dish is made by putting a pint button 
mushrooms in pan with three tablespoons butter, a little lemon juice 
and seasoning of white pepper and salt, adding v;hen nearly done a 
teaspoon flour, quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg and cream or milk 
to make gravy of desired consistency, cooking five minutes longer 
if mushrooms are not perfectly tender. Or stew them twenty or 
thirty minutes in a pint of any nice brown gravy, seasoned to taste. 
They are also excellent stewed in beef drippings and gravy, using 
two or three tablespoons drippings and one of beef gravj' for a doz- 
en medium-sized mushrooms. Or stew them in butter instead of 
drippings, seasoning with salt, pepper and mace. Or cut half a 
pound round steak -fine and fry in a little butter to extract the juice, 
then take out steak and while the gravy is hot add the mushrooms ; 
toss them about for a few moments, then pour on buttered toast and 
season with salt and cayenne. To stew Mushrooms a la Creme, 



MUSHROOMS. 



699 



melt twc taDlespoons butter in trying-pan and put in a halt pint 
button mushrooms, bunch of parsley, teaspoon salt, half teaspoon 
each white pepper and sugar, and shake over the fire ten minutes ; 
then add gradually yolks of two eggs beaten with two tablespoons 
cream, and serve when it reaches boiling point. Some stew mush- 
rooms without peeling, first letting them lie in salt and water an 
hour or two. They require much longer cooking when not peeled, 
— from aa hour and a half to two hours. 

Mushroom Catsiip. — Mushroom catsup is best when made of 
large mushroom flaps, fully ripe, fresh, and perfectly dry — that is. 
gathered during dry weather. If this point is not attended to the 
catsup will not keep. Do not wash nor skin the mushrooms, but 
carefully remove any decayed, dirty, or worm-eaten portions ; cut 
off about half an inch from the end of the stems, then break the 
rest into small pieces, put them into an earthen jar, and allow three- 
fourths of a pound salt for two gallons mushrooms, placing in al- 
ternate layers,- scattering the larger portions on top. Let remain all 
night, next day stir gently with a wooden spoon, and repeat this 
three times a day for two days. At the end of that time closely 
cover the jar and set in cool oven an hour or in saucepan boiling 
v/ater and let boil three hours ; then strain the liquid v.'hich flows 
from the mushrooms through a coarse cloth, and boil twelve min- 
utes. Do not squeeze the mushrooms. To every quart of the liquid 
put a quarter of an ounce each ginger and black pepper, and a pinch 
of mace ; some prefer cayenne pepper and add also half ounce all- 
spice. Boil again till the quantity is reduced one-half. Pour out 
and let stand until cool, then put it into perfectly dry bottles, being 
careful to leave the sediment, which will have settled to the bottom, 
undisturbed. Cork and seal and keep in cool, dry place. When a 
very clear bright catsup is wanted, the liquor must be strained 
through a very fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, after it has been very 
gently poured off; if the operation is not successful, it must be re- 
peated until quite clear. The catsup should be examined occasion- 
ally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a few pepper-corns. 
Mushroom catsup is one of the most useful sauces to the experienced 
cook, and no trouble should be spared in its preparation. Douhle 
Catsup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity. This 
goes farther than ordinary catsup, as so little is required. The sed- 
iment may also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to 
answer for flavoring thick soups or gravies. 

MusJirooni Omelet. — Put a tablespoon butter in frying-pan, 
when hot add half tablespoon flour and stir until .smooth and 
brown. Gradually add two-thirds cup stock, and after boiling up 
once add four teaspoons chopped mushrooms ; season with salt and 



600 MUSHROOMS. 




Omele* Pan. 



pepper, and simmer five minutes. Beat four eggs till rather light, 
and add half a teaspoon salt and one table- 
spoon water. Put a tablespoon butter in a 
warm omelet-pan, and when very hot put in 
beaten eggs, and shake vigorously until they 
begin to thicken. Spread mushrooms and 
about half the sauce upon the mixture, fold 
the omelet and turn out on a hot dish ; pour remainder of sauce 
around it, and serve immediately. Not more than a minute and a 
half should be consumed in work from the time of pouring the 
eggs into the pan until the omelet is finished. 

Mushroom Powder. — Look over carefully a peck large and very 
fresh mushrooms. Cleanse from yand or grit with a piece of flannel, 
then peel and put in sun or cool oven to dry ; they must dry slowly 
to crumbling, which will take a long time. The peck will diminish 
to a half pint or less of powder, a pinch of which flavors sauces, 
and gravies deliciously, and is sifted and sprinkled over chops 
and steaks. Some pound in mortar to fine powder, others use it 
without, but in either case put it immediately into small and per- 
fectly dry bottles ; cork and seal them without delay, for if the 
powder is long exposed to the air it will not keep, This powder is 
a most excellent addition to many dishes. Another very different 
way of preparing is to put half a peck large mushrooms into stew- 
pan over the fire without water, with two onions, teaspoon each 
powdered cloves, mace and white pepper, simmer and shake them 
till all the liquor is dried up, but be careful they do not burn ; lay 
them on tins or sieves in a slow oven till they are thoroughly dry 
and beat to powder ; then put in small bottles corked and sealed 
closely, and keep in a dry place. A teaspoon will give a very fine 
flavor to a pint of any soup, gravy or sauce. ^ It is to be added just 
before serving, and one boil given to it after it is put in.^ 

Mushroom Pudding.— Clean a quart fresh mushrooms, cut in 
small pieces, and mix with a half pound minced ham or bacon, 
season with a teaspoon salt and half teaspoon pepper, and spread 
on a Polly-Poly Crust, made by mixing a pint flour with a half pint 
shortening, teaspoon salt and about a pint water. Roll up the 
crust, tie tightly in floured cloth, and boil about two hours in boil- 
ing stock or salted water. Serve hot with bread or vegetables. 

Mushroom Sauce. — Rub a pint button mushrooms with a piece 
of flannel and salt to take off the skin ; cut off the stalks and put 
them in a stewpan with tAvo tablespoons butter, o'he of flour, pint 
of cream, a little grated nutmeg, and a blade mace, pounded, pre- 
viously mixing together the butter and flour ; boil the whole about 
ten minutes, stirring all the time. For White Mushroom Sauce 



MUSHROOMS. 601 




Puree Sieve. 



select three-fourths pint button _ mushrooms and turn them white 
by putting into lemon juice and water, having 
previously cut off the stalks and wiped them 
perfectly free from grit. Chop them and put 
in stewpan with a tablespoon butter, When 
the mushrooms are softened, add half pint 
bechamel sauce, and simmer about five min- 
utes. They should not boil longer than nec- 
essary, or they will lose their color and flavor. 
Rub the whole through a puree sieve. Heat in a lain marie and 
serve very hot. Very nice with boiled fowls, cutlets, etc. For a 
nice Brown Mushroom Sauce to serve with roast meat, put a half 
pint good beef gravy in saucepan, thicken it and stir over fire till it 
bods. Prepare a half pint mushrooms by cutting off stalks and 
wiping free from grit and dirt ; the large flap mushrooms cut into 
small pieces will answer when the buttons are not obtainable ; put 
them into the gravy and simmer very gently al^out ten minutes ; 
then add one tablespoon mushroom catsup and serve. Or put 
tablespoon each butter and flour in saucepan and stir over fire till 
hght brown, then slowly stir in half the liquor from a can of mush- 
roonis, about one cup, and also cup sojip stock, broth or water, 
making consistency of cream ; season palatably with salt and pep- 
per and a very little nutmeg ; put in half the 'mushrooms in even 
sized pieces, cutting if necessary, let sauce boil once, set off" fire and 
add yolks of two eggs and two tablespoons flavored vinegar. For 
another excellent sauce often served with beefsteaks, drain a can of 
mushrooms from their liquor and fry in small frying-pan with a 
little butter ; add pepper and salt, and when a light brown draw 
them to one side of pan, put in heaping teaspoon flour and rub it 
smooth in the hot butter, still keeping pan over fire ; when the flour 
has become slightly browned pour in the mushroom Hquor grad- 
ually and a few tablespoons water. Shake in the mushrooms, let 
all boil up, squeeze in juice of quarter of a lemon, and pour over 
beefsteak when ready to serve. For Mushrooms with Drawn But- 
ter, stir into a half pint melted butter three-fourths pint button 
mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned and free from grit, and 
stalks cut off". Let simmer gently for about ten minutes or until 
quite tender, add cayenne and salt to taste, a tablespoon mushroom 
catsup, let just boil and serve. 

Mushroom Scallops. — Cut mushrooms, if t^ey are too large ; 
throwthem for a few minutes into boiling water, then into cold water 
to whiten them ; wipe well, and fry them in a saucepan, Avith a little 
butter. When colored, and ahnost done, sprinkle in e^MMSI^^ 
a little flour and a little chopped parsley; when the I^^U^W 
flour is cooked (which will require but a few moments), ^^'Ij^pSr 
pour in cup stock and simmer about fifteen minutes. *'=''"°p s''^" 
Just before serving, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, and a few drops 



602 MUSHROOMS. 



lemon juice. The sauce should be rather thick. Fill scallop shells 
with the mixture ; s})rinkle a few sifted cracker-crumbs on top, brown 
slightly with salamander or red hot shovel, or put them into a very 
hot oven a few moments just before serving. 

Mushroom Stems. — Peel and trim the stems and place in stew- 
pan with juice of half a lemon, white pepper and salt to taste, 2ivery 
little scraped garlic and tablespoon butter ; cover closely and stew 
five minutes ; add bechamel or allemande sauce to just cover, boil 
up once and serve. Or thinly slice the stems, place in saucepan 
with milk to cover and stew until tender ; add butter, salt and pep- 
per to taste, and thicken with flour. Serve on toast. A delicious 
supper dish, or may be servea as sauce for boiled fowl. 

Mushroom' Toast. — Peel mushrooms take out stems and fry them 
in little butter over a quick fire. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over 
them and fry again for some minutes. Add salt, pepper, spices, and 
a spoonful of water, in which a clove of garlic, having been cut into 
pieces, has soaked for half an hour and stew until mushrooms are 
done when add a thickening of yolks of eggs. Serve on bread fried 
in butter. Or, put a pint mushrooms into a stewpan withtAvo table- 
spoons butter mixed wit4* a little flour ; add teaspoon salt, half tea- 
spoon each white pepper, grated lemon peel, and powdered mace ; 
stew till butter is absorbed, then add as much white 7'o'ux as will 
moisten the mushrooms ; fry a slice of bread, cut to fit the dish, in 
butter and as soon as mushrooms arc tender serve them on this toast. 
Another novel Avay of serving is to first cut a round of bread half an 
inch thick, toast it nicely, butter both sides, and place in a clean 
baking pan ; prepare mushrooms as for baking, and place on the 
toast, top down, lightly pepper and salt, and put small piece of but- 
ter on each ; cover them with a finger-bowl and cook close to the 
fire for ten or twelve minutes. Slip the toast into a hot dish, but do 
not remove glass cover until on table. All the aroma and flavor of 
the mushrooms are preserved by this method, and the use of the 
glass need not deter the careful housekeeper from trying it ; Vv'ith 
moderate care the glass cover will not crack, but in winter it should 
be rinsed in warm water before using. 

Mushrooms with Eggs. — Halve mushrooms ; stew ten minutes 
in a little butter seasoned with pepper and salt and a very little water ; 
drain and put th^ into pudding dish ; break in enough eggs to cover 
them over the top, and scatter pepper, salt and bits of butter over ; 
strew with bread-crumbs and bake until eggs are set. Serve in dish. 



PASTRY. 



603 



PASTRY. 



Bntter or lard for pastry should be sweet, fresh and solid. When 
freshly made butter cannot be had, wash well, kneading while under 
cold water, changing the water two or three times, and then wiping 
dry with a napkin. The board on which the butter is rolled should 
be hard and smooth and never used for any other purpose. A very 
nice paste for family use may be made by reducing the quantity of 
shortening to even so little as a half pound to a quart of flour, espec- 
ially when children or dyspeptics are to be considered. With the 
exception of Mince-pies and Pumpkin-pies, which are warmed over 
before serving, all pies should be eaten the day they are baked. In 
warm weather, when not ready to bake immediately after making 
up paste, keep it in ice chest till Avanted, several days if necessary, 
and, in any event, it is better to let it thus remain for one or two 
hours. Roll always with a ivell-floured rolling-pin, which should 
be made of hard wood, perfectly smooth and highly polished, about 
an inch and a half in diameter and eighteen inches long. Cut off 
only enough paste at a time for one crust, and always make a fresh 
cut for the upper crust, using the trimmings for the lower. For 
directions for lining pie-pans and covering see directions for Puff 
Pastes. A neat way of cutting and ornamenting crust for an open 
pie is here illustrated : Figure A represents a paste-j ag- 
ger, for cutting and ornamenting the edges, Bis a plain 
circle of crust cut with the j agger, to fit the pie-dish, 
C is part of a strip of paste, which is cut with the jag- 
ger to lay around the edge of pie, and two or three of these strips 
may be placed one upon another, passing the finger dipped in water 




604 PASTRY. 

over eack to make them adhere. To prevent juice of pies from 
soaking into under crust, beat an egg well, and with a bit of cloth 
dipped into the egg rub over the crust before filling the pies. It is 
a good plan to make Puff Paste for top crust, and for under crust 
use less shortening. Some wash upper crusts with milk just before 
putting pies in oven to brown them, but be careful not to wash the 
edge, as it spoils the appearance besides preventing the proper ris- 
ing. When using green currants, pie-plant, gooseberries or other 
fruits which require juice to be thickened, fill lower crust, sprinkle 
corn starch evenly over, and put on upper crust, or sprinkle lower 
crust and fruit as in Berry Pies. This prevents juice from running 
over, and when cold forms a nice jelly. Do not sprinkle fruit with 
Bugar until placed in the crust, as sugar sets the juice free. In all 
pies with top crust make air holes or crust will burst. These may 
be arranged in any fanciful shape, and are best made with the point 
of the bowl of an inverted teaspoon pressed through the crust 
while on the board, and gently drawn apart when taken up to put 
over the pie. Meringue^ for pies or puddings, is made in the pro- 
portion of one tablespoon powdered sugar to white of one egg, with 
flavoring added, beaten well together, spread over top and browned 
delicately in oven. Never fill crusts until just before putting in oven. 
Always use tin pie-pans, since, in earthen pans the under crust is not 
likely to be well baked, and some use a perforated pie-pan. Bake 
fruit pies in a moderate oven, having a better heat at bottom than top, 
or the lower crust will be clammy and raw. When done, crust will 
separate from the pan, so that pie may be easily removed. Remove 
at once from tins, or crust will become "soggy." Some bake bot- 
tom crust lightly in oven before filling, and others after filling set 
on top of stove a few minutes before putting in oven, to hasten 
the baking of bottom crust. When the latter is baked, without first 
filling, it must be pricked well when put in pan to prevent blistering. 
Short Paste is well adapted to lining the bottom of pie-pans, 
etc., as it is firmer than Puff Paste and holds together better. Hence, 
when making a great deal of pastry it is w^ell to make a little Short 
Paste for all lining or bottom worlr. and use the Puff Paste for all 
top work. In using the latter cut out all tops first ; use the trim- 
mings for bottoms. It is a good plan to make two or three extra 
crusts on baking day, pricking well, to be used for Cream, Custard, 
Dr Lemon-pies, as wanted. When preparing pie-pans grease slightly^ 



PASTRY. 



605 




using a little lard, oil or butter, or some think with proper care of 
the pans greasing will not be necessary. To avoid 
wasting flour brush the pastry board all off care- 
fully each time it is used into a small sieve, sift 
out the flour and use again. Always have the 
board well floured, and in the making of Graham 
set of Measure. ^^^^^ ^^^^ piefcr to uux rathcr soft and put plen- 
ty of graham on board and also on top of paste, then roll out to a 
little thicker than paste of white flour, and place in pan.. The set 
of measures are almost as much of a necessity in the making of 
pastry as in any other department of cookery, and by reference to 
the full table of weights and measures, any recipe can be readily made. 



Cream Paste— To a pint sifted flour, add an even teaspoon 
baking powder, and sweet cream enough to wet the flour, leaynig 
crust a little stiff. Enough for two pies. For a richer paste allow 
rather more than a gill of cream with from four to six tal)lespoons 
butter and saltspoon salt for each pound flour, o-mittmg the baking 
powder. Make a paste of the cream and flour, roll out and spread 
with butter, rolling again and spreading until all the butter is used. 
In making any paste have flour and wetting as cold as possible. 

Economical Paste.— Take a pound flour, half pound clarified 
drippings (some use three-fourths pound) half teaspoon salt and 
half pint ice water. Chop and mix as directed in Plain Paste, then 
rollout and fold three times when it will be ready for use. borne 
add a little baking powder to the flour. Half lard and halt drip- 
pings may be used. 

Qraham Paste.— W\jl lightly pint Graham flour, half pint sweet 
cream, half teaspoon salt ; roll, and bake Hke other pastry, remem- 
bering that lightness and quickness in handling is the one impor- 
tant step in making all pastes and where cream is used add it slowly 
^^^^^^^^-^^-^— ^ to the flour, stirring rapidly with an 

Artist s Spatula. mixcd, form together without knead- 

ing, using barely enough pressure to make the mixture adhere. Roll 
out, place in pan, fill and bake. What is known as No. 1, Graham 
will not need any sifting but the coarser varieties must be silted 
For Quaker Paste, take half pint each white flour, sifted, and ^o. 1 
Graham, mixing as above w^th one-third pint cream and pinch salt ; 
some add baking powder, a teaspoon and a half to above proportions, 
or half teaspoon soda and teaspoon cream tartar, sifting well with 
ths white flour. Or sour cream may be used with a teaspoon soda, 



605 PASTRY. 

or sour cream alone will make a most delicious, wholesome paste. 
Or for a Batter Paste take the above proportions of flour, Graham, 
baking powder, etc., with two-thirds pint cream or rich milk ; have 
the fruit in pie-pan without under crust, spread over the batter, bake 
in a quick oven and serve hot. Some add heaping teaspoon corn 
meal to first recipe ; if last two recipes are wished very delicate use 
corn-starch instead of white flour. 

Hi/gienic Paste. — Take a piece of light bread dough, after n 
has raised the second time, roll out, spread with rather thin coat 
fresh, sweet butter, fold once and roll again as thin as liked for crust. 
If for Custard or Pumpkin-pies the butter may be omitted, but for 
top crust the butter should be used. Some make crust by working 
Well into enough bread dough for one or two pies, a well-beaten egg 
and a little butter or drippings, and others use light, flaky biscuit 
dough. Or make a paste with buttermilk and flour, adding soda in 
proportion of level teaspoon to each pint buttermilk and a little salt. 
Use just enough flour to make a dough that will roll out, and bake 
in a rather slow oven. Even a dyspeptic can indulge in the luxury 
of a pie made in this way. 

Oatmeal Paste. — Use fine oatmeal instead of the Graham, as in 
third recipe, mixing as directed and rolling out quite thin. Or after 
greasing the pie-pans sift over a layer of oatmeal or oatmeal and 
corn meal mixed ; or for Corn Meal Paste sprinkle only with the 
latter. The last two pastes are only for pies baked with one crust, 
being used by some for Pumpkin or Squash-pies. 

Plain Paste. — One coffee-cup lard, three of sifted flour, and 
a little salt. In winter soften the lard a little (but not in summer), 
cut it well into flour with a knife, some chop together in chopping 
bowl, then mix with ice-cold >/ater quickly to a moderately stiff 
dough, handling as little as possible. This makes four common- 
sixed covered pies. Take a new slice of paste each time for top 
crust, and after rolling out spread teaspoon butter over half, fold 
and roll again, being careful that the butter does not press out; use 
the trimmings, etc., for under crust. Some give the paste a second 
fold in the opposite direction after spreading with butter before roll- 
ing, and also claim that a little mashed potato may be mixed in the 
dough before rolling, to make the crust shorter when butter is not 
used. Some prefer to use only one-fourth as-^uch lard or butter 
as flour, level teaspoon salt, and rub it into the flour with the hands 
until so thoroughly mixed as to look like meal. Add just enough 
water to make a dough that can be rolled out. If made with butter, 
this Florida Paste is one of the simplest and most delicious of 
pastry. For Nantucket Paste., take pound sifted flour, quarter 
pouncl each lard and butter, half pint ice water and little salt. Chop 
the lard fine in the flour, adding salt, mix with water, then roll out, ^ 



PASTRY. 607 

spread with butter, fold as above, roll out again, and so continue 
until all the butter is u.sed. Some sift a very Utile flour evenly oyer 
the paste before spreading with butter, and others brush it oyer with 
beaten white of an egg. The paste is nicer with all butter instead 
of half lard, and it may all be mixed with the flour, or half reserved 
to spread and roll as above. Some use a quarter pound more flour. 
If for sweet tarts, add two tablespoons powdered sugar before rolling. 

Potato Paste. — Take a quarter pound nice mashed potato, rub 
through colander and mix thoroughly with pint and a half flour, 
three tablespoons butter and a little salt; then mix all to a paste 
moderately stiff with cold water or milk, and roll. Bean Paste 
may be made same way. When used for pies, roll these pastes a 
little thicker than paste shortened with lard. Nice for boiled or 
steamed puddings. All, or half Graham flour may be used. 

PuiF Paste. — Only the best and freshest of butter, firm and 
solid, and of good flavor, and the finest quality of flour, thoroughly 
gifted, can be used successfully in making puff paste. The water 
used should be ice cold, and the quantity required depends upon 
the capacity of the flour to absorb it, which is quite variable ; too 
little makes the paste tough, and too much makes it thin, and pre- 
vents the flakiness so desirable. The most perfect cleanliness of the 
hands and everything used is of course necessary. Handle as little 
as possible throughout the whole process, and let every touch be 
quick and light. A stone or marble slab is best for pastry, and one is 
usually fitted smoothly into the shelf of every well-appointed pantry 
and a glass rolling pin will be found desirable. Always make the 
paste in a cool place, in warm weather near an open window if pos- 
sible. Good puff paste is that which rises highest, is lightest, and 
which contracts but little in rising. Puff paste, the flakes of which 
can })e pushed off whole, or which, in the rising, is considerably 
smaller on top than bottom, is not good. To make Oood Puif 
Paste., take three-fourths pound butter, of the best quality, free it 
from salt, by working it in water, form in a* square piece, and place 
it in flour in a cool place for half an hour to harden ; place one poinid 
sifted flour in a bowl, rub two tablespoons butter well into the flour 
and wet into dough with cold water, using about a scant half pint, 
making it as nearly as possible the same consistency as the butter, 
so that the two will roll out evenly together ; place the dough on the 
pastry slab, dust it under and over with flour, and roll it out in a 
piece say twelve inclies long and six wide ; flour the butter well, and 
roll that out in a sheet two-thirds the thickness of the dough, about 
eight inches long and five wide ; this will cover about two-thirds of 
dough, leaving one-third of dough, and about half an inch around 
the sides and top edge, without butter ; place the sheet of butter on 
dough, mix a half teaspoon cream tartar with tablespoon flour, and 
sprinkle it evenly over the butter ; now fold the dough not covered 



608 PASTRY. 

with butter, over on the butter, then fold the other part with the but- 
ter on it, OA^er on that, forming three layers of dough and two of but- 
ter. Press the rolling pin over the edges to keep them together and 
roll out to its original size, dust with flour, fold as before, roll out 
again, dust with flour, and fold again ; repeat twice more, giving it 
four rollings and foldings ; when rolled out for the last tim.e, cut it 
through in two even pieces, place one on the other, and the paste is 
ready to roll in any shape desired. In rolling, the first move with 
the pin will be to push it down on the dough three or four times, 
just hard enough to make an indentation without breaking the dough, 
and thus allowing the butter to come through. Next lay the pin 
levelly on, and give it a roll forward, commencing about two-thirds 
down ; then, without removing the hand from pin, bring it back 
right down to the bottom; repeat this, then reverse the piece, and 
give it a roll the wide way. Continue this until the paste is rolled 
to a sheet twice the length of its width as above, keeping it nice and 
square. Be very careful and roll level, never pressing heavily but 
exercising equal pressure on each end of the pin, which must be kept 
well dusted with flour. In warm weather it is necessary to place it 
in a cool place after every second rolling ; in very warm weather af- 
ter each rolling, and sometimes on ice. The number of rollings and 
foldings must depend somewhat upon the quality of the butter, but 
more upon the evenness of the rolling. To ascertain when it has 
been rolled enough, cut a j^iece out of the center, and if the layers 
of dough and butter can be easily distinguished it needs to be folded 
and rolled again ; if the layers are almost imperceptible, do not fold 
again, though it is better to give one fold too many than one too few. 
If making a quantity of paste, say three or four pounds, after the 
last rolling cover it with a cloth and cut from it as wanted. Some 
cooks prefer not to give the last fold to the whole piece, but roll out 
and fold as required, giving that designed for tarts or upper crusts 
two or three extra foldings and rollings to make it more flakey. The 
French roll only half a pound at a time, and a small quantity is 
much more easily handled. For a Rich Puif Paste^ take a pound 
of butter to each pound sifted flour, the butter should have first been 
folded in a floured napkin and gently pressed to remove all moisture ; 
if it seems milky or too salt the butter must be washed, and if it is 
properly salted no salt will be needed in the paste. When necessary 
to use salt allow a teaspoon for each pint water. Place the flour on 
board, make a well in center, squeeze in juice of half a lemon, and 
add yolk of one egg, beaten Avith a little ice water ; stir with one 
hand and drop in ice water with the other until the paste is as hard 
as the butter; roll out in a smooth square an inch thick, smooth 
sides with a rolling pin, roll the butter out and spread over half the 
paste, and lay the other half over like an old-fashioned turn-over ; 
leave it for fifteen minutes in a cold place, then roll out in a long 
strip, keeping the edges smooth, and double it in three parts, as fol- 



PASTRY, 609 



lows : Fold one-third over on the middle third, roll it down, then 
fold over the other outside third, roll out in a long strip and repeat 
the folding process— rolling across this time so that the butter may 
not run "in streaks" by being always rolled the same way; let it lie 
for fifteen minutes, some put on ice, and repeat this six times, allow- 
ing fifteen_ minutes between each rolling to cool, (otherwise the but- 
ter will "oil"), and the paste is ready for use. If a very flaky pastry 
is_ desired brush the paste over each time it is rolled before folding, 
with beaten white of egg. What is known as French Puff Paste 
is made with same proportion of ingredients as above, adding another 
yolk of egg when mixing the first dough; then roll it out square 
about half an inch thick ; have the butter as cool as possible, make 
it into a ball, and place this ball on the paste ; fold the paste over 
the butter all round, and secure it well. Flatten by rolling it lightly 
with the rolling pin until it is quite thin, but not thin enough to al- 
low the butter to break through, then fold, roll and finish as above. 
If the directions given in above recipe are carefully followed, 
the most satisfactory results will be obtained, but there are other 
methods, which are incorporated under the following general Sug- 
gestions for PuiF Paste. The secret of success in making puff 
paste is to secure the greatest possible number of even layers of 
butter and dough, alternately, as the result of folding and rolHng. 
This is best accomplished, as will readily be perceived, by increas- 
ing the quantity of butter ; the more one uses, the greater the num- 
ber of layers before the butter is exhausted by absorption into the 
dough. On the other hand, too much butter produces equally bad re- 
sults ; a quantity of butter equal to the flour is the most, and three- 
fourths pound of butter to a pound flour the least, that can be used in 
puff paste with good results. In making puff paste it is a mistake to 
suppose that lessening the quantity of butter is economical. For in- 
stance,Tart Shells cut one-fourth of an inch thick from paste made with 
half pound butter to a pound flour, will not be any thicker or higher 
when baked than those cut from paste half as thick made with three- 
fourths pound butter to a pound flour. Thus, by using one-fourth 
more butter double the bulk results, besides the satisfaction of hav- 
ing good light pastry. In washing or egging pastry be careful not 
to allow the egg or milk, or whatever is used, to run down over the 
edges, as when it is placed in the heat of the oven, it will bind the 
edges and prevent them from opening fully. In rolling use the roll- 
ing-pin as lightly as possible, and take care that the pressure is even. 
The layers will be even or uneven just in proportion as the pressure 
IS even or uneven. Be careful not to break the dough, or the butter 
will be forced through, and thus destroy the evenness of the layers. 
If the dough breaks, some flour it lightly, fold in three layers, cover 
with a damp cloth and let stand an hour or two. But if wanted to 
use immediately, cover the broken place with a piece of "plain 
dough," dust it well with flour, and continue rolling ; it is well to 



610 PASTRY. 

keep a piece of plain dough in reserve for this purpose. Before 
adding the butter some divide it into three equal parts, spreading 
one-third at a time over half the paste, turning the other half over 
it, then folding over from the other way ; roll and spread and fold 
again, and yet again, when all of the butter will have been used. 
Some "spread" the butter by rolling as in above recipes, others by 
putting it evenly over in small bits, and still others by cutting in 
slices and laying them closely and evenly over, always leaving a lit- 
tle outside margin. Each time before the paste is folded it should 
be turned half round, so as to roll in a different direction. To turn 
the paste, hold one end to the rolling pin, then, rolling the pin, the 
dough will fold loosely around it, sprinkle the board with flour, then 
unroll the dough in the side direction. This is better than to turn 
it with the hands. After the butter is all worked in, roll the paste 
out in a long smooth strip, fold or lap over into three parts or layers, 
roll out, and repeat. Before using, some place the paste on ice about 
fifteen minutes between two plates, reversing them once that it may 
be thoroughly chilled through, then use as expeditiously as possible. 
Others also set it on ice or in a cool place for a few minutes after 
each rolling. To toughen the dough, before adding the butter form 
it into a ball, flatten it on the floured slab and beat with the rolling 
pin five minutes, turning and doubling constantly. There will then 
be less danger of its breaking when the butter is rolled in. Some 
add the well-beaten white of an egg to the water used in mixing the 
dough, which helps to toughen it. Paste made the day before it is 
used is thought by some to be much better and easier to manage, 
and in winter it may be kept four or five days in a cold place, using 
from it as required, but it must not freeze. When ready to use, finish 
the paste by folding in three layers and rolling as above ; some fold 
and roll thus seven times but never press heavily upon it with the 
rolling pin. In using the paste remember that it must be touched 
by the lightest fingers, every cut must be made with a sharp knife, 
and done with one quick stroke so that the paste is not dragged at 
all. For tarts roll less than a quarter inch thick and for pies a trifle 
thicker. Do noi press the paste into the pan as this Avill destroy its 
lightness and ruin it. A little practice will enable one to cut off a 
piece of paste from the mass which when rolled will be very nearly 
the right size. Put this over pan, lifting by partly rolling on the 
rolling pin, and instead of pressing round the bottom to make it fit 
smoothly, gently lift the edges at the top giving a slight pushing 
motion towards the center with the palms of the hands on opposite 
sides ; it will easily adjust itself to the dish. Some then trim off 
superfluous portions, leaving a good margin over the edge, though 
others do not trim until the top crust is added, cutting the paste 
quickly with a sharp knife dipped in hot water or flour, while hold- 
ing the pan on the left hand. To have the middle of the crust 
thinner than the edge, which is preferred by some, double over 




PA8TRT. (JU 

the paste and roll the part that will be the middle with the end of 
rolling pm, having flour enough about the paste to prevent sticking 
then open and put in pan as directed. Always before putting on upper 
crust wet rim ot lower with finger dipped in water, or with a thick paste 
ot flour and water, or egg and flour and press the two crusts firmly 
together and indent evenly all round with the thumb, or use the 
pastry wheel shown m cut. This simple little instrument trims off 

the surplus paste that projects over 

the pan, and at the same time neatly 

ornaments the border. Do not put in 

oven until it is hot enough to raise the 

Pastry Wheel. pastc ; puff" pasto rcqulrcs a quick 

oven and no matter how carefully prepared, if not properly baked 

it will be utterly ruined, and for this reason it is best to test oven 

by first baking a little piece ot the paste. 

Medium PuiT Paste.— One pound flour, half pound butter 
quarter pound lard, not quite half pint ice water ; mix the flour 
and water to a smooth paste, then roll out three times, spreading the 
first time with butter, the second with lard, and the third with but- 
ter again, when it will be ready for use. 

Short Paste.— Put a pound sifted flour in a bowl with a half 
pound good butter. Break butter up very fine in flour, adding a lit- 
tle salt (according to saltness of butter), a half pint cold water with 
half teaspoon cream of tartar dissolved in it (to toughen the paste) • 
then mix it into a dough of medium stiff'ness, adding more water if 
required ; work lightly together and keep it covered with a damp 
cloth, or between two plates, in a cool place until wanted to use 
bfiort paste is very useful from the fact that it is easv to make, and 
can be kept m better shape, where shape of the article is an object. 

Suet Paste.— Roll a half pound perfectly sweet suet, with a very 
little membrane running through it, on a board for several minutes 
removing all skm and fibers that appear when rolling ; the suet will 
be a pure and sweet shortening, looking like butter; or it may be 
chopped very fine and the fibers removed ; during the process of chop- 
ping, dredge lightly with flour, which prevents the pieces from stick- 
ing together Beef suet is considered the best ; but veal suet, or the 
outside tat of a loin or neck of mutton, makes good pastes : as also 
the skimmings in which a joint of mutton has been boiled without 
vegetables Rub the suet into a pound flour, add teaspoon salt, and 
mix it with half pint ice water ; roll out and put on a little butter in 
flakes, rolling it m as usual. Some add a teaspoon baking powder 
when mixing. If wanted very nice, after chopping, pound the suet 
in a mortar with two tablespoons butter to a smooth paste. To use 
this, mix the flour and water into smooth paste, roll out and spread 
with small bits of the suet, fold, roll and spread again, and so on 



612 PASTRY. 

until all is used, giving the paste a few more foldings and rollings 
than if made with butter. Some shred the suet in very thin slices 
and place where it will soften, but not melt in the least, while pre- 
paring the paste, then spread and roll as above. A very nice, flaky 
paste is made from a preparation called French Butter. Remove 
the skin and blood spots from three-quarters pound beef suet and 
pound it soft in a mortar ; add quarter pound butter, and half tea- 
spoon salt, pound it well in, then add yolks of two eggs and mix all 
smoothly and use it as butter in Puff Paste, making a Rich Suet Paste. 
This latter, rolled half an inch thick, cut into cakes with a cutter, 
two inches in diameter, then washed with eggs and a few cuts given 
across the top with a sharp knife, and baked a nice rich brown in a 
moderately hot oven, makes delicious Boston Cakes for tea-table. 
It is not as rich as puff paste. 

Sweet Paste. — Mix with a knife half pound butter, cut in bits, 
with pound flour, four tablespoons sugar and pinch of salt ; add 
enough sweet milk, about a gill, to form a smooth paste, handling 
lightly. Will rise very light and should be baked a delicate brown. 
Adding two tablespoons more butter makes it nearly as nice as puff 
paste. Some add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring them 
m the milk, using about a gill of the latter, though if eggs are large 
not quite so much will be needed, but more if eggs are small. For 
another With Boiled Milk, to every pound flour allow four table- 
spoons sugar, three of butter and a half pint boiling milk. Crumble 
butter into flour as finely as possible, add sugar and work to a smooth 
paste with the boiling milk. Roll out thin and use. 

Pastry Frosting. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth and 
when pastry is nearly done brush over with this, using the pastry 
brush for the purpose and sprinkle with granulated sugar and a few 
drops water returning to oven a few minutes to set the frosting, tak- 
ing care that it does not brown or scorch. 

Pastry Glaze. — The simplest glaze is the thoroughly beaten 
yolk of an egg, but most cooks prefer to add to the yolk twice its 
bulk in water and teaspoon sugar, then beat up well, and just before 
pastry is done, brush it over evenly with this and return to oven to 
set the glaze, which gives it a rich yellow-brown color. 

Dried- Apple-pie. — Very good pies may be made of the evapo- 
rated apples, by stewing in a very little water ; sweeten and make 
like any other. The home dried apples are best when stewed as for 
sauce, page 343, and mashed through colander. When stewing, put 
in two or three small pieces of lemon or orange peel, or a few raisins 
are a nice addition ; flavor with a very little spice of any kind. 
Sweeten and season before putting in pie-pan ; a beaten egg may be 
stirred in. Bake with two crusts, rolled thin, and- warm slightly be- 
fore eating. Or With Cranberries^ wash two quarts dried apples 



PA8TRY.\ 613 

and place in a four-quart jar or bean pot ; wash half pint cranberries 
and put in with the apples, fill up with cold water and bake half an 
hour ; fill up again with cold water and bake till apples are tender ; 
rub all through colander, sweeten to taste with brown sugar, add cup 
seeded raisins, teaspoon ground cinnamon and bake between two 
crusts. When making dried-apple-pies if any bits of cold meat are 
at hand, chop them as for mince-meat adding about twice as much 
of the prepared apples as meat, a little vinegar or boiled cider, sea- 
soning and spices to taste and a few raisins. These Cottage^Fies 
are very quickly made and much resemble Mince-pies. Yox 2imi- 
overs, make a good biscuit dough, roll thin about size of pie-pan, 
put on it a tablespoon nice dried apple sauce, or any other kind, 
turn the crust over, cut with the edge of saucer to shape it nicely, 
and fry in hot fat or drippings, like doughnuts. Or make of Quaker 
Paste, about the size of saucer, fill as liked, fold and bake in oven. 

Grated- Apple-pie.— GxoXe two tart apples and add cup sugar, 
two eggs, teaspoon cinnamon ; beat well and stir in cup sweet milk ; 
bake quickly m one crust. The whites of eggs may be reserved for 
meringue. Or to enough grated apple for a pie add juice of half a 
lemon, yolks of two eggs, well beaten, half cup sugar, good-sized 
piece of butter, melted, and teaspoon rose-water. Bake and cover 
with a meringue. The apples may be chopped if preferred. Sweet- 
Apple-pie is made same, using half as much sugar ; or the eggs, 
lemon juice and rose-water may be omitted and nutmeg grated over 
the top. Some always add a little milk. 

Halved- Apple-pie. — Pare and cut in halves large tart apples, 
bellflowers are best, remove cores and place in rich crust, cut side up. 
Allow cup sugar and tablespoon butter to each pie, strewing sugar 
over, and also the butter cut in bits. Bake in one crust until apples 
are done and serve with cream. Rich and delicious. 

Lemon Apple-pie. — One cup chopped apples, grated rind and 
chopped pulp of one lemon, cup sugar and a well-beaten egg. Bake 
in two crusts, or one and cover with a meringue. 

Sliced- Apple-pie. — Line pie-pan with crust, sprinkle with su- 
gar, fill with tart apples sliced very thin, sprinkle sugar and very 
little cinnamon over, add few small bits of butter, with tablespoon 
water ; dredge in a little flour, cover with the top crust, and bake 
half to three-quarters of an hour ; allow four or five tablespoons 
sugar to one pie. Add juice of a lemon if liked. Or, line pans with 
crust, fill with sliced apples, put on top crust and bake ; take off top 
crust, put in sugar, bits of butter and seasoning, replace crust and 
serve warm. Delicious with sweetened cream. Or, With Whipped 
Cream, while the pie is baking whip a pint cream, and when done 
remove top crust, sweeten and flavor as above, put the whipped 
cream on top, replace crust and serve, or it may be served without 



814 PA8TRT. 

upper crust. If to be served cold let the pie cool before putting in 
whipped cream. Or With Almonds, for ten or twelve apples, sliced 
as above ; mix well enough sugar to sweeten, grated rind of one 
lemon, one gill cream or rich milk ; then add three beaten eggs, two 
or three tablespoons butter and the sliced apples. Line a pie-pan 
with a nice paste, fill with the mixture and strew over it blanched 
almonds, cut in long shreds, bake half an hour, being careful al- 
monds do not burn ; when done, sprinkle sifted sugar over the top 
and serve either hot or cold. Makes two large pies. Crab-apple- 
pie, if made of Transcendents, will fally equal those made of the 
larger varieties of apples. 

Apple- Custard-pie. — Peel sour apples, stew until soft, and rub 
through colander. Add nine eggs, cup each butter and sugar for 
three pies. Season with nutmeg and bake in under crust. Or With 
Milk, beat yolks of six eggs with cup sugar ; add three cups cold 
stewed and pulped apples with a quart milk, or pint each cream and 
milk, season with grated orange peel, or as liked, beat in whipped 
whites of eggs last and bake in one crust. Makes two or three pies. 
Or in either recipe reserve some of the whites of eggs for meringue. 
Baked in pudding dish, this makes a delicious Apple-Custard Pud- 
ding, and the dish may be lined with pastry, bread-crumbs, or slices 
of bread dipped in sweet milk or a custard ; or put the crumbs and 
apple mixture in dish in alternate layers. For an Apple-butter 
pie, beat well together four eggs, cup each apple-butter and sugar, 
and level tablespoon allspice ; add quart sweet milk and pinch of 
salt and bake in one crust ; makes three pies. 

Apple Meringue Pie, — Pare, slice, stew and sweeten ripe, tart 
and iuicy apples, mash and season with nutmeg, cinnamon or rose- 
water, or stew lemon peel with them for flavor, or squeeze orange 
juice over the top ; fill crust and bake till done ; a teaspoon butter 
m each pie is an improvement, and some add a little boiled cider : 
spread over the apple a thick meringue made of well-whipped whites 
of three eggs for each pie, sweetened with three tablespoons powdered 
sugar ; flavor with vanilla, beat until it will stand alone, and covej; 
pie three-quarters of an inch thick ; place in oven a few moment? 
and eat cold. Peach and Pieplant Meringue Pie made same way. 

Banana-pie. — Slice raw bananas, add butter, sugar, allspice 
and vinegar, or boiled cider, or diluted jelly ; bake with two crusts. 
Cold boiled sweet potatoes may be used instead of bananas, and are 
very nice. For Banana and Apple-pie, slice three or four bananas 
and enough apples to fill the pie, sprinkle sugar over and cover, 
spreading a little butter over top crust and sifting sugar over. Bake 
about twenty minutes. Or peel three or four bananas, slice each in 
two or three pieces lengthwise and place in the pie two layers deep, 
cover moderately with sugar, drop a blade of mace broken in pieces 



PASTRY. 615 

and bits of fresh butter over the slices, pour in four tablespoons 
lemon juice, and bake in one crust in moderate oven twenty minutes. 

Boiled- Cider-pie. — Beat together one egg, cup sugar and two 
tablespoons corn-starch and add half cup boiled cider, two-thirds 
cup cold water, teaspoon extract lemon ; bake with two crusts, or 
like a custard-pie, as preferred. The egg may be omitted, and the 
mixture may be cooked before putting in pie. 

Buttermilk-pie. — Two well-beaten eggs, two cups buttermilk, 
two tablespoons each flour and butter and cup sugar ; mix well, fla- 
vor with lemon and bake in one crust ; makes two pies. Meringue 
tops if liked, and any open pie can be meringued when wished nicer. 

Carrot-Pie. — Thoroughly clean and scrape some carrots, boil 
till tender and mash through a sieve. To a pint strained pulp and 
six well-beaten eggs add three pints boiling milk, two tablespoons 
melted butter, juice of half and grated rind of whole lemon, and 
sugar to taste. Bake in deep pie-pan in one crust. Or make as 
Pumpkin-pie, which it resembles. 

Oherry-pie. — Line pie-pan with rich crust; nearly fill with 
carefully stoned fruit, sweeten to taste, and sprinkle evenly with tea- 
spoon corn-starch or tablespoon flour, add tablespoon butter cut in 
small bits and scattered over top ; wet edge of crust, put on upper 
crust, and press edges closely together, taking care to provide holes 
in center for the escape of air. Blackberry, Raspberry and Cran- 
berry-pies are all made same way, regulating quantity of sugar by 
tartness of fruit. May be baked in one crust, with Diamond Top. 

Chess-pie. — Beat half cup butter to a cream, then add yolks of 
three eggs, and two-thirds cup sugar beaten to a froth with any fla- 
voring liked ; stir all together rapidly, and bake in nice crust. When 
done, cover with a meringue of the Avhites. This makes one pie, 
which serve immediately. Add half cup milk if not liked so rich. 

Corn-starch Pies. — One quart milk, yolks of two eggs, two 
tablespoons corn-starch ; mix starch in a little milk, boil rest of 
milk to a thick cream, beat yolks, add starch and put in the boiled 
milk with one cup sugar ; bake with an under crust, covering with 
a meringue of the two whites. 

Berry-pie. — Allow two heaping tablespoons sugar and tea" 
spoon corn-starch, or tablespoon flour for each pie, mix thoroughly 
together, and after lining pie-pan with a good paste, sprinkle one 
tablespoon of the mixture evenly over bottom, put berries in smooth' 
ly, sprinkle over remainder of sugar mixture, and if wanted very 
rich, bits of butter also, cover with upper crust and bake in moderate 
oven. A little more sugar or flour is needed for some kinds of ber- 



616 



PASTRY. 




*'ies than others, according to their tartness or juiciness. Cranber- 
ies will require double the above quantities, and are nice baked 

with a Diamond Top made as follows : 
roll a piece of nice paste very thin, cut 
into strips a sixth of an inch wide and 
place in cross-bars three-quarters of an 
inch apart over each pie, making dia- 
DiamoncTT^op. mond-shapcd spaces; pinch down the 

ends, trim oflF dough, cutting close to rim of pan, and place around 
the edge, the strip of paste cut with the j agger, as illustrated in the 
preface ; and a handsomer cover is made by also cutting the strips for 
the top with the j agger. The diamond top is very nice for any berry or 
fruit-pie. Berry-pies are best served cold, unless directed otherwise in 
recipes. For Canned- Berry-pies^ if the berries are put up with sugar, 
they will not need any more sweetening, and little if any flour or corn- 
starch, though this will depend upon quantity of juice used. If 
canned without sugar, follow first rule. Dried- Berry-pies can be 
made to rival fresh fruit in flavor by putting the berries in without 
stewing. Sprinkle bottom crust with sugar mixture as above, then 
put in smoothly as many berries as will be required to make a full 
pie when done, remembering that they swell fully a third in cooking, 
sprinkle over rest of mixture and add water in same proportion as 
if stewing the fruit, cover with crust and bake. Or first stew the 
fruit and proceed as above. Two dried fruits combined, as raspber- 
ries and blackberries ; or raspberries and apples ; or with larger 
fruits, peaches and apples make a palatable pie. 

A wise authority on cookery has said "Never spice either fresh 
or dried fruits, lest you destroy their flavor ; if it is desirable to 
heighten the flavor of any fruit in pies, sauces etc., add juice from 
another fruit. For instance, flavor apples with pine-apple or quince ; 
strawberries with orange or pine-apple ; or raspberries with currants. 

Cocoa-nut-pie. — Pint milk, a cocoa-nut, cup sugar, three eggs ; 
grate cocoa-nut, mix with yolks of eggs and sugar, stir in milk, fill- 
ing the pan even full, and bake in one crust. Make a meringue of 
whites of eggs and sugar. If prepared cocoa-nut is used, one heap- 
ing tea-cup is required, soaked overnight. A tablespoon butter may 
be added. Or reserve the milk of the cocoa-nut and mix it with 
cup cream instead of using milk as above. A slight flavoring of 
orange or lemon extract may be added, if liked. 

Cottage- Cheese-pie. — Mix tablespoon flour with butter size of 
walnut, add two large cups cottage cheese and six tablespoons sugar ; 
mix thoroughly and stir in four beaten eggs. Flavor with cinnamon, 
and bake in an under crust. 

Cream-pie. — Beat thoroughly together white of one egg, half 
cup sugar, and tablespoon flour ; add cup cream, bake with a bot- 



PASTRY. 617 

torn crust, and grate nutmeg on top. Or for two pies use whites of 
three eggs, omitting the flour, and some use three-fourths cup sugar 
for each pie. For a Creamless Pie, use yolks of two eggs, two- 
thirds cup sugar, half cup flour and one pint milk ; mix eggs, flour 
and sugar thoroughly and stir into milk when it boils ; flavor with 
lemon or vanilla. Bake a crust, pour mixture in, and place in oven 
fifteen minutes ; make a meringue of the whites of eggs. A cup 
raisins may be added to either of above, if flavor is liked. 

Whipped- Cream-pie.— Sweeten with white sugar a cup very 
thick sweet cream, made as cold as possible without freezing, and 
flavor with lemon or vanilla to taste ; whip to a froth and place on 
ice ; make a moderately rich crust, prick well with a fork to prevent 
blistering, bake, and when cold, spread on cream, and serve with bits 
of jelly over top. Will make two pies. Or With Fruit, cover a 
buttered pie-plate with Pufif or Short Paste rolled very thin, and cut 
ofi" about an inch from the edge all around the plate. Spread over 
very evenly a thin layer of cooked paste made as for Boston Cream 
Pufis, page 86. Put a tube, measuring about half an inch in diame- 
ter, in meringue bag, turn remainder of cooked 
paste into the bag and press it through the tube 
on to edges of plate, where the pufif paste has 
been cut off", making the border of equal thick- 
ness all round. Prick holes in the paste in cen- 
ter of plate, and bake half an hour in moder- 
ate oven. Make the paste left in bag into balls 
airingne Bag. about half thc size of walnuts. Drop them in 

lightly buttered pan and bake fifteen or twenty minutes. While 
baking, put half cup each water and sugar in small saucepan, and 
boil twenty-five minutes. When the balls and plate of paste are 
done, take the balls on point of skewer or large needle, dip each in 
the syrup and place them on border of paste about two inches apart. 
Do not stir syrup or it will grain. A part of the syrup may be 
poured into a small cup, which place in hot water and use, while 
that remaining in saucepan is kept hot until needed, but it must not 
boil. When all the balls have been used, dip a dozen and a half 
French candied cherries in the syrup and stick them between the 
balls, reserving about half dozen cherries with which to garnish cen- 
ter of cake. For the filling, whip half pint cream to a froth ; soak 
half ounce gelatine two hours in scant third cup milk, then pour on 
this, third cup boiling milk. Place pan of whipped cream in another 
of ice water, and sprinkle over it quarter cup sugar and half teaspoon 
vanilla. Strain gelatine on this, and stir gently from the bottom 
until it begins to thicken. When it will just pour, fill plate with it, 
and set in ice chest for half an hour. Garnish top with the remain- 
ing cherries, and serve. A delicious pie and a very ornamental dish. 
Grumh-pie.—Soak cup bread-crumbs half an hour in a little 
warm water ; add three tablespoons sugar, half tablespoon butter, 




618 PSSTRY. 

half cup cold water, a little vinegar, and nutmeg to taste ; bake in 
two crusts. Or to nearly a pint hot water, add cup sugar, teaspoon 
tartaric acid, half cup bread-crumbs, a grated nutmeg and very small 
lump of butter. Will make two pies ; before putting on the upper 
crust sprinkle with a little flour. Or soak four soda biscuits an hour 
in cold water; mix with them two cups brown sugar and grated rind 
and juice of one lemon. Beat all together thoroughly and bake in 
one crust. For a Cracker-pie, soak cup and a half soda crackers 
until soft in cup of cold water ; add cup sugar, and grated rind and 
juice of one lemon. Bake in two crusts. Crackers maybe rolled in- 
stead of soaked, and an egg or two added. Or for Mock-Mince-pie, 
take twelve crackers rolled fine, half cup vinegar, one cup each hot 
water, molasses, sugar, currants and raisins ; spice to taste. Some 
use one cup dried bread-crumbs, and also add a small cup butter. 
Makes four pies, and is very nice. 

Gree7i- Currant-pie. — Line an inch pie-pan with good crust, 
sprinkle over bottom two heapinp, tablespoons sugar and two of flour, 
(or one of corn-starch) mixed ; then pour in one pint green currants, 
washed clean, and two tablespoons currant jelly ; sprinkle with four 
heaping tablespoons sugar, ai? i add two of cold water ; cover and 
bake fifteen or twent}^ minutes. Or fill the crust half full of currants, 
and add half cup sugar, tablespoon butter, and a little ground cin- 
namon if liked ; fill up the plate with currants, add nearly half cup 
more sugar, and cover with a crust ; bake half an hour in mcderate 
oven. If too sweet, use less sugar. Ripe- Currant-pie made in 
same way, using less sugar ; and to take equal quantities currants and 
either black or red raspberries, make a delicious pie ; or take one cup 
each mashed currants, and sugar, two tablespoons water, one of flour 
beaten with yolks of two eggs ; bake in one crust, and cover with a 
meringue. Or use one whole egg in pie and omit meringue. Some sim- 
ply stem, stew and mash the currants through a sieve, sweeten to taste 
while hot,andAvhen cool bake in one crust. Make Cranberry-pie ?:?ivae, 
preparing berries as for Cranberry Sauce on page 170. For Dried- 
Currant-pie, take the large English currants, cleanse carefully, and 
stew in plenty of water. Sweeten, and thicken with flour till of 
consistency of rich cream. Bake in two crusts. Very good. 

Custard-pie. — Heat a quart good rich milk in a tin pan set in 
skillet of hot water ; beat four or five eggs with four large table- 
spoons sugar, and a little salt, and pour in the milk ; flavor to taste 
and have oven hot, when put in to bake. Cook slowly so as not to 
boil, as that spoils it ; test with' a knife and when done it will not 
stick to blade. Makes one very deep pie, or two of ordinary depth. 
Without the crust, this makes a delicious Baked Custard. Some 
when they both cook the custard, and bake the crust first, fill and 
cover at once with a meringue and only bake long enough to deli- 
cately brown the top. Pies may be made without first cooking th« 



PASTRY. 619 

custard, and the crust may be pricked and baked, but not too hard, 
before filling. This prevents it from becoming soggy. Reserve white 
of one egg for frosting, if liked. Less eggs may be used by substi- 
tuting tablespoon corn-starch for each egg omitted, but when this is 
used the custard must always be first cooked. For a Raspherry- 
Custard-pie stir in a handful fresh raspberries, or enough for one 
layer, just before baking ; they will float on top and form a pleasing 
change. Any berries may be used. For a Jelly-Ciistard-pie.heai 
yolks of four eggs with cup sugar and two tablespoons butter ; add 
cup of any jelly preferred and lastly the beaten whites of eggs and 
bake in one crust ; making a meringue of whites of eggs and spreading 
over top, if liked. Some good housekeepers report that by stirring in- 
to the custard a half cup Graham flour a crust is not needed as the 
flour settles in bottom of pan, forming a very good crust. This may 
be worth an experiment. For a Chocolate- Ctistard-pie, take one- 
fourth cake Bakers's chocolate, grated ; pint boiling water, six eggs, 
quart milk, half cup white sugar, two teaspoons vanilla; dissolve 
chocolate in very little milk, stir into the boiling water, and boil 
three minutes ; when nearly cold, beat in yolks of all the eggs and 
whites of three ; stir this mixture into milk, season, and pour into 
good paste ; when about half done, spread over the remaining whites 
whipped to a froth with three tablespoons sugar. Some use three 
pints milk, omitting the pint water. Makes three ordinary pies or 
two deep ones. It is better for Custard, Cream and Pumpkin-pies to 
use deep pie-pans. 

Elder-herry-pie. — Make same as directed in Berry Pie, sweeten- 
ing to taste, adding a little flour and butter, and always flavor with 
nutmeg. Or use, either fresh, dried or canned, with other fruit, such 
as currants, cherries and grapes ; or a little vinegar, or boiled cider, 
instead of above fruits. 

Fruit-pies. — Fruit-pies in deep dishes are preferable to an ordi- 
nary fruit pie, because more juice and fruit is obtained. The best 
method of making these is as follows : Take a deep, oval pie-dish 
(earthen, not tin), line the edge with paste and about half its depth 
inside ; invert a small cup in center, an egg cup is best, one that will 
stand a little above the edge of dish ; fill dish with fruxt, adding a 
little water if fruit has not much juice, and sugar to taste ; cover 
with a crust of Puff" Paste, brush it with water, or white of an egg, 
and dust with powdered sugar ; then make a few fancy cuts. The 
cup in the center collects the juice, and if the whole of pie is not 
eaten at one meal, what is left can be supplied with juice by simply 
lifting up the cup and allowing the juice to escape. The edge of this 
pie, to be artistic, should be pinched with the finger and thumb, then 
notched with a knife. If fruit is used which gives too much juice, 
prevent boiling over by mixing a little flour with the sugar, about 
one teaipoon flour to twelve of sugar ; or make the sugar mixture 



620 PASTRY. 

as directed in Berry-pies and use in same way. For a very nice 
Deep Apple pie, fill a deep pie-dish, prepared as first directed, with 
sliced apples, adding if liked, a quince cut in slices and stewed till 
tender in a little water and sugar. Or quarter the apples, put in 
preserving kettle with four tablespoons powdered sugar to a pie, and 
add water enough to make a thin syrup ; add a few blades of mace, 
and boil the apple in the syrup a few pieces at a time, to avoid break- 
ing ; take carefully from the kettle and lay them in dishes. When 
enough apples for the number of pies to be made are ready, add to 
syrup cinnamon and rose-water, or any spice wished. Arrange the 
apples in pie-plate with the rim lined with paste as above, pour an 
equal part of the syrup into each pie and cover with top crust ; bake 
a light brown in moderate oven. In making Shalloio FruH-pies 
the cup is omitted, and some pile fruit high in center of under crust, 
leaving space round the sides almost bare of fruit, and when the upper 
crust is put on, press it gently down all around into the groove thus 
formed, make two or three holes in it for the juice to escape, which 
when baking will boil out of the holes and run all round the groove 
with a pretty effect. The groove must be made deep enough to hold 
all juice that boils out or it will run over the pie in streaks. The 
fruit must also be piled high enough in the center to prevent this. 
Whipped cream is delicious with fruit-pies. For Fruit Turn-overs^ 
roll Puff Paste to the thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, and 
cut it out in pieces of a circular form ; pile the fruit on half the 
l>aste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet the edges and turn the paste 
over. Press edges together, ornament them, and brush the turn-overs 
over with the white of an egg ; sprinkle over sifted sugar, and bake 
on tins, in a brisk oven, for about twenty minutes. Instead of put- 
ting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down with a little sugar first, 
and then enclosed in the crust ; or jam of any kind may be substi- 
tuted for fresh fruit. Suitable for picnics. 

Oooseberry-pie. — Take either green, or not too ripe gooseberries. 
Put in saucepan with enough Avater to prevent burning, and stew 
slowly until they break, stirring often. Sweeten well and set away 
to cool. When cold, pour in pie-pan lined with paste, cover with a 
crust or Diamond Top, and bake in oven. Eat cold but fresh, with 
powdered sugar sifted over top. Or use the ripe berries without first 
cooking, as in Berry-pie. Some also add a pinch of salt. 

Grape-pie. — Stem the grapes, place in kettle over fire, with 
plenty of water to prevent burning ; let boil, remove, and when cool 
enough put in jell}^ bag and squeeze ; return juice to kettle, sweeten 
to taste, add pinch of salt, and when it boils thicken with corn- 
starch to the consistency of custard ; have ready a baked crust, pour 
in the mixture, cover with a meringue, brown in the oven and serve 
cold. If meringue is not used the pie does not need to be placed in 
oven. Or grapes may be used without cooking, as in Cherry-pie. 



PASTRY. 621 

Hickory -nut-pie. — Mash a pound hickory-nut kernels fine, add 
three-fourths cup sweet milk with tablespoon flour, mixed smooth 
in little of the milk, and three tablespoons sugar. Stir well together 
and bake in one crust, covering with meringue. 

Lemon-pie. — Grated rind and juice of one lemon, cup sugar, 
yolks of three eggs, tablespoon butter, three tablespoons milk, two 
teaspoons corn-starch; beat all together and bake in rich crust; 
spread a meringue of the whites over pie when done, and brown in 
oven. If meringue is not wished, use a whole egg instead of three 
yolks in pie. Or, scald a cup milk, or water, stir in the corn-starch, 
mixed smooth in the three tablespoons milk, and when cooked, cool 
and add remaining ingredients. A tablespoon flour may be used 
instead of the corn-starch. Some use finely rolled crumbs from an 
ordinary slice of bread for thickening, when only two eggs or two 
yolks and a cup water or milk should be used in above recipe. Or, 
beat yolks of four eggs until very smooth, add grated peel of one 
lemon, and one and a half cups sugar, beat well, stir in two table- 
spoons flour, and add the lemon juice (if lemons are small two may 
be necessary), and lastly two-thirds cup water; stir well, and pour 
in pie-pans lined with paste. When baked, take from oven, and 
spread over them a meringue and brown. Or for Boiled. Lemon-pie 
make a syrup of a cup each boiling water and sugar, add grated rind 
and juice of one lemon, well-beaten yolks of two eggs, tablespoon 
corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, and teaspoon butter. 
Cook till thick ; then pour into a crust already baked, spread with 
a meringue and brown in oven. This makes one pie, but two pies 
can be made of one lemon by doubling the quantity of all the other 
ingredients. Or for an Economical Lemon-pie^ take one pint water, 
add the juice, grated rind and chopped pulp of one lemon; when 
boiling, stir in half pint sugar and third of a pint flour, well mixed 
(when corn-starch or flour is added to any liquid if mixed with the 
dry sugar it will not be lu-mpy). When partially thickened, place in 
pie-pan lined with Quaker Paste, cover with upper crust and bake. 
For Chopped- Ljemon-pie., grate rind and chop pulp of three lemons, 
from which the white outside pith and seeds have been carefully 
taken ; this is very necessary where the whole lemon is used as they 
impart a bitter flavor. Beat together yolks of four eggs, three cups 
sugar, half cup cold water, pinch salt and tablespoon corn-starch, 
mixed smooth in part of the water ; add the prepared lemon and 
well-frothed whites of eggs and bake with two crusts. 

Eggless Leynon-pie. — Mix tablespoon corn-starch smooth with 
little water, and stir in cup boiling water ; add juice and grated rind 
of a lemon, cup sugar, tablespoon butter and bake with one or two 
crusts as preferred. A raw potato size of lemon, grated, may be 
stirred in tne boiling water instead of corn-starch. Or Wtth Fruit, 
take cup each sugar, water and seeded raisins, one lemon, and grated 



622 PASTRY. 

rind if flavor is liked ; chop lemon and raisins, fine, and some cook 
the raisins with the water three-quarters of an hour, stirring in, just 
before taking off fire, a tablespoon corn-starch made smooth with a 
little water. Add the sugar and chopped lemon and bake in two 
crusts. Or the j nice of two lemons may be used, and the whole baked 
in three crusts, putting on bottom crust a layer of the chopped fruit 
with sugar and little corn-starch sprinkled over, then another crust, 
rolled very thin, and layer of fruit, etc., then the top crust. 

Sliced- Lemo7i-pi6. — Pare carefully one large or two small lem- 
ons, slice thin, remove seeds, cover with two cups sugar and let 
stand an hour. Then put smoothly in two pie-pans lined with paste, 
add three tablespoons cold water and sprinkle over each a teaspoon 
corn-starch. Bake with upper crust. A little grated lemon peel may 
be added. Or put the slices of lemon in the crusts, with a cup sugar, 
teaspoon butter in bits and tablespoon flour, sprinkled in last, to 
each pie. Cover with upper crust and bake. If lemons are not very 
juicy, add two or three tablespoons water to each pie. 

Mince-meat. — Take six pounds scraggy beef — a neck piece will 
do — and boil in water enough to cover ; take oif scum that rises 
when it reaches boiling point, add hot water from time to time until 
tender, then remove lid from pot. salt, let boil till almost dr}?-, turn- 
ing the meat over occasionally in the liquor, take from the fire, and 
let stand overnight in the liquor to get thoroughly cold ; pick bones, 
gristle, or stringy bits from the meat, chop very fine, mincing at the 
same time three pounds nice beef suet ; seed and cut four pounds 
raisins, wash and dry three pounds currants, slice thin pound of 
citron, chop fine four quarts good-cooking tart apples ; put all in 
large pan together, add two ounces cinnamon, one of cloves, one of 
ginger, four nutmegs, juice and grated rinds of three lemons, table- 
spoon salt, teaspoon pepper, and two pounds sugar. Put in a porce- 
lain kettle quart boiled cider, or better still, quart currant or grape 
juice (canned when grapes are turning from green to purple), quart 
nice molasses or syrup, and, if any syrup at hand left from sweet 
pickles, add some of that, also a good lump of butter; let it come 
to boiling point, and pour over ingredients in pan after having first 
mixed them well, then mix again thoroughly. Taste, and if not 
properly flavored, add more boiled cider, fruit juice, or seasoning, as 
needed. It should have a smooth agreeable taste with no one flavor 
predominating. Pack in jars and put in a cool place, and, when 
cold, pour molasses over the top an eighth of an inch in thickness, 
and cover tightly. This will keep two months. For baking, take 
some out of jar, if not moist enough add a little hot water, and strew a 
few whole raisins over each pie. Instead of boiled beef, a beefs tongue 
or heart or roast meat may be used, the tongue making the choicest 
of all. For a very nice and rich Holiday Mince-meat, use half and 
half boiled beef and tongue with same proportions of other ingred- 



TASTRY. 623 

ients and add juice and rind of three oranges, quarter pound each 
candied orange and lemon peel, sliced thin ; three-quarters pound 
sweet ahnonds and an ounce bitter almonds (weighed after shelling), 
blanched and chopped, and half teaspoon almond extract. Also 
omit two nutmegs and add teaspoon mace, and if the syrup is ob- 
jected to use instead two pounds more sugar. In baking, a table- 
spoon sweet cream for each pie, heated and stirred into the mince- 
meat just before filling in crusts, is a great improvement. 

The above are good formulas, but, of course, may be varied to 
suit different tastes or the material at hand, and for convenience a 
few Suggestions for Mince-meat are given : If too rich add more 
chopped apples. Reserve some of the liquor in which the meat was 
boiled to moisten the mince-meat ; if the fat which forms on top of 
the liquor is also added less suet will be required. In lieu of cider, 
vinegar and water in equal proportions may be used ; and some think 
a little vinegar should be added when either cider or boiled cider, 
are used, more being required with the latter; but if the apples are 
carefully washed and pared, the strained juice obtained from the 
parings, stewed in a little water, or cooked in a crock as for jelly, 
is better than any other wetting, to which a little vinegar may be 
added ; or use any kind of tart fruit juice ; or some use cold coffee 
and tea with a little vinegar. Good preserves, marmalades, spiced 
pickles, currant or grape jelly, canned fruit, dried cherries, prunelles, 
etc., may take the place of raisins, currants and citrons. Wine or 
brandy is considered by many a great improvement, but if "it causeth 
thy brother to offend" do not use it. Lemon and vanilla extracts 
are often used. The Mince-meat is better to stand overnight, or 
several days, before baking into pies, as tlie materials will be more 
thoroughly incorporated. Although many do not put in the apples 
when mince-meat is made, thinking it keeps better and longer with- 
out, but chop and add them to the quantity to be used about an hour 
before baking, in equal proportions, though some prefer after chop- 
ping to sweeten and stew the apples till partially done, then add to 
the prepared mixture, and make into pies. Both apples and meat 
may be put through the sausage grinder instead of chopping. Some 
do not cook the beef before chopping and putting ingredients to- 
gether, when it will be necessary, after mixing, to cook all thoroughly 
until meat is tender, adding a little water, if needed ; others who 
cook the meat first, always cook the mince-meat after mixing until 
apples are tender. Dried-apples may be used in mince-meat, simply 
soaking overnight before chopping, and when evaporated apples are 
used the pies are nearly if not quite as excellent as those made with 
fi'csh apples, but the mince-meat must be thoroughly cooked. A 
good proportion for a few pies is one-third chopped meat and two- 
thirds apples, with a little suet, raisins spices, butter and sah, and 
enough boiled cider to make of desired consistency. Care should 
be taken not to have the mince-meat too thick, or the pies will be 



624 



PASTRY. 



dry and hard. When ready to use, it is a good plan to test by first 
baking a small pie or turn-over. Many prefer to freeze Mince-pies 
after baking, heating them as wanted. 

Appleless Mince-meat. — Chop fine eight pounds green tomatoes, 
add six pounds sugar, one ounce each cloves, cinnamon and allspice, 
and simmer slowly till tomatoes are clear, then put away in covered 
jar. For pies in winter, take in proportion of two-thirds tomatoes 
and one-third meat, and season with butter, boiled cider, sugar if 
needed, etc., as regular mince-pies would be seasoned. Chopped 
Pie-plant, used as apples in any of the Mince-meat recipes makes a 
delicious pie, and the canned pie-plant may also be used. 

Farmers' Mince-meat. Clean pigs' hocks (the joints above the 
feet), and let stand overnight with the tongue and heart in salt water ; 
then cook until tender in enough Avater so that a quart will remain 
when meat is taken out, which will be a nice thick jelly. Chop 
the meat fine, first removing all bones and skin, and add double the 
quantity of chopped apples, with the jelly from the meat, removing 
grease from top ; add spices to taste, with raisins or English cur- 
rants, and enough apple juice, prepared as in Suggestions for Mince- 
meat, or vinegar and cider to moisten well. Or the meat from a 
chicken with the liquor from it may be used, adding other ingredr 
ients as above, but makes only small quantity. 

Fragment Mince-meat. — Take one pint chopped corned beef, or 
remains of any cold meat will do, carefully removing all bits of skin, 
gristle and bone, and if very lean adding a little fat pork, twelve or- 
dinary sized potatoes, scalded until softened, but not thoroughly 
cooked, and chopped, pint bread-crumbs, and any bits of cake, dough- 
nuts, etc., chopped fine, juice of four lemons with the chopped pulp 
and a little grated rind, pint each sugar and molasses, or sweetening 
to taste, pound raisins, or dried currants and any "left-over" pre- 
serves at hand, or dried apple sauce, with spices to taste ; put all 
together over fire with cold coffee, tea and a little vinegar — about 
three pints wetting in all — bring to scalding heat and add three or 
four well-beaten eggs, or these may be omitted. Do not make too 
thick as the mixture hardens in baking ; thin with water if necessary. 
Before putting into pies, taste and add more vinegar or seasoning if 
needed. These fragment pies have been so successfully made as to 
be thought the real mince article, but judgment must be used in 
amount of sugar, wetting and seasoning needed. 

Lemon Mince-meat. — Boil four ripe thin-skinned lemons in 
quart water till water has half boiled away ; squeeze the juice over 
two pounds white sugar, remove seeds and chop rinds and pulp fine ; 
chop a pound seedless raisins and two pounds suet, then mix all to- 
gether and add two pounds currants, an ounce mixed ground spices 
and a gill each water and vinegar. Two ounces blanched and chopped 



PASTRY. 625 

sweet almonds and half pound citron may be added if liked. Two 
lemons may be omitted, also the raisins, and six large apples, chopped, 
added instead. Put in a jar, stir occasionally, and it will be ready 
for use in a week or ten days. Or three each lemons and apples may 
be prepared as follows : grate rinds of lemons, carefully remove white 
pith, squeeze out juice, strain it, and boil remainder of lemons with 
seeds removed, until tender, take off and pulp or chop very finely, 
add rind and juice and the pulp from the apples, which have been 
baked ; put in the remaining ingredients one by one, and as they 
are added, mix everything very thoroughly together. A chopped 
tongue may be added if liked, although no meat is necessary. 

Measured Mince-meat — One and a half pints chopped meat, 
three pints chopped apples, half pint chopped suet or butter, or 
equal parts of each, half pint each vinegar and cider, pint raisins, 
two pints sugar, or one of sugar and one of molasses, one tablespoon 
each cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, half tablespoon each salt and 
pepper, and grated rind and juice of one lemon. Scald the suet after 
chopping, and cook with other ingredients until apples are tender 
before adding spices. If too thick, add equal parts vinegar and water. 

Molasses-pie. — Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, 
half cup New Orleans or sorghum molasses, cup white sugar, butter 
size of a walnut, cup sour cream, teaspoon soda stirred into molas- 
ses, whites mixed in last ; or reserve two whites for meringue. Bake 
slowly in moderate oven. Nutmeg gives a nice flavor. Another half 
cup molasses may be added with teaspoon corn-starch, making suf- 
ficient for two pies. They may also be baked with two crusts. 

Orange-pie. — Cream tablespoon butter and four of sugar, add 
beaten yolks of four eggs, grated rind and juice of two oranges, and, 
lastly, the whites beaten to a froth, and mixed in lightly. Bake in 
one crust half an hour. Whites of two eggs may be reserved and 
used for meringue for top. If not liked so rich use milk or cream 
instead of butter. Or beat cup poAvdered sugar and tablespoon but- 
ter to a cream ; mix tablespoon corn-starch with a little cold water, 
and add cup boiling water ; cook long enough to thicken, stirring 
constantly ; then pour the mixture over butter and sugar, add grated 
rind of half an orange, beaten egg and juice of an orange. Peel an- 
other orange, and slice in little thin bits, being careful to remove all 
the seeds and the tough white skin. Line a pie-pan with nice paste 
and bake until just done ; then fill with the custard and orange slices 
and bake long enough to cook the egg. A meringue may be added 
if liked. The following California Pie is a very elaborate recipe : 
Stir a cup sifted sugar with juice of six large oranges over fire until 
hot, skim and set aside to cool. When nearly cold add yolks of six 
eggs, beaten very light and a half pint cream ; stir over a slow fire 
until thick. Turn into baked crusts and spread a meringue on top, 



«26 



PASTRY. 



and brown in oven. Or serve as Orange Custard in glasses with a 
heaped tablespoon of the whites of eggs beaten with a cup powdered 
sugar on each, or the same of whipped cream. For a Sliced- Orange- 
pie, pare oranges very thin, soak whole in water three days, chang- 
ing the water frequently. Boil until soft. When cold, cut a thick 
slice from the top and bottom, and the rest in thin slices ; bake in 
rich under crust, fiUing with layers of sugar and the thin slices of 
oranges alternately. 

Peach-pie. — Line a pie-pan with Puff Paste, fill with pared 
peaches in halves or quarters, well covered with sugar; put on upper 
crust and bake ; or make as above without upper crust, bake until 
done, remove from oven, and cover with a meringue. Canned peach- 
es may be used instead of fresh, in the same way. Or bake in two 
separate pans an under and upper crust in a quick oven fifteen min- 
utes ; when done place in the lower crust one quart peaches pre- 
pared by slicing, and adding three tablespoons each sugar and cream, 
cover with top crust, and place in oven for five minutes. A2)ricot, 
Maspberr]/ and Strawherry-pies may be made same way. Adding 
a few of the kernels, blanched and chopped fine, improves apricot 
and peach-pies. For Cream Peach-pie, line a deep dish with Cream 
Paste ; pare and halve nice ripe peaches, or they may be left whole, 
and fill the dish. Beat a pint cream and three tablespoonfuls sugar 
together and pour over the peaches ; dredge on a little flour, put on 
top crust, and bake until peaches are well cooked. Berry or Cur- 
rant-pies ma}^ be made same. 

Pried- Peach-pie. — Stew peaches until perfectly soft in as little 
water as possible, mash fine, and for two pies add half cup sweet 
cream, and one cup sugar ; bake with two crusts. Or, omit cream, 
and add half cup boiling water, and butter size of hickory-nut. For 
Turn-overs, roll paste rather thin and size of pie-pan ; place it in 
latter, spread the prepared fruit, not too thick, on half of the paste, 
double over the other half and pinch the edges firmly together ; prick 
top with a fork and bake. 

Pie- plant-pie. — Mix half cup white sugar and heaping teaspoon 
flour together, sprinkle over the bottom crust, then add the pie-plant 
chopped or cut up fine ; sprinkle over this another half cup sugar 
and heaping teaspoon flour ; bake fully three-quarters of an hour in 
a slow oven. In preparing pie-plant for any pur])ose some pour on 
boiling water and let stand a few moments, or till cold, then pour 
off, and much of the sharp acid taste will be removed, thus requir- 
ing less sugar in the seasoning. Somecoverthebottom crust thickly 
with sifted bread-crumbs before putting in the pie-plant, prepared by 
first splitting the stalks lengthAvise, to have them as thin as possible, 
then cutting in inch pieces. A few small bits of butter added are 
an improvement, and any spice or extract may be used for flavoring. 
Grated lemon rind is also nice. Cover with top crust and bake. 



PASSRY. 



627 



Make With Fruit, by adding raisins in proportion of one cup rais- 
ins, chopped, to two of chopped pie-plant ; add sugar to taste, little 
butter, and sprinkle over little flour before putting on upper crust. 
A mixture of black currants and pie-plant is liked by some. For 
Steioed- Pie-plant-pie, cook one and a half cups chopped pie-plant 
with half cup water and two-thirds cup sugar, adding tablespoon 
corn-starch or flour made smooth in little water just before taking 
from fire ; let cool and add teaspoon lemon extract, pinch of salt, 
yolks of two eggs and white of one ; bake in one crust, using white 
of egg for meringue. Grated rind and juice of a lemon may be 
added instead of the extract, and only the two yolks used with the 
fruit, or use one egg and cover with a Diamond Top. 

Pine-apple-pie. — Pare, carefully remove all specks and grate 
one pine-apple ; beat half cup butter and cup sugar to a cream and 
add beaten yolks of five eggs, the grated pine-apple and cup sweet 
cream, stirring in lightly the whipped whites of eggs last. Bake in 
one crust. Some take same quantity of sugar as pine-apple and 
half as much butter, with other ingredients as above. 

Plum-pie. — Put plums in a little sugar and water, and simmer 
until tender ; then take out and put them in a dish, add more sugar 
to juice, and boil till it begins to thicken ; then turn it over the 
plums, and set aside to cool. When cold, line pie-pan with a rich 
paste, fill with plums, cover with Puff Paste, and bake half an hour. 

Potato-pie.— Keoi quart sweet milk and when boiling stir in 
cup grated potato ; let cool, and add two or three eggs well beaten, 
half cup sugar and nutmeg, or grated rind of a lemon, to taste ; bake 
without upper crust ; eat day it is baked. Makes two pies. Or boil 
and mash potatoes through sieve and make as above. For a richer 
pie use one-third as much potato pulp as milk. Whites of two eggs 
may be reserved for meringue, to which add juice of half a lemon. 

Sweet- Potato-pie. — Boil sweet potatoes until well done, mash 
and rub through sieve ; to each pint pulp, add three pints sweet milk, 
tablespoon melted butter, cup sugar, three eggs, pinch of salt and 
nutmeg or lemon to flavor. Use rich paste for under crust. Reserve 
whites of two eggs for meringue. For a richer pie use equal quan- 
tities potato pulp and milk. If wanted still richer omit the milk 
and add two tablespoons soft butter. Some add juice and rind of a 
lemon, and any flavoring liked may be used ; tablespoon cinnamon 
and teaspoon nutmeg give a nice flavor. A little ginger may be 
added if liked. Or Une a deep plate with good paste and put in a 
layer of sliced sweet potatoes, that have been baked until nearly 
done ; sprinkle brown sugar thickly over, put in a layer of thin slices 
of butter, with a sprinkling of flour and spices to taste ; using a 
heaping tablespoon each butter and flour for one pie ; put in another 
layer of potatoes piled a little in center ; mix together equal quan- 



628 PASTRY. 

titles lemon juice and water, or vinegar and water and pour in enough 
to half fill the pie ; sprinkle over the potato a little flour and place 
on the upper crust, pinching the edges carefully together. 

Prune-pie. — Take two cups French prunes, washed thoroughly 
and soaked in water overnight ; cup sugar, teaspoon extract lemon, 
two tablespoons boiled cider, one-third cup water ; sprinkle teaspoon 
flour over top of each pie ; bake twenty-five minutes in rather hot 
oven. The boiled cider may be omitted, and half a lemon, peeled 
and sliced thin, used instead, or a tablespoon vinegar. Some cook 
the mixture, adding the flour, before putting in pie. For a Prune- 
Custard'pie, soak prunes overnight and cook as for Stewed Prunes ; 
meantime make a custard of two tablespoons corn-starch, quart 
milk, two eggs and four tablespoons sugar, with little butter and salt 
and stir in the prunes. Bake in one crust. Whites of eggs may be 
reserved from custard for a meringue if desired. A few raisins may 
be stewed with the prunes and grated lemon rind added for flavor- 
ing. Some remove the pits before putting prunes in custard. 

Pumpkin-pie. — Pare pumpkin, cut in small pieces, and stew in 
half pint water ; it is better to stew very slowly, stirring often ; when 
soft, mash very fine with potato-masher, let the water dry away, watch- 
ing closely and stirring to prevent burning or scorching; or take from 
kettle and pulp through sieve ; for each pie take one egg,white and yolk 
beaten separately, adding white last, half cup sugar, two tablespoons 
pumpkin, half pint rich milk (a little cream will improve it), a little 
salt ; beat well together, and season with cinnamon or nutmeg, and a 
half teaspoon ginger improves the flavor. Bake with under crust in a 
hot oven. Some stew pumpkin all day, on back of stove, with a lit- 
tle water, stirring every little while to prevent burning. A quantity 
may be cooked at one time, and it is considered sweeter to be 
thus prepared ; then pulp through colander and take amount 
wanted, putting remainder in a cool place. To three table- 
spoons pulp add two-thirds pint milk, teaspoon flour, one egg, 
I^^B^^ beaten as above, tablespoon each butter and su- 
'^ ^^^^ P gar and one-third teaspoon each nutmeg, cinnamon 
and ginger for one pie. Too much sugar makes the pies watery. 
Bake in a deep pie-pan as illustrated. Some steam pumpkin instead 
of stewing, when it should be placed in pan on back of stove for 
moisture to dry out, then put through sieve. Baking is a nice way 
of preparing pumpkin ; cut in pieces, take out seeds and bake until 
soft ; it will be sweet and dry, without the trouble of watching and 
stirring, and may be pulped through a sieve and used immediately. 
In whatever way pumpkin is cooked, some do not take out the net- 
work inside, but simply remove seeds carefully, and some even 
leave in a few seeds, as the pulping through sieve removes the 
pieces of seed, thinking it all enriches the pulp. The propor- 
tions of ingredients are varied to suit the taste, though from 



PASTRY. % ""^ 



half to two -thirds as much pumpkin as milk is a general rule, 
with an egg for each pie as above and sugar and flavoring to taste. 
Another rule, which makes very rich pies, is to each quart pumpkin 
pulp add two heaping tablespoons butter, five eggs, beaten as above, 
quart milk, cup sugar, tablespoon mixed ground spice and teaspoon 
salt ; stir the butter into pumpkin while hot ; or omit the butter and 
use twelve eggs with same proportions other ingredients, borne heat 
the mixture, stirring constantly, before putting in pans, others add 
half the milk to pumpkin and heat the rest and stir m just betore 
baking. Always beat the yolks of eggs and sugar together, berve 
pumpkin pies either warm or cold, but they are considered m then- 
prime an hour after they are baked. For Eggless Fumpkin-pie, 
add to each pint and a half pumpkin pulp, quart milk, tablespoon 
butter, cup sugar, little salt, tablespoon cinnamon, teaspoon ginger, 
two tablespoons flour, or one of corn-starch ; or roll crackers or 
bread-crumbs fine and use for thickening. Some use equal quan- 
tities pumpkin and milk, thinking it necessary to have them 
thicker when made without eggs, and also heat the milk m custard 
kettle, adding the flour and cooking ten minutes ; then stir it into 
the pumpkin, first having thoroughly beaten into the latter the su gar, 
or better, tablespoon and ahalf molasses of any kind. As the thicken- 
ing property of pumpkin varies some judgment must be used m ad- 
ding milk. Any flavoring liked may be used; a little sassafras is deli- 
cious, grated lemon rind is also nice, and either is an agreeable change 
from nutmeg or the spices so commonly used. Half pumpkin and 
half stewed and pulped apples make a pie liked by some. Squash- 
pies are made same as pumpkin. For Dried- PumpJcin-ptes, so&k 
pumpkin overnight in milk, and then use as "n any of above recipes ; 
or place pumpkin in sauce pan, add water to cover and cook till soft, 
adding water as needed ; then pulp through sieve and use as above. 
If dried pumpkin is a little scorched, or too brown, cook five or ten 
minutes, then pour off water and add fresh and finish as directed. 

Raisin-pie.— Or\Q cup each raisins, water and sugar, heaping 
tablespoon flour, and small lump butter ; put the water on raisms 
and boil five minutes ; add flour, smoothed in a httle cold water, 
then add sugar, and boil five minutes longer ; stir m the butter and 
bake with a rich upper and under crust. Or take one cup each su- 
gar and raisins, one and a half of thick, sour milk, one egg, two 
teaspoons cinnamon and one of cloves ; makes two pies. ^ Bake in 
two crusts. Another excellent pie takes one pound each raisms and 
sugar, a lemon, and tablespoon butter; boil the raisins half day 
without cutting ; when tender, mix tablespoon flour smooth in little 
water and stir in to scald in the juice; add grated rind of a lenion 
and the lemon, sliced, removing pith and seeds. Makes four pies, 
and will keep like mince. In any of the recipes cracker-crunibs 
may be used in place of flour, and vinegar in place of the lemon juice. 
Nice baked with a Diamond Top. 



PASTRY. 



Rice-pie. — To one quart boiling water, add cup rice and boil 
until soft ; remove from fire, add quart cold milk, teaspoon salt, five 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, teaspoon extract of nut- 
meg, or a grated nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Some prefer to pulp 
rice through a sieve. Bake in one crust, and raisins may be added, 
if liked. If cold boiled rice is used, heat it in the milk, and take in 
proportion of one cup rice to cup and a half sweet milk ; then add 
three tablespoons sugar beaten with yolks of two eggs and lastly the 
well-frothed whites. Slightly brown the under crust, fill and bake. 
Or to one quart boiling milk add small cup rice flour mixed in a lit- 
tle cold milk, and two tablespoons butter ; when cold, stir in yolks 
of five eggs, beaten as above, flavor with vanilla, add frothed whites 
and bake in one crust, covering with a meringue made from three 
of the whites. Makes two pies. 

Strawberry-pie. — Pick the berries carefull3^ Line a pie-plate 
with good paste, put in a layer of the strawberries, and sprinkle 
thickly with sugar ; then another layer and more sugar, till the plate 
is full. Fill very full as strawberries shrink greatly in cooking. 
Cover with light crust, and bake in moderate oven. Or for Sarato- 
ga Pie^ make and bake as above, using Quaker Paste with little 
thicker crusts, and not pinching edges together ; when done, remove 
upper crust and pour in at once a cold cream prepared as follows : 
heat in custard kettle half pint cream or new milk and stir in level 
tablespoon corn-starch made smooth in a little cold milk, cook eight 
minutes and then add lightly well-frothed whites of two eggs beaten 
with heaping tablespoon sugar ; cook three minutes and let cool. 
After adding this, replace the top sind serve the pie when cold. Rasp- 
berries are delicious prepared as above. 

Tomato-pie. — For one pie, peel and slice green tomatoes, add 
four tablespoons vinegar, one of butter, three of sugar ; flavor with 
nutmeg or cinnamon ; bake with two crusts, slowly. This tastes very 
much like green-apple-pie. A little ginger may be sprinkled in, if 
liked, and the grated peel and juice of a lemon is an improvement. 
For Ripe- Tomato-pie^ prepare same way, omitting vinegar and but- 
ter, and before putting on top crust sprinkle in tablespoon flour. Do 
not use lemon juice in this. Flavor with lemon extract. 

Vinegar-pie. — One egg, heaping tablespoon flour, cup sugar ; 
beat all well together, and add tablespoon sharp vinegar, and cup 
cold water ; flavor with nutmeg and bake with two crusts. Or take 
cup sugar, half cup vinegar, two teaspoons flour, one of butter, one 
of cinnamon, two cups water ; boil all together till thick, and bake 
in one crust. Very nice. 

Tart Shells. — These shells are made in various shapes, generally 
from Puff Paste, and used for serving Jellies, Jams, Preserves and 
Oysters, and are also nice for anything usually served in paper cases, 



PASTRY. 681 

when the paste should be rolled very thin, and for Patty Shells baked 
delicately in any shaped patty-pans liked, but those about ^^S^ 
an inch and a quarter deep, are best, and always prick with ^*i"S' 
a fork before baking to prevent blistering, or fill with uncooked rice 
to keep their shape. Any bits of pastry may be utilized for shells, 
and the latter may be kept on hand and reheated when used for jellies 
etc., but this will not be necessary if any preparation that has to be 
heated, or placed in oven, is served in them, and must of course 
never be done when to be used for serving ice-cream, or any cold 
fruit or other creams. The shells for Ice-cream, etc., should be made 
of the paste for Cream Tarts or the Sweet Paste, page 612. For Gut 
Shells^ take Puff Paste, after the last rolling, roll out evenly in a 
sheet a third of an inch in thickness ; whole of the paste need not 
be rolled, but cut off a piece sufficient to make the number of tarts 
wished and roll it out. The sheet being ready, cut the number re- 
quired with a plain or scalloped round cutter, about two and a half 
inches in diameter. Place on baking pans, having turned them over 
bringing the bottom on top. Next brush with beaten egg, or egg 
and water, and if to be used for Jellies, Preserves or any sweet filling, 
dust over with sugar ; then with a small, plain round cutter, an inch 
and a half in diameter, make a mark in center of each, pressing the 
cutter half through. Prick each in center with point of knife or 
fork to prevent blistering, and bake. The part marked with the 
small, round cutter will detach itself from the other part and may 
be removed with a penknife or a fork, leaving a hole into which pour 
the jam or jelly used. Cut out shells with a sharp oniiex giving a 
rapid downward stroke that will cut, not drag through, so that the 
layers may not be pressed together, which prevents their opening 
readily when baking, and keeps them from rising fully. After they 
are cut, place them on the pans or in the patty-pans upside down., 
because the cutter in dividing the paste presses downward toward 
the board, closing the layers, and if placed in oven right side up, the 
edges, pressed somewhat closely together, cannot open fully and con- 
sequently do not rise well, but, if inverted, the layers open more 
evenly at the edges. Some add the jelly before baking, but this 
should not be done, as in baking the heat causes the jelly to boil, and 
it spreads itself over the tart and spoils its appearance. For Layer 
Shells., roll nice puff paste a quarter inch thick and with round cut- 
ter, two and a half inches in diameter, cut out nuinber pieces wanted ; 
then cut same number pieces with cutter a half inch smaller and cut 
out the center of these with a cutter an inch and a half in diameter, 
forming rings ; brush top of first pieces cut with white of egg, place 
the rings last cut on these and bake for single-lay- 
er shells. If wanted more elaborate cut out two 
__^_ rings as above, brush tops with white of egg and 

Layer Shells. put together ou the circle of paste cut with the 

larger cutter for the bottom, making double layer shells. For Py- 




632 



PASTRY. 



ramid Shells, take a piece of Short Paste, or scraps of Puff Paste, 
roll one-fourth of an inch thick, and cut out the number of pieces 
required with the same cutter as for Cut Shells, place them in baking 
pan and prick them with a fork. Cut a like number with same cut- 
ter, and of same thickness from best puff paste ; wash those cut 
from the scraps, or Short Paste, and place those cut from the puff 
paste on them, wash with egg, and prick them in middle. Next cut 
a like number, same.thickness,with same cutter, and from Puff Paste, 
cut the middle out of these with a plain round cutter, an inch and a 
half in diameter, place these rings on the other parts and bake them. 
Or to build in real pyramidal form, use a different-sized cutter for 
each layer, cutting each a quarter inch smaller than the one below, 
but using same cutter, an inch and a half in diameter, for cutting 
out centers of two upper layers. Then put together as above. While 
baking take the piece that comes from the middle of the ring piece 
and roll it out a little larger, then cut three other pieces with a scal- 
loped round cutter, each a size smaller than the others ; place them 
on baking pans, prick them, wash with egg, and bake, and when the 
shells are filled use these for covers. When the shells are all baked 
if the hole is not deep enough for the purpose, remove some of the 
pastry inside the ring with a knife. Pyramid shells are used for 
serving Oyster, Chicken or Lobster Friccassee, and instead of making 
the individual size, they are sometimes made large enough to serve 
the friccassee entire, rolling the paste about an inch thick. An or- 
dinary size would be nine or ten inches in diameter, and may be 
made also as Cut or Layer Shells, laying a plate of the desired size 
on the paste and cutting out the shape with a wet knife, using a 
plate with diameter about two inches smaller for the inner round, 
and cutting about half through the paste. When 
baked, carefully remove this round without 
breaking it, or the under part, and lay it aside 
to be used as a cover for the fricassee when served. 
If the under paste does not seem thoroughly Large voi-au-vent. 
cooked when this is cut out, return to oven. The above shells, both 
large and small, are also styled Vol-au- Vents. To make Folded 
Shells.) roll puff paste thin, cut into two and a half inch squares and 
brush each square over with white of beaten egg, then fold down the 
corners so that all meet in middle ; slightly press together, brush 
with the egg, sift sugar over and bake in quick oven quarter of an 
hour ; when done make a little hole in the middle and put in filling. 
In rolling puflf paste for shells, some wet the top, before folding it 
the last time, with water or a little lemon juice. 

Apple Tarts. — Pare, quarter, core and boil in half cup water 
until very soft, ten large tart apples ; beat till very smooth, and add 
yolks of six or three whole eggs, juice and grated rind of two lem- 
ons, half cup butter, one and a half cups sugar, or more if not sweet 
enough j beat all thoroughly; line patty-pans with Puff Paste, fill 




PASTRY. 633 

with mixture and bake five minutes in hot oven. If wanted very 
nice, make a meringue of whites of six eggs, spread on top of tarts 
and brown slightly. For Almond 2 arts, beat to a cream yolks of 
three eggs, and quarter of a pound sugar, add half pound shelled 
almonds pounded slightly, and bake as above. Or use the whites of 
three eggs, omitting the yolks. For Cocoa-nut Tarts, dissolve half 
pound sugar in quarter pint water, add half a grated cocoa-nut, boil 
slowly a few minutes, and when cold, add well-beaten yolks of three 
eggs and white of one ; beat all well together and bake as above. 
Cover tarts with a meringue made of whites of two eggs. 

Chocolate Tarts. — Dissolve three tablespoons grated chocolate 
in quarter pint milk ; then add one pint scalded milk thickened 
slightly with one and a half tablespoons corn-starch ; dissolve six 
tablespoons granulated sugar in four of hot water, add half teaspoon 
cinnamon and one teaspoon melted butter. When chocolate mix- 
ture is cold add this to it, with half teaspoon vanilla and yolks of 
four eggs well beaten. Line patty-pans with puff paste, fill, bake and 
cover with a meringue. Or they may be lined, filled, baked and kept 
in a cool dry place for a week or two, covering with a meringue, and 
browning in oven just before serving. 

Coventry Tarts. — Take scraps of puff paste and roll out into 
sheet quarter inch thick. Cut number of pieces required with plain 
round cutter three inches in diameter. Roll out as for Preserve 
Tarts, add fancy preserves, then fold or lap paste over in three folds, 
forming a triangle. Turn folded part down on baking pans, wash 
with water, or egg and water, dust with powdered sugar, and bake. 
Do not cut these on top. Or for true Triangle Tarts, Roll the paste 
to a thin sheet and cut it in two and a half inch squares. Put a 
teaspoon jam in center and fold over so as to make a three-cornered 
tart. Run paste jagger along edges to close 
them by cutting off a shred, or pinch them 
Paste Jagger. "" togcthcr wlth fiugcrs. Brush over the tops, 
after placing in baking pan, with egg and water and sprinkle gran- 
ulated sugar upon them, and bake in slow oven. 

Cream Tarts. — Make a short paste with one white and three 
yolks of eggs, tablespoon butter and two of sugar, little salt, and 
flour to mix. Work it very lightly indeed, roll quarter inch thick, 
line patty-pans with it, filling them with rice to keep their shape. 
Bake carefully in moderate oven. Fill with jam, placing tablespoon 
whipped cream on top. A very pretty dish. They may be filled 
with a Chocolate Ice, made by cooking a syrup of quart water and 
pint sugar half an hour ; then adding a chocolate paste made by 
pouring four tablespoons water over a scant half teaspoon powdered 
cinnamon, letting stand half an hour, then straining over four heap- 
ing tablespoons grated chocolate and mixing together. This spicing 



mi 



PASTRY. 



of chocolate is nice in any recipes where chocolate is used. After 
adding to hot syrup, stir a moment, strain, and when cold, add half 
teaspoon vanilla extract and juice of one lemon (about half a gill). 
Freeze as directed in Ices, adding the Meringue For Ices, made of 
white of one egg, on page 407 ; and although only white of one egg 
is taken where three pints of water is used in making the syrup, it 
is not too much for a quart of water, as above. The syrup, when 
cooked, should be reduced to about two thirds of the water and su- 
gar used, making in this recipe one quart syrup. This rule applies 
to all Ices made With Syrup which is by far the better way of mak- 
ing them, giving a firm, smooth, delicious ice, and to the syrup one 
can add juice of any fruit or any other flavoring used in Ice-creams, 
and the above way of serving is very nice. 

Currant Tarts. — Take one cup cleanly-picked currants, and a 
cup each granulated sugar and finely chopped lemon peel; add fla- 
voring of ground ginger and cinnamon and mix all well together. 
Take enough scraps of any paste and roll out quarter inch thick, 
then cut in pieces two inches square and put a teaspoon of the above 
preparation in center of each piece, pull over the edges, allowing 
them to lap a little in center, flatten with the hand and turn them 
over, folded part down. Then roll out with rolling pin until the 
currants, peel, etc., break through. Place on baking pans, make a 
few cuts across top with a knife, wash with milk, or milk and egg, 
dust with sugar and bake nice brown in hot oven. For the real 
English Banbury Cake, add to above ingredients fresh butter enough 
to form the whole into nice paste. Take the best Puff Paste, roll 
out and cut as above and place a piece of the mixture in center of 
each ; take up two corners, diagonally opposite, press together, and 
then with palm of hand press them down flat. This makes the 
pieces oval in shape and leaves two ends which are folded together 
at liberty to rise ; wash the part that is not folded with water and 
sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake in slow oven. 

Custard Tarts. — Prepare shells as in Fanchonettes ; remove 
bread, and place in each a teaspoon red currant, or any jelly or jam ; 
cover this with a custard made as follows : Beat four eggs, add three- 
fourths pint milk, two tablespoons butter, creamed, four tablespoons 
sugar and three dessertspoons flour, mixed smooth with water. 
Heat to boiling point, or until it thickens, and flavor as liked. Must 
be cooled before pouring over the jelly ; cover the tarts with merin- 
gue, raised in cone-like form, sprinkling over a little pinch sugar. 
Or this custard may be simply stirred together, and poured into 
shells before baking them, and bake twenty minutes, thus cooking 
all together, omitting jelly at bottom, but covering with the merin- 
gue. For Rice Tarts, cook two bay leaves or rind of half a lemon 
in pint milk ; strain, add three ounces ground rice, or rice flour, 
cook fifteen minutes, take ofi" fire, and add a well-beaten mixture of 



PASTRY. 085 

three tablespoons butter, half cup sugar and five or six eggs ; when 
cold, fill some paste-lined patty-pans with it, strew over a few dried 
currants and bake twenty-five minutes in moderate oven. For Maca- 
roon Tarts, line patty-pans with paste and make a custard of a 
quarter pint cream, four yolks of eggs, one tablespoon flour, four 
of sugar, three macaroons, crumbled, grated peel of one lemon, a 
little citron cut fine and little orange flower water. Heat the other 
ingredients, add the flour, mixed smoothly with a little water, boil 
sufficient to cook the flour, then take from fire a few minutes and 
stir in the beaten yolks of eggs, and set in pan of hot water till eggs 
seem done. After putting in patty-pans, bake until paste is done, 
then ornament tops with chopped almonds or cover with meringue, 
or not, as liked. For Jelhj Tarts, fill Patty Shells with jelly and 
serve either with or without the meringue. 

Gutter Tarts. — Line small patty-pans with rich paste and fill 
with red or black currants, raspberries or any fruit at hand, heaping 
high in center ; add a little powdered sugar to each, wet edge of paste 
with water, and put on a top crust about an eighth of inch thick ; 
after trimming the edges, with the thumb press the paste around the 
base of the fruit, about half an inch from edge of patty-pan, press- 
ing hard enough to all but break the paste and so as to push the 
fruit up in a cone in center ; wash them with water and bake. The 
object of pressing the paste so thin around base of fruit, is that the 
juice may break through the paste in baking and run around the 
groove or gutter formed by pressing the paste, which has a rich and 
pretty effect when baked, and gives the tarts their name. 

Lemon Tarts. — Mix juice and grated rind of one lemon with 
cup sugar and beaten yolk of an egg. Add half cup cold water into 
v/hich has been stirred a heaping teaspoon corn-starch. Set pan in 
boiling water and cook till it becomes a clear jelly. If wanted richer 
add to above, the juice and rind of another lemon, three more yolks 
of eggs, teaspoon butter and one more of corn-starch. Let cool and 
fill Patty Shells with the mixture covering with meringue. Or for 
Lemon Butter, put four rounded tablespoons soft butter, two cups 
sugar and six eggs well beaten together in a custard kettle, stir al- 
most constantly, add juice of three lemons and grated rind of two, 
and cook to consistency of honey. Pack in jars to use as wanted, 
and it will keep two or three months. To use, fill in any baked 
tart-shells and put in oven till mixture is hot. Or line patty-pans 
with the Sweet Paste, fill two-thirds full with the mixture adding a 
few poU'uded almonds, candied orange or lemon peel or grated Maca- 
roons if liked, and bake in moderate oven about fifteen minutes. In 
either case they may be covered with a meringue when baked, and 
returned to oven and delicately browned. For Orange Tarts^rxxok^ 
as Lemon Butter using only third as much sugar and grated rind 
^nd juiee of one large orange, instead of the lemons. Cook till like 



636 PASTRY. 

melted cheese, then take off fire and beat a minute or two with an 
egg-beater ; or a mixed preparation is as follows ; cup and a half 
sugar, grated rind and juice of two large oranges, juice of two lem- 
ons, two tablespoons butter, three yolks and one whole egg added 
last. Use as in either way in Lemon Tarts, or spread cold between 
layers of cake. In baking the tarts, it is sometimes necessary to 
cover with paper or place a pan above them on upper grate. 

Prune Tarts. — Scald prunes, remove stones, take out kernels 
and put latter into a little cranberry juice with the prunes and sugar ; 
simmer till tender, and when cold fill any shells. 

Raisin Tarts. — Heaping coffee-cup stoned and chopped raisins, 
two small cups powdered sugar, grated rind and juice of two lemons. 
Put all together in bowl and set in tea-kettle till sugar is dissolved ; 
when cool fill Patty Shells. 

Raspberry Tarts. — Prepare Cut Shells, and glaze with sugar 
boiled till it threads, sprinkling pounded loaf sugar over also. Boil 
more sugar, adding very little water, and the sugar left from glaze 
until it almost candies, and mash and stir in about a third of the 
raspberries to be used ; skim, cook five or ten minutes, remove from 
fire and let syrup cool. Fill the shells with fresh raspberries, cover 
with the cool syrup and serve. Strawberry or Currant Tarts made 
same. Or when the shells are nearly or quite done take from oven 
and ice, returning to oven a moment or two to set the icing before 
filling. Whipped cream may be served over fruit instead of syrup. 

Strawberry Vol-au- Vent. — Make a Vol-au-Vent case as illus- 
trated in Tart Shells only not quite so large as one for Chicken or 
Oyster Fricassee. When nearly done, use Pastry Frosting as directed. 
When done, remove the interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment 
of sei;ying, fill it with strawberries, which should be nicely stemmed 
and sweetened. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the top 
and serve. Or the paste may be rolled to about one and a half inches 
thick, and cut out with a large fluted cutter ; bake in quick oven, 
and brush as above, or with Pastry Glaze. Always detach the cover, 
made as directed in Tart Shells, as soon as baked, and when care- 
fully removing the crumb, if the edges of Vol-au-Vent look thin in 
places, cover with small flakes from inside, put on with white of an 
egg. This precaution is necessaryto prevent the fruit (or fricassee) 
from bursting the case. If stewed fruit is used, after cooking it, boil 
the syrup till quite thick and add to fruit ; fill the Vol-au-Vent 
with this, sprinkle over a little powdered sugar and return to oven 
to glaze, or use the hot salamander. Any fruit may be used. 

Cannelons. — Roll Puff Paste very thin, and cut into pieces of 
equal size, about two inches wide and eight long ; place upon each 
piece a spoonful of jam, wet edges with white of egg, and fold paste 




PASTRY. 637 

over twice ; slightly press edges together, that jam maj- not escape 
iu frying, and when all are prepared, fry in smoking lard until a nice 
brown, setting in oven a few minutes, that the paste may be thor- 
oughly done. Dish on a napkin, sprinkle sifted sugar over and 
serve. Very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, 
such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants ; they should be laid 
in the paste, plenty of granulated sugar sprinkled over, folded and 
fried as above. Or make a stiff paste with a quarter pound flour, 
half as much white sugar, half cup melted butter 
and tablespoon grated lemon peel or essence lem- 
on ; roll rather thin ; make little tubes of stiff 
paper, about three inches long by one in diameter, 
butter the outside well and wrap each in some of the paste, close 
neatly on one side, and bake a few minutes in a quick oven ; when 
done and cooled a little, take out the card and fill with a jelly or 
marmalade, smoothing over open ends with knife dipped in water. 

Cheese-cakes. — Cook a cup each sweet and sour milk in custard 
kettle until it curds ; rub the curd through sieve and add to it a cup 
sugar beaten with yolks of four eggs, a pinch of salt and the juice 
and grated rind of a lemon, and a tablespoon melted butter is_ some- 
times added. Line patty-pans with Puff Paste rolled very thin, put 
tablespoon of above mixture in each and bake fifteen or twenty min- 
utes in moderate oven. Let cool in the pans before removing. Nice 
for dessert, luncheon or supper. 

Plum Cobbler. — Take quart flour, four tablespoons melted lard, 
half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder ; mix as for bis- 
cuit, with either sweet milk or water, roll thin, and line a pudding 
dish, about two inches deep, or dripping-pan, nine by'eighteen inches ; 
mix three tablespoons flour and two of sugar together, and sprinkle 
over crust ; then pour in three pints canned damson plums, and 
sprinkle over them one coffee-cup sugar ; wet edges with a little flour 
and water mixed, put on upper crust, press edges together, make two 
openings by cutting two incisions at right angles an inch in length, 
and bake in quick oven half an hour. Any kind of fresh or canned 
fruit, can be used same way, adding with fresh fruit, cold water to 
half fill the dish, after fruit Is put in. A Quaker Paste may be used, 
rolling twice as thick as for ordinary pies, and some prefer to use 
only an upper crust, and for Peach Cobbler pare and halve freestones, 
but only pare and gash clings, leaving in the stones, and sweeten if 
necessary. For Apple Cobbler, pare and quarter moderately tart 
apples and finish as above. For Berry Cobbler., line the deep dish 
with a Graham Paste, rolled as above, fill with any berries, sweeten, 
cover with crust and bake. Some prick upper crust as well as cut 
the slits as in Plum Cobbler. Use no water in either berry cobbler 
or Cherry Cobbler which is made as the former. 



6f5S PASTRY. 

Fanchonettes. — Line patty-pans with a paste, place a piece of 
bread in each and bake in a cool oven ; when baked, remove bread 
and place an almond macaroon in each and cover the macaroon with 
half quince and half red currant jelly. Have paper cone, (same as 
used in Ornamental Icing) filled with meringue and drop a spoonful 
in center on jelly ; then from the paper cone drop a small cone-shaped 
pile of meringue on the center of what is already on the jelly ; then 
drop five or six around it. This will give a circle of cones with one 
in center; the cones will not look well if too small; they should be 
as large as a twenty-five cent piece and at least one inch in height ; 
put tnem in oven just to color. When cold drop just a little red 
currant jelly on the point of each cone. This is one of the prettiest 
of fancy pastry dishes, and is an elegant ornament. 

Almond Flowers. — Roll Puff Paste out quarter inch thick, and 
with a round fluted cutter, two and a half or three inches in diameter, 
cut out the number of pieces required. Work rest of paste up again, 
roll it out, and with a smaller cutter cut out pieces an inch in diam- 
eter. Brush larger pieces over with white of an egg, and place one 
of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch and cut almonds into strips 
lengthwise ; press them slanting into paste closely around smaller 
circles, sift over powdered sugar and bake twenty minutes. Garnish 
between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in center 
of top a little strawberry jam ; pile high on dish and serve. To make 
Almoiul Tablets^ roll Puff Paste very thin and cut with the pastry 
jagger into strips three inches and a half long, and an inch and a 
half wide. Spread half of them with a thin tilmy layer of jam or 
marmalade, (not jelly) lay on each a strip without jam and bake in 
quick oven. When well risen and brown take out, brush with Pastry 
Frosting as directed, sprinkle chopped almonds over and return to 
oven till frosting is well set, and almonds just colored. Serve hot 
or cold on napkin, piled log-cabin fashion. 

Rlssolettes. — Roll out very thin, about as thick as a fifty-cent 
piece, any trimmings of Puff Paste ; put about half tablespoon mar- 
malade or jam on it, in places about an inch apart, wet lightly round 
each, and place a piece of paste over all ; take a small round cutter 
an inch and a half in diameter and press round the part where the 
marmalade or jam is with the thick part of the cutter ; cut them out 
with a cutter a size larger, lay on baking tin, brush pver with white 
of egg ; add the inch circles as in Almond Flowers and finish in 
same way, omitting the almonds. Serve in pyramidal form. 

Preserve Sandwiches. — Roll Puff Paste out thin and place in a 
square baking pan, cut to fit, and sprer.d with peach, green-gage or 
any preserve ; place over this another thin layer of paste, press edges 
well together and lightly mark the top crossioise in lines one inch 
apart, and lengthwise two inches apart, to show where to cut wh«a 



PASTRY. 



689 




done. Bake half an hour and just before done use Pastry 
Frosting as directed and brown in oven. 
When cold, cut off in the two-inch lengths, 
arrange in a circle overlapping each other, 
as illustrated and serve with whipped cream 

^^^_ in center. For Ras2)herry ISandvnches, take a 

Preserve Sandwiched plecc of Puff Pastc, roll It out again a quarter 
inch thick and fold it over evenly like a sheet of paper. Roll this 
out an eighth of an inch in thickness and about twelve inches in 
width ; then roll up in a roll, the same as a sheet of paper, two inches 
or two and a half inches, in diameter ; when rolled up wet the edge 
so that it will not unfold ; press it flat until reduced to about three- 
fourths of an inch in thickness ; with a sharp knife cut ofif slices a 
quarter inch thick, lay these on the pan, cut part down, giving them 
room to rise, and bake them. When done frost as above, return to 
oven or hold hot salamander over them ; then spread on raspberry jam 
or jelly, and sticktwo togetlier, making a pretty and delicious dish. 

Orange Short-cake.— One quart flour, two tablespoons butter, 
two teaspoons baking powder thoroughly mixed with the flour; mix 
with cold water, not very stiff, work as little as possible, bake, split 
open, and lay sliced oranges between ; cut in squares and serve with 
pudding sauce. Berries may be used instead of oranges. 

■ Peach Short-cake.— Bake three sheets of sponge-cake as for 
jelly cake ; cut peaches in thin slices and sprinkle with sugar a few 
minutes before using, keeping closely covered ; prepare cream by 
whipping, sweetening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired ; put 
layers of peaches between the sheets of cake, and also on top, and 
pour the cream over each layer and over the top. Strawherry and 
Raspberry Short-cake made same way. Or, instead of the whipped 
cream, spread a meringue over each layer of fruit, allowing white of 
one egg for each layer. 

Strawberry Short-cake.— Tvfo heaping teaspoons baking powder 
sifted into one quart flour, scant half cup butter, two tablespoons 
sugar, salt, scant pint cold sweet milk, or water, to make a soft dough ; 
roll out almost as thin as pie crust, place one layer in baking pan, 
and spread with very little butter, upon which sprinkle some flour, 
then add another layer of crust and spread as before, and so on un- 
til crust is all used. This makes four layers in pan fourteen inches 
1by seven. Bake about fifteen minutes in quick oven, turn out up- 
side down, take off top layer (the bottom when baking), place on a 
dish, spread plentifully with strawberries, not mashed, previously 
sweetened with pulverized sugar, place layer upon layer, treating 
each in same way, put cake in oven a few minutes, and serve 
warm with sugar and criam. The secret of having light dough is 
to handle it as little and mix it as quickly as possible. Short-cake 



640 PASTRY. 

is delicious covered with whipped cream or a meringue. For Sara- 
toga Short-cake, which is very elegant, bake sponge-cake in three or 
four layers, or cut the sheet obtained from baker to fit the platter, 
and build by placing on each layer or sheet, a layer of strawberries 
prepared as above, and covering with custard, previously made as 
follows : Heat pint milk with half cup sugar to almost boiling, then 
stir in well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and stir until it begins to 
thicken ; let cool and flavor with vanilla or almond extract. May 
be handsomely finished by placing layer of berries on top, covered 
with a meringue of the whites of eggs ; or leave off the berries and 
whip into the meringue enough bright jelly to color nicely and heap 
on top. Or, if wanted served individually, line paper cases with 
strips of sponge-cake cut to fit the sides, then fit in a bottom piece 
and fill with the following preparation. Mash 
quart strawberries with two cups sugar and rub 

through sieve ; dissolve one and a half ounces gel- 

atine in a cup milk, set where it will warm gradu- sarawga shon-cake. 
ally ; whip three pints thick sweet cream, to a froth, then whip in 
dissolved gelatine, add strawberry pulp, and when partially stiffened 
fill the prepared cases, cover each with a layer of strawberries, care- 
fully setting each berry on end, and sprinkle powdered sugar over. 
Put away in cool place until ready to serve. The above quantity 
will fill fifty cases, and may be served in Patty Shells or Vol-au-vents 
instead of the cases, and with much less trouble. The flavor ol 
strawberries is much improved by mixing with each quart berries 
before sprinkling with sugar, two or three oranges, cut into bits 
about the size of berries, or simply adding the orange juice. 




PICKLES. 641 



PICKLES. 



In making pickles use none but the best cider vinegar, and boil 
in porcelain kettle — never in metal. A lump of alum size of small 
nutmeg, to gallon of cucumbers, dissolved and added to the vinegar 
when scalding the pickles the first time, renders them crisp and ten- 
der, but too much is injurious. Keep in a dry, cool cellar, in glass 
or stone jars; if in latter look at them frequently and remove all 
soft" ones ; if white specks appear in vinegar, drain off and scald, 
adding a liberal handful sugar to each gallon, and pour again over 
pickles ; bits of horse-radish and a few cloves assist in preserving 
the life of vinegar. If put aAvay in large stone jars, invert a saucer 
over top of pickles, to keep them well under the vinegar. The nicest 
way to put up pickles of all kinds is in bottles or in self-sealing glass 
cans, sealing while hot, and keeping in a cool, dark place. When 
porcelain-lined tops are not used always grease inside of can lids, as 
it prevents the moisture from adhering to, and rusting them. For 
the bottles take old pickle bottles with corks, or wide-mouthed bot- 
tles without covers. Have ready cloth covers cut round to fit over 
mouth of bottle, sealing-wax and strips of muslin as wide as tape 
for tying. Many think that mustard seed improves pickles, espec- 
ially Chopped, Florida and Mangoes, but use it, as well as horse- 
radish and cloves, sparingly. For Pickles in Brine, never put them 
in any thing that has held any kind of grease, but use an oaken tub 
or cask, keep them well under, and have more salt than will dissolve, 
so that there will always be plenty at bottom of cask, and never let 
them freeze. The brine should be strong enough to bear an egg ; 
make it in proportion of a heaping pint of coarse salt to a gallon of 



642 PICKLES. 

water. It is better to err in using too much salt, as this may be 
corrected by letting pickles soak longer in water when wanted, add- 
ing weak vinegar at first, then draining and adding strong vinegar ; 
but if not sufficiently salted the pickles will be insipid. In making 
any pickles by first placing in salt overnight or longer, use coarse 
salt, and test by tasting pickles before putting on vinegar, as they 
should be of a pleasant saltness ; if not salt enough, add more salt 
and allow them to stand until they have acquired the proper flavor ; 
if too salt, cover with weak vinegar, and let stand for two or three 
days, drain, adding strong vinegar, either hot or cold according to 
recipes, and finish as directed. In scalding cucumber pickles, to 
green them, some use cabbage orgrape leaves, covering bottom, sides 
and top of kettle. A medium spicing for a quart of pickles is a 
level teaspooneach pepper-corns, (whole black peppers), celery seed 
and allspice, tablespoon broken stick cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves, 
mustard seed, and grated horse-radish, and apiece of ginger root, an 
inch long. If cayenne pepper is used instead of wliole peppers, an 
eighth of a teaspoon is enough. A better substitute for pepper-corns 
is garden-peppers cut in rings, in proportion of two rings of green 
and one of red without seeds, or a level teaspoon, when finely 
chopped, to a quart of pickles. These proportions may be increased 
or decreased to suit the taste, taking care not to put in so much of 
any one as to make its flavor predominate. Ginger is the most 
wholesome of the spices. Cloves are the strongest, mace next, then 
allspice and cinnamon, and, of course, less of the stronger should 
be used. Pickles are not famous for wholesome qualities, even when 
made with the greatest care, but if they must be eaten, it is best to 
make them at home. Those sold in market are often colored a beau- 
tiful green with sulphate of copper, which is a deadly poison, or are 
cooked in brass or copper vessels, which produces the same result 
in an indirect way. Scalding or parboiling articles to be pickled 
makes them absorb the vinegar more easily, but does not add to 
their crispness. Before putting them in vinegar, after parboiling, 
they should be cold audi perfectly dry. Always use strong vinegar, 
or the pickles will be insipid, and it should be scalding hot when 
poured on, as raw vinegar becomes ropy and does not keep well. As 
heating v/eakens it, vinegar for pickles should be very strong, and 
should only be brought to hoiling pomt, and immediatelypoured on 
pickles. Keep pickles from the air, and when put away in stone 



PICKLES. 643 

jars, if hot vinegar is used, comr^ hut do not tie down closely till 
cold; a good covering is first a cloth, then an oil-cloth cover tied 
over jar; always see that the vinegar is at least two inches over top 
of the pickles. A dry wooden spoon or ladle should be used in 
handling pickles, and is the only kind that should touch pickles in 
jars. If the vinegar loses its strength it should be replaced by fresh, 
poured over scalding hot. Some keep pickles from molding by plac- 
ing horse-radish or grape leaves over them ; this also gives a nice 
flavor. Clove of Garlic, given in recipes, is a piece size of small bean. 



PicJcled A])])les. — Procure green apples size of walnuts and 
cook till tender over slow fire in pan with thick layer of vine leaves 
on bottom. Pare with sharp knife, put in same water first cooked 
in, cover closely and leave till a nice green ; drain in colander till 
cold, put in jars with some mace and a clove or two of garlic, accord- 
ing to quantity apples, cover with vinegar and tie down as directed. 

Pickled ArticJiolces. — Hub off outer skin with a coarse towel, 
and lay in saltwater for a day, drain and pour over them cold spiced 
vinegar, adding a teaspoon horse-radish to each jar. Or boil the ar- 
tichokes in strong salt and water two or three minutelS, drain on a 
hair sieve and when cold, place in jars. Boil as much vinegar as will 
cover them with a blade or two of mace, some root ginger, and a 
nutmeg grated fine. Pour it over hot, seal and put away for use. 

Pickled BarTjerries. — Leave the berries on stems, lay in stone 
jar and fill with cold vinegar. Good pickles, and nice for garnishing 

Pickled Beans. — Pick green beans of best variety when young 
and tender, string, and place in kettle to boil, with salt to taste, until 
they can be pierced with a fork ; drain through colander, put in stone 
jar, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, and cover with strong cider vine- 
gar ;_ sugar may be added if desired. Or gather young beans and 
put in strong brine of salt and water ; when turning yellow, which 
will be in a day or two, take out and wipe dry. Boil vinegar, adding 
two ounces pepper and one ounce each ginger and mace to each 
quart, and pour over the beans. A small bit of alum, or teaspoon 
soda will bring back the color. Cover to keep in steam, reboil vine- 
ga?r next day and pour over hot as before. Or string, wash and cook 
till tender, take off, cool, and salt as if to use fresh ; pack away in a 
stone jar or nice tub, add a weight, then prepare a weak brine and 
pour over ; cover, and in a few weeks they will be sour. 

Pickled Beets. — Select fine red beets and be careful to clean 
without bruising the skin, or they will lose much of their color and 



644 PICKLES. 

SAveetness in cooking. Boil two hours and when cold rub off skin 
and place whole in jar, (some slice them but they are not as fresh 
Avhen served) ; cover with vinegar, first boiled with spices in propor- 
tion of half an ounce each cloves, pepper-corns, mace and ginger to 
each pint, adding when cold another pint ; cover closely and they 
will be ready for use next day, Avhen they can be sliced as wanted. 
Or take a half cup sugar to each pint vinegar, flavoring to taste with 
cinnamon and cloves, boil and pour over beets and repeat this sev- 
eral days. Before serving cut the slices into stars, leaves or any 
shapes fancied, and a very ornamental dish results. If white beets 
are pickled separately, the slices in same shapes are a nice addition, 
alternated with the red. 

Pickled Cabbage. — Shave firm white cabbage into wooden or 
earthen vessel, sprinkling in handful salt to each cabbage, and let 
stand overnight ; then drain off brine, pressing cabbage well and 
pack in earthen jars in laj^ers with half cup mustard seed to each 
head, sprinkled through ; fill ujd with cold vinegar, cover closely 
and keep in cool dark place. Or quarter small solid heads, and 
boil in weak salt water until they can be pierced through with 
a straw ; then lay on dishes and put in sun an hour or two to drain 
and bleach. Put in jar, pour over enough weak vinegar to cover 
with a teaspoon tumeric stirred in, and let stand one week. Pour 
off and fill jar with best cider vinegar, in which is mixed one cup 
ground mustard, half cup mustard seed, and a little sugar ; put in 
also a few spices of different kinds in a little bag. Cover closely ; 
ready for use in a few days and will come out a bright yellow. 
Pickled Cauliflower or Onions prepared same way. For Pickled 
Red Cabbage, procure nice heads of red or purple cabbage, pull off 
loose leaves, slice fine, pack in a stone jar, sprinkle through 
well with salt and let stand twenty-four hours. Prepare vinegar as 
follows : To a gallon, add an ounce each mace and pepper corns, 
and a little mustard seed. Drain cabbage, put back in jar, scald 
vinegar and spices, and pour over, repeating the scalding two or 
three times, and cover jar very tight. When done, the cabbage will 
be a handsome red color, very ornamental. It will be fit for use in 
a week or two, if kept very long the cabbage is liable to get soft and 
discolored. For this reason only a small quantity should be made 
at a time. White cabbage may be pickled same. Some spice 
the vinegar with three pieces root ginger, a pod red pepper, 
and quarter ounce cloves to each quarts adding also an onion 
if liked. A little grated horse-radish and celery seed may be 
mixed with the cabbage when put back in jar if desired. Or 
With Peppers, chop fine two -thirds firm red cabbage and one- 
third green peppers, removing seeds of latter. Pour a weak 
brine over one gallon of the mixture, let stand twenty-four hours, 
drain well and add tablespoon each whole cloves and ground cinna- 
mon, half cup black mustard seed and a few pepper-corns. Mix well, 



PICKLES. 645 



put in stone jar and pour over boiling vinegar to cover, to which a 
It Je sugar may have been added, if wished. Some do not soak in 
the brine, but add two tablespoons of salt with the spices. Keep in 
cool place; pieces of cauliflower added assume a fine color For 
Imitation ricUes, chop fine white cabbage and cold boiled beets • to 
one quart each, take cup each sugar and grated horse-radish, table- 
spoon salt and teaspoon black pepper; cover with cold vinegar and 
tie up closely^ Some add a pinch cayenne and any spices wished. 
J^orAA^7^e/^^c^'^e5, takeoff the large outside leaves of a head of 
white cabbage; shce the inside very fine and wrap up in the large 
leaves, tying securely with twine. Boil till tender, remove leav?s 
and drain cabbage very dry; boil quart vinegar with cup sugar, a 
tew pepper-corns and allspice fifteen minutes ; place cabbage in iar 
pour hot vinegar over it, and put on a weight to keep it well under.' 

_ Pickled Carrots.— ^cald small carrots, and rub and wash off" the 
skin ; parboil in salted water, drain, and put in jar. Boil vinegar 
enough to cover, and let stand twenty-four hours. Then drain off 
vinegar and boil it again. Put one bay leaf and three or four cloves 
with carrots, add a little salt to the boiling vinegar, pour over car- 
rots again and cover as in general directions. These pickled car- 
rots are a&^good as pickled beets, care being taken not to get them 
cooked soft when parboiling, and make a variety in color. 

.Pickled Cauliflower.— Choose fine ones and good size, cut awav 
all leaves, and pull away the flowers by bunches ; soak in brine that 
will float an egg, for two days, drain, put in bottles with whole black 
pepper, allspice, and stick cinnamon ; boil vinegar, and with it mix 
mustard smoothly, a little at a time till just thick enough to run 
into the jars, pour over the cold cauliflower and seal while hot An 
equal quantity or less of small white onions, prepared as directed 
in recipe for Pickled Onions, may be added before the vinegar is 
poured over. Or for twelve heads cauliflower take five quarts vine- 
gar, five cups brown sugar, six eggs, one bottle French mustard, 
two tablespoons ginger, a little garlic, two green peppers, one-half 
teaspoon cayenne butter size of an egg, one ounce pulverized tur- 
meric. _ Beat well together the eggs, sugar, mustard, ginger, and 
turmeric then boil in vinegar, with garlic and peppers, ten minutes. 
Boil cauliflower m salt water until tender, place carefuRv in iar and 
pour over boihng-hot mixture. Some add tablespoon celery seed. 

Pickled Celery. —S&\e the solid white roots of celery, that are 
usually thrown away, trim, cut in thick slices, boil in salted water 
about ten minutes, dram, and put in jar. Boil vinegar enough to 
coyer, with a tablespoon whole pepper-corns and pour over celerv 
Alter stancimg a day, drain oflT vinegar, mix a little mustard and 
cayenne with it and pour back into jar. This somewhat resembles 
chowchow, and other kinds of pickles can be added. Close -the jar 



646 PICKLES. 

tightly. For Pickled Celery loith Cabhage, put together in porce- 
lain-lined kettle two quarts finely chopped white cabbage, two quarts 
chopped celery three quarts vinegar, half ounce each crushed 
white ginger root and turmeric, fourth pound white mustard seed, 
two tablespoons salt, five of sugar ; cook slowl}^ several hours until 
cabbage and celery are tender, put in jar and cover closely. 

Pickled Cherries. — Leave stems on fine red, not too ripe, cherries, 
and for each quart take a pint vinegar and cup sugar; boil these 
together ten minutes, skim, and when cold pour over the cherries, 
packed in jar. Cover closely. If the fruit is nice the pickles will 
be very handsome, and are nice for garnishing. 

Pickled Eggs. — Boil the eggs ten or fifteen minutes, dip in cold 
water, take off shells and prepare the vinegar by boiling with each 
quart, a half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pepper and ginger 
tied in a bag ; put eggs in jar, pour boiling vinegar over, put in bag 
of spices, and when cold tie down to exclude the air. The above 
will pickle about sixteen eggs. Some spice with two teaspoons 
each allspice, cinnamon and mace to each quart vinegar, and dilute 
Avith pint water. Eggs are also nice pickled with beets, or in the 
vinegar from them, and are not only always relishable but ornamen- 
tal as well, and nice for garnishing. 

Pickled Gherkins. — Procure small cucumbers, from an inch and 
a half to two inches long and put them in salt and water for 
three or four days ; then take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put 
in stone jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, ten minutes, with 
spices and pepper in proportion of one ounce bruised ginger, one- 
half ounce pepper-corns, one-fourth ounce whole allspice, four cloves, 
and two blades of mace, to each quart vinegar, adding also a little 
horseradish ; pour this boiling hot over the gherkins, cover with 
grape leaves, and put a plate over the jar, which set overnight near 
the fire. Next day drain off" the vinegar, boil again and pour it hot 
over them. Cover with fresh leaves and when quite cold tie down 
with oil-cloth and in a month or two pickles will be ready for use. 

Pickled Grapes. — Cut bunches when hardly ripe and put in jar 
with vine leaves between each layer of grapes until jar is filled ; then 
take as much water as Avill cover grapes and leaves, and add salt till 
strong enough to bear an egg ; when it boils, skim, strain through 
flannel bag and let stand to settle ; strain a second time and pour 
upon" the grapes, which must be well covered; fill jar with vine 
leaves, tie over a double cloth, set a plate upon it and stand two 
days ; then take off" the cloth, pour away the brine, take out leaves 
and grapes, and lay them between two cloths to dry ; boil two quarts 
vinegar with one of water, and pound sugar, and skim very clean ; 
let stand till cold. Wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay fresh vine 
leaves at the bottom, between every bunch grapes and on top; 



PICKLES. 647 

strain the pickle on the grapes, filling the jar ; tie a thin piece of 
board, in flannel, lay it on the grapes to keep them under the pickle 
and tie down closely with cloth and paper. 

Pickled Lemons. — Cut the lemons lengthwise, quartering them, 
but not through the rind at the ends nor quite through the pulp, and 
fill the slits with salt ; put where they will dry, either in the hot sun 
or by the stove ; Avhen perfectly dried, spice vinegar, enough to cover 
them, with cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger root, and a little mus- 
tard seed, adding onion if liked ; pour it boiling hot over the lem- 
ons ; keep a year before using, when they will be found excellent ; 
they require more vinegar than other pickles, as the lemons will 
swell natural size. Or peel the lemons, slit each down three times, 
but do not divide them, and rub salt well into the incisions ; place 
them in a pan, where they must remain for a week ; turn every 
other day, then put them near the fire until the salt has become 
perfectly dry; arrange them in a jar, pour over sufficient boiling 
vinegar to cover them, spiced as above or to taste ; tie down closely 
and they will be ready for use in about nine months. 

Pickled Limes. — Cut limes open, fill with salt and lay in the sun 
to dry. In two weeks wash off" salt and put them in a jar in alter- 
nate layers, with the following spices : Allspice, cloves, white mus- 
tard seed and sliced horse-radish ; fill up jar with hot vinegar, and 
let stand four weeks, when they will be ready lor use. 

• Pickled Ndsturtiums. — It is best to gather the green seeds on a 
dry day. This is also necessary in picking any vegetables for pickling. 
Some put seeds in vinegar for a day, then drain, boil the vinegar, 
adding a little salt, a few pepper-corns, a small bit of green ginger 
root, or mace and a pinch of sugar. Pour over the seeds boiling hot, 
and cork tightly. Or soak as gathered for twenty-four hours, drain, 
l)lace in cold vinegar and when all wished are thus prepared, drain, 
and cover with boiling vinegar, not spiced. Or if putting up a 
quantit}'', let soak in brine three days, drain and finish as above. 
Nasturtium pickles are a delicious relish with cold meat or raw oys- 
ters, and are an excellent substitute for capers in sauces. 

Pickled Onions. — Select small Silver-skin onions, remove 
with a knife all the outer-skins, so that each onion will be perfectly 
white and clean ; put into brine that will float an egg, for three days, 
drain, or dry with a cloth, place in jar, first a layer of onions three 
inches deep, then a sprinkling of horse-radish, cinnamon bark,cloves, 
and a little cayenne pepper; repeat until jar is filled, in proportion 
of half teaspoon cayenne pepper, two teaspoons each grated horse- 
radish and cloves, and four tablespoons cinnamon bark, to a gallon 
pickles ; bring vinegar to a boiling point, add brown sugar in pro- 
portion of a quart to a gallon of vinegar, and pour hot over onions. 
Some, after soaking, put in glass cans, adding spices, and small red 



648 PICKLES. 

peppers, or rings of large ones, fill with cold vinegar and seal ; put- 
ting tablespoon salad oil over top of each can will prevent onions turn- 
ing yellow. Do not cut onions so much in peeling that they will fall 
apart. Some scald spices with the vinegar instead of putting in lay- 
ers, while others like flavor of equal quantities white mustard, cor- 
iander and celery seed, allspice, and pepper-corns. If wanted very 
nice and white prepare as follows : Gather the onions, which should 
not be too small, when quite dry and ripe ; wipe off dirt, but do not 
pare ; make a strong brine of salt and water, put in the onions, 
change this, morning and night, for three days, and save the last 
brine. Take off the outside skin, and put onions in tin saucepan 
with equal quantities milk and the last brine ; add two tablespoons 
salt, put over fire, and constantly turn the onions about with a 
wooden skimmer, letting milk and water run through holes of skim- 
mer, but the onions must not boil, and in stirring be careful not to 
break them. Have ready a pan with a colander, into which turn 
the onions to drain, covering with a cloth to keep in steam. Place 
on a table an old cloth two or three times double ; put the onions 
on this when quite hot, covering closely Avith an old piece of blanket 
to keep in the steam ; let remain till next day, when they will be 
quite cold, and look yellow and shrivelled ; "take off the shrivelled 
skins, when they should be as white as snow, and put in jar. Make 
a pickle of vinegar and spices in proportion of an ounce each bruised 
ginger, allspice, Avhole black pepper, one grated nutmeg, quarter 
ounce mace, eight cloves and a teaspoon cayenne to two quarts 
vinegar ; boil and pour hot over the onions. Cover very closely to 
keep in all steam, and let stand over night. Put them into jars or 
bottles, cover with the spiced vinegar, put a tablespoon best olive 
oil on the top of each jar, tie down closely and let stand in a cool 
place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit for use. They 
should be beautifully white and crisp, without the least softness, 
and will keep good many months. Pickled Spanish Onions are 
prepared by cutting in thin slices ; put a layer in bottom of jar, 
sprinkle with salt and cayenne, then add another layer of onions, 
season as before, and so on until jar is full ; pour in sufficient vine- 
gar to cover the whole, and the pickle will be fit for use in a month. 

P.iclded Peaches. — Take those of full growth, but perfectly 
green. To a gallon of vinegar add half ounce each cloves, pepper- 
corns, sliced ginger, mustard seed and a little salt, boil and pour 
over the peaches scalding hot. Drain off vinegar from them several 
mornings, heat scalding hot, and pour over them. 

Pichled Plums. — Take plums before they are quite ripe, and 
13ut in saucepan with vinegar, salt water, fennel seed, and dill, as 
much of each as will impart a flavor to pickle ; when it boils put in 
plums, let boil again, then take off, let stand till cold, and put in jars. 



PICKLES. 649 

Pickled Radish Pods. — Pick off green seed-pods of radishes 
while tender and put in jars of salt and water. When enough have 
been gathered, drain off salt and water, boil it and pour hot upon 
the pods ; cover, let remain till cold, boil and pour over the pods 
again, and after that twice more ; then drain the pods dry and put 
back in jar. Boil enough good vinegar to cover them with a small 
piece of race ginger and some pepper-corns ; pour it hot over the 
pods and let stand till cold. Boil and repeat twice more. Tie down 
when cold and keep in a cool place. If enough is gathered at once 
for pickles, place in salt water overnight, then proceed as above. 

Pickled Tomatoes. — Wipe ripe, small, round plum tomatoes, 
very dry, taking care not to break skin, put in jar, or can, cover 
with cold vinegar adding small cheese-cloth bag filled with dozen or 
so each cloves and pepper-corns, cork tightly and cover with melt- 
ed sealing wax, or screw on cover, and put in Fruit Closet. 

Pickled Sweet- Corn. — Take the "nubbins" of early corn where 
there are too many forming on the stalk, while very small and ten- 
der. Trim neatly, and boil them five minutes in water slightly salted. 
Drain and put them in a jar. Boil good vinegar enough to cover 
and pour it boiling hot over the corn and let remain so until next 
day, drain and boil the vinegar again, adding a little salt. Place 
corn in jar and cover with vinegar when partially cold. Cork the 
jar and seal it. Any spices may be placed in jar, Avith a good sprink- 
ling of mustard seed ; and a bay leaf or two, and a few shallots may 
be boiled with vinegar. 

Pickled Walnuts. — Gather walnuts (or butternuts) when soft 
enough to be pierced by a large needle (in July) ; prick each well 
through, holding a cloth to avoid staining hands, cover with strong 
salt water, (a pint and a half salt to a gallon of water), let stand 
two or three days, changing brine every day ; then pour over them a 
brine made by dissolving salt in boiling water (let it get cold before 
using), let stand three days, renew brine and let stand three days 
more. Now drain and expose to sun for two or three days or until 
the nuts become black, or put in cold water for half a day, and pack 
in jars not quite full. The proportions are a hundred walnuts to 
each gallon vinegar. Boil vinegar eight minutes with cup sugar, three 
dozen each whole cloves and allspice, a dozen and a half pepper- 
corns and a ginger root if liked, some add a few shallots also and a 
dozen blades of mace. Pour the vinegar over walnuts scalding hot. 
In three days draw off vinegar, boil and pour over walnuts again 
while hot, and at end of three days repeat process. They will be 
fit to eat in a month, and will keep for years. Or gather and pierce 
the nuts as above, cover them with brine, allowing one and a half 
pounds salt to one gallon water, and let stand in cool place three 
weeks. Drain in colander, wash and wipe jars, return the walnuts. 



650 PICKLES. 

cover with best cider vinegar, and let stand one month ; take out. 
rinse and wipe jars, put in nuts and sprinkle Avith an ounce mustard 
seed. To as much fresh vinegar as will cover them, add one ounce 
each cloves, black pepper, and stick cinnamon, half an ounce each 
mace, and race ginger, and boil ten minutes. When cold pour over 
r— ^s, cover, seal and keep as above. 

Chopped Pickles. — Take a peck green tomatoes, wash clean, 
cu., aw^ay a small piece from each end, but do not pare them, slice 
and place in a large wooden bowl, chop fine, place in a crock and 
mix salt with them (half pint to a peck), let stand twenty-four 
hours, and drain thoroughly ; take twice or three times as much 
cabbage as chopped tomatoes, chop fine, mix salt in " same propor- 
tions add enough water to make moist, and let stand same time as 
tomatoes ; drain, place again in separate jars, cover each with cold 
weak vinegar ; after twenty-four hours drain cabbage well, pressing 
hard to extract all juice ; place tomatoes and the vinegar in a por- 
celain kettle and boil ten minutes, stirring all the time, pour out, 
and when cold, place in a towel and wring and press until perfectly 
dry ; now mix tomatoes and cabbage together, take a double hand- 
ful at a time, squeeze as tightly as possible, and place in a dry 
crock ; take stone jar in which they are to be pickled, place in it a 
layer of tomatoes and cabbage, scatter over chopped peppers, whole 
mustard seed, and grated or chopped horse-radish, then another 
layer of tomatoes and cabbage, next spice, and so on until jar is al- 
most full, occasionally sprinkHng with cayenne pepper; cover with 
strong cider vinegar, let stand overnight, drain off vinegar, boil, add- 
ino- a c'up sugar to each gallon and pour over pickles. Place a saucer 
or'pieco of broken china on the pickles to keep them under vine- 
gar. If a white scum rises, drain off vinegar, boil, skim, and pour 
hot over the pickles. Prepare mustard, peppers, and horse-radish, 
as follows and add to the pickles : Take three green or ripe garden 
peppers (four tablespoons when chopped), cut in two, place in salt 
water overnight, and next morning drain and chop quite fine : to two 
tablespoons mustard seed add saltspoon salt, pour on boiling water 
let stand fifteen minutes, drain; add also three or four tablespoons 
o-rated horse-radish. Tomatoes uiith Onions are excellent prepared 
same way. For Sliced Pickles, take cucumbers and onions, or to- 
matoes and onions, slice and prepare as above. Some add to the 
Chopped Pickles a dozen large green cucumbers, four large Silver- 
skin onions, two red peppers, two ounces celery seed and more 
horse-radish. For a very nice pickle called Ladies' Delight put eight 
ounces each chopped onions and apples, and two of chopped chillies, 
(cayenne pepper pods), in a jar. Boil pint vinegar with a large 
tablespoon salt, and pour this over, mix well, and when quite cold 
put it into smaller jars if preferred. To be eaten with cold meat. 
In the first recipe, the vinegar may be drained off", reheated and 
poured over the pickles three or four times as in Variety Pickles. 



PICKLES. 651 

Cucumher Pickles. — Take half bushel medium-sized, fresh cu- 
cumbers, picked and rinsed carefully as directed in Pickles in Brine ; 
pack close in stone jar, sprinkle over top one pint salt, pour over 
sufficient quantity boiling water to cover them, place a cloth over 
jar, and let stand until cold or overnight ; drain off water, and place 
pickles on stove in cold vinegar ; let come to a boil, take out, place 
in stone jar, and cover with either hot or cold fresh vinegar. They will 
be ready for use in a few days, and are excellent. It is an improve- 
ment to add a few spices, and a small quantity of sugar with boiling- 
hot vinegar, first using lump of alum, as in following recipe. For Flo7'- 
ida Pickles, select cucumbers about two inches long, prepare with salt 
and boiling water as above, when cold, drain, and place a gallon at 
a time on stove in enough cold weak vinegar to cover, to which a 
lump of alum, size of a small hickory nut (too much is injurious) has 
been added. Have on stove, in another kettle, a gallon very best 
cider vinegar, to which add half pint brown sugar or more if wished ; 
have bottles cleansed and in pan of water as on page 146; also have 
tin cup or small pan sealing-wax heated ; have spices prepared, on 
table, in separate dishes as follows : Green and red peppers 
soaked as in Chopped Pickles, then sliced in rings ; horse- 
radish roots washed, scraped, and cut in small pieces ; black 
and yellow mustard seed (or these may be left out^, prepared 
by sprinkling with salt and pouring on some boiling water, which 
let stand fifteen minutes and then draw off; stick cinnamon 
washed free from dust, and broken in pieces, a few cloves, and table- 
spoon celery seed. When pickles come to boiling point, take out 
and pack in bottles, mixing with them the spices, using cloves, 
horse-radish and mustard seed sparingly; put in a layer of pickles, 
then a layer of spices, shaking the bottle occasionally so as to pack 
tightly ; when full cover with the boiling-hot vinegar from the other 
kettle (using a bright funnel and handled coffee cup), filling up a 
second time in order to supply shrinkage, for pickles must ' e en- 
tirely covered with vinegar. Put in corks, which should fit very 
snugly, lift each bottle (wrap a towel around it to prevent burning 
the hands), and dip corked end into hot sealing-wax; proceed in 
this manner with each bottle, dipping each a second time into wax 
so that they may be perfectly secure. If corks seem too small, place 
them in boiling water before using ; if too large, pound the sides 
with a hammer. The tighter they fit in bottles the better. Glass 
cans, the tops or covers of which hate become defective, can be 
used by supplying them with corks, or using cloth covers, as di- 
rected in preface ; tying on one, then dipping in melted sealing-wax 
and quickly tying on another, dipping as above. Some even in 
using corks put on a cloth cover first, then the cork, finish- 
ing as directed. New glass cans with porcelain tops may of 
course be used as in Canning Fruit. Pickles thus bottled are 
far more wholesome than, and are really superior to the best 



652 PICKLES. 

brand of imported pickles, and by having materials in readiness, 
prepared as directed, the process is neither difficult nor tedious 
but it requires two persons to bottle them successfully. If the 
market is depended upon for the cucumbers, secure them as freshly 
'picked as possible and always with a short piece of stem attached^ 
as they will then keep more perfectly. For Pickles in Brine^ cover 
a bottom of a cask with common salt ; gather cucumbers every other 
day, early in morning or late in evening, as it does not injure the 
vines so much then as in the heat of the day, if of the Long Green vari- 
ety, those five or six inches in length may be used ; cut them with a lit- 
tle of the stem, carefully laying them in basket or pail so as not to 
bruise ; pour cold water over them and rinse, not wash them, being 
careful not to rub off the little black briers or prickers, or bruise 
them in any way ; this is important, as removing or bruising the 
briers causes the cucumbers to decay quickly, while if left on they 
may be kept perfectly sound and good any length of time. Lay them 
in prepared cask three or four inches deep, cover with salt, and re- 
peat the alternate layers until all are in ; pour in some water with first 
layer — after this the salt will make sufficient brine. Spread a cloth 
over them, then a board with a stone on it. When a new supply of 
cucumbers is to be added, remove stone, board and cloth, wash 
them very clean, and wipe every particle of scum from top of 
pickles and sides of cask ; throw away any soft ones, as they will 
spoil the rest ; put in fresh cucumbers, layer by layer, with salt to 
cover each layer in proportion of pint salt to each gallon cucumbers. 
Wlien cask is nearly full, cover with salt, tuck cloth closely around 
the edges, placing board and weight on top ; cover cask closely, and 
the pickles will be perfect for two or three years. The brine should 
be made strong enough so that there will always be salt in bottom 
of cask. Cucumbers must alwaj^s be put in salt as soon as picked 
from vines, for if they lie a day or two they will not keep. Do not 
be alarmed at the heavy scum that rises on them, but be careful to 
wasli all off the board and cloth. To prepare Pickled Cucumbers^ 
take off weight and board, carefully lift cloth with scum on it, wash 
stone, board and cloth clean, and wipe all scum off the cucumbers 
and sides of cask, take out as many as are wanted, return the cloth, 
board and weight, and cover closely. Place the cucumbers in a 
vessel large enough to hold two or three times as much water as 
there are pickles, cover with dold water (some use hot), and change 
the water each day for three days ; then place porcelain kettle on 
fire, half full of vinegar (if vinegar is very strong add half water), fill 
nearly full of cucumbers, the largest first and then the smaller ones, 
put in a lump of alum size of a nutmeg, and let come to a boil, stir- 
ring with wire or wooden spoon so as not to cut the cucumbers ; af- 
ter boiling one minute, skim out, place in stone jar, and continue un- 
til all are scalded, then pour cold vinegar over them. In two or 
three days, if the pickles are too salt, turn off vinegar and put on 



PICKLES. 653 

fresh, add a pint brown sugar to each two gallons pickles, a pod or 
two of red pepper or pinch cayenne, a very few cloves, and some 
pieces of cinnamon and horse-radish. The horse-radish prevents a 
white scum from rising. For Self-Made Pickles, put one gallon 
sorghum molasses in jar or barrel with two of water and let stand 
until it begins to ferment; then rinse and drain cucumbers, put 
them in the barrel, cover with a cloth and board with a weight on 
top, rinse off the cloth every time cucumbers are added. If the 
vinegar turns white add more molasses. These pickles will keep 
a year. Some use three gallons water to one of molasses and stir 
the pickles every day until ready for use. For Sliced Cuciiinber 
Pickles, peel and slice large, green cucumbers that would be suitable 
lot table, and if gathered from the garden, leave a piece of the cu- 
cumber on vine, as the latter will not be as much weakened and 
when the former are to be sliced for pickles, or used fresh, there is 
not the necessity for leaving on a portion of stem. Slice about one- 
fourth their bulk of onions ; place in a jar or crock, large enough to 
hold pickles when finished, a layer of sliced cucumbers, then a thin 
layer of onions, and so alternating, fill jar within an inch of top. 
Put two or three handfuls of salt on top of pickles, which will make 
their own brine._ Let stand twenty-four hours ; then squeeze the 
pickles out of brine, pack in dry fitone jar and just cover with vine- 
gar. Make a paste of eight teaspoons fine olive oil, two dessert- 
spoons ground mustard and one teaspoon white pepper; mix well 
together and put over top of pickles. The pickles will be ready for 
use in two days and will keep as long as desired. Or omit the 
onions, and after standing twenty-four hours drain off the liquor, 
pack in jars, a thick layer of salt and cucumbers alternately, tie 
down closely and when wanted take out quantity required, Wash 
them well in fresh water and dress with vinegar, pepper and oil. 

It often happens in putting up cucumber pickles that only a 
few can be gathered or bought at a time; these can be easily 
pickled as follows : Place in jar, sprinkle with salt, in proportion 
of pint salt to peck cucumbers, cover with boiling water, let stand 
twenty-four hours, drain, cover with fresh hot water; after another 
twenty-four hours, drain, place in jar, and cover with cold, not very 
strong vinegar ; continue to treat each lot in this manner, using two 
jars, one for scalding and the other as a final receptacle for pickles, 
until there is enough for pickling, when drain and cover with boil- 
ing cider vinegar, add spices, and in a few days they will be ready 
for use. Sugar may be added if wished. Always use fresh vinegar, 
either hot or cold, to pour over salted pickles that have been cooked 
in plain vinegar, or vinegar with a lump of alum in it. All cucum- 
bers and sour pickles kept in stone jars, can be made as good as 
new at any time, by draining off old vinegar, and pouring over fresh, 
boiling hot, adding a little sugar. It well repays one to do this late 
in the Winter. Cider vinegar is the only kind we have recommended, 



654 PICKLES. 

as it is the liest one can buy ; but the Economical Vinegar given in 
Kitchen, which is really a home-made cider vinegar is equally good, 
and has been thoroughly tested and ^'not found wanting." 

Bipe Cucumber Pickles. — Take twenty-four large cucumbers, 
ripe and sound, six white onions, four large red peppers ; pare and 
remove seeds from cucumbers, chop well, not too fine ; then chop 
onions and peppers fine, mix thoroughly with cup salt, and ounce 
white mustard and place in a muslin bag; drain twenty-four hours, 
remove to glass jars, cover with cold vinegar and seal. Will keep 
a long time and are excellent. 

French PicJcles. — Take one peck green tomatoes, six large on- 
ions sliced, mix through them one tea-cup salt, and let stand over 
night ; next day drain thoroughly, boil in one quart vinegar mixed 
with two quarts of water, for fifteen or twenty minutes, then take 
four quarts vinegar, two pounds brown sugar, half pound white 
mustard seed, two tablespoons ground allspice, and the same of cin- 
namon, cloves, ginger, and ground mustard and boil altogether fif- 
teen minutes, then put in jars and keep closely covered in dry, cool 
place. Or put the onions and tomatoes to drain after boiling while 
preparing the spiced vinegar, then put in jar and pour it over boil- 
ing hot. A teaspoon cayenne and six green peppers may be added 
if liked, and the onions may be chopped if preferred. Some prepare 
vinegar with one tablespoon turmeric, two of mustard and half 
ounce celery seed and one pound brown sugar. 

Higdon Pickles. — One dozen ripe cucumbers and one quart 
onions chopped quite fine ; put both in a cloth, squeeze all the water 
out, add four green peppers, and a little celery chopped ; mix all 
well together and season with salt, ground cinnamon and mustard, 
little salad oil, black and white mustard seed and a little sugar ; 
cover with cold vinegar. 

Martynia Pickles. — Gather the pods when green and tender ; 
wash, wipe dry and place in jar ; take enough water to cover them, 
first boiling with it salt, in proportion of one pint to each half gallon ; 
skim and pour over the pods ; let stand two or three days, drain, 
place them in clean, dry jar and pour over boiling vinegar, spiced 
as liked, and a little sugar may also be added. These are a new and 
delicious pickle. See Marketing for illustration of martynia. 

Mixed Pickles. — One-half peck green tomatoes, twenty-five 
medium-sized cucumbers, fifteen large white onions, one-half peck 
small onions, four heads cabbages, pint grated horseradish, half 
pound white mustard seed, a quarter pound ground mustard, half 
cup ground black pepper, half pint salad oil, ounce celery seed, half 
ounce ground cinnamon, two ounces turmeric. Slice tomatoes and 
large onions, cut cabbage as for slaw, quarter cucumbers lengthwise, 



TICKLES. 655 

cut in pieces two inches long, leaving on tlie peel, and add small 
onions whole. Mix with salt thoroughly, let stand twenty-four 
hours; drain off juice, and pour some vinegar and water over pickles. 
Let stand a day or two, drain again as dry as possible ; mix spices 
Avell except the ground mustard, then l^oil one and one-half gallons 
best vinegar and pour boiling hot over the pickles ; do this three 
mornings in succession, using the same vinegar each time. The 
third time add one pound sugar to the vinegar and boil, pouring 
over as above ; also mix the oil and ground mustard together with a 
small portion of the vinegar, and add when cold. Oil can be omit- 
ted if not relished. Or for Hanover Plel'les, take one peck toma- 
toes, half head cabbage, cut with slaw cutter; two bunches of celery 
or a little celery seed, three or more small carrots, using only the 
red part, six onions, five bell peppers ; chop and mix together, 
sprinkle in seeds, and pour on a pint molasses ; heat three pints vine- 
gar, two tablespoons each ground cloves, cinnamon, and yellow mus- 
tard and pour over scalding hot. Excellent and improves with age. 

Pepper Pickles. — Procure the smallest peppers to be had when 
half ripe before they turn red ; make a sm«,ll hole at top and bot- 
tom of each and with a pen-knife extract core and seed. Simmer 
peppers a whole day in salt and water over moderate fire, stirring 
occasionally to prevent burning. Leave overnight to cool, and next 
morning place gently in jar, sprinkle small quantity of mustard 
over and fill up with cold vinegar. Or slit them down the side with 
a knife, and remove seeds, put them in a strong brine for three days, 
changing it every morning ; then take them out, lay on a cloth, with 
another over them, until perfectly free from moisture. Boil suf- 
ficient vinegar to cover them, with one-fourth ounce mace and nut- 
meg to each quart vinegar, put the pods in jar, pour over the vine- 
gar when cold, and tie down closely. For Chopped Pepj^er Pickles, 
take twenty-five green peppers, more than double their bulk in cab- 
bage, half pint salt, one tablespoon each mustard seed, ground 
cloves, and allspice. Take the seeds from the peppers, and chop 
them fine ; chop the cabbage, and all the other ingredients, cover 
with cold vinegar, mix thoroughly, and put in closely covered jars. 

Pyfer Pickles. — Salt pickles down dry for ten days, soak in 
fresh water one day ; pour off water, place in porcelain kettle, cover 
with water and vinegar, and add teaspoon pulverized alum to each 
gallon ; set overnight on stove which had fire in during day; Avasli 
and put in jar with cloves, allspice, pepper, horse-radish and onions 
or garlic ; boil fresh vinegar and pour over all ; will be ready for use 
in two weeks. These pickles are always fresh and crisp, and are 
made with less trouble than the old-fashioned way in brine. 

Spanish Pickles. — One dozen large cucumbers, four heads cab- 
bage, one peck green tomatoes, one dozen onions, three ounces 



656 PICKLES. 

Avhite mustard seed, one ounce celery seed, one ounce turmeric, 
small box mustard, two and a half pounds brown sugar. Let the 
cucumbers stand in brine that will float an egg, three days ; slice 
onions, chop cabbage and tomatoes the day before making, and 
sprinkle with salt in proportion of half pint to a peck. When ready 
to make, squeeze brine out of cucumbers, wipe off, peel and cut in 
slices. Drain other vegetables and put all in kettle in layers with 
seasoning between, just cover with vinegar, simmer all slowly half an 
hour, and then bottle. The cabbage, cucumbers or tomatoes, or any 
two of them may be omitted, if the mixture is not liked. Another 
way is to take one peck cucumbers, cut in pieces about an inch 
square, two dozen each onions and green peppers, sliced ; sprinkle 
with salt and let stand a day and night, then drain overnight ; have 
ready ounce turmeric and horse-radish, two each celerj'' seed, white 
mustard, white ginger and cinnamon bark; put in a layer of pickles, 
then seasoning, then pickles, and so on until all are used ; pour one 
gallon cider vinegar over, heated with one pint brown sugar, and 
cover closely twenty-four hours, when it will be ready for use. 

Green Tomato Plchles. — Two gallons green tomatoes, slice's 
without peeling and twelve good sized onions, also sliced. Stew un- 
til quite tender, then add two quarts vinegar, one of sugar, two small 
tablespoons salt, two tablespoons each ground mustard and black 
pepper, tablespoon each allspice and cloves. Put up in small jars. 

Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Pare, but not scald, ripe, sound toma- 
toes and i^ut in jar ; scald in vinegar any spices wished, tied in a bag, 
and pour while hot over them. This recipe is much liked by those 
Avho prefer raw tomatoes. 

Universal Pickles. — To six quarts vinegar allow one pound 
salt, one-fourth pound ginger, one ounce mace, half pound shalots, 
tablespoon cayenne, two ounces mustard seed, one and a half 
of turmeric. Boil all together twenty minutes; when cold, 
put into a jar with whatever vegetables liked, such as rad- 
ish pods, French beans, cauliflower, gherkins, etc., as these come 
into season ; put them in fresh as gathered, wiping them per- 
fectly free from moisture and grit. This pickle will be fit for use 
in about eight or nine montlis. As this pickle takes two or three 
months to make, nearly that time will elapse before all the differ- 
ent vegetables are added ; care must be taken to keep the jar well 
covered, either with a closely fitting lid, or a piece of oil-cloth or 
buttered paper so as perfectly to exclude the air. This is an Eng- 
lish recipe and a decided innovation in pickling. 

Variety Pickle. — One peck green tomatoes, two or three of cu- 
cumbers, and two quarts large onions ; pare, slice and salt in 
separate jars (using a rounded pint salt for all), let them stand in thjs 
twenty-four hours, and drain well, wringing and press in a cloth ; 



TICKLES. 657 

sprinkle fresh green radish pods and nasturtium seeds with salt, 
and let stand for same length of time ; boil in water, salted to taste, 
two quarts half-grown, very tender bean pods, until they can be 
pierced with a silver fork, take out and drain. Now place all in six 
separate jars, cover Avith cold, weak vinegar for twenty-foUr hours, 
drain well, pressing hard to get out all the juice ; cook tomatoes as 
in Chopped Pickles, and then mix all well together. In a stone jar 
place first a layer of mixture, sprinkle with mustard seed (prepared 
as directed in recipe for Chopped Pickles), grated horse-radish, cin- 
namon bark, rings of garden peppers, and a few cloves, then another 
layer of the mixture, then the spice with a light sprinkling of cay- 
enne pepper. The spices used for this amount are nine tablespoons 
stick cinnamon, five teaspoons each mustard seed, cloves and horse- 
radish, and twenty-seven rings of garden peppers. Cover with good 
cider vinegar, let stand overnight, drain off vinegar and boil in a 
porcelain kettle, adding brown sugar in proportion of one pint to 
gallon vinegar ; skim well, pour hot over pickles, continue to drain 
off and reheat for several days. If not sweet enough, add more 
sugar, although these are not intended for sweet pickles. Some 
think it much nicer, after draining off and reheating vinegar two or 
three times, to put in the pickles and let come to a boil, then put 
away as directed in preface. 

West India Pickle. — Take one white crisp cabbage, two heads 
cauliflower, three heads celery, one quart each small green plums, 
])eac'hes, grapes, radish pods, nasturtium seeds artichokes, tomatoes 
and string beans, the green rind of a water-melon after paring, one 
(}uart small onions parboiled in milk, one hundred small cucumbers 
about an inch long, a few green peppers, and three limes or green 
lemons ; cut fine the cabbage, cauliflower, celery, pepper, limes, and 
green ginger ; mix well with the rest, then pour a strong hot brine 
over, and let stand three hours ; take out and drain overnight. 
INIix one ounce turmeric powder, with a little cold vinegar, add one 
bottle French mustard, ground cinnamon, allspice, two nutmegs, 
black pepper, four pounds white sugar and one gallon vinegar, and 
pour boiling hot over the pickle; if not sufficient liquid to 
moisten nicely, add more vinegar. 

CJioivchow. — Let two hundred small cucumbers stand in salt and 
water closely covered three days. Boil fifteem ninutes in half gal- 
lon best cider vinegar, one ounce white mustard seed, black mustard 
seed, juniper berries and celery seed (tying each ounce separately 
in Swiss bags), handful small green peppers, two pounds sugar, few 
small onions, and piece of alum half size of a nutmeg ; pour vinegar 
while hot over cucumbers, let stand a day, pouring off and reheat- 
ing the vinegar and repeat the operation three or four mornings. 
Mix one-fourth pound mustard with vinegar before pouring over the 
last time and seal up in bottles. For Go2)her Chowchow take 



658 PICKLES. 

fifty medium-sized cucumbers, pared and sliced for table, two quarts 
each small, green tomatoes, cut in pieces, small white onions, whole, 
and nasturtiums (if liked), three large cauliflowers, tablespoon bird 
pepper, pint shredded horse-radish, three ounces whole black pep- 
per. Cut the cauliflower in pieces suitable for pickling, boil in 
salted water till easily pierced with a broom splint ; boil the onion 
and tomatoes separately in weak vinegar till tender ; mix one pint 
ground mustard, six tablespoons flour, three of turmeric, three of 
brown sugar, wet with a little vinegar and stir till smooth, after 
Avhich add vinegar till a gallon has been used. Let this boil till 
the flour thickens, then add all ingredients and when thoroughly 
heated through, can while hot. Stir constantly while heating, as it 
burns easily . If not liked so strong, use only three-fourths or half 
l^int mustard and only one tablespoon turmeric. Some take equal 
parts cucumbers, cauliflower and onions, omiting the tomatoes, and 
cup sugar to gallon vinegar. If cauliflower cannot be obtained the 
hearts of cabbage may be used with some chopped cabbage in the 
dressing. If dressing is left it will be found excellent for salad, 
sandwiches, cold meats and baked beans. Or soak in weak brine 
overnight three quarts small cucumbers, six cauliflowers, three 
quarts small white onions, one quart nasturtiums, six heads sliced 
celery. Any small pickles may be added, or small green tomatoes 
halved or quartered, red or green peppers, string beans, radish pods, 
etc. Steam the beans, tomatoes and onions. Put in preserving 
kettle two gallons vinegar, two cups fine mustard, two tablespoons 
each sweet oil, salt, and turmeric powder with two cups sugar and 
half cup corn-starch, mixed with a little cold vinegar. Let boil a 
few minutes, stirring constantly, pour over the pickle and seal as 
hot as possible. For Buckeye CJioiochoiv, take six heads cabbage, 
half bushel green tomatoes, twenty onions, and eighteen large cu- 
cumbers, peeled ; chop each separately, drain overnight, first sprink- 
ling with salt. In morning take two pounds brown sugar, two gal- 
lons best cider vinegar, four ounces mixed spices, one-half dozen 
small red peppers, chopped, four ounces ground mustard, two each of 
w^hite mustard seed and celery seed. Put vinegar on stove with spices 
and sugar, and lot come to a boil, add the pickles, well drained, and 
heat all to boiling point ; can and seal. Some cook an hour or 
two. In draining vegetables put in cloth sacks,- hanging where they 
candrip. Or take in all a gallon of pickles, green shelled beans, corn, 
small pickles, small cantelopes, green tomatoes, and scpashes ; cut 
in small pieces, sprinkle with two tea-cups salt, just cover with water, 
and let stand overnight, then rinse well in cold water. Put two 
quarts vinegar in porcelain kettle with cup sugar, five tablespoons 
M^hole white mustard seed, and three tablespoons celery seed ; boil 
five minutes, put in the pickles, and boil half an hour ; mix one- 
fourth pound ground mustard in a little vinegar and stir in just as 
it is taken from fire. Instead of chopping the vegetables, etc., they 



PICKLES. 659 

may be put through the sausage grinder, if wanted cut fine, and 
some add a pint grated horse-radish. 

Chutney. — Take six pounds good sound apples not quite ripe, 
two pounds brown sugar, three-fourths pound onions, five and 
half ounces salt, one and half ounce ground ginger, one ounce 
chillies, one quart squash pepper, one ounce whole mustard seed, 
six ounces good fresh raisins, three pints good vinegar ; chop fine 
apples, onions, raisins, and chillies ; add salt, sugar, spices and vine- 
gar ; boil a few minutes and bottle. Keep a few months before using. 

Melon Mangoes. — Select gi'een or half grown musk-melons ; re- 
move a piece the length of melon, and inch and a half wide in the 
middle and tapering to a point at each end ; take out seeds with a 
teaspoon, secure one end of each piece to its own melon by a stitch 
made with a needle and white thread. Make a brine of salt and 
cold water strong enough to float an egg, pour it over them, and 
after twenty-four hours take them out. For filling, use tomatoes 
and cabbage prepared as in Chopped Pickles, small cucumbers, 
small white onions, and nasturtium pods, each prepared by remain- 
ing in salt and water in separate jars twenty-four hours ; add also 
green beans boiled in salt and water until tender. For spice, use 
cinnamon bark, whole cloves, grated horse-radish, cayenne pepper, 
mustard seed, the latter prepared as directed in Chopped Pickles. 
Prepare three or four times as much cabbage and tomatoes as of 
other articles, and any part left over may be placed in jar with vin- 
egar poured over, and is ready for table. Use one, or, if small, two 
cucumbers, two or three onions, and same quantity of bean and 
nasturtium pods, placing them in mango first, with two or three 
cloves, three or four sticks cinnamon an inch long, and half tea- 
spoon horse-radish, and filling up afterwards with the chopped cab- 
bage or tomatoes (mixing, or using them separately in alternate 
melons) pressing down very firmly, so that mango is filled tight, 
sprinkling on cayenne pepper last. Sew in piece all around in its 
proper place with strong white thread ; when all are thus prepared, 
place in a stone jar, cover with weak cider vinegar and let remain 
overnight ; in the morning place the mangoes, and vinegar in which 
they were soaked, in porcelain kettle, boil half an hour, place in jar, 
cover with good, fresh, cider vinegar and let stand all night ; in the 
morning drain off vinegar and boil it, adding one pint sugar to each 
gallon, or more if wished, and pour boiling hot over mangoes ; drain 
off vinegar next day, boil, pour hot over them ; repeat three or four 
times, and then put away. For Yellow Mangoes, scrape off the 
outside rind of green cantelopes (from four to six inches in length), 
and cut a piece two inches square from the side, keeping this to be 
sewed in again when pickled ; remove all seeds and soft substance 
through this opening. Scald in salt and water, using a half pound 
salt to four quarts water ; then rub them well with salt, lay on a 



660 PICKLES. 

white cloth, and let bleach in the sun a few days, turning frequently. 
When bleached wipe off salt, and put them in a two-gallon jar with 
one gallon weak cider vinegar, add about two tablespoons turmeric ; 
let remain forty-eight hours. Take two ounces white ginger, shredded 
and soaked forty-eight hours in salt and water, and two ounces each 
long pepper, white pepper, coriander and carraway seed, cardamon, 
garlic, horseradish, turmeric and ground mustard, and half pint sweet 
oil ; mix all together, adding small head cabbage and two or three 
dozen green tomatoes, finely chopped. Stuff the cantelopes and 
sew in the covers ; put in jar and cover with gallon vinegar and half 
pi nt brown sugar. The long pepper spoken of above i s the produce of a 
diiTerent plant from that which produces the black, consisting of 
the half-ripe flower-heads of what naturalists call Piper longum. 
Onions, cauliflowers, etc., may be bleached and pickled as above, 
omitting the stufiing. For Haivkeye Mangoes, take the melons, 
prepared and soaked in brine as in first recipe, and scald them in 
vinegar spiced with cinnamon and cloves. For filling, chop fine 
two medium-sized heads of cabbage, sprinkle with salt and let stand 
overnight ; add one pound each chopped raisins, white mustard and 
celery seed, three pints grated horse-radish, one of nasturtium seed, 
a little ground mustard, ounce turmeric, pint olive oil, cup sugar, 
one nutmeg, grated, and a few small pickles added as in first recipe. 
When melons are filled, sew in piece, place in jar and cover with 
vinegar, either hot or cold, adding a little sugar, if wished. For a 
Horse-radish Fillinff, take in proportion of one-third grated horse- 
radish to two-thirds mustard seed, and to a quart of this, use teaspoon 
each mace, ground mustard, sugar and celery seed, two of grated 
onion, dozen pepper-corns, a little ginger and half teaspoon salad oil. 

Peach Mangoes. — Take unpared, fine, large freestone peaches ; 
with a knife extract the stone from the side, place in jar, pour over 
them boiling water salted to taste, let stand twenty-four hours ; drop 
into fresh cold water and leave ten or fifteen minutes ; wipe very 
dry, fill each cavity with grated horse-radish and white mustard seed, 
prepared as directed in recipe for Chopned Pickles, a small piece of 
ginger root, and one or two cloves ; sew up, and place in stone jar as 
close together as possible. Make a syrup in proportion of one pint 
sugar to three pints vinegar and pour boiling hot over them. They 
will be ready for use in a week, and are very fine. 

Pepper Mangoes. — Procure fifty "bull nose" or large sweet pep- 
pers and lay in strong salt water two weeks ; then simmer half an 
hour in weak vinegar, protecting with cabbage or grape leaves, 
though the use of leaves is not necessary to success. Cut off" top of 
pepper or small piece from side, and remove seeds. Then fill pep- 
])or with nice firm cabbage, chopped as for slaw ; to one large head 
tr.ke half pint grated horse-radish, pint mixed white and black mus- 
tard seed, half pint best olive oil and three cloves of garlic, if 



PICKLES. 



661 



liked. Put the top or piece cut off, in place, tie it on with nice 
clean twine, and put the mangoes in ajar. Add, to enough vinegar 
to cover them, two pounds brown sugar, cloves, mace, and allspice 
to taste, boil and pour hot over the mangoes. If liked, have three 
quarts small onions, prepared by scalding, peeling and soaking throe 
days in brine; drain, add to mango jar, cover, and when cold tie 
down with oil-cloth as directed in preface. Or, With Tongue, cut 
a slit in the side of each pepper and take out all seeds ; soak them- 
two days in brine, strong enough to float an egg, wash with cold 
water, put in a jar and cover with vinegar boiled with cinnamon, 
mace and nutmeg to taste. To serve, stuff each with cold boiled 
tongue, cut into dice, and mixed with mayonaise dressing. Or 
make little mangoes of small peppers, stuffing each with pickled 
nasturtiums, grapes, minced onions, red cabbage or cucumbers, sea- 
soned with mustard seed, root ginger, and mace. 

Tomato Mangoes— Cut off top and thoroughly scrape out in- 
inside of green tomatoes, leaving the shell ; make a strong brme to 
cover them and let stand one day ; take out and wash well in cold 
water ; chop fine one cabbage and very fine, a dozen onions ; add 
grated horse-radish, salt, pepper, and white mustard seed ; mix all 
well together, and fill tomatoes nice and even ; place on top and tie 
as in Pepper Mangoes ; place in jar, and cover with cold vinegar. 

Picnic Relish.— Take large cucumbers that have begun to 
turn white before ripening ; pare, split, scrape out seeds, grate and 
put in sieve or colander to drain. To one quart pulp add teaspoon 
salt, half teaspoon cayenne pepper, two tablespoons grated horse- 
radish, one of grated onion, and as much cold vinegar as juice 
drained off; throw juice away. Can without heating. Will retain 
flavor nicely. The onion may be omitted. Or grate and drain four 
dozen cucumbers, add fourteen onions and six or seven green pep- 
pers, chopped very fine ; six teaspoons pepper, four of salt and one 
quart vinegar. Can as above. 

FicaUiUi.—Cho^ fine one large white cabbage, fifty small cu- 
cumbers, five quarts small string beans, eight small carrots, one 
dozen stalks celery, five red and three green peppers, and two heads 
cauliflower ; soak overnight in salt and water, wash well, drain thor- 
oughly, and pour hot vinegar over, spiced with mace, cinnamon and 
allspice ; turn off vinegar and pour hot over mixture again ; repeat 
this five times , or cook mixture and can. Or, take half bushel green 
tomatoes, an equal quantity of cabbage, and one dozen each onions 
and green peppers, or cayenne if green peppers cannot be had ; chop 
all fine, mix, sprinkle one pint salt over and through them, and let 
stand overnight. In the morning drain off brine, cover with good 
vinegar and boil slowly one hour. Then drain and put in a jar. 
Take two pounds brown sugar, two tablespoons each celery seed 



662 PICKLES. 

and cinnamon, one each allspice and cloves, two grated nutmegs* 
one half cup ground pepper and one pint horse-radish with vinegar 
to mix. Boil all together and pour over contents of jar. Cover 
tight or bottle and seal while hot. Or the ingredients, proportions 
or spices may be varied to suit the taste. An excellent pickle is 
made by choiyping together gherkins, small onions, red peppers, 
nasturtiums, cauliflower, and the small heart of a cabbage — four 
quarts in all ; put in brine for thirty-six hours, then drain well and 
put in jars. Rub two ounces each curry and dry mustard with half 
pint salad or sweet oil, add an ounce and a half ginger, an ounce 
turmeric, half pound sugar, and boil with two quarts vinegar until 
thickened ; then pour over the pickles and cover. 

Olives. — Serve in pickle dishes with broken ice strewn upon 
them. When the flavor of olives is not at first appreciated, it is 
best to soak overnight in fresh water, and then place in vinegar. A 
capital pickle is thus made, and those eating them this way soon 
learn to like them without this preparation. Stufl'ed Olives make a 
delicious dish, Olives are also used in sauces for entrees, and for 
garnishing salads, meats, etc. 



Swreet IPickles. 



Sweet pickles may be made of any fruit that can be preserved, 
including rinds of ripe melons and cucumbers. The fruit must be 
ripe, but not soft ; peaches, plums, and cherries should be pickled 
whole ; pears also may be whole, or nicely halved, cored, and pared ; 
quinces, after being parboiled, must be pared, quartered, and cored ; 
if large, cut in eighths. Plums and other smooth-skinned fruits 
should be well pricked before cooking. The usual proportion of 
sugar to vinegar for syrup is three pints to a quart, making what 
is called a Single Syrup. A richer proportion known as Douhle 
Syrup is four pints sugar to a pint vinegar. When making it, this 
will seem too rich, but the pickles canned with it will be perfectly 
delicious, and can scarcely be told from brandied fruit. Sweet 
pickles may be made of any preserve by boiling over the syrup, add- 
ing spices and vinegar and pouring hot over the fruit. Examine 
frequently and re-scald the syrup if there are signs of fermentation. 
The principal spices used are stick cinnamon and whole cloves ; 
and either granulated, "coffee C," or good stirred maple sugar. All 
that is necessary to keep sweet pickles when not canned, but kept 
in stone jars is to have syrup enough to cover, and keep the fruit 



SWEET PICKLES. 663 



well under. Drain each morning, boil the syrup and pour hot over 
the fruit until the latter is of same color throughout, and syrup 
like molasses ; one can hasten the process, by cooking the syrup quite 
awhile each morning, instead of simply bringing to a boil. Watch 
every week, particularly if weather is warm, and if scum rises and 
syrup assumes a whitish appearance, boil, skim, and pour over the 
fruit. If at any time S3a-up is lacking, prepare more as at first. 
Put spices in jar when pickles are almost done, as directed in Peach 
Pickles; and when putting in hot fruit or syrup, set jar near stove, 
put in only a little fruit at a time, and. when all is in, pour syrup 
over slowly. This care will prevent a cracked jar. 

Canning is much the nicest Avay of putting up sweet pickles, 
and some can Chowchow and other sour pickles. Make the syrup 
in proportions given in the recipe used, putting in the spices loose, 
or tied loosely in piece of cheese-cloth ; or cloves, two or three may be 
stuck in the fruit, if latter is whole, as peaches, pears, etc., and the 
cinnamon cooked in the syrup. Cook the fruit in the syrup until 
tender, and prepare cans and fruit as directed in Canning Fruit. 
When pickling the light-fleshed fruits, only a small quantity should 
be pared at a time, as they darken ver}^ quickly, and two kettles 
should be used, one for cooking the fruit and the other for making 
extra syrup to be added when needed. When canning either 
pickles or fruit, after filling cans take out a sufficient quantity of 
the hot syrup to fill up the cans as directed, after the fruit has set- 
tled ; and keep it hot for this purpose by setting in a pan of boiling 
water until wanted. This enables one to work more expeditiously, 
for fresh fruit can then be placed in kettle, adding syrup from that 
made ready in second kettle ; or making more syrup in same kettle, 
then adding fruit and letting it cook while finishing cans first filled. 
A dozen whole pears or twenty whole peaches will fill a quart can. 
Some sprinkle the sugar over fruit, let stand overnight, then boil 
juice with the vinegar and spices fifteen minutes ; put in fruit, boil 
ten minutes, and can as directed ; or put in stone jar, reheating 
syrup as above, allowing to every seven pounds fruit, three pounds 
sugar and pint cider vinegar, two ounces each whole cloves and 
stick cinnamon. Always use a silver fork to test pickles, and keep 
the latter in a cool, dry place ; if canned, place in Fruit Closet, page 
147. In ventilating this closet it is well to place the opening or 
holes, in one side as well as door, or if closet is not placed in corner 



664 SWEET PICKLES. 



of room, put them in the two sides opposite each other. While en- 
dorsing strongly the cider vinegar, the Economical Vinegar, recipe 
for which is given in Kitchen, is equally good and has been thorough- 
ly tested. When wishing to renew sweet pickles, drain, add to, and 
heat with the old syrup, more vinegar and sugar, in proportions first 
used. One must not use all fresh vinegar, nor throw away the old 
syrup as is the case in sour pickles (see Cucumbers Pickles), nor is 
there the same need to do so, for sweet pickles are more like pre- 
serves, the syrup being really used as a part of the pickles as well as 
acting as a preservative. 



Pickled Apples. — For one peck sweet apples take three pounds 
sugar, two quarts vinegar, half ounce each cinnamon and cloves ; 
pare apples, leaving them whole ; boil in part of vinegar and sugar 
until they can be pierced with fork ; take them out, heat remainder 
of vinegar and sugar arid pour over them. Be careful not to boil 
them long or they will break. Or, take three pounds sugar, seven 
pounds apples, quartered and cored and one pint vinegar. Steam 
apples till a fork will pierce them. Then make a syrup of sugar and 
vinegar and pour over them while hot. Stick a clove or two into 
each quarter. For Pickled Crab- Apples., steam as above, watch- 
ing closely, as they cook very quickly. When the skin is just ready 
to break, take out, and place in the hot Single or Double Syrup, al- 
ready prepared in kettle ; cook only a moment or two, and then can 
as directed. Some prick the apples just like plums. 

Pickled Barberries. — For each quart fruit allow a pint each 
vinegar and sugar, boil together and pour over berries in jar. 

Pickled Beets. — Boil them in a porcelain kettle till they can 
be pierced with a silver fork ; when cool cut lengthwise to size of 
medium cucumber; boil equal parts vinegar and sugar with a half 
tablespoon ground cloves tied in a cloth to each gallon ; pour boil- 
ing hot over the beets. 

Pickled Blackberries. — Three quarts blackberries, one quart 
vinegar, one quart sugar; put all together and boil ten or fifteen 
minutes. Put up and seal in glass cans. Cinnamon or any spices 
to taste may be added, but very nice without. 

Pickled Grapes. — Fill a jar with alternate layers of sugar and 
bundles of nice grapes, just ripe and freshly gathered ; fill one-third 
full of good cold vinegar and cover tightly. Or clip the grapes from 
main stem with scissors and pack snugly in stone jar; make a 
Single Syrup and add tablespoon whole cloves and two of cinna- 
mon bark, and pour over grapes in jar ; set away three or four days • 
then drain off vinegar, boil and pour over again ; repeat for a third 



SWEET PICKLES. 665 



time, and any time afterwards should the grapes be inclined to 
sour. They may be pickled in bunches if preferred, taking care to 
remove all imperfect fruit. Pears, Peaches and Figs are nice pickled 
same. Or for five pounds grapes, take two pounds sugar, a quart 
vinegar and one tablespoon whole mixed spices — cloves, allspice 
and mace. Boil vinegar and sugar together gently ten minutes ; 
putin grapes, and let simmer half an hour. Pour "all in colander 
set in pan, drain a few moments and put grapes in jar, and syrup 
back on fire, with the spices tied in a piece of muslin ; boil ten min- 
utes and pour over grapes in jar. After standing a day or two drain 
syrup off, boil and pour back hot. When cool, tie down and keep 
in cold place. The solid white California grapes can be pickled any 
time, but juicier varieties must be put up before too ripe. 

Pickled Hucklelerries. — Take seven pounds berries, three and 
half pounds brown sugar, cinnamon, mace, and cloves to taste ; boil 
all together, then adcl one pint strong vinegar, boil up and can 
while hot. Blue-berries prepared in same way, or as Peach Pickles. 



one 
can. 



PicMed Raisins. — Leave two .pound raisins on stem, add 
pint vinegar and half pound sugar ; simmer half an hour, then ^ 

Rijpe Cucumber Pickles. — Cut large, ripe, solid cucumbers in 
rings, pare, divide into smaller pieces and remove seeds , cook pieces 
very slightly in weak vinegar, with salt enough to season well, drain, 
and put in stone jar in layers with a few slices of onions, some cay- 
enne pepper, whole allspice, whole cloves, bits of cinnamon bark, 
and celery seed (according to taste) between each layer of cucum- 
ber. Then cover with syrup made of one pound sugar to one quart 
cider vinegar, boiled for about five minutes. Put in stone jars and 
cover closely or can as directed. Sprinkling the onion slices with 
a little salt and sugar, covering with vinegar and letting stand two 
or three hours greatly improves the pickles, which are made very 
nice as follows : After cooking in the weak vinegar, make the 
syrup and pour it hot over them, repeat this four or five mornings, 
cooking both syrup and cucumbers the last time ; then place the 
latter in cans with alternate layers of onions and spices, covering 
with the syrup and canning as above. Some first soak cucumber 
pieces overnight in weak vinegar and water, then parboil in same. 

Peach Pickles.— Fcire freestone peaches, place in stone jar, and 
pour over them boiling-hot syrup made in proportion of one quart 
best cider vinegar to three pints "Coffee C" sugar ; boil and skim 
and pour over the fruit boiling hot, repeating each day for five days 
until the fruit is the same color to the center, and the syrup like 
molasses. Place the fruit, after draining on fifth day, in the jar to 
the depth of three or four inches, then sprinkle over bits of cinna- 
mon bark and a few cloves, and another layer of fruit, then spice, 



666 SWEET PICKLES. 



and so on until the jar is full ; scald the syrup each morning for four 
more days and pour boiling hot over fruit ; if it is not sufficiently 
cooked, scald fruit with the syrup the last time. The proportion of 
spices to a gallon of fruit is, two teaspoons whole cloves and four 
tablespoons stick cinnamon. For Clingstone Picldes^ prepare syrup 
as for freestones ; pare fruit, put in the syrup, boil until they can be 
pierced through with a silver fbrk ; skim out, place in jar, pour the 
boiling syrup over them, and proceed and finish as alDove. As 
clings are apt to become hard when stewed in sweet syrup, it may 
often be necessary to use a pint of water the first time they are 
cooked, watching carefully until they are tender, or to use only part 
of the sugar at first, adding the rest in a day or two. Use the large 
White Heath clingstones. Watch pickles as directed in preface. 

Pear Piclcles. — Prepare syrup as for peaches, pare and cut fruit 
in halves, or quarters if very large, and if small leave whole, put 
syrup in porcelain kettle, and when it boils put in truit, cook until 
a silver fork will easily pierce them ; skim out fruit first and place 
in jar, and then pour over syrup boiling hot ; spice like Peach Pickles, 
draining them each day, boiling and skimming syrup, and pouring 
it boiling hot over fruit until fully done. By cooking pears at lirst 
the syrup does not need to be boiled so many times and the fruit 
does not need to be again cooked in syrup, but they must be watched 
carefully until finished, and if perfectly done, will keep two or more 
years. Apple Pickles may be made in the same way, taking care 
to select such as will not lose shape in boiling. Or, for Gopher 
Pear Vickies, make a syrup of one pint vinegar and four pints 
sugar ; cook five or ten minutes, skimming if necessary ; add ten or 
twelve Bartlett pears, according to size, and three or four pieces 
cinnamon and a dozen cloves tied loosely in a square of cheese- 
cloth. Cook fruit as above ; then place in a glass quart can, pre- 
pared as in Canning Fruit ; fill with syrup, seal and finish as di- 
rected. Add more fruit to kettle, and as needed, more syrup pre- 
pared as above. It is better to can only one or two quarts at a 
time, as fruit darkens so easily. The putting of enough hot syrup 
in a bowl, as directed in preface, with which to fill up cans, expe- 
dites matters greatly. Peaches and any fruit except water-melon 
may be pickled thus and will greatly resemble brandied fruit. 

Strai^herry Pickles. — Ten pounds strawberries, five and a half 
pounds brown sugar, one quart cider vinegar, half ounce cloves, and 
one stick of cinnamon. Place the strawberries and spices in alternate 
layers in deep dish. Boil sugar and vinegar three minutes, and 
pour it over them, letting them remain until next day. The second 
day pour liquor off and boil again three minutes, returning as before 
to the berries. Let them remain until the third day, when boil all 
together over a slow fire for half an hour. Can as directed in Can- 
ing Fruits. Pine- Apple Pickles can be made same way. 



SWEET PICKLES. 667 



Chopped Tomato Pickles. — Take eight pounds green tomatoes 
and chop fine, add four pounds brown sugar and boil three hours ; 
add a quart vinegar, teaspoon each mace, cinnamon and cloves, and 
boil about fifteen minutes ; let cool and put into jars or other ves- 
sels. Try this recipe once and it will be tried again. For Sliced 
Tomato Pickles, wash and cut off ends of peck green tomatoes, 
slice, sprinkle with salt as in Chopped Pickles and let stand over- 
night ; drain, and cover with cold weak vinegar for twenty-four 
hours, then pour all in kettle, boil ten minutes and'drain. Make a 
Single Syrup, as directed, when hot add tomatoes, boil three min- 
utes and pack in jar in layers with spices, as in Peach Pickles. 

Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Pare and weigh ripe tomatoes, put into 
jars and just cover with vinegar ; after standing three days pour ofl' 
vinegar and add five pounds coffee sugar to every seven of fruit ; 
spice to taste, using cinnamon, mace and a little cloves, if preferred ; 
when hot, add tomatoes and cook slowly all day on back of stove. 

Water-melon Pickles. — Pare off very carefully the green part of 
the rind of a good, firm, ripe water-melon, trim off red core, cut in 
pieces one or two inches in length, or in fancy shape of about same 
size, place in porcelain-lined kettle, in proportion of one gallon rinds 
to two heaping teaspoons common salt, and water to nearly cover, 
boil until tender enough to pierce with silver fork, pour in colander 
to drain, and dry by taking a few pieces at a time in the hand, and 
pressing gently with a crash towel. Make syrup, and treat rinds ex- 
actly as directed for Peach Pickles. Continue adding rinds, as 
melons are used at table, preparing them first by cooking in salt 
water as above, and putting them in jar each morning before heat- 
ing and returning the syrup. Those added must be put in bottom 
of jar and some hot syrup poured immediately over them; then put 
back those first pickled and pour remainder of hot syrup over all ; 
when as many are prepared as are wanted, and they are nearly 
pickled, drain, spice, and finish as directed in Peach Pickles, except 
when the syrup is boiled the last time, put in melons and boil fif- 
teen minutes. A rind nearly an inch thick, crisp and tender, is best. 

Spiced Blackherries. — Take five pounds berries, two of sugar, 
pint vinegar, two tablespoons each cinnamon, cloves, and allspice ; 
heat all well together, skim out fruit and boil syrup one hour ; re- 
turn fruit and boil fifteen minutes; put in jars and cover tight. 
Spiced Currantsva^j be prepared same,adding another pound sugar. 

Spiced Cherries. — Boil a quart vinegar with three and a half 
pounds sugar, and teaspoon each cinnamon and cloves, and pour 
oyer three and a half quarts nice, firm cherries. Next day draiii off 
vinegar, boil five minutes, return to cherries and repeat three days. 

Spiced Currants. — Put an ounce cinnamon, half ounce cloves 
and tablespoon each ground mace and allspice in a bag and boil 



668 SWEET PICKLES, 



with four pounds currants and two of sugar to a thick syrup. When 
nearly done add a pint vinegar and put away in jelly tumblers or 
glass cans. Some add three pounds raisins, and one pint more vin- 
egar. Or for Currant Pickles omit the spices. 

Spiced Elderberries. — Take four pounds sugar, one pint vine- 
gar, six pounds berries ; boil one tablespoon ground cinnamon, tea- 
spoon each ground cloves and allspice, in the vinegar ; strain, add 
sugar, boil up, tlien add berries and boil two hours. 

Spiced Gooseberries. — Leave stems and blossoms en ripe goose- 
berries and wash clean ; make a syrup of three pints sugar to one of 
vinegar, skim, if necessary, add berries and boil till thick, adding 
more sugar if needed ; when almost done, spice with' cinnamon and 
cloves to taste and boil as thick as apple butter. 

Spiced Grapes. — Six pounds grapes, three of sugar, two tea- 
spoons each cinnamon and allspice, half teaspoon cloves ; pulp grapes, 
boil skins until tender, cook pulps and strain through a sieve, add 
to skins, put in sugar and spices with vinegar to taste ; boil thor- 
oughly, put in glasses and when cool cover tightly. 

Spiced Nutmeg Melon. — Select melons not quite ripe ; open, 
scrape out the pulp, peel, and slice ; put in a stone jar, and for five 
pounds fruit scald a quart vinegar, and two and a half pounds su- 
gar together, and pour over the fruit ; pour off and scald the syrup 
and pour over the fruit each day for eight successive days. On the 
ninth, add one ounce each stick cinnamon, whole cloves and all- 
spice. Scald fruit, vinegar and spices together, and seal up in jars. 
This pickle should stand two or three months before using, nlue 
Plums are delicious prepared in this way. 

Spiced Peaches. — Boil three pounds sugar and a pint and a 
half vinegar with ounce whole cloves and two of stick cinnamon ; 
two or three of the former, with their heads off, may be stuck in 
each peach ; then put in seven pounds peeled peaches and let them 
heat through thoroughly. Skim out fruit and put in stone jars, 
boil syrup untiL thick and pour over peaches. Pears., Plums., and 
Cherries may be prepared same way. 

Spiced Plums. — Boil two quarts vinegar with six pounds sugar 
and an ounce cinnamon, with half ounce whole cloves, if liked, and 
pour over nine pounds blue plums'; next morning drain off vinegar, 
boil and pour back on plums ; repeat this five mornings, boiling the 
fruit m the vinegar the last morning about twenty minutes. 

Spiced Tomatoes. — Peel and slice seven pounds ripe tomatoes, 
put in preserving kettle, with half their weight in sugar, a pint vin- 
egar, and tablespoon each whole cloves, allspice, pepper-corns, salt, 



SWEET PICKLES. 669 



and teaspoon mace ; boil slowly two hours, stirring often enough to 
prevent burning; then cool in kettle, and put in self-sealing cans. 

Cayenne Yinegar. — Put a pint vinegar in bottle with a half 
ounce cayenne pepper and let stand a month ; then strain and bot- 
tle for use. An excellent seasoning for soups and sauces, but must 
be used sparingly. 

Celery Vinegar. — Crush one-fourth ounce celery seed by pound- 
ing in a mortar ; boil a pint vinegar, and when cold, pour on the 
seed; let stand two weeks, then strain and bottle for use. A good 
substitute for celery in salads, etc. If wanted strong use double the 
quantity of seed. 

Chilli Yinegar. — Put fifty chopped or bruised chillies, cayenne 
pepper pods, into a pint best vinegar, let stand a month, then strain 
and bottle. This makes a much stronger vinegar than the cayenne. 

Cider Yinegar. — To make a small quantity put a pound white 
sugar in a gallon cider, shake well together and leave to ferment 
four months, when a strong well-flavored vinegar will result. For 
directions for making vinegar in large quantities, see Kitchen. 

Clover Yinegar. — Put a quart molasses in a crock, and pour 
over it nine quarts boiling rain water ; let stand until milk-warm, put 
in two quarts clover blossoms, and two cups baker's yeast; let stand 
two weeksj and strain through a towel. Nothing will mold in it. 

Cucuniber Yinegar. — Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, 
and four large onions and put in stone jar with two or three shal- 
lots, a little garlic, tAvo tablespoons salt, three teaspoons pepper, 
and half teaspoon cayenne. Leave for four days then boil up and 
when cold, strain till clear and bottle for use. 

Elder- floioer Yinegar. — Gather the buds of elder-flowers, and 
to every half peck add one gallon vinegar, leaving it a fortnight in 
jug to ferment. Then strain through a flannel bag, put into it a 
small bit of dissolved gellatine, and bottle. The flavor of the herbs 
may also be extracted by boiling the herbs or leaves in vinegar, 
without fermentation ; a mixture of tarragon leaves and elder-flow- 
ers is very agreeable. 

Ilorse-radish Yinegar. — Take six tablespoons grated horse- 
radish, one of white sugar, and a quart vinegar; scald the vinegar 
and pour boiling hot over the horse-radish and sugar. Let stand a 
week, strain and bottle. Or, take three ounces grated horse-radish, 
a drachm cayenne pepper, an ounce of shallots, chopped or minced 
very fine, and pour over them a quart good vinegar ; let stand a 
fortnight, strain and bottle. 

Garlic Yinegar. — Pour a quart best vinegar over two ounces 
peeled and bruised garlic. Bottle and cork tightly and in two or 



670 SWEET PICKLES. 



three weeks it may be strained off for use. A few drops will flavor 
a sauce or tureen of gravy. More or less garlic may be used as 
liked. Shallot Vinegar made same way. 

Mint Vinegar. — Put into a wide-mouthed bottle enough fresh, 
clean peppermint, spearmint, or garden parsley leaves to fill it 
loosely ; fill up with good vinegar, cork closely, leave two or three 
weeks, pour off into another bottle, and keep well corked for use. 
This is excellent for cold meats, soups and bread-dressings for roasts. 

Nasturtium Vinegar. — Pick full-blown nasturtium flowers and 
fill a wide-mouthed bottle, add a half clove of garlic and a moder- 
ate sized shallot chopped, fill up with vinegar ; let stand two months ; 
then strain and add a little cayenne pepper and salt. 

Oyster Vinegar. — Boil oysters in strong vinegar, until the vin- 
egar is highly flavored ; add clove, mace, and pepper, to suit the 
taste, strain and bottle. 

Peach Vinegar. — Crack one pint peach stones and blanch the 
kernels by throwing them into boiling water, then in cold ; pull off 
skin and cover with best cold vinegar, and cork tightly^ 

Red Vinegar. — Slice a head of garlic and put in bottle with 
half ounce cayenne, two teaspoons each soy and walnut catsup, a 
pint vinegar and cochineal to color,, Let stand a month, then strain 
and keep in small bottles. 

Spiced Vinegar. — Put three pounds sugar in three-gallon jar 
with small mouth ; mix two ounces each mace, cloves, pepper, all- 
spice, turmeric, celery seed, white ginger in small bits, and ground 
mustard ; put in six small bags made of thin but strong muslin, lay 
in a jar, fill with best cider vinegar, and use it in making pickles 
and sauces. Or if wanted to use at once, for every quart vinegar 
take two rounded teaspoons each cinnamon and cloves, one each of 
celery salt or seed, saltspoon black pepper and pinch of cayenne. 

Tarragon Vinegar. — Gather tarragon leaves just before the 
plant blossoms, strip from the larger stalks and put into small stone 
jars or wide-necked bottle; in doing this twist the branches, bruis- 
ing the leaves. Pour over vinegar enough to cover, allowing six or 
eight handfuls to a gallon vinegar; let stand two months or longer, 
pour off, strain, and put into small dry bottles, cork well and use as 
sauce for meats. This is very nice to use in Salad Dressings. 

Walnut Vi7iegar. -^Tiit green walnut shells in brine of salt and 
water, strong enough to float an egg, and leave covered ten days ; 
take out and lay in sun a week, then put in jar and pour boiling 
vinegar over ; in a week or ten days drain off and reheat the vinegar, 
pouring it over the shells again. Will be ready for use in a month. 
Excellent with cold meat and nice for making sauces. 



POTATOES. 671 



POTATOES. 



As there is not any other vegetable so much used as the potato, 
especially in winter and early spring, the housekeeper should have 
a variety of recipes from which to select the daily bill of fare ; and 
should also be wise in the art of cooking "only a potato ;" this little 
saying conveying the abuse to which this vegetable is subjected. 
Potatoes are composed largely of starch, and cooking bursts the 
cells and sets the starch free, and at this stage a boiled or baked 
potato should be served, as it will then be dry and mealy ; but if 
allowed to cook longer, the starch absorbs the moisture and a 
soggy, flavorless potato results ; another secret of having potatoes 
mealy and palatable is to cook them rapidly, and it is important to 
begin to cook them at the right time and have them as near the same 
size as possible in order to serve when just done. In latter part of 
winter potatoes are so watery that it is much better to steam them, 
and always, when to be mashed or used for made-dishes, peeling 
and steaming is preferable, using great care in the paring, as the 
iest part oi the potato lies next to the skin and for this reason in 
boiling potatoes, it is better to wash with a little brush, or a swab 
made by wrapping a cloth around a stick, as great care must be 
taken to have them perfectly clean, then cook, peel and serve ; or 
serve in their jackets, which is preferred by many. The only ex- 
ception to thus cooking, is in the late spring, for the skin of an old 
potato contains a narcotic property which gives a disagreeable flavor 
if not peeled before cooking. But however cooked, potatoes must 
be served hot. When intended to be mashed or used in made- 
dishes, if boiled, pare and cook without salt as it greatly impairs 
their flavor; the seasoning being added afterwards. Always pare 



672 POTATOES, 



potatoes left from a meal at once^ as they pare so much easier when 
warm, causing no waste ; except baked ones, which do not pare till 
cold ; but do not slice for use until wanted. One must exercise care 
in not cooking too many potatoes every day, thus requiring the 
same time in preparing the residue in some edible form, as would 
be consumed in preparing some move desirable dish from fresh 
ones, the cost also of preparing them being more than of the latter, 
owing to the additions required to make them palatable. When 
recipes call for cream, milk slightly thickened, and a little butter 
can be used; and in cooking with either, a custard kettle avoids all 
danger of scorching. Old potatoes, may be greatly improved by 
being soaked in cold water several hours after peeling, putting in 
immediately as exposure to air darkens, being particular to change 
the water once or twice, and wipe dry with a towel before putting on 
to boil. This freshens them and makes them crisper, although some 
claim they really become more tasteless. New ripe potatoes are 
best baked ; full grown, ripe ones may be either boiled or baked ; 
medium-sized smooth ones are best to use, the kind varying with 
the season. When cooking in water, use soft water, filtered, or if 
hard add small pinch soda and have it either cold or boiling, never 
tepid; for fuller directions see Boiled Potatoes. Although some 
prefer a "bone" in potatoes, to be wholesome they should be thorough- 
ly cooked whether baked, boiled, fried or steamed. Never waste cold 
cooked potatoes, as in winter they can be kept till sufficient for a 
dish of themselves, or at any time may be made in croquettes, hash, 
etc., with meat or other vegetables, or sliced and added to a soup or 
stew. Potatoes being of a farinaceous nature absorb fat, and so 
prove to be a good ingredient in Meat Pies. Potato Flour is dry 
starch powder, procured from the potato and is much used in French 
cookery ; it can be bought in this country, and in fact is often sold 
for arrowroot, to which it is inferior. More so than any other vege- ' 
table do potatoes differ in quality, according to variety and manner 
of culture. However the main crop may be raised, every farmer's 
wife should secure for late spring use a supply of a choice variety 
cultivated entirely in rotten-wood soil or in soil where wood ashes and 
gypsum are used as fertilizers. As potatoes enter so largely into the 
daily breakfast, dinner and supper of Americans, care should be 
exercised in their seasoning ; not using too much pepper and salt. 
There are many who do not use either, but each must be a law unto 



POTATOES. 673 



himself, only Ave Avould advise white pepper, if pepper must be used, 
as it is more mild and looks better. The first new potatoes received 
in the markets in the spring are the Bermudas, arriving in April. 
About the first of June come the Charlestons ; about the 20th,the Nor- 
folks, and late in June those from New Jersey and Long Island. The 
old potatoes are at this time scarce, poor, and not much used. Always 
drop potatoes in cold water when paring as they darken quickly. 

The sweet potato is of quite a different species from the com- 
mon and is a lighter food, but is sweet, wholesome and more nu- 
tritious. Two varieties are mostly used, the red or purple, and the 
white or yellow and are in season from August till December ; after 
which they begin to loose their flavor, and in the spring become 
spongy, and almost uneatable. Freezing does not injure them for 
though frozen hard as stones, their flavor and firmness are pre- 
served, if baked at once without being thawed. Clean them with a 
]>rush or dry towel, put them in the heated oven and bake. If thawed, 
even in cold water, they are soft and worthless. This is also true 
of Irish potatoes. 



Bahed Potatoes. — Select the largest and as near the same size 
as possible. Wash, brush and place in oven so that they do not 
touch each other, turn as needed and do not let them scorch ; bake 
till tender in a hot oven, testing by taking up between a clotb, and 
if they yield to pressure, they are done. Press each one thus as it 
makes them mealier, and serve at once covered with a napkin, for 
baked potatoes to be in their prime must be served when done, al- 
though if they must V)e kept, roll in a clean cloth and put in a warm 
place. A large potato will bake in an hour. For Quick-Baked 
Potatoes, prepare as above, cook in boiling Avater fifteen or twenty 
minutes, drain and place in a hot oven till skins are well broAvned — 
about eight or ten minutes, press and serA^e as above. Potatoes 
baked in ashes, knoAvn best as Boasted Potatoes are very delicious, 
and are considered the most wholesome and delicate way of pre- 
paring them. Scrape aAvay ashes, put in potatoes, cover with pure 
ashes first, and then hot coals. Or, if With Meat, peel and place 
in pan, around the meat, not touching each other, generally about 
three quarters of an hour before meat is done. See that the pan 
contains plenty of drippings, baste the potatoes often and with 
proper heat they Avill be broAvn'and crisp without, and Avliite and 
mealy Avithin. Some boil half done, peel, roll in flour, place 
in pan and finish as aboA^e. It is better to hah'e very old 
and large potatoes when baking with meat, and some always 



674 POTATOES. 



let them stand in cold water an hour or so before baking. Or, 
With Sauce, peel and bake in a moderate oven till tender; make 
the sauce by stirring into a pint boiling milk tablespoon corn- 
starch, beaten smooth in a little cold milk, cook five minutes ; take 
from fire and add a half cup sweet cream, piece of butter and the 
well-beaten whites of two eggs, a little pepper and salt. Serve on 
platter with potatoes in center, or separately in sauce-boat. For 
Larded Potatoes, peel, and with an apple corer take out a piece 
lengthwise through the center, insert bits of salt pork, ham or 
bacon and bake till tender, in a two-quart baking dish and serve in 
same. The cores can be used in soup or in mashed potatoes. Or 
for Glazed Potatoes^ wash medium-sized potatoes, peel out any de- 
fective places, put in dripi)ing pan in a moderately hot oven and 
])ake till tender, brush with melted butter or Pastry Glaze, let re- 
main a moment to brown, then serve. Using the Glaze as given in 
Gravies makes them delicious. 

Boiled Pototoes With Jackets. — Wash, brush (keep a small flat 
brush just for this purpose), cut offends and any bad specks and if 
quite old, let stand in cold water an hour or two. Cook in soft fil- 
tered water if possible, but if hard water is used, put in a small 
pinch of soda. The water should be freshly drawn if used cold, and 
should only be put over fire in time to reach the boiling point be- 
fore the hour for putting in potatoes, as standing and long boiling 
frees the gases and renders the water insipid. As regards the tem- 
perature in which to cook them,have water either cold or boilhuf never 
lukewarm and the kind of potato will govern that ; those potatoes 
that crack very soon in boiling water, presenting a mealy apj^ear- 
ance on the outside while the heart is uncooked, should be put on 
in cold water, and for those that do not cook very quickly use 
hoiling. Do not drown them in water, using only enough io just 
cover and some use even less. Do not let the water stop boiling as 
they will then be watery, but it must not boil too hard as that 
breaks them. Some place napkin under the lid to keep in all tlie 
steam. As regards salting the water or potatoes, there is a great 
difference of opinion, but the best housekeepers do not use any salt 
till after potatoes are done, or some add it ten minutes before. Test 
with a fork and when tender, not longer, drain off ^// the water; if 
left on after they are done they become watery and waxy, sprinkle 
with salt, shake saucepan lightly, leave uncovered a few minutes, 
that all steam may evaporate ; then place on back of range or stove, 
leaving cover only partly on, or better, covering with a clean folded 
towel, as the moisture condenses on the inside of lid when they are 
tightly covered and falls upon potatoes, spoiling them. Potatoes thus 
prepared will keep good, quite awhile ; but are better served at once 
in an ojyen dish imth a, napkin over them, for the same reason as 
given above, the moisture making them soft and watery. This is 



POTATOES, 675 



I 



the great secret of having nice mealy potatoes. A pretty way is to 
have a Potato Doily made as the Fritter Doily, page 291 ; lay in 
dish, put in potatoes then hring the ends up over them ; of course 
two ordinary napkins may be used instead. Potatoes can be peeled 
before serving if wished. Always select same size, if possible, that 
they may be done at same time, as too much cooking spoils a po- 
tato. If using different sizes, put in largest first, then in a little 
while the rest, and one can plan to use the smaller potatoes for 
mashing or in any of the dishes where small potatoes are used. 
Some claim that after draining off water, taking them to the open 
air and shaking them makes them more mealy. Never place them 
on a hot fire after draining, but on bricks on stove, or on back 
of range. The best potato for boiling is a medium-sized one and 
not too old or sunburnt. Medium-sized potatoes, when young, will 
cook in from twenty to thirty minutes ; when old, it requires double 
the time. When peeled, they boil fifteen minutes quicker. If po- 
tatoes are very watery and they must be used for food, a small lump 
of lime added to the water while boiling will improve them. Dashed 
Potatoes, are boiled as above, in boiling unsalted water ; when 
tender, dash some cold water into pot ; let potatoes remain two 
minutes, and then drain off water ; half remove the pot lid, and 
let the potatoes remain on back of stove till steam is evaporated ; 
peel and serve in an open dish. Another way of boiling is to pare 
a strip about quarter of an inch wide, lengthwise, around each po- 
tato ; place in fresh cold water, not too much, let boil fifteen min- 
utes, then add a quart of cold water ; when the edges of the peel curl 
up, salt and remove potatoes to baking pan ; place in oven with a 
towel over them, and let remain fifteen minutes with oven door open, 
then serve as above. But however boiled, if they cannot be served 
at once, wrap closely in a towel and put in a warm place and they will 
keep quite nicely. For Waterless Potatoes, select same size,nottoo old 
or sun-burnt, wash, brush, but do not pare or cut; put in flat-bot- 
tomed saucepan, filling three-fourths full, cover tightly, this is very 
necessary, and place on stove with a moderately hot fire, or in oven. 
Shake saucepan occasionally but do not lift cover before forty min- 
utes. As soon as tender peel, or leave in jackets, and serve. They 
take longer time for cooking but are said to be of delicious flavor. 

Boiled Potatoes Without Jackets. — Pare and put in fresh boil- 
ing water. Keep closely covered and at a steady boil for at least 
twenty minutes, five or ten minutes more may be requisite, accord- 
ing to the quality of potato. Watch carefully, and the very instant 
they present a mealy and broken surface remove from stove, raise 
cover just enough to admit the draining off of water. This may be 
accomplished successfully and quickly, after a little practice, and is 
far better than turning them into a colander, thus suddenly chilling 
them and arresting further development of the starch, which, after 



676 POTATOES. 



all, is the main point to be accomplished. Drain water off thor- 
oughly and quickly, sprinkle in sufficient salt for seasoning, partly 
cover saucepan, give it a shake and set on back of stove, being care- 
ful not to have it too hot. In a minute or so give it another shake 
to stir up potatoes, throw in a little hot cream or rich milk with a 
lump of butter and a sprinkle of pepper, cover immediately and 
leave on stove for another minute. This last process adds greatly 
in making a mealy potato. They are ready now to be dished whole 
or mashed. It is always best to pare old potatoes. Or for Iloosier 
Potatoes, pare small old potatoes, or cut large ones to size of new ; 
place in cold water, let boil ten minutes, drain, cover with cold 
water, boil and drain as before ; repeat this once more, then after 
ch-aining, dress with milk, butter, pepper and salt as New Potatoes. 

Boiled New Potatoes. — Wash, scrape, or only rub with a cloth, 
boil ten minutes, turn off water, and add enough more boiling hot, 
to cover, also add a little salt; cook a few moments, test by press- 
ing one of the potatoes with a fork against the side of the saucepan, 
if done it will yield to a gentle pressure, drain, and set again on 
stove, add butter, salt, a pint cream or milk, thickened with two 
tablespoons flour, put on cover, and when milk has boiled, serve. 
Do not use too much water as they will boil more quickly, and are 
more savory if cooked in just enough water to keep from burning. 
Boiling water is generally considered best for new potatoes, always 
cooking in two waters as above ; some use a wire basket, 
phicing it in a kettle of boiling water, then have 
ready another saucepan of boiling water, and when the 
potatoes are half cooked lift them from the first and 
put them in the second. (This is considered equally 
nice for old potatoes). Serve with a dressing of melted 
butter ; taking for each quart potatoes, two tablespoons butter, tea- 
spoon salt and saltspoon white pepper ; and after placing potatoes in 
hot dish, pour it over them. Or make a dressing of cream and butter 
/w?!, but not boiling, a little green parsley, pepper and salt ; place pota- 
toes in pan, add this, let stand a minute or two over hot water, and 
serve in a hot dish. If potatoes are too old to have skins rubbed 
off, boil them in their jackets, paring off aring half inch wide around 
them ; drain, peel, and serve as above. Or for Browned JSfeio Po- 
tatoes when cooked and drained, put in a skillet with hot drippings, 
cover, and shake till a nice brown, and add, when ready to dish, a 
tablespoon baking molasses, dropping it on the potatoes and stirring 
constantly a moment or two, as it causes them to burn easily, then 
serving at once. The molasses browns them beautifully and makes 
them delicious. This is a nice way to brown any potatoes. Using 
Parsley Butter in the melted butter dressing, makQS a savory dish. 

Breakfast Potatoes. — Peel, cut in very thin slices and place in 
a very little boiling water, so little that it will all be evaporated 




POTATOES. 677 



when they are cooked ; when done add salt to taste, some cream, or 
a very little milk and a bit of butter. Or cook in water as above, 
then prepare a dressing as follows : Put a tablespoon butter in a 
saucepan, with one of flour, flavor with pepper and salt, chopped 
parsley and onions ; mix well and add a cup of cream, stir till it 
boils ; put in potatoes, boil up once and serve hot. They must 
be stirred occasionally while cooking. Or omit all dressing, drain, 
place in a hot dish, add a little salt, a few bits of butter, and serve 
at once. The slices may be steamed, it will take twice as long, but 
they are much better. Or for Marinated Potatoes^ cut in half 
inch slices and cook in highly seasoned and flavored soup or gravy 
stock; when just tender dip in beaten egg, or single-bread them if 
wished, and fry, drain and serve like Fritters. Squeezing over a 
little lemon juice is an addition. 

Broiled Potatoes. — Boil a quart of even-sized potatoes until 
tender, but do not let them grow mealy ; drain off" water, peel, cut 
in half inch slices, dip in melted butter, and broil on both sides 
over a moderate fire ; serve hot, seasoning with salt and pepper and 
bits of butter. Some dip in sifted bread-crumbs after dipping in 
butter. Or slice cold boiled potatoes lengthwise and broil as above, 
omitting the dipping if wished. The double broiler is nice for 
l)roiled potatoes when sliced. Or parboil, do not peel, but place 
them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire, when thoroughly 
done serve in their jackets. For Breaded Potatoes., slice as in first 
two recipes, single-bread (page 299) and fry in butter or drippings. 

Browned Potatoes. — Steam or boil small-sized potatoes, till 
tender, not mealy, peel and place in saucepan with melted butter, 
shake occasionally and when all are well browned serve upon thin 
sliiJes of toast which have been dipped in Chilli Sauce that has been 
thinned with a little weak vinegar. Or the toast may be omitted. 
This is a nice way to use the small potatoes, and is especially nice 
for old ones. They may also be fried in smoking-hot fat as dough- 
nuts. Or single-bread them and fry in either of above ways. 

Creamed Potatoes. — Slice raw potatoes thin as for frying, let 
stand in salted water for an hour or so to crisp them; drain, and 
place a layer in bottom of a buttered, earthen baking dish, dredge 
Avith flour and cover with bits of butter and a light seasoning of 
salt, then more potatoes, flour, butter and salt till all are used ; to a 
quart dish add about a half pint cream or rich milk and bake in 
oven till tender, about forty minutes. Or the sliced potatoes can 
all be put in dish at once, seasoned and the cream or milk poured 
over, adding bits of butter; or some prefer to cook first, then place 
butter as above, over the top, returning to oven a moment and serv- 
ing when nicely browned. The exact quantity of liquid can be 
learned by experience ; there must be just a little rich gravy left. 



678 POTATOES. 



moistening all the slices. This is an especially nice way to cook old 
or small potatoes. For Fricasseed Potatoes slice cold boiled pota- 
toes, put into a dripping-pan, add milk, salt, pepper and small piece 
of butter, allowing half pint milk to a dozen potatoes ; place in oven 
for about fifteen minutes, stir occasionally with a knife to keep from 
burning, and broAvn slightly on top. 

Curried Potatoes. — Slice either raw or cold boiled potatoes, 
fry, then add a gravy made of soup stock, seasoned with curry-pow- 
der, and boil a few moments. Or boil or steam potatoes, mash and 
add a little cream or milk, seasoned as above ; serve, first ornament- 
ing the top of dish with little slips of cold boiled ham. 

Diced Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled or steamed potatoes cross- 
wise in inch slices ; then cut in dice. Season with salt and pepper, 
dip in melted butter, then dust lightly with flour. Arrange on 
baking pans, bake in a quick oven and serve hot. Or make half- 
inch slices, cut in dice and fry in a little butter, cream and flour 
seasoned with pepper and salt, till hot and nicely coated with the 
sauce. Ov, In a C'flrX'e, chop in small, even dice; season palatably 
with salt and pepper, moisten slightly with cream, cold gravy, or 
white sauce, and form in a large cake, which must be pressed to- 
gether so that it can be browned uniformly on the side next the 
pan ; heat a frying-pan, put into it enough sweet drippings or but- 
ter to cover bottom, when fat is hot put in the potatoes, press them 
well together, and brown the under side ; when the potatoes are 
brown, turn them out of the pan on a hot dish, without breaking 
them, and serve them hot. This requires a very moderate fire as 
they are apt to Inirn. 

Fried Potatoes. — To be successful in thus cooking potatoes, 
the frying-pan should be well heated before butter, lard or dmp- 
])ings"is put in, and then made quite hot over not too brisk a fire ; 
for Fried Raw Potatoes., wash, peel, and slice rather thin in cold 
water, drain in a colander, some also wipe dry with a towel, and 
di'op in frying-pan prepared with two tablespoons melted butter or 
beef drippings, or one-half of each ; keep closely covered for ten 
minutes, only removing to stir with a knife from the bottom 
to ])revent burning; cook another ten minutes stirring frequent- 
ly until done and lightly browned. Serve at once, sprinkled 
with salt, as nothing spoils more quickly by standing than fried 
potatoes. For French Fried Potatoes.^ prepare as above, slicing 
as thin as an egg-shell, always cutting crosswise ; when butter is 
very hot in frying-pan, add potatoes and fry as above, shaking 
them so as to cook them equally ; drain on a sheet of kitchen pai)er 
placed in dripping pan in oven, a few minutes, sprinkle with salt 
and serve hot. Or, cut in fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter and 
fry in smoking-hot fat. To make them swell ; when fried take 



POTATOES. 679 



from the fat, put in colander, leave there only half a minute, then 
drop again in fat, fry one minute, drain, salt and serve hot. For 
Potatoes a la Pancake, peel, cut in quarter-inch slices, lengthwise, 
and fry in butter or drippings, putting in only one layer at a time 
and turning as pancakes. Or, cut lengthwise the size and shape of 
the divisions of an orange, trim them neatly and fry ; they are an 
excellent garnish for meat. Or With Onions, slice both fine, and 
place in a skillet with one spoonful of hot butter or lard, season 
with pepper and salt, and fry till done. Or if wanted more delicate, 
first parboil onions, then fry as above. Or With Bacon, first fry 
thin slices or dice of bacon, take out and keep hot, frying the po- 
tatoes in the bacon fat ; serve with potatoes in center of platter and 
bacon around them. 

Cold cooked potatoes can be prepared in any of above ways, 
slicing when cold, never when hot, in qaarter or half inch slices, and 
when fried as in first recipe, using oiily enough fat to prevent 
sticking, sprinkling with salt and cov ring with tin lid so they may 
both fry and steam; and in last reel" e, fry the diced bacon till al- 
most done, then add chopped, cola cooked potatoes and stir to- 
gether till nicely browned. For Fried Grated Potatoes, grate 
cold boiled potatoes, mix them with a little flour, melted butter, 
and salt until they form a stiff paste. Form a roll and slice this, as 
thick as two pieces of potato for frying. Single-bread and frv. 

Mashed. Potatoes. — Pare, if large cut in two, and boil till done ; 
drain and mash in kettle till perfectly smooth ; add cream or milk, 
butter and salt ; beat like cake with a large spoon or fork, the lat- 
ter is preferable, till light and foamy, they cannot be thus beaten 
too much ; dip out lightly into a hot dish and literally coax into a 
delicate mealy heap, instead of packing and smoothing into a 
shapely mass. Allow about a teacup cream or milk and piece of 
butter size of an egg to a dozen medium-sized potatoes. Some have 
the cream hot, thinking it makes them much nicer; others boil po- 
tatoes in jackets, then peel and prepare as above, using only the 
large fork without the masher, and when ingredients are added, po- 
tatoes very hot, dish lightly and draw the fork backward over the 
potatoes to make a rough surface, browning with a hot salmander, 
if liked. Some rub through a sieve with the potato masher, then 
dress and beat with the fork. But howe^ver prepared it is very es- 
sential to beat till 'very light and serve very hot, and of course 
there must not be any lumps. To keep hot for any length of time, 
place saucepan, or pan in which they were mashed, in a pan of hot 
water, and leave on back of stove. When potatoes are dished, those 
who prefer a smooth surface can smooth over top, making several 
holes in it with bowl of spoon, filling with pieces of butter and also 
dotting with a little black pepper; although if any pepper is used 
in seasoning, especially if mixed through the mashed potato, the 



680 POTATOES. 



white is preferable. Mashed potatoes may be made into any form 
of apples, pears, etc., by being molded with the hand; a clove in- 
serted for the eye of the fruit, and a piece of parsley stem for the 
stalk, then placed in oven till hot, or in a pan set in another of hot 
water on stove. For Browned Mashed Potatoes^ after mashed as 
above, heap on a small, oval platter, shape like a pyramid and 
perfectly smooth, then cover with a well-beaten egg and set in the 
oven to brown. Or add one or two well-beaten eggs, mix thoroughly, 
put in baking dish, dip a knife in sweet milk, smooth over, wetting 
every part with milk, and place in a hot oven twenty minutes. Or 
for Fried Mashed Potatoes^ add a little cream or milk to cold 
mashed potatoes, press evenly in pan and in morning slice and fry. 
For Panned Potatoes, take cold mashed potatoes, season with salt 
butter, and a little cream or milk, and one or two eggs ; place in a 
buttered pie pan, smooth and shape the top handsomely, make in 
squares Avith a knife and brown in oven, placing on top grate if too 
hot ; place pan on plate and serve. Whole cooked potatoes can be 
"panned" thus, by placing in pan on stove and adding little boil- 
ing water, tlien mashing and finishing as above. For a Puree of 
Potatoes, pare and boil six potatoes, drain them well, mash 
smoothly or beat them up with a fork ; add third of a pint stock or 
broth, and rub potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very 
clean saucepan with two tablespoons butter ; stir well over fire 
until thoroughly hot, and it will then be ready to serve. A puree 
should be rather thinner than mashed potatoes, and is a delicious 
accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets. Cream or 
milk may be substituted for the broth when the latter is not at 
hand. A Casserole of Potatoes, which is often used for ragouts in- 
stead of rice is made by having the above puree a little thicker, 
placing on jjlatter and making an opening in center. Brown in 
oven, wipe off platter, pour in the ragout or fricassee and serve. 
For Swedish Potatoes, take a small piece of ham bone, or end of 
piece of dried beef, and cook. When a well-flavored broth is made, 
add peeled potatoes and cook till tender ; skim out meat and if too 
much broth, pour off some, then mash and serve. Be careful not to 
put too much water over meat, for if needed when potatoes are jjut 
in, more can be added. Broth from boiled corned beef can be used 
instead of cooking any meat, adding part water if too salt. With 
Turni'ps, prepare as above adding peeled and sliced white turnips 
about half an hour before the potatoes ; when they are done skim 
out meat and finish as above. 

Molded Potatoes. — After mashing potatoes, shape in mold ; cut 
a flat piece of sheet iron, about an inch larger than the top of mold, 
with a wire handle at each end ; lay it upside down on the mold, 
invert, remove mold, cover potato with beaten yolk of an 
egg, then cover with sifted bread-crumbs ; wipe the edge of the sheet- 
iron, then plunge it instantly in a kettle of smoking-hot lard. The 



POTATOES. 681 



potato must be hot when put in mold, so it will require nothing 
more than browning ; and when this is perfect, lift the sheet from 
the lard, pass a knife between it and potato, and slide latter care- 
fully into the center of a platter, and garnish with curled parsley. 
Or take any cold potatoes ; mash with a fork until perfectly free from 
lumps ; stir in tablespoon each flour and butter, two of minced 
onion, and add sufficient milk to moisten well ; press potatoes in a 
mold, or baking dish and bake in a moderate oven until nicely 
brown, which will be in twenty minutes ; turn out and serve. 

Ringed Potatoes. — Peel large potatoes, cut them round and 
round in shavings, as if paring an apple. Fry with clean, sweet lard in 
a frying-pan till brown, stirring so as to brown all alike, drain on a 
sieve, sprinkle fine salt over them and serve ; or place in Avire basket 
and fry as fritters. These are used very often as a garnish and are 
then known as Potato Roses. Some after paring, let stand an hour 
or so in ice-cold water, draining and wiping with a towel before fry- 
ing ; when nearly done take out into colander for a few minutes, 
then put back in the kettle of fat and fry till done. This causes 
them to swell and they make a nice appearing dish when served. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — Pare and shave the potatoes in evry thin 
slices, like wafers, on the vegetable plane ; let stand from fifteen 
minutes to an hour in ice-cold water, some adding salt or a piece of 
alum, size of a pea, to a quart of water, to chill 
and crisp the slices ; drain and dry in a napkin. 
Separate the slices and drop in kettle of smoking- 
hot fat, tested as directed in Fritters, as many as 
will float on top without touching each other, care " '^'^E'^t^t'ie pianc. 
being taken not to fry too many at once ; some only put in eight or 
ten slices. Keep them separated by means of a fork, turning when 
the edges begin to color ; and before this when slices commence to 
cook one must watch very closely, as although they cook slowly at 
first, they finish very quickly, and after turning will soon be a 
golden brown ; when skim out with a wire spoon and put either in 
a paper-lined colander or dripping-pan, set in oven or back of range ; 
sprinkle with- salt, and continue to thus fry and drain till all are 
prepared. Three medium-sized potatoes will be sufficient for four 
persons. Serve, either hot or cold, on a platter and they are also 
pretty used as a garnish. They can be kept nice and crisp in a dry 
warm place, and may be prepared quite awhile before serving, if 
necessary. When they are bought, always reheat in oven before 
using. The length of time of standing in water is immaterial, be- 
ing governed by the wants of the cook. Use kitchen, or any brown 
paper for placing in colander or pan. Castle Potatoes are sliced 
lengthwise, half inch thick and fried as above. Potatoes a la Maca- 
roni are made by cutting with a special machine in inch strips 
resembling macaroni, only square instead of round and fried as 




682 POTATOES. 





Saratogas. For a breakfast dish Triangle Potatoes are much 
prized; pare small potatoes, divide in halves 
then in three pieces; place ten or twelve tri- 
angles in frying basket and immerse in the hot 
fat eight or ten minutes. Drain as above and 
serve. Ver}^ small ones can be fried whole. Cold 
cooked potatoes may be prepared in same way 
and also as Castle Potatoes. Some fry Sara- 
toga potatoes, a half pint or so at a time, in the 
frying basket ; and there is also "a regular Sara- 
toga Potato Kettle. In frying potatoes in basket 
as soon as fat is smoking hot again after putting 
them in, set back where potatoes will not cook Saratoga potato Ketue. 
too fast. If the cooking is too rapid they will be brown before they 
are crisp, especially if fried in a quantity in the basket, which is a 
quicker way but potatoes are not so nice. 

Scalloped Potatoes. — Season, add cream to mashed potato and 
lay in scallop shells, smooth the surface with blade of knife, and then 
score them across ; lay thin slices of butter upon them, and bake 
until well browned, serve hot in the shells. Or cut one quart cold 
boiled potatoes in very thin slices, and season well 
with salt and pepper. Butter an earthen baking dish. 
Cover bottom with layer of White Sauce, add layer of 
Scallop Shell. potatocs, sprluklc with chopped parsley, then another 
layer of sauce, then potatoes, and so on till all are used. Have 
sauce for last layer and cover with fine bread-crumbs, put a spoon- 
ful butter in little bits on top, and cook twenty minutes. A cup of 
chopped ham or any kind of meats may be used with potatoes. Or 
cut in rather thick slices, with some bread in same-sized pieces 
(without any crust), and place bread and potatoes in the dish, al- 
ternating the layers. Cover wath White Sauce in which a bay leaf 
lias been cooked. Strew sugar upon the top and slightly brown in 
oven. Or for Sauced Potatoes, prepare as in second recipe, plac- 
ing all the potatoes in dish, then covering with the sauce and bread- 
crumbs ; or the potatoes may be sliced raw, cooked in a little water 
till tender, then placed in dish and finished as above. Use cream, 
milk, or water in making the sauce as directed on page 178. 

Steamed Potatoes. — Prepare as for boiled potatoes or draw the 
edge of a sharp knife half way around them, cutting third of an 
inch deep ; place in patent steamer, or steam over a kettle of w^ater 
and cook till skin cracks and a forb :r.£;ily penetrates the center, 
sprinkle with salt and serve at once, or if tO oe kept, leave in steamer, 
oi^er the iire. Some peel before serving, then salt, and it is nice to 
place them in oven for a few minutes and dish very hot. For 
Bukeije Potatoes, pare and steam as above ; if large cut in two 
pieces, cutting out any defective parts. Steaming is a much better 
Avay of cooking old potatoes and also when to be served as Mashed 



POTATOES. 683 



Potatoes ; pare and steam as above and have ready in crock or tin 
pan a cup of hot cream or milk, with a lump of butter and a season- 
ing of salt and white pepper, if wished ; place the above in a pan of 
hot water and when potatoes are done add them, mash and heat till 
almost a white foam ; then pile lightly in a hot dish and serve at 
once or brown slightly in oven. Having all ingredients hot makes a 
more delicious dish. Steamed potatoes will cook in about forty min- 
utes and it is better not to lift cover till done. 

Stewed Potatoes.— Pwi in saucepan a tablespoon butter, when 
melted add a level tablespoon flour, cook a few minutes and add a 
scant pint milk or cream, season with salt and pepper ; when it 
boils add a pint shced, cold, boiled potatoes, cover and cook till po- 
tatoes are thoroughly heat#d, about ten minutes ; stir once or twice, 
or if cooked in custard kettle will not need it. Some add table- 
spoon finely-chopped parsley, and just before serving, place on back 
of stove and when boiling has ceased, stir in yolk of an egg beaten 
with a teaspoon water and for Walnut House Potatoes use soup or 
gravy stock instead of milk, adding with the egg, or two if liked, a 
teaspoon lemon juice and another tablespoon butter. Potatoes may 
be cut m dice or quarter-inch slices. For Potatoes a la Maitre d' 
Hotel, cook as m first recipe, omitting the milk and adding the 
parsley with juice of half a lemon ; stir well in this sauce and serve 
very hot. Some add three or four tablepoons gravy from roast 
meat or good gravy stock. Parsley Butter may/ be used instead of 
the plain butter in any of the recipes, omitting the parsley, and 
makes a clelicious seasoning. For Lactiola Potatoes, cut cold po- 
tatoes quite small or in dice and put them in saucepan with milk 
enough to almost cover them. When the milk becomes hot, stir 
and mash potatoes with a large spoon until there are no lumps 
Add salt, and a small bit of butter, stir often, until quite dry. They 
are nicer when cooked with plenty of milk, necessitating a great 
deal of stirring to prepare for serving. Or With Onions, make a 
sauce ol melted butter and thinly sliced onions, fry brown, thicken 
with flour, thin with sou]) stock, add chopped parsley, salt and a 
little fresh cream, stir well, let boil and, when thick, put in the cold 
sliced potatoes and when they are hot, serve. Some use sour cream 
tor this thinking it nicer, and a Gopher Dressing for Boiled or 
Baked Potatoes, to be used at table in place of butter or gravy is 
simply sour cream. A nice Southern dish With Bacon is to brown 
m Irying-pan a dozen thinly-sliced pieces of the latter, add a table- 
spoon flour and when well mixed, half pint boiling Avater ; then put 
in a scant pint of sliced potatoes and Avhen hot serve. Or With 
Vinegwr, cook as above using gravy stock, or broth from boihng 
either fresh or corned beef, instead of the water, and add with it two 
tablespoons vinegar. The pieces of bacon may be taken out, or but- 
ter used instead, if preferred. These last two recipes are nice made 
with raw potatoes, shced as above, or whole if very small using 



684 POTATOES. 



twice as much liquid and cooking till potatoes are tender. A bunch 
of sweet herbs added gives a delicious flavor, removing when served. 

Stuifed Potatoes. — Wash ten large potatoes with a brush ; bake 
only until tender not mealy, not more than half an hour ; cut off one 
end, scoop out inside with teaspoon, rub through a sieve or mash 
thoroughly, put in saucepan containing two table- i^jgE^^-v^ 
spoons butter, three of grated Parmesan cheese, ^^^iSS^B^W 
saltspoon white pepper and teaspoon salt, adding ^^tmdJ^^B^ 
a little boiling milk, stir all over fire until scalding stuffed Potatoes, 

hot ; then fill potato shells with mixture, put on ends, press potato 
gently in shape, heat them in the oven, and serve in a napkin placed 
in a hot dish. Or do not put on tops but sprinkle over a mixture 
of bread-crumbs and grated cheese. 0#omit all the cheese and 
bread-crumbs, fill the shells heaping full, brown delicately in 
oven or with a hot salamander and serve as illustrated. Or 
take rather large cold steamed (pared) potatoes, cut off 
tops, and with round-topped knife carefully remove most of 
inside, leaving simply a protecting wall ; fill with chopped raw 
oysters slightly seasoned with pepper and salt and mixed with an 
egg : cover with tops, moistening edges with white of egg to make 
them adhere, and place in warm, not hot, oven for a few minutes, 
then single-bread and fry in hot lard. Or wash and pare eight large 
l")otatoes, cut off about an inch of smallest end, and with a knife or 
strong spoon scrape out center, leaving a shell about a third of an 
inch in thickness ; throw them with the tops cut off in cold water 
to keep them white. Then chop fine a pound of beefsteak, season 
with salt, pepper, pinch cayenne and desertspoon mushroom cat- 
sup, and pack mixture firmly in potatoes, first wiping them dry 
with a towel ; pin tops on with wooden toothpicks, brush all over 
with beaten egg, stand in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, 
made hot, cover and cook slowly one hour, turning occasionally to 
brown all sides evenly. Or fill with sausage, minced fish, or any force- 
meat, brush over with melted butter and bake in oven about forty 
minutes. The potato may be cut in halves, then scooped out, filled 
and a bit of butter placed on top the filling and baked in oven. It 
will be necessary to cut a little piece off bottom of potato so they 
will stand firmly. 



Potato Balls. — Stir into nicely seasoned mashed potatoes, 
beaten yolks of one or two eggs; make in small balls, single-bread 
and brown in oven ; or fry in frying-pan or as fritters. A little pars- 
ley or chopped onion may be added. Or With Meat, mix with one 
pint mashed potato, a tablespoon butter, two of cream and season 
with salt and white pepper, add beaten yolks of two eggs and scant 
half pint grated cold ham, and lastly the well-frothed whites. Make 



POTATOES. 685 



in balls, flouring the hands slightly, roll the former in flour and fry 
^»— -/ ^ ^^ above. Nice served in center of platter, 

' ^^ surrounded by Brown Sauce or any good 

gravy. Or for Potato a la Parisienne, cut balls with a vegetable 
cutter from either cooked or raw potatoes and fry as above. If from 
the latter boil in water eight minutes then fry. Season with a lit- 
tle pepper, salt and chopped parsley. 

Potato Biscuits. — To a pint mashed potatoes, add one beaten 
egg, when perfectly smooth acid sufiiciejit sugar to make quite sweet ; 
add well-frothed whites of four eggs, apinch salt and a desertspoon of 
orange-flower water,or any flavoring wished, and place in either round 
or oblongbiscuitSjUpon apaper-lined pan as Lady Fingers. Bake slow- 
ly until nicely browned and remove paperwhen iDiscuits are cold. For 
Potato Sandwiches., take mashed potato, add pinch salt, a little 
milk and sufficient flour to make a light dough ; roll out rather 
thin, cut into squares and toast in folding wire toaster, or broil on 
a gridiron ; place two together with a little butter between, and serve 
hot. One of the nicest surprises is a Potato Surprise, grate cold 
boiled or steamed potatoes, or use mashed ones, one quart when pre- 
pared, add a little salt, flour enough to make a 
firm dough, about a heaping pint, roll out half 
inch thick on floured board, and cut in cakes 

with a large biscuit-cutter ; or instead of rolling 

out take a piece of the dough in the hands potato surpri- 

(flouring them) and mold to same shape. Have small dice of 
fresh ham, slightly fried, and place a few in the center of each cake, 
bring the dough up over them, pinch together and roll in the hands ; 
or place the meat on half the circle, fold over like a turn-over, and 
pinch edges well together ; place in boiliiag water, cover and cook till 
done, being careful not to boil very hard ; or place on buttered pie 
pan and bake in oven ; or fry as fritters, or in frying-pan. Serve with 
any nice gravy. Any fresh or chopped cold meat may be used. 

Potato Cahes. — Mix thoroughly with cold, mashed potatoes, the 
well-beaten yolk of an egg ; make into small cakes,with floured hands, 
place in hot skillet with a tablespoon butter or ham or beef- 
drippings, cover tightly, and, in five minutes, when lower side is 
browned, remove cover, turn, fry until the other side is a nice brown ; 
serve hot. Some add a little flour to the mixture, and they may be 
brushed with Pastry Glaze and baked in oven, when they are known 
as Duchessse Potatoes ; a more elaborate recipe is, to one pint hot 
mashed potatoes, rubbed through the colander, add tablespoon but- 
ter, well-beaten yolks of tw^o eggs, with a seasoning of salt, pepper 
and grated nutmeg ; form into cakes, place on a buttered pie pan, 
brush over as above and broAvn in oven. Or for a Potato Cake, take 
a pint mashed potatoes ; mix with them five tablespoons flour, two 
of butter, salt and pepper, and as much lukewarm milk as will make 




686 POTATOES. 



a smooth, firm dough ; add one egg and half teaspoon baking pow- 
der. Roll paste out with a rolling-pin till it is nearly two inches 
thick ; dredge a little flour over and cut it out the exact size of the 
frying-pan. Rub pan over with butter, lay cake carefully into it, 
cover and shake every now and then to prevent burning ; when 
brown on one side turn it over carefully on the other. Serve on a 
hot dish with plenty of good fresh butter. Sweet Potatoes may be 
prepared in same way. Or for Potato Fiiddinff, \\iish, -peel, and 
grate six or eight potatoes ; add four tablespoons each sugar and melt- 
ed butter or dripping, one teaspoon salt and quarter teaspoon 
pepper, mix well together, place in buttered baking dish, and put it 
into a brisk oven until it is done, and nicely browned. Some add 
grated rind and juice of half a lemon and yolks of two or three eggs. 

Potato Croquettes. — Pare six potatoes ; cut in small pieces, put 
in boiling water and cook till soft ; drain, and put through a colan- 
der, mix three eggs (one at a time) with the potatoes; add two 
tablespoons bread-crumbs and a little salt. Cook, stirring con- 
stantly ; when thoroughly heated take off, let cool, roll into l)alls 
and fry in hot lard as directed in Fritters and Croquettes. Sweet 
Potatoes prepared in same way. Or cook as above one pint mashed 
potato, gill milk, three tablespoons each butter and sugar, a little 
nutmeg and teaspoon salt. Take off and add two well-beaten yolks, 
stir until very smooth and light, spread, about half an inch deep, on 
a buttered dish and set away to cool. When cold, cut in squares, 
single-bread, using the whites, and fry as above. Serve immediately. 
Or roast a dozen line potatoes : When done, scrape out the interior, 
which form into a ball. When cold put into a 
^^' mortar and mix with six tablespoons butter, sea- 
^^ son with a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley and 
Potato Croquettes. sliallots aud gratcd nutmeg. Add beaten yolks 
of four and two whole eggs, form into croquettes the size of a small 
pear, or in a small roll; double-egg-bread, page 299, and fry in a ket- 
tle of hot fat or in a little butter or drippings in frying-pan. (iarn- 
ish with sprigs of fresh green parsley, and serve very hot. Or Wit/i 
Gravf/, cook them in boiling gravy or milk. When done serve them 
in the sauce. If preferred, a little anchovy, shrimp, parsley, or lobster 
butter may be used in place of the herbs, etc. 

Potato Flour. — Peel, and grate potatoes into an earthen pan, 
filled with pure, soft cold water ; when the Avater begins to clear 1)^ 
the settling of pulp to bottom, pour it off gently and add more, stir 
pulp with hand, rub through a hair sieve, pour on more water, let 
stand until clear, pour off and renew again, repeating several times 
until the farina is perfectly white and water clear. The air darkens 
it and it must be kept in the water as much as possible during the 
process. Spread the prepared farina before fire, covering with paper 
to keep it from dust; when dry, pulverize it, sift, bottle, and cork 




POTATOES. 687 



tightly. Potato Jelly is made by rubbing to a smooth powder, witli 
the back of a spoon, equal quantities potato flour and sugar and 
pouring over them boiling water, till proper consistency ; flavor as 
preferred. This is quite as nourishing as arrowroot, and possesses 
the great advantage of not turning watery when it grows cold. Two 
heaping teaspoons each of flour and sugar will be found to be suf- 
ficient for half a pint. For Potato Blanc-mange make a stiff jelly 
and while hot, stir into it almonds, blanched and pounded. 

Potato Fritters. — Put five tablespoons flour into a bowl, mix 
with it teaspoon salt and half of white pepper, pour tablespoon salad 
oil into center and over this a gill tepid water, beating all well to- 
gether ; add well-beaten white of egg, stirring very carefully in order 
not to break the froth. Quarter five boiled potatoes, and dip each 
piece separately in batter. Drop in hot clarified fat, fry three min- 
utes, drain, and serve hot. 

Potato Omelet. — Take three or four steamed potatoes, mash, 
season, and add a little cream ; then stir this with the yolks of six 
eggs and the whites of two. Fry till browned on one side, fold and 
serve at oijce. Or quarter four cold boiled potatoes, cut in thin 
slices or dice, season and add beaten yolks of four eggs, and lastly 
the well-frothed whites and fry as any omelet. 

Potato Pancalces. — To two grated large raw potatoes add two 
beaten eggs, a tablespoon thick cream, salt and pepper, a little spice, 
and if wished, a little grated lemon peel. Drop a spoonful at a time 
into a skillet in which is some melted butter or beef drippings ; 
spread out rather thin ; when brown on both sides sprinkle a little 
sugar on them and serve. 

Potato Pickles. — Wash and j^eel some very early potatoes, ctit 
in long thin slips, and pass through two or three waters ; drain, 
place in a cloth, and sprinkle with fine salt ; let remain for half an 
hour, rub dry in the cloth, and put them into a cold pickle of spiced 
vinegar to which a clove of garlic (bruised) or sliced shallot has 
been added. This pickle should be very crisp and is nice when 
made with Tarragon or any flavored vinegar, spiced. A few slices 
of boiled beets will give a fine color. Some cook slightly at first. 

Potato Pie. — Make a crust as for chicken or beefsteak pie, line 
a deep pie pan and fill with freshty cooked potatoes mashed and 
seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, butter, and cream ; over this 
sprinkle a little summer savory, if liked, or sprinkle with a little 
catsup, chowchow or any fine pickle, cover with crust, and bake in 
quick oven until crusts are done ; serve with fried chicken, veal cut- 
let«», or any other meats wdth which a brown gravy is served. Or for 
a Deep Potato Pie, take a small quantity of meat of any kind — half 
pound is sufficient J and bacon, ham, potted fish with hard-boiled eggs, 



688 POTATOES. 



odds and ends of beef, or poultry, will answer the purpose ; cut any 
of these into pieces, lay in bottom of baking dish, season ; pare and 
slice a quart of raw potatoes, place over meat, strew over bits of but- 
ter, cover with a crust if liked or sprinkle with bread-crumbs, or 
omit either, and bake in rather a slow oven. Sliced cooked potatoes 
can be used, making an economical and palatable way of serving up 
odd scraps ; if any sauce, such as bread, parsley, white, etc., is left, 
it may also be added to the pie, and if wished the meat can be omit- 
ed if sauce is used ; or mashed potatoes may be taken, putting in 
layers with chopped pickles over each layer of meat ; or other cook- 
ed vegetables, such as spinach, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., may be 
used in place of meat. There should l)e about three times as much 
potato as meat, fish or vegetables. When cooked, fresh fish is used, 
mix a raw egg with it instead of slices of hard-boiled eggs, as above. 

Potato Puffs. — Beat three cups mashed potatoes to a cream 
with quarter cup butter, add three well-beaten yolks, half cup sweet 
cream, or part milk, tablespoon sugar and pinch of salt with the 
well-frothed whites. Bake in spoonfuls on a well-buttered pan in a 
quick oven ; when done, slip a knife under, slide upon a hot platter 
and serve at once, garnished with parsley. 

Potato Rolls. — Wash medium-sized potatoes, pare and cut in 
the form of small rolls of about three inches in length and an inch 
and a half across ; dip into beaten egg, wrap each in a thin sHce of 
fat bacon large enough to envelop it, and pin together with wooden 
toothpicks ; arrange in a small baking-dish, put into a moderately 
hot oven, and bake until the potatoes are done ; grate a little toast 
U])on them and serve at once. Or take equal quantities of cooked 
fresh meat of any kind, or game or poultry, and fresh butter, and 
twice the quantity of mashed potatoes ; pound all together in a mor- 
tar, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; add some raw egg to 
make it of the proper consistency; roll portions of it in a little flour, 
giving them the form of rolls; poach them in boiling water; 
drain them ; let them become cold ; dip them into beaten egg, then 
into melted butter, and fry until nicely browned on all sides ; serve 
Avith a rich gravy sauce. A small portion of sausage meat, mixed 
with some mashed potatoes and treated same makes a delicious dish. 

Potato Salad. — Cut pieces of streaky bacon, or ham, into small 
neat dice, fry slowly in frying-pan for a minute or so, then add two 
medium-sized finely-chopped onions, stir well Avith meat, dredge 
with flour and cook till onions are alight brown, add salt, four table- 
spoons vinegar, a little pepper and half pint water, or if vinegar not 
very strong use more of it and less water, stir well and pour over 
sliced boiled potatoes. 

Potato Slaw. — Slice six or eight cold boiled potatoes into a 
crock, with one large or two or three small onions, season with salt 



POTATOES 689 



and pepper and pour cup vinegar over. Heat two tablespoons drip- 
pnigs and pour over very hot, stir all well together with a fork, tak- 
ing care not to break potatoes ; let stand four or five hours, stir 
again, put in dish and serve. More onions may be added if liked. 
Make from cold potatoes left at dinner and Avill be ready for tea. 

Potato SouMe. — Boil five good-sized mealy potatoes, pass 
through a sieve ; scald in a clean saucepan half cup sweet milk and 
tablespoon butter, add to potato with a little salt and pepper, and 
1)eat to a cream ; add one at a time, yolks of four eggs, beating thor- 
oughly, drop a small pinch salt into whites and beat to a stiff froth, 
luld, mixing as lightly as possible ; have ready a well-buttered souffle 
or baking dish, large enough to permit the souffle to rise without 
running over; bake twenty minutes in a brisk oven, serve at once in 
the same dish in which it was baked, placing in the ornamental 
receptacle as described on page 125; or tying on ihe Knitted Cover, 
crocheted of white tidy yarn, with cord and tassels at top so it can 
be drawn tightly around the top edge of the baking dish, thus mak- 
ing a pretty bottom cover for anything served in dish in which it was 
baked. The souffle should be eaten with meats that have gravies. 

Potato Soup. — Pare and slice four large potatoes, cover with 
water, cpok till 'tender and rub all through colander; add to this a 
quart of rich milk, two tablespoons butter and season with salt and 
pepper ; boil up once and serve. Some add a tablespoon each chop- 
})ed onion, celery and parsley, speck of cavenne and half tablespoon 
flour made smooth in a little milk. Strain into tureen and serve 
with croutons of toasted bread. If wished richer, use only a pint of 
inilk, and put two well-beaten eggs in tureen, stirring rapidly while 
pouring in the soup. Some do not strain the soup. 

Potato Stew. — Boil one pound salt pork in two quarts water ; 
when done, take out, add twelve raw potatoes and two onions sliced', 
or if very small leave potatoes whole ; cook three-quarters of an 
hour, and add tablespoon butter and cup milk mixed with a beaten 
egg ; boil a moment or two and serve ; or if not wished with as 
much liquid, prepare the dressing of butter, milk and egg in sauce- 
pan, skim out potatoes and onions, add, and boil up once in it. 
Score the meat and brown in oven and serve. If quite salt soak a 
httle while before cooking. Or Without Meat, place three table- 
spoons lara, drippings or butter in saucepan, when hot, mix in two 
of flour, and add about three pints water; when boiling, add twelve 
sliced raw potatoes with salt and pepper. Stir occasionally and 
when done, serve hot. 

Potato Snoto.— Boil fine, white, mealy potatoes, drain off, and 
set on back of stove with a cloth over them till they are quite dry 
and fall apart ; then, using a potato masher, rub through a hot col- 
ander, or coarse wire sieve upon the hot dish in which to be served 



690 POTATOES. 




taking care not to crush the snow as it falls, never touching it. It 
will drop in long coils, which heap themselves up invitingly, or hy 
shaking the colander lightly, every other minute, it will fall off in 
short grains and is known as Potato Rice. In either case only rul) 
a small quantity through at a time, and do not let the colander 
touch the potato. Some boil in their jackets, and others first mash 
th-3m, then finish as above. Sprinkle with salt, and a very little 
sugar, if wished, and serve very hot. For Granite Potatoes, boil 
and mash, adding hot cream or milk, butter and salt as in Mashed 
Potatoes, only making more moist, then rub through a colander as 
above. It is well to have the dish in a pan of hot water on the 
stove, when preparing snow, place in hot oven a moment, then serve. 

Potato Whip. — Take a pint of steamed potatoes and whip them 
i^ery light with a silver fork, adding half cup cream or milk, two 
tablespoons butter, yolks of tv.-o eggs and seasoning to taste. When 
as light as a, feather add the well-frothed whites, and heap lightly, 
without snn)othing, in a quart souffle or baking dish, slightly but- 
tered, and brown quickly in oven, or 
use a hot salamander. If wanted ex- ^— "^^^^i^— 
tra nice, use whites of two more eggs. 
Or, With Meat add tablespoon each, salamander. 

grated onion and minced parsley Avith a gill or more of grated, cold 
cooked ham. Pile in dish and sprinkle with sifted bread-crumbs or 
grated cheese, if liked ; brown and serve as above. 

Potatoes With Ham. — Grate four or five cooked, mealy pota- 
tofcs, beat to a cream three or four tablespoons butter, add gradually 
two whole eggs and two yolks ; beat well and add half pint finely- 
grated, cooked ham. Put in a buttered baking dish and steam or 
l)ake ; when done, sprinkle with grated cheese and brown lightly. 
Or With Fish, place the roe of a fish in baking dish, chop two cold 
potatoes, put upon fish, strew bits of butter over and place for twenty 
miimtes in a moderately hot oven. 

Potatoes With Kidney. — Take a sheep's kidney, or a piece of 
calf's liver of an equivalent size, chop finely and season with salt, 
spices, and a few herbs finely chopped ; add to it a tablespoon but- 
ter cut in bits ; chop up four medium-sized raw potatoes, well 
washed and peeled, mix thoroughly with meat, place in buttered 
baking dish, sift over bread-crumbs, and bake for three-quarters of 
an !iour in a slow oven ; serve in dish in which it was baked. A lit- 
tle shalot or onion may be added if wished. Or With Calhage, 
either mash some hot, or finely chop some cold potatoes, season 
with pepper and salt, and add to them just enough boiled young 
cabbage to give nice green color to pt)tatoes ; add butter, and either 
fry quickly, or bake as above. It may be fried after pieces of bacon, 
and both be arranged together in dish. 



POTATOES. 691 



Potatoes With Onions. — Boil potatoes in skins, peel while hot 
and slice ; let sliced onions stand in salt and water an hour, then 
put them in frying-pan with a little ham gravy or butter and a little 
water, cook slightly, skim out and put in vegetable dish first a layer 
of onions, then potatoes, then onions, etc., with potatoes last ; add a 
cup of vinegar to frying-pan in which the onions were cooked ; let 
boil and pour over the vegetables. The proportions of onions and 
potatoes can be half and half or as wished. For Galveston Pota- 
toes, boil potatoes ; when done, mash, season with salt, pepper and 
butter ; mince a large onion very fine, mix well through the po!a- 
toes, put in baking dish and brown in oven ; or for Potato Loaves, 
place spoonfuls of above under and around meat, when roasting, 
about fifteen minutes before latter is done ; baste the little loaves, so 
they will brown nicely. For the well-known Lyonaise Potatoes, put 
two tablespoons butter or drippings in a frying-pan and add two 
sliced onions ; when they begin to color add cold potatoes, sliced in 
quarter-inch slices or ciit in dice, using about eight potatoes ; shake 
or stir them gently till a golden brown, add a tablespoon of finely 
chop])ed parsley, "mix through slightly and serve very hot. Some 
add juice of a lemon just before serving, and others drain dry l)y 
shaking in a heated colander. 

Potatoes for Garnishinff.—Take potatoes sufficient in number 
to decorate a dish ; wash, peel, and cut in any form fancied — whether 
balls, pine-apples, stars, diamonds, etc. ; let stand in salted water a 
little while, dry upon a towel, and place at bottom of saucepan, 
cover with clarified butter, bring quickly to a boil, and tlien cook 
slowly till of a fine golden brown ; drain, and fry lightly in frying- 
pan with butter, adding a little veal glaze. Letihem be ready just 
in time for the dish they are to garnish. Or mash and fry in spoon- 
fuls in a frying-pan with drippings or a little butter and place upon 
small collops of calf's liver or meat of any kind, or arrange them in 
a rim round a dish of fried sausages. Or, for a Potato Border' pare 
and boil fine medium-sized potatoes, mash and beat with a large fork 
till light as a feather ; add tablespoon butter, teaspoon 
salt, yolks of two eggs, (the whites make it more 
difficult to form in shape) and three-quarters of a 
gill of hot cream ; mix well, press the potato tightly in 
the crown mold and let stand fifteen minutes in a warm 
place; then turn out carefully on platter, brush with 
Pastry Glaze, brown in oven and fill center with a ragout, fricassee 
or whatever wished. 

Baked Svieet-potatoes. — Wash, and bake in oven in their jack- 
ets one hour, and serve without peeling ; or With Meat, steam or 
lioil them, remove skins, place in pan around the meat and baste 
often, browning nicely ; or they may be put around the meat with- 
out first cooking, but are not as nice and will not brown well. If 




692 POTATOES. 



large cut in tv.o lengthwise or even quarter them, and turn as needed. 
Sweet-potatoes are delicious with Roast Pork. For Carolina Sweet- 
potatoes, slice raw potatoes, put in baking dish, sprinkle with sugar 
and more than cover Avith water ; cover the dish and bake about two 
hours. The syrup-gravy is much prized. Or for Texas Sweet-])o- 
tatoes, peel, place in pan, pouring a little hot water over them, set 
in oven and bake, turning them so as to brown evenl}- ; pour in 
more water as needed ; let the pan be about dry when they are done. 
Serve on hot dish. Or boil or steam till nearly done, peel and cut 
in*lengthwise slices ; put a laj'er of potatoes with bits of butter dot- 
ted over them, and sprinkle well with sugar ; add another layer of 
potatoes, butter, and sugar, until dish is full. Add very Jittle water, 
and bake. For Perfection Sweet-potatoes, slice cold boiled pota- 
toes crosswise, in half-inch slices ; dip in egg then in farina, and 
sprinkle over with sugar. Place in a hot dripping-pan and' dot each 
piece with a bit of butter and brown in oven about ten minutes. 
Serve on a hot dish. For Roasted Sweet-potatoes, roast in ashes, as 
Irish potatoes, remove skin and serve. They have a delicious and 
peculiar flavor so cooked. Sweet-potatoes prepared in any wa}^ are 
especially nice served with chicken. Always cut off ends, when pre- 
paring for baking, the same as Irish potatoes . 

Boiled Sweet-p)otatoes. — Wash and boil as Irish potatoes, with- 
out any salt ; when tender, peel and place in oven to dry and brown 
delicately, if wished. Serve like Irish potatoes, a dressing of melted 
butter being nice. The best way to cook them is as Steamed Sweet- 
potatoes, finishing as above. For Mashed Potatoes, boil or steam 
and prepare as Irish potatoes. However cooked, they require more 
time than the Irish# 

Browned Sroeet-potatoes. — Put in a frying-pan half cup each 
butter and lard, cup sugar, and pint water ; pare potatoes, slice length- 
wise if large, add and keep closely covered, boil until water boils away, 
then brown nicely but do not let burn. After removing potatoes, 
pour in cup cream, let poll and pour over potatoes. Serve hot. Or 
cut cold boiled potatoes in thick slices and season. Have butter or 
drippings in frying-pan and add slices to cover the bottom ; brown 
and turn as pancakes. Sliced raw ones may be prepared same, be- 
ing careful not to cook too long as they will become hard. Par- 
snips may be browned as above. 

Fried Sweet-potatoes. — Peel, slice, and drop in smoking-hot 
fat, turning to nicely brown both sides, or fry sliced cooked ones 
same ; or single-bread, some using flour instead of crumbs and fry. 

Glazed Sweet-potatoes.— Bo\\ till tender, peel carefully, and lay 
in buttered dripping-pan, in a good oven; as they begin to crust 
over, baste with a little butter, repeating this several times as they 
brown ; when glossy and a golden color, dish and serve while hot. 



POTATOES. 693 



Stewed Sweet-potato. — Peel and slice a quart of sweet potatoes, 
put them over the fire in boiling water to cover, and boil till tender ; 
drain, and add to them a heaping tablespoon butter, saltspoon salt, 
and enough milk to cover ; let boil and serve at once, if allowed to 
cook after tender they will soon break. 

Sweet-potato Cal'es. — Boil, remove skins, and rub potatoes 
through a coarse colander ; make into flat cakes, dip in flour and 
fry in hot butter. For Biscuits, mash well four medium-sized cold 
boiled sweet-potatoes, add four tablespoons flour, piece of butter 
and a little milk to make a dough as for biscuit dough. Roll on 
pastry board, cut with biscuit-cutter, and place in a floured baking 
pan. If oven is very hot, put upper grate under pan and a piece of 
paper over cakes to render them more moist. 

Sweet-potato Cheesecakes.— ^Q^t quarter of a pint butter with 
three or four potatoes (quarter of a pound), well mashed ; add yolks 
of two or three eggs, gill sugar, quarter pound dried currants, pre- 
pared as for cake ; beat Avell, then add hghtly the well-frothed whites, 
and rind and juice of a lemon, which causes it to curd. Line patty- 
pans with a rich Puff Paste, place a heaping teaspoon of mixture in 
each and bake in a quick oven. These are very delicious and equal- 
ly nice made with Irish potatoes. 



694 POULTRY. 



POULTRY. 



What can be more tempting to the epicure than a handsomely 
browned and crusted fowl? And although poultry is not considered 
equal to fish as a food for brain-workers, it contains more of the 
muscle-making and heat-producing elements than beef or veal. This 
is especially the case with the thighs and legs of chickens and turk- 
eys, which are far superior to the breast as real food. The latter is 
dry and somewhat tasteless while the former is juicy and of rich 
flavor. While this is true of poultry and the larger game ; with birds 
which live "on the wing" it is just the opposite; their breasts are 
juicy and more nutritious while the meat on the thighs is poor and 
dry. There are many ways of preparing poultry besides the tempt- 
ing roast, which make delicious and dainty dishes ; but the first 
secret of success lies in the care of, killing, picking, singeing, plump_ 
ing, cutting up and dressing of chickens and turkeys. Very full 
and complete directions for which are given, in Cutting and Curing 
Meats in the back part of book. After a fowl is nicely dressed, if to 
be served whole, it can still be made to look more plump by flatten- 
ing the breast bone ; place several thicknesses of cloth over the lat- 
ter and pound it, being careful not to break the skin ; then rub in- 
side well with salt and pepper. Make any stuffing or force-meat 
wished and stuff the breast first, but not too full or it will burst in 
cooking ; stuff the body rather fuller than the breast, sew up both 
openings with strong darning cotton, and sew the skin of the neck 
over upon the back or down upon the breast, remembering that 
these threads must be carefully removed before sending to the table. 
Lay the points of the wings under the back, and fasten in that posi- 



POULTRY. 695 



tion with a skewer run through both wings and held in place with 
clean twine ; press the legs as closely towards the breast and side- 
bones as possible, giving an upward and pushing motion, and fasten 
with a skewer run through the body and both thighs, push a short 
skewer through above the tail, and tie ends of legs down, with a 
twine, close to the skewer ; then place the fowl on its breast and take 
the strings which tie the legs and bring them around the skewer in 
the wings ; pass them back and forfli, across the back, to the skewer 
in tail two or three times and tie very tightly. Trussing thus, a 
handsome shape will be given, and all the strings will be on the back, 
so that the crust with which the breast of a perfectly roasted fowl is 
covered need not be broken. If one has not skewers, proceed as 
above, tying in shape as nicely as possible. It is now ready for 
roasting or boiling. If to be roasted rub over lightly with salt, or 
some do not use any until half done. Never use pepper, on the 
outside until fowl is done ; as the scorching which it undergoes when 
on the surface, entirely changes the flavor. Always use white pep- 
per, if any. A handsome appearance may be gained for the roast 
by larding the breast and where the fowls are rather dry it is a nicer 
way. Proceed as directed on page 459, using a smaller needle than 

for meats. The heating, for a moment, 
of the flesh renders it firmer, enabl- 
ing one to lard more easily. The 
Needle and Lardoon. illustratiou shows a scparatc needle 

and lardoon and one ready for use. When one can not lard, the 
"barding",as described, is very nice, especially for small game, such 
as quails, etc. Both chickens and turkeys, if roasted, are thought 
to be better steamed, especially if chickens are over a year old, and 
old chickens can be deliciously fried if, after cutting, the pieces are 
first steamed till tender. Stewing and boiling are well approved 
ways of cooking chickens of a questionable age. Always put on in 
boiling water, unless soup is wanted, when use cold ; skim when it 
boils up first, and place where it will only simmer ; which, although 
defined as "gentle boiling" is by competent authorities on cookery, 
considered not hoiling^ but just the next step ; a degree of heat hot 
enough to coagulate the albumen, and soften the fibrin, being of the 
temperature of 18t ' when tested by a thermometer. When cooked 
in water kept. at boiling point, which is much less effective than 
simmering, the flesh becomes tough rather than tender, and there is 




696 POULTRY. 

both a waste of fuel and a poorly-served fowl. Putting in boiling 
water at first is very important in order that the surface may be 
quickly sealed, thus retaining all the juices ; then simmering as di- 
rected, the fowl, or any meat, will be tender, jucier and finer flav- 
ored in much less time than if water is always kept at boiling jjoint ; 
thus proving a much more economical as well as satisfactory method 
of stewing and boiling. A little vinegar added to the water makes fowls 
more tender, and pinch of sugar adds to flavoi ; if very old, some 
sprinkle a spoonful soda over, letting stand a day or two, wash- 
ing off and cooking. The same result would be secured withoutthe 
soda, we think ; as "hanging" for a few days, or even longer, is con- 
sidered the only approved way of preparing poultry by many, 
especially among the English. In roasting as in boiling, have a 
high degree of heat at first, for the same purpose of searing the sur- 
face, then graduate to a moderate heat until done ; to test Avhich in- 
sert a fork between the thigh and body, if the juice is watery and 
not bloody it is done. If not served at once, the fowl may be kept 
hot without drying up, b}' placing it over a pan of boiling water, set 
on top of stove or range, and inverting a dripping-pan over it. The 
wire rack or trivet placed inside the dripping-pan is quite essential 
in roasting, or patty-pans or muffin rings may be used. The pan 
for turkey should be three or even four inches deep, and measure at 
the bottom about sixteen by twenty inches, with sides somewhat 
flaring. Some roast without water, thinking the larding or butter 
makes sufficient drippings for basting ; others add a very little hot 
water. When fowls are frozen, they must be entirely thawed in cold 
water, before being cooked. Chickens are seasonable at all times, 
but "spring chickens" should be three or four months old to be a 
wholesome diet, as the flesh is too immature before that time. Tur- 
keys are decidedly a fall and winter delicacy. Poultry whether 
roasted or boiled may be served with a Giblet Gravy made as di- 
rected in Gravies. Some of the garnishes are parsley, fried oysters, 
thin-sliced ham, slices of lemon, fried sausages or force-meat balls. 



Bal'ed Chicken. — Dress and split young chickens open by cut- 
ting with a sharp knife down the side of the back-bone ; then press 
apart and clean as directed, wipe perfectly dry and put in dripping- 
pan, bone side, or inside down, without any water or butter ; have 
the oven hot and they will be done in a half to three-quarters of an 



POULTEY. 697 

hour. Take out, and season with butter, salt and pepper ; pack one 
above another as closely as possible, and place in pan over boiling 
water, covering closely to keep hot and moist while making Giblet 
Gravy — see Gravies. Or, when tender^ spread over paste of butter and 
flour as in Roast Chicken. These are very nice, without gravy, for 
picnic or traveling lunch,when the seasoning of butter should be omit- 
ted. Or for Buckeye Baked Chicken, cut each chicken into seven 
or nine pieces, wash carefully and quickly, and put in colander to 
drain ; put a half tablespoon each lard and butter in dripping-pan, 
lay in the pieces, and add half pint hot Avater ; place in oven and 
bake half an hour; turn, taking care that they get only to a light 
brown, and just before taking up, add salt and pepper to taste ; wlien 
done take out in a dish and keep hot. To make the gravy, add a 
half pint or more of water, set the dripping-pan on the stove, and add 
tablespoon flour mixed with half cup cream or milk, stirring slowly, 
adding a little of the mixture at a time. Let cook thoroughly, stir- 
ring constantly to prevent burning, and to make the gravy nice and 
smooth ; season more if necessary. Some do not put water in pan, 
hut use plenty of butter, or drippings and butter. For Baked 
Chicken luith Parsnips, wash, scrape, and quarter parsnips, and 
parboil for twenty minutes ; prepare a young chicken by splitting 
open at back, place in dripping-pan, skin side up, lay parsnips 
around it, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add lump of butter 
size of an egg, or two or three slices good pickled pork ; put enough 
water in pan to prevent burning, place in oven and bake until 
chicken and parsnips are done a delicate brown; serve chicken 
separately on platter, pouring the gravy in pan over the parsnips. 
For Breaded Chicken^ cut a tender chicken into seven pieces, roll 
in beaten yolks of two eggs, then in finely grated bread-crumbs, 
seasoned with chopped parsley, pepper and salt; place in dripping- 
pan, dot the pieces with tablespoon butter in bits, add a little water 
and bake slowly, basting often. When done, take out chicken and 
make gravy in pan by adding mixture of flour and butter, made 
smooth by stirring. Add either cream or milk to make sufficient 
gravy, and season to taste. 

Boiled Chicken. — Stuff" or not, as wished, and then truss as di- 
rected. Put in kettle in about a pint boiling water, adding more if 
necessary, but if only simmered as directed in preface, more will not 
be needed, unless a quantity of gravy is wished. After skimming, 
cover and cook till tender. It will be finer flavored if cooked in as 
little water as possible. Take out chicken, add butter if needed, 
and a slight thickening of browned flour ; 
this may be poured over the chicken ; or any 
piquant sauce may be thus used, and a ^ 

sauce-boat of Giblet Gravy made, as directed "* __^ 

in Gravies, adding the water and chopped B'oiiea'chicken'"with"Ri^e. 

giblets to the kettle. They can be cooked with the chicken, but it 




698 POULTRY. 

would necessitate more water in order to have plenty of gravy, 
and the chicken would not be as nice; if fresh water is added just 
at last, to make gravy, the latter will not be as nicely flavored, as if 
it were the water in which the giblets had been cooked an hour or 
two. The chicken may also be served on a bed of Swedish Rice, 
see Vegetables, and makes a handsome dish. 

Broiled Cliicken. — Cut the chicken open on the back and pound 
on meat board until it will be flat ; it can then be put on the grid- 
iron in neat, compact form, and flattening also prevents one part 
from burning while another is underdone. Put on gridiron, inside 
or bone side down, as the chicken cooks more thoroughly in this 
way, the inner surface being quickly seared and the juices retained. 
Turn, to brown both sides nicely, and often enough to prevent burn- 
ing. It will take twenty or thirty minutes to cook thoroughly and 
will cook much better to cover with a pie pan held down with a 
weight so that all parts of chicken may lay close to gridiron. Some 
dip in melted butter or rub over well with butter before broiling. 
Serve very hot simply seasoned with salt, pepper and butter , or 
while chicken is broiling, put liver, gizzard and heart in saucepan 
and boil in pint water until tender, take out and add flour, butter, 
pepper, salt, and cup SAveet cream to the water; when chicken is 
done, dip it in this gravy while hot, lay it back on the gridiron a 
minute, then add the chopped giblets to the gravy, put in the chicken, 
let boil for a half minute, and send to table hot. Broiled Quails 
prepared and served in same way, is very nice. Unless the chicken 
is very young it should be steamed before broiling until almost ten- 
der, or put in a hot oven ten minutes. Some broil a few thin slices 
of salt pork with the chickens and serve them garnished with the 
pork, slices of lemon and parsley. 

Fried Chicken. — Put frying-pan on stove with a half tablespoon 
each lard and butter ; when hot lay in the pieces of chicken, sprinkle 
with flour, salt and pepper, place on lid, and cook over moderate fire ; 
when a light brown, turn the chicken and sprinkle flour, salt and 
pepper over top as at first; if necessary add more lard and butter, 
and cook slowly until done, keeping closely covered ; make gravy 
same as for baked chicken. As a general rule three-quarters of an 
hour is long enough to fry spring chicken. To make rich and nice 
gravy without cream, beat yolk of an egg light, strain and stir slowly 
into gravy after flour and milk have been stirred in and thoroughly 
cooked ; as soon as it boils up the gravy is done, and should be re- 
moved from stove. Or put in a tablespoon each butter and chop- 
ped parsley, pint of cream and seasoning of salt and pepper ; stir 
over the fire, loosening all browned particles from pan and adding 
tablespoon flour if necessary. Boil up and serve, poured over or 
around the chicken, or send on in sauce-boat. Some dip pieces in 
hot water and roll in flour instead of sprinkling with it, and they 



POULTRY. 699 



may also be single-breaded. Always steam or parboil before frying, 
unless chickens are very young. For Creoled Chicken, cut a three 
pound chicken as directed and fry the back, thighs, legs and wings in 
a little hot fat until half done ; then put in the breast in two pieces 
with tablespoon chopped onion, clove of garlic, chopped, and bunch 
herbs and fry five or ten minutes ; add an ordinary slice of raw ham, 
diced, four or five large tomatoes, cut in very small pieces, season- 
ing well with salt and pepper, and when all are cooked, serve to- 
gether on platter. For Fried Gumbo, cut up two young chickens, 
and fry in skillet; when brown, put in pot with quart finely chop- 
ped okra, four large tomatoes, and two onions chopped fine ; cover 
with boiling water, boil very slowly, and keep kettle tightly closed ; 
add boiling water as it wastes, and simmer slowly three hours ; sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and a little butter and flour rubbed together ; 
serve with boiled rice. A nice addition is a dozen or so oysters 
fried in a little butter and added just before serving. Fried Whole 
Chicken is a nice dish when the fowls are young and tender. Truss 
as for roasting, but do not stuff, then fry by immersing in hot fat 
until a nice brown or first single-bread them. The chickens may be 
steamed until tender, then fried as above. Chickens fried after any 
method given may be garnished with fried oysters, hominy or rice. 

Jellied Chicken. — Cook two chickens in small quantity of 
water, until meat will part from the bone easily ; season to taste 
with salt and pepper; just as soon as cold enough to handle, re- 
move bones and skin ; place meat in deep pan or mold, just as it 
comes from the bone, using gizzard, liver and heart, until the mold 
is nearly full, and put bones and skin back in the water chicken 
was cooked in. Boil this till a little less than a quart and add half 
box or an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little '^^x&f.'^^Dk ^^. 
Avarm water, and juice of lemon if wished, strain ^^^i^^^^^M, 
and pour over chicken in mold ; leave to cool, cut ^^^M^^^^^ 
with a very sharp knife and serve. The slices '^^^^^^^^^^ 
Avill not easily break up if directions are followed, jemea chicuen with" Eggs. 
Some add to the broth an onion, stalk celery, twelve pepper-corns, 
piece of mace, four cloves, white and shell of one egg and salt and 
])epper to taste. Three tablespoons corn-starch may be used in- 
stead of the gelatine. Sliced hard-boiled eggs, and thin slices of 
lemon, if liked, neatly arranged around bottom and sides of mold or 
bowl add greatly to the appearance of the dish. Or put in layers of 
eggs and chopped chicken alternately. Stuffed Eggs in halves are 
also molded with chicken with pleasing effect. Some put in pud- 
ding dish and bake, turning out when cold. When making chicken 
salad if all bits of the meat rejected for the salad are put back into 
the quart of liquor, thickened with gelatine or corn-starch as 
above and turned into a mold lined with sliced eggs, a very good 
Flain Jellied Chicken will result. For Chicken in Jelly, soak an 
ounce gelatine in cup cold water twenty minutes ; squeeze it quite 



700 • POULTRY. 



dry and melt it in pint clear stock in which a large tablespoon 
marjoram and half the rind of a lemon have been simmered ten 
minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and strain. Cover 
bottom of a mold half an inch thick with the gravy and when nicely 
set in jelly, place upon it slices of hard-boiled eggs, slices of beet and 
gherkins cut in fancy shapes. Mince together the meat from two 
boiled chickens and a half pound each cooked ham and tongue ; 
season and press this into compact shape and put in center of mold, 
leaving an inch of space around every side ; fill this space with the 
jelly which should not be poured in until quite cool so that it may 
harden quickly and preserve the shape of the meat. This dish may 
be made very handsome and in cold weather will keep a week. For 
a more elaborate dish, cover bottom of mold with a clear gelatine or 
aspic jelly about an inch in depth ; when it stiffens, put a sprig of 
parsley in center, spreading the leaves, leaving the stem up and 
hold it thus while pouring in a little more half-thickened jelly ; 
when this hardens cut a hard-boiled egg in two lengthwise, and lay 
the halves obliquely across it ; cover these with jelly, and when hard 
lay in long, delicate utrips of breast of chicken, seasoned with pep- 
per and salt; cover with jelly to within an inch and a half of top ; 
when hard, put a lining of very thin lemon slices around mold, lay 
in more bits of chicken, fill mold with jelly, and place on ice. While 
filling mold, keep the jelly standing in hot water as it must not 
harden, and the mold in a pan of ice, unless it is 'very cold weather, 
when mold may stand outside a window. Always wet mold with 
water before using. 

Masked Chicken. — Dissolve half ounce gelatine in four table- 
spoons cold water ; put a quart stock in saucepan with tablespoon 
vinegar, sprig of i)arsley, half teaspoon black pepper and half salt- 
spoon salt, and Avhen hot add the dissolved gelatine. Beat whites 
of three eggs, adding four tablespoons cold water, and stir into 
mixture in saucepan with fork or egg whip. The moment it boils 
draw to back of range and simmer slowly twenty minutes, then 
strain through clean towel and let stand overnight. Next day cut 
wings and legs from cold boiled fowl, trim neatly, cut two fillets from 
the breast, taking care not to break the grain of the meat, and remove 
skin ; melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, stir in four table- 
spoons flour, add gradually half pint milk and when boiling add a 
gill cream, seasoning of white pepper and salt, and stir while it boils 
two minutes. Take off" fire and add tablespoon of the cold jelly 
prepared as above. Then dip the pieces of chicken into this sauce 
and jdace on a sieve to drain and cool half an hour. When quite 
cold arrange the pieces of masked chicken neatly in bottom of dish, 
chop the cold jelly coarsely and scatter over them and garnish with 
fresh sprigs of parsley. Or the hot sauce may be poured over the 
pieces of chicken, set away to cool, and at serving time dish them, 
with the sauce that ^vill adhere, on large slices of cold sweet-pota- 



POULTRY. 701 



toes, fried a golden brown in butter, putting ;i lump of the jelly on 
each piece of chicken. Garnish with parsley. 

PleMed Chicken. — Boil four chickens till tender enough for 
meat to fall from bones ; put meat in stone jar, and pourover it three 
pints cold vinegar, and a pint and half of water in which chickens 
were boiled ; add spices if preferred, and it will be ready for use in 
two days. A very delicious relish. 

Potted Chicken. — Pick meat from the bones of cold roast fowl, 
fr((e from gristle and skin, weigh, and to every pound meat allow 

4 )ur tablespoons fresh butter, teaspoon pounded mace, half a nutmeg, 
hited, pepper and salt to taste. Cut meat in small pieces, pound 
it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in the spices gradually, and 
keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Put into 
potting-pots and cover with clarified butter, about one-fourth inch 
in thickness ; and if to be kept for some time, tie over a buttered 
paper, or cloth cover and then one of oil-cloth. Two or three 
slices of ham* minced and pounded with the above ingredients, wiM 
be found an improvement. Keep in a dry place . 

Pressed Chicken. — Take one or two chickens, boil in small 
quantity of water with a little salt, and Avhen thorougldy done, take 
all meat from bones, removing skin, and keeping the light meat 
separate from the dark ; chop and season to taste with salt and pep- 
per. If a meat pressor is at hand take it, or any other mold or a 
crock or pan will do ; put in a layer of light and a layer of dark 
meat till all is used, add the liquor it was boiled in, which should 
be about one cup, and put on a heavy weight until cold ; when cold 
cut in slices. Prepare the day before it is wanted and keep in cool 
])lace. Many chop all the meat together, add one pounded cracker 
to the liquor" it was boiled in, and mix all thoroughly before putting 
in mold ; either way is nice. Some add half as much chojoped ham 
as chicken and hard-boiled eggs may be molded with it as in Jellied 
Chicken. Celery tops are a nice" garnish or sprigs of parsley. 
Pressed Turkey is prepared same way, slicing instead of chopping. 
Either of the above makes very fine sandwiches. 

Roast Chicken.— Miex cleaning, stuflP and _truss_ a six pound 
chicken ns directed in preface, using for the filling, pint and a half 
dry bread-crumbs, four tablespoons warm milk, half cup butter, 
level tablespoon salt, teaspoon each chopped parsley, white pepper, 
and summer savory, half teaspoon each powdered sage and mar- 
ioram nnd yolk of an egg,' mixed well together. Or omit egg and 
milk and use half pint butter, melted. Place chicken on its side 
on trivet, in pan in hot oven and baste every ten or fifteen minutes 
with a little water and butter. When half done, season with salt 
and continue to dredge, baste and froth as in Larded Turkey. When 
done, dish and make a Gil)let Gravy as directed. Some add a little 



702 POULTRY. 




hot water at first, others when half done. Or for a French Roast, 
dredge with salt, rub over thickly Avith soft butter, then dredge ver}' 
thoroughly with Hour ; place on the trivet and in ten minutes add a 
little hot water to pan ; baste and finish as above. Serve when 
nicely l)rowned and frothed, with Giblet Gravy. It is claimed that 
the rich paste of butter and flour keeps in the juices, giving a fine 
flavored roast, and that it is really more economical, less butter be- 
ing required than when simply basted with melted butter. Or roast 
and baste as in first recipe, and when tender, season and spread 
over a smooth paste of two tablespoons butter and four of flour and 
serve when nicely browned without more basting. Or for a more 
elaborate dish stuff and truss, then lard as directed in preface aQ|L 
roast as above, basting with the drippings, .,>As«si*w ^^ 

using butter and flour with which to froth 
it nicely at the last. Or bone the chicken 
as directed in Cutting and Curing Meats, 
leaving in the leg and wing bones, and Larded chicken. 

stuff" with bread-dressing or any force-meat, then sew in shape truss- 
ing the wings and legs close to the back ; lard and roast as above. 
This makes a nice dish to serve, as being boneless, is easily carved 
across in handsome slices. Veal Force-meat is dehcious with this. 

Smothered ChicTien. — Cut up chicken in seven or nine pieces 
and put in dripping-pan in pint boiling water, sprinkle with salt, 
pepper, flour, and dot with bits of butter; cover closely with an- 
other pan and bake tv*'o hours in moderate oven. If the chicken is 
very tender, less time will do ; if tough more is necessary. When 
tender, take the fowl from the pan and keep hot till ready to serve. 
Make a gravy from what is left in the pan ; if there is much fat, pour 
it off and add enough flour rubbed smooth in a little water to 
thicken. Or, split the chicken down the back as for l)roiling, lay 
inside down in baking pan, add water and cover as above ; then 
bake forty minutes, when baste freely with butter and a little of the 
gravy or drippings from fowls. In ten minutes baste again. with 
gravy from the pan, and in five more, with melted butter, dipping it 
pjentifully all over the fowls, which should now begin to brown. 
Season with salt and increase heat, still keeping chickens covered, 
A few minutes before dishing test with a fork. When tender serve 
with Giblet Gravy. Some prepare thus and let cook without bast- 
ing till tender and beginning to brown. Then spread over with a 
paste made of two tablespot)ns butter and four of flour and baste 
every ten minutes with drippings in pan until a rich brown. Serve 
with a gravy poured over chicken, made by adding milk and thick- 
ening to drippings in pan. Or With Oysters^ stuff' and truss as di- 
rected, fill the breast with chopped oysters, parsley and bread- 
crumbs, and stuff the body with oysters alone, put in a clean tin 
pail with closely fitting cover, and set in kettle of cold water. Cook 
slowly for more than an hour after water in outer vessel begins to 



POULTRY. 



703 



boil. If the fowl is not young, it may require cooking two_ hours. 
Do not open the tin pail in less than an hour. When chicken is 
tender, take out on hot dish, covering immediately. Turn the gravy 
into a saucepan, thicken with tablespoon corn-starch, and three 
tablespoons cream, chopped parsley, seasoning to taste, and yolks 
of three hard-boiled- eggs, chopped fine. Boil up once, pour a little 
over the chicken, and serve the rest in gravy-boat. 

Steamed Chicken.— ?>.\xh chicken on the inside with pepper and 
half teaspoon salt, place in patent steamer or over a kettle that will 
keep it as near the water as possible, cover, and steam an hour and 
a half; when done keep hot while dressing is prepared, then cut 
them up, arrange on platter, and serve with the dressing over them. 
The dressing is made as follows : Boil pint gravy from_ kettle with- 
out fat, add cayenne pepper and half teaspoon salt ; stir six table- 
spoons flour into quarter pint cream until smooth, and add to gravy. 
Corn-starch may be used instead of flour, and some add nutmeg or 
celery salt. Or stuff, truss, steam and brown as Steamed Turkey. 

Steiued Chicken.— ^vX up chickens as for frying,_place in boil- 
ing water to cover and stew as directed m preface until tender, add- 
ing more hot water occasionally as needed. When done, add table- 
spoon butter mixed with tablespoon flour, stirring it m a little at a 
time, and season with pepper and salt. Or put the butter in the 
stew and mix the flour smooth in a little water before adding. A 
pinch of sugar is an addition to all stews. For a Creoled Steio, cut 
up a chicken and fry slightlv ; then take out pieces of chicken and 
dredge a little flour into the fat they were fried in ; add sufficient 
water to make the gravy, and one pound of skinned and cut-up 
tomatoes,with a medium-sized onion also cut up, and a little chopped 
parsley, cayenne, and black pepper ; season to taste with salt, and 
stew until thoroughly incorporated ; put in the chicken with three 
tablespoons butter, and stew two hours longer ; then put m a pint 
of well-washed rice and stew another hour. Serve with the gravy 
poured over. Instead of frying, some stew the chickens until ten- 
der with the onion and a slice of broiled ham ; then take out and 
prepare other ingredients as above, omitting the rice, and serving 
with a pint of pease, cooked separately, strewn over the dish. For a 
Brunsioick Stew, cut up a chicken and boil four onions m a quart 
water with two or three slices fat bacon cut in small pieces ; then 
add half pint each ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut fine, butter or 
lima beans, parboiled, and sweet-corn, teaspoon each pepper and 
sugar, butter size of hen's egg and salt to taste. Stew all together 
gently for an hour, take out all bones and serve hot, adding a little 
thickening if necessary. Squirrels are nice stewed same way. The 
bacon may be omitted if not liked. Serve chicken in center of 
dish and vegetables around. For a German Steio, clean, fitnW and 
truss a pair of chickens, as for roasting and dredge well with salt. 



704 POULTRY. 



pepper and flour. Cut a quarter pound pork in slices, and put part 
on bottom of a deep stewpan with two slices of carrot and an onion, 
cut fine. Stir over fire until slightly browned, put in the chickens, 
lay remainder of pork over them, and place in hot oven for twenty 
minutes; then add white stock to half cover the chicken (about two 
quarts), and a bunch sweet herbs. Dredge well with flour, cover 
pan and return to oven. Baste every fifteen minutes, and after 
cooking an hour, turn the chicken,and cook two hours in all. Serve 
with the gravy in which chickens were cooked, strained over them. 
Prepare Carried Chicken by cutting up as above and put in stew- 
pan with little boiling water, put on tight cover and simmer twenty 
minutes. Take out chicken and put in some thin pieces of salt 
pork and two sliced onions. In a few minutes remove pork, re- 
place the chicken, mix a teaspoon of curry-powder, gently through 
the gravy, add cup each rice, and fresh grated cocoanut and boil all 
together until tender. Or truss whole, put slices of pork in kettle, 
then the chicken, cover, and cook till beginning to be tender ; then 
add cup of well-washed rice, cook till tender adding hot water as 
needed. Dish chicken, keep hot and add heaping teaspoon curry- 
powder to rice, stir gently and place on platter with chicken in center. 

TruMed Chicken. — Bone one chicken, cut off the fillets or white 
meat of two more and lay them all side by side on the table. Cut 
a half pound fat salt pork in thin strips, score gashes in thick parts 
of the chicken and lay in the strips, cut up a large can of truffles 
and arrange the pieces evenly where they will show the black spots 
in the white meat when chicken is sliced. Dredge well with salt and 
white pepper, a little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay the 
chicken breasts in the thin places of the boned fowl, bring the two 
sides together and sew up the fowl into nearly its original shape. 
Roll in a floured cloth, tie and pin it, and boil two hours in salted 
broth. Press it while cooling. Take off cloth when cold, draw out 
thread from fowl and serve either incased in Aspic Jelly, or coated 
with glaze, or slice and arrange nicely on a dish. 

Chicken Croquettes. — Boil two fowls weighing five pounds each 
till very tender, mince fine, add pint cream, half pint butter, salt 
and pepper to taste ; make in oval shapes and fry like fritters. 

Chicken Cutlets. — Cut off legs of a chicken with all the meat 
that can be obtained by cutting close to the body, and also the 
breast meat attached. This will give four pieces of chicken with a 
bone in each one which must be scraped up like cutlet bone with 
plenty of meat at the end of it, the same as a lamb chop. The leg 
cutlets consist of drumstick and second joint ; the others have the 
fillet or breast and the wing bone. Chop off the knob ends, Tb.e 
bone of second joint should be loosened from meat, all meat pushed 
to one side of it, and the bone pushed through a hole made in edge 



POULTRY. 705 



of meat — to make it look like a lamb choj) — and the ends of bones 
should be scraped clean for about an inch. When all are prepared, 
parboil by dropping the cutlets in boiling water or broth well season- 
ed, or they lose their shape. When they have boiled five min- 
utes lay them flat on dish or pan, put other dish and a heavy weight 
on top and let them get quite cold. After that trim and shape them 
neatly. Single-bread each cutlet, using cracker-dust, and fry in lard 
or butter in frying-pan. Or they may be Larded as directed, and 
cooked as above without breading. Or for French Outlets, cut cold 
boiled fowl into as many nice cutlets as possible ; take correspond- 
ing number of croutons of bread, about same size, all cut one shaj^e ; 
fry a pale brown and put them in oven to keep hot ; then dip cut- 
lets into clarified butter mixed with yolk of an egg, cover with bread- 
crumbs, seasoned with finely minced lemon peel, mace, salt and 
cayenne ; fry about five minutes, put each piece on one of the 
croutons, pile them high in dish, and serve with the following sauce, 
which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put two tablespoons 
butter into a stewpan, add two minced shalots, a few slices of car- 
rot, bunch sweet herbs, blade pounded mace, and six pepper-corns ; 
fry ten minutes or more ; pour in half pint good gravy, made of the 
chicken bones, stew gently for twenty minutes, strain and serve. 
Two tablespoons mushroom catsup and a beaten egg may be added 
to the gravy. Cutlets of any fowl are prepared same way. 

Chicken Essence. — Take the legs and wings of six chickens and 
break the bones ; put in pan with two pounds fillet of veal cut in 
four or five pieces. Add three quarts chicken broth, and medium- 
sized carrot well cleansed and scraped, two onions (one of them stuck 
with two cloves), and bunch sweet herbs. Boil up, skim, and ther\ 
simmer till meat is perfectly done. Strain through a cloth, remove 
all fat, and put it aside for use. 

Chicken Fillets. — The fillets are the pieces on each side of the 
breast bone. For cutting see Cutting and Curing Meats. They are 
nice larded with fine strips of fat salt pork, then single-breaded and 
fried and served on hot dish with spoonful Tartare Sauce on each. 
These are called Breaded Fillets. Or they may be pounded lightly 
with the potato masher to flatten them, seasoned with pepper and 
salt, dredged well with flour and fried in two tablespoons butter 
about twenty minutes, or until a nice brown on both sides. Make a 
gravy by adding a cup and half milk to fat in pan, with tablespoon 
flour and seasoning to taste. Serve the Fried Fillets resting against 
a mound of mashed potatoes or green pease with the gravy poured 
round, and all very hot. For Braised Fillets, lard as above, put 
in pan with thin slice of pork and an onion and cook slowly half an 
hour. Then add pint stock or water and bones of chicken, cover 
and cook in moderate oven basting frequently with the gravy. Take 
up and drain the fillets, dip in melted butter, dredge lightly with 



706 POULTRY. 

flour and broil till light brown. Serve on a hot dish with the gravy 
from pan thickened and poured around, or on a mound of mashed 
potato with garnish of parsley. Fillets of any fowl cooked same 

Chicken Fricassee. — Cut up and put on to boil, skin side down, 
in small quantity of boiling water, season with salt, pepper, and slices 
of onion if liked ; stew gently until tender, remove chicken, add half 
pint cream or milk to gravy, and thicken with butter and flour rub- 
bed smoothly together (adding a little of the gravy to soften and 
help mix them), let boil two or three minutes, add a little chopped 
parsley and a beaten egg or two, if wanted very rich and serve. Or 
first fry the chicken brown in a little hot lard, take out chicken, add 
a tablespoon flour, and let cook a minute, stirring constantly' ; add 
a pint water (or stock if at hand), a little vinegar or Worcestershire 
sauce, season with salt and pepper ; when it has boiled, remove 
from tire, strain, add the beaten yolk of an egg, pour over the 
chicken and serve. Or, put chicken in saucepan with barely enough 
water to cover, stew gently until tender ; have a frying-pan prepared 
with a few slices of salt pork, drain chicken and fry with pork until 
it is a fine, rich lirown ; take chicken and bits of pork from the pan, 
pour in the broth, thicken with broAvned flour, mixed smooth with a 
little water, and season with pepper, and a little nutmeg if flavor is 
liked ; now put chicken and pork back into gravy, let simmer a few 
minutes, and serve very hot on slices of buttered toast, or hot bak- 
ing-powder biscuit, split in two. Or add enough hot Avater to pan 
chicken was cooked in to boil dumplings, and serve them around 
platter. Some like the flavor of part of a head of celery boiled with 
the chicken, or parsley and a blade of mace, and oysters are some- 
times added, boiling up once before dishing. Or cook the chicken 

until tender with a small carrot, pared and 
left whole, and one dozen small onions, 
peeled ; then take up and keep hot Avhile 
gravy is made ; strain out vegetables, and 
^^. , „ . let broth boil ; mix tablesiioon Ijutter and 

Chicken Fricassee. p n t i ^^ -i 

two 01 flour together over the nre until a 
smooth paste ; then gradually add a pint and a half of the broth, 
stirring the gravy with an egg whip until quite smooth; season to 
taste with salt and pepper, and dish on hot platter ; a half can mush- 
rooms greatly improves the flavor. In serving any of above ways, 
arrange pieces as nearly as possible to simulate a whole chicken, 
and garnish with tufts of parsley or tender inside heads of lettuce. 

Chicken Patties. — Pick meat from one. or two boiled chickens, 
cut into long strips and then across into small dice. Put in sauce- 
pan, season with white pepper or cayenne, a grating of nutmeg, the 
juice of half a lemon, salt and tablespoon butter. Pour over it a 
pint white sauce to each pint chicken, gently simmer at back of 
range or on a brick on top of range till time to serve ; then fil i heated 




POULTRY. 707 

Patty Shells with it. Or add to the diced meat from one chicken a cup 
each cream and the broth it was cooked in, butter size of egg mixed 
with tablespoon flour and simmer gently until it begins to thicken ; 
add beaten yolks of two eggs, pepper, salt, little grated nutmeg and 
lemon peel, and just before serving the juice of a lemon. Fill shells. 

Chicken Gems. — Pound or chop fine any cold chicken, add 
same amount of bread-crumbs soaked soft in milk, two eggs, salt 
and pepper, chopped parsley, and a spoonful of butter ; mix, put in 
buttered gem pans, bake twenty minutes. Eat with Caper Sauce or 
green salad, llish Gems are nice made same way. 

Chicken Pie.—Gwi up two young chickens in nine pieces, place 
in boiling water enough to cover, and as it boils away add more so 
as to have enough for the pie and for gravy to serve with it, boil un- 
til tender, skimming well ; line sides of a four or six-quart pan with 
a rich baking-p'owder or soda-biscuit dough, or Quaker Paste', quar- 
ter of an inch thick, put in part of chicken, after removing breast- 
bone, pointing each piece toward the center, so as to interfere 
as little as possible in the serving ; season with salt, pepper, and but- 
ter, lay in a few thin strips or squares of dough, add the rest of 
chicken and season as before ; some add layers of five or six sliced, 
hard-boiled eggs ; season liquor in which the chickens were boiled, 
with butter, salt and pepper, add a part of it to the pie, cover with 
crust a quarter of an inch thick, pinch edges well together and cut 
a hole in center size of a tea-cup. Keep adding chicken liquor as 
needed, since the fault of most chicken pies is that they are too dry. 
There can scarcely be too much gravy. Bake an hour in a moder- 
ate oven, and just before it is done, brush the top with Pastry 
Glaze. To make gravy, add to liquor left in pot, if not 
enough add hot water or milk, a tablespoon or two of butter mixed 
to a paste with flour, and seasoned with pepper and salt. This 
should be stirred, a little at a time, into the liquor ; let boil up once 
and serve, straining if at all lumpy. Some boil with the chicken a 
half pound lean salt pork cut in strips and add it to the pie. Or 

With Potatoes, ionx or five potatoes may be put in withthe chicken 
when stewing, before it is quite done, with a seasoning of salt; 
then put alternate layers of chicken and sliced potatoes, in the pan 
or dish, with the bits of dough, and finish as above. If new potatoes 
are used they do not need to be first cooked. A little chopped 
parsley or celerv improves the pie, and always add a 
pinch of sugar. Some put in a pint of sweet cream just 
i)efore the pie is done, let cook a minute and serve. Or 

With Oysters, boil chicken until tender, drain off" liquor ^■"^^'^ «><»"• 
from a quart of oysters, boil, skim, line the sides of a dish with a 
rich crust, put in a layer of chicken, then a layer of raw oysters, and 





708 POULTRY. 

repeat until dish is filled, seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, 
and bits of butter, and adding the oyster liquor and a 
part of the chicken liquor until the liquid is even with 
top layer ; cover loosely with a crust.and tinish as above. 
If liquor cooks away, add chicken gravy or hot water. 
When Opened, ^qj^q Hnc bottoiu o"f dlsh wlth CFUst, put in oven till 
partially baked, then line the sides, fill, cover, and bake ; it is always 
difficult to bake the crust on the bottom of dish unless this plan is 
adopted. A better plan is without bottom crust as 
above. Elaborate molds are made for pies, such as <c^ 

the closed mold given; the crust being pLaced in it 

after it is buttered, and then pressed well into the cMcken He. 
indentations ; fill and cover as above. When done, take out 
the wires fastening the sides together, and remove pie to a hot 
platter, and serve at once. 3Ieat or Game Pies can be made as 
any of above. For Giblet Pie^ clean and put a set duck or goose 
giblets into stewpan with an onion, half teaspoon whole pepper, and 
a bunch of sweet herbs ; add rather more than a piot water, and sim- 
mer gently for about one and a half hours. Take out, let cool, and 
cut into pieces ; line bottom of a pie pan with a fevv^ pieces of rump 
steak, add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of steak ; season 
with pepper and salt, and pour in strained gravy from the giblets ; 
cover with a Short Paste (see Pastr}^^, and bake for rather more than 
one and a half hours in a brisk oven. Cover a piece of paper over 
pie, to prevent too much browning of crust. For another Panned 
Pie, chop pieces of roast, or any cold chicken in about half-inch 
dice, add any bits of dressing and moisten with gravy, if any, adding 
hot water as needed ; stew till well heated, season, and place in pie 
pan lined with a plain paste, cover with a Puff" Paste and bake. A 
little Chilli Sauce or any chopped pickle may be added. 

Chicken Pot-pie. — Cut up chicken, put in enough boiling water 
to cover, and take care that it does not cook dry ; while cooking, 
cut off" a slice from bread dough, add a small piece lard or butter 
and mix up like light biscuit, roll, cut with biscuit-cutter and set 
by stove to rise ; wash and pare potatoes of moderate size, and add 
them when chicken is almost done ; when potatoes begin to boil, 
season with salt and pepper, put in dumplings, first adding a cup 
of cold water or milk, to lessen the temperature of water, that the 
dumplings may rise lighter, and season again, adding a pinch sugar. 
See that there is water enough to keep from burning, cover very 
tightly, and do not take cover off until dumplings are done. They 
will cook in half an hour, and may be tested by lifting one edge of 
the lid, taking out a dumpling and breaking it open. Or, the dump- 
lings may be placed in steamer over cold water, and if not in a pat- 
ent steamer, be careful to leave some of the holes in steamer open, 
as if all are covered by the dumplings, the steam will not be admit- 
ted, and they will not cook well. If there are too many dumplings 



POULTRY. 709 

to lie on bottom without covering all holes, attach them to side and 
upper edge of steamer by wetting dough and pressing to the edge. 
When done remove to platter around the chicken and pour hot 
gravy over them. Dish potatoes by themselves. Make gravy as for 
Chicken Pie, adding more boiling water if needed. Or, make dump- 
lings with one pint sour milk, two well-beaten eggs, half teaspoon 
soda (mixed in part of the flour), and flour enough to make as stiff" 
as can be stirred with a spoon ; or baking powder and sweet milk 
may be used. Drop in by spoonfuls, cover tightly, and boil as 
above, or pinch olF balls from baking-powder dough and add. A 
pot-pie may be made from a good boiling piece of beef; if too much 
grease arises skim off. Cut out diamond-shaped pieces from some 
of the dough, and bake in oven, with which to garnish the pot-pie 
when served. Another way of making is to grease a deep pot with 
lard, roll out enough plain crust to line it, cutting out the bottom ; 
as the pieces of chicken are put in, strew in flour, salt and pepper, 
a few pieces of crust rolled thin, and a few parboiled and sliced po- 
tatoes ; cover this with water, and then with paste with a slit in the 
middle. Cook slowly two hours, adding hot water if necessary. 
Veal and Lamb may be made in same way. Some leave the lining 
whole, cut out two or three rounds of paste or dough a little smaller 
than the kettle and' put in with layers of chicken and season- 
ing at bottom and between, adding a half cup water before putting 
on top crust, and bake in moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. 
Serve turned out on a dish with sauce-boat of gravy made as for 
Chicken Pie. Another way of preparing is to cook the chicken in 
three pints water ; first cooking tablespoon butter, a large onion and 
three slices each carrot and turnip, all cut fine, half an hour, stir- 
ring constantly, then pulp them through a colander into the kettle 
with the chicken. Stir three tablespoons flour, with two of chicken 
fat, in pan in which vegetables were fried, until brown and add to 
chicken ; season well with pepper and salt and stew gently two 
hours. Fifteen minutes before serving drop in some dumplings 
and place kettle where it will cook rapidly. Dish chicken in center 
of platter and dumplings around, serving gravy in sauce-boat. 

Chicken Pudding. — Dress and cut one chicken into small pieces, 
put in saucepan or kettle with a little water, let boil until it begins 
to grow tender, then take out and put into* a three-quart pudding 
dish, season with salt and pepper ; have ready one quart green corn 
grated or cut fine, to which add three eggs beaten light and one pint 
sweet milk ; season with salt and pepper, and pour this mixture over 
the chicken, dredge thickly with flour, lay on bits of butter and 
bake until done. Or make a smooth batter of a pound flour, tea- 
spoon salt, quart milk, and six well-beaten eggs ; butter an earthen 
dish, and put the chicken and batter into it in layers, with batter at 
the bottom and top, and bake the pudding until brown in a moder- 
ate oven. When pudding is nearly done, heat the broth in which 



710 POULTRY. 



chicken was stewed, season to taste, draw to back of range where it 
will not boil, and stir into it enough beaten eggs to thicken, and 
serve at once with the pudding. Or soak a cup bread-crumbs in 
cup boiling milk in which a pinch of soda has been dissolved, and 
beat very light ; let cool while mincing cold chicken and a slice of 
boiled ham very fine ; mix the meat with the bread-crumbs, season 
with pepper and salt and tablespoon butter, add two well-beaten 
eggs, beat all up well, turn into well-buttered baking dish and bake 
in brisk oven. When it puffs up a light, delicate brown send at 
once to table in dish in which it is baked. If flavor is liked, boil 
half an onion in the milk, skimming out before pouring over bread- 
crumbs. Always add a pinch of sugar to either of above puddings. 

Chicken Quenelles. — Mix a tablespoon chopped salt pork with 
the chopped and pounded meat from one chicken, which may first 
be cooked or not, but must be skinned ; rub both through a coarse 
sieve. Cook a cup bread-crumbs with cup milk until smooth, stir- 
ring constantly, and add the sifted meat with half cup cream or 
white stock, seasoning of salt and white pepper and a little nutmeg 
or mace, and pinch of sugar with beaten yolks of three eggs, adding 
whipped whites last. Mix all thoroughly together and shape the 
quenelles with two tablespoons, first dipping one in hot water, fill- 
ing with the mixture, then turning it into the other spoon, Avhich 
has also been dipped in hot water. Put the quenelles as fast as 
made into a buttered saucepan and when all are done pour over 
them enough boiling stock to cover, and simmer gently twenty 
minutes. Take up, drain, and serve on rounds of toasted or fried 
bread or mashed potatoes, arranged as a border, with Mushroom or 
Bechamel Sauce in center and a spoonful on each. Or after the 
quenelles are cooked let them get cold, single-bread them, fry as 
croquettes, and serve with fried parsley or any sauce liked. 

ChicTiCJi Turn-O'cers. — Roll out Puff Paste, and cut with a round 
tin cutter ; chop some cooked chicken with half as much chopped 
ham ; moisten with a little cream and add grated rind of a lemon 
and pinch cayenne ; lay a spoonful of mixture on half of every cir- 
cle, turn the other half over it, press edges closel}^ together, and 
drop into hot lard, as in fritters. Serve, piled on a small platter. 
Nutmeg may be substituted for the lemon peel, and make Turkey 
and Veal Turn-overs in same way. 

Chicken Vanity. — Stir a pint cooked and finely chopped 
chicken and teaspoon each chopped parsley and lemon juice with 
seasoning of white pepper and salt into a pint boiling White Sauce. 
Cook two minutes, add yolks of four eggs, well beaten, and set away 
to cool ; when cold, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn 
into buttered dish, bake half an hour, and serve the moment it is 
done with Mushroom or White Sauce. The meat of any fowl or 
veal, may be used. 



POULTRY. 711 

Chiclien With Asparagus.— Cnt two chickens in seven pieces 
each, leaving the breast and breast-bone entire. Cook all but latter 
in four quarts boiling water ; when commencing to be tender put in 
the breast and when done, take out and let cool. The meat, except 
the breasts, can be used for Chicken Salad or any dish wished. 
Take the breasts when cold, or when ready to use, cut carefully 
from the bone and trim neatly, cutting in two or more pieces ; make 
hot in a little chicken broth, kept from stewing the chickens, place 
on platter and pour over a Magical Saiice made as follows : Add 
to the chicken liquor, a few slices of carrots and parsnips, and a 
stalk of celery and a very little onion ; when well-flavored with the 
vegetables, strain through the crash towel kept for straining soups, 
etc., and place the broth in a saucepan, add two tablespoons each 
flour and butter, stirred together over the fire, but not browned ; let 
this cook slowly till reduced to a quart, then add hquor from a can 
of mushrooms, and again reduce to less than a quart ; beat in a 
tablespoon butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, pinch of sugar and 
cayenne, and cup of boiled cream, a little at a time, just before serv- 
ing, making it of the consistency required, and then pass it through 
a fine strainer. After pouring it over the breasts of chicken, dot it 
here and there with the asparagus heads cooked in a little water till 
tender and then fried a moment or two in a little butter. The great 
beauty of the dish, with sauce looking as glossy as white satin, just 
thin enough to settle down smooth, yet too thick to run off the 
meat, and spotted all over the surface with the green heads and 
bordered with the same, well repays one for the trouble, and it is as 
delicious as it is elegant. 

Chicken Livers With Bacon.— Cut livers in rounds an inch 
and a half in diameter, and have thin slices of bacon cut half the 
size. Nearly fill a small wire skewer with these, alternating. Place 
in frying basket and plunge into smoking-hot fat for a 
^ minute or two. Serve on the skewers, or on toast, with 
thin slices of lemon for a garnish. Or, skewers can be rested on 
sides of a narrow baking pan and placed in a hot oven for five 
minutes. Serve as before. The livers of all other kinds of poultry 
can be cooked same. 

Cantons de JRoxien. — Cut-off bone of leg about an inch from 
joint, giving a large sweep of skin. Take bone out of leg without 
breaking the skin ; make a dressing of one half cup bread, soaked, 
squeezed and seasoned with salt, pepper and any herb except sage. 
Stuff leg with this, sew up and trim in shape, as near like little 
ducks as possible. Place in pan upon a bed of vegetables, (slices of 
turnips, carrots, onions, bay leaf, and two or three slices salt pork), or 
baste with a little butter, and bake one half hour. 

Cliilli C'oZomt?.— Cut up two chickens and stew; when pretty 
well done, add a little green parsley and a few onions. Take half 



712 POULTRY. 

pound large pepper pods, remove seeds, and pour on boiling water ; 
steam ten or fifteen minutes ; pour off water, and rub them in a 
sieve until all the juice is out; add the juice to the chicken; cook 
half an hour, and add a little butter, flour and salt. Garnish with a 
border of rice around the dish. This may also be made of beef, 
pork or mutton ; it is to be eaten in cold weather, and is a favorite 
with all people on the Pacific coast. 

Grilled Fowl. — Cut the legs and second joints from two cold 
roast or boiled fowls ; score them closely, season with pepper and 
salt, and keep to broil. Mince the rest of the meat fine. Make a 
White Sauce (see Sauces), seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg; 
add the minced fowl, and heat ; broil the legs and thighs, dish the 
mince on hot platter, lay them on it, and serve hot. Before broil- 
ing the legs some "devil" them by first scoring deeply, cutting par- 
allel strips right down to the bone and insert in these a mixture of 
French mustard and cayenne pepper with a blunt knife, covering 
the leg all over well with the mixture. A teaspoon each vinegar, 
Harvey or Worcestershire sauce and mustard, and tablespoon salad 
oil or melted butter, mixed till like cream, is also nice for preparing 
a Deviled Fowl as above. The grill may be served with Mephisto- 
phelian Sauce, especially designed for deviled meats. Chop six 
shallots or small onions, wash, and press in corner of a clean cloth, 
put in saucepan with two tablespoons chilli vinegar or pepper sauce, a 
chopped clove of garlic, two bay leaves, an ounce of glaze and a 
pinch cayenne ; boil all together ten minutes ; then add five table- 
spoons Tomato Sauce, a pinch of sugar, and nine of broth, made 
from the turkey bones or water thickened with roux, and some add 
a little anchovy butter. Deviled Meat j^f%s^ 

of any kind made and served same. J^W'^L 

Or when the mince is not made, serve ]^^^^^ ^^ 

in hot dish with a tablespoon melted Hn^^^^^^a 

butter, in bottom, thickly sprinkled J'^^^SSS^^jJ 

with chapped parsley. Or iov Braised >/V\^r7w^\ 

Leg of Fowl ivith Tongue, braise the ^f^/ f V i ^ \ 
legs cut as above, as directed in Brais- /""CiV^ /^sd'^'V'l ""Vs 
ed Meat, and boil a tongue according x^^^ ^Lai^ ^:|^i y;^,,^^^ 
to recipe given in Meats. Have pre- ^ ^ — ^^^^i>^ 

pared a mold of boiled rice ; place on Braised Leg of fowi with Tongue, 

platter, surround with the braised legs, then garnish all with slices 
of cold tongue. Heap on top of rice. Aspic Jelly cut in dice, made 
from the bones of fowl and place slices of pickled beet with it. 

Roast Duck. — Ducks are dressed and stuffed same as turkej^s. 
Young ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes ; full- 
grown for an hour or more with frequent basting. Some prefer 
them underdone, served very hot, but thorough cooking will prove 
more generally palatable. Serve with currant jelly, apple sauce, and 



POULTRY. 



713 



green pease. If old, parboil before roasting. Either the Onion or 
Rice Force-meat given in Force-meats is very nice for stuffing roast 
ducks, though any preferred may be used. Some core small sour 
apples without peeling and bake them in the pan Avith the duck, 
basting both every five minutes after the first half hour until done. 
Then serve apples round the duck as a garnish. 

Stewed Duck.— Gvii the duck in small joints ; peel and chop a 
small onion, and fry with a tablespoon butter until it begins to 
brown ; then put in duck and brown that ; then add a heaping table- 
spoon flour, and stir all until the flour is brown ; cover with boil- 
ing water, season with salt and pepper, and stew gentlv until tender ; 
add tablespoon chopped parsley and serve hot. Or With Cabbage, 
slice and put in saucepan with tablespoon each butter and vinegar, 
and dozen each whole cloves and pepper-corns and teaspoon salt,cover 
and place where it will cook slowly. Cut cold roast duck in two-inch 
pieces and brown them in tablespoon butter, seasoning highly with 
pepper and salt ; then put in saucepan on top of cabbage and cook 
until the latter is tender ; turn it out on hot dish and serve the pieces 
of duck neatly arranged on the cabbage. Or it is nice With Car- 
rots Boil the carrots till soft, let drain, and put m stewpan with 
enough butter to frv nicely. While frying add a gill good clear 
gravy (soup will do), lump of sugar, pinch or two of salt, and rub 
them through a sieve ; then reheat, stirring well. Warm up the 
pieces of cold duck meanwhile in gravy, and lay them on the puree ot 
carrots. Or, if liked With Pease, place the remains of cold roast 
duck in stewpan with pint gravy and a little sage, cover closely, and 
let simmer half an hour; add a pint of boiled green pease, stew a 
few minutes, remove to dish, and pour gravy and pease over it. 

' Boast 6^0056.— The goose should not be more than eight months 
old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the meat. A "green ' 
goose (four months old) is the choicest. Kill at least twenty-four 
hours before cooking ; cut the neck close to the back, beat the breast- 
bone flat with a roUing-pin, tie the wings and legs securely, season 
inside with pepper and salt, and stuff or not as hked, with the toi- 
lowing mixture : Three pints bread-crumbs, six ounces butter or 
part butter and part salt pork, two chopped onions, one teaspoon 
each sage, black pepper and salt. Do not stufi" very full, and stitch 
openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out. it tlie 
goose is not fat, lard it with salt pork, or tie a slice on the breast 
Place in baking pan with little water, and baste frequently with salt 
and water (some add onion and little vinegar,) turning often so 
that the sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly 
done baste with butter and dredge with flour. Bake two hours, or 
more if old ; some parboil before roasting ; when done take from pan, 
pour ofl" fat, and make a Giblet Gravy. Apple, Goosberry or Onion 
Sauce and currant jelly are proper accompaniments to roast goose. 



714 POULTRY. 

Boiled Turkey. — Prepare turkey as directed ; fill with a dress- 
ing of bread and butter, moistened with milk and seasoned with 
sage, salt and pepper, and mixed with a pint of raw oysters ; sew up 
and truss as in preface, place in boiling water with the breast down- 
ward, skim often and boil as directed in preface, about three hours, 
if a seven or eight pound turkey, seasoning with salt when half 
done. Do not cook till skin breaks ; serve with Oyster Sauce. Or 
With Celery^ chop very fine six stalks nicely-blanched celery and 
add to the bread dressing as given in Steamed Turkey or to the 
above. Or cut the celery in third of an inch pieces, season with salt 
and a pinch of cayenne and fill turkey with it ; then sew and truss 
as above. Serve with Celery Sauce, or stir together in saucepan two 
tablespoons each flour and butter, when smooth add a quart of the 
turkey broth, season and add the chopped giblets, having cooked 
them with the turkey, as more water is required with it than Avith 
chicken. Celery may be added to this sauce, letting cook till ten- 
der, or oysters, when simply boil up once and serve. Or With 
Macaroni., boil latter ten or fifteen minutes in water seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and use for stuffing. Serve with plain boiled maca- 
roni, and an Egg or Bechamel Sauce. Or stuff with any force-meat 
liked, see Force-meats. Boiled Chicken may be prepared as any of 
the above ; or truss and boil without stuffing and when done cut up 
and lay in a hot dish, cover with macaroni cooked as above, with 
the addition of an onion, and over that grate a quarter pound 
Parmesan, or any dry cheese ; then brown in oven or with sala- 
mander. Rice may be used instead of Macaroni. Or With Pork., 
boil a piece of lean salt pork three hours, then put in fowl tied in a 
white cotton cloth, wet in cold water and dredged thickly with 
flour. Some always tie in the floured cloth when boiling a stuffed 
turkey or chicken. And for a White-boiled Fowl, first cover breast 
with slices of lemon, and put over these a sheet of buttered paper, 
then tie in the floured cloth ; place in boiling water and simmer 
gently as directed, remembering that simmering, instead of boiling, 
a chicken or turkey, prepared in any of above ways, makes them 
plumper and whiter. Always truss very firmly, as they are more 
apt to loose their shape than in roasting. In serving some prefer to 
pour some of the sauce over the fowl, putting the rest in sauce- 
boat. Besides the sauces mentioned above, Parsley, Lemon and 
Mushroom may be used, and Bice Sauce is very nice ; to make, 
simmer quarter pound rice in pint milk. Season with onion as for 
Bread Sauce. When tender, strain and boil till thick, and a Rice 
Dressing may also be used for filling, made as follows ; boil three 
quarters of a gill of rice in salted water till tender, but grains not 
broken ; mix with a cup cold veal or any cold meat, or slice or two 
of salt pork and three or four onions, all chopped fine ; season with 
salt and pepper and a pinch of cayenne and sugar ; fry slightly in 



POULTRY. 715 




frying-pan with butter size of an egg. This is a nice stuffing for 
tame Roast Ducks. 

Boned Turkey. — Complete directions for Boning will be found 
in Cutting and Curing Meats, which see ; only the different methods 
of cooking the fowl after it is boned are given here. Always Aveigh 
the fowl before boning, and allow two-thirds weight for force-meat, 
which is usually made of fresh veal and chicken, chopped fine, or 
veal and pork, or sausage meat. For each pound force-meat take a 
level teaspoon each powdered cloves, powdered allspice and salt, 
saltspoon each pepper and mace, one raw egg and juice of a lemon ; 
mix thoroughly. Place the fowl, skin down on a board, put layer 
of stuffing on it about half an inch thick, on that put two strips salt 
pork, about three inches long and half inch wide, and the liver of 
fowl ; then another layer of stuffing, then the little white pieces cut 
off by the breast-bone, when boning the turkey, and about a half can 
of mushrooms. Now draw the fowl together, sew 
vent and neck first then sew up the back. If 

wished, two or three truffles may be added. After _ _ 

fowl is sewed up, roll it in a clean cloth, large Turkey Geianune. 
enough to have about one-quarter yard to spare at each end ; tie up 
very tightly so as to keep in shape, with three or four strips of 
broad tape, or as illustrated. Weigh after it is tied, and put 
carcass or bones, after drawing and cleaning into as many 
quarts cold water as pounds the fowl weighs, and when at' boil- 
ing point, skim as for clear soup. When no more scum rises 
add a carrot, an onion stuck with a dozen cloves, a turnip, a 
bunch of herbs, parsley, bay leaf, blade of mace, and any herb 
except sage, and a few pepper-corns tied well together. Put in 
turkey and boil a half hour to the pound, adding more hot water, 
as needed. When done, take out, letting the broth drain from 
it into the pot ; strain the stock through a folded towel laid in a col- 
ander set in earthen bowl. Some let the turkey remain in broth till 
it is cold. Unroll from cloth, wash cloth in hot water, then in cold, 
using no soap, and wrap chicken up again, tying as at first, and put 
on platter ; turn another platter over it, place a heavy weight on this 
and press till cold, or overnight if possible. Make an Aspic Jelly 
to serve with the turkey by first removing fat from the broth in 
which it was boiled, and to each quart broth or stock take white and 
shell of one egg and tablespoon cold water ; put in saucepan and 
add the broth or stock with two packages or four ounces gelatine 
(this will harden three pints of stock). Stir until gelatine is dis- 
solved and the stock looks clear, under the egg which should harden 
and float on top. Then strain through a double towel wrung out of 
hot water and placed over a bowl. After being strained half of the 
jelly may be colored with Caramel Coloring and different shades 
given according to quantity of coloring used ; turn into different 
molds to cool and after the turkey has been pressed overnight un- 



716 POULTRY. 

roll, slice and garnish, with the different shades of jelly cut in fanc}^ 
shapes. Or place the whole Turkey Galantine^ as it is sometimes 
called, on a platter and pour the jelly when partially cooled over it ; 
when cold serve at table garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. 
Another method of stuffing is to have ready two pounds sausage 
meat well seasoned, two pounds boiled ham, a beef tongue, half 
dozen sheep's tongues, boiled ; pound and a half salted pork, half 
pound sliced truffles, and the meat of two boiled chickens free from 
bones and skin. Cut the meat in strips four inches long and one 
broad and quarter of an inch thick. Spread the boned fowl on 
table, salt and pepper well, then fill with the cut up meats, etc., 
alternating so as to form layers of different colors. When filled 
give the whole a good round shape, bring the two sides together, 
sew up, wrap and tie in a cloth as above, and put in a kettle 
large enough to allow water to cover well ; add bones and giblets, 
two calf's feet, a small piece of lean beef, parsley, little thyme, two 
cloves of garlic, pepper, one carrot, half turnip and salt. Boil gently 
three hours, skimming well. Take from kettle, remove cloth, wash 
and finish as above. Or after filling with the dressing truss the 
same as for roasting, retaining its original form as far as possible ; 
and to so do, it is best to leave the leg and wing bones in when bon- 
ing, for directions for which see Cutting and Curing Meats. Then 
tie the fowl firmly in a strong piece of cotton cloth, as in Boiled 
Turkey, drawing it very tight at the legs, as this is the broadest 
. part and the shape will not be good unless this precaution is taken. 
8team three hours, remove cloth, place on buttered tin in baking- 
pan, baste well with butter, pepper and salt and bake an hour, 
frothing as directed ; when cold remove skewers and serve, 
garnished with Aspic Jelly, cooked beets in fancy shapes and 
parsley. Hard-boiled yolks of eggs, oysters, blanched sweet almonds, 
chestnuts, pistachio-nuts, veal, garlic, bay leaves, lemon juice and 
rind, chopped pickles, anchovies, etc., may be used in the filling. 
When well executed a galantine is a very handsome dish and is al- 
ways served cold. 

Larded Turkey. — For cooking in any way a hen turkey a year 
old is best, weighing eight or ten pounds when dressed. Clean, 
stuff, truss and lard as directed in preface ; place in oven not quite 
as hot as for roasting meats (if the fire is very hot, lay a piece of 
1)rown paper, well greased, over the fowl, to prevent scorching) ; 
put a tablespoon of butter in bits on the breast ; it will melt and run 
into the dripping-pan, and is used to baste the fowl as roasting pro- 
gresses ; baste every ten minutes, watching the turkey as it begins 
to brown, very carefully, and turning it occasionally to expose all 
parts alike to the heat ; it should be moist and tender, not in the 
least scorched, blistered or shriveled, till it is a golden brown ail 
over. For the first two-thirds of time required for cooking (the rule 
is twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer) the 



717 

POULTRY. 



remain uncil the noiir is wen uiuwuc , n • and browning, 

piugs from pan, and flo"^'»g^-;"■ "-Xif,^? ^rSilT probably b'e 

care not to wash on nour oy DabLiiis, ''-^'^^'V » i^npppssarv 

?^^;;\s^S^^bf;:f^af^{^a!Ife 
-r=n:eS/|f^^^^^ 

T?na,f TurJceu -Prepare as above omitting the larding, placing 
Uoast lui Key. j- ^^F' . ^ .i +,,,.Vev or thin slices ot 

^^^^^^^^B then nmsh witTa spoon- Sometimes', 
liriTSMi M^T^ from motives of economy, the stewed cran- 
berries are mixed with an equal amount ot 
gravy from the turkey pan, making a Fruit Gravy which is much 

with butter, salt aud water, ^ome use milK insie 

make it brown nicely. A ^w mmii e hetore it is d^^^^^^ 

the white of an egg, or the ^f^f L^^^^^^stefs and se ve with Celery 

Ba^^aU^Sd^gr^^^^^^^^^ 



718 POULTRY. 

and add to an ordinary bread dressing, a dozen or two foreign chest- 
nuts, first boiled till tender, about half an hour, in salted water or 
stock, then peeled, and inside skin scraped off. Some first put in 
oven till skins burst. Or mix cup bread-crumbs with three cups 
pork sausage, seasoning as needed, then add thirty or forty chest- 
nuts prepared as above. Mix well and fill the turkey. Or fill the 
breast with a Veal Force-meat and the body with prepared chest- 
nuts without bread, etc. Truss and roast in any of above ways and 
serve with any sauce wished ; or with Chestniit Sauce, stew dozen 
roasted chestnuts, peeled, in a pint gravy, season with pepper and salt, 
and thicken Avith a piece of butter rolled in flour ; boil until smooth. 
Fry half a dozen sausages, pour the sauce into the dish, place the 
fowl in it, and the sausages around the fowl ; garnish with lemon 
cut in thin slices. Or With C^/ysi^eT's, prepare turkey as directed 
then take a loaf of stale bread, cut off crust and soften by placing in 
a pan, pouring on boiling water, draining off immediately and cov- 
ering closely ; crumble the bread fine, add half pint melted butter, 
or more if to be very rich, and a teaspoon each salt and pepper, or 
enough to season rather highly ; drain off liquor from a quart of 
oysters, bring to a boil, skim and pour over bread-crumbs, adding 
the soaked crusts and one or two eggs ; mix all thoroughly with the 
hands, and if rather dry, moisten with a little sweet milk ; lastly, 
add the oysters, being careful not to break them ; or first put in a 
spoonful of stuffing, and then three or four oysters, and so on until 
the turkey is filled ; stuff the breast first. Truss and spread the 
turkey over with butter, place in dripping-pan in well-heated oven, 
add half a pint hot water, and roast till tender, basting often witk a 
little water, butter, salt and pepper, kept in a tin for this purpose 
and placed on back of the stove. The pastry brush or a swab made 
of a stick with a cloth tied on the end, is better than a spoon with 
which to baste. Turn, baste, dredge and froth as above. Some con- 
sider it nicer to steam the turkey, first rubbing inside Avith salt and 
pepper and tying in shape ; when it begins to grow tender, take out, 
loosen the legs, and rub inside again with salt and pepper, and stuff 
with above dressing of oysters. When done thus, the openings can 
not be sewed up, but a floured cloth must be placed over them and 
tied securely with twine. Roast as above. When turkey is dished 
if there is much fat in the pan, pour off most of it, add the chopped 
giblets with the water in which they were cooked, now stewed down 
to about one pint ; place one or two tablespoons flour (it is better to 
have half of it browned) in a pint bowl, mix smooth with a little 
cream, fill up bowl with cream or rich milk and add to the gravy in 
the pan ; boil several minutes, stirring constantly, and pour in the 
gravy tureen ; serve with currant or apple jelly. A turkey steamed 
in this way does not look so well on the table, but is very tender 
and palatable. It is an excellent way to cook a large turkey. 



POULTRY. 719 



Steamed Turkey. — After dressing, always plumping by plung- 
ing in boiling water, etc., as directed, fill with a stuffing as fol- 
lows, first rubbing inside with salt and pepper ; cut pieces of dry 
bread and crust, not too brown, off a loaf fully three or four days 
old, but not moldy ; place crust and pieces in a pan and j)our on a 
very little boiling water, cover tightly with a cloth, let stand until 
soft, add a tablespoon or two of butter, one or two eggs, and the 
bread from which the crust was cut, so as not to have it too moist. 
Mix well with hands and season to taste ; teaspoon or two of sage or 
mixed preparation of herbs gives a nice flavor. Sew up and truss 
as directed in preface and steam in patent steamer until beginning 
to be tender, which will be in from one to three hours, according to 
size. Then place turkey in dripping-pan with water from pan in which 
turkey was steamed. A steamer can be improvised by putting 
turkey in dripping-pan without any water, then place that on top of 
two or three pieces of wood (hickory or maple is best) laid in bot- 
tom of wash-boiler, with just enough water to cover wood ; put on 
lid, which should fit tightly on boiler, and as water boils away add 
more, being careful not to put any in pan. When cooked as above, 
take out dripping-pan and place in oven, with the water in it but 
not that in boiler. Place upon the turkey, pieces of turkey-fat or 
butter, season with salt and dredge with flour ; after ten minutes, 
baste with the drippings and water in pan, always taking from the 
top, it being richer, then dredge with flour and continue thus as in 
Larded Turkey till nrcely browned and frothed, using melted butter 
for last basting and letting the last dredging become thoroughly 
])rowned before serving. Make a Giblet Gravy as directed, remem- 
bering if turkey was very fat that the flour will not mingle readily 
and smoothly until some of the fat is skimmed off; or if a quantity 
of gravy is wished, add slowly some boiling water till it commences 
to thicken nicely. Steaming keeps the turkey moist, tender and 
free from the least scorching, blistering or shriveling ; and as it is 
only in the oven an hour and sometimes 
less, one can devote plenty of time to the 
basting and dredging, which is one of the . Tdvet. 

most important points in roasting turkey. Having it on a trivet as- 
sists greatly in turning it to baste and dredge. Some, in making 
stuffing, try out fat of turkey at a low temperature, and use instead 
of butter ; others use fat of sweet-pickled pork chopped fine (not 
tried out), with a small quantity of butter, or none at all. Serve 
with Cranberry Sauce. Wild Turkey can be prepared as above or 
may be cooked like any of the ways given for turkey. Jellied 
Turkey is made as Jellied Chicken, and a mixture of slices of cold 
ham, tongue and turkey in the jelly makes a delicious dish. 

Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread-crumbs with a little milk, 
butter a pan and put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of chopped 
(not very fine) cold turkey seasoned with salt and pepper, then a 



720 POULTRY. 



layer of crumbs, and some add a little chopped cold potato, and so 
on until pan is full. If any dressing or gravy has been left add it. 
Make a thickening of one or two eggs, half cup milk, and quarter 
cup each butter and bread-crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; 
cover with a pan, bake half an hour and then let brown ; or instead 
of the milk to moisten make a broth from the bones, skimming them 
out, then thicken a little and pour it over before spreading over the 
top dressing. Scalloped Chicken made as above. 

Stewed^ Turkey. — Simmer the bones and gristle of the turkey 
with a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion and carrot till a well- 
tlavored broth is obtained ; skim out bones, thicken slightly and 
add any cold turkey cut in inch or two inch pieces, and any gravy, or 
season with butter. When heated add cup cold Avater or milk, then a 
few baking-powder dumplings, pinched off in little balls ; place 
where it will cook rapidly and serve as soon as dumplings are done. 
Or omit cold water and dumplings, stir in more thickening if needed 
and when hot pour over croutons of toasted bread placed on plat- 
ter. Or for Turkey Pie, cut pieces in. neat slices and heat as above, 
then skim out and place a layer in baking dish, then a layer of 
sliced raw potatoes, or they may be parboiled first, then turkey, 
etc., till dish is almost full ; pour over the broth, cover with a crust 
as in Chicken Pie and bake in oven. Some do not first heat the 
turkey. For Turkey Soup, see Soups. 

Turkey Croquettes. — Mince cold turkey* as fine as possible, 
season with pepper, salt, a little nutmeg and a very little minced 
onion. Put a large tablespoon butter and two of flour in saucepan, 
when mixed add gill cream, let boil and stir in the meat. Pour out 
and when cold take a spoonful of the mixture, form in balls or egg- 
shapes and single or double-bread and fry as fritters. Some take a 
little stock, if bones have been used for soup and add only a table- 
spoon cream, and onion may be omitted. 



PRESERVES. 721 



P»RESEK.VES. 



Preserves, to be perfect, must be made Avith the greatest care. 
Economy of time and trouble is a waste of fruit and sugar. The 
best are made by putting only a small amount of neatly pared fruit 
at a time in the syrup, after the latter has been carefully prepared 
and clarified. It is difficult to watch a large quantity so as to insure 
its being done to a turn. Put peaches, pears, quinces and apples in- 
to cold water as fast as peeled to prevent their turning dark. The 
old rule is "a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit;" but since the 
introduction of cans, three-quarters pound sugar to a pound fruit is 
sufficient, and even less is sometimes used, the necessity for an ex- 
cess of sugar having passed away, as preserves may be less sweet, 
with no risk of fermentation, if sealed. In making either preserves 
or marmalades, follow the directions as regards kettle, sugar and 
canning, or putting up in jars, already given in Canning Fruits and 
Jams and Jellies. Quinces, pears, citrons, water-melon rinds, and 
many of the smaller fruits, such as cherries, currants, etc., harden 
when put, at first, into a syrup made of their weight of sugar. To 
prevent this they should be cooked till tender in water, or in a weak 
syrup made from a portion of the sugar, adding the remainder after- 
ward. In preserving fruits, such as apples, peaches, tomatoes, 
plums and strawberries, and other fruits, which are likely to becom^ 
too soft in cooking, it is a good plan to pour the hot syrup over the 
fruit, or to strew over it a part or all the sugar, and allow it to stand 
a few hours ; by either method the juice is extracted, and the fruit 
hardened. Another approved method of making fruit firmer, known 
as Sun Preserves, is to skim it out of syrup after cooking a few 



722 PRESERVES. 



minutes, and place in the hot sun two or three hours, place in jars 
and pour over the boiling syrup ; or boil five minutes, then place in 
sun one hour, letting syrup cook slowly on back of stove, put in 
fruit and boil twenty minutes and place in sun another hour, when 
boil till done and put away as directed. Long protracted boiling 
destroys the pleasant natural flavor of the fruit, and darkens it. 

Preserves should boil gently to avoid danger of burning, and in 
order that sugar may thoroughly penetrate fruit. A good syrup is 
made in proportion of half pint water to pound sugar. Use loaf 
or granulated sugar. Put sugar and water over the fire in preserv- 
ing kettle, and just before it boils stir in white of an egg beaten 
lightly with two tablespoons water ; as it begins to boil, remove 
scum with great care ; boil until no more scum arises, and then add 
fruit. Or the white of egg may be mixed thoroughly with the dry 
sugar in the kettle, and the boiling water poured over, when all im- 
purities will immediately arise to the surface with the egg ; then 
boil slowly, or rather simmer, until the preserves are clear. Take 
out each piece with a skimmer and lay on a flat dish to cool, or put 
in jars at once. Cook the syrup, skimming oS the scum Avhich 
rises, until it "ropes" from the spoon. If preserves are already in 
jar pour syrup over them and seal ; if on dishes, return them to 
syrup and boil up once before putting up. This is merely a matter 
of choice, and we have never found any difference in the results of 
the two methods. Preserves may be made from canned fruit (and 
some prefer to do this rather than m.ake in the hot season), using 
less sugar than the rule. When preserving canned peaches or ap- 
])les, it is an improvement to add a few sliced oranges or lemons. 
When berries or small fruits are done, take up with a little strainer, 
and place in cans ; if a cup is used, it is impossible to separate them 
from syrup. Pie-plant can be preserved with any kind of fruit, half 
and half, and in a short time will taste like the fruit with which it is 
mixed. When preserves are candied, set jar in kettle of cold water 
and let boil for an hour, or put them in a crock kept for that pur- 
pose, set in oven and boil a few minutes, watching carefully to pre- 
vent burning. When specks of mold appear, take them off" carefully, 
and scald preserves as above directed. Another method of preserv- 
ing is to cut the fruit, if large, in slices about one-fifth of an inch 
thick, strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the 
bottom of a jar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, 



PRESERVES. 723 



and then another layer of the slices, and so on until the jar is full. 
Place the jar up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till 
sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, remov- 
ing the scum as it rises. Place a brandied paper over top of fruit, 
then cover jar closely and keep in a cool place. Marmalades, or 
different butters, will be smoother and better flavored, and will re- 
quire less boiling, if fruit (peaches, quinces, oranges and apples 
make best) is well cooked and mashed before adding either sugar or 
cider. It is important to stir constantly with an apple-butter stirrer. 
Always tie an oil-cloth cover over the cloth cover on preserves, etc. 



Apple Preserves. — Take three-quarters of a pound sugar to 
each pound apples ; make syrup of sugar and little water in which 
root ginger (bruised and tied in a bag) has been boiled until 
strength is well extracted, add a little lemon juice or sliced lemon, 
skim off all scum, and boil in syrup a few apples at a time, until 
transparent, and place in jar. When all are done, boil syrup until 
thick, pour boiling hot over apples, and cover closely. "Well-flav- 
ored fruit, not easily broken in cooking, should be used. The gin- 
ger may be omitted if disliked, and orange peel or other flavoring 
used instead. Some use pound for pound sugar and fruit and pre- 
fer to chop the apples. To put up With Boiled- Cider, use ec\\m\ 
quantities of sweet and sour apples, peel, quarter, and core, put in 
preserving kettle, after first turning a plate over on bottom to keep 
from burning ; to a peck of apples add a quart boiled-cider, and 
boil steadily and gently an hour, stirring from the sides to prevent 
burning ; then add pint molasses, and Continue boiling five hours. 
The heat must be just enough to keep boiling ; boil them until ap- 
ples are red ; when cold put in glass or stone jars, or wooden 
firkins with tight covers. Sometimes one-fourth the quantity of 
apples is added in quinces or quince parings, when Quince Jelly or 
Preserves are being made. 

BaTherry Preserves. — Take pound white sugar to pound fruit ; 
put sugar over fire in preserving kettle, with half pint cold water to 
each pound ; let the syrup boil slowly, and remove all scum ; pick 
over barberries, removing all defective ones, and keep the bunches 
whole, or pick from stems, as liked ; when the syrup is clear put in 
the berries and boil gently until they begin to look clear ; then 
skim them out, put in glass jars, and boil S3^rup until it thickens a 
little ; test by cooling a little in a saucer, and when of a rich con- 
sistency, but not like jelly, pour over the berries, cool, and put in 
jars. Apricot Preserves are made same way, opening the fruit 
only just enough to remove stones; crack the stones, blanch the 
kernels and put a few in each jar. 



724 PEE SERVES. 



Blackherry Preserves. — Select large, ripe, but not soft berries ; 
the Lawton is best for this purpose, as its acidity makes a soft jell}'' 
of the syrup. Allow pound sugar to pound fruit ; put fruit in preserv- 
ing kettle, let heat slowly on back of stove until there is so much 
juice that it can boil without burning; boil until perfectly tender, 
ten or fifteen minutes ; then add sugar, mix as gently as possible, 
and do not boil again, Ijut keep very hot until sugar is perfectly dis- 
solved. Then fill cans and seal as directed. With (Jurrants., put 
blackberries and sugar in kettle in layers, with sugar at bottom and 
top, and next day add half pint currant juice for each pound ber- 
ries, boil twenty minutes, skimming well, and can as directed. 
Blueberry Preserves made as either recipe ; or some use half blue- 
berries and half currants (instead of juice). This proportion is also 
nice, using quarter as much sugar, canned for pies. Currant and 
Cranberry Preserves made as first recipe, some adding a little water. 

Carrot Preserves. — Boil small fine-grained carrots in water till 
tender; peel and grate, add sugar to taste, slips of citron, spices if 
preferred, and a little grape or currant juice, or if wished very nice, 
orange and lemon juice, half and half, this gives more the flavor of 
wine; simmer slowly together and put away in jars. Very whole- 
some for children and very much liked. 

Cherry Preserves. — Choose sour ones — the early Richmond is 
good — stone very carefully and allow equal quantities sugar and 
fruit ; sprinkle half the sugar over the fruit, let stand an hour, pour 
into preserving kettle and boil slowly ten minutes ; skim out cher- 
ries, add remainder of sugar to syrup, boil, skim and pour over the 
cherries; next day, drain off syrup, boil, skim if necessary, add the 
cherries, boil twenty minutes, and seal up in small jars. Some use 
only three-fourths pound sugar to pound fruit, after standing, and 
prepare syrup and cook same as Barberry Preserves, boiling in the 
syrup half an hour. Or prepare after recipes for Blackberries. 

Citron Preserves. — Pare off rind, seed, cut in thin slices two 
inches long, weigh, and put in preserving kettle with enough water 
to cover ; boil one hour, take out melon, and to water in kettle add 
as much sugar as there is melon by weight, boil until quite thick, 
replace melon, add two sliced lemons to each pound fruit, boil 
twenty minutes, take out, boil syrup until very thick molasses, and 
pour over the fruit. Some mix rind and sugar and let stand over- 
night to harden citron, then finish as above. The juice of lemons 
is preferred by some to the slices, and a few whole cloves may be 
added. Another way of preparing is to peel and cut six pounds of 
rinds, boil them in strong alum water half an hour or until perfectly 
transparent, drain, and put them in a vessel of cold water, cover, 
and let remain overnight. Next morning tie in thin cloth half 
pound race ginger and boil in three pints water until strongly flav- 



PRESERVES. 725 



ored. Break up six pounds loaf sugar in preserving kettle, pour 
ginger water over it, and when dissolved, set it over the fire, add 
juice and grated rinds of four lemons, and boil and skim till no 
scum rises ; put in the rinds and boil till clear. Skim out on dishes 
and set in a dry, cool, dark place, uncovered, two or three days, till 
the watery particles exhale ; then put into jars, gently pour in the 
syrup and seal. Made much handsomer by cutting the citron with 
fancy cutters made for the purpose, or use a vegetable cutter. 

Crab-apple Preserves. — Procure the red Siberian Crab select- 
ing those that are nearly perfect, leaving the stems on, and put in 
preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover. Heat slowly 
to boiling, and simmer until skins break. Drain and skim them ; 
then, with a pen-knife, extract the cores through the blossom ends. 
Weigh and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar and a cup water 
to every pound fruit. Boil water and sugar together until scum 
ceases to rise, skimming well ; put in fruit, cover kettle, and simmer 
until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- 
mer and spread upon dishes to cool and harden ; add to the syrup 
the juice of one lemon to three pounds fruit, and boil until clear and 
rich. Fill jars three-quarters full of apples, pour syrup in, and 
when cool, tie up. Transcendent Crabs are preserved as follows : 
Wipe perfectly sound ripe fruit with a damp cloth, cut off the blos- 
som end, but leave on the stems ; weigh, and allow an equal weight 
in sugar ; put fruit into steamer and cook until tender, watching 
carefully, as they cook very quickl3^ Make a syrup as directed in 
preface, put in the apples and boil gently until they begin to look 
clear, removing all scum that may rise ; when the apples are clear, 
skim them out of the syrup, put into glass jars, and continue to 
boil and skim the syrup until it thickens when a little of it is cooled 
on a saucer ; pour over the apples, and seal the jars air-tight. Some 
peel, quarter and core fruit and put with it an equal quantity of 
raisins, with half pound sugar for each pound of the mixed fruit ; 
make a syrup of sugar with a little water, put in the fruit and cook 
until tender. Put up as above. 

Elderberry Preserves. — Wash and stem the elderberries, re- 
jecting all imperfect ones and boil them in sorghum molasses until 
quite thick, then pour hot into stone crocks and tie up securely with 
a piece of clean soft paper fitted to size of crock laid directly on 
the fruit to take the mold if there be any from a damp cellar. These 
are intended for pies and are to be used as directed in recipe for 
Elderberry Pie. Wild Grapes may be put up in same way and 
make delicious pies. 

Fig Preserves. — Gather fruit when fully ripe, but not cracked 
open ; place in perforated tin bucket or wire basket, and dip for a 
moment into deep kettle of hot and moderately strong lye (some 



726 PEESERVES. 



prefer letting them lie an hour in lime-water and afterwards drain) ; 
make a syrup as directed in preface and when figs are well drained, 
put them in and boil until well cooked ; remove, boil syrup till there 
is just enough to cover fruit, put fruit back in syrup, let all boil, and 
seal up while hot in glass or earthen jars. 

Grajpe Preserves. — Prepare fruit as in Grape Jam taking same 
proportion sugar; put skins and juice in kettle, cover closely, and 
cook slowly until skins are tender; while still boiling add sugar and 
move kettle back, as it must not boil again ; keep very hot for fif- 
teen minutes, then, if sure sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour fruit 
in cans, and screw down covers as soon as possible. To make 
Green Grape Preserves^ halve them and extract seeds with a needle 
or small knife, cook till tender with sugar, pound for pound. Some 
first boil the grapes a few moments in alum water, then drain, and 
put into the syrup. 

Greengage Preserves. — Allow one pound sugar and gill water 
to every pound fruit ; boil sugar and water together ten minutes, 
skimming well ; halve the greengages, take out stones, put fruit into 
syrup, and simmer gently until nearly tender, removing all scum. 
Take off fire, put into large crock, and next day boil again for about 
ten minutes with the blanched kernels from the stones. Put fruit 
carefully into jars, pour the syrup over it and cover when cold. 

MiiXberry Preserves. — Put some of the fruit in preserving kef 
tie, and simmer it gently until the juice flows freely. Strain through 
a bag, measure it, and to every pint juice allow two and a half 
pounds sugar and two pounds fruit. Put sugar in preserving kettle, 
moisten with the juice, boil up, skim well, and add fresh mulberries,, 
Avhich should be ripe, but not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let 
them stand in syrup till warmed through, then boil gently ; when half 
done, turn carefully into crock, and let remain till next day ; then 
boil as before, and when syrup is thick, and becomes firm when cold, 
put preserves into cans or jars. In making this, care should be 
taken not to break mulberries ; stir gently,and simmer the fruit slowly. 

Peach Preserves. — Take any fine peaches that do not mash 
readily in cooking, pare very thinly, halve them and remove pits ; 
take sugar equal in weight to fruit, or if to be sealed in cans, three- 
quarters pound sugar to pound fruit, and water in proportion of a 
half pint to each pound sugar. Boil pits in the water, adding more 
as it evaporates, to keep the proportion good, remove pits, add 
sugar, clarify as directed, and when the scum ceases to rise, add 
fruit, a small quantity at a time ; cook slowly about ten minutes, 
skim out into a jar, add more, and so on until all are done, then 
pour the boiling syrup over all. The next day drain off and boil 
syrup a few minutes only, and pour back, repeating daily until the 
fruit looks clear. Two or three times is generally sufficient. The 



PRESEEVES. 727 



last time put up the preserves in small jars and secure with paper 
as directed for jellies. If to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is 
sufficient, after which put into cans and seal immediately. The lat- 
ter plan is preferable, as it takes less trouble and lerss sugar, while 
the natural flavor of the fruit is better retained. Instead of using as 
above some crack the pits, take out the kernels, blanch them and 
put in the jars with the fruit. Many think peach preserves much 
nicer if made with maple sugar. The best part of a peach lies 
nearest the skin and for this reason some do not peel peached for 
preserves,simply wiping with a woolen cloth to remove fuzz. But peel- 
ing by immersion removes very little of the valued part. Clingstone 
peaches are preserved as above, whole, except that they are put on in 
clear water and boiled until so tender that they may be pierced with 
a silver fork before adding the sugar. For Sun-preserved Peaches, 
place in earthen dishes alternate layers of peaches and sugar and 
let stand overnight: then boil over slow fire until transparent, pour 
into large dishes and stand in the sun until the syrup is almost a 
jelly. Put in jars and see that no bubbles of air are left in them ; 
place brandied paper on top and cover as directed. 

Pear Preserves.— V are, cut in halves, core and weigh, and to 
prevent darkening drop into cold water till ready to use; if hard, boil 
in water until tender, and use the water for syrup ; allow three-quar- 
ters pound sugar for each pound fruit, boil" a few moments, skim, 
and cool ; when lukewarm add pears, and boil gently until syrup 
has penetrated them and they look clear ; some of the pieces will 
cook before the rest, and must be removed ; when done, take out, 
boil down syrup a little and pour over them ; a few cloves stuck 
here and there in the pears add a pleasant flavor. Seal in glass cans. 
Some leave the pears Avhole and boil in water until tender ; then 
take them out, add sugar to water in which they were boiled, and 
when clear and thick, put in the pears and simmer gently half an 
hour. Then can as directed. 

Pie-plant Preserves. — Wash clean, but do not peel ; cut up an 
inch or two in length, put a layer in small jar, then a layer of sugar, 
another layer of pie-plant, then sugar, until the pan or crock is full, 
allowing pound sugar to pound pie-plant; cover tightly, put in hot 
oven, and as soon as it is heated through it is done. The pie-plant 
will be whole, and the syrup rich and a pretty color. Do not put in 
a drop of water. An earthen bean-pot with cover is the best to use, 
and fruit must then cook half an hour. Put up in glass cans. 

Pine-ap2)le Preserves. — Select ripe and perfectly sound pine- 
apples, cut in rather thick sHces, as fruit shrinks very much in boil- 
ing, and pare off rind carefully, notching in and out, as the edge 
cannot be smoothly cut without great waste. Allow pound sugar 
to pound fruit and dissolve a portion of sugar in preserving kettle 
with a gill water ; when this is melted, gradually add remaindei ol' 



728 PRESERVES. 



sugar, and boil until it forms a clear syrup, skimming well, Putin 
pieces of pine-apple and boil well for at least half an hour, or until 
it looks nearly transparent. Put into jars, cover down when cold, 
and store away in a dry place. Some put fruit and sugar in kettle 
in layers, with a cup water for each pound sugar; when it boils take 
out pine-apple and spread on dishes in the sun. Boil the syrup 
half an hour, skimming well. Keturn pine-apple to kettle and boil 
fifteen minutes. Take it out, pack in wide-mouthed jars, pour on 
tlie scalding syrup ; cover to keep in heat, and when cold tie as di- 
rected in preface. Or the pine-apple may be grated, sprinkled with 
the sugar and let stand overnight. Next morning bring to a boil 
and it is done. Put in jars as directed. 

Plum Preserves. Take equal Aveight sugar and plums ; add 
sufficient water to sugar to make a thick syrup, boil, skim, and pour 
over plums (previously Avashed, pricked and placed in a stone jar), 
and cover with a plate. The next day drain off syrup, boil, skim, 
and pour it over plums; repeat this for three or four days, place 
plums and syrup in preserving kettle, and boil very slowly for half 
an hour. Put up in stone jars, cover with papers like jellies, or seal 
in cans. Some simply boil the plums, first pricking them, in the 
thick syrup till tender, then can. Others boil in water to cover (if 
fruit is sour adding a teaspoon soda to each pint water to take off 
the bitter taste) until tender then rinse them in cold water and stone 
carefully, keeping as nearly whole as possible ; then boil them a few 
minutes^ in the thick syrup and can. Or select large ripe plums, 
weigh them, slightly prick them, to prevent from bursting, and sim- 
mer very gently in a syrup made of a quarter pound sugar to each 
pint Avater. Put them carefully in pan, let syrup cool, pour it over 
the plums, and let stand two days, ]Make another syrup of three- 
fourths pound sugar for every pound fruit as first weighed, Avith as 
little water as possible, boiling and skimming carefully. Drain 
plums from first syrup, put them into the fresh syrup, and simmer 
very gently until they are clear ; lift them out singly into cans or 
jars, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover as directed. Green- 
gages are also very delicious done in this manner. To Preserve 
Phi7ns Dry., gather plums when full-grown and just turning color ; 
prick them, put in saucepan cold water, and set over fire until Avater 
is on point of boiling. Then take them out. drain, and boil gently 
in syrup made Avith pound sugar to each gill Avater ; if the plums 
shrink, and Avill not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the 
pan; give another boil, skim, and set away. Next day add more 
sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup ; put all together 
in wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for two nights ; 
then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powderect 
sugar over, and dry them in a cool oven. 



PRESERVES. 729 



Pumpkin Preserves. — Halve a good sweet pumpkin, take out 
seeds, cut into slices, pare, then cut in small ])ieces, weigh and put 
in preserving kettle in layers with same quantity of sugar sprinkled 
between ; add a gill lemon juice on top and let stand two or three 
days. Add a half pint water for every three pounds sugar used and 
boil until pumpkin is tender ; turn into a pan and let remain a week. 
Then drain off syrup, boil until it is thick, skim and pour boiling 
hot back over the pumpkin. A little bruised ginger and thinly 
pared lemon rind, may be boiled with the syrup to flavor. 

Quince Preserves. — Take equal weights of quinces and sugar, 
pare, core, and leave whole or cut up as preferred, boil till tender in 
water enough to cover (some steam them), take out carefully and 
put on a platter ; add sugar to water, replace fruit and boil slowly 
till clear, place in jars and pour syrup over them. To increase the 
quantity without adding sugar, take half or two-thirds in weight as 
many fair sweet apples as there are quinces, pare, quarter, and core ; 
after removing quinces, put apples into the syrup, and boil until 
they begin to look red and clear, and are tender; place quinces and 
apples in jar in alternate layers, and cover with syrup, making very 
nice Quince and Apj^Ie Preserves. Some boil the parings and 
cores, tied in a cloth, with the quinces to enhance the flavor. For 
other use .of parings and cores, see Quince Jelly. Apples alone 
may be preserved in same way. 

Strawherry Preserves. — Take fresh strawberries, cover with 
their weight in granulated sugar and let stand overnight. In the 
morning drain off the syrup, put in preserving kettle, cook about 
twenty minutes, then put in berries and cook ten minutes. Put up 
in glass cans or in jelly glasses. Or put two pounds sugar in pre- 
serving kettle over kettle of boiling water, and add half a pint boil- 
ing water ; when the sugar is dissolved and hot, put in the straw- 
berries, and place the pan directly on the stove or range ; let boil ten 
minutes or longer, if the fruit is not clear ; gently (or the berries will 
be broken) take up with a small strainer, and keep hot while syrup 
is boiled down until thick and rich; drain off thin syrup from cans, 
and pour the rich syrup over berries to fill, and screw down the tops 
immediately. The thin syrup poured off maybe brought to boiling, 
and then bottled and sealed, to be used for sauce and drinks. 
Raspherry Preserves prepared same. 

Tomato Preserves. — Scald and peel carefully small perfectly' 
formed tomatoes, not too ripe (yellow pear-shaped are best), add an 
equal amount of sugar by weight, let lie overnight, then pour off all 
juice into a preserving kettle, and boil to a thick syrup,clarifying with 
white of egg; add tomatoes and boil carefully until they look trans- 
parent. A piece or two of root-ginger, or one lemon to a pound of 
fruit, sliced thin and cooked with fruit may be added. Or when 



730 PRESERVES. 



done, take out fruit with a perforated skimmer aud spread upon 
dishes ; boil syrup until it thickens, adding, just before taking up, 
juice of three lemons ; put fruit into jars and fill up with hot syru]-). 
When cold, seal. Some do not peel tomatoes, but wipe them 
first with a wet cloth, then a dry one, and prick each several times 
with a large needle to prevent bursting, then cook as above. 

Green Tomato Preserves. — To five quarts sliced green tomatoes, 
take three lemons ot more and allow three-fourths pound sugar to 
one pound tomatoes ; cook tomatoes in Avater till soft, then skim out, 
and throw that water away ; make a syrup of sugar, putting the 
lemons in the syrup to cook ; then put in tomatoes, and let them 
just come to a boil. Or take tomatoes size of walnut, or less and 
pierce with a fork. Put half the sugar over them and let stand over- 
night ; in the morning add remainder of sugar with lemons, put 
over fire and simmer, but not boil, until all have changed color or 
become transparent, then cover. Or use only juice of lemons, place 
fruit on plates and finish as in second recipe of Tomato Preserves. 

Water-melon Preserves. — Pare rinds of water-melon, cut in 
pieces two inches long or in leaves, stars, diamonds, triangles, 
hearts, etc. ; weigh, throw into cold water, skim out, add heaping 
teaspoon each salt and pulverized aluin to two gallons rinds, let 
stand until salt and alum dissolve, some leave overnight ; fill kettle 
with cold water, and place on top of stove where it will slowly come 
to boiling point, covering with a large plate so as to keep rinds un- 
der ; boil until they can be easily pierced with a fork, drain from 
water, and put into a syrup previously prepared as follows : Bruise 
and tie in muslin bag four ounces of dried or green ginger-root, and 
boil in two or three pints water until strongly flavored. If green 
root is used, it must be soaked and scraped, so it will not discolor 
the syrup. Add also the rinds of three or four lemons pared in 
quarters (squeeze lemons and use juice as directed hereafter) ; when 
water is well flavored with the rinds, skim them out and put in 
another saucepan, cover with fresh water and boil till tender, then 
cut in narrow strips lengthwise, notching the edges, or cut in any 
shapes wished. Make a syrup of a gill of the water in which ginger 
and lemon rinds were boiled and heaping pint sugar ; when well dis- 
solved, place on fire, boil, add a heaping pint melon, and half dozen 
pieces lemon rinds, boil till transparent ; place in glass cans arrang- 
ing nicest pieces on outside, pour over the hot syrup and seal as 
directed in Canning Fruit. If w^anted very nice have fresh syrup 
made as above and to that proportion add two tablespoons lemon 
juice and pour over; using that in first kettle for cooking a 
second pint of rinds, or can it and use in mince-meat or cooking 
any fruit. Citrons may be prepared in same way, by paring, coring 
and slicing, or cutting into fanciful shapes with tin cutters made for 
the purpose; or left whole, piece removed as if preparing for Man- 



PRESERVES. 731 



goes, and the pulp taken out. After being preserved fill with any 
preserves wished, nicely drained, and tie in the piece; place in jar 
and cover with syrup. Some after cooking melon rinds in water 
put sugar and rinds in alternate layers in jar and let stand over- 
night ; in the morning drain off syrup, heat and boil the rinds in it 
until tender, then take them out into cans or jars and boil the syrup 
till thick, adding lemon and ginger flavoring as above if liked ; pour 
the syrup over the rinds and seal or cover. The ginger root may 
then be preserved with the melon. Others pour a strong salt brine 
over melon or citron pieces and let stand two weeks, or even longer, 
then soak, changing w^^ter two or three times. When perfectly 
fresh, boil in water half an hour, drain, add cold water, cook till 
tender and then preserve in syrup as in first recipe. 

Apple Cheese.— Vut an equal weight pared and cored apples 
and stoned plums into preserving kettle. Boil without adding any 
water. When fruit begins to soften add pound sugar to each pound 
pulp. _ Boil slowly for an hour, and pour into shallow molds ; place 
these in a slow oven when the preserve will dry until it resemlbles 
a fruit cheese. Or, take one pound pulped apples, one pound pow- 
dered white sugar, the juice and grated rind of three lemons, and 
four eggs well beaten. Mix these ingredients carefully, and put 
them into a saucepan with quarter pound fresh butter, melted. Stir 
it over a moderate fire for half an hour without ceasing, and put 
into jars, covering when cold. Use as required for tarts, puffs, etc. 
This is a most delicious preserve, and keeps quite a while. 

Preserved Quinces in Jelly. — Pare, quarter and core quinces, 
cut in little squares and drop into cold water until all are done ; 
then measure and allow an equal amount sugar ; place fruit in porce- 
lain kettle with just water enough to cover, boil till tender, and 
skim out carefully; make syrup of sugar and water in which the 
quinces were boiled, let come to boiling point, skim well, and drop 
the quinces in gently ; boil fifteen minutes and dip out carefully 
into jelly glasses. The syrup forms a jelly around the fruit so that 
it can be turned out on a dish, and is very palatable as well as orna- 
mental. For present use it is nice placed in a fancy mold and served 
when cold. Quinces too defective for preserves may be thus used. 

A-p^jle B letter. —When one barrel of new cider has boiled down 
half, add three bushels good cooking apples and when soft stir con- 
stantly for from eight to ten hours. If done it will adhere to an in- 
verted plate; put away in stone jars (not earthen ware), covering 
first with brandied papper cut to fit jar, and pressed down closely 
upon the apple butter ; then cover the jar with thick brown paper 
tightly tied down. To make a small quantity, some boil down a gal- 
lon new cider to a quart ; then having pared, cored and steamed ap- 
ples till tender, rub them through a sieve and thicken the boiled 



'32 PRESERVES. 



cider with the pulp. A little lemon or orange juice may be added, 
or any fruit juice. The latter is much nicer than to use any spices. 
For Quince and Apple Butter^ pare, core and quarter half as many 
quinces as apples and weigh both, allowing half the weight in sugar. 
Boil quinces in little water until soft, put in apples, when tender 
add sugar and boil slowly several hours. Stir frequently to prevent 
burning. Or quinces may be cored but not pared, cooked as above, 
adding apples, and put through a colander before adding sugar. It 
will then not require so long stirring. Quince Butter made same. 

Egg Butter. — Boil a pint molasses slowly about fifteen or 
twenty minutes, stirring to prevent burning ; add three eggs well 
beaten, stirring them in as fast as possible, boil a few minutes 
longer, partially cool, and flavor to taste with lemon. For Lemon 
Butter see Pastry. 

Peach Butter. — Take pound for pound peaches and sugar; 
cook peaches alone until soft, then put in half the sugar, and stir 
half an hour ; add remainder of sugar, and stir an hour and a half. 
Season with cloves and cinnamon. Or With Vinegar, put in six 
quarts peeled, stoned and sliced peaches in preserving kettle with 
three quarts sugar, and pint vinegar, heat gradually, and simmer 
gently ; carefully stir occasionally until it begins to thicken, and 
then stir almost constantly till consistency of Apple Butter, cook- 
ing three or four hours. Put away as directed, covering first with 
the brandied paper ; or alcohol may be used for wetting the paper. 

Plum Butter. — Stew and pulp wild plums through a sieve, and 
to one gallon of this add three quarts sugar and one desertspoon 
salt ; cook two hours, stirring as directed ; add half pint vinegar, 
two small pieces race ginger, teaspoon each ground cloves, allspice, 
celery seed and two of ground cinnamon, with a pinch cayenne, 
boil up once and can. 

Pumpkin Butter. — Take seeds out of one pumpkin, cut in 
small pieces and boil soft ; cut three other pumpkins in pieces, boil 
them soft, put in a coarse h&g and press out juice ; add juice to pulp 
of first pumpkin, and let boil ten hours or more, till the thickness 
of Apple Butter ; stir often. If pumpkins are frozen, juice will come 
out much easier. Or cook pumpkin in ordinary manner until all or 
nearly all the water is cooked out (see Pumpkin Pies) ; to every three 
gallons pumpkin pulp take one of amber-syrup and ounce each all- 
spice, cloves and cinnamon, and cook well together, or until proper 
consistency for table use ; when made late in fall and put in jars in 
a cool place, Avill keep for months ; very convenient for Pumpkin- 
pies. Another way of preparing is to either steam or bake pump- 
kin, then mash through a strainer, mix sugar and butter with it m 
proportion of a pound sugar and four tablespoons butter to two 
pounds pumpkin, and a piece race ginger bruised, or thinly shaved 



PRESERVES. 733 

lemon rind ; let simmer at back of stove or set upon bricks on stove 
for perhaps an hour. It becomes thick and semi-transparent. 

Tomato Butter. — "Wash ripe tomatoes, cut out any defective parts 
and stew without peeling till very soft ; then pulp through sieve 
and to nine pints pulp take four pints sugar, boil one hour, add an 
ounce powdered cinnamon, or two if liked highly spiced ; let cook till 
thick as Apple Butter, stirring constantly, (about three-quarters of 
an hour longer), and just before it is done add two lemons sliced 
thin. Fill in glass cans, jelly glasses or jars, and seal or cover as 
directed. This can be made from canned tomatoes ; six quart cans 
making above quantity of pulp. For Spiced Tomato Biitter, add 
heaping pint sugar to two quarts pulp, prepared as above, gill vine- 
gar, piece race ginger, half teaspoon each powdered cloves, allspice 
and celery seed, and teaspoon each cinnamon and black pepper. 
Cook and finish as above, 

Apple Marmalade. — Take nice 'sound apples, pare, core and 
cut in small pieces and to every pound fruit add pound sugar. Put 
sugar on to boil \vith enough water to disolve it, boil together 
till thick, then add the apples and boil till clear, adding juice and 
g.*ated peel one large lemon to four pounds fruit. Some like the 
flavor of essence of ginger. Or take twelve pounds richly flavored 
sweet apples, three pounds brown sugar and juice and grated rind 
three lemons. Boil slowly, mash and stir until a smooth marmalade. 

Aprieot Marmalade. — Peel, cut in half and take out stones 
(saving them), and allow one and one-ha^f pounds sugar to each 
pound fruit. Put a layer of fruit in large stone jar, then a layer of 
sugar, and so alternate till all are used, putting athick layer of powder- 
ed sugar over last layer of fruit. Let stand twenty-four hours, then 
put in preserving kettle and boil three-quarters of an hour stirring 
all the time. Crack stones, take out kernels, blanch them, cut into 
thin slices and when marmalade is nearly done put them in and stir 
Avell. When mixture hangs in a thread from spoon it is done. Pour 
in jars, let stand twenty-four hours and cover as directed. 

Fig Marmalade. — Use fine fresh figs, and to every pound fruit 
add three-quarters pound sugar, the yellow rind of an orange or 
lemon pared very thin. Cut up figs, put in kettle with sugar and 
orange, also the juice. Boil until reduced to a thick smooth mass, 
stir from bottom. Put in jars and cover closely. 

Orange Marmalade. — Choose fine Seville oranges, put them 
whole in stewpan with sufficient water to cover, and stew until per- 
fectly tender, changing water two or tliree times ; drain, take off" 
rind, remove seeds from pulp, boil another ten minutes, then add 
peel cut into strips, and boil marmalade ten minutes agnin, Avhen it 
is. done. The juice and grated rind of tuo leuiono.tu every duzen 



7H4 PRESKKVES. 



oranges, added with the pulp and peel of the oranges are a great 
improvement. Pour into jars, cool and cover. Or take twelve 
pounds sour oranges, twelve pounds crushed sugar; wash oranges 
and pare them as apples ; put peel in preserving kettle with twice 
its bulk or more of cold water ; keep covered, and boil until per- 
fectly tender ; if water boils away, add more; the peel is gener- 
ally very hard, and requires several hours boiling; cut oranges in 
two crosswise, squeeze out juice and soft pulp, have a pitcher with 
a strainer in the top, place in a two-quart bowl, squeeze thin juice 
and seeds in the strainer and the rest with pulp in bowl, drawing 
the skin as it is squeezed over the edge of tin strainer, to scrape off 
the pulp, then pour all juice and pulp on sugar; the white skins 
must be covered with three quarts cold water, and boiled half an 
hour ; drain water on sugar, in\t white skins in colander, four or five 
together, and pound oiF soft part, of which there must be in all two 
pounds and four ounces ; put this with sugar and juice ; when peel is 
tender drain it from water, and either pound it in a mortar, chop it 
in a bowl, or cut it in delicate shreds with a pair of scissors, or, to 
save the necessity of handling the peelafteritis boiled, grate yellow 
rind from orange, then tie it in a muslin bag, and boil until soft, 
which can be told l)y rul^bing a little of it between the thumb and 
finger; it is then ready for the other ingredients; put the whoh; in 
a ])orcelain kettle, or in a bright tin preserving pan, and boil about 
an lujiir ; when it begins to thicken it must be tried occasionally, by 
letting a little cool in a spoon laid on ice. To prevent its burning, 
stir constantly ; when done put in glasses arid cover with paper. 

Peach Marmalade. — Choose ripe, well flavored fruit, and it is 
well to make this when making preserves, reserving the softer ones 
for marmalade. The flavor is improved by flrst boiling pits in water 
with which syrup is to be made. Quarter peaches and boil thirty 
minutes before adding sugar, stirring almost constantly from time 
j)eacli('S begin to be tender; add sugar in proportion of three-fourths 
])()un(l sugar to one pound fruit, continue to l)oil and stir for an 
hour longer, and put up in jars, pressing paper over them as directed 
for jellies. Some add juice of a lemon to every three pounds fruit 
and the blanched kernels as in Apricot Marnialade* Or a large rijjc 
pine-apple, pared, cut fine and cooked with peaches, gives fine flavor. 

Fme-apple jMarinalade. — Pare pine-aj^ples, take out eyes, weigh 
and allow a pound granulated sugar to every pound fruit; gratu 
pine-apple, or shred with a silver fork, ])ut over the fire, add the 
sugar gradually, and cook very gently until clear and thick as jelly, 
stirring often. Put up in air-tight cans. Some chop pine-apple and 
steam until tender, then put into a syrup of the sugar moist- 
ened with half pint water for each pound, and cook and stir as above. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 735 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



Not any ingredient of doubtful quality should enter into the compo- 
sition of puddings. Suet must he perfectly sweet and milk should 
be fresh and without the least unpleasant flavor. Suet when over 
kept or milk soured or curdled in the slightest degree, ruins a })U(L 
ding which would otherwise be most delicious. Prepare raisins and 
currants as directed on page 65 ; adding a little flour to the raisins 
while cleaning will be found an improvement, and if a colander witli 
small holes is at hand, use this for washing the currants ; put currants 
in colander, set in hot water, stir briskly about and change water two 
or three times. Almonds and spices must be very finely pounded, and 
the rinds of oranges or lemons grated lightly off (th inner white part 
of the peel is bitter and must not be used). In making })udding 
when butter and sugar are used it is better to cream them together 
before adding to other ingredients. "6Ve«mm^" is simply beating 
until they assume a light frothy appearance, and butter is some- 
times creamed, or beaten till light, alone. Always beat eggs separ- 
ately, straining the yolks, and adding whites the last thing. If 
boiled milk is used, cook in custard kettle, and let it cool somewhat 
before adding eggs ; be sure that the mixture is free from lumps and 
when fruit is added stir it in at the last. Some cooks never use 
either soda or baking powder in puddings, beating the mixture un- 
til so light nojje is needed. Puddings are either baked, boiled or 
steamed ; Rice, Bread, Custard, and Fruit puddings require a moder- 
ate heat ; Batter and Corn-stai'oh, a rather quick oven. Always bake 
them as soon as mixed. Add a pinch of salt to any pudding and 
use rather too little than too much sugar as it tends to make the 
pudding heavy, and the sauce can be made sweeter if necessary. 



'36 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



Boiled puddings are lighter when boiled in a bag and allowed 
full room to swell, but many use a buttered tin mold or bowl with 
floured cloth tied over it ; do not fill full, and in boiling do not let water 
reach quite to top, keeping it boiling all the time. After tying cloth, 
bring the ends back together, and pin them over the top of 
the dish ; the pudding may then be lifted out easily by a strong 
fork put through the ends or corners of the cloth. Pudding 
Bags are either knitted or made of firm white drilling, tapering from 
top to bottom, and rounded on corners ; stitch and fell seams, which 
should be outside when in use, and sew a tape to seam, about three 
inches from top. Wring bag out of hot water, flour inside well, pour 
in pudding (which should be well beaten the instant before pour 
ing), tie securely, leaving room to swell, (especially when made 
of Indian meal, bread, rice, or crackers), generally a space equal 
to one -third the bulk of the pudding, and place in a kettle with 
a saucer at the bottom to prevent burning ; immediately pour 
in enough boiling water to entirely cover bag, which must be 
turned several times, keeping water boiling, filling up from tea- 
kettle when needed. Open bag a little to let steam escape^ 
and serve immediately, as delay ruins all boiled puddings. For 
plum puddings, invert the pan when put in the kettle, and the 
pudding will not become water-soaked. When the pudding is done, 
give whatever it is boiled in a quick plunge into cold water, and 
turn out at once, serving immediately. As a general rule boiled pud- 
dings require double the time required for baked. Pudding-cloths, 
however coarse, should never be washed with soap, but in clear, 
clean water, dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and out of 
dust in a drawer or cupboard free from smell. Steaming is safer and 
hetter than either boiling or baking, as the pudding is sure to be light 
and wholesome. Prepare the pudding mold, etc., same as for boiling, 
put on over cold water and do not remove cover while steaming, al- 
lowing a third more time than is required for boiling. After the 
water begins to boil do not let it sto2) hoiling until the pudding is 
done, adding hoiling water from the tea-kettle as needed. When a 
patent steamer is not used, to add water without removing cover, 
lift the steamer partially off" from kettle and turn it in at the side. 
Serve steamed pudding as soon as done, or place in oven a little 
while to dry it off" and brown if wished. Dates are an excellent sub- 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 737 




stitute for sugar in Graham or any other pudding. The flat-bot- 
tomed mold used for baking cakes is especially nice for 
baking fruit or solid puddings. For those that contain 
a quantity of milk and eggs, it is better to place the dish 
in oven, in dripping-pan, half full of hot water, as they 
cakT-Mi^dr'^ will bake more slowly and without any danger of burn- 
ing. It is called the Water-hath., and one must allow fifteen or 
twenty minutes longer when puddings are thus baked. It is also a nice 
way for any that are apt to stick to the dish, such as Indian, Batter, 
etc. For baked puddings that are to be turned out to serve, sprink- 
ling the bottom and sides of dish or mold, after greasing,with bread- 
crumbs, prevents them from sticking, and many puddings that are 
commonly baked in a crust, such as Cocoa-nut, Potato, Apple, and 
Lemon, are equally as good and more wholesome made by using 
bread-crumbs as above to the usual depth of crust ; pour in pudding, 
strow another layer of bread-crumbs over the top, and 
bake. When puddings are poured into mold to cool, 
always wet the mold before filling. Sweet milk can be 
substituted for sour and vice versa, by using soda with 
the sour, and baking powder, or cream tartai and soda p„,Mi„, m..i^ 
with the sweet, and milk can be used instead of cream by using a 
tablespoon or two of butter with it. The souffle dish illustrated on 
page 125 is very nice for puddings which are to be served in dish 
in which they are baked. Or a Knitted Cover for the bottom, may 
be made to fit an ordinary pudding dish, of white cotton or macreme 
cord, in any fancy stitch, with cord and balls of same, or any color 
to match table furniture, to tie around top of dish and hold it in 
place. Puddings are often garnished with bits of bright jelly, al- 
monds whole or sliced, or candied fruits, and are served either 
moderately warm or cold, never hot except souffles and such as are 
so mentioned in recipes. 

In making Sauces., do not boil after butter is added. In place 
of wine or brandy, flavor with the juice of the grape, or any other 
fruit juice prepared as directed in Fruits. The Fruit Flavors, given 
in Jellies, are also nice, or use orange and lemon juice, half and 
half, being careful to add lemon juice just before removing from 
fire, as it is apt to grow bitter Avith long cooking. When using corn- 
starch, stir it with the sugar Avhile dry and no lumps will form. 
The sauce may be served either poured over or around pudding, or 




738 PUDDTNOS AND SAUCES. 



i,i s;iuc('-boat, and one can select sauce as wished, although one h 
named with almost each pudding, and serve either hot or cold. 



Fruit Charlotte. — Boil pint and a half milk or cream over slow 
fire and stir in gradually yolks of six eggs beaten with two table- 
spoons arrowroot, or corn-starch ; cook ten minutes, stirring con- 
stantly that it may be perfectly smooth. Then divide mixture by 
turning half inlo another saucepan ; to one half add ten tablespoons 
• grated chocolate, four of fine granulated sugar, simmer a few min- 
utes, take off fire and set away to cool. Blanch a dozeni bitter al- 
monds and four ounces shelled sweet almonds and pound n mortar 
with enough rose-water to make a smooth paste, add an ounce finely 
chopped citron, cup powdered sugar, and stir all into the other halt 
of cream mixture, simmer a few moments, set aside to cool and add 
vanilla flavoring. Cut a large sponge cake in slices crosswise half 
an inch thick, spread one slice thickly with the chocolate cream, 
putting another slice on top of this and cover with the almond 
cream ; do this alternately, piling them evenly on a china dish till 
all ingredients are used, arranging in form of sponge cake before it 
was cut. Have ready whites of six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, 
mix in six tablespoons powdered sugar, and with a spoon heap thi.^ 
all over top and sides of cake, then sift powdered sugar over and 
brown lightly in oven ; or cover with Whipped Cream. Delicious. 

Ajjple Dumplings. — Add two cups sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, and one of salt, half cup of butter or lard, flour enough to make 
dough a little stifter than for biscuit ; or make a good baking-pow- 
der crust ; peel and core apples, and wash them, roll out crust about 
quarter of an inch thick, cut out circles to fit apples, place latter on 
dough, fill cavity with sugar, and some add a little cinnamon, nut- 
meg or grated lemon rind, encase each apple in the crust, wet edges 
and press tightly together, (it is nice to tie a cloth around each one), 
put into kettle of boiling water slightly salted, boil half an hour, 
taking care that the water covers the dumplings. Some who do not 
tie in a cloth roll two or three times in dry flour. They are also 
very nice steamed, browned in oven if wished. Serve with sugar 
and cream or any hot sweet sauce. If boiled in knitted cloths 
dumplings have a very pretty appearance. The cloths should be 
made square, knit in plain stitch with very coarse cotton and just 
large enough to hold one dumpling. For Baked Dumplings^ make 
in same way, not mixing the dough so stiff, or using a Quaker Paste, 
place in a shallow buttered pan, without touching each other, prick 
the top with a fork, bake in a hot oven, turning once or twice, if 
necessary, to brown evenly, and serve with cream and sugar or a 
Wolverine Hauce made by cooking tart apples sliced, until soft 
mshing, or rubbing through puree sieve if wished ; sweetening and 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 739 



flavoring with vanilla or a little strawberry or raspberry juice (it is 
nice to always can some juice to have for flavoring sauces). A 
spoonful or two of whipped cream, or beaten white of an egg added 
just before serving is an addition. Any fruit may be used in dump- 
lings. Or, place in pan which is four or five inches deep (do not have 
them touch each other) ; then pour in hot water, just leaving top of 
dumplings uncovered, and to a pan of four or five dumplings, add 
one cup sugar and half cup butter ; bake from half to three-quarters 
of an hour. If water cooks away too much, add more. Serve dump- 
lings on platter and the liquid in sauce-boat for dressing. They 
are called Buckeye Dumplings when cooked in this way ; or some 
put them in dripping-pan with simply hot water an inch deep, or 
enough to almost cover the dumplings and baste occasionally with 
the hot water. Peach Dumplings may be made any of above ways 
with either fresh or canned fruit. For Rolled A2wle Dumplings, 
peel and chop tart apples fine, make a crust of one cuj? rich butter- 
milk, teaspoon soda, and flour enough to roll ; roll half an inch 
thick, spread with the apple, sprinkle well with sugar and cinna- 
mon, cut in strips two inches wide, roll each strip up like jelly cake 
and place the rolls in a dripping-pan, putting a teaspoon butter on 
each ; put in moderate oven, and bake, basting often with the juice. 
Serve with Dip Sauce. 

Currant Dumplhigs. — Chop fine six ounces suet, mix it with a 
pound flour, and add half pound dried currants, Avhich should be 
nicely washed, cleaned and dried ; mix whole to a soft paste with 
half pint water (if wanted very nice, use milk); divide into seven 
or eight dumplings ; tie them in cloths and Ijoil for an hour and a 
quarter. Or make into round balls and l)oil without a cloth, drop- 
ping into boiling water, then moving about at first, to prevent stick- 
ing to bottom of pan. Serve with Lemon Sauce. 

Lemon Dumplings. — For half dozen dumplings take quarter 
pound suet, chopped fine, half pound bread (about half ordinary 
loaf) grated, juice and grated rind of one lemon, three heaping table- 
spoons sugar, two eggs, beaten slightly, and enough milk to moisten 
all ingredients so as to form little balls or dump- 
lings with the hands ; have ready six pieces 
cloth, one quarter yard square, with tapes to tie ; 

dip cloths in hot water, spread on table, dust 

Lemoa Dumpiiugs. wltli flour, placc lu a dumpllug, tie, leaving a 

little room for it to swell, when all are ready put in large pot half 
full of boiling water and boil steadily one hour, keeping on cover. 
Sprinkle sugar over and serve with Cream or Lemon Sauce. For 
Lemon ApjAe Lhim'plings, add to above one large greening apple, 
chopped fine ; or a nice dumpling is made by omitting lemon, and 
using cup chopped apple. 




740 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

Rdspherry Diimplings. — Make a stiff Quaker Paste, pinch oft' a 
piece and roll into a circle about three inches in diameter, and quar- 
ter of an inch thick ; put in berries, wet edges and press together in 
turn-over shape, and bake like Apple Dumplings in a moderate oven 
about forty minutes. Some use the Water-bath as described in pre- 
face. Serve with Lactiola Sauce. Any Berry or Cherry Dum'plings 
made same way. 

Almond Pudding. — Blanch and pound, with a little rose-water, 
three ounces sweet and four of bitter almonds ; add pint milk, three 
tablespoons sugar, a little ground nutmeg, tablespoon flour mixed 
smoothly in a little cold milk, tablespoon bread-crumbs, two well- 
beaten eggs and whites of two more eggs whisked to a froth ; pour 
mixture into buttered mold, cover, and boil quickly three-quarters 
of an hour ; let it stand a few minutes before turning out of mold. 
Serve with Apricot Sauce. Or for an Almond SouMe, blanch and 
pound six ounces sweet almonds, sprinkling in a little orange juice 
during the process, and let come to a boil in a pint and a half milk ; 
stir in two tablespoons corn-starch, first mixed smooth with a little 
cold milk and cook till mixture thickens ; take from fire and when 
slightly cool add three tablespoons each sugar and melted butter, 
beaten j'^olks of eight eggs, and Avhipped whites last. Bake in but- 
tered souffle dish half an hour, sift sugar over top and serve at once. 
Only two-thirds fill dish as it rises very much. Ahnond Pii^s are 
nice for desert. Blanch and pound two ounces sweet and four of 
bitter almonds in mortar to smooth paste; melt two tablespoons 
butter, dredge in four of flour, add four of sugar and the pounded 
almonds. Beat mixture well, and put into well-buttered cups, and 
bake in moderate oven about twenty minutes, or longer should the 
puffs be large. Turn on dish and serve,bottom of pufts uppermost. For 
Scalloped Ahnonds, cut light biscuit or rolls in thin slices, line a 
buttered pudding dish with them ; pound to a paste four ounces 
shelled and blanched almonds, add two tablespoons sugar, teaspoon 
powdered cinnamon and grated peel of a lemon ; sprinkle half of 
this mixture over the slices, then add another layer of sliced bis- 
cuit, cover with the rest of mixture and a third layer of biscuit, dot- 
ting with a few bits of butter. Mix six or eight well-beaten eggs 
with a quart milk, pour in the dish and bake in moderate oven. 
When done, loosen by passing a knife along the edges, turn on a 
flat dish and serve with Lemon Sauce poured around it ; or reserve 
three or four whites, make a meringue and when pudding is done, 
spread over top, brown in oven and serve in dish in which it was 
baked, using the Knitted Cover. For Cape May Pudding, cover 
a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of any kind of jam, 
half an inch thick ; beat yolks of five eggs with Avhite of one, and 
add cup and a half sugar, cup melted butter, and two dozen Itlanched 
and ])ounded almonds ; beat all together until well mixed, then pour 
in dish over jam, and bake an hour in moderate oven. Make a 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 741 



meringue of the four whites of eggs and put over top when clone. 
Or line a dish with bread-crumbs, put in the layer of jam ; then l)eat 
four eggs with four tablespoons sugar and stir into pint milk with 
three tablespoons butter and an ounce blanched and pounded al- 
monds, pour into dish, bake as above and serve with Arrowroot Sauce. 

Apple Pudding. — As this is a standard dish we give a number 
of the most excellent recipes from which housekeepers can make 
selections according to taste or the material or time at command. 
Brown Betty is a very quick and easily-made pudding. For this 
put a layer mashed and sweetened apple sauce in buttered dish, add 
a few lumps of butter, then a layer of cracker or bread-crumbs 
sprinkled with a little cinnamon, then layer of sauce, etc., making 
the last layer of crumbs ; bake in oven, and eat hot with cold, sweet- 
ened cream. Or for Sweedish Apple Pudding sprinkle sides of 
buttered dish with bread-crumbs and put a layer in bottom, upon 
this drop a little melted butter and then put a layer of dried apple 
sauce, or fresh fruit may be used, mashed and flavored with lemon 
extract or canned raspberry or strawberry juice, dotting the laver 
with raisins, then a layer of dessicated cocoanut, soaked in a little 
milk, then crumbs and so on till dish is full, with crumbs and but- 
ter last ; bake half an hour and serve cold with Vanilla Sauce made 
by beating quarter-pint each cream and milk, adding a teas])oon 
corn-starch made smooth in a little milk, half gill sugar and flavor- 
ing with vanilla ; when almost cold stir in the beaten yolk of one 
egg and pour around the pudding. With Easpherries, use fresh 
berries, without cooking, instead of the apple sauce, omitting raisins 
and cocoa-nut, although latter isvery nice with berries. Somecover 
either pudding with a plate, removing just before it is done, to 
brown top nicely. Serve hot or cold. Equal amount crumbs and 
fruit may be used, but it is nicer with twice as much fruit as crumbs. 
Any fresh or dried berries of any kind may be used, first cooking 
the latter. Thin slices of bre.ad, buttered on"^both sides, may be sub- 
stituted for the crumbs, with uncooked sliced apples sprinkled 
with butter, sugar and cinnamon for the sauce or berries ; putting in 
layer of bread first, with top layer apples, or the buttered bread last, 
when it should be covered with a plate as above. Apples may be 
flavored with grated lemon rind or nutmeg. Bake from half to 
three-quarters of an hour. Serve with sugar and cream, or any 
sauce preferred ; or use only two layers of bread and butter, one at 
l)ottom and top with apples between. Make Currant Pudding 
same, using ripe stewed currants instead of apples, and Blueberry 
Pudding is delicious made as above, first steAving the fruit or not 
as wished. Any berries may be used same. Serve cold. For an 
Apple Charlotte Pudding^ stew pound cored, pared and qu rtered 
apples with half pint water, cup sugar and a little lemon extract till 
they will mash. Cut biscuits in slices, fry them in butter or lard 
place in fruit dish, spread Avith th« apples, then a layer of jelly or 



742 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



jam, then another layer of bread, apples and jam and so on, apples 
on top. Make it an hour or two before eating and put whipped cream 
on top. To make a Batter Apple Pudding, peel and core apples 
and place neatly in buttered dish in which to be served, filHng core 
cavities with sugar if sour. Make batter of four well-beaten eggs, 
})int rich milk, two cups flour, teaspoon salt and two of baking-pow- 
der. Beat till very light, pour over apples and bake half an hour, 
or steam three-quarters of an hour ; serve hot as alcove. For a 
Boded Apple Pudding, line dish with a good baking-powder or 
plain suet crust, with which an egg has been mixed, fill with sliced 
apples, sprinkle in sugar and cinnamon or any spice liked, tie in a 
Houred cloth, put in boiling water and boil nearly two hours ; or it 
may be steamed. Serve with Wolverine Sauce. For Bird''s- 
nest Pudding, pare and core without quartering,enough quick-cook- 
ing, tart apples to fill pudding dish ; make a custard of one quart 
milk and yolks of three or four eggs, some use less eggs, adding 
tablespoon corn-starch for each egg omitted ; sweeten, spice, pour 
over apples, and bake ; when done, beat the whites of eggs stiff 
Avith tablespoon white sugar to each egg; spread on custard or 
crown each nest or apple with a spoonful of meringue, brown 
lighily, and serve either hot or cold. If necessary, apples may Ite 
baked a short time before adding custard, and if wanted very nice, 
steam the apples, put in buttered dish, fill core cavities with jelly or 
jam or sugar, stoned raisins and bits of butter and citron, cover each 
with a slice of steamed ay^ple, or grate over the rind of a lemon and a 
little nutmeg ; pour over custard ; or a richer dressing made by 
creaming a cup butter with two cups sugar, adding eight well-beaten 
eggs, beating all together with a gill of milk and cooking in custard 
kettle till thick as boiled custard ; bake and finish as above. 3Iin- 
nehaha Pudding is a very dainty dessert. To prepare, peel, core and 
boil apples until soft enough to pulp through colander ; sweeten to 
taste, add a little powdered cinnamon, put in deep dish, and when 
quite cold, pour a custard made of yolks of three or four eggs and 
one quart of milk, sweetened to taste over it and bake in oven fifteen 
or twenty minutes. Whip whites of eggs adding tablespoon sugar 
to each egg and lay it daintily in small pieces on custard or spread 
it on and brown in oven. Equally good hot or cold. Or omit the 
milk and add yolks of two eggs to a pint mashed and sweetened ap- 
ple sauce ; put in buttered dish, bake and finish as above ; or if 
wished richer add three tablespoons melted butter, gill of sifted 
bread-crumbs and two more eggs, yolks and whites beaten separ- 
ately, bake and finish with meringue. 

Rice Apples. — Boil half pound rice and quart milk in custard 
kettle till tender ; sweeten with half cup sugar ; pare and core with ap- 
ple-corer seven or eight good-cooking apples, place in slightly but- 
tered baking dish, put a teaspoon jam or jelly into each cavity, and 
fill with rich cream ; put the rice in around apples, leaving top uu- 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 743 



covered ; bake thirty minutes, then cover with wliites of two eggs, 
sift on sugar, and return to oven for ten minutes. Serve with Dip 
Sauce. If not a quick-cooking variety the apples may first be 
steamed till half cooked. Some stir into the cooked rice the well- 
beaten yolks of two eggs, four tablespoons butter, a little sugar, a 
few grated almonds or little vanilla extract and lastly the well-frothed 
whites ; then finish as above. Or the prepared rice and jam or jelly 
maybe put in dish in layers Avith the apples, which must first be 
stewed and pulped through sieve. Sprinkle top with sifted bread- 
crumbs and bake. Tapioca may be used instead of rice. To make 
a Scottish Pudding ,VLi\x. two tablespoons arrowroot with pint cream ; 
add two tablespoons sugar, put in stewi)an and place over fire until 
it boils. Put in dish alternate layers of thinly-sliced apples, sugar 
and bits of butter ; when two-thirds full put in a cup jam as next 
layer, and over all pour arrowroot mixture. Bake in moderate oven 
twenty-five minutes. For Bachelor s Pudding^ take a cup finely 
chopped apples, mixed with a cup currants, four tablespoons sugar, 
cup sifted bread-crumbs and three well-beaten eggs, with a few drops 
of lemon -extract and little grated nutmeg. Beat well together, put 
in buttered dish, tie down with a cloth and boil or steam tliree 
hours. Serve with Minnehaha Sauce. For Danish Pudding, cook 
two quarts sliced tart apples with half cup water till tender ; stir 
in two tablespoons butter and half cup sugar, mixing and mashing 
thoroughly, and some put through colander. Put this as the bot- 
tom layer in dish in which pudding is to be served ; then put in fry- 
ing-pan two and a half teaspoons butter, and when melted add one 
and a half cups dry bread-crumbs, cup sugar, and half pound al- 
monds (weighed in shell) blanched and finely chopped ; stir con- 
stantly about ten minutes or till well mixed ; place this while hot as 
the second la3^er in tlie dish ; then in their season take one quart 
blackljerries and half cup sugar and cook to a jam, or in winter use 
a jelly glass of jam, or any fruit may be used, and spread this for the 
third layer. All this can be prepared the day before using ; before 
serving cover with a pint cream well whipped, sweetened to taste, 
and flavored with vanilla. This fills a two-quart dish, is sufficient 
for twelve or fourteen persons, and is a delicious dessert. The layer 
of fruit may be omitted, putting in alternate layers of the bread- 
crumb mixture and apples with the former on bottom and top. Or 
some add a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg to the stewed apples, 
then make a batter of yolks of six eggs well beaten, cup and a half 
sugar, half pound blanched and grated almonds, and the well-beaten 
whites. Butter the baking dish, put the apples in first, then a layer 
of jelly or jam, then the batter. Bake about an hour and cool. 
Serve with Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Arroiuroot Pudding. — Mix two tablespoons arrowroot with cup 
milk ; flavor pint and a half milk as liked, put over fire, and when it 
boils pour it on the arrowroot ; stir well, and when cool, add three 



"44 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



well-beaten eggs and tablespoon each sugar and orange juice ; put 
in well-buttered mold, cover, and steam one hour and a half; turn 
out on a dish, arrange preserves or jam neatly around it, and 
serve. Some use more sugar, and bake instead of steaming, sprink- 
ling sugar ovei when done and returning to oven a few minutes to 
o-laze. Very nice served cold. Or With Fruit put a cup cream 
and one-quarter cup milk over boiling water ; mix two tablespoons 
arrowroot smooth in four tablespoons milk, add five tablespoons sugar 
and vanilla flavoring ; when the cream is hot, stirthis in and cook until 
thick as mush ; stir in a cup candied fruit, which, if larger than cher- 
ries, should be cut. Pour in a mold. When cold, turn out and orna- 
ment with whole macaroons ; they adhere easily and may be arranged 
as fancied, either over entire mold or in one or two diagonal rows 
across. Serve surrounded with Custard or Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Batter Puddinc/. — Put pint and a half milk on to heat, reserv- 
ing enough to mix four tablespoons flour smooth ; when hot, turn 
the milk over the flour gradually, stirring to avoid lumps and add 
two tablespoons butter, a little salt and four or five well-beaten eggs, 
or add them one at a time and any flavoring desired, beat all thor- 
oughly, turn into buttered dish, or cups and bake from a half to 
three-quarters of an hour. Turn out and serve hot with any sauce 
liked. Or the pudding may be boiled if a cloth is first tied round 
the dish. Excellent served with orange marmalade or other pre- 
serves over the top, passing sugar and cream with it. For Batter 
Balls, drop from a spoon and fry like fritters ; dram, sprmkle with 
suc^ar and serve at once. Or any fresh or dried fruits preferred may 
be'^stirred in just before cooking in any of above ways. Or for 
Steamed Batter Ptidding,take half cup each sugar, and butter, three 
eogs, one cup sweet milk, three teaspoons baking powder, tAvo cups 
flour steam one hour and serve with sauce. Less eggs and butter 
maybe used; and With Fruit, pour the batter over a pint and a 
half stoned cherries, sliced apples or peaches, or any berries. Some 
have the dish of fruit in steamer, so as to be scalding hot, then pour 
over the batter and steam as above. Three heaping tablespoons 
corn meal are nice used, then only taking a heaping cup flour. 
Serve with Chocolate Sauce. Buttermilk or sour milk may also be 
used with level teaspoon soda instead of baking powder. 

Bread Puddinff.—Th^s is one of the most common of puddings, 
a general favorite, and the recipes given are so varied as to meet the 
requirements of all. For a Plain Pudding, break up pieces of stale 
bread into bits, and pour on them as much boiling water as will 
soak them well. Let stand till water is cool ; then press out, and 
ma'^h bread with a fork until quite free from lumps. Measure and 
to everv quart stir in half teaspoon salt, teaspoon nutmeg, six table- 
SDOons^u<Tar and half pound currants ; mix all well together, and 
put it in well-buttered baking dish. Smooth surface with back of 



PUDDINSS AND SAUCES, 745 

spoon, and put a tablespoon and a half butter in small bits over top ; 
bake in moderate oven one hour and a half, and serve very hot with 
Maple Sugar Sauce. Boiling milk instead of water very much im- 
proves the pudding. A Monday Pudding is hardly a pudding at 
all but does very well for a hastily prepared dessert. Cut crust from 
loaf of bread, fold latter in a napkin and steam twenty minutes ; or 
cut bread in even slices, steam half an hour and serve with Every- 
day Sauce. Or the bread may be buttered and spread with preserves 
or jelly, then steamed. For a Layer Pudding, put slices of bread 
prepared thus in layers in baking dish and pour over half the Boiled 
Custard given on page 119. Or put currants with nutmeg seasoning 
between the layers of buttered bread. Some first line the dish or 
mold with raisins, then fill with the bread and butter, pour the cus- 
tard over as above and steam half an hour ; or tie a floured cloth 
over and boil. Serve hot with any sauce liked. Or, halve the rais- 
ins and place around the mold in rows, diamonds or circles ; they 
will easily adhere if the mold is well buttered ; make half as much 
custard as above, usingtwo eggs, into which stir a pintbread-cruml)s 
and half cup chopped raisins, put into prepared mold and steam an 
hour. Turn out and eat with any sauce. For the regular Bread 
Pudding, take quart each sweet milk and bread-crumbs, four eggs, 
four tablespoons sugar; soak bread in half the milk until soft; 
mash fine, add rest of milk, the well-beaten eggs and sugar, and 
tablespoon butter if wanted richer ; bake one hour, serve warm with 
any hot sauce or Maple Sugar Hard Sauce. Some first boil the 
milk with two ounces candied lemon peel and six bitter almonds to 
obtain the flavor, or flavor with nutmeg, then pour it over the crumbs. 
Bake in either a deep pudding dish or custard cups. A cup raisins 
or currants are added when liked ; and cracker-crumbs may be used 
instead of bread ; or With Cherries, add quart stoned cherries, us- 
ing only bread-crumbs and serve with Cherry Sauce ; or With 
Peaches add pint canned peaches, mashed, instead of cherries. 
Steam an hour and a half. For a more elaborate Fruit Pudding, 
soak a pint bread-crumbs in half pint milk fifteen minutes, add two 
tablespoons butter, melted, half cup sugar, beaten yolks of four 
eggs, teaspoon cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves, grated rind of one 
lemon, two ounces sliced citron and quarter pound each currants 
and stoned raisins, with whipped whites of eggs beaten in last. 
Bake in buttered mold or cups, set in pan of hot water and when 
ready to serve turn out, sift powdered sugar over and send on with 
very hot sauce. Sufficient for ten persons. Some use quarter 
pound finely chopped suet instead of butter, and three ounces 
blanched and chopped almonds, or same quantity chopped figs. 
Steam or boil three or four hours. Or make Florentine Pudding 
by omitting the milk, spices and all fruit except the raisins, adding 
lialf pint chopped sour apples and half cup more sugar. Serve witli 
Raspberry Sauce. Oooi&herry Pudding is made as Florentine 



7-1 G PUDDINGS A\D SAUCES. 

Pudding, omitting the raisins and apples and using a quart stewc(l 
and sweetened gooseberries. Bake half an hour in buttered mold, 
turn out, dust powdered sugar over and serve hot with Custard or 
Every-day Sauce. For Brown Bread Pudding^ omit the apples in 
Florentine Pudding and use crumbs of brown bread instead of 
white, and currants instead of raisins, if preferred. Boil or steam 
three hours. The Queen of Puddings is ix very nice dessert : Mix 
together pint sifted bread-crumbs, quart milk, cup sugar, yolks of 
four eggs, butter size of an egg and some add grated rind of lemon ; 
bake until done — but do not allow to become watery — and spread 
Avith a layer of jelly. "Whip whites of eggs to a stiff froth with five 
tablespoons sugar, and juice of one lemon, spread on toj) and brown. 
Serve with Hard Sauce, or it is often eaten without any sauce, and 
very good cold. For Cocoa-7iut Pudding, ^oaWxnXi q\x\) dessicated 
cocoa-nut in boiling hot milk half an hour or more, and add to above, 
baking and finishing same. For Orange Pudding add a half dozen 
grated oranges and serve with Strawberry Sauce. 

Brown Pudding . — Cream quarter cup each butter and l)rown 
sugar, add three well-beaten eggs, quarter cup sweet milk, half pint 
molasses with half teaspoon soda stirred in, one and one-half cups 
flour, half teaspoon each cinnamon and cloves. Bake or steam in 
buttered dish one hour. Serve with Jelly Sauce. Make a Black- 
herrg or Blueherry Pudding by adding to above another cup flour 
and quart fresh berries. Or mix a cup white sugar with the 
berries, add five well-beaten eggs and stir in one and one-half pints 
each milk and sifted flour. Bake in buttered dish and serve with 
Dip or Fruit Sauce. 

Cabinet Pudding. — Take a sheet of sponge cake and half pound 
French candied fruit (apricot, pear, cherries, a lime), and ounce 
citron ; cut citron in shape of leaves. Butter tin mold thickly with 
cold butter, press the fruit in any pretty designs on bottom and 
sides of mold, using large fruits for centers and citron leaves around. 
Cut sponge cake to fit bottom of mold, place over 
fruit, and also line sides with the cake, then put 
in some more of the fruit (cherries), then another .,..^,_____,^_ 
layer of cake, then fruit, etc., with last layer of cabinet Pudding 
cake, pressing cake firmly in mold. Make custard of pint milk, six 
eggs and quarter pound sugar. Put custard in pitcher and pour 
slowly in the mold, letting part of custard entirely absorb before 
adding the rest, and some let stand an hour or so before steaming ; 
])lace mold in steamer or in saucepan two-thirds full of water and 
steam till firm, about an hour and a half. To test, run a fork or 
small knife down through thickest part, if any liquid appears must 
cook longer. When done, turn out of mold, and serve with powdered 
sugar. Lady Fingers may be used to line the mold, placing them 
around })eri)('n(licularly with flat sides against the mold. To make 




PUDDINGS AXD SAUCES, 74"/ 



a jilainer pudding, use cup raisins, cup and a half currants and third 
of a cup citron instead of French fruits, and bread may also be used 
instead of cake. Serve with Lemon Sauce. 

Cake Pudding. — Put slices of stale cake in saucers and turn 
over them a hot Every-day Sauce, or any other preferred ; prepare 
long enough before wanted, to serve thoroughly cold. Or steam 
slices of stale fruit cake and serve with hot sauce. Or put slices of 
any stale cake in layers in pudding dish with stewed or preserved 
fruit between, with cake for top la3'er, pour sweetened cream over, 
cover with a meringue, brown with salamander, or in hot oven, and 
serve cold. Or partly fill a pudding dish with slices of stale cake, 
pour over half the Boiled Custard given on page 119, while hot, so 
that it will soak through and soften the cake, and set away to cool. 
Before serving spread a meringue over the top. Peach Pudding 
may be made same way, using canned peaches instead of cake. For 
a more elaborate pudding pour the custard over slices of cake laid 
in shallow dish and when cold put a layer in bottom of quart mold 
or two pint molds, have ready two ounces blanched and chopped 
almonds, or any other nuts "preferred and a half pint preserved 
fruit, drained ; put in a sprinkling of the chopped nuts, then bits of 
fruit, another layer of cake and so on till all ingredients are used, 
covering with cake. Pack in ice an hour, turn out of mold and serve.' 

• Carrot Pudding. — One pound grated carrots, three-fourths 
pound chopped suet, half pound each raisins and currants, four 
tablespoons sugar, eight of flour, and spices to taste. Or boil three- 
quarters pound carrots and mash to a pulp ; add half pound bread- 
crumbs, four ounces chopped suet, quarter pwund each stoned 
raisins and currants, six tablespoons sugar, three well-beaten eggs 
and siifficient milk to make a thick batter. Steam four hours, 
place in oven twenty minutes and serve with Jelly or Lemon Sauce! 

Cerealine Pudding. — Beat four eggs and six tablespoons sugar 
well, as for sponge cake. Add half a grated nutmeg, half teaspoon 
each lemon extract and baking powder, two ounces each cerealine 
and flour. Put in well-buttered mold and steam half an hour. Serve 
with Vinegar Sauce. 

Chocolate Piidding.—One quart sweet milk, three ounces grated 
chocolate, cup sugar, yolks of five eggs ; scald milk and chocolate 
together,Mdien cool add sugar and eggs, and bake. When done, spread 
beaten whites and five tablespoons sugar on top, and set in oven to 
brown. Or, boil one pint milk, add half cup each butter and sugar, 
and three ounces grated chocolate ; pour this over two slices of 
bread soaked in'water; when cool, add well-beaten yolks of four 
eggs, bake, and when done, spread over the whites' beaten with 
sugar, and brown in oven. Serve hot or cold. For a very rich pud- 
ding beat quarter pound each butter and sugar to a cream, add 



748 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



gradually yolks of eight eggs, one at a time, adding alternately 
quarter pound shelled and chopped almonds, not blanched, and 
quarter pound grated chocolate ; when all are well mixed add beaten 
whites of eggs, some ground cloves and cinnamon; butter and 
sprinkle molds with sugar, pour in pudding, steam, and when cold 
serve with Chocolate Sauce. Or With Fruit, line the bottom of a 
mold with sponge cake cut in slices about half an inch thick, first 
soaked in lemon and orange juice, half and half, or any fruit juice, 
cover with a layer of fruit using raisins, currants, preserved or can- 
died fruits, as liked, then cake, and so on till within an inch of top 
with fruit last. Leave half inch space between cake and sides of 
mold. Add slowly a cold Chocolate Custard, page 120, Avith half 
ounce gelatine dissolved, in place of corn-starch, using sufficient 
custard to fill the mold ; cover, bind and imbed in ice anxl salt, as 
directed in Ice-cream, for half a day ; take from mold and serve sur- 
rounded with Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Citron Pudding. — Sift two tablespoons flour and mix with 
beaten yolks of six eggs ; add gradually pint sweet cream, quarter 
pound citron cut in small strips, and two tablespoons sugar ; mix 
thoroughl}^ pour batter into buttered dish and bake twenty-five 
minutes. Serve with Egg or Queen Sauce. 

Cocoa-nut Pudding. — Pour one and one-half pints boiling milk 
over one pint bread-crumbs and one cup dessicated cocoa-nut mixed; 
add two tablespoons sugar and nutmeg to flavor and bake. Or grate 
one cocoa-nut, saving the milk if perfectly sweet, boil a quart of 
milk and pour upon it, adding five eggs beaten with cup sugar and 
tablespoon buttet, with a little salt, two teaspoons vanilla extract, 
milk from nut, and bake in pudding dish lined with rich paste. Or 
omit the paste and add quart bread-crumbs scalded with the milk, 
or as much cold boiled rice as cocoa-nut, though some use corn-starch 
instead of the crumbs or rice. Make with dessicated cocoa-nut in 
same way, using half pint. This is excellent baked like pie with 
under crust only. 

Corn-Starch, Pudding. — One pint sweet milk, whites of three 
eggs, two tablespoons corn-starch, three of sugar, and a little salt. 
Put milk in custard kettle, and when it reaches boiling point add 
sugar, then starch dissolved in a little cold milk, and lastly the 
whites of eggs whipped to a stiff" froth ; beat, and let cook a few min- 
utes, then pour into cups, filling about half full, and set in cool 
place. For sauce, make a boiled custard as follows : Bring to boil- 
ing point one pint milk, add three tablespoons sugar, then beaten 
yolks thinned by adding one tablespoon milk, stirring all the time 
till it thickens ; flavor with two teaspoons lemon or vanilla, and let 
^^^^S^^^r^?^ cool. Serve one mold for each person, pouring 
%^^^^^^^^% over it some of the boiled custard. Or the pud- 
"^^1 '^^tm^^^^ ing may be made in one large mold. To make a 
Corn-starch Pudding. Ckocolate PuddhiQ , flavoi thc above pudding 



PUDDINGS A'ND SAUCES. 741) 



with vanilla, remove two-thirds of it, and add half cake chocolate 
softened, mashed, and dissolved in a little milk. Put a layer of 
half the white pudding into the mold, then the chocolate, then the 
rest of the white ; or two layers of chocolate may be used with a 
white between ; or the center may be cocoa-nut made by adding half 
a cocoa-nut grated fine to the white part ; or add a pine-apple chop- 
ped fine; or a cup strawberries. Serve with Pi7ie- Apple Sauce. 
For Easter Pudding, make a corn-starch mixture as above, using 
yolks of eggs instead of whites, and turn out in broad dish to cool. 
When it stiffens around the edges, transfer it, a few spoonfuls at a 
time, to a bowl, and whip vigorously y^^^ 

Avith an egg beater. Flavor with rose- y^---"-?^ 

water. It should be like a yellow ^^^^^''^''^^"^^"''''^\m. 

sponge when put into a crown mold. ii^lteilf^^i^Jff^ 

INIake day before wanted. When read}^ x^sJ^iU^Ullilifl 
to serve turn out upon dish, fill center .^Hli^m^^^^^^HS^ 

With whipped cream, navored witli va- "=^^^ ^ -v -;^^ 

nilla and heaped up as high as it will "'"' '"^^^^t Pn&ixu^?'^''^^^^^' 

stand. Pile more whipped cream about the base. Or With Fruit, 
Avhile the corn-starch mixture is still hot put a little in a large mold 
jnid turn to let it run and leave a thin coating all over inside. Orna- 
ment by sticking candied cherries to this in any regular forms liked, 
fill loosely with fresh or preserved fruits, macaroons and crumbed 
sponge cake, soaked in orange juice, and a little citron cut very 
thin ; then pour in slowly until full remainder of corn-starch, which 
must have been kept warm by standing in hot water so that it would 
not stiffen. Let stand in cold place all night to become very firm 
and serve with Marigold Sauce. 




Cottage Pudding. — Cup each sugar and sweet milk, three oi 
flour, half cup butter, one egg, teaspoon soda dissolved in milk, two 
~ teaspoons cream tartar in flour, half teaspoon extract 

lemon. Sprinkle a little sugar over top just before put- 
ting in oven ; bake in fluted cake pan or small bread 
pan, and serve with Every-day Sauce. What is left of the pudding 
and sauce may be served cold for tea. 

Cracked- Wheat Pudding. — Cook cracked wheat enough for two 
meals ; stir in, a few minutes before taking up, raisins, dates, or any 
dried fruit ; serve half for dessert and next day prepare a Boiled 
Custard, stir it thoroughly through the remainder and bake just 
long enough to cook the custard. 

Cream Pudding. — Stir together pint cream,. six tablespoons 
sugar, yolks of three eggs, and a little grated nutmeg ; add the well- 
beaten whites, stirring lightly, and pour into buttered pie pan on 
Avhich has been sprinkled the crumbs of stale bread to thickness of 
an ordinary crust ; sprinkle over the top a layer of bread-crumbs and 



750 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

bake. For Perfection Cream Puddhifi^ sift one tumbler flour three 
times add two tablespoons baking powder and sift again. Sift the 
sugar and measure it, taking one and a half tumblers. Beat white 
of eleven eggs to a stiff froth ; add sugar lightly, then flour. Bake 
in two jelly pans ; when cold, whip one pint thick sweet cream, 
sweeten, and flavor with vanilla ; put between the layers, heap well 
upon the top and serve surrounded with whipped cream. This 
makes a nice Cream Cake by not surrounding with cream. 

Curate's Pudding. — Beat yolks of two eggs with four table- 
spoons flour and tablespoon milk ; set half pint milk, less the table- 
spoon, over the fire with four tablespoons sugar and two tablespoons 
butter ; heat, but do not boil, and add to the beaten flour and eggs, 
also the whites of eggs beaten very light. Mix thoroughly and pour 
into four saucers, buttered and heated. Bake twenty minutes in 
hot oven, and when done a light brown place two of them on a dish, 
tops down, spread with plum or other jam, place the other two on tojD 
with the under side down and serve at once. Or each may be split and 
spread with jam, then put together again. 

Delmonico Pudding. — A quart milk, three tablespoons corn- 
starch dissolved in cold milk, well-beaten yolks of five eggs, six 
tablespoons sugar. Boil three or four minutes, pour in pudding 
dish and bake about half an hour ; cover with a meringue and brown 
delicately in oven. For Peach Pudding, place a layer of canned 
peaches over top of above, when baked, adding syrup to custard 
when making, using less milk. Cover with the meringue as above. 

Dixie Pudding. — Slice light bread, trim off crusts and cut in 
pieces about two inches square ; remove seeds from greengage 
plums, make very sweet and place on the bread squares. Just be- 
fore serving, place squares in a dessert dish and cover each with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. A very showy, 
excellent dish and when sponge cake squares are used in place of 
bread, very elegant and delicious. 

Estelle Pudding. — Three eggs, well beaten, two and a half 
tablespoons sugar, two of butter, three-fourths cup sweet milk, one 
of raisins chopped fine, one full teaspoon baking powder and three 
gills flour; steam thirty-five minutes, browning in oven if wished, 
and serve with Cold Cream Sauce. 

Fig Pudding. — Half pound figs, half pint dry bread-crumbs, 
five tablespoons powdered sugar, three tablespoons butter, two eggs, 
cup milk ; chop figs fine and mix with butter, and by degrees add 
the other ingredients ; butter and sprinkle a mold with bread- 
crumbs, pour in pudding, cover closely, and boil three hours ; serve 
with Lemon Sauce. A gill chopped suet may be used instead of 
butter. Make a Date Pudding same, using chopped dates instead 
of figs. Either may be steamed or baked. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 751 

Fruit Pudding. — Stew currants or any small fruits, fresh or 
dried, with sugar to taste, and pour hot over thin slices of haker's 
bread with crust cut off, making alternate layers of fruit and bread, 
and leaving a thick layer of fruit for the last. Put a plate on top, 
and when cool set on ice ; serve with sifted sugar, or cream and 
sugar. This pudding is delicious made with Boston or milk crack- 
ers, split open, and stewed apricots or peaches, with plenty of juice, 
arranged as above. Or another way is to toast and butter slices of 
bread, pour over it hot stewed fruit in alternate layers, and serve 
warm with Caramel Sauce. Or drop small light dumplings into tliu 
hot stewed fruit and cook until dumplings are done, taking care nut 
to scorch. Serve Avith sugar and cream. For a, Dried Apple Pad- 
ding, take one cup each dried apples and molasses, one and one- 
fourth cups flour, fourth cup butter, one egg, teaspoon each soda and 
cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves; wash and soak apples over night, 
cut fine and mix with water in which they were soaked, add molas- 
ses and spice ; mix egg, butter and flour together ; stir soda with 
apples and molasses ; add and bake immediately ; serve hot with 
Hard Sauce. Or, soak two cups dried apples overnight. In morn- 
ing chop fine and boil with cup cooking molasses until like citron. 
Then add coffee cup sugar, cup butter, four eggs, teaspoon each of 
all kinds of spices, four cui>s flour, cup sour milk, and teaspoon 
soda. Bake in cake tins, and serve with sauce. When cold, it can 
be steamed and is as nice as when freshly made. For a Steamed 
Cherry Pudding make a good baking-powder paste, roll out and 
line bottom of baking dish ; then put in a la3'er of fresh, stoned cher- 
ries, or of the stewed dried fruit, cover with another layer of paste, 
then cherries, and paste on top. Steam two hours and serve with 
Dip or Hard Sauce. Any fruit may be used. A Dried Peach Pud- 
ding is made as follows : Chop pint dried peaches and three- 
fourths pint beef suet and mix with three-fourths pound flour and 
teaspoon salt ; add water to make dough that can be easily stirred 
with a spoon, tie in a cloth, leaving room to swell and steam or boil 
three or four hours. Serve with Jelly Sauce. For Fruit Blanc- 
mange, take pure juice if the fruit is fresh or canned ; if preserved 
or jellied, or any fruit .shrub, reduce with water to a pleasant flavor. 
Sweeten the fresh juice and the others if needed; to a pint of this 
when boiling add two rounded tablespoons corn-starch, mixed 
smoothly in a little cold water. Boil a minute or two, stirring all the 
time, and pour in dish to cool, making a jelly, not quite so firm as 
blanc-mange. When cold cover with whipped cream ; some first 
stick the top thickly with lengthwise slices of blanched almonds, 
and the whipped cream may be omitted, serving with sweetened 
cream. This is a delicious dessert very easily made, and so little 
juice is necessary. It can be cooled in any dish, then placed in a 
glass or china fruit dish to serve. Rice flour may be used instead 
of corn-starch and some first boil a little stick cinnamon and lemon 
peel in the juice. 



752 PUDDINC4S AND SAUCES. 



Gingerbread Pudding. — Crumble a half pound stale ginger- 
bread into bowl and mix with half pound flour and stir in one table- 
spoon each molasses and sugar, two ounces blanched and pounded 
almonds ; mix half pint milk and a well-beaten egg together and 
add ; mix thoroughly, put in buttered dish and boil or steam two 
hours and a half. 

Graham Pudding. — Mix together half cup molasses, quarter 
cup butter, one well-beaten egg, half cup milk, half teaspoon soda, 
two cups Graham flour, one cujo raisins, and spices to taste. Steam 
three hours. A half cup dried currants or sliced citron may be 
added, with half cup more milk, using either sweet or sour, and part 
cream makes it much nicer ; flour the fruit and add last. Or use 
gill sugar instead of molasses, melting it up in a little boiling water 
if wished, and sweet cream or milk with baking powder. Serve with 
Foaming Sauce. 

Half -hour Pudding. — Beat four tablespoons butter to a cream 
with half pint powdered sugar ; add 3'olks of three eggs, beating 
them in thoroughly, then rounded half-pint corn meal, and whites 
of eggs beaten to stiff froth. Mix Avell, and bake in buttered pud- 
ding dish. Serve with Orange Sauce. 

Indian Pudding. — A quart sweet milk, tablespoon butter, four 
well-beaten eggs, cup corn meal, half pound raisins, quarter pound 
sugar ; scald milk and stir in meal while boiling ; let stand until 
blood warm, add other ingredients and stir all well together ; bake 
one and a half hours, and serve with Vinegar Sauce. Or for Egg- 
less Indian Pudding., scald quart sweet milk and stir into it five 
rounded tablespoons corn meal, cup brown sugar or five tablespoons 
molasses, teaspoon ginger, and a little salt; bake in moderate oven 
and in half an hour stir in cup cold rich milk ; bake two hours. 
Much improved by adding cup raisins with the cold milk. Serve 
with cream or Plain Sauce. Or when mush is left over take one 
quart cold mush, add three heaping tablespoons sugar, cinnamon 
and nutmeg to taste, three well-beaten eggs, pint rich, sweet milk ; 
mix all well together and bake slowly one hour in well-buttered pud- 
ding dish. Eat with sweet cream or Lemon Sauce. For an Indian 
Fruit Pudding make a mush in custard kettle of three cups milk 
or water and cup yellow corn meal cooking an hour or two ; or three 
cups cold mush will do. Add cup finely-chopped suet, half cup 
baking molasses, tAVO well-beaten eggs, a little salt, half teaspoon 
ginger, cinnamon or grated lemon rind, and a cup each seedless 
raisins, and currants dredged with flour. Bake in buttered dish or 
mold one hour, covered with buttered paper. Makes a quart pud- 
ding. For a Plain Boiled Pudding, scald pint and a half corn 
meal with half pint boiling water; add four tablespoons Graham 
flour, pint milk (either sweet or sour), tAvo tablespoons molasses, 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 753 



half a teaspoon ginger, a little salt and one level teaspoon soda (or 
a little more if sour milk is used) ; two tablespoons chopped suet 
will make it more light and tender, but may be omitted. Put in 
buttered dish and steam three or four hours ; or boil in floured 
cloth, leaving room to swell. Or warm pint each molasses and 
milk, stir well together, and add gradually four well-beaten eggs, 
a pound beef suet chopped fine, corn meal sufficient to make a 
thick batter, teaspoon pulverized cinnamon, nutmeg and a little 
grated lemon peel, and, stir altogether thoroughly ; boil as above 
three hours; serve hot with Every-day Sauce. For Steamed Pud- 
dmg, take a quart milk, dissolve cup meal in a little of it and stir 
into remainder when latter boils, cooking slowly one hour ; then add 
three or four well-beaten eggs, teaspoon powdered cinnamon, half 
cup stoned raisins, teaspoon baking powder, a little salt, and beat 
well together. Butter tin mold, cover tightly and steam from two 
to three hours. It is a delicious pudding served with Jelly Sauce. 

Kiss Pudding. — Boil quart sweet milk in custard kettle, stir into 
it four heaping tables})Oons sugar and three rounded tablespoons corn 
starch, dissolved in a little cold water or milk, and added to well- 
beaten and strained yolks of four eggs. Turn into buttered mold 
which has been sprinkled Avith tablespoon sugar. Beat whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth with cup pulverized sugar and teaspoon vanilla; 
spread on top of pudding, set in quick oven, and brown ; take out, 
sprinkle with grated cocoa-nut, set away in cool place and serve 
cold after three or four hours. The sweet liquor which settles to 
bottom in cooling, serves as a sauce. 

Lemon Pudding. — Stir into yolks of six eggs one cup sugar, 
half cup water, and the grated yellow rind and juice of two lemons ; 
soften in warm water six crackers or some slices of cake, lay in bot- 
tom of baking dish, pour custard over them and bake till firm ; beat 
whites of eggs to a froth, add six tablespoons sugar, and beat well ; 
when custard is done, put a meringue over it, return to oven and 
brown. Serve either warm or cold. Some add two ounces Ijlanched 
and pounded almonds and bake in a puff paste, omitting the cake, 
and if a very rich pudding is wanted use half cup cream instead of 
water. Or for a PiUshurg Pudding, iixke juice and grated rind of 
one lemon, cup sugar, yolks of two eggs, three well rounded table- 
spoons flour, pinch of salt, pint rich"^milk; mix flour and part of 
milk to a smooth paste, add the juice and rind of lemon, cup sugar, 
well-beaten yolks and rest of milk (after having rinsed out the bowl 
in which eggs were beaten with it) ; line plate with Puff Paste one- 
fourth inch thick, pour in custard and bake in quick oven until 
done. Beat whites to stiff froth, add two tablespoons sugar, spread 
over top, return to oven and brown. Serve with very cold cream • 
or, for a very nice dish, use Whipped Cream Sauce. A rich and not 
an expensive pudding. The recipe makes sufficient for six. For a 



754 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

Boiled Lemon Pudding mix half pound chopped suet with three- 
quarters pound bread-crumbs, two cups sugar, quarter pound flour, 
and strained juice and grated rind of two small lemons ; when well 
mixed stir in two well-beaten eggs and milk to make a thick batter. 
Put in well-buttered mold and boil three and a half hours. Turn 
out, strew sugar over and serve hot with Jelly Sauce. 

Macaroni Padding. — Simmer two and a half ounces macaroni 
in a pint milk with rind of half a lemon till tender, and put in but- 
tered pudding dish, removing the rind ; mix three well-beaten eggs 
with another pint milk, sweetened to taste, and pour over the 
macaroni ; grate a little nutmeg over the top and bake in moderate 
oven half an hour. A la3"er of marmalade or other preserves may 
be placed on top before serving. Or simmer a quarter pound maca- 
roni in pint water with lemon rind till tender, then skim out the 
macaroni, without the rind, and add it to mixture of a pint milk, six 
well-beaten eggs, half pound each white sugar, and seedless raisins 
and half ounce allspice. Bake in buttered dish with a paste over 
the top and serve with Wolverine Sauce. 

Minute Pudding. — Take sweet milk, or half each water and milk, 
pinch of salt, let boil, stir in wheat Hour, as in making corn meal 
mush, till same thickness as latter ; remove from fire, and serve at 
once with Dip Sauce. Some think it im])roved by adding blackber- 
ries, raspberries or cherries, either canned or fresh, just before tak- 
ing from stove. 

Molasses Pudding. — Three cups flour, one each molasses, 
melted butter and hot water, one teaspoon soda ; steam three hours. 
Some add teacup raisins. Serve with Every-day Sauce. 

Oatmeal Pudding. — Mix quart milk with pint oatmeal, half 
pound suet chopped fine, quarter pound each stoned raisins and cur- 
rants ; steam in buttered dish three hours. Serve with Fruit Sauce. 

One-tim-tliree-four Pudding. — Cap butter, two of sugar, three 
of flour, four eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, cup sweet 
milk, and two teaspoons baking powder ; flavor with nutmeg, and 
bake in pudding or cake mold ; leave in mold till next day, when 
steam three-quarters of an hour and serve with Cider Sauce. This 
is nice baked as a cake. 

Orange Pudding. — Slice six oranges in a pudding dish, sprinkle 
with sugar, and stand two hours ; pour a pint hot water over two 
tal)lespoons corn-starch, previousl}'' dissolved in cold water, and let 
cook a moment or two till as thick as starch , remove from fire, 
sweeten, add a little grated lemon and pour over the oranges, cover 
Avith a meringue and brown in oven. Serve with Whijiped Cream 
Sauce. Any berries or peaches may be used instead of the oranges. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 755 



Or, make a plain corn-starch pudding without sugar, and pour it 
over the oranges and sugar. Serve cold. Or take the grated rind 
of two, and soft pulp of three oranges, cup each sugar and milk, four 
eggs, two Boston crackers, or four and a half tablespoons rolled and 
sifted crackers, and tablespoon butter. Cream butter, stir in grated 
rind, juice and sugar, well-beaten eggs and crackers; add milk, mix 
well, and bake in pudding dish hned with paste, or in a buttered 
mold. Or boil four oranges and chop fine, taking out seeds and put 
in saucepan with six tablespoons butter, twelve blanched and chop- 
ped almonds, half pound sugar and juice of a lemon ; heat until the 
butter is thoroughly melted, then cool and add eight well-beaten 
eggs ; put in buttered pudding dish with border of puff paste and 
bake from half to three-quarters of an hour; serve with Golden 
Sauce. Or hue a pudding dish with slices of stale sponge cake, 
slice in six oranges, removing seeds, pour a Boiled Custard made of 
yolks of eggs over, cover with meringue made with the whites, brown 
with salamander or in hot oven and serve cold. 

Paris Pudding— Ti^ke one pound flour and Avith a quarter of 
it make a sponge with a half ounce compressed yeast and a little 
warm Avater, and set to rise ; make a hole in the rest of flour, add 
ten tablespoons butter, three eggs, dessertspoon sugar and a little 
salt, unless the butter salts it enough. Beat all together well, then 
add five more eggs, one at a time, beating each in well. When the 
paste leaves the bowl it is beaten enough, but not before; then add 
sponge, and a large half ounce each currants and chopped citron, 
and an ounce and a half sultana raisins, seedless. Put in large, 
deep, upright mold, such as a charlotte-russe mold, let rise to twice 
its size and bake in moderate oven. This will keep fresh several 
days, and if it gets stale makes delicious fritters soaked in fruit 
juice' and dipped in fritter batter. To make the small round cakes, 
bake in small-sized, round charlotte-russe molds, filled only half full, 
as they rise very much ; bake these in hot oven, try as any other 
cake, then prepare a syrup as follows : Boil half pound sugar in 
pint water, add to this' a third of a pint orange and lemon juice, 
half and half, half pint apricot or peach pulp and boil all together a 
few moments ; pour this half an inch deep in a dish, and stand the 
cake or cakes in it ; it should take up all the syrup, some may also 
be sprinkled over it. 

Pie-plant Pudding.— VqqI, wash and slice four dozen stalks, 
cut in pieces an inch long, and stewuntil soft, with sugar to_ sweeten. 
Mash through sieve, add rind of one fresh lemon, grated ; little nut- 
meg, two tablespoons butter, yolks of six egg and whites of two, 
mix all together, line dish with puff paste, fill with the mixture and 
bake half an hour and serve with Cold Cream Sauce. Or prepare 
pie-plant as above and add a pint of rich cream ; dissolve half an 
ounce of gelatine in a little milk, stir it through the pie-plant and 



756 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



pour into a wet mold. Set in ice several hours before it is wanted 
and serve with cream. The pie-plant and gelatine must be mixed 
Avhile hot. Or cut up pie-plant as above, then make as Brown Betty, 
allowing pound sugar to each pound pie-plant. 

Pine-opple Fudding. — Butter a pudding dish, and line bottom 
and sides with slices of stale cake (sponge cake is best), pare and 
slice thin a large pine-apple; place in tlie dish first a layer of pine- 
apple, then strew with sugar, then more pine-apple, and so on until 
all is used, cover with slices of cake and pour a cup water or Boiled 
Custard over slowly. Cover the whole with a buttered plate, and 
bake slowly two hours. Or beat four tablespoons flour with pint 
cream ; boil till thick, stirring all the time ; when cool, beat yolks of 
six eggs with two tablespoons butter and two of sugar ; have ready 
whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, stir them in lightly, and 
last add two tablespoons fresh or canned pine-apple, cut into small 
squares ; bake in pudding dish. For another nice pudding, peel 
and grate a large pine-apple, or use a can of the fruit ; weigh after 
grating, and allow an equal weight sugar and half as much butter ; 
mix the butter and sugar to a cream, beat in yolks of five eggs, and 
add the grated pine-apple and half a pint of cream ; beat whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, mix lightly with the other ingredients, and put 
mixture in dish lined with puff paste and bake in a moderate oven 
until the pastr\' is done. Serve an}^ of above with Pine-apple Sauce. 

English Plum Pudding. — When making this popular dessert 
it is well to prepare the fruit the night before, as so much time is 
required for cooking. It should be made at least two or three days 
before wanted, and is all the better for being kept a month or two, 
put away as directed for Fruit Cake, page 64. When to be served it 
has only to be thoroughly reheated by steaming — do not boil again, 
as the fruit absorbs the moisture and the Avhole becomes insipid. 
For preparing the fruit see directions on page 65. All the dry in- 
gredients should be well mixed together, then moistened with the 
egg, which must be well beaten, and 
other ingredients added. Some still 
adhere to the old way of shaping the 
dough into a round ball and boiling in 
a floured cloth, as directed in preface ; 
others boil in a buttered mold or bowl, 
with a floured cloth tied over, but the 
better way is to steam in buttered mold 
or pan. Boil, or steam from three to 
six hours, according to richness and 
size of pudding. It is a good plan to 
divide the pudding mixture in half and ^'"^ Padding. 

cook at the same time, using one half and putting the other away 
for future use. When steaming do not remove cover, and when 




PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 757 



necessary to add more water follow directions in preface. When 
done place in oven for a few moments ; then put away as directed, 
resteaming when wanted. To serve, turn out on platter and garnish 
with holly leaves and berries as illustrated sending on with it any 
sauce liked. An English way of serving is to break pieces of 
the pudding into inch bits — do not cut it — before reheating 
and turn the sauce over before sending to table, serving in 
individual saucers. This makes it much more delicious, but 
spoils the appearance of the dish. To serve a pudding from 
which a part has been cut, divide it in two pieces, four inches 
long and an inch wide, place in buttered mold, pour a boiled cus- 
tard over, steam an hour or two, turn out on platter and send to 
table with a Boiled Custard round it. Several of the best recipes for 
making the pudding follow : One pound each butter, suet and brown 
sugar, two and one-half pounds flour, two. pounds each raisins and 
currants, quarter pound citron, twelve eggs, whites and yolks beaten 
separately, one pint milk, one cup brandy, or half cvip each orange and 
lemon juice, or use any fruit juice ; half ounce each cloves and mace, 
two nutmegs, grated. Mix as directed above. One-half of this re- 
cipe makes a large pudding and should be steamed three hours ; if 
whole recipe is used steam six hours. Dried cherries, used instead 
of currants, make a much more delicious pudding and pound blanched 
and chopped almonds may be added. Serve with Cream Sauce. 
Or take one and a half pound muscatel raisins, one and one- 
fourth pound currants, pound sultana raisins, two pounds best 
coffee sugar, two quarts bread-crumbs, sixteen eggs, two pounds 
finely chopped suet, six ounces mixed candied peel, rind of two lem- 
ons, an ounce each grated nutmeg and powdered cinnamon, half 
dozen pounded bitter almonds, and gill fruit juice. Half bread- 
crumbs and half flour may be used, and some add teaspoon ginger. 
Prepare and mix ingredients as directed above, and boil or steam 
from six to eight hours. For a small family boil in two or three 
molds. A few sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, ornament 
the pudding prettily. Or With Apples.^ take quart seeded raisins, 
pint currants, half pint citron cut up, quart apples peeled and chop- 
ped quart fresh and nicely chopped beef suet, quart sweet milk, 
heaping quart stale bread-crumbs, eight eggs beaten separately, pint 
sugar, grated nutmeg, teaspoon salt ; flour fruit thoroughly from a 
quart flour, then mix remainder as follows : In a large bowl or tray 
put the eggs with sugar, nutmeg and milk, stir in the fruit, bread- 
crumbs and suet, one after the other until all are used, adding 
enough flour to make the fruit stick together, which will take about 
all the quart ; steam as directed. If not liked so rich less eggs and 
fruit may be used, and if fruits mentioned are not at hand others 
may be substituted. Serve with Cape May Sauce. For an £^gg- 
less Plum Pudding^ take heaping cup bread-crumbs, two of 
flour, one each suet chopped fine, raisins, molasses and sweet 



758 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



milk, tablespoon soda, teaspoon each salt, cloves and cinna- 
mon and a nutmeg, graied; boil two and a half hours in 
two quart pail, set in kettle of boiling water, or steam for same 
time. Or take half pound flour, six ounces each raisins and cur- 
rants, quarter pound each suet, brown sugar, mashed carrot, and 
mashed potatoes, tablespoon molasses, one ounce each candied 
lemon peel and citron. Mix flour, currants, suet and sugar well to- 
gether ; stir in the mashed carrot and potato and add the molasses and 
lemon peel ; p^it no liquid in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie 
loosely in a cloth, or if put in basin do not quite fill it, as the pud- 
ding should have room to swell, and boil four hours. Serve with 
Orange Sauce. This pudding is better for being mixed overnight. 
For Prairie Plum Piidding, stew together a cup raisins and 
half cup citron ; put in buttered dish layer of sponge cake (any kind 
of cake will do, or Boston crackers, sliced and buttered may be 
used, or Graham bread-crumbs), then a layer of fruit, and so on, 
with cake or bread for last layer ; pour over it custard made in pro- 
portion of a quart milk, yolks of four eggs, and half cup sugar ; bake 
until on inserting a knife the milk has become water. Cover with 
meringue, brown in oven and serve with Prairie Sauce. For a Gel- 
atine Plum Pudding, beat together half cup sugar, two eggs and 
teaspoon butter, add three pints sweet milk, a little salt, six crack- 
ers rolled fine, cup raisins, and a half box gelatine dissolved in lit- 
tle water ; season with nutmeg or cinnamon. Bake in pudding dish 
and serve with Cocoa-nut Hard Sauce. 

Potato Pudding. — Boil six good mealy potatoes, mash very 
fine, beat well with the yolks of five eggs, half pound white sugar, 
quarter pound butter ; beat whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon, stir well, and add a little salt 
and pint rich milk or cream ; bake an hour and a half; reserve some 
of the whites of eggs for a meringue for the top. A few blanched 
and pounded almonds may be added. If not liked so rich, use less 
eggs and butter. Sweet-potato Pudding made in same way. 

Prune Pudding. — Scald one pound French prunes, let them 
swell in the hot water till soft, drain and extract stones, spread on 
dish and dredge with flour; take a half pint milk and stir into it 
gradually eight tablespoons sifted flour, beat six eggs very light and 
stir by degrees into a pint and a half milk, add the batter, then the 
prunes, one at a time ; stir the whole very hard, steam two hours, 
and serve with Prune Sauce or cream. Or put a layer of sliced 
bread or biscuit, first dipped in boiling sweet milk, in baking dish, 
then a layer of prunes stewed as for eating, seeding the prunes ; 
then bread and so on till dish is full with bread on top, having 
sprinkled each layer with a little sugar; pour over the prune juice 
and remainder of scalded milk. To made it richer, bits of butter 
may be added to each layer; bake in moderate oven from three 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 759 

quarters of an hour to an hour. When cold turn out in a dish and 
spread whipped cream on top, or it may be served hot with sauce 
or spoonful whipped cream to each dish. A very nice pudding, 
wholesome and inexpensive. 

Puif' Pudding. — Cream third of a pint butter, gradually dredge 
in two-thirds pint flour, scant half pint sugar, and keep stirring 
and beating without ceasing until perfectly smooth. Then add 
well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and lemon or vanilla flavoring ; 
butter small cups, half fill them, having just stirred gently in the 
well-frothed whites, and bake in brisk oven for about half an hour. 
Turn out on a hot plate and serve with Custard, Jelly or Lemon 
Sauce. A pretty little dish may be made of these puddings when 
cold, by cutting out a portion of tlie inside with the point of a knife, 
and putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate pre- 
serve, such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The 
paste requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is beaten the 
better the pudding Avill be. Six eggs may be used and the puffs 
may be steamed. For a Saratoga Puff Pudding, to one piiit Ijoil- 
ing water add half pint butter,stir in gradually one pint flour till per- 
fectlv smooth ; take off fire, A^hen cool add five well-beaten eggs 
and half teaspoon soda. Pour batter in a well-buttered, hot pud- 
ding dish and bake in a quick oven about half an hour or till done ; 
make an opening at edge and pour in whipped cream as above or a 
Boiled Custard, and serve at once. Something plainer but nice is 
the Quick Puif Pudding. Stir together pint each flour and milk, 
two teaspoons baking powder, and a little salt ; place well-greased 
cups in steamer, put in each a spoonful of batter, then one of ber- 
ries, steamed apples, or any sauce convenient, cover with another 
spoonful of batter and steam twenty minutes. This pudding is de- 
licious made with cranberries or fresh strawberries and can be 
steamed in a large dish putting together as above. Adding cu]) 
sugar and an egg makes the pudding much nicer. Serve with Straw- 
berry Sauce. For Raisin P^iffs, take two eggs, half cup butter, 
three teaspoons baking powder, two tablespoons sugar, two cups 
flour, one of milk, and one of raisins chopped very fine. Steam half 
an hour in buttered cups. Serve with Cream Sauce. 

Q^ieen Mah Pudding — Put rind of lemon, eight bitter almonds, 
blanched and bruised, or a cut vanilla bean, into pint milk, heat 
slowly and keep at boiling point, until milk is strongly flavored ; 
then add a small pinch of salt, and an ounce gelatine. 'When this 
is dissolved, strain the milk through muslin, and put it in clean 
saucepan, Avith half cup sugar and half pint rich cream ; boil up 
once, take from fire, stir it briskly and add by degrees well-beaten 
yolks of six eggs ; set over a gentle fire until mixture thickens, 
but be careful it does not curdle. When of the right consistencv, 
pour it out, and continue stirring until half cold ; then mix Avith it 
one ounce candied citron, cut in small pieces, and two ounces dried 



760 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



cherries ; put in buttered mold and serve cold. Preserved pine-ap- 
ple may be used instead of the cherries, or mixed with them. This 
pudding is delicious iced. 

Raisin Pudding. — Line bottom of a buttered pudding dish, 
but not the sides, Avith a Puff or Plain Paste, then add a 
layer chopped sour apples, two inches thick ; then one of chopped 
raisins, sprinkle over sugar and dot with bits of butter, and any 
spice liked; add another layer of crust, fruit, etc., until dish is full ; 
cover with crust and bake slowly an hour and a half; when done, 
invert on plate, sprinkle fine sugar over and serve with Sago Sauce. 

Raspherry Pudding. — Cream half pint sugar with three table- 
spoons l)utter, add half pint sweet milk, pint flour, two teaspoons bak- 
ing-powder and tw^o-thirds of a pint floured ripe raspberries. Bake in 
a buttered dish and serve with Golden Sauce. Blueberry or any 
Berry Pudding made same. 

Rice Pudding. — To a cup rice, boiled in custard kettle in pint 
salted water until dry, add pint milk in which a little corn-starch has 
been dissolved and boil again ; add yolks of two eggs beaten with 
half cup of sugar, stir well together, and lastly add juice and grated 
rind of one lemon. Place in dish, and bake in moderate oven about 
one hour ; when done, cover top with a meringue and brown in 
oven. If more of a custard is liked omit the corn-starch and use a 
little more milk. A cup of raisins maybe added just befoi'e baking, 
or a little candied lemon peel if liked. If wanted to turn out of 
mold use five or six eggs. Nice baked in small buttered cups lined 
Avith candied lemon peel. Turn out and serve with Apricot Sauce. 
Or, after boiling rice Avith milk, eggs and sugar, add table- 
spoon butter and place in a buttered pudding dish, sprinkled 
with bread-crumbs, and bake. If Avanted richer add four tablespoons 
butter. Or With Fruit., nlace a layer of mixture on the crumbs, 
then a layer of peaches, (fresh, canned or dried), and so on till dish 
is full AA'ith rice last ; bake and coA^er with meringue as above. Or, 
use chopped pine-apple or oranges, dried cherries or any fruit jam ; 
the fruit may also be stirred through the rice, then baked. When 
pine-apple or oranges are used they may first be cooked ten minutes 
in a little sugar and Avater. Some line the dish Avith Puff Paste, 
then fill as above. Serve with Saratoga Sauce. For Boiled Rice 
Pudding^ wash a half pound rice and tie in a cloth, alloAving room 
to swell, and put in saucepan cold water. Boil an hour, then take 
out, untie, and stir in a pint any fresh fruit, or half pound raisins 
or currants, tie up again rather tightly and boil another hour. If 
made Avith dried fruit serve Avith Sago Sauce, or cream and sugar if 
fruit is fresh. Nice for children's dessert. For Econotnical Pud- 
ding.^ take quart milk, half cup rice, salt to taste, cup sugar and 
!teaspoon lemon or vanilla, (some add tablespoon butter) ; place in 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 761 

oven at once, stirring occasionally while rice is swelling. Bake 
quite slowly two hours or more. It should be cream-like when 
done, and must be taken immediately from oven. A good test is to 
tip dish ; if rice and milk move together it is done ; if not sufficiently 
cooked the milk will run ; if neither move it is done too much. Be- 
fore serving grate nutmeg over top or sprinkle with powdered cin- 
namon. To vary this, a cup raisins may be added, or ten minutes 
before done stir in a well-beaten egg. This is a delicious pudding 
when properly baked, and may be eaten warm or cold with sugar 
and cream. Or for Buttered Rice, cook in custard kettle two-thirds 
cup rice with pint and a half milk ; when tender, in about three- 
quarters of an hour, pour off milk, stir in two tablespoons butter, 
sugar to taste, a little grated nutmeg or powdered cinnamon ; when 
hot, serve with Fruit Sauce. For Rice Snow B alls, hoil quarter pound 
rice in pint cold water with teaspoon salt, keeping covered, till holes 
come in top and water seems nearly all boiled away,taking care it does 
not scorch ; tlTen add pint milk and boil moderately, stirring occasion- 
ally, until so thick the rice does not settle and there is a creamy 
substance round every grain, being careful not to break the grains. 
Take off, stir thoroughly, but gently, put into wet cups and set on 
ice. Improved by boiling lemon peel and stick cinnamon with it, 
taking them out before putting in mold ; or when done stir in any 
flavoring liked. When milk is added some stir in cup stoned 
raisins. Serve either hot or cold on a platter with a Boiled Custard 
poured round, and a teaspoon jelly on top of each if liked. Or put 
into one or two large molds and serve with bits of jelly over. ^ A 
simple ])ut nice dessert. Or With Reaches boil double the quantity 
and when done, spread rice in a sheet half an inch thick on a large 
platter. Have ready a dozen large peaches peeled, halved and 
stoned ; put the halves together and cut the rice in pieces just large 
enough to wrap around them ; press into shape with hands, wet in 
cold water and wrap each ball in a cloth, tie to keep in shape and 
boil half an hour in plenty of boiling water. When done carefully 
remove the cloths without breaking the balls, and serve with any 
hot sauce. After boiling the rice as above, or using all water, some 
sweeten and flavor to taste, add beaten yolks of three eggs and stir 
over fire till mixture thickens, turn out on dish and mix in a little 
salad oil ; let cool in a sheet and cut into circles, or flatten pieces in 
palm of hand, put a stoned peach, plum, or spoonful of any pre- 
serves in center, shape into a ball, single-bread and fry in hot fat. 
Serve hot or cold with sauce. Or With Apples, boil seven table- 
spoons rice as above and let cool ; meantime pare, quarter and core 
eight good-sized apples and boil till tender in a syrup of a quarter 
pound sugar and half pint water, and drain on a sieve. Put a cup 
right side up in center of dish and pack the rice all around it, 
smoothing with back of a spoon to top of cup ; stick the apples into 
rice in rows, one row sloping to right and next to left. Set it in 



762 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



oven to brown ; when required for table, remove the cup, garnish 
the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle sufficient 
Boiled Custard to fill to top of rice, and serve hot. Or arrange apples 
cooked as above in a pyramid, with the boiled rice filling all spaces 
between, and garnish with green leaves. For Rice SouMe, boil 
half cup rice in salted water ten minutes, then drain and put in cus- 
tard kettle with pint milk, tablespoon butter and cup sugar ; boil 
half an hour or till rice is very soft, then beat to a smooth paste 
with wooden spoon, add Avell-beaten yolks of five eggs and zest and 
half the juice from a lemon. If the paste is too firm add a little 
cream. When cold stir in the well-frothed whites of eggs and put 
mixture in pudding dish, Paper Cases or Patty Shells, sprinkle with 
sugar and bake about ten minutes. Serve with Snow Sauce as soon 
as taken from oven or it Avill fall. Or make with rice flour, stirring 
a half cup smooth with a little cold milk, add remainder of milk and 
butter and stir over fire until it thickens ; then take off fire, add 
sugar and flavor, stir in beaten yolks and whipped wiiites, sprinkle 
with sugar and bake as above. 

Sago Pudding. — Put one and one-half pints milk and rind of a 
lem.on in saucepan and set on back of range until the milk is well 
flavored with the lemon ; then strain, mix with it three tablespoons 
sago and six of sugar, and simmer gently about fifteen minutes. Let 
cool a little and add four well-beaten eggs and tablespoon and a half 
butter. Line the edges of pudding dish with Puff Paste, pour in the 
pudding, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake about an hour. 
Or With Apples, pare and core six apples, and fill holes with cinna- 
mon and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to cup sugar ; take 
tablespoon sago to each apple, wash it thoroughly and let soak an 
hour in water enough to cover apples ; pour water ai:id sago over ap- 
ples, and bake an hour and a half. Or With Raisins, soak cup sago 
in pint water on. back of stove and after an hour place where it Avill 
simmer another hour ; stew cup raisins and quarter cup thinly-sliced 
citron in a little water an hour and a half and just before serving 
mix with the sago, adding grated rind and juice of a lemon, and 
juice of an orange, if wished. Serve with Sago Sauce. 

Snow Pudding. — Whip whites of six eggs and one-half poiind 
pulverized sugar to a stiff froth ; put in saucepan three pints cream 
and tliree-fourths cup sugar and set on stove till it comes to a boil, 
then draw to back of stove, flavor with teaspoon vanilla, and with 
two spoons shape the meringue into balls, and drop into the boiling 
cream ; let brown slightly on both sides, then put on a sieve to drain. 
Put in a pudding mold some fruit jelly — apple or any light colored 
jelly — about an inch deep, and set mold in pan of chopped ice. Add 
beaten yolks of eight eggs to the hot cream, and stir well while cook- 
ing ; when done put on ice till cold ; then put on the jelly in the mold 
a layer of the snowballs, cover with the cream, then another layer 



PUDDINOS AND SAUCES. 763 

of the balls and so on till mold is full. Set on ice till very cold and 
f^erve, turned out on platter, surrounded with Whipped Ci'eam Sauce. 

Suet Pudding. — One cup each molasses, sweet milk, finely- 
chopped suet, or half a cup melted butter, and raisins, half cup cur- 
rants, two and a half cups flour and half teaspoon soda ; mix well, 
salt and spice to taste, steam two hours and serve with Spice Sauce. 
Sour milk may be used instead of sweet, and some make the pud- 
ding without the fruit, adding an egg or two. Or eggs may be added 
with the fruit. Others use a cup each sugar and hot water, and two 
teaspoons baking powder, instead of the milk, molasses and soda. 
Some prefer half cup each molasses and sugar to all molasses, and 
add teaspoon oatmeal or corn meal. For Hunter'' s Pudding., take 
one pound each raisins, currants, suet and bread-crumbs, one-half 
pound sugar, eight eggs, tablespoon flour, one-fourth pound mixed 
candied peel, tablespoon each orange and lemon juice, ten drops 
essence of lemon and almonds, half a nutmeg, two blades of mace 
and six cloves. Stone and chop the raisins, chop the suet fine, and 
rub the bread until all lumps are well broken ; pound the spice to 
powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all well 
together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, and as 
they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and almonds ; 
stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well and add orange and lemon 
juice. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil six to eight hours. 
Serve with Custard or Currant Sauce. This will keep some time ; 
when wanted steam one hour and serve. Veal suet makes a 
more delicate pudding than beef. Or With Apples, add a pound 
chopped apples and a dozen pounded almonds instead of raisins, 
candied peel and cloves. For a Ginger Suet Pudding^ take half 
pound of flour, one-fourth pound each suet and moist sugar, two 
large teaspoons powdered ginger. Chop the suet very fine, mix it 
with the flour, sugar, and ginger; stir all Avell together; butter a 
basin, and put mixture in dry ; tie cloth over, and boil three hours 

Swiss Pudding. — Sift together two cups flour, heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder and small teaspoon salt ; then cream cup 
granulated sugar and two tablespoons cold butter ; mix all together, 
make a wall in the mixture and add one egg, teaspoon lemon ex- 
tract, and just enough sweet milk to make a soft batter like cake. 
Pour at once into mold 'prepared by rubbing with cold butter, dust- 
ing with flour, shaking and then turning out unnecessar}' flour. Boil 
or steam three-quarters of an hour, or till a broom splint can be run 
in it. Serve hot with Cream Sauce. 

Tapioca Pudding. — This popular and beautiful dessert is pre- 
pared in a variety of ways. For an Eggless Tapioca soak cup tap- 
ioca in cup cold water overnight. In the morning add three cups 
cold water and cook very slowly until transparent. Slice half a 



764 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



lemon ycry thin, boil in very little water till tender and add all to 
the tapioca with sugar to taste and slight pinch of salt. Put in long 
buttered tin, make a meringue of whipped whites three eggs and 
three tablespoons powdered sugar and sprgad over top, browning 
with salamander or in oven. Serve cold, cut in squares with sweet- 
ened cream. Or cool in a buttered mold or cups and serve with 
whipped cream. The lemon gives a fine flavor, and the thin slices 
in the transparent pudding have a pleasing effect. Another nice 
pudding is Apple Tapioca^ to a half cup tapioca, add one and one- 
half pints cold water ; let stand on fire till cooked clear, stirring to 
prevent burning ; remove, sweeten and flavor with nutmeg ; pour the 
tapioca into a deep dish in which have been placed six or eight 
pared and cored apples ; bake until apples are done and serve cold 
with cream. If not good cooking apples, first steam or bake them 
till tender. Some put bits of butter over them. Or the apples may 
be quartered or sliced and put in dish with the cooked tapioca in 
alternate layers ; bake and serve as above adding a meringue over 
top, if desired. Make Peach Tapioca after either recipes for Apple 
Tapioca, using either fresh or canned fruit. When the latter is used 
add the syrup to water in which tapioca is to be cooked. For Co- 
coa-nut Tapioca, soak three tablespoons tapioca in a little water 
overnight, drain in the morning and add a quart milk. Boil ten 
minutes and add beaten yolks of four eggs, cup sugar and three 
tablespoons grated cocoa-nut. Boil five minutes longer and pour in 
buttered pudding dish and bake. To the whipped whites of eggs 
add four tablespoons sugar, spread over the pudding when done and 
sprinkle with cocoa-nut. Brown lightly and eat warm or cold with 
Cocoa-nut Sauce. Make exactl}^ same, omitting cocoa-nut, for Cream 
Tapioca. Using half quantity milk and eggs makes a nice pudding. 

Yermicelli Pudding. — Boil four ounces vermicelli in one and a 
half pints milk, which has just been cooked with alittle lemon rind 
and stick cinnamon, till tender ; add cup sugar, four eggs, three 
tablespoons butter and flavor with vanilla. Line sides of a buttered 
pudding dish with Puff Paste, put in mixture and bake in oven for 
three-quarters of an hour. Or With Marmalade., cover the vermi- 
celli with boiled milk, let stand ten minutes, then add two table- 
spoons marmalade, half cup stoned raisins, three eggs and half cup 
sugar, or sweeten to taste. Stir well together, put in a buttered 
dish, boil or steam an hour and a half and serve with Custard Sauce. 

Grandma TJiompson'^s White Pudding. — Weigh equal quanti- 
ties best beef suet and sifted flour, shave suet and rub into fine par- 
ticles with the hands, removing all tough and stringy parts, mix well 
with the flour, season very highly with pepper, salt to taste, stuff" 
loosely in beef skins (entrails cleaned like pork skins for sausage), 
half a yard or less in length, secure ends, prick every two or three 
inches with a darning needle, place to boil in kettle of cold water 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 765 

hung on crane and boil three hours ; place on table until cold, after 
which hang up in cool place to dry ; tie in clean cotton bag, and put 
away where it will be hoth dry and cool. When wanted for use cut 
off quantity needed, boil in hot water until heated through, take out 
and place before the fire to dry off and "crisp". The above was con- 
sidered an "extra" dish at all the "flax scutchings," "quilting frol- 
ics,", and "log rollings" of a hundred years ago. The same by meas- 
ure is as follows ; One pint best beef suet to two pints flour ; mix 
thoroughly, season very highly with pepper and salt, sew up little 
sacks of cotton cloth half a yard long and three inches wide, fill 
nearly full, put to boil in hot water, boil from four to six hours ; 
when done, take out, drain, let cool, hang in a dry, cool place, and 
when wanted for table, cut off as much as needed, put in hot water, 
boil until cooked through, take out, peel off cloth, put in pie-pan 
and set in oven to brown. Some use half flour and half corn meal. 

Whortleberry Pudding. — Stir together quart berries, pint molas- 
ses, cup milk, teaspoon soda, pound and two ounces flour, teaspoon 
:.loves, one of cinnamon, and one nutmeg. Put in buttered mold 
with closely fitting cover and boil two and a half hours, or may be 
steamed in mold without a cover. Turn out and serve hot with 
Lemon Sauce. Or sift together two cups each flour and sugar, two 
teaspoons baking powder, and with a knife chop half cup butter 
through the mixture ; stir in quart of berries, dredged with flour, 
add three beaten eggs and halfi^)int milk ; put into buttered dish 
and bake half an hour in moderate oven. Serve hot with Arrow- 
root Sauce. Huckleberry and Blueberry Pudding made same. 

Roily Poly. — Make a nice crust as for rich baking-powder 
or soda biscuit, roll out in a long sheet half an inch thick and spread 
to within an inch and a half of • he edge with any kind of fresh, 
preserved, or dried and stewed fruit, or jelly, jam or marmalade; 
fold the edges over the fruit and roll it up, 
prick deeply with a fork, place on buttered 
plate and steam from one hour and a half 
to two hours ; or boil in a floured cloth, 
basting up the sides and tying the ends. RonyPoiy. 

Some do not turn edges in till after rolling, then tuck them in well. 
Serve cut in slices with Dip or Hard Sauce. For Apple, Orange 
and Peach Roily- Poly the fruit should be sliced, and for Cherry.^ 
stoned ; sprinkle the fruit well with sugar, and some add bits of but- 
ter before rolling up, with a little grated peel over the oranges, and 
cinnamon or nutmeg over the apple. Some use Plain or Suet Paste 
or raised biscuit dough, rolling a quarter inch thick. This dessert 
may be varied by making into several small rolls, or shaping into 
balls with a spoonful fruit in center of each. Some sprinkle in a 
few currants Avith the apples and use raisins with jelly, jam, apple 
butter or marmalade. For Fig Roily- Poly spread with figs cut in 




766 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



small pieces and for Lemon cook the pulp of three lemons with cup 
and a half sugar twenty minutes, then spi-ead the dough and roll as 
above. Or some simply mix the juice with teaspoon each flour and 
sugar for each lemon and spread over the paste, or use the Lemon 
Butter. Chopped pie-plant, thickly sprinkled with sugar is nice 
used as above. A Dixie Roily-Pol}! is made in two or three 
rolls, using any of above mixture for spreading, and placed in pan 
four or five inches deep with cup sugar, half cup butter and hot 
water enough to cover. Bake half an hour. 

Savarin. — Take quart sifted flour, make a well in center, and 
put in half ounce compressed yeast and two tablespoons lukewarm 
milk ; mix these together and stand sponge in warm place. When 
risen to twice its first size, put in gill warm milk and two eggs . With 
spoon work the mixture together and stir in one more egg ; add 
three-fourths pound butter, teaspoon salt, tablespoon sugar, and 
another half gill warm milk. Still keep working mixture, and add 
an egg at a time till five have been used. Cut into small pieces two 
ounces candied orange peel and mix it in the paste. Butter a flut- 
ted cylinder mold, strew a tablespoon chopped almonds on butter, 
and half fill mold with paste. Let it stand till it has risen to the 
top, bake, and when done, turn out. Serve with syrup poured over 
it, flavored as preferred. Or With Apples^ bake a savarin as above in 

cylinder mold eight inches across 
and when done turn it out on a tall 
dish so that it stands nearly one and 
a half feet high. Peel two good ap- 
ples, cut into small dice and boil them 
in syrup. Peel and cut pears in same 
way, adding a drop or two prepared 
cochineal to color them. Peel and 

_______^__^^ core seven more apples, halve them and 

Savarin With Apples. boil iu sj^rup. Cut fourtecu slices pre- 

served pine-apple of the size of the apple pieces, warming them in 
some syrup. Place these pieces of apple and pine-apple alternately 
round the savarin. Cut into dice some preserved apricots, cherries, 
and greengages and boil a minute or two with a gill syrup and half 
a gill orange juice ; fill center of circle made as above with this mix- 
ture and garnish with preserved cherries. 




Sauces. 



uirrowroot Sauce. — Mix two teaspoons arrowroot smoothly 
with half pint water ; put in saucepan, add three tablespoons sugar, 
juice of one lemon and quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg. Let boil, 
then serve, A gill of any fruit juice may be added if liked. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



767 



Apricot Sauce.— Vnt one cup cream or milk in custaxd kettle ; 
when hot add tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smoothly with a little 
cold milk and cook fifteen minutes. Boil cup sugar and t«n tabie- 
si>()ons water half an hour ; to this add half cup apricot pulp (can- 
ned or fresh fruit rubbed through a sieve), beat well and mix with 
the boiled milk. Place inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat 
far ten minutes, let cool. Peach, Strawberry, Baspberry, and any 
fruit may be prepared as above. 

Cape May Sauce.— 'Place gill milk in pan in boiling water and 
when scalding hot add half pint powdered sugar mixed with yolks 
of two eggs ; stir until thick as boiled custard, take off and when 
cool add flavoring to taste. Just before serving mix the well-beaten 
Avhites lightly with the sauce. If not liked so rich use doublethe 
quantity of milk and for Snmo Sauce use only the beaten whites, 
mixing" in at first, and just before serving add half gill lemon juice. 

Caramel Sauce.— Make a caramel as on page 411 of three table- 
spoons sugar, watch carefully until it assumes a delicate brown 
color ; put into another saucepan three-quarters cup sugar, half the 
rind of a lemon cut thin, one inch stick cinnamon and three-quar- 
ters pint cold water ; bring these to a boil gradually ; simmer tor ten 
minutes, add two tablespoons each lemon and orange juice, strain 
the liquid quickly into the caramel, mix thoroughly and serve. 

Cherry Saiice.— Stone pint cherries, crack stones, take out ker- 
nels and pound in mortar to smooth paste ; put tablespoon each 
butter and flour in saucepan and stir over fire till a delicate brown, 
then add cherries, the pounded kernels, four tablespoons orange 
juice and half pint xvater. Simmer gently fifteen minutes, or until 
cherries are cooked, and rub the whole through a puree sieve ; add 
a little grated lemon rind, powdered cloves and sugar to taste. Bring 
to boiling point and add two tablespoons lemon juice, then serve. 
This is a delicious sauce for Boiled Batter Pudding, and when thus 
used, should be sent to table poured over the pudding. 

Chocolate Sauce.— Stiv two ounces chocolate (grated) into half 
pint each cream and milk. Sweeten to taste, cook in custard ket- 
tle and add small piece vanilla bean. When hot beat into it yolks 
of four eggs till a good froth and cook till thick. Pvemove from fire, 
add well-whipped whites of four eggs mixed with tablespoon sugar, 
stirring in lightly without breaking up the snow-like look of the 
froth, and serve either hot or cold. Or to half pint of any boiled 
custard add one ounce grated chocolate. 

Cider Sauce.— Mix two tablespoons butter with a tablespoon 
flour; stir in half pint brown sugar, and half gill boiled cider: add 
gill of boiling water, mix well, simmer a few moments and serve hot. 



(68 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES, 



Cocoa-nut Sauce. — Two tablespoons butter, cup of sugar, table- 
spoon of flour, milk of one cocoa-nut, with a small piece grated. 

Cream Sauce. — Beat to a cream three tablespoons butter, one 
cup granulated sugar in a bowl and add half cup cream. Stir one 
egg, without Ideating, gently through the mixture and place bowl 
inside of top of tea-kettle. When hot, Havor with tablespoon each 
lemon and orange juice or teaspoon vanilla, and serve. Or With- 
out Eggs., use powdered sugar, omit the egg and stir constantly. 
Add flavoring and serve. For a less rich sauce a half cup boiling 
water may be added with the cream. For Cold Cream Sauce, beat 
together one cup sugar and half cup butter, and add a cup rich 
cream. Stir all to a cream, flavoring with vanilla or lemon, and 
place where it will get very cold before serving. For Whipped 
Cream Sauce, whip a pint of thick sweet cream, add beaten whites 
of two eggs, sweeten to taste ; place pudding ij^i center of dish, and 
surround with the sauce ; or pile up in center and surround with 
small molds of blanc-mange, or fruit puddings. 

Currant Sauce. — Put in stewpan two tablespoons each butter 
and flour, and stir till a light brown, add a little water and a glass 
of currant or any fruit juice, or a spoonful of jelly beaten in a glass 
of water. For ix, Dried Currant Sauce, i^ick and wash three table- 
spoons nice currants, add quarter teaspoon ginger, the juice of half a 
lemon, and seven or eight lumps sugar, rubbed on the lemon rind. 
Simmer all these ingredients together till currants are soft. Serve 
without straining. Any dried berries may be prepared same. 

Custard Satice. — Four yolks of eggs, four tablespoons pow- 
dered sugar, grated rind of a lemon, four tablespoons anv fruit 
juice or half and half lemon and orange juice, and a little salt. Beat 
(piickly over a slow tire, until it assumes a light, frothy custard. 

Dip Sauce. — One pint cream or half milk, three tablespoons 
suga{, and half a small nutmeg, grated. 

Egg Sauce. — Heat a pint milk to boiling and stir in tablespoon 
butter and four of sugar; take from fire and stir in yolks of four 
eggs beaten with two tablespoons cold milk, then add whipped 
whites of eggs, flavor with vanilla and serve immediately. 

Every-day Sauce. — To pint boiling water, add heaping cup 
sugar, pinch salt, and tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smoothly with 
cold water ; season with nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla or lemon ex- 
tract, boil two or three minutes, stirring all the time, add tablespoon 
butter and serve. If wanted very clear boil half an hour. For a 
Jelly Sauce add to above two teaspoons currant, grape, or any jelly 
beaten with one of water just before serving, omitting all other 
flavoring. For a Emit Sauce add two tablespoons any fruit syrup. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 769 

For Prairie Smice, use two-thirds pint water, add another table- 
spoon butter and beat in whipped -wliite of an egj^ just before serv- 
ing. Some add two whole eggs, well 1)eaten. Milk may be used in- 
stead of water in any of above with half as much sugar. For a 
Lemon Sauce^ add to the Every-day Sauce half a lemon, thinly 
sliced. Adding a teaspoon each extract cloves, mace and ginger to 
the Every-day Sauce, makes a nice Spice Sauce. 

Foaming Sauce. — Melt cup sugar in little water, let boil, stir in 
two tablespoons each lemon and orange juice, and then the beaten 
whites of three eggs ; serve at once. Or Without Eggs beat half cup 
each butter and sugar to a frothy cream ; set dish in pan hot water, 
add tablespoon hot water, or more, if preferred ; flavor with vanilla, 
and stir one way till it becomes a very light foam. 

Fruit Sauce. — Cream a half pound butter, stir in three-quarters 
pound brown sugar, and beaten yolk of an egg ; simmer a few mo- 
ments over a slow fire, stirring almost constantly ; Avhen near boil- 
ing add a half pint bottled grape or raspberry juice. Or beat four 
eggs and put in saucepan with two teaspoons flour smoothed in a 
little water, quarter pound sugar, and a pint fresh fruit juice, rasp- 
berry is nice. Put on fire and stir lightly till it thickens, and when 
it becomes light and frothy serve at once. 

Golden Sauce — Cream two tablespoons butter and four of 
sugar ; add yolk of egg and stir all into half pint boiling water. Let- 
cook a few moments in a pan of hot water, then add beaten white 
slowly and serve. Flavor as preferred. 

Hard Sauce. — Beat cup white sugar, powdered is best, and half 
cup butter together until thoroughly mixed, the longer it is beaten 
the whiter it becomes. Place in glass dish nicely rounded and 
smoothed, with nutmeg cinnamon or grated orange or lemon peel 
sprinkled thickly over. Serve very cold. Or flavor with any ex- 
tract preferred, make into oval shapes with teaspoon and serve 
piled in a dish. Good for nearly all puddings and may be colored 
pink by adding a little fruit juice while beating. Some take equal 
parts butter and sugar, which makes the sauce very rich. In cold 
weather the butter will need to be softened a little. Flavor with 
pine-apple extract for Pine-apyle Hard Sauce ; form into pja-amid, 
and by indenting with a teaspoon shape it like a pine-apple. Some add 
whipped white of an egg. For Lemon Hard Sauce, add juice of a 
Avhole or half a lemon according to size, using the grated peel as 
above. Make Orange Hard Sauce same, or select a thin orange, 
cut the skin into six equal parts, by cutting through at stem end and 
j)assing the knife around the orange to nearly the blossom end ; 
loosen and turn each piece down and remove the orange. Extract 
juice and mix it with yellow sugar (prepared by dropping a drop or 



770 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

two of gold coloring on while i-ngar wliile stirring it) till a ball can 
be formed, which ])lace in the orange peel and serve. The gold col- 
oring may be omitted. Lemon Sauce may be made same way. For 
Cocoa-mit Hard Sauce., add a tablespoon grated cocoa-nut to first 
recipe and also sprinkle with it. 

Lactiola Sauce. — Scald a half pint milk, add sugar to taste and 
teaspoon flour or corn-starch mixed smooth with a little cold milk ; 
boil two or three minutes, stirring constantly, remove from fire, and 
add beaten yolks of two eggs and any flavoring liked. Or scald six 
tablespoons milk and pour over the well-beaten j^olk of one egg, 
mixed with two tablespoons sugar ; then pour this over the whip- 
ped whites beaten with two more tablespoons sugar. Flavor with 
nutmeg and serve either cold or hot. 

Lemon Sauce. — Stir tablespoon each flour and butier in sauce- 
pan over fire till mixture bubbles, pour in hot water — about a pint — 
slowly till sauce is thick as cream, add heaping tablespoon sugar, 
boil up once, add juice and grated rind of a lemon and serve. An 
egg or two or yolks of three or four may be added, and more sugar 
to sweeten to taste. For a richer sauce, take two cups sugar, two 
eggs, juice and rind of two lemons; beat all together, and just be- 
fore serving add pint boiling water ; set on stove, and when at boil- 
ing point, serve. Never boil sauce after adding lemon, as it makes 
it bitter. Some add one-third cup butter and tablespoon corn-starch. 
Or take six eggs, leaving out whites of two, half pound butter, 
pound sugar, juice and grated rind of two lemons; place over slow 
fire and stir till it thickens like honey. Very nice. Orange Sauce 
may be made same, using less sugar. 

Maple-sugar Sauce. — Melt over slow fire, in scant cup water, 
half pint maple sugar ; let it simmer, removing all scum ; add four 
tablespoons butter mixed with a level teaspoon flour and one of 
grated nutmeg ; boil a few moments, and serve with boiled pud- 
dings. Or, make Hard Sauce of tablespoon butter to two of sugar. 

Marigold Sauce. — Four tablespoons butter, seven of best pow- 
dered sugar, half cup fruit juice, cup cream, half a nutmeg, yolks of 
six eggs ; scald cream in custard kettle, beat butter, sugar and eggs 
together; add nutmeg, pour hot cream over all, add juice and serve. 

Minnehaha Sauce. — Beat, in a two quart bowl, four tablespoons 
butter and two-thirds pint brown sugar, to a cream, with a wooden 
spoon ; then add four tablespoons sweet cream, then the juice and 
grated rind of a large lemon , place bowl in top of tea-kettle half full 
of boiling water; when melted to a thick creamy froth, serve. 

Orange Sauce. — Beat whites of five eggs to stiff froth, add coffee 
cup powdered sugar, juice of two oranges and grated rind of one. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 771 



Make Lemon Sauce same wa3^ Or make in proportion of two e^-gs 
to one lemon and half cup sugar. 

Pine-apple Sauce.— Qvo^ie a pine-apple, add a very little water 
simmer until quite tender, mix with it, by degrees, half its weight in 
sugar, boil gently for five minutes, and serve. 

Plain Sauce.— Mdke as White Sauce, page 178, using sugar in 
place of salt and pepper and adding a little grated lemon rind nut- 
meg or powdered cinnamon. Boiling a few bitter almonds i'n the 
milk lor half an hour, then straining and using as above is nice. 

P7mne Sauce.— 'Boil a half pound best prunes in just enouf^h 
water to cover till soft. Remove from pan, take out stones break 
them fn a mortar ; put these and the fruit, with four tablesoons any 
fruitjuice,juiceofalemon and small piece of the peel, in sauce- 
pan ; add syrup m which prunes were boiled, a little sugar to taste 
half teaspoon powdered cinnamon, and simmer seven or eight min- 
utes. Strain through a coarse sieve and add more water if too thick. 

Queen Sauce.— Bo\\ pint water and scant three gills suo-ar half 
an hour; when cold, add gill orange and one-third of lemon juice 
Or if wished hot add the juice just before taking from stove. 

Sago Sauce. — Wash tablespoon sago in two or three waters 
and then put in saucepan, with third of a pint water and peel of a 
lemon ; simmer gently ten minutes, take out lemon peel, add strained 
juice of one lemon and two oranges with sugar to taste, and if liked a 
little cinnamon, give one boil and serve. This is a delicious sauce 
lor boiled puddings. 

Saratoga Sauce.— Boil half cup each cream and milk stir in 
heaping teaspoon corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold milk 
and add two tablespoons butter beaten to a cream with five of sugar' 
Serve at once. 

Strawberry Sauce.— H^M cup butter, one and half cups sugar 
and pint strawberries mashed till juicv. Canned berries may be' 
used. Beat butter and sugar to a cream ; then stir in berries and 
beaten white of an egg. Raspberry Sauce made same way Or 
take two_ eggs, half cup butter, cup sugar and beat thoroughlv to- 
gether with a cup boiling milk and one of berries. 

Vi7iegar Sauce.— Vmt boiling water, cup sugar, tablespoon 
Hour mixed .smoothly in a little water, quarter of a grated nutme^r 
and a pinch ot salt ; let boil ten minutes ; just before serving add 
tablespoon butter and two tablespoons vineo-ar. 



772 SALADS. 



SALADS. 



Salads, when properly prepared, are very appetizing and whole- 
some, especially in the spring Avhen the system needs the refresh- 
ing and tonic elements of the green salad plants. They may also 
be made very attractive additions to the table, and as will be seen 
by reference to the recipes which follow are very easily prepared, re- 
quiring very little thought or labor and many from the most simple 
ingredients, while some are quite inexpensive, utilizing odds and ends 
that frequently go to waste. The variety of salad materials is almost 
innumerable and may be divided into six classes ; salad plants, un- 
cooked and cooked vegetables, meats, fish, and fruits. For a list of the 
first, see Marketing. The excellence of a salad depends upon the fresh- 
ness of its materials, and the preservation of an equal flavor in the use 
of condiments ; the best salad is one in which no one flavor pre- 
dominates and the ingredients composing tlie salad must harmon- 
ize with the dressing. The importance of using none but the purest 
condiments must not be overlooked, for a perfect salad cannot be made 
with inferior ingredients. All vegetables must be carefully cleaned 
and if to be used uncooked, thoroughly cooled before dressing. Let- 
tuce should be carefully washed, as soon after picked as possible, in 
plenty of cold, salted water, rejecting all imperfect leaves, berng 
careful not to bruise stems or leaves as it causes them to wilt, and 
left in clean, cold, salted water until fresh and crisp ; then wrapped 
in a clean wet cloth, and kept in a cool, dark place; to lay it next 
ice in a refrigerator is an excellent way to keep it fresh and crisp. 
The salad in which lettuce is used should not be dressed until just 



SALADS. 773 

before serving, because the lettuce wilts so soon after the dressing 
is applied ; the nicest small leaves should be reserved for decorat- 
ing, the larger ones should be laid around the sides and in bottom 
of salad bowl, and the rest torn apart with the fingers. 

Celery should also be carefully washed in plenty of cold, salted 
water, trimmed into lengths, wrapped in a wet cloth, and kept in cold 
place until wanted for the salad, when it should be cut into bits 
with a knife, not chopped. When celery cannot be had, chopped 
white cabbage, or head lettuce, shredded, may be used instead with 
celery seed. Frozen celery should be thrown into cold water while 
it is yet stiff; if it is allowed to partly thaw before putting into cold 
water it will be spoiled. All vegetables can be kept as above and 
crisped by placing in ice water an hour or two before serving. As- 
paragus, pease, and string beans for salads should be boiled in salted 
boiling water until tender, then drained and put into cold water at 
once, to preserve their color, and drained on a dry cloth to free from 
moisture before using. In preparing meat for salads it is much nicer to 
pick it or cut with a knife instead of chopping, always removing bits 
of gristle, fat and skin. 



Mixing Salads. — In preparing dressing, powder the hard-boiled 
eggs, either in a mortar with a wooden pestle or by mashing with 
back of salad ^oon (if raw eggs are used beat well and strain), add 
seasoning, then oil, a few drops at a time, and, lastly and gradually, 
vinegar. The wooden salad fork and spoon are 
best to use in making salads, though silver may 
be used. Always use freshest olive salad oil, not 
common sweet oil ; a dark paper should be kept saua Fork and spoon. 
around the bottles of oil to shield them from the light, and they 
should be corked tightly enough to exclude the air and kept in a 
cool place. If oil can not be obtained, cream or melted butter is a 
good substitute and by some considered even more palatable, but 
when used it should be added last of all. All cooked dressings are 
better made in custard kettle, using great care in adding eggs, let- 
ting the mixture cool slightly, and adding slowly, lest they curdle. 
Then, whether cooked or uncooked, dressing should be made as 
cold as possible before mixing with the salad, save when otherwise 
specified in recipes where cooked dressings are used. The quantity 
of oil and vinegar may be increased or diminished according to taste, 
as many persons prefer^ a smaller portion of the former, and when 
sugar is used the quantity will depend somewhat upon the acidity 



774 SALADS. 

of the vinegar. In using raw eggs, the yolks make a richer dressing 
and when malting a quantity it is economical to prepare it on bak- 
ing day, using the whites for cake. Appropriate dressings for each 
salad are suggested in recipes, but any dressing preferred may of 
course be used instead. When mixed, green salads should be stir- 
red as little as possible, in order that their freshness may be pre- 
served until they are served. Borage, summer savory, chervil, nas- 
turtium, sorrel and endive (which must be blanched or it is bitter) 
may be added to green salads. In preparing meat salads, all the. 
ingredients, except the dehcate green, if any is used, may be pre- 
pared the day before using if kept on ice or in cold place, but must 
not be mixed until an hour or two before serving. Then add the 
dressing and mix by tossing up lightly with aAvooden or silver fork, 
turn into salad-bowl or on platter and shape into an oval mound, 
taking care to handle very lightly, never using the least pressure to 
get it into form ; then place on ice or in very cold place till ready to 
serve, as cold salad must be ice cold to be at its prime. Or mix 
only a part of the dressing with the salad and place remainder over 
the top. The salad is sometimes mixed with a plain dressing and 
a Mayonnaise placed over just before serving ; or the entire dressing 
may "be poured over the top. The Mayonnaise, or a cooked dress- 
ing is generally used with chicken, fish or meat salads, and most 
vegetable salads ; for green salads, lettuce, cress, etc., the French 
or any plain dressing is most appropriate. 

Servinp Salads. — Green salads are usually served in salad- 
bowl, also those arranged in layers, but for meat salads and com- 
bination of vegetables, as the Russian and Boston, J:he platter is 
more often used, as it can be more handsomely garnished and pre- 
sents a more attractive appearance. Though suggestions for garn- 
ishing follow each recipe, no exact rules can be given as the ma- 
terials mentioned may not always be at hand and much depends 
upon the individual taste and judgment. Wild flowers or nastur- 
tiums neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green, are very pretty 
during warm weather. During cold weather garnish with sliced 
eggs and pretty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes,_celery, etc.^ 
As handsome a garnish as we ever saw was as follows ; in center of 
the hollowed halves of whites of boiled eggs was placed a spray or 
two of parsley, the stem stuck in egg, so it was held firmly ; three of 
these halves were placed in center of salad, then rings of the white 
placed around salad with a spray of parsley in each ; celery tufts 
could be used instead of parsley. A nice way of serving is in Salad 
S/iells;]ii^tU\'o or three smalllettuce leaves together in form of a 
sliell, or take the cu})-shaped leaves, form cups and arrange on a 
platter ; or some place a folded napkin in salad-bowl, then cover 
with lettuce leaves to absorb the drippings from the ice and put in 
the shells or cups with pieces of ice between ; put in each a table- 
spoon of the salad and over this a teaspoon of dressing. Or ar- 



SALADS. 775 

range thus in individual dishes and place oiie at each plate ; this is 
a very simple and yet very attractive way of serving any salad, ex- 
cept a green salad. Fruit salads are generally served at breakfast ; 
vegetable and meat salads usually for tea and lunch or after meats 
at dinner. The cabbage, celery, cucumber, potato and green salads, 
are particularly appropriate for serving with meats, though some 
prefer to serve lettuce and celery salads after the meat course. The 
richer salads, like chicken, lobster and salmon are particularly 
nice for suppers and lunches, but are also served after meats at dinner. 

Bacon Dressing. — Cut half pound fat bacon in slices, then in 
very small pieces, and fry until fat extracted is a light brown ; re- 
move pan from fire, add juice of one lemon, four tablespoons strong 
vinegar, saltspoon pepper, and pour it over the salad with the pieces 
of bacon. A very nice dressing when oil is not to be had. Or heat 
two tablespoons bacon or pork fat, in custard kettle, stir in table- 
spoon flour, add half cup water and boil up once ; add half cup vin- 
egar, and two eggs, beaten with half teaspoon salt, teaspoon each 
sugar and mustard and tablespoon lemon juice ; cook four minutes, 
stirring constantly, cool and use. Will keep two or three weeks in 
cold place if corked tightly. Or With Onion, fry two large slices 
onion, finely minced, in two tablespoons bacon or pork fat, until 
yellow, then add teaspoon each salt and sugar, quarter teaspoon 
pepper and half cup vinegar. Nice for Cabbage Salad. 

Bavarian T)ressing. — Put half jiint boiling water in custard 
kettle, add three tablespoons vinegar and place on stove. Beat three 
eggs lightly ; mix with a little cold water, tablespoon mustard, tea- 
spoon salt, pinch of cayenne and half tablespoon corn-starch, beat 
this mixture up with eggs, and stir it very slowly into the boiling 
water and vinegar, removing latter from stove in order to prevent 
possibility of curdling ; then return to stove and stir constantly un- 
til quite thick. Take from fire, add immediately a quarter pound 
butter and stir until it is thoroughly melted. Put yolk of an egg 
on plate, and with a fork, mix gradually with it gill olive oil, beat- 
ing it in well. When first mixture is cold, beat second into it. If 
more oil is desired, the yolk of another egg must be mixed with it. 
This recipe will make about a pint. 

Bohemian Dressing. — Beat yolks of eight eggs, add cup sugar, 
tablespoon each salt, mustard, -and black pepper, a little cayenne, 
half cup cream, and mix thoroughly ; bring to a boil a pint and a 
half vinegar, add cup butter, and when melted pour upon the mix- 
ture, stir well, and \vhen cold put into bottles and set in cool place. 
Will keep weeks in hot weather ; is excellent for cabbage or lettuce. 

Bouillon Dressing. — To one pint boiling water, or veal, fish or 
chicken broth add a small, scraped carrot and half an onion, sliced, 
half bay leaf, celery root cut in pieces, seven cloves, five whole all- 



776 SALADS. 

spice, fifteen pepper-corns and quarter teaspoon white mustard seed ; 
simmer fifty minutes, adding a little more water if needed ; strain 
and cool. To each gill liquid add a gill vinegar, teaspoon sugar, 
and pour over any salad wished. For Jellied Bouillon Dressing, 
add to this, third of box gelatine soaked in cold water, and to each 
quart of liquid the white and shell of an egg ; when just commencing 
to boil place on back of range and simmer seven minutes or until 
it looks clear as in clarifying soup ; strain and use as directed in Gelin- 
ola Salad. When vinegar is strong do not use more than two-thirds as 
much. Double this recipe makes a pint of bouillon and this with 
two-thirds pint vinegar, two-thirds box or ounce and a third gela- 
tine and a box sardines makes a quart mold of Sardine Salad. 

Cream Dressing. — Three eggs, tablespoons olive oil or melted 
butter, and two of mustard, cup each sweet cream and vinegar, tea- 
spoon each salt and pepper ; mix mustard and oil, then eggs well- 
beaten, cream, vinegar, salt and pepper, all together; put mixture 
in custard kettle and boil gently until thick as cream ; when done, 
put in quart jar, cork tightly, and it v/ill keep for months. Can be 
used for all kinds of salads and slaws, A tablespoon sugar may be 
added if liked. If to be used immediately make only half or a third 
of the recipe, and add beaten egg and cream after taking from fire. 
Some use only the yolks of eggs, and add a small onion chopped 
very fine, or for Rye Beach Dressing^ put half pint sweet cream in 
custard kettle ; when hot, add tablespoon corn-starch or two-thirds 
as much flour, cook three minutes, add tablespoon sugar, remove 
from fire and when slightly cooled add the well-frothed whites of 
two eggs. When cold, add tablespoon oil, teaspoon each salt and 
mustard, pinch cayenne, or saltspoon white pepper and .third of a 
pint vinegar. For Eggless Cream Dressing, prepare cream as 
above add tablespoon butter mixed smooth with a tablespoon and a 
half flour, cook two or three minutes ; take off fire, add tablespoon 
more butter, stir till w^ell mixed, add vinegar and seasoning as above, 
omitting the oil. Addition of lemon juice, minced onion, parsley, 
chopped pickle, etc., may be made as wished. To make a Cold 
Cream Dressing stir to a cream one egg, cup rich sweet cream, and 
tablespoon sugar and add half cup vinegar with mustard, salt and 
l^epper to taste. Set on ice till ready to serve. Or use yolks of 
two or more eggs, and lemon juice instead of vinegar, if preferred, 
and add two tablespoons salad oil . For Sour Cream ^ Dressing, 
mix in a saucepan one pint sour cream, as free from milk as pos- 
sible, and half pint good vinegar, pepper, salt, ji small piece of but- 
ter, sugar, and a level tablespoon mustard ; boil, add well-beaten 
yolks of two eggs, stirring carefully until consistency of starch, then 
set in cool place or on ice, and when cold pour over salad and mix 
well. For an uncooked dressing take cup sour cream, teaspoon 
each salt and sugar, tablespoon lemon juice, three of vinegar, small 
pinch cayenne, and mix together thoroughly. Best for vegetables. 



SALADS. 777 

Creole Dressing. — To three quarters pint tomato pulp obtained 
by rubbing cooked tomatoes through a puree sieve, add tablespoon 
arrowroot or corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold water. Boil 
ten minutes in custard kettle, add tablespoon butter, half teaspoon 
each sugar and salt, quarter of white pepper and two or three table- 
spoons vinegar. Use either hot or cold. 

Eggless Dressing. — Boil cup vinegar with half cup sugar, butter 
size of egg, tablespoon ground mustard, and salt and white pepper 
to taste. Let cool before adding to salad. A cup cream may be 
added when taken from fire. 

French Dressing. — Mix thoroughly together six tablespoons 
oil, two saltspoons salt, half saltspoon white pepper and two table- 
spoons vinegar. A pinch cayenne may be added. For an Italian 
Dressing add teaspoon each chopped onion and pickle. For Eng- 
lish Dressi?ig add to French Dressing a teaspoon prepared mustard. 

Lactiola Dressing. — Four tablespoons butter, one of flour, one 
of salt, one of sugar, heaping teaspoon mustard, pinch of cayenne, 
cup milk, half cup vinegar, three eggs. Heat the butter in custard 
kettle, add flour, and stir until smooth, being careful not to brown, 
then add milk, and boil up. Beat eggs, salt, pepper, sugar and mus- 
tard together, and add vinegar. Mix with boiling mixture, ami 
stir until it thickens like soft custard. Let cool, and when cold, 
bottle and place in ice chest. This will keep two or three weeks. 
Or take same proportions of other ingredients using oil instead of 
butter. Stir the oil, salt, mustard and sugar in a bowl until per- 
fectly smooth ; add the egg and beat well, then the vinegar and la.stly 
the milk. Cook in custard kettle eight or ten minutes, let cool and 
serve . Or if wanted richer and for immediate use take half as much 
vinegar and milk, beat the eggs separately and just before taking 
from fire add the whipped whites and let cool, stirring once or twice. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. — Take yolks of two eggs, two saltspoons 
salt, one of white pepper or pinch of cayenne, teaspoon dry mustard, 
half pint olive-oil and about three tablespoons vinegar. To prevent 
danger of curdling, beat with a wooden spoon the yolks, salt, pep- 
per and mustard together, before adding the oil which must be stir- 
red in gradually, a few drops at a time, taking care to blend each 
portion with the egg before adding more, stirring constantly, until 
a thick paste is formed, and the mixture has a glossy instead of 
velvety appearance; then add a few drops vinegar, stirring all the 
time, until of the consistency of thick cream ; stir in more oil in 
drops until the mayonnaise is stiff again, when a few drops vinegar 
should be beaten in and so continue alternating until all the oil is 
used, adding vinegar rather cautiously at the last so that when fin- 
ished the mayonnaise will be stiff enough to remain on top of the 



778 SALADS. 

salad. The dressing should be stirred one Avay, as reversing the 
current causes it to curdle. Lemon juice may be used instead of 
vinegar, or a few drops may be added with the vinegar. This is the 
smoothest and richest of salad dressings, the oily flavor is entirely 
lost in combination with the raw egg. Fifteen or twenty minutes 
are usually required for putting the ingredients together. Care 
must be taken not to add too much oil at first or the mayonnaise 
will curdle. When this happens, beat the yolks of one or two more 
eggs on another plate, add to them the curdled mayonnaise by de- 
grees, and finish by adding more oil and vinegar or lemon juice. 
Some think there is less danger of curdling if the addition of vine- 
gar is begun when only a little oil has been used. After all ingred- 
ients are thoroughly mixed the addition of a cup whipped cream en- 
riches the dressing, and some add a teaspoon or two sugar. This 
sauce keeps well, if bottled and corked with a glass stopper, and it 
may be made at any time in advance when yolks are left over from 
baking. In summer, place oil and eggs in cold place half an hour 
before making. The well-beaten white of an egg may be added to 
the dressing just before using. To make Red Mayonnaise., add 
lobster coral, pounded to a powder and rubbed through a sieve, or 
use juice from boiled beets. For Green Mayonnaise., add Spinach 
or Parsley Coloring, and usetaragon vinegar. If liked any of the 
flavored vinegars given in Pickles may be used instead of the plain. 
For Sardine Dressing add to the above the yolks of four hard- 
boiled eggs pounded in a mortar Avith three sardines which have 
been perfectly freed from bones, A nice dressing for fish. Butter 
can be used instead of oil in any mayonnaise dressing, by first 
creaming it, and adding slowly a well-beaten egg. 

Minnehaha Dressing. — Dissolve tablespoon mustard in a little 
vinegar, then add a little more of latter till a half pint is used ; mix 
in this gill sugar, more if wished sweeter, and two tablespoons soft, 
but not melted, butter ; let boil, place on back of range and add 
yolks of six eggs or. four whole ones, as directed in Mixing Salad. 
When done, and ice coid pour over any salad wished, but especially 
nice for Tip-Top Salad. This dressing keeps nicely when corked 
tightly. Less eggs may be taken, using a teaspoon corn-starch for 
each egg omitted. 

Orange Dressing. — Beat together two and a half gills orange 
and gill lemon juice, add five tablespoons fine granulated sugar and 
beaten white and shell of half an egg; cook in custard kettle ten 
minutes, strain and when cold pour over the salad. For Jollied 
Orange Dressing, add to above mixture when half done, third of a 
liox gelatine, (two-thirds of an ounce) soaked in seven tablespoons 
cold water, strain and use as directed in Gelinola Salad. For Basp- 
lerry Dressing, make as first recipe, using two and a half gills rasp- 



SALADS. 779 

berries and one gill currant juice ; for Jellied Raspberry Dressing, 
make as second recipe. Water may be added to juice if wished. 

Potato Dressing. — Peel one large potato, boil, mash until all 
lumps are out, and add yolk of a raw egg ; stir all well together and 
season with a teaspoon mustard and little salt ; add -about half gill 
olive oil and vinegar, putting in only a drop or two at a time, and 
stirring constantly, as success depends on its smoothness. 

Swedish Dressing. — Yolks of two eggs beaten thoroughly, level 
teaspoon salt, one of pepper, two of white sugar, two of prepared 
nuistard, tablespoon butter ; add four tablespoons best vinegar, put , 
in custard kettle and stir constantly till it thickens ; when cool it is 
ready for use. This is sufficient for one quart finely-chopped cab- 
bage, and for that should be poured over while hot, thoroughlv 
mixed with it and served when cold. 

Swiss Dressing. — Mash the yolks of fom- hard-boiled eggs, with 
two teaspoons each white pepper and made mustard, one of salt and 
a pinch of cayenne ; add three tablespoons melted butter or salad 
oil, a few drops at a time, and when smooth stir in a well-beaten 
egg, and gradually add cup vinegar, or use half lemon juice. Some 
use only the yolks of two or three hard-l)oiled eggs, and stir in 
beaten yolks of two eggs at the last instead of the whole egg. A 
tablespoon sugar may be added, and cream qr clarified chicken fat 
may be used instead of oil or butter, adding twice the quantity of 
cream. Or for a Foam Dressing stir in first recipe the whipped 
white of an egg just before serving, having added tablespoon sugar. 

Anchovy Salad. — Wash, skin and bone eight salted anchovies 
soak in cold water, or water and milk, an hour, then drain and dry, 
them. Arrange lettuce leaves neatly in salad bowl and over them 
put the anchovies and two sliced hard-boiled eggs, pour a Frencli 
or any plain Dressing over and serve. If preferred, the fish may be 
chopped or cut into strips. 

Apple Salad. — Slice very tart apples and mix with young 
onions, chopped, place on a dish and pour a French Dressing ovei\ 
Or for Apple n.nd. Celery Salad mix equal quantities sliced apples 
and cut celery and pour over any dressing preferred. 

Asparagus Salad. — Scrape if necessary, and wash asparagus, 
and boil soft in salt water ; drain off water, add pepper, salt and 
strong cider vinegar, and then cool. Before serving, arrange as- 
paragus so that heads will all lie in center of dish ; mix the vinegar 
in which it was put after removing from the fire with good olive oil 
or melted butter, and pour over the asparagus. Or pour over the 
Eggless Dressing. Or arrange the asparagus in center of dish with 
border of cauHflower, first cooked in salt water and cooled, and pour 
over Cream or Mayonnaise Dressing. Or after cooking the aspara- 




780 SALADS. 

gus put in cold water as directed in preface, cut in inch pieces and 
serve as above. Garnish with capers. 

Bean Salad. — String young beans, break into half-inch pieces 
(or leave whole), wash and cook soft in salt water; drain well, 
add finely-chopped onions, pepper, salt, and vinegar ; when cool add 
olive-oil or melted butter. The onions may be 
omitted. Or when beans are cold slice them 
lengthwise, cutting each beanintofour long slices ; 
Bean Salad. placc thcm ncatly, the slices all lying in one di- 

rection, crosswise on a platter. Season them an hour or two before 
serving, with a marinade of a little pepper, salt, and three spoonfuls 
of vinegar to one spoonful of oil. Just before serving, drain from 
them any drops that may have collected and carefully mix with the 
Italian Dressing. For Lima Bean Salad, boil quart Lima beans 
in salted water till tender, drain and put in salad bowl with three 
hot boiled potatoes cut in slices, chop a stalk celery and sprinkle 
over, then cover with the English Dressing, set in cool place or on 
ice and when cold serve. A little cold boiled tongue may be added 
if liked. To make salad from dried beans, soak the beans and boil 
in salted water until done, but not broken ; when cold, add grated 
onion and chopped parsley to taste, and the French Dressing. 

^ Borage Salad. Prepare as lettuce, add a few leaves sorrel, a 
sprig or two each chervil, tarragon and parsley and teaspoon chop- 
ped chives ; pour over a French Dressing and serve. Or for a Mixed 
Salad, take equal parts borage, lettuce and sorrel, add one or more 
of the herbs and dress as above. 

Cahhage Salad. — Two quarts finely-chopped cabbage, two level 
tablespoons salt, two of white sugar, one of pepper, and a heaping 
one of ground mustard ; rub yolks of four hard-boiled eggs until 
smooth, add half cup butter, slightly warmed ; mix thoroughly with 
the cublnige, and add cup good vinegar ; serve with whites of eggs 
sliced and placed on salad. Or mix with the chopped cabbage any 
hot dressing ; the Cream Dressing and the Bacon Dressing with 
onions are both nice with cabbage. Some add ten chopped hard- 
boiled eggs to the cabbage, or chopped celery in the proportion 
liked, mixing with either any dressing preferred. Tip-top Salad is 
made by letting the tAVo quarts chopped cabbage soak in salted water, 
two tablespoons salt to quart water, an hour or longer ; meantime 
making the Minnehaha Dressing and mixing it with the cabbage after 
draining in colander, pressing well with potato masher to extract 
all thewater; toss lightly with fork and serve. A little chopped celery 
soaked with the cabbage is an improvement as it harmonizes perfectly 
and a quantity may be made up for it keeps nicely in a tightly cov- 
ered jar. Many prefer to omit the mustard from this as well as all 
Cabbage Salads, thinking the cabbage possesses enough of that bit- 
j^ng flavor in itself. Or heat scant cup vinegar, and when boiling add 



SALADS. 781 

tablespoon each Initter and sngar, teaspoon essence of celery and 
white pepper and salt to taste ; then stir in a small head cabbage, 
chopped or sliced fine and scalding hot, but do not boil. Meantime 
have a cup sweet milk heated to boiling, stir in two well-beaten eggs 
and cook till it thickens. Put the cabbage in salad bowl, turn the 
custard over it and stir in quickly, tossing up with silver fork until 
thoroughly incorporated. Cover to keep in the strength of vinegar 
and set on ice. Serve perfectly cold garnished with sliced hard- 
boiled eggs and tufts of green alternated with red pickled beets ; using 
the white of eggs in rings and filling center with the beets cut to fit, or 
in any fancy shape makes a pretty ornament. For Peppei' Salad^ add 
chopped green peppers removing seeds, to cabbage shaved fine and 
serve with a Swedish Dressing. 

Celery Salad. — Cut off the root end of three heads of blanched 
celery, wipe each stalk carefully, cuu into small pieces, put in salad 
bowl, place a Potato or Mayonnaise Dressing over and serve. May 
be garnished with white celery leaves or water cresses, or arrange on 
a flat dish and encircle with points of pickled beets. Another 
salad is made by mixing a head of cabbage with three bunches 
celery, first chopping both fine and add any dressing preferred. 

Chicken Salad. — Boil three chickens until tender, salting to 
taste ; when cold cut in half-inch pieces, rejecting all fat, gristle and 
skin and add twice the quantity of celery washed and cut up with a 
knife but not chopped, and four cold-boiled eggs sliced and thor- 
oughly mixed through the other ingredients. For dressing, put on 
stove a saucepan with pint vinegar and butter size of an egg, and 
beat two or three eggs with one tablespoon mustard, and white pep- 
per, two of sugar and teaspoon salt, and when thoroughly beaten 
together pour slowly into the vinegar until it thickens. Be careful 
not to cook too long or the egg will curdle. Remove, and when 
cold pour over salad, mixing it lightly through with wooden or 
silver fork, adding pinch of cayenne and juice of one ortwo lemons. 
Taste to ascertain if rightly seasoned, and add more vinegar and 
salt as needed. All may be prepared the day before, mixing a short 
time before using. If a very delicate salad is wanted use only 
the white meat. Some use half as much celery as chicken, others 
equal quantities and some one and a half or twice as much of for- 
mer as latter, and the proportions may be otherwise varied to suit 
the taste of individuals. Some use half celery and half lettuce, and 
either cabbage, lettuce or chopped pickled cucumbers may be used 
instead of celery, adding two tablespoons celery seed, but the salad 
will not be so nice. The celery and chicken should be cut in same- 
sized pieces, but never chop either, as if cut too fine the salad be- 
comes an unsightly hash. Some use only the whites of hard-boiled 
eggs in the salad, and add the mashed yolks to the dressing, or use 
latter in the salad and the whites cut in rings as a garnish ; both 
raw and boiled eggs may also be omittad from dressing. Olives 



782 SALADS. 

are liked by some in chicken salad. The dish may be very taste- 
fully garnished with sliced lemon, boiled beets sliced and cut in 
fancy shapes, hard-boiled eggs in slices, or use the white rings and 
yolk slices separately, small pickled cucumbers, olives, strips of 
anchovies, and small lettuce leaves, celery or parsley ; combining 
any two or more as fancy dictates. When preparing for a large 
company, turkey may be used to better advantage than chicken, 
there being so much more meat in same number of pounds. If 
either turkey or chicken is allowed to cool in water in which it is 
boiled the meat will be more juicy and tender than if taken from 
the water as soon as done. The liquor makes very excellent soup. 
Avith the usual additions, and should be saved for this purpose. 
Some claim that chicken salad made after the following rule can be 
mixed two or three iL.j^s before using: Boil one chicken tender 
and chop the meat r'- > idcrately fine, also the whites of twelve hard- 
boiled eggs, r.dd c")i:?,I quantities of chopped celery and cabbage; 
mash the yolk.'::, i '-.Ot zdC, tv/o tablespoons butter, two of sugar, one 
teaspoon mustcira, ^Qppcr and salt to taste, and lastly half cup good 
cider vinegar ; peiir over salad nnd mix thoroughly. The Philadel- 
phia D7'GScinn is considcrcc5 very nice and is made by adding to 
one pint, be .'ling water a heaping tablespoon corn-starch, mixed 
smooth in t ' K"^- water ; when well thickened add two tablespoons 
from the top of the chicken-liquor. Remove to back of range or 
table and add the beaten yolks of five eggs and continue to stir till 
almost cold. Prepare a thin dressing by rubbing yolks of three 
hard-boiled Cggs, very fine, adding tablespoon each made mustard 
and pulverized sugar and salt to taste, with a pinch of cayenne and 
teaspoon any bottled sauce. Then add two tablespoons salad oil 
and hrJf pint vinegar, three or four drops at a time of each, alternat- 
ing ac in Mayonnaise Dressing. Pour two-thirds of this over the 
celery and chicken, toss up lightly, put in dish and add the rest of 
thin dressing to the first mixture, mixing and placing it over the top 
of salad. For Mayonnaise Chicken Salad., prepare the chicken as 
above, place in earthen bowl and to every quart add two tablespoons 
vinegar, one of oil, half teaspoon salt and quarter teaspoon pepper. 
Set away in cold place an hour or two ; prepare ^,^,^9^^^ 
the celery as directed, in the proportion liked, and ^^^T^^i'^^^^ 
put in ice-box or other cool place until time to ^^^^^^^^^ 
serve. Make a Mayonnaise Dressing, mix the chkken saiad. 
chicken and celery together with a part of the dressing, arrange in 
a smooth mound on flat dish, pour remainder of Mayonaise over, and 
garnish with white celery leaves, reserved for this purpose, with a 
little bouquet of the leaves stuck on top, encircling with rows of capers 
and bordering with slices of hard-boiled eggs as shown in cut. Or 
when mixing the chicken and celery add half gill vinegar and a 
gill and a half salad oil to each quart salad, with pepper and salt 
to taste ', then make into a mound or place on a bed of lettuce leaves, 



SALADS. 



as above, and pour the Mayonnaise Dressing over. When muknig 
for large parties, or when the chicken is dry from having been cut 
up too long, first pour a Plain Dressing over the salad, let stand an 
hour or two and drain before dishing and adding the Mayonnaise. 
But when lettuce leaves are used, the vinegar or plain dressing must 
be poured over the chicken alone as the lettuce wilts so soon, and 
must be added only just before dishing for table. 

Crab Salad.— ^oi\ three dozen hard-shell crabs twent3^-five 
minutes, let cool, remove top shell and tail, and quarter the remain- 
der. Pick the meat out carefully with nut-pick or kitchen fork, tak- 
ing that also from the large claws, and the fat which adheres to the 
top shell; add an equal quantity cut celery and mix with a few 
spoonfuls French Dressing, then put in salad bowl and mask it with 
Mayonnaise Dressing. Garnish with the claws, shrimps and hard- 
boiled eggs alternating with tufts of green. For Craio-fish Salad, 
cook and prepare the fish as above, removing the tail part, splitting 
in two and taking out the black ligament. Put in salad bowl on 
bed of shred lettuce, pour Mayonnaise Dressing over, garnish with 
head part of shells, hard-boiled eggs and tufts of green, and serve. 

CuGumher Salad. — Put the cucumbers on ice until wanted and 
ni paring them take care to remove all the green inner portion of 
the skin, which is very bitter, first cutting off'the end where so much 
of the bitter juice is secreted, and pare them lengthwise. For the 
simplest of cucumber salads, after paring slice very thin, sprinkle a 
little salt over them, and lot stand ten minutes ; or lay them in pold, 
salted water an hour before serving ; then drain on a cloth, sprinkle 
over a half teaspoon pepper and cover with vinegar ; or pour a 
French or Cream Dressing over. Or after preparing the cucumbers 
as above mix two tablespoons salad oil or ham gravy with as much 
vinegar and teaspoon sugar, and add to the cucumbers with teaspoon 
pepper, stirring well. For Ciicumher and Onion Salad mix sliced 
or chopped onions Avith the cucumbers, put the dressing in bottom 
of salad bowl, place the sliced cucumbers in middle with onions 
around, and mix the dressing when serving. Lactiola Dressing is 
nice for this salad. For Radish Salad prepare and dress radishes 
same as cucumbers, adding a little sugar to modify their sharpness. 
A simple and agreeable Fruit Salad is made by combining goose- 
berries or barberries with young onions and cucumbers, sliced, serv- 
ing with any plain dressing. 

Ec/g Salad.— Put the small crisp leaves of a head of lettuce in 
salad bowl, slice four hard-boiled eggs over them and over these 
sprinkle a dozen chopped capers ; serve ivith Sour Cream Dressing 
poured over all. Or chop two large heads of lettuce coarsely with 
rip-ht hard-boiled eggs and mix with a small cup rich sweet cream, 
oAwo tablespoons best salad oil, with vinegar, mustard, pepper and 
salt to taste. A small head of cabbage may be sul)stituted for the 



784 SALADS. 

lettuce, but the cabbage must be thinly shaved with a sharp knife, 
not chopped. Cheese Salad is made the same, using finely minced 
cheese instead of eggs, and always making with lettuce. Serve with 
Eggless Dressing. A Mint Salad is made same as Egg Salad, add- 
ing six leaves mint chopped fine, and the Foam Dressing. 

Endive Salad. — The curled endive is excellent for fall and 
winter salads. Pick the leaves over carefully, separate the green 
from the white, blanch the latter and put in salad bowl, add minced 
herbs and very little minced onion and serve with French Dressing. 
Or take equal quantities endive, celery and cress. Shred the celery 
after cutting in inch pieces, mix all together and pile high in a dish, 
pour around them any dressing preferred and garnish with slices of 
hard-boiled eggs and boiled beets. 

Fish Salad. — Shred a pound cold boiled Lake trout into pieces 
an inch square, mix with half a Mayonnaise Dressing, place on a 
plate surrounded with tender leaves of lettuce to be eaten with it 
and pour remainder of dressing over. Or mix with the fish an equal 
quantity of cut celery, chopped cabbage or shred lettuce, some pre- 
ferring the latter for fish salads. Any kind of cooked or canned fish 
can be served same. Three salt anchovies, chopped with a dozen 
capers may be added before mixing in the dressing. Using Anchovy 
or Tarragon vinegar makes a nicer dressing for fish than the plain 
vinegar. For Codfish Salad either broil or boil the quantity de- 
sired, and when cold shred, mix with shred lettuce, add the Mayon- 
naise Dressing and serve with garnish of thinly-sliced lemons hard- 
boiled eggs, etc. For a Shad Roe Salad boil three roe in salted 
Avater twenty minutes, when cold cut in thin slices and let stand 
in the pickle given in Salmon Salad two or three hours. Then serve 
arranged in a circle on a bed of lettuce with Mayonnaise Dressing 
in center. Roe of any fish may be used and is nice With Tomatoes; 
after boiling, slice thin and place in salad bowl Avith alternate layers 
sliced tomatoes ; garnish with lettuce and sliced hard-boiled eggs 
and serve with Creole Dressing. 

Gelinola Salad. — This is one of the most delicious as well as 
ornamental salads and is made with fish, shell fish, meats, fruit, 
vegetables, etc. To make TIWii^^isA, any kind of cold, cooked fish 
may be used, cut in pieces, but sardines and canned shrimps pre- 
pared whole are especially ornamental ; make a Jellied Bouillon 
Dressing, using Tarragon or Anchovy vinegar if obtainable, instead 
of the plain vinegar. Rinse a mold and pour in some of the jelly, 
to the depth of third of an inch ; set mold in a bed of pounded ice, 
or snow, and put in a cold place ; when hardened lay in whole fish, 
or pieces, in any design wished, not letting them touch the sides of 
mold; then fill spaces between the fish with more jelly until the 
fish begin to float, and when hardened repeat as above, till mold is 
full. Keep dressing from hardening while using, by placing pitcher 



SALADS. ' 785 
— „ » 

in hot water as described in Chicken in Jelly; although if bed of ice 
or snow is used, the salad soon hardens and simply keeping the 
pitcher on kitchen table will be warm enough as it wants to be half 
thickened when used. Place mold on ice for three or four hours, re- 
move as directed, and serve on platter garnished with parsley, let- 
tuce, sliced boiled eggs, beets, etc., arranged in any pretty design. 
A Sardine Dressing may be prepared and a spoonful placed ujxjn 
each slice when served at table, or it may be served without any 
dressing. Or With Oysters, slightly cook them, or sprinkle with 
salt and pepper and let stand an hour or two, drain and make same 
way, adding celery cut in quarter inch dice as a border to the layer 
of oysters, and using the oyster liquor with what water is necessary 
in place of the water for the Jellied Dressing. Celery Vinegar makes 
the salad nicer than plain vinegar. WitJi Lobster, make same as 
fish and the coral and different parts can be arranged in the jelly to 
make a very handsome dish. With Game, Poultry, or Meat, pre- 
pare as with fi-sh, using cold, cooked ingredients and serving at 
table with any dressing wished or without any. A harmoniously 
flavored vinegar may be used in the dressing, for any of the differ- 
ent salads instead of the plain if wished. With Fruit, make same, 
using the Jellied Orange Dressing with high-colored fruit, as cur- 
rants, raspberries, cherries, strawberries, blackberries, etc., and Avith 
slices of peaches, pears, apples, etc., the Jellied Raspberry Dressing, 
serving former with or without the Orange Dressing (liquid) and 
the latter with or without the Raspberry Dressing. With Vege- 
tables prepare in same manner, using cold cooked vegetables with 
the Jellied Bouillon Dressing, and where pease, dice of carrots, white 
turnips, beets, etc., are arranged tastefully the effect is very pleasing, 
or use any of the green vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, etc., or 
either kind can be used ^vith fish, meat or poultry and be found an 
addition ; and in fact many combinations can be made with differ- 
ent kinds of fruit, different kinds of meat, etc. It is not at all diffi- 
cult to make only somewhat tedious, but one will be fully repaid 
for all the trouble in both the taste and beauty of the salad. 

Herring Salad. — Skin two herring, soak overnight, take out 
bones and cut in quarter-inch dice, or very small pieces ; take seven 
medium-sized cold boiled potatoes, slice and cut as above, making 
two or three times as much cut potato as herring; then cut three 
red beets that have been cooked, peeled and placed in vinegar over- 
night, in dice as above and chop fine one small raw onion, mix 
lightly and to this add two or three boiled eggs, cutting the whites 
and yolks separatel3^ Before mixing reserve in separate dishes 
some of the herring, potatoes, beets and white and yolk of egg with 
which to garnish the salad when ready to serve. Beat together half 
cup cream, quarter teaspoon mustard, saltspoon pepper and tea- 
spoon sugar ; add two or three tablespoons of the beet vinegar and 
pour over the mixture, tossing it lightly together. Put on platter, 



786 SALADS. 

smooth over and then place two-inch rows over it lengthwise of the 
reserved ingredients, arranging the colors so as to make a very pretty 
ornament, and surround with parsley. The width of rows can be 
varied to suit the size of dish. A few sour apples and roasted veal, 
chopped, may be added to salad. Or, prepare the herring as above ; 
take cup each coolied green pease, and string beans, cut in small pieces, 
shelled white beans, cooked soft and dry, boiled red beets cut in dice 
and two cups cut boiled potatoes, as alcove. Place herring in center of 
platter and put vegetables in little mounds around it, arranging col- 
ors nicely, placing between each a few tender lettuce leaves and on 
top of each a slice of hard-boiled egg; also garnish the herring in 
same way Put in a cold place and just before serving pour over 
slowly about half pint any cold salad dressing. A cup each cooked 
salsify and red pickled cabbage may be added, and some mix all 
together and add dressing as in first recipe, reserving some of the 
vegetables to use in little mounds as a garnish. For preparing her- 
ring for frying, or cooking in any way, it is always nice to skin first 
as above. The salad is sometinies dressed with a Syrup Sauce, a 
White Sauce made with water, to which tablespoon each baking 
molasses and vinegar is added, but the latter is especially nice served 
hot with Fried Breaded Herring. 

Lettuce Salad. — Wash the lettuce carefully, using only the in- 
side tender leaves, and wipe with a cloth to remove all grit. It is a 
very delicate vegetable and easily spoilt by careless handling. Tear 
into small pieces or use whole (never cut lettuce), place in salad 
bowl and pour over a dressing made as follows : Take yolks of 
three hard-boiled eggs, and salt and mustard to taste and mash fine ; 
make a paste by adding desertspoon olive oil or melted butter (use 
butter always wlien it is difhcult to get fresh oil) ; mix thoroughly, 
and then dilute by adding gradually cup vinegar. Garnish by slic- 
ing another egg and laying over lettuce. This is sufhcient for about 
three pints lettuce. Or the Bohemian, Foam or French Dressing 
may be used, or simply salt, sugar and vinegar, or sugar and cream. 
Powdered sugar may also be sprinkled over the lettuce before add- 
ing dressing. Some prefer to serve the salad alone and add dress- 
ing at table. Those who like the flavor add a chopped onion. 
Sliced or chopped radishes and cucumbers are also used in lettuce 
salad and adding thin slices of cold meat or flaked fish makes a 
very nice dish for luncheon. Chopped celery and anchovies are 
nice additions to a plain lettuce salad, or add a few tarragon leaves. 
Tarragon has a flavor unlike anything else, and gives to lettuce 
salad that pleasing flavor pefuliar to French salads. If the leaves 
c^mnot be had, use tarragon vinegar instead of plain in the dressing. 
If the lettuce is at all wilted place in very cold water for an hour or 
two. Sliced cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, pickled beets, nastur- 
tiums, radishes and cut vegetable flowers are used for garnishing. 
Cheese is generally served with lettuce salad, and when latter is 



SALADS. 787 

dressed at table, serve small dish grated cheese with it to be 
sprinkled over the lettuce. It is delicious and sometimes crackers or 
thin bread and butter accompany it. Cheese crusts, and Cheese Straws 
are also very palatable with it. Corn- salad Saladis made as above 
using corn-salad instead of lettuce. Currant Salad is made by 
mixing fresh ripe currants with lettuce and the French Dressing. 

Lobster Salad. — Crack the claws of a cooked lobster (see Shell- 
fish) after first disjointing, twist ofl'head, split body in two length- 
wise, pick out meat in bits not too fine, saving coral separate ; tear 
a large head of lettuce into pieces about two-inches square, and 
place on dish, over which lay the lobster, putting the coral around 
the outside. For dressing for meat of a lobster weighing about 
three pounds, beat yolks of three eggs, add four tablespoons salad 
oil, dropping it in very slowly, beating all the time ; then add a lit- 
tle Bait, cayenne pepper, half teaspoon mixed mustard, and two 
tablespoons vinegar. Pour this over the lobster, just before send- 
ing to table. Two bunches crisp celery, cut into small dice, may be 
used instead of the lettuce. Or prepare the meat and celery o/ let- 
tuce as above and pour over it a Mayonnaise, Bavarian or Eggless 
Cream Dressing. Some reserve the green fat, work it into a smooth 
paste, mix this well with yolk of a raw egg and add the mixture to 
the Mayonnaise. When celery is used the lobster meat, moistened 
with a little of the Mayonnaise, and celery maybe arranged in three 
layers with lettuce leaves at bottom, then meat, then celery and fin- 
ish with the meat, pouring remainder of Mayonnaise over as above. 
A few olives may be added if liked. Some reserve pieces of the 
lobster meat to be used in garnishing, and having arranged the salad 
on a dish, place first a row of sliced cucumbers, then the pieces of 
lobster, sliced yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, the coral saved 
from lobster and sliced beets placed alternately, or arranged in 
small separate bunches, so that the colors contrast nicely. Capers, 
olives and small pickled gherkins are also used. The claws, tail and 
head are also used for garnishing. To prepare them, open the shell 
of the tail with a can-opener, without mangling the flesh, split it 
and remove the intestine running through the middle, open the 
claws in same way, and use the meat from all in the salad, rub the 
head with a little oil to brighten the color and place it in center of 
dish ; arrange the salad around it, pour the dressing over, and garn- 
ish with the claws, tail, coral, small lettuce leaves or tufts of celery, 
with the addition of any of above garnishes mentioned. The eggs 
of the hen lobster should be carefully removed from the tail pins 
and sprinkled over the salad after covering with the Mayonnaise, 
which may also be colored with the coral, if latter is not wanted 
for the garnish, or serve in Salad Shells as directed in preface. For 
Cape May Salad make the Aspic Jelly given in Dessert Jellies the 
day before the salad is wanted. Some time, before ready to serve 
melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, stir in one of flour and 



788 SALADS. 

add by degrees a gill stock or cold water ; bring to boiling point 
and boil rapidly two minutes, remove from fire and add tablespoon 
cream, half tablespoon lemon juice, small pinch cayenne and little 
white pepper and salt, with the meat of lobster cut in convenient- 
sized pieces, some add a well-beaten egg ; when well mixed turn out 
to an inch in depth on a plate, make smooth with a knife, and put 
away until perfectly cold ; then divide it into six parts and shape 
each into a cutlet about three inches long. Prepare lettuce as 
above, place in salad bowl and pour the Mayonnaise Dressing over, 
sprinkle with a little white pepper and salt. Chop the aspic jelly 
coarsely and arrange a wall of it around sides of salad bowl, and 
within this place the lobster cutlets in a circle with one of the feelers 
stuck in each, and the head, prepared as above, in the center. Have 
the coral of lobster dried and polnuhnl in a mortar, or rolled fine, 
and sprinkle a little over each cutlet and remainder over the jelly 
and serve. A very handsome dish. To make Canned Lobster Salad, 
take one can of lobster, chopped fine, twelve hard-boiled eggs, also 
chopped fine, mix and pour over a hot Cream Dressing, tossing all 
up lightly with a fork. 

Meat Salad. — Take one quart cold meat of any kind, which 
must be very tender ; cut into thin slices, then into small bits ; place a 
layer in salad bowl, sprinkle with chopped parsley, cover with a 
layer of Italian Dressing, then another layer of. meat, chopped 
parsley and so on till all meat is used. Cold tongue may be used 
instead of meat and Creole Dressing is nice with any meat salad. 
Garnish with parsley and stand in cold place one or two hours be- 
fore serving. A nice Veal Salad is made by cutting cold boiled, 
veal in neat strips, or pieces of even size, mix it with celery or let- 
tuce and pour a Mayonnaise Dressing over. Or any meat may be 
prepared same. For Ham Salad i)ut the meat prepared as above 
on lettuce leaves neatly arranged in bowl, strew a dozen chopped 
capers and a few tarragon leaves over and serve with Eggless Dress- 
ing. A good Beef Salad is made by cutting a pound cold rare roast 
beef and a quarter of a boiled beet into small pieces, mixing both 
lightly together and placing in pyramidal shape on shred lettuce 
leaves in salad bowl and pouring Swiss Dressing over. For a Meat 
and Potato Salad add to one half the quantity of meat in Beef 
Salad a pint cold boiled potatoes cut in thin slices, mix with the 
Bacon Dressing and serve. The flavor of these salads is improved 
by standing an hour or more. For a Miitton and Carrot Salad, 
boil six young carrots till tender, drain, cut in narrow strips and 
arrange neatly in bottom of salad bowl ; cut half pound cold boiled 
mutton into half-inch pieces and put it around the carrots, strew 
over a cut stalk of celei-y and a few tarragon leaves, pour a Cream 
Dressing over and serve. For Ham Salad, cut up small bits boiled 
ham, place in salad bowl with shredded inside leaves of head of let- 
tuce and add a Sour Cream Dressing. Or, With Brussels Sprouts, 



SALADS. 789 

wash a quart sprouts well, boil twenty minutes, drain, plunge into 
cold water, drain again and put in center of platter, with a quarter 
pound finely-chopped ham around and a border of potato salad en- 
circling the whole. Pour a French Dressing over, sprinkle with 
teaspoon herbs and serve. Game Salad is made as any of above 
using any cold cooked game wished or any of them may be molded 
like Gelinola Salad. 

Nasturtium Salad. — Shred nasturtium flowers in small pieces, 
salt and ])epper well and pour a Mayonnaise Dressing over. Or 
mix with the nasturtiums a head of shred lettuce or pint Avater- 
cresses with three chopped hard-boiled eggs and teaspoon sugar. 
Put in dish with two alternate layers of Mayonnaise, or any dress- 
ing liked, and garnish with a wreath of nasturtium flowers and 
bunch of same in center. 

Onion Salad. — Slice large onions in thin slices and sprinkle 
with sugar; let stand an hour or two, then add the French Dressing, 
or simply salt, pepper and vinegar. Or With Tomatoes add alter- 
nate layers of sliced tomatoes, sprinkling with sugar if wished; 
then finish as above, letting the salad stand an hour or more, after 
dressing is added, before serving. 

Orange Salad. — Do not peel but slice thin two or three sour 
oranges on a dish, remove seeds and pour over them a dressing of 
three tablespoons salad oil, a dust of cayenne pepper, a little salt if 
wished and juice of one lemon, if oranges are too sweet, Avith grated 
rind of an orange. This is a delicious accompaniment for boiled or 
roasted game or poultry. For a more elaborate salad, peel five 
oranges, divide into the natural sections without breaking the pulp 
and place on glass dish ; stone a quarter pound muscatel raisins, 
mix them with two tablespoons sugar and two each orange and 
lemon juice and mingle them with the oranges adding juice of an- 
other orange if not moist enough. Any spice liked may be added, 
but must be added sparingly. Lemon Salad is made as first re- 
cipe, using lemons instead of oranges, and some add a few shredded 
lettuce leaves. For Florida Salad, place in salad bowl alternate 
layers of sliced oranges and bananas ; pour over the Orange Dress- 
ing and put on ice or in cold place three or four hours. Any har- 
monious combination of fruits may be prepared same way, Peaches 
and Pine-apples, Easpherries and Currants or Straicherries and 
Oranges, using either the Orange or Raspberry Dressing, always 
remembering that all Fruit Salads must stand two or three hours 
before serving, to be in their prime. 

Oyster Salad. — Prepare oysters as directed in Shell-fish, using 
the smaller ones, and after draining (do not cook) add to them 
chopped celery, cover with Mayonnaise Dressing and when ver}'' 
cold serve. Or put the liquor, that drains from them over the fire, 



790 ^ALADS. 

adding a little vinegar ; skim and when hot put in the oysters and 
let boil up once to phimp, not cook them ; then skim out oysters 
and cool quickly by plunging into cold water a moment and drain- 
ing, or by setting the plate on ice ; some let them cool in liquor in 
which they were boiled, to which may be added instead of the vine- 
gar a little salt, pepper, butter and blade of mace. When the oysters 
are cold mix lightly with an equal quantity cut celery or shred let- 
tuce, and two pickled cucumbers, cut fine, chopping the oysters 
coarsely, if liked, or leaving them whole. Turn the cooked oyste! 
liquor over, and just before serving stir in a Swiss or Mayonnaise 
Dressing, tossing up lightly with a fork, or add only half the dress- 
ing and after dishing put the remainder over, though most prefer to 
pour on all the dressing. After plumping and draining the oysters 
some lay them for two hours or more in a mixture of three table- 
spoons vinegar, one of oil, half teaspoon salt, quarter as much pep- 
per and ta)>le8poon lemon juice. Some use half as much celery 
as oj^sters, but the quantity may be varied as liked. For Phila- 
delphia Salad, take three dozeir fresh oysters, two heads celery 
with part of their green tops and about half as much tender white 
cabbage ; wash celery and cabbage, put them into boiling salted 
water, let boil five minutes, pour off water, drain, and chop them 
fine. Prepare the oysters as directed above. AVhen to be served, 
season chopped celery and cabbage slightly with oil and vinegar; 
spread part of it in a dish, or in individual dishes, place the oysters 
in it side b}^ side and the rest of the celery on top of them ; smooth 
the top a little and pour a Mayonnaise Dressing over. Pickled or 
minced oysters do very well for this. White celery leaves, oysters, 
crabs, cut vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, sliced lemons, etc., are used 
for garnishing. A combination salad known as Brussels Salad is 
made of lobsters, oysters, chicken and tongue mixed with celery. 

Pickle Salad. — To one quart cabbage, chopped fine, take half 
piut pickled green tomatoes, gill pickled green peppers, and half 
pint onions, all chopped fine and mixed together. Strain off and 
throw away all juice and add tablespoon mixed mustard, half table- 
spoon ground ginger, quarter tablespoon each cinnamon and cloves, 
quarter ounce celery seed, quarter pound brown sugar, half table- 
spjon salt and pint vinegar. Boil slowly ten minutes and pour 
over the cabbage. Good at the end of a week. When ready to 
serve pour over a gill of Potato Dressing or any dressing preferred. 
Instead of above mixture any chopped pickle may be used. 

Potato Salad. — This salad may be prepared with cooked pota- 
toes, either cold or hot, though many cooks difler on this point 
some maintaining that the potatoes should always be hot, while 
others meet with most gratifying success in using them cold. It is 
ch..med that a salad made from hot potatoes will keep nicely three 
or four days, while that from the cold vegetable will soon turn dark. 



SALADS. 791 

For a plain salad either chop the potatoes or slice thinly as prefer- 
red, add a small onion, chopped or sliced, to each pint potato, ar- 
range them on dish without breaking slices and serve with a good 
salad dressing poured over, or the dressing is nice added in alter- 
nate layers with the potato. Some grate the onion over the potato, 
which may be cut in strips if preferred ; or omit the onion and serve 
with a French Dressing with the addition of celery salt. 8ome 
add a few blanched and quartered almonds and hickory-nut meats. 
Or sliced lemon or anchovies may be added. Those who are fond 
of onions may use one-third onion to two-thirds potatoes and cover 
with a Mayonnaise Dressing. Chopped lettuce with the onions im- 
proves the salad. When the onions are not used, chopped parsley 
is a nice addition, and it may also be used with the onions. Some 
like bits of fried salt pork mixed with the potatoes. An excellent 
salad is made by mixing a quart potatoes, pared and cut in thin 
slices while hot, with two tablespoons each grated onion and chop- 
ped parsley, four of chopped beet, and enough of any preferred 
dresssing to make moist; the Sardine Dressing is very nice for this. 
The salad is better if vegetables are mixed and let stand two or three 
hours before adding dressing, keeping in a cool place. The beet 
may be omitted if not liked, also the onions and parsley, and chop- 
ped celery used instead, either raw or cooked. Or take two cups 
boiled potatoes, cup cucumber pickles, a large onion, and two or 
three hard boiled eggs, all chopped, mix and serve with any dress- 
ing liked. Or cut six cold boiled potatoes into dice ; put a heap- 
ing tablespoon butter in saucepan and when brown pour over and 
mix lightly through the potatoes, adding one or two stalks of celery 
cut small. Serve with Cream Dressing. Or boil four large Irish 
potatoes, peel and mash smooth ; mince two onions, and add to the 
potato, make a dressing of the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, one 
small teacup of vinegar, teaspoon white pepper, two of salt, one 
tablespoon each celery seed, prepared mustard and melted butter 
and two of sugar; mix well with the potato, and garnish with slices 
of egg and celery or lettuce. Or With Beets, use an equal amount 
potatoes and beets chopping and slicing both and covering with an 
Eggless Cream Dressing, This dressing is also nice for simple Beet 
Salad, served either warm or cold. With Cabbage, chop potatoes 
and add a half head of cabbage sliced fine or chopped. Better if 
mixed two hours before using. Chives are very nice in potato salad, 
and are excellent in all vegetable salads. More vinegar is required 
in dressing for potato salad than any other and more dressing must 
be used as the potato absorbs more liquid than cabbage or lettuce. 
In other salads the proportion is about one part vinegar to four of 
oil, but for potatoes an equal quantity of each is generally used, 
never less than three tablespoons vinegar to four of oil, and for a 
pint of potatoes some use a half cup vinegar to one tablespoon oil. 
For Japanese Salad, take two-thirds sliced boiled potatoes and one- 



792 SALADS. 

third cold boiled mussels or oysters, adding any finely-chopped 
herbs wished, and simply a dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, 
or any dressing may be used and when wished extra nice add a 
layer of sliced truffles over the top. Let stand two or three hours 
in a cool place, then serve. 

Russian Salad. — Use white turnips, carrots, beets, string beans 
or pease, fresh or canned. Cut turnips and carrots crosswise in inch 
slices, and with tin tube, small-sized apple corer will do, cut in lit- 
tle cylinders, and cook in separate saucepans in salted boiling Avater 
till tender ; drain, and place in cold water till ready to use. Cook 
the beans, beets and pease as in recipes given in Vegetables, and 
then drain and finish as above ; when canned pease and beans are 
used merely drain them. To serve, place spoonfuls of each kind on 
a platter, tastefully arranging the colors, and pour over enough 
French Dressing to moisten nicely. 

Salmon Salad. — To make from fresh salmon, broil two salmon 
steaks, or take cold boiled salmon, break into flakes, or cut ni two- 
inch pieces and add little salt, pepper and two tablespoons lemon 
juice or vinegar, some add a little chopped onion, parsley and salad 
oil, and let stand from one to three hours. Then half fill a salad 
bowl with lettuce, put in the prepared fish and garnish with hard- 
boiled eggs, stoned olives and a few spiced 03^sters. Or place the 
prepared salmon in a circle on the lettuce leaves, pour a Mayon- 
naise Dressing in center and sprinkle capers over the whole. Some 
season the lettuce with Italian Dressing before dishing. If salmon 
is boiled purposely for salad it can be made into neater slices by 
cutting before cooking, then put in Avire basket and set in warm 
water to which a little vinegar and salt has been added, bring to a 
boil and simmer gently until tender. Pike, blue-fish and flounders 
make nice salads prepared same way. For Canned Salmon Salady 
put three stalks celery, cut, in salad bowl, arrange neatly over it a 
half pound canned salmon, turn a Mayonnaise'Dressing over, garn- 
ish and serve. Or arrange the salad on a cup chopped cabbage, 
spread in a dish, and pour over a mixture of teaspoon each salt, 
sugar, butter, and mustard and half cup vinegar, or the Eggless 
Cream Dressing is especially delicious for salmon. For another 
nice salad, season a quart cooked salmon with teaspoon salt, one- 
third teaspoon pepper, three tablespoons oil, one ofvinegar.and two 
of lemon juice ; let stand on ice at least two hours. Arrange the 
salmon in center of dish with cooked asparagus points, drained and 
cooled, around it and cover the fish with a cup Mayonnaise Dress- 
ing. Garnish with points of lemon. Cooked green pease may be 
used instead of asparagus. Or make a dressing of yolks of three 
eggs, half cup each cream, and vinegar, two teaspoons brown sugar, 
salt, pepper, and celery seed to taste ; boil thick like custard, and 
pour over the salmon. Another way of preparing is to set a caa 



SALADS. 793 

salmon in kettle of boiling water, and boil twenty minutes ; take 
out of can and put in deep dish, pour off juice or oil, put a few cloves 
in and around it, sprinkle salt and pepper over, cover with cold 
vinegar, and let stand a day ; then take it from vinegar and lay on 
platter. Prepare a dressing as follows : Beat yolks of two eggs 
boiled hard and mashed fine as possible ; add gradually tablespoon 
mustard, three of melted butter, or the best salad oil, a little salt 
and pepper (either black or cayenne), and vinegar to taste. Beat 
mixture a long time and some like addition of lemon juice and a 
little brown sugar; cover the salmon thickly with a part of the 
dressing, tear up very small the crisp inside leaves of lettuce, add 
them with remainder of mixture, and two or three large pieces of 
lettuce placed around the salmon, and serve. Pickled beets, sliced 
or cut in stars or other fancy shapes make a pretty garnish with 
sliced hard-boiled eggs, and slices of lemon are always appropriate, 
either alone or arranged alternately with the slices of beets. Salmon 
salad is nice served in Salad Shells. 

Sardine Salad. — Wash the oil from six sardines, remove skin 
and bone and squeeze a little lemon juice over them, put a layer of 
lettuce leaves in salad bowl-and over them the fish with two chop- 
ped, hard-boiled eggs scattered over and serve with Sardine Dress- 
ing. Or arrange sliced cucumber pickles and sliced hard-boiled 
eggs with the fish around the center of lettuce leaves and 
serve same. Or first place any kind of cooked fish on a bed of 
crisp lettuce and cover with the Sardine Dressing ; split six sardines, 
remove bones and arrange them over the fish and dressing so that 
the ends meet in center of dish. Enrich the whole with thin slices 
of lemon and garnish with parsley or lettuce ; or With Tomatoes, to 
one box sardines, take two or three large ripe tomatoes, sliced, and 
two medium-sized onions, cut fine ; arrange in salad bowl and sea- 
son with teaspoon each salt and Worcestershire Sauce, two table- 
spoons sugar, a little pepper, half cup vinegar and add chow-chow 
to taste. Toss up lightly and when very cold, serve. This is de- 
licious. The Creole Dressing is also nice or any dressing may be used. 
Sardines used as described in Gelinola Salad make an ornamental 
as well as an appetizing salad. 

Scallop Salad- — Soak twenty-five scallops in salt Avater half an 
hour ; rinse them in cold water, and boil twenty minutes ; drain, cut 
them in thin slices, mix with an equal quantity sliced celery, cover 
with Mayonnaise Dressing, garnish and serve. 

Shrimp Salad. — When buying canned shrimps select those 
labeled simply shrimps, not potted shrimps, as the latter are chop- 
ped, and are not so nice for salad as the whole ones, even when they 
are to be chopped in preparing. For a plain salad take one and 
one-third bunches celery and one can shrimps ; cut celery in fine 
■nieces and wash ; halve or chop the shrimps, or pick them in pieces 



794 SALADS. 

as preferred, uiix, sprinkle Avith a little salt and pour a Mayonnaise 
Dressing over. Shred lettuce ma}^ be used instead of celery. If to 
be served whole take the shrimps carefully from the bag in which 
they are put into can, remove all bits of shell or black specks, tak- 
ing care not to break their form, pile them high on a bed of shred 
lettuce or cut celery in salad bowl, pour Bavarian Dressing over 
and serve garnished with border of lettuce leaves or celery ^^ops, 
with a tuft in center ; or serve in the Salad Shells. Should be mixed 
just before serving or the fine appearance of the shrimp will be 
spoiled. Before mixing some shake the shrimps in a bowl with two 
tablespoons each oil and vinegar, to make them look shining and 
moist, and then put Mayonnaise on in strips lengthwise in center of 
each fish, but not covering them. When fresh shrimps are used, 
boil twenty-five minutes, or until they change color, putting them 
in wire basket, if one is at hand; open and throw away shells, and 
make the salad as above. Or put two or three sliced tomatoes on a 
layer of lettuce leaves in salad bowl, lay the shrimps on these and 
pour Red Mayonnaise Dressing over all. Shrimps are nice molded 
as in Gelinola Salad. Some add salt, a little lemon thyme, mint 
and a bay leaf to water in which shrimps are boiled. 

Sioeet-bread Salad. — Boil a calf's sweet-bread until tender 
and pick it into small pieces ; shred two heads lettuce, and put 
in salad bowl alternate layers of lettuce, sweet-bread and Swiss 
Dressing with whites of hard-boiled eggs sliced on top. 

Tomato Salad. — Take skin, juice, and seeds from nice, fresh 
tomatoes, chop what remains with celery, and add the French 
Dressing. Or arrange red and yellow sliced tomatoes alternately in 
glass dish on a bed of lettuce, pour over Cream Dressing, and dust 
a little pepper on top. Or sprinkle a teaspoon chopped tarragon 
over three sliced tomatoes, with a little chopped onion if liked, and 
cover with a Cream or Mayonnaise Dressing; or omit the tarragon 
and onion and serve a teaspoon Mayonnaise Dressing spread on 
each slice, neatly arranging on flat dish. May be 
^ garnished with a delicate border of parsley, Avitli a 
___^^^___ ^ few sprigs laid between the sliced tomatoes. Somo 
Tomato sa;ad. dip thc tomato into a mixture of three tablespoons 

vinegar to one of oil, pepper and salt ; then drain well and mix them 
in the Mayonnaise Dressing. For a Cucitinher and Tomato Salad., 
peel and slice a five-inch cucumber into very thin slices ; put them 
in b'^wl with half teaspoon salt, and two tablespoons vinegar and 
set aside. Scald and skin one large or two small tomatoes and put 
them in cold water a few minutes to cool ; line salad bowl with let- 
tuce, drain cucumbers from the pickle and put them in bowl; wipe 
tomatoes and cut into slices ; put them on top of the cucumber, 
pour a salad dressing over it, and serve. For Creole Salad, mix 
together equal quantities boiled onion, boiled potato and stewed to- 
mato, add a little Creole Dressing and serve warm. 




SALADS. 795 

Turnip Salad. — Peel and slice three or four turnips very thin 
and soak overnight ; next morning change the water and soak three 
or four hours longer ; then cut up very fine and dress as Cold Slaw, 
adding celery salt or seed, if liked, or pour over a French Dressing. 
A nice salad is made oi 'Turnip Tops after they begin to sprout in 
the cellar, and some put them in a dark warm cellar for this pur- 
pose. When sprouts are three or four inches long cut them off ; 
pick leaves from stems, and pour hot water over them ; let remain a 
moment, then plunge into cold water ; place sprouts in colander to 
drain and send to table with Bacon Dressing poured over. 

Vegetable Salad. — Take any cold vegetables left from a meal, 
such as potatoes, pease, string beans, shell beans, turnips, carrots, 
beets, etc., chill them on ice, cut the larger ones with vegetable-cutter, 
arrange on dish, cover with Mayonnaise Dressing or any preferred 
and serve. Or cut in dice six boiled potatoes, a small beet, half a 
small carrot and half turnip ; mix all thoroughly, sprinkle with 
teaspoon salt, unless vegetables were salted in cooking and mix 
with a Lactiola Dressing. For Red Vegetable Salad take one pint 
each cold boiled potatoes and beets, a pint uncooked red cabbage, 
six tablespoons of oil, eight of red vinegar (the pickle from the 
beets) two teaspoons salt or as above, and half teaspoon pepper. 
Cut the potato in thin slices, the beets fine, and slice the cabbage as 
thin as possible, mix all together, let stand in cold place one hour 
and then serve with the French Dressing lightly mixed through. 
Red cabbage and celery may be used together. For a Boston Salad., 
arrange as many different kinds of vegetables as possible on a round 
plate, wheel fashion, each spoke being composed of one kind of 
vegetables, which may be repeated in regular order, with naif a 
hard-boiled egg, cut crosswise, representing the hub, and the dress- 
ing encircling it for the rim. When only five ingredients are used, 
arrange in form of a star or as fancy dictates. 

Water- Cress Salad. — Pick over carefully, removing leaves, root 
fibres and all large stems ; wash, drain and place in salad bowl, chop 
a young onion fine and strew over, cover with a French Dressing 
and serve. Some cut the cress into inch pieces, mix the onion and 
dressing with it and serve in individual dishes. Dandelion Salad 
is made same, letting the dandelions stand in water overnight, add- 
ing two minced onions to two quarts ; or first cook the dandelions 
as for greens, and then when cold, cover with any dressing liked. 
For a Hop Salad, gather hop sprouts before the heads develop, soak 
half an hour in slightly salted water, drain, boil ten minutes, plunge 
into cold water and serve with a French Dressing. May be served 
either hot or cold. If to be served hot reheat after draining from 
the cold water. For a nice garnish for any vegetable salad, cut a 
boiled beet into round slices and place around the dish, each slice 
overlapping another. At each corne" place an olive with an anchovy 
twisted around each. 



796 SALADS. 

Cold Slaw. — Slice cabbage very fine, season with salt, pepper, 
and a little sugar ; pour over vinegar and mix thoroughly. It is 
nice served in the center of a platter with fried oysters around it. 
Or cover the seasoned cabbage with a Potato Dressing. Or | for 
Whip2)ed Cream Slav), chop cabbage fine and dress as above, then 
cover with plenty whipped cream, sweetened ; it is nicer to first 
place slaw in the individual dishes and then cover about an inch 
deep with the whipped cream. Or for a Cream, Dressing, take two 
tablespoons whipped cream and sugar, and four of vinegar ; beat 
well and pour over cabbage, previously cut very fine and seasoned. 

Cream Slaw. — Put half pint vinegar, tablespoon each sugar 
and butter in saucepan. When hot add half pint sour cream, pre- 
viously mixed with one egg and half teaspoon flour ; let boil and 
pour over two quarts cabbage cut fine and seasoned with half pep- 
per and salt and a teaspoon ground mustard. Serve hot. 

Jelly Border for Salad. — Pour enough liquid Aspic Jelly in 
crown mold to make a layer half an inch deep ; when hard arrange 
on the jelly dainty shapes of cooked carrot and beet, cut with vege- 
table-cutter, and white of hard-boiled eggs in rings ; add 
carefully two tablespoons more of the jelly, having 
kept it warm by placing in pan of hot water. When 
hardened, fill with remainder of jelly and set away until 
^^^_^^^^ ready to serve. Wrap a towel wet in warm water 
~^^7r^^^ around the mold, turn the jelly out very carefully 
and fill center with any nice salad. Boned Fowl or Marbled Veal 
can also be served in the center. 

Kennebec Butter. — This is one of the nicest preparations to 
use in salad dressings, adding oil, vinegar and yolks of eggs as for 
Mayonnaise. To make take equal quantities chervil, tarragon, 
chives and pepper-grass, about a quart in all, add a little water and 
scald a minute or two, then drain very dry. Pound in bowl two each 
hard-boiled eggs, anchovies and small pickled cucumbers and a 
tablespoon capers, without any vinegar; add the herbs, a small 
clove of garlic and salt and white pepper to taste, with a pinch of 
cayenne ; rub all through a puree sieve and mix well with it three- 
quarters of a pint best butter and tablespoon tarragon vinegar ; if 
wanted a brighter green add a little Spinach or Parsley Coloring 
(page 180). Some add a tablespoon or two of oil. For a less 
piquant butter known as Paris Butter, omit the eggs, anchovies, 
cucumbers and capers and use half pint more butter. 

Fringed Celery. — Cut stalks into two-inch pieces ; stick several 
coarse needles into top of a cork ; draw half of each piece of celery 
through the needle several times. When all the fibrous parts are 
separated, lay the celery in cold place to curl and crisp, and use as 
a garnish for salads, meats, chicken, etc. 




SHELL-FISH. 797 



SHELL-FISH. 



To thoroughly enjoy and appreciate shell-fish one must live on 
tlie coast : and yet transportation has been so far perfected that they 
are found quite fresh in almost every place. Of course the canned goods 
are always obtainal^le. The oyster is more used than any of the others 
and there is not a lover of them who does not heartily sympathize with 
the boy who wanted to spell August "0-r-g-u-s-t," in order to bring 
it into the list of the months which contain an "r" in all of which 
oysters are in season. The delicious bivalves furnish an important, 
and, in most localities, a not expensive article of food; and the ease 
with which they are prepared for table, and great variety of ways in 
which they may be cooked and served, make them a great favorite 
with housekeepers. To judge whether clams and oysters are fresh 
insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife 
they are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly or not at all they are 
dying or dead ; or another test is that when fresh, the shell is firmly 
closed ; if open the oyster is dead and unfit for use. Oysters in the 
shell may be kept in a cool cellar, and occasionally sprinkled with 
salt water. The small-shelled variety have the finest flavor. For 
the freshness of canned oysters it is necessary to trust the dealer, 
but never buy cans the sides of which are swollen. In preparing 
them for cooking or for table, carefully remove all hits of shell. 
When cooking, some do not skim at all, others only slightly, claim- 
ing that a great deal of the rich flavor is lost by so doing ; and with 
good fresh oysters, and none other should be used, it is not neces- 
sary. Never salt oysters for soups or stews till just before removing 
them from the fire, oi- they will shrivel up and be hard, and add but- 



798 SHELL-FISH. 



ter at same time as too much cooking makes butter oily. Roasting 
in shell best preserves natural flavor. Always sej've immediately 
after cooking^ no matter what method is used and do not cook long, 
never boiling more than a minute or two. This is also true of 
lobsters, etc., as long cooking toughens the meat. In handling 
oysters the wire oyster fork is nice as the short tines hold the oyster 

at the end of the fork, instead of allowing 
the tines to slip through and project be- 



05 

Wire oytser Fork. youd thc oystcr, As to uutritivc qualities 

oysters rank much below meats, and it is even questioned whether 
they contain the phosphorus, or brain-food, which has been credited 
to them in company with the finny tribe in general. But, when 
properly cooked, they are easy of digestion, and very proper food 
for persons whose occupation is sedentary, and whose duties do not 
call for heavy muscular exertion. Even for invalids, they are nu- 
tritious and wholesome, when delicately prepared. For varieties, 
etc., of shell-fish see Marketing and to dress lobsters, terrapins, etc., 
for the different dishes given, see Cutting and Curing Meats. To 
open oysters, wash the shells and put on hot coals or upon top of a 
hot stove, or bake in a hot oven ; or open on 
end with oyster knife or sharp iron, resting 
round part of oyster shell in left hand, using 
the knife with right, or open cans with can 
opener. From the middle of Jaimary to middle of March oysters 
are really in best conditioii and are also less expensive. 




Fried Clams. — Remove from shell large soft-shell clams ; have 
the clams dried in a towel, single-bread them or dip in batter and 
fry (longer than oysters) in swc^et lard or butter. Some prepare for 
cooking by cutting off the black head, splitting the long, tough 
neck and scraping. 

Clam CJwiuder. — Chop fifty clams, peel and slice ten raw pota- 
toes, cut into dice six onions and a half pound fat salt pork, slice 
six tomatoes (if canned use a coffeecu]i full), and have ready a pound 
pilotcrackers ; first fry pork in bottom ofpotand partially cook onions 
in the pork fat. remove, and put plate in pot bottom side up ; then 
put ingredients in layers, with pork at bottom, then onions, po- 
tatoes, tomatoes, clams and crackers, season with pepper and salt, 



SHELL-FISH. 799 



pour over this the liquor from clams and repeat the process, adding 
chopped parsley to taste. Cover with water and boil from half to 
three quarters of an hour. Some prefer to put the clams in whole, 
and the potatoes are often parboiled or cold cooked ones may be 
used. The tomatoes may be omitted and bread-crumbs used in- 
stead of crackers. Half oysters and half clams may be used, add- 
ing the liquor from both, or a third each fish, oysters and clams. 
Chowder can be made of either hard or soft-shell clams. 

Clam Pie. — Take three pints either hard or soft-shell clams (if 
large, chop slightly), put in saucepan and bring to boil in their 
liquor, adding a little water if needed ; have ready four medium- 
sized potatoes, boiled till clone and cut in small squares ; make a 
nice pie paste with which line medium-sized pudding dish halfway 
down sides ; turn small cup bottom up in middle of dish to keep up 
top crust ; put in first a layer of clams, then a few potatoes and 
season with bits of butter, a little salt and pepper, and dredge with 
flour ; add another layer of clams, and so on till dish is filled, add- 
ing juice of clams, and a little water if necessary (there should be 
about as much liquid as for chicken-pie). Cover with top crust, 
cut slits for steam to escape, and bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Clam Stew. — Take half peck hard-shell clams, wash shells 
clean, and put in kettle with about a cup water ; steam until shells 
open, Avhen take out of shell, strain juice, and return it with clams 
to fire ; after they come to a boil, add pint milk or water, piece of 
butter size of egg, three crackers rolled fine, pepper, and salt if any 
is needed. Boil up once and serve hot. Nice poured over toast. 
Some use only the soft part of clams and first make a white sauce 
by mixing tablespoon each butter and flour over the fire, adding 
gradually pint hot milk or milk and water, and season with salt 
and pepper ; then put in soft parts of clams, and simmer gently for 
fifteen minutes where they will not burn. For Boiled ClaniSy select 
thin-edged ones. Wash carefully and put in pot over hot fire, with 
very little water, so as to save their juices ; when they open, leave 
juice in pot, remove clams from shells and put clams back in ; add 
butter, pepper, and very little salt, and boil ten minutes. Serve hot. 

Fried Crahs. — Procure soft-shell crabs, alive if possible, as 
shells harden within twenty-four hours after being killed. To pre- 
pare for cooking, lay the crab on its back, lift up the apron or flap 
near the back of the shell, take out all spongy and fibrous portions, 
and by lifting the shell at both sides remove same substance from 
the back, cut a semi-circle from the head, including the eyes and 
sand-bags. Wash in cold salted Avater, dry on clean towel, season 
inside and out with salt and pepper and fry light brown in fresh 
butter or lard. Or double-bread them and fry by immersion. Some 
bread them by dipping into milk for first wetting. Serve garnished 
with crisped parsley or sliced lemon. Mayonnaise Sauce is nice 



800 SHELL-FISH. 



with this dish. Broiled Crabs are nice if first dipped in melted 
butter, seasoned with pepper and salt. Some drop them into hot 
water for one minute, then broil. Serve with Drawn Butter or 
Tartare Sauce. 

Deviled Crdhs. — Pick the meat from boiled crabs, cut in fine 
bits and mix with all the creamy white substance and green fat, add 
one-third as much bread-crumbs, two or three chopped hard-boiled 
eggs, and lemon juice ; season with pepper, salt, and butter, and add 
enough cream, stock or water to moisten. Clean shells nicely and 
fill with the mixture, sprinkle over with bread crumbs and small 
bits of butter, and brown in oven. Must be served either very hot 
or perfectly cold. Arrange shells on platter with sprig parsley in 
top of each, and send cream crackers on with them. Lobsters may 
be prepared and served same. Some like the addition of a very lit- 
tle shallot and parsley chopped fine. 

Boiled Lobster. — Put in boiling water, with little salt, and boil 
till cooked through and shell turns red ; rub shell with sweet oil 
after wiping to brighten color. Split body and tail through, crack 
claws and it is ready to serve, but must be cut up fine before eating. 

A dressing made of salt, mustard, 
oil, cayenne pepper and vinegar, 
mixed with the yolk of an egg, is 
usually prepared for it. The white 
of a hard-boiled egg may be minced 
fine and strewn over it. Boiled 
6V«^5 are prepared and served same, 
procuring the hard-shelled, and be- 
Bu.kd Lob.,ur. ii^to careful to remove eyes, soft fins, 

etc., before cooking. The meat is often picked from shell before 
sent to table and served with salt, pepper, lemon juice or vinegar, or 
any good table sauce, or heat it in White Sauce, or with butter,, 
vinegar and a rather high seasoning. 

Broiled Lobster. — Cut tail part of lobster in two, rub a little^ 
sweet (>il over the meat and broil. When done, brush a little butter' 
over it with juice of half a lemon and a very little cayenne. Put 
nieat back in shell and send to table with dish of broiled tomatoes, 
and fresh baked potatoes. Or cut tail in square pieces, cut a few thin 
slices bacon into squares a little larger than the lobster ; place on 
a skewer alternately and broil ; baste as above and send to table on 
bed of water-cresses. 

Deviled Lobster.— Take the meat from boiled lobsters as di- 
rected in Lobster Salad and chop fine, or cut into fine dice, reserv- 
ing the coral. Rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar until 
thin enough to pour easily. Season the lobster meat highly with 
mustard, cayenne, salt, and sharp sauce. Toss up with a fork until 




SHELL-FISH. 801 




mixed, and put in covered saucepan with only enough hot ^yater to 
keep from burning; boil up ouce and stir in prepared coral, add 
♦iblespoon butter and when it reaches boiling point take from fire. 
Do not cook too much or meat will b? tough. May be served hot 
in deep dish or put back in shells, or in baking dish, covered with 
bread-crumbs and bits of butter and browned in oven. If to be 
served in shells, be careful in opening not to break the body or tail 
of shells, which must be washed and dried, rubbed with oil, and if 
two lobsters are used may be put together in form of a boat. Some 
chop a little parsley and shallot with the meat, add a few drops 
essence anchovies, tablespoon vinegar, cayenne pepper and salt, 
and a little Cream or Bechamel Sauce ; boil all well together, add 
beaten yolk of an egg, put in the shells, cover with bread-crumbs 
and bits of butter and brown twenty minutes in oven. Or, boil a 
pint of^ream or milk and stir with it two tablespoons flour and one 

of mustard mixed smooth with 
three tablespoons hot cream ; cook 
two minutes, add meat from two 

j^,,p^^. lobsters with salt, pepper, and 

Si^^^^^^^^^^^^^W pinch cayenne, boil one minute, 
put in shells as above, brown in 

jDeviiSTLS^^!^*^^' oven and serve on long narrow 

platter, with body in center and tails at each end, garnished with 
parsley and sliced lemon. The prepared meat left over is nice re- 
heated and served on slices of toast for breakfast. For Scalloped 
Lohstei\ omit the mustard in last recipe, put the mixture in buttered 
dish or scallop shells and finish as above. White Stock or water 
may be used instead of milk or cream and some prefer to thicken 
with corn-starch. Canned lobster may be used in any of above recipes. 

Roasted Lobster. — When lobster is half cooked, remove from 
water and rub thoroughly with butter, put in heated pan in hot 
oven and baste constantly with butter until it has a fine froth and 
sb*^)! 18 dark brown. Place on dish and serve with melted butter. 

Lobster Croquettes. — Chop meat of a boiled lobster fine with 
quarter as much bread as meat ; add pepper, salt, and mace if liked, 
make into pointed balls with two tablespoons melted butter, single- 
bread them and fry in butter or lard. Serve dry and hot and garn- 
ish with crisp parsley. Delicious entree, or supper dish. 

Lobster Cutlets. — Prepare the cutlets as directed in Cape May 
Salad, single-bread them, taking care to have every part covered, 
place in frying basket and fry in hot fiit till a rich brown — about 
two minutes. Drain, arrange on hot dish with part of a claw in 
each to represent bones in cutlets, and garnish with crisped parsley. 
White or Bechamel Sauce may be served around cutlets if liked. 

Ragout of Lobster. — Cut meat of boiled lobster in small pieces; 
pound spawn to a smooth paste, w'ith two tablespoons butter, salt, 



802 gHELL-FlSH. 




pepper and a little mace. Put a gill water in saucepan, thicken 
with two well-beaten eggs; add the spawn and stir over fire briskly 
ten minutes. Add lobster meat, boil up once and serve very hot. 

Broiled Ousters. — Dry large, selected oysters in a napkin, salt 
and pepper them and broil on a fine folding wire-broiler, well but- 
tered to prevent sticking, turning frequently to keep the juice from 
-wasting. Serve immediately in hot dish with bits of buttei on them. 
Or, dry the oysters in a napkin, dip each in butter previously salted 
and peppered, roll well in sifted cracker-dust or bread-crumbs, let 
lie a few minutes, dip again in melted butter, roll in crumbs and broil 
-over good fire from five to seven minutes, 
not very brown or they will not be so 
juicy, and serve immediately in hot dish 
with butter, pepper and salt, or on nice 
diamond-shaped pieces of toast, with lit- 
tle n^elted butter on each. Y ox Broiled 
Oysters in Shell, select large shells, Folding wire Broi.cr. 

clean with a brush, open, saving juice, and put oysters in boiling 
water for a few minutes ; remove and place each oyster in a half- 
shell, with juice; place on gridiron over brisk fire, and when they 
begin to boil, season with butter, salt and pepper and some add a 
drop of lemon juice. Serve on half-shell. Or, remove from shell 
and heat two dozen oysters in their own liquor, drain and add to 
oysters in pan a lump of butter, little chopped parsley and shallot, 
pepper and salt and scald but do not boil; then put back in shells 
with a few drops lemon juice, cover with bread-crumbs and broil; 
when they boil in shell take from fire and serve at once. Or, open 
oysters, leaving them in their deep shell, taking care not to spill the 
juice, season with small piece butter, a little cayenne,salt, and lemon 
juice if liked ; place on gridiron over brisk fire and broil about threa 
minutes. Serve with bread and butter. 

Creamed Oysters. — Put pint cream in custard kettle with a 
slice of onion and bit of mace and let boil ; add tablespoon flour 
mixed smooth with little cold milk or cream, and salt or pepper to 
taste; have the oysters scalded in their own liquor, skimmed if 
necessary, drain and add them to the boiling, cream. Skim out 
mace and onions and serve very hot on slices of hot buttered toast. 
Some do not scald the oysters before adding to cream and add their 
liquor also. The onion and mace may be omitted. 

Curried Oysters. — Put liquor drained from a quart oysters in 
saucepan, add half cup butter, two tablespoons flour, and one of 
curry-powder, well mixed ; let boil, add oysters and a little salt ; 
boil up once and serve. Or With Onions, open three dozen oysters, 
leaving them in their own liquor; cut one medium-sized onion in, 
small dice, and lightly fry in stewpan with tablespoon butter. When 
done, mix in one teaspoon curry-powder and little flour, add oysters 



SHELL-FISH. 



803 



-with their liquor, and keep stirring over fire until the oysters be- 
come enveloped in a thick sauce, when turn out upon dish and serve 
with boiled rice. 

Deviled Oi/sters.—Wijie oysters dry, lay in a flat dish and cover 
with a mixture of melted butter, cayenne pepper (or pepper sauce), 
and lemon juice. Let them lie in this for ten minutes, turning fre- 
quently ; take out, roll in cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, then 
in crumbs, and fry in hot lard and butter, half and half. 

Fried 0)/sters.—This,next to soup, is the way in which oysters 
are most generally served and we give a number of recipes ; for all of 
them, the oysters must be drained thoroughly in colander and all 
bits of shell removed ; to do which it is sometimes necessary to 
take up each oyster, and some dry on a soft white cloth, although 
it is best to handle them as little as possible as it tends to toughen 
them. They can be breaded in any of the ways given on page 299 
and bread-crumbs may be used, but it is then very necessary that 
they be wiped dry before dipping, but with cracker-dust draining is 
all that is needed. Where one is near a large bakery, it is nicer to 
buy the latter rather than prepare it one's self and is even more 
economical. For Buckeye Fried Oysters, take medium-sized oys- 
ters, prepare as above, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set in cool 
place for ten or fifteen minutes. Then pour them into a pan of finely - 
rolled crackers, add liquor, mix well, and let stand five minutes, add 
a little salt and pepper, mold into small cakes with two or three 
oysters in each, roll in dry cracker-dust until well encrusted, and fry 
in hot lard and butter, or drippings, Serve hot in covered dish. 
Or if large oysters dip each in yolk of eggs, well seasoned and 
beaten, then in corn meal with a little baking powder mixed with 
it, and fry like fritters ; or put in frying basket and place in the hot 
lard ; or take two parts rolled crackers and one part corn meal, aud 
treat as above. For Boston Fried Oysters, when oysters are ready, 
put in hot frying-pan, turn so as to brown on both sides, taking 
away the liquor as fast as it collects. They cook in this way in a 
few moments, and the peculiar flavor of the oyster is well preserved. 
Serve on a hot covered dish, with butter, pepper and salt, or add a 
little cream just before serving, and serve as above on toast. For 
Superior Fried Oysters, take two dozen large oysters prepared as 
above, have cracker-dust seasoned with teaspoon salt ; take one oyster 
at a time, roll in cracker-dust, and lay on a meat board or platter by 
itself until all are so encased, and laid in rows ; let remain fifteen 
minutes, now take oyster first rolled in cracker-dust and dip in 
beaten eggs (yolk and white beaten together), then the second oys- 
ter, and so on until all are dipped, then roll in cracker-dust, follow- 
ing same order as before. Let them remain from half to three-quar- 
ters of an hour. It is important to follow the same order in each 
operation, to give liquor of oyster time to drain out and be ab- 



804 SHELL-FISH. 



sorbed by the cracker-dust ; now heat iu frying-pan one pound oi 
clarified fat or lard ; when the blue smoke arises (which indicates a 
heat of 375 ", the proi>er cooking point), drop into it a peeled po- 
tato or piece of hard bread, which has the effect of preventing the 
fat growing hotter, drop in oysters very lightly, and when a light 
brown turn to brown the other side ; and then skim out into colan- 
der to drain a moment, or lay upon a piece of brown paper, which 
will absorb superfluous grease ; or have dripping-pan lined with 
brown paper, place in that and put in oven. In that way they can 
drain and be kept hot till ready to serve. The time for cooking is 
about three minutes. Serve hot on a hot platter. Fried oysters, to 
be at their best, must be eaten as soon as cooked ; and when it is 
possible, i f a second supply is to be needed, it should be cooked while 
the first is being served and eaten. For reason given above use the 
hands as little as possible ; all the rolling and dipping may be done 
with a fork, without mangling the oyster. Philadelphia Fried 
Oysters are prepared by rolling them in flour, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, dropping them into an equal mixture of lard and salad 
oil made smoking hot in frying-pan, and serving them the instant 
their edges begin to curl. For Gopher Fried Oyster, beat three or 
more eggs, according to number of oysters to be fried, add equal 
bulk of rich cream and season with salt and pepper; dip oysters, 
one by one in this and then roll carefully in either sifted bread or 
cracker-crumbs. Let stand in a cool place till ready to fry, an 
hour or so will not hurt them, fry in "frying-pan or like fritters. 
With Oil, t>eat the yolks of six eggs with three tablespoons salad 
oil and season with teaspoon salt and pinch cayenne, dip in this, 
then roll in cracker-dust and let stand ten minutes, then dip in mix- 
ture, lastly roll in sifted bread-crumbs and fry as above. For Ital- 
ian Fried Oysters, boil three dozen oysters for one minute in their 
own liquor, and drain them ; fry them in two tablespoons butter, one 
of catsup, a little chopped lemon peel and parsley ; drain, place on 
dish, and garnish with fried potatoes and parsley. This is a delic- 
ious delicacy. Or some bread them, seasoning the crumbs with 
finely-chopped parsley, grated lemon rind and nutmeg and a pinch 
cayenne, and fry as Gopher Fried Oysters, seasoning with celerj 
salt just before serving. For Manhatten Fried Oysters, after drain- 
ing, season with salt and pepper, roll in cracker-crumbs or dust and 
cover the bottom of a frying-pan in which a tablespoon or two of 
butter has been made very hot; fry brown, turning as needed and 
serve on dry toast. One of the most ornamental ways of serving 
fried oysters is as follows; cut off top from a brick-shaped loaf of 
bread scraping off the inner crumbs from the top and the remaining 
part of loaf, leaving crust half an inch thick ; place in stove until 
thoroughly heated, then put in the fried oysters, cover with top, tie 
aroimd it ribbon, corresponding with table decorations, place on 
platter and serve, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs of pars- 



SHELL-FISH. 806 



ley. The loaf may be used several times if cared for carefully ; or 
prepare small rolls in same way, cutting them in two lengthwise, 
till, tie, and serve individually. These are also nice filled with any 
salad or chopped meats. Always serve pickles, slaw, grated horse- 
radish, etc., with fried oysters. 

Fricasseed Oj/sters. — Drain liquor from a quart oysters, strain 
pint of it into stewpan and when it boils put in oysters ; when they 
begin to swell add tablespoon flour rubbed smooth with two of but- 
ter and cook until oysters are white and plump, add a gill cream 
with white pepper and salt to taste and serve hot ; some add beaten 
egg and juice of a lemon, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over 
the fricassee, after dishing and just before serving; or omit liquor, 
put drained oysters in^a hot frying-pan with tablespoon butter, then 
finish as above adding an egg or two with the cream. For a richer 
fricassee, parboil or swell fifty fine oysters in their own juice. Re- 
move scum, and place juice and oysters in a hot tureen, cover and 
keep in a warm place. Rub together six tablespoons butter, three 
of flour and a half gill hot cream till a smooth paste ; add this to a 
quart and a half hot cream in stewpan over fire, and stir constantly ; 
season to taste with salt, white pepper, allspice, mace and a little 
nutmeg; stir until mixture begins to thicken, then add the well- 
beaten yolks of six eggs. Strain mixture over oysters, stir well, 
then cover thickly with bread-crumbs, on top of which lay a few bits 
of butter. Place in quick oven until top is of a very rich brown. Serve 
very hot. Some like the addition of a teaspoon chopped parsley, 
and if served in an open dish garnish with squares or rounds of 
fried bread and sprigs of parsley, Or take a slice of raw ham (corned 
and not smoked), soak in boiling water half an hour, cut in very 
small slices and put in saucepanwithtwo-thirdspintveal or chicken 
broth, strained, the liquor from one quart oysters, a small onion 
minced very fine, and a little chopped parsley, sweet marjoram and 
pepper. Let these simmer twenty minutes, boiling rapidly two or 
three minutes. Then skim well and add scant tablespoon corn- 
starch mixed smoothly in one-third cup milk, stir constantly, and 
when it boils add oysters and tablespoon butter ; just let it come to 
a boil, remove oysters to a deeper dish, then beat one egg and add 
to it gradually some of the hot broth, and when cooked stir it into 
the pan ; season with salt and pour all over the oysters. Some 
squeeze over the juice of a lemon. 

Hidden Ousters. — Cut as many thin slices of fat bacon as there 
are oysters, large New York Counts, dust a little cayenne on each 
oyster and wrap a slice of bacon around it, keeping in place with 
wooden toothpicks ; heat a frying-pan, put in bacon and oysters and 
keep over quick fire until bacon is browned on all sides, being care- 
ful not to burn ; take out the toothpicks or not as preferred, and 
serve singly on small squares of toast. Must all be prepared very 
quickly and served very hot. 



806 SHELL-FISH. 



Panned Oysters. — Cut stale bread in thin slices, then round 
them, removing all crust, to. fit patty-pans; toast them, butter, and 
place in pans ; moisten with three or four teaspoons oyster liquor: 
then place on toast a layer of oysters, sprinkle with pepper, and put 
on top small piece butter; place pans in baking pan and put in oven, 
covering with tin lid, or if latter is not large enough, another pan to 
keep in the steam and flavor ; have a quick oven, and when cooked 
seven or eight minutes, until edges curl, remove cover and sprinkle 
with salt; replace cover and cook one minute longer. Serve in the 
patty-pans. Using Paper Cases or Patty Shells look nicer in serv- 
ing, and the latter can be eaten with the oysters. If wanted panned 
in their own juice, select two dozen of the freshest 03^sters, have a 
small pan about an inch deep with a handle ; open oysters into pan 
and add as much more juice. Add tablespocin butter, pinch of salt 
and black pepper, and sprinkle a little cracker-dust on top. Place 
on quick tire, and when oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve 
on toast. Or With Cream, place in stewpan, add some pepper, a 
little mace, two cloves, and four or five tablespoons cream. Set 
over fire until oysters swell. Then pour over toast and add a few 
bits of butter. JPut tablespoon flour Avith liquor from oysters, mix 
smoothly together and bring to a boil. Pour this over the oysters 
and toast, put in very hot oven and brown top a little. A few bread- 
crumbs may be spriiikled on top dish with bits of parsley before 
baking. To pan oysters In the Shell select the largest ones, wash 
both shells perfectly clean, put in baking pan with round side down, 
an.d place in oven. In a ievf minutes the shell will slightly open ; 
then take from fire, remove top shell carefully and retain all juice 
possible. Place on each oyster a piece of butter, sprinkle of salt 
and pepper, and a few bits of toast cut in half-inch squares. Serve 
in shells placed on a folded napkin. 

Pickled Ousters. — Place oysters in saucepan and simmer gently 
in their own liquor about ten minutes. Take them out one by one, 
place in jar, cover, and when cold add a pickle made as follows : 
Measure the oyster liquor, add to it same quantity of vinegar, one 
blade pounded mace, strip of lemon peel and whole cloves and boil 
five minutes. When cold ])our over oysters and cover and tie very 
closely. Or to the liquor from a hundred oysters add a teaspoon 
black pepper, a pod of red pepper broken in bits, two blades of mace, 
teaspoon salt, two dozen cloves, and half pint best vinegar, when hot 
remove scum, add oysters and simmer gently until the edges curl, 
take out and put in small jars with the spice ; then boil the pickle, 
skim, and pour over them. Thin lemon slices may be scattered 
through the jars with oysters. This pickle will be ready for use after 
standing overnight, but may be kept four or five weeks. Keep pickled 
oysters in cool, dark place and when ajar is opened use .all at once, 
or as quickly as possible lest they spoil. Some plump the oysters 
in clear boiling water, then put in cold water to set color and keep 



SHELL-FISH. 807 



them plump; drain, place in jars and pour above pickle over them. 
The pickle is nicer if the liquor is boiled, skimmed and strained be- 
fore adding vinegar, and some boil with it a bit of alum size of fil- 
bert, putting spices in jars with oysters instead of first adding them 
to the pickle. For spiced Oysters, scald one hundred fine large 
oysters in their own liquor ; take out and lay on clean cloth to cool ; 
strain liquor from oysters and add to it as much water as their is 
liquor. Set over fire, and as it boils remove the scum, then add six 
or eight blades of mace, half ounce allspice, half teaspoon blackpep- 
per, six large cloves, a pint and a half vinegar, and a few small 
pickles cut up fine. Boil this three minutes. Put the oysters into 
a stone-ware pot, pour the pickle over them, cover closely, and set in 
a cool place. Will be ready for use next day. 

Raw Oysters. — Procure oysters as nearly of a size as possible, 
and have the shell scrubbed with a brush till free from sand or dirt; 
open as directed in preface, detaching the flat shell, loosen the oyster 
from the round or deep shell, but leave in it, and serve half dozen 
on a plate, with quarter of lemon and a bit of parsley in center. Eat 
with salt, pepper and lemon juice or vinegar. Some season in the 
shell before serving with adust of cayenne and a little lemon juice, 
while others serve only in their own liquor with the dust of cayenne 
and accompanied with quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter. 
In serving them without the shells the most attractive way is in a 
dish of ice, made by freezing water in a tin form shaped like a salad 
bowl, or in a Boat of Ice. Select a large block of ice, of crystal 
clearness ; with a hot flat iron melt a large enough place in the top 
to hold oysters, then chip from sides until shaped like a boat. Keep 
it where it may not melt. The oysters should be well drained, seas- 
oned with pepper and salt, and ])laced in the ice-boat. Just before 
dinner is served, arrange a bed of fresh green geranium -leaves br 
parsley or any green upon a low platter and place the boat upon it, 
propping it up if necessary with a few small lumps of ice hidden 
among the leaves. Twine delicate green vines prettily over the boat 
and arrange a circle of vivid scarlet geraniums upon the platter 
around the base of the boat and place on upper edge halves or quar- 
ters of lemon as a garnish. Two folded napkins may be placed on 
platter to prevent the boat from slipping, then cover as above. This 
is a very elegant manner of serving, much more pleasing in appear- 
ance than the shells. It may be served merely on a square block 
without being chipped. A still more elaborate way is to have in- 
dividual dishes of ice also ; they can be made in same manner, some 
using an ordinary window weight, heated, to hollow them out and 
chipping the outside of the small blocks into eight-sided dishes or 
any shapes wished. A simpler and equally delicious way is to drain 
oysters well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a dish and put 
on ice or in pan of cold water for half an hour before serving, add- 
ing bits of ice on top. Serve with horseradish, Chilli Sauce, slices 



808 SHELL-FISH. 



of lemon, or simply vinegar. Raw oysters are served with brown 
bread and butter as above for luncheon, but more frequently with 
thin slices of toast before soup at dinner. Frozen Oysters are es- 
teemed a great delicacy by some ; leave them where they will freeze, 
then open and serve in the half-shell. 

Scalloped Oysters. — This is another method of cooking oy«ters 
by which most of their fine native flavor may be retained, and Is a 
very satisfactory dish. Butter and bread a baking dish, using only 
the sweetest of bread-crumbs and butter. On tiiis place a layer of 
extra fine oysters, season with salt and pepper, and put in anothe; 
layer of crumbs and another of oysters, and repeat this until the 
dish is full, having the last layer bread-crumbs, butter and season- 
ing ; add oyster liquor with a small dash cayenne pepper over the 
top. Be sure to use plenty of butter, place in a hot oven for thirty 
minutes, baking a rich brown and serve hot. Or take crushed crackers, 
not too fine ; drain liquor from quart of oysters and carefully re- 
move all bits of shell ; butter a deep dish or pan, cover bottom with 
crackers, put in layer of oysters seasoned with salt and pepper and 
bits of butter, allowing about a tablespoon to each layer, then a 
layer of crackers, then oysters, and so on until dish is full, finishing 
with crackers covered with bits of butter ; pour over the oyster- 
liquor, added to one pint boiling water, boiled and slightly skim- 
med, place in a hot oven, bake fifteen minutes, add another pint of 
hot water if needed, or half pint water and half pint of milk, in which 
a small lump of butter has been melted ; bake another half hour, 
and, to prevent browning too much, cover with a tin or sheet-iron 
lid, A mixture of crackers and bread-crumbs may be used when 
more convenient. As amount of liquor in oysters va ries, and th e 
proportion of crackers or bread-crumbs to the oys- i g^ _..^ ^ ^ i ^ 
ters also •varies, the quantity of water must be in- ^ J 
creased or diminished according to judgment and ^ ^g^^ p =-^ 
taste. Some cook only half an hour in all. The YJ^djsii. 
souffle dish is especially nice in which to cook and serve Scalloped 
Oysters or anything which is best served in dish in Avhich it is 
cooked. One can have two inner dishes and so keep one hot in 
oven ready to place in the ornamental receptacle when first one is 
empty, as Scalloped Oysters to be in their prime must he hot. In- 
stead of this dish one can use two ordinary quart baking dishes, 
placing on the Knitted Cover when serving. Cream or milk may 
be added instead of water, to liquor poured 
over the top, and some add with each layer a 
little of the liquid, as in this way it is all 
_ thoroughly moistened ; a little powdered 

ornameotai Receptacle. maco or gratcd uutmeg may be added if liked, 

and it is made richer by also pouring over the top a cup milk in 
which a well-beaten egg has been mixed. Scalloped Clams are pre- 
pared same way, first chopping them if preferred. For Saratoga 




SHELL-FISH. 




S.calloped Oysters, cover bottom of well-buttered baking dish with 
la5^er of crumbs, and moisten with half cup cream or milk, put on 
spoon by spoon, add salt and pepper, and bits of butter ; put in one 
quart of oysters and liquor with more pepper and bits of butter, 
cover thickly with crumbs and on them place more pieces of butter. 
Place in oven and cover — this is very important, as the flavor is 
thereby not allowed to escape — and bake till the juice bubbles up, 
from half to three-quarters of an hour. Remove cover and<t)rown in 
upper part of oven for a few minutes, not long ; or use the salamander 
or a hot shovel. Serve in dish in which it was baked. To serve in Scal- 
lop Shells, drain all the liquor from a quart oysters in stewpan,boil 
and skim and add half pint cream or milk with which two table- 
spoons flour should first be mixed ; boil two minutes, 
add tablespoon butter, salt, pepper, little nutmeg and 
the oysters, and take from fire almost immediately; ^ 

taste, and if needed add more seasoning. Have the s^aiiop sheii. 
shells buttered and sprinkled lightly with crumbs ; nearly fill them 
with the prepared oysters and cover thickly Avith criunbs. Put 
shells in baking pan and bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot on 
large platter garnished with parsley. This quantity will fill a dozen 
shells of ordinary size. Clams may be served same, chopping them 
and stewing a half hour in the cream. Some first fry a chojiped 
onion liglit brown in butter, then add cream, etc., and afier taking 
from fire add well-beaten yolks of eggs and put into shells as above. 
Shells are of tin, granite iron-ware, plated-silver and china. 

Skewered Oysters. — Take metal skewers and place on each a 
half dozen oysters alternately, Avith half dozen thin slices bacon, 
-^ size of oysters. Put skewers between bars of buttered wire 
^^^^^^"^ broiler, broil and serve one skewer to each person. Or 
string on hair-pin shaped wire, first an oyster, then slice of pork, and 
so on until wire is filled ; fasten ends of wire into a long wooden 
handle, and broil before the fire. Serve with the pork, if liked, seas- 
oning slightly with pepper. For another, blanch oysters in two 
waters, and drain. Put in stewpan some chopped onions, mush- 
rooms, and parsley, with butter and little flour ; w.arm oysters in 
the mixture, and stir in yolks of eggs to make it firm enough to 
adhere to oysters. String oysters on silver skewers, about six on 
each, the sauce adhering to oysters and setting around them. Bread 
them and broil. Dish up on napkin. 

Steamed Oysters. — Lay oysters in the shell in patent steamer 
or air-tight vessel, placing the upjjer shell downward so the liquor 
will not run out when they open. Set over a pot of boiling water and 
boil hard for twenty minutes ; if the oysters are open they are done ; 
if not, steam till they do open. Serve at once and eat hot, with salt 
and a bit of butter. Or, wash and drain one quart select oysters, 
put in pan and place in steamer over boiling water, cover and steam 



810 SHELL-FISH. 



till oysters are plump with edges ruffled ; place in heated dish with 
butter, pepper and salt, and serve. 

Stuifed Oysters. — Grate yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, 
mix with them half as much fat salt pork or bacon, season with 
pepper and chopped parsley and add a raw egg to make a paste of 
•mixture. Have ready a dozen of the largest oysters on a napkin, 
insert ^penknife at the edge, split each up and down inside with- 
out making the opening very large, and push in a small teaspoon of 
the prepared force-meat. Double-bread them, using melted butter 
instead of egg, and broil over clear fire. For TruMed Oysters, pre- 
pare a force-meat by chopping and then pounding to a paste the 
breast of a cooked chicken with half as much fat salt pork, raw, add- 
ing a small can of truffles cut to size of pease and quarter pod red 
pepper, finely minced. Prepare and stuff oysters as above, roll 
them in flour, dip in beaten egg, and fry by placing in frying basket 
immersing in hot fat three or four minutes, or until a golden brown. 
Drain, dust lightly with fine salt and serve on diamond-shaped pieces 
of toast, four oysters on each. 

Walled Oysters. — Make a wall one and one-half inches high 
and three-quarters wide of one quart nicely mashed and seasoned 
potatoes, just inside raised edge of platter, glaze it by covering with 
beaten egg and placing in oven for a few minutes. Place the liquor 
from one quart oysters in porcelain kettle, let boil, skim well, then 
add oysters seasoned with salt, boil up once, skim out oysters (milk 
or water can be added to the liquor, then seasoned with butter and 
papper, and served as soup), andadd them to a cream dressing made 
by putting a cup rich cream, butter size of half an egg, and a little 
pepper and teaspoon salt in a pan placed within a vessel of boiling 
water; when hot add two ounces of flour mixed smooth in some 
cream or milk, and let cook till thickened, then place oysters and 
dressing within the potato and serve immediately. Fried oysters 
may be served in same way. Or a more elaborate way is as follows : 
pare and boil five large potatoes and mash through a colander ; add 
third of a cup milk, salt and pepper to taste, tablespoon butter, and 
whites of three eggs, beaten to stiff froth. Have a two-quart Char- 
lotte Russe mold well buttered, and sprinkle bottom and sides with 
bread-crumbs; there must be butter enough to hold the crumbs in 
place. Line mold with a thick even coat of the potato, and let stand 
a few minutes. Put a pint cream and a slice of onion on to boil ; 
mix two heaping tablespoons corn-starch with a little cold milk or 
cream and stir into the boiling cream. Season with salt and pepper 
and cook ten minutes. Bring a quart oysters to a boil in their own 
liquor , skim and drain off all liquor ; take piece of onion from cream, 
add oysters and pour carefully in the prepared mold. Cover with 
remainder of potato, being careful not to put on too much at once, 
as in that case the sauce would be forced to the fop and take care 



SHELL-FISII. 811 



not to leave any openings, or the sauce will run through and spoil 
the dish. Bake half an hour in hot oven. When done, remove from 
oven and let stand a few moments, then place a large platter over 
the mold, turn dish and mold together, and remove the mold very 
carefully. Garnish with parsley. 

0>/ster Chowder. — Fry three slices fat pork in pot and add three 
potatoes and two onions in slices ; boil until nearly done ; soak two 
or three dozen crackers in cold water a few minutes, and put in the 
pot with half a can of oysters and quart milk. Boil together a few 
minutes ; season with salt, pepper and butter. 

Oyster Croquettes. — Scald and chop fine the hard part of oys- 
ters (using the other part and liquor for soup), and add an equal 
weight of mashed potato ; to one pound of this add lump of butter 
size of egg, teaspoon salt, half teaspoon of pepper, and quarter of 
cup cream. Make in small rolls or cakes, single-bread and fry as 
directed in Croquettes. .Some add also half teaspoon mace. 

Ouster Fritters. — Select large plump oysters, drain off liquor, 
strain,' boil, skim, and to each cup add cup milk, two^ or three eggs, 
salt and pepper and flour enough to make rather thick batter ; to 
fry, take an oyster in large spoon, dip into batter and fry in hot fat 
as directed in Fritters. Some beard and others chop the oysters 
and stir them into the batter, for which another rule is two eggs and 
half pint milk for each half pint oysters, with pepper and salt to 
taste and little nutmeg if liked. Or for a pint oysters, sift pint flour 
with level teaspoon salt, add yolk of egg, tablespoon salad oil, quar- 
ter saltspoon pepper ; and use enough strained liquor from oysters 
to make batter thick enough to drop. Beat white of egg to stiff 
froth and mix this and the oysters lightly with batter and drop at 
once in large spoonfuls into frying kettle, half full of smoking hot 
fat. As a rule by the time fritter floats it is done. If there is not 
enough oyster liquor to make batter, add water, and some use two 
eggs instead of one yolk and chop oysters. Serve hot on napkin. 

Oyster Omelet. — Add to a half cup of cream six eggs beaten 
very light, season Avith pepper and salt, and pour into a frying-pan 
Avith tablespoon butter ; drop in a dozen large oysters cut in halves, 
or chopped fine and fry until a light broAvn. Double it over and 
serA'e immediately. Chopped parsley may be added to the omelet, 
if liked, Avhich will be much nicer if Avhites and yolks of eggs are 
beaten separately and the whites stirred in last. 

Oyster Pancakes. — Strain pint liquor, sift together heaping cnp 
flour, icA'el teaspoon salt, heaping teaspoon baking powder; have 
pan or griddle hot, and quickly stir into the flour enough oyster 
liquor to make a thick batter. Fry cakes as fast as possible. 



S12 SHELL-FISH. 



Oyster Patties. — Have ready some Patty Shells, see Pastry, 
and fill with oysters prepared as foUoAvs : Heat'half pint cream to 
boiling, stir in tablespoon flour, made smooth with a little cold milk, 
and season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon rind, pounded mace, 
or any spice liked, with a beaten egg or two if wished. While this 
is cooking l)ring the oysters to a boil in their own liquor, skim 
carefully, then dip out oysters, put them in the hot cream, boil up 
once, and serve immediately in the patty shells. The above quant- 
ity will fill a dozen and a half shells. Some strain the oyster liquor 
and add to the cream with a little more thickening, and the oysters 
may be bearded and cut up if preferred, some even choj^ping them. 
They may aiso be dressed without cream using only their liquor 
Avith a iiiLie butter and thickening and the grated yolk of a hard- 
boiJed egg. with seasoning to taste. Layer or Pyramid Shells may 
be used and with the latter, when adding the tops it is nice to place 
small sprigs of parsley between the shell and the tops. These are 
known as Oyster Vol au- Vents. Or, line patty pans with puff' paste, 
and put foiu'or six oysters in each, according to size, with bits of 
butter and pepper and salt, sprinkle over a little flour and chopped 
hard-boiled eggs, allowing two eggs for six patties, cover with an 
upper crust and bake. Maybe served \x\ the pans, or turned out 
and placed on platter. For Fritter Patties, cni a loaf of stale 
bread in slices an inch thick. With a cutter tvvc inches and a half 
in diameter cut out as many pieces as patties wanted, and with an 
inch and a half cutter, press in center half through each piece. Put 
pieces in frying basket and plimge into boiling fat for half a minute. 
Take out, drain, and with a knife, remove the centers and take out 
soft bread ; then fill with following mixture ; put two tablespoons 
butter in frying-pan. and when hot, add one of flour. Stir until 
■ smooth and brown, add cup oyster liquor, boil one minute, and stir 
in one pint chopped oysters. Season with salt, pepper, and a little 
lemon juice. When hot, fill the crusts. Veal or any kind of meat 
or fish may be used with any kind of stock for the liquid. 

Oyster Powder. — Beard fresh large oysters and place in vessel 
over fire a few moments to extract their juice ; cool them and chop 
very fine with sifted biscuit or bread-crumbs, mace and finely 
minced lemon peel, then pound in mortar to a paste ; shape into 
thin cakes, place on buttered paper and bake in slow oven until 
quite hard. Take out and pound them to a powder, which put in 
air-tight tin box and keep in dry place. Nice for flavoring fish, 
soups, stews and sauces. 

Oyster Pie. — Line a pudding dish with Puff Paste ; dredge with 
flour, pour in pint oysters, season well with bits of butter, salt and 
pepper, and sprinkle over flour ; pour on some oyster liquor, and 
cover with a crust having an opening iu center to allow steam t® 
escape. Or, line dish half way up with good paste, fill dish with 



SHELL- FISH. 813 

cpieces of stale bread, place a cover of paste over this, and bake 
about twenty minutes in brisk oven ; take off crust, remove bread, 
have ready some oysters prepared as for patties, fill the pie with 
them, replace the crust and serve at once. Some simply make a 
rich oyster stew, put in dish, cover with Puff Paste and bake. Or, 
line dish with a paste, place an extra layer around the edge, and 
bake in a brisk oven ; fill with oysters, season with pepper, salt, and 
tablespoon butter, sprinkle slightly with flour, and cover with a thin 
crust of paste ; bake quickly and when top crust is done, the pie will 
be ready to take up. Serve promptly, as the crust quickly absorbs 
the gravy. Another way is to butter a large dish, and spread a rich 
paste over the sides and around the edge, but not on the bottom ; 
drain off part of liquor from oysters, put them in pan, and season 
with pepper, salt, spice and butter; have ready yolks of three hard- 
boiled eggs chopped fine, and grated bread-cruml3S ; pour the oysters 
with enough of their liquor to moi-sten well, into the dish with the 
paste, strew over them the chopped eggs and grated bread, cover with 
the paste and bake in quick oven. Nice also, with gill of cream added, 
and a little flour. For a Chicken and Oi/ster Fie, parboil a chicken, 
cut up and place in baking dish, season and cover with a layer of 
oysters, season them with butter, pepper and salt, put t\vo hard-boiled 
eggs, cut in slices, with piece of butter size of egg in center, sift 
flour over the whole, add a half pint milk, cover with the paste and 
bake three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven. 

Oyster Boll. — Cut a round piece, say six inches across, from 
top of well-baked round loaf of bread, remove inside from loaf, leav- 
ing crust half an inch thick ; make a rich oyster stew, and put in 
the loaf first a layer of it, then of the bread-crumbs, then oysters, 
and so on ; place cover over the top, glaze loaf with beaten yolk of 
jsn egg, and place in oven a few moments. Serve very hot. Or put 
in all of the oysters with layer of crumbs over the top, then finish as 
above. Or after preparing the loaf as above, break up crumbs very 
fine, and dry them slowly in an oven ; then quickly fry three cups 
of them in two tablesj^oons butter, stirring all the time. As soon as 
they begin to look golden and are crisp they are done. Put quart 
cream on to heat, and when it boils stir in three tablespoons of 
flour, mixed with cup cold milk. Cook ten minutes, season well 
with salt and pepper ; put a layer of this in the loaf, then a layer of 
oysters, which dredge well with salt and pepper ; then another layer 
of sauce and one of fried crumbs. Continue this until the loaf is 
hearly full, having the last layer a thick one of crumbs. Three pints 
of oysters are required for this dish, and about three teaspoons of 
•alt and half teaspoon pepper. Bake slowly half an hour. Serve 
oil a fringed napkin with a garnish of parsley around the dish. Or 
to serve individually remove a slice fi'om top of small rolls, scoop 
«ut the crumb and fill them with oysters slightly stewed with butter 



814 SHELL-FISH. 



or cream, and some bread-crumbs ; replace tops of loaves and bake 
till crisp. Glaze with beaten egg. 

Oyster Soup. — Pour a quart oysters in colander, rinse by pour- 
ing over them pint cold water, put this in porcelain kettle, add a 
pint boiling water, let boil, skim, season with pepper and piece of 
butter size of large egg ; then add oysters, having .removed all shells 
let boil up once, season with salt and serve. Or With Milk, pour 
quart cold water over quart oysters if solid; if not solid, use pint 
water, drain through a colander into kettle, and when it boils skim ; 
add pepper, then the oysters ; season with butter and salt, then add 
one quart cream or rich new milk brought to boiling point in a tin 
pail set in a pot of boiling water, let boil up and serve at once. Or, 
instead of adding the milk, place it, boihnghot, in tureen, pour the 
soup over it and then serve. A small piece of lemon peel boiled 
with the oyster liquor and taken out before cream is added is con- 
sidered an improvement by some. Or for an individual stew, put 
one dozen fine oysters and their liquor in saucepan with a little water ; 
let boil, season with salt and pepper and pour into a dish in which 
there is a tablespoon butter; add three-quarters pint boiling cream 
and serve at once ; or the cream may be omitted using more water. 
Some do not let it quite boil, thinking it impairs the delicate flavor. 

Oyster Stevj. — Put liquor from oysters on stove, let boil, skim, 
and season with butter and pepper, add oysters, let onh/ come to a 
boil, season with salt and serve. This is pronounced a "royal stew." 
If to be served individually line each bowl with toast, pour in oys- 
ters, add teaspoon lemon juice, sprinkle a few bits of parsley over 
and serve. Or put oysters in stewpan with equal quantities water 
and juice, place over brisk fire, season with white pepper, bring to 
a boil, remove scum, add salt to taste, and pour into bowls with 
teaspoon butter in each. Cover bowls with plates and serve. A 
Cream Stew is made same way, adding cream instead of water. A 
Steio With Celery is made same as third recipe, adding a few stocks 
of celery cut up fine and a little mace. While cooking add teas- 
poon or two powdered cracker-dust and cup beef broth. Bring to a 
boil and pour in bowl lined with toast, well buttered and cut in half- 
diamond shape. Or put in stewpan a pint each best beef broth and 
rich sweet cream ; add four tablespoons choice butter, three teaspoons 
salt, two of white pepper, two of ground mace and the cut celery, or, 
if this is not to be had, teaspoon celery extract ; stir in sifted cracker- 
dust to thicken slightly and when cooked, pour the sauce over fifty 
fine oysters, previously parboiled in their own juice and placed in 
tureen. Serve very hot. 

Oyster Toast. — Chop a dozen and a half good-sized oysters, 
season with white pepper and little nutmeg ; boil a half pint cream, 
put in oysters, let br.'il up tjuce, take from fire, add salt to taste, stir 



SHELL-FISH. 815 



in well-beaten yolks of four eggs and pour over slices of buttered 
toast. Or beard and pound oysters in mortar to a paste, add a lit- 
tle cream, and season with pepper. Spread this on small slices of 
toast, and place for a few minutes in oven to heat. A little finely 
chopped lemon peel may be sprinkled upon the tops. Oyster Cream 
Toast is a nice way of using the liquor when oysters are fried ; heat 
it and make a sauce by mixing over fire tablespoon each butter and 
Hour until they bubble, then gradually stirring in the hot oyster 
liquor, adding if necessary a little boiling water to make a sauce of 
consistency of cream. Boil a minute or two, season with salt and 
white ])epper and pour on slices of toast. For Oyster Sandwiches^ 
cook oysters in a very little water with butter and salt to taste, and 
put a layer of them between two thin slices of dry toast, buttered 
slightly if wished. Oysters prepared in this way make a delicious 
entree to be sent to to the table Avith game of any kind. 

Oyster Vol-au- Vent. — Prepare the large vol-au-vent case as di- 
rected in Pastry. Scald a quart oysters in their own liquor, skim 
well, drain the oysters and return half pint of strained liquor to 
saucepan. Rub tablespoon flour smooth with two of butter and 
pour the hot oyster liquor over it ; season well Avith pepper and salt 
and a very little nutmeg or mace, if liked ; boil up once, add three 
tablespoons cream and the oysters, stir over the fire a minute, fill 
the vol-au-vent case, put on the coyer and serve immediately. Beaten 
eggs may be added if wished richer. 

Oysters and Macaroni. — Lay some stewed macaroni in a deep 
dish and put over it a thick layer of oysters, bearded, and seasoned 
with cayenne pepper and grated lemon rind. Add a small cup 
cream. Strew bread-crumbs over the top, and brown it in a pretty 
quick oven. Serve hot, with Piquant Sauce. Or have ready a third 
of a package macaroni, two dozen oysters, cup milk, an egg, table- 
spoon flour, pepper and salt; 'put the mcicaroni in boiling salted 
water, boil twenty minutes and drain dry; butter the bottom of 
4liree-pint baking dish, put in half the macaroni, strew oysters over 
it, and dot with butter, in small pieces, dredge with salt and pepper 
and cover witli rest of macaroni ; moisten the flour with a little 
milk, beat in the egg, then the rest of milk and oyster liquor, and 
pour in the dish and bake about twenty minutes or until set. Grated 
cheese, sprinkled between the layers of oysters and macaroni is a 
nice addition. If a larger dish is wanted, put in three layers each 
of oysters and macaroni, and some alternate also with layers of 
bread-crumbs, finishing with these on top. Scald the oyster liquor, 
strain, add sufficient milk to moisten the whole well and pour over 
the top, dot with bits of butter and bake about twenty minutes. 
Prepare Chicken and Macaroni sviTae, first steaming chicken tender. 

^ Oysters in the Shell. — Select large shell oysters. Wash shells 
until clean as polished marble. Place in dripping pan with round 



816 



SHELL-FISn. 




0y<tpr ShplU. 



shell down and set in hot oven twenty minutes. Do not remove 
top shell, but cook in both shells, and when done serve on upper 
part of shell instead of lower. Season highly with n, bit of butter^, 
cayenne pepper and teaspoon lemon juice. Or open shells with knife 
as directed, keeping deepest ones for use and 
loosen oysters entirely from shell, or they 
will draw to one side. Dredge fine bread- 
crumbs in shells, replace oysters, cover with 
bread-crumbs, and bake. When lightly 
browned, pour teaspoon melted butter over 
each, moistening crumbs well and dust with 
salt and pinch cayenne. It hastens the brown- 
ing to have the bread dry. Serve four or five on a plate, with a quarter 
of lemon in center. Or melt some butter, season with minced parsley 
and pepper, and when slightly cooled, roll each oyster in it, taking 
care that it drips but little, and lay in the shells. Add to each shell 
a little lemon juice, cover with grated bread-crumbs, place in baking 
pan and bake in quick oven ; just before done, add a little salt. 
Serve in shells. Or, having washed empty shells, place them in paa 
in very hot oven and when hot put in each a bit of but- 
ter and dust of pepper with a large oyster or several 
small ones ; put pan in oven till edges curl, then take 
shells up on hot dish and serve at once. Some turn 
oysters over just before serving. For Boiled Oysters, 
wash shell oysters perfectly clean, place in small wire prymg Basket. 
basket, drop in kettle of boiling water, and when shells open, lift 
basket, and serve. 

Scallops. — As sold in market scallops are generally ready for 
cooking ; if bought in shell, boil and take out the muscular part or 
heart, as that is the only part used in cooking. For Baked Seal- 
lops, boil tender, drain, add some White Sauce and place in buttered 
baking dish, covering the top with a layer of bread-crumbs and 
brown in oven. For Chinese Scallops, boil till tender, drain and 
tear apart in little shreds. Beat three eggs a few minutes; have 
frying-pan hot, with one tablespoon either butter or lard, add eggs, 
then scallops and stir like scrambled eggs. For Fried Scallops, 
wash in cold salted water, drain and dry as oysters; roll in corn- 
meal seasoned with salt and pepper, fry pieces of pork, skim out, 
and fry scallops in the drippings or bread them and fry in smoking 
hot fat like doughnuts. Southern Fried Scallops, roll in flour seas- 
oned with salt and pepper and fry in half lard and half butter, one- 
half inch of dei)th of smoking hot fat in skillet. A nice dish is 
Steived Scallops, wash and cook in boiling water to cover, till ten- 
der, almost five minutes, drain, and dress with a White Sauce made 
by stirring one tablespoon each butter and flour over the fire till 
well mixed and then slowly add one cup boiling water at a time till 
a pint has been used ; seas :>n with salt and pepper and let boil once ; 




SHELL-FISH. 817. 



then add the Scallops, take from the fire and stir in an egg yolk. If 
a Drawn Butter Sauce is wished, add two heaping tablespoons of but- 
ter to the White Sauce. 

Stewed Shrimps.— V\xi a pint shelled shrimps in stewpan with 
three-fourths pint stock, add thickening of butter and flour, season 
with salt, cayenne and nutmeg to taste and simmer gently three 
minutes. Serve garnished with croutons of fried bread. Or stew the 
shrimps in Cream Sauce. For Curried Shrir/ips, put half pound 
butter in stewpan, add three or four sliced onions and fry golden 
brown, then stir in two tablespoons more butter. Have tablespoon 
curry-powder warmed in oven and mix well with onions ; add quart 
shelled shrimps and cook gently five or ten minutes, stirring often, 
taking care not to let it get dry, adding more butter if needed. Salt 
to taste and add a little lemon juice and sugar just before serving. 
Serve boiled rice with it in separate dish. Nice for luncheon.^ For 
Shrimp Pie, to one quart shelled shrimps, add cup each vinegar 
and catsup and two tablespoons butter, season with salt and pepper, 
scald and pour in earthen dish, strew top with bread-crumbs and 
bake twenty minutes. 

Potted Shell-Fish. — Boil fish in salt and water, take all meat 
from claws and tails, put in stewpan with chopped mushrooms or 
truffles, and a little butter, and simmer gently over fire ten minutes, 
or till they appear to be done. When almost done, add well beaten 
yolks of three eggs, wdth teacup cream, and a little well-chopped 
parsley. Stew all together a little while, until consistency of moder- 
ately stiff paste. Pr^ss into pots, and cover with clarified butter. 
Shrimps may be potted as above or put pint shelled shrimps in stew- 
pan with quarter pound clarified or fresh butter, blade pounded 
mace, cayenne to taste, and if liked a little nutmeg ; heat gradually 
but do not boil, and when heated through pour into small pots or 
jars ; when cold cover with melted butter and put away as directed 
in Potted Meats. 

Fricasseed Terrapin.— Cut up the prepared meat frorn a good- 
sized terrapin and place in saucepan, always adding the juice that 
escapes ; let stew a few moments and add a dressing of a gill cream, 
two tablespoons butter, teaspoon flour, powdered yolk of a hard- 
boiled egsf with seasoning of salt, pepper and pinch of cayenne, let 
boil and just before serving add a gill of Tarragon Vinegar. For 
Terrapins in the Shell, to the prepared meat add a tablespoon or 
two of above vinegar, place in the &hell, cover with bits of butter and 
a layer of bread-crumbs or cracker-dust, and bake ten or fifteen 
minntes in oven. For Stewed Terrapin, let the cut up meat lay in 
a marinade of spices, a chopped onion, tablespoon catsup, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, for half an hour or so, then add as much milk 
as wished, and when it boils add four tablespoons butter and two of 
flour rubbed smoothly together ; simmer gently fifteen or twenty 
minutes, then add the Tarragon Vinegar and serve on slices of toast. 



818 SOUPS. 



SOUPS. 



"Once upon a time" soups were only made now and then among 
American housewives, but now most every dinner table has it? 
soup two or three times a week, and many every day, which is as 
it should be, as soup is so nutritious, wholesome, palatable and 
economical that as an article of diet it should rank only second to 
bread, and to make it with flavors properly commingled, is an art 
which all should master; it requires study and practice, but it is 
surprising from what a scant allotment of material a delicate and 
appetizing dish may be produced, and there are enough scraps of 
bones, cooked and uncooked meats, trimmings of meats and vege- 
tables in every household that would otherwise go to waste, to sup- 
ply a nutritious soup for every day in the year, with only a slight 
expense for additional material. The best basis for soup is lean un- 
cooked meat, a pound of meat (with the bone) to a qitavt ofioateVy 
being a generally accepted rule to which may also be added chicken, 
turkey, or mutton bones well broken up ; a mixture of beef, mutton. 
and veal, with a bit of ham bone with meat all cut fine, makes a 
a higher flavored soup than any single meat ; the legs of all meats 
are rich in gelatine, an important constituent of soup, although nof- 
adding any special nutriment to it. It is very essential that the 
meat h^ x^rfecthj fresh as the least taint, or even if a little old, im- 
pairs the flavor of the soilp, and the meat does not want to "hang," 
for the fresher it is the hetter tlie soup ; it may be coarse and tough 
and refuse bits and scraps may be used if fresh., all comprising to 
make a dish of soup which will meet with favor from every one. 
There are two classes of soup, a thin or clear one and a thick or 
rich; the former precedes a heavier course of meats, etc., at dinnez"^ 
and refreshes one, acting as an appetizer for the rest of the mehl 



SOUPS. 819 

while the latter with only a few additional dishes makes a very sat- 
isfactory and easily prepared dinner. Thick soups require more 
seasoning than thin ones and if wanted very delicate may be strained, 
and should be about the consistency of cream while clear soups 
should be perfectly transparent, For all soups a pinch of sugar 
should always be added. The variety of soups is without limit, and 
by adding ''here a little and there a little" one can produce a new 
and distinctive variety whenever wished ; Imt the usual distinction 
given them is seven divisions ; Clear, Fruit, Mixed, Plain, Thick, 
Vegetable and White Soups, and we give a large variety of the dif- 
ferent kinds in the recipes tliat folloAV. The Fruit Souj)S, which are 
largely used abroad, are made of any of the berries or larger fruits 
and are very delicious, served hot in winter or cold (iced) in sum- 
mer ; they are very easily prepared, and when made of the highly 
colored raspberry or strawberr}^ and served, with a spoonful of whip- 
ped cream in each dish, make an appetizing and elegant first course. 



Making Soup. — Always use cold water in making all soups 
that the juice may be more readily extracted from the meat; skim 
well, especially during the first hour, and cook slowly. There is 
great necessity for thorough skimming, and to help the scum rise, 
pour in a little cold water now and then, and as the soup reaches the 
boiling point, skim it off. Use salt at first sparingly, seasoning 
with salt and pepper when done ; allow one quart soup to three or 
four persons. When remnants of cooked meat are used, chop fine, 
crush the bones, add a ham bone or bit of ham or salt pork and all 
ends of roasts and fatty parts, and the brown fat of the roast; make 
the day previous to use, strain, set away overnight without covering, 
skim off fat (which clarify and save for drippings), and it is ready 
to heat and serve. If soup is wished same day it is made and it 
is too greasy add a little cold w^ater when done and the grease can 
be easily removed ; or place on the top pieces of brown paper and 
they will absorb the fat. In using fresh meat throw pieces as cut 
into required quantity of cold w^ater and let stand until juices of meat 
begin to color it, then put on to boil ; in this way juices are more 
readily drawn out.The soup is done when meat is j uiceless.When soup 
is desired for a daily first course, a stock-pot should be especially 
provided, with a faucet to draw off the clear soup to be seasoned and 
flavored for each day ; and all bones and bits of meat left after din- 
ner can be thrown into kettle, also bits of vegetables and bread, and 
gravies that are left from roast meats and cutlets. In this way there 
will be nothing lost, and the soups can be varied by seasonings and 
thickenings of different kin4s. Every two or three days, however, 
the contents of the kettle should be turned out, after all liquid has 



820 SOUPS. 

been drawn off, and kettle washed clean and scalded, for if this is 
not attended to, the soups will soon lose their piquant flavor and be- 
come stale ; there is also for making soups, a soup-kettle ( whickhas a 
double bottom), or a large iron pot with a tight-fitting tin cover 
with a hole size of a large darning-needle in it at one side of handle. 
Keep kettle covered closely ^ that the flavor may not be lost, and sim- 
mer slowly, so that the quantity may not be nnich reduced by evapora- 
tion, but if it has boiled away (which may be the case wlieu the 
meat is to be used for the table), pour in as much hot water as is 
needed, and add vegetables, noodles, or any thickening desired. 
Vegetables should be added just long enough before soup is done to 
allow them to be thoroughly cooked, adding them in the order of 
length of cooking, as after they are done they absorb a portion of 
the soup. An excellent soup for a small family may be made from 
the bones and trimmings cut from a steak before broiling. The 
bones from a rib roast, Avhich are generally cut out and thrown 
away by the butcher, after weighing, should always be ordered sent 
with roast and used in soup. When the standard soup bone is used 
always recook the second day as a less strong but very nice soup is thus 
made. Rice, sago, pearled barley, vermicelli, macaroni, oatmeal, 
bread-crumbs, pease, beans, parsnips, carrots, beets, turnips, garlic, 
shallots, and onions are desii'able additions to meat soups. The 
first three aroused in the proportion of half teacup to three quarts 
soup, wash and soak. Rice requires half to three-quarters of an 
hour, boiling it in soup; sago cocks in fifteen minutes; barley 
should be soaked overnight, or for several hours ; boil by itself in a 
little water till tender ; add to soup just before serving. Vermicelli 
and macaroni should be broken up small, and washed thoroughly 
and boiled in soup half an hour ; or some prefer to cook till tender in 
slightly salted water. If a soup is Avanted without any addition of 
vegetables, but thickened, arrowroot or corn-starch is used in the 
proportion of two rounded teaspoons of latter and two scant teaspoons 
of former to a quart soup ; mix with a little water until smooth, and 
add when soup is nearly done. Wheat flour is also used for thick- 
ening, but it requires three rounded tablespoons to quart. If not thick 
enough to suit the taste more may be added. Brownod Flour does 
not thicken, the starchy property having been removed in the 
browning process. A piece of boiling beef pounded to a pulp, with 
a bit of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually 
incorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. 
When the soup appears to be too thin or too weak, it will be neces- 
sary to remove the cover of the boiler and allow contents to boil 
till some of the watery parts have evaporated ; or some of the thick- 
ening materials above mentioned should be added. 

Seascning Soup. — Seasonings for soups may be varied to suit 
tastes. The simplest may have only pepper and salt, while the 
richest may have a little of every savor, so delicately blended that 



SOUPS. 821 

no one is conspicuous. The best seasoning is that which is made 
up of the smallest quantity from each of many spices. No measure 
can be given, because the good soup maker must be a skillful 
taster. There must be a flavor of salt, that is, the water must not 
be insipid (less is needed if bits of salt meat are used), there must 
be a warm tone from the pepper, but not the taste of pepper ; in 
short the spicing should be delicate rather than profuse . For Brown 
Houps use the dark spices and all kinds of vegetables including car- 
rots, tomatoes, etc. ; a richer flavor is given the soup to brown the 
vegetables and where bacon and ham, which give a flavor liked by 
many are used, the former can be fried in the fat after the meat is 
browned or if latter is not used, simply brown in butter, or use the 
fat from off" soup stock. For White Soups, mace, aromatic seeds, 
white pepper, cream, curry-powder, onion, potato, white turnip, 
celery, parsnip, salsify, rice, macaroni, etc., give the best desired re- 
sults. In general soup many herbs, either fresh or dried are used 
as seasoning, also diff"erent spices such as bay leaves, tarragon, cher- 
vil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, 
essence of anchovy, lemon peel and juice, and orange juice, are all 
used. The latter imparts a finer flavor than the lemon, and the acid is 
much milder. Mushroom Catsup, Harvey's Sauce, Chilli Sauce, and 
seasoning of different catsups and sauces may be combined in 
various proportions in an almost endless variety of excellent soups. 
Then there is cress-seed, parsley, common, lemon and orange thyme, 
knotted majoram, sage, mint, winter savory and celery, or celery- 
seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart 
the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable, and when used as a 
substitute, its flavor should be corrected by the addition of a pinch 
of sugar. Delicate flavors such as aromatic spices, any fruit ex- 
tracts, orange and lemon juice, etc,, should be added just before 
serving, as their flavors are evaporated by the heat, and some only 
put them in the tureen or individual dishes and pour the soup over 
them. Bay leaf is among soups and meats what vanilla is among 
sweets. Skillfully used it gives that flavor of French cookery that 
is recognized as something different from the ordinary home-made 
article, even by those who cannot tell wherein the difference consists. 
Of course there are many others, just as there are other flavors for 
ice-cream besides vanilla; we S])eak of its relative importance to ad- 
Tise a particular discretion in its use. f One large bay leaf will flavor 
two gallons of soup, and only a small piece is wanted in a soup for 
a family dinner. For both coloring and flavoring soups, use Cara- 
mel, Browned Flour, ment with cloves in it, or browned with butter 
and sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till they are browned, 
and then rubbed through a sieve. Poached eggs are an excellent 
addition to some soups. They should be added just before serving, 
one for each person, and they may be poached in water or dropped 
into the boiling soup, or to shape them nicely ; break one in a but- 



822 SOUPS. 

tered cuf^ and place cups in frying-pan, pouring water around and 
in the cups ; when done take out carefully and add to soup. This 
is a nice way to cook them to be served alone, only bake them in 
oven and omit the water from the cup, putting a little salt and pep- 
per on top of egg ; bake three minutes and serve at once in the 
cups ; or two or three eggs, well-beaten and added just before pour- 
ing in tureen, make a nice thickening. Cayenne pepper or a bit of 
red pepper pod, is considered an improvement in soup, but must 
be cautiously used. Forcemeat Balls, and Croutons, dice of fried 
or toasted bread, are also used. If soup is salted too highly, add a 
teaspoon sugar and a tablespoon vinegar, and it will help modify it. 

Soup Stock. — This is to soup what yeast is to bread and although 
many soups are made as above, without any stock, yet when one has 
learned the art of making the latter she will always find herself 
ready to prepare a dish of delicious soup at almost a minutes' warn- 
ing, aud the mystery which seems to surround the simple word of 
"stock" will be unravelled with her first attempt. To make a Plain 
Stocky take in proportion of one pound meat and bones to one quart 
cold water, unless it is to be boiling seven or nine hours making a 
Jelly Stock, when add a little more water. It is better to cut the 
meat from the bones, cutting it in small pieces and breaking the 
bones fine, some indeed believe in crushing them almost to a pow- 
der and when so treated a little water must be added as they are be- 
ing crushed, and they must then be placed in a sack. But simply 
breaking them, or rather having the butcher do it, is all that is 
necessary, as that allows the quicker freeing of the gelatine of which 
the bones are chiefly composed, two ounces of them containing as 
much gelatine as a pound of meat ; so that when equal portions 
bones and meat are taken, the stock when cold will be a jelly, but if 
only meat is used and but little bone the stock will be liquid. Stock 
made only of bones lacks in flavor as they do not contain a particle 
oi osmazome which is that part of the meat which gives flavor to the 
stock. The flesh of old animals contains more osmazome than that 
of young ones, and dark meats more than white, and make the stock 
more fragrant. By roasting meat the osmazome appears to acquire 
higher properties ; so by putting the remains of roast meats into 
stock a better flavor is obtained. There is also contained in the 
meat, fibres, fat, and albumen ; the fibres are inseparable and con- 
stitute almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone 
a long boiling ; most of the fat dissolves by cooking and the albu- 
men is of the nature of the white of eggs ; it can be dissolved only 
in cold or tepid water, and coagulates when it is put in water not 
quite at the boiling point. From this property in albumen, it is 
evident that if the meat is put into hot or boiling water or the water 
is made to boil up quickly afterward, the albumen, in both cases, 
hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains 
in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from 



SOUPS. 82.^ 

dissolving ; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. 
It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the 
meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the 
piece, as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that de- 
gree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it, for this 
reason the meat is better cut in small pieces. 

The meat must be fresh as possible (the same as for soup) to 
obtain finest flavored stock, and should be cooked from three to 
eight hours ; the shorter time making a Liquid Stock the latter a 
Jelly Stock. Cook very slowly, letting it heat gradually as the 
soaking of the meat in the cold water while it is being heated ex- 
tracts the juice better and the latter mingles more perfectly and so 
gives a finer flavor, and for that reason, letting the meat stand an 
hour or so in the kettle of water before placing it on stove is recom- 
mended by some. The proportion of salt used in making stock is 
about one tablespoon, not more, to a gallon of water, being used 
for the purpose of separating the blood and slime from the meat ; 
the latter will rise just as boiling commences, in the form of scum 
and should be removed immediately as the agitation of the water 
breaks it, and it will mingle speedily with the stock and make the 
latter cloudy ; a dash of cold water added to kettle just as stock 
boils will assist the scum to rise, skim often, set back and let stock 
boil gently on one side or in one place, and not all over; "the pot 
should smile, not laugh," is a trite but true saying as rapid boiling 
hardens the fibre of the meat and the savory flavor escapes with the 
steam ; the simmering also assists in clarifying and if gently cooked, 
stock will often be quite clear after straining. As regards ti7ne of 
cooking^ if prepared and made as above the juices, etc., will be well 
extracted in two or three hours and the flavor is injured by too 
much cooking. If a Jelly Stock is wished cook the seven or nine 
hours. When any stock is done, strain carefully through a clean 
towel folded several times, and laid in a colander set over a stone 
crock or jar; never allow it to stand and cool in pot in which it 
was cooked, but always strain in the crock as directed. Do not 
squeeze towel through which it is strained — simply let the stock run 
through it, and let cool without covering, except with a sieve or 
cheese cloth cover — if it were covered with a plate, or any other 
covering which would confine the steam, it Avould be injured, be- 
cause the steam condensing upon inside of cover would fall back 
into it, and, in warm weather, this might cause it to sour. Let it 
cool quickly as the sooner it is cold the iiner the flavor and the 
longer it will keep. In cold weather it may be kept a week but in 
summer it will need thorough scalding every other day probably; 
letting it boil a few moments, not simply warming it, as that only 
causes it to sour more quickly. Before stock is first cooled 
some add salt till nicely seasoned, thinking it aids in the preserva- 
tion of the stock. After it has cooled, letting it stand overnight is 



824 SOUPS. 

best, remove the cake of grease that forms on top and then clarify, 
if necessary, as described hereafter ; although as the cake assists in 
exchiding the air it is Avell to let it remain on the stock till some of 
the latter is needed. If stock is wanted shortly after straining, add 
a little cold Avater and the grease will rise and can be readily skim- 
med off and then reheated. From this can be made all the various 
kinds of soups adding vegetables and flavoring as given in Making 
and Seasoning Soups. Where a Jelly Stock is made it is nice to put 
some in pint self-sealing glass cans, as it can be readily melted by 
placing can in hot water, and then poured in kettle and water, etc., 
added as needed. When the jelly is sliced off for u'^e, after beiiig kept 
in a crock, scrape off any sediment that may be at bottom. In using 
any stock, whatever is added in making the soup, as rice, tapioca, 
vegetables, etc., should first be cooked tenderas much boiling injures 
the flavor of the stock and for that reason, the better way in making 
any Vegetable Soup, is to cook the vegetables tender in Avater,then add 
stock till as rich as wished and flavor and season as preferred. A 
Complex Stock is made of two or more kinds of meat, or fowl cooked 
together, and the flavor may be varied by using in it a little ham, 
anchovy, sausage, or a calf's foot. Sprigs of herbs, and whole spices 
may be used in seasoning, and afterwards strained out, and whole 
vegetables such as onions, turnips, carrots, tomatoes, etc., may be 
added when making stock after it has been skimmed, and cooked 
with it, skimming out before straining; but they cause it to sour 
much more quickly and unless to be used soon are not advisable 
Turnips should certainly be omitted in summer as they will cause 
sourness quicker than any other vegetable. WMte Stock is made 
as Plain Stock using veal, poultry or any light meats. As some 
make with vegetables we give a recipe or two. Fish Stock for 
soup is made in the same manner as that of meat; a good rule be- 
ing two pounds of beef or veal, or if plenty of fish omJt the meat, 
any kinds of trimmings of White fish, cut up, when preparing them 
for table ; put in two quarts cold water, skim- and add two onions, 
bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, and rind of half a lemon ; simmer 
two hours, strain and finish as any stock. When a richer stock is 
wanted fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water. Fish 
Stock sours much more quickly than any other stock, so do not 
make long before wanted. Ironing and baking day is the best 
time for making all stock and in making a Complex Stock the 
Kitchen Queen may use any combination of meats, bones, etc., at 
command and with care, will have tlie foundation of a savOry dish 
with which to tempt the appetites of her subjects, furnishing them 
with something in which every particle of nourishment in the in- 
gredients used has been extracted ; and they are at once refreshed 
almost as soon as one who depends upon his glass of wine as a 
stimulus. For Ecomonical Stock, make of steak or roast beef bones 



sours. 825 

with the meat on them, after cooking, adding a little piece of fresh 
meat, or none at all, and allowing it to sinnner at least five hours ; 
strain, remove all fat the next day, and it will be ready for use. Or 
to a soup bone add any trimmings of fresh meat or i)oultry, roast 
beef bones, an onion stuck with eight or ten cloves, a turnip, two 
carrots, tablespoon salt, bunch of herbs as given in Meats, teaspoon 
sugar and cold water in proportion given. Let simmer gently and 
strain and finish as directed. For a Medium Stockiixke four pounds 
shin of beef or four of knuckle of veal or two pounds each with 
trimmings of poultry, etc., and quarter pound lean bacon or ham, 
with vegetables as above, adding half dozen stalks of celery, and a 
tomato or two gives a delicious flavor. Make as above or cut up 
meat and bacon or ham into two-inch squares ; rub two tablespoons 
butter on bottom of kettle, add meat and other ingredients with 
half pint cold water ; cover and cook till the bottom has become 
lined with a pale jelly-like substance ; then add four quarts cold 
water, skim as needed and simmer gently four or five hours and fin- 
ish as above. For a Rich Stock take four pounds each shin of 
beef and knuckle of veal, half pound lean ham or a ham bone and a 
calf's foot, with the vegetables given above, or not, as wished. For 
a White Stock, cut up five pounds shin of veal and one chicken,, 
put in pot with the bone and a gallon and a half water. Some fry 
the meat in tlje x>ot with a little butter fifteen oi- twenty minutes 
before adding water. Skim as directed, then simmer two or three 
hours, add three stalks celery, one onion, white turnip, blade mace 
and any other vegetables wished that are given in the list used in 
White Stock or Soup. The chicken can be omitted, but veal, 
chicken, fish, oysters, etc., either singly or two or more combined 
always form tlie basis of above. 

Clarifying Stock. — To clarify a gallon of stock, take whites 
and shells of two or three eggs Avith tablespoon cold water to 
each egg ; break up shells and beat with the whites and cold water, 
place in saucepan, pour the cold stock upon them, set over fire, and 
let slowly reach boiling point, stirring it four or five times to loosen 
the egg from the bottom ; as it boils the egg will harden and rise to 
surface in a thick scum. When stock appears quite clear under the 
scum pour it very gently into a folded towel laid in a colander, 
which must be set over a large bowl, and allow it to run through 
the towel without squeezing it. This clarified stock is also called 
Clear Soup or Consomme. 

Almond Soup. — Boil four pounds beef, or veal, and half a neck 
of mutton, gently in water to cover till stock is strong and meat very 
tender; strain, and set it on fire, adding ingredients in proportion 
of half pound vermicelli, four blades mace, and six cloves, to two 
quarts stock. Let it boil till it has the flavor of the spices. Have 
ready half pound almonds, blanched and pounded very fine, yolks 



826 SOUPS. 

of six eggs boiled hard ; mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with 
a little of the soup, lest the former should grow oily ; pound them 
till they are a mere pulp, and keep adding to them, by degrees, a 
little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together. Let soup be 
cool while adding above and stir till perfectly smooth. Just before 
serving add gill thick cream. Or take a quart of jellied White 
Stock ; let heat and add to it water if needed, and a pint of cream made 
hot in custard kettle flavored with rind of a lemon. Add the almonds 
and a thickening of two tablesjioons butter and three of flour, with a 
seasoning of salt and pepper and a Uttle mace. Let cook twenty 
minutes, and serve. 

Apple Soitp. — Peel, quarter and core about two pounds good 
cooking apples and stew gently in three quarts stock till tender ; 
rub all through a puree sieve, add six cloves, white pepper, cayenne 
and ginger to taste, boil up once and serve. Or slice half dozen 
pared apples and cook till tender in a very little water adding tea- 
cup sugar and juice of one lemon ; take off and let cool. Slice 
twelve apples and put into two quarts water with third of a pound 
each currants and seeded raisins and cook till soft, add cup sugar 
and strain through a cloth or puree sieve ; pour this over the cooked 
sliced apples, adding juice of another lemon, if wished, and serve 
when cold, with a piece of ice in each dish. Or With Dried Apples^ 
to three quarts water add cup prunes or part raisins ; oook an hour, 
add cup dried apples, soaked if necessary, two tablespoons sago and 
a small stick cinnamon ; when apples are tender, in about an hour, 
add juice of one lemon, or slices of a pared lemon ; sweeten to taste 
and serve hot in winter or iced in summer. Corn-starch may be 
used instead of the sago, adding it just before serving; if too thick 
add water till consistency of good cream. Can be made same with 
fresh apples, and is a delicious soup with either. 

Amher Soup. — Slice a medium-sized onion, carrot and half a 
white turnip and fry with some ham or salt pork, cut in dice, fif- 
teen minutes ; put in soup kettle, add a bunch of sweet herbs and a 
gallon of any stock made without vegetables. Cook three-quarters 
of an hour, strain, clarify, reheat, add teaspoon Caramel, season to 
taste and serve. 

Artichoke Soup. — Put a turnip and onion cut in thin slices, 
into saucepan with half head cut celery, three slices lean bacon or 
ham and three tablespoons butter, and place over fire fifteen min- 
utes, stirring to prevent scorching. Wash and pare four pounds 
Jerusalem artichokes, cut into thin slices and add the other ingred- 
ients with pint of White Stock. Stew all to smooth pulp, add an- 
other pint and a half stock, stirring in well, with seasoning of salt, 
cayenne and sugar to taste. Put through puree sieve, return to 
saucepan and simmer five minutes, skimming well, add half pint 
boiling cream, or pint hot milk, and serve with Croutons. 



SOUPS. 827 

Asparagus Soup.— Cut tops from thirty heads asparagus in 
about half inch pieces and simmer them gently in slightly salted 
water to cover ; boil the stalks left and strain through a sieve, rub- 
bing through any tender parts of stalks, adding a little salt and 
some like a very little sugar ; warm three pints White Stock, add a 
small lump butter and teaspoon flour previously cooked by heating 
butter and slowly stirring in flour ; then add asparagus pulp. Boil 
slowly quarter of an hour, stirring in two or three tablespoons 
cream ; color soup with teaspoon Spinach Coloring and just before 
serving, add asparagus tops with the water in which they were 
cooked. Some use only a quart stock, and add a pint more cream 
or milk, making Cream of Asjyaraffus Soup. When so much cream 
is added water may be used instead of stock. The Spinach Coloring 
is used to heighten the color, but is not a necessity. _ Or omit all 
cream and add a few leaves of white beet and lettuce, a little mint, sor- 
rel and marjoram, and serve poured over the crust of a French roll. To 
make With Fea^e, boil a pint and a half split pease till tender, rub 
through sieve and add cup stock, stew half pint asparagus, cut 
small, in three quarts water with four young onions, a head of let- 
tuce, shredded, and half head cut celery till tender, then put all 
together, stew a few minutes, add half pint cream and little Spinach 
Coloring and serve. The pease will require cooking about two and 
, one-half hours and other vegetables an hour. Fresh Pease may be 
used same way cooking till tender. 

Barley Soup.— Vut into a pot two pounds shin of beef, quarter 
pound pearled barlev, large bunch parsley, four onions, six pota- 
toes, salt and pepper to taste and four quarts water. Simmer gently 
four hours, rub through sieve, boil up once and serve. For Cream 
of Barley Soup, put a cup pearled barley with an onion and small 
piece each mace and cinnamon in three pints chicken stock and^ 
cook slowly five hours ; rub through sieve and add one and a half 
pints boiling creamer milk ; if milk, add also two tablespoons but- 
ter ; season to taste. If hked richer beat yolks of four eggs with lit- 
tle milk and stir into the hot milk or cream a minute or two before 
adding it to soup. 

Bea7i Soup.— BoW a small soup bone in about two quarts water 
until meat can be separated from bone, remove latter, add a large cup 
white beans soaked for two hours, boil for an hour and a half, add 
three potatoes, half a turnip and a parsnip, all sliced fine, boil half an 
hour longer, and just before serving sprinkle in a few dry bread- 
crumbs ; season with salt and pepper.and serve with raw onions,sliced 
very fine, for those who like them. For Turtle Bean Soup, soak one 
pint black beans overnight, then put them in three quarts water with 
beef bones or a small piece of lean salt pork and some add carrot 
and an onion, boil three or four hours, strain, season with salt, pep- 
per, cloves and lemon juice. Put in a few slices of lemon, and if 



828 souPs". 

wished add slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve with Croutons placed 
in the tureen. Or make a Saturday Soup,' for as baked beans and 
brown bread form a Sunday breakfast for so many it will be a use- 
ful and economical soup for Saturday dinner. Put on the pot with 
more beans, soaked overnight if wished than enough for Sunday's 
breakfast, with water, and slice of salt pork ; parboil till beans are 
ready to be put in oven. Take out pork and part of beans, leaving 
enough for the soup ; place pot on back of stove and keep hot. 
Three-quarters of an hour before dinner heat soup,and add more water 
and vegetables as in "Bean Soup ;" a carrot may also be added. For 
White Bean Soup, boil till tender a quart of white beans in water. 
Divide in halves, mashing one half, thin with a little stock and rub 
through a sieve. Boil again with a head of celery cut fine and a lit- 
tle more stock till a smooth soup is obtained. Now add the half 
of beans that has been reserved, together with a mild seasoning of 
sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Boil fifteen min- 
utes and serve. A Meatless Bean Soup is made by parboiling one 
pint beans, drain off water, add fresh, let boil until perfectly tender, 
season with pepper and salt, add a piece of butter size of a Avalnut, 
or more if preferred; when done skimout half the beans, leavingthe 
broth with the remaining half in the kettle ; now add a teacup sweet 
cream or good milk, and dozen or more crackers broken up ; let it 
boil up, and serve. For any bean soup an onion may first be fried* 
brown in kettle with some ham or bacon fiit, then the beans, water, 
etc., added ; and when tender all may be rubbed through puree sieve, 
reheated and a little thickening added if needed. 

Beef Soup. — Take cracked joints of beef, and after putting 
meat in kettle and covering it well with water, let it conx^ to a boil, 
when it should be well skimmed. Set kettle where meat will sim- 
mer slowly nntil it is thoroughly done, keeping it closely covered 
all the time. The next day remove fat which hardens on top of 
soup. This gives a plain stock. Peel, wash, and slice tlnve good- 
sized potatoes and put them into soup or stock ; cut up half a head 
of white cabbage in shreds, and add to this a pint of dried corn that 
has been soaked overnight, two onions, one head of celery, and to- 
matoes if desired. When these are done, and they should simmer 
slowly, care being taken that they do not burn, season with salt and 
pepper, strain (or not as preferred) and serve. The different varie- 
ties of beef soup are formed by this method of seasoning and using 
different vegetables, Besides onions, celery, cabbage, tomatoes and 
potatoes, many use a few carrots, turnips and beets ; sago, rice or 
barley will give the soup consistency, and are to be preferred to 
flour for the purpose. Parsley, thyme and sage are the favorite 
herbs for seasoning, but should be used sparingly and Force-meat 
Balls are always an improvement. A Steak Soup is made by put- 
ting fresh bones and trimmings from a sirloiii steak over fire after 
breakfast in three quarts water, and cooking steadily nntil about an 



SOUPS. - 829 

hour before dinner, when add two onions, one carrot, three com- 
mon-sized potatoes, all sliced, some parsley cut fine, a red pepper 
and salt to taste. This makes a delicious soup, sufficient for three 
persons. All soups are more palatable seasoned with onions and 
red pepper, using the seeds of latter with care, as they are very 
strong. For Economical Boup, take a soup bone (any piece of beef 
not to fat will do), wash well, place in kettle with sufficient cold 
water for soup ; let it boil, skim thoroughly and continue to boil 
slowly from three to six hours, according to size and quality of 
meat; one hour before dinner, put in cabbage cut in quarters, 
sprinkling it with salt ; quarter of an hour after add turnips halved 
or quartered according to size ; quarter hour after adding turnips, add 
potatoes whole, or cut in two if large (turnips and potatoes should 
be pared and laid in cold water half an hour before using) . When 
done take out vegetables and meat, small pieces of former will 
remain to be served in soup, place in heater, or if you have 
no heater, place plates over a pot or skillet of boiling water. If 
there is not enough soup, add boiling water, stir in a little thicken- 
ing of flour and water if needed, let it boil thoroughly; season to 
taste with salt and pepper and serve at once. The soup will be ex- 
eellent, and vegetables and meat will make a nice Boiled Dinner. 
A much prized southern dish is Okra Beef /Soup, fry one pound 
round steak cut in bits, two tablespoons butter, and one sliced 
onion, till very brown ; add to three or four quarts water in soup 
kettle, and boil slowly one hour ; then add pint sliced okra, and 
simmer three hours or more ; season with salt and pepper, strain 
and serve. Some add with the okra five tomatoes and a finely- 
chopped pepper. If wished richer use Plain Stock instead of water. 

Black So^tp. — Take the neck and any trimmings or pieces of 
tame goose, when cutting it up for frying ; put it in two quarts cold 
water with a very little salt, let cook slowly, skim, and add a carrot, 
parsnip, dliion with half dozen cloves stuck in it, half a turnip and 
cook till all are tender ; strain, return to kettle, and place on back 
of stove. To kill the goose pick off a few feathers at neck, then in- 
sert a sharp knife, and let the blood drip in a cup, strain and stir 
two tablespoons flour in smoothly. Add this to kettle of broth, 
stirring xoell all the time till served ; let just boil, add a little nice 
syrup and powdered cloves to taste, then two or three tablespoons 
vinegar, the chopped meat from the goose and serve at once. Made 
from pork in same way, being careful to stir the blood all the time 
when running, A dish which is often served as a dessert with this 
soup is a Swedish Pudding, for a quart of blood from beef or pork 
add two gills cider, salt and pepper and a finely chopped onion, 
fried in a little butter or lard five or ten minutes,'half teaspoon pow- 
dered ginger and sugar to taste, with best Graham or Rye flour till 
a thick batter ; pour in a well-buttered mold and steam two hours. 



830 SOUPS. 

Serve with a dressing of melted butter accompanied with a dish of 
Cranberry Sauce. This pudding is nice sliced cold and fried. 

Bouillon. — Put a three or four pound soup bone, selecting one 
with plenty of meat, in four quarts of cold water with level table- 
spoon salt ; let come to a boil, skim thoroughly ; then add one Avhole 
medium-sized turnip and onion pared, with latter stuck with half 
dozen cloves ; a scraped carrot and a Bunch of Herbs as given in 
meats ; or it may be composed of parsley, small stalk of celery, half a 
bay leaf, blade mace and five pepper-corns (if pepper is used) ; or the 
bunch may be omitted entirely, or use only parsley. But all these 
little seasonings add greatly to the flavor and when one becomes ac- 
customed to keep them on hand, the expense and extra trouble are- 
comparatively nothing. Let cook three hours, if cooked too long 
it will not be so clear; and the bone can be recooked, so it is fully 
as economical, and secures better results. Strain and set away,- 
without covering, excepting with a thin cloth. When wanted for 
use remove fat, heat and strain ; then reheat. This second strain 
ing generally prevents necessity of clarifying, but if cloudy, clarify 
as directed. This gives Plain Bouillon to which add Caramel till of 
color desired, as the more added the deeper the shade, but too high 
a flavor does not want to be given. When making it just for the 
Bouillon, for three pints of latter put tablespoon sugar in frying pan 
and let brown, stirring all the time. Then add gradually cup of 
the bouillon or water, as if added all at once it would boil over ; 
cook a few moments, and add to kettle ; if any sugar is left in pan 
add a little more bouillon, cook a moment or two and add. Serve 
very hot in bouillon cups. For Philadelphia Boidllon add to the 
soup bone a chicken, a pound of shin of veal and a small slice ham ; 
if the meat is cut from bone, in order to break tbe latter up, place 
bones in kettle first then put the meat on them, fry the whole onion 
in little ham fat add with other ingredients and cook %wx hours. 
True Bouillon is served as above for company dinners, receptions, 
and evening parties, and should be used at many a home dinner ; 
but additions may be made to it and one of the nicest is tbe Sweed- 
ish Dumplings, rub tablespoon butter with two (heaping) of flour, 
smoothly in saucepan over the fire, add pinch salt, pint crenm, or 
pint cream and milk, and stir till thick as mush, add two teaspoons 
sugar, and tablespoon grated almonds or cocoa-nut ; remove from 
stove and add beaten yolks of two eggs. After dishing bouillon 
place a spoonful or two in each cup ; or a slice of lemon or yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg and serve. Or sago, tapioca, macaroni, or vermi- 
celli may be added, cooking them first, or a poached egg to each 
cup. Some like the addition gf a few cooked tomatoes, which give 
a delicious flavor. Bouillon will keep for several days in cool 
weather, so one can vary the soup each day. 



SOUPS. 



831 



Bread Soup. — Boil pound bread-crusts in quart stock, adding 
tablespoon butter; when it softens beat all together with a spoon till 
well mixed, season to taste with pepper, salt and a very little of any 
spice preferred, and serve. 

Cabbage Soup. — Shave a head cabbage fine, boil till tender in 
water needed for soup, add tablespoon sugar, salt and pepper to 
taste ; drop in dumplings, made as for pot pie, and when ready to 
serve, add butter and sweet cream to taste. Serve hot. 

Cai^ot Soup. — Put in soup kettle a knuckle of veal, three or 
four quarts"cold water, quart finely-sliced carrots, one head celery, 
or teaspoon celery seed ; boil two and a half hours, add handful 
rice, and boil an hour longer; season with pepper (or a bit of red 
pepper pod) and salt, and serve. If veal is not at hand boil a beef 
bone, or any good stock may be used ; some omit rice and celery 
and add two onions and a turnip sliced, and Avhen tender pulp 
through a sieve. May be made day before wanted, and is said to be 
all the better. To make of carrots alone, put in about two pounds 
sliced carrots in stewpan with three tablespoons butter and place 
where they will stew gently an hour without browning. Then pour 
over them two quarts stock and simmer another hour, or till tender ; 
rub through sieve, add salt and cayenne to taste, return to fire and 
boil five minutes, skim well and serve. 

Cauliflower Soup. — Boil the cauliflower, picked in small pieces, 
in salted water about half an hour ; wash half of it, and put that 
in three pints White Stock or the clear broth from cooking an old 
chicken, in either of which a tablespoon of minced onion has been 
cooked fifteen minutes ; add pint of boiled rich milk, season with 
white pepper, and a blade of mace, add a little thickening if neces- 
sary ; then add tablespoon butter and the whole pieces of cauli- 
flower with a tablespoon minced parsley. Boil up once and serve. 
About a cup of cauliflower is needed and that left from a meal may 
be used. Some add a speck of cayenne. 

Celery Soup. — Wash and scrape a head of celery well, cut into 
small pieces, put in pint boiling salted water and cook till very 
soft ; chop an onion, boil in quart milk ten minutes and add all to 
celery ; rub through sieve, boil again, add tablespoon each butter 
and flour that have been stirred together over fire, and stir until 
smooth and well cooked ; add pepper and salt to taste and serve, 
straining again if not perfectly smooth. Or cut nice stalks celery 
fine and boil in water seasoned with salt, nutmeg and sugar to taste 
till tender, rub through sieve, put pulp in half pint strong stock, 
simmer half an hour, add pint cream, bring to boiling point and 
serve. If a brown soup is wanted omit cream and use all stock, 
adding a little Caramel Coloring. Or put half pint cold cooked rice 
into two quarts boiling milk in 'CUstard kettle with head of celery 



832 SOUPS. 

cut very fine, and stew till celery is tender. Season to taste with 
butter, salt, white pepper and a little mace if liked. Pour over two 
well-beaten eggs in tureen and scatter crisp bread dice over top. 
For Celery Cream Soup^ boil small cup rice in three pints milk, 
until it will pass through sieve. Grate white part of two heads celery 
(three if small) on bread-grater; add this to the rice milk after it 
has been strained, also quart strong white stock ; boil until celery is 
perfectly tender, season with salt, white pepper and a very little 
grated nutmeg, and serve. If cream is obtainable, substitute one 
pint for same quantity of milk. The soup should be of a nice 
creamy consistenc3% neither too thick nor too thin. When fresh 
celery cannot be had, a little of the seed, finely pounded, or the 
essence will flavor soup nicely. 

Chestnut Soup. — Blanch a quart shelled chestnuts, boil in- 
plenty of water till tender and rub through fine sieve with potato 
masher. Mix smooth a tablespoon each flour and butter in sauce- 
pan over fire and add gradually a quart milk ; when scalding hot, 
season with saltspoon salt, pinch pepper and nutmeg, add chestnut 
pulp, boil up once and serve. For a richer soup boil chestnuts 
in stock, and use the whole or a part pf stock for the soup, adding 
gill cream to each quart. 

Chicken Soup. — In boiling chickens for salads, etc., the broth 
(water in which they are boiled) may be used for soup. When the 
chickens are to be served whole, stuff and tie in a cloth. To the 
broth add a dozen tomatoes (or a quart can), and one thinlj'-sliced 
onion ; boil twenty minutes, season with salt and pepper, add two 
well-beaten eggs, and serve. Or, for Southern Chicken Soup, cut 
meat of one chicken into small pieces, except the breast, and break 
the bones. Place bones and meat in kettle with breast on top and 
cover with cold water, cook three or four hours, skimming well, and 
remove the breast as soon as tender ; strain and to three pints stock 
add three tablespoons cooked rice, the breast cut in dice, tablespoon 
minced parsley, and salt and white pe]3per to taste. Cook fifteen 
minutes and serve. Some cook a half pound or so of round steak, 
cut in dice, with chicken and bones; or add three carrots cut up, 
pint of tomatoes, teacup of lima beans, and salt to taste and pinch 
cayenne pepper, and simmer four hours. An hour before serving 
add pint rich milk ; add thickening if needed and serve. An old 
chicken is best as it gives a richer, finer flavor. 

CLAM SOUP. 

First catch your clams— along the ebbing edges 
Of saline coves you'll find the precious -wedges, 
Witn backs up, lurking in the sandy bottom; 
Pull in your iron rake, and lo ! you've got 'cm ! 
Take thirty large oms, put a basin uuder, 
And cleave, with knife, their stony jaws asunder: 



SOUPS. 833 

Add water (three quarts) to the native liquor^ 

Bring to a boil, (and, by the way, the quicker 

It boils the better, if you'd do it cutely.) 

Now add the clams, chopped up aud raiuced minutely. 

Allow a longer boil of just three minutes, 

And while it bubbles, quickly stir within its 

Tumultuous depths where still the mollusks mutter, 

Four table-spoons of flour aud four of butter, 

A pint of milk, some pepper to your notion, 

And clams need salting, although born of ocean, 

Kemove from fire; (if much boiled they will sufTer— 

Yon 11 find that India-rubber is u t tougher.) 

After 'tis off. add three fresh eggs, well beaten. 

Stir once more, and it's ready to be eaten. 

Fruit of the wave! O dainty and delicious! 

Food for the gods ! Ambrosia for Apicius! 

Worthy to thrill the soul of sea-born Venus, 

Or titillate the palate of Sileuus. —W. A. Croffut 

Clam Soup. — Wash clams, and place in just sufficient Avaterfor 
soup, let boil, and as soon as they clear from shells, take out and 
place clams in a jar for pickling ; throw into the broth a pint each 
of sweet milk and rolled crackers, add a little salt, boil five minutes 
and just before taking from fire, add tablespoon butter beaten with 
two eggs and serve, letting each person season to taste. 

Cocoa-nut Soup. — Simmer six ounces grated cocoa-nut one 
hour in two quarts veal stock keeping closely covered ; strain care- 
fully, add gill hot cream, seasoning of salt, white pepper, and a little 
mace if liked, and_ thicken with three scant tablespoons rice flour, 
stirred smooth in little cold milk ; boil one minute and serve. Wheat 
flour may be used if rice flour is not at hand. 

Corn Soup. — One large fowl, or four pounds veal (knuckle or 
neck will do), put over fire in gallon cold water with a little salt, 
skim well, cover tightly and simmer slowly till meat slips from' 
bones, not allowing it to boil to rags, as it will make a nice dish for 
breakfast or lunch, or even for dinner. Set aside with meat a cup 
of the liquor; strain soup to remove all bones and rags of meat; 
grate dozen ears green corn, scraping cobs to remove the heart of 
the kernel, add corn to soup, with salt, pepper, and a little parsley, 
and simmer slowly half an hour. Just before serving add a table- 
spoon flour beaten very thoroughly Avith a tablespoon butter. Serve 
hot. To serve chicken or veal, put broth (which was reserved) in a 
clean saucepan, beat one egg, tablespoon butter and teaspoon flour 
together very thoroughly, and add to it with salt, pepper, and a lit- 
tle chopped parsley. Arrange meat on dish, pour over the gravy 
boiling hot, and serve at once. Or for Hasty Corn Soup, cook to- 
gether three pints White Stock and pint grated sweet corn twenty 
minutes, then add pint each cream and milk with tablespoon butter 
little minced parsley, and a smooth thickening of flour and water if 



834 SOUPS. 

needed. Season to taste and serve. Or for Meatless Corn Soup, 
grate twelve ears SAveet corn, and put cobs into kettle with cold 
water enough to cover, and boil one hour; then sldm out cobs and 
add grated corn, with teacup boiling water, and boil half an hour. 
Add quart of milk, or part cream and milk, salt and pepper, and 
boil for ten minutes. Put in piece of butter size of an egg, eat ket- 
tle on back of stove and add three Avell-beaten eggs, stir rapidly for 
live minutes, and serve immediately with croutons, or with crackers. 
Some add Buckeye Dumplings, boil fifteen minutes and serve. For 
Corn Chowder., cut half a pound of pork in slices, and fry brown, 
then take up, and fry two medium-sized onions in the fat. Put 
quart sliced potatoes and three pints grated or cut corn into kettle 
in layers, sprinkling each layer Avith salt, pepper and flour, Using 
saltspoon pepper, two tablespoons salt and five of fiour. Strain 
onions and fat over vegetables, and with a spoon press the juice 
through strainer ; then slowly pour three pints boiling water through 
strainer, rubbing as much onion through as possible. Cover kettle, 
and boil gently half an hour. Mix two tablespoons of corn-starch 
with a little milk, and when perfectly smooth, add quart rich milk. 
Stir this into the boiling chowder. Taste to see if seasoned enough, 
and if not, add more pepper and salt. Then add half dozen crack- 
ers, split, buttered and dipped for a minute in cold water. Put on 
cover, boil up once, and serve. 

Cream Soup. — Stir over the fire two tablespoons butter and 
three of flour in saucepan till smooth, add boiled milk, a half cup at 
a time, till three pints have been used, half milk and water may be 
used, or for a richer soup, use half cream and milk ; season with 
white pepper, salt, and pinch nutmeg. Serve with croutons added 
a moment before dishing. For Cream of Beets add a puree of beets 
made by rubbing well-cooked beets through a fine sieve with a po- 
tato masher. Cream of Spmach, Asparagus, Celery, Pease, etc., 
are made in same way. The quantity of pulp can be varied to suit 
the taste. For Cream of Sabnon, rub through puree sieve three- 
quarters of a pint boiled Salmon, canned maybe used without cook- 
ing, and add as above. 

Cucumber Soup. — Pare one large cucumber, quarter and take 
out seeds ; cut it in thin slices, put them on plate Avith little salt, to 
draAV water from them; drain, and put in saucepan, Avith butter. 
When Avarmed through, Avithout being broAvned, pour quart stock 
on them. Add a little sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil forty 
minutes. Mix well-beaten yolks of tAvo eggs with gill cream, Avhich 
add just before serving. 

Flemish Soup. — Slice five onions, ten stalks celery, and ten 
medium-sized potatoes, and put them Avith three tablespoons butter 
and half pint water in steAvpan, and simmer for an hour. Then add 



SOUPS. 835 

two quarts Plain Stock and cook gently till potatoes are done. Rub 
all through a sieve, add half pint boiled cream and serve at once. 

Fruit Soup. — This soup is a general favorite and as it is so very 
easily made one with little experience can attempt it. There are 
two divisions the clear and the thick, the latter being made by using 
the pulp of the fruit. Take any fresh fruit, pie-plant, strawberries, 
gooseberries, currants, cherries, wild plums, raspberries, etc., and 
add water and cook till all juice is extracted ; for a clear soup, strain 
and take amount of juice wished, adding more water, if necessary, 
till a pleasant flavor, boil, skim, and to three pints liquid add table- 
spoon corn-starch mixed smooth with a little water, sweeten to taste, 
boil a moment and serve cold in summer, with a lump of ice and 
tablespoon sweetened whipped cream in each dish, or bouillon cup, 
and hot in winter, omitting cream. Part currants and raspberries 
may be used together, or any harmonious combination of fruit or 
the juices; as canned juice can be used and any of the Shrubs are 
especially delicious. For liaspherry Soup, add water to Raspberry 
Shrub till of a pleasant flavor, then finish as above without sweet- 
ening. The vinegar already used in the shrub imparts just enough 
of the acid flavor wished. When using any fresh fruit or canned 
juice, a little lemon or currant juice may be added to the sweeter 
fruits, adding the lemon just before removing soup from fire, and a 
little orange juice to Strawberry Soup made as above gives a richer 
flavor. A very elaborate recipe is to pick and Avash two quarts 
strawberries and rub, without cooking, through a puree sieve add- 
ing water to the pulp till consistency of cream, sweeten to taste and 
add gill orange, and third of a gill lemon juice. When cold, ice and 
serve with a few whole berries, Avhich have been standing in sugar 
an hour or two, and a spoonful of whipped cream in each dish. 
For Cherry Soup, cook cherries in water, sweeten to taste, flavor 
with teaspoon vanilla and serve hot, without straining if wished. 
A richer soup is made by stoning half peck cherries, boil till soft in 
water Avith a stick cinnamon and sugar ; add water till of a pleasant 
flavor, rub through a puree sieve, reserving a few of them whole ; 
crack half the stones, take out kernels, boil them, adding litle sugar, 
rub through sieve or pound to a paste and add to soup and flavor 
as in second recipe of Strawberry Soup. Let cool and serve iced 
wdth some of the reserved whole cherries in each dish. Make 
Apricot Soup in same Avay cutting half of apricots in slices, sprink- 
ling with sugar and letting stand while the other half is cooking. 
Add apricot kernel paste as above, flavoring with pineapple juice, 
add reserved slices and serve iced. Blackberry Soup is made as 
Raspberry, and one can always make a delicious soup from any 
fruit, juice or shrub at command and should not fail to try it, as it 
makes such a refreshing first course at dinner in summer; oris 
delicious served a la bouillon forluncheon.or an evening company. 
Croutons are nice added to fruit soups just before serving if to be 




836 SOUPS. 

eaten hot ; or when iced accompany with a dish of Dry Toast made 
as on page 59, or slices of bread, sprinkled with sugar and glazed in 
oven or fried in butter. 

Julienne Soup. — Cut carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, string 
beans, etc., into strips as illustrated, about one and a quarter inches 
long having them all of same size ; take a 
gill or so of each, fry the carrot pieces in but- 
ter and pour three quarts boiling stock over 
them, add the rest of vegetables with some 
lettuce and sorrel cut in larger pieces, a bay 
leaf and a small onion, and simmer gently 
an hour or until vegetables are tender. Pour 
the soup over some Croutons placed in tu- strips of vegetables. 

reen and serve hot. Some do not fry the carrots but add all to the 
stock, or water may be used instead of stock. If all vegetables are 
not obtainable any three of them may be used, but the sorrel is con- 
sidered indispensable by epicures. 

Lemon Soup. — Heat three pints Bouillon or any clear stock 
and pour it upon a well-beaten egg placed in tureen ; add juice of 
large lemon, half pint Croutons and serve at once. 

Lohster Sotip. — Pick meat from one lobster or two small ones, 
and beat fins, chine, and small claws in a mortar, previously taking 
away brown fin and bag in head. Put in a stewpan, with bread- 
crumbs, anchovy, half an onion, small bunch herbs, strip lemon 
peel, and two quarts water; simmer gently till all goodness is ex- 
tracted, and strain. Pound the spawn in a mortar, with tablespoon 
butter, little nutmeg, and half teaspoon flour, adding third of a pint 
each cream and milk and put in stewpan with the tails cut in pieces. 
Make Forcemeat Balls with the remainder of the lobster, seasoned 
with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few bread- 
crumbs ; moisten them with egg, heat them in soup and serve. For 
a Flain Lohster Soup omit onions, anchovy and lemon peel. 

Milk Soup. — Brown lightly a thinly-sliced onion in butter in a 
very hot frying-pan, add tables])oon ilour and when brown add 
slowly pint boiling water. Cook briskly a few moments, place on 
back of stove and simmer two hours, add gill boiling water, a little 
salt and sugar and a pint of boiled new milk, boil up once and serve. 
Or With Eggs, boil two quarts milk with saltspoon salt, teaspoon 
powdered cinnamon, and three of sugar ; place four thin slices of 
bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it 
hot over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, 
add them to milk, and stir it over fire till it thickens ; do not let it 
curdle ; pour upon the bread, and serve. Nice for children. Bread 
mav be toasted, if wished. 



80UF8. 837 

Mock Turtle or Calfs-head Soup— Lay one large calf's head 
well cleaned and washed, and four pig's feet, in bottom of a large 
kettle, and cover with a gallon water ; boil three hours, or until 
flesh will slip from bones ; take out head, leaving feet to be boiled 
steadily while meat is cut from head ; select with care enough of 
the fatty portions in top of head and cheeks to fill a teacup, and set 
aside to cool ; remove brains to saucer, and also set aside ; chop 
rest of meat with tongue very fine, season with salt, pepper, pow- 
dered majoram and thyme, a teaspoon of cloves, one of mace, half 
as much allspice and grated nutmeg. When flesh falls from bones 
of feet, take out bones, leaving the gelatinous meat; boil all together 
slowly, without removing cover, for two hours more; take soup 
from fire and set away until next day. Skim off fat an hour before 
dinner and set stock over fire, and when it boils strain carefully and 
drop in reserved meat, which should have been cut when cold, into 
small squares. Have these all ready as well as Force-meat Balls, 
to prepare which rub the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs to a paste in 
a mortar, or in a bowl with back of silver spoon, adding gradually 
the brains to moisten them, also a little butter and salt. Mix with 
these, two eggs beaten very light, flour hands and make this paste 
into balls about size of a pigeon's egg; throw them into soup five 
minutes before taking from fire ; stir in large tablespoon browned 
flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water, and finish the seasoning 
by addition of four tablespoons sherry or Maderia wine, and juice of 
a lemon. It should not boil more than half an hour on second day. 
Serve with sliced lemons. Some use only the head with seven 
quarts water and serve brain, tongue, etc., for separate dishes, al- 
though the tongue can be first cooked with it. A finer flavor is 
given when cooking head first time to add piece fried ham and a 
carrot, turnip and onion stuck with eight cloves, and a bunch sweet 
herbs as given in Bouillon with strips of rind of half a lemon. When 
to be reheated put tablespoon butter and two of flour in saucepan, 
when a light brown add pint and a half of the stock with half a bay 
leaf, a tuft of celery leaves, three or four sprigs parsley, a blade of 
mace, and some add a few chives. Cook forty minutes, strain and 
add to rest of stock, with some of meat from head cut in dice ; let 
boil up once and pour in tureen, in which is the juice of half a 
lemon, with slices of the other half and chopped yolks of three hard- 
boiled eggs. We do not think the wine as in first recipe is essential. 
Some add a knuckle of veal and for a plain soup to be served at 
once, simply boil with an onion and any sweet herbs at hand about 
four hours ; then strain and chop meat from head in dice and re- 
turn to soup, season with a little celery seed and either pour it over 
the chopped yolks of eggs and lemon slices ; or fifteen minutes be- 
fore serving, add, pouring it through the holes of a colander a thin 
batter of an egg, cup of milk and flour as needed, and then pour 
soup over the slices of a lemon. 



838 soTJPS. 

Mutton Soup. — Boil a four or five 'pound leg of mutton two 
hours ; take out and place in oven to brown an hour, basting it 
often. To the broth add onion and potato chopped fine, half a cup 
of barley, soaked overnight in two cups water, and two large toma- 
toes ; season with pepper and salt, boil one hour, stir often (as bar- 
ley is apt to burn), and, before taking from the fire, add tablespoon 
flour wet with cold water if needed. Or take three or four pounds 
neck of mutton, cut up the meat, break the bones and put all in 
kettle with three quarts water. Let boil, skim, then simmer till a 
clear well-flavored broth ; add barley and vegetables as above, or 
barley, carrots, turnips, etc., may be used with bunch of herbs. 

Noodle Soup. — Add noodles to beef or any other soup after strain- 
ing ; they will cook in fifteen or twenty minutes, and are prepared 
in the following manner : To one egg add as much sifted flour as it 
will absorb with a little salt ; work it in with the fingers ten or fif- 
teen minutes, mixing it as stiff as possible ; roll to a very thin sheet, 
fold and roll as thin as a wafer, dust lightly with flour and roll up 
tightly as a Jelly Roll ; slice from the ends with a thin sharp knife, 
shake out the strips loosely, let dry an hour or two and drop into 
soup and cook ten minutes. Some add two teaspoons water. 

Ohra Soup. — Take a nice joint of beef filled with marrow, gal- 
lon water, onion cut fine, two sprigs parsley, two quarts okra, one 
quart tomatoes ; boil meat six hours, add vegetables and boil two 
hours more. Or brown an onion with a slice of bacon or ham, then 
add vegetables as above, or two quarts tomato and one of okra, 
three quarts water and cook slowly two or three hours, seasoning 
to taste. Or for Southern Gumbo, prepare vegetables as in second 
recipe, adding a bay leaf and blade of mace, then cut up and fry 
brown a squirrel, chicken or piece of veal, add and cook till tender, 
seasoning with pepper, salt and a pinch cayenne. Take out meat 
and serve separately. Some ahvays add a ham bone and a little 
grated or cut corn, and Lima beans are considered an improvement, 
and just before serving add four or five tablespoons boiled rice and 
histead of cayenne, tablespoon or two of green pepper chopped fine. 
Boil up once and serve. 

Onion Soup. — Slice thin five or six medium-sized onions and 
fry brown in tablespoon butter, add two or three tablespoons flour, or 
rice- flour makes it more delicate, and when latter is browned add 
slowly pint and a half boiling water, and a bunch of sweet herbs as 
given in Bouillon ; let boil up and then place on back of stove and 
simmer slowly an hour and a half. Then add three pints boiling 
milk or part cream, and four tablespoons mashed potato, mixed 
with a little milk or cream till smooth and rather thin. Let boil 
few minutes. Season to taste, adding teaspoon sugar and half pint 
of Croutons and serve hot. If wished richer use stock instead of 



SOUPS. 839 

water and a little chopped celery added gives a delicious flavor. 
Boiled rice may be added instead of potato, and it may be served 
without either, adding half cup soaked barley with stock or water. 

Ox Tail Soup. — Saw the tail in thin round slices, cook slowly 
two hours in hot Avater, skim out slices and add to three quarts 
Plain Bouillon. In the meantime have carrots, turnips, onion etc., 
cut with a round cutter, as an apple corcr, into lozenge shape pieces, 
about a pint in all, and cook them half an hour in a little water, add 
to soup. Add brown butter and flour thickening in small quantity, 
let soup simmer slowly until it becomes smootli and clear again, 
and skim until all fat is removed. Season with salt and cayenne. 
Serve a slice or two of ox tail and some of the vegetables in each 
plate. When a soup like the foregoing has not a clear syrup-like 
sort of thickness or body, but is dull, like flour gravy it may be 
cleared by longer simmering and adding more stock with some 
cold tomato juice, or lemon juice, or even cold water, and skimming 
from the side. If not already light brown add a spoonful of Cara- 
mel. Some do not use the extra stock but separate ox tail at the 
joints, or cut in thin slices, and place in a gallon cold water with 
two slices ham and any vegetables wished, cut in thin slices. Sim- 
mer three or four hours till meat is tender, strain and serve with 
pieces of the ox tail in each dish. 

Oyster Soup. — Put one quart stock, White Stock is nicest, in 
kettie.'or water may be used ; add oyster liquor from quart of oys- 
ters, having drained latter in colander, pouring over them a half 
pint of the hot stock ; skim if necessary, put in oysters, let just come 
to a boil, set on back of range, stir in half cup crushed oyster crack- 
ers, three tablespoons butter, salt and white pepper to taste, and 
then quart milk, which has been boiled in custard kettle ; or the 
milk may be placed in tureen and the soup poured over. Some 
sprinkle a little minced parsley over just before serving. If wished 
very nice, the oysters may be first scalded in their liquor, taken out 
and bearded and placed in tureen. To a pint of stock, add the 
beards and strained liquor and simmer half an hour; strain, add 
three pints of stock, let come to boiling point, season as above, add 
half pint boiling cream, pour over oysters and serve at once. By 
cooking the beards a stronger flavor is procured and the oysters are 
more delicate without them. For Mock Oyster Soup., take one 
teacup codfish, cut in half-inch squares. Freshen by covering with 
cold water, let it come to a boil, then pour off and add cup water, 
quart sweet milk, cup sweet cream, tablespoon corn-starch, stirred 
smooth in a little cold milk, lump of butter size of an egg, pepper, 
and salt to taste. Serve with crackers or toast. 

Parsnip Soup. — Brown three or four sliced parsnips in sauce- 
pan with tablespoon or two of butter, cooking them slowly, adding 



840 SOUPS. 

a gill stock and when they are tender add three gills more and cook 
half an hour; rub through puree sieve and add quart stock, let boil 
up once and serve. 

Pea Soup. — Boil three pints shelled green pease in three quarts 
water ; when quite soft, mash through colander, adding a little water 
to free the pulp from skins ; return pulp to water in which it was 
boiled, add head of lettuce chopped, and half a pint young pease ; 
boil half an hour, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with 
two tablespoons butter rubbed into a little flour. Serve with bits of 
toasted bread. The soup, when done, should be as thick as cream. 
Some omit the lettuce. Or cook pint of pease till tender in two 
quarts boiling water, add two tablespoons butter, salt, white pepper 
and half pint cream or rich milk, tablespoon minced parsley and 
teaspoon sugar with a little thickening of corn-starch. Place on 
back of stove and add beaten yolks of one or two eggs and serve. 
With Carrots, add with the pease, half pint carrots cut in thin 
slices, as for Julienne Soup, and a pint more water and finish as 
above. With Spinach, add to pease one pint spinach prepared as 
for cooking ; or for a Triple Soup, use all three vegetables with 
three quarts water and finish as above. To make richer use Plain 
Bouillon instead of the water. With Onions, boil pint shelled 
pease tender, with a bunch parsley and two young onions in a very 
little water ; rub through sieve and add two quarts any stock ; let it 
come just to boiling point and serve, as if boiled after the puree is 
added it is not of as fine color. For a Hasty Soup use cold cooked 
pease in same way. For Split Pea Soup, cut three-quarters pound 
of any kind of meat, odd pieces will do, in dice, always adding a 
little ham ; put in a gallon bean-pot with an onion, carrot, table- 
spoon rice and three gills split pease ; fill with cold water, put on 
cover and bake in oven three hours and a half Or soak a cup split 
pease four or five hours, drain and add them to three quarts stock ; 
Avhen boiling add somechoppedcarrot, celery and onion, with bunch 
of herbs if wished, and cook an hour. The pease should partly boil 
away and thicken soup, while some of them still remain distinct ; 
Avhen this is not satisfactorily accomplished, add a spoonful of flour 
thickening. Season with salt and pepper, take out bunch of herbs, 
add a small lump of butter and serve. Puree of pea soup can be 
made as directed for puree of beans. It is an English custom to 
dry mint and crumble it over the top of pea soup. Bean Soup can 
be made in same way. 

Pheasant Soup. — Cut up two pheasants and brown them with 
four tablespoons butter and two slices of ham ; put in soup kettle 
with two large onions sliced, half head celery and three quarts of 
Plain Stock and simmer two hours. Strain, pound the breasts with 
the crumbs of two rolls, previously soaked, and hard-boiled yolks of 
two eggs ; add to the soup, let boil up once and serve. This can be 



sonps, 841 

made with the bones, pieces, etc., of the pheasants after being 
cooked, but of course will not be so rich. Any cold game can be 
used in this way. 

Pot Au Feu. — Take a good-sized soup bone with plenty of 
meat on it, extract marrow and place in a pot on back of range, 
covering beef with three or more quarts cold Avater ; cover tightly, 
and allow to simmer slowly all day long. The next day, before 
heating, remove cake of grease from top, and add a large onion 
(previously stuck full of whole cloves, and then roasted in the oven 
till of a rich brown color), adding tomatoes or any other vegetables 
which one may fancy. A leek or a section of garlic adds much to 
the flavor. Rice may be added, or vermicelli for a change. Just 
before serving, add a teaspoon Caramel, giving a peculiar flavor and 
richer color to soup. 

Potato Soup. — To gallon water add six large potatoes chopped 
fine, one teacup rice, lump of butter size of an egg, one tablespoon 
flour. Work butter and flour together, and add one teacup sweet 
cream just before taking from the fire. Boil one hour. Or With 
Milk, boil four large potatoes in water till tender, drain, mash and 
add three pints milk in which have been boiled an onion and two 
stalks celery ; season with salt, tablespoon but- 
ter and white pepper, adding cup cream as 
above, or whipping it and putting in tureen ; rub 
through puree sieve and serve at once. Some 
parboil the onions in water then add to pota- 
toes and boil all together ; mash and add the 
boiling milk with a little sago, cook fifteen 
minutes, stirring all the time, and serve with- ^"^* ^'"®- 

out rubbing through sieve. A little butter or cream may be added, 
but however made,it must be served as soon as ready to be at its best. 

Pumpkin Soup. — Put a scant pint of peeled and sliced pump- 
kin into a saucepan with six stalks celery chopped fine, tablespoon 
drippings or butter, teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper, and 
three pints boiling water ; boil until vegetables can be rubbed 
through sieve ; return to saucepan, set it over fire, add pint boiling 
cream or milk, boil up once and serve with Croutons and some add 
a little thickening, and teaspoon sugar is an addition. Winter 
squash may be used same. 

Rabhit Soup. — Make soup with the legs and shoulders of the 
rabbit, and keep nice pieces for a delicious entree. Put former into 
warm water, and draw the blood ; when quite clean, put them in a 
stewpan, with bunch of herbs, and a teacup or rather more, of veal 
stock, or water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add three 
pints of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbit, pick the 




842 SOUPS. 

meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white ; put bones 
back in the liquor, add three stalks celery, one carrot, half an onion, 
blade mace, salt and white pepper to taste, and simmer for two 
hours ; skim and strain. Add the meat, reheat and serve. 

nice Soup. — Cook half cup rice in water till tender, add two 
quarts milk, or more if wished thinner, and half cup raisins, tea- 
spoon or two sugar and salt to taste ; set on back of stove and cook 
thirty or forty minutes or till raisins are tender and milk and rice 
well blended. Or put rice in boiling water five minutes, then drain 
and add it to two quaTts boiling stock with half a bay leaf and 
cook till tender, season and serve. Rice can be used as a thicken- 
ing to any soup wished. 

Sago Soup. — Wash three ounces sago in boiling water, and add 
it gradually to two quarts nearly boiling stock. Simmer half an 
hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up yolks of three eggs, 
add to them half pint boiling cream, stir quickly into the soup with 
teaspoon sugar and serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or 
the eggs will curdle. This soup is thought to act as tonic to the 
chest and throat. 

Sheep's- Head Soup. — Wash and clean a nice head carefully, 
put it into kettle with water hardly sufficient to cover it ; when 
head is heated through, put in water almost to top of kettle. 
When very tender, which can be told by probing it with a fork, re- 
move, strip meat from bones, and putbones back into soup, together 
with an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs, and simmer till well 
flavored, then add the meat which has been cut into small portions, 
and serve. Or for Baked Soup, put head and feet into jar with two 
quarts water, an onion, some sweet herbs, and a seasoning of pepper 
and salt. Cover closely and bake. It can be served whole, or the 
meat may be removed from head, cut in pieces, and put with soup. 

Spinach Soup. — Cook in covered saucepan with a little salt, 
but no water, till tender ; squeeze out moisture and rub through a 
sieve. Add this pulp to as much stock as Avill make of consistency 
wished, let come to a boil, season and pour in tureen in which table- 
spoon butter has been placed. Making the spinach into balls and 
placing them in tureen and pouring over any hot stock or bouillon 
is a more elegant way of serving it. 

Spring Soup. — To three quarts stock put an equal amount of 
white and yellow carrots cut in fancy shapes and let it boil slowly 
for an hour, then add cup string beans, cut in small pieces and as 
much asparagus, also cut in small pieces, and a handful of pease. 
A half an hour latter add some cauliflower broken in small pieces, 
and let it boil until it is soft. Salt and pepper to taste. 



SOUPS. 



843 



Sorrel Soicp.— After thoroughly washing leaves of garden sor- 
rel put in kettle or stewpan, with no more water than adheres to 
them ; cover closely, and stew until tender, stirring occasionally, 
but covering each time. Have ready soaked some dried white beans, 
enough to make soup as thick as gruel ; put them on fire in cold 
water, and boil until beans are veri/ tender. Put in bones froni 
roasts, steaks, or fowls, and any pieces of cooked or uncooked 
meat and a small piece of lean salt, pork, if liked. Any roast meat 
gravy or stock can be used instead of meat ; add an onion, a sprig 
of thyme, salt, pepper and a bay leaf. Skim out bones, etc., rub 
beans through sieve and add to soup with enough of the cooked sor- 
rel to make it taste pleasantly sour, let boil few moments and serve. 

Tomato Soup— Clear tomato soup should be as bright as wine, 
not highly colored or highly flavored, but thoroughly good, and 
should never be made until really wanted, as freshness of flavor is 
a matter of first importance. Prepare stock from leg of beef; that 
from bones and odd pieces will not do for this soup ; it must be 
strong and of a clear golden-brown color and without a particle of 
grease ; such as maybe secured by stewing about six pounds of leg 
of beef slowly for one or two hours in three quarts of water ; then 
pour off the stock, let stand till cold and the meat may be put on 
again to make a second stock for other purposes. To about three 
pints of this stock add from eight to twelve ripe tomatoes, accord- 
ing to size, cut in slices, or canned tomatoes may be used, one med- 
ium-sized onion, sliced, and a fern slices of carrot and turnip ; boil 
half an hour and then strain off, taking care not to press any of the 
vegetables, which must not be over-cooked. To the clear soup add 
tablespoon of sugar and vinegar, one of Worcester sauce, and a lit- 
tle cayenne. If soup is not clear and bright, strain it through a 
folded towel in colander. Or skim and strain one gallon of stock 
made from nice fresh beef; take three quarts tomatoes, remove skm 
and cut out hard center, put through a fine sieve and add to the 
stock ; make a paste of butter and flour, and, when the stock begins 
to boil, stir in half a teacup, taking care not to have it lumpy ; boil 
twenty minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Two 
quarts canned tomatoes will answer. Some rub through a sieve and 
add teaspoon sugar, and others always stew the tomatoes as for 
cooking, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter, and then add to the 
stock, claiming the soup is richer and finer flavored by so doing ; 
and onions, carrots, and turnips may be added as m first recipe, 
cooking an hour and a half and rubbing all through puree sieve, then 
finish as above. With Cabbage, to gallon water add quart each to- 
matoes and cabbage, two onions, four good-sized potatoes, all chop- 
ped fine ; cook till tender, add two tablespoons butter with salt and 
pepper to taste and serve with toast and butter. With Corn, to a_ soup 
bone and water, add quart tomatoes, an onion, cucumber sliced, two 
ears grated corn, salt, pepper and pinch cayenne. Boil four hours, then 



844 SOUPS. 

add tablespoon corn-starch dissolved in cold water ; strain before 
serving. With Rice, to two quarts stock add pint fresh or canned 
tomatoes, and cup boiled rice. Cook slowly half an hour and season 
to taste. Other vegetables may first be added, cooking an hour, 
then adding as above. For Meatless Tomato Soup, one quart each 
tomatoes and water; stew till soft; add teaspoon soda, allow to 
effervesce, and add quart of boiling milk, salt, butter, and pepper to 
taste, with a little rolled cracker ; boil a few minutes and serve. 
Some do not use any water either with fresh or canned tomatoes, 
when cooking as above. 

Turkey/ Soup. — After a roasted turkey has been served a por- 
tion of the meat still adheres to the bones, especially about the 
neck ; "drumsticks" are left, or parts of the wings, and pieces rarely 
called for at table. If there is three-fourths of a cupful or more 
left, cut off carefully and reserve for Force-meat Balls. Break bones 
apart and with stuffing still adhering to them, put in soup kettle 
with three quarts water, tablespoon salt, a pod of red pepper broken 
into pieces, three or four blades of celery cut into half inch 
pieces, a bay leaf, three medium-sized potatoes, and two onions 
all sliced. If dinner hour is one o'clock the kettle should be over 
fire before eight o'clock in the morning; or if the dinner is at six in 
the evening, it should be on by twelve o'clock. Let it boil slowly, 
but constantly until about half an hour before dinner ; lift out bones, 
skim off fat, strain through colander and return to kettle. There 
will now be but little more than Uiree pints of the soup. If more 
than this is desired, add a pint of hot milk or milk and cream to- 
gether ; but it will be very nice without this addition even though a 
little more water be added. Prepare Forcemeat Balls by chop- 
ping the scraps of turkey very fine ; take half a teaspoon cracker- 
crumbs, smoothly rolled, a small saltspoon of cayenne pepper, about 
double the quantity of salt, a little grated lemon peel and half a 
teasi)Oon powdered summer savory or thyme ; mix these together 
and add a raw beaten egg to bind them. Roll mixture into balls 
about the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the soup about ten 
minutes before serving. Have ready in tureen a large tablespoon of 
parsley, cut very fine. Pour in soup and send to table hot. If 
Force-meat Balls are not liked, boil two eggs for half an hour, cut in 
slices, put them in tureen with parsley, and pour soup over them ; 
or slices of bread (not too thick) can be toasted, buttered on both 
sides, cut into inch squares, and substituted for the sliced eggs. 
If wished richer use stock instead of water and some use a little 
thickening of arrowroot or corn-starch, some vermicelli or macaroni 
and a tablespoon of any highly flavored sauce or catsup. In this 
or any soup some of the ingredients may be omitted if not at hand 
and soup will still be good. 

Turnip Soup. — Put two thin slices nice lean ham in cold water 
to cook ; in half hour add four thinly sliced turnips with more cold 



SOUPS. • 845 

water ; as soon as tender, add half as many sliced potatoes as tur- 
nips. These will cook in twenty minutes ; season with salt, pepper, 
and a piece of butter ; cup cream improves it, and the ham may first 
be fried in kettle. Or melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, add 
the sliced turnip as above with two onions also sliced ; when browned 
add cup water and cook an hour, then add two quarts any stock and 
simmer half an hour ; rub through a sieve, reheat and serve. The 
cream may be added to this also. If wanted a white soup do not 
brown the vegetables. For a Swiss Soup, cook six potatoes and 
three turnips sliced in six quarts water five hours or until perfectly 
dissolved and the consistency of Pea Soup, filling up as it boils 
away ; add butter size of an egg, season with salt and pepper, and 
serve. A small piece salt pork, a bone or bit of veal or lamb, and 
an onion may be added to vary this soup. For Royal Soup, cut the 
turnips into very small round balls and simmer till tender in two 
quarts of Bouillon ; add half cup strong veal stock and teaspoon 
sugar and pour in tureen in which pint of Croutons have been placed. 

Turtle Soup. — Day before the soup is required, hang up turtle 
by hind fins, cut off" head, and leave to bleed and drain all night. 
In morning lay on its back on table, cut off fore fins, separate cal- 
ipash (upper shell), from calipee (under shell), beginning at hind 
fins ; be very careful in cutting flesh off the spine not to touch the 
gall bag, hold the knife sloping towards the bones. Cut off all fat 
that will be found adhering to calipash, and lean of calipee, then cut 
off hind fins. Remove all meat from calipee, and also from fins, cut 
into pieces two inches square, and put into a saucepan. Hold cali- 
pash, calipee and fins in scalding — not boiling — water for a few min- 
utes, which will cause the shells to separate easily. This done, cut 
shells into pieces six inches square, and put them into kettle with 
some light veal stock. Boil until meat is tender, take out and put into 
cold water, free meat from bones, and cut into inch-square pieces. 
Return bones to stock, boil gently two hours and then this portion of 
the stock is fit for use. Cut fins into pieces an inchAvide, boil in stock 
with an onion, two or three cloves, a bunch of parsley or thyme and 
a sprig of sweet basil and marjoram. When these are tender, take 
out and add this stock to the other. Now put lean meat into sauce- 
pan with a pint of Madeira or Sherry ; or water and Tarragon or 
plain vinegar half and half, four tablespoons chopped green shallot, 
two sliced lemons, a bunch of thyme, marjoram, sweet basil and 
savory — about a tablespoon of each Avhen chopped, with double the 
quantity of parsley. Pound together one nutmeg, twelve allspice, 
one blade of mace, five or six cloves and a tablespoon each pepper 
and salt ; add teaspoon curry-powder, and put two-thirds of this to 
the lean meat, with a quarter pound fresh butter and a quart stock. 
Let stew gently until meat is done. While turtle is in preparation, 
have a large knuckle of ham cut into small dice and put into a stew- 



846 SOUPS. 

pan with four large onions sliced, six bay leaves, three blades mace, 
twelve allspice, three-fourths pound butter, and cover with veal 
stock. Let this all simmer together till onions are melted, or like 
jelly. Shred fine a small bunch of basil, a large one of thyme, sav- 
ory and marjoram, and put to the onions, keeping them as green as 
possible. When done, sift into it a little flour, enough to thicken 
the soup. Then by degrees add stock in which, calipash and cali- 
pee were boiled, and the seasoning stock made from the lean turtle 
meat. Boil all together one hour, and then rub through a very fine 
strainer or woolen cloth, add salt, cayenne, and lemon to suit the 
taste. Now put in the meat of the turtle and let all boil together 
half an hour and serve. These directions are for a turtle of about 
fift}^ pounds, and the ingredients can be increased or diminished 
according to size. Yolks of hard-boiled eggs are nice placed in 
tureen before adding soup, or make Force-meat Balls as follows ; 
take about' a pound of fleshy part of a leg of veal, scrape off all the 
meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the 
same quantity of bread-crumbs. When well soaked, squeeze it, and 
put into a mortar with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a 
little butter, the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne, 
salt, and spices, and pound very fine ; then thicken mixture with 
two whole eggs and yolk of another. ■ Try this stuffing in boiling 
hot water, to ascertain its consistency ; if it is too thin, add another 
yolk. When perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped 
parsley. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the 
yolk of an egg ; poach it in boiling salted water, and when very 
hard drain on a sieve, and put it into the soup. Before serving 
squeeze the juice of two or three lemons upon a little cayenne and 
add to soup. For Mock Terrapin Sou/), use small lobe liver, about 
a cup full, calves' liver best; cut in very small pieces, less than half 
an inch square, boil in hot water half an hour with teaspoon salt, 
then put heaping tablespoon butter and flour in saucepan, stir till 
mixed brown, then add water in which liver was boiled, half cup at 
a time stirring smooth, adding more hot water if needed to make 
soup right consistency, less thick than gravy ; season with salt, pep- 
per, a dust of cayenne pepper and very little pinch of nutmeg, pow- 
dered cloves and allspice. Put in sliced liver, let boil just once, and 
then serve and with it a little dish of finely-chopped lemon. 

Veal Soup. — To about three pounds of a well-broken joint of 
veal, add four quarts water, let boil, skim and simmer two or three 
hours ; prepare one-fourth pound macaroni by boiling by itself with 
enough water to cover and season to taste with salt and pepper, and 
add the macaroni with the water in which it was boiled. Onions 
or celery may be added for flavoring. 

Yegetdble Soup. — After boiling a soup bone or piece of beef un- 
til done, add to the broth boiling water to make the amount of soup 



SOUPS. 847 

wanted, and when boiling again add a large handful of cabbage cut 
fine as for slaw, a half pint of tomatoes, canned or fresh ; peel and 
slice and add three large or four small onions,two or three potatoes and 
some use a half teacup of dried or half pint of green corn (if dried 
it should be soaked). Let boil from half to three-quarters of an 
hour ; if thickening is wished stir an egg or yolk with a large spoon- 
ful milk and teaspoon flour, and put in five or ten minutes before 
taking off; this makes it very rich. Serve with crackers. Or Witk- 
out Meat^ take three each onions, carrots, and turnips, one small 
cabbage, one pint tomatoes ; chop all the vegetables except the to- 
matoes very fine, have ready in a porcelain kettle three quarts boil- 
ing water, put in all except cabbage and tomatoes and simmer 
for half an hour, then add the chopped cabbage and tomatoes 
(the tomatoes previously stewed), also a bunch of sweet herbs. Let 
soup boil for twenty minutes, strain through sieve, rubbing all the 
vegetables through. Beat two tablespoons best butter and one of 
flour to a cream. Now pepper and salt soup to taste, and add a 
teaspoon white sugar, a half cup of sweet cream if at hand and then 
stir in the butter and flour ; let boil up and it is ready for table. 
Serve with Croutons, or poached eggs one in each dish. Or slice 
cabbage, carrots, turnips, parsnips, and cook as above, always re- 
membering to have water or stock boiling in which vegetables are 
placed ; when tender add stewed tomatoes rubbed through a sieve or 
not as wished ; whenever tomatoes are used in any soup it is a very 
great improvement to first stew them, either fresh or canned, seas- 
oning with butter, salt and pepper ; this makes a little more trouble 
but the soup is ver}^ much finer flavored. When done, if soup is 
wished richer add any stock on hand till flavored as wished, boil up 
once and serve. Cooking the vegetables tender in water is more 
economical than using stock as in adding latter at last, only a small 
cjuantity need be used to produce required flavor ; or recooking a 
soup bone adding vegetables as soon as it boils makes a nice soup. 
When a thickening is added some put in a teaspoon of mustard 
with the flour, etc. Celery cooked with the vegetables is always a 
nice addition and a little flavoring of onion is almost a necessity. A 
slice of well toasted bread is added with the vegetables by some, 
rubbing all through sieve and when reheating adding teaspoon or 
two of some bottled sauce. With So^ir Cream, to three or four 
quarts any vegetable soup add cup sour cream just before serving. 

Vermicelli Soup. — Put one chicken trussed for boiling in ket- 
tle with a pound or so of bacon and three quarts water and cook 
til! tender; in the meantime cook two or three ounces vermicelli in 
a little water or stock till quite tender ; take out chicken and l)ac()n 
on dish for serving ; add vermicelli to soup and serve. Some stick 
eight or ten cloves in bacon. 

Weimar Soup. — Cut any i)ieces of corned l)eef or salt pork, 
about two pounds, in small pieces, add two or three quarts water 



848 SOUPS. 

and simmer two or three hours ; add three each carrots, parsnips, 
turnips, potatoes and stalks celery and one small cabbage, all cut in 
thin small slices. Add gill oatmeal, cook an hour and serve with- 
out straining. Split pease may be used adding them with the meat. 
The meat may need soaking if very salt. Any Bouillon or stock 
may be made of corned beef using more water with it when prepar- 
ing for serving, and always when boiling corned beef save the broth 
for either soup or gravy. A soup can be made like the Weimar of 
fresh meat. 

White Soup. — Cover bones from cooked chickens ; three pounds 
veal bones, clicked in pieces, pound lean veal cut in small pieces, 
a minced onion and bunch parsley with cold water and liquor in 
which chickens Avere cooked if boiled. Simmer two or three hours, 
strain, return to kettle, season, boil up, skim, and add pint milk and 
as much cooked farina as wished ; place on back of stove, simmer 
ten minutes and then add a beaten egg first mixed well with a cup 
of the soup, keep covered a moment or two and then serve. Or cook 
gently an hour and a quarter a half pint each white turnip and cel- 
ery and half a gill onion, all cut in small pieces Avith a blade of 
mace in one gallon \Vhite Stock. Strain, reheat, add tablespoon 
corn-starch mixed smoothly in water, let boil, add cup sweet cream 
and season with salt and white pepper. Add egg as above and serve. 

Wynioun Soup. — Put three pounds neck of mutton, meat sliced 
and bones broken, in three quarts w^ater, with two each carrots and 
turnips sliced and cook four hours ; take out meat and bones, rub 
soup and vegetables through sieve, let cool, take off fat, reheat, 
season and add half cup barley, soaked overnight, and quart green 
pease ; simmer half an hour, add teaspoon sugar and serve. Or 
cook half cup barley in quart water till tender, add quarter of a 
turnip, if large, a small onion and two potatoes, all chopped fine ; 
when cooked add more water and stock from boiled corned beef till 
well flavored and seasoned. Remove to back of stove, add pint 
cream or milk and serve. 

Balls for Soup. — There are many different articles served in 
soup besides those given, such as fancy letters, stars, triangles, etc., 
which may be purchased, and also the French Paste which comes in 
squares in little boxes. This is used more for coloring and flavor- 
ing; place in tureen and pour soupover it, stirring assoup is served. 
Among the different balls used are the Egg Balls^ mix raw egg 
with just enough flour or corn-starch to make into round balls, then 
dro-p into soup and boil ten minutes. A little milk, a teaspoon to 
one egg, is an improvement ; also a sprinkle of salt. Or for two 
quarts soup make balls by boiling one egg hard ; put yolk of it in 
a bowl, pound to a paste and break in a raw egg yolk, add a dust 
cayenne pepper, tablespoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, and flour to 



SOUPS. 



849 



roll into balls with the hands about a teaspoon. Put dry flour on 
both hands, use saltspoon of mixture, or make a long roll and cut 
ofif ends and make into balls ; have deep saucepan half lull ol boil- 
ing water, put in egg balls and let them boil till they come to top, 
then take out wth strainer, put in soup when ready to serve, or some 
cook them in soup. They are also nice served with other dishes ; or 
to yolks of three eggs use one raw yolk and omit the salad oil. 
Some use the raw white of the egg rather than yolk and also care- 
fully fry brown in butter or any nice fat ; then place in tureen and 
pour over the soup. For Farina Balls, boil quart milk m custard 
kettle, add salt and tablespoon butter, and thicken with farina. 
Cook well, and when cold stir one whole egg and one yolk through 
the mixture. Make into balls or shape with spoon, and drop m the 
boiling soup just before serving. For Force-meat Balls, add to 
pound chopped beef one egg, a small lump butter, a cup or less of 
bread-crumbs; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with the 
water from stewed meat ; make in balls and fry brown ; or take slices 
of raw veal and a little salt pork, and chop very fine with a slice of 
wheat bread. Season highly with pepper, salt, tomato catsup, and 
chopped lemon peel, moisten with two well-beaten eggs, and roll 
into balls as large as a- walnut, with floured hands. Fry the balls 
in butter to a dark brown, andlet them cool ; turn into the soup and 
boil about ten minutes. Or for Veal Balls take half pint each 
minced cooked veal and bread-crumbs with half gill chopped suet 
seasoned with salt, pepper and any sweet herbs liked. Add beaten 
egg sufficient to make into balls and fry brown. These are used for 
the richer soups such as Calf s-head, etc. For Force-meat Balls for 
Fish Soups, pick meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, 
with the soft parts, in a bowl ; add six stalks boiled celery, the yolk 
of a hard-boiled egg, salt, cayenne and little mace, and gill or more 
of bread-crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is well mixed ; 
melt two tablespoons butter and add with two well-beaten eggs ; 
make into balls about an inch in diameter, and fry brown. Place 
in tureen, add soup and serve. Some add half an anchovy, pounded. 
For Oerman Balls, mix together butter and cracker-crumbs into a 
firm round ball and drop into soup a short time before serving. 
These are especially nice for Chicken Soup. Putting slices of 
lemon and hard-boiled eggs in tureen and adding soup makes a 
dainty dish, and where the eggs are not sliced, but simply the whole 
boiled yolk used it is certainly "fit to set before the king." 

Croutons. — These are diff'erent shapes of bread, without crust, 
cut and fried or toasted. For Soups, cut in dice about third of an 
inch square or even less and fry in butter in frying-pan or in a ket- 
tle of smoking-hot fat like fritters till a golden brown, drain and add 
to tureen or put a spoonful in each dish and add soup. Some 
simplv toast the bread, then cut it; or butter or not as wished, ciit 
and toast in oven, serving as above. Crackers crisped in oven are 



850 SOUPS. 

nice for Oyster soup. For Entrees^ cut bread in heart-shaped 
pieces about two inches long and half an inch thick and fry or toast 
as above. For Vegetahles^ cut in triangular pieces one and a half 
inches long, same thickness and fry as above. 

Dumplings. — These are a nice addition to soups and are made 
in many ways, but however made, a little cold water should be added 
to soup to stop the boiling just before they are put in (there are one 
or two exceptions) and then the soup must not cease boiling for at 
least ten or fifteen minutes when they will be done ; it is also very 
important the cover fits closely that steam does not escape. For 
Buckeye Dumrplings., take half pint sweet milk, two eggs, and 
enough flour to make stiff batter ; drop off spoon into the soup and 
cook ten minutes. For Marrow Dmnplhigs^ which are very deli- 
cate and can be varied in seasoning to suit any soup, beat one 
ounce uncooked marrow and tablespoon butter to a cream ; add two 
well-beaten eggs and half pint bread-crumbs which should previously 
well be soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. 
When well mixed add teaspoon each minced parsley and onion with 
salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, omitting the minced onions 
where the flavor is very much disliked, and form the mixture into 
small round dumplings. Drop these into boiling soup and let them 
simmer for about half an hour. Serve in soup and they are also very 
nice with roast meats or salad. Grated lemon peel and mace make a 
nice seasoning and they are ready to serve as soon as they rise to .sur- 
face ; butter may be omitted if wished. For Suet Dumplings.^ take 
pint and a half flour, two thirds of a pint beef suet, half teaspoon 
baking powder, saltspoon salt, half pint of cold water. Mix in a 
large bowl, the suet, finely chopped, and flour ; add to this the bak- 
ing powder and salt and knead into a dry dough Avith the water. 
Divide this dough in small pieces, roll each piece in a little ball and 
throw them one by one into the boiling soup twenty minutes before 
serving. The dropping of balls cools the boiling soup and care 
should therefore be taken to wait an instant between the putting in 
of each one that the liquid may boil up, otherwise the balls will 
burst apart. This is one of the exceptions to general rule. For 
Sussex Dumplings, mix quart flour with half pint water and little 
salt making a smooth paste ; form into balls and drop in soup. For 
Quick Dumnlings, take pint of flour, measured before sifting ; half 
teaspoon soda, teaspoon cream tartar, one of sugar and half of salt, 
and mix thoroughly, sifting once or twice, and a teacup milk. 
Sprinkle a little flour on board. Turn the dough (which should 
have been stirred into a smooth ball with a spoon) on it, roll half 
inch thick, cut into small cakes, and cook ten minutes, and when 
these are added to soup have it boiling. Light biscuit dough makes 
nice dumplings and when used roll thin, cut and roll into balls and 
finish as directed, although some prefer to steam them and then 
place in tureen and pour soup over them. 



SOUPS. 



851 



Mixed Spices. — These with herbs prepared by professional 
cooks, may be had in large cities, and save much trouble. For the 
benefit of those who cannot obtain them we give two of the best 
recipes. Take one ounce each nutmegs and mace, two ounces each 
cloves and white pepper-corns ; an ounce each sweet basil, marjoram 
and thyme, and half an ounce bay leaves. The herbs must of course 
be previously dried as directed, page 163. Pound the spices to crack 
them, then put all between two sheets white paper folded to cover 
them tightly and put in warm place to become perfectly dry. Then 
pound quickly, put through a sieve and put away in tightly corked 
bottles. Or mix one ounce each lemon-thyme, winter savory, sweet 
marjoram and basil, two ounces parsley,and an ounce lemon peel,all 
previously dried ; pound, sift and bottle as above. Mint, sage, pars- 
ley and all herbs should be dried, pounded and sifted and bottled 
separately for winter use. Black pepper, when prepared as a con- 
diment, should be powdered not ground, that all heating may be 
avoided, and the volatile oil and fine aromatic flavor retained. 



852 



VEGETABLES. 



VEG-ETABLES. 



All vegetables are better cooked in soft water, provided it is 
clean and pure ; if hard water is used, put in small pinch of soda. 
The water should be freshly drawn, and should only be put over 
fire in time to reach the hoiling point before the hour for putting in 
vegetables, as standing and long boiling frees the gases and renders 
the water insipid. The fresher all vegetables are, the more Avhole- 
some. After being washed thoroughly, put them in the toiling 
water using only enough to cook them, as when much is to be 
drained off some of the sweetness of the vegetables is lost. If they 
are fresh they will not need to be placed in cold water before cook- 
ing ; but if not so, then let stand half an hour in it, but some of the 
flavor is thereby lost. Keep water boiling all the time, and if more 
has to be added, let it be boiling ; do not cook too long, only till 
tender, as too long cooking is very injurious. 
This is true of all vegetables ; they must be tho7'- 
oughhj done, that is cooked tender, one can eas- 
ily test them, and should then be served at once. 
Where there is danger from burning, the kettle 
illustrated is of great service. It is very nice for 
spinach, etc., where it is cooked without water. 
While all are best fresh, green corn and pease 
must be so to be in their prime. The proportion of salt in cooking 
vegetables is a heaping tablespoon to every gallon of water, added 
when half done ; after vegetables are added, press down with a 
wooden spoon, skim when necessary, and for green vegetables, such 
as asparagus, pease, beans, etc., do not put cover on the kettle or 
saucepan. If one is very particular about preserving their color ; 
when done, drain and place in cold salted water a moment or two or till 




Vegetable Kettle. 



VEGETABLES. 



853 



ready to use, then reheat, season and serve. Sometimes pease, beans, 
etc., do not boil easily and it has usually been imputed to the cold- 
ness of the season, or the rains. This peculiar notion is erroneous. 
The difficulty of boiling them soft arises from an excess of gypsum 
imbibed during their growth. To correct this, throw a small quant- 
ity of carbonate of soda (common baking soda) in the pot with the 
vegetables. For keeping vegetables fresh for present use, see Keep- 
ing Fruits and Vegetables. Never split onions, turnips and carrots, 
but slice them in rings cut across the fiber, as they thus cook tender 
much quicker. If the home garden furnishes the supply of pease, 
spinach, green beans, asparagus, etc., pick them in the morning 
early, when the dew is on, and put them in a clean cool place, near 
ice if possible, A piece of red pepper the size of finger nail, dropped 
into meat or vegetables when first beginning to cook, will aid greatly 
in killing the unpleasant odor. Remember this for boiled cabbage, 
green beans, onions, mutton and chicken. All vegetables should 
be thoroughly cooked, and require a longer time late in their season. 
Cabbage, potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions and beets are 
injured for some by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also in- 
jure the flavor of the meat. In 
cutting vegetables in fancy shapes 
a set of vegetable cutters that 




come nicely packed in a box are 
very convenient. The "regula- 
vegetabie cattets. tlou" grccus such as daudelions, 

spinach, sorrel, horseradish and beet tops, mustard, borage, chicory, 
and corn salad are sometimes cooked alone and sometimes with 
salt pork as preferred. In preparing them, first wash them leaf by 
leaf in warm water, rather more than tepid, having a dish of cold 
water to place them in immediately. The warm water more cer- 
tainly cleans the leaf and does not destroy the crispness if they are 
placed at once in cold water with a little salt in it. But whether 
washed in warm water or cold water, take them leaf by leaf, break- 
ing the heads off, not cutting them, and they will often need two or 
three waters as they are sometimes quite sandy. To guard against 
insects some put a little salt, tablespoon to a quart, in the water in 
which they are washed, using cold water for this. Steaming is a 
very easy and satisfactory way in which to cook most vegetables, 
especially those of a watery nature and many prefer it to boiling. 



854 VEGETABLES. 



The patent steamers are very convenient as two or more vegetables 
can be steamed at once without the mingling of flavors. These are 
some of the general suggestions for cooking vegetables but as there 
are so many individual ones each recipe will be a law unto itself. 



ArticJiokes. — There are two varieties ; the Jerusalem, resembl- 
ing potatoes, winch scrape, placing at once in cold, salted water in 
which a half gill vinegar has been added ; when ready to cook, place 
in boiling water to not quite cover and boil till tender, about half 
an hour, salting just before they are done. Drain and pour over a 
sauce made by browning in frying pan three tablespot)ns butter and 
one of flour, adding half pint vinegar, a little salt, speck cayenne, 
half teaspoon sugar and boiling up once. This makes a dish much 
relished. They can also be mashed as potatoes, or Fried, by slic- 
ing very thin and placing in the vinegar water as above; drain off 
water, and season with pinch salt and pepper. Break eggs into a 
bowl, add three teaspoons salad oil and teaspoon (lour, mix thor- 
oughly, and pour over the artichokes ; etirring them with the hand 
lightly so as to cover every portion ofthtMii with the mixture. Fry 
very gently of a light gold color, drain on blotting paper, and pile 
them up in a white napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve. 
For the Cardoon Arti(;hoke in which the tops are what are used, 
wash artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects remain 
about them, and trim away leaves at bottom. Cut ott' stems and 
put tops into boiling water, to which have been added tablespoon 
salt and pinch soda. Keep saucepan uncovered, and let boil quickly 
until tender; ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in 
them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily removed. Take them 
out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or 
with a little White Sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter 
should accomi)any them. This vi^getable, unlik(^ any other, is bet- 
tor for being gathered two or three days; but they nuist be well 
soaked and washed previous to dressing. For Fried Artichokes^ 
boil as above and when tender, take up, rub over with lemon juice, 
remove the chokes and divide the bottoms ; dip each piece into bat- 
ter, fry in hot lard or dripping and serve, garnished with crisped 
parsley and accompanied with Drawn Butter Sauee. 

Asparaffus. — In gathering asparagus, never cut it off", but snap 
or break it ; in this way the white, woody part, which no boiling can 
make tender, is left in ground. Cook as Asparagus Toast on page 
58; or cut asparagus, when boiled, into little bits, leaving out white 
end, make gravy as in above recipe, put cut asparagus into a hot dish, 
and turn the gravy over and serve ; or use only a little w\ater, drain 
and add cream for the gravy. A simple manner of boiling aspara- 



VEGETABLES 865 



gus is to tic in a bundle, or some first wrap in cotton cloth and then 
tie, and set upright in a saucepan containing boiling water enough 
to reach nearly to the tender tips ; boil rapidly till tender ; lay a 
napkin on a hot platter, take out asparagus, drain for a moment, 
place on napkin, unwrap, and fold over the asparagus the corners of 
the napkin, and serve in this form, with White f; 
Sauce in a gravy-boat ; or On Toast^ by cooking ^| 
as above and then dip toast in asparagus water, ^•^"^" _ 
place on a hot dish and lay tlie asparagus on each ABparatsmon Toast. 
slice with bits of Imtter between the stalks. For Amlmshcd Aspara- 
gus or Asparagus Rolls^ cut off tender tops of fifty heads of aspar- 
agus ; boil and drain them. Have ready as many stale biscuits or 
rolls as there are persons to be served, from which you have cut a 
neat top slice and scooped out the inside. Set them in the oven to 
crisp, laying the tops beside them, that all may dry together. Mean- 
while boil the stalks in a little wnicr, skim out and add a cup of 
milk or cream, then beat in yolks of two eggs ; set over fire and stir 
till it thickens, when add a tablespoon butter, and season with salt 
and pepper. Into this put asparagus, minced fine and remove from 
fire at once. Fill the rolls with mixture, put on tops, fitting them 
carefully ; set in oven three minutes, after which arrange on a dish, 
and serve hot. More eggs can be used and any proportion of 
asparagus, sauce, etc., may bo made. This seems like an |elaborate 
dish, but it is not diflicult to make and in the early season is a nice 
way of making a small quantity serve quite a number. For Fri<Hl 
Asparagus, l)lanch it a cou])le of minutes, and then drain ; dip eacli 
])iece in batter and fry in hot fat. Wluui done, sprinkle with salt 
and serve hot. This is nice and easy to prepare. For Asparagus 
Pudding, boil tender the green tops of two bunches of asparagus, 
let cool, and cut up small. Beat together four eggs and tablespoon 
butter; add three of flour, cup milk, and the asparagus, with a seas- 
oning of salt and pepper and some add a tablespoon finely-minced 
boiled ham; put in a well-greased mold with atop, and cook in a 
pot of boiling water nearly two hours. Turn out on a dish and j)our 
a cup of brown butter over it. Pease Pudding vcidida same with 
green pease. Either are very delicious. For Asparagus Salad, 
boil and let cool in ice-box, and s(!rve with a sauce made of vinegar, 
pepper, and salt or an}^ Salad Dressing. For Asparagus Sauoe^cwi 
a pint of asparagus in half-inch pieces, boil tender, rub through 
sieve and add veal gravy mixed with yolks of eggs and a little salt 
and cayenne. For l^ggs mid Asparagus, cut tender asparagus into 
pieces half an inch long, and boil twenty minutes, then drain till 
dry, and put into a saucepan containinga cup of rich drawn butter; 
heat together to a boil, season with pepper and salt, and pour into 
a buttered dish. Break half a dozen eggs over the surface, put a 
bit of butter^ upon each, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put in 
the oven until the eggs are set. 



856 VEGETABLES. 



Butter Beans. — With a knife cut off the ends of pods and 
strings from both sides, being very careful to remove every shred ; 
cut every bean lengthwise, in two or three strips, and leave them for 
half an hour in cold water. Much more than cover them with boil- 
ing water; boil till perfectly tender. It is well to allow three hours 
for boiling. Drain well, return to kettle, and add a dressing of half 
a gill cream, one and a half ounces butter, one even teaspoon salt, 
and half a teaspoon pepper. I'his is suflicient for a quart of cooked 
beans. For String Beans, string, snap and wash two quarts beans, 
boil in plenty of water about fifteen minutes, drain off and put on 
again in about two quarts boiling water ; boil an hour and a half, 
and add salt and pepper just belbre taking uj), stirring in one and a 
half tablespoons butter rubbed into two of Hour and half pint sweet 
cream. Or, boil a piece of salt pork one hour, then add beans and 
boil an hour and a half. Or for CastJe Beans, put on string beans 
in boiling water and after cooking an hour add a half j)ound of salt 
pork and cook three hours ; add a little thickening if needed, and 
serve with Steamed Corn Bread, page 30. For Beans, French Style, 
choose small young beans, strip off" ends and stalks throwing them 
into cold water, wash and drain well, boil in salted boiling water in 
a large saucepan ; drain, put in a clean saucepan, shake over the fire 
until they are quite hot and dry ; add three tablespoons butter, one 
of veal or chicken broth, season with white pepper, salt and the 
juice of half a lemon, stir well and serve. To preserve color cook 
String Beans as follows: Take strings off small young beans, 
wash and cut in slivers by holding knife in diagonal shape, placing 
quite a lot of beans in a })ile. Cook till tender, drain and place in 
cold salt(!d water till time to use, when heat quickly, with salt, pep- 
per and butter or any nice dressing wished. If for salad do not re- 
heat. For Shelled Beans, boil half an hour in water to cover, and 
dress as in first reci})e for String Beans; or when almost tender 
drain and put in saucepan with cup any stock, small bunch herbs 
and teaspoon sugar; stew till perfectly tender and then add beaten 
yolk of one egg with gill cream and when hot, serve. For Dry 
Lima Beans, wash one quart of dry lima beans in two warm waters, 
soak three hours, drain, and put on to cook in enough boiling water 
to cover them ; cover ])ot with tin lid, adding more hot water as it 
boils away, boiling ra})idly for one and a half hours, when there 
should be only water enough to come up to the top of the beans — 
just suflicientto make a nice dressing. Five minutes before taking 
up, season with salt and pepper, and stir in a dressing made of one 
tablespoon each of flour and butter, rubbed together until smooth. 
This is a delicious dish. Any dried beans can be cooked same way. 
A recipe is given for Boston Baked Beans in Meats, but we add one 
With Onions, wash well and soak quart beans, small ones are best, 
in water to cover; place in hot water and parboil till skin cracks; 
put small onion in bottom of bean pot, put beans in, and add one 



VEGETABLES. 857 



tablespoon molasses to every quart of beans, a quarter of a pound 
salt pork scored on the top, and a little salt and pepper. Fill the 
pot with the water from beans, and let it stand in the oven where it 
will bake very slowly for twelve hours. As the water dries out, add 
more. The beans must be light brown when done. 

Beets. — Remove leaves, wasli clean, being careful not to break 
off the little fibers or rootlets, as thejuices would thereby escape and 
they would lose their color ; boil in plenty of water loithout salt, if 
young, two hours, if old, four or five hourc, or till one will yield to 
pressure, never try with a fork ; take out, drop in a pan of cold water, 
and slip off the skin with the hands ; slice those needed for imme- 
diate use, place in a dish, add salt, pepper, butter, and if not very 
sweet a teaspoon sugar, set over boiling water to heat thoroughly, 
and serve hot with or without vinegar; for Pickled Beeis,i>ut those 
which remain into a stone jar whole, cover with vinegar, keep in a 
cool place, take out as wanted, slice and serve. A few pieces of 
horseradish put into the jar will prevent a white scum on the vine- 
gar. For Baked Beets, bake in skins till tender, turning often to 
bake evenly, testing as above; or roast in hot ashes, peel, dress and 
serve as above. For Marbled Beets, after they are boiled and skin- 
ned, mash together with boiled potatoes, and season to taste with 
salt; add a large piece of butter (do not use any milk) ; place in a 
dish, make a hole in center in which put in another piece of but- 
ter ; sprinkle with pep])er and serve at once. This is a New Eng- 
land dish, and very delicious for harvest time, when beets are young 
and sweet. For Beet Budding, wash, boil and skin white or red 
beets ; slice and cut in small squares like a grain of corn, to one 
pint add one pint milk, two eggs well beaten, a little salt and pepper ; 
put in buttered baking dish and bake till custard is firm, fifteen or 
twenty minutes. Beets are especially valuable as an article of food 
on account of the sugar they contain. When they are used for a 
salad such as the Russian, after skinning cut in slices an inch 
thick, take the small apple corer, cut out the cylinder shaped pieces 
and prepare with the other vegetables. For Beet Greens, wash 
young beets very clean, cut off tips of leaves, looking over carefully 
to see that no bugs or worms remain, but do not separate roots from 
leaves ; fill kettle half full of salted boiling water, tablespoon to two 
quarts, add beets, boil rapidly from half to three-quarters of an 
hour ; take out and drain in colander, pressing down with a largo 
spoon, so as to get out all the water. Dish and dress with butter, 
pepper, and salt if needed. Serve very quickly as they cool so soon. 
They can be dressed at table with vinegar and are very delicious. 
Cook Brussels Sprouts in same way, some adding a pinch of soda. 

Broccoli, — Strip off dead outside leaves, and cut inside ones off 
level with the flower; cut off stalk close at Bottom, and put brocoli 
into cold salt and water, with heads downwards. When they havo 



858 VEGE'J -IS. 

remained in this for about three-quarters of an hour, and are pei^- 
fectly free from insects, put them into a saucepan hailing salted 
water, and keep boiling quickly over a brisk fire, with the saucepan 
uncovered. Take up moment they are done ; drain well, and serve 
with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be poured 
over the brocoli. If left in the water after it is done it will break, 
its color will be spoiled, and its crispness gone. 

Boiled Cabbage. — Wash, take off decayed leaves, cut in rather 
small pieces and put in ^(9^7^'/i^ salted water; do not have kettle 
more than half full of cabbage and keep water boiling rapidly all the 
time till tender, which can be tested by trying the thick part near- 
est the stalk. It will not take over fifteen or twenty minutes for 
new cabbage and about thirty or forty for old. The cause of the 
strong odor from cooking cabbage is from cooking too long, as in 
that case the oil begins to escape from it. The flavor is also injured 
by too long cooking as after vegetables of all kinds are tender the 
water begins to penetrate them and they should be served at once. 
Dram and serve by itself or with a Vinegar, Drawn Butter, Cream 
or White Sauce poured over it. Some only cut in halves or quar- 
ters and tie in netting or thin muslin. For Creamed Cahhage, slice 
as for cold slaw and stew in a covered saucepan till tender ; drain it, 
return to saucepan, add a gill or more of rich cream, tablespoon but- 
ter, pepper and salt to taste ; let simmer two or three minutes, then 
serve. Milk may be used by adding a little more butter ; or have a 
deep spider hot, put in sliced cabbage, pour quickly over it a pint of 
boiling water, just enough to keep from burning, cover close and 
cook till tender, and add half pint rich milk without draining the 
cabbage. When the milk boils, stir in teaspoon flour moistened 
with little milk, season, cook a moment and serve ; or add Avhen 
tender, teaspoon or so of sugar and only cream enough to moisten 
nicely and just before taking from fire stir in a little vinegar. For 
Delicate Cahhage, remove all defective leaves, quarter and cut as 
for coarse slaw, cover well with cold water, and let remain several 
hours before cooking, then drain and put into pot with enough boil- 
ing water to cover; boil until thoroughly cooked, add salt ten or 
fifteen minutes before removing from fire, and when done, take up 
into a colander, press out water well, and season with butter, and 
pepper. This is a good dish to serve with corned meats, but should 
not be cooked with them ; if preferred, however, it may be seasoned 
by adding some of the liquor and fat from the boiling meat to cab- 
bage while cooking. For Royal Cabbage, cook in quarters in boil- 
ing salted water with a small pinch soda, for seven minutes, skim 
out and place in another saucepan of boiling water ten n)inutes, 
then skim out into first saucepan with fresh boiling water and cook 
ten minutes or till tender ; drain and serve on slices of toast dipped 
in melted butter and over all pour a Cream Dressing. For Fried 
Cabbage, cut cabbage very fine, on a slaw cutter, if possible ; salt 



VEGETABLES. 859 



and pepper, stir well, and let stand five minutes. Have an iron 
kettle smoking hot, drop one tablespoon lard or part butter and lard 
into it, then the cabbage, stirring briskly until quite tender ; send to 
table immediately. One half cup sweet cream, and three table- 
spoons vinegar— the vinegar added after the cream has been well 
stirred in and after taken from stove, is an agreeable change. When 
properly done an invalid can eat it without injury, and there is no 
offensive odor from cooking. For Heidelberg^ Cabbage, select two 
small, solid heads of hard red cabbage ; divide in halves from crown 
to stem ; lay the split side down, and cut downwards in thin slices. 
The cabbage will then be in narrow strips or shreds. Put into a 
saucepan a tablespoon of clean urippings, butter or any nice fat ; 
when fat is hot, put in cabbage a teaspoon salt, three tablespoons 
vinegar (if latter is very strong, use but two), and one onion, in 
which three or four cloves have been stuck, buried in the middle ; 
boil two hours and a half; if it becomes too dry and is in danger of 
scorching, add a very little water. This is very nice. For Spiced 
Cabbage, trim and wash a medium-sized head and shave in rather 
thin slices, put in a saucepan heaping tablespoon of cold drippings 
or butter, the same of sugar, half cup vinegar, teaspoon each whole 
cloves, pepper-corns and salt; put in cabbage, cover with lid and 
cook very slowly for three-quarters of an hour or tilltender,on back 
of stove. Every fifteen minutes stir cabbage so as to put uncooked 
parts to the bottom. Serve on platter with a piece of Braised Meat on 
it, moistening the cabbage with a little of the broth from the cooked 
meat. For Southern Cabbage, chop or slice one medium-sized cab- 
bage fine, put U in stewpan with boiling water to well cover it, and 
boil fifteen minutes ; drain off all water, and add dressing made as 
follows : Half teacup vinegar, two-thirds as much sugar, salt, pep- 
per, half teaspoon mustard, and two teaspoons salad q\\ ; when this 
is boiling hot, add one teacup cream, and one egg stirred together • 
mix thoroughly and immediately with the cabbage, and cook a 
moment. Serve hot. For Stuif'ed Cabbage, take a large, fresh 
cabbage and cut out heart; fill vacancy A'ith stuffing made of cooked 
chicken or veal, chopped very fine and highly seasoned and rolled 
into balls with yolk of egg. Then tie cabbage firmly together (some 
tie a cloth around it), and boil in a covered kettle two hours. This 
is a delicious dish and is useful in using up cold meats. Or scald 
for ten minutes, make cavity in center, by the stalk, and fill it be- 
tween every leaf with any forcemeat ; bind it so that it does not let 
the stuffing drop out, and put it in a pan with some gravy, a slice of 
bacon, a stick of thyme, a bay leaf, and two carrots. Stew all gently 
together, and when done, untie the string, and serve with the 
strained gravy round it. For Cabbage Pudding, boil a firm, white 
cabbage fifteen minutes, changing Avater then for more from the 
boiling tea-kettle ; when tender, drain and set aside till perfectly 
cold ; chop fine, and add two beaten eggs, a tablespoon of butter, 



860 VEGETABLES. 



three of very rich milk or cream, pepper and salt. Stir all well 
together, and bake in a buttered pudding dish until brown ; serve 
hot. This dish is digestible and palatable, much resembling cauli- 
flower. For Brussels Sprouts, soak in water a short time, and 
wash clean, boil in palted water and when done, strain and fry in a 
tablespoon butter, in which has been browned a tablespoon flour and 
a small onion cut fine ; add pepper and salt to taste. 

Stewed Cari'Ots. — Take any quantity desired, divide the carrots 
lengthwise, and boil until perfectly tender, which will require from 
one to two hours. When done, have ready a saucepan with one or 
two tablespoons butter, and small cup cream ; slice the carrots very 
thin, or cut in dice and put in the saucepan ; add salt and pepper, 
and let stew ten or fifteen minutes, stirring gently once or twice, and 
serve in a vegetable dish. Some add more milk or cream ; when 
done, skim out carrots, and to the cream add a little flour thicken- 
ing, or the beaten yolks of one or two eggs. When it boils, pom- 
over the carrots and serve. Carrots may also be boiled with meat 
like turnips or parsnips and are especially nice with corned beef, 
but they take longer to cook than either. For Glazed Carrots^ peel 
some young carrots all to the same size and shape ; parboil in boil- 
ing water ; drain, and warm in saucepan with butter, a pinch of 
powdered sugar and little stock ; when boiled, increase fire, and 
cook until sauce is reduced to a glaze. For Carrot Compote, scrape 
and slice quarter of an inch thick, stew in water till tender, drain, 
weigh and to each pound carrots allow pound sugar and cup cider 
vinegar ; cook all together and flavor with orange peel cut very thin, 
cinnamon and cloves. For Warmed Over Carrots, melt in a spider 
a piece of butter half the size of an egg. Slice in boiled carrots, and 
season with pepper and salt. Just before taking up add half cup of 
cream or milk, or omit either and serve them nicely browned. They 
are liked by some better than when first cooked. Parsnips can be 
prepared in the same way. 

Boiled CauliHower. — ^To each two quarts water allow heaping 
tablespoon salt; choose close and white cauliflower, trim off" decayed 
outside leaves, and cut stock off* flat at bottom ; open flower a little 
in places to remove insects which generally are found about the 
stalk, and let cauliflowers lie with heads downward in salt and 
water for two hours previous to dressing them which will effectually 
draw out all vermin. Then put in boiling water, adding salt in 
above proportion, and boil briskly for fifteen or twenty minutes 
over a good fire, keeping saucepan uncovered. Water should be 
well skimmed, and when cauliflowers are tender, take up, drain, 
and if large enough, place upright in dish ; serve with plain melted 
butter, a little of which may be poured over the flowers, or a White 
Sauce may be used made as follows : Put butter size of an egg into 
saucepan, and when it bubbles stir in a scant half teacup flour ; stir 



VEGETABLES. 861 



well with an egg-whisk until cooked ; then add two teacups of thin 
cream, some pepper and salt. Stir it over the fire until perfectly- 
smooth. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower and serve. Many let 
the cauliflower simmer in the sauce a few moments ^fei'?p''^'"'-~'^-»75, 
before serving. Cauliflower is delicious served as C(^^y^^^3^ 
a garnish around spring chicken, or with fried -^^^^^^^^^ 
sweet-breads, when the White Sauce should be Boued caunaower. 
poured over both. In this case it should be made by adding the 
cream, flour, and ^asoning to the little grease (half a teaspoon) 
that is left after frying the chickens or sweet-breads. For Baked 
Cauli^ower, prepare as above and parboil five minutes, cut 
into pieces and put into a pie dish ; add a little milk, season with 
salt, pepper, and butter, cover with dry grated cheese, and bake. 
For Scalloped Cauliflower, boil till tender, drain well and cut in 
small pieces ; put in layers with fine chopped egg and this dressing ; 
half pint milk thickened over boiling water, with two tablespoons 
flour and seasoned with two teaspoons salt; one of white pepper 
and two tablespoons butter ; put grated bread over the top, dot it 
with small bits of butter, and place it in the oven to heat thoroughly 
and brown. Serve in same dish in which it was baked. This is a 
good way to use common heads. A nicer Avay is to boil them, then 
place them whole in a buttered dish with stems down. Make sauce 
with cup bread-crumbs beaten to froth with two tablespoons melted 
butter and three of cream or milk, one well-beaten egg and salt and 
pepper to taste. Pour this over the cauliflower, cover dish tightly 
and bake six minutes in a quick oven, browning them nicely. Serve 
as above. Or With Mi(,shroo7ns, put in a frying-pan, in hot fat a 
few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower broken into sprigs. 
Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well 
from time to time with the hot fat. For Cauliifower Salad, after 
boihng, let cool and dress with Mayonnaise or any dressing preferred. 

Stewed Celery. — Cut tender, white outside stalks of celery into 
three inch lengths and boil them for ten minutes in salted water. 
Then throw away the water and fill up instead with clear strained 
soup stock, add minced onion and parsley. Boil until the celery is 
tender, add piece of butter softened and stirred up with flour, and 
shake the stew until thickened. Dish pieces in straight order and 
pour sauce over them. For Stewed Endive, cook as above in milk 
or cream, but do not season very highly. 

Boiled Corn. — Put well-cleaned ears in salted hoiling water, 
boil three quarters of an hour, or boil in the inside husk' for the 
same time, remove husks and serve immediately. Corn thoroughly 
cooked is a wholesome dish. Or a better way is to try Steamed 
Corn, put in steamer and cook an hour ; it is sweeter than if boiled 



862 VEGETABLES. 

in water. For Fried Corn, cut corn from cob ; put in frying-pan 
with tablespoon butter, cover and cook twenty-five minutes, stir- 
ring occasionally, but adding no water. The steam 
will cook it, if kept covered. Add salt, pepper 
^ and a cup of cream when done. For Stewed 
Boiled Corn. Com, cut wltli a sharp knife through the center of 

every row of grains, and cut off the outer edge; then with the back of 
the blade push out the yellow eye, with the rich, creamy center of the 
grain, leaving the hull on the cob. To one qu^rt of this add half a 
pint rich milk, and stew until cooked in a covered tin pail, in a ket- 
tle one-third full of boiling water ; then add salt, white pepper, and 
two or three ounces butter ; allow two hours for cooking ; it seems a 
long time, but there is no danger of burning, and it requires no 
more attention than to stir it occasioally and to keep good the sup- 
ply of water. If drier than liked, add more milk or cream. Or, 
after cutting corn from the cob, boil the cobs ten or fifteen minutes 
and take out and put corn in same water ; when tender, add a dress- 
ing of milk, butter, pepper and salt, and just before serving, stir in 
beaten eggs, allowing three eggs to a dozen ears of corn. Or, to 
three pints corn add three tablespoons butter, pepper and salt, and 
just enough water to cover ; place in a skillet, cover and cook rather 
slowly with not too hot a fire, from half to three-quarters of an hour, 
stir with a spoon often, and if necessary add more water, for the 
corn must not brown; if desired, a few moments before it is done, 
add half cup sweet cream thickened with teaspoon flour; boil well 
and serve with roast beef, scalloped tomatoes and mashed potatoes. 
Some stew tomatoes, and just before serving mix them with the 
corn. For Co7'n Omelet, one dozen ears of corn, three eggs, salt to 
taste ; boil corn, cut it from the cob, mix with the eggs, and make 
in small omelets and fry. For Corn Pie, cut corn from two ears of 
boiled corn ; mix gill of milk, gradually, with tablespoon flour. 
Beat yolk and white of one egg separately, and add with tablespoon 
butter and teaspoon sugar to the flour and milk. Season and bake 
twenty-five minutes in a deep pie plate. Nice wav in which to warm 
over corn left from dinner. A most delicious dish is Corn Pud- 
ding, draw a sharp knife through each row of corn lengthwise, then 
scrape out the pulp ; to pint of corn add quart milk, three eggs, a 
little suet, sugar to taste, and a few lumps butter ; place in buttered 
pudding dish, stir occasionally until thick, and bake about two hours. 
Serve as a vegetable, or may be served for dessert. In serving boiled 
corn it is nice to place a Corn Doiley, made like the Fritter Doiley 
(working ears of corn in the ends) in the dish, put in corn and cover 
with ends. 

Dried Corn. — For a family of eight, wash a pint of corn through 
one water, and put to soak overnight in clean cold water (if impos- 
sible to soak so long, place over a kettle of hot water for two or 
three hours ;) when softened, cook half an hour in water in which it 
was soaked, adding more if needed, and as soon as boiling, two 



VEGETABLES. 863 



tablespoons butter, one of flour, and a little salt and pepper. An- 
other good way to finish is the following : Take yolk of egg, table- 
spoon milk, pinch salt, thicken with flour quite stiff" so as to take 
out with a teaspoon, and drop in little dumplings not larger than an 
acorn ; cover tightly and cook five or ten minutes ; have enough 
water in kettle before adding dumplings, as cover should not be re- 
moved until dumplings are done. Some soak in milk adding more 
when put on to cook, but when this is done, place in custard kettle, 
as milk burns easily, and cook an hour or so. For Hulled Corn, 
when prepared as directed in Winter Vegetables, or as may be bought, 
cook till tender, adding a little water if needed, season with salt and a 
tablespoon or two of cream added is an addition. Serve with cream 
and sugar, or eat as a vegetable with butter. It is delicious warmed 
over in a little butter, browning nicely. 

Fried Cucunihers. — Pare and lay in ice water half an hour, cut 
lengthwise in half-inch slices, dredge with flour, single-bread and 
fry a delicate brown. For Stewed Ciiciimhers, cut in quarter-inch 
slices, pick out seeds, stew, and season like green pease ; or With 
Onions^ pare and slice six cucumbers, take out seeds, and cut three 
medium-sized onions into thin slices ; put both into stewpan, with 
pint White Stock, and let boil for half an hour. Beat up yolks of 
two eggs, stir these into the sauce ; add cayenne, salt, and grated 
nutmeg ; bring to the point of boiling and serve. Do not allow the 
sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a favorite diyh with lamb or 
mutton chops and especially with Baked Steak^ prepare round 
steak as for frying and then place in baking pan with a little boil- 
ing water, adding more as needed and just before serving add bits of 
butter and season to taste. This is nice where there is a quantity of 
steak to cook or the top of the stove is in use. 

Dandelions. — They are fit for use until they blossom. Cut off" 
the leaves, pick over carefully, wash in several waters, parboil in 
boiling water an hour, some using pinch of soda, drain well, add 
salted boiling water, and boil two hours; when done, turn into a 
colander and drain, season with butter, and more salt if needed, and 
cut with a knife ; or after parboiling with soda as above boil with a 
piece of salt pork, omitting butter in dressing. Potatoes may be 
added about an hour before greens are done. Different greens are 
cooked as above or in different ways which are given. Cowslips 
make a fair substitute for dandelions but are rather insipid. Mus- 
tard is excellent, when tender, and should be cooked as above. 
Greens can be had through the season by sowing spinach, beets, and 
Swiss chard thickly in the garden beds, in a rich soil. They should 
be sown at intervals of two weeks, a few at a time. The Swiss chard 
has quite large leaves and stalks, but they are crisp and tender if 
grown well. It lacks the delicious sweetness of the beet, but will be 
liked by any one fond of greens. Young beets are excellent eating, 
top and root. Where one has a garden always sow the seed thickly, 



864 VEGETABLES. 



and thin out when the plants become of sufficient size, using for 
greens, leaving those for winter use to mature in the rows. Spinach 
is a favorite old plant, and many families would not think of being 
Avithout it. Lettuce is also good for greens, being very tender and 
rich in flavor. If dandelion seed is sown in the garden, in good 
soil, and care is given the plants, one will be surprised to see how 
great an improvement cultivation makes in it. The leaves will be 
larger and thicker, and as rich soil induces a vigorous growth and 
a quick one, they will be much crisper and more tender than those 
gathered from roadside or meadow. 

Fried Egg Plant. — Peel and cut the purple kind, in slices, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let drain on a tipped plate for 
three-quarters of an hour ; make a light batter with one egg, flour and 
a little water, dip the slices into it and fry in butter or lard ; or dip in 
beaten egg, then in cracker-crumbs ; some parboil the egg plant in 
salted water after slicing, drain and finish as above ; or for Baked Egg 
Plant., peel, boil till done, pour ofi' water, mash fine, add butter and 
salt to taste, put in shallow pudding pan, over the top place a thick 
layer of cracker-crumbs and bake half an hour in moderate oven. 
For Egg Plant Cakes, peel and slice one or two medium-sized egg 
plants, put on in cold water, boil till tender, drain, mash fine, season 
Avith salt and pepper, and add beaten egg and tablespoon floui'; fry 
in little cakes in butter or butter and lard in equal parts. Parsnips 
and Salsify or Oyster-plant may be cooked in same way, but Oyster- 
plant is made in smaller cakes to imitate oysters. 

Boiled Hominy. — Soak quart ground hominy overnight, put over 
fire in tin pail, set in boiling water, with water enough to cover, boil 
gently for five hours, as it can not be hurried. After grains begin 
to soften on no account stir it. The water put in at first ought to 
be enough to finish it, but if it proves too little, add more carefully, 
as too much makes* it too soft. Salt just before taking from the 
stove, as too early salting makes it dark. If properly done, the 
grains will stand out snowy and well done, but round and separate. 

Stewed Horse Radish. — Melt a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, stir in a tablespoon of flour, add a cup and a half of vinegar, 
and a teaspoon each of salt and sugar, bring to a boil, and add a 
pint grated horse radish, and cook ten minutes, stirring constantly. 

Wilted Lettuce. — Place in a vegetable dish lettuce that has 
been very carefully picked and washed each leaf by itself, to remove 
all insects. Cut across dish four or five times and sprinkle with 
salt. Fry a small piece of fat ham until brown, cut in small pieces ; 
Avhen very hot add cup of good vinegar, and pour it boiling hot over 
the lettuce ; mix it well with a fork, and garnish with slices of hard- 
boiled eggs. Be certain to have the fat so hot that when vinegar is 
poured in, it will boil immediately. Add half a cup or a cup of 



VEGETABLES. 865 

vinegar according to strength of vinegar and quantity of lettuce. 
For Stewed Lettuce^ cook as spinach or any green vegetable, and 
it is nice to use half and half with the former. 

Macaroni. — Macaroni is a food of very high nutritious power, 
being formed chiefly of the gluten, the most valuable part of the 
wheat from which the starch has been removed. Weight for weight, 
it may be regarded as not less valuable for flesh-making purposes 
in the animal economy than beef and mutton. For BaJced Maca- 
roni., take about three ounces macaroni and boil till tender in stew- 
pan witb little water ; take pudding dish or pan, warm a little but- 
ter in it, and put in layer of macaroni, then layer of cheese grated 
or cut in small bits, and sprinkle over with salt, pepper and small 
pieces of butter, then add another layer ofnidcaroni, and so on, fin- 
ishing off" with cheese; pour on rich milk or cream enough to just 
come to the top of the ingredients and bake from one-half to three 
quarters of an hour. Some add a layer of bread or cracker-crumbs 
over the top. For Baked Rice, cook rice as follows ; pick and wash 
a cup of rice, put in a stew-kettle with three cups boiling water, and 
set over the fire — the boiling water makes the kernels retain their 
shape better than when cold Avater is used. When done put a layer 
of rice, cheese, etc., alternately as above, and bake in same way. 
For Boiled Macaroni., pour pint boiling water over five ounces 
macaroni, let stand half an hour, drain and put in custard-kettle 
Avith boiling milk or milk and Avater to cover, cook till tender, 
drain, add a tablespoon butter, teacup cream, season with salt 
and pepper, when hot dish, grate cheese over top and ser\^e ; or 
take spaghetti or thread macaroni. Do not Avash. Have sauce- 
pan on fire half full of boiling Avater, Avith a heaping tablespoon 
of salt, add macaroni and boil till tender, about ten minutes 
drain and coA^er Avith plenty of cold Avater. Let stand till cold, 
drain, dress Avith either some White, BroAvn or Tomato Sauce, re- 
heat and serve ; or for Trijyle Macaroni, dress Avith a cup of each of 
the sauces and a cup of chopped cold ham, chicken or tongue, re- 
heat and serve. For Macaroni With Tomatoes, take three pints of 
beef soup, clear, and put one pound of macaroni in it, boil fifteen 
minutes, with a little salt ; then take up the macaroni — Avhich should 
have absorbed nearly all the liquid — and put it on a flat plate, and 
sprinkle grated cheese over it thickly, and pour over all plentifully 
a sauce made of tomatoes, well boiled, strained, and seasoned Avith 
salt and pepper, and serA^e; or boil half pound macaroni in milk, or 
water, and in a separate vessel stcAv quart tomatoes ; chop latter, 
add two well-beaten eggs, a tablespoon butter, and salt and pepper 
to taste. Mix Avith the macaroni, and bake. For Italian Maca- 
roni, place tAvo pounds beef, well larded Avith strips of salt pork, and 
one or two chopped onions, in a covered kettle on back of stove, un- 
til it throAvs out its juice and is a rich brown ; add a quart tomatoes 
seasoned Avith pepper and salt, and allow the mixture to simmer two 



86fi VEGETABLES, 



or three hours. Take quantity of macaroni desired and boil in 
water for twenty minutes, after which put one layer of boiled ma- 
caroni in bottom of pudding dish, cover with some of above mix- 
ture, then a layer of grated cheese, and so on in layers till dish is 
filled, having a layer of cheese on top ; place in oven an hour, or un- 
til it is a rich brown. Commence early in morning to prepare this. 

Boiled Okra. — Put young and tender pods of long, white okra 
in salted boiling water in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan (as iron 
discolors it) boil half an hour, take off stems, and serve with butter, 
pepper, salt, and vinegar if preferred; or for Fried Okra, after boil- 
ing, slice in rings, season with butter, dip in batter and fry ; season 
and serve ; or With Tomatoes, stew an equal quantity of tomatoes, 
and tender sliced okra, and one or two sliced green peppers ; stew 
in porcelain kettle forty minutes, season with butter, pepper and 
salt, and serve. With Ham, while boiling okra as above fry three 
thin slices of ham; drain okra, add ham fat, heat a moment, put in 
gill cream or rich milk and serve garnishing with the slices of ham ; 
or for an Okra Medley, to the fried ham, cut in diamond-shaped 
pieces, add the tomatoes, okra, green peppers and half pint each 
grated corn and lima beans, adding a little water if needed ; stew till 
tender, season v/ith salt and butter, adding gill cream and serve hot. 
Okra, when fresh, has a juicy slippery appearance, not liked by 
many, but it may be dried, partially or entirely, by slicing the pods, 
and spreading on plates to dry ; or string them, dry and slice before 
using. Never dry, or cook, in iron. 

Baked Onions. — The large Spanish or Bermuda onions are best 
for this purpose. Wash outside clean, put into a saucepan with 
slightly salted water, and boil an hour, replenishing the water with 
more (boiling hot) as it boils away. Then turn off water ; take out 
onions and lay upon a cloth that all moisture maybe absorbed ; roll 
each in a piece of buttered tissue-paper, twisting it at the top to 
keep it closed, and bake in a slow oven nearly an hour, or until 
tender all through. Peel, put in a deep dish, and brown slightly, 
basting freely with butter; this will take fifteen minutes more. 
Season with pepper and salt, and pour melted butter over the top. 
Wash and peel any large onions and parboil as above, changing 
water once and adding a little milk with last water ; when just ten- 
der, place in baking dish or jar, putting a little salt, white pepper, 
and butter on each, with a little of the water in which they were 
cooked in the pan ; brown in oven fifteen minutes and serve. For 
Boiled Onions, wash, peel, boil ten minutes, pour off this water, 
again add boiling water, boil a few minutes and drain a second time; 
pour on boiling water, add salt and boil for one hour; place in a 
colander, turn a saucer over them, and press firmly to drain out all 
water ; place in a dish and add butter and pepper. Or, about half 
an hour before they are done, turn a pint of milk into the water in 



VEGETABLES. 867 



which they are boiling, or first pour off part of the water and, when 
tender, season as above. Old onions require two hours to boil. For 
Creamed Onions^ boil as above till tender, drain, return to sauce- 
pan "ar^ cover with a White Sauce or a Cream Dressing, adding a 
little minced parsley, if wished ; when hot, serve. 

Fried Onions. Slice, cook ten minutes in boiling water, drain, 
add boiling water, cook ten minutes more, drain, and repeat again, 
then drain, fry in butter or beef drippings, stir often, season, and 
serve hot; or With Vinegar, add half cup of latter just before dish- 
ing, and when it boils, serve. For a very elaborate dish try Stuffed 
Onio7is, peel eight or ten and parboil fifteen minutes, drain and take 
out about half the insides ; chop these and mix with them gill each 
sausage meat and bread-crumbs, an egg, and a good pinch white pep- 
per, and a little salt . Stuff onions with mixture and heap it a little 
on top to use up surplus if any. Place in a deep pan that will go ir 
steamer and let steam about an hour and a half. Then brown in oven 
with cup of gravy poured in pan. When not convenient to steam they 
can be simmered in gravy in oven if kept covered with a greased 
sheet of paper. Any kind of minced cold meat, or part raw and 
part cooked can be used. For Onion Oinelet, mash eight medium- 
sized onions boiled quite done, and season with pepper, salt, table- 
spoon butter, gill sweet milk, and two or three eggs. Bake as di 
rected for Baked Omelet, or simply bake in oven eight m.inutes. Foi 
Onion Pudding, add a cup bread-crumbs soaked in little milk to 
above and use chopped raw onions, baking in pudding dish. With 
Beans, fry three large onions, chopped, till brown and tender, 
sprinkle with little flour, add gill any gravy, season and add a pint 
of dried beans cooked till quite dry, stir well together and serve hot. 

Baked Parsnips. — Put four thin slices fat pork in a kettle with 
two quarts cold water, wash and scrape parsnips, and if large halve 
or quarter, and as soon as water boils place in kettle, boil about half 
an hour, remove meat, parsnips, and gravy to a dripping pan, 
sprinkle with a little white sugar, and bake in oven a quarter of an 
hour, or until they are a light brown, and the water is all fried out. 
Add a few potatoes if liked. For Fried Pat'snips, hoil till tender 
or take any left from first recipe, and fry in a hot skillet, y/ith but- 
ter, ham fat or beef drippings ; it is better to dip each slice in beaten 
egg or batter before frying, or some roll in flour, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, or single-bread and fry like fritters. Parsnips are good 
in March or April, and make an excellent seasoning for soups. 
Stewed Parsnips, wash, scrape, and slice about half an inch thick ; 
have frying-pan prepared with half pint hot water and tablespoon 
butter, add parsnips, season with salt and pepper, cover closely, 
and stew until water is cooked away, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent burning. When done, parsnips will be a creamy, light brown 
color. Adding two tablespoons sugar to above makes them much 



868 VEGETABLES. 



more delicious. For Parsnip Cake, boil till tender, mash, season 
and fry in one large cake in frying-pan, or add yolks of eggs, little 
flout or cracker-dust and fry in small cakes. 

Green Pease. — Wash lightly two quarts shelled pease, put into 
boiling water enough to cover, boil twenty minutes, add pepper, 
salt^ and more hot water if needed to prevent burning, and two 
tablespoons butter rubbed into two of flour, and teaspoon sugar ; 
stir well, adding tablespoon minced parsley if liked, boil five minutes 
and serve. If pods are clean and fresh, boil first in water to give 
flavor, skim out and put in pease. When desirous|to preserve color, 
cook till tender, then drain, cover with cold salted water till ready 
to use, reheat, season and dress as above or with cream, etc. Can- 
ned pease should be. rinsed before cooking. Yov Creamed Pease^ 
Put two or three pints of young green pease into a saucepan of boil- 
ing water ; when nearly done and tender, drain in a colander, quite 
dry, melt two ounces of butter in a clean stewpan, thicken evenly 
with a little flour, shake it over the fire, but"do not let it brown, mix 
smoothly with a gill of cream, add half a teaspoon of white sugar, 
bring to a boil, pour in the pease, keep moving for two minutes un- 
til well heated, and serve hot. The sweet pods of young pease are 
made by the Germans into a palatable dish by simply stewing with 
a little butter and savory herbs. With Vegetables, cut up an onion 
and head of lettuce and add to quart shelled pease with very little 
water, cook till tender, add beaten egg and half teaspoon sugar and 
serve. For Dried Pease, soak overnight, boil two or three hours, 
or till tender, season with salt, pepper and butter and serve ; or for 
Baked Dried Pease, soak, parboil and finish as Baked Beans. 
For Pease Pudding, soak pint split pease overnight, tie loosely in 
a clean cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put on to 
boil in cold water, allowing two and ahalf hours after the water has 
commenced to boil. When tender, take up, drain, rub through 
a colander ; add two tablespoons butter, two eggs, pepper, and salt; 
beat all well together for a few minutes, until well mixed ; then tie 
them tightly in a floured cloth ; boil pudding another hour, turn on 
dish, and serve very hot. This pudding should always be sent to 
table with Boiled Leg of Pork, and is exceedingly nice accompani- 
ment to Boiled Beef. 

Fried Pumpkin. — Take pieces of a ripe pumpkin, slice and 
cook in a small quantity of water till tender ; remove from fire, and 
mash with fork ; then add one or two eggs, according to amount of 
pumpkin ; put a little butter in frying pan, put in pumpkin, fry a 
delicate brown, and serve. 

Boiled Rice. — Pick over carefully, wash in warm water, rub 
between hands, and then rinse several times in cold water till white. 
Put teacup in a tin pan or porcelain kettle, add quart boiling water ; 



noitABLit. 



boil till tender, not stirring, but taking care that it does not burn ; 
add teaspoon salt, pour into a dish and send to table, placing a lump 
of butter in the center. Cooked thus the kernels remain whole ; or 
Avhen tender add tablespoon butter, gill cream or rich milk and 
teaspoon sugar. With Milk^ put a pint rice into nearly two quarts 
of cold milk an hour before dinner add two teaspoons salt, boil very 
slowly and stir often : cook on back part of stove and range so as to 
avoid burning. A custard kettle is best for it. Or, after cooking, 
drain carefully, stir in two well-beaten eggs, one tablespoon grated 
cheese, half a tablespoon butter, half a teaspoon salt ; bake a few 
minutes in shallow pans. Some always soak rice an hour or two 
before cooking. Stewed Rice is the easiest way to prepare it. For 
Southern Mice., after thoroughly washing and rubbing rice, put it in 
salted boiling water enough to cover it twice over, in a custard ket- 
tle or tin pail, set in a kettle of boiling water; cover whole closely 
and cook for fifteen or twenty minutes, until grains of rice are full 
and plump but not "mushy ;" drain off all water possible, and re- 
place rice in kettle, allowing it to cook for half an hour longer, when 
it is ready to serve. The grains should be full and soft, and each 
one retain its form perfectly. During last half hour it should be 
occasionally stirred lightly with a fork, and it is improved by stand- 
ing on back of stove a few minutes before serving. Some cook thus 
in an ordinary saucepan, but above is the better way. This is a de- 
licious way of cooking rice. For Mice Pie, take cold remains of 
roast beef, mince very fine, and put into a stewpan with quart or 
more water ; chop fine medium-sized onion, large potato, and large 
slice fat salt pork ; put these with salt, pepper, and half teaspoon 
allspice into saucepan with meat, and boil steadily till gravy is re- 
duced two-thirds, and meat tender ; while this is cooking, take pint 
rice, and boil in plenty of water with salt to taste ; when grains be- 
come tender, drain off water and set back on stove to steam, first 
turning it carefully over from bottom of pot with a spoon to allow 
steam to paas through ; if properly cooked the grain should all 
stand separately though perfectly tender ; take half can large toma- 
toes, stewed till smooth and free from lumps ; stir into rice large 
tablespoon butter, then mix in tomatoes and hash with hard-boiled 
eggs sliced thin ; put the whole into large baking dish ; cut two 
more eggs over top, pressing gently down into the rice to prevent 
drying up ; sprinkle with white pepper and bake till brown ; when 
done set dish on a large flat disn and serve hot for dinner. Rice 
for Curries, pick, wash, and soak rice in plenty of cold water ; then 
have ready a saucepan boiling water, drop rice into it, and keep 
boiling quickly, with lid uncovered, until it is tender, but not soft. 
Take up, drain, and put on a dish before fire to dry ; do not handle 
it much with a spoon.lbut shake it about a little with two forks, that 
it may be equally dried, and strew over a little salt. It is noAv 
ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, or bs 



870 VEGETABLES. 



laid round dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in center. 
Some cooks smooth rice with back of a spoon, and then brush over 
with yolk of an egg, and set it in oven to color ; but rice well boiled, 
white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is by far the more prefer- 
able mode of dressing it. During process of boiling, rice should be 
attentively watched, that it be not overdone, as, if this is the case, 
it will have a mashed and soft appearance. 

Salsify or Vegetable Oysters. — Wash thoroughly, scrape off 
skin with a knife, cut across in rather thin slices, stew until tender 
in water enough to cover them, with a piece of salt codfish for seas- 
oning. Before sending to table, remove codfish, thicken with flour 
and butter rubbed together, toast slices of bread, put in dish, and 
then add the vegetable oyster. This method gives the flavor of 
oysters to the vegetable, and adds much to its delicacy. Or, after 
stewing until tender in clear water, mash, season with pepper and 
Bait, and serve. Or for Fried Salsify, parboil after scraping ofFout- 
side, cut in slices, single-bread and fry in lard ; or some let stand an 
hour in Tarragon Vinegar after parboiling, then drain, dip in batter 
and fry. Or On Toast, slice crosswise five or six good-sized plants, 
cook till tender in water enough to cover, then add a pint or more 
of rich milk mixed with one tablespoon flour, season with butter, 
pepper and salt, let boil up and pour over Slices of toasted bread ; 
or for Salsify Soup, add three pints milk, or half milk and water, 
season and serve with crackers like oyster soup ; a little codfish 
added gives more of oyster flavor. For Scalloped Salsify, boil as 
above, cut in short pieces, make half as much sauce with cream, 
seasoning with anchovy sauce and pepper ; toss the salsify in this 
for a minute and then put it in a shallow dish that has been but- 
tered and covered thickly with bread crumbs. Squeeze a few drops 
of lemon juice over, cover with crumbs and brown in oven ; or the 
salsify may be first rubbed through colander. For Salsify Cake, 
make same as Parsnip Cake. For Salsify Fritters, scrape, boil, 
drain and mash ; add beaten egg, salt, pepper, four tablespoons 
cream and flour enough to make batter that will drop from end of 
spoon. Fry as directed in Fritters. When scraping salsify it is 
well to drop it in cold water in which there is a little vinegar as 
salsify darkens so very quickly by exposure to air. 

Spinach. — Look over spinach, wash in three or four waters, 
pinch ofi" leaves, boil in saucepan without water for thirty minutes, 
covering closely, drain in colander and cut with a 
knife while draining; season with pepper, salt and 
a little butter, boil two eggs hard and slice over 
the top ; serve hot. Or On Toast, when boiled 
soft, rub through sieve, then put in fr_ying-pan, 
with a lump of butter, season with pepper and salt. When hot, 
beat in two or three tablespoons rich cream and teaspoon sugar. Put 




VEGETABLES, 871 



thin slices of buttered toast (one for each person) on dish and on 
each piece put a cupful of spinach neatly smoothed in shape, with 
the half of a hard boiled egg on the top, cut part uppermost as il- 
lustrated. Or cook like Dandelions with salt pork or meat. Or to 
better preserve color cook in boiling salted water, then place in cold 
salted water and when wanted, rub through puree sieve and serve, 
dressed with any sauce or seasoning wished. K Puree of Lettuce 
is made and served in same way. 

Summer Squash or Cymlings. — These are better when young 
and tender, which may be known by pressing the nail through the 
skin ; do not peel or take out seeds, but boil whole or cut across in 
thick slices; boil in as little water as possible for one-half or three- 
quarters of an hour, drain well, mash and set on back part of stove 
or range to dr}' out for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally ; 
then season with butter, pepper, salt and a little cream. If old, 
peel, cut up, take out seeds, boil and season as above. For Fried 
Summer Squash, take a tender one, cut in slices, skin and all, dip in 
water then in flour, or single-bread or dip in batter,and fry in hot 1 ard. 
These taste like Egg-plant ; or for Squash Patties, steam till tender, 
take up and mash to a pulp, let cool a little, season with pepper, salt, 
butter and add flour until stiff, two eggs and a little sweet milk ; 
make in little cakes or drop in hot lard and fry brown. Ochra pre- 
pared as above and fried is splendid. Lima Beans also, only leave 
out the flour and put on pie pans and bake. 

Winter Squash. — Cut up, take out inside, pare pieces and 
stew in as little water as possible, cook an hour, mash in kettle, and 
if watery, let stand on the fire a few m-oments, stirring until dry; 
season with butter, cream, salt and pepper ; be careful that it does 
not burn. For Baked Squash, cut in pieces without paring, bake 
and just before done season with bit of butter, salt, sugar and pepper, 
if used, on each piece, and serve hot. Or they may be cooked in a 
steamer, dressed as in second recipe, and served in the shell, or 
scraped out, put in pan, mashed, and then seasoned with butter. 
Cream, salt, sugar and pepper, made hot and served. As shell is 
often so very hard an easy way is to put a whole squash in a steamer, 
after washing off outside, and let steam half an hour. That softens 
the shell sufficiently, and it can be cut in strips about the width of 
two fingers. Place in baking pan, finish as above or rub with a 
a brush dipped in butter and sprinkle with a little salt and sugar. 
Bake without burning, using greased paper if necessary. For Fried 
Squash, pare and cut in pieces, steam till tender, salting while 
steaming; place in hot frying-pan with batter, sprinkle with sugar 
and fry brown ; a little cream may be added while frying. For 
Squash Ca/te^, take any cooked squash, mash, and to a pint, add one 
egg, cracker-crumbs till stiff enough to shape, season with salt and 
pepper, add teaspoon sugar, make into cakes and fry in frying-pan. 
These are delicious. A little butter may be added if wished. 



872 VEGi^u:BLi:i, 

Succotash. — Take pint of shelled lima beans (green), wash, 
cover with hot water, let stand five minutes, pour off, place over fire 
in hot water, and boil fifteen minutes ; have ready corn from six 
good-sized ears, and add to beans ; boil half an hour, add salt, pepper 
and two tablespoons butter. Be careful in cutting down corn not to 
cut too deep, better not cut deep enough and then scrape : after corn 
is added, watch carefully to keep from scorching. Or, With Meat, 
boil pound salt pork two hours, add beans, cook fifteen minutes, 
then add corn and finish as above, omitting butter. Or, string beans 
may be used, cooking two hours before adding corn ; or With Meat, 
put beans on with meat, then finish as above. For Winter Succo- 
tash, wash pint lima beans (dried when green) and one and a half 
pints dried corn ; put beans in kettle and cover with cold M^ater ; 
cover corn with cold water in a tin pan, set on top of kettle of beans 
so that while the latter are boiling the corn may be heating and 
swelling, or soak corn overnight ; boil beans fifteen minutes, drain 
off, cover with boiling water, and when tender (half an hour) add 
corn, cooking both together half an hour ; five minutes before serv- 
ing, add salt, pepper and a dressing of butter and flour rubbed to- 
gether, or half teacup cream or milk thickened with tablespoon 
flour. Or parboil quart dry white beans in soda water. Cook slowly 
in a separate vessel two-thirds as much dried sweet corn. Pour off 
soda water from beans and put them over fire in cold water, with a 
small piece salt pork. Let them boil about three hours, adding hot 
water to prevent burning. When nearly done, add corn, a trifle of 
red pepper, a small piece of butter, and a tablespoon sugar. The 
pork makes it salt enough. 

Baked Tomatoes. — Take nice large tomatoes ; wash and wipe 
dry ; cut in halves ; lay iu baking dish with rind down^ so the juice 
will not run out ; put a little piece of butter on each half, sprinkle 
over some salt and pepper, then sift with flour and sugar to make 
them brown ; put a little water in to keep from burning and bake 
until done. Eat warm ; or cut in slices, season as above and cover 
with a layer of bread-crumbs. Or into quart cold, stewed tomatoes, 
beat two eggs, two tablespoons bread-crumbs, tablespoon chopped 
parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Bake twenty minutes in a 
quick oven. For Stuif'ed Tomatoes, cut a thin slice from blossom 
side of twelve solid, smooth, ripe tomatoes, with a teaspoon remove 
pulp without breaking the shell ; take a small, solid head of cabbage 
and one onion, chop fine, add bread-crumbs rubbed fine, and pulp 
of tomatoes, season with pepper, salt and sugar, add a teacup good 
sweet cream, mix well together, fill tomatoes, put the slice back in 
its place, lay them stem end down in a buttered baking dish with 
iusi enough water (some cook without water), with a small lump of 
butter on each, to keep from burning, and bate half an hour, or un- 
til thoroughly done ; place a bit of butter on each and serve in bak- 
ing dish. They make a handsome dish for a dinner table. Som« 



VfidETABLES. 873 



omit cabbage and cream ; or a little finely chopped cooked meat 
may be added ;or cut six tomatoes in halves,remove pulp and fill inside 
with a mixture of bread-crumbs, and grated Parmesan cheese seas- 
oned with pepper and salt ; place a small piece of butter on each 
half tomato, and lay them close together in a well-buttered tin. 
Bake in a slow oven about half an hour, and serve with the liquor 
that comes from them when cooking, or a nice rich gravy may be 
poured over them. Or am'' stuffed tomatoes may be Fried care- 
fully or they are delicious JSraised. 

Fried Tomatoes. — Peel tomatoes and cut crosswise in large 
slices, salt and pepper, dip each slice into flour, then into beaten 
egg, and fry at once in hot lard ; serve hot. A cup of milk is some- 
times thickened with a little flour and butter, boiled and poured 
over them ; or cover with a White Sauce, or with a gravy made by 
browning tablespoon flour in pan in which tomatoes were fried, 
adding milk till of a creamy consistency. Or single-bread them 
and frv in frying-pan, turning to brown both sides. Some do not 
pare them and others remove the seeds. With Peppers, peel a 
dozen ripe tomatoes, and fry in butter, with two or three sliced green 
peppers ; sprinkle with little salt, add sliced onion and cook well 
together, A nice way to serve fried tomatoes is in center of dish 
with chops at each end. For Fried Green Tomatoes, take nice 
smooth green tomatoes, wash, slice, and sprinkle over a little salt, 
let stand five minutes, drain, roll in meal,and fry in butter. Serve hot. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. — Scald and skin half a peck of firm, ripe 
tomatoes. Cut in slices ; take quart bread-crumbs, half pint but- 
ter, two tablespoons sugar, teaspoon salt, half of pepper, and one 
onion chopped very fine. Put into a buttered, earthen baking dish a 
layer of bread-crumbs, upon which place a layer of sliced tomatoes ; 
upon these place a few bits of !he butter, a little of the chopped 
onion, and a sprinkle of the pepper, sugar and salt. Now another 
layer of the bread-crumbs, etc., and so alternate until dish is full, 
with last layer bread-crumbs, dotting it over with small pieces of but- 
ter, and dusting it with pepper and salt. Place in a good oven and 
bake one hour. The onion may be omitted, or onions prepared by 
soaking overnight in hot water, dried well, sliced in nearly half-inch 
slices, and browned on both sides in a frying-pan with butter, may 
be added, a layer on each layer of tomatoes. Some use bread cut 
in small pieces instead of the crumbs. For Sliced Tomatoes, scald 
a few ai^ time in boiling water, peel, slice, and sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, set away in a cool place for half an hour, or lay a piece 
of ice on them. Serve as a relish for dinner in their own liquor. 
Those who desire may add vinegar and sugar. Some peel without 
scalding in order to keep them as firm as possible. 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Scald as above, peel, slice and cut out all 
defective part» ; place a lump of butter in a hot skillet, put in toma- 



874 VEGETABLES. 



toes, season with salt and pepper, keep up a brisk fire, and cook as 
rapidly as possible, stirring with a spoon or chopping up with a 
knife (in the latter case wipe the knife as often as used or it will 
blacken the tomatoes). Cook half an hour. Serve at once in a 
deep dish lined with toast. When iron is used, toniatoes must cook 
rapidly and have constant attention. If prepared in granite or por- 
celain, they do not require the same care. With Vineffar, i\\?>t be- 
fore dishing add two tablespoons vinegar to a quart or two of toma- 
toes. With Gravy,, leave them whole, put in a large-bottomed 
saucepan and add to seven or eight tomatoes, half pint good gravy, 
stew gently, turning them carefully once or twice to thoroughly 
cook them ; when done, add a little thickening of flour and butter 
rubbed smooth, let boil up once and serve. For Tomato Toast, run 
a quart stewed ripe tomatoes through a colander, place in a porce- 
lain stewpan, season with butter, pepper and salt and sugar to taste; 
cut slices of bread thin, broAvn on both sides, butter and lay on a 
platter, and just before serving add a pint good sweet cream to 
stewed tomatoes, and pour them over toast. For Tomatoes With 
Eggs, peel skins from twelve large tomatoes. Put four spoonfuls 
butter in a frying-pan ; when hot, add one large onion chopped fine ; 
let it fry a few minutes, add tomatoes, and when nearly done, six 
eggs well beaten. With Meat, quart ripe tomatoes or one can, pint 
cold boiled beef chopped not too fine, butter the size of an egg, half 
pint liquor in which beef has been boiled, salt and pepper to taste ; 
add a small-sized onion, chopped fine ; place in the oven and bake 
slowly one hour. With Onions, slice two large onions, quart toma- 
toes, cook and season with pepper, salt, butter, thicken with bread. 
Just before serving add half cup either sweet or good sour cream. 
If tomatoes are taken from fire before adding cream it will not cur- 
dle. With Rice, scald and peel six ripe tomatoes, scald cup rice, 
and put both together in a pan ; add tablespoon sugar, a little salt 
pepper, and water enough to bring the rice to consistency of plain 
boiled rice when done, and stew till latter is tender. Season with 
butter before serving. 

Baked Turnips. — Take whole turnips, wash well, but do not 
peel, cut slice off top, place in oven and bake; when done serve in 
the skin ; they can be seasoned and eaten right out of the shell the 
skin forms. The white turnips are best for this. Or peel, slice and 
bake ; or peel either white or yellow, latter known as ruta-bagas, cut 
in small slices, dice are nicest, and boil in boiling salted water till 
tender ; drain, put in an earthen baking dish and cover with a White 
Sauce made of milk or water, add a layer of bread or cracker- 
crumbs and dot Avith bits of butter and brown in oven. Cold boiled 
turnips can be used as above and either make a very nice dish. 

Fried Turnips. — Cut ruta-bagas in slices about three-eighths 
of an inch thick, steam until very near tender, take them out into 



VEGETABLES. 875 



a frying-pan containing a little lard, or butter is better, and fry un- 
til a nice brown ; turn, and brown the other side. Salt while fry- 
ing and serve hot. White ones can be cooked same. Or for Fri- 
cassed Turnips, prepare as for white or yellow as above ; when 
brown, add to a scant quart of slices a tablespoon sugar, mix well, 
then put in cup stock and place pan on back of range to cook 
slowly till turnips are done.__^ Prepare a saucepan with a tablespoon 
butter, mix in half tablespo'on flour and add a little stock ; when 
mixed add the turnips and sauce, let boil up once and serve. Boil- 
ing water may be used in place of stock, but it will not make so 
rich a dish. 

Diced Turnips. — Pare, slice, cut in dice an inch square, boil 
till nearly done, in as little salted water as possible ; to one quart tur- 
nips, add tablespoon sugar, and season as needed ; when boiled as 
dry as possible, add two tablespoons cream and a beaten egg, 
and serve. This is very nice ; or peel and cut in small balls or any 
fancy shape wished and boil as above adding a little butter to the 
water; when tender, drain, place in dish and pour over a White 
Sauce ; adding a little sugar to latter gives a richer flavor. 

Mashed Turnips. — Wash, peel, cut in thin slices across the 
grain, and place in kettle in as little water as possible ; boil from 
half to three-quarters of an hour or until you can easily pierce them 
with a fork ; drain well, season with salt, pepper and butter, mash 
fine and place on stove, stirring frequently until water is all dried 
out. Boil rapidly as they are much sweeter when cooked quickly. 
Turnips may be steamed and finished as above, and are better than 
when boiled. Serve very hot as this is very important with turnips 
however cooked. The yellow variety take a longer time to cook but 
are much liked by those who use them. With Eggs, mash as above, 
and mix with an equal quantity of beaten eggs ; set back on stove, 
and stir until eggs are a little cooked. For Pickled Turnips, wash 
clean before boiling but do not pare them. If the rind is broken 
the juice escapes. When cooked take off" the outside, slice them 
like beets and pour hot spiced vinegar over them. They are to be 
eaten when newly cooked and warm, and are liked by some as well 
as Pickled Beets. For Turnip Oreens, wash greens well in two or 
three waters,and pick off all the decayed and dead leaves ; tie in small 
bunches, and put into plenty of boiling salted water. Keep boiling 
quickly, with lid of saucepan uncovered, and when tender, pour in ' 
colander ; drain well, arrange in dish, remove strings and serve. 

Boiled Dinner. — Put meat on, after washing well, in enough 
boiling water to just cover ; as soon as it boils, put kettle on stove 
where it will simmer or boil very slowly ; cook until almost tender, 
then put in vegetables in following order : Cabbage cut in quarters, 
turnips of medium size cut in halves, and potatoes whole, or if large 



876 VEGETABLES. 



cut in two ; peel potatoes and turnips, and allow to lie in cold water 
for half an hour before using. The meat should be well skimmed 
before adding vegetables ; boil together until thoroughly done ('add- 
ing a little salt before taking out of kettle), when there should be 
left only just enough water to prevent burning; take up vegetables 
in separate dishes, and lastly the meat; if there is any juice in ket- 
tle, pour it over cabbage. Boil cabbage an hour, white turnips and 
potatoes half an hour, ruta-bagas an hotir and a half to two hours. 
A soup plate or saucer turned upside down, or a few iron table- 
spoons are useful to place in bottom of kettle to keep meat from 
burning. Parsnips may be substituted in place of cabbage and 
turnips, cooking them three-quarters of an hour, and some think a 
boiled dinner incomplete without onions and squash, cooking them 
separately and steaming the latter is better. For Vegetable Hash^ 
chop, not very fine, the vegetables left from a boiled dinner, and 
season them with salt and pepper ; place in dripping pan, add bits 
of butter and heat in oven ; or to each quart chopped vegetables add 
half cup stock and tablespoon butter. Heat slowly in the frying- 
pan. Turn into a hot dish when done, and serve immediately. If 
vingear is liked, tWo or more tablespoons of it can be stirred into 
the hash while it is heating. 

Vegetable Stews. — These are of German or Swiss origin, and if 
well prepared are excellent. For a Cabbage Stew, take as much as 
needed, quarter, core and boil till fairly done, but not tender ; then 
skim out into a large pan of clear, cold water. Let it cool and drain ; 
press in colander or with the hands, then cut it fine or coarse just 
as liked ; meantime put on stove a kettle or saucepan — a deep frying- 
pan will do — with butter and drippings, half and half, rather more 
than for frying same amount potatoes,and add a minced onion or two. 
When it is slightly browned dredge with a tablespoon of flour to a 
quart of cabbage ; it should be rather moist. Pepper and salt to 
taste, stir frequently and cook slowly from half to three-quarters of 
an hour. Never put a cover on any of these vegetable stews while 
cooking as it would cause the thickening to settle to bottom and burn, 
Avhile the evaporating process that gives it flavor would be checked. 
If to guard against flies, a cover is necessary, use a wire one. For 
Bean Stew, put a teacup picked and washed white beans into just 
such a foundation as directed for Potato Stew, only the beans must 
be put on to cook three or four hours before dinner and need more 
•water than potatoes. Do not cover. Pea Stews, either with dried 
or split pease, are very good cooked in this way, though most people 
prefer to use smoked bacon for the fat part of the foundation for pease. 
In any of these stews, pork, salt or fresh can be used as fat instead 
of butter, lard or drippings. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, egg-plant, 
tomatoes, cauliflower or any vegetables can be stewed thus, making 
a variety of most wholesome and inexpensive dishes. Something 
similar to these stews is the Pepptr Pot: After washing thoroughly 



VEGETABLES. 877 



place pound and three-quarters of lioney-comb tripe in kettle with a 
two pound knuckle of veal and two quarts cold water ; when boiling, 
skim and then simmer slowly for six or seven hours, adding boiling 
water as needed. When done, strain, let stand overnight, remove fat 
and put the stock in kettle ; then add half a red pepper, cut in strips, 
tablespoon minced parsley and a medium-sized onion, chopped fine, 
and simmer three-quarters of an hour. Make a thickening of a 
tablespoon or two of the fat taken from soup with two tablespoons 
flour, stirring it smooth with a little of the broth from kettle ; add 
this, stirring in well and then add two or three medium-sized raw 
potatoes, chopped fine, with the tripe and veal cut in inch squares, 
cook five minutes, add some tiny Suet Dumplings, and after cook- 
ing fifteen minutes, serve. This makes a delicious stew and if more 
of a soup is wislied use four quarts water instead of two. 



Winter Vegetables. 



As vegetables are such a necessary part of our winter diet, it is 
essential to know the better ways of keeping them as nearly perfect 
as possible. Canning gives good results but it is considered by 
many quite an arduous task to can, so we give below methods of 
preserving in salt, drying, etc., that are claimed to be never failing. 



Beans iti Brine. — Wash, string, and cut up the pods, as if pre- 
paring for immediate cooking ; take a large earthen vessel or water- 
tight cask, sprinkle a layer of salt at the bottom, then fill up with 
alternate layers of cut beans and salt ; when the vessel is quite full, 
place a wooden plate on the top layer of salt, with a weight on it to 
press the whole mass well down. After standing a few days the 
vessel will be found little more than half full ; it can then be filled 
up with more cut beans and salt, and the process repeated till quite 
full. Place a liberal layer of salt on the top, put the wooden plate 
and weight on, and set in a cool place till required. Or string fresh 
green beans, and cut down the sides till within an inch of the end, 
boil in water fifteen minutes, take out and drain ; when cold, pack 
in a stone jar, first putting two tablespoons salt in bottom, then a 
quart of beans, sprinkle with a tablespoon salt, put in layer after layer 
in this way till the crock is full, pour over a pint of cold well-water 
(if not filled the first time, beans may be added until filled, putting 



878 VEGETABLES. 



in no more water after this pint), put on a cloth with a plate and 
weight, set away in cool place, and in about a week take off cloth, 
wash it out in a little salt water (there will be a scum upon it), put 
back as before, and repeat operation at end of another week ; then 
pack away, and when wanted for use, take out the quantity wanted 
and soak for half an hour, put in pot in cold water with a piece of 
fresh pork, cook half an hour, season with pepper and a little salt if 
needed ; or cook without pork, and season with butter and pepper ; 
or some fill the crock with the cooked beans and then cover with a 
strong brine made as for cucumbers. Or for Dried String Beans^ 
string and cut as for cooking and dry like corn. To use soak and 
cook as fresh ones. 

Dried Sweet Corn. — Take it when it is in good roasting ears, 
gather it fresh or if dependent on market, engage before and ask to 
have it freshly picked. After silking carefully, cut from the cob, 
being careful not to cut too close to cob, then take back of knife and 
scrape the ear; as soon as there is sufficient put in pans lined with 
brown paper (about an inch deep of corn) and place in not too hot 
an oven, watch carefully stirring occasionally and when thoroughly 
heated place on a cloth-covered table, or boards, out in the sun, pro- 
tect from flies with mosquito netting, nothing thicker, not always 
necessary to use anything, as the more quickly it is dried the sweeter 
it will be. In the course of an hour or two or even less, return to 
pans and reheat, watching carefully it does not burn. In the mean- 
time keep heating the fresh ; it is better not to cut more than can be 
placed in oven at once as the sooner corn is dried after being cut 
the better it is ; keep reheating and spreading out in sun as often as 
possible, four or five times during the day, as this method insures 
the most perfect of dried sweet corn. Continue with each lot till 
the grains rattle ; when done, reheat, and when cool jjut in paper 
sacks tied securely to protect from flies and keep in a dry cool 
place. Or the corn may be left out in sun all day taking in before 
sunset, (never leave it out too late to gather dampness), and then re- 
heated in morning and placed out again, continuing this till thor- 
oughly dried. Or some dry in moderate oven on plates, not plac- 
ing in sun at all, but this necessitates great watchfulness. The eas- 
iest and safest way, without risk of scorching is to prepare like the 
Neio Drocess Dried Corn; secure corn as above and after cleaning 
place the ears in a large steamer over the fire (one can be improvised 
by using a wash-boiler, with cover, putting in pieces of hard- 
wood in the bottom and placing a dripping pan on them or a piece 
of tin with holes in it), let remain a short time, only long enough 
to set the milk ; then cut about two-thirds depth of the kernel from 
cob with a very sharp knife and with back of knife scrape the in- 
side of the rest of the kernel from the cob. Have clean sheet or 
table-cloth laid on boards in the sun and as soon as a small quant- 
ity is prepared, place immediately on boards and continue above 



VEGETABLES. 879 



process till all is cut. A good drying day will nearly dry the corn 
sufficient to place in oven to finish in the evening, but it often hap- 
pens that the day is not such ; then place the cloth with the corn on 
it on tables or on a clean floor in a vacant room overnight, and put 
out in sun next day. Continue to do this till it is thoroughly dry, 
then place a thick paper in a dripping pan, pour in corn and put in 
a warm oven till corn is so hot it cannot be touched with the finger. 
While in stove watch constantly to keep from scorching or becom- 
ing brown, and finish as above. For Corn in Brine, select nice 
large ears just right for eating, remove all husks except inside row, 
place a layer of salt in a barrel, (a hard-wood one is better) then 
layer of ears of corn, then salt, etc., till all is used ; add enough 
water to form a brine, and cover with board, cloth and weight as for 
Cucumbers in Brine. Corn ma}'- be added during the season, caring 
for the covering as directed in Pickles. To use, freshen overnight 
and cook as new corn. For Cut Corn in Brine., scald corn just 
enough to set the milk, cut from cob and to every four pints corn 
add pint salt, mix thoroughly, pack in jars, and cover with a cloth 
and weight ; when wanted for use put in a saucepan or kettle, cover 
with cold water ; as soon as it comes to a boil pour off and put on 
cold again, and repeat until it is fresh enough ; when tender, add a 
very little sugar, sweet cream, or butter, etc., to taste and serve. Or 
Corn may be steamed instead of being scalded, and some use 
one-fourth or even one-third salt, soaking overnight or longer, if 
necessary, before cooking. 

Zr?«Z^e6?(1^6>r/?.— This old fashioned luxury is really a delicious dish 
when properly prepared. Take a six-quart pail full of ashes (hard 
wood ashes if possible as the}- are stronger) ; put them into an iron 
kettle with three gallons water ; let boil about five minutes, then set 
off from fire, and turn in a pint of cold water to settle it. The water 
should then feel a little slippery. Turn off lye and strain ; put it 
into an iron kettle, and put in six quarts shelled corn ; put it over a 
brisk fire, and let boil half an hour, skinnning and stirring frequently 
(the outside skin of the kernels will then slip off) ; strain off lye, and 
rinse thoroughly in several clear waters. When the lye is thus 
weakened, turn corn into a large pan and turn in water enough to 
cover it; then rub thoroughly with the hands, till the black chits 
come off; rinse and strain off till water looks clear; then put back 
into a clean kettle, with water enough to cover it, and let it boil; 
then turn off water, put on again, and parboil three or four times (it 
will swell to about double the first quantity) ; the last time boil till 
quite soft ; it may be necessar}' to add water occasionally ; stir often 
so as not to burn at bottom of the kettle ; when quite soft, put in 
two large tablespoons salt, and stir well ; to be eaten with milk, or 
butter and sugar. It is a wholesome dish, and although there is 
trouble in preparing it, yet it is good enough to pay for the labor 



8S0 VEGETABLES. 



and trouble. It is good either hot or cold, and was considered by 
our grandparents to be one of the greatest luxuries of the table. 
Smaller quantities may be prepared by using less lye and corn. Or 
With Soda^ cover two quarts ripe corn with water, add a tablespoon 
soda, and boil until the hull slips off. Then wash and boil three or 
four different times, adding salt the last time. Serve as above. 

Dried Green Pease. — Shell green pease, and boil until about 
half done in a little salted water. Take out and spread upon plates 
and dry in the oven. Dried String Beans prepared in same way. 

Dried Pumpkin. — Peel, cut in pieces and stew as for pies ; then 
spread very thin on greased plates and dry. Make into pies as directed 
in Pastry. Prepare peaches in same way, making what is known as 
Peach Leather. Pumpkin may also be cut in rings, peeled and 
dried ; when wanted for use cook till soft and use as fresh pumpkin. 

Ripe Tomatoes in Brine. — Make strong brine in- barrel as for 
Cucumbers, and put in tomatoes ; cover but do not put a heavy weight 
on them as it will bruise them. To use, soak overnight, then pre- 
pare as fresh tomatoes. Tomatoes iti Bard, wipe nice tomatoes 
dry, and pack a small stone jar two-thirds full ; fill up with good lard 
and cover. To use, wash them in hot water. For Tomatoes in 
Vinegar, take a crock or jar, as large as wanted and fill with toma- 
toes, washed nice and clean, cover them with strong brine, one week ; 
then pour off and cover with vinegar, put a light weight on and set 
them in the cellar ; when wanted, slice them and sprinkle sugar and 
pepper over them. These will keep till spring. 

Vegetable Medley. — Take a tight iron-hooped barrel, put in a 
strong brine and add the different vegetables as received, quartering 
the cabbage, stringing the beans and husking and silking the corn, 
or the inner husk may be left on. Vegetables may be put in from 
time to time, being very careful all are kept well under brine, and tie a 
cloth over barrel to keep out dust. Smaller vegetables such as 
pease, shelled beans, etc., may be put in cheese-cloth sacks. To cover 
the top of brine it is nice to have a barrel head small enough to 
slip into barrel, with strips nailed across it to hold it together and a 
handle with which to lift it out. Soak vegetables overnight when 
wanted for use. Water-melofi Binds may be prepared and put up 
this wa3^, and made into preserves when wanted. Peaches may also 
be kept thus and pickled as wished. If the brine evaporates make 
more and keep plenty in the barrel. Great care must be taken not 
to bruise vegetables put up in this way. 



A year's bill of fare. S81 



A YEAR'S BILL OF FARE. 

The following arrangement of Bills of Fare for every day in the year has 
been made with especial reference to convenience, economy, and adaption 
to the wants of ladies who are so fortunate as to be obliged to look after their- 
own kitchens— not for those who employ professional cooks. The recipes 
referred to are all contained in this book, and may be quickly found by refer- 
ence to the alphabetical index. The bills of fare are not, of course, arbitrary, 
but are intended to suggest such a variety as will meet the wants of the 
whole family. The arrangement was made for a year beginning with Thurs- 
day. When the current year begins earlier, the last days of December may 
be used to precede those here given for January, and the dates changed on 
the margin with a soft pencil, so that they may be readily erased and changed 
again for subsequent years. A daily references to these pages will, we feel 
sure, save the housewife much puzzling over the question, "What shall we 

For the sake of brevity, coffee, tea, chocolate, lemonade in hot weather, 
and milk in cold weather, have not been mentioned in the bills of fare. 
They are of course appropriate to any meal, and are to be used according 
to taste Soup as a regular dinner course, is always in order, following oys- 
ters raw when the latter are in season. Soups vary in name far more than 
in quality. Much of the slop served as soup a la this, that and the other, 
would not, except for the name, be recognized as something to be taken into 
the human stomach. This, however, may be a matter of small importance 
when a bountiful dinner of good things is to follow, but in cases where 
healthv stomachs are demanding supplies, a really good soup, with or with- 
out name, is heartily relished, and is very wholesome as preparing the way 
for more solid food. In any family where soup is relished a suthcient sup- 
ply may be made daily, or as often as desired, with but little trouble and 
trifling addition to the regular expenses. ^ , , 

Fresh fish, as a separate course, comes next m order. Large fish of 
6ome sort are usually considered most elegant, either baked or boiled, for 
dinner, and they are really nice when they can be procured freshly killed 
anddrippingwith their native waters. , •, ^ 

Bread is always an accompaniment of every course at dinner, bread and 
butter beino' more properlv a part of dessert. Cheese is to most persons a 
pleasant tit-bit at dessert, and pickles, of one or another variety, appropriate 
to the dishes served, are seen on the table at nearly every meal. 



S82 A year's bill of fare. 

On Sunday, in most families, the dinner is delayed until two or three 
o'clock and the supper omitted entirely, and in winter when the days are 
short, especially in the more northern states, two meals a day is the rule 
for every day. In large cities, too, where business hours are fewer, and the 
men of the household lunch down town on account of the distance residences 
are from business, the dinner is delayed until later in the day, and the bill 
of fare varied accordingly. 

Fruits, in their natural state, are too much neglected at the table of peo- 
ple in moderate circumstances. Pies, puddings and other compounds, 
made partly of fruit, are generally less wholesome and really less palatable 
than the fruit itself in a natural state or with some simple dressing. In most 
localities berries in their season are not costly. Strawberries, fresh, ripe 
and luscious, for breakfast, dinner and supper, can not be substituted by 
any thing more agreeable and refreshing, and as the season for this fruit is 
always short it is scarcely possible to weary of them. Scarcely less delicious 
are the raspberries, blackberries and huckleberries which follow soon. Then 
come ripe water-melons, cantelopes, nutmeg and musk melons and grapes, 
peaches and pears. Those who raise their own melons will need no instruc- 
tion on the subject of serving and eating them. After the fruit is well grown, 
a good shot-gun and a keen eye on the "patch" is all that is necessary to 
secure a ripe crop. But to the dainty housekeeper who must buy her melon 
after a week or two of shipping, reshipping, transporting and handling, until 
it has cost nearly its weight in gold, the best instructions are : Get your 
melon as fresh as possible ; let it remain on ice several hours or all night ; if 
it cuts crisp, and has ripe seeds and tastes well flavored, cut the ends ofi' and 
set up on a dish ; divide both halves through the middle and serve in long 
slices or cut in rings, passing a waiter to receive the rinds ; or pare the melon 
entire, put on platter, and place before the host to serve in rings or slices. 
But if the meat of the melon appears wilted or withered, or is not perfectly 
ripe, pass it to the four-footed beasts, where it should have gone in the first 
place. Those who can afford the more costly tropical fruit, such as bananas 
and pine-apples, should slice them as thin as possible, place in the prettiest 
and shallowest glass fruit-stands, and cover well with sugar for some time 
before serving. 

Suggestions for the tasteful decoration of the table will be found under 
"The Dining Eoom." 

Bill of Fare for January. 

1 . Breakfast — Waffles, broiled steak, fried apples. Dinner — Roast duck, 
apple sauce, a brown stew, mashed turnips, baked sweet-potatoes, celery; 
prairie plum pudding with prairie sauce, fruit cake, oranges. Supper — Light 
biscuit, whipped cream with preserves, sliced beef. For more elaborate bill 
of fare see that for New Year's. 

2. Breakfast. — Corn muffins, broiled fish, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — 
Macaroni soup, salmi of duck, roasted potatoes, oyster salad, canned pease, 
celery sauce ; pumpkin pie. Supper — Toasted muffins, shaved dried beef, 
tea, rusk, baked apples. 

3. Breakfast — Cracked wheat, pig's feet souse, breakfast potatoes. Din- 
ner — Boiled bacon with cabbage, potatoes, turnips, carrots, onion sauce, 
chicken pie ; bread pudding with sauce. Supper — Biscuit, cold bacon shaved, 
bread and milk, sponge cake and jelly. 

4. Sunday. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, croquettes of sausage meat, 
breakfast hominy. Dinner — Roast turkey, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, 
cranberry sauce, celery ; mince pie, ambrosia, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, 
sliced turkey, cranberry jelly, apple sauce. 



A year's bill of fare. 883 

5. Breakfast — Graham cakes, fried tripe, potato cakes. Dinner — Escal- 
oped turkey, baked potatoes, pickled beets ; cottage pudding, cake. Supper 
— Dried heel frizzled, hot buns, fried apples. 

6. Breakfast— Gfval\a.m gems, broiled mutton, potatoes a la pancake. 
Dinner — Turkey soup, roasted beef with potatoes, stewed tomatoes, celery ; 
rice pudding, fruit cake. Supper — Cold buns, sliced beef, Indian pudding 
(corn meal mush) and milk. 

7. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried mush and maple syrup, fried liver. 
Dinner — Meat pie with chili sauce, mashed turnips, stewed corn; apple 
dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Tea rolls, sardines with sliced lemon, 
rusk, jelly. 

8. Breakfast — Beat biscuit broiled steak, ringed potatoes. Dinner — 
Baked chicken garnished with fried oysters, potatoes in their jackets, cran- 
berry sauce, tomatoes, slaw ; molasses pudding, lady fingers. Supper — Cold 
biscuit, boned chicken, sponge cake, canned peaches. 

9. Breakfast— Toast, fried fish, potatoes fried. Din7ier—StnSed baked 
rabbit, whole boiled potatoes, salsify stewed, celery sauce; apple float, 
pumpkin pie, cake. Sapper — French rolls, cold tongue, sliced oranges. 

10. Breakfast — Bread puffs, broiled sausage, whole potatoes fried. Din- 
ner — Saturday" bean soup, fried mutton chops, plain boiled rice, baked pota- 
toes, beef salad ; March pudding with sauce. Supper — Plain bread, bologna 
sausage, jelly cake. 

11. Sundaij. Breakfast. Baked beans and brown bread, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast goose, steamed potatoes and turnips, slaw, onion sauce, plum 
jelly; mince pie, chocolate tarts, oranges, zufolos. Supper — Cold biscuit, 
cold goose, apple jelly. 

12. Birakfast.— Oatmeal porridge, hashed goose with gravy, plain bread. 
Dinner — Roast mutton, potatoes, canned peas, caper sauce; delicious lemon 
pudding, sponge cake. Supper. — Graham gems, sliced mutton, currant 

jelly- 

13. Breakfast— Corn batter cakes, croquettes of mutton or pates hot with 
gravy. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, parsnips, chili sauce; 
baked custard, jelly cake. Supper— 'Dry toast, sliced beef, canned fruit. 

14. Breakfast — Stewed kidneys, Graham bread, fricassed potatoes. 
Dinner — Oyster pie, potatoes, tomatoes, salsify, celery ; apple fritters with 
sugar. 

15. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, hash, cracked wheat and cream — Dinner — 
Roast duck, potatoes, winter succotash, onions baked, celery; cocoanut pud- 
ding, oranges, jelly cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold duck, plain 
rice with cream. 

16. Breakfast — Rice cakes, spare ribs broiled, fried raw potatoes. Din- 
ner — Baked fish, canned corn, tomato sauce, fricassee of salmon or halibut, 
baked potatoes ; tapioca pudding. Supper— AVarm rolls, pressed meat, 
orange short cake. 

17. Breakfast — WaflBes, mutton chops broiled, potatoes fried. Dinner — 
Chicken pot-pie, canned beans, celery ; peach rolls, oranges. Supper — Tea 
rolls, sliced and toasted bologna sausage, apples. 

18. Sunday. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled steak, stewed tomatoes. Din- 
ner — Roast pork with parsnips, molded potatoes, apple sauce, celery ; cold 
apple pie, rice snow. Supper — Muffins, cold chicken, canned fruit, light 
cake. 

19. Breakfast — Fried sausage, buckwheat cakes, duchesse potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast beef, baked potatoes, tomatoes, beet salad ; apple dumplings 
with sauce, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced beef, stewed apples, mush and 
milk. 

20. Breakfast— Vlam bread, fried mush, pig's feet souse. Dinner— Boiled 
leg of mutton with soup, potatoes, boiled tongue dressed, canned corn, eel- 



884 A year's bill of fare, 

ery sauce ; pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold tongue, apple 
fritters with sauce. 

21. Breakfast — Hot rolls, mutton croquettes, flannel cakes. Dinner — 
Meat pie, baked sweet potatoes, canned succotash, cabbage salad ; hot peach 
pie with cream. Supper — Cold biscuit, sliced tongue, buns, apples and Cov- 
entry tarts. 

22. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled steak, potatoe croquettes. Dinner — 
Roast duck, potatoes, salsify, onion salad, cranberry jelly; bread pudding 
with sauce. Supper — Beefsteak toast, cold duck, currant jelly. 

23. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled fish, potato balls. Dinner — 
Oyster pie, mashed potatoes, baked beets, celery sauce ; chocolate pudding, 
oranges. Supper — Light biscuit, cold pressed meat, bread and milk. 

24. Breakfast — Breakfast wheat, broiled spare ribs, tomato satice. Din- 
ner — Boiled ham with cabbage, potatoes, parsnips, carrots, beets; warm pie 
of dried fruit. Supper — Hot rolls, shaved ham, fried apples, cream crisps. 

25. Sunday. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled tenderloin, vegetable hash. 
Dinner — Stewed Oysters, roast turkey with potatoes, turnips, Lima beans, 
apple sauce, celery; mince pie, bavarian cream. Supper — Muffins, cold tur- 
key, canned fruit, tea cakes. 

26. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, turkey croquettes, hominy. Dinner — 
Boiled corned beef with turnips, potatoes, carrots; horseradish gravy; sago 
pudding. Supper — Light biscuit, sliced corn beef, baked apples. 

27. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled mutton, potatoes. Dinner — Es- 
caloped turkey, baked potatoes, split pease, onion salad ; Buckeye dumplings 
with sauce. Supper — Toasted gems, pates of cold turkey, tea rusk, jelly. 

28. Breakfast — Gluten cakes, bi'oiled beefsteak, potatoes. Dinner — 
Chicken boiled with soup, whole potatoes boiled, plain boiled rice, cabbage 
salad; apple pie, cake. Supper — Vienna rolls, cold chicken, canned fruit, 
cake. 

29. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled sausage, fricassed potatoes. Din- 
ner — Roast beef, potatoes, chicken salad, cranberry sauce, celery ; plain boil- 
ed pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold beef, rice fritters 
with jelly. 

30. Breakfast — Oatmeal porridge, panned oysters on toast, fried raw 
potatoes. Dinner— Baked fish, mashed potatoes, mayonnaise of salmon, 
salsify stewed, cranberry sauce ; brown betty, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, 
fish balls, apple fritters with sugar. 

31. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, pork steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Fillet 
of beef stuffed and baked, potatoes, cabbage salad, beets ; apple tapioca, 
cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold beef, rice blanc-mange. 

Bill of Fare for February. 

1. Sunday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled sirloin steak, Saratoga po- 
tatoes. Dinner — Chicken pie with oysters, roast potatoes, salsify, dried 
Lima beans, lobster salad, currant jelly; orange pudding, fruit cake. Sup- 
per — Cold rolls, cold tongue, cake and jelly. 

2. Breakfast — Corn pone, stewed tripe, potatoes a la Lyonnaise. Din- 
ner — Baked heart, whole boiled potatoes and carrots, stewed tomatoes; 
canned fruit and cake. Supper — Toasted pone, cold heart sliced, plain bread, 
quince preserves with whipped cream. 

3. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled sausage, breakfast hominy. 
Dinner— Roast mutton, mashed potatoes, baked macaroni, celery, current 
jelly ; chocolate blanc-mange, sponge cake. Supper — Cold mutton sliced, 
currant jelly, buttered toast, rusk, stewed apples. 

4. Breakfast — Cerealine cakes, broiled bacon, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Boiled corned beef with horseradish gravy, whole boiled potatoes and tur- 



A year's bill op fare. 885 

nips, slaw ; hot apple pie with whipped cream, oranges and cake. Supper — 
Toasted Graham bread, cold corn beef sliced, grape jelly, hot buns. 

5. Breakfast — Broiled fish, corn batter cakes, potatoe rissoles. Dinner — 
Roast beef with potatoes, tomatoes, canned beans, celery sauce; molasses 
pudding, cake. Supper — Cold roast beef, beat biscuit, floating island, tea 
cakes. 

6. Breakfast — Broiled oysters on toast, tomato sauce, flannel cakes with 
honey or maple syrup. Dinner — Baked or broiled fish if fresh, or friccased 
if canned, mashed potatoes, fried parsnips, cabbage salad, apple dumplings 
with sauce. Supper — Creamed codfish, corn mush hot with milk, canned 
fruit and light cakes. 

7. Breakfast — Broiled mutton chops, fried mush, scrambled eggs. Din- 
ner — Beef soup, whole potatoes boiled, ham boiled, cabbage, parsnips, 
mixed pickles ; cottage pudding witii sance, cake- Supper — Light biscuit, 
cold ham shaved, apple croutes, plain rice with sugar and cream. 

8. Sunday. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, ham balls, fried raw potatoes. 
Dinner — Oyster soup, roast duck, potatoes baked, turnips mashed, cranberry 
sauce, celery ; orange ice, oranges, iced cakes. Supper — Cold Sally Lunn, 
cold duck, dried apples. 

9. Breakfast — Breakfast wheat, croquetts of cold meat or broiled bacon 
with potatoes. Dinner — Apple soup, baked jwtatoes, apple sauce, salmi of 
duck, pickled oysters, bread and apple pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — 
Light biscuit, ham relish, canned fruit. 

10. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled steak, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — 
Bouillon, baked chicken, potatoes, salsify, onion sauce, celery; hot peach 
pie with cream, chocolate cake, oranges. Supper — Rolls, cold chicken, 
apple fritters with sugar. 

IL Breakfast — Graham gems, fried liver, potatoes. Dinner — Mutton 
soup, boiled mutton with caper sauce, potatoes, canned pease, mixed pickles ; 
boiled fruit pudding with hard sauce. Supper — Toasted gems, cold mutton 
sliced, short cake and jam. . 

12. Brealcfast— Hoi pates of mutton with rich, brown gravy, plain bread, 
fried potatoes. Dinner — Chicken fricassee, boiled tongue dressed, potatoes, 
boiled onions, tomato sauce; pumpkin pie. Supper — Bread biscuit, cold 
tongue shaved, charlotte cachee cake and floating island. 

13. Breaefast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, potatoes. Dinner — Boiled 
turkey with oyster sauce, mashed potatoes and turnips, grape jelly, celerj'; 
roly poly of dried fruit with jelly sauce, sponge cake. Supper — Toasted 
muffins, cold turkey, currant jelly. 

14. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled spare ribs, potato croquettes. 
Dinner — Escaloped turkey, cranberry sauce, boiled meat with cabbage, po- 
tatoes, carrots, pickled beets ; apple meringue. Supper — Oatmeal porridge, 
toasted crackers, bologna sausage, fried apples, cakes. 

15. Sunday, Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled oysters, potatoes. Dinner — 
Turkey soup, chicken pie with oysters, potatoes, Lima beans, slaw, celery; 
mince pie, cranberry tarts, oranges, cakes. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced dried 
beef, custard cake and jelly. 

16. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled beef steak, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Bean soup, roast beef currant jelly, potatoes, turnips; pie. Supper — 
Plain bread, beef steak toast, rice fritters with sugar. 

17. Breakfast — Corn cakes', hash, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast pork 
with sweet potatoes or parsnips, pudding of canned corn, pickled beets, 
apple custard pie, jelly cake. Supper — Sardines, sweet buns, preserved fruit 
with whipped cream. 

18. Breakfast — Hot biscuit, broiled pork, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Potato soup, mashed potatoes, salsify, beef steak pudding, celery; chocolate 



A year's bill of fare. 



custard, golden cream cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, cold tongue, currant 
jelly; apple croutes. 

19. Breakfast — Graham bread, creamed codfish, fried potatoes Din- 
ner — Baked stuffed Tieart, potatoes, tomatoes, celery; corn-stach blanc- 
mange. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold heart sliced, dried fruit 
stewed, zephyr cake. 

20. Breakfast — Cream toast, fried oysters, plain bread. Dinner — 
Oyster pie, mashed potatoes, baked squash, tomato sauce, slaw; hot peach 
pie with whipped cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, r^armalade, bread 
and milk. 

21. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled sausage, hominy. Dinner — 
Saturday bean soup, boiled potatoes, ham boiled, cabbage, carrots, celery- 
sauce ; pumpkin pie. Supper — Plain bread, shaved ham, lemon fritters with 
sugar. 

'22. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, fried 
apples and dried corn fritters. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast of mutton, baked 
potatoes, Lima beans, tomatoes, salsify, cranberry jelly, celery, mayonnaise 
of salmon ; mince pie, ambrosia and fruit cake. Supper — High rolls, mutton, 
currant jelly, chocolate blanc-mange, Yule cake. 

23. Breakfast — Beat biscuit, mutton warmed in butter, or broiled fish, 
croquettes of cold vegetables. Diviner — Beef a la mode, mashed potatoes and 
turnips, boiled rice, cottage pudding, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, dried 
beef, apple tapioca pudding. 

24. Breakfast — Rice cake, pigs' feet souse, potato cakes. Dinner — Am- 
ber soup, chicken pie, stewed onions, turnips, pickled beets ; boiled batter 
pudding with cream sauce. Supper — Buttered toast, baked apples and whip- 
ped cream, tea cakes. 

25. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, boiled eggs. Dinner — 
Roast turkey, mashed potatoes, turnips, canned pease, cranberry sauce, 
celery; poor man's pudding, cranberry tarts. Supper — Light biscuit, cold 
turkey, tea rusk, canned fruit. 

26. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Boil- 
ed mutton with soup, mashed potatoes, canned corn, tomatoes, celery, apple 
sauce ; bread pudding with fruit, cocoanut cake. Supper — Cold mutton, 
toasted rusk, jelly. 

27. Breakfast — Hot rolls, turkej^ hash and potatoes rissoles. Dinner — 
Turkey soup, baked or boiled fish, meat pie, mashed potatoes, plain rice, 
salsify ; prune pudding with whipped cream, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, fish 
balls, apple fritters with sugar. 

28. Breakfast — Bread puff's, broiled spare ribs or bacon, creamed pota- 
toes. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, boiled shoulder of ham with cabbage, 
potatoes, parsnips, carrots, pickled beets ; lemon pie. Supper — Bread and 
milk hot, cold ham, jelly and cake. 

29. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, fried 
potatoes, omelet. Dinner — Stewed oysters, baked chicken, mashed potatoes, 
cabbage salad, celery, cheese ramakins ; charlotte russe, cranberry tarts, 
oranges, cakes and nuts. Supper — Muffins, cold chicken, grape jelly, cocoa- 
nut cake and fruits. 

Bill of Fare for March. 

1. Breakfast — Cream toast, chicken croquettes, boiled eggs. Dinner — 
Beefsteak pudding, stewed salsify, baked potatoes, lobster salad, celery ; one- 
two-three-four pudding, jelly cake, nuts, raisins. Supper — Light biscuit, 
codfish with cream, canned fruit and jelly roll. 

2. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled mutton chops, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Oj'Ster soup, "roast beef with potatoes, kidney beans saute, horseradish sauce j 
cream pie, sponge cake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced beef, jam. 



A year's bill of fare. 887 

3. Breakfast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, escaloped eggs. Dinner — Boil- 
ed salt cod with mashed potatoes, canned pease, cabbage salad; baked cus- 
tard, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage sliced, broiled and buttered ; hot plain 
bread, toasted rusk, raspberry jam. 

4. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled beefsteak, breakfast hominy. Dinner — 
Soup of beef bones and vegetables to taste, oyster pie, mashed potatoes, 
stewed celery, pickled beets ; steamed batter pudding with rich sauce, cake. 
Supper — Toasted muffins, cold sliced beef, baked apples hot, and tea cakes. 

5. Breakfast. — Yankee dried beef, poached eggs on buttered toast, plain 
bread. Dinner — Baked fish, lemon sauce, mashed potatoes, spinach, orange 
pudding with jelly sauce, cake. Supper — Plain bread, broiled scotch her- 
ring, crackers split, toasted and buttered, short cake with jelly. 

6. Breakfast — Corn pone or griddle cakes, fried beefsteak, fried onions. 
Dinner — Beef a la mode, potatoes Kentucky style, carrots saute, cabbage 
slaw with cream dressing, mixed pickles, Italian cream and cake. Supjjer — 
Cold pone sliced and toasted, or plain bread toasr, cold beef sliced, warm 
ginger-bread and farina blanc-mange. 

7. Sunday. Bre^kfa^t — Sally Lunn, broiled ham, tomato omelet. Din- 
ner — Stewed oysters, roast mutton, mashed potatoes, canned pease, currant 
jelly, celery; moonshine, oranges, nuts and cakes. Supper — Cold meat 
shaved, sponge cakes and preserved fruit. 

8. Breakfast — Batter cakes, mutton warmed over, potatoes, escaloped 
eggs. Dinner — Boiled beef's tongue dressed with sauce piquante, stewed 
potatoes, boiled onions ; half-hour pudding. Supper — Cold biscuit, shaved 
tongue, orange float. 

9. Breakfast — Buttered toast, pork chops broiled, hominy grits. Din- 
ner — Tomato soup, pigeon pie, diced potatoes, canned corn or beans, pickles ; 
steamed pudding with sauce, almonds, raisins. Supper — Plain bread, sar- 
dines with lemon, light coffee cake or sweet buns and jam. 

10. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, mutton chops broiled, potatoes. Dinner 
Beefsteak soup, broiled steak, potatoes boiled whole, salsify, oyster salad, 
sweet pickles, transparent pudding, cream puffs, oranges. Supper — Beat 
biscuit, cold meat, ap})le fritters with sugar, sponge cake. 

11. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled fish, potatoes. Dinner — Corned 
beef boiled with turnips or parsnips, canned corn, boiled onions, horse-rad- 
ish sauce : cocoanut pie. Supper — Toasted graham bread, cold beef shaved, 
warm rusk and jelly. 

12. Breakfast. Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, boiled eggs, or omelet 
souffle. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish or steaks of halibut, mashed potatoes, 
stewed carrots, onion sauce ; eggless ice cream, apples and nuts. Supper — 
Pates of fish, oyster roll, toasted rusk and sweet omelet. 

13. Breakfast — Bread putt's, ham putts, potatoes. Dinner — Saturday 
bean soup, escaloped oysters, tomatoes, pickled beets; kiss pudding with 
sauce, cake. Supper — French rolls ; cold tongue, bread fritters. 

14. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans with pork and Boston brown 
b'-ead, omelet. Dinner — Roast turkey, potatoes, canned corn, plum jelly, 
youn'] lettuce broken up {not cut) heaped lightly in a dish and ornamented 
with sliced eggs; Charlotte russe, jell}' and sponge cake. Suj^jjer — Cold 
turkey, cranberr}' jelly, canned fruit, jam and cake. 

15. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, Inctiola potatoes, 
fried onions. Dnner — Roast beef, potatoes boiled in jackets, onion sauce, 
steamed rice, mixed pickles ; bird^-nest pudding. Supper — Light biscuit, 
broiled oysters, orange souffle, and plain cake. 

16. Breakfast — Rice cakes, breakfast stew, baked eggs. Dimier — Meat 

Eie, mashed potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; peach rolls. Supper — Plain 
read, dried beef, whipped cream with preserved fruit. 



888 A year's bill of fare. 



17. Breakfast— Hot rolls, broiled beef steak, castle potatoes. Dinner— 
Boiled leg of mutton with soup, stuffed potato, parsnips, sweet pickles ; bread 
pudding, cake. Supper— Cold rolls, shaved mutton, boiled corn mush or 
hasty pudding with milk. 

18. Breakfast— Fhdn bread, fried jnush, broiled bacon, breakfast pota- 
toes. Dinner — Roast duck, baked potatoes, stewed tomatoes, currant, plum 
or grape jelly ; corn-starch pie. Supper— Bwiiereil toast, cold duck, jelly 
and cream cakes. 

19. Breal'fast — Graliam gems, broiled shad or mackerel with cream 
dressing (salt fish should be gL'utly steamed, never boiled), boiled eggs. 
Dinner— Sa\mi of duck, or duck pates htjt with gravy, steamed potatoes, 
turnips, celery sauce; turret cream, jelly cake, nuts, raisins. Supper — 
Toasted gems, bologna sausage, tea buns, stewed pi'unes or other dried 
fruit. 

20. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled mutton chops, baked omelet. Din- 
ner — Bacon boiled, cabbage sprouts, potatoes, parsnips, pickled beets; tart- 
lets of dried fruit, warm ginger-cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn. cold 
pressed meat, rice fritters with sugar, jelly. 

22. Breakfast— Flain bread, chicken pates hot, puff omelet. Dinner. — 
Roast beef, potatoes, tomatoes, canned corn, Yorkshire pudding, pickled 
beets; Monday pudding, cake. >S'«j9joer— -Buttered toast, cold beef sliced, 
bread fritters with sugar, jelly. 

23. Breakfast — Hot rolls, fried liver, boiled eggs. Dinner — Soup (made 
of bones of previous days' roast with vegetables or noodles), oyster pie, 
mashed potatoes, turnips, celery sauce; iced apples, cake. Supper — Cold 
rolls, mince of cold beef escaloped with eggs, coffee cake. 

24. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled ham, hen's nest. Dinner — Boiled leg 
of mutton, whole potatoes, canned peas; queen of puddings with sauce, 
cake. Supper— Toasted muffins, cold mutton, currant jelly, Florida grape 
fruit. 

25. Breakfast — French pancakes, sausage, hominy. Dinner — Roast 
duck, bread sauce, parsnips, baked onions, lettuce ; peach dumplings with 
sauce, cake. Supper — Plain bread, Welsh rarebit, hot rusk, marmalade. 

26. Breakfast — Corn muffins, fried ham and eggs. Dinner — Fresh fish, 
duchesse potatoes, salmi of duck, onion sauce, boiled rice, grape jelly; 
lemon dumplings, dried figs and nuts. Supper— Toasted muffins, cold 
pressed meat, cold rusk, stewed fruit. 

27. Breakfast — Graham bread, croquettes of fish, omelet with parsley. 
Dinner — Boiled corn beef, potatoes, spinach or turnips, carrots, horseradish 
sauce : rice snow balls with custar^ sauce, canned fruit and cake. Supper — 
Toasted graham bread, cold corned beef, oatmeal porridge with cream. 

28. Easter Sunday. Breakfast — Broiled sirloin steak, French rolls young 
radishes, Saratoga potatoes, boiled eggs, waffles and honey. Dinner — Chicken 
soup or green turtle with Italian paste, fresh fish boiled with drawn butter 
and sliced eggs, or fish stuffed and baked served with lemon and parsley, 
mashed potatoes, glazed ham, pudding of canned corn, tomato sauce, chicken 
salad, pickles, celery, grape jelly, game ; cream pie, assorted cakes, Easter 
jelly, Easter pudding, fruits, nuts and coffee. Supper or Luncheon — Cold 
rolls, cream biscuit, cold ham, currant jelly, oysters baked on shell, cakes 
and fruit, chocolate or tea, ribbon jelly. 

29. Breakfast — Plain bread, escalope of cold ham with eggs, potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast beef , potatoes, turnips, cabbage salad; cottage pudding with 
sauce, cake. Supper — Warm bread and milk, cold meat, preserved tarts. 

30. .5rea^/asi!--Corn cakes, roulades of cold roast beef, potatoes. Din- 
ner — Soup, roast of mutton, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce dressed; lemon pit-, 
Supper — Beat biscuits, cold mutton, preserved fruit, plain cake. 



A year's bill of fake. 



81. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, broiled ham, stuffed eggs. Dinner — Boiled 
tongue, mutton stew with potatoes, steamed rice ; lemon pudding, cake. 
Supper — Cold biscuit, shaved tongue, rice fritters with sug^r. 

Bill of Fare for April. 

1. Breakfast — Long breakfast rolls, broiled porter-house steak, hominy 
croquettes. Dinner — Chicken soup, chicken dressed with egg sauce, whole 
potatoes, spinach, young lettuce and onions, sweet pickles ; orange float, 
caramel, cake. Supper — Cold chicken and currant jelly, cold rolls, snow 
custard, cake. 

2. Breakfast — Fried frogs, fried potatoes, corn gems, scrambled eggs. 
Dinner — Beefsteak soup, beefsteak pudding, steamed potatoes, mashed tur- 
nips, slaw ; almond custard, jelly. Supper — Plain bread, pates of cold 
chicken, hot short-cake and jam. 

3. Breakfast — Graham bread, veal cutlets, fricassed potatoes. Dinner 
— Boiled ham with potatoes, canned-corn pudding, parsnips fried, mixed 
pickles ; hot pie of canned peaches, cake. Supper — Graham toast, cold 
sliced ham, hot rusk, stewed fruit. 

4. Stniday. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled mutton chops, young rad- 
ishes, puff omelet. Dinner — Beef soup, chicken pie, scalloped potatoes, 
young lettuce and onions ; banana pie, mixed cake. Supper — Plain bread, 
cold rusk, jelly, 

5. Breakfast — Light rolls, codfish mountain, fried raw potatoes. Dinner 
— Roast beef, turnips, potatoes, tomato sauce, pickled oysters, caramel cus- 
tard, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, cold beef sliced, maple biscuit and jam. 

6. Breakfast — Muffins, fried liver, fried potatees. Dinner — Mutton soup, 
mutton garnished with eggs, pickles, creamed potatoes, canned tomatoes; 
bread pudding with sauce, oranges and cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, 
sliced mutton, sponge cake and jelly. 

7. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, minced mutton or broiled chops, breakfast 
potatoes. Dinner — Baked pig, mashed potatoes, parsnips fried, lettuce ; 
lemon pudding, jelly cake. Stipper — Yankee dried beef, soda biscuit and 
honey, floating island. 

8. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veai cutlets, potato cakes. Dinner — Baked 
stuffed heart, potatoes a la pancake, turnips, canned corn, pickled eggs ; cup 
custard, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold sliced heart, bread fritters with 
sugar. 

9. Breakfast — French rolls, broiled fish if salt, fried if fresh, fried raw 
potatoes, tomato sauce. Dinner — Baked or broiled fresh fish, mashed pota- 
toes, cann ed pease or beans, lettuce, onions ; Estelle pudding, jelly tarts. 
Supper — Cold rolls, bologna sausage sliced, steamed crackers, cake and pre- 
served fruit. 

10. Breakfast — Batter cakes, broiled chops, scrambled eggs, potato ris- 
soles. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, broiled beefsteak, spinach, potato puffs, 
pickled beets ; half-hour pudding with sauce, oranges and cake. Suppei — 
Toasted bread, cold tongue sliced, hot buns and marmalade.. 

11. Sunday. Brealcfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, ome- 
lette with parsley. Dinner — Vermicelli soup, baked shad or croquettes of 
canned lobster, broiled squabs or pigeon pie, potatoes mashed, turnips, 
asparagus, spring cresses, dressed lettuce, grape jelly; custard pie, cake. 
Supper — Plain bread, canned salmon, cold buns, jelly, cream sandwiches. 

12. Breakfast — Corn dodgers, fish croquettes, potato balls, boiled eggs. 
Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, canned tomatoes, pickles ; Florentine 
pudding. Supoer — Light rolls, cold beef, tea cake. 

13. Breakfast — Graham gems, fried sweet-breads, oatmeal with cream. 
Dinner — Mutton soup, boiled mutton with caper sauce, whole potatoes, plain 



A YEAR S BILL OF FARE. 



boiled rice, lettuce ; orange short cake. Supper — Toasted gems, cold mut- 
ton, jelly and cake. 

14. BreakfasP—ViennVi rolls, fried pickled tripe, rice croquettes, spring 
radishes. Dinner — Chicken pot-pie, canned Lima beans, stewed tomatoes, 
asparagus ; Spanish cream. Supper — Cold rolls, chicken salad, chocolate 
tarts. 

15. Breakfast — Batter cakes, veal cutlets, ringed potatoes. Dinner — 
Ragout of beef, boiled potatoes in jackets, canned succotash, wilted lettuce; 
chocolate custard, oranges, cake. Supper — Bread, sliced beef, oat porridge. 

16. Breakfast — Waffies, broiled mutton, fricassed potatoes. Dinner — 
Lobster soup, baked fish stuffed, baked macaroni, potatoes mashed, am- 
bushed asparagus ; molasses pudding. Supper — Graham gems, sardines with 
lemon, toast. 

17. Breakfast — Corn griddle cakes, fish balls, scrambled eggs. Dinner 
— Boiled ham with vegetables, chili sauce ; plain boiled pudding with sauce. 
Supper — Toasted crackers, cold sliced ham, warm ginger bread. 

18. Sunday. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, broiled 
steak. Dinner — Macaroni soup, baked chickens, mashed potatoes, lettuce 
salad ; queen of puddings. Supper — Light biscuit, cold chicken, trifle. 

19. Breakfast — Graham gems, chicken croquettes, potatoes, radishes, 
warmed over mashed potatoes, stewed parsnips. Dinner — Boiled corn beef, 
potatoes, turnips, carrots ; canned peaches and cream, jelly cake. Supper — 
Toasted gems, cold corned beef shaved, cream fritters. 

20. Breakfast — Rolls, stewed kidneys. Chili sauce, fricassed potatoes, 
fried parsnips. Dinner — Split pea soup, meat pie, tomato sauce, mashed 
potatoes, lobster croquettes, spring cresses ; cottage pudding, tapioca jelly, 
oranges. /Supper— Cold rolls, bologna sausage, tea rusk and stewed fruit. 

21. Breakfast — Muffins, breaded veal cutlets, curried eggs, potato cakes. 
Dinner — Roast beef, canned succotash, plain boiled rice with tomatoes, 
dressed lettuce ; peach rolls with sauce. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold beef 
sliced, hot bread and milk, 

22. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled ham, boiled eggs. Dinner — Mutton 
soup, mutton garnished with l)eets and cresses, stewed parsnips pudding of 
canned corn, asparagus on toast, onions, cheese crusts ; orange float, jelly 
cake. Supper — Soda biscuit, cold mutton, currant jelly, fruit charlotte. 

23. Breakfast — Corn cakes, pates of cold mutton hot with gravy, fried 
raw potatoes. Dinner — Fricassee of canned halibut or fresh fish baked, 
mashed potatoes, turnips sliced; bread pudding, oranges, cake. Supper — 
Plain bread, cold beef, steamed crackers. 

24. Breakfast — Graham bread, croquettes of fish, potato rissoles. Din- 
ner — Ham boiled, potatoes, turnips, onion salad; rhubarb pie, cake. Supper 
— Toasted Graham bread, cold ham, cream cakes. 

25. Sunday. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, broiled beefsteak, omelet. 
Dinner — Barley soup, baked lamb with mint sauce, stewed parsnips, potatoes, 
asparagus with eggs, pates of sweet-breads, lettuce mayonnaise; perfection 
cream puddingy strawberries. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced lamb, cake, jelly. 

26. Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, lamb croquettes hot with 
gravy. Dinner — Brown stew, baked potatoes, cresses, Lima beans, stewed 
parsnips, onron salad ; rice snow-balls with custard sauce, plain cake. Sup- 
per — Buttered crackers toasted, cold pressed meat lemon fritters with sugar. 

27. Breakfast — Hot biscuit with honey, mutton chops broiled, fried raw 
potatoes. Dinner — Economical soup ; tapioca pudding. Supper — Cold bis- 
cuit, sliced cold beef, canned fruit with cream and cake. 

28. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled ham, scrambled eggs, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onion salad; 
cream pie. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold beef sliced, tea buns, fruit. 



A year's bill of fare. 891 

— ^ — ■ , _ 

29. Breakfast — Vienna rolls, fried fish, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast 
loin of veal with potatoes, lettuce, fried asparagus; orange pudding, cake. 
Supper — Cold roll, sliced veal, sweet wafers. 

30. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried liver, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — 
Chicken pot-pie, spinnch ; Estelle pudding with sauce. Supper — Plain bread, 
cold pressed meat or bologna ; cream cakes warm. 

Bill of Fare for May. 

1. Breakfast— Buttered toast, served with fricasse of cold boiled or can- 
ned fish, boiled eggs. Dinner — Bacon boiled with spring greens, potatoes, 
beets, parsnips; plain boiled rice with cream sauce, jelly cake. Supper — 
Steamed crackers, sliced beef, rice fritters with sugar. 

2. Sunday. Breakfast. — Batter cakes, veal cutlets, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner. — Cold bacon garnished with boiled eggs and beet slices, roast chicken, 
mashed potatoes, asparagus on toast, dressed lettuce and young onions; 
strawberry charlotte, mixed cake. Supper — Cold rolls, cold chicken, jam. 

3. Breakfast — Light bread, potato cakes, broiled beefsteak. Dinner — 
Roast of mutton with potatoes, canned tomatoes, rliubarb sauce, baked cus- 
tards, fruit cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, sliced mutton, currant jolly, sweet 
buns. 

4. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried pickled tripe, breakfast potatoes. Din- 
ner — Boiled beef with soup, whole potatoes, asparagus with eggs ; cocoanut 
pudding, jelly. Supper — Plain bread, cold beef, toasted buns with strawberry 
jam or canned fruit. 

5. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled ham, omelet. Dinner — Boiled tongue 
with Chili sauce, fricasseed potatoes, cresses, boiled asparagus ; ice cream, 
sponge cake. Supper — Tea biscuit, shaved tongue, sago jelly, lady cake. 

6. Breakfast — Graham bread, fried mutton chops, fried raw potatoes. 
Dinner. — Roast of veal with potatoes, stewed onions, pickled beets; cake 
orange float. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, sliced veal, tea rusks, lemon 

jelly: 

7. Breakjast—^luffins, broiled beefsteak, poached eggs, fried grated 
potatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish (if large, or fried small fish), boiled 
potatoes in jackets, curried eggs, lettuce salad, custard pie. Supper — Toasted 
muffins, cold rusk Avith strawberries or marmalade. 

8. Breakfast — Bread puff's with maple syrup, fricasseed potatoes, cro- 
quettes of fish. Dinner — Boiled leg of mutton, ambushed asparagus, boiled 
macaroni, potato a la pancake ; bread i:)udding. Supper — Cold rolls, cold 
mutton sliced, plain boiled rice with cream and sugar. 

9. Sunday Breakfast — Eice waffles, mutton croquettcG, fried raw po- 
tatoes, buttered eggs. Dinner — Roast beef, clam pie, new potatoes, tomatoes, 
dressed lettuce, young beets, Saratoga shortcake, snow custard, coffee and 
macaroons. Supper — Light rolls, cold beef, cake and jelly, or strawberries. 

10. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, warmed potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast of beef with potatoes, asparagus, cake, oranges. Supper — 
Plain bread, chipped beef, short cake, marmalade. 

11. Breakfast — Cracked wheat with cream, broiled beefsteak, plain bread, 
cottage cheese. Dinner — Asparagus soup, meat pie. new potatoes, pickled 
beets ; rhubarb pie, jelly cake. Supper — Tea biscuit, Yankee dried beef, 
sponge cake and fruit. 

12. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, cream codfish, fried raw potatoes, scrambled 
eggs Dinner — Pieplant soup, pigeon pie, grape jelly, new potatoes, tomato 
salad; delicious lemon pudding, cal e. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold 
pressed meat, devilled eggs, vanities with jelly. 



892 A year's bill of farb. 

. ■ , 

13. Breakfast — AVarm biscuit with maple syrup, veal cutlets, Saratoga 
potatoes. Dinner — Beef a la mode, whole potatoes, turnips, beets, lettuce ; 
rice pudding with cream sauce, oranges. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced beef, 
tea cakes, blanc-mange. 

1-1. Breakfast — Corn muflins, broiled fish, tomato sauce, broiled pota- 
toes. Dinner — Fresh fish, or canned haUbut, cod or salmon, Swedish po- 
tatoes, turnips, spinach with eggs ; cream pie, silver cake. Supper — Toasted 
m.uffins, omelet with asparagus, bread and milk. 

15. Breakfast — Light biscuit, broiled steak, potatoes. Dinner — Brown 
stew, whole potatoes, beets ; Indian pudding with sauce, lady fingers. Sup- 
pet — Cold biscuit, chipped beef, cream cakes and jelly. 

16. Sunday. Breakfast — Breakfast toast, fried veal cutlets, sliced toma- 
toes. Dinner — Roast of lamb with mint sauce, currant jelly, new potatoes, 
green pease, gelinola salad with fruit; strawberry short cake. Supper — 
Light rolls, cold lamb, jelly and cake. 

17. Breakfast — Plain bread, minced lamb with poached eggs on toast. 
Dinner — Meat pie, new potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; cherry pie, lady fingers. 
Supper — Pop-overs, sardine jelly, baked rhubarb. 

18. Breakfast — Plain bread, broiled bacon, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Chicken soup, smothered chickens, creamed potatoes, tomatoes, half-hour 
pudding, oranges. Supper — Waffles, cold pressed meat, jelly cake. 

19. Breakfast — Muffins, codfish, boiled eggs. Dinner — Veal stew, pota- 
toes mashed or baked, spinach, rhubarb sauce; plain batter pudding with 
sauce, cake and fruit. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold veal, bachelor's but- 
tons. 

20. Breakfast — French rolls, warmed over veal stew, tomato sauce. 
Dinner — Boiled ham with potatoes, asparagus, pease, tomato salad ; rhubarb 
pie. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced ham, pan cakes with jelly. 

21 . Breakfast — Corn meal gems, ham balls, breakfast potatoes. Dinner 
— Baked or boiled fish, whole boiled potatoes, French eggs, lettuce and cress 
salad ; green currant pie. jelly cake. Supper — Toasted gems, canned salmon, 
asparagus on toast, oatmeal pudding with cream and sugar. 

22. Breakfast — Buttered toast, larded sweet-breads, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Larded liver, baked potatoes, turnips, lettuce ; potato pie, light cake. 
Sujyper — Light biscuit, beeisteak toast, marinated potatoes. 

23. Sunday. Breakfast — Corn dodgers, stewed kidneys, omelet. Din- 
■figf — Strawberry soup, baked chicken, new potatoes, diced turnips, baked 
rhubarb, green pease, lettuce ; Charlotte russe, pine-ap])le ambrosia, cake. 
Supper — Cold biscuit, sliced chicken, preserved fruit and cake. 

24. Breakfast — Graham gems, chicken croquettes, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Roast beef, boiled onions, lettuce, mashed potatoes ; jelly with whipped 
cream. Supper — Toasted gems, cold beef, rusk and jelly. 

25. Breakfast — AVarm biscuit, broiled bacon, boiled eggs. Dinner — Boil- 
ed mutton with soup, whole potatoes, onions, green pease, lettuce, sweet 
pickles ; cherry pie, cream puffs. Supper — Cold rolls, cold sliced mutton, 
toasted rusk with fruit. 

26. Breakfast — Corn muffins, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Boiled bacon with gi-eens and potatoes, asparagus rolls, radishes, lettuce 
salad ; bread pudding, oranged strawberries. Supper — Toasted muflins, cold 
tongue, raisin tarts. , . , 

27. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled ham, omelet with parsley. Din- 

ngr Chicken isie, fricassed potatoes, asparagus, pease, lettuce; poor man's 

pudding. Supper — Hot biscuit, eottage cheese, stewed fruit and cake. 

28. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — Fresh 
fish boiled, baked or fried new potatoes, tomatoes, beets, lettuce ; cottag« 
pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Oatmeal and cream, stewed cherri«g. 



A year's bill of fare. 893 

29. Breakfast — Bread puffs with maple syrup, canned salmon on toast, 
tomato sauce. Dinner — Ham boiled with greens, young turnips ; rhubarb 
pie, tapioca jelly. Supper — Plain bread, shaved ham, hot buns and fruit. 

30. Sunday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled beefsteak, tomato omelet. 
Dinner— Roast lamb with mint sauce, clam stew, new potatoes, young turnips, 
green pease, asparagus salad ; ice cream and strawberries, centennial drops, 
cake. Supper — Cold rolls, shaved ham, toasted buns and jelly. 

31. Breakfast — Cream toast, croquettes of cold meat, fried potatoes. 
Dinner— Meat pie, whole potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; steamed Indian pud- 
ding with sauce, soft ginger-bread. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold lamb, cake 
and fruit. 

Bill of Fare for June. 

1 Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, mutton chops. Dinner — 
Eoast beef, whole potatoes, ambushed asparagus, tomato salad ; strawberries 
and cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold beef sliced, baked pie-plant, 
cake. 

2. Breakfast — French rolls, croquettes of beef, radishes. Dinner — Beef 
boiled with soup, (beef served with drawn butter,) new potatoes, spinach 
with egg dressing, boiled onions, green currant i^ie, sponge cake. Supper — 
Plain bread, sliced cold beef, sweet pickles. 

3. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled ham, tomato omelet. Dimmer — Steam- 
ed chicken, green pease, mashed potatoes, dressed lettuce; strawberries 
served with sugar and cream. Supper — Warm biscuit, chipped dried beef, 
young onions, lemon jelly. 

4. Breakfast — Graham bread, fried fish, ducliesse potatoes. Dinner — 
Baked or boiled fresh fish or lobster fricassee, new potatoes, asparagus on 
toast ; baked custard, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, frizzled ham, 
raspberry short-cake with cream. 

5. Breakfast — AVaffles, broiled mutton or lamb chops, potatoes, stewed 
tomatoes. Dinner — Broiled beefsteak, whole boiled potatoes, beets, greens, 
onion salad ; berries and cake. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold pressed meat, 
tapioca cream. 

6. Sunday. Breakfast — Twist rolls, fried chicken, potatoes, omelet. 
Dinner — Clam soup, baked lamb with potatoes, green pease, sliced tomatoes, 
asparagus, lettuce salad ; strawberry short-cake with whipped cream. Sup- 
per — Cold biscuit, sliced lamb, fruit and light cake. 

7. Breakfast — Oranges, corn batter cakes, broiled liver, scrambled eggs. 
Dinner — Roast beef, mashed potatoes, beets, cress salad ; plain boiled rice 
with cream. Supper — Plain bread, bologna sausage, rusk with berries. 

8. Breakfast — Rice cakes, lamb chops, boiled eggs. Dinner — Boiled 
beef's tongue (fresh) served with Chid sauce, baked potatoes, young beets, 
lettuce dressed ; raspberry cream, cake. Supper — Sliced beef's tongue, toast- 
ed rusk, berries. 

9. Breakfast — Muffins, beefsteak, potato balls. Dinner — Soup of stock 
boiled yesterday with tongue, chicken pie, mashed potatoes and turnips, 
spinach, lettuce ; cream fritters with sauce. Supper — Toasted muffins, cream 
codfish, fruit. 

10. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veal cutlets, radishes. Dinner — Ragout of 
lamb, mashed potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; lemon pudding, cake. Supper — ' 
Toasted Sally Lunn, cold sliced lamb, sliced tomatoes. 

IL Breakfast — Vienna rolls, breakfast stew, potatoes or tomatoes. Din- 
ner — Fresh fish fried or baked, molded potatoes, asparagus, beet salad ; rice 
pudding with sauce and cake, oranges. Supper — Cold rolls, dried beef chip- 
ped, custard cake with fruit or berries. 



894 A year's bill of fare. 

12. Breakfast — Graham gems, croquettes of fish or breaded veal cutlets, 
escaloped eggs. Dinner — Ham boiled with greens, potatoes, beets, young 
onions ; economical pudding, Italian rolls. Steppe) — Toasted gems, cold" ham. 
oatmeal with cream, cake and jelly. 

13. Sunday. Breakfast — Light rolls, broiled beefsteak, sliced tomatoes, 
omelets. Dinner — Rdspberry soup, baked chicken, mashed potatoes, green 
pease, pickled beets ; strawberry bavarian cream. Supper — Cold rolls, cold 
chicken, toast with jelly, fruit. 

14. Breakfast — WafHes, croquettes of cold chicken, tomatoes. Dinner — 
Veal stuffed and baked, asparagus, tomatoes, cresses ; strawberries and 
cream. Supper — Biscuit, sliced veal, tomato salad, fruit, light cakes. 

15. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, pates of cold veal, potatoes fried. Din- 
ner — Boiled corned beef, potatoes, turnips, wilted lettuce ; cocoanut pudding, 
cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold corned beef, corn meal mush or hasty 
pudding with cream. 

16. Breakfast — Fried mush, fried poattoes, broiled bacon. Dinner — As- 
paragus soup, roast chicken, whole potatoes, spinach with eggs, beets and 
lettuce; cherry pie. Sapper — Cold rolls, bologna sausage, raspberries, light 
cakes. 

17. Breakfast — Corn muffins, pickled tripe, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Roast mutton, potatoes, green pease, lettuce ; orange souffle, cake. Supper — 
Toasted muffins, sliced mutton, sweet buns, fruit. 

' 18. Breakfast — Breakfast wheat with cream, plain bread, broiled fish. 
Dinner — Baked fish (fresh), baked potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers; boiled 
custard and cake. Supper— Cold pressed meat, short-cake with fruit. 

19. i)/-ai-/'a.5/— Buttered toast, poached eggs, broiled mutton chop. Din- 
ner — Boiled shoulder of bacon with greens, potatoes, beets, herring salad; 
bread pudding. Supper — Light biscuits, Yankee dried beef, strawberries. 

20. Sunday. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled beefsteak, boiled eggs, 
stewed tomatoes. Dinner — Fruit soup, lamb cutlets broiled and served with 
green pease, summer squash, young onions, pickled beets; oranged straw- 
berries, cakes. Supper — Cold biscuits, canned salmon, fruik 

21. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried clams, potatoes or hominy croquettes. 
Dinner — Pea soup, roast beef with potatoes, string beans, young onions; 
raspberry blanc-mange, oranges or bananas and cake. Supper — Hot tea 
buns, cold beef sliced, cherries, lemon cakes. 

22. Breakfast — Waffles, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — Meat 
pie, green pease, potatoes, lettuce; raspberry float. Supper — Cold buns, 
chipped dried beef , raspberry cream, cakes. 

23. Breakfast — French rolls, broiled liver, tomatoes. Dinner — Stewed 
lamb with mint sauce, potatoes, squash, beets; strawberry short-cake with 
whipped cream. Supper — Cold sliced lamb, sweet muffins with stewed 
cherries. 

24. Breakfast — Graham bread, beefsteak smothered wath onions, toma- 
toes. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, string beans ; cherry dump- 
ings with sauce, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold beef, currants. 

25. Breakfast — Corn pone, broiled ham, omelet, hominy fritters. Din- 
ner — Boiled salmon or some other variety of fresh fish either fried, baked or 
fricasseed; mashed potatoes, Lima beans, squash, cucumbers; oranges. 
Supper — Cold pone sliced and toasted in the oven, cold tongue, sponge cake 
with fruit. 

26. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, larded veal cutlets, scalloped eggs. Dinner 
— Boiled ham with greens, potatoes, beet greens; raspberries and cream, 
cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, sliced ham, floating island. 

27. Sunday. 3reakfaxt — French pancakes, veal and ham croquettes, 
poached eggs on toast. Dinner — Fried chicken, cold ham, mashed potatoes, 



A year's bill of fare. 895 

Lima beans, cucumbers ; snow custard, cherries, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, 
sliced chicken, stewed cherries and cake. 

28. Breakfast — Plain bread, ham balls, potato cakes. Dinner — Baked 
mutton, potatoes, beets, squash, lettuce; quick puff ptidding. Supper — But- 
tered toast, cold mutton, fritters with stigar. 

29. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled bacon, boiled eggs. Dinner — Boiled 
corned beef, turnips, potatoes, yoting beets; bananas or oranges. Supper — 
Steamed oatmeal, crackers, cold corned beef, stewed berries, cake. 

30. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled steak, tomatoes. Dinner — Fried chicken 
with cream gravy, potatoes, squash, lettuce ; gooseberry tarts, corn starch 
blanc-mange. Supper — Light biscuit, bread and milk, fruit salad. 

Bill of Fare For July. 

1. Breakfast — Warm biscttit, hominy croquettes, broiled ham, sliced to- 
matoes. Dinner — Beef's tongue with green pease, Saratoga potatoes, sliced 
cucumbers ; raspberry float, cake. Supper — Sliced tongue, hot buns, rasp- 
berries and cream. 

2. Breakfast — Corn bread, fried chicken, tomato omelet. Dinner — 
Boiled fish with egg sauce, mashed potatoes, squash; cherrj'.dumplings with 
sauce, lady fingers. Supper — Cold bacon broiled and served on toast, sliced 
tomatoes, raspberry short-cake. 

3. Breakfast — Breakfast pufTs, stewed kidneys, radishes, j'oung onions. 
Dinyier — Boiled ham with young cabbages, potatoes, cucumbers ; bread cus- 
tard pudding, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced ham, fried tomatoes, rusk 
with stewed ctirrants. 

4. Sunday. Breakfast — Fresh berries with cream and sugar, broiled 
Spanish mackerel, buttered toast, omelet souffle, flannel cakes with syrup. 
Dinner — Pea soup, roast tenderloin of beef, new potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce 
a la Mayonnaise , cucumber sliced, pine-apple pudding, ice-cream, cake. Sup- 
per — Small light biscuit, sliced ham, almond flowers, cake and berries. 

5. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled mutton chops, fried potatoes, cot- 
tage cheese. Dinner — Ragout of beef, boiled potatoes, young onions, toma- 
toes ; rice pudding, oranges, cake. Hupper — Toasted gems, ham salad, stewed 
berries, sweet buns. 

G. Breakfast— Hot muffins, broiled beefsteak, boiled eggs. Dinner — 
Meat pie, boiled potatoes, boiled cauliflower with sauce ; cherry soufiie, cake. 
Hupper — Toasted muffins, bologna sausage sliced, raspberries. 

7. Breakfast — Batter cake, breakfast bacon, cracked wheat with cream. 
Dinner — Stufl'ed fillet of veal garnished with green pease mashed potatoes, 
.summer squash, beet salad, bhtckberries, cream and cake. Supper — Cold 
rolls, sliced veal, short-cake with berries or jam. 

8. Breakfast — Cream toast, poached eggs, broiled ham. Dinner — Rice, 
soup, boiled corned beef, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumber salad; ripe currant 
pie, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold corned beef^ steamed crackers, stewed 
fruit 

9. Breakfast — Hash, fried potatoes, stewed tomatoes with toast. Dinner 
— Fresh fish either baked, boiled or fried, green beans stewed with pork, 
boiled potatoes, cucumber salad; cherry pie, cake. /Supper— Warm biscuit, 
ham omelet, light cakes and jelly or berries. 

10. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled beefsteak, scrambled eggs. Dinner — 
Roast beef with potatoes, beets, cucumbers, dressed lettuce; cup custards, 
oranges, cake. Supper — Plain bread, oatmeal with cream, sliced banana or 
pine-apple. 

11. Sunday. Breakfast— Graham bread, broiled mtitton chops, potato 
cakes. Dinner — Baked chicken, mashed potatoes, cucumbers, dressed let- 



896 A year's bill of fare. 



tuce, vanilla ice cream, blackberries, cake. Supper — Toast of Graham bread, 
sliced cliickeu cold, cream cakes and jelly. 

12. Brcakjast — Batter cakes, broiled ham, tomato omelet, radishes. 
Dinner — Baked lamb, green pease, baked potatoes, squash; rice custard, ber- 
ries with cream. Supper — Biscuit, cold lamb sliced, ripe currants with cream. 

13. Breakfast — liicemuffins, hash, tomatoes. Dinver — Economical soup ; 
blackberry ])ndding with sauce, cake. Supper — Buttered toast, cold sliced 
meat, blackberries with cream. 

14. Breakfast — French rolls, vegetable hash, broiled beefsteak, cottage 
cheese. Dinner — Mock (or real) turtle soup, baked heart, baked potatoes, 
stewed beans ; chocolate pudding, cocoanutcake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced 
heart, Boston cream pufis, stewed berries. 

15. Breakfast — Cream toast, fried liver, fricasseed potatoes. Dinner — 
Clam pie, mashed potatoes, string beans, lettuce; blackberry pie, cake. 
Supper — Plain bread, dried beef frizzled, rice batter cakes with sugar. 

16. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled mutton chops, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Fish fresh or canned, whole potatoes, pease, squash, lettuce ;namburgcream. 
Supper — Toasted muffins, cold pressed meat, corn meal mush with cream. 

17. Breakfast — Plain bread, veal sweet-breads, fried mush, boiled eggs. 
Dinner — Boiled ham with ])otatoes, cabbage, string beans; warm ginger- 
bread, lemonade. Supper — Dry toast, cold ham shaved, rusk, blackberries 
and cream. 

18. Sunday. Breakfast — Vienna rolls, fried chicken with cream gravy, 
fried tomatoes, cottage cheese. Dinner — Roastof beef with potatoes, stewed 
tomatoes, cucumbers, wilted lettuce; Charlotte russe, cake. Supper — Coki 
rolls, sliced beef, blackberries. 

19. Breakfast — Butterd toast with poached eggs, cold roast beef sliced 
and warmed up with gravy, potatoes fried. Dinner — Veal stuffed and baked 
with ])otatoes, pease; tapioca pudding. Supper — Light biscuit, cold veal, 
cracked wheat and cream. 

20. Breakfast — Slai)-jacks, veal cutlets, breakfast hominy. Dinner — Mut- 
ton soup, boiled mutton dressed with drawn Initter, whole potatoes, toma- 
toes, beet salad ; whortleberry pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Soda bis- 
cuit, cold mutton, jelly and cake. 

21. Breakfast — Graham gems, croquettes of mutton, new potatoes fried 
whole. Dinner — Boiled tongue, mashed potatoes, tomatoes stewed ; black- 
berries and cream. Supper — Pop-overs, cold tongue, oatmeal and cream. 

22. Breakfast — Fruit, Vienna rolls, l)eefsteak, potato cake. Dinner — 
Chicken croquettes, potatoes, tomatoes, onion sauce; tapioca jelly, oranges. 
Supper — Cold rolls, sliced chicken, stewed V)erries, short cake. 

28. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled fish, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — 
Fresh fish chowder or canned fish in fricassee, potatoes whole, pease, baked 
egg ])lant, boiled rice ; gooseberry foo.l, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, 
cofd pressed meat, rice custard, sponge cake. 

24. Breakfast — Rice waffles, veal cutlets breaded, scrambled eggs. Diti- 
ner — Ham or shoulder boiled with cabbage and other vegetables, greens ; 
baked custard, cake. Supper — Biscuits, cold ham, bread and milk iced, black- 
berries with cream. 

25. Sunday. Breakfast— Yrult, breakfast rolls, frizzled ham and eggs, 
tomato omelet, cottage cheese. Dinner — Okra soup, boiled chicken, sweet 
pickles, escalopcd cauliflower, stewed corn, lettuce; ambrosia of oranges 
and cocoanut, almond cake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced chicken, huckle- 
berries an<l cream. 

26. Breakfast. — Rolls, fried pickled tripe, tomato omelet. Dinner — Es- 
caloped chicken, whole potatoes, string beans, summer squash, onions, rad- 
ishes ; berries with cream, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold pressed meat, 
sliced beef, cake and lemonade. 



A year's bill op fare. 897 

27. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled mutton or lamb chops, fried potatoes, 
tomatoes. Dinner — Roast beef, cauliflower boiled with sauce, Lima beans, 
raw tomatoes ; huckleberry roll with sauce, cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, 
sliced beef, cake and lemonade. 

28. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled beefsteak, puff omelet, stewed to- 
matoes. Dinner — Boiled corned beef with turnips, potatoes, beans, cabbajje ; 
sliced bread pudding, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold corned beef, egg rolls. 

29. Breakfast — Waffles, fried chicken, fricasscd potatoes. Dinner — 
Roast chicken, potatoes, squash, baked tomatoes; gooseberry tarts, cake. 
Supper — Plain bread, cold chicken, jelly and cake. 

30. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled ham with poached eggs. Dinner — 
Fish, fresh or canned, potatoes mashed, onions stewed with cream, Lima 
beans, lettuce ; huckleberry pie, cream jiuffs. Supper — Graham toast, sar- 
dines, vanities with jelly. 

31. Breakfast — Buttered toast, potato cakes, omelet with tomatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled ham or shoulder with cabbage, potatoes and other vegetables, 
cucumber salad ; custard pie. Supper — Light biscuit, shaved liam, almond 
custard and cake. 

Bill of Fare for August. 

1. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, broiled mackerel, potatoes 
whole, buttered toast, nanuel cakes with syrup. Dinner — Chicken soup, 
roast tenderloin of beef, new potatoes, boiled corn in the ear ; blackberry 
pie. Gopher orange ice, cake, watermelon. Supper — Light biscuit, sliced cold 
beef, chicken sandwiches, cake and berries. 

2. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled mutton chops, fried potatoes, sliced 
cucumbers. Dinner — Roast beef, boiled potatoes, macaroni witli cheese, 
young beets, tomatoes ; rice pudding, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, dried 
beef frizzled, stewed berries, sweet buns. 

3. Breakfast — Hot muffins, broiled beefsteak, stuffed eggs. Dinner — 
Meat pie, boiled potatoes, green corn pudding, dressed lettuce ; watermelon. 
Supper — Toasted muffins, chipped dried beef, cold buns, coffee jelly and 
blackberries. 

4. Breakfast — Light rolls, mutton chops breaded, crushed oatmeal with 
cream. Diviner — Stuffed fillet of veal, mashed i:)otatoes, summer squash, 
boiled beets sliced ; lemon meringue pie, cake. Supper — Cold rolls sliced 
veal, warm biscuit and honey. 

5. Breakfast — Fried chicken, whole boiled potatoes, onions and radish- 
es. Dinner — Vegetable soup, boiled corned beef, potatoes, corn, wilted let- 
tuce ; chess pie, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold corned beef, stewed fruit. 

6. Breakfast — Breakfast stew, fried potatoes, fried cabbage. Dinner — 
Gumbo soup, fresh fish baked or boiled, succotash, boiled potatoes ; berries. 
Supper — Warm biscuit, breaded herring, potato slaw and lemon jelly. 

7. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled beefsteak, scrambled eggs. Dinner — 
Boiled ham with potatoes, turnips and cabbage ; apple sauce, jelly cake. Sup- 
per — Plain bread, sliced ham, cracked wheat. 

8. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, broiled veal cutlets, vegetable 
hash, corn fritters. Dinner — Chicken pudding, cold sliced ham, baked mash- 
ed potatoes, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers ; watermelon. Supper — Light bis- 
cuit, cold sliced ham, cream cakes and jell;\ 

9. Breakfast — Batter cakes, baked codfish, tomato omelet. Dinner—' 
Baked lamb, creamed cabbage, stewed tomatoes ; cream pudding. Supper — 
Biscuit, cold lamb sliced, preserve puffs. 

16. Breakfast — Plain bread, hash, stewed tomatoes. Dinner — Beef a la 
mode, boiled potatoes, green corn pudding, sliced tomatoes; tapioca cream. 
Mupper — Buttered toast, cold pressed meat, chocolate custard. 



898 year's bill op fare. 

11. Breakfast. — French rolls, broiled beefsteak, cottage cheese. Dinner— 
Corn soup with chicken, celery, mashed potatoes, stewed beans, sliced en 
cumbers and onions; watermelon. Supper — Cold rolls, chicken salad, appio 
sauce, bonny clabber. 

12. Breakfast — Cream toast, fried liver, potato cakes, stewed tomatoes. 
Dinner — Roastleg of mutton with potatoes, green corn, tomatoes ; muskmelon. 
Supper — Plain bread, frizzled dried beef, boiled rice with cream. 

13. Breakfast — Rice cakes, mutton stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — Meat 
pie, stewed corn, boiled cauliflower ; grapes, plain cake. Supper — Toast, cold 
pressed meat, Graham mush with cream. 

14. Breakfast — Plain bread, broiled bacon, Graham mush fried, boiled 
eggs. Dinner — Boiled ham with potatoes, cabbage, string beans ; lemon pie, 
cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cf)ld ham shaved, apple sauce. 

15. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melons, fried chicken with cream 
gravy, fried tomatoes, cottage cheese, corn fritters. Dinner — Roast loin of 
veal, mashed potatoes, creamed cabbage, egg terrace, tomatoes ; watermelon. 
Supper — Cold rolls, sliced veal. 

16. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, cold roast veal sliced 
and warmed up with gravy, potatoes fried. Dinner — Roast beef with pota- 
toes, pease, tomatoes, corn pudding, lettuce ; watermelon. Supper — Light 
biscuit, cold sliced beef, apple snow. 

17. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, corn oysters, broiled bacon. Dinner — 
Broiled prairie chicken with currant jelly, browned potatoes, sliced tomatoes ; 
cake, orange float. Supper — Spoon biscuit, cold beef, jelly and cake. 

18. Breakfast — Corn gems, croquettes of mutton, fried apples, fried pota- 
toes. Dinner — Boiled tongue, whole boiled potatoes, tomatoes stewed ;frieil 
.jananas. Supper — Toasted bread, cold tongue, oatmeal with cream. 

19. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, fried sweet-breads, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Brown stew, baked potatoes, stewed corn, escaloped tomatoes; water- 
melon: Supper — Sliced cold beef, biscuit, floating island. 

20. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, Sally Lunn, broiled beefsteak, potatoes. 
Dinner — Fresh fish chowder, potatoes whole, pease, boiled onions, tomato 
salad ; fanchonettes, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold pressed meat, 
egg gems, sponge cake and jelly with whipped cream. 

21. Breakfast — Bread pufts, veal cutlets breaded, scrambled eggs. Din- 
ner. — Ham or shoulder boiled with cabliage and other vegetables, beets sliced, 
iDaked custard. Supper — Warm biscuit, cold ham, bread and milk iced. 

22. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melons, breakfast rolls, cold boiled 
ham, shaved, tomato omelet, corn oysters. Dinner — Okra soup, fried gumbo, 
boiled chicken, sweet pickles, cabinet pudding; ice-cream cake. Supper — 
Cold rolls, sliced chicken, rice with sugar and cream. 

23. Breakfast — Rice cakes, broiled breakfast bacon, fried cabbage. Din- 
ner — Escaloped chicken, whole potatoes, string beans, boiled corn in the 
ear ; watermelon, plain cake. Supper— Hoi biscuit, cold pressed meat, fried 
apples. 

24. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled mutton or lamb chops, rice croquettes 
witli gravy. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, cauliflower with sauce, Lima 
beans, raw tomatoes ; baked apples with cream. Supper — Toasted muffins, 
sliced beef, lemon jelly. 

25. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled steak, fricassed potatoes . Dinner — 
Broiled corned beef with turnips, potatoes, stewed beans ; bread pudding 
with custard, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold corned beef, apple fritters 
with sugar. 

26. Breakfast — AVaffles, fried chicken with corn dodgers, stewed toma- 
toes. Dinner — Broiled prairie chicken with currant jelly, mashed potatoes, 
creamed cabbage ; mock strawberries, cake. S.r.vper — f lain bread, Gelinolft 
salad with sardines, jelly and cake. 



A year's bill of fare. 899 



27. Breakfast — Popovers, fried fish, potato rissoles. Dinner — Fish , fresh 
or canned, p;>tatoes boiled in jackets, stewed tomatoes, Lima beans; water- 
melon. Supper — Graham toast, bologna sausage, vanities with jelly.' 

28. Breakfast— Bread puffs, fried potatoes, poached eggs. 'Dinner— 
Boiled ham or shoulder with vegetables, cucumber salad ; carrot pudding, 
warm gingerbread and lemonade. Supper—U^yhi biscuit, shaved ham, blanc- 
mange, with jelly and cake. 

29. Sunday. Breakfast— ^wimeg melon, French pancakes, broiled ham, 
sliced tomatoes. Dinner— ^o&st prairie chicken, mashed potatoes, boiled 
onions ; currant jelly, peaches and ice-cream. /Supper— Plain bread, sliced 
chicken, watermelon. 

30. Breakfast— Corn bread, broiled mackerel, potato cakes. Dinner— 

Roast beef with potatoes, corn boiled in ear; watermelon, cake. Suprjer 

Toast, cold beef, apple fritters. 

31. Breakfast— Breakfast stew, fricassed potatoes, breakfast rolls. Din- 
ner— BoUed ham with cabbage, potatoes, beets, cucumbers ; custard pie", cake. 
Supper — Cold rolls, sliced ham, rusk, apple sauce. 

Bill of Fare for September. 

1. Breakfast — Milk toast, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner Chick- 
en pie. boiled potatoes, young carrots, green corn; peach short-cake. Sup- 
per — Cold tongue, biscuit, sliced tomatoes, grapes. 

2. Breakfast — Biscuit, broiled bacon, tomatoes. Dinner — Beeiala 77iode, 
potatoes boiled, onions baked, egg plant, cabbage salad; apple pie, mixed 
cakes. Supper — Pop-overs, honey, peaches and cream. 

3. Breakfast— Graham gems,' mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner— Baked 
fish, potatoes, green corn, stewed tomatoes, pickled beets; peach dumplino-s 
wiih sauce, cake. Supper — Oyster stew, crackers, celerv, fruit. ° 

4. Breakfast — Nutmeg melons, corn oysters, steak. 'Dinner — Beef boiled 
with cabbage and potatoes, succotash ; apple roly-poly with custard sauce 
sponge cake. Supper — Sliced beef, peaches and cream. 

5. Sunday. i?/-ea/^'/'as<— Nutmeg melon, vegetable hash, broiled veal cut- 
lets, tomatoes fried. Dinner — Baked chickens, potatoes, green corn pud- 
ding, tomatoes, plum sauce; sliced peaches, ice-cream, cake. Supper 

Cold chicken, sliced tomatoes, baked pears. 

6. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, fried liver, fried tomatoes. Dinner — Roast 
beef, potatoes, green corn, fried egg plant, onion salad ; watermelon. Supper 
Toasted l)iscuit, chicken vanity, fruit. 

7. Breakfast — Buttered toast, hash, green corn oysters. Dinner — Meat 
pe, potatoes, young turnijis, stewed onions, pickled beets ; apple dumplino's 
wth cream sauce, cake. Supper — Canned salmon, biscuit and jam. 

8. Breakfast — Toasted Sally Lunn, chickens broiled, cucumbers. Din- 
ner — Roast mutton, baked sweet potatoes, green corn, apple sauce, slaw • 
bread pudding with sauce, cake. Supper— Toasted bread, sliced mutton,' 
bake<l pears. 

9. Breakfast — Corn muffins, breakfast stew of mutton, tomatoes. Din- 
ner — Veal pot pie, Lima beans, baked egg plant ; peach meringue, lady cake. 
Supper — Pressed chicken, warm biscuit, baked sweet apples. 

10. Breakfast — Batter cakes, veal croquettes, cottage cheese. Dinner 

Boiled or baked fish with potatoes, green corn, tomatoes, slaw ; peaches and 
cream, cake. Supper — Cold tongue, bread and iced milk, 

11. Breakfast — Shortcake, mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — Economi- 
cal soup, pickled beets ; apple meringue, cake. Supper— Soused beef, warm 
rolls, grapes. 

12. Sunday. Breakfast — Rolls, breakfast stew, stewed okra. Dinner 

Broiled prairie chicken, sweet potatoes, green corn, boiled cauliflower, plum 



fOO A year's bill op farb. 

sauce, cabbage salad; tutti frutti, cake. Supper — Sliced veal, biscuit, baked 
pears. 

13. Breakfast — Cream toast, prairie chicken stew, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Roast loin of veal, potatoes, baked tomatoes, onions, cabbage; apple 
snow, cake. Supper — Sliced halibut, dry toast, grapes. 

Breakfast — Light l)iscuit, broiled bacon, tomatoes. Dinner — Chicken 
pie, potatoes, Lima beans, stewed onions, slaw; mixed cake, custard. 
Supper — Sliced veal, biscuit, baked pears. 

15. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled steak, tomatoes. Dinner — Boiled 
bacon with potatoes and beans, green corn pudding, raw tomatoes, baked 
egg plant ; apple pie, cake. Supper — Raw oysters and sliced lemon, biscuit 
and cake. 

16. Breakfast — Hot nuiffins, fried chicken, fried cabbage. Dinner — 
Ragout of beef, potatoes, carrots, corn; compote of pears. Supper — Cold 
sliced beef, sliced tomatoes, egg rolls. 

17. Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, broiled ham. Dinner — 
Devilled crabs, potatoes, stewed corn, onions ; apple meringue pie. Supper — 
Sardines, toast, baked peaches. 

18. Breakfast — Plain bread, green corn fritters, mutton chops. Dinner — 
Chicken fricassee, mashed potatoes, pickled beets ; peach cake with whipped 
cream. Supper — Sliced veal loaf, warm light biscuit, fried bananas. 

19. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, fried oysters, baked potatoes, 
Dinner — Baked'chickens, sweet potatoes, succotash, baked tomatoes ; frozen 
custard, mixed cakes, watermelon. Supper — Sliced chicken, biscuit, apple 
sauce. 

20. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, corn bread, broiled steak, fried sweet 
potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, corn, escaloped cauliflower; 
watermelon, cake. Supper — Cold sliced beef, biscuit, floating island. 

21. Breakfast — Hash, fried cabbage, sliced cucumbers. Dinner — Meat 
pie, yoi;ng turnips, Lima beans ; bread and apple pudding with cream sauce, 
cake. Supper — Sliced dried beef, baked pears, biscuits. 

22. BreakfastHot muffins, fricasseed sweetbread, fried apples, fried raw 
potatoes. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, corn ; peaches with 
cream, cake. Supper — Sliced beef, biscuit, sliced tomatoes with cream. 

23. Breakfast — Plain bread, corn oysters, fried potatoes, mutton chops. 
Dinner — Chicken pudding, baked sweet potatoes, corn, stufted tomatoes; ap- 
ple fritters with sauce, cake. Supper — Cold tongue, biscuit, ambushed trifle. 

24. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled eggs, tomatoes. Dinner — Baked or 
boiled fish, potatoes boiled in jackets, escaloped cauliflower, slaw; baked 
custard, cake. Supper — Mock strawberries, chipped dried beef, pop overs. 

25. Breakfast — Bread puffs, codfish,, fried potatoes. Dinner — Broiled 
steak, mashed potatoes, creamed cabbage ; steamed pudding with sauce, cake. 
Supper — Beefsteak toast, rice with milk, fruit. 

26. Sunday. Breakfast— Nutmeg melon, waffles, broiled chicken, toma- 
toes. Dinnei — Veal pot pie. sweet-potatoes, corn, baked onions ; peach pyr- 
amid, ice cream. Supper — Toasted bread, canned salmon, baked pears. 

27. Breakfast— Br esiktaiii rolls, warmed-over pot pie, fried carrots. Din- 
ner — Roast leg of mutton with potatoes, succotash ; queen of puddings, cake. 
Supper — Sliced mutton, warm biscuit, baked apples. 

28. Breakfast— Hot mufiins, broiled beefsteak, fried raw potatoes. Din- 
ner — Meat pie, onions, chocolate souffle, cake. Supper — Yankee dried beef, 
sliced tomatoes, peaches and cream. 

29. ^reai/asi— Melons, hot rolls, broiled chickens, sliced tomatoes Din- 
ner—Boiled beef with potatoes, turnips, green corn, pickled beets ; apple pie, 
oakes. Supper^Cold corned beef chipped, plain bread sliced thin, rusk, 
stewed pears. 



A year's bill of fare. 901 



so Breakfast— Frnit, broiled bacon, corn bread, fried tomatoes. Din- 
ner— jioast lamb with mint sauce, baked potatoes, green corn pudcUng, 
boiled onions, small pickles ; cocoanut puddnig. chocolate cake, truit. bup- 
per— Cold lamb sliced, cottage cheese, light buns, peaches and cream. 

Bill of Fare for October. 

1 Breakfast— Broiled steak, flannel cakes, fried potatoes. Dinner- 
Baked or boiled tish. potatoes boiled, fried egg plant ; peach pie, cake. /§«;> 
T>e)— Marbled veal, light biscuit, stewed quinces. ..,.-, 

2 Breakfasi—Yeal cutlets, plain onilet, hot biscuit, fried potatoes. 
Dinner— Boiled mutton with soup, potatoes, turnips, carrots, beets and pic- 
kles ; apple dumplings with sauce, cake and fruit. Supper— Cold mutton 
sliced, applesauce, warm b.scuit, cake, jelly. 

3 Sunday. £reoA/as<— Broiled oysters, baked apples, corn batter cakes. 
Dinner— Baked chickens stufled, Lima beans, baked sweet-potatoes, -corn, 
squash, beets, celery; frozen peaches, grapes, cake. Supper— Sardines, 
bread, coffee cake, sliced peaches. -p „.+ 

4 Breakfi si— Biticuit, broiled bacon, fried potatoes. Dinner— ivoast 
beef "with potatoes, turnips, corn, tomatoes ; bread pudding with sauce, cake, 
fruit's Supper— Sliced beef, bread, cuke, stewed peaches. 

5' Breakfast— Hash or beef croquettes, mufhns. fried cabbage. Dinner— 
Meat pie, steamed potatoes, corn, fried eggplant, beets ; custard baked, cake, 
fruit. /S'uw«n— Sliced tongue, bread, chocolate, lemon souffle, rusk. 

G Bre<ikfast—Mntton chops broiled, potatoes fried, buttered toast. Dm- 
ner—Yeal pot pie, sweet-potatoes, Lima beans, tomatoes, pickles; apple 
fritters with sauce, grape tarts, cake. Siqyper-Cold tongue, currant or plum 

iellv, baked quinces. _ . , , , . t^- 

7 £rm/L/.fs<— Corn muffins, fried liver, fried sweet-potatoes. Dinner- 
Chicken fricassee, baked potatoes, turnips, beets ; rice apples, cake, fruit. 
^^tpper—Chicken pates, peaches with cream, bread. ' -^ , , 

8 Breakfast— ^Yames, veal cutlets, potato croquettes. Dinner— Baked 
or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, corn, stewed tomatoes; rice pudding, cocoa- 
nut cake, fruit. Supper— Canned corned beef sliced, buns, tried apples with 

sugar. ^^.g^j^-.^gj_gj.g^(j puffs, croquettes of fish with potatoes, tomatoes. 
jr)^-„^gr_Saturday bean soup, broiled beefsteak, boiled cauliflower, potatoes 
boiled in jackets, pickles ; plain boiled pudding with sauce, cake, fruit. »St(|)- 
pe^_Beefsteak toast, bread, stewed pears. ., ^ ^ , -• ,,1/1 

10 Sunday. ^/-mA/asf— Baked beans with Boston brown bread,- baked 
apples with cream. Dinner— Oyster soup, roast wild duck, grape jelly, cel- 
ery, mashed potatoes and turnips, slaw; lemon ice, compote of pears, cake. 
Supper— Sliced duck, bread and milk. ., , ^^ , .. t .vi 

11 Breakfast— Graham gems, broiled mutton chop, croquettes ot coid 
veo'et'ibles Dinner— Roast beef with potatoes, carrots, plain boiled rice ; 
baked custard, cake, grapes. Supper— Cold beef sliced, bread, rice fritters 

wi ^j^2^^^^reai/rfs«— Hash, fried okra. biscuit. Dinner— Boiled mutton with 
soup,"celery, slaw; sliced pine-apple, cake. Supper— Sdced mutton, cot- 
tage cheese, bread, cake, grape jam. .^ , ^. 1 +„Kl^c. 

13 Breakfast— Corn batter cakes, croquettes of mutton and vegetables. 
Dinner— Beei a la mode, mashed potatoes and turnips, succotash; apples 
grapes, cake. Supper-Ueat salad, bread, cake baked pears. 

14 ^miKa.-^/— Buttered to^ist, croquettes of cold beef and vegetables. 
Dinner— Fried orsmothered chickens, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, pickles ; 
bird's nest pudding, cake. Supper— Canned corned beef sliced, rohs, truit 



902 A year's bill of fare. 

15. Breakfast — Broiled mutton chops, fried potato cakes, muffins. Dtn- 
neY — Baked or boiled fish, boiled whole potatoes, corn, delicate cabbage, 
cheese fondu ; peach meringue, cake. Supper — Bologna Sausage, toasted 
muffins, honey. 

16. Breakfast. — Plain bread, veal cutlets, breakfast wheat. Dinner — 
Boiled beef with vegetables ; cocoanut pudding, cake. Supper — Soused beef, 
light biscuit, fried apples. 

17. S'inday. Breakfast — Vegetable hash, fried oysters, stewed tomatoes. 
Dinner — Broiled pheasant, sweet-potatoes, tomatoes, onion sauce ; peach me- 
ringue pie, plum jelly, cake, fruit. Supper — Cold beef sliced, rusk, baked 
apples. 

18. Breakfast — Biscuit, veal cutlets breaded, potatoes. Dinner — Roast 
beef with potatoes, tomatoes ; plain boiled rice, cake. Supper — Veal loaf, 
baked apples, rice waffles with sugar. 

19. Breakfast — Oyster croquettes, fried cabbage, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Boiled mutton with soup, potatoes, squash ; apple tapioca pudding, 
cake. Supper — Sliced mutton, light buns, fried apples. 

.20. Breakfast — Pates of cold mutton, fried potatoes, plain bread. Din- 
ner — Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, carrots ; plain batter pudding with 
sauce, cake, fruit. Supper — Sliced beef, grape jam, popovers. 

21. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled bacon, fricassed potatoes. Dinner — 
Meat pie, boiled onions, stewed tomatoes, beets ; apple dumplings with sauce, 
cake. Supper — Cold pressed meat, cake, stewed grapes. 

22. Breakfast — Plain bread, fried fish, corn dodgers, tomatoes. Dinner — 
Baked or boiled fish, whole boiled potatoes, tomatoes, creamed cabbage ; mo- 
lasses pudding, cake. Supper — Dried beef frizzled, buns, baked apples. 

23. Breakfast — Graham bread, mutton chops, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Broiled steak, Heidelberg cabbage, turnips, pickles ; cocoanut pudding, choc- 
olate cake, grapes. Supper — Beefsteak toast, mush and milk, light biscuit, 
baked pears. 

24. Sunday. Breakfast — Fried oysters, fried mush, poached eggs. Din- 
ner — Roast wild duck, grape or plum jelly, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, Lima 
l)eans ; sliced peaches, ice cream, cake, grapes. Supper — Sliced duck, sliced 
tomatoes, sponge cake, jelly. 

25. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled ham, tomatoes or potatoes. Dinner — 
Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, plain rice boiled ; sago pudding, cake. 
Supper — Cold sliced beef, bread, butter, apple sauce. 

26. Breakfast — Rice cakes, broiled .steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Meat 
]»ie, Lima beans, stuffed cabbage salad; molasses pudding, cake. Supper — 
Sardines, dry toast, baked apples. 

27. Breakfast — Mutton hash, Sally Lunn, fried onions. Dinner — Bread- 
ed chicken, glazed sweet-potatoes, tomatoes ; baked quinces, cake. Supper — 
Cold pressed meat, rolls, fried apples. 

28. Breakfast — Hot rolls, veal cutlets, fried sweet-potatoes. Dinner — 
Ragout of beef, potatoes, turnips, tomatoes baked ; Italian cream, cake, fruit. 
Supper — Dried beef chii^ped, preserves with cream. 

29. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled bacon, omelette. Dinner — Baked or 
boiled fish, whole potatoes, creamed cal)bage, tom.atoes, beets ; boiled Indian 
pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage, hot toasted rusk, 
tjuince jelly. 

30. Breakfast — Fruit, rolls, broiled mutton chop, potato croquettes. 
Dinner — Broiled steak, Saturday bean soup, potatoes, turnips and carrots, 
])ickles ; warm apple pie, fruit cake. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold tongue, fried 
apples, tea cakes. 

31. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans, Boston brown bread, baked ap- 
ples. Dinner — StCAved oysters, roast veal with sweet potatoes, ap]>le sauce, 



A year's bill of fare. 90J^ 



tomatoes, cabbage salad ; cold apple pie, preserve sandwiches, jelly cake, 
grapes and apples. Supper— Toasted muffins, sliced veal, bananas. 

Bill of Fare for November. 

1. 5rfoi/as^— Biscuit, croquettes of veal, breakfast hominy. Dinner— 
Veal stew, turnips, beets; baked apples with cream, cake. /Supper— Cold 
biscuit, bread and milk, fried apples. 

2. Breakfast— Graham gems, fried liver, fried cabbage, raw potatoes 
fried. Linner— Baked chicken with potatoes and parsnips, mashed turnips, 
celery ; apple dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper— Light biscuit, cold sliced 
chicken, lemon soufile. 

3. Breakfast — Cracked wheat, chicken croquettes, plain bread. Din- 
tier— Boiled leg of mutton with soup, macaroni with cheese, boiled cauli- 
llower, whole boiled potatoes, slaw ; caramel custard, jelly cake. Supper- 
Biscuit, dried beef frizzled, hot short cake, jam. 

4. Breakfast— Corn muffins, broiled liver, hominy. Dinner— Yeal pot 
pie, escaloped oysters, celery, slaw ; tapioca cream, cake. Supper— Toasted 
mulfins, sliced tongue, rusk, stewed pears. 

5. Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, warmed over pot pie. Din- 
ner—Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, tomato sauce, beets ; custard pie, 
cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold pressed meat, bread and milk. 

6. Breakfast— Bread puff's, croquettes of fish, potatoes. Dimi<')-— Larded 
liver, mashed jmtatoes, delicate cabbage ; rice pudding, cake. Supper—Cold 
biscuit, api)le fritters with sugar, tea cakes. 

7. Stmday Breakfast — Cream toast, fried chickens, escaloped eggs. 
Dinner— ^oast wild goose with apple sauce, celery, turnips, sweet-potatoes; 
pumpkin pie, cake. SujyjJer— Tea rolls, cold sliced goose, gelatine blanc- 
mange. 

8. Breakfast — Corn cake, broiled mutton chops, hominv. Dinner. — 
Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, cabbage salad ; lemon pie, farina pudding, 
cake. Supper — Cold roast beef, bread fritters, honey. 

9. -Br^aA/as<— Sally Lunn, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — Stew- 
ed beef, boiled onions, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, jelly ; rice apples, cake. 
Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, sliced cold beef, fried apples, rusk. 

10. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried pork steak, potato cake, tomatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled chicken with soup, plain rice, whole potatoes, slaw; apple 
dumplings, cake. Supper — Cold chicken, rice fritters, tea cakes. 

11. Breakfast— \^'affies, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner— Toad-in- 
the-hole, whole potatoes, turnips, onion sauce; cream pie, cake. Supper- 
Cold rolls, canned salmon, black caps. 

12. Breakfast — Fried mush, oyster fritters, plain bread. Dinner— Baked 
or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, canned pease, tomatoes, grape jellv ; cottage 
pudding with sauce. .S'upper— Rolls, cold mutton sliced, rice fritters, jellv 
and cake. 

13. Breakfast — Hot rolls, croquettes of fish, potato cakes. Dinner— Eco- 
nomical soup ; Esielle puddiag, cake. /S'itpper— Cold rolls, soused beef, stewed 
fruit, tea cakes. 

14. Sunday. Breakfast— Oyster omelet, vegetable hash, baked apples, 
potatoes. Dinner— Stewed oysters, roast wild duck, mashed potatoes, boiled 
onions, celery; Charlotte russe, fruit cake. Supper— Cold duck sliced, light 
biscuit, grapes, sponge cake, currant jelly. 

15. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled pork, potato cakes. Dinner— Veal 
roast, sweet-potatoes, boiled turnips, chicken salad; economical pudding. 
Supper — Oatmeal mush, cold sliced veal, cranberry tarts, cake. 



904 A year's bill of fare. 

16. Breakfast — Graham bread, croquettes of duck, potatoes. Dinner — 
Spiced beef tongue, baked potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; grapes, cake. 
Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongue, baked pears. 

17. BreahfaM — Batter cakes, broiled mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — 
Oyster pie, baked sweet -potatoes, diced turnips, celery; apple pie with 
Av'hipped cream. Supper — Cold rolls, chipped beef, custard cake, marma- 
lade. 

18. Breakfast — Waffles, hash, fried sweet -potatoes. Dinner — Brown 
stew, baked potatoes, plain rice, slaw; pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Cold 
sliced beef, short cake, jam. 

19. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled sausage, hominy. Dinner — 
Turbot, mashed potatoes, turnips, Heidelbreg cabbage; prune whip, cake. 
Supper — Light biscuit, bologna sausage, baked quinces. 

20. Breakfast — Graham gems, veal cutlets, potatoes. Dinner — Chicken 
pot pie ; warm apple pie, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, dried beef, baked 
apples. 

21. Sundo.]!. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled oysters with pork, fried 
raw potatoes. Dinner — Stewed oysters, roast goose, mashed potatoes, boiled 
onions, cranberry sauce, celery ; peach pie, jelly cake. Supper — Cold bis- 
cuit, sliced goose, grapes, cakes. 

22.' Breakfast — Granula mush, broiled steak, potatoes, plain bread. Z>m- 
„f;. — iioast goo-e warmed over, baked potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; grape 
pie, cake. Supper — Buttered toast, cold sliced goose, fried apples, rusk. 

23. Breakfast— Corn gems, fried liver, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — 
Roast pork with sweet-potatoes or parsnips, tomatoes, beets, apple sauce ; 
bread and fruit pudding, cake. Supper— Toasted gems, dried beef, canned 

fruit. , . •■ 1 

24. Breakfast — Patv..s of pork, fried sweet-potatoes, plain bread. Din- 
ner — Beef a la mode, steamed potatoes, Heidelberg cabbage, beets, plain 
rice ; cocoanut pudding, cake. Supper— Cold meat, rice fritters, baked apples. 

25. Thanksgiving Day. Breakfast — Grapes, oatmeal with cream, panned 
oysters with toast, hot rolls, broiled mutton chops, raw potatoes fried, flan- 
nel cakes with maple syrup or honey. Dinwr — Turtle, chicken, or oyster 
soup, baked fish if large and fresh, or stewed if canned (cod, halibut, or sal- 
mon,') mashed potatoes, celery, roast turkey, baked sweet-potatoes, Lima 
beans, stewed tomatoes, onions, beets, cranberry sauce, cabbage salad, 
green pickles ; pumpkin pie, mince pie, plum pudding, ice-cream, rissolletts, 
assorted cakes, oranges and grapes, nuts. Supper— Light biscuit, shaved 
cold turkey, currant jelly, cheese sandwiches, tea cakes, apples and jelly. 

26. BreakfaH-Bnttered toast; turkey hash or croquettes of meat and 
vegetables. Dinner — Escaloped turkey, turnips, beets, potatoes, slaw, corn 
stiTrch pudding, cakes. Supper— Light biscuit, cold turkey, cranberry sauce, 
AVelch rarebit. 

27. Breakfast— Corn bread, broiled spare ribs, potatoes. Dinner— Tur- 
key soup, venison steak, potatoes a la pancake, carrots, boiled beets ; custard 
pie, cake. Supper— Co\d rolls, cold tongue, mush and milk. 

28. Sunday. Breakfast — Graham gems, veal cutlets, omelet. Dinner — 
Oyster roll, cold sliced tongue, turnips mashed, baked sweet-potatoes, cel- 
ery ; pumpkin pie, grapes, cake. Supper— Light biscuit, cold tongue, cur- 
rant jelly, cake. 

29. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried venison, fried ."sweet potatoes. Din- 
ner— iioast mutton, baked potatoes, baked turnips, plum jelly ; grapes, choc- 
olate cake. Supper — Light biscuit, sliced mutton, doughnuts. 

30. Breakfast — Hot rolls, mutton croquettes, potatoes. Dinner — Boiled 
corned beef with turnips and potatoes, pickled beets. Chili »auc« ; peach roll. 
Suijper— Cold rolls, sliced corned beef, baked apples, rusk. 



A year's bill of fare. 905 

Bill of Fare for December. 

1. Breakfast — Coni batter cakes, devilled oystei's, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Chicken pie with oysters, canned Lima beans, cabbage salad ; pumpkin 
pie, cake. Supper — Hot tea rolls, bologna sausage, canned fruit, cake. 

2. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, sausage, croquettes of hominy. Din- 
ner — Veal pot-pie, canned tomatoes, apple sauce ; eggless plum pudding, jelly 
cake. Supper — Biscuits, frizzled beef, tried apples, cake. 

3. Breakfast. — WafHes, broiled steak, omelet. Dinner. — Herring pud- 
ding, mashed potatoes, celery, turnips ; iDaked apple dumpling with hard 
sauce, cake. Supper — Toast, 'pressed meat, cream fritters, apple jelly. 

4. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled spare ribs, fried raw potatoes. 
Dinner — Broiled beefsteak, stuffed cabbage, potato souffle, turnips, celery ; 
molasses pudding, cake. 'Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongue, float- 
ing island. 

5. Sunday. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, beefsteak toast, potato cakes. 
Dinner — Roast haunch of venison, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, apple sauce, 
cheese fingers, celery; Gg pudding with lemon sauce, cake. Supper — Tea 
buns, cold venison, canned fi-uit, lady fingers. 

6. Breakfast — Cream toast, frictitelli, potato cakes. Dinner — Baked veal, 
potatoes, plain boiled rice ; peuch roll, cake. Supper — Cold veal sliced, but- 
tered toast, jelly and cake. 

7. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veal patties, corn dodgers. Dinner — Veal pie, 
carrots, boiled beets ; crumb pie, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, baked 
apples and buns. 

8. Breakfast — Corn muffins, breaded veal cutlets, Saratoga potatoes. 
Dinner — Stewed oysters, roast mutton with potatoes, tomatoes, celery; pine- 
apple ice-cream, jelly cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold mutton sliced, 
apple croutes. 

9. Breakfast — Hot rolls, cracked wheat, breakfast stew. Dinner — Roast 
quails, baked potatoes, Lima beans, celery ; pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — 
Cold rolls, cold tongue sliced, baked apples, tea cakes. 

10. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, smoked sausage broiled, hominy cro- 
quettes. Dinufr — Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, squash, cabbage 
salad ; hot peach pie with cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, stewed 
oysters, canned fruit with cake. 

11. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, rabbit stewed, potato cakes. Dinner — 
Chicken fricassee, baked potatoes, baked turnips ; cottage pudding with sauce, 
cake. Supper — French rolls, Welsh rarebit, jam. 

12. Sunday. Breakfast — iMuffins, broiled spare ribs, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast turkey garnished with fried oysters, mashed potatoes, turnips, 
cranberry sauce, celery ; cream tarts, carrot pudding. Supper — Light bis- 
cuit, cold turke}% jelly and cake. 

13. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried apples, cold turkey broiled. Din- 
ner — Roast turkey warmed over, potatoes whole, canned corn; canned fruit 
and cream. Supper — Cold turkey, mush and milk, buns, jam. 

14. Breakfast — Plain bread, fried corn mush, breakfast bacon, fried 
cabbage. Dinner — Fried rabbit, canned tomatoes, diced turnips ; mince pie, 
cake. Supper — Hot short cake, boiled oysters on the half shell, tea rolls, 
canned fruit. 

15. Breakfast — Crumb griddle cakes, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled corned beef with turnips, potatoes and cabbage ; baked appte 
dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Biscuit, cold beef, canned cherries. 

16. ^Breakfast — Graham rolls, croquettes of codfish with potatoes. _ Din- 
ner — Baked chickens with parsnips, mashed potatoes, celery, currant jelly; 
preserves with whipped cream. Supper — Plain bread, cold chicken, toasted 
rusk, jelly. 



906 A year's bill of pare. 

17. Breakfast — Oyster toast, broiled steak, potatoes. Dinner — Steamed 
fish, steamed potatoes, celery, Lima beans, stewed tomato; mince pie. Sup- 
'pe> — Cold rolls, chicken pates, baked apples. 

18. Breakfast — Waffles, croquettes of fish, fried potatoes. Dinner — Sat- 
urday bean soup, broiled venison steak, mashed potatoes, beets ; vinegar pie, 
cake' Supper — Toast, cold ham, buns, jelly. 

19. Sunday. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled oysters, potato cakes, 
fried jjarsnips. Dinnei — Bouillon, roast domestic ducks, mashed potatoes 
and turnips, boiled onions, celery sauce, snow jelly ; fig pudding with lemon 
sauce, cake. Supper — Tea rolls, salmi of duck, apple croutes. 

20. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, potatoes. Dinner — Mac- 
aroni soup, roast spai'e rib, baked potatoes, salsify, cabbage salad; plain In- 
dian pudding with sauce. Supper — Biscuit, cold pressed meat, sliced apples. 

21. Breakfast — .Tohnny cake, sausage, hominy croquettes. Dinner — ■ 
Bouillon with Sweedish dumplings, roast rabbits, baked jjotatoes, slaw ; ap- 
ple meringue pie, jelly cake. Supper — Light biscuit, dried beef frizzled. 

22. Breakfast — Fried pork steak, fried raw potatoes, fried cabbage. Din- 
ner — Venison roast with potatoes, boiled onions, plum jelly; chocolate pud- 
ding, cake. Supper — Sliced venison with jelly, sweet wafers, canned fruit. 

23. Breakfast — Breakfast stew of cold venison, fried potatoes, Indian 
pancakes. Dinner — Spanish pot-pie, canned tomatoes; starch pudding. Sup- 
"per — Graham mush and milk and jam. 

24. Breakfast — Sail)' Lunn, broiled beefsteak, Lyonnaise potatoes, bread 
cakes with syrup. Dinner — Chicken soup, chickens dressed with parsley 
and egg sauce, potatoes, salsify, slaw; hot apple pie with cream. Supper — 
Cold chicken, French rolls, apple sauce. 

25. Christmas. Breakfast — Grapes and bananas, broiled oysters on toast, 
waffles with honey. Dinner — Raw oysters served with sliced lemon ; turtle 
soup ; baked fresh fish ; roast turkey garnished with fried oysters, mashed 
potatoes, Lima beans, pickled beets, mayonaise of chicken salad, celery, 
cheese ramakins, cranberry sauce ; Christmas plum pudding with rich sauce ; 
mince pie, sponge and lady cake mixed, pine-apple ice fanchonettes, fruit 
and nuts. Supper or Luncheon — Curried oysters, Vienna rolls, slaw, apple 
trifle with whipped cream, lady fingers, cake. 

26. Sunday. Breakfast — Corn muffins, oysters in shell, croquettes of 
turkey, potato rissoles. Dinner — Turkey soup, quail on toast, walled oysters, 
boiled onions, celeiy and slaw ; ice-cream, cake. Sujjper — Bread and milk, 
lemon fritters with sugar, rusk. 

27. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled spare rib or sausage, pates of 
turkey hot with gravy, hominy. Dinner — Escaloped turkey, baked potatoes, 
canned corn; mince pie, cakes. Supper — Biscuit, cold tongue, cakes. 

28. Breakfast — Hot rolls, fried liver, oyster omelet. Z>ui)ie?'— Oyster 
soup, roast pig (garnished with boquettes of beets, carrots and green pickles 
carved), whole steamed potatoes, parsnips, beets, macaroni with cheese; 
peach pie with cream. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced tongue, apple croutes, cake. 

29. Breakfast — Oyster toast, veal sweet-breads, potatoes fried whole. 
Dinner — Mutton soup, mutton dressed with caper sauce, baked potatoes, 
canned pease, celery, cranberry jelly; cocoanut pudding, cake. Supper — 
Cold mutton, short cake with jam. 

30. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled veal cutlets, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Roast stufied chicken, mashed patatoes, salsify, canned corn, cunant 
jelly, celery, prairie plum pudding. Supper. — Raw oysters, French rolls, 
jellied chicken, grape jelly, assorted cakes. 

31. Breakfast. — Fried oysters, Duchess potatoes, waffles with maple 
syrup, baked apples. Dinner. — Boiled fish with Hollandaise sauce, steamed 
potatoes, canned tomatoes, canned succotash ; queen of puddings. Supper. — 
Fricassed oysters, slaw, celery, waffles and honey, canned pears. 



ADDITIONAL BILLS OF PARE. 907 

Note.— Observe that these bills of fare are made with especial reference to the ordinarv 
routine of the week in the kitchen, the meals for each day being planned to save labor 
and fuel, and to interfere as little as possible with the special work of the day. Thus 
Monday's bill of fare wll not fit ; ny other day of the week if Monday is set apart as 
washing day. The housekeeper should aim at variety on successive meals rather than in 
the same meal, remember that a few dishes daint ly cooked and served make a far more 
attractive dinner than many dishes less perfectly cooked and served. 



Additional Bills of Fare. 

New Yearns Table. — When receiving calls on New Year's day, the table 
should be handsomely arranged and decorated, and provided with rather 
substantial dishes, such as would suit the taste of gentlemen. Too great 
profusion, especially of cakes, confectionery and ices, is out of taste. Selec- 
tions may be made from the following: Escaloped oysters, cold tongue, 
turkey, chicken, and ham, pressed meats, boned Jurkey, jellied chicken, 
sandwiches or wedding sandwich rolls ; pickled oysters, chicken and lobster 
salads, cold slaw garnished with fried oysters ; bottled pickles, J- rench or 
Spanish pickles ; cheese straws ; jellies ; Charlotte-russe, ice-creams, ices, 
two large handsome cakes for decoration of table, and one or two baskets of 
mixed cake, fruit, layer, and sponge cake predominating ; fruits ; nuts ; coffee ; 
chocolate with whipped cream, lemonade. 

Refreshments. — For small evening parties, sociables, receptions, etc., 
where the rereshments are handed round or are served from a sideboard, and 
are of a simple cliaracter, everything sliould be excellent in the highest de- 
gree, delicately prepared, and attractively served. Sandwiches and coffee, 
chocolate or tea, a variety of nice cake, jellies, ice-cream or ices,, and fruits 
are appropriate. For a more pretentious occasion, a simple table prettily 
decorated with flowers, and set with fruit, lobster salad, chicken croquettes, 
pickled oysters, and one or two kinds of ice-cream and cake, and coffee and 
tea is quite enough. 

Refreslimenis for Twenty. — For a company of twenty allow one gallon 
oysters, four chickens and eight bunches of celery for a chicken salad, fifty 
sandwiches, one gallon gopher orange-ice, two molds Charlotte russe, two 
quarts of lemon jelly, one light and one dark fruit cake, two layer cakes, and 
one white or sponge cake ; for coffee use one and a half pints ground coffee 
and gallon of water; fruit cake especially, and, indeed, all rich cake, 
should be cut in thin slices with a keen-edged knife ; a small piece of each 
variety is always preferred to a plate overloaded with one or two kinds. 

Refreshments for a Hundred. — For a large company of a hundred the 
refreshments may be made more elaborate : Two gallons of pickled oysters ; 
two large dishes of lobster salad ; two small hams boiled and sliced cold, five 
cold tongues sliced thin, twelve chickens jellied or pressed, eacli dish gar- 
nished witn sprigs of parsley, slices of lemon and red beets, or curled leaves 
of celery, or the tender center leaves of lettuce ; two gallons of boughten i:)ickles 
or a gallon and a half of home-made ; twelve dozen biscuit sandwiches ; five 
quarts jelley, four gallons ice-cream; fifteen large cakes, to be made from 
recipes for rich fruit, delicate, layer, and sponge cakes ; twelve dozen each 
of almond macaroons and variety puffs; four dishes of mixed fruits; five 
pounds roasted coffee and five gallons water, which should be served just be- 
fore ice-cream and six gallons of iced lemonade to serve last. 

Refreshments for One Hundred aiid Seventy-Five. — Six gallons oysters; 
three small hams, five large turkeys, ten tongues; six chicicens and twelve 
bunches celery for salad ; three gallons pickles ; seventeen dozen buns, 
twelve loaves bread made in wedding sandwich rolls or in plain sandwiches ; 
twenty-one large cakes ; fifteen dozen large oranges sliced, seventeen aozen 
meringues, fifteen dozen pears ; twenty pounds grapes ; seven gallons ice- 



908 ADDITIONAL BILLS OF FARE. 

cream and four gallons lemon ice ; coffee made of twelve pints ground coffee 
and eight gallons water ; serve coffee and lemonade as above. 

FOE THE PICNIC. 

In the "Sunny Soutn, • picnics are in order as early as April, but in the 
more northern latitudes should never be attempted before the latter part of 
May or June, and September and October are the crowning months for them 
around the northern lakes, where himting and fishing give zest to the sports. 
First, be up at "five o'clock in the morning," in order to have the chicken, 
biscuit, etc. , freshly baked. Provide two baskets, one for the provisions, and 
the other for dishes and utensils, which should include the following: Table- 
cloth and oil-cloth to put under it, napkins, towels, plates, cups, forks, a 
few_ knives and table-spoons, tea-spoons, sauce dishes, tin cups (or tumblers, 
if picknickers are of the over-fastidious variety) : a tin bucket, for water, in 
whicli a bottle of cream, lemons, oranges, or other fruit may be carried to the 
scene of action; another with an extra close cover, partly filled with made 
chocolate, which may be* readily reheated by setting in an old tin pail or pan 
in which water is kept boiling a la custard-kettle ; frying-pan : a coffee-pot, 
with the amount of jirepared coffee needed tied in a coarse, white flannel 
bag; a tea-pot, with tea in a neat paper package ; tin boxes of salt, pepper, 
and sugar ; a tin box of butter (if carried) placed next to block of ice, which 
should be well wrapped with blanket and put in a shady corner of the pic- 
nic wagon. For extra occa-ions, add a freezer filled with frozen cream, with 
ice well packed around it, and heavily wrapped with carpeting. To pack the 
basket, first put in plates, cups, and sauce dishes carefully with the tow- 
els and napkins, and paper if needed ; then add the rest, fitting them in 
tightly, and covering all with the table-cloth, and over it the oil cloth. Tie 
the coffee and tea-pots, well wrapped up, and the frying-pan to the handles. 
Pack provision basket as full as the law allows, or as the nature of the occa- 
sion and the elasticity of the appetites demand. 

The following bills of fare may be picked to pieces and recombined to 
suit tastes and occasions : 

Spring Picnics. — Cold roast chicken ; ham broiled on coals ; fish fried or 
broiled ; sardines ; tongue ; hard boiled eggs ; eggs to be fried or scrambled ; 
Boston co'rn bread ; buttered rolls; ham sandwiches prepared with grated 
ham ; orange marmalade ; canned peaches ; water-melon and beet sweet-pic- 
kles; euchered plums; variety or bottled pickles; chow-chow; quince or 
plum jelly ; raspberry or other jams ; Scotch fruit, rolled jelly, chocolate, 
Minnehaha, old-fashioned loaf, and marble cake; coffee, chocolate, tea; 
cream and sugar ; salt and pepper ; oranges. 

Summer Picnics. — Cold baked or broiled chicken; cold boiled ham; 
pickled salmon ; cold veal loaf ; Parker House rolls ; light bread ; box of 
butter ; green corn boiled or roasted ; new potatoes ; sliced tomatoes ; sliced 
cucumbers ; French and Spanish pickles ; peach and pear sweet-pickles ; 
h'mon or orange jelly ; strawberries, raspberries or blackberries ; lemonade ; 
soda-beer or raspberry vinegar ; coffee and iced tea ; ice-cream ; lemon or straw- 
beiTy-ice ; sponge, white. Buckeye, or lemon cake ; water-melon, musk-melon, 
nutmeg-melon. 

Fall Picnics. — Broiled prairie chicken ; fish chowder ; clam chowder ; 
clams roasted or fried ; beef omelet ; cold veal roast ; sardines ; cold roast 
chicken ; pot of pork and beans ; rusk, Minnesota rolls, Boston brown bread; 
potatoes, Irish or sweet, roasted in ashes ; egg sandwiches ; mangoes, piccal- 
lilli ; Chili sauce ; quince marmalade ; baked apples ; musk and nutmeg- 
melon ; crab apple jelly ; grape jelly ; black, orange, velvet, sponge and three- 
ply cake ; combination pie. 



•ook's time table. 



OOOK'S TIME TABXiE. 





Mode of 
Preparation. 


Time of 
Cooking. 


Time of 
Diges'n 


Apples, sour, hard 


Raw 

Raw 

Boiled 

Raw 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Roaste 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Broiled 

Fried 

Boiled 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Baked 

Baked 

Melted 

Raw 

Raw 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Baked 

Baked 

Boiled 

Raw 

Fricasseed 

Boiled 

Baked 

Roasted 

Roasted 

Boiled 

BoMed 

Boiled 

Fried 

Raw 

Whipped 

Boiled 

Roasted 

Boiled 

Hashed 

Raw 

Boiled 

Roast 

Broiled 

BoUed 


H. M. 

"i 66 

15 to 30 

3 00 

1 00 
45 

* 25 
25 
25 
15 
15 

* 35 
20 

2 00 

4 30 
45 

1 00 

""i'66 

1—2 00 

45 

30 

1 00 

"i'66 

15 

30 

1 30 

1 00 

1 00 

10 

3 

5 

"i'66 

* 20 

* ""26 

30 

* """26 
''■■ 25 

1—2 00 


H. M. 
2 50 


Apples, sweet and mellow 


1 50 




8 00 


Apples, sour and mellow 


2 00 


Asparagus 

Barley 


2 30 
2 00 


Beans, (pod) 


2 30 


Beans with green corn 


3 45 


Beef 


3 00 


Beef, seasoned with salt 

Beef, with mustard, etc 


2 45 

3 30 


Beefsteak 


3 00 


Beefsteak 


4 00 


Beef, salted 


4 15 


Bass, fresh 


3 00 


Beets, young 


3 4.5 


Beets, old 


4 00 


Bread, corn 


3 15 


Bread, wheat 


3 30 


Butter 


3 30 


Cabbage 


2 30 


Cabbage and vinegar 


2 00 


Cabbage 


4 30 


Cauliflower 


2 35 


Cake, sponge 


2 31 


Cake, Ci.rn 


8 00 


Carrot, orange 


3 30 


Cheese, old 


3 45 


Chicken 


8 00 


Codfish, dry and whole 


2 45 


Custard (one quart) 


2 00 


Duck, tame 


4 00 


Duck, wild 


4 30 


Dumpling, apple ". 


8 00 


Eggs, hard 


3 30 


Eggs,soft 


3 30 


Eggs 


3 00 


Eggs 


2 00 


Fowls, domestic, roasted or 


1 30 
4 00 


Goose, wild 


2 30 


Hash, Meat and Vegetables, warmed over 


2 30 


Lamb 


2 30 




2 30 


Milk 


2 10 


Milk 


2 00 


Mutton 


2 15 


Mutton, boiled or 

Onions 


3 00 
3 Ot 







COOK S TIME TABLE. 



Oysters 

Oysters 

Oysters, fresh. 

Parsnips 

Pig's feet 

Pork 



Pork 

Pork, raw or. 

Pork 

Potatoes 

Potatoes 

Potatoes 

Rice. 



Sago 

Salmon, fresh 

Salmon, salted 

Sausage 

Sausage 

Soup, marrow bones 

Soup, beans 

Soup, barley 

Soup, vegetable 

Soup, chicken 

Soup, oyster or mutton 

Spinach 

Tapioca '...'. 

Tomatoes .' 

Tomatoes [ 

Trout, salmon, fresh, boiled or. 

Turkey, boiled or 

Turnips 

Veal . 



Mode of 
Preparation 



Veal, fresh 

Venison Steak 



Roasted 

Stewed 

Raw 

Boiled 

Soused 

Roast ed 

Boiled 

Fried 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Baked 

Roasted 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fried 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Bailed 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fresh 

Canned 

Fried 

Roasted 

Boiled 

Broiled 

Fried 

Broiled 



Time of 
Cooking. 



1 00 



25, 

20 

3 GO 

3 00 

2 00 

3 00 
2 00 

+3 30 

1—2 00 

1 30 

1 00 

30 

30 

20 

45 

20 

30 

20 



Time of 
Diges'n. 



3 30 

3 05 
2 55 

2 30 

1 00 
5 15 

4 30 
4 15 

3 15 
330 

2 30 

2 30 
1 00 
1 45 
1 45 

4 00 
4 00 

3 30 

4 15 

3 00 

1 30 

4 00 
3 00 
3 30 

2 30 
2 00 
2 30 
2 30 

1 30 

2 30 

3 30 

4 OO 
4 30 
1 35 



*Minutes to the pound. iMutton soup 

The time givea is the general average; this time will vary slightly with the quality of the 
article. 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



TABLE OF A^^EIGhHTS AND MEASURES. 

1 quart oatmeal weighs 1 lb. 
1}^ tablespoons rice weigh 1 oz. 
1 pint bread-crumbs weighs 7 oz. 
1 pint coffee "A" sugar weighs 12 oz. 
iVg pints powdered sugar weigh 1 V>. 
1 pint best brown sugar weighs 13. oz. 
Soft butter size of an egg weighs 1 oz. 
1 quart finely-chopped suet weigh 1 lb. 

1 quart unsifted flour weighs 1 lb. 1 oz. 

2 tablespoons bread-crumbs weigh 1 oz. 

4 tea-cups sifted flour (level) weighs 1 lb. 
10 medium-sized or 8 large eggs weigh 1 lb. 
14 tablespoons bread-crumbs equal 1 pint. 
SYi tea-cups Indian meal (level) equal 1 qt. 
1 quart sifted Indian meal weighs 1 lb. 4 oz. 

3 coffee-cups sifted flour (level) weighs 1 lb. 
1 pint soft buttter (well packed) weighs 1 lb. 

1 quart sifted flour (well iwaped) weighs 1 lb. 

2 tea-cups coffee "A" sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 
2 tea-cups granulated sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 
2% coffee-cups Indian meal (level) equal 1 qt. 

1 pint granulated sugar (heaped) weighs 14 oz. 
214 tea-cups powdered sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 

2 tea-cups soft butter (well packed) weigh 1 lb. 

2 coffee-cups powdered sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 
2}4 tea-cups best brown sugar (level) weigh 1 It). 
IJ^ coffee-cups granulated sugar (level weigh 1 lb. 

3 tablespoons sweet chocolate (grated) Aveigh 1 oz. 
1% coffee-cups best brown sugar (level) weighs 1 lb. 

1 tablespoon (well-rounded) of soft butter weighs 2oz. 

1 tablespoon (well heaped) of common salt weighs 1 oz, 

1% coffee-cups coffee "A" sugar (well heaped) weigh 1 lb. t^ 

4 tablespoons soft butter (well-heaped) equal one tea-cup. 

5 tablespoons sifted flour or meal (heaping) equal 1 teacup. 
7 tablespoons granulated sugar (heaping) equal one tea-cup. 

2 tablespoons (well-rounded) of powdered sugar or flour weigh 1 oz. 

2 teaspoons (heaping) of flour, sugar or meal, equal 1 heaping tablespoon. 
1 tablespoon (well heaped) granulated coffee "A" or best brown sugar, 1 oz. 



LIQUIDS. 



4 teacupfuls equal 1 qt. 

8 tablespoons equal 1 gill. 

16 tablespoonfuls equal ]4 pint. 

1 teacupful equals 8 fluid oz, or 2 gills. 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



1 pint contains 16 fluid ounces (4 gills.) 

1 ounce contains 8 fluid drachms Q4 giU.) 

1 teaspoon contains about 1 fluid drachm. 

1 tablespoon contains about }4 fluid ounce. 

A common-sized tumbler holds about J^ pint. 

4 teaspoon! uls equal one tablespoon or Ya fluid ounce. 

1 wine-glass full (common-size) equals 4 tablespoons or 2 fluid oz. 

A teaspoonful (for brevity, teaspoon is used forteaspoonful in the recipes of this book) 
is equal in volume to 45 drops of pure water (distilled) at 60 deg. Fah. Teaspoons vary so 
much in size that there is a wide margin of difiference in containing capacity. 



AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 



16 drams (dr. make 1 ounce (oz.) 
16 ounces make 1 pound (It.) 



25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.) 

4 quarters make 1 hundred weight (cwt.). 



2000 weight makes 1 ton (T). 



4 gills (gi.) make 1 pint (pt.) 
4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.) 



LIQUID MEASURE. 



2 pints make llqnart (qt.) 



WEIGHTS OF ARTICLES. 



Apples, dried, bushel 25 pounds. 

Beef, firkin, 100 " 

Pork barrel, 200 " 

Beans, bushel, 60 " 

Butter, firkin, 56 " 

tub, 84 " 

Peaches, dried, bushel,33 " 

Fish, barrel, 200 " 

" quintal, 112 *' 



Flour, barrel, net, 196 pounds. 
Honey, gallon, 12 " 
Molasses, hhd., 130 to 150 gallons, 
Salt, barrel, 3J'2 bushels. 

" bushel, 70 pounds. 
Sugar, barrel, 200 to 250 pounds. 
Soap, barrel, 256 " 

" box, 75 " 

Tea, chest, 60 to 84 " 



WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON. S17 



^WHElSr FOOD IS IN SEASON. 

Apples are in season all the year ; cheapest from August until spring. 

Artichokes (Jerusalem) are ready for use in September. 

Asparagus from the first of May until middle of June. 

Bass, a fish of which there are a dozen varieties, at all times of the year. 

Beans, String, June to November ; Lima, from July through the year. 

Beef is good at all seasons of the year. 

Beets from June through the year. 

Blackberries from July to September. 

Blue Fish, a popular fish on the sea coast, from June to October. 

Brant, a choice wild fowl, April and May, and September and October. 

Bream, a fish sometimes known as dace, in the winter months. 

Broccoli, a kind of cabbage, from September to November. 

Buckwheat Cakes in cold weather. 

Butternuts ripen in September. 

Cabbage, May and June and lasts through the winter. 

Carrots come from the south, in May, and last until November. 

Cauliflower from June until October, 

Celery from August to April, but is better after being touched by fro»t. 

Checkerberry in winter and spring. 

Cheese all the year round. 

Cherries from the south in May, and continu© till August. 

Chestnuts after the first severe frost. 

Chocolate is best in cold weather, on account of its richnftM. 

Chub, a fresh-water fish, in fall and winter. 

Clams from May until September. 

Conger Eels from November to April. 

Corn, Green, from June to September, 

Crabs from June to January, but are more wholesome in the cold month*. 

Cranberries from September to April. 

Cucumbers in the south, April ; in Middle States June to November. 

Currants, green, June to July ; ripe July to August. 

Damsons, a small black plum, July to December. 

DovKs the turtle, one of the best game birdt, U .iOjpMt iti|4 iffl«illNi'. 



918 WHEiST FOOD IS IN SEA.SON. 



Ducks, Domestic, are best in June and July ; wild in spring or fall. 

Eels from April till November. 

Eggs are are always in season, but are cbeap in spring and high in winter. 

Elderberries August and September. 

Fish, as a rule are in best condition just before spawning. 

Geese, wild from October to December, tame at four months old. 

Gooseberries from Ju.ie to December. 

Grapes from September ''"1 winter. 

Guinea Fowl, best in winter when they take the place of partridges. 

Haddock, from November and December and June and July. * 

Halibut in season all the year. 

Herring from February to May. 

Herbs for seasoning should be gathered just as they begin to flower. 

Horseradish is always in season. 

Lamb in March, but from June to August is best as well as cheapest. 

Lemons arrive fresh from West Indies in winter. 

Lobsters are plentiful in market, except in winter months. 

Mackerel from May through the summer. 

Mushrooms are most plentiful in August and September. 

Muskmelons from July to the middle of September. 

Mutton is in season all the year, but is not so good in the fall, the meat b e- 
ing drier and strong flavored. 

Onions, new, large, from the Bermudas about May 1st, and from the south 
in June, and those of home raising in the Middle States the middle of July. 

Oranges from Florida and West Indies are in market from October until 
April ; those from the Mediterranean from January until May. The Florida 
oranges are best and largest. 

Oysters are in season from September to May ; May, June and July be- 
ing the spawning months. 

Partridges, Pheasants or Ruffled Grouse, are in season in most markets 
from September to January, but are best in October and November. 

Paw-Paws are ripe about the middle of September. 

Peas, Green, reach market from Bermudas about May 1 ; from the South 
May 15 ; home grown, in the Middle States, about June 15. 

Peaches come from the Bermudas May 1 from the south July 1 ; and are 
plenty in market from August to November. 

Pears which are best for eating are in season from August to October. 

Pickerel is best from September to March. 

Pigeons, wild are plentiful in September and October. 
Pork should never be eaten in warm weather. 

Potatoes, new, arrive from the Bermudas about April ; from the South 
June to July, and are plentiful in July and August. 

Potatoes, Sweet,are in season from August to December, after which they 
lose their flavor. 
Prairie Chickens in season from August to October. 



WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON. 919 

Prunes arrive fresh frora December to May. 

Pumpkins are in season from September to January. 

Quail (often called Partridge in the South) from November and December. 

Quinces are in season from October to December. 

Rabbits are in best condition in November, but are in season from Sep- 
tember till January, and in the North later, until breeding season begins. 

Radishes are in season from April till cold weather. 

Rail, an excellent little game bird, is best in September and October. 

Raspberries are in market from the middle of June till September. 

Reed-Birds are best in September and October. 

Rhubarb from April to September. 

Salmon from March till September. 

Shad arppear in market from February 20 to June. 

Smelts are abundant from October to April. 

Snipe are in market from March 20 to April 20, and again in October. 

Spinach is the earliest vegetable used for greens, and is continued through 
the season by providing a succession of crops. 

Squash — Summer, from June to August ; winter from August through the 
winter. 

Strawberries from the South appear as early as April 1, but are not plen- 
tiful until June, and the season is over in July 

Sturgeon from April to September. 

Suckers from October to Aj^ril. 

Tomatoes are not plentiful in Northern markets before June. 

Trout, Brook, are in season from March till August, ; lake trout from Oc- 
tober to March ; Mackinaw trout in winter months. 

Turkeys are best in fall and winter, though in market all the season. 

Turnips, new, are in market about June 1, and last through the year. 

Turtles are in market from May to winter. 

Veal is in season except in hot weather, when it keeps badly. 

Venison from the buck is best from August to November, from the doe 
from November to January. 

Watermelons are in season from July to October. 

Woodcock is in season from July to November, but is best in October. 



set 



COMPARATIVE VALUE OT FUEL. 



COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FTJEH,. 

A cord of wood is 128 cubic feet ; the sticks are cut four feet long and 
piled four feet high, and in a pile eight feet long. Wood cut to stove length, 
eighteen to twenty inches, is sometimes sold as a cord, when only eight feet 
long, four feet high, and as wide as the sticks are long, but it is not, of 
course, really a cord. The fair way to sell fuel, however, would be by weight ; 
and when weights are equal the wood containing the most hydrogen will pro- 
duce the most heat. Thus, one hundred pounds of dry pine are worth more 
as fuel than the same number of pounds of dry oak. Wood can never be 
economically used in a green state, as it then contains about 25 per cent, of 
water, which must be evaporated, and all the heat required to evaporate this 
sap is wasted. We give below a table, in which shell-bark hickory is made 
the standard of comparison, rated at 100 in value and 1000 in weight, and the 
weights of other varieties show their comparative value, which may be read- 
ily estimated in dollars and cents. For instance, if hickory is worth $7.00 
per cord, the proper value of white oak would be $4.86, for as 100 (hickory) 
is to $6.00, 80 is 81 to the value of white oak, $4.86. 



WOODS 

Shell-bark Hickory. . 

White Walnut 

White Oak 

White Ash 

Scrub Oak 

Red Oak 

Black Walnut 

White Beech 

Yellow Oak 

Sugar Maple 

White Elm 

Yellow-pine 

Sycamore 

Chestnut 

Poplar 

Pitch-pine 

White-pin© 

Lombardy Poplar — 



Comparative 


Weight per 


Comp 


Weight. 


Cord. 


Value 


1000 


4469 


100 


949 


4241 


95 


855 


3821 


81 


722 


3450 


77 


747 


3339 


73 


728 


3255 


69 


681 


3044 


65 


724 


3236 


65 


653 


2916 


60 


644 


2878 


60 


580 


3592 


58 


551 


2463 


54 


535 


2391 


62 


522 


2233 


52 


563 


2516 


52 


426 


1904 


43 


418 


1868 


42 


397 


1774 


40 



COMPARATIVE VALUE OP FUEL. 911 

The quantity of combustible matter in fuel, if weight and other conditions 
are equal, is indicated by the amount of ashes or non-combustible matter 
remaining. The heating power of fuel is dependent partly on this, but not 
wholly. Fuel is valuable for various purposes in proportion to the flame It 
produces. A blaze is of great service when heat is to be applied to a great 
surface ; but where an even or lasting heat is required, a more solid fuel is to 
be preferred. 

The various qualities of bituminous, or soft, and anthracite coals, as sold 
in different markets, makes it impossible to give any accurate comparison of 
values. Measured by pounds, if anthracite is made the standard at 250, sea- 
soned oak ranks 125, or one-half in value ; hickory, 137 ; white pine, 137 ; 
yellow pine, 145, coke, 285 ; while the bituminous coals vary from 188 to 248. 

As regards the diflferent kinds of bituminous or soft coal each locality 
has its preference, but the "Briar Hill" is well known and very popular. Of 
the anthracite or hard, it is the same, there being many kinds, although 
many prefer the "Lehigh." In all hard coal there are four grades most 
commonly used : Nut, the finest, for stoves, both cook and heating; Stove, 
next larger, which is often used alone for stoves, but is best when used with 
Nut, half and half ; if there is a good draft to the chimney, it is more econo- 
mical than using all Nut. Egg, next in size and used for grates, open stoves 
and furnaces. Orate, the largest size used for large furnaces ; but when used 
with Egg, half and half makes a more economical fuel for house furnaces, 
where there is a good draft to the chimney, than egg used alone, especially 
in very cold weather. One should try it thus. 



922 irorsKKKKprvrx. 



HOUSEKEEPING-. 



Housekeeping, whatever may be the opinion of the butterflies of the 
period, is an accomplishment in comparison to wliicli, in its bearing on wom- 
an's relation to real life and to the family, all others are trivial. It compre- 
hends all that goes to make up a well-ordered home, where the sweetest re- 
lations of life rest on firm foundations, and the purest sentiments thrive. It 
is an accomplishment that may be acquired by study and experiment, but the 
young and inexperienced housekeeper generally reaches success only through 
great tribulation. It ought to be absorbed in girlhood, by easy lessons taken 
between algebra, music and painting, If girls were taught to take as much 
genuine pride in dusting a room well, hanging a curtain gracefully, or broil- 
ing a steak to a nicety, as they feel when they have mastered one of Mozart's 
or Beethoven's grand symphonies, there would be fewer complaining hus- 
bands and unhappy wives. The great lesson to learn is that work well-done 
is robbed of its curse. The woman who is satisfied only with the highest per- 
fection in her work, drops the drudge and becomes the artist. There is no 
dignity in slighted work ; but to the artist, no matter how humble his calling, 
belongs the honor which is inseparable from all man's struggles after per- 
fection. No mother, who has the happiness of her daughter at heart, will 
neglect to teach her first the duties of the household ; and no daughter who 
aspires to be queen at home and in her circle of friends, can afford to remain 
ignorant of the smallest details that contribute to the comfort, the peace and 
the attractiveness of home. There is no luck in housekeeping, however it 
may seem. Everything works by exact rule, and even with thorough knowl- 
edge, eternal vigilance is the price of success. There must be a place for 
every thing and every thing in its place, a time for every thing and every thing 
in its time, and "patience, patience," must be written in glowing capitals 
all over the walls. The reward is sure. Your husband may admire your grace 
and ease in society, your wit, your school-day accomplishments of music and 
painting, but all in perfection will not atone for an ill-ordered kitchen, sour 
bread, muddy cofFee, tough meats, unpalatable vegetables, indigestible pastry, 



HOUSEKEEPING. 923 



and the whole train of horrors' that result from bad housekeeping ; on the 
other hand, success wins gratitude and attachment in the home-circle, and 
adds luster to the most brilliant intellectual accomplishments. 

One of the first ideas the young housekeeper should divest herself of is, 
that because she is able, or expects some time to be able, to keep servants, 
it is therefore unnecessary to understand household duties, and to bear their 
responsibility. "Girls" are quick to see and note the ignorance of the inca- 
pacity of the mistress of the house, -and few are slow to take whatever ad- 
vantage it brings them, but the capacity of a mistress at once establishes 
discipline. The model house should not be large, nor to fine and pretentious 
for daily use. The mistress of many a fine mansion is the veriest household 
drudge. A great house, with its necessary retinue of servants, is not in 
keeping with the simplicity of a republic where trained servants are not 
known, and is seldom pleasant for the family or attractive to friends. Furn- 
iture should be selected for comfort rather than show. Most modern chairs 
put their occupants to torture, and throw them into attitudes any thing but 
graceful. Comfortable chairs should have broad seats, and a part at least 
low seats for women and children. Nothing is more out of taste and "shoddy" 
than to crowd rooms with furniture, no matter how rich or elegant it may be. 
Nor is it by any means necessary to have things in suites ; variety is pref- 
erable, and each room, especially, should have an individuality of its own. 
The modern style is to have all furniture be what it seems ; thus a table 
which often has a foundation of pine, put together mostly with glue, and cov- 
ered with a veneer of mahogany, waftiut, or other wood, and ornamented 
with carvings. wl»ch may mean something or nothing, which are glued to 
the work gives place to an honest table being throughout what it appears to 

be on the surface, made of solid wood ; and if a costly wood can be aftorded 

well ; if not, take a cheaper wood, but let the table be just what it pretends 
to be ; if braces or bars are needed for strength, let them show, and indicate 
why they are used ; and if ornament is desirable, let it be worked in the ma- 
terial, and not glued on. A table of this kind will last, and may serve for 
several generations, while in a few years the pine frame work warps and 
shrinks out of shape, the veneer peels, the carving gets chipped and the 
whole becomes "shabby genteel". Let the furniture represent soliditv 
honesty, and appropriateness. Sets are made of plain woods, sucli as ash 
and walnut, inlaid with porcelain tiles, and ornamented with old-fashioned 
brass rings and handles. They are valued at from thirty to two hundred and 
fifty dollars. Bedroom sets of French and English walnut, with inlaid 
woods, gilt and bronze ornaments, and variegated marbles, are sold from 
thirty-five to fifteen hundred dollars. Parlor sets of rich, carved woods, and 
satin, damask, cashmere, brocade and tapestry coverings, etc., rano-e in 
price from one hundred to twelve hundred doUai's. Ebony cabinets inlaid 
with ivory, and richly ornamented are worth from two to eighteen hundred 
dollars. Marquetry tables, work tables, library tables, Oriental chairs, lounges, 
easels, music racks, etc, of rich material and design, are valued at froin ten 



M4 HOTTftlSKBSFINft. 



to one hundred to one hundred and fifty dollars. The principal woods used ar© 
walnuts of various kinds, ash, bird's-eye maple, satinwood and kingwood. 
Kingwood is almost crimson in color. Boole cases are of all prices from twenty 
to fourteen hundred dollars, and side-boards from seventy-five to one thous- 
and dollars. It is agood rule in selecting furniture, not to buy anything not 
actually needed, to buy the best of its kind, and to pay cash or not buy. Never 
get any thing because some one else has it, and do not be afraid to wait for 
bargains. Wise young housekeepers buy furniture in single pieces or small 
lots, as they have means, rather than expend more than they can afi'ord in 
entire sets, which are really less attractive. 

Carpets or rugs should, as a rule, be of small patterns. The stoves — if 
grates or fire-places are not used — should be of the kind that may be thrown 
open or closed at pleasure. If a furnace is used, great care must be taken 
that the rooms are not kept too hot in winter, and that there is most thor- 
ough ventilation, as the health of the family depends as much on the quality 
of the air they breathe as the food they eat. To waste heat is not so bad as 
to waste health and vigor, and fuel is always cheaper, on the score of econ- 
omy, than doctors' bills. In furnace-heated houses — and the furnace seems 
to be accepted as the best heater, though apparatus for steam and hot water 
seems likely to be so perfected as to supplant it by furnishing a milder and 
more agreeable heat, entirely free from noxious gases — there should always 
be grates or fire-places in living or sleeping rooms ; and whenever the furn- 
ace heat is turned on, there should be a little fire, at least enough to start 
the column of air in the chimney and secure ventilation. It is a common 
mistake to buy too small a furnace or other heating apparatus. This ought to be 
ample for the coldest weather, so that ordinarily it need not be kept up to its 
full capacity. When a furnace is heated too hot, the little particles of dust 
afloat in the air are charred, and the air has a burnt flavor, as unwholesome 
as it it disagreeable. Without afire, chimneys are apt to draw down a current 
of cold air. If there are no grates or fire-places, do not rely on airing rooms 
from the halls, but throw open the windows and take in the outside air. This 
is especially necessary when a room is used as a study, or for an invalid. The 
air from the halls, although cold, is not pure. House-plants will not thrive in 
furnace-heated houses where gas is burned without fresh air, and human be- 
ings, especially the young and delicate, need quite as pure air as plants. In a 
study, or other room much occupied, the windows may be dropped during 
meals, and the room warmed anew before it is needed again. There must also 
be plenty of sunlight, floods of it in every room, even if the carpets do fade ; and 
the housekeeper must be quick to note any scent or decay from vegetables or 
meats in the cellar, or from slops or refuse carelessly thrown about the prem- 
ises. Many a case of fatal diphtheria or typhoid fever may be traced directly 
to the noxious vapors arising from decaying matter in a cellar, the outside of 
which is fair to look upon, while the parlors and living rooms are kept with 
perfect neatness. Such houses are whited sepulchers, and the inmates are 
doomed to pay the penalty of ignorance or carelessness. Every room must 



HOUSEKEEPING. 925 



be clean and sweet. In sickness, care in all these respects must be doubled. 
In damp and chill autumn and spring days, a little fire is comfortable morn- 
ing and evening. The food for the family must be fresh to be wholesome, 
and it is economy to buy the best as there is less waste in it. No housekeeper 
ought to be satisfied with any but the very best cooking, without which the 
most wholesome food is unpalatable and distressing ; and no consideration of 
economy should ever induce her to place on the table bread with the slight- 
est sour tinge, cake or pudding in the least heavy or solid, or meat with the 
slightest taint. Their use means disease and 'costly doctor's bills, to say 
nothing of her own loss of repute as an accomplished housekeeper. If chil- 
dren and servants do work improperly, she should quietly insist on its being 
done correctly, and in self-defense they will soon do it directly without super- 
vision. Order and system mean the stopping of waste, the practice of econ- 
omy and additional means to expend for the table and for the luxuries and 
elegance of life — things of which money is well expended. It requires good 
food to make good muscle and good brain, and the man or woman who 
habitually sits down to badly cooked or scanty dinners, fights the battle of 
life at a great disadvantage. 

SWEEPING AND DUSTING. 

The sweeping and dusting of a room seems simple enough, but is best 
done systematically. "Dusters," made of old prints, with which to cover 
books, statuettes, and such articles as are difficult to dust, and larger ones 
to cover beds, are indispensable in sweeping and dusting. "Carpet sweepers' ' 
are only fit for daily use when thorough work is not required, a thorough 
sweeping once or twice a week sufiicing even the tidiest of housekeepers. 
Before sweeping open the blinds and let in the light, and open the windows 
if it is not storming or too windy. Look on the ceiling for cobwebs, and 
sprinkle the carpet over with moistened bran, salt, damp cofiee-grounds, or 
tea-leaves. Clean the corners and edges with a sharp-pointed stick and stiff 
whisk-broom. Brush down with the feather-duster all picture-cords, frames , 
and curtains, and remove all cob-webs with a broom about which a towel 
has been pinned, going through all rooms before sweeping, changing the 
towel if necessary ; then clear one corner of furniture and begin sweeping 
toward the center with a short, light stroke, going slowly and carefully so as 
to raise no dust, and drawing, not pushing, the broom. The second time 
over, increase the length and force of the stroke, and the third, brush with 
long and vigorous strokes, using care as the dirt at the center of the room is 
approached. In this way it will take twenty minutes to sweep a large room, 
but it will be clean, and the carpet will wear bright and fresh, much longer 
than if the dirt were allowed to grind out the fabric. After the sweeping re- 
move the "dusters" carefully, carrying them out of doors to shake, and rub, 
not simply wipe, off the furniture and other articles with a clean, soft, cotton 
cloth (cheese-cloth is nice) or an old silk handkerchief, ©r better, a soft 



626 HOUSEKEEPING. 



dusting-towel with fleecy surface which is sold expressely for this purpose, 
folding the dust in as it soils the cloth, and when it is filled with dust, shake 
thoroughly out of doors. Managed in this way, curtains, furniture and car- 
pets will never be loaded with dust, but will remain bright, clean and fresh 
from one year's house-cleaning to another's. If any spot of dust is too firmly 
fixed, wash in luke-warm soap-suds, and immediately rub dry with chamois- 
skin. If there is open-work carving, draw the cloth through, or dust with a 
paint-brush ; and it will be found more convenient to blow out some of the 
places which are diflficult to reach, for which purpose a small pair of bellows 
may be used. To clean and dust a piano, use half a yard best canton-flan- 
nel with a nap free from all specks and grit, brushing lightly over to remove 
the dust ; if there are finger marks or spots, rub up and down over them, al- 
ways keeping the nap next to the instrument. Dust under the wires may be 
blown out with a pair of bellows. Keep the piano closed at night and in 
damp weather; open on bright days, and if possible let the sun shine di- 
rectly upon the keys, is the light will keep them from turning yellow. Tune 
every spring and fall. As a last finishing touch to the rearranging of the 
parlor, leave late papers, magazines, a volume of poetry, or a steroscope and 
views, where they will be readilypicked up by callers. 

THE SITTING-ROOM. 

The sitting-room should be the pleasantest, because most used, of all in 
the house. To prevent moths under the carpets, grind black pepper coarsely, 
mix with camphor-gum, and strew thickly about the edges and wherever 
they are to be found. To clean the oil-cloth, use warm water without soap, 
or, what is much better, milk and water. By keeping mats at the doors it 
will only be necessary to sweep the sitting-room thoroughly once a week, 
but occasionally, when very dusty, it may be cleaned by setting a pail of 
cold water by the door, wet the broom in it, knock off the drops, sweep a 
yard or so, then wash the broom as before, and sweep again, being careful 
to shake all the drops off the broom, and not to sweep far at a time. If done 
with care the carpet will be very nicely cleaned, and the quantity of dirt in 
the water will be surprising. The water must be changed several times. 
Snow sprinkled on and swept ofl" before it has had time to melt (be careful to 
have rooms cool), is also nice for renovating a soiled carpet. When the 
sewing machine is kept in the sitting-room, a scrap bag hung on the end of 
it for storing all bits of cloth and ravelings, and ends of thread, will save 
much sweeping. In summer, wire doors and windows or mosquito-nettings 
in the windows will keep flies out, and at the same time admit the air. 
Washing windows and wiping ofl' doors once a week after sweeping, keeps 
all tidy. To remove finger-marks, which are constant!}^ ajjpearing on doors 
about the nobs, use a damp cloth as soon as they are observed. 

THE BED-KOOM. 

The family bed-room should be on the first floor if possible, if the house 
18 properly built and there is no dampness. Matting is better for the floor 



HOUSEKEEPING. 



927 



than carpet, because freerer from dust, and this is the room used in case of 
sickness. If made properly it will wear for several years. Canton mattings 
are made on boats in pieces about two yards long, and afterward joined on 
shore into pieces of fifty yards. It is easy to see where these short pieces 
are joined ; after cutting into lengths, first sew these places across and across 
on the wrong side, then sew the breadths together and tack down like a carpet. 
Matting should never be washed with anything except moderately warmed salt 
and water, in the proportion of a pint of salt to a half pail of soft water. Dry 
quickly with a soft cloth. A bed-room matting should be washed twice dur- 
ing the season ; a room much used oftener. There should be a large closet, 
a part of which is especially set apart for children's use, with low hooks 
where they may hang their clothes, a box for stockings, a bag for shoes, and 
other conveniences, which will help to teach them system and order. The 
bedding should be the best that can be afi"orded. The inner husks of corn 
make a good under bed. Oat straw is also excellent. Hair mattresses are 
best and, in the end, most economical. Mattresses of Spanish moss are 
cheaper than hair, but soon mat down. Those made of coarse wool are ob- 
jectionable at first on account of the odor, but are serviceable and less costly 
than hair. When the woven-wire bed is used, a light mattress is all that is 
needed; and this combination makes the healthiest and best bed, because it 
afi'ords the most complete exposure of the bedding to air. The best covering 
is soft woolen blankets. Comforters made of cotton should be used with 
great caution, as they need to be frequently exposed to sun and air. The 
best comforter is made of delaines, which may be partly worn with wool in- 
stead of cotton quilted in. Beds are almost always made up too early. The 
thrifty housekeeper likes to have rooms put to rights in the morning, but it 
brings up the old adage of "the white glove" which "hides a dirty hand." 
The bed should lie open for several hours every morning, and at least once 
a week all the bedding should be thoroughly aired. Air pillows in wind, but 
not in sun. 



THE GUEST-CHAMBER. 



The bed of the guest-chamber, as well as in all sleeping-rooms, should 
stand so that when one opens the eyes in the morning the light from the 
window will not be directly upon them, as it is trying to weak eyes, and un- 
pleasant to strong ones. If the bed has a canopy to it, lay a large sheet of 
paper on top, and on sweeping day, it can be carefully lifted off, the dust 
shaken from it and replaced. This also assists in keeping the bed clean, as 
dust will filter through most material. Keep the bureau where the sun's rays 
never strike tlie mirror, and where it will not be heated by the stove, as will 
either will granulate the amalgam. Chambers should always be provided 
with transoms over the doors, and windows arranged so as to lower easily 
from the top. Tacked on the inside of the wash-stand doors, two crotched 
pockets are nice for bathing sponges, and there should be plenty of towels, 
especially of coarse, rough ones which make a morning bath such a luxury. 



928 



HOUSEKEEPING. 



It is a great protection to all mattresses to have a covering made of un- 
bleached muslin, which may be removed and washed when soiled ; some al- 
so have a light comforter made of white muslin to place upon the mattress. 
A little pocket with a flap, made of a pretty print and tied down with a bow 
of some bright colored ribbon makes a useful receptacle for the dust cloth 
(made of cheese cloth) and can be hung in the closet of all bedrooms or oth- 
er roorns ; or it will not look amiss if compelled to hang in a more conspicu- 
ous place and will be found very convenient. Among the little accessions to 
the guest-room furniture always add a button hook and a fancy little work 
basket filled with needles, thread, scissors and thimble may not come amiss to 
some transcient guest in need. Where one has a nice library it is very 
pleasant to scatter a few books in each bedroom in the house ; for this 
purpose a pretty little open case of two or three shelves may be made of 
same kind of wood in which the room is finished, and when filled with ap- 
propriate books makes a nice ornament as well as giving pleasure when a 
trip to the library could not be made. 

THE BATH ROOM. 

This should occupy as large a space as can be spared and should be ar- 
ranged with a large closet with shelves and drawers in which all things used 
in sickness could be placed, and room beneath for the different small bath 
tubs used, A shelf for medicine bottles, camphor bottle, etc., up out of the 
reach of children, should be on one side of closet and either bags or drawers 
for pieces of flannel, linen and all cloths necessary in sickness or case of 
accident; also a small sponge, and many other needful things where there 
is a family of children, who are apt to have many a cut or wound to need a 
mother's care. It is well to have the room off of the family room so there 
can be a door connecting them, as well as the main door out into hall. An- 
other very useful and convenient room, although not a necessity is 

THE SEWING ROOM. 

This is nice as far remote from the living and sleeping rooms as possible 
and the attic if finished off proves a good place. In it have shelves upon 
which to place the goods for "making up," and finished garments before 
putting away ; and on one side a set of drawers, divided up into as small 
spaces as needed, for different pieces, having silk pieces, woolens, white 
goods, etc., each by themselves. These drawers are much more convenient 
than bags for pieces, etc., as they are more easy of access, for generally with 
a bag the piece you wish is at the bottom. Now, have a shelf on side of wall 
on hinges to be used as ironing board, a sewing table, machine, lap board, 
•tc, and this useful room is completed. 

HOUSE-CIEANING. 

When mother ©arth summons the stirring winds to help clear away th» 
A«*d loavM and winter litter for the coming grass and flowers, every house- 



HOUSEKEEPING. 929 



keeper has a feeling of sympathy, and begins to talk of house-cleaning. The 
first bright sunshine of spring reveals unsuspected dust and cobwebs, and to 
her immagination even the scrubbing-brushes and brooms seem anxious to 
begin the campaign. In northern latitudes it is best, however, not to begin 
too soon. Do not trust entirely to appearances, for spring is almost certain 
to break her promises of pleasant weather, and give us a good many days 
when it will be anything but pleasant to sit shivering in a fireless room, 
while the children become unmanageable and husband growls. So, for the 
sake of health, peace, and comfort, do not remove the stoves before the mid- 
dle of May. 

Devote a week at least to preparations. See that all needed repairs are 
made about the house, and have all necessary tools on hand and in good or- 
der. Provide lime for whitewashing, carpet-tacks, good soap, sawdust, car- 
bolic acid, copperas, and spirits of ammonia. Have closets, bureau drawers, 
etc., all thoroughly renovated. Reorganize sewing table, arrange bags for 
the odds and ends that have accumulated during the winter, having different 
ones for each article, and marking the outside in some way; for instance, 
for the button-bag, sew one on the outside, and so on ; or if white they may 
be marked with indellible ink. Put pieces of ribbon, velvet, lace, flowers, 
etc., in a box, and have it in readiness for the spring "fixing up." While 
this renovating is being done, have "the boys" cleaning the yard of the 
winter rubbish and debris, as this is far more important in a sanitary point 
point of view than inside house-cleaning. "When you begin do not upset all 
the house at once, driving your husband to distraction, and the children to 
the neighbors. By cleaning one or two rooms at a time, and using a little 
womanly tact, the whole house may be renovated with little inconvenience. 

If you are a "lone woman" you will need the help of one stout girl at 
the least, unless you are stouter than the average American woman, or your 
house is very small. Hire her at least the week before, so that she can get 
accustomed to the house and your way of doing work. Be sure you wash and 
iron every thing you can find that is soiled, Then, on Saturday, do an extra 
large baking, so you will have suflicient bread, cakes, etc,, to do you the 
most of the next week. Make Sunday tndy a day of rest. Then, on Monday, 
be up early; after breakfast leave the girl to wash the dishes, sweep, and 
put things in order up stairs, and you take a man and go to the 



First have everything taken out of the cellar that does not actually be- 
longthere. The reason for cleaning the cellar _^rsi is, that it is generally left 
to the last when all are tired and nearly worn out, and is apt to get what is 
called a "lick and a promise." The cellar "should be one of the most partic- 
ular places about the house ; therefore do it first while fresh and strong. Af- 
ter all the surplus things are taken out, move the rest to one end, then give 
the end a good sweeping overhead, down the sides and underfoot. Every 
particle of vegetable remnants should be removed, and the spot which may 



930 HOUSEKEEPING. 



have been moistened by their presence thoroughly swept, and, if necessary, 
it should be scrubbed or sprinkled over with copperas water to sweeten it 
and to prevent malarial exhalations. Boxes, barrels, etc., should be re- 
moved into fresh localities in the cellar, so that the places which have gath- 
ered dampness beneath them may become dry. All the gatherings of earth 
from stored vegetables, and all the bits and shreds of things that grow, must 
be cleared away, or they will become dangerous enemies when exhalations 
that always rise from such things upon heated days shall find their way into 
sleeping apartments to poison the family with malarial gases. (The cellar 
should always be aired as early as possible after the intense cold is gone, and 
all summer long too much fresh air cannot reach its dim recesses.) 

Now wash the windows, and then whitewash every nook and corner with 
common whitewash made yellow with copperas. Do not be saving, and all 
vermin will bid your cellar a long "good-bye." Now move the things back 
to that end and treat the other end the same way ; when all is done, dust or 
wash out all boxes, barrels, etc., and return to their places, which should be 
arranged as handily as possible. Carry out all trash, wash down the steps, 
and you are -eady to leave the door and windows open and go to the 



Open the windows, gather up all papers and place in a box ; next, if rags 
are lying around, pick them up and sort them, putting in sacks (paper sacks 
are best for woolen; if not torn, will keep out moths), tie each sack with a 
strip like the rags it contains, clean up all other trash and take down to burn, 
if of no other account. Now sweep good overhead, hang up sacks and other 
articles, sweep floor, moving all boxes, trunks, and bundles, then wash floor 
up lightly, just to remove the dust. If you have seen any signs of moths 
they must be attended to, as they will be in the cracks of the floor ; it is no 
use to try to get rid of them down stairs while the garret is kept for a breed- 
house. Benzine is sure death to moths, but do not use it if there is fire in 
the house near, for it is very dangerous. If no fire, sprinkle the floor freely 
with it. The odor will soon escape at the open windows. Or take common 
kerosene and wash the floor all over ; it "smells loud," but will all be gone in 
about two days and so will the moths. Now wash down the steps (other 
wood-Avork and windows should have been v/ashed before the floor was), and 
you are done. The time taken will be in accordance with the size of the 
rooms and number of things to handle. Now for the 

BED-ROOMS. 

If there is a hall, move all the furniture out of it from the rooms, and 
put the bed out to sun. (Never clean house except in sunny weather ; if 
cloudy in the morning, try to put it off till clear weather.) 

Take down all pictures, ornaments, etc. ; clean them and put tnem away 
in the closets. Clothes, carpeting, and "trumpery" stowed away, must be 
thoroughly dusted and aired in sunshine and wind. Take up carpet, fold it 



HOUSEKEEPING. * 931 



up by lifting one side, carrying it over to the other, and laying it down care- 
fully, thus preventing straw and dust getting on the upper side. Carry it 
out and lay it on the grass or hang it on a clothes line and beat it on the 
wrong side with canes — taking care that the canes have no sharp points. 
Then spread the carpet out and sweep well on the right side. There is more 
art in sweeping a carpet than a novice is apt to suppose. An old broom 
should never be used, and a new one should be kept especially for the car- 
pets. With Brussells and velvet carpeting there are two ways to the pile, just 
as in velvet, and they should always be swept with the pile. If a carpet is 
swept against the grain, it soon looks rough and scratched up. Wash out all 
gi-ease spots with a little gall soap and clean water, after the dust is entirely 
beaten out. Take one or two pails of sawdust, wet thoroughly and scatter 
well over the floor ; a very little dust will arise when you sweep it off, and it 
will not be necessary to clean the floor before washing wood-work and win- 
dows. If you can not get sawdust, use moist earth instead. 

Wash and polish the windows, and if the walls are hard finish, they may 
be washed off lightly with soap-suds, and wiped dry. Wash floor with hot 
soap-suds, and rinse with strong, hot brine, or hot water with a strong mix- 
ture of cayenne pepper in it, to drive out mice, rats, and other vermin. Now 
take some clean old* calico and put around a new broom and rub down every 
part of the paper ; if it gets dirty, get a clean one, and wash that ready for 
the next room. If well rubbed, will make the paper look clean and bright. 
If new paper is needed or whitewash overhead, it is better to hire a man 
who makes that his daily work. The great secret of good floor-washing is 
never to do the whole room with the same water ; change it two or three 
times in a small room, and more frequently in a large room. After washing, 
wipe with a flannel, wringing it frequently. In washing wood-work, do not 
slop water enough about to run a mill, for it can be done just as well without 
making any slop. Do not use soap if the paint is good ; with rain-water, a 
soft rag, and a brush if there are any fancy moldings, give it time to soak, 
and you will find all dirt comes off, leaving the paint looking like new. In 
washing hard-wood finish use tepid water without soap, and wipe dry very 
quickly, rubbing hard to give a nice polish. Glass should be washed, wiped 
nearly dry, and finish with tissue paper. (Always save the tissue paper for 
that purpose.) In washing the floor, do not forget the closets. If moths are 
in them, use benzine on the floor ; also sprinkle the roovi floor with benzine, 
remembering that there must be no fire. When floor is dry, blow cayenne 
pepper in crack and crevice, using a small pair of bellows for the purpose. 

Now we are ready to go to the next room the same way. Then return to 
number one and put the carpet down. A carpet wears better if put down 
well, and it is better to have it done by experienced persons when the ex- 
pense can be afforded and such help can be had. Moth-proof carpet lining is 
best, but several thicknesses of newspaper come next as a carpet preserver. 
The printer's ink is an excellent moth preventive, and the newspapers keep 
the carpet from rubbing on the boards. The good old-fashioned way of put- 



932 HOUSEKEEPING. 

ting under good clean rye or oat straw is again in favor, for the reason that 
dust, so destructive to them, will pass through both carpet and straw to the 
floor. Begin at one corner, and nail down one of the sides at the cut ends of 
the breadths, continuing round the selvage side, and stretching it evenly and 
firmly without straining the fabric. When two sides are nailed, take next 
the other selvage side. The last side will require the most stretching in 
order to get rid of puckers. 

For stair carpets, make a pad of coarse cotton cloth, nearly as wide as 
the carpet, and the full length of the stairs ; fill with two or three layers of 
cotton-batting, sewed across to stay it about nine inches between seams. 
This is the best because not displaced so easily as paper. Have half a yard 
more carpeting than is needed in order to turn the carpet upside down and 
change the position of the places where the edge of the step makes a mark. 
AYhen the carpet is new, leave it uncovered, and put down stair cloth after 
it begins to show wear. Linen over-carpet in the summer is both cool and 
pleasant ; besides it helps to keep away moths. After being swept and laid 
doM^n on the floor, the carpet should be wiped. Have two pails, one of clean 
soap-suds, the other with lukewarm water, a clean flannel cloth, and two 
clean, coarse towels. Take the carpet by breadths, wring the flannel out 
of the lukewarm water and hold it so that you can turn and use it up and 
down three or four times on the same place. Rub both with and against the 
grain as hard as if you were scrubbing the floor, then throw the flannel into 
soap-suds, and rub the carpet dry with one of the dry towels. If you leave 
the carpet wet, the dust will stick to it and it will smell sour and musty. 
Wash the flannel clean in the soap-suds, wring it out of the warm water and 
proceed as before. If the carpet is very dirty or has much green in it, use 
fresh ox-gall in the lukewarm water in the proportion of a quart of gall to 
three quarts of water, and rub the carpet dry as already directed. This rub- 
bing a carpet raises the pile and freshens the colors. When the carpet is 
nicely down and swept the room is ready for its customary furniture, unless 
the more thorough renovation of kalsomining and painting is to follow the 
cleaning. Before replacing, every article should be thoroughly cleaned, ev- 
ery button and tuft of the upholstered goods receiving its share of attention 
from the furniture-brush. Sofas and chairs should be turned down and whip- 
ped then carefully brushed, and all dust wiped ofi" with a clean cloth slightly 
damped. Clean the pictures and hang them back. If photo or engraving, 
and dust under the glass, take them out and rub Avith a clean cloth. Clean 
the glass by washing in weak ammonia water and wiping dry. If gilt frames, 
wash with a little flour of sulphur and rain-water ; if rosewood or other dark 
wood and varnished, rub with Furniture Polish made as follows : Alcohol, 
eight ounces, linseed oil (raw) eight ounces, balsam fir, one-half ounce, ace- 
tic ether, one-half ounce. Dissolve the fir in the alcohol, then add the others 
and apply with a flannel cloth, and rub until dry. If oiled (not varnished), 
rub with a cloth wrung out of kerosene, and they will look like new. Go 
over all the furniture with the above polisher oil, according as they are oiled 



HOUSEKEEPING. 933 



or varnished. If ever troubled with bed bugs, go over every part with kero- 
sene. Clean all the other rooms the same way, leaving the hall until the 
last. Wash the oil-cloth with water in which some borax is dissolved, and 
wipe with a cloth wrung out of sweet milk. Follow the above directions for 
the rooms down stairs ; do not have more than two rooms torn up at once. 
Clean out all moths as you go, for they will soon ruin carpets, chairs, sofas, 
etc., if not killed. Polish the furniture as above, and do not raise any dust 
where it is for a few days. Ink stains can be iaken out with oxalic acid. 
Wash in cold water, then in a solution of chloride of lime, then in water 
again ; if white goods, warm them up in salted milk, let them lie some time, 
and then wash in water. In cleaning paint, use water in which ammonia 
has been added, till it feels slippery, or use fine whiting — to be had at the 
paint or drug stores. Take a flannel dipped in warm water, squeezed nearly 
dry; dip this in the whiting, and rub the paint with it; then wash off with 
warm water. For windows, use either of the above, or Indexical soap. For 
natural wood, or grained work, use clear water or cold tea and wipe quickly. 

Paint can be taken off where not wanted, with turpentine. Apply with 
a sponge, after a little time it will rub off; if cloth, rub between the hands 
and it will crumble off. White spots can be taken off varnished furniture 
by rubbing with a rag wet with spirits of camphor. 

It should be remembered that ammonia, especially the stronger kinds, 
is dangerous, a few drops being enough to injure a person. When used for 
cleansing purposes it should be handled with great care, that the gas which 
is given off freely in a warm room, be not breathed in large quantities, and do 
injury to the delicate lining of the nose and mouth. Benzine is a liquid, in 
the handling of which much caution should be exercised. It is very volatile, 
and its vapor, as well as the liquid itself, inflammable. When employed for 
removing grease, or other stains, from clothing, gloves, etc., it should never 
be used at night, nor at any other time near the fire. Alcohol must always 
be used with great care, especially at night. 

When the kitchen is cleaned, all the bake-pans, sauce-pans, tea-kettles, 
etc., should be plunged into a boiler filled with strong soda water; or, add to 
clear hot water some of the Washing Fluid, which you have already prepared, 
as follows : One pound of sal-soda, one-half pound stone lime, five quarts soft 
water ; boil a short time in copper or brass kettle, stirring occasionally ; let 
settle, then pour off the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork for use. After 
this, they are really purified, even if they are not scoured with sand, sapolio, 
or whatever burnishing material happens to be a favorite with the housewife. 
This process of cleaning the pots and pans is often performed by the tidy 
housewife, but it is especially appropriate at the time when the whole house 
is being purified of its half year's accumulation of soiling. A kitchen should 
have a painted wall that can be washed with a scrub-brush and water, or it 
should be whitewashed with lime. To clean the kitchen, kettle-closets and 
pantry, is usually the greatest dread of the spring campaign, but it need not 
be if the formalities of boiling the tins is going on while the walls and shelve;^ 



934 HOUSEKEEPINCf. 



are being scrubbed. Papers should be cut and fitted to the clean shelves. 
Try to have wire screens at all outside doors and all windows, and the one 
leading from the kitchen to the dining room, also the lower half of all win- 
dows. Keep plenty of husk mats and foot-scrapers at the doors, and learn to 
stop and use them. Have a place for every thing and always put it there ; it 
will save work. Do not work so hard as to make yourself sick ; better be a 
little dirty than have a spell of sickness. A kitchen and pantry need clean 
ing several times in a year, being used most and should be kept cleanest. 

Sinks, drains, and all places that become sour or impure, should be 
cleansed with carbolic acid and water. This, or some other good disinfectant, 
should be kept in every house, and used frequently in warm weather. An- 
®ther good disinfectant is copperas ; ten cents' worth dissolved in water, will 
deodorize your sink and other bad smelling places about the buildings. 
Probably there is nothing better for the purpose than copperas ; it possesses 
no bad odor. Do not place carbolic powder boxes, nor sprinkle chloride of 
lime, etc., where your drain openings exist, merely to distract your nose's 
attention from the sewer gas, which is issuing from some leaking pipe or 
choked trap ; by so doing you but ignore nature's warning, that like the 
premonitory smoke and rumblings of a volcano, advises you of the eruption 
oi the disease to come. While house-cleaning, brighten up old furniture by 
rubbing well whith kerosene oil ; should it be marred or bruised, use the 
"Magic Furniture Polish." Take bedsteads to pieces, and saturate 
every crevice with strong brine ; nothing is better to purify and cleanse, or 
to destroy bed-bugs. To clean mirrors, take clean warm rain-water, and 
put in just enough spirits ot ammonia to make it feel slippery. If very 
dirty, rinse, if not, wipe dry and you will be surprised at the effect. Do 
not polish stoves until fall if you are going to put them away during the 
summer, but to keep them or any iron utensils from rusting, rub over with 
kerosene. When polishuig, six or eight drops of turpentine added to black- 
ing for one stove, brightens it and makes it easier to polish. To remove mor- 
tar from windows, rub the spots with hot, sharp vinegar ; or, if nearly fresh, 
cold vinegar will loosen them. For pamt spots rub with camphene and sand. 
To remove spots from gray marble hearths rub with linseed oil. 

Fall house-cleaning deserves no less attention, except that white-wash- 
ing and painting can best be done in the mild days of spring, when the 
house may be thrown open to wind and sunshine. The best time for the fall 
cleaning is in the constant weather of October ; and before begining, all the 
dirty and heavy work for the winter, such as getting in coal and wood, should 
be completed, and the cellar made clean and sweet. 

PROTECTION AGAINST MOTHS. 

During the week before the "siege" of house-cleaning in spring or fall, 
look over all garments and articles to be put away, mend, remove all grease 
spots if possible. An effective mode for cleansing is to a tablespoon ammonia 
add a teacup boiling water ; when cool enough saturate a piece of the goods 



HOUSEKEEPING. 935 



or a sponge with it and rub the spot briskly, rinse with a clean cloth and 
fresh water, rubbing as before. Shape the garment with the hands so that 
the wet part will neither be stretched or shrunken ; dry in the air or by a 
sunny window. If not out repeat process being careful to rub the goods with 
the nap, then beat with a limber cane and place on the line in the wind and 
sun for a day. Towards evening, before dampness finds its way into them, 
fold them up with pulverized camphor, cut tobacco or cedar chips, laid in 
their wrinkles; wrap them in newspaper, carefully tie and label them, and 
they are ready for the closet shelves. Or, have fixed a trunk, box, or chest 
that is thoroughly cleansed, and lay an old sheet, that has, however, no holes 
in it, in this receptacle, so that the middle of the sheet is parallel with the 
bottom of the box. Lay the heaviest garments at the bottom with a plentiful 
supply of gum camphor in bits the size of a hickory-nut, or cedar shavings, 
strewn upon each garment ; when the box is filled strew camphor or cedar 
shavings on top of the last garment, and all around the edges, and fold and 
pin the sheet over so that all of the edges lap over each other. Close the 
box, and set in closet in some part of the house which is frequented often 
during the warm weather, for the presence of any animated object is certain 
to disturb the moth. Always clear out all closets and trunks early in the 
spring and brush inside with a sponge dipped in a mixture of ammonia and 
alcohol. Everything closets or trunks contain should be shaken and aired. 

Sometimes a heavy carpet, in a room seldom used, is not taken up at 
house-cleaning time. In this case lay a cloth along the edge of the carpet and 
pass slowly over it with a hot flat-iron. This will kill moths and their eggs. 
If moths are discovered in a carpet at a time when it is inconvenient to take 
it up, they may be killed in the same way. A carpet, particularly if turned 
under at edges, should not be left down longer than one year, even if not 
much used. 

All naoths work in the dark, hence clothing, furs or carpets exposed to 
the light are not in so much danger as when put away in the dark. The worms 
are torpid and do not work during the cold of the winter. Early in the 
spring they change into chrysalids, and again in about three weeks they 
transform into winged moths, when tbey fly about the house during the 
evening until May or June. Then they lay their eggs, always in dark j)laces, 
and immediately after die. The eggs which are to small to be detected with 
the naked eye, hatch out in about two weeks, and the young worms immedi- 
ately proceed to work. 

Furs should not be worn late in the season. They should be combed 
carefully with a dressing-comb, beaten and aired (but not in the hot sun), 
sprinkled with camphor gum or half and half of black pepper and cut and dried 
tobacco and wrapped in linen, sewed up, and then put in a paper bag. News- 
paper is not strong enough ; brown wrapping paper is better. Paper boxes 
may be used, but should be pasted securely so nothing can enter. Some add 
a tallow candle wrapped in paper or cloth, to the parcel, thinking it a pre- 
ventive, and the wrapping of the bundle or box in tarred paper is a good 



936 « HousEKEEPma. 



thing. Cedar chests will effectually keep out moths, but few are so fortunate 
as to possess these. Any article of fur, which has previously been troubled 
with moths, should be opened and examined in July, to make sure no moths 
is harbored in them, despite the precautions taken. This process, pursued 
resolutely year after year, will keep a house almost, if not entirely free, from 
the moth, and save much destruction and annoyance. 

In the country remote from drug-stores, many housekeepers use the dried 
leaves of sage, thyme, spearmint and other highly scented herbs. These 
are gathered after the housewife has laid in all she may require for cooking 
and medicinal purposes, are tied in bunches and dried, and then laid among 
the clothes in the large wooden chest ; or a pole is laid from rafter to rafter, 
and the clothing is hung over this, and casings of calico or old cotton quilts 
are carefully pinned around each garment, the bunches of herbs being also 
pinned at intervals about the clothing. 

KALSOMINING. 

If papering and painting, or kalsomining are to be done, do the last named 
first. Wash ceiling that has been smoked by the kerosene lamp, with a strong 
solution of soda. Fill all cracks in the wall with a cement made of one part 
water to one part silicate of potash mixed with common whiting. Put it in 
with a limber case-knife if you have no trowel. In an hour, after it has set, 
scrape of the rough places, and after kalsomining no trace of the crack will 
appear. For the wash, take eight pounds whiting and one-fourth pound white 
glue ; cover ghie with cold water over night, and heat gradually in the morn- 
ing until dissolved. Mix whiting with hot water, add the dissolved glue and 
stir together, adding warm water until about the consistency of thick cream. 
Use a kalsomine brush, which is finer than a white-wash brush, and leaves 
the work smoother. Brush in, and finish as you go along. If skim-milk is 
used instead of water, the glue may be omitted. 

PAINTING. 

If painting has been required, a patient endurance of a sufiicient number 
of drying days must be given over to this process. The smell of the turpen- 
tine will be very much diminished, and the unwholesomeness of paint almost 
destroyed, by placing in the apartments, and in the adjoining sleeping-rooms, 
several wash-bowls or pails filled with cold water. In the morning the top 
of the water will exhibit the material which it has absorbed, and which those 
who were breathing the same air would have taken into their system. If but 
one coat of paint is to be placed upon an apartment, all the wood should be 
carefully washed with strong sal-soda water, and dried before painting it, to 
remove any oily or dingy spots that would otherwise soon show through a 
single layer of either white or color. 

Any woman of a mechanical turn of mind can paint a room, buying the 
paint ready mixed. While painting keep the room well ventilated and eat 
acid fruits. AVhen done, any spatters on the glass may be removed by the 



HOUSEKEEPING. 937 



application of a mixture of equal parts of ammonia and turpentine, washed 
off with soap-suds. To polish the glass, wash in warm water, wipe with a soft 
cloth, put a little whiting on the center of the pane, and rub with chamois- 
skin or a soft cloth. 

PAPERING. 

In papering a hard-finished wall, a thin solution of white glue should be 
first applied with a white-wash brush. To make the paste, sift the flour, add 
one ounce pulverized alum to every pound of flour, mix it smoothly with 
cold water, and pour over it gently but quickly boiling water, stirring mean- 
time constantly. When it swells and turns yellow it is done, but it is not to be 
used until cool, and may be kept for some time without spoiling. Or, for 
paste, clear corn-starch is sometimes used, made precisely as made for starch- 
ing clothes. It is well to use a small quantity of carbolic acid in it, as a pre- 
caution against vermin. A thin paste of wheat, or what is better, rye flour 
is, however, very good for anything except the most delicate papers. The 
wall should be smooth, and if very smoky or greasy in spots, it should be 
washed with weak lye or soap-suds. Trim the paper close to the patern on 
one side. A pair of long shears is best for the purpose— allowing the roll to 
lie on the floor, and rolling up again on the lap as fast as trimmed. Provide 
a board wider than the paper, and a little longer than a single breadth when 
cut. Cut all the full breadths that will be required for the room, matching 
as you cut, and saving remnants for door and window spaces. Begin at the 
right hand and work to the left. The breadths may be laid one on another 
on the board, the top one pasted with a good brush, the top turned down, 
bringing the two pasted sides together, a foot or two from the other end. 
Carefully adjust the top to its place, gently pressing it with soft towels, first 
down the middle of the breadth and then to each edge. In turning a corner 
paste only that part which belongs to one side, fasten it in place, and then 
paste and adjust the rest. The border may be tacked on; No. 4 tacks will 
not be visible at the top of a room, and it may be removed when the ceilino- 
needs whitening. In selecting paper avoid contrasts in colors and large 
staring patterns, as they are out of taste and tiresome to the eye. Choose 
rather neutral tints and colors that harmonize and blend agreeably too'ether 
and with the general tone of carpets and furniture. Even with a bare floor 
and plain wooden chairs, the effect of a soft-tinted paper gives a vastly dif- 
ferent impression than if the wall is disfigured with glaring figures and con- 
trasting colors. If ceilings are low, heighten the appearance by a figure 
which runs perpendicularly through the wall-paper ; the effect produced is 
very deceptive — the ceiling appearing much higher than it really is. Wall- 
paper is half a yard wide, and about eight yards to the roll, so that it is easy 
to estimate the quantity needed. It is wise always to get one extra roll for 
repairs. After papering a room build no fire in it until dry 

HOUSE-CLEANING DOTS. 

To Clean Chromos. — Dampen a linen rag slightly and go over them 
gently. If the varnish has become defaced, cover with a thin mastic varnish. 



938 HOUSEKEEPING. 



To Remove Ink Spots From Floors. — Rub with sand wet in oil of vitrol 
and water ; when ink is removed rinse with pearl-ash water. 

Hard Whitewash. — Ten cents worth of kalsomine, five cents worth of 
glue dissolved in warm water, two quarts of soft soap, and bluing. This wfU 
do for halls, closets, fences, etc. 

To Remove Grease From Wood Before Painting. — Whitewash the spots 
over night, and wash it off in the morning. When dry, the paint will stick. 
Slaked lime laid on the spots and wet a little, will do as well as whitewash. 

To Wash Windoivs. — Dissolve a little washing soda in the water and 
wet the window well with it ; dry quickly with a soft towel, and polish with 
chamois skin or newspaper rubbed soft between the hands, or put a teaspoon 
kerosene in a quart of water, wash with that and dry and polish as above. 

Cleaning Mixture For Carpets, Etc. — Half bar Ivory soap, and a 
lump each of saltpeter and salsoda the size of a walnut ; add two quarts of 
boiling soft water ; stir well and let stand till cool, then add three ounces am- 
monia, bottle and cork tight. Will keep good a year. Some use only three 
pints water. This may also be used for bed-bugs, and it is good for cleaning 
paint, clothes, etc. 

To Clean Looking Glasses. — Divide a newspaper in two, fold up one- 
half in a small square, wet in cold water. Rub the glass first with the wet 
half of the paper, and dry with the other. Fly-specks and all othar marks 
will disappear as if by magic. This is only true of the best quality of rag 
paper, such as is used by the best weekly papers. Paper which has wood or 
straw in it leaves a linty deposit on the glass. 

To Clean Oil-Cloths. — Take a pail of clean, soft, lukewarm water, a 
nice soft piece of flannel, wash the oil-cloth and wipe ve7-y dry so that no drop 
of water is left to soak in and rot the fabric. After washing and drying, if a 
cloth is rung out of a dish of skim milk and water, and the oil-cloth is rubbed 
over with this, and then again well dried, the freshness and luster of the cloth 
will well repay the extra labor, and before or after putting down new ones, 
put on one or two coats of linseed-oil with a brush, and when thoroughly 
dry, add one or two coats of varnish. This makes the cloth softer and much 
more durable. 

Magic Furniture Polish. — Half pint alcohol, half oimce each resin and 
gum shellac, a few drops analine brown ; let stand over night and add three- 
fourths pint raw linseed oil and half pint sphits turpentine ; shake well before 
using. ^ Apply with cotton flannel, and rub dry with another cloth. Another 
polish is one and a half ounces each alcohol and butter of antimony, one half 
ounce muriatic acid, eight ounces linseed-oil, one half pint vinegar. Mix cold. 
This has been tried for twelve years and has been regularly sold for $10. 

Care of a Stove. — Where one is cramped for room to store heating 
stoves in summer, they may be utilized very nicely. If a fancy top, remove 



HOUSEKEEPING. 939 



it and the legs if pretty high and surround with a light frame, easily made, 
with a solid top and cover with drapery, making a pretty stand. A very 
high stove could be thus enclosed and placed in a corner. In a very hand- 
some residence we once saw the steam radiators that look so out of place in 
summer, covered with a board shelf on top and nicely upholstered and fin- 
ished with a lambrequin, making a pretty and useful receptacle for books, 
bric-a-brac, etc. 

Care of Oil Paintings and Frames. — Wash the picture, if soiled, in 
sweet milk and warm water, drying carefully. Or, clean the painting well 
with a sponge dipped in warm beer, and when perfectly dry, wash with a so- 
lution of the finest gum-dragon dissolved in pure water. To retouch a gilt 
frame wet the rubbed spot with isinglass dissolved in weak spirits. When 
about dry, lay on gold-leaf, and when quite dry, polish with a very hard burn- 
isher ; or some wash with a strong solution of soda, rub with a fine paper and 
then apply a coat of liquid gold paint. Give the gilt frame when new a coat 
of white varnish, and all specks can then be washed off with water or suds 
without harm. 

To Paint Floors. — After the house-cleaning is through here is a quick 
and easy way of painting the kitchen floor: Some bright, sunshim^ day, 
take three quarts soft water, and three ounces glue ; put over the fire and 
heat until glue is dissolved. Then take off and add three pounds yellow 
ochre ; now take a brush (a new white-wash brush does very well), and put 
on a thick coat all over the floor. When it is dry, which will be soon, take 
a common paint brush and boiled oil, and thoroughly cover the floor. You 
can walk on it as soon as the first coat is dry. If any would like the floor 
very light, instead of using all ocher, use two pounds of pulverized dry white 
lead and one pound ocher ; also use white glue in place of common kind. 

To Remove Ink From Fine Woods, — Ink staines on mahogany, rose- 
wood or black walnut furniture may be removed by touching the stain with 
a feather wet in a spoonful of water in which six or eight drops of nitre have 
been mixed. As soon as the ink disappears, rub the place immediately with 
a cloth wet in cold water, or the nitre will leave a white stain. If the ink 
stain then remains, make the solution of nitre stronger, and repeat. Ink 
stains on paper may be removed by a solution made as follows : Dissolve a 
a half pound chloride of lime in two quarts of soft water; let stand twenty- 
four hours and strain through a clean cotton cloth ; add to an ounce of the 
lime water a teaspoon of acetic acid, apply to the blot and the ink will dis- 
appear. Dry with blotting paper. Bottle the remainder of the lime-water 
closely, and keep for future use. 

The Care of Marble. — Never wash the marble tops of wash-stands, 
bureaus, etc., with soap. Use clean warm water (if very much soiled add a 
little ammonia) and a soft cloth, drying immediately with a soft towel. Or 
after brushing off the dust, coat with thick mucilage and let dry in wind or 



040 HOUSEKEEPING. 



sun ; it will peel oflF and thus remove dirt. There is nothing that will entirely 
remove grease spots from marble, hence the necessity of avoiding them. A 
paste of crude potash, or baking soda can be used, and whiting placed on 
the spot and left on a short time will remove them partly. To clean marble 
or marbelized slate mantels, use a soft sponge or chamois-skin, dampened in 
clean warm water without soap, then polish with dry chamois-skin. In dust- 
ing, use a feather duster, and never a cloth, as it is likely to scratch the pol- 
ished surface. To clean off smoke, wet a piece of flannel in strong ammonia 
and rub the marble quickly with it, and then wash off with hot soap-suds ; or 
make a paste of chloride of lime and water and brush over the whole surface 
that is smoky. Let it stand a minute, then wash with hot suds. 

To Clean Waste Pipes. — A simple, inexpensive method of clearing the 
pipe is as follows : Just before retiring at night pour into the pipe enough 
liquid potash lye of 36° strength to fill the "trap," as it is called, or bent por- 
tion of the pipe just below the outlet. About a pint will suffice for a wash- 
stand, or a quart for a bath-tub or kitchen sink. Be sure that no water runs 
into it till next morning. During the night the lye will convert all of the 
ofi'al in the pipe into soft soap, and the first current of water in the morning 
will remove it entirely, and leave the pipe as clean as new. The so-called 
potash lye sold in small tin cans in the shops is not recommended for this 
purpose ; it is quite commonly misnamed, and is called caustic soda, which 
makes a hard soap. The lye should be kept in heavy glass bottles or demi- 
johns, covered with wicker work, and plainly labeled, always under lock 
when not in actual use. It does not act upon metals and so does not corrode 
the pipes as do strong acids. As the "ounce of prevention" it is well once a 
month to pour down all the pipes a strong solution of sal-soda and water, a 
pound or two to a gallon of water. Have a regular day, say the first Monday 
of each month and then it will not be forgotten. 

To Clean a Papered Wall. — Cut into eight pieces a large loaf of bread 
(made without any lard or butter), two days old, blow dust ofi" wall with a 
bellows, rub down with a piece of the bread, in half yard strokes, begining 
at the top of the room, until upper part is cleaned, then go round again re- 
peating until all has been gone over. Or, better, take about two quarts of 
wheat bran, tie it in a bundle of coarse flannel, and rub it over the paper. It 
will clean the paper nicely. If done carefully, so that every spot is touched, 
the paper will look almost like new. Dry corn meal may be used instead of 
bread, applying it with a cloth. If grease spots appear, put blotting paper 
over spots and press with a hot flat iron ; or a more thorough way is to mix 
powdered fuller's earth with ox gall and cold water, and spread it upon the 
spot, let it dry on, pinning or in some way affixing to it a sheet of blotting 
paper. It had better be left for a few hours, or overnight, then brush the 
powder off very carefully and no doubt the grease will have disappeared, if 
not, repeat the process. This is almost sure to be successful if the paper is 
a good one ; a flimsy cheap one cannot be so depemded upon. Do not rub it 



HOUSEKEEPING, 941 

on, but spread on carefully. Some omit the beef's gall. In brushing down 
a wall to simply free from dust a woolen cloth is best to cover over the broom, 
f you do not use a long handled feather duster. 

To Exterminate Bedbugs. — In March scald with boiling water every 
crack or suspected place where they find refuge, and then touch thoroughly 
every crack and seam where the bugs are likely to harbor, with kerosene. 
Great care must be taken not to injure line varnished furniture. If any in- 
jury is done to varnish by the hot w-iter, it may be restored by rubbing im- 
mediately with a rag wet in turpentine or oil. Beds should 'be examined 
again for vermin in J uly and August, and if measures are taken to extermin- 
ate them, there wall be but very little trouble. Another death-dealing method 
is after the spring house-cleaning to saturate salt with water till wet enough 
to stick, and place it in the opening for slats and in any other place, and then 
with a feather apply kerosene around crevice of bed and dip the end of slats 
in a saucer of coal oil. Paris green and mercurial ointment are deadly pois- 
ons to the bedlxig, but as they are dangerous to have in the house, the first- 
named methods are preferable. One part quicksilver to twenty parts white 
of an egg, applied with a feather to every crack and crevice in bedstead and 
room, will kill them. Another deadly poison is used as follows : Dissolve 
(•orrosive sublimate in turpentine, take beds apart first of April, wash thor- 
oughly in warm water, then in all cracks or corners wdiere bugs are likely 
to frequent saturate with the corrosive sublimate ; follow this treatment 
every month until cold weather. Others use dilfei^ent insect powders to ad- 
vantage, but the safest way is to examine in March and by having a special 
day, say the 17th, it will not be forgotten ; then follow up at house-cleaning 
time with the application of salt and kerosene as above. This all wants to 
be done whether you have bugs or not, and then you never will have them. 

To Re-finish Furniture.— One of the most convenient articles the 
housekeeper can have on hand during the spring house cleaning and renova- 
tion, is a small can of hard oil finish. This makes a beautiful, bright finish 
over varnish, but when applied upon the wax finish just mentioned its most 
valuable qualities are seen. When the battered and scarred furniture is un- 
covered after the carpets are up, the housekeeper should begin the raid with 
fine sand-paper and a scraper of some kind. A putty knife is a good thing, 
but a case knife or, in careful hands, even apiece of glass will answer the 
purpose. Wherever there is a scratch that has made the wood rough, scrape 
or sand-paper a smooth surface; take off all roughness, and if the chair or 
piece of furniture is pretty well battered, attack freely. On that which is 
new and in fair condition use only a sharp knife and be careful not to en- 
large the imperfections. The object is to smooth down any little abrasions. 
This being done the use of a hard oil finish begins. A varnish brush of o-ood 
quality an inch and a half wide is needed, and also a soft brush, say a'^red 
sable, such as artists use for oil painting ; the latter need not be as thick as a 
lead pencil. The "finish" if fresh, is ready for use. If old it must be thin- 
ned with turpentine a day or two before it is used, and after several stirrings 
allowed to stand till thoroughly mixed and uniform. The furniture in good 
condition needs only to be touched upon the cracks and scratches with the - 
small brush. Certain kinds of blemishes may be covered by taking a little 
of the finish on a cloth, over the thumb, and rubbing them out, and it is not 
a bad plan to do this from time to time during the year. If a panel or other 
member must have a coat, put the finish on over the whole surface with a 
light touch of the brush to smooth it down. When done let it alone. Do 
what is to be done quickly. The older pieces and those most badly used 
may have a complete coat. If a chair or piece with openings is to be reno- 
vated, cover the edges first, doing it quickly; getonenougJi of the finish, but 



942 HOUSEKEEPING. 



not too much or there will be mortification of seeing it run down. When a 
panel, back leg or arm has been begun, finish, before touching any other 
part. Let the brush sweep from end to end of each section at a single stroke. 
Do the work in a room free from du8t, and when finished shut the room up 
until the varnished surface is hard and dry. Drying depends on the weather 
and temperature, but it should be continued until the varnish or finish is so 
hard as not to feel sticky even when hand has been pressed on it a minute. 

To Remove Grease Spots from Carpets. — We give below many ways of 
removing grease when cleansing an entire carpet after it has been taken up, 
or for spots when it is on the floor. Mix a beef gall well in a pail of hot 
water ; take out some in a pan and with a clean piece of flannel rub the spot 
vigorously ; if of long standing a small brush will be found necessary. When 
clean wash with some M'arm soap-suds and then with clear, waim water. 
The entire carpet may then be scrubbed with warm soap-suds, putting no 
soap on the carpet, then wash off with clear, warm water, once or twice, till 
it looks clean and bright. The washing is best done on a clean grass plot, 
or, on a clean floor in laundry or barn ; then, if possible, hang on a strong 
rope or any place to dry, A brussels, ingrain or rag carpet may be treated 
thus, or the two latter may be washed on a wash-board, or pounded in a barrel. 

A brussels carpet may also be treated in the following manner when not 
taken up ; after it has been swept, sprinkle with a liberal supply of salt, and 
after an hour or so, sweep oflT with a new broom. Then in a basin of hot 
water put a teaspoon of ammonia, and with some fine soap and clean white 
flannel cloths go over all the soiled spots and stains, then washing them with 
the suds, being careful not to be too lavish in the expenditure of water ; then 
with clean hot water and clean flannel cloths, rinse the spots. The next day, 
after the spots have become quite dry, it will look as clean as new. If it is 
a very old carpet and jnuch faded mix some of the Diamond dyes, and with 
a camel's hair brush touch up and tone up all the faded flowers and leaves, 
using the same colors as they were Avhen new; for instance, if the blue had 
faded to a dirty slate color touch up with blue, and so on till the entire car- 
pet is thus brightened and the result will fully repay the labor. A spot or 
two of grease may easily be taken out by covering it thickly with flour, some 
prefer buckwheat, pinning over a paper and leaving it on a few days or even 
a week, then brushing off, and if not entirely eradicated dust again. For 
Removing Ink Stains, there is nothing better than milk, new being better. If 
done directly it will of course be best, but stains of a long standing, if per- 
severed with, will after awhile be got out. Well drench the ink stain with 
milk, and when thoroughly darkened with the ink, wipe up and repeat the 
operation. This will do for very delicate carpets as well as for others, Some- 
times it is necessary to rub quite hard. Here are some additional hints in 
regard to carpets which may be of help to some. To Mend or Piece Out 
Brussels Carpet, cut the edges to match with a sharp knife or strong shears ; 
turn the right sides togother and overcast with linen thread ; then smooth 
out the seam little bj^ little in the hand, going over it on the wrong side with 
a deep " over-and-under " stitch, closely placed, and drawing the thread very 
tight in and out through the canvass weaving on the under side. Piecing 
done in this manner is scarcely discernible. We have seen handsome rugs 
and chair covers made in this way for upholstering renovated furniture. 

In putting down carpets some advise when newspapers are used to put a 
dozen layers, as it both keeps out cold and makes a soft footing. The use of 
straw allows the dirt to pass through to the floor and thus avoids the raising 
of so much dust when sweeping. Where straw is objected to, cheap straw 
matting may be used as the dust sifts through that. This is especially good 
in localities troubled with a great deal of dust during rainless seasons. 



HOUSEKEEPING. 943 



After taking up a carpet an easy way to remove the dust from the floor is 
to dampen clean saw dust with water and sprinkle on the floor, then sweep 
with a broom ; or newspapers torn in flne bits and dampened may be used 
in same way. After a carpet is cleaned, ready for laying, it is nice to sprinkle 
with salt and let stand an hour or so, then sweep off". ' Some also use camphor 
gum in same way when a carpet is first taken out doors, thinking it is good to 
kill the moths if any, but it is rather an expensive method. Ordinany stains 
are said to be restored to their original color by the use of benzine. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 

On Monday, wash ; Tuesday, iron; Wednesday, bake and scrub kitchen 
and pantry ; Thursday, clean the silver-ware, examinine the pots and kettles, 
and look after the store-room and cellar ; Friday, devote to general sweeping 
and dusting ; Saturday, bake and scrub kitchen and pantry floors, and prepare 
for Sundays. When the clothes are folded off the frame after ironing examine 
each piece to see that none are laid away that need a button or a stitch. Clean 
all the silver on the last Friday of each month, and go through each room 
and closet to see if things are kept in order and nothing going to waste. 
Have the sitting-room tidied up every night before retiring. Make the most 
of your brain and your eyes, and let no one dare tell you that you are devoting 
yourself to a low sphere of action. Keep cool and self-possessed. Work 
done quietly about the house seems easier. The slamming of oven doors, and 
the rattle and clatter of dishes, tire and bewilder every body about the house. 
Those who accomplish most in housekeeping — and the same is true of every 
other walk in life — are the quiet workers. 

To Prevent Hinges Creaking. — Rub with a feather dipped in oil. 

Rainy Days. — Make the house as bright and sunshiny as possible. 

To Drive off Fleas. — Sjirinkle about bed a few drops of oil of lavender. 

Soap. — It is a great saving to have bars of soap dry. It should be bought 
by the quantity. 

Red Ants. — A small bag of sulphur kept in a drawer or cupboard will 
drive away red ants, 

To Prevent Pails from Shrinking. — Saturate pails and tubs with glycerine, 
and they will not shrink. 

To Destroy Cockroaches, etc. — Sprinkle the floor with hellebore at night. 
They eat it and are poisoned. 

To Keep Flies off Gilt Frames. — Boil three or four onions in in a pint of 
water and appjy with a soft brush. 

To Remove Old Putty from Window-Frames. — Pass a red-hot poker slowly 
over it, and it will come off easily. 

To Soften Hard Water. — Hard water becomes nearly soft by boiling. A 
piece of chalk will soften hard spring-water. 

Icy Windows. — Windows may be kept free from ice and polished by rub- 
bing the glass with a sponge dipped in alcohol. 

Lost Children. — Label children's hats with the name and place of resi 
deuce so that, if lost, they may be easily restored. 



944 HOUSEKEEPING. 



Provide on Saturday for Monday, so as not to take up the fire with cook- 
ing, or time in running errands on washing-day. 

Coal Ashes make excellent garden walks. They become very hard by use 
and no weeds or grasss will grow through them. 

To Soften Cistern- Water. — Cistern-water that has become hard from long 
standing, can be softened by adding a little borax. 

To Destroy the Smell of Fresh Paint. — Sprinkle hay with water in which 
chloride of lime has been mixed, and place on floor. 

Parcels. — When parcels are brought to the house, fold paper and put away 
in drawer, and roll the string on a ball kept for the purpose. 

Ants and Insets. — Dissolve two pounds alum in three quarts water. Ap- 
ply with a brush while hot to every crevice where vermin harbor. 

Silver-ware when set away, keeps best wrapped in blue tissue paper ; or 
when put in a tight cupboard place a piece of camphor gum with it. 

Cement for China. — To a thick solution of gum arable add enough plaster 
of paris to form a sticky paste ; apply with a brush, and stick edges together. 

Sheets. — When sheets are beginning to wear in the middle, sew the salvage 
sides together and rip open the old seam, or tear in two and hem the sides. 

To Make Artifcial Coral. — Melt together four parts yellow resin and one 
part vermilion. Dip twigs, cinders, or stones in this, and when dry they will 
look like coral. 

To Sew Carpet-rags on a Machine. — Make the stitch short, run it obliquely 
across the rags where they are to be joined, and sew a good many before cut- 
ting the thread. 

Mending. — Never put away clean clothes without examining every piece 
to see if they are in any way out of order. Stockings, particularly, should be 
carefully darned. 

To Destroy Weeds in Walks — Boil ten pounds stone-lime, five gallons water 
and one pound, flour of sulphur, let settle, pour ofl" clean part, and sprinkle 
freely on the weedy walks. 

To Cleanse a Sponge. — By rubbing a fresh lemon thoroughly into a soured 
sponge and rinsing it several times in lukewarm water, it will become as 
sweet as when new. 

A Rustic Frame. — A neat rustic frame for pictures may be made of cat-tail 
rods. Hide the corners where they are joined with ivy, or a vine made of 
leather leaves or handsome autumn leaves and the berries of bitter-sweet. 

To Mend Tin. — Scrape the tin about the hole free from greese and rust, 
rub on a piece of resin until a powder lies about the hole, over it lay a piece 
of solder, and hold on it a hot poker or soldering iron until it melts. 

Bad Smells. — Articles of clothing, or of any other character, which have 
become impregnated with bad-smelling substances, will be freed from them 
by burying for a day or two in the ground. Wrap up lightly before burying. 

To Temper Lamp Chimneys — Lamp chimneys and glass-ware for hot water 
are made less liable to brake by putting in cold water, bringing slowly to 
boiling point, boiling for an hour, and allowing to cool before removing from 
water. 



HOUSEKEEPING. 945 



To Restore White Spots. — Oil, lard, or butter, rubbed on white spots on a 
dining table, caused by hot dishes or flat irons, will bring back their original 
color. This is sometimes good for spots on varnished articles whitened by 
dampness. 

To Hang Pictures. — The cheapest and best material with which to hang 
pictures is copper wire, of a size proportioned to the weight of the picture. 
When hung, the wire is scarcely visible, and its strength and durability is 
wonderful. 

Care of Slate Hearth. — These a¥e preferable to marble, as they are not so 
easily soiled. To wash them, use a clean cloth and warm water. Many oil 
them thoroughly when new with linseed oil ; thus prepared they never show 
grease spots. 

To Clean Hearths. — Soapstone or sandstone hearths are cleaned by wash- 
ing in pure water, then sprinkling with powdered marble or soapstone, and 
rubbing with a piece of the stone as large as a brick, and having at least one 
flat surface. 

Lightning Cream for Paint on Clothes. — Four ounces white castile soap, four 
of ammonia, two of ether, two of alcohol, one of glycerine ; cut the soap fine, 
dissolve in one quart of soft water over the fire, and when dissolved add the 
other ingredients. 

Lamp-wicks — To insure a good light, wicks must be changed often, as they 
soon become clogged, and do not permit the free passage of the oil. Soaking 
wicks in vinegar twenty-four hours before placing in lamp insures a clear 
flame. Felt wicks are best. 

A Cheap Carpet. — Make a cover for the floor of the cheai^est cotton cloth. 
Tack it down like a carpet, paper it as you would a wall with paper resem- 
bling a carpet in figures, let it dry, varnish with two coats of varnish, and with 
reasonable usage it will last two years. 

To Make Rag Rugs. — Cut rags and sew hit and miss, or fancy striped as 
you choose ; use wooden needles, round, smooth, and pointed at one end, of 
any convenient length. The knitting is done back and forth (like old fashion- 
ed suspenders), always take off the first stitch. 

Mending Plaster of Paris. — Gum shellac makes an excellent strong cement 
for joining broken pieces together, and is more convenient than glue. The 
shellac should be flowed upon the surfaces to be joined, firmly pressed to- 
gether, and carefully set away for about an hour. 

To Keep Ice Water. — Make a hat-shaped cover of two thicknesses of strong 
brown paper with cotton-batting quilted between, large enough to drop over 
and completely envelop the pitcher. This prevents the warm air from com- 
ing in contact with the pitcher, and the ice will last a long time. 

To Sweep a Rag Carpel. — Set a pail of water outside the door and dip the 
broom in it, shaking the water off, so there will be no wet streaks on the car- 
pet ; sweep but a small portion, and then dip the broom again ; in this way the 
dust is taken up in the broom, instead of being sent whirling through the air. 

Cement for Attaching Metal to Glass. — Mix two ounces of a thick solution 
of glue with one ounce of linseed oil varnish, and half an ounce of pure spirits 
of turpentime ; boil the whole together in a close vessel. After it has been 
applied to the glass and metal, clamp together for two or three days until dry 

To Imitate Old Oak. — To make oak paneling look like old oak, put some 
common soda into hot water, let the solution be very strong, and sponge the 



946 



HOUSEKEEPING. 



oak over two or three times with it. When it is quite dry rub with fine sand 
paper, as the soda raises the grain of the wood, and finish ofi" with the best 
linseed oil. 

To Take Out Rusted Screws from Woodwork. — Apply heat to the head of 
screw. A small bar or rod of iron, flat at the end, if reddened in the fire and 
applied for a couple or three minutes to the head of the rusted screw, renders 
its withdrawal as easy by the screw driver as if it was only a recently insert- 
ed screw. 

To Paste Paper on Tin. — Make a thia paste of gum-tragacanth and water, 
to which add a few drops of oil of vitriol. Mix a pound each of transparent 
glue and very strong vinegar, one quart alcohol, a small quantity of alum, and 
dissolve by means of a water bath. This is useful for uniting horn, pearl, 
shell and bone . 

Cane Chair Bottoms. — To clean and restore the elasticity of cane chair- 
bottoms, turn the chair bottom iipward, and with hot water and a sponge wasb 
the cane work well, so that it is well soaked ; should it be dirty use soap, let 
it dry well in the air, and it will be tight and firm as new, provided none of 
the canes are broken. 

To Paint Houses. — Have them painted in the fall ; October or November 
is the best time for it. The wood does not absorb the oil so readily, and dur- 
ing the winter it hardens and forms a compact coating. When put on during 
the spring or summer the wood takes up the oil and leaves the paint dry and 
it will soon crumble and wash off. 

To Start a Fire in Damp, Still Weather. — Light a few bits of shavings or 
paper placed upon the top of the grate ; thus by the heated air's forcing itself 
into the chimney and establishing there an upward current, the room is kept 
free from the gas and smoke which is so apt to fill it, and the fire can then be 
lighted from below with good success. 

To Clear Cistern Water. — Add two ounces powdered alum and two ounces 
borax to a twenty barrel cistern of rain-water that is blackened or oily, and 
in a few hours the sediment will settle, and the water be clarified and fit for 
washing and even for cooking purposes, or to clear a small quantity use a 
teaspoon powdered alum to four gallons water. 

A Good Cement, for stopping holes in castings, covering screws or mend- 
ing broken pottery is made by taking equal parts of gum arable, plaster of 
paris and iron filings, with a little pulverized glass. This mixture forms a 
very hard cement that will resist the action of fire and water. It should be 
kept dry and soffened with a little water when used. 

Dust from Carpets. — A good way to remove dust from a carpet is to fasten 
a damp cloth over the broom ; with this the dust may be literally taken up. 
This will be found useful in the sick room, and also in any room where there 
are many small articles to catch dust. It brightens a carpet to wipe it off in 
this way even after the usual sweeping has been done. 

Putting Away Clothes. — Before putting away summer or winter clothes, 
mend, clean, brush, shake well, fold smoothly, sprinkle gum-camphor on 
every fold, and on the botton of trunks or closets (unless cedar chests are 
used"). Fine dresses, cloaks, etc., should be wrapped in towels or sheets by 
themselves, and placed in a tray or a separate apartment of the trunk. 

How to Wash Chamois Leather. — Make a good, tepid suds with hard or 
soft soap, put in leather, rub it on the wash-board, put soap on skin and rub 
again on board, and wash in this way through one or two suds, or until per- 



HOUSEKEEPING. 947 



fectly clean ; rinse in tepid water without bluing, squeeze dry (do not wring), 
hang in sun and keep snapping and pulling it till perfectly dry. The leather 
will be as soft as new if the snapping and pulling are done thoroughly. 

To Clean Silver-ware Easily. — Save water in which potatoes have been 
boiled with a little salt, let it become sour, which it will do in a few days ; heat 
and wash the articles with a woolen cloth, rinsing in pure water, dry and 
jjolish with chamois leather. For wiping sih'er, an old linen table-cloth cut 
up in pieces of convenient size, hemmed, and marked "silver," is very nice. 

Economicil Mats for use in front-doors, fire-places, bureus, stands, etc., 
may be made of coffee sacking, cut to any desired size, and worked in bright 
worsted or Germantown wool. Any simple pattern may be used or it may 
be entirely filled in with a plain green. The edges of the sacking may be 
fringed by raveling. To give it weight, line with an old piece of carpet or 
heavy cloth. 

A Good Cement. — For mending almost anything, may be made by mixing 
litharge and glycerine to the consistency of thick cream or fresh putty. This 
cement is useful for mending stone jars, stopping leakes in seams of tin-pans 
or wash-boilers, cracks and holes in iron kettles, fastening on lamp-tops; in 
all cases the article mended should not be used till the cement has hardened. 
This cement will resist the action of water, hot or cold, acids, and almost any 
degree of heat. 

To Preserve Books. — Bindings may oe preserved from mildew by brush- 
ing them over with the spirits of wine. A few drops of any perfumed oil will 
secure libraries from the consuming eflfects of mold and damp. Russia leath- 
er which is perfumed with the tar of the birch-tree, never molds or sustains 
injury from damp. The Romans used oil of cedar to preserve valuable man- 
uscripts. Russia-leather covered books, jDlaced in a stationer's window, will 
destroy flies and other insects. 

Badly Filling Doors. — When blinds and doors do not close snugly, but 
leave cracks through which drafts enter, the simplest remedy is this :' Place 
a strip of putty all along the jambs, cover the edge of the blind or door with 
chalk, and shut it. The putty will then fill all spaces which would remain 
open and be pressed out where it is not needed, while the excess is easily re- 
moved with a knife. The chalk rubbed on the edges prevents adhesion, and 
the putty is left in place, where it soon dries and leaves a perfectly fitting jamb^ 

Cellar Floor. — A cellar floor may be cemented as follows : Level the sur- 
face very carefully, without making any hollows that will require filling, oth- 
erwise the surface should be beaten hard and rammed. Then cover the floor 
with two inches of broken stone and cement mortar, and beat this down 
tliorougbly, making a smooth surface with a trowel. Finally put on a surface 
coat of half an inch of clear cement (Portland is best) and water, rub smooth 
with a mason's float. If troubled with rats strew lime and coperas over floor. 

Finish for Room. — A room with plain white walls is finished beautifully by 
placing a black walnut (or the same wood with which the room is finished) 
molding around the n loni where the boj'der of paper is usually placed, at the 
junction of wall and ceil:ng, or when tlie room is papered or fi-escoed place 
it at bottom of the border or frieze. The molding finiphed in oil, costs from 
one to five cents a foct, and is easily put up. The upper edge should be 
rounded, and a space uf a quarter inch left between it and ceiling. To hang 
pictures buy an S liook, sold at all hardware stores, ] tice one hook over the 
moulding, hang the pk-ture cord on the other, and slip to the right or left to 
the desired position. This saves the wall from injurv from picture-hooks. 



948 HOUSEKEEPING. 



Perpetual Paste. — Dissolve a teaspoon of alum in a quart of water. When 
cold, stir in as much flour as will give it the consistency of thick cream, being 
particular to beat up all the lumps; stir in as much powdered resin as will 
lay on a five cent piece, and throw in half a dozen cloves to give it a pleasant 
odor. Have on the fire a tea-cup of boiling water, pour the flour mixture in- 
to it, stirring well at the time. In a few minutes it will be of the consistency 
of mush. Pour it into an earthen vessel, let it cool, lay a cover on, and put 
in a cool place. When needed for use, take out a portion and soften it with 
warm water. Paste made in this way will last a year, It is better than gum, 
as it does not gloss the paper. 

Indelible Ink. — Two drams lunar caustic, six ounces distilled or rain- 
water ; dissolve, and add two drams gum-water. Wet the linen with the fol- 
lowing preparation : Dissolve one-half an ounce prejjared natron, four ounces 
water, add half ounce gum-water, (recipe below) ; after smooting it with a 
warm iron, write with the ink, using a gold, a quill, or anew steel pen. The 
writing must be exposed to a hot sun for twelve hours ; do not wash for one 
week, then be pai'ticular togetout the stain which the preparation will make. 
If this is followed in every particular, there need be no failure. Gum-water for 
the above is composed of two drams gum-arabic to four ounces water. One 
teaspoon makes two drams, two tablespoons make one ounce. If at anytime 
the ink becomes too pale add a little of pure lunar caustic. Never write 
without using the preparation, as it will rot the cloth. 

Fanner^s Dour Mat. — Every doorstep should be provided with a foot- 
scraper and a brush or broom, and every one, as he comes in, should take the 
time to use them before appearing on the carpet or clean floor. If a regular 
scraper — one made for the purpose — is not at hand, one can make one from 
a bit of hoop-iron, which is to be placed on a step or edge of the porch in a 
convenient place. It is well to provide a "mud-mat," which is simply strips 
an inch or so square — fence pickets will answer — screwed to three or four 
cross-pieces an inch apart, or a more elaborate one can be made by stringing 
the slats upon fence wires. One with muddy boots is very apt to stamp and 
rub them on the steps or floor of the porch ; a mud-mat will clean them off 
more efl"ectually, and save the porch hard wear. A veiy excellent mat may 
be made by boring holes in a board, and drawing corn husks through the holes. 
Careful persons change their foot-gear when they enter the house to remain 
any length of time — a custom conducive not only to neatness, but so greatly 
to comfort, that it is to be commended. 

Movhig. — When about to move to another house, begin packing two weeks 
beforehand. Carefully packing small and fragile articles in boxes and barrels. 
In this way, china and glassware, and fragile ornaments may be stowed away 
with odd articles of clothing, bedding, etc. Books should be packed in box- 
es, or wrapped several in a package, in several thicknesses of newspaper, and 
tied with strong twine. They can thus be transported with very little hand- 
ling. Larger pictures should be taken down and tied in couples, face to face, 
with rolls of soft paper between the corner.s to prevent rubbing. Small pic- 
tures may be packed with clothing in bureau drawers and trunks. Take up 
carpets last. When about ready to move , select one room up-stairs into which 
remove everything possible from the other rooms, and another below for the 
same purpose. If the occupants of the house into which you are to move will 
do the same, you can easily make some rooms there ready for occupancy. Of 
course each room must be swejit down and scrubbed. As soon as the "floors 
are dry, carpets may Joe put down in the more important rooms, and the fur- 
niture moved in. On the day the transfer is made, see that coal or fuel is 
provided, so that a fire niay be started, and take along a basket, with match- 
es, towels, napking, knives and forks, sugar, tea, bread and other materials 



HOUSEKEEPING. 949 



for lunching. With all the caution you can exercise, you wfU find Franklin's 
old saying true, that "three removes are as bad as a fire." Houses that have 
been empty may become fever breeders when they come to be re-occupied. 
An English sanitary oflicer alleges that he has observed typhoid, diphtheria, 
or orther zymotic affections to arise under these circumstances. The cause 
is supposed to be in the disuse of the cisterns, pipes and drains, the process 
of putrefaction going on in the impure air in them, and unobstructed access 
of this air into the house, while the closure of windows and doors effectually 
shuts out fresh air. Persons moving from the city to their country homes iii 
the summer, should see that the drains and pipes are in perfect order, that 
cellars and closets are cleared of rubbish, and' the whole house thoroughly 
aired before occupying. Copperas used freely in the cellar is a good and 
cheap disinfectant. 

Labor-saviag Contrivances. — Every good housewife has neatly arranged 
cupboard and dish closet. Everything has its appropriate shelf and division. 
But there are other things for which provision should be made. A pile of 
books is sometimes seen in one part of a dining-room, a few newspapers in 
another, and a pair of shoes in a third. The inside of a closet is sometimes 
a mass of confusion — "a place for everything," and everything thrown pro- 
miscuously into it. Half a dozen garments are hung upuii one nail, to crowd 
each other out of shape ; others are thrown upon the floor amid heaps of boots 
and shoes. And so on to the end of the chapter of carelessness and slovenly 
disorder. There is no excuse for such carelessness, and no satisfaction in 
such housekeeping. Want of time is no excuse, for such want of system and 
order is the cause of the most prodigal waste of time. It is only necessary to 
use the brain a little to save the hands. Systematic habits, doing every thing 
well, and the hundred little contrivances which will suggest themselves to 
every neat and ingenuous housekeeper, will save time, and establish order 
and cleanliness. Have shelves in the closet, and regular rows of hooks, and 
plenty of them ; let one side be appropriated to one kind of clothing, with a 
hook for each article If necessary to preserve the order, make a neat label, 
and paste over each hook. Make Shoe-pockets (these pockets are made of 
about two and a half yards of calico ; one yard of which makes the back, to 
be tacked to the door when done. Split the remaining yard and a half in 
two, lengthwise, and, placing the strips about one inch apart, make, across 
the back, three rows of pockets, by stitching first the ends of the strips to the 
sides of the back, and then gather the bottom of each strip to fit the back ; 
then separate each strip into two, three, or four pockets, according to 
the use for which they are designed, and fasten by stitching a narrow 
"piping" of calico, from top to bottom of the back, between the poc- 
kets. All the work may be done on a machine. A border of leather, stitched 
on the edges of the back, and a narrow strip used instead of the calico "pip- 
ing," make whole much stronger) on the inside of the doors, and never put 
any thing on the closet floor, where it will be trodden upon in entering for 
other articles. Never stuff anything away out of sight in haste and disorder. 
Hiding dirtiness does not cure it. Those who write many letters should have 
a case, with "pigeon holes" labeled and arranged alphabetically — a box for 
three or four letters is sufficient — in which to keep them, with one compart- 
ment for unanswered letters. When the case becomes crowded, or at the 
end of the year, wrap in packages, and label with letter and the year. News- 
papers and magazines, when preserved, should be neatly filed in order and 
laid away, or sent away for binding. The Work-basket, which is in daily use, 
is often a spectacle for gods and men — the very picture of confusion and dis- 
order. When it can be afforded, one of the new ladies' adjustable work-tables, 
of which several admirable styles are made and widely advertised, will be 
found a great convenience, especially where there are children — whose little 



950 HOUSEKEEPING. 



fingers delight in tumbling the contents of the basket. If a basket is used, 
it should be divided into compartments. A circular basket, with divisions 
about the edge for smaller articles, and larger spaces in the center, is con- 
venient, and easily kept in order. All these, and hundreds of other devices 
like them, are labor-savers, which relieve housekeeping of a large share of its 
burdens. And a calculation of the time spent every year in hunting through 
closets for lost overshoes or slippers, or in cleaning up the scattered items in 
the sitting-room when company is coming in, and searching for missing let- 
ters among a miscellaneous pile thrown into a drawer, will give a startling 
result, and convey some adequate idea of the real money and time-value of 
that love of neatness and order which is on6 'of the cardinal virtues in women. 

HOUSEKEEPERS ALPHABET. 

Apples — Keep in dry place, as cool as possible without freezing. 
Brooms — Hang in the cellar-way to keep soft and pliant. 
Cranberries — Keep under water, in cellar, change water monthly. 
Dish of hot water set in oven prevents cakes, etc., from scorching. 
Economize time, health, and means, and you will never beg. 
Flour — Keep cool, dry and securely covered. 

Glass — Clean with a quart of water mixed with table-spoon of ammonia. 
Herbs — Gather when beginning to blossom ; keep in paper sacks. 
Ink Stains — Wet with spirits turpentine, after three hours rub well. 
Jars — To prevent, coax "husband" to buy "Buckeye Cookery." 
Keep an account of all supplies, with cost and date when purchased 
Love lightens labor. 

Money — Count carefully when you receive change. 
Nutmegs — Prick with a pin, and if good, oil will run out. 
Orange and Lemon Peel — Dry, pound, and keej) in corked bottle. 
Parsnips — Keep in ground until spring. 
Quicksilver and white of an egg destroy bedbugs. 
Rice — Select large, with a clear fresh look ; old rice may have insects. 
Sugar — For general family use, the fine granulated is best. 
Tea — Equal parts of Japan and green are as good as English breakfast. 
Use a cement made of ashes, salt, and water for cracks in stove. 
Variety is the best culinary spice. 
Watch your back yard for dirt and bones. 
Xantippe was a scold. Don't imit.ate her. 
Youth is best preserved by a cheerful temper. . 

Zinc-lined sinks are better than wooden ones. 

& regulate your clock by your husband's watch, and in all apportion- 
ments of time remember the Giver. 



THE DINING-ROOM. ^51 



THE DIISTITSTG^-ROOM. 



It may not be amiss to give a page or two to the observance of formal 
dinners in "society," lest some reader — who may hope, if she becomes the 
rare housekeeper we expect, to be called to give such dinners as the wife of 
a Congressman, Governor, or even as mistress of the White House itself — 
should be taken unawares. In every house, great or small, the Dining Room 
should be as bright, cheerful and cosey as possible, and at the table the mis- 
tress should wear her brightest smile. If there are trials and troubles, do 
not bring them to the table. They impair digestion, and send husband and 
children out to business or school, glum or gloomy, instead of refreshed and* 
strengthened. The plainest room may be made beautiful by taste, and the 
homeliest fare appetizing by neatness and skill. Little attentions to decora- 
tion or pretty arrangement of the table charm the eye and whet the appetite, 
and make the home table powerfully attractive. The every-day observance 
of sensible and simple table manners ought always to be encouraged, because, 
in the long run, it promotes the comfort and the cultivation of the family, 
and takes the pain of embarasssment out of state occasions. Above all, the 
room, the table and its furniture should be scrupulously neat and orderly. 
For formal dinners, a round table, five to seven feet in diameter, is the best 
fitted to display the dinner and its fine wares ; but the extension table, about 
four feet wide and any length desired, is generally used. Atthe round table, 
conversation is, of course, easily made general, the party being small. The 
table cloth must be spotless, and Under-cover of white felt, flannel or baiie 
gives the linen a heavier and finer appearance. A center-piece of floweirs is 
a pretty ornament (some even place upon the table a handsome vase filled 
with growing plants in bloom, or a common flower pot may be thus used, 
covering with a crocheted cover of green zepher made to slip up over the 
crock and tie at the top with cord and tassel. These are very convenient and 
pretty.) but the flowers must be few and rare, and of delicate odors. Fruit 



952 



THE DINING-ROOM. 



in variety and tastefully arranged with green leaves, and surrounded with 
choice dessert-dishes, is always attractive and elegant. It is also a pretty 
custom to place a little bouquet by the side of each lady's plate, and to fold 
a bunch of three or four flowers in the napkin of each gentleman, to be at- 
tached to the left lapel of the coat as soon as seats are taken at the table. 
Napkins, which should never be starched, are folded and laid on the plates, 
with a small piece of bread or a cold roll placed on the top, or half concealed 
by the last fold. Beside each plate are placed as many knives, forks and 
spoons as will be needed in all the courses (unless the lady prefers to have 
them brought with each new plate, which makes more work and confusion), 
and a glass, to be filled with fresh water just before dinner is announced. The 
plates which will be needed are counted out. Such as are to be filled with 
ready-prepared dessert-dishes are filled and set in a convenient place. Dish- 
es that need to be warm, not hot, are left on the top shelf of the range or else- 
where where thej^ will be kept warm until needed. When the soup-tureen 
(with the soup at the boilingpoint) and the soup-ylates are placed before the 
seat of the hostess, dinner may be quietly announced. The host or hostess, has 
of course previously, indicated to each gentleman the lady with whose escort 
he is charged, the guest of honor, if a gentleman, escorting the hostess, and 
taking a seat at her right ; if a lady, being escorted by the host to a seat at his 
right. Each gentleman offers the lady assigned to him his right arm, and 
escorts her to a seat at his left, passing her in front of him to her chair which 
he has gracefully drawn back. The distribution of seats will tax the tact of 
the hostess, as the moment of waiting to be assigned to place is extremely 
awkward. Of course, all should have been decided on beforehand, and the 
l)laces should be designated with as little confusion as possible. Tlie success 
of the dinner will depend largely upon the grouping of agreeable persons. The 
host leads the way to the dining room, the hostess follows last, and all guests 
stand until she is seated. (In France, and at large dinner parties in this 
country, a card with the name of each guest is placed on the plate which is 
intended for him.) Once seated the rest is simply routine. Ease of manner 
of the host and hostes, and quiet and systematic movements of attendants, 
who should be well trained, alert and noisless, but never in a hurry, are in- 
dispensable. Any betrayal of anxiety or embarrassment on the part of the 
former, or blundering by the latter, is a wet blanket to all enjoyment. 

The attendant places each dish in succession before the host or hostess 
(the soup, salad and dessert only being served by the hostess) with the pile 
of i)lates. Each plate is supplied, taken by the attendant on a small salver, 
and set before the guest from the left. Any second dish which belongs to the 
course is presented at the left of the guest, who helps himself. As a rule the 
lady at the right of the host, or the oldest lady, should be served first. As 
soon as one has finished, his plate is i)romptly removed, and when all are 
done, the next course is served in the same way. Before the dessert is brought 
on, all crumbs should be brushed from the cloth. The finger-bowls, which 
are brought in on the napkin on the dessert-plate and setoff to the left of the 



THE DINING-ROOM. 953 



plate, are used by dipping the fingers in lightly and drying them on the nap- 
kin. They should be half full of warm water with a bit of lemon floating in 
it. When all have finished dessert, the hostess gives the signal that dinner 
is ended by pushing back her chair, and the ladies repair to the drawing- 
room, the oldest leading and the youngest following last, and the gentlemen 
repairing to the library or smoking room. In about half an hour, tea is served 
in the drawing-room with a cake-basket of crackers or little cakes, the gentle- 
men join the ladies, and after a little chat over their cups, all are at liberty to 
take leave. 

It is, of course, presupposed that the host carves, and carves well. If he 
does not he should forego the pleasure of inviting his friends to dinner, or the 
dinner should be from chops, ribs, or birds which do not require carving. 

In making up a dinner party, it is all important to know who will accept ; 
and invitations, which may be written or printed, and should be sent by mes- 
senger and never mailed to persons in the same town, should receive a prompt 
reply, a day's delay being the extreme limit. The simplest form of invita- 
tion and reply is best, but both must be formal, this being one of the occasions 
on which the wings of genius must be promptly clipped. Ten minutes be- 
yond the appointed time, is the utmost limit of tardiness admissable in a 
guest, and ten minutes early are quite enough. 

THE HOST AND HOSTESS. 

Those who entertain sUould remember it is vulgar hospitality, exceed- 
ingly annoying to guests, to overload plates, or to insist on a second supply. 
If a guest wants more, he knows that it is a delicate compliment to a dish to 
pass his plate the second time. Too great a variety of dishes is also a coarse 
display. A few cooked to a nicety and served with grace, make the most 
charming dinners. A sensible bill of fare is soup, fish with one vegetable, a 
roast with one or two vegetables and a salad and cheese, and a dessert. Par- 
ties should be made up of congenial jjersons, and the table should never be 
crowded. Novel dishes are great strokes of policy in dinners, but no wise 
housewife will try experiments on new dishes on such an occasion. The carv- 
er should serve meat as he cuts it, so far as possible, and not fill the platter 
with hacked fragments. It is ill-bred to help too abundantly, or to flood food 
with gravies, which are disliked by many. Above all, the plate should be 
served neatly. Nothing creates such disgust as a plate bedaubed with gravy 
or scattered food. It may be taken for granted that every one will take a 
piece of the breast; and after this is served, it is proper to ask, ''What part do 
you prefer ?" The wings and legs should be placed crisp side uppermost, the 
stuffing should not be scattered, and the brown side or edge of slice should 
be kept from contact with vegetables or gravy, so that its delicacy may be 
preserved. Water should be poured at the right hand. Every thing else is 
served at the left. The hostess should continue eating until all guests have 
finished. Individual salt-dishes are used at breakfast, but not at dinner — a 



954 THE DINING-ROOM. 



cruet, with salt dish and spoon, at each end of the table, being preferred as 
giving the table less of a hotel air. The salt dishes should be neatly filled. 
Jellies and sauces are helped on the dinner plate and not on side dishes. If 
there are two dishes of dessert, the host may serve the most substantial one, 
Fruit is served after puddings and pies, and coffee last. In pouring coffee, 
the sugar and cream is placed in the cup first. If milk is used, it should be 
scalding hot. Some prefer to make cofl"ee strong, then weaken it with scald- 
ing hot milk, and pour into cups in which cream and sugar have previously 
been placed. For tea it is better to pour first and then add cream and sugar, 
In winter plates should be warmed, not made hot. 

INDIVIDUAL MANNERS. 

Manners, at table and elsewhere, are made for the convenience and com- 
fort of men, and all social observances have now, or have had at some time, 
a good reason and sound common sense behind them. It must be remem- 
bered, however, that the source of all good manners is a nice perception of, 
and kind consideration for, not only the rights, but the feelings and even the 
whims of others. The customs of society are adoptsd and observed to enable 
us to be more agreeable, or at least not disagreeable, to friends. And nowhere 
is the distinction between the gentleman and the boor more marked than at 
the table. Some persons are morbidly sensitive, and even slight improprie- 
ties create disgust ; and every true gentleman is bound to respect their sensi- 
tiveness and avoid giving pain, whether in sympathy with the feeling or not. 

As this is not an etiquette book, we can only give a few hints. Once 
seated at table, gloves are drawn off and laid in the lap under the napkin, 
which is spread lightly, not tucked in. Raw oysters are eaten with a fork ; 
soup from the side of a spoon without noise, or tipping the plate. The mouth 
should not go to the food, but food to the mouth. Eat without noise and with 
the lips closed. Friends will not care to see how you masticate your food, 
unless they are of a very investigating turn of mind. 'Bread should be broken, 
not cut, and should be eaten by morsels, and not broken into soup or gravy. 
It is iu bad taste to mix food on the plate. Fish must be eaten with the fork. 
Macaroni is cut and cheese crumbed on the plate, and eaten with a fork 
Pastry should be broken and eaten with a fork, never cut with a knife. Game 
and chicken are cut, but never eaten with the bones held in the fingers. Or- 
anges are peeled with out breaking the inner skin, being held meantime on a 
fork. Pears are pared while held by the stem. Cherry-stones, or other sub- 
stances which are to be removed from the mouth, are passed to the napkin 
held to the lips, and then returned to the plate. Salt must be left on the side 
of the plate, and never on the table cloth. Cut with the knife, but never put it 
in the mouth ; the fork must convey the food, and may be held in either hand 
as convenient. (Of course, when the old-fashioned two-tined fork is used, it 
would be absurd to practice this rule.) Food that cannot be held with a fork 
should be eaten with a spoon. Never help yourself to butter or any other 



THE DINING-ROOM. 



955 



food with your own knife or fork. Never pick your teeth at table, or make 
any sound with the mouth in eating. Bread eaten with meat sliould not be 
buttered. Bread and butter is a dish for dessert. Eat slowly for both health 
and manners. Do not lean your arms on the table, or sit too far back, or 
lounge. Pay as little attention as possible to accidents. When asked "what 
do you prefer?" name some part at once. When done, lay your knife and 
fork side by side on the plate, with handles to the right. When you rise from 
your chair leave it where it stands. Of course, loud talking or boisterous 
conduct is entirely out of place at table, where each should appear at his best, 
practicing all he can of the amenities of life, and observing all he knows of 
the forms of good society. 

BREAKFAST PARTIES. 

Breakfast parties are becoming fashionable in cities, because less formal 
and expensive than dinners, and quite as agreeable to guests. The courses, 
which are usually fewer in number, are served precisely as described for din- 
ners. Oatmeal porridge is a favorite and healthful first course, and oranges, 
melons, and all fruits are delicious breakfast dishes. The variety of omelets 
is also a great resource, and hundreds of other delicacies and substantials are 
described elsewhere. But in breakfast — and the same is true of dinners — it 
is better to have a few, a verj'- few, dishes delicately and carefully cooked, 
than to attempt more and have them less perfect. In fact the trouble often 
lies in attempting too many, and the consequent hurry in the kitchen. At 
breakfast, the coffee is set before the mistress, with cups in their saucers in 
front of it, in one or two rows. The meat with plates is set before the mas- 
ter. For an ordinary table one castor in the center is sufficient. Fruit is 
served first ; then oatmeal or cracked wheat, next meat and vegetables, fol- 
lowed by hot cakes and coffee. Meats are covered, and cakes are brought in 
between two plates. Butter is put on in small pats with lumps of ice about 
it. Honey or maple syrup, for cakes or hot biscuits, is served in saucers. A 
breakfast-table may be spread attractively with a white cloth, and a scarlet 
and white napkin under each plate, with white table-mats with a scarlet 
border. 

For evening parties, it is often less expense and trouble to place supper 
in the hands of a regular confectioner, but for small card or literary parties 
the trouble need not be great. For regular reception evenings, ices, cakes 
and chocolate are enough. 

In cases where no "help" is employed it is better to have some one of the 
family wait upon the table, the daughters taking turns in serving, as the 
pleasure of the meal is greatly marred by two or three persons jumping up 
every now and then, for articles needed. 

TABLE OUTFIT. 

In the selection of table wares, there is a wide field for the exercise of 
taste, and those whose purses permit, need not be at a loss to find the most 



956 THE DINING-ROOM. 



elegant and artistic designs. An admirable table outfit is an elegant dessert 
set, all the pieces of which, except the plates, may decorate the table during 
the whole dinner, and the rest of white and gilt china. Some have table- 
ware decorated to match the colors of the dining-room, or sets of different 
patterns for each course, or harlequin sets in which each piece may be of dif- 
ferent pattern or even of different ware. Chineseand Japanese sets are also 
fashionable. In every case, ware should be the best of its kind, and for econ- 
omy's sake should be plain, so that broken pieces may be readily and cheap- 
ly replaced. Light knives and forks, heavy tea-spoons, and thin glasses for 
Avater are most elegant. The chairs should have no arms to interfere with 
ladies' dresses, and to prevent noise the legs should be tipped with rubber. 

CLEARING THE TABLE. 

Gather up the fragments that nothing be lost or wasted. When each meal 
is over, if you do not have a crumb-cloth under the table, which when the 
chairs are removed, can be lifted carefully at the edges and the crumbs shak- 
en into the center, it is best to take a broom and sweep the crumbs lightly 
under the table until the dishes and victuals are removed, then brush on a 
dust pan. To clear the table, bring in a dish-pan, gather up all the silver, 
cups and saucers, butter and sauce plates, and glassware, carry to the kitch- 
en, place them in the sink and return with the pan. Scrape the jDlates as 
clean as possible and put in, odd platters and vegetable dishes, saving all the 
remnants of food that are to be kept, on smaller dishes, to be taken to the 
cellar or refrigerator. To wash the dishes have clear hot water in the pan, 
and first wash the silver without soap or cloth, using only the hands ; if any 
are greasy, wipe with a soft paper before putting in the water, (or with a crust 
of bread and keep it for food for any animal or poultry), rinse in clear hot 
water and wipe off immediately on a perfectly dry, soft, clean towel ; in this 
way the silver is kept bright, and does not get scratched. Add some soap in 
the water, make a suds, wash the glassware, rinse and wipe dry. Next take 
the cups and saucers and so on, leaving those most greasy till the last. Al- 
Avays keep a clean dish-cloth. One lady writes, "I have smelled a whole 
houseful of typhoid fever in one sour, dirty dish-rag. ' ' Many prefer the use of 
three dish-cloths, one for the nicest articles, one for the greasy dishes, and 
one for the pots and kettles, keeping each cloth perfectly sweet and clean, and 
after using, washing, rinsing, and hanging to dry on a small rack kept for 
this purpose. The towel for wiping dishes may also dry here. A dish mop 
or swab for washing small deep articles is convenient. 

Let no one suppose that because she lives in a small house, and dines on 
homely fare, that the general principles here laid down do not apply to her. 
A small house is more easily kept clean than a palace ; taste may be quite as 
well displayed in the arrangement of dishes on a pine table as in grouping 
the silver and china of the rich. Skill in cooking is as readily shown in a baked 
potatoe or a johnny-cake as in a canvas-back duck. The charm of good house- 



THE DINING-ROOM. 



957 



keeping lies in a nice attention to little things, not in superabundance. A 
dirty kitchen and bad cooking have driven many a husband and son, and 
many a daugliter too, from a home that should have been a refuge from temp- 
tation. "Bad dinners go hand in hand with total depravitu ; while a proper- 
ly fed man is already half saved." 

(lAEMSHES. 

(jarnishes should be used as freely as possible in the different dishes, 
making the latter inviting to the eye as well as to the palate. Mutton cutlets, 
for instance, neatly arranged upon the same dish with green pease or toma- 
toes, appear far more attractive than when dished apart from the vegetables. 
Fish, cold meats, fowls, etc., can be charmingly decorated with sprigs of par- 
sley, chopped carrots, and such-like trifles. A shape of blanc-mange in 
a glass dish, surrounded by crimson preserves looks doubly tempting. 

- A roast of beef sur- 
rounded, as illustrat- 
ed, with flowrets of 
cooked califlower al- 
ternated with slices 
of red beet makes a 
handsome dish, and 
the varity of garnishes 
are as many as the in- 
genuity of the cook 
Roast of Beef. ^ay dcvlse. Some of 

the most common for small game are dried toasted bread, slices of 
lemon, parsley and currant jelly ; for larger game, such as wild duck, etc., 
cranberry sauce, apple sauce, sliced lemons or oranges and parsley, and 
for a goose, nothing is nicer than baked apples. For prairie chicken, an 
easily prepared and palatable garnish is slices of fried salt pork. It is 
cooked with the chicken instead of butter or lard, thus giving the latter a 
delicious flaver, while the pork is also flavored with the chicken ; when 
served a slice of pork accompanies a piece of chicken. One should not fail 
to try this dish, as they will find the frying With Salt Pork to be quite an 
addition. A nice garnish for Charlotte Russe or any other cream, is to take 
part of an inch-thick sheet of sponge cake and ice with Cape May Icing made 
as follows ; to the beaten yolk and luhite of one egg, add cup powdered sugar, 
beatiu""- well together; melt in pan over teakettle two or three squares Bak- 
er's chocolate according to strength of flavor liked, add this to above and 
when well mixed, stir in a tablespoon boiling milk. Spread at once ; when 
stiff cut cake in small squares, diamonds or any shape wished and surround 
the cream with them. When serving place one or two squares on each dish. 
Or cover the cake with with the French Icing, page 418, and over it spread 
the above, or a Chocolate Icing, page 416, or either of the Chocolate Caramel 
Icings, page 417; then cut and garnish as above. This latter is called the 




958 THE DINING-ROOM. 



Duplex Icing and either it or the Cape May are delicious for large cakes 
or layer cakes. For more complete directions of different garnishes see 
Garnishes and Sauces, page 975. 

TABLE DECORATIONS. 

The candlesticks, or lamps, dishes, glass, and other necessary articles 
of the table may be placed in line and different positions down the center of 
the table, for a full course six-o'clock dinner. Always study what will look 
well in plate, china and glass in combination with flowers. Good taste 
must be used on this point to avoid bad combinations of color. Huge 
pieces of plate, set on the table merely for show, often destroy the general 
effect of the whole table. They would look far better placed on the side- 
board on a velvet covered dresser. China figures, either to hold flowers or 
as works of art, always look well, and when flowers are scarce are a great 
assistance, as a few flowers can then be arranged so as to give the color and 
life wanted. In the hot days of summer, ice in the form of pyramids cut out 
in handsome shapes, as ice palaces and different designs, are sometimes in- 
troduced to give coolness and freshness to the dinner-table. The pyramid 
may be surrounded by fern-leaves, cut flowers, and sometimes it is placed 
on a large (mirror) glass plaque, and with the light reflected from that mir- 
ror on to the ice, a brilliant effect is produced. Much caution as to providing 
drainage must be used, as the melted water is apt to overflow on the tal^le- 
cloth. A pretty arrangment for a table of twelve or fourteen are flowers in 
a narrow crystal tray, arranged in form of a St. Andrew's cross, placed in cen- 
ter of table, gilt candlesticks at each end, and down through the centre, 
lengthwise of the table, a wide strip ot red plush trimmed on its edges with 
smilax and cut flowers, and at the four corners of table, semi-circular trays 
filled with the same flowers ; or in hunting season, a gilt ornament of hunt- 
ers and dogs standing by tree, toi> of tree filled with fruits and flowers, gilt 
candlesticks each side of this centre, with smi]ax running from centre to 
each corner and looped all around the cloth ; china ornament at the head of 
table, camp fire and colored caraffes with clusters of glasses around them, a 
half dozen or more cut glasses of diflerent heights filled with bright bunches 
of mountain ash ben'ies ; at the left of the centre a large block of ice sur- 
rounded by wreaths of water-lilies. This piece of ice should be frozen for 
the occasion and filled with small fish and mounted on a large silver stand, 
which is a l^oat with fishing j'ods and guns. 

STAND-UP SUPPERS. 

Suitable refreshments for a supper buflet on occasions sue as recept- 
ions, after-dinner routs, ball parties, etc., where a supper, on conventional 
lines, may be dispensed with. Beef, ham and tongue sandwiches, lobster 
ard oyster patties, sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the 
latter all cut up, dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef and galantine 
• of veal ; various jellies, blanc-manges and creams ; custards in glasses, com- 
potes of fruit, tartlets of jam and several dishes of small fancy pastry ; dishes 
of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or three sponge cakes, a few plates 
of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented with vases of fresh or artiflcial flowers. 
The above dishes are quite sufficient for a standing supper. Where more are 
desired, a supper must then be laid and served iu the usual manner. 



HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 959 



IIO^W TO G-IVE A DusnsrEn. 



An ovJil table, as give;i in diagram, appears to be the most sociable ; and 
although it is against all precedent, the host and hostess should sit at the two 
sides of the table instead of the two ends, although in diagram it is arranged 
for the two ends. Sitting at the sides of the table the host and hostess are 
nearer their guests, and are better able to enjoy their society and to entertain 
them. No pains should be sptared to have the most comfortable chairs. Un- 
der each chair should be placed a stool or hassock for ladies, or for such as 
may require it. The table linen should be nicely laundried. The table-cloth 
should not over-lap the table so much as to be in the way of the guests. If 
napkhis are too stiff they cannot be folded well nor used with comfort. Under 
the cloth there should be a thick piece of belt or green baize the exact size 
of the table. When carving is to be done on the table a large napkin should 
be phiced before the carver to be removed in case of accidents. It is also ad- 
visable to have a supply of napkins at hand to use in case the table cloth is soiled 
during dinner. The use of mats on the table is to be deprecated, as the thick 
baize shoidd protect the table from the heat of the dishes. The better way is 
to put dishes on the table without covers, and thus avoid a puff of fast con- 
densing vapor in the faces of the guests. In first class dinners the soup tu- 
reen fs not placed on the table, but soup is served from it from the side-board. 
The soup having been disposed of, the fish is brought to the table, and served 
by the host or hostess. On the removal of fish, four entrees judiciously select- 
ed, and each a complete dish in itself, are handed round; or two are placed 
on the table one at each end, and the other two handed round. When guests 
have nearly finished these two relieves ov pieces de resistance are placed on the 
table one at each end, and each likewise a complete dish in itself. They in 
turn give place to a couple of roasts or roast and boiled, or poultry, or game, 
and two or more entrements should be served with it. Then comes the des- 
sert. A reference to diagrams will further illustrate this. The above bill of 
fare is only given in the way of suggestion. Six courses may be made of it, or 
four as preferred. It is proper to hand around salad with roasts of all kinds, 



960 HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 

or with plain boiled or fried fish. If game or poultry do not figure in the bill 
of fare, one of the relieves should be a roast, and the entrements should be served 
with it. Cheese should not be placed on the table, but handed around cut 
in thin slices. It should be eaten before the entrements prepared as some fancy 
dish, or if served in natural state, use Parmesan cream or some first class 
cheese. The reason of the English custom of eating cheese after dessert lies 
in the declining fashion of wine drinking after dinner. In France cheese is 
always served with the dessert. In hot weather all drinks should be cooled ; 
this should be done from without, except water, in which a lump of ice is not 
disagreeable. The lady of the house should see that the appearance of the 
dessert is such that each dish, the fruit especially, should, with the help of 
flowers and leaves, be made into an elegant ornament. Fern leaves are well 
adapted for this purpose. It is most artistic to use, when practicable, the 
leaves of the fruit used on the table. Artificial leaves should never be em- 
ployed. No fruits or confectionery, should apjDear accept such as are good to 
eat. Canned fruits and the many colored productions of the confectioner 
should always be of the best and purest. There is no limit to the number of 
dishes which go to form dessert but it is better to have too little than to have 
inferior kinds or damaged fruit on the table. A dish of dry biscuit and one 
of olives should never be omitted, but the latter should be served in water and 
not in the liquid they are preserved in. The position of each dish is impor- 
tant. These should be arranged rightly, both for the efi'ect and appearance 
and also so as to be accessible to the guests. The dessert should be kept 
dished up in an adjoining room or if necessary in warm weather in a cool 
place to be brought in when wanted. Except when dessert is to be handed 
round, guests prefer to help themselves and to be free from the presence of 
waiters. Use water in the finger glasses perfumed with a feAv drops of rose 
water or lavender. 

CofTee as bright as well decantered wine is the proper conclusion of every 
dinner. The plate, the dinner, the dessert service, the glass, etc., goagreat 
way towards making the dinner table look jjretty and inviting. The most fash- 
ionable dinner service is of plain Avhite with a small fillet of gold and the arms 
or crest and motto of the owner printed on the flat rim of the plates and dish- 
es. The glass should also be engraved with the small heraldic device. Des- 
sert service made entirely of glass are sometimes used and has a pretty effect. 
One thing not to be forgotten is to be sure and have good bread ; if you do not, 
procure rolls from your baker. 

INSTRUCTIONS TO WAITERS. 

1. In the " demi-Eusse" dinner here given, the joints or dishes are to be 
carved before placing before the person serving them. 

2. The person serving fills the plates according to the preference of each 
guest. The waiter then hands the plate, and if vegetables or sauce accompa- 
nies the dish, will also hand these to the guest at the same time he does the 
plate, unless a second waiter does this. 



HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 961 

3. If waiter is asked for tea, coffee or chocolate, he will furnish these 
from sideboard. If asked for water, he will take it from pitcher on table. 

4. The waiter will see that the proper number of plates are placed be- 
fore server for each separate dish of the course. 

5. No plates are placed on table for this style of dinner. Only a napkin 
with a roll or square of bread in its place where the plate would be. Also 
two knives, one large, one small, and two forks and a spoon, also glass for 
water. (See diagram.) 

6. Furnish both ends of the table alike, and, in addition to the service 
placed for each guest, furnish a carving knife, and fork, a fish slice and prong. 
Also furnish a gravy spoon with each fresh dish placed at the ends of the table, 

7. If two kinds of soup or in case where any two dishes are to be served, 
place one at each end of the table. If there are three or four entrees, place 
the two leading ones at ends of the table, and hand around the others. 

8. Always hand the sauce for each particular dish to the guest partaking 
of that dish. 

9. If asked for the pepper or anything else from the cruet or castor, 
hand the cruet or castor entire to the guest. 

10. If asked for any condiment such as French mustard, olive, chow- 
chow, etc., etc., hand bottle, if in abottle, or glass, if inaglass, to theguest, 
with the prong or fork, and let the guest serve himself, then place back where 
it was on the table. 

11. Be on the alert, and in case of accident, hand your napkin to the 
guest, if necessary remove his plate, remedy the trouble as soon as possible, 
lay down a mat on the soiled cloth, and replenish with knives and forks, nap- 
kin, etc., and procure the guest a fresh supply of what he was eating. 

12. When you place dessert on the table, place a dessert plate, dessert 
knife and fork, also spoon, to each plate. Eemember also the finger bowl. 

13. If ice-cream is served, serve it independent of the head of the table 
as his work is through with the first courses. The usual form of ice cream 
now is bricks, or individual forms as described in Ices and Ice-cream. 

14. When dessert is half through, hand the menu, or bill of fare to each 
guest, calling his attention to the ice-cream. Take his order and fill it. 

15. If any guest has already ordered ice-cream, do not offer the bill of 
fare to him 

16. If itis decided to have boquets, called a "boutonniere," for the guests 
then place one in a glass or silver holder by the plate of each lady and gen- 
tleman, unless, as is sometimes the case, those for the gentlemen are placed 
on the napkins without a holder. 

17. If salad accompanies any dish — a salad is always in order — hand it 
around to each guest. 

18. The host sits at the head of the table ; the hostess opposite him at 
the other end of the table. 



962 HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 



19. The soup is always placed before the hostess, and if the salad is 
placed on the table, that is also placed before her, and any portion of the 
dessert she may desire to serve, and is handed from her to the guests. 

20. The waiter will remove each person's plate as soon as he has finished. 

21. Be quick, j^et do not appear in a hurry. Waiters should not speak 
to each other unless it is positively necessarj'. 

22. The proper dress for a waiter is a dark dress coat and trowsers, white 
vest and neck-tie. A waitress should wear a dark dress with white apron and 
cap. Both should wear light slippers or boots, and make as little noise as 
possible. 

2;>. If menus or bills of fare are used, place one at each plate. 

24. If you have to lay a table for dinner a la Russe, the dessert is always 
placed on the table first, and should be placed tastefully around the center 
of flowers. Note diagram for demi-Russe dinner ; the dessert is placed round 
the edge of the table, that is if the hostess desires to have it thus placed. In 
a dinner a la Russe, the joints or dishes are brought in one at a time and 
carved by the host, and as he carves each plate, the waiter hands it on a. sil- 
ver tray. In the demi-Russe, the joints are carved before being placed before 
the server. (See diagrams.) In some dinners the joints or dishes are carved 
and handed to the guests for them to help themselves. In this case each 
guest must be furnished with a plate which of course must be placed — with 
napkin and roll on it — when the cloth is laid. The waiters should confer with 
the cook and the cook with the housekeeper or hostess, and have all these 
points settled beforehand. If there is a butler it devolves on him to see all 
these points settled and to instruct his assistants. Sometimes the host or 
hostess will direct each guest to his seat, sometimes the butler will do it, and 
sometimes the waiters. 

SUMMER BREAKFAST FOR TEN. (TWO RESERVED PLATES.) 

First Course, Melon. — "When table is laid (see diagram) guests enter and 
take seats. Waiters place tea and coffee urns and bring melon. The gentle- 
men serving asks each guest if he will be helped to melon. If the answer be 
yes, waiter receives plate from server and hands to guest, exchanging plates 
and returning empty plate to server, who places melon on it for another guest 
and so on. As soon as all are served, or have refused a second helping, the 
waiter removes the remains of the melon, and replaces it with dish for second 
course. The lady at the head of the table asks each guest to partake of tea, 
coffee, or chocolate. If any accept, waiter receives it and hands to guest. Ask- 
ing guests to take tea, etc., in first course, is a mere matter of form, as it is 
seldom taken until second course. Still the question must be asked, and 
waiter ready to serve it. 

Second Course. — In the place of melon a dish of fish— fried perch, smelts, 
trout, or whatever is selected. Tartare Sauce is a proper accompaniment. 
Decorate dish of fish with shrimps or olives cut in half, or with little bunches 



HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 963 



of parsley with shrimp placed on it. Waiters also remove first set of des- 
sert plates used for melon, and replace with a size larger, medium breakfast 
plates. The waiter then receives a supply of fish from the person who serves 
it, hands to the guests, receiving empty plates, and helping guests to what 
accompaninments they desire. Another waiter asks if guest will take coffee 
or tea, and supplies it from party serving it. Potatoes are handed round 
(with either meat or fish.) If two kinds, present one in each hand for guest 
to help himself. 

Third Course. — Young chicken sauced with cream gravy ;, surrounded 
with potatoes a la neige. Waiter remove fish of second course, and replace 
with young chicken, then attends to wants of guests as in second course, re- 
membering to ask each if he will take tea or coffee ; also asking each if he will 
take his tea or coffee warmer. Clean plates same size as second course, must 
be supplied for each guest. 

Fourth Course. — Poached eggs outcast, or anchovy toast. Waiter removes 
chicken and replaces it with dish of poached eggs, and furnishes clean plates. 
Party serving asks each guest if he can help him, and waiters serve as in the 
other cases. Lady dispensing tea or coffee asks guests if they will be helped 
to warmer tea or coffee. If any one accepts, waiter hands clean cup and sau- 
cer from the sideboard to the lady serving and then hands it to the guest. 
If milk is asked for he procures from the sideboard and hands to the guest. 
AVaiter also watches the guests and supplies them with hot cakes, receiving 
a dish of hot ones for that purpose every five minutes, handing dish of cakes 
to guest who helps himself. 

Fifth Course.— Little fillets of porter house steak with tomatoes a la ma- 
yonnaise. Waiter puts on steak in place of plate of poached eggs, and caters 
to wants of guests as before. While guests are eating this course, the wait- 
ers, or an extra waiter, as quietly as possible relieve the table of the castor, 
pickles, sauces, dressing and butter. But not till the last moment must this 
be done, at the same time asking guests if they require more. The dessert, 
or rather fruit, sixth course, is then brought in and placed where the steak 
was, arranging as quickly as possible, the service remaining on the table in 
neat order, removing each guest's plate, and again furnish dessert plates. 
At a signal from lady at head of table, the waiter hands around fruit to 
guests, each guest supplying himself, unless the person before serving the 
other dishes, serves this, in which case waiter supplies each as before. Wait- 
er also supplies each guest with tea or coffee, and hands around cake, bis- 
cuit, etc. At this course a finger glass should be supplied to each guest. 

Sixth Course.— Peaches quartered, sweetened or half frozen or any fruit 
decided upon. Carry our the instructions given in the fifth course. In some 
breakfasts order is reversed, and fruit is served in first course onlv. In this 
case various fruits are placed on table, and allowed to remain till end of 
breakfast so that guests may partake at any time. In first class breakfasts 
fruit forms the first and last course, but waiters should be instructed before- 
hand, which plan is to be followed. 



964 HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 



INSTRUCTIONS TO WAITERS. 

First, air breakfast room well. See that everything has been dusted. 
Next lay cloth — whatever color and style is fashionable — and see that it is 
free from wrinkles and creases. See that all articles for table are perfectly 
clean. Place cruets, castors, sauces, salts, spoon, sugar, syrup and every- 
thing that will not hurt to stand a while, in proper position on table. (See 
diagram.) Then a few minutes before calling breakfast, add cake, sweet bis- 
cuit, muffins, etc. Just before guests begin to come, add flowers and salad. 
Note position of tea tray containing tea cups, also urns. Note also plate at 
head, which will show you what cutlery and plate to put near that plate. 
Place a glass for each plate for water. Place the plates bottom up with nap- 
kin on the top of each, At end of table where dishes are served, (see diagram 
for melon,) place plate, cutlery and glasses for other guests, also carver and 
carving fork and knife rest, also a fish trowel, also a few reserve plates. In 
event of an accident thej^ are handy. If any guest requires bread, supply it 
from sideboard. A small roll should be placed in each guest's napkin. If 
this is not done, place two plates of rolls on table, or pass a dish of rolls. If 
any one requires a second roll he asks for it. In no case place napkins in 
glasses, but on plates whether rolls are in them or not. As soon as guests 
are seated, ask if they prefer milk or water. If water, fill from the water 
jug. If milk, fill from the milk pitcher. Both jug and pitcher are kept on 
sieeboard. It is necessary to have a waiter or some one at head to see that 
all table appointments are correct, and that other waiters discharge their du- 
ties. It is also necessary to have some party outside breakfast room, to whom 
inside waiters may hand removes from table and from whom anything may 
be received for table. "Waiters should be as quiet as possible and always 
should go to left of guest. There should be an understanding beforehand be- 
tween cook, waiters and lady of the house, so that each may know what is 
coming next, and how to manage. It is a head waiter's place to see that salt 
is dry and free from lumps, that castors are in good condition, and that oil, 
mustard, and salad dressing are fresh, etc. For further instructions refer to 
diagram, and explanation of courses, and articles on dinners and breakfasts. 
It is best to place two or three extra cups and saucers in tray to use in an 
emergency. The sugar, milk and cream should be placed before hostess if 
she is to dispense them, or she may simply dispense tea and coffee, in which 
case the sugar and cream should be passed by waiters, or put within reach 
so that guests may help themselves. Chocolate will be served from side- 
boards, if at all, and sugar and cream handed with it for those who wish. 

Remember the diagram is given only to show the lay of the table, num- 
ber of dishes, also their nature, but these may be changed to suit. This does 
not show separate courses, but in case you wish to serve in courses, proceed 
as for dinner, observing the same rules. Lunches are similar to dinners ; 
dishes are less in number, and not of nature to require much carving. It is 
usual to have a larger variety of pastries, fruits and confections than for 



HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 965 

dinner. In fact some lunches consist of sweets only. In winter lunch dia- 
gram two spaces are left (Fig. 2 and 17) to be filled in with anything choice in 
the way of preserved fruits, fruit jelly, etc. In summer lunch No. 13, 14, 15 
and 16, are for same purpose, fruit being more plentiful then. 

From the others it is easy to make up supper. These differ so, it is diffi- 
cult to lay down a plan, as some make them a late dinner, some dinner and 
supper. To lay supper is an easy thing. ' The pages of this book tell how to 
provide a good supper whether for family or for party. In lunches the plan 
known as demi-Russe has been adopted, a compromise between the entire 
Russian, and the old-fashioned English plan of placing every d;shupon the 
table. The diagram calls for two carvers as servers, one at head and one at 
foot of table , that is to say if dishes are carved by persons sitting at these places. 
Place the dishes before them whole, tastefully garnished. If dishes are first 
carved and then placed before them, they will simply serve them. In either 
3ase place plates as shown in diagram, and as fast as each plate is supplied 
let waiter hand to each guest. Carving knife and fork must be placed on 
table to serve with, to be ready in case carving is imperfectly done. In case 
3ook or mistress wishes to display her skill in dishing up, garnishing dish, 
whatever it may be, waiter locates it in proper place on table, and while 
3ompany are engaged in talking, quietly removes it to sideboard, and quickly 
and deftly carves it, garnishing as well as time will allow, then replace in its 
Driginal place. Another plan is to carve, arrange nicely on the dish, and then 
garnish tastefully, and place before carver or server. If tea, coffee or choco- 
late are included in lunch, serve from sideboard. Waiters generally have less 
to do at lunch than at dinner because guests are under less constraint and of- 
tener help each other. 

WHAT ARE PROPER DISHES FOR EACH COURSE. 

I. Five small raw oysters (on the deep shell, so as to retain the liquor; 
just before dinner, and put at each plate before the dining room is opened. 
A colored doiley may be put under them on each plate. If oysters are not in 
season, substitute small round clams. If weather is quite warm, let them 
rest on each plate in a bed of cracked ice. In either case quarter of a lemon, 
on each plate. With clams, red pepper within reach. 

II. After fish, either patties, bits of roast, each supporting a single se- 
lected mushroom and saturated with brown sauce, or some similar trifle. 
Whatever is used, let but one be put on each plate, and before the plates are 
handed. 

III. If you have more than one meat, let the first be relatively substan- 
tial, and the second ol a lighter character. For instance — a^fZefof beef might 
be followed by chicken croquettes, or a boiled turkey, (which is never really 
good without oyster sauce, ) by mutton chops with almond paste. Other things, 
even, let a roast preceed a boil, hut put the heavier thing first. 

IV. After meats, entrees, such as croquettes, calves' brain, deviled kid- 
neys, oysters, fried or boiled, etc. 



966 HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. \ 

V. With game, jelly; though true epicures don't take it. The salad is 
frequently served with game, though for those who wish both jelly and salad, 
this is awkward, if jelly be served. 

VI. After salad, cheese, either one of medium strength, or two kinds — 
one pungent, one mild. The waiter had best hand both kinds together (pre- 
viously cut up) for the company to choose. With this, hard crackers. 

VII. If you elaborate your dessert let the order be ; pastry or pudding, 
ices, fruits, nuts, and raisins, bon-bons. 

VIII. Black coffee in small cups. Sugar (in lumps) to be passed separate- 
ly. This is quite frequently reserved till the ladies have left the table and 
served to them in the parlor, and to the gentlemen in the dining-room. 

GENERAL HINTS. 

Never let two kinds of animal food or two kinds of pastry be eaten from 
the same plate ; make a fresh course of each. 

Cards on plates, bearing the names of company, so as to seat them with 
reference to congeniality, are very important. For host or hostess to mar- 
shal them after they are in the dining-room is not nearly so easy as for them 
to marshal themselves by the cards, and the host and hostess are sure, in the 
confusion of the moment, to get people placed exactly as they did not intend 
to have them. 

Cut pieces of bread about four inches long, two wide and two thick, and 
always place a piece beside each plate in setting the table. 

Finger bowls are to be passed after pastry on plates with doileys between 
the plates and the bowls. The plates are to be used for fruits and nuts, if 
there are any. If none are handed, the finger bowl will not be taken from 
the plate. The finger bowl should be filled about one-third, contain a slice 
of lemon, and in very warm weather, a bit of ice. 

It is well to have a dish, at one side, independent of any that may oe on 
the table, with grapes cut into small bunches, and oranges and large fruits 
halved. If fruit decorating the table is to be used, let it be removed and pre- 
pared before it is passed. 

Avoid cane seats in a dining room. Where fine fabrics and laces are 
kept on them so long a time continuously (longer than anywhere else) they 
nlay havoc. 

One plate should be at each seat. The raw oysters or clams, on a separ- 
ate plate, are placed on the first plate. So with the soup. The first plate is 
exchanged for the plate with the fish. Always have a stock of plates in re- 
serve sufficient for all the courses and properly warmed. The most decorated 
plates are best enjoyed about the time of salad or cheese and at dessert. 

It saves the waiter's time to start with at least two each of forks, knives 
and teaspoons by each plate. It is not bad to have three, One knife should 
be of silver, for the fish. Silver knives are, of course, essential for fruit. 

Napkins are never supposed to appear a second time without washing. 
Hence napkin rings are domestic secrets and not for companj'. 



HOW TO GIVE A DINNER. 967 

Always change knives and forks, or spoons with plates. As before stated 
it is well to start with two or three relays of implements by the plates. 

Don't have over two vegetables with a course. Let them be offered to- 
gether on the same waiter. At a large dinner you can have two varieties of 
the same course, i. e., two soups, two fish, two meats, etc., letting the waiter 
offer the guest a plate of each at the same time, the guest choosing between 
them. 

Everybody is always out of bread ; prevent it if you can. 

One good waiter is worth much more than two poor ones. 

Two hours is long enough to serve any dinner that Christians ought to 
eat ; three hours and a half is too long. 

The host goes in first with the lady whom he seats at his right. The 
hostess goes in last with the gentleman whom she places at her right. 

The worst torture that survives the inquisition is a had formal dinner. A 
worse torture than any known to the inquisition is any formal dinner (the 
better the dinner, the worse the torture) inefficiently served. 



!»n,s 




T,„,. , . ^ ,„ DINNER OF FIVE COURSES. 

Joi ten persons, with 12 covers laid, two extra covers are for accidental guests. 

T -P^ /I . , . FIRST COURSE— SOUP. 6 c la. 

I C^LjSy!M^?^ft^o^^?4ets. t Fordessertorfancypieces. 

1 1;°;: 1^«sert or fancy pieces. 8. Chutney, 

t J*oi flf?h.sert or fancy pieces. 9 Wt)rcestershirfl Rnnop 

°Wn"n%'i'r.s^ftrhr'^- ..• ^- KrcSe1sfn"d!oda crackers 
t4iaferbouv''e'n ?h^e emcY^^^^^ ^^^ '3.^'^"^°^ kinds should 
host, and still another at rSh^^^^ ^^^""^ ""V^^ "S*^' «f the 
lUaced near the glass of '^\fel (ieerg^^amlA^SrpllKUlf i^Lt^^^ '*°^' ^"^ 




DINNER— DESSEKT, 

, „ , FIFTH COURSE. 

1- Cake. 5. Nuts. 

2- Jelly. 6. Raisins. 
i Cuf custard. l f°° J>o^« ^nd confectionery. 

.W. Crystallized fruits. 14. Here might be puddings to be hande'd ronnd'from the tabl*. 
V-eBJeJhgure to be flowers or sugar oruameui or pyramid. 



Pastry. 
Spoons. 
Nut Crackers. 
Blanc Mange. 




1. 


Soft shell crabs. 7. 


2. 


Froxcn peaches or fruits. S. 


8. 


Pickles. 9. 


4. 


Cruet. - 10. 


5. 


Jce cream. U. 


e. 


Koast lamh 12. 



SUMMKli LUNCH. 

FOB S COVEES. 

Brown bread. 
White bread. 
Cakes. 
Candies. 
Faucy biscuit. 
Chocolate bou buns. 
Ju tlic ceuter— llowcrs, 



1.3. -1 

14. l^Fruit or what else 

15. I you may clioose. 

16. J 

17. Green pease. 

18. Fried Egg plant. 




1. Vegetable salad. 

2. Preserved fruit, fniit jelly, etc, 

3. Oyster salad. 
A. Potato puffs, 

5. Small fancy cakes. 

6. Cruet. 

7. Bon bons. 

8. Baked Sweet potatoes. 

9. Bread, 



WINTER LUNCH. 

FOB S COVERS. 

10. Brown bread 



11. Macaroni v/ith tomato sauce. 

12. wuts. 

13. Pickles. 

14. Preserved fruits. 
1.5 Charlotte russe. 

16. Cabinet pudding with cream sauce. 

17. Preserved fruit, fruit jelly, ete. 

18. Braised beef. 



IlfiwerB in tlia center 



972 



DINING-ROOM DOTS. 



DlNIlSra-ROOM DOTS. 




Fancy Wood Table Mats.— There are three sizes of table mats, made of 
stripes of liglit and darii wood, alternating, and fastened to strong felt cloth. 
When not in use they may be rolled up into a very small compass. The wood 
is very highly polished, and the effect is very pretty. They are very cheap, 
durable and decidedly ornamental. 

Place for Extension Leaves. — In arranging a sink in the butler's pantry or 
enina closet, the bottom part of it may be utilized for the leaves from an'ex- 
tension table, thus saving room and having them easy of access also. 

Crumb Brush and Pan. — The cut repre- 
sents a very neat and convenient crumb 
brush and pan for cleaning the table of 
crumbs after each course. A neat table is 
one of the accompaniments of a good dinner, 
and the debris of one course should be re- 
moved before the next makes its appear- 
ance. The curved form of the brush makes it easy to gather up the crumbs 
and sweep them into the pan. 

Closets for Bread and Cake Box. — Under the serving board placed at side 
of china closet a nice cupboard may be made for the bread and cake box, 
and with the small board used for cutting bread etc., placed on top of the box 

^^ ^aaiM— .-=ai— ^UJLi. ^"^^ ^^^ bread knife in a little drawer un- 

' — ■— ~"^^^HHi^^^^^ ^Q served very easily. 

Knife and Spoon Box. — Knives and spoons 
ought to be daily counted and put away in box 
kept for the purpose. The cut represents a 
strong box, made of tin japanned on the out- 
side, an apartment on one side for knives and 
forks and on the other for spoons. The lids fit 
closely and are held in place by a hasp. This in- 
sures their keeping dry and free from dust, a matter of considerable import- 
ance to the tidy housewife. 

A Convenient Crumb Cloth. — An easy way of having a crumb cloth is to 
take two widths of the wide heavy striped linen, work button holes on one 
side of the width, and place buttons on one side of the other width to corres- 




DINING-ROOM DOTS. 



973 




pond with the holes ; then the widths can be placed under the table one at a 
time and buttoned down the center. Made in this way one can easih' handle 
it alone, lifting one leg of the tal)le and slipping the width under and so on, 
making it unnecessary to lift whole table at once; or a cloth can be made in 
shape of a holbjw square and buttoned on one corner and slip in in same way. 

Dish Warmer — This engrav- 
ing represents a dish-warmer 
made of wire with feet so arrang- 
ed that it may be set on a stove. 
Notliing spoils a good breakfast 
or dinner so efteotually as cold 
plates, but when placed in the 
oven to heat they are verj' likely 
to be left too long, and get too hot 
or if fine wares, are ruined l>y 
overheating. With this heater 
there is no danger of over heating, or injury. This may also be used as a 
dish drainer, and is equal to the best made especially for the purpose. 

Tea-table Ornament. — Two goblets, or any pretty glass dishes, heaped 
with lum])s of ice, with a border of geranium or anj^ green leaves, make a nice 
decoration for the ends of the table. 

Inexpensive Napkin Rings. — Cut piece of canvas size of napkin ring, only 
larger, so that when stitched together one end may overlap the other, and be cut 
in points or scollops. Work canvas witli beads, worsted or silk, as fancy may 
dictate, leaving space for first name or initials. Line canvas with silk-covered 
cardboard and bind edges with bright ribbon to harmonize with embroidery. 

Paper Cases. — These are very much used now for Cheese Ramakins, Bis. 
cult Glaces, Charlottes, Souffles, Ice-creams, etc., and are either round or 
square. Make the round ones as follows : Procure half a dozen sheets of cap 
or line book paper not ruled, and make a pattern for the paper cases by fitting 
a band of paper to the outside of a very small tumbler, such as is used for 
Roman punch, or some similar small shape. The band of paper, when cut 
to fit, will form a curve. Cut as many such pieces as are needed from the 
sheets, fringe a quarter of an inch or less in 
depth. Make some corn starch paste very 
stiff", and paste the ends of the bands togeth- 
er, foi'mingcup shapes, then cut around the 
edges, press the fringed bottom edges of the 
cup on the paste, the fringe bent outward, 
and the cups, when dry, are ready for use. 
For the square ones cut paper on the eight 
dark lines, then crease on every dotted line. 
At each end turn parts lettered A over that 
lettered B, so that the lines c rest on the 
line d, and one A overlaps the other. Now 
fold parts b up against backs of part A, and 
fold inward those parts of edges which are 
lightly shaded, and fold outward those which 

are heavily shaded. When this is finished s.,uare Papir c- - 

stick the parts of the box together with white of an egg mixed with a little 
flour. This makes a perfect box, and with a little practice one may become 
quite an adept. By tracing a copy of diagram one obtains a good model one 
quarter of size case should be. 

Dustlcss Side-board. — Where one does not care for any fancy display of 
silverware and china, the best arrangement for a side-board is one I milt in 



BQ 



122 



974 DINING-ROOM DOTS. 



side of dining room, with the upper part divided off into divisions, some with 
shelves and some without according to the height of articles to be put away, 
and each enclosed with a glass door. In this way the silver makes a 
prettjf ornament for the room and yet is protected from dust. The back of 
divisions, or little cupboards, may be lined with canton flannel of any color 
desired. The lower part of sideboard will be utilized for the china, having 
little cupboards with shelves according to heighth of dishes, and wooden 
doors. Between upper and lower cupboard can be drawers for the small sil- 
ver, and it is nice for spoons, knives and forks that do not come in boxes to 
have some of the drawers made as a Handy Draiuer in the following manner ; 
have them two and a half or three inches deep and about a foot and a half 
wide ; cut a heavy pasteboard to fit inside and on it glue wooden strips made 
as in boughten boxes with grooves for the two ends of knives to fit in, also a 
single strip for table spoons, forks, etc., having in one drawer two strips for 
knives and one for teaspoons ; in another tw(5 single strips for tablespoons ; in 
another two for forks, etc. Cut a piece of colored canton flannel, allowing 
for the amount that will be taken up, when fitted into the grooves, and place 
over the pasteboard, having first covered the wooden strips with glue, then 
press the flannel well into each groove and place the article intended for each 
place in it, letting it remain there till it ts dry. Proceed in this way till all 
are fiaisbed and whea dry put them in their'places. 



©ARNISHES AND SAUCES. 975 



G^ARNISHES AISTD SAUCES. 



To garnish a dish well, adds very much to its appearance apd the most 
simple dish" can be made to appear much more appetizing when served, if 
surrounded by bits of parsley, or other green, or slices of eggs, pickles or 
vegetables. The time taken to garnish is only a moment or two if the gar- 
nish be a simple one, which should be the kind to use for every day, and one 
will be well repaid for so doing. Of course a more elaborate garnish takes 
longer time in its preparation. Care must always be exercised in regard to 
the quantity used, as a t6o heavy garnishing really spoils the appearance of 
the dish. When vegetables are used for the garnishing the garnishing knife 
■g^ flutes them nicely, adding much to their appear- 
ance. There are different ways of garnishing, but 
the general method is to surround the article and rn giving the garnishes, 
unless otherwise mentioned, that is what is meant . The article is sometimes 
placed on a bed of the garnish and sometimes around a 
mound of the latter, as illustrated, the chops surround- 
ing a mound of potatoes. In serving meats, game, etc., s^^ ^^^^^ 
it is also very essential to have an appropriate sauce or chops and Potatoes. 
gravy which will enhance the flavor of the article served, and we give below 
sucn garnishes and sauces as have been used by different cooks very success- 
fully, and one can select such as they wish or can prepare most easily. We 
also give some ways of preparing some of the garnishes although most of 
them are given in the first part of book. 

GARNISHES FOR CREAMS, ETC. 

For Bavarian Creams. — Whipped cream. 

For Blanc Mange. — Boiled custard. 

For Lemon Jelly. — Parsley or smilax with a few forget-me-nots. 

For Ice-cream. Whipped cream ; a meringue or a spray or two of smi- 
lax with some delicate roses. 

For Orange Jelly. — Parsley, smilax or myrtle with garden pinks. 




976 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 

For Coffee Jelly. — Some green with bright red geraniums or roses. 

For Dishes of Fruit. — Geranium leaves ; rose leaves ; holly leaves and 
berries, artificial leaves may be used butnatural leaves are much preferred. 
Where it is possible it is nice to have the leaves of the fruit, as of apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, etc. 

GARNISHES FOR FISH. 

For Eels. — Croutons ; fried parsley. 

For Boiled Cod. — Croutons ; potato patties. 

For Haddock. — Parsley and slices of lemon alternated. 

For Baked Fish. — Sliced hard boiled eggs, or egg pyramid. 

For Boiled White Fish. — Spoonfuls of grated horse-radish or potato balls. 

For Boiled Fish. — Slices of lemon. 

For Fried Fish. — Parsleys, celery, or lettuce. 

GARNISHES FOR MEATS. 

Boiled Bacon. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or brussels sprouts ; or place 
on a bed of boiled beans. 

For Boiled Beef. — Sliced cooked carrots, or turnips, whole glaced onions. 
Corned Beef (hot or cold) the same, or parsley, or the tender inside leaves of 
lettuce. 

For Broiled Beefsteak. — Ringed potatoes, squares of fried mush, sliced 
cucumbers, grated horse-radish, or place a poached egg on each piece. 

For Fried Cold Corned Beef. — Pickled gherkins. 

For Minced Beef {or any meats.) — Croutons. 

For Roast Beef. — Pieces of asparagus ; potato balls ; glazed onions ; or tufts 
of scraped horse-radish. 

For Stewed Beef. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or braised cabbage ; force- 
meat or potato balls. 

For Boiled Tongue, hot or cold. — Potato roses ; tufts of parsley and garnish 
the root with a paper frill . 

For Meat Hash. — Pickled cucumbers sliced in inch slices crosswise ; crou- 
tons or poached eggs. For White Meat Hash, fried oysters, or slices of lemon. 
Game Hash, chopped sweet herbs. 

For Baked Ham. — Border of beans and garnish knuckle with a paper frill. 

For Boiled Ham. — Aspic jelly ; parsley, or flowers cut from vegetables. 

For Broiled Ham. — Poached eggs. 

For Fried Ham. — Fried eggs. 

For Breast of Lamb. — Cooked green pease around or under it. 

For Boiled Leg of Lamb. — Cooked cauliflower or spinach. 

For Braised Loin of Lamb. — Place on abed of either stewed pease, spinach 
or cucumbers. 



GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 977 

Stewed Lamb. — Strew over with stewed muslirooms or green pease. 

For Lamb Chops. — Crisped parsley or place around a mound of mashed 
potatoes. 

For Lamb Cutlets. — Place chopped spinach in center. 

For Lamb Sweet-breads. — Water cresses ; tufts of parsley. 

For Boiled Nech of Mutton. — Slices of cooked carrots and turnips alter- 
nated ; or parsnips may be used instead of the latter. 

For Braised Leg of Mutton. — Braised onions. 

For Roast Neck or Loin of Mutton. — Little mounds of red currant jelly. 
Saddle of Mutton, same. Shoulder of Mutton, braised onions or baked toma- 
toes. 

For Boiled Leg of Pork. — Sliced cooked carrots, turnips or parsnips. For 
^altpork, same. 

For Roast Pork or a Roast pig. — Baked apples. 

For Pork Chops. — Pickled gherkins, or slices of large pickled cucumbers 
cut crosewise. For Fried Salt Pork, same, or fried apples. For Fried Sausa- 
ges, same as above. 

For Pigs Feet Souse. — Slices of lemon. 

For Roast Veal. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls alternating. 

For Stewed Veal. — Force-meat balls ; rashers of broiled ham or bacon 
curled and fried ; boiled carrots sliced alternated with mounds of green pease ; 
or mushrooms and sorrel or spinach and endive. 

For Veal Cutlets or Chops. — Tender leaves of lettuce; olives; breaded 
rashers of pork, or same as for stewed veal. 

Veal Sweet-breads. — On a bed of cooked pease. 

For Boiled Calf's Head. — Egg balls, or fringed celery. 

For Calf's Liver. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls, or sliced pickled 
beets. 

For Calf's Tongue. — Aspic jelly. 
For Curries. — Border of boiled rice. 

GARNISHES FOR POULTRY, ETC. 

For Boiled Chicken. — Sliced hard boiled eggs alternated with tufts of 
celery or lettuce leaves ; or place on a bed of rice. 

Fricasseed Chicken. — Little mounds of boiled rice. 

Fried Chicken. — Fried oysters alternated with lemon points. 

Roast Chicken. — Crisped parsley or stuffed tomatoes. 

For Boiled Turkey. — Same as for boiled chicken. 

For Roast Turkey. — Fried oysters, or sausages ; force-meat balls ; water- 
cresses. 

For Game. — Fresh or preserved barberries ; little mounds of currant jelly ; 
sliced oranges or lemons. 



978 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 

For Boiled Rabbit. — Eashers of fried ham or bacon ; or parsley. 

For Roast Rabbit. — A border of mashed potato ; force-meat balls ; water- 
cresses, or slices of lemon. 

GARNISHES FOR SALADS. 

Cabbage Salad. — Sliced hard boiled eggs. 

Chickem Salad. — Sliced hard boiled eggs in rings alternated with sliced 
pickled beets or cucumbers. 

Lobster Salad. — Same as above with the coral arranged with it ; or sur- 
round with a border of cray fish. 

Meat Salad. — Tender leaves of lettuce. 

Sardine Salad. — Small whole sardines, or lemon points. 

Salmon Salad. — ^Nasturtiums, buttercups, or wild roses. ■ 

GARNISHES FOE VEGETABLES. 

For Artichokes.— CrisT£>ed parsley. 

For Asparagus on Toast. — Sliced hard boiled eggs. 

For Fried Stewed Cabbage. — Fried sausages. 

For Stewed Celery.— Croutons. 

For Greens.— Slices of tongue or hard boiled eggs. 

For Fried Potatoes. — Parsley sprinkled with grated lemon peel. 

For Stetved Peas. — Breaded rashers of bacon fried. This is also nice for 
beans, poached or fried eggs, and hashed calf's head. 

There are many other things that will prove a pretty garnish that we 
have not mentioned, such as carrot leaves, borage flowers, horse-radish 
flowers, nasturtium flowers, and many of the wild flowers may be used. In 
fact one can use almost anything by exercising good judgment as to amount 
used and how, when and where. A rule for those most often used would be 
as follows : Parsley is the universal garnish for all kinds of cold meats, poul- 
try fish, etc. Horse-radish for roast beef, and slices of lemon for roast veal 
and calf's head. Carrots in slices, for boiled beef, hot or cold. Sliced beet, 
or hard boiled egg for cold meat and boiled beef. Mint either with or with- 
out parsley for roast lamb, either hot or cold. Pickled gherkins, capers or 
boiled onions, for boiled meats and stews. Lemon points for all salads. 
Pickled cucumbers sliced crosswise for fried pork, sausage, hash, etc., and 
olives are very much used for all meats by those who like them. Where the 
garnishis an eatable one, a piece, slice, or bit is to be served with the article, 
but if not, it remains on the dish. We give also some of the preparations of 
different garnishes. 

Lemon Points. — Cut fresh lemons in thin slices, and divide these slices 
into four parts. They are used as a garnish for salads and made dishes. 



GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 979 

Egg Pyramids. — Take the inside of a stale loaf, cut into small pyramids 
with flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid put rather more than a table- 
spoon of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over, this sprinkle finely chop- 
ped parsley and fine browned bread-crumbs. Arrange these on the napkin 
round fish, one green and ono brown alternating. 

Fried Bread for Borders. — Fry slices of bread cut in any fanciful shape. 
When quite crisp, dip one side into beaten white of an egg mixed with a little 
flour, and place it on the edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the 
border is completed, arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternating. 

Rashers of Pork. — Cut breakfast bacon very thin and in strips three or 
four inches long. Fry only long enough to become transparent, or thoroughly 
hot; if cooked crisp it is ruined. Serve as a garnish, or laid over beefsteak, 
roast beef, game, etc. For Breaded Rashers of Pork, dip or roll the strips in 
fine bread crumbs (some first dip in beaten egg) then brown nicely. May 
be used as a garnish for meat or vegetables. 

Sorrel Garnish. — Sorrel is best plucked between May and October. Take 
about three pounds of sorrel, very fresh and green. Pick it nicely over and 
remove all stalks ; wash well and drain well on a wire sieve. Chop it for 
quite twenty minutes. Now put into stewpan that will hold about two quarts, 
tablespoon of flour and one and a half of butter. Stir over the fire for three 
or four minutes, and then put in gill of broth, and eight minutes after, an- 
other gill. Again stir over the fire for twenty minutes. Beat up three or 
four eggs with one half gill of milk, in a basin ; pour these on the sorrel, stir- 
ring rapidly for several minutes. It is then ready to use as a garnish 

Potato Patties. — Beat or grate to a fine flour three-fourths pound of mealy 
])otatoes, making it moist with a small quantity of milk ; put this with two 
ounces of butter, melted and beaten to a cream. Boil one-half pint of milk, 
stir it quite boiling into the potato, and stir it, holding it above the fire, into 
a very smooth, fine paste. Stand it on the hob and mix into it two well- 
beaten eggs. Let the mixture become cool, when beat it up with the yolks 
of four eggs ; whisk the whites of these to a froth, and stir it carefully into 
the batter. Butter little patty shells fill with the batter and bake a' deep 
gold yellow in a quick oven. Serve hot as a garnish with any nice dish of 
fish, fowl, etc. Or butter patty pans and sprinkle grated crumbs over them, 
then fill with the batter and bake as above. 

Paper Frills and Rosettes for Cutlets, etc. — Cut a sheet of note paper into 
strips two inches wide, and double them lengthwise, to make the width of a 
knife blade. Cut the double edge into fringe a quarter inch deep. Move the 
edges of the paper one higher than the other, and the fringe will be bowed 
out instead of lying flat. Fasten the edge that way with a touch of corn starch 
paste made very stiff. Then roll the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil 
and fasten the end with paste — if to be slipped over the ends of frogs' legs ; 
but if for cutlet bones, or ham, or tongue ends of uncertain size wrap them just 
before serving, and a touch of the very stiff paste will hold them in place. 

To Garnish a Ham or Tongue. — Make a glaze as directed in meats, and 
when it softens, as glue would do, brush over the meat, ham or tongue ; then 
when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen syringe 
or a stiff paper funnel trace any design wished on the glazed surface ; this 
makes a very handsome dish, and if the ham has been properly boiled will be 
very satisfactory to the palate. Or the glaze may be omitted and butter, lard, 
or savory jelly used, with syringe cone or funnel, just as icing is used, as de- 
scribed in Ornamental Icing in first part of book. 



080 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 



To use butter or lard treat it in the same manner as directed for jelly in 
same place so as to get it just soft enough to pass through the cone. Be very 
careful not to get it too soft or it will not stand. In warm weather add a little 
flour to stiffen it, but not too much, or it will not pass through the cone ; when 
ready fill cone with it, same as for icing, and use in same manner. This or- 
namentation, with the addition of a little parsley, and a cut root flower or so, 
completes the operation of decorating the above named articles. They are 
sometimes further, or even altogether decorated or garnished with "sippets," 
(small pieces) cut diamond or triangular form, and consisting of toasted bread, 
aspic jelly, etc. ; but this style of garnishing is usually adopted only bj' those 
who are not competant to decorate or garnish with butter, lard or savory jelly, 
and who are not able to cut their own root flowers. Root flowers are usually 
cut in the forms of roses, tulips, dahlias, etc., from white and yellow turnips, 
beets, and carrots, and the edges of the leaves are usually tipped with pink 
color, such as liquid "cochineal." 

To cut root flowers, wash the roots, and for say a rose, take a good shaped 
turnip, pare it, cut in the projDer shape, then with a sharp jjocket knife 
(French root-flower cutters may be had of dealers in confectioner's supplies,) 
go all around the bottom edge, so ^^^; then repeat this operation, so 
^OO^, bringing the second cuts between the first, and holding the back of 
the knife blade from you and the edge towards you. This causes the cuts to 
meet at the bottom, and then by holding the knife point down, and running 
it all round inside the cut the piece falls out, leaving the leaves separate and 
distinct. Continue this until you reach the center, so XXX. A little prac- 
tice will assist you in this particular, and you will ^^^^ goon be able to 
make other flowers, as the princijile is the same; when the flowers are cut 
tip the edges as above. 

A Fan Garnish. — Slice small cucumbers very thin lengthwise, leaving 
them attached at the stem end and spread them open like little fans. These 
are nice for sliced cold meat, chicken or turkey. 

A Fancy Garnish. — Cut the breast of a cooked turkey or chicken into 
slices and then, either with a round tin cutter or a knife, cut these again into 
shapes all alike. Make some mayonaise sauce with lemon juice, and mix 
with it nearly an equal amount of aspic jelly, barely warmed enough to melt 
it. Cover the slices of turkey in the dish with the mayonaise-jelly and set the 
dish in the refrigerator. Mince a slice of cooked blood-beet extremely fine 
and some parsley the same. Take up the slices of turkey on a fork, when the 
jelly is set quite firm, and dip the underside lightly into the minced parsley, 
and then into the beet, making them appear sprinkled over, and place as a 
garnish to a Turkey Galatine, or thej'^ make a nice dish in themselves, garnish- 
ing the edge with green, such as shred lettuce. 

SAUCES FOR FISH. 

For Baked Fish. — Egg or vinegar sauce. 
For Boiled i^is/t. —Hollandaise or liver sauce. 

SAUCES FOR MEATS. 

For Boiled Beef. — Apple, asparagus, chilli, cucumber, curry or horse- 
radish sauce. 

For Boast Beef. — Celery, drawn butter, lobster, mushroom, mustard, 
parsley, pickle and shrimp sauce. 



GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 9'Sj 

For Stewed Beef. — Oyster sauce. 

For Fried beefsteak. — Brown onion cream, or mux sauce. 

For Boiled Tongue. — Tartar sauce, 

For Boiled Lamb. — Anchovy or Hollandaise sauce. 

For Roast Lamb. — Chestnut or mint sauce. 

For Boiled Mutton. — Tomato or caper sauce. 

For Boiled Veal. — Celery sauce. 

For Roast Veal. — Mushroom sauce. 

SAUCES FOR POULTRY AND GAME. 

For Boiled Chicken, — Bread or cauliflower sauce. 

For Roast Chicken. — Giblet sauce. 

For Boiled Turkey. — Lemon or oyster sauce. 

For Ducks. — Olive sauce. 

For Roast Goose. — Apple sauce. 

For Game. — White or rice sauce. 



982 THE KITCHEN. 



THE KITOHEIS^. 



It is almost impossible to give any directions except in a general way re- 
garding the kitchen, as there is an endless variety of plans and arrangement. 
In no other room in the house are sunlight and fresh, pure air so indispen- 
sable as in the room where the most important work must be done. A long, 
narrow, dark kitchen is an abomination. Always furnish the kitchen well 
first, and if there is anything left to spend on the parlor, well ; if not the money 
has been spent well. The main point is to systematize every thing, group- 
ing such things as belong to any particular kind of work. For instance, in 
baking do not go to the china closet for a bowl, across the kitchen for the flour, 
and to the farther end of the pantry or store-room for an egg, when they may 
just as well be within easy reach of each other. Study and contrive to bring 
order out of the natural chaos of the kitchen, and the head will save the 
hands and feet much labor. 

If kitchen floors are made of hard wood and simply oiled two or three 
times a year, no grease spot is made when grease drops on them, for it can 
be easily wiped up — carpet or paint is not advisable. Neither paint nor paper 
the walls, but once a year apply a coat of the good old-fashioned whitewash. 
Do not have the woodwork painted j the native wood well oiled and varnish- 
ed lightly is much the best finish. A wide, roomy dresser is a great con- 
venience ; it should have two wide closets below and three narrow ones above, 
with a row of draM'ers at top of lower closets. Here should be kept all pots 
and kettles, sauce-pans, waffle-irons, kitchen crockery, tins, etc., all arrang- 
ed and grouped together so as to be convenient for use. If possible, have 
good sliding doors, and at the top and bottom of same have a narrow sliding 
panel for a ventilator, which should be used when sweeping. By this ar- 
rangment every article of kitchen ware can be enclosed from the dust and flies. 
A well apijointed sink is a necessity in every kitchen, and should be near 
both window and range, so as to have light, and also be convenient to the hot 
water. It should be provided with a "grooved" and movable dish drainer, 



THE KITCHEN. 



983 



set so as to drain into the sink. Always have bracket or wall lamps, if not 
lighted by gas, placed at each end, or at the sides, so that the room may be 
well lighted in the evening. AVhen possible, a long table at the end of the 
sink, and so close to it that water can not drip between, on whicli to dress 
vegetables, ponltry, game, etc., saves time and steps; and the good light, 
which is a necessity in this jiart of the room, leaves no excuse for slighted or 
slovenly work. Under this table may be two drawers, with compartments 
in one for polishing materials, chamois leather, and articles needed for scour- 
ing tin and copper, and a paring knife, which 
is so essential in preparing fruit and vegetables, 
one with a guard on the side, as illustrated, 
].revents taking too tliick a paring ; and in the other, articles for keeping liie 
stove or range in order. Back of the table and sink, tlie wall should be ceiled 
with wood for three feet above them, and here may be put up galvanized iron 
hooks and nails on which to hand basting-spoons, ladles, cooking forks and 
spoons, the chopping knife, cake turner, etc. A set of drawers close at hand 
for salt, pepper and spices is also convenient. There should never be bevel, 
beading, or moulding on kitchen window or door frames ; and the kitchen 
door, leading to the dining room, should be faced with rubber and closed with 
a not too strong spring. Not less than three large windows are desirable in 
every kitchen, which should be cheerful, pleasant, well ventilated, conven- 
ient and clean. 

In houses of the old stjde there was either no pantry at all, the kitchen 
being furnished with a dresser and shelves, or it was merely a small closet to 
hold the articles in less common use. In modern houses the pantry is next 
in importance to the kitchen, and it should be so arranged as to accommodate 
all the appliances used in cookery, as well as the china, glass-ware, cutlery, 
and other articles for the table, unless a dresser is used as before suggested. 
In arranging a plan for a building, the pantry should receive careful consid- 
eration, as next in importance to the kitchen ; it should be sufficiently roomy, 
open into both the dining-room and the kitchen, and, in order to "save steps," 
should be as convenient to the range or cooking stove as circumstances will 
allow. The window should be placed so as to give light without infringing 
on the shelving ; the shelves should be so 
arranged as to not obstruct the light from 
it ; the lower ones should be two and a half 
feet from the floor, and two feet or more in 
width, and project about three inches be- 
yond the closets and drawers below ; and 
the part near the window, where there is no 
shelving, may be used for moulding and pre- 
paring pastry, and such other work as may ^pi"" ^ack. 
be most conveniently done here, and if possible, have a Baking Cupboard (as 
described in Kitchen "Wrinkles) near by with drawers, etc., for spices, but if 
that cannot be had a Spice Rack, which, as illustrated, is a neat rack in which 




984 THE KITCHEN. 



is set small cans coutaining spices. The handle is a convenience and can be 
set near when cakes are to be made, and when the work is done it may be set 
awaj' on a shelf or in a cupboard until needed again, or some prefer a Spice 
Cabinet, being a little bureau, about a foot high with each drawer labeled 
outside, "nutmegs," "cloves," etc., and put up near where cakes, etc., are 
made. It costs little, probably about two dollars, and is a great eonvenience. 
Other shelves, or a china closet, should be provided for the china and other 
table furniture in every day use. The pantry should have an abundance of 
drawers and closets, of which it is hardly possible to have too many — the up- 
*per closets for the nicer china and glass, and the lower ones to hold pans and 
other cooking utensils in less frequent use. The drawers are for table-linen 
and the many uses the housekeeper will find for them. If psssible the window 
should be on the north side, but in any case it should have blinds for shade, 
and a wire gauze or other screen to keep out flies. 

Use a cloth to wash potatoes. It is no trouble to keep one for this pur- 
pose, and it will save hands and time. Some prefer a small brush which you 
can buy for the purpose. Tie a strip of muslin on the end of a round stick, 
and use to grease bread and cake pans, gem-irons, etc. Have two large 
pockets in your kitchen apron, and in one of them always keep a holder. A 
piece of clam or oyster shell is much better than a knife to scrape a kettle, 
should you be so imfortunate as to burn anything on it. If you use a copper 
tea-kettle, keep an old dish with sour milk and a cloth in it, wash the kettle 
with this every morning after washing off with clear water, audit will always 
look bright and new. Cut a very ripe tomato and rub over a kitchen table 
to remove grease. The juice will also remove stains from and whiten the 
hands. 

CARE OF L.\MPS. 

If you use oil, buy the best kerosene. To test it, place a small quantity 
in a tea-cup, and if it does not easily ignite when brought into contact with 
a lighted paper or match, it is good ; poor oil will ignite instantly. Keep oil 
in a ten-gallon can, with a faucet at the lower part, so as to draw off into a 
smaller can or lamp-filler ; set the large can in a cool, dark place ; keep all 
the articles used for cleaning, filling and trimming lamps by themselves. For 
these purposes provide an old waiter (to hold the things), a lamp-filler, pair 
of scissors or a lamp-trimmer, box of wicks, soap, washing soda, and several 
soft cloths and towels, also a wire hairpin with which to keep open the vent 

in the burner, and what is 
known as a cork puller is use- 
ful for holding cloths used in 
Cork Puller. ^"^^ cleaning lamp chimneys as 

well as pulling corks form bottles and using dish cloths in hot water. When 
lamps need an extra cleaning, add one tablespoon soda to a quart of water, be- 
ing careful that none of the bronze or gilding comes in contact with th« soda. 




THE KITCHEN. 



985 



The wick should touch the bottom of the lamp and be trimmed square across. 
When the wick becomes too short to carry up the kerosene, and you have not 
time to put in a new wick, a piece or cotton rag pinned on below will prove a 
good feeder. Whe burners of lamps become gummy and prevent the wicks 
moving freely, boil them up in suds over the fire for a short time, and they 
will become entirely clean and work well. Lamps may become encrusted in- 
side with settlings from the oil, and ordinary washing will not remove it. 
Take soap-suds and fill the lamp about one-third full, then put in a little sharp 
sand, and shake vigorously. A few minutes will remove every particle of 
settlings. Always fill the lamps every day and in the day-time ; never fill a 
lamp after dark near a lighted lamp. When lighting a lamp turn the wick 
up slowly so that the chimney is gradually heated. When taking a lamp 
from a warm room into a cold one, first turn down the wick ; do not fill too 
full, as the heat expands the oil and drives it out making the lamp dirty and 
dangerous. Never light or burn an almost empty lamp, as the empty space 
is nearly always filled with a very explosive gas. Before putting out a lamp 
turn it down until the wick is below the top of tube ; as if left above it the oil 
gradually works out through the wick and runs down over the burner and 
lamp. Turn the flame down low, and wave a fan, book, or paper across the 
top of the chimney. Blowing down a chimney is very dangerous when a lamp 
is nearly empty and turned up high. Never start a fire with oil. Buy the 
best lamp chimneys by the dozen. The best are cheapest, and it is conven- 
ient to have fresh ones on hand when one is broken at an inopportune time 
A piece of sponge fastened on the end of a stick or wire is the best thing with 
which to clean lamp chimneys. Or, hold them over the nose of the tea-kettle 
when tlie kettle is boiling furiouslj'. One or two repetitions of this process 
will make them beautifully clear. Of course they must be wiped upon a 
clean cloth. 

Fill new tin pans with boiling water (having a little soda in it,) let stand 
on a warm part of the range for a while wash in s-trong soap-suds, rinse, and 
dry well. Scouring tins very often with whiting or ashes 
wears them out ; if properly taken care of, washed in suds 
and thoroughly dried, they will not need scouring. This 
same care is needed for a steamer, which is one of the 
nicest utencils in which to cook vegetables, etc., for many 
vegetables are much better when steamed than when 
boiled in actual contact with water. Cabbage, with salt 
sprinkled among the leaves is more quickly cooked and is 
much more delicate than when boiled. The same is true 
of puddings, particularly plum puddidgs, and for chickens 
potatoes, rice, and indeed for nearly every thing usually 
immersed in water. The outer kettle is partly filled with 
boiling water, the article to be cooked is placed in the 
perforated pan and set in the other and a close fitting patcm steamer. 

cover placed over both. There are many other steamers larger and more 
elaborate, but the one illustrated is a good simple one. 




986 THE KITCHEN. 




Boil ashes or a bunch of hay or grass in a new iron kettle before cooking 
in it; scour well Avith soap and sand, then fill with clean water, and boil one 
or two hours, To remove the taste of wood, first scald the vessel well with 
boiling water, letting the water remain in it till cold ; then dissolve sal-soda 
or soda, (two pounds to a barrel of water) in lukewarm water, adding a little 
bit of lime to it, and wash the inside of the vessel well with this solution ; 
afterward scald it well with jilain hot water, and rinse it with cold water be- 
for you use it. Knives far the table should never be used to cook with ; those 
for the former purpose may be a cheap plated set for every day use, and 
should be kept bj' themselves, and never be allowed to be used in the kitch- 
en. A convenient tray is the one 
illustrated ; it is made of strong 
Japanned tin and has a separate 
apartment for knives, spoons, 
and forks, and teaspoons. It is 
also provided with a convenient 
handle. A wooden box may be 
Knife and Spoon Tra^^l made by an ingeuious man in 

the same form, that will be equalh^ convenient. Lucky is the woman who has 
the ingenious man at hand, who has the time and is willing to spend it in 
fitting up the kitchen with such conveniences. Never place a range or cook- 
ing stoA'^e opposite a door or window if it can be avoided, as any draft will 
prevent the oven from baking well. 

A necessity in the kitchen, because a great protection against clothes 
taking fire, is a large kitchen apron made full length with bib, and sleeves if 
wished, the skirt to button close around the dress-skirt. A wooden mat 
(made by laying down six pieces of lath eleven inches long, one inch wide, 
and an inch apart, and nailing across these, at right angles, six other similar 
pieces about the same distance apart) is a great protection to the kitchen 
table, which should be of ash. Hot kettles and pans from the stove may then 
be set on this without danger, as the construction of the mat secures a cir- 
culation of air under it. It is the "little foxes that spoil the vines" in the 
kitchen as well as elsewhere — the neglect of little things causes loss of time^ 
patience and money. 

CARE OP FIRES. 

In building fires concentration is the important point ; 1st, the fuel should 
be concentrated, that is, put together in a compact heap, and 2d, in a place on 
the grating where the draft can be concentrated upon it. These two points 
gained it is an easy matter to produce a brisk fire. When the kindling, which 
must be dry and in sufficient quantity, is well started, the wood or coal, as 
the case may be, is so put on that the draft and fiame will pass directly 
through the fuel. In starting a fire, all depends upon having the conditions 
right, and great loss of time, and even patience, is incurred if they are not 



THE KITCHEN. 



987 



provided. Always have wood in the box. This can generally be done with- 
out taking special time for it, by remembering to bring some in when you 
pass the wood-pile without anything in the hands. See that the wood-box 
is full at night, and the shavings and kindlings in their place. In the morn- 
ing empty the ash-pan, or better still, clean your stove or range at night. 
This can always be done, except in the case of late suppers. "When supper 
is ready, and there is no further use for the fire, open the oven doors, take all 
the covers partly off the holes, and by the time the supper dishes and need- 
ful work in the preparation for breakfast is done, if the fire has been properly 
attended to, the stove will be cool enough to clean out, which should be 
thoroughly done, removing all the ashes or cinders from every part of it. This 
is a very particular work, as the corners often secrete quite an amount of 
ashes that must be removed if you will have a perfectly clean stove. Rap on 
the sides of the pipes, to dislodge the soot and ashes that collect there, sweep 
all over with a long handled brush-broom and the stove is ready to receive 
the shavings, kindlings and wood for the fire. 

Where there is a large amount of cooking to be done, the ashes should 
be cleared from under the elides of the ovens as often as once a week in large 
or small families ; this will insure the oven to bake well, and always the same, 
if the fire is properly arranged. In removing 
ashes it is very important that they are not 
thrown out in improper places or placed in 
wooden receptacles where a fire may break out 
from spontaneous combustion or from some 
"unknown cause. ' ' A proper ash barrel is made 
of metal, should be heavy enough so as not to 
be easily bruised, and should be provided with 
handles for convenient removal. The one rep- 
resented in cut when used for coal ashes, is pro- 
sdded with a sieve which holds and saves all 
the unconsumed coal, while it allows the ashes 
to pass through. Never on any account use ker- 
osene to make the fire burn more quickly. In ^ ^atc A»h Barrel 
making the fire, as soft wood burns more quickly than hard, it is better to 
have some with which to start it, filling uj) with hard wood. If the wood is 
^ood and properly placed you will have a bright clear flame, yielding a great 
amount of heat which should be utilized for cooking purposes, by so arrang- 
ing the draught that none of it is wasted. This can only be done by one who 
30 perfectly understands each part of it as to economize in the use of fuel. 
The fire needs constant attention, as it is poor economy to let the fire go par- 
tially out, as in adding fresii fuel the heat is wasted until the stove and oven 
are again heated to the right temperature for cooking. 

Fill the tea-kettle full of water and place on the stove, and if the fire is 
good it will boil soon enough for use, and every time water is used, add cold, 
so as to keep the supply good. The habit is almost universal to put a small 




988 



THE KITCHEN. 



quantity of water in the tea-kettle, aiming to have just enough for certain 
things, and if an extra demand occurs the kettle is empty, the fire is out, and 
the delay occasions no little trouble to both cook and mistress. When water 
has been made to boil no matter what is cooking in it, tlie fire may be very 
much lessened, as but little heat is required to keep it boiling. Rapid boil- 
ing does not hasten cooking, and the articles cooked' are much better when 
boiled slowly. 

For general use copper and brass cooking utincils are not the best, be 
cause of the great care necessary to keep them clean and free from poisonous 
deposits, a work that can never he trusted to servants. The best granite iron 
is both safe, light and easy to clean. Care should be used in cooking in tin 
vessels, as they are liable to be affected by acids, oils and salt, but not to 
the same extent as copper. For all ordinary cooking purposes, if tin vessels 
are kept clean and free from rust, no injury will result. A little whiting or 
dry flour may be used to polish tin with. If a kettle is to be used for cooking 
fish, heat it first over the fire ; if an odor arises, it needs cleaning as above, 
heat it over the fire, rub well with brown paper, then with an onion. In 
washing tin ware use soft water and soap, and wash well, rinse with hot water, 
wipe well, and put on the hearth or stove to dry perfectly ; once a week wash 
tin ware in water in which a little sal-soda has been dissolved ; take the suds 
for the pots and kettles (if not hot add more hot water,) and 
wash and rinse thoroughly on the inside. To wash the outside 
of pots, kettles and all iron ware, place in a tub or large dish- 
pan, and with soap on cloth, rub them briskly and hard ; if 
necessary scrape with an iron spoon or old knife to get all dirt 
off, rinse in hot water, wipe, and place on stove to dry. The 
best thing to wash them with is a wire dish-cloth. If kept 
Wire Dish-cloth, scrupulouslv cleau, oysters, tomatoes, and even some delica- 
cacies that are usually cooked in porcelain and cranite ware, may be cooked 
nicely in iron. 

Dish washers and Avipers should be kept very clean, being washed in 
suds and well rinsed after each meal. A very convenient article, upon which 

KR nm to hang them to dry is the umbrella folding rack which may be 
Jk. It ) placed on the wall near the stove. When in use it presents a 
a goodly number of arms on which to hang articles to be dried, 
and when not in use it closes up modestly and occupies no useful 
space. We know of nothing so simple and 
useful for the purpose. It is made in the 
very best manner, and with fair usage will 
last a life-time. The cut on the left rep- 
resents the rack folded with arms dropped 
against the wall, and the one on the right 
the same spread out ready for use. En- umbreiia Fouing Rack, 

ameled ware may be cleansed by filling the vessel with hot water, with soda 
dissolved in it — one ounce to a gallon ; let it byil twenty minutes ; then if the 






THE KITCHEN. 989 



stain does not all come off, scour with fine sand or brick dust ; rinse well with 
hot water and wipe dry. If by carelessness or accident, while making chow- 
chow, or anything else, it becomes burned on the porcelain kettle, empty 
immediately, fill with water, put in about pint of wood ashes to two gallons 
of water, let it boil twenty minutes ; clean with sand or brick dust as above, 
if it does not all come off. In either case, if unsuccessful the first time, re- 
peat. To clean a brown porcelain kettle, boil peeled potatoes in it. The 
porcelain will be rendered nearly as white as when new. To clean silver or 
plated ware, wash in clean hot water or lay in hot soda water a few minutes ; 
then wipe dry with a canton flannel cloth, and polish with chamois skin. If 
silver powder is used for cleaning tarnished spots, care must be taken to brush 
out all the dust from the chased work on the plate. In the daily use of silver, 
wash in clean hot water and wipe dry with a canton flannel cloth. Never use 
soap in washing silver. Ste^l knives and forks are best cleaned by being 
scoured with bath brick, but some good ''kitchen maids" always use the 
common brick pulverized, with good success. Have a properly made knife- 
box, with board extending, on which to lay the knife to scour, wet a cloth in 
hot water or soft soap and water, 
dip in the dust which has been 
previously shaved off; then rub onion Knife, 

briskly and hard until all spots are removed; wash and rinse in clean, hot 
water and wipe dry. Never put a knife into hot fat, as it destroys the tem- 
per and the knife is useless. It is nice to have a separate knife for peeling 

onions, and marked so that it can al- 
ways be kept for that purpose. One is 
Potato Knife. also uice SO marked for potatoes, and 

one should certainly be had for use in preparing fish as the taint is so strong. 
A separate pan and board should also be kept for this purpose. 

The sink comes in for special notice. Wash it daily with soap and water, 
rinse with clean boiltng water, always rinsing in hot water after pouring 
suds into it. This can not be insisted on too strongly, because of such great 
importance in the cleanliness of the kitchen. The old adage, ''A time for 
everything," applies here. On Mondays and Thursdays, during summer, 
pour hot water, containing a little chloride of lime, or some copperas water 
as directed in Kitchen Wrinkles, into the drains, and every Monday in win- 
ter. This will prevent all unpleasant and unhealthy odors. The use of soda 
in cleansing our wares generally diminishes the quantity of soap needed. As 
a general thing, too much soap is used in washing dishes. Many good house- 
keepers do not allow soap used in washing dishes at all, except to clean tin 
and iron ware, dish cloth and sink. In cleaning an unj)ainted kitchen floor, 
if there are sjiots of grease on it, put some soft soap (or Ij^e, if to be had) in a 
tin cup, kept for the purpose ; place on the stove until boiling hot ; then pour 
a little on each spot and scour with ashes ; wash the floor with soft hot water, 
rinse well, and, if the grease is not out the first time, try it again when the 
floor needs cleaning. Always remember to rinse thoroughly, changing the 



990 THE KITCHEN. 



water when it becomes too dirty. In cleaning floors, tables, or wood-work, 
remember to rub always with, and not across, the grain of the wood. 

The breakage of dishes in some houses is fearful. There are very few 
families rich enough to bear it, much less the families of small means or just 
a competence. The mother is sick or wearied with the eare of the nursery, 
and cannot see to the putting away of the best china, which has been used 
because a friend dined with them. While conversing with her guest, she 
hears a crash in the kitchen. It is with difficulty she remains calm until the 
guest departs, when she finds a cup has fallen and cracked her nice tureen, 
and broken a nick out of two or three saucers ; or several goblets, set in a 
careless place, have fallen and are broken. She is sick at heart, for it was 
but a few weeks before she had spent fifteen or twenty dollars to replace her 
broken, cracked, and nicked dishes. Little comfort does she get from Brid- 
get, who replies: "La, madam, it was but a few of your dishes, and sure I 
could not help it. I would not think the likes of ye would make such a fuss. ' ' 
Every wise housekeeper will distinguish between carelessness and accidents. 
To correct this evil, and stop the great waste, the only way is to have help 
understand they must replace each broken or nicked dish (for a nick in a dish 
is as bad as a break), or have the cost of them deducted from their wages. 
This will cause two very valuable results. The servant will become more 
careful, which will add much to the comfort of the mistress, and will also 
form a habit of carefulness that will fit her to become a good housekeeper. 
There is a dish drainer that is also a help in pre- 
venting breakage, as the dishes can be easily ar- 
ranged in it. It consists of two separate articles 
— a neat, strong wire basket, with a smaller basket 
inside, and a drip pan. The smaller dishes are set 
on edge in the small basket, and the longer ones 
between the two, there being space enough below 
the basket in the drip-pan to hold the water which 
drains ofi". To rinse with hot water the basket with Ford Dish Dr 

dishes in it may be removed from pan to sink, hot water poured over them, 
and then returned to pan to drain. This drain was the invention of a woman, 
and its convenience shows that she knew what she wanted. 

There is an old and true saying, that "a woman can throw out with a 
spoon faster than a man can throw in with a shovel." In cooking meats, for 
instance, unless watched, the cook will throw out the water without letting 
it cool to take ofi" the fat, or scrape the dripping pan into the swill-pail. This 
grease is useful in many ways. Bits of meat are thrown out which would 
make good hashed meat or hash ; the flour is sifted in a wasteful manner, or 
the bread-pan left with dough sticking to it ; pie-crust is left and laid by to 
sour, instead of making a few tarts for tea ; cake-batter is thrown out because 
but little is left ; cold puddings are considered good for nothing, when often 
they can be steamed for the next day, or, as in case of rice, made over in 
other forms ; vegetables are thrown away that would warm for breakfast 




THE KITCHEN. 991 



nicely ; dish-towels are thrown down where mice can destroy them ; soap is 
left in water to dissolve, or more used than is necessary ; the scrub-brush is 
left in the water, pails scorched by the stove, tubs and barrels left in the sun 
to dry and fall apart, chamber-pails allowed to rust, tins not dried, and iron- 
ware rusted ; nice knives are used for cooking in the kitchen, silver spoons 
used to scrape kettles, or forks to toast bread ; cream is allowed to mold and 
spoil, mustard to dry in the pot, and vinegar to corrode the casters ; tea, 
roasted coffee, pepper and spices to stand open and loose their strength ; the 
molasses-jug looses the cork and flies take posession ; vinegar is drawn in a 
basin and allowed to stand until both basin and vinegar are spoiled ; sugar 
is spilled from the barrel, coffee from the sack, and tea from the chest; dif- 
ferent sauces are made too sweet, and both sauce and sugar are wasted ; dried 
fruit has not been taken care of in season, and becomes wormy ; the vinegar 
on pickles looses strength or leaks out, and the pickles become soft ; potatoes 
in the cellar grow, and the sprouts are not removed until they become worth- 
less ; apples decay for want of looking after ; pork spoils for want of salt, and 
beef because the brine wants scalding ; hams become tainted or filled with 
vermin, for want of the right protection ; dried beef becomes so hard it can't 
be cut ; cheese molds and is eaten by mice or vermin ; bones are burnt that 
will make soap ; ashes are thrown out carelessly, endangering the premises 
and wasting them ; servants leave a light and fire burning in the kitchen when 
they are out all the evening ; clothes are whipped to pieces in the wind, fine 
fabrics rubbed on the board, and laces torn in starching ; brooms are never 
hung up, and soon spoil ; carpets are swept with stubs hardly fit to scrub the 
kitchen, and good new brooms used for scrubbing ; towels are used in place 
of holders, and good sheets to iron on, taking a fresh one every week ; table 
linen is thrown carelessly down, and is eaten by mice, or is put away damp 
and is mildewed ; or the fruit-stains are forgotten, and the stains washed in ; 
table-cloths and napkfns used as dish-wipers ; mats forgotten to be put under 
hot dishes ; tea-pots melted by the stove ; water forgotten in pitchers, and 
allowed-to freeze in winter ; slops for cows and pigs never saved ; china used 
to feed cats and dogs on ; and in many other ways a careless or inexperienced 
housekeeper wastes, without heeding, the hard earned wages of her husband. 
Economy counts nowhere so well as in the kitchen. 



Kitchen "Wrinkles. 



Tomatoes are nice with cream and sugar. 
Tea. — Keep tea in a close chest or canister. 
Caramel. — Always stir with a wooden spooiL, 



992 KITCHEN WKINKLES, 



Coffee. — Keep cool by itself, and closely covered 

Tea Stains can be removed from dishes with soda. 

Bread. — Keep bread or cake in a tin box or stone jar. 

Nutmegs. — Always grate nutmegs at the blossom end first. 

To Warm up Soup. — Set the vessel in hot water and heat slowly. 

Red Ants. — Scatter branches of sweet-fern where they congregate. 

Salt Fish are quickest and best freshened by soaking in sour milk. 

Oven Too Hot. — Sprinkle quarter of an inch thick with sand on bottom. 

To Keep Cutlery from Rust. — Wipe dry, and wrap in coarse brown paper. 

Too Much Salt. — When used, add tablespoon vinegar and teaspoon sugar. 

For Soft Dish-cloths, both for washing and wiping dishes, try cheese cloth. 

Salt in Gravy. — Do not put salt in milk gravy till it is done or it will curdle. 

Bread for 0mm. — When bread will not retain the dent of the finger it is 
ready for the oven. 

To Preserve Milk. — A spoonful of grated horse-radish will keep a pan of 
milk sweet for days. 

Dry Sponge Cake. — When sponge cake becomes dry it is nice to cut in 
thin slices and toast. 

When Washing Baking Dishes. — Rinse well, invert them a few minutes, 
and they will wash easily. 

Tin Tea-ketiles. — Kerosene will make tin tea-kettles as bright as new. 
Saturate a woolen rag and rub with it. 

Charred Casks. — Water and salt meat may be preserved pure a long time 
if put up in casks with the inside charred. 

Corn Starch is a good substitute for eggs in cookies and doughnuts. One 
tablespoon of the starch is equal to one egg. 

Pastry. — Wash the upper crust of pies with milk just before putting them 
in the oven, and it will be a beautiful brown. 

Corks. — When corks are too large to go into a bottle, throw them into 
hot water for a few minutes, and they will soften. 

To Make Meat Tender — A spoonful of vinegar put into the water in 
which meats or fowls are boiled makes them tender. 

The Taste of Fish may be removed very effectually from steel knives and 
forks by rubbing them with fresh orange or lemon peel. 

* Stain on Spoons from boiled egg is removed by rubbing with a little salt, 
or washing in water in which potatoes have been boiled. 

Wire Table Ware — Should never be scoured ; it will remain bright if 
merely washed in clean water with a little soap added. 

Salt will curdle new milk; hence, in preparing milk poridge, gravies, 
etc., the salt should not be added until the dish is prepared. 

To Clean Windows. — The wing of turkeys, geese and chickens are good 
to wash and clean windows, as they leave no dust nor lint as cloth. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 993 

To Mend Tin Pans. — Put putty on the outside and let dry well. The 
pan will never need mending in the same place again. 

To Beat the Whites of Eggs Quickly, put in a pinch of salt. The cooler 
the eggs the quicker they will froth. Salt cools and also freshens them. 

Copperas Water. — Dissolve one pound copperas in a gallon hot water and 
add two ounces commercial carbolic acid ; pour a pint into sink twice a week. 

Lemons. — Before using lemona for any porpose, always roll them awhile 
with your hand on a table. This will cause them to jiela a large quantity of 
juice. 

Silvfr Polish. — To one quart rain-water add two ounces ammonia and 
three ounces of precipitated chalk. Put into a bottle ; keep well corked and 
shake before using. 

Ground Tea. — If tea be ground like coffee, or crushed, immediately be- 
fore hot water is poured upon it, it will yield nearly double the amount of its 
.exhilarating qualities. 

Or mges. — Oranges and lemons keep best wrapped in soft paper, and 
laid in a drawer. Lemons may be kept in cold water, which should be 
changed twice a week. 

Fleas. — Carbolic soap is good to keep them away, but I don't know 
whether it will kill them or not ; wash the animal in carbolic soap and water 
and see how quickly they will leave. 

Economy in Soap. — A soft soap for washing dishes can be secured by 
placing in an old dish, and occasionally adding water, all the scraps of soap 
which are too small to use for washing. 

Cleaning Metals. — Triple lye and alcohol, well mixed, will clean brass, 
gold or silver, and make it look like new. Have used it three years with 
satisfaction. It removes verdigris nicely. 

Stove Holders. — Take wrapping twine as it comes in the house, tie it to- 
gether neatly, and cast on to coarse knitting needles thirty stitches ; knit 
garter stitch until it is square, then bind off. 

To Clean Bottles. — Save all broken and crooked carpet tacks, and keep 
them in a box in the kitchen, for cleaning bottles. They are better than 
shot, for the sharp edges scrape off all stains. 

Fly Specks. — A solution of soap and water is about the best cleaning 
fluid. If you give the dirt and fly specks a little time to soak, they will come 
off easily. A woolen cloth is best to rub with. 

Covering for Jars. — A good water-proof paper for covering jars used in 
preserving, etc., may be made by brushing over the paper with boiled lin- 
seed oil and suspending it over a line until dry. 

To Clean Knives. — Cut a good-sized, solid raw potato in two ; dip the flat 
surface in powdered brick. dust, and rub the knife-blades ; or, use a cork, or 
a cloth in some way. Stains and rust will disappeai-. 

To Freshen Walnuts. — When walnuts have been kept until the meat is 
too much dried to be good, let them stand in milk and water eight hours, 
and dry them, and they will be as fresh as when new. 

Cement for China — The whites of two eggs, and enough quicklime to form 
a thick paste. The quicklime should be finely powdered ; this makes a good 
cement for mending broken china, marble, or glass-ware. 



994 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



How To Treat Angels Cake. — When one has not a pan with feet on up- 
per part, turn it out upon muflfin rings to cool. This cake can be baked in 
any pan using some care as to cleanliness as with any cake. 

To Remove a Tight Glass Stopper. — Apply a clotli wet in hot water to 
the neck of the bottle; or wind a cord around once, and "saw" back and 
forth a few times. This will heat and expand the neck of the bottle. 

To Keep Cake From Sticking. — Butter the pan's well, and dust heavily 
with flour ; turn them over and knock them on the table to get out all the 
fiour that will not stick, and then put in the cake. Mine never sticks. 

Rust on Steel Implements or Knives. — Cover the steel with sweet-oil, rub- 
bing it on well. Let it remain for forty-eight hours, and then, using finely 
powdered unslaked lime, rub the steel until all the rust has disappeared. 

Care of a Gridiron. — All ironware needs thorough cleaning every time it 
is used, and none more than a gridiron. The bars should be kept perfectly, 
clean aiid smooth and buttered every time they are used, if one desires a 
steak cooked to perfection. 

Clinkers. — may be removed from grates and range back, by throwing 
half a dozen broken oyster shells into the fire, when the coal is aglow, ana 
covering them with fresh coal. When red-hot tho clinkers become doughy 
and are easilj^ removed. 

To Preserve Lamp Chimneys from Breaking. — Place a cloth in the bottom 
of a large pan, fill the pan with cold water, and place new chimney in it; 
cover the pan, and let its contents boil one hour; take from fire, and let 
chimney remain in water until it is cold. 

Cement for Knife Handles. — Set handle on end, and partly fill cavity 
with powdered resin, chopped hair or tow, chalk, whiting, or quicklime ; 
heat the spike of the knife and force it into its place. Equal parts of sulphur, 
resin, and brick-dust also make an excellent cement. 

To Soften Water. — Hard water is rendered verv soft and pure, rivaling 
distilled water, by merely boiling a two-ounce vial, say in a kettle of water. 
The carbonate of lime and many impurities will be found adhering to the 
bottle. The water boils very much quicker at the same time. 

A Fire Kindler. — Melt togefher three pounds resin and a quart of tar, 
and stir in as much saw-dust and pulverized charcoal as possible, spread the 
mass on aboard to cool, and break into lumps the size of a walnut. Light 
one with a match, and itliurns for some time with a strong blaze. 

Table Cover, to be thrown over the table after it is set, is best made of 
red cheese cloth. Pink mosquito netting is handsomer but does not keep off 
dust ; set table for next meal immediately after the dishes are washed — the 
most convenient plan where the dining-room is not used for other purposes. 

Slaw Spoon-Fork. — One of the - - ^.a- 

most convenient articles for dishing ^^ ^' "~ ~^^^^^— .^^ ^^^^ ^^^ 
slaw is the spoon-fork as illustrated. — ^^■■^i^^^^""*^i"^^'Wrc y 
One can serve neatly and quickly 

^ ■ Slaw Spoon-Fork. 

To Cleanse a Syrnp Jar.—U maple syrup is not hot enough when put in jars, 
or is imperfectly sealed, it will crvstalize. In getting the crystal out lay the 
jar on the side, put in a little water and turn a little occasionally, and the 
crystal will come out without breaking the glass as it will if you try to soak 
it out while upright. 




KITCHEK WRINKLES. 995 



To Renew Stale Bread, Etc. — Spread a good sized cloth in the steamer, 
and lay in any dry biscuit or slices of light bread you may have. Cover 
closely with the cloth, which will absorb superfluous moisture, and steam 
ten or fifteen minutes. The bread will be almost as fresh as when new. 

Salt Dishes. — The "star salts" are now very generally used on account 
of their convenience and utility. In the bottle, which has a perforated top 
like a pepper-box, is a pulverizer which keeps the salt loose, and insures its 
free delivery. When it is not necessary to measure the quantity, they are 
always ready, and insure a good distribution of the salt. 

Pancake Lifter. — This simple and cheap 
lifter is a necessity if unbroken and neatly 
baked pancakes are a desideratum. The 
cost is small, and the lifter will last a life- 
time, and with it there is no excuse for not serving the breakfast cakes neatly. 

Measures. — They should be a quart, pint, half pint and gill, all made of 
best charcoal tin that contains no poisonous lead which is so commonly used 
to coat inferior tin-wai-e. Still more convenient is a lately invented meas- 
ure of tapering form with ring or shoulders, at different heighths, showing 
any measure desired from a gill to a quart. 

-1 Clean Cook Stove. — Housekeepers should endeavor to keep their cook- 
stoves clean, an easy matter by using care. Salt sprinkled over anything that 
is burning on the stove will prevent any disagreeable odor. Instead of us- 
ing a knife to scrape the dirt oft', a small sheet of sand-paper is more conven- 
ient and better. Stove legs painted red are very pretty and are more easily 
kept clean. 

To Make Kindlings. — Put two or three ounces tallow to one i^ound resin, 
melt very carefully together and when hot stir in fine sawdust and make 
very thick. Spread it immediately about one inch thick iipon a board, first 
sprinkling the board with fine sawdust to prevent sticking. When cold, 
break into lumps one inch square. Or make nicer thus ; while the mixture 
is warm on the board, take a thin board grease the edge and mark the kindl- 
ing off into squares, pressing it in deej) ; then Avhen cold they will break off 
into regular pieces. 

Cement for Dishes. — Into a thick solution of gum arable stir plaster of 
paris until the mixture assumes the consistency of cream, apply Mith a brush 
to the broken edges of the ware and join together. In three days the article 
cannot be broken in the same place. The whitness of the cement adds to 
its value. A simple way is to tie the broken dishes carefully together then 
boil for ten or fifteen minutes in milk keeping the broken parts covered with 
milk, they will be nearly as strong as when new. Some use simply white 
lead and jplace the dish away for two or three months. 

The American Broiler. — This popular broiler has been before the public 
for many years, and has done more to banish the 
health-destroying frying pan from the kitchen 
than any of its later rivals. It will also be a fav- 
orite. 

To Clean Silver. — "Inaexical Soap" is the bes^ 
thing for the purpose in use, not for everyday, but 
when thorough cleaning is required. It is well, 
also, to keep it in a convenient dish, and rub on 
Tiio Amerioau Kruiitr. ^.-^^^ .^ ^jj. q£ flannel wheiiever a spot appears on 

the silver. 




W6 KITCHEN WRIXKLES. 



A Moveable Sink, set on very large and strong casters, is a labor-saving 
contrivance. It may be run into the dining-room to receive dishes after the 
meal is over, and afterwards returned to the kitchen and placed where the 
light is best, or in the coolest part of the room if the weather is hot. Simple 
contrivances of this kind, which cost little except the labor of the "men 
folks," may often be used to save steps and preserve the health of the over- 
worked housekeeper. 

Batter Bucket. — This convenient utensil to be used in making griddla 
cakes should be used in every kitchen. The most per- 
fectly shaped cakes can be made from it without drop- 
ping over stove and griddle, and the cover and stopper 
keep it closely covered after batter is made, till wanted 
for use. 





To Clean Brass Kettles. — When much discolored, scour 
with soap and ashes, then put in a half pint vinegar and a 
handful of salt, put on stove, let come to aboil,take cloth, 
wash thoroughly, and rinse out with water. If using 
every day, the salt and vinegar and rinsing are sufficient. 
Copper utensils are cleaned by simply rubbing with the Batter Bucket. 

salt and vinegar, using as much salt as the vinegar will dissolve, and apply 
with a woolen rag, rubbing vigorously ; then polish with pulverized chalk. 

Water boiled in galvanized iron becomes poisonous, and cold water 

passed through zinc-lined iron pipes should never be used for cooking or 

drinking. Hot water for cooking should never be taken from hot water 

pipes ;_ take from cold-water pipes and keep a supply heated for use in kettles. 

Lid Lifters. — There are a great many forms of lifters for stove lids. The 

tM'O best we illustrate here. In one the handle is 

of wood, set in an iron socket, and the other serves 

as a lid lifter, and has a hook for lifting pots and 

kettles, which are provided with bails. Always 

have a shelf for the lifter near the stove ; never 

hang on a nail. 



Gas Stoves. — In cities where gas is used the 
use of gas stoves for cooking in hot weather is as a rule economical, and adds 
much to comfort, or rather saves much discomfort. Gas companies usually 
make a discount for gas consumed in cooking. There are many gas stoves 
in market, many of them excellent for the purpose. 

Vienna Lime. — Vienna lime and alcohol give a beautiful polish to iron or 
steel. Select the soft pieces of lime, such as will be easily crushed by the 
thumb and finger, as they are the most free. from gritty particles. Apply 
with a cork, piece of soft pine wood, leather, chamois, etc. 

Oil Stoves. — Where gas is not in use, some one of the many kind of oil 
stoves may be used for cooking to advantage, in hot weather especially, 
when the family is small. The use of those which use gasoline, and the 
lighter products of petroleum, usually increases the rate of insurance, and is 
too dangerous to be trusted to any but the most careful and experienced 
persons. 

Tron Sink. — The best sink for service and convenience is made of cast- 
iron in one solid piece. There are several sizes manufactured, and the larg- 
est size that can be afforded should be selected. The iron sink never leaks, 
is easily cleaned, does not need painting, does not get foul like wood, or wear 
out like zinc. The waste-pipe is easily and firmly attached, and in short it 
has all the merits and none of the faults of other sinks. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 99'; 



Hot Alum-Water is the best insect destroyer known. Put the ahim into 
hot water, and let it boi] till it is all dissolved ; then apply the solution hot 
with a brush to all cracKs, closets, bedsteads, and other "^places where any 
insects are found. Ants, bedbugs, cockroaches, and creeping things are 
killed by it, while it has no danger of poisoning. 

To Prevent Rusting of Tin, rub fresh lard over every part of the dish 
and then put in a hot oven and heat it thoroughly. Thus treated, any tin- 
ware may be used in water constantly, and remain bright and free from rust 
To clean tin or other metalic vessels which have held petroleum— hot soan 
and water. '■ 

Fly Trap.— In spite of carefully screened windows, flies will make their 
their way into the best kept houses. The trap represented 
here is the invention of a lady, and is a perfect success. 
It will clear a room of flies in a short time, if none are al- 
lowed to get in from out of doors. The flies are attracted 
inside the cage by bait and can't get out, and are easily 
killed and trap set for more. 




Kitchen TT^('n(Zo«;s— Ought to be as cheerful, light and 
bright as in any room in the house. If the sills are extra 
broad, and a few choice flowers thrive on them, so much 
the better. The ceilings should be of a cheerful tint, and 

the wood-work, whether oiled or painted, varnished. This 

protects the wood and paint, and it is easily cleaned. It is a mistaken idea 
to neglect the kitchen for the parlor. 

Spoon Cupboard.— As near the stove or range as possible have a small 
cupboard, made of the same wood as kitchen is finished in, Avithout any 
shelves. Have little screw hooks screwed in the back of it in rows for \ar<^o 
basting spoons, meat forks and any of the small articles used in cooking that 
can be hung up. At the bottom place the small knives and forks, and'^have 
a hollowed out shelf placed on bottom of door high enough up to shut in 
for the table and teaspoons needed. This saves many steps and much time 
in fumbling through drawers. 

Baking Cupboard.— In the pa»tryhave a cupboard without shelves, be- 
side the place used for baking and in it have screw-hooks screwed on the 
sides and back, upon which to l»*eig measures, egg-beater, cake paddles and 
all small utensils used in bakiii|;. On the bottoni keep the flavoring extracts, 
cook-book and anything else that can not be hung up. Under this cupboard 
it is nice to have some small drawers for raisins, currants, boxes of spice 
gelatine, etc. Making them of different heighths as wanted. ' 

Cabbage Water. — Be careful that no cabbage water is poured down the 
kitchen-sink, as the smell of it — a singularly unpleasant one — is so strong 
that it will penetrate all over the house, and produce the suspicion of a bad 
drain. The water in which any vegetable has been boiled, should be thrown 
away out of doors, in a distant corner of the garden, if possible. 

Pulverized Charcoal — should be kept in every house in a glass jar with a 
wide mouth, containing a half pint. The coal should be freshly burned— 
the best is not from the hardest or softest wood, but a medium— pulverized 
finely in a mortar while the coals are yet red. Cork tight ; it is invaluable 
in preserving meats and poultry and is sometimes even given as a remedy 
for indigestion. 

A Grate Heater. — One oi tne ^atest cneap conveniences is a neat iron 
plate, large enough to set a coffee or teapot on, which has appendages be- 



998 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 




low which slip over the front bars of a grate, and furnish a place to heat cof- 
fee, tea or water hj the grate fire. This heater may be attached so as to 
project inside over the fire, or outside when the heat would be less intense. 

A Table Heater. — Another ingenious heater is a round piece of solid iron, 
as large as the bottom of a cofi"ee-pot. This is placed on the top of the stove 
and heated, and when the coflfee-pot is placed on the table this heater, set 
in a neat cast-iron basket, supported on three neat legs, takes the placeof a 
table mat and keeps it steaming hot, as the iron holds heat for a long time. 
The basket is constructed so that air circulates under the iron and prevents 
injury to the table. 

Tension Chopping Knife. — In this knife the blades 
are made of fine steel, wrought ver)^ thin, and are 
kept firm by the tension of the frame in which they 
are set. It does very rapid work, and is an excellent 
knife for family use. Most people consider hash a 
very delicious breakfast dish, in spite of all the hits 
newspaper paragraphers have made on it, and a good 
implement for making it is indispensable in every well 
ordered kitchen. The chopping knife is a great saver 
of butchers' bills, and ought to be respected accord- 
ing!" 

TJie Smell of Onions and other odors can be removed from kettles and 
sauce. pans. Put some wood ashes into the utensils, add boiling water, and 
let it stand a short time on the back part of the stove. Or, if you have no 
wood ashes, use potash, soda, or concentrated lye with water, then M^ash in 
hot suds. All cooking utensils in which onions, cabbage, or turnips have 
been cooked should be thus cleansed. 

Polishing. — Flour of emery, which is cheap and is kept at all drug-stores, 
is excellent for polishing every thing except silver. Common water-lime, 
such as is used in plastering cisterns, is an excellent material for polishing 
knives, forks, and tin-ware. First rub tins with a damp cloth, then take dry 
flour and rub it on with the hands, and afterwards take an old newspaper 
and rub the tin until bright. Keep in an old pepper-box, and aonlv with a 
damp cloth. 

Rack for Covers. — There are always neeaed about a kitchen stove or 
range a number of articles, such as tin covers for pots and pans, handles for 
stove covers, etc. There should always be a rack or other convenient place 
on the wall near the stove and within easy reach for all such articles. The 
handle for stove covers is often hung up, but never should be, because it is 
often snatched off in a hurry. A small shelf is better if placed at a conven- 
ient hciglit. Arrange everything about a stove to save time and steps. 

A Good Lantern is a necessity in every house, and a poor 
lantern that is always out of order when wanted, is as much 
a nuisance as a broken umbrella. The form represented here 
burns kerosene oil, and is a cheap, convenient, and in every 
way a good lantern for family use. The lamp is easily filled. 
The tube that surrounds the lamp furnishes the air for com- 
bustion and it is not easily broken or damaged. 

Cupboards. — There ought always to be an iron-ware closet) 
with deep shelves, in the kitchen where the iron-ware can be 
kept out of the dust. For china, glass and silver, if such a lux- 
ury is known, a corner cupboard with glass doors is a pretty 
_ article of furniture, and takes very little available room. Draw- 

ers for napkins and table-clothes and for the children's bibs and aprons are 
also in order. 




KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



999 




Frver and Drainer. 




Fryer and Drainer. — This invention furnishes a con- 
venient method of frying, oysters, potatoes and other 
articles that when done need to be removed quiclcly 
from the boiling fat and drained, while remaining over 
the hot fire, in order to remove all superfluous grease. 
It has a support for the perforated pan which rests in- 
side the frying pan, which may be detached, leaving 
the frying pan a little deeper than those in common use. 

To Wash preserve Jars — Preserve jars or bottles 
should be carefully washed as soon as emptied, taking 
care that the stoppers and covers have their share of 
attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia into the 
jars or bottles, fill up with water, and let stand an hour, 
putting the stoppers or covers into a bowl to soak in _ 
the same way. Then pour out and scald nicely, but not with boiling water, 
as that cracks the polished surface inside, wipe dry, set in the sun or wind 
to air, and then set away carefully. 

A Folding Table. — A folding table is very useful 
in small houses, and even in large houses for many 
purposes. The accompanying cut represents a form 
which is simple, convenient, and easily made by any 
carpenter. It folds up compactly when not in use, 
and when needed may be instantly unfolded and is 
ready for use. When an extra table is needed in 
making up clothing, etc., such a piece of furniture is 
invaluable, and when not in use it does not occupy 
valuable space and get in everybody's way. 

Coffee Syrup. — Take a half pound of the best ground coffee ; put it into a 
saucepan containing three pints of water, and boil it down to one pint ; boil 
the liquor, put it into another sauce-pan, well scoured, and boil it again. 
As it boils add white sugar enough to give the consistency of syrup ; take it 
from the fire', and when it is cool put in a bottle and seal. When traveling 
if you wish for a cup of good coffee put two teaspoons of the syrup into an 
ordinary cup, and pour boiling water upon it, and it is ready to use. 

Spice Box. — The spice box serves the same 
purpose as the rack and cabinet, but is closer 
than either and equally convenient. It has a 
handle on the top and a clasp which fastens 
the lid in place. For keeping spices from 
waste, and for convenience, one of these con- 
trivances is a great addition to a kitchen outfit. 

A Pair of Good Scales is a necessity in 
every well-regulated kitchen. Unfortunately 
for people who always want to get the full 
worth of their money, not every grocer and 
butcher is honest, and when the quality of 
goods is satisfactory there is sometimes a ser- 
ious shortage in weight. A good pair of scales 
is a little detective that does its work quietly and faithfully. If after all al- 
lowance for error that reasonable man could ask, you find weights habitually 
short* it is better and safer to try a new dealer ; but if the dealer knows you 
have a weighing scale and use it, your weights will be full, especially if you 
pay your bills promptly. 




1000 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



Washing Dishes 




In washing dishes, in addition to directions given in 

''Dining Room," care 
must be taken not to put 
tumblers which have had 
milk in them into hot 
water, as it drives the 
milk into the glass, 
whence it can never be 
removed. They should 
be first rinsed well in 
tepid water. Tumblers 
and goblets should be 
Easy Dish Drainer. placcd in hot soapy Water, 

dipping the sides first, and turning them rapidly, thus heating the outside 
and inside at the same time and preventing breaking ; when wiped, they 
should not be turned down until put away in a china closet. It is a very 
nice way to use the easy dish drainer as illustrated. The bottom is spaced 
so as to hold plates upright as represented in cut. The drainer may also be 
used as a bread-cooler, and the same frame, lined with pretty material, 
makes a nice family work basket. 

To Keep Table Clothes Clean — for a long time. After clearing the tablfe, 
place a clean towel under any spots that may have been made during dinner, 
and rub the spot with a fresh clean cloth wet with clean soap-suds, then 
rinse with clean water, dry with a clean dry towel, fold and lay under a 
heavy weight. In changing table cloths during the week, contrive to bring 
the fresh table cloth on first at dinnar. Place a large napkin over each end 
of table cloth, to protect it from soiling in the process in serving the plates, 
removing when the crumbs are brushed. 

To Clean Coffee or Tea-pots. — Musty coffee-pots ana tea-pots may be 
cleaned and sweetened by putting a good quantity of wood ashes into them 
and filling up with cold water. Set on the stove to heat gradually till the 
water boils. Let it boil a short time, then set aside to cool, when the inside 
should be faithfully washed and scrubbed in hot soap-suds, using a small 
brush that every sjiot may be reached ; then scald two or three times, and 
wipe till well di-ied. Pots and pans or plates that have been used for baking 
and grown rancid, may be cleansed in the same way. Put the plates into a 
pan with wood ashes add cold water, and proceed as above stated. If no 
wood ashes can be had, take soda. Pie-plates and baking-dishes cleaned 
after this fashion will keep sweet all the time. 

A Convenient Ash Box. — This can be made of cheap lumber, and of a size 
that the lumber at hand will cut without waste ; seven feet in length by thfee 
feet in width, and four feet high may answer in most 
circumstances. A lid, A, is provided occupying 
nearly one-half of the top, as shown in fig. 1, and 
also a side door B, used for removing the ashes. Two 
strips of board are fastened within and lengthwise 
of the box, upon which the sifter or sieve rests as it 
is shaken, as shown in verticle view, upper figure. 
The sieve, which is an ordinary one, costing perhaps 
twenty-five cents at the store, has a long handle 
fastened to it ; with this the ash box and sifting ap- 
paratus is complete. The advantages claimed for 
this ash box are : The ashes can be sifted without 
making any dust, as when the lid is closed the whole 
is confined within the box. The ashes and sieve 
are kept from exposure to storms, and the latter is always in place and ready 




KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



1001 




for use. It dispenses with a disagreeable looking heap of ashes often found 
on exhibition the year round, and lastly it is cheaply and easily made. As 
the structure is of wood, care should be taken that there be no live coals among 
the ashes when they go to the ash box. A coat of paint will add to the ap- 
pearance of this useful and economical article. 

The Dover Broiler.— K good deal of ingenuity has been exhausted in va- 
rious inventions for broiling_meat easily and quickly, and leaving housewives 

no excuse for using the dyspepsia- 
producing, old-fashioned frying pan, 
and there are several good ones in 
the market. The latest candidate for 
favor hails from Boston, and is well 
represented in the engraving. The 
meat is placed between the bars of a 
reversible wire broiler, and set up- 
right inside the tin or Russia iron 
case, the cover to which slides over 
the handles and keeps in all the heat. 
The case has no bottom, but is made 
in several sizes to fit the holes of the 
various sizes of stoves. The meat is 
thus subjected to great heat without 
danger of burning. A spout is ar- 
ranged to catch all the juices as they 
flow, and carries them to a little pan 
provided for the purpose. Great care 
must be taken not to remove a cover or open the stove door while the broil- 
ing is going on, or the smoke will rush up into the broiler. "With care to avoid 
this, not a particle of smoke reaches the meat. 

The White Mountain Freezer. — This freezer is the best in the market, and 
will give satisfaction to every purchaser. It has three motions. The center 
beater shaft has lifter arms, or floats, which 
iTiix the cream in the middle, turning oppo- 
site the outside beater. The outside beater 
scrapes the cream ofl" the can and has floats 
extending to inside beater, which throws the 
cream to the center, when it is thrown back 
by the inside beater to the outside, the can in 
the meantime turning in an opposite direction 
making three similtaneous motions, thus 
mixing the cream thoroughly and evenly. 
These beaters are of maleable iron and coated 
with pure block tin. 

Single beater Freezers do not mix the 
cream evenly because there is no opposite 
motion, and the cream goes around with the 
beater. It is the same principle of rinsing by putting your hands into a pail 
of water and moving it around, the water goes with the hand for the reason 
there is no opposite obstruction to prevent. In the Tripple Motion Freezer 
the arms or floats pass each other and the cream must be better worked. 

The beater, are light and easy to clean, but single beater freezers have 
large beaters, which fill up the can and are hard to clean, and must necessa- 
rily waste cream. This freezer has no large surfaces of zinc in contact with 
the cream, but tin instead. Families especially look to this, as freezers put 
away damp, will, when dry, show oxide of zinc, which is a well-known poison. 




1002 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



The can is moved from the bottom, and while at work the cover can be 
removed, showing its operation clearly. Other freezers are so constructed 
that the cover actuates the can, and cannot be removed while working. 

The cover of the White Mountain Freezer does not have to be adjusted 
to a particular place, but fits anywhere upon the can, and being loose can be 
taken off easily without pulling the can out of the ice. 

Soldering Liquid. — In soldering tin-ware, especially in mending old ware, 
the use of soldering liquids will greatly help. There are several of these. 
The best is made as follows : Get any convenient vial about half tull of mu- 
riatic acid ; procure at the tin shop some scraps of sheet zinc ; if you have no 
strong shears, let the tin-smith cut the zinc in strips narrow enough to enter 
the vial. Place the vial out doors, or under a shed, and add a strip or two of 
zinc. _ A great bubbling or boiling will take place as the zinc dissolves. As 
one piece of zinc dissolves add another, and when a piece remains without 
any action or bubbling of the liquid, it is done. Fit to the lower end of the 
cork a piece of stick to reach into the liquid ; after the liquid is perfectly quiet, 
cork it. In soldering, wet the place where the solder is to go, with this liquid ; 
the drop or two that the stick will take up is enough. Do not get this liquid 
on the clothing, or on the skin, as it may irritate it and make it feel very rough. 

Dish Cloths, Wipers, Table Linens, Eic. — Roller towels for the hands 
should be marked with the number of each, and also with the whole num- 
ber; as 1-6, 2-6, etc., where the whole number is sis. This shows at once 
the whole number to be accounted for, and also makes it easy to use them 
in rotation, so that they may be worn equally. Of dish cloths, of which 
there should be six — two for the best dishes, two for greasy, and two for pots 
and kettles, the first two may be marked, "B-1-2" and "B-2-2;" the second 
two, "G-1-2" and G-2-1 ;" the third, "P-1-2" and "P-2-2." Wfping towels, 
of which there should be six, two to be used each week, washing every day, 
may be mnTked in a similar way, which is equally good for napkins, table 
cloths, clo&s for silver, etc. Never buy new cloth for dish cloths or wipers ; 
buy Stevens' crash (or any other linen crash) for towels; when worn soft, 
take for dish-cloths and wipers ; keep whole for dish wipers, and cut one of 
a yard in length into three, hem and place in kitchen for dish-cloths, you 
thus have one for pots and kettles, one for dishes, and one to wipe a knife, 
fork or spoon that you may be using while cooking, for the wipers should 
never be used for this purpose. 

Water. — Pure water is as necessary to health as pure air. Rain-water, 
filtered to remove any foreign matters caught from the roof or in the smoky 
atmosphere, is the purest attainable. It is a debatable question whether the 
mineral matters held in solution in hard water are injurious to health, but 
vegetable or animal matters are agreed by all chemists to be injurious, and, 
in many cases, rank poisons, breeding fatal fevers, and other violent diseases. 
Water that is at all doubtful, should be boiled before drinking, as the vege- 
table and animal matters are thus destroyed, and the mineral deposited on 
the bottom of the kettle. Wells, even in the country, are very doubtful 
sources from which to procure a supply of pure water. In cities the sources 
of well-supply are almost invariably poisoned by the numerous cesspools, 
vaults and drains that filter through the earth until they reach the under- 
ground streams of water, poisoning them as surely as they would a surface 
stream or pond. When it is remembered that all water in wells must come 
first from the surface, and that it dissolves all sorts of filth as it passes into 
the earth, carrying a good deal with it, particularly if the soil is sandy and 
porous, it will be readily understood that wells are apt to furnish impure 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1003 




water as surely as if they scattered arsenic. Wells should be covered to ex- 
clude all leaves and vegetable matter. The ground should slope away from 
the well so as to carry away surface water, and it should 
be located as far as possible from barns and out-buildings 
where filth accumulates. There are various good filters 
in the market, but one may be easily and cheaply made 
jas illustrated : Take a large flower pot, and insert a 
sponge in the hole in the bottom, fill the pot with alter- 
nate layers of sand, charcoal, and small pebbles. The 
flower pot thus filled up may then be placed on a jar or 
other convenient vessel, into which the water can be re- 
ceived as it filters through. Never use hot water drawn 
from a lead pipe, but take the cold and heat it on the 
stove. 

To Cleanse Filters. — In order to be safe and efficient, a filter requires 
cleansing every few weeks or months according to the amount of water fil- 
tered and its quality. "When ordinary cistern water is used, a filter should 
not be used longer than six months without cleansing, and if a large amount 
of water is used, not more than half that time. The sponge should be 
cleansed and scalded at least two or three times a week. The charcoal 
should be renewed every time a filter is cleansed. Fresh charcoal may be 
Used or the old may be renewed by heating to redness in a close vessel, ex- 
cluding air. The gravel and sand and the inside of the filter vessel reser- 
voir for filtered and unfiltered water, should be thoroughly cleansed when- 
ever the filter is taken apart for cleansing. The surest way to secure thoi^ 
Ough cleansing is to boil the gravel and sand in a large kettle or wash boiler 
for half an hour, rinsing out the filtering vessels with boiling water. After 
fihsing all well with clean water, wash everything with a strong solution of 
permanganate of i:>otash and caustic potash. Asolution of the permanganate 
and four of crude caustic potash in a pailful of water will be sufficient for an 
ordinary filter. If the permanganate solution becomes brown by the wash- 
ing more must be used, until a pinkish color remains when the gravel is 
rinsed. This will indicate that all impurities are removed. A few gallons 
of water will snffice to rinse away the remains of the permanganate, and the 
filter may be repacked as before, with fresh charcoal as directed. The closer 
the filtering medium if packed, the slower the water will filter through, but 
the more perfect will be the purification. 

How to Kindle A Coal Fire. — Hard coal will not ignite until it is thor- 
oughly heated through and through, and as small coal will not require as 
much wood to heat it up as large, it is important, where the supply of 
kindling wood is limited, that the pieces of coal which touch the wood 
should be small. As wood in cities is more expensive than coal, economy 
suggests the use of as little as practicable. The coal, then, for kindling, 
should not only be as small as a pigeon's egg, called "chestnut coal" by the 
dealers but to economize the wood, the pieces should not be over four inches 
jong, so that they can be laid compactly, and the heat more concentrated 
on a given point of coal, and thus the sooner heat it through. If the wood 
is thus placed, and is covered with one layer of chestnut coal, it will redden 
with great rapidity and certainty. Now cover the reddened coal with an- 
other layer or two, and in a minute or two put on the large size. Put a 
handful of shavings or paper in a grate compactly, then some splinters of 
dry wood, not larger than the little finger, and outside of that a layer of 
pieces an inch or more thick and three or four long ; apply a match to the 
paper, and while it is catching put on small coal as above, and there will 
not be a failure during the winter, nor a growl in the household, for the 



1004 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



want of a good and timely fire. To lessen a coal fire, press it from the top, 
so as to make the mass more compact, giving less room for air. To revive 
it, lay on small pieces tenderly ; put on the blower, and when red, add larger 
pieces, and riddle out from below. Heaping on more coal, or letting out 
the ashes below, will certainly put out a low coal fire. 

How To Use Coal Economically. — The Scientific American says : There is 
a great want of intelligence regarding the burning of coal, and it is not to be 
expected that servants should know how to save it. The grate or range is 
stuffed so full that the oven-top is loaded with it, so the fire will not die out 
or need looking after; then the draft is opened, and the money, or what is the 
same, the heat, goes flying up the chimney. With a little forethought all 
this could be prevented, and a ton of coal made to last three months instead 
of one. A good bright fire can be steadily maintained with coal, with less 
trouble than with any other kind of fuel, but not by raking, poking, and piling 
in green fuel continually. After breakfast the fire should be cleared of ashes, 
if there are any, and fresh fuel put on to fill the grate moderately. Let the 
oven damper be turned up so as to heat it, and leave the small top door open, 
more or less, according to the intensity of heat required. In this way air en- 
ters over the toj) of the fire, and maintains a far better combustion, and con- 
sequently greater heat than when the draft-dampers are thrown down. A 
washing can be done, or "ironing" accomplished with one-third less coal 
than is generally thought necessary to use. There is also great waste in 
throwing away half-burned coal under the impression that it is cinders. One 
who has experimented with coal for twenty years, both in the house and un- 
der the boiler, writes : In cleaning the grate in the morning you will find 
there is a quantity of unburned coal, which has been externally subjected to 
combustion. It is covered with ashes, and looks to the inexperienced eye 
like cinder. It is often relentlessly dumped into the ash-box. The fact, in 
many cases, is, that the lump is only roasted on the outside, not even coked, 
and is in a better condition for igniting than the fresh coal. We have stated 
that cosili^ & condensed form of carbon. The superficially burned lumps, 
found in our grates or among our ashes, sufficiently prove this. But take a 
lump of anthracite coal from the fire, red-hot and all alive, throw it into the 
water until the ashes are washed from it, and it is black externally and cool. 
Take it out and break it open with a hammer, and you will find it red-hot and 
glowing inside. This shows that time, and a pleantiful supplly of air are 
necessary to burn coal, and that large amounts of what we call ashes and 
cinders are really excellent fuel. To prove this fact, let any one carefully 
sift his ashes, throwing out the inevitable slate, which can be readily detect- 
ed, and start his coal fire on wood or charcoal, kindling his coal fire with the 
savings. He will find that he can get a good bed of incandescent coal sooner 
than with green coal on the kindlings. Never, whether rich or poor, suffer 
cinders or unburned bits of coal to be wasted in the ash-barrel. Measure for 
measure, they are worth more than coal. Save them, soak them, try them. 
Water renovates the coke, and wet cinders upon a hot coal fire will make it 
hotter, and keep it so longer than fresh coal. Saving cinders is not mean- 
ness, it is economy. 

Flavoring Extracts, Fruit Juices, etc. — The following directions for the 
preparation at home of extracts, etc., are contributed by a trustworthy and 
reliable dealer, and may be relied upon. Of flavoring extracts put up for the 
general market, almond and peach are seldom pure, and are sometimes even 
poisonous. The other kinds are less liable to be adulterated. To prepare 
Vanilla, take one ounce of fresh vanilla beans, cut fine, and rub thoroughly 
with two ounces granulated sugar, put in a pint bottle, and pour over it four 
ounces pure water, and ten ounces of ninety-five per cent deoderized alcohol. 
Set in a warm place, and shake occasionally for fourteen days. To make Vu' 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



1005 



nilla Sugar take one pound sugar and one ounce Mexican vanilla bean. Cut 
bean very une, pound in a mortar, with the su^ar, to a fine powder, like flour, 
sift it, grind the remainder and sift till all is done ; then bottle and cork. It 
will keep forany length of time. A wire sieve will allow the seeds of the bean, 
which show the purity of the flour, to pass through with the powdered sugar. 
For Lemon, cut in small pieces the rinds of two lemons put in a four-ounce 
bottle and fill with deoderized strong alcohol, set in a warm place for a week ; 
then put two drams fresh oil of lemon, four ounces of deodorized strong alco- 
hol, and the juice of half a lemon, in a bottle of sufiicient size to hold all ; 
then strain in the tincture of lemon peal. To make Orange, use the rind and 
oil of orange, as directed for lemon. To make Rose, put one ounce of red rose 
leaves in one pint of deodorized alcohol, let stand eight days ; press out the 
liquid from the leaves, and add it to a half dram of otto of roses. Oils must 
be fresh and pure, or the extract will have a turpentine taste; and always 
use deodorized alcohol. For fruit juices, select ripe fruit, press out juice, and 
strain it through flannel ; to each pint of juice, add six ounces pure granulat- 
ed sugar, put in a porcelain kettle, bring to boiling point, and bottle while 
hot, in two or four ounce bottles. Canned fruit juice may be used in the 
same way. These juices are a perfect substitute for brandy, wine, etc., in all- 
puddings, and sauces, etc. To filter water and alcoholic solutions_(not syrups) 
pass through filtering paper, folded in conical form, so as to set into a funnel 
(a half-pint glass funnel is best.) The paper is kept at all drug stores. 

Flour and Bread. — A wonderful advance has been made in the manu- 
facture of flour. Before the discovery of the gradual reduction or "New 
process" in milling, white flour contained but a part of the nutriment of the 
wheat kernel, the starch remaining, while the 
muscle-making and brain-feeding gluten went 
into the bran and other waste products and was 
sold for feed. Winter wheat was then used for 
the best grades of flour, the small, dark and hard 
kernels of the Northern grown Spring wheat mak- 
ing so dark a flour that it was only sold as an in- ^=..=,„^ 
ferior grade. The introducing the "new process" w-hl^ Kernel. 
by which the grain is gradually reduced to flour by passing through a set of 
steel rollers, each of which crushes the grain a little finer than the last, not 
only revolutionized milling, but produced from the heretofore despised 
Spring wheat, the finest fiour in the world which sells in all markets at the 
highest price, makes finer bread and several loaves more to the barrel than 
the best product of Winter wheat. In the day of Graham, who advocated 
unbolted flour, it was true that the loaf of white bread did not contain much 
of the most valuable nutrition of the wheat. The white flour of modern 
milling does contain all that is valuable. The bran left by the "new pro- 
cess" contains Ifttle that is valuable in anj'^ way as food. The only advant- 
age gained by eatfng corn bread, is the evidence of concentrated food, but 
fruit and vegetables would supply the bulk required much bet- 
ter than the harsh and flinty and, to many, irritating particles of 
bran. Modern white flour possesses a much larger proportion 
of phosphates and gluten than the old fashioned Graham ; indeed 
more than the wheatitself . There is, however, a great difference 
of opinion as to the comparative merits of bread made from fine 
flour, and Graham, or whole wheat flour. The latter is consid- 
'C^ '^rf\'^ ered best for persons who lead sedentary lives, as the coarse par- 
W '^^ tides stimulate the digestive organs, causing the fluids to flow- 
more freely; while for those who follow active, out of door pursuits the New 
Process flour is probably best as being more nutritious and economical, be- 
cause wholly digested. 




1006 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 




This "new process" of milling was first perfected in this country at Min- 
neapolis, Minnesota, the mills of which now have a capacity of 35,000,000 
bushels of wheat annually, and the brands of Minneapolis flour are known in 
every market in the world as the best. Nearly a million and a quarter barrels 
of flour are being exported yearly. The wheat from which this flour is made 
is the hard spring wheat, raisfd in the extreme North, that raised south of 
Minnesota and Dakota being inferior, and most of it not available for the best 
grades, while that raised on the line of the Northern Pacific, and in the rich 
valley of the Red River of the North, makes the very highest grades of flour. 
This hard wheat is first passed through rollers and mashed ; then to stones, 
which are run at a low rate of speed, and so dressed that the grinding is nearly 
all done near the outer edge of the stone, the ''runner" being set high, so as 
not to heat the flour, but to leave it in hard, sharp globules. From this stone 
it is conveyed to a series of bolts, where the bran is separated, the softer and 
finer particles being passed through and put up as lower grades of flour, 
known as "All-Wheat Flour." The coarser particles and "midlings" are sep- 
arated by this process, and conveyed to the purifiers, where they are thor- 
oughly cleaned of all bran and impurities ; after which, they go to the stones 
to be reground and rebolted, and thus made into the "New' Process Flour." 
These middlings are mainly from the outer portion of the 
kernel, which lies immediately below the flinty and worth- 
less husk (which goes off in bran) and is rich in the nutri- 
tious gluten — the nitrogenous principle of wheat Avhich 
makes it rank first as a "force producing" food. Before 
the introduction of this process, the stones were driven at 
a high rate of speed, and the wheat thoroughly ground by i: i it 
the first run through the mill, the flour coming out quite i'i^ 
hot, and much of its strength lost by the heating. The comparative rate of 
speed may be known by the fact that only five bushels are ground per hour 
by the new process ; while, with the old, from fifteen to eighteen would have 
been consumed. By the old process, the "middlings" made a second rate 
dark flour; by the new, it is transformed into the best known to the trade. 

That this flour is the most economical for use, there is no doubt among 
those who have tried it. The hard spring wheat makes a much stronger flour 
than any of the soft varieties of spring or winter wheat, because it contains 
a larger portion of glutten and less starch ; and a given quantity will make 
from fifteen to twenty per cent, more loaves of bread of the same size and 
weight than the best winter wheat flour. This fact is what has given Min- 
nesota bakers' grades their popularity. Another advantage possessed by 
this flour, especially for family use, is that bread from it does not become 
stale and dry as soon as that made from winter wheat, but retains its mois- 
ture and good table qualities much longer. 

The following in regard to the New Process Flour is from George H. 
Christian, Esq., who has spent years in studying the best methods in use in 
this country and Europe, and is the largest manufacturer in the United 
States. 

"In regard to the economy of the New Process Flour, made from Min- 
nesota spring wheat, it is claimed, and I believe has been established, that 
the best qualities will make forty or fifty pounds of bread to the barrel more 
than flour from the best quality of wiiiter wheat. This is explained by its 
superior affinity for water which, being held in that much greater quantity 
in the bread, insures its keeping moist for a longtime. The authorities give 
the chemical analysis as 20 parts glutten, 50 parts starch, 10 parts dextrme, 
glucose, etc., 5 parts salts, fatty material, etc., and 15 parts water, for flour 
made from the best Minnesota spring wheat by the new process. The above 
pereentage of glutten is nearly double that of flour made from the soft vari- 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. ^^^' 



firm and gives it Bufficient consistency to hold the gases, geneiatea uy ibx 
nSSn long enough to make it rise well, and ensure a light palatable 
bread It'is well known also that bread from spring wheat is ^^eeter The 
pe?centa'4 of gluten in New Process Flour is more than in flour made of the 

^^"ln"£lr'o'cet\f mSSn mlm not only is every Wp substance re- 
...oved from the wheat, but every individual kernel is rubbed clean by an 
Sreniou"arrang:ment'of bruslis, which -ours away ever^ parU^^^ o 
A\vf tlvit adheres to it. There is probably no article of tooa requueu m 
hotekelpt^so^isoiutelyandperf^^ 

from the milt. Dishonest dealers may adulterate it, but it ought not to ue 
dXult to bring it in unbroken packages with the brand of t^e m 11 on then 
^ff Guarantee Sf puritv, as most mills now put the flour up m neat halt bar- 
Ssfor amUySsI^^^ Another flour which makes palataWe and ^vl^^^^^ 

i-,-Tirl flqnsnallv found in the market is unfit for food, it is maue oi lub 
iS>restQuX of wheat, mixed with foul seeds, and.ground in a crude way 
S ith nonrof the clre and neatness which characterizes the Process of mak- 
^ fi ^ fl^!;r- ThprP are mills however, like those atDansville, Mew York, 

[Xeid mSr The requent use of either gives variety in the bread-sup- 
pW and "arie"|i3 wholesome and appetising in bread as well as other table 

S?£r,t!S^yt\"r'Xe'r^'Sat-irl"m»S^:"n.S« 

X'tirf|f£i-fl£fo™^^^ 

the yeast, in lermeni^, flo^r. and carbonic acid gas and alcohol are 

'^^n;;tlT The gas t e^^ i^ confined b| the elastic, strong 

Tin whi<.h forms the walls of the cells in which it is held, its; expansion 



1008 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



loses one-sixth of its weight by the escape of these through the pores of the 
bread. Some of the starch changes into gum, the cells of the rest are broken 
by the heat, the gluten is softened and made tender, and the bread is in the 
condition most easily acted upon by the digestive fluids. 

Cider Vinegar can be made easily and quickly if the following directions 
are followed : When cider is made, save the pomace and put it in tight bar- 
rels or hogs-heads, with one head out, and put in enough rainwater to cover 
it. After it has begun to ferment, draw off from the bottom all that you can, 
dilute the cider with it, and nearly two barrels of vinegar can be made of one 
of cider. Do not fill barrels in which the cider is to be made quite full, as 
there should be a space for air. Put into each barrel one or two pounds of 
bread dough, in the condition it is iu when kneeding out into loaves. Once 
a day, for a few wee^s, draw out from each barrel a gallon of the cider and 
pour it into the bung-hole, so as to get air iiito it. A quart or two of molasses 
are recommended as a help, and beech shavings and brown paper are often 
used to hasten the acetic fermentation ; but we think the bread dough is best. 
If the vinegar is made in summer, it may be made out of doors ; but late in 
the fall it should be in a room where the temperature can be kept up to 70 or 
80 degrees by stove heat. For quick cider vinegar, fill a jug with cider, and 
turn into each gallon of cider a pint of molasses and a cupful of lively soft 
yeast, or two tablespoons of Brookside yeast. Have the jug full of the liquid, 
let it stand uncorked back of the cook-stove where it will keep warm. It will 
commence fermenting in twenty-four hours, and will not take over a week to 
make splendid sharp vinegar. It must be drawn ofi" into another jug, leaving 
the dregs, and kept in a tight-corked jug or bottles, where it will not freeze. 

The Brookside Yeast is made by sitrring together three tablespoons mash- 
ed potatoe tablespoon white sugar, level teaspoon salt and quarter of a yeast 
cake, soften sufficient to mix well. After mixing place in an earthen bowl or 
jar cover with a saucer, and place in a place of a moderate temperature, ready 
for use next day, but will keep a week or more in summer, and three or four 
weeks in winter. To make more take a tablespoon of above and add it to 
1 hree or four times above recipe omitting the yeast cake. This is never failing 
and very easily made and kept. 

Corn Vinegar. — Boil one pint shelled corn in one gallon rain water till 
the grains burst, put in a stone jar with the water in which it was boiled, 
adding sufiicient rain water to make a gallon. Add pint of syrup (sugarcane 
is best as it is not so likely to be adulterated) and tie a piece of cheese cloth, 
or two thicknesses of mosqueto netting over jar. Keep in a warm place one 
month, then pour off vinegar in a jug, putting in half the mother and it is 
ready for use. More can be made of same corn, by covering it with rain water, 
adding the half of the mother and a gill of syrup and let stand as above one 
month. Tie a thin cloth over jug of vinegar instead of corking it and keep in 
a dry place not too cold. This costs about seven cents a gallon and is said to 
be richer and jjetter flavored than the best cider vinegar and is equally good 
for most purposes. 

Economical Vinegar. — After washing the fruit, discarding all that is rot- 
ten, place the pealings of apples, pears, peaches or quinces in a stone crock. 
If you use any crab apples, put them in too ; boil pure rain water and pour 
hot over them ; if in cold weather they can stand several weeks then place 
in a porcelain kettle, covering them with water to the depth of two inches ; 
set on stove, let them boil for half an hour, strain through a cullender, let the 
juice stand until it settles, then add enough molasses to make a pleasant 
taste ; now pour it into the keg or vinegar barrel that has been prepared with 
a hole for faucet in the end of the barrel at the lower side, made the size of 
faucet ; it should be one inch from the stave, bo that it can be easily cleansed 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1009 



with a wet cloth wrapped around the finger and passed under the faucet. 
The bung hole ought to be in the upper side of barrel equally distant from 
each end. Take cork out of bung hole, or if none in barrel make one, and 
cover it with a piece of mosqueto netting or other very thin material ; paste 
can be put around the hole, and the cloth put on it, or tack it on with small 
tacks — either will do, for you have to lift up one corner so as to place the fun- 
nel in when you wish to add more juice. Here in Minnesoto, many apples 
are used in the winter. All the pealings and cores can be saved, by placing 
them in a crock, pouring water over them, keeping them until crock is full. 
Then boil and proceed as above. Add one pint alcohol to eight or ten gallons 
of juice, or if you can get boiled cider add one gallon of that. If starting the 
vinegar in ::he fall while making jelly, marmalade, etc., save all the waste 
juices, place in a crock and add to the vinegar. If you can get a little "mother" 
from an old keg of vinegar, it helps start it more quickly, or put a cup of good 
sponge made ready for bread into a four gallon jar of juice, letting jar stand 
in the sun with a thin cloth tied over it for a few weeks ; then pour into keg. 
In putting the juice into keg let some of the settlings run in, as this furnishes 
yeast for the vinegar. If you have a large quantity of juice to start with, agood 
proportion is to eight or ten gallons of juice take one gallon of molasses, one 
pint alcohol. If at any time it needs more sweet, you can add molasses. 
Cold tea can be added, but never coffee, as that makes the color too dark. 
After the meal is over, fill the teapot with hot water, set on stove to steep ; 
when sufficiently steeped pour into the vinegar. The excellence of the vine- 
gar is that you know all the ingredients in it, and of every apple that is eaten 
the peeling can be used. Teach the help to save all the peelings when she 
makes apple or peach sauce, and even when one or two apples are pared save 
the peeling. 

A young housekeeper once had half a barrel of excellent vinegar, which 
her husband had brought from the store. As it was old and had many set- 
tlings in it, she thought she would cleans it, so pouring it out, she rinsed her 
barrel thoroughly with hot water, then strained the vinegar through a flan- 
nel cloth, and replaced it in the barrel. Some time afterward she drew out 
some of the vinegar, but it had lost all its good taste and was covered with a 
white scum. She was sorely vexed, but an old friend coming in at the time, 
told her she had thrown away the life of the vinegar. Had she kept some of 
the settlings (which is the yeast of the vinegar) and the mother, putting them 
in the barrel when she replaced the vinegar, all would have been right. Hap- 
pily her friend had plenty of old vinegar and gave her a pail of settlings and 
mother to add to the vinegar. In years mother will accumulate, so that it is 
necessary to throw some away. In such cases alwa)^s keep some of the large 
pieces of mother and some of the floating particles (a funny writer has called 
this the father), and some settlings to put in the vinegar, after it is returned 
to the barrel. While the vinegar is making it should never be more than half 
full ; after it is good vinegar small quantities of juice, either hot or cold, can 
be added until the barrel is two-thirds full. A better way is to have a second 
keg into which pour the fresh juices with a little molasses, (but no alcohol), 
and as the good vinegar is used out of the barrel it can be replenished from 
keg. Or, having no keg, draw off one or two gallons or good vinegar into a 
jug for immediate use, then add the fresh juices, as you may have it, to bar- 
rel. By the time vinegar in jug is used all will have become good in barrel 
and readv for use. These things remembered and practiced will always in- 
sure goocl vinegar. Sometimes vinegar barrel will leak around the chine, 
when it is inconvenient to change barrel. To stop the leak, take equal parts 
of tallow (beef or mutton) and wood ashes. Mix well (in cold weather you 
may have to warm the tallow), then with a narrow bladed knife spread it 
around the chine, pressing it firmly into the crack and making it smooth on 
surface. This has kept vinegar from leaking for months and years. If 



1010 KITCHEN AVRINKLES. 



wanted extra nice clarify molasses by heating it over the fire and pour in one 
pint of sweet milk to each gallon of molasses. The impurities rise in scum 
to thetop, which must be skimmed off before the boiling breaks it. Add 
the milk as soon as molasses is placed over the fire, mixing thoroughly 
with it. 

Gooseberry Vinegar. — Wash two pecks quite ripe gooseberries in a tub 
with a mallet and add six gallons water, about milk warm ; let stand twenty- 
four hours, then strain through a sieve, add twelve pounds sugar, stir well, 
and put in nine-gallon cask ; if not quite full more water must be added. Stir 
the mixture from bottom of cask two or three times daily for three or four 
days, to assist the melting of the sugar ; then paste a piece of linen cloth over 
the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, but not in the sun ; any cor- 
ner of a warm kitchen is the best place for it. The following spring it would 
be drawn off into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve 
months after it is made. This will be found a most excellent preparation, 
greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine 
vinegar. Many years' experi'iuce has proved that pickle made with this 
vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. 
The cost -per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who have their 
own fruit. Let remain in cask nine months. 

Rhubarb Vinegar. — For ten gallons, take twenty-five ordinary stalks of 
rhubarb, pound or crush with a piece of wood in bottom of a strong tub, add 
ten gallons water ; let stand twenty-four hours ; strain off" the crushed rhu- 
barb, and add eighteen pounds sugar free from molasses, and a teacup best 
brewer's yeast; raise the temperature to 65 or 68°, and put the compound in 
a twelve-gallon cask and keep where the temperature will nof fall below 60°. 
In a month strain it off from the grounds, returning to the cask again, and 
let stand till it becomes vinegar. 

Sauer Kraut. — Slice cabbage fine on a slaw-cutter; line the bottom and 
sides of an oaken barrel or keg with cabbage leaves, put in a layer of the 
sliced cabbage about six inches in depth, sprinkle lightly with salt, and 
pound with a wooden beetle until the cabbage is a compact mass ; add an- 
other layer of cabbage, etc., repeating the operation, pounding well each 
layer, until the barrel is full to within six inches of the top ; cover with 
leaves, then a cloth, next a board cut to fit loosely on the inside of barrel, 
kept well down with a heavy weight. If the brine has not raised within two 
days, add enough water, with just salt enough to taste, to cover the cabbage ; 
examine every two days, and add water as before, until brine raises and 
scum forms, when lift off cloth carefully so that the scum may adhere, wash 
well in several cold waters, wring dry and replace, repeating this operation 
as the scum arises, at first every other day, and then once a week, until the 
aceteous fermentation ceases, which will take from three to six weeks. Up 
to this time keep warm in the kitchen, then remove to a dry, good cellar, 
unless made early in the fall, when it may be at once set in the pantry or 
cellar. One pint of salt to a full barrel of cabbage is a good proportion ; 
some also sprinkle in whole black pepper. Or, to keep until summer : In 
April squeeze out of brine, and pack tightly with the hands, in a stone jar, 
with tlie bottom lightly sprinkle with salt, make brine enough to well cover 
the kraut in the proportion of a tablespoon salt to a quart of water; boil, 
skim, cool, and pour over; cover with cloth, then a plate, weight, and an- 
other cloth tied closely down ; keep in a cool place, and it will be good in 
June, Neither pound nor salt the cabbage too much, watch closely, and 
keep clear from scum for good sauerkraut. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1011 



EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Aspic. — A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, 
poultry, fish, etc. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the bird 
which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for decorating 
or garnishing. 

Assiette (plate). — Assiettes are the small entrees and hors d'seuvres, the 
quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert, fruits, 
cheese, chestnuts, etc., if served upon a plate, are termed assiettes. Assiette 
Volante is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed 
upon the table. Small cheese souffles, and different dishes which ought to 
be served very hot, are frequently made assiettes volantes. 

Au-bleu. — Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance. 

"Augratin." — Dishes prepared with sauce and crumbs, 'and baked. * 

Au Naturel. — Plain, simple cookery. 

Bain-marie, — An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in 
which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very 
useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or quality. If 
you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes 
too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces ; but this is prevented 
by using the bain-marie, in which the water should be very hot, but not 
boiling. 

"Baba." — A peculiar, sweet French yeast cake. 

Batterie de Cuisine. — Complete set of cooking apparatus. 

Bechamel. — French white sauce, now frequently used in cookery. 

"Bisque." — A white soup made of shell-fish. 

Blanch. — To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, etc., by plunging them 
into boiling water for a short tiine, and afterwards plunging them into cold 
water, there to remain until they are cold. 

Blanquette. — A sort of fricasse. 

"Bouchees" — Very tiny patties or cakes, as name indicates — mouthfuls. 

Bouilli. — Beef or other meat boiled ; but, generally speaking, boiled beef 
is understood by the term. 

Bouillie — A French dish resembling hasty-pudding. 

Bouillon. — A thin broth or soup. 

Bouquet of Herbs. — Parsley, thyme, and green onions, tied together. 

"Braise'' — Meat cooked in a closely covered stew-pan, so that it retains 
its own flavor, and those of the vegetables and flavoring put witii it. It is 
sometimes previously blanched. 

Braisiere. — A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top, 

Brider.—To pass a packthread through poultry, game, etc., to keep to- 
gether their members. 

"Brioche" — A very rich, unsweetened French cake, made with yeast. 

"Cannelon" — Stuflfed, rolled up meat. 



1012 KITCHEN AVRINKLES. 



Caramel (burnt sugar). — This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size 
of a nut, browned in the Ijottona of a saucepan ; upon which a cupful of stock 
is gradually poured, stirring all the time, little by little. It may be used 
with the feather of a quill, to colour meats, such as the upper part of frican- 
deaux ; and to impart color to sauces. Caramel made with water instead of 
stock may be used to color compotes and other entremets. 

Casserole. — A crust of rice, which after having been molded into the 
form of a pie, is baked and then filled with a fricasse of white meat or a 
puree of game. 

Collops. — Small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish, beaten 
with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender. 

Compote. — A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. 

Consomme. — Rich stock, or gravy, or clear soup or bullion boiled down 
till very rich — i. e., consumed. 

Coulis. — A rich brown gravy, emploj'ed for flavoring, coloring, and 
thickening certain soups and sauces. 

Croquette. — Ball of fried rice and potatoes, or a savory mince of fish or 
fowl, made with sauce into chapes and fried. 

Croutons. — Sippets of bread. 

Croustades. — Fried forms of bread to serve minces or other meats upon. 

Datibiere. — An oval stewpan in which daubes are cooked ; dauhes being 
meat or fowl stewed in sauce. 

Desosser. — To bone, or take out the bone from poultry, game, or fish. 
This is an operation requiring considerable experience. 

En Couronne. — Said of chops, cutlets, etc., when they are arranged round 
a central mass of vegetables, as mashed potatoes, or rice, which they en- 
compass after the manner of a garland or wreath. 

Entrees. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course. 

Entremets. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course. 

Feuilletage. — Puff paste. 

Flamber. — To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked. 

Foncer. — To put iftthe bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin 
broad slices of bacon. 

Fondue. — A light preparation of melted cheese. 

Fondant. — Sugar boiled, and beaten to creamy paste. 

Fricassee. — Chickens, etc., cut in pieces, in a white sauce, with truffles, 
mushrooms, etc.-, as accessories. 

Galette. — A broad thin cake. 

Gateau. — A cake, correctly speaking ; but used sometimes to denote a 
pudding, and a kind of tart. 

Gauffres. — A light spongy sort of biscuit. 

Glacer. — To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and 
rich sauce or gravy, called glaze. This is laid on with a feather or brush ; 
and in confectionery the term means to ice pastry and fruit with icing which 
glistens on hardening. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. IQIS 



Glaze.— Stock boiled down to the thickness of jelly and employed to im- 
prove the look of braised dishes. 

Gratin. — A French force-meat usually of poultry. 

Hollandaise Sauce. — A rich sauce, some'thing like hot mayonnaise. 

Hors D'Oenveses.— Small dishes or assiettes volantes of sardines, anchovies 
and other relishes of this kind served during the first course. 

Lit.— A bed or layer ; articles in thin slices are placed in layers other 
articles or seasoning, being laid between them. 

Maigre.— Broth, soup or gravy made without meat. 

Marinade.— A liquor of spices, vinegar in which fish and meats are 
steeped without cooking. 

Maletole.— A rich fish stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels, or 
trout. It is generally made with wine. 

Mayonnaise. — A rich salad dressing or sauce. 

Menu. — Bill of fare. 

Meringue.— A kind of icing, made of white of eggs and sugar well beaten. 

Mir of on. —J^arger slices of meat than collops ; such as slices of beef for a 
vinargrette or ragout or stew of onions and dished in circular form. 

Mouilier. — To add water broth or other liquid during the cooking. 

Nougat. — Almonds candied. 

Pouer.— To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meat, or any ar- 
ticles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying pan. 

Pate. — A small pie. 

Piece De Resistance. — The principal joint of the dinner. 

Requer. — To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meats, etc. 
This should always be done according to the vein of the meat so that in 
carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat. 

Poelee.— Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads 
fowls and vegetables, to render them less insipid. " ""' 

Poulette Sauce. — A bechamel sauce, to which white wine and sometimes 
eggs are added. 

Puree. — Vegetables or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp which is af- 
terwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of thick 
soup. Sometimes the liquid is omitted. 

Ragout. — A rich, brown stew, with mushrooms, vegetables, etc. 

Remoulade.—A salad dressing difi'ering from mayonnaise, in that the eggs 
are hard-boiled, and rubbed in a mortar with mustard, herbs, etc. 

Ressoles. — Pastry made of light pufi'-paste and cut into various forms and 
fried. They may be filled with fish, meat or sweets. 

Roux. — A cooked mixture of butter and flour, for thickening soups and 
stews. There is both the brown and white. 

Salim, — A rich stew of game, previously half roasted. 



1014 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



Sauce Piquante. — A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar or 
lemon flavor predominates. 

Sunter. — To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it aV)out. 

Stock. — The broth of which soups are made. 

Souflee. — A very light, much-whipped-up pudding or omelette. 

Tarius. — Tamny, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain 
broth and sances, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, etc. 

Timbale. — A sort of pie in the mold. 

Tourte. — Tart, Fruit pie. 

Trousser. — Tobruss, a bird; to put together the body and tie the wings, 
and thighs in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being tied with 
strong thread or held by skewers, to keep it in required form. 

Vol-an-vent. — A rich crust of very fine puff paste which may be filled 
with various delicate ragouts or fricasses of fish, meat, or pork. Fruit fresli 
or preserved may also be enclosed in a vol-an-vent. Small vol-an-vents are 



made as tarts. 



Kitclien XJtensils. 

The following is a list of the utensils needed in every well-furnished 
kitchen. Of course an ingenious housewife will make fewer do excellent 
service, but all these save time and labor, and make the careful preparation 
of food easier. In buying tinware and kitchen utensils generally, it is econ- 
omy to purchase the best at first. The very best double plate tinware will 
last a lifetime, while the poor cheap kind will not last a year. The low- 
priced earthenware, particularly that which looks like the substance of a 
common brick when broken, is worthless. The solid, strong stoneware costs 
perhaps a quarter more, but it is worth ten times as much as the other. It 
ia also much better for milk than tin. 

WOODEN WARE. 



One bread board. 
One rolling pin. 

One small spoon for stirring pudding- 
sauce. 



Two large spoons. Three buckets for sugar. 



One potato-pounder. 

One lemon squeezer. 

One wash-board. 

On« mush stick (hard wood). 



One small paddle for coffee. 
One meat-board. 

One board upon which to cut bread, 
prepare vegetables, etc. 



One chopping tray. 

Two large and one small wash-tuba. 

One wringer. 



KITCHEN UTENSILS. 



1015 



EARTHEN AND STONE WARE. 

One crock, two gallons, for mixing'One bean-pot. 

cake. iOue bowl. 

Two crocks, one gallon each. lOne bowl, four quarts. 

Two crocks, two quarts. Three bowls, one quart. 

Two three-gallon jars. Three bowls, one pint each. 

Two two-gallon jars. jOne nest of three baking dishes, dif- 

Two one-gallon jars. ferent sizes. 
Two two-quart jars. 



TIN WARE. 



One boiler for clothes, holding six 
gallons, with copper bottom or all 
copper. 

One milk strainer. 

One bread-pan, holding five or six 
quarts. 

One deep pan for preserving and can- 
ning fruits. 

One six-quart pan. 

One four-quart pan. 

Two two-quart pans. 

Two one-quart pans. 

Two dish pans. 

Two two-quart covered tin pails. 

One four-quart covered tin pail. 

Two tin-lined sauce pans with covers 
holding four quarts each, for boiling 
potatoes, cabbages, etc. 

Four cups with handles. 

Two pint molds, for rice, blanc-mange, 
etc. 

Four half-pint molds. 

One skimmer with handle. 

Two dippers of different size. 

Two funnels, one for jugs and one for 
cruets. 

Two quart measiire. 

Two pint measure. 

Two half pint measure. 

Two gill measures. 

If possible, get these measures broad 
and low, instead of high and slen- 



der, as they are much more easiir 

kept clean. 
Three scoops of different size. 
Four bread-pans for baking. The 

smallest make the best-sized loaves . 

and will do for cake also. 
Four jelly-cake pans. 
Four round and two long pie-pano. 
Two l^.s inch deep for custard and 

cocoa-nut pies. 
One coffee-pot. 
One tea-pot. 
One colander. 
One large bread-grater. 
One small nutmeg-grater. 
One wire-sieve. 

One hand sieve (quart measure). 
One frying-basket. 
One egg-beater. 
One spice-ljox. 
One pepper-box. 
One cayenne pepper-box. 
One pepper-box for salt. 
Cue biscuit-cutter. 
One potato-cutter. 
One dozen muffin-rings. 
One soap-shaker. 
One tea-kettle with copper bottom or 

all copper. 
One wire spoon. 
One tea-canister. . 
One toasting-rack. 



IKO.V WARE. 



One pair of scales. 

One pot, holding two gallons, with 
steamer to fit. 

One pot, holding three gallons, with 
close-lltting cover, for soup. 

One preserving kettle, porcelain lined, 
one deep frying-pan. 

Two sheet-iron dripping-pans of dif- 
ferent sizes. 



Two spoons with handles of moderate 

length. 
Two spoons with wooden handles. 
One griddle. 
One broiler. 
One waffle-iron. 
One toasting-rack. 
One large meat-fork. 
One jagging-iron. 



1016 



KITCHEN UTENSILS. 



One large turkey pan. 
Two sets of gem pans. 
Two spoons with long handles. 



One can-opener. 
One coffee-mill. 
One chopping-knife. 
Three flat-irons, two No. 8, and one 
No. 6. 



ICKS AXn 1(E-(KE.\M UTKNSILS. 



An Ice-cream freezer. 
A custard-kettle. 
A wire strainer. 
A mortar and pestle. 
An egg-beater. 
A wooden paddle. 
A lemon squeezer. 
A wooden paddle. 
A Tinned gratei. 



A lonjr lian<lled iron spoon. 

A large boxwood spoon. 

A jelly bag. 

A crash strainer. 

A porcelain-lined bow'l. 

A iiousehold scale. 

A set of measures. 

An Ice-cream moid. 



THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 1017 



THE MANAGfEMENT OF HELP. 



In all families whose style of living demands help in the household duties, 
the management of servants is the great American puzzle. "Girls" come 
and go like the seasons, sometimes with the weeks. The one who is "such 
a treasure" to-day, packs her trunk and leaves her mistress in the lurch to- 
morrow, or, if she happens to have a conscience and works on faithfully, she 
becomes the mistress and runs the household in her own way, her employer 
living in mortal fear of offending and loosing her. This state of things is due 
partly to the fact that all girls who go out to service, do so as a make-shift 
until they marry or obtain some more congenial work. Few of them have any 
ambition to do their work well, and few ever dream of making themselves a 
necessity in the family, becoming a part of it, sharing its joys and sorrows, 
and so establishing that honorable and close relation which exists between 
servants and families in Europe. Here, it is so much work for so much pay, 
and no bond of sympathy or attachment is allowed to spring up on either 
side. Another cause is the fact that too many American women, who ought 
to know better, regard work as degrading, instead of positively elevating 
and ennobling when it is well and conscientiously done. Is it wonderful 
that "girls" catch something of this vicious sentiment, and that it poisons 
their minds with false views of life, until they look upon their work as bru- 
tal drudgery, and strive to do as little of it as they possibly can and collect 
their wages? 

Perhaps the reason why girls prefer situations in stores, or shops, or even 
factories, to housework, is that their work there is confined to certain hours, 
after which they are free, and it is quite possible that an arrangement which 
would give the domestic certain hours of the day of her own, would work a 
reform ; or still better, certain reasonable tasks might be allotted her to do 
after which she would be free. 

The fixed wages which prevail in most cities and towns offer no induce- 
ment for the "girl" to try to become skillful or expert at her work. Among 



1018 THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 

men the best, neatest, and most skillful workman commands the largest pay, 
but the "girl" who is a superior cook, or. maid of all work, gets only the 
same wages paid to a bungler who lives next door. Such a thing as a com- 
bination among ladies who employ help, to grade wages and protect each 
other from the imposition of untidy, dishonest, or indolent "girls," has never 
been made, and perhaps, indeed, it is no more called for than a combination 
of "girls" to protect themselves from lazy, tyrannical, or too exacting mis- 
tresses. Certain it is that the whole system by which domestics are hired 
and serve is demoralized beyond any speedy reform. All that any individual 
can do is to remedy its evils so far as possible in her own family. In em- 
ploying a new domestic, there should be the utmost frankness. She ought 
to be fully informed as to what she is expected to do, what her wages will 
be, and how paid, and what privileges will be granted. If she is not pleased, 
let her depart without regret. If you engage her, let her understand first 
and always that you are mistress, and claim the right to have the work done 
in your way, which, if you are as skillful a housewife as you ought to be, you 
will be able to show her what is the best way. The mistress ought always to 
be able to do everything better and quicker than any domestic ever dared 
think of doing it. If she gives orders which betray her ignorance, she may 
as well resign her scepter at once in shame and humiliation. No mistress 
who does not know how to do work herself can ever be just to her help ; and 
even when she is a thorough housekeeper, a turn in the kitchen for a day or 
two will often be like a new revelation to her. 

Above all, the utmost kindness should be shown, and the mistress of the 
house should always be mistress of her temper. She should put herself in 
the "girl's" place, and apply the golden rule in all dealings with her. Give 
unqualified praise when deserved, but never scold. If anything is done im- 
properly, take some proper time and have it done correctly, again and again 
if necessary. Give domestics all the privileges possible, and when obliged 
to deprive them of any customary indulgence, make it up soon in some other 
way. Never to find fault at the time an error is committed, if in the least 
irritated or annoyed, is an invaluable rule in the management of domestics 
or children, and indeed in all the relations of life. A quiet talk after all 
feeling has subsided, will do wonders toward reform, while a sharp and bit- 
ter rebuke would only provoke to further disobedience. It is especially im- 
portant and right to respect religious and conscientious scruples, no matter 
how light and misguided they may seem. To cherish what beliefs she 
pleases is an inalienable right. The care for the comfort and attractiveness 
of the domestic's room is also a duty which every generous mistress will 
cheerfully look after. The servant who is tucked away in a gloomy attic, un- 
finished, uncarpeted, and uncurtained except by cobwebs, with the hardest 
bed and the meanest bed-clothing in the house, can hardly be expected to be 
neat and tidy in her personal habits. But, after all, it will be impossible to 
secure and keep really good "girls" unless they can be won into sympathy 
and attachment to the family, so that they will regard themselves as a part 



THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 1019 

of it, with a future identified with its fortunes. To do this, the mistress 
must respect her maid as a sensitive woman like herself, and not class her 
as a mere drudge of an inferior order of creation. She must recognize the 
fact that character, and not station or wealth, make the lady, and that it is 
possible for those who serve to respect themselves. She must let her domes- 
tics see that she does not consider her work degrading, but honorable, and 
that she does not for a moment expect them to regard it in any other light. 
Above all, she must never show them, by word, look, or action, that she 
"looks down" on them because of their work. By the cultivation of such 
amenities as these, the house may really be made a home for the domestics as 
well as the family, and the mistress who has accomplished this may well 
congratulate herself in having escaped the worst and most perplexing ills 
of the life of the American housewife. In her efforts to bring about such a 
result she may confidently count on meeting many cases of incompetence, 
stupidity, and even ingratitude, but the experiment itself is in the right di- 
rection; and if it fails of complete success, can not be wholly without good 
results. 

HINTS TO THE EMPLOYE^. 



Be neat in person and dress. 

Keep your hands clean and hair tidy. 

Do not waste time in gadding about and gossip. 

Be quiet, polite and respectful in your manners. 

Tell the truth always, but especially to children. 

Do not spend your money foolishlv m gewgaws of dress. 

Always follow your mistress' plan of work, or explain why you do not. 

Keep your room neat and orderly, and make it as attractive as possible. 

Do not waste anything. To waste carelessly is almost as wrong as to 
steal. 

Never tell tales out of the family, or repeat in one what you have seen 
in another. ' 

Never break a promise to children, and do not frighten them with stories, 
or help them to conceal wrong-doing. 

Remember that there is nothing gained by slighting work. Doing every 
thing as well as possible always saves labor in housekeeping. 

Remember that the best and most faithful girls command the highest 
wages, get the easiest and best places, and never are out of employment. 

In engaging a new place, have a clear understanding as to wages, work, 
and the evenings and time you are to have. It may save trouble afterwards. 

Learn from books or from those who have had more experience, the best 
way of doing work, and plan to do it, with as much system and few steps as 
possible. 

Don't change employers. There are trials in every place, and it is bet- 
ter to put up with them, and make them as light as possible, than to change 
to new ones. 

If your mistress scolds and loses her temper, be sure and control yours. 
If you feel that you are wronged, talk quietly and kindly after the storm has 
blown over. 

Instead of trying, as many do, to see how little you can do and get your 
wages, try and see how pleasant and useful you can be as a member of the 



1020 THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 

family. Work for its interest and happiness, lighten its burdens, be ready 
to give help when it is needed, even if it is out of your own line of work, and 
try to win the esteem and love of all by cheerfulness, truthfulness, and the 
practice every day of the golden rule. 

Above all, do not think your work degrading. No work is more honor- 
able. The happiness and health of the family depends on you, and no lady 
or gentleman will "slight" you or "look down" on you because you work. 
You need not be on the lookout for slights unless you are vain, or lazy, or 
slovenly, or dishonest. Whoever looks down on you because you do honest 
work conscientiously and well, is a fool, and not w'orth minding 



HINTS ABOUT MAEKETING. 1021 



HINTS ABOUT MARKETINGF 



Very few housekeepers understand how to select meats wisely or howtc 
buy economicallj'. INIost trust the butcher, or buy at hap-hazard, with no 
flear understanding of what tliey want, and no consideration at all for 
economy ; and yet a little knowledge of facts, with a moderate amount of 
experience and observation, will enable any one to buj'- both intelligently 
and economically. It is best, Avhen possible, to buy for cash. Ready money 
always commands the best in the market, at the lowest prices. It is also 
better to buy of the most respectable regular dealers in the neighborhood, 
than of transient and irresponsible parties. Apparent "bargains" frequently 
turn out the worst possible investments. If a dealer imposes on you, droj; 
him at once. Meat should always be wiped with a dry, clean towel as soon 
as it comes from the butcher's, and in loins the pipe which runs along the 
bone should be removed, as it soon taints. Never buy bruised meat. 

When found necessary to keep meat longer than was expected, sprinkle 
pepper, either black or red, over it. It can be washed off easily when ready 
for cooking. Powdered charcoal is excellent to prevent meat from tainting. 
Meat which has been kept on ice must be cooked immediately, but it is 
much better to place meats, poultry, game, etc., by the side of, not on, ice 
as it is the cold air, not the ice, which arrests decay. All meats excepi 
zeal, are better when kept a few days in a cool place. 



Buying Beef. — Select that which is of a clear cherry-red color after a 
'resh cut has been for a few moments exposed to the air. The fat should be 
jf a light straw color, of a tirm and waxy consistency, and^the meat marbled 
throughout with fat. If the beef is immature, the color of the lean part will 
be pale and dull, the bones small, and the fat very white. High-colored, 
coarse-grained beef, with the fat a deep yellow, should be rejected. In corn- 
fed beef the fat is yelloAvish, while that fattened on grasses is whiter. Ir 



1022 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING, 

cow-beef the fat is also whiter than in ox^eef . Inferior meat from old or 
ill-fed animals has a coarse, skinny fat and a dark red lean. Ox-beef is the 
sweetest and most juicy, highly nourishing, and the most economical. That 
of the cow is nourishing but not so agreeable to the taste, but a heifer is 
always held in high estimation. The flesh of the ox of large breeds is best 
at seven years old ; of small breeds at five years. When meat pressed by 
the finger rises up quickly, it is prime, but if the dent disappears slowly, or 
remains, it is inferior in quality. Any greenish tints about either fat or 
lean, or slipperiness of surface, indicates that the meat has been kept so 
long that putrefaction has begun, and, consequently, is unfit for use, except 
by those persons who prefer what is known as a "high flavor". Tastes dif- 
fer as to the choice cuts, and butchers cut meat differently. The tenderloin, 
which is the choicest piece, and is sometimes removed by itself, lies under 
the short ribs and close to the backbone, and is usually cut through with the 
porterhouse and sirloin stakes. Of these the porterhouse is generally pre- 
ferred, the part nearest the bone being the sweetest. If the tenderloin is 
wanted, it may be secured by buying an edgebone steak, the remainder of 
which, after the removal of the tenderloin, is equal to the sirloin. The small 
porterhouse steaks are the most econimical, but in large steaks, the coarse 
and tough parts may be used for soup, or, after boiling, for hash, which, in 
spite of its bad repute, is really a very nice dish when well made. A round 
steak, when the leg is not cut down too far, is sweet and juicy, the objection 
being its toughness, to cancel which it may be chopped fine, seasoned, and 
made into breakfast croquettes. There is no waste in it, and hence it is the 
most economical to buy. The interior portion of the round is the tenderest 
and best. Porterhouse is cheaper than sirloin, having less bone. Rump 
steak and round, if well pounded to make them tender, have the best flavor. 
The best beef for a la mode is the round ; have the bone removed and trim 
off all the gristle. For corned beef, the rump and round are the best. The 
roasting pieces are the sirloin and the ribs, the latter being the most eco- 
nomical at the family table. They are generally divided as follows : Five 
ribs, called the rib, this being considered the primest roasting piece. Four 
ribs, called the middle-rib, greatly esteemed by housekeepers as the most 
economical joint for roasting. Two ribs called the chuck-rib, — used for 
second quality of steaks. The bones of rib roasts forming an excellent basis 
for soup, and the meat when boned and rolled up (which should be done by 
the butcher), and roasted, is in good form for the carver, as it enables him 
to distribute equally the upper part with the fatter and more skinny por- 
tions. A roast served in this way, if cooked rare, may be cooked a second 
or even a third time. The best beef roast is (for three) about two and a half 
or three pounds of porterhouse. Two or three pounds is a great plenty for 
three. There are roasts and other meats equally good in the fore-quarter of 
beef, but the proportion of bone to meat is greater. They are leg-of-mutton 
piece, — the muscle of the shoulder dissected from the breast. Brisket or 
breast, used for boiling, after being salted. Neck, clod, and ^ticking-piece, 
— used for soups, gravies, stock, pies and mincing for sausages. Shin, — for 
stewing. 

Mutton should be fat, and the fat clear, hard and white. Beware of buy- 
ing mutton with flabby, lean and yellow fat. An abundance of fat is a 
source of waste, but as the lean part of fat mutton is much more juicy and 
lender than any other, it should be chosen. The longer mutton is hung 
before being cooked, provided it does not become tainted, the better it is. 
If a saddle or haunch of mutton is washed with vinegar every day, and 
dried thoroughly after each washing, it will keep a good while. In warm 
weather pepper and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off flies. The 
leg has the least fat in proportion to weight, next is the shoulder. The least 



HINTS ABOUT MAEKETING. 1028 



proportion -of bone is in the leg. After the butcher has cut off all he can be 
persuaded to remove, you will still have to trim it freely before broiling. 
The lean of mutton is quite diflerent from that of beef. While beef is a 
bright carnation, mutton is a deep, dark red. The hind-quarter of mutton is 
best for roasting. The ribs may t)e used for chops, and are the sweeter ; but 
steaks or cutlets from the hind legs are the most economical, as there is 
much less bone, and no hard meat, as on the ribs. For mutton roast, choose 
the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haunch. The leg should be boiled. 
Small rib chops are best for broiling ; those cut out from the leg are gener- 
ally tough. Mutton cutlets to bake are taken from the neck. Almast any 
part will do for broth. As much of the fat should be removed as practicable ; 
then cut into small pieces and simmer slowly until the meat falls to pieces. 
Drain off and skim off any remaining fat, and thicken with rice and vermi- 
celli. Mutton is in season any time, but is not so good in autumn. 

To Select HaniK. — The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, 
are those from eight to fifteen pounds in weight, having a thin skin, solid fat, 
and a small, short, tapering leg or shank. In selecting tiiem, rua a knife 
along the bone on the fleshy side ; if it comes out clean and with an agreeable 
smell the ham is good, but if the knife is smeared it is spoiled. Hams may 
be steamed, being careful to keep the water under the steamer boiling, and 
allow twenty minutes to the pound. When done, brown slightly in the oven. 

Lamb is good at a year old, and more digestible than most immature 
meats. "Spring Lamb" is prized because unseasonable. It is much in- 
ferior to the best mutton. The meat should be light red and fat. If not too 
warm weather, it ought to be kept a day or two before cooking, but it does 
not keep well. It is stringy and indigestible if cooked too soon after killing. 
The fore-quarter of lamb,'if not fresh, the large vein in the neck, which 
should be blue, will be greenish in color. If the hind-quarter is stale, the 
kidney fat will have a slight smell. 

Pork. — Great care must be taken in selecting pork. Dairy-fed pork is 
the best. If ill-fed or diseased, no meat is more injurious to the health. The 
lean must be fine-grained, and fat and lean very white. The rind should be 
smooth and cool to the touch. If clammy, be sure the pork is stale, and re- 
ject it. If the fat is full of small kernels, it is an indication of disease. In 
good bacon the rind is thin, the fat firm, and the lean tender. Rusty bacon 
has yellow streaks in it. Fresh pork should seldom be eaten, and never 
except in the fall and winter. Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is often 
despised because cheap ; but well cooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the 
tip of the snout chopped otF, and put in brine a week, it is in order for boil- 
ing. The cheeks are better than any other pieces of pork to bake. The 
head is good baked an hour and a half, and yields abundance of sweet fat 
for shortening. 

Tongue. — Beef's tongue, calf's tongue, lamb's and sheep's tongue, pig's 
tongue, can all be procured of the butchers, and they are all prepared in the 
same way. Calf's tongue is considered best, but it is usually sold with the 
head; beeves' tongues are what is referred to generally when "tongue" is 
spoken of. Lambs' tongues are very nice. In purchasing tongues, choose 
those which are thick, firm, and have plenty of fat on the under side. In 
buying a salt tongue ascertain how long it has been pickled and select one 
with a smooth skin which denotes it being young and tender. 

Veal is best from calves not less than four nor more than six weeks old. 
If younger it is unfit for food, and if older the mother cow does not furnish 
enough food, and it is apt to fall away; besides, the change to grass diet 
changes the character of the flesh, it becoming darker and less juicy. The 



1024 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 



meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, with 
tissues hanging loosely about the bone, it is not good. Veal will not keep so 
long as an older meat, especially in hot or damp weather, and when going 
the fat is soft and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and inclined to be 
porous like a sponge. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint. It is usually 
divided into two parts, called the "loin" and the "leg". A loin must al- 
ways be roasted ; the fillet or leg may be dressed in various ways. When 
the leg is large, it is divided into two joints, and the thin end is called the 
"kidney end," and the other the "thick end." From the leg is cut the "fil- 
lets" and "veal cutlets." The "knuckle of veal" is the part left after the 
"fillets" and "cutlets" are removed (the knee) and is best for soup or boil- 
ing. In the fore quarter the breast and rack admit variety in cooking ; the 
shoulder and neck are only fit for soup. Many prefer the "breast of veal" 
for roasting, stewing, pies, etc. It may be boned so as to roll, or a large 
hole may be cut in it to make room for the stuffing. The neck of veal is 
used for stewing, fricassee, pies, etc. The leg is an economical piece, as 
you can take off cutlets from the large end, stuff and roast the center, and 
make broth of the shank. Veal chops are nice for frying or boiling ; cutlets 
or steaks for same purpose are more economical as there is less bone. Veal 
should be avoided in summer. Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition, 
in proportion to their weight, than beef and mutton, they are often prefer- 
red to these latter meats on account of the delicacy of their texture and 
flavor. , 

Sweet-breads, if properly cooked, make one of the most delicate dishes 
that can be put upon the table ; but some care must be taken in selecting 
them, as there are two kinds, and one kind is very much better than the 
(jther. One is found in the throat of the calf, and when fresh is plump, 
white and fat, it has an elongated form, but is not so firm and fat, and has 
not the fine flavor of the heart sweet-bread. The heart sweet-bread is at- 
tached to the last rib, and lies near the heart. The form is somewhat 
rounded, and it is smooth and firm. The color should be clear and a shade 
darker than the fat. Select the largest. There is also the lamb sweet- 
bread. However the sweet-breads may be cooked, they should be always 
first soaked for three hours in cold water, which should be two or three times 
changed ; then they should be put into boiling water for half an hour or 
longer, if that does hot make them firm ; then they may be dried in a towel, 
and pressed flat by putting them between two pans or boards, with a press- 
ing-iron or other weight on top. Another nice dish, and in dishes may be 
made of Calves-head ; in buying, purchase two small ones as they do not cost 
any more than one large one and contain a double amount of brain, Avhich 
is a very choice part of them. 



Grame and Poultry. 

To preserve game and poultry in summer, draw as soon as possible after 
they are killed, wash in several waters, have in readiness a kettle of boiling 
water, plunge them in, drawing them up and down by the legs, so that the 
water may pass freely through them ; do this for five minutes, drain, wipe 
dry, and hang in a cold place ; when perfectly cold, rub the insides and 
necks with pepper ; prepared in this way, they will keep two days in warm 
weather ; when used wash thoroughly. Or wash well in soda-water, rinse is 
clear water, place inside several pieces of charcoal, cover wdth a cloth, and 
hang in a dark, cool place, The most delicate birds can be preserved in this 



HINTS ABOUT MARKETING, 1025 

way. If game or poultry is at all strong, let it stand for several hours in 
water with either soda or charcoal ; the latter will sweeten them when they 
are apparently spoiled. English or French cooks, however, never wash 
poultry or game in dressing, unless there is something to wash off. With 
skillful dressing, none is necessary on the score of cleanliness, and much 
washing tends to impair the fine flavor, especially of game In all game and 
poultry the female is the choicer. 

Sportsmen who wish to keep prairie-chickens, phesants or wild fowl in 
very hot weather, or to ship long distances, should draw the bird as soon as 
killed, force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a string around 
the throat above them, sprinkle inside a little powdered charcoal, aud fill 
the cavity of the body with very dry grass. Avoid green or wet grass, which 
"heats" and hastens decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, 
force a piece of charcoal into the vent, and tie a string closely around the 
neck, so as to exclude all air, and make a loop in string to hang up by. Pre- 
pared in this way they will bear shipment for a long distance. 

Ducks. — Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web of the 
foot is transparent, and the beak will be brittle and break readily, those with 
thick, hard breasts are best. Tame ducks have yellow legs ; wild ducks, red- 
dish ones ; and in either case in young ones they are hairless. 

Geese. — In young geese, the bills and feet are yellow and supple, and the 
skin may be easily broken ; the breast is plump, and the fat white ; an old 
goose has red and hairy legs, and is unfit for the table. 

Wild DucJcs, if fishy and the flavor is disliked, should be scalded for a few 
minutes in salt and water before roasting. If the flavor is very strong the 
duck may be skinned, as the oil in the skin is the objectionable part. After 
skinning, spread with butter and thickly dredge with flour, before putting in 
a very quick oven. 

Game- — In pheasants and quails, yellow legs and dark bills are signs of a 
young bird, and the pins in a young pheasant are short and blunt. With the 
latter the cock-bird is generally prefered except when the hen is with egg. 
They are in season in autumn. Pigeons should be fresh, fat and tender, and 
the feet pliant and smooth. In prairie chickens, when fresh, the eyes are 
full and round, not sunken ; and if young, the breast-bone is soft and yields 
to pressure. The latter test also applies to all fowls and game birds. Plover 
woodcock, snipe, etc., may bg chosen by the same rule. Choose rabbits 
with smooth and sharp claws ; as that denotes they are young ; should these 
be blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, the animal is old. 

Turkeys are in season in fall and winter, but deteriorate in the spring. 
Old turkeys have long hairs, and the skin is purplish when it shows under 
the skin on legs and back ; when good, they are white, plump, with full 
breast and smooth, black legs ; and if male, soft loose spurs. The eyes are 
bright and full, and the feet are supple, when fresh. The absence of these 
signs denotes age and staleness. Hen turkeys are inferior in flavor, but are 
smaller, fatter and plumper. Full-grown turkeys are best for boning or boil- 
ing, as the flesh does not tear in dressing. 

Chickens, when fresh, are known by full, bright eyes, pliable feet, and 
soft moist skin. Young fowls have a tender skin, smooth legs and comb, and 
the best have yellow legs. In old fowls, the legs are rough and hard. The 



1026 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 

top of tho !)reast-l)one of a young fowl is soft, and may be easily bent with 
the lingers ; and the fec^t and neck are large in proportion to the body. The 
Ijest fowls are fat, plump, with skin nearly white, and the grain of tlie flesh 
fine. Old fowls have long, thin necks and feet, and the flesh on the legs and 
back has a purplish shade. Fowls are always in season. 

Vejvison. — The choice of venison should be regulated by the fat, which, 
when the venison is young, should be thick, clear and close, while the meat 
is a reddish brown. As it always begins to taint first nearthe haunches, run 
a knife into that part ; if tainted, a rank smell and a greenish appearance will 
be ])erceptible. It maybe kept a long time, however, with careful manage- 
ment and watching, by the following process : Wash it well in milk and 
water, and dry it perfectly with a cloth until there is not the least damp re- 
maining; then dust ground pepper over every part. This is a good preserva- 
tive against the fly. The flesh of the female deer, about four years old, is 
the sweetest and best of venison. 



Fish. 



"When fresh, the eyes of fish are full and bright, and the gills a fine clear 
red, the body stiff and the smell not unpleasant. Mackerel must be lately 
caught, or it is very indifferent fish, and the flavor and excellence of salmon 
depends entirely on its freshness. In fresh-water fish, it is imposssible to 
name all the excellent varieties, as they differ with the locality. In the 
South is the shad, the sheep's-head, the golden mullet and the Spanisli 
mackerel, in the North-west the luscious brook trout, and the wonderful 
and choice tribes that people the inland lakes. Among the best of the fresh- 
water fish, sold generally in the markets of the interior, are the Lake 
Superior trout and white fish, and, coming from cold waters, they keep best 
of all fresh-water fisli ; the latter is the best, most delicate, and has fewer 
bones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and pickerel of 
the inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped, packed in ice, 
reaching market as fresh as when caught, and are sold at moderate prices. 
California salmon is also shipped in the same way, and is sold fresh in all 
cities, with fresh cod and other fresh varieties from the Atlantic coast, but 
the long distance which they must be transported makes the price high. 
The cat-fish is the staple Mississippi River fish, and is cooked in various 
ways. Lake Superior trout are the best fresh fish for baking. All fish 
which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately after removal, 
as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. Stale fish must never be 
eaten. Fresh fish should be scaled and cleansed properly on a dry table, 
and not in a pan of water. As little water should be used as is compatible 
with perfect cleanliness. When dressed, place near ice until needed, then 
remove and cook immediately. If frozen when brought from market, thaw 
in ice-cold water. Fresh cod, whiting, haddock, and shad are better for 
being salted the night before cooking them, and the muddy smell and taste 
of fresh-water fish is removed by soaking, after cleaning, in strong salt and 
water. 



HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1027 

Anchovies. — The best look red and mellow, and the bones moist and 
oily, the flesh is high flavored, and a fine smell ; if the liquor and fish be- 
come dry, add to it a little beef brine. 

Cod. — This should be chosen for the table when it is plump and round 
near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and when the sides 
are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts about the head 
lose their delicate flavor after the flsh has been twenty-four hours out of the 
water. The great point by which the cod should be judged is the firmness 
of its flesh; and although the cod is not firm when it is alive, its quality 
may be arrived at by pressing the finger into the flesh. If this rises 
immediately the fish is good, if not, it is stale. Another sign of its good- 
ness is, if the flsh, when it is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the 
silver-side of a round of beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm 
when cooked. Stiff"ness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of fresh- 
ness, though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting 
signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so 
strongly recommended by many. 

Crabs. — Though not so popvdar as lobsters, crabs are among the most 
pleasantly flavored fish of their class. They are in season from June to 
■January, but are considered to be more wholesome in the cold months. The 
middling size, when heavy, lively, and possessed of large claws, are the best 
and sweetest ; if light, they are poor and watery When crabs are stale the 
eyes look dead, the claws hang down, and there is no muscular activity; in 
this condition they are not fit to eat. The female is considered inferior to 
the male, and may be distinguished by the claws being smaller, and the 
apron, which appears on the white or under side, larger. In purchasing 
crabs in the living state })reference should be given to those which have a 
rough shell and claws. When selecting a crab which has been cooked it 
should be held by its claws and well shaken from side to side. If it is found 
to rattle, or feels as if it contained water, it is proof that the crab is of infer- 
ior quality. The crab may be kept alive, out of water, two or three days. 
They are broiled in same manner as the lobster. Soft-shell Crabs are deenied 
a great luxury ; but they must not be kept over night, as the shells harden 
in twenty-four hours. 

Eels. — Dress as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness; cut ofl" 
the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string. 
They are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. 
A fine codfish is thick at the back of the neck, and is best in cold weather. 
In sturgeon, flesh should be white, veins blue, grain even and skin tender. 

Lobsters. — When fresldy caught, have some muscular action in their 
claws which may be excited by pressing the eyes. The heaviest lobsters if 
of good size are the best, but the largest are not the best. The male is 
thought to have the highest flavor, the flesh is firmer, and the shell has a 
brighter red, and is considered best during the Fall and Spring ; it may be 
readily distinguished from the female, as the tail is narrower, and the two 
uppermost fins, within the tail, are stiff and hard; those of the female are 
soft, and the tail broader. The latter are ])repared for sauces on account of 
their coral, and are preferred during the summer, especially in June and 
July. The head is used in garnishing, by twisting it off after the lobster 
has been boiled and become cold. Lobsters ranging from four pounds are 
most delicate. When j'ou buy them- ready boiled, try whether their tails 
are stiff, and pull up with a spring ; if otlierwise, they are either waterv or 
not freah. 



102S HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 

Mackerel. — The best salt mackerel for general use are "English mess," 
but "bloaters" are considered nicer. In selecting alwavs choose those 
which are thick on the belly and fat ; poor mackerel are always dry. The 
salt California salmon are excellent, those of a dark rich yellow being best. 
To freshen, place with scale side tip. Salmon boiled and served with egg 
sauce or butter dressing is nice. No. 1 White Fish is also a favorite salt fish, 
and will be found in all markets. Herring is a good and very economical 
fish. A good deal of sturgeon is put up and sold for smoked halibut. The 
skin of halibut should be white ; if dark it is more likely to be sturgeon. Smoked 
salmon should be firm and dry. Smoked white fish and trout are very nice, 
the former being a favorite in whatever way dressed. Select good firm 
whole fish. 

Scallops are not much used ; when fresh, the shell closes tight ; hard- 
shell clams are also closed tight wdien fresh. Soft-shell clams are good only 
in cold weather, and should be fresh. Oysters, if alive and healthy, close 
tight upon the knife. They are good from September to May. 

Terrapins. — They are "diamond backs," and sold in the market by 
counts, which are so called from the width of the bottom shell, each count 
measuring three inches. Any terrapin that will go a connt is a female, and' 
of course is preferred, for being more tender, and on account of the eggs. 



Vegetables. 

All green vegetables snap crisply when fresh ; if they bend and present 
a wilted appearance they are stale. They should be crisp, fresh, and juicy ; 
they are best just before flowering, and are in prime condition for use if 
gathered early in the morning, and not afterwards exposed to the heat of the 
sun ; green vegetables which have laid in the market stalls for any time 
should not be bought if fresh ones can be obtained ; but if their use is un- 
avoidable they can be restored by sprinkling them with cold water, and lay- 
ing them in a cool, dark place. 

Carrots, are good from the time of ripening until they begin to sprout; 
after that their elements are disarranged and altered by the process of germ- 
ination, and they do not supply the same kind or amount of nutriment. They 
should be plump and even sized, with fresh, unshrivelled skins. They, as 
well as parsnips, turnips, greens, and cabbage are eaten with boiled meat. 

Caulifloiuers are best when large, solid and creamy. "When stale the 
leaves are wilted and show dark spots. 

Celery stalks should be white, solid and clean. Celery begins in August, 
but it is better and sweeter after frost. 

Egg-plant should be firm but not ripe. The large purple oval-shaped 
kind, is best. 

Edible M^l,shrooms are most plentiful in the early Spring and in August 
and September, springing up in the open fields aftering low-lying fogs or 
heavy dews, their quick growth being most remarkable. Never gather those 
that grow in shady places, under trees or near pools of stagnant water, as 
they are almost sure to be poisonous. The top of the edible young mush- 
room and its stalk is always quite white, while the gills or under part are 
loose and of a light pink or salmon color, which changes as it grows older 



HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1029 

to a chocolate brown color, and then to black, according to the time it con- 
tinues growing ; the stem also becomes dark and the top turns brown. The 
upper skin of the mushroom falls off easily but that of the poisonous fungus 
does not; the latter has a yellow skin and the under part has not the clear 
flesh or pink color of the mushroom. Every edible mushroom has also a 
pleasant odor and is never slimy, while those that are dangerous either have 
a bad odor or none at all. 

Peate should be bought in pods and should feel cool and dry. If pods 
are rusty or spotted, they are too old to be good. These as well as corn, 
beets, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roasted meat. 

Potatoes. — Select those of medium size, smooth, with small eyes ; those 
which are heavy in proportion to size will be the mealiest when cooked. 
They should be perfectly ripe before gathering, otherwise they will dry and 
shrivel, because their skins are so porous as to permit the evaporation of 
their moisture. To test, cut off a piece of the large end ; if spotted, they are 
unsound. Potatoes vary greatly in quality ; varieties which are excellent 
early in the season loose their good qualities, and others, which are worth- 
less in the Fall, are excellent late in the Spring. Those raised on gravelly 
or sandy soil, not over rich are best. In the Spring, when potatoes are be- 
ginning to sprout, place a basket of them in a tub, pour hoiliiig water over 
them ; in a moment or two take out and place in sun to dry (on the grass is 
a good place), and then return to cellar. If they have sprouted too much it 
is best to first rub them off. They are good with all meats. With poultry 
they are best mashed. Sweet potatoes are most appropriate to roasts as 
are onions, winter squash and asparagus. 

Tomatoes are generally regarded as wholesome. The medium-sized 
smooth ones are best. Tomatoes are good with every kind of meat, but 
especially so with roasts. 

Turnips are not nutritious, being ninety per cent water, but an excel- 
lent food for those who are disposed to eat too much, as they correct consti- 
pation. Small-sized white turnips contain more nutrition than large ones, 
but in ruta-bagas the largest are best. Mashed turnip is good with roasted 
pork and with boiled meats. 



Fruit. 

Berries. — Morning is the best time to eat fruit, and fresh fruit is then in 
the best condition to be eaten. When berries of any kind can be had fresh 
with the morning dew, fill the finest glass dish, adding a few fresh leaves, for 
a center-piece on the breakfast table. Serve in saucers accompanied with 
fine white sugar (pulverized is the best and most economical for all purposes) 
and fresh cream if you have it, but never substitute skim milk. The berries 
will be very nice with only sugar. There is a vast difference between fruit 
with cream and fruit with milk. Cream is easily digested and slow to sour, 
while just the contrary is true of milk after the cream has been removed. 
Yet we have known people to live after eating strawberries and buttermilk, 
and we have also known people to die after eating hot apple dumplings and 
cold milk. If you happen to be the fortunate possessor of a berry patch, let 
the children go out betore breakfast and pick and eat. Properly trained chil- 
dren will not abuse this privilege. 

Apples. — The varieties of apples are almost unmentionable, and some 
kind can be had almost the entire year. First fruit received in the north 
comes from Tennessee about June lit. Southern Illinois furnishes some 



1030 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 

June 15th, and from this time apples are ripening in all sections of country. . 
Early apples are Red Junes, Early Harvest — both tart — Maiden Blush, Red 
Streaks, Strawberries, Porters, Golden, Ben Davis and Pippins. Pippins 
are good for pies and also for eating. Later in the fall the Rhode Island 
Greening is best for cooking. None of our fruits are brought to such perfec- 
tion, or may be preserved with such ease through the winter. The best eat- 
ing apples are the Spitzenberg, Bell-flowers, Ben Davis, Northern Spy, Win- 
ter Pippin, Red Astrakan, Greening, Vandevere, Pound Sweet, Roxbury 
Russets and Grindstones. 

Apples, to Keep. — For keeping late in spring the Baldwins, Northern Spy, 
Greenings and Wine Saps are good ; our experience being in favor of the last 
named. The Ben Davis and Bell-flowers are good cooking apples yet the lat- 
ter can generally be bought without specifying the kind. The hard, acid 
kind, are unwholesome if eaten raw ; but by the process of cooking the great- 
est part of the acid is decomposed and converted into sugar, a process which 
takes place naturally in the sweet kinds, as the fruit ripens. As more than 
half of the substance of apples consists of water, and as the rest of the ingre- 
dients ar© not of the most nutritive kind, this fruit, like most fruits, is less of 
a nutrient than a luxury, and an aid to digestion. When cooked they are 
slightly laxative, and therefore a useful adjunct to other food. They are 
nice, cooked without paring them. Wipe clean, nearly cover with water, 
add a little sugar, and stew until tender, then put in a slow oven and bake 
until brown. The peel of the apple imparts a rich flavor. Apple sauce 
made in the usual way, after being sufficiently stewed, if put into a slow 
oven and baked an hour or so. is greatly improved. 

Grapes. — These ripen according to locality, from the 1st of September 
until November, and, when carefully kept, a month or two longer. VV^e 
have also the luscious foreign grapes, raised in hot and cold graperies from 
April until December, among which are the Black Hamburgh, White Mus- 
cat, White Sweetwater, Tokay, etc. The Syrian, a white species, produces 
the largest clusters. The White Malayan, of foreign growth, is found 
throughout the winter where imported fruits are kept. Fox or wild grapes 
are abundant from the middle of August to November ; they are round and 
soft, with a pleasant, tart taste, and are used for pies, preserves, etc. 

Lemons — Are fruit that keep well and may be had almost any seaaon of 
the year, but are more plenty and cheaper in the Spring. Messina lemons 
are the best. Little success has been had raising lemons in Florida, better 
in California, but the Messina has for many years been considered the best. 

Oranges. — California Riverside oranges are the cleanest and finest fruit 
raised ; but the finest oranges that are shipped to Northern cities are from 
Florida. They begin to pick them about November and the crop is all 
marketed by February first. California fruits are picked in December and 
the bulk is marketed in March and April ; the fruit Is plentiful and stays 
on trees until March or April in perfect condition. Can be had in market 
until late in June. The finest variety of all oranges is the Naval which 
is luscious, sweet, and without seeds. The Paperskins, and Bud- 
ded or Grafted oranges are also good, Fruit from Los Angeles, Sante 
Anna, and San Bernardine is inferior to that from Riversides because of the 
Ocean fogs blackening them while on the tree, and the process of cleaning 
brushing, etc., injures them, and they do not keep so well. The importa- 
tion of Messinas begins in March and after May the market is supplied 
largely with this fruit. This was formerly considered the finest fruit, but it 
has lost its prestige and importations at present time are not over one third 
what they were. Lousiana oranges come late in the season — October 



HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1031 

and November, bnt are not considered as good as the other varieties ; large 
and yellow, but coarse, inferior and apt to have strong seeds, peculiar sour 
bitter taste, etc. Some seasons the fruit matures better than others and is 
quite palatable. 

Peaches.— Thin fruit can be grown in about any temperate climate and 
is raised from Gulf of Mexico to Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, and can be ob- 
tained from middle of May to first of October. First comes from Mississippi, 
as they begin to pick May 1st. From Tennesee 10th to 15th of June ; Soutli- 
ern Illinois, July 1st; California, July 1st ; Michigan, August 15th; Mary- 
land, August 15th. California and Mississippi fruit do not rank high on ac- 
count of being picked green for distant shipments. No really fine peaches 
are obtained until the Maryland and Michigan crop come in. These peaches 
are harder and will stand longer shipments and are considered one of the 
finest fruits. 

Pears — May be had from July until well into the winter. The finest of 
this fruit comes from California, although some fine pears may be had from 
Western New York and Northern Ohio. 



Grroceries. 

Almonds. — Buy the sweet variety ; the kernels are used either in a green 
or ripe state, and as an article in the dessert. Into cookery, confectionerv, 
perfumery, and medicine, they largely enter, and in domestic economy' 
should always be used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for ad- 
vising this is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic 
acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and bark of the tree. When 
young and green they are preserved in sugar, like green apricots. Thev 
furnish the almond-oil ; and the farinaceous matter which is left after the 
oil is expressed, forms the pate d'amandes of perfumers. In the arts, the oil 
is employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the basis of 
kalydor, macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other articles of that 
kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is considered a nutritive, laxa- 
tive, and an emollient. 

Arrowroot, Tapioca, S'^go, Pearl-barley, American Isinglass, Macaroni 
Vermicelli, and Oatmeal, are all articles which help to make an agreeable 
variety, and it is just as cheap to keep a small quantity of each as it is to 
buy a large quantity of two or three articles. Eight or ten pounds each of 
these articles of food can be kept in covered jars or covered wooden boxes 
and then they are always at hand when wanted. All of them are verv 
healthful food, and help to form many delightful dishes for desserts. There 
are several kinds of oatmeal — Scotch, Irish, Canadian and American. The 
first two are sold in small packages, the Canadian and American in anv 
quantity. It seems as if the Canadian and American should be the best be- 
cause the freshest ; but the fact is the others are considered the choicest. 
Many people could not eat oatmeal in former years, owing to the husks ir- 
ritating the lining of the stomach. There is now'what is called pearled meal. 
All the husks are removed, and the oats are then cut. The coarse kind will 
keep longer than the fine ground, but it is best to purchase often, and have 
the meal as fresh as possible. 

Buckwheat Meal, Rice and Hominy should be purchased in small quan- 
tities, and kept in covered kegs and tubs. Several of these articles are in- 
fested with black insects, and an examination should be occasionally made 
for them. 



1032 HINTS ABOUT MARKETIIfO. 

Cheese, which feels soft between the fingers, is richest and best and 
should be kept in a box in a cool dry place. 

Corn Meal does not keep well and should be bought in small quantities. 
South the white meal is used, and North the yellow is the favorite. Corn is 
a heat produeer and is a useful winter diet. 

Coffee and Tea can be bought with advantage in considerable quantities. 
Coffee improves by age if kept in a dry place, as it loses its rank smell and 
taste. Several cents a pound may be saved by buying a bag of coffee or 
half chest of tea. Tea loses its flavor if put up in paper, and should be kept 
in glass or tin, shut tight. Coffee should be kept by itself, as its odor affects 
other articles. 

Eggs. — To determine the exact age of eggs, dissolve about four ounces 
of common salt in a quart of pure water and then immerse the egg. If it be 
only a day or so old, it will sink to the bottom of the vessel, but if it be three 
days old it will float in the liquid ; if more than five it cornea to the surface, 
anci rises above in proportion to its increased age. 

Flour should be bought in small quantities, and the best is cheapest. 
The test of quality is given under bread. Flour is peculiarly sensitive to at- 
mosphereic influence, hence it should never be stored in a room with sour 
liquids nor where onions or fish are kept, nor any article that taints the air 
of the room in which it is stored. Any smell perceptible to the sense will 
be absorbed by flour. Avoid damp cellars or loft where a free circulation of 
air can not be obtained. Keep in a cool, dry, airy room, and not exposed to a 
freezing temperature nor to intense summer or to artificial heat for any 
ieifgth of time above 70 to 72 degrees Farenheit. It should not come in con- 
tact with grain or other substances which are liable to heat. Flour should 
be sifted and the particles thoroughly disintegrated, and then warmed before 
baking. 

Hard Soap should be bought in large quantity, and laid to harden in 
bars piled on each other. Hard soap is more economical than soft, as it is 
not so easily wasted. 

Lard. — The best lard is made from leaf fat which adheres to the ribs and 
belly of the hog. This is known as leaf lard. Most lard is, however, made 
of both leaf fat and meat fat, the latter cut into small pieces and rendered. 
Good lard should be white, solid, and without any disagreeable smell. 

Macaroni. — Good macaroni is of a yellowish color, does not break in 
cooking and yields four times its bulk. 

Bfarjorarn. — Although there are several species of marjoram, that which 
is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one usually preferred in 
cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and when its leaves are used as a seas- 
oning lierb, they have an agreeable aromatic flavor. The winter sweot 
marjoram used for the same purpose, is a native of Greece, and the pot- 
marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are favorite 
ingredients in soups, stuftings, etc. 

Olives. — A small sort can be bought by the keg cheap for sauces, etc., 
but for the table always use the Spanish bottled olives. 

Raisins should be bought in small quantities ; small boxes are best. 

Rice. — The Southern rice cooks much quicker, and is nicer than the 
Indian rice. 

'Sago.~The small white sago, eall«d "p«arl," is b«it. 



fllKTfl ABOUT MARKETING. 1033 

Salt must be kept in the dryest place that can be found. The best for 
table use is put up in boxes, but if a quantity be purchased, it should be 
stored in a glass jar, and closely covered. When it becomes damp in the 
salt-stands, it should be set by the fire to dry, and afterwards reduced to fine 
powder again. 

Satads. — For these procure mustard and cress, borage, chervil, lettuce, 
parsley, mint, purslane, chives, burnet, nasturtium leaves and buds, fennel, 
sorrel, tarragon, corn salad, dandelions, chicory, escarole, water cresses, 
green onions, celery, leeks, lettuce, very young spinach leaves, the tender 
leaves of oyster plant, fresh mushrooms, youn^marshmellow shoots, and the 
fresh sprouts of winter turnips ; also radishes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage, 
very young turnips, green peppers, and fresh tomatoes. Salad vegetables 
which can be cooked and allowed to cool and then made into salads, are po- 
tatoes, beets, carrots, cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, kohl-rabi, artichokes, 
string beans, green peas, asparagus, Brussel sprouts, spinach, dried haricot 
beans, Lima beans, lentils, and leeks; among the fruits are apples, pears, 
oranges, lemons, muskmelons, currants, gooseberries and barberries. 

Spices and Pepper should be ground fine, and put in large-mouthed glass 
bottles, or kept in tin cans, in a dry place. Avoid bright red peppers, spices, 
and sauces. 

Starch may also be bought in large quantities at a considerable discount 
from the retail price, which, in a large family, makes a difference in the 
yearly expenses. The best starch is the most economical. 

Sugars. — Buy sugars for various purposes as follows : 

For baked custard, mince pie, squash pie, fruit cake, gingerbread, most 
Indian puddings, use brown sugar. 

For all light-colored cakes, icing, floating island, blanc-mange, merin- 
gues, whips, use powdered sugar. 

For pudding sauce, use powdered or brown sugar. 

For sweetmeats, jelly, and raspberry vinegar, use fine granulated sugar, 
and where only one sugar is used the fine granulated is best for all purposes. 
There is a great difference between the fine and coarse sugar, the former 
being more economical as it dissolves much quicker and more readily. 

Vinegar, which is made of wine or cider is the best. Buy a keg, or half 
barrel of it, and set it in the cellar, and then keep a supply for the casters 
in a junk bottle in the kitchen. If too strong, vinegar will eat pickles. 

White Pepper.— This is better to buy than the black. It is the produce 
of the same plant as that which produces the latter, from which it is man- 
ufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the 
hands till the coats come off. The best berries only will bear this operation ; 
hence the superior qualities of white pepper command a higher price than the 
other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. 
It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. 
The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and 
are, when ripe, of a bright-red color. After being gathered, which is done 
when they are green, they are spread out in the sun, where they become 
black and shrivelled, when they are ready to be prepared for the market. 

Dressing Poultry for Market. — Secure plump well fattened fowls. Dc 
nrft feed for at least twenty-four hours before killing. Scald enough to make 
the feathers come off easily, picking both feathers and pin feathers off nicely. 
Be careful not to bruise or break the skin in any way, because it injures the 
sale. Leave all the entrails in, and head and feet on. Immediately aftei 
they are dressed, dip once in bailius hot water, letting them remahi in about 



10o4 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 

ten seconds ; then dip into ice-cold water, allowing them to remain in the 
same lengtli of time, then hang in a cool place where they will dry before 
packing. J3ucks should be treated same as fowls or chickens. Pack in 
boxes or barrels in nice, clean rye or oat straw. Boxes holding from luO lbs. 
to 200 lbs. are the most desirable style of packages. Pack with breasts 
down, using straw between each layer. 

Be sure to pack solid, so they will not bruise on the way. Poultry pre- 
pared in this way will meet with a ready sale, while poorly dressed, sweaty 
(caused by being packed while warm) and bruised lots will not sell at any 
time. Large, fat, dry picked turkeys and chickens sell well. They should 
be picked at once after killing, and hungup until the animal heat is entirely 
out before packing. Remember, it is the appearance of goods that sells 
them. Nice, large, fat, plump turkeys, chickens, ducks, or geese, always 
bring outside prices. 

The best time to ship. — Any time after the tenth of November, so as to 
reach market by Wednesday or Thursday of each week. If sent for the 
holidays, they should arrive at least three days before Thanksgiving, Christ- 
mas or New Year's. Keep the largest turkeys for New Year's. Geese sell 
best at Christmas. 



Fuel. 



Wood. — A table showing the comparative value of various woods is given 
with the table of weights and measures. That cut from the body of a mature 
tree is best. 

Soft Coal. — The objection to soft coal is the dust that arises from it, and 
the unpleasant smell of the gases of combustion. There is a great differ- 
ence in the quality of soft coals from different mines, and it will be easy to 
learn the best varieties in the local market. 

Hard Coal. — Bad coal has fiat, dull pieces in it which remain hard, 
heavy and whitish when burned, called "bone". If in a scuttle full of coal 
weighing twenty-five pounds, a half pound of these white pieces are found, 
the coal is not good. Coal is pronounced good if it breaks at right angles 
firmly and with a bright fracture. If it shatters or is full of dull pieces, it is 
poor in quality. There is a vast diflFerence in hard coal, a difference which 
few understand. 

Coke is sold in many markets. It kindles readily and makes an intense 
heat. It is lighter than coal and costs about the same price per ton. It is 
cleaner than soft coal for burning in open grates. 



CUTTING AND CUEING MEATS. 



1035 



CUTTI^G^ AISTD CURING- MEATS. 



It is often economical for a family to buy beef by the quarter, and smaller 
animals whole, especially when wanted for winter use as what is wished 
fresh can be kej)t a long time in cold weather, really improving as long as it 
does not become tainted, and the rest can be "corned", dried, etc. Forthis 

reason every housekeeper ought to know how 
to cut up meats and to understand the uses 
and relative value of the pieces. It is not 
difficult to cut up beef, and is very easy to re- 
duce any of the smaller animals to convenient 
proportions for domestic use ; and in order to 
make the subject clear we present the ac- 
companying engravings, the first of whicli 
represents the half of a beef, including, of 
course, the hind and fore-quarters. The let- 
ters indicate the direction in which the cuts 
should be made, beginning in the order of the 
alphabet, cutting first from A to B, then C to 
D, etc., in hind-quarter. In the fore-quarter 
cut from A to B, from B to C, from Dto E, etc. 
For cutting, use a sharp, long, and pointed 
knife, and a saw of the best steel, sharp, and 
set for butcher's use. The beef should be 
laid on a bench or table with the inner side up. 
With the different divisions we give the or- 
dinary value of the meat, the price being per 
pound except in the leg and soup bones. Of 
course in different places prices will vary, but 
these give the relative value of the pieces. In 

HIND-QUARTER 

1 Represents the rump or upper part of 
hind leg, good for pot roasts ; beef a la mode ; 
corned beef and rump roasts, also makes 
splendid soup ; 12^/^ cts. 




1036 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 

2 The "round" the under part of which makes steaks, the outside 
lean soup meat or good corning pieces, or the whole is very choice for dried 
beef ; 15 cts. 

3 The "shank," of which the upper part is the muscle of the leg, solid 
meat and good for soups ; 12)^ cts. 

4 "Rump steaks" ; 16 cts. 5, "veiny piece" for dried beef and corning; 
14 and 15 cts. 6, sirloin steaks; 18 cts. 

6 & 8 Between these numbers over the thigh joint are the tenderloin 
steaks ; 20 cts. 

7 The flank for curing or stews 6 cts., and in it lies the flank steak, best 
and juiciest steak there is ; when purchasing it do not have it scored as is 
usually done ; just remove fat and skin ; 12|^ cts. 

8. Porterhouse steaks, those lying next to tenderloin steaks being the 
best, of course ; 18 cts. Cutting the steaks in this way a part of the tender- 
loin, the most tender bit of the beef, lies in the sirloin, and a smaller part 
in the upper part of the porterhouse steak. The lower half of the cut gives 
us the 

FORE-QUABTBR. 

1. Rib piece for boiling or corning. 

2. Plate piece for corning ; 8 cents fresh. 

3. Shank for soup bone, weighs 10 pounds ; 35 cents entire. 

4. Lower part of the division are shoulder pieces for stewing and pot 
roasts ; 10 cents. Upper part used for same purpose, but better pieces of 
meat ; 12)2 cents. In the upper part of 4, between 4 and 8 is what is called 
the shoulder joint for soup meat ; 10 cents a piece. 

4. In the end of 4 next 1, is the "shoulder clod" which makes No. 1 
pot roasts ; 123^ cents. 

5. Rib roasts ; first cut and best, 15 cents. 
G. Rib roasts ; second cuts 14 cents. 

7. Chuck rib roasts first next to rib roast ana best, 14 to 15 cents. 

8. Upper part, or next 7 are shoulder roasts generally used for pot- 
roasts ; 12^^ cents. 

8. Front part is the neck, good for stews, mince, corning and soup meat ; 
8 cents. 

9. The brisket, extending under the shank (3). This makes stews, 
braises, corned beef, etc. ; 8 cents. 

The fore leg which is bought for 35 cents, will make ten quarts of very 
palatable and nutritious soup and ought to be used far more generally for 
that purpose. The shoulder pieces may be bought for a shilling a pound, 
make excellent pot roasts, and in many respects preferable to round steak 
at 15 cenfs. The neck at 8 cents per pound, is the very best for soups, stews 
and mince meat. An excellent chuck roast may be cut near the neck at a 
shilling a pound. The price of this meat runs in an ascending scale froaa 
the neck to the ribs, but the nutritive value does net. 



CUTTING AND cnMNd MEATS. 



1037 



A— Loin, best end, for roasting. 

B — Loin, chump end, for roasting. 

C— Fillet, for baking or roasting. 

D— Knuckle for stewing. 

E— Fore-knuckle, for stewing. 

F— Neck, best end, for roasting. 

G— Neck, scrag end, for stewing. 

H — Blade bone. 

I — Breast, for stewing. 

K — Brisket, for stewing. 

POKK. 

A — Back, lean part for roast. 
B — Loin, for roast. 
C — Bacon, to be cured. 
D— Shoulder to be cured. 
E — Ham, to be cured. 

MUTTON. 

A — Leg, for boiling piece. 

B — Loin, for roast. 

C— Rump piece, for roast. 

D— Chops, frying or broiling. 

E— Fore-shoulder for boiling. 

F — Neck, for stewing or roasting. 

G— Brisket, for stewing. 





Curing Meats. 

The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to un- 
derstand. Bv its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts. the juices 
from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution 
with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the sat- 
urated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt. In this way, mat- 
ter incapable of putrefaction takes the place of that portion in the meat 
which is most perishable. Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a 
means of preserving meat ; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the 
fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the 
substance of the meat. The last mentioned operation of salt as an antisep_ 



1038 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 



tic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. 
The astringent action of saltpeter on meat is much greater than that of salt, 
and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard ; but in small 
quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also pre- 
vents the destruction of the florid color of meat, which is caused by the ap- 
plication of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, 
that the application of salt and saltpeter diminishes, in a considerable de- 
gree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; 
and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as jjos- 
sible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat. In salting or 
pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not being generally required 
to be kept for a great length of time, a less quantity of salt and a larger 
quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may 
be employed, which could not be adopted by the curer of immense quantities of 
meat. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a 
very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, 
and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consump- 
tion. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of 
meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair its 
mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect, with- 
out the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavor not agreeable to 
the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, 
with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured 
meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture ; and, 
perhaps, now that sugar is much lower in price than it was in former years, 
one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed. 



Brine for Corned Beej. — To one hundred pounds beef, take eight pounds 
salt, five of sugar or five pints molasses (Orleans best, but any good will do), 
two ounces soda, one ounce saltpeter, four gallons soft water, or enough to 
cover the meat. Mix part of the salt and sugar together, rub each piece and 
place it in the barrel (oak is best), having covered the bottom ^^ith salt. 
When the meat is all in, put the remainder of salt and sugar in the water. 
Dissolve the soda and saltpeter in hot water, add it to th« brine and pour 
over the meat ; place board on top of meat, with a weight sufficient to keep 
it under the brine. Let the pieces intended for Dried 5cf/ remain in the 
brine for three weeks, take out, place in a tub, cover with water, let stand 
Dvernight, string and smoke for a few days, if you like, hang it up to ceiling 
over the kitchen stove, or on a frame set behind the stove, turn round once 
a dav so as to give all parts an equal exposure, and let remain for three or 
four'weeks. Test, by cutting a piece, which should be well dried on the 
outside and free from rawness to the center. When dried, sprinkle with 
eround black pepper, put in paper sacks, tie up tightly, and hang in a cool 
drv, dark place, or put, without sacks in an emptv flour barrel, and cover 
closelv. Tongue may be pickled with the beef. After taking out the pieces 
for dried beef it is well to boil the brine, skim well and when cold pour over 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1039 

the pieces of corned beef left in barrel. For a Boiled Brine ; to one gallon 
water take one and a half pounds salt, one-half pound sugar, half ounce each 
(Saltpetre and soda. In this ratio the pickle can be increased to any quant- 
ity desired. Let these be boiled together until all the dirt from the sugar 
and salt rises to the top and is skimmed off; then place in a tub to cool, and 
when cold pour over beef. The meat must be well covered with the pickle, 
and should not be put down for two days after killing, during which time it 
may be slightly sprinkled with salt. Boil and strain every two months, add- 
ing three ounces brown sugar and a half pound common salt, always letting 
brine cool before pouring over the meat. Some in placing pieces of beef in 
barrel slightly sprinkle each layer with salt. 

Spiced Corned Beef. — To ten pounds beef, take two cups salt, two cups 
molasses, one table-spoon saltpeter, one table-spoon ground peper, one table- 
spoon cloves; rub well into the beef, turn every day, and rub the mixture 
in ; will be ready for use in ten days. Some add a table-spoon allspice and 
piece of mace. To cook boil six hours. For a Spiced Brine, to one gallon boil- 
ing water add salt till it bears up an egg, quarter ounce saltpeter, half ounce 
each mustard seed, cloves, and mace, a caj^enne pod, an ounce ginger and a 
pound brown sugar. Boil, skim and when cold pour over the pieces of beef. 
For English Spiced Beef, to around of beef weighing twenty-five pounds, take 
one ounce cloves, three ounces each saltpeter and coarse sugar, half an ounce 
of allspice, six ounces common salt, one nutmeg. The beef should hang two 
or three days ; then take out the bone, and if wished cut in two or three 
pieces, rub the spices and salt thoroughly together, and rub them well into 
the beef on both sides ; cover the beef, turn and rub it every day for two or 
three weeks. When you wish to use it, dip it in cold water to remove the 
loose spice ; bind it closely several times around the sides with a long strip of 
cotton cloth two inches wide ; put it in a pan with half a pint of w^ater in the 
bottom to prevent burning ; cover the top of the meat with shred suet, and 
cover the pan with a crust half an inch thick, made of water and Graham or 
other flour, seeing that it adheres to the edge of the pan. Lay a brown paper 
over the crust : bake it slowly for five or six hours, and whencold remove the 
paste. The gravy, of which there will be a large quantity, may be used in 
soup, in beef-pie or in hash. The place from which the bone was taken may 
be rubbed with fine chopped parsley, and sweet herbs may be laid between 
the skin and the meat. To make a more delicious dish glaze the meat and 
garnish with aspic jelly. Nice for slicing. Less saltpeter can be used if wish- 
ed, and twice the quantity of sugar may be used. 

Philadelphia Dried Beef. — For every twent)^ pounds of beef, take one 
pint salt, one teaspoon saltpeter and a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. 
Divide the ingredients into three equal parts, and rub them well into the 
beef on three successive days. The meat is ready to hang up in one week . 
It makes the beef keep perfectly without being any too salt. Indeed, a trifle 
more salt might be added for those who like it quite salt. 

Stuffed Spiced Beef. — To twenty pounds of round beef take two and a half 
pounds of suet, chopped very fine, and mixed with black pepper until it is 
almost black. Mix with this one handful w hole allspice, and one of whole 
cloves ; punch holes in the meat and stuff with suet : sew up in a bag very 
tight, and cover well with a brine of four gallons of water, one and a half 
pounds of sugar, two ounces of pulverized saltpeter, and six pounds of com- 
mon salt. It is ready for use in three weeks. Boil well, and when cold remove 
the bag, and slice from the cut end. 

To Keep Meat Without Curing. — Hang the piece in a cool place, on the 
north side of cellar, and if the weather should become rainy rub meat with a 



1040 CUTTIJSG AND CURING MEATS. 

little salt. Always hang with the cut side up as otherwise the essence of the 
meat would be wasted. In fall and winter meat may be kept quite a long 
time in this manner. If for any reason there is danger of tainting rub with 
salt as above. Some rub either beef or mutton well with salt and put in a 
closely covered vessel and keep for months ; always turning the pieces when 
the cover is removed. Beefsteak for Winter Use, cut the steaks large, and 
the usual thickness ; have ready a mixture made of salt, sugar and finely 
powdered saltpeter, mix in the same proportion as for corned beef ; sprinkle 
the bottom of a large jar with salt, lay in a piece of steak, and sprinkle over 
it some of the mixture, as much or a little more than you would use to sea- 
son in cooking, then put in another slice, sprinkle, and so on until the jar is 
filled, with a sprinkle of the mixture on top.; over all put a plate, with a weight 
on it, and set in a cool, airy place, where it will not freeze. This needs no 
brine, as it makes a brine of its own. Thirty-five or forty pounds can be 
kept perfectly sweet in this way. Take out to use as wanted, and broil or fry. 

To Keep Meat Fresh in Hot Weather. — For a five-pound piece of meat take 
a three-gallon stone crock ; have some pans of skimmed milk that is turning 
sour, just getting thick ; put some of the milk in the crock ; then put in the 
meat ; then put in milk till it covers the meat ; now turn an earthen dish or 
plate bottom-up on the meat to hold it down ; fill the crock with the milk ; tie 
a cloth over the top, and set in a cool place ; it will keep five or six days in the 
hottest weather. When wanted for use, wash thoroughly in water, and cook 
in any manner desired. 

To Cure and Dry Beef Tongues. — For one dozen tongues make a brine of a 
gallon and a half of water (or enough to cover them well) , two pints good salt, 
one of molasses, or one pound brown sugar, and four red peppers ; bring to a 
boil, skim, and set to cool. Pack the tongues in a large jar, and when the 
brine is entirely cold, pour it over them, put on a weight, let remain ten or 
twelve days, take out, drain, and hang to smoke about two days, then dry 
moderately, and put aw'ay in a flour sack in a dry place. When wanted for 
use, boil six or eight hours in a pot filled with water, adding more when nec- 
essaiy so as to keep well covered all the time until done ; when done, take out 
and set away to cool, but do not skin until needed for the table. Some add 
to this a half ounce saltpeter and many think an ordinary sized tongue should 
remain in pickle about a month and be turned every day. If they are not 
dried, but left in pickle till used, the brine should be boiled, skimmed and 
cooled once in two weeks. For Philadelphia Cured Tongues, trim and lay six 
or eight tongues in boiling water for five minutes. After they are cool, rub 
them with a quarter of an ounce of saltpeter mixed with a quarter of a pound 
of sugar or a small cup of molasses, and two handsful of common salt, and 
some add tablespoon ground cloves. Pack them in an earthen or a porcelain 
vessel, sprinkle each layer with the mixture, and put a weight on top ; turn 
them every other day, putting top one in bottom, and packing them very 
closely. If there is not enough pickle to quite cover them, sprinkle lightly 
with salt. After two or three weeks hang up, and when dry put away as a- 
bove. If you do not desire to use a whole one at once, it does not injure it to 
be cut in two ; but it is best to dip the end that is cut in boiling water a mo- 
ment to seal up the pores ; or a way prefered by many is as follows ; sprinkle 
a handful of salt over one tongue on both sides, let it remain to drain until 
the following day, make a pickle of a tablespoonful of common salt, half that 
quantity of saltpeter, and the same quantity of coarse sugar as of salt ; rub 
this mixture well into the tongue, do so every day for a week ; it will then be 
found necessary to add more salt, a table-spoonful will suffice ; in four more 
(lays the tongue will be cured sufficiently. Some persons do not rub the 
]nckle into the tongue, butletit absorb it, merely turning it daily ; this method 
will be found to occupy a month or five weeks before it will be cured. When 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1041 

the tongue is to be dried aflBx a paper to it with a date ; smoke over a wood 
fire four daj'S unless wrapped in paper, and then as many weeks will be re- 
quired. As many tongues as wished can be cured as above by increasing 
amount of mixture. 

To Clean Tr/pe.— Empty the pauncn and rinse thoroughly in cold water, 
being careful not to let any of the contents get on the outside. Make stron^ 
cleansed water or white lye and heat a little, too warm to hold hands in, pour 
over the tripe in a tub and let it stand two or three hours ; then turn inside 
out, tack it up against a board, and with a knife scrape downwards, taking 
off the inner skin, or rinse it clean in cold water; sprinkle lime over, then 
scrape with a knife ; if the dark does not all come off easily, sprinkle' more 
lime on, and let it lie for an hour longer, then scrape again, and rinse in cold 
water and clean. Place in water enough to cover with a large handful of salt 
and let the tripe remain in the salt water three davs and nights, changing 
the water each day, then take out, cut in pieces about six inches wide and 
twelve long, lay in buttermilk a few days to whiten ; rinse it clean in cold 
water, and boil until tender; it will take from four to ten hours, as it should 
be done so that it can by mashed with the fingers. After thus prepared it 
can be cooked as preferred. After turning inside out some sew it up so that the 
lime cannot get in, and put to soak in limewater of the consistency of thick 
whitewash ; leave in this twenty minutes, or until the dark skin peels off 
easily. Rinse several times in clean water and with a dull knife scrape off 
the dark surface, continue to soak and scrape several times to remove all of- 
fensive sebstances and smell. Then soak twenty or thirty minutes in hot 
water, changing two or three times, scraping ove'r each time, put in salt and 
water twelve hours (some have the water hot) and it is ready for cooking- 
Another way is after rinsing thoroughly to cut the tripe in convenient pieces 
and taking them on a fork dip them into a boiling mixture of a half pint lime 
and gallon water. Then scrape on a board, dipping again if necessarv to 
loosen offensive matter. Then finish as above, and when ready to cook' put 
it first in water to cover with a table-spoon baking soda ; when it boils turn 
water offand then cook as wanted. In buying tripe get the "honey-combed." 

How to Cut up Pori.— Split through the spine, cut off each half of liead 
behind the ear, remove the pieces in front of the shoulder, for sausage. Take 
out /ea/ which lies around the kidneys, for lard ; cut out the lean meat ribs 
etc , then the ham and shoulder, anii remove the loose pieces directly in front 
of the ham, for ]*ard. _ Cut off a narrow strip of the rDelly for sausage ; and cut 
up the remainder which is clear pork, into five or six strips of about equal 
width for salting down. Smoke the jowl with hams, and use the upper part 
of the head for boiling, or baking, or head-cheese. Scorch the feet over the 
fire until the hoofs remove easily, scrape clean, place in hot water a few min- 
utes, wash and scrape thoroughly and they are ready for cooking. All the 
flabby pieces should be tried up "for lard. Remove all fat from intestines 
saving that which does not easily come oft the larger intestines for soap- 
grease. The liver, heart, sweet-breads and kidneys are all used for boiling 
or frying, and the smaller intestines are sometimes used for sausage cases. 

To Cure Hams and Shoulders. — Make brine as in the first recipe for Corned 
Beef with the addition of two pounds more of salt. Take part of the mixture 
of salt and sugar, rub each piece thoroughly on fleshy side, lay in barrel 
(having first covered the bottom with salt) skin side down. When all are in 
make a pickle of the remainder of the mixture, as directed and pour over the 
meat : have a round board, a little smaller than the barrel, place on the meat 
with a weight (a large stone is good, which can be washed clean and laid a- 
way to be used year after year,) sufficient to keep it under the brine ; let re- 



1042 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 



main from four to eight weeks, according to size ; take out and soak in water 
over niyht, as tliis prevents a white crust from forming upon the sides of the 
ham when dried and smoked, drain and sprinkle with cayenne pepper, par- 
ticularly around the boue. Hang them ready to smoke, let them drain for 
two days and then smoke with corn cobs or green hickory or maple wood, 
taking care to have smoke, but not fire enough to make heat. Hang up to smoke 
with hock downwards, as the skin then retains the juices of the meat. After 
smoking from two to four weeks take down, sprinkle with ground black pep- 
per, tie tightly in whole paper sacks, hang in a dry, dark, cool place, watch- 
ing closely for fear of mold. Or, wrap in paper, sew in a coarse, cotton bag, 
whitewash on the outside and hang near the roof in the garret ; or, wrap in 
brown paper, and cover with dry ashes (dry leached ashes are best) ; or, pack 
without sacks, hock end uppermost, in oats or shelled corn, or in clean, sweet 
haj', before flies come. Cover box or barrel closely, and keep in a dry, cool 
place. If there is any danger from flies, take direct from smoke-house and 
pack immediately. Brine for Pickled Pork should have all the salt it will 
dissolve, and a peck or half bushel in bottom of barrel with salt between each 
layer. If pork is salted in this waj^ it will never spoil, but the strength of 
the brine makes it necessary to salt the hams and sides separately. Pork 
when killed should be thoroughly cooled before salting, but should not remain 
longer than one or two days. It should never be frozen before salting, as 
this is as injurious as salting before it is cooled. Large quantities of pork are 
lost by failing to observe these rules. If pickled pork begins to sour, take it 
out of the brine, rinse well in clear, cold water, place a layer in a barrel, on 
this place charcoal in lumps the size of a hen's egg or smaller, add a layer of 
meat and so on, until all is in the barrel, cover with a weak brine, let stand 
twenty-four hours ; take meat out, rinse ofi'the charcoal, put it into a new, 
strong brine, remembering always to have plenty of salt in the barrel (more 
than the water will dissolve.) Or another way is to take out the pork rub it 
thoroughly with salt and smoke it. This renews it perfectly. If the same 
barrel is used, cleanse it by placing a small quantity of quicklime in it, slack 
with hot water, add as much salt as the water will dissolve, and cover tightly 
to keep the steam in ; let stand for a few hours or over night, rinse well, and 
it is ready for use. This is an excellent way to cleanse any barrel that has 
become impure, or wash out with strong lye. The pork must not be salted in 
whisky barrels ; molasses barrels are the best. The whisky is said to injure 
the bacon. Or for Buckeye Ham and Bacon, when pig is killed and cool, cut 
up, and begin immediately to salt. Rub the outside of each ham with a tea- 
spoon of powdered saltpeter, and the inside with a teaspoon* of cayenne pep- 
per. Mix together two pounds of brown sugar and salt, mixed in the proportion 
of one pound and a half of sugar to a pint of salt, and rub the pork well with 
it. This quantity of sugar and salt will be sufticient for fifty pounds of meat. 
Have ready some lai'ge tubs, the bottom sprinkled with salt, and lay the meat 
in the tubs with the skin downward. Put plenty of salt between each layer 
of meat. After it has lain eight days, take it out and wipe off the salt, and 
wash the tubs. Make a pickle of soft water, equal quantities of salt and mo- 
lasses and a little saltpeter ; allowing five ounces of saltpeter to two quarts of 
molasses and two quarts of salt, which is the proportion for fifty pounds of 
meat. The pickle must be strong enough to bear up an egg. Boil and skim 
it, and, when it is cold, pour it over the meat, which must be turned frequently 
and basted with the pickle. The hams should remain in the pickle at least 
four weeks ; the bacon three weeks. They should then be taken out and 
smoked. Having washed off the pickle, before you smoke the meat, bury it 
while yet wet in a tub of bran, or sawdust from hard wood. This will form 
a crust over it and prevent the smoke from getting into the little openings, 
and also prevent evaporation of the juices. Let the smoke-house be ready 
to receive the meat immediately. Take it out of the tub after it has lain half 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1048 

an hour, and rub the bran evenly over it, and by sewing a covering of mosquito 
netting around the hams and shoulders the outside is kept cleaner. Some 
use only the mosquito sack without rubbing over with bran. Those who have 
very tender hams claim it is caused by hanging them two days after killing, 
then beating with a rolling pin and salting and finishing as above. There are 
a few other things that must be remembered in order to have the meat of 
a pleasant taste. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be 
cool, but well ventilated; confined air, though cool, w.ill taint meat sooner 
than the mid-day sun, accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking 
the bacon, two precautions are necessary ; first, to hang the pieces "wdiere no 
rain comes down upon them ; and next, that the smoke must proceed from 
wood, not peat, turf or coal. As to the time required to smoke it, it depends 
a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath ; and whether the 
fire be large or small ; a month will do if the fire be pretty constant and rich, 
as a farm-house fire usually is ; but over-smoking, or rather too long hanging 
in the air, makes the bacon rust ; great attention should therefore be paid to 
the matter. The pieces ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, 
and yet ought to be perfectly dry. For Yorh Hams, mix for each good sized 
ham, teacup salt, tablespoon molasses, ounce saltpeter ; lay hams in clean dry 
tub ; heat mixture and rub well into hams, especially around the bones and 
recesses ; repeat process once or twice, or until mixture is used ; then let hams 
lie two or three days, when they must be put for three weeks in brine strong 
enough to bear an egg ; then soak eight hours in cold water ; hang up to dry 
in the kitchen or other more convenient place for a week or more and they 
are ready to be smoked. Then hang up to smoke with the small end down- 
ward. Tongues may be cured in the above manner. 

Philadelphia Hams. — Lay hams to be cured on a slanting board, and rub 
with fine salt. Let them lay forty-eight hours ; then wipe off the salt with a 
dry towel, and to each ham take a teaspoon of powdered saltpeter and a 
dessertspoon of coarse brown sugar and rub well to the fleshy parts ; then 
pack in a tub, skins down ; sprinkle between each layer with a little fine salt. 
In five days cover them with a pickle made as follows : To one gallon of 
water take one and a half pounds of coarse sugar. Let them lay five, six or 
seven weeks, according to size. Hang them up to dry several days before 
smoking. The pickle should stand and be skimmed, and must be cold. 

Virginia Hams. — Smoke the barrel, in which hams are to be pickled, 
by inverting it over a kettle containing a slow fire of hard wood, for eight 
days (keeping water on the head to prevent shrinking) ; in this barrel pack 
liams, and pour over them, after it has cooled, a brine made in proportion 
of four gallons of water, eight pounds oi salt, five pints of molasses, and four 
ounces saltpeter, boiled and skimmed in the usual manner. They will be 
cured in eight or nine days, and they may be kept in the pickle for a year 
without damage. 

To Cure Small Hams. — In the fall, about first of November, people in 
the country generally kill a good-sized pig, to last until "butchering time." 
To cure hams of such, first rub well, especially around the bone on fleshy 
side, with one-half of the salt, sugar, cayenne and saltpetre, well pulver- 
ized (same proportions as for corned-beef), adding a teaspoon of allspice to 
each ham ; put a layer of salt in bottom of cask, and pack in hams as closely 
as possible ; let stand three or four days, then make brine of the other half 
of salt, etc., and pour over meat, putting a good weight on top ; when it has 
lain three or four weeks it is ready for use. For Hams with Vinegar, mh 
hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or two to drain ; then 
rub in well the following proportions of sugar, salt, saltpeter, and vinegar. 



1044 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 

and turn them every other day To a ham from ten to twelve pounds, al- 
low one pound of coarse sugar, three-fourths pound salt, one ounce saltpeter, 
lialf teacup vinegar. Keep them in the pickle one month, drain and smoke 
over a wood fire for three weeks or a month. 

To Keep Hams. — For one hundred pounds of meat, take eight pounds of 
salt, two ounces saltpeter, and four gallons water; put hams in this pickle in 
the fall, keeping them well under the brine ; in April, take out, drain three 
or four days, slice as for cooking, trim off rind, fry nearly as much as for 
table, pack in stone jars, pressing down the slices as fast as they are laid 
in the jars ; when full, put on a weight, and when entirely cold cover with 
the fat fried out, or with melted lard and cover jar closely. Prepared in 
this way, they retain the ham flavor without being smoked. The gravy left 
from frying will be found very useful in cooking. When ham is wanted for 
use, scrape off the lard, remove a layer of meat, and always he jmrticular to 
melt the lard and return it immediately to the jar. It will keep througli the 
season. Any ham may be packed away in this manner at any time and 
some prefer to soak as for cooking, after slicing, and place in oven and only 
cook slightly, then pack and cover as above. 

Pickled Pork. — Some put it up successfully in this way, take a tub, larg- 
est at the bottom and tapering to the top, large enough to hold the year's 
supply ; when packed as it should be, the meat will not rise to the top, the 
slant of the tub holding it down. It should he packed edgewise, in regular 
layers, as solid as possible. After putting a layer of salt in the bottom of 
the tub and pounding down the meat with a maul, fill the interstices with 
salt ; then alternate layers of meat and salt till the tub is full. Fill ujj with 
pure water. If the barrel is sweet, the salt pure, the meat sound, there will 
be no damaged pork, nor will skimming and scalding the brine be necessary 
to have sweet pork ihe year round. For putting down a small amount in a 
stone jar, completely cover the bottom of a large stone jar (one that will 
hold five or six gallons or more) with salt. Cut side meat in strips four or 
five inches wide and pack in a jar on the edge placing the skin next the jar ; 
lay it round close as possible till the bottomof the jar is full, cover this com- 
pletely with salt, aud so ou till the jar is full. Then make a brine strong 
enough to bear an egg, and pour over the meat till it is covered. Meat if put 
up this way will keep till late in the fall and taste nearly as nice and sweet 
as fresh meat. For Western Reserve Pickled Pork, allow the meat to stand 
until the animal heat is entirely out of it ; cut the sides into strips crosswise ; 
cover the bottom of a barrel with salt, and pack in the pork closely edge- 
wise, with rind next the barrel ; cover each layer with salt, and proceed in 
like manner until all has been put in. Make a strong brine sufficient to 
cover the pork (soft water is best, and there is no danger of getting it too 
salt), boil, skim and pour into the barrel while boiling hot. Have a board 
cut out round, a little smaller than the barrel, put over the pork, and on it 
place a weight heavy enough to keep it always under the brine. If at any 
time the brine froths or looks red, it must be turned oS", scalded and re- 
turned while hot. Never put dotd brine on old pork, unless you wish to lose it. 
In salting down a new supply of pork, boil down the old brine, remove the 
scum, and then pour it over the pork as above. 

Trying Lard. — When the leaf lard is taken from the hog, it should be 
placed in a clean tub. If any pieces are bloody they ought to be placed in 
lukewarm water, letting them remain until thoroughly cleansed, then drain 
well and use with the other lard. The leaf lard can be cut up in pieces an 
inch square. Have kettle on fire on stove with a little water, to which add 
the cut up lard, letting it heat gradually; stir with a wooden stick (hickory 
or maple) or a long handled iron spoon. The fat pieces of meat, which art 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1045 

also used for lard, are cut in same manner, after taking oflf the skin, and 
added to the leaf lard in kettle. The skins should be laid by themselves to 
be tried out after the lard is done. While the lard is trying, as soon as the 
water is all boiled out, which can be told by the clearness of the fat (when 
there is water, it has a slightly milky appearance) you can begin dipping ofi' 
the clear lard and straining it into the vessels ready for its use (stone crocks 
are best). Some think the quahty of the lard is improved by sprinkling 
over and slowly stirring in one tablespoon of soda to every five gallons of 
lard, just before removing from the lire. After adding soda, the kettle must 
be removed from the stove, and watched closely, and stirred constantly, as 
it foams rapidly, and is very likely to run over, and if on stove, is likely to 
take fire. Do not take out the pieces of meat until well done. Be_ careful 
not to let it burn ; it is very easily scorched just at the last ; when finished, 
the cracklings should be of a light brown color. A good w^ay to strain it is 
to place a towel over a colander, dip the lard into it, when sufiicient is in, 
two persons, one at each end, can twist the towel until all the lard is out. 
Put the cracklings in a vessel, dip out more lard ; continue this way until all 
the lard is disposed of. Set the jar in a cool place and stir it frequently 
with the wooden spoon, so as to insure the cooling of the center as quickly 
as the outside ; this prevents the lard from becoming frory in the middle ; 
or set the lard in milk pans to cool. When cold, cut out, place in jars and 
pour over it melted lard almost cold until it is smooth on top. When ready 
to set away place a cloth i linen is the best) over it, with one or two inches 
of salt on top of cloth ; then cover the jar with thick cloth or paper, set in a 
dry, dark place. The web always needs to be soaked in lukewarm water 
overnight, then drained well, after which it can be cut up and tried with the 
other lard. It is used by the best housekeepers for clean lard. That from 
the smaller intestines, and the flabby pieces, not fit for salting should be 
thrown into lukewarm water and allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, and 
then should be tried by itself, and the lard set away where it will freeze, 
and, by spring, the strong taste will be gone. A teacup of water prevents 
burning while trying. The skins can be cut into pieces two or three inches 
square, placed in a large dripping pun and set in the oven to try out, as they 
apt to burn or stick to the kettle ; stir them often, do not let them burn. 
They yield quite an amount of fat which is always useful in a family ; then 
the skins themselves make good soap grease. To Keep Lard From Mold- 
ing use a tub that has had no tainted lard or meat in it ; scour it out thor- 
oughly with two quarts of wheat bran to four of boiling water, but use no 
lye or soap. Fry the lard until the scraps are brown, but not scorched or 
burned; remove from the fire, cool until it can be handled, and strain into 
the prepared tub ; when cold, set it away in the cellar. Lard dipped oft" as 
fast as it melts will look very white, but will not keep through the summer. 
No salt should be added, as it induces moisture and invites mold. 

£m^(;n.— Split and nicely clean a hog's head ; take out brains ; cut off 
ears, and rub a good deal of salt into head ; let drain twenty-four hours ; 
then lay on it two ounces saltpeter, and salt, for three days ; lay the head 
and salt into a pan, with just water to cover for two days more. Wash well, 
and boil until bones will come out; remove them, and chop meat as quickly 
as possible in pieces an inch long; but first take skin carefully off'head and 
tongue ; cut the latter also in bits. Season with pepper and salt. Put the 
skin of one side of head into a small long pan ; press chopped head and 
tongue into it, and lay skin of other side of head over, and press it down. 
When cold, it will turn out. The head may probably be too fat; in which 
case, prepare a few bits of lean pork with head. Boil two ounces salt, pint 
vinegar, and quart of the liquor, and, when cold, pour it over the head. The 
ears are to be boiled longer than head; cut in thin strips, and add to it. 
Raboil th© pickle often. 



1046 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 




Smoke-honscs. — This is one of the nicest arrangements for smoking meat 
that a model farm can have, as it makes a safe re- 
ceptacle for ashes and also smokes meat when want 
ed; but a good and cheap smoke house quickly and 
easily made is to dig a trench about three feet long, 
^done half foot wide, cover it with brick, and then 
dirt ; at one end of the trench dig a hole about two 
feet deep, and large enough to set an old kettle or 
something to hold the fire, at the other end of the 
trench, place a barrel, (with top heads out), put a 
stick across the top, on which to hang the meat ; 
cover the barrel with old carpet, or anything to 
hold the smoke in. Or take an old hogshead, stop 
up all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross- 
stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be 
smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the 
top, to introduce an ii'on pan filled with sawdust 
and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the 
tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross- 
stieks, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and 
place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it 
with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large 
ham remain forty hours, and keep up a good smoke. 

Sausages. — To make these easily and perfectly a meat chopper is almost 
indispensable. It is also of great help in 
making mince-meat. 

Beef Sausages. — Chop very fine three 
pounds very lean beef with a pound and a 
half suet. Season with powdered sage, 
allspice, pepper and salt and force the 
meat into skins that have been thoroughly 
cleansed, or make into cakes. 

Bologna Sausage. — Six pounds lean pork, three of beef, two of suet, four 
ounces salt, six tablespoons black pepper, two tablespoons cayenne pepper, 
two teaspoons cloves, one teaspoon allspice, and one minced onion ; or season 
to taste. Grind the meat and mix well with the seasoning ; pack in beef 
skins, tie both ends tight, and lay in strong brine for a week, then change 
into a new brine for another week, turning them frequently. Take the^in 
out, wipe dry, and smoke them; rub the surface with butter, and hang in a 
cool dark place. Or take equal quantities of bacon (fat and lean), beef, 
veal, pork, and beef suet, grind together, season with pepper, salt, sweet 
herbs, sage rubbed fine, and spices if liked and sifted bread crumbs or boiler 
rice is sometimes added, though this is not done when the sausage is wanted 
to keep any length of time. Fill skins and prick them; boil gently an hour, and 
lay on a straw or hang up to dry. May be smoked as above. An equal 
weight of ham, veal and pork, highly seasoned and boiled in casings till 
tender, then dried, makes very nice_ Bologna sausage also, and they are 
often made of beef and pork alone, using proportion of about one third pork 
to two-thirds beef, Season to taste and put up as above. A nice way of 
serving is to cut into slices not quite a quarter of an inch thick, skin them 
and lay them lapping over each other round a mound of parsley. This is of 
the nature of a salad and may be served with the cheese course or just after 
the soup and fish courses. 




CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1041 



Liver Sausage. — Boil pigs' livers, mince, and season with pepper, salt, 
cloves, chopped sweet marjoram and sage. Put in skins, prick them, and 
b(Jil slowly an hour or so. Keep in covered jars, to eat cold in slices, or to 
fry in larger pieces. Boiled pigs' feet may be mixed with the livers. 

Mixed Sausages. — Clean carefully two hogs' heads, two lights, two livers 
and cut oft" all the good parts of a dozen melts ; soak overnight in a tub of salt 
and water with a half dozen sweetl^reads and same number of kidneys split 
open. In the morning put all in a kettle to lx)il with two slices fat pork ; 
when done cool a little and grind in a sausage grinder, adding some of the 
fat skimmed from top of kettle. While grinding, season with black pepper, 
salt and finely chopped onion to taste. If not rich enough add more fat 
pork ; if stuffed boil again for a few moments. 

Pork Saufiage. — A good rule is to allow one third fat meat to two tlurds 
lean, a teaspoon each salt, pepper and sage to each pound meat, and a teas- 
poon each allspice or cloves, ginger and stimmer savory to every three 
pounds. Or season to taste, and when making a quantity it is well to test 
by frying a little, and add more seasoning if liked. When making for long 
keeping do not add either flour or bread crumbs, which are sometimes useil 
to keep the fat from running out wlien cold. Put through a sausage grinder 
or chop fine. Press into thoroughly cleaned skins, or pack in jars, covering 
with lard or clarified drippings to depth of half an inch and tie paper over. 
For Buckeye Pork Sausage, to ten pounds meat take five tablespoons sage, 
four of salt and two of pepper. Some add one tablespoon ginger, and some 
a little summer savory. When nicely minced, pack in jars as above. If 
ke]>tin a cool place, and care taken to replace the lard, there is no difficulty 
in kee]ung sausage perfectly fresh almost any length of time. Some per- 
sons partially cook meat before packing, btit this is not. necessary. Fresh 
meat may be kept nicely in the same way, being first seasoned with salt and 
])eiii)er. Or, one pound salt, one-half pint of sage and three and one-half 
oiuices pepper, scattered over forty j)nunds of meat before grinding. For 
Cold Sliced Sausage, tise small, well-baked, earthen pots; take one handful 
of sausage after another, press firmly into the pot until it is nearly full. Then 
place in an oven, hot enouglx to bake bread ; bake a puarter of an hour for 
each j)ound of sausage ; that is, if there are eight pounds, bake for two hours ; 
and wlien done, place a weight on it until it is cold ; remove the weight ami 
fill with hot lard. Place upside down on a shelf in a dark, dry corner of the 
cellar until wanted ; then put in oven long enough to melt the lard ; remove 
sausage from pot, and, when cold, slice for table. Put no sage in sausage 
that is to be kept so long. 

Summer Sausage. — In summer, when fresh i)ork cannot be procureil. 
very good sausage-cakes may be made of raw beef, chopped fine with salt 
pork, seasoned with pepper and sage, and spices and herbs if liked. 

Triple Sausage. — Take equal parts pork (fat and lean.) veal and beef suet, 
grind or chop fine and to every three pounds meat and seasoning of grated 
rind of half a lemon, small nutmeg grated, six powdered sage leaves, one 
teaspoon jpepper, two of salt and half teaspoon each summer savory and 
marjoram with a half pint bread crumbs. Pack for use as Pork Sausage. 

Virginia Sausage. — Pick the sausage meat to get out all the pieces of 
bones and strings ; wash it in hike wacm water, and lay on a table to drain ; 
let it stand all night. Take off some of the fat from the backbone to mix 
with the lean. If you use "leaf fat" when you fry tlie sausage, it will melt 
away to gravy and leave a little knot of lean, hard and dry, floating in a sea 
of melted grease, The fat must be taken off' before the chines are salted, 
and washed, skinned and put to drain with the lean. Next day, chop it 



1U48 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 

fine, picking out all the strings. When fine enough, season it with salt, 
sage, black and red pepper, to taste. Pack it in a close vessel. If you wish 
to stuff" them, have some nicely-cleaned chitterlings kept in salt and water 
ten days or a fortnight. Stuff, hang on sticks and dry. A little smoke im- 
proves them ; too much makes them bitter. 

Mutton. — This is cut up as directed and corned and dried the same way 
that beef is. 

Veal. — To cut the pieces up for use follow directions in illustration. For 
Calf's Head and Feet, the first thing to do is to remove the hair, unless pur- 
chased at the butchers when they will be nicely scraped, and will only need 
to be wiped carefully with a damp towel so that no hair adheres. To remove 
the entire hair drop the head and feet into a tub of hot water that has had a 
shovelful of wood ashes boiled in it, or a few crumbs of concentrated lye, or 
washing soda. The water must not be quite boiling hot, as that will set the 
hair and make cleaning difticult. Churn them about with a stick of wood a 
few minutes, then scrape with a sharp knife. Put the head into cold water 
and leave it there to draw out the l)lood for a moment, and dry well with a 
towel. Roast the hoofs in hot coals and pry off with a knife point, or some 
wash head and feet clean, sprinkle powdered resin over the hair, dip them 
in boiling water and take out immediately, and then scrape them clean ; after- 
wards soak them in water four days, changing the water every day. 

To prepare for use there are difterent ways ; some cut from between the 
ea"s to the nose touching the bones ; then cutting close to it, take off flesh, 
turn over the head, cut open the jaw-bone from underneath, and take out 
tongue whole. Turn the head back again, crack the top of skull between the 
ears and take out the brains whole ; cut the head through the center, remove 
the skin from the nasal passage and cleanse thoroughly by scraping and 
scalding. Or remove the skin, cut open from throat to edge of lower jaw, 
without breaking more than necessary and put skin aside in cold water for 
soup. To remove the brain Cut the ekull with a meat saw from between the 
ears and above the eyes and the brain may be then taken out without breaking. 

To Bone a Head ; place it on table with the front part of the head facing 
you ; draw the sharp point of a knife from the back part of the head right 
down to the nose, making an incision down to the bone of the skull ; then 
with the knife clear the scalp and cheeks from the bones right and left, always 
keeping the point of the knife close to the bone. If you have not previously 
removed the brains, they are best removed before boning, chop the head in 
two and remove them as carefully as possible. When the head has been 
boned wash it well, wipe it with a clean cloth, season the inside with salt 
and pepper, roll it up with the tongue, tie it up, and parboil it in hot water 
for ten minutes ; then put it into cold water a few minutes, wipe it dry, and 
set it aside until wanted ; this is blanching it. In removing brains be very 
careful not to break them ; prepare them either by single or double blanching. 
To Single Blanch first soak in salted water one hour or simply wash in several 
waters, then remove every particle of the thin skin or membrane covering 
the soft inner substance very carefully without breaking ; put over the fire in 
quart cold water with a seasoning of salt and table-spoon vinegar and boil 
fifteen minutes, lay in cold water till wanted which should not be very long. 
To Double Blanch, cover them with cold water and let heat slowly until the 
fine outside skin can be removed easily, then put them in fresh water and let 
them heat again slowly, till all the blood comes out and they are entirely 
white. Take them out and put in boiling water with a little salt and table- 
spoon vinegar, boil them hard for ten minutes or till quite firm. Take them 
but and drop into cold water for a few minutes or till ready for use, although 
that should not be long, then drain on a cloth. 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1049 

Sweet-breads. — These are considered great delicacies and are the most ex- 
pensive parts of meat. Those of calves are best, but for hints as to purchasing 
see Marketing. Blanching Siveet-breads is alwaj^s necessary before cooking, 
and as they will not keep long this should be done as soon as brought from 
market. Some put them for half an hour in luke-warm water, then throw 
into boiling water to blanch and harden, and then into cold or ice water to 
cool ; after which draw off the outer casing, trim off all particles of fat, veins, 
membranes, etc., and cook as liked. Others put to soak in cold water for 
about an hour, adding tablespoon salt to each quart water. Then draw a 
lardoon of pork through the center of each, put into salted boiling water and 
cook until thoroughly done. Throw again into cold water for a few minutes 
and they will be firm and white. Carefully remove the skin and little pipes 
and set away in cool place until ready to cook, fc^ome merely skin, then 
place in cold water ten minutes or so, when they are ready to boil. Sweet- 
breads should always be parboiled twenty minutes before cooking in any 
manner. Any flavor liked may be given sweet-breads by adding spices, herbs, 
or vegetables to the water in which they are parboiled. A good rule for two 
quarts water is, two tablespoons vinegar, one of salt, a bay leaf, dozen whole 
cloves, teaspoon pepper corns, small red pepper, sprig of any dry herb, except 
sage, (thyme marjoram or summer savory) sprigs of parsley, or small root of 
•parsley. Set away in cool, place nntil dry wanted. 

Poultry. — Are served either whole or cut up. Do not feed poultry for 
twenty-four hours before killing ; and some give them a tablespoon of vinegar 
an hour before killing ; catch them without frightning or bruising, tie the feet 
together, hang up on a horizontal pole, tie the wings together over the back 
with a strip of soft cotton cloth : let them hang five minutes, then cut the 
throat or cut off the head with a very sharp knife, and allow them to hang 
until the blood has ceased to drip. The thorough bleeding renders the meat 
more white and wholesome. Scald well by dipping in and out of a pail or 
tub of boiling water, being careful not to scald so much as to set the feathers 
and make them more difficult to pluck ; place the fowl on a board with head 
towards you, pull the feathers away from you which will be in the direction 
they naturally lie (if pulled in a contrary direction the skin is likely to be 
torn), be careful to remove all the pin-feathers with a knife or pair of tweezers ; 
singe, but not smoke, over blazing paper on the stove, or some prefer alcohol. 

To Cut up a Chicken. — Lay the chicken on a board kept for the purpose, 
cut off the feet at first joint ; cut a slit in the neck, take out the windpipe and 
crop, cut off" the wings and legs at the joint which unites them to the body, 
separate the first joint of the leg from the second, cut off the oil bag, make a 
slit horizontally under the tail, cut the end of the entrails loose, extend the 
slit on each side of the joint where the legs were cut off; then, with the left 
hand, hold the breast of the chicken, and with the right, bend back the rump 
until the joint in the back separates, cut it clear and place in water. Take 
out the entails, using a shairp knife to separate the eggs (if any), and all other 
particles to be removed, from the back, being careful in removing the heart 
and liver not to break the gall-bag (a small sack of blue-green color about an 
inch long attached to the liver) ; separate the back and breast ; commence at 
the high point of the breast and cut downwards towards the head, taking off 
part of the breast with the wish-bone ; cut the neck from that part of the back 
to which the ribs are attached, turn the skin off the neck, and take out all 
lumps and stringy substances ; very carefully remove the gall-bag from the 
liver, and clean the gizzard by making an incision through the thick part and 
first lining, peeling off the fleshy part, leaving the inside whole and ball- 
shaped; if the lining breaks, open the gizzard, pour out contents, peel off 
inner lining, and wash thoroughly. After washing in second water, the chick- 
en is ready to be cooked. Some prefer to cut the chicken with a sharp knife, 



1050 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 



thinking that when divided according to the joints some portions will be bare 
Df meat. To do this, after cleaning, split the fowl in halves lengthwise. This 
can be done by cutting down the middle of the back with a sharp kitchen 
knife, laying the fowl wide open and chopping through the breast bone in- 
side. Lay a half on the board and sever the drumsticks by chopping through 
tlie joint. Chop through the hip joint, or a little on the meaty side of it, and 
slantwise, taking at that cut the side bone and tail end, all sufficiently cov- 
ered with meat, a little derived from the second joint, and then cut off the 
second joint by chopping straight acrosss the fowl, making three pieces of 
equal weight of that quarter. Cut off the two small joints of the wing. Chop 
off the main joint slantwise, so that it will have attached to it the piece of 
neck bone and a small portion of the breast. There willl remain nearly the 
entire breast, which should be chopped straight across andniade two pieces. 
Cut up the other half of the fowl in the same way. It is just the skillful 
carving of a whole cooked fowl in results ; a proper method of cutting up 
gives each person at table a piece of meat of equally good appearance, and 
not to one meat and to next a dark-looking piece of bone, already stripped. 

To Cut up a Turkey to Cook Whole. — After killing and singeing, plump it 
by plunging quickly three times into boiling water and then three times into 
cold, holding it by the legs ; place on a meat-board, and with a sharp knife 
cut off the legs a little below the knee, to prevent the muscles from shriuK- 
ing away from the joint, and remove the oil-bag from 
the tail ; take out the crop, either by making a slit 
at the back of the neck or in front(the latter is better) 
taking care that every thing pertaining to the crop 
or windpipe is removed, cut the neck-bone off close 
to the body, leaving the skin a good length to be 
stuffed ; cut around vent, cut a slit three inches long 
from the tail upwards, being careful to cut only 
through the skin, put in the linger at the breast and 
detact all the intestines, taking care not to burst the 
gall-bag (situated near the upper part of the breast-bone, and attached to 
the liver; if broken, no washing can remove the bitter taint left on every 
spot it touches) ; put in the hand at the in- 
cision near the tail and draw out carefully 
all intestines ; split the gizzard and take out 
the inside and inner lining (throw liver, 
heart, and gizzard into water, wash well, 
and lay aside to be cooked and used for the 
gravy) ; wash the fowl thoroughly^ in coltl 
V ater twice, (some wipe carefully with a wet 
cloth, and aftt^rwards with a dry cloth to 

make perfectly clean, instead of washing), Front of ohickcn. Back of chicken, 

hang up to clrain, then stuff, skewer, and place to roast as directed in Roast 
Turkey. A chicken is prepared in same way arftl trussed as illustrated. 

To Bone Chicken and Turkey. — If chicken, choose a large one, at least 
one year old, pick, singe and wipe with wet towel, but do not draw. If you 
Iju^^already dressed, see that it is not frozen as freezing makes it tear easily 
and also be particufar every part is whole, as little breaks in skin will spoil 
the result. Cut off legs about one and one half inches above joint, cut off 
wings between last joint and body, cut off neck close to body and take out 
the crop without breaking the skin of the neck. Now 
with a small, sharp knife make a smooth cut through 
the skin and flesh, down the line of the backbone, 
from the neck to the rump ; then begin at the neck to cut off the flesh and 
akin together from the carcass ; work with the point of the knife, holding it 




Ready for Plumping. 




Boning Knife, 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1051 

fiat against the bone, and cutting ail the flesh off" attached to the skin; first 
cut from the neck to the joint where the wing is connected with the body, 
then nnjoint that, and leave the bone of tlie wing in tlie flesh for the pres- 
ent, and continue to cut down the back and sides until the thigh joint is 
icaciied ; unjuint that, leaving the bone in the leg, and cut toward the breast- 
bone, being careful not to cut through the skin where it is stretched tight 
over tlie breast; when the flesh of one side of the bird is loosened from the 
carcass in this waj', turn it over and take off the other side. Great care 
must be taken not to cut through the carcass into the intestines, which may 
remain inclosed in it until it is entirely freed from the flesh and skin ; the 
most ditiicult i)art of the operation is cutting off the breast without breaking 
Of tearing the skin ; if this accident happens the aperture must be sewed up 
before the bird is stuffed. When tke llesh is free from the carcass, lay it 
^t^in down on tlie table, and distribute tlie flesh equally all over the skin, 
cutting the thickest portions and laying them open like the leaves of a book, 
so as to cover the skin ; cut otit the wing and thigh bones, and turn the flesh 
:ind s'' in inside, like the fingers of a glove reversed. Stuff and roll in shape 
:is direi'ted for a Turkey (xalatine and after being boiled and pressed in a 
pan or mold, remove cloth, place it in a vessel, a size larger than that in 
which it was pressed but same shape, and fill the space with aspic jelly 
pom-ed in nearly cold ; when set dip a moment in warm water, turn out and 
it is ready to be decorated. Although we have given many fillings in Poultry 
Department here is one differing somewhat. For a turkey weigliing seven 
pounds, take the meat of one chicken weighing four pounds, one pound of 
lean veal, half a pound of lean salt pork, small cup cracker crumbs, two eggs, 
one cup broth, two and a half tablespoons salt, half teaspoon pepper and 
sage, one teaspoon each summer savory, sweet marjoram, and thyme, and, 
if liked, one tablespoon capers, quart of oysters and two tablespoons onion 
juice. Have the meat uncooked and free from any tough pieces. Chop vfry 
line. Add seasoning, crackers, etc., mix thoroughly, and use. If oysters 
are used, half a pound of the veal must be omitted. 

Another method of boning a turkey to truss in original shape is as fol- 
lows ; prepare as above without drawing, cut off legs in the joints, and tips 
of wings, place on its breast and cut down the back through to the bone 
from the neck down to where there is but little flesh, where it is all skin and 
fat. Begin at neck, and run knife between flesh and bones until you come 
to wing. Then cut ligaments that hold bones together and tendons that 
liold flesh to bones. With thuml) and fore-finger, prcs-s- flesh from smooth 
bone. When you come to the joint, carefully separate ligaments and re- 
move bone. Do not try to take bone from next joint, as that is not in the 
way when carving, and it gives a more natural shape to turkey. Now begin 
at wish-bone, and when that is free from the flesh, run knife between sides 
and flesh, always using fingers to press the meat from the smooth bones, as. 
for instance, the breast-bone and lower part of the sides. Work around 
edges the same as around wings, always using great care at joints not to cut 
skin. Drawing out the leg bones turns thafpartof the bird insi<le out. Turn 
turkey over, and proceed in the same manner with the other side, When 
all is detached, carefully draw skin from breast-bone ; then run the knife 
between the fat and bone at the rump, leaving the small bone in the ex- 
treme end, as it holds the skewers. Carefully remove the flesh from the 
skeleton, and turn it right side out again. Eub into it two tablespoons salt 
and a little pepper, and fill with dressing. Sew up back and neck and then 
the vent. Truss the same as if not boned. By leaving the wings and legs 
unboned the natural form is more easily given to the turkey in trussing and 
some prefer it thus. It i-^ very nice to bone chicken or turke 1/ fjr fricassees , cur- 
ries and p >,s- ; to do this fi st cut them up in pieces, then begin with the legs ;. 



1052 CUTTING AND CURIN© MEATS. 

take the end of the large bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean 
from it'down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife care- 
fully, and when the skin is loosened frum it in every part, cut round the next 
bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is 
done. Remove the bones of the other leg in same manner ; then ta e wings 
and proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to 
pierce the skin of the second joint; the rest of the pieces are very easily 
boned after the directions given for boning an entire fowl. 

Shell Fish — The Oi/xlcr is the most used of all sliell-fish and its prepar- 
ation for cooking is so simple that it is fully given in Shell-fish Department. 
Jfur(l-!^'hell Crabs are prepared for use the same as Lobsters. Soft-shell 
Crabs are always used alive and j^jrepared for cooking as follows : Turn the 
craV) on its back, lift up the apron, or pointed flap which lies near the back 
of the shell, and either break oft' from it the tuft of fin-Uke portions atta(died 
to it, or remove it entirely ; press first one side and then the other of the 
back sliell away from the body, and take out the tough fibrous organs called 
the "deadmen" ; lay the crab on its back on the table, and with a small 
sharp knife cut out a sem.i-circle from the head, including the eyes and the 
sand bag ; then wash the crab in cold salted water, dry it on a clean towel, 
and it is ready to be cooked as wished. 

L"hsters. — When purchased alive, to remove the shell tie the claws to- 
gether and plunge head-first into boiling water, adding a gallon of latter, 
tablespoon salt and some add teacup vinegar. Boil steadily for twenty or 
thirty minutes or until the shell turns red. Too long boiling toughens it 
and destroys the fine delicate flavor of the meat, for small ones some oidy 
boil half as long. When done it is nice to let it drain face downward on a 
sieve. Take it from the boiling water, cool a little, and tlien break off claws 
and tail, remove and throw away the soft fins which lie under the legs, close 
to the l)ody of the lobster, se])arate tail from body, and shake out the tom- 
ally, and, also, the "coral," if there is any, upon a plate. Then Ijy drawing 
Itody from the shell with the thuml), and pressing the part near head against 
shell witli first and second finger, you will free it from the stomach or "lady. ' ' 
Now split the lol)ster through the center and, with a fork, pick meat from 
joints. Cut under side of tail shell open and take out meat without breaking. 
On the upper part of that end of this meat which joined the bodj' is a small 
I)iece of flesh, which should be lifted; and a strip of meat attached to it 
should be turned back to the extreme end of tail. This will uncover a little 
vein, running the entire length, which must be removed. Sometimes this 
vein is dark, and sometimes as light as the meat itself. It and the stomach 
and head are the only parts not eatable. The piece that covered the vein 
should ))e turned again into place. Hold claws on edge on a thick board, 
and strike hard witli a hammer until shell cracks. Draw apart, and take out 
meat. If you have tlie claws lying flat on the board when you stri ^e, you 
not only break the shell, but m;i^h meat, and thus spoil a fine dish. Re- 
member that tlie stomach of the lobster is found near the head, and is a 
sm ill, hard sack containing poisonous matter; and that the intestinal vein 
is fcumd in the tail. These should always ])e carefully removed. The lobster 
may then be arranged on a plate and" served, each one seasoning to suit 
himself, or it can ])e served in any way given in shell-fish or a very ap- 
petizing dish is that of Curried Lobster made of either the tresh or canned ; 
chop an apple and onion very fine, and fry in butter or good beef dripping 
until you can mash them with a spoon. Sprinkle with a teaspoon curry- 
powder, masliing fine with a wooden spoon. Have ready a half pint of white 
sauce made by bringing to a boil as much milk or cream to which a teaspoon 
of corn starch dissolved in a little cold milk has been added. Stir all 



CUTTING AND CUEING MEATS. 1053 

smoothly together until the consistency of cream ^ and add the lobster cut in 
pieces. Let it get very hot, and serve in a border of plain boiled or curried 
ii(;e. Or a Lobster Sauce is made when the solid flesh is used for salad, by 
pounding the soft part and shell together (in a mortar) very fine, and putting 
in stewpan, covering with pint boiling water; then place it over the tire to 
simmer for ten minutes and pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin ; 
put three tablespoons butter into stewpan, into which rub (cold) a good table- 
spoon flour, add liquor from lobster, place upon the fire, stirring until the 
point of boiling ; season with a little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy 
butter, the size of a walnut ; or, if any red spawn is in the lobster, mfx it with 
the butter, as in the last, and add it, with the juice of half a lemon, just be- 
fore serving. An anchovy pounded with the lobster shells would be an im- 
provement, and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce. 
To make the Anchovy Butter, you must have young anchovies. Take them 
out of the pickle and wash well. Take off the bones and head, and then pound 
them in a mortar with fresh butter, very fine ; rub this through a hair sieve. 
Put this butter when made, into a pot well covered, to use when wanted ; 
observe however, that it soon becomes rank. 

Terrapins or Water Turtles. — Put in hot, not boiling, water for from 
three to five minutes, take out, place in cold water five or ten minutes and 
remove underskin and pull off the horny parts from the feet; return to kettle 
with fresh hot water, slightly salted, and boil about an hour or till under 
shell cracks, time will depend upon size and age. Loosen shell carefully, 
some open at side, remove under shells, take out the two sand-bags, en- 
trails, and the gall, which lies above the largest lobe of the liver (be very 
careful not to break gall bag, or touch it with the knife in cutting) ; cut rest 
of terrapin in pieces, season and prepare as directed in shell-fish. 



1054 CARVING 



CARVINGS. 



It is no trifling accomplishment t.^ carve well, and both ladies and gen- 
tlemen ought to so far make carving a study that they may be able to per- 
form the task with sufficient skill at least to prevent remark. There are no 
real difficulties in the way of mastering the accomplishment ; knowledge 
simply is required. All displays of exertion are in bad taste, because they 
indicate a want of ability on the part of the carver, or a strong indication of 
the toughness of the roast or the age of the bird. A good knife of moderate 
size and great sharpness is a necessity. Fowls are easily carved, and in 
roasts such as loins, breasts, fore-quarters, etc., the butcher should always 
have instructions to separate the joints. The platter should be placed so near 
to the carver that he has full control over it ; if far off nothing can prevent 
an ungraceful appearance. In carving a turkey, place the head to the right, 
cut off the wing nearest you first, then the leg and second joint ; then slice 
the breast until a rounded, ivory-shaped piece appears ; insert the knife be- 
tween that and the bone and separate them ; this part is the nicest bit of the 
l^reast; next comes the "merry -thought." After this, turn over the bird a 
little, and just below the breast you will find the "oyster", which you can 
separate as you did the inner breast. The side bone lies beside the runi]), 
and the desired morsel can be taken out without separating the whole bone. 
Proceed in the same way upon the other side. The fork need not be re- 
moved during the whole process. An experienced carver will dissect a fowl 
as easily as you can break an egg or cut a potato. He retains his seat, man- 
a<^es his hands and elbows artistically, and is perfectly at his ease. There 
is no difiiculty in the matter ; it only requires knowledge and practice, and 
these should be taught in the family, each child taking his turn. Chickens 
and partridges are carved in the same way. The trail of a woodcock on toast 
is the choicest bit of the bird; also the thigh of a partridge. 

A fillet of veal is cut in thin, smooth slices ofi" the top, and proportions 
of the stuffing and fat are served to each. In cutting a breast of veal, separ- 
ate the T)reast and brisket, and then cut them up. 



CARVINC!. 



lo: 




Shoulder of Mutton. — Thougli commonly 
regarded as a homely joint, is by many pre- 
ferred to the leg, as there is much variety 
of flavor, as well as texture, in both the 
upper parts. The figui-e represents it laid 
in the dish as usually served, back upper- 
most. Cut through it from a down to the 
blade-bone at b. Afterwards slice along 
each side of the blade-bone from c to b. 
Shoulder of Mutton. The best part of the fat lies in the outer edge, 

and is to be cut in thin slices in the direc- 
tion of d. The under part contains many 

favorite slices, of different sorts, which may 

be cut crosswise in slices, near the shank 

bone at b or lengthwise in broad pieces at 

the large end a. If it is intended to reserve 

a part cold, the under parts should be served 

hot, as they are more palatable than when 

cold, and the upper part is kept more sightly 

tor the table. Shoulder of Mutton, under pan, 

Saddle of Mutton should be cut 
in long and rather thin slices from 
the tail to the end, beginning at 
each side close to the back-bone 
from a to b, with slices of fat from 
c to d, or along the bone which 
divides the two loins, so as to 
loosen from it the whole of the 
meat from that side which you then 
cut crosswise, thus giving with 
each slice both fat and lean. The 
tail-end is usually divided and part- 

Saddle of Mutton. ly tUmcd Up. 





Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the 
direction of 1 to 2. The most delicate fat 
lies about the part 4 and if cut in the line 
.') to 4 the two bones between which the 
marrowy fat lies, will be divided. 

Fore-quarter of Lamb. — Pass the knife 
under the shoulder in the direction of a, 
1), c, d, so as to separate it from the ribs 
without cutting the meat too much off the 
bones. Divide an orange or lemon, sprinkle 
the halves with salt or pepper and squeeze 




Knuckle of Ve«I. 




For«'quart«r of Lamb. 



the juice over the under part, take 
to table and the carver should then 
divide ribs from d toe, serving them, 
or the neck f, or the breast g, as 
may be selected. 

Haunch of Venison. — Have the 
joint lengthwise before you, tlie 
knuckle being the farther joint. Cut 
frorh a to b, but be careful not to let 



1056 



CARVING. 



out the gravy, then cut along the 
whole length from a down to d. 
The knife should slope in making 
the first cut, and then the whole 
of the gravy will be secured in the 
well. The greater part of the fat, 
which is the favorite part, will be 
found at the left side, and care 
must be taken to serve some with 
each slice. 




Haunch of VeBri; 




Leg of Pork. — A leg of pork whether 
boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Begin 
about midway, between the knuckle and 
the thick end, and cut them in deep slices 
from either side of the line 1 to 2 

Ham. — Serve it with the back upwards, 
sometimes ornamented, and generally hav- 
ing, as in France, the shank-bone covered 
i.enotPork. with cut paper. Begin at the middle by 

cutting long and very thin slices from a to f>, 

continuing down the thick fat at the broad 

end. The first slice should be wedge-shaped, 

that all the others may be cut slanting, which 

gives a handsome appearance to them. Many 

persons, however, prefer the hock at d as 

liaving more flavor; it is then carved length- 
wise from r to d. 

Fillet of Veal. — Pare off the upper part 

one slice from the whole surface half an 
inch thick, and put it aside, then cut thin 
slice of both lean and fat. The round ami 
aitch-bone is carved in the same way. In 
carving the first slice, if any one prefers 
the brown, it uTay be cut thinner and divid- 
ed, and a portion served to each person 
who likes it. 

Round or Aitch-bone of Beef. — These are 
l-iiiet of Veal. carved like a fillet of veal. The soft fat 

wnich resembles marrow, lies back of the 
aitch-bone, below c, but the firm fat should 
be cut in slender horizontal slices at a, 
and is much better than the soft when eat- 
en cold. 






Rabbits. — Put the point of the knife 
under the shoulder at b, and so cut all the 
way down to the rump, along the sides of 
the backbone, in the limb, b, a, cutting it 
ill moderately thick slices ;or, after remov- Bound or Aitch-bone of beef. 

ing the shoulders and legs, cut the back crosswise in four or five pieces! 
but this can only be done when the rabbit is very young, or when it is boned. 
To separate the" legs and shoulders, put the knife" between the leg and back 
and give it a little turn inwards at the point, which you must endeavor 
to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders may be removed by a 



CARVING. 



105< 




circular cut around them. The back is the 
most delicate part, and next to that the 
thighs. . A portion of the stuffing should be 
served with each slice. The brain and ears 
of the sucking pig and rabbit are slso con- 
sidered epicurian tid-bits, which must not 
be neglected ; therefore, when every one 
is helped, cutofl'the head, put your knife 
between the upper and lower jaw and di- 
^"■^^''f- vide them, which will enable you to lay the 

upper fiat on your plate ; then put the point of the knife into the center and 

cut the head in two. 

Wi)iged Game and Fouliry. — The carving of winged game and poultry re- 
quires more delicacy of hand and nicety in hitting the joints than the cutting 
of large pieces of meat, and, to be neatly done, requires considerable prac- 
tice. The carving knife should be smaller and lighter and the point and 
handle longer than for meats.. 

Roast Turkey. — Cut long slices from each side of the breast down to the 
ribs, beginning at a b from the wing to the breast bone. Then turn the tur- 
key upon the side nearest you, and cut off 
the leg and wing ; when the knife is passed 
between the limbs and the body, and pressed 
outward, the joint will be easily perceived. 

Then turn tlie turkey on the other side, and ,g^^«, ^^■n^^'i^l^'^^^i^^k^' - 
cut oiTtlie leg and wing. Separate the drum- ^W,^^''^''''^^^ "^«fjLr"'-i| 
sticks from the leg bones, and the pinions c^^^^^^^^^. 
from the wings ; it is hardly possible to mis- 
take the joint. Cut the stuAing in thin slices 
lengthwise. Take off the neck-l)ones, which are two triangular bones on 
each side of the breast; this is done by passing the knife from the back un- 
der the blade part of each neck-]>one, until it reaches the end ; by raising the 
knife the other branch will easily crack oft'. Separate the carcass from the 

back by passing the knife lengthwise from the 
neck downward. Turn the back upwards and 
lay the edge of the knife across the back-bone 
about midway between the legs and wings ; at 
the same moment, place the fork within the 
lower part of the turkey, and lift it up ; this 
will make the back-bone crack at the knife. 
Trie croup, or lower part of the back being cut 
off', put it on the plate with the rump from vou. 
Boiled Tnrker. ^^^^^ j^^^jj^ off tliG si<le-bones by forcing' the 

knife from the rnmp to the other end. The choicest parts of turkey are the 
8kle bones, the breast and the thigh bones. The breast and wings are called 
lightmeat; the thigh-bones and side-bones dark meat. When a person de- 
clines expressing a preference, it is polite to help to both kinds. 

Boiled Turkey is carved in the same way as the roast, the only difference 
being in the trussing ; the legs in boiled being, as here shown, drawn into the 
body, and in tlie roast skewered. 

Roast Fowl. — Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the 
bone ; then with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the 
bird is not old. Take the wing off in the direction of a to b, only dividing 
the joint with your knife. When the four quarters are thus removed, take 





1058 



CARVING. 




off the merry-thought from c, and the neck 
hones, these last, by juitting in the knife at 
d, and pressing it, will break off from the 
])art that sticks to the breast. The next 
thing is to divide the breast from the car- 
cass, ])y cutting through the tender riVjs 
close to the breast, quite down to the tail. 
Then raise the lower end of rump and it 

will separate easiiy. Turn the rump from ^"^^^ ^"^1- 

you, take off the two sidesmen, and the whole will be done. To separate 
the thigh from the drumstick of {he leg insert the knife into the joint as above. 
It requires practice to hit the joint at the first trial. The breast and wings 
are considered the best parts. If the bird be a capon, or large, and roasted, 
the breast may be cut into slices the same way as the pheasant. The differ- 
ence in the carving of boiled and roast fowls 
consists only in the breast of the latter be- 
ing always served whole, and the thigh- 
bones being generally prefered to the wing. 




Roast Goose. 



Geese. — Cut thin slices from the breast 
at a to b ; the wing is generally separated 
as in turkeys, but the leg is almost con- 
stantly reserved for broiling. Serve a lit- 
tle of the seasoning from the inside by cutting a circular slice in the apron at c. 

Pheasant, — Slip rhe knife between the leg and the breast; cut off a wing 
then slice the breast, and you will have two or three handsome cuts. Cut 
off the merry thought by passing the knife under it towards the neck, and 
cut all the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and 
mprry-Uiought are the most esteemed; but the thigh has a 
liiy-h flavor. 




Partridge. — It may be cut up in the same manner as a 
fowl ; but the bird being small, it is unusual to divide it into 
mure than three portions — the leg and wing being left to- 
gether, and the breast helped entire ; the back, being only 
served along with some other parts. If the birds are very panndBe. 

young, and the party not over large, the whole body is notunfrequently only 
separated into two pieces, by one cut of the knife from head to tail. 

Quails. — Generally helped whole. 

Grouse, Snipe and Woodcock. — Proceed as for jjartridge. As regards these 
different sorts of game, the thigh of the pheasant and woodcock is the best, 
and the breast and wing of the partridge and grouse ; but the most epicurean 
morsel of all is the trail of the woodcock served up on toast. Smaller 1)irds 
should always be helped as they are roasted, whole. 

In serving fish some practice is needful, for lightness of touch and dex- 
terity of management are necessary to prevent the flakes from breaking. In 
serving mackerel, shad, etc. , a part of the roe should be placed on each plate. 
The fins of the turbot are most sought for; the fish is placed underpart up- 
permost on the platter, as there lies the primest part. In carving salmon, a 
portion of the back and belly should be served to each person. The choicest 
morsels are next to the head, the thin part comes next, and the tail is the 
least esteemed. The flavor of the fish nearest the bone is not equal to that on 
the upper part. 



BITTKR AND (HKKSK. 10")9 



BUTTER AND CMEESE. 



No sloven can make good butter. The one thiuf/ to be kejit in mind, morn- 
ing, noon and niglit, is neatness, neatness, neatness. The milking should 
be done in the cleanest place that can be found, and the cows should be kept 
as clean as possible. Wash the teats aiid udders thoroughlTjf with plenty of 
cold water, and wipe with a cloth or towel. Never wash \Tith the hand 
moistened with milk from the cow. The least impurity taints the cream, and 
takes from the sweetness of the butter. Milk perfectly clean (as the last 
pint is twice as rich in butter as the first), and the quicker the milking is 
done the more milk is obtained. The milk-room should be clean and sweet 
its air pure, and temperature about 62 degrees. As soon as a pail is filled, 
take to the milk-room and strain the milk through a fine wire-cloth strainer, 
kept for the purpose, and not attached to the pail (the simple strainer being 
more easily kept clean.) Never alloiv milk to stand in the stable and cuol, as it 
absorbs the foul odors of the place. The pans (flat stone crocks with flaring 
sides are better than tin jiaus. In winter hot water should be poured into 
them while milking is being done, and poured out just before straining the 
milk into them) should be set on slats, rather than shelves, as it is important 
to have the milk cooled from the animal heat as soon as possible. Skim each 
(hiy, or at longest within twenty-four hours. Souring does not injure the 
(juality of the cream, but the milk should not be allowed to become watery. 
In winter always i>ut a little sour milk in bottom of cream crock at first skiin- 
ming. Do not use a perforated skimmer, but remove a little of the milk with 
the credm, as this does not injure the quality or lessen the quantity of butter, 
and gives more well-flavored buttermilk, which is a favorite and wholesome 
drink. If there is ci-eam enough each day, it should, of course, be churned, 
and this plan makes the best butter, although it takes longer to churn it. If 
not, the cream should be set aside in a cool place, covered, and stirred thor- 
ouirlily whenever more is added. It ought not to stand more than two davs, 
and must not be allowed to become bitter or flaky. The best plan is to churn 
as soon as it becomes slightly acid. Scald the churn and dash thoroughly, 
and put in the cream at a temperature of 58 degrees. The motion of the 
churn will soon bring it up to 6J degrees. When the butter comes put a quart 
or two of cold, soft water (or ice is better) into the churn to harden the but- 
ter, and make it easier to gather up. After gathering it as well as possible 



lOBO BUTTER AND CHEESE. 



with the dash, it should be removed to the table or bowl, and thoroughly 
worked with a flat wooden paddle, (never with the hand, as the insensible 
perspiration will more or less taint the butter), using an abundance of cold 
soft water to wash out the buttermilk and harden the butter. By this pro- 
cess the buttermilk is removed quickly, and there is no need of excessive 
working, which injures the grain of the butter. This is especially true of 
that wdiich is packed, as it keeps longer when well washed. If to be used 
immediately, the washing may be less thorough. Another and better plan 
is to remove the butter to a marble slab and lay on top of it a piece of ice. As 
it settles down by its own weight, work it up around the edges with a paddle, 
and the water from the melting ice will wash out and carry off the butter- 
milk. Before or during the churning, the bowl (which should neverbe used 
for anything else) in which the butter is to be salted, should be filled with 
scalding water, which should remain for ten minutes ; pour out and rub both 
bowl and paddle with hard coarse salt, which i^revents butter from sticking. 
Rinse thoroughly and fill with cold or ice-water to cool. After washing but- 
ter free from milk, remove to this bowl, having first poured out the cold 
water, and (the butter bowl and paddle should occasionally be scoured with 
sand or ashes, washed thoroughly with soap-suds, and rinsed until all sij^ell 
of soap has disappeared) work in gradually salt which has been pulverized 
by rolling, and freed from foreign substances. If wanted for use, one-half 
ounce of salt to the pound of butter is sufficient, but if wanted for packing, 
use three-fourths of an ounce or even an ounce of salt. Use only the best 
quality of dairj^ salt. After salting cover with cotton cloth soaked in brine, 
and set away ic a temperature of about 60 degrees for twelve hours. Work 
the second time just enough to get the remaining buttermilk out. This, how- 
ever, nuist be done thoroughly, as otherwise the acid of the buttermilk will 
make the butter rancid. At the end of the second working it is ready for 
use, and should be kept in a clean, sweet place, as it soon absorbs bad odors 
and becomes tainted. The air of a cellar in which are decaying vegetables 
soon ruins the sweetest butter. In packing for market (tin lined tubs are 
the neatest and best packages) soak the package for twelve hours in brine 
strong enough to float an egg, pack the butter in evenly and firmly, having 
first put in a thin layer of salt. If the tub is not filled by the first packing, 
set away until the next churning, in a cool place, with a cotton cloth M'et in 
brine spread over the butter, and place cover carefully on the tub. When 
filled lay over the butter a cotton cloth (from which the sizing has been 
washed) soaked in strong brine, nail un the tub, and set away in a clean, cool 
place until ready to sell. 

Straining Milk. — Do not strain warm milk into cold ; it causes whey. 

Vare of the Cream. — Stirring the cream in cream crock increases the quan- 
tity of butter. 

White Specks in Butter. — The cream being too sour is generally the cause 
of this, as wben the cream is warmed by churning it forms what is known as 
clabber cheese and that makes the white specks. 

Butter Rollers. — Two wooden paddles made in form of engraving are dip- 
ped into cold water, and a little pat of butter placed between them and rolled 
around until a little ball is formed, w^ith a pretty net- 
work surface. This may be piled on the butterdish, or 
served on individual butter dishes at the plates. 




Testing Butter. — The following simple test for the 
detection of spurious and genuine butter emanates from 
good authority : Place a little butter on a cotton wick 
and set li^ht to it for one or two minutes ; then blow out the flame. The odor 



BUTTER AND CHEESE. lOGl 



of the vapor is a gocd indication of its purity or adulteration. If it be mixed 
with lard, the odor is more intense than if mixed with tallow. The artilicial 
butter has less water than the natural butter. 

Creameries. — All housewives who make butter should examine immedi- 
ately the new inventions which substitute deep setting for the old-fashioned 
plan of setting in shallow pans. The new system is not only cleaner, but it 
produces as much and a better quality of butter, and does away with one-half 
of the hard work of butter making. Besides, the creameries, of which there 
are several good ones, take up but very little space, relieve the pantry shelves 
of the great number of pans required by the old way, and make a milk house 
unnecessary. They are not costly, and are great woman savers. 

Bright Butter. — In skimming cream ofT milK there should always be milK' 
enough skimmed off with the cream to give the butter, when churned, a 
bright, clean look. Butter churned from clear cream with little or no milk 
in it will usually have an oily or shiny look. This shows that the grain of 
the butter is injured, which affects the keeping qualities of the butter. 

Keeping Butter.— When in the granular state, if butter be washed free 
from extraneous matter its keeping qualities are far superior to that in which 
these elements are allowed to remain, even though in small quantities. When 
the butter is washed by a not very strong brine it is then possible for salt to 
preserve it, but if the matter remains salting will not benefit it, though con- 
cealing other flavors. When butter is washed with the brine it is possible 
to churn, salt and pack at one operation, thereby saving labor. 

What To Do With Rancid Butter. — When butter has become very rancid, 
it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the 
addition of water, and after cooling extract any water it may have retained 
then put it into jars and cover closely. The French often add to it, after it 
has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, which helps to destroy the ten- 
dency of the butter to rancidity. 

Butter in Winter. — Heat the milk as soon as strained until a light texture 
irf formed on the surface, then set as usual. The safest way to do this is 
-:ther in oven or in another vessel of boiling water. It is not necessary to let 
t!io milk stand more than forty-eight hours in following this method and the 
milk is good for many culinary purposes. If milk freezes before all cream 
has risen, skim as soon as frozen, putting frozen cream and milk in cream 
crock and then reheating the milk that is left, when more cream will rise 
Vv'hen about to churn, place your jar of cream near the fire and stir often' 
turning the jar around occasionally. Churn slowly until the butter is nearly 
ready to gather. ^ 

Granular Butter. -Writers, on butter making now insist that the best churns 
are made without a dash, butter should be churned only until granules are 
the size of a grain of wheat, then draw off buttermilk and rinse until winter 
runs off alear, then take half pint coarse salt, dissolve in two gallons water 
]>oiir on butter and let stand twenty or thirty minutes, draw off and let drain 
well then take out, weigh, spread out as much as possible and sprinkle even- 
ly over it one ounce of salt to a pound of butter. Mix well but do not work 
gently press grains together and set aside twenty-four hours. Then work out 
all the water, but if a paddle is used be careful not to let it slide over the 
butter. After the water is all out every stroke injures the grain. Scour the 
churn once a week with coarse salt. 

Keeping Butter in Warm Weather .—W orla thebutterthoroughlv to extract 
the buttermilk and pack in stone crocks to within two or three inches of 
the top ; cover with a cloth and fill up with salt ; put two or three thicknesses 



1062 BUTTEK AND CHEESE. 



of paper on top and a board over all ; dig a hole in the ground, three feet 
deep,'^ in a shady place, in which place the crocks andfill up with earth. 

Brine for Butter. — In packing for family use, work into rolls, lay in large 
."tone crocks, cover with brine strong enough to float an egg (one pint of salt 
to a gallon of water), in which a level teaspoon of saltpeter and a pound of 
white sugar to each two gallons have been added ; over it place a cotton 
cloth and a weight to keep the butter under the brine, and the paper over 
the top of crock. Or, pack in a stone jar, pressing it solid with a wooden 
pestle, cover with a cloth wet in brine, and sprinkle over it salt an inch 
thick. More sugar may be added to the brine without injury ; if butter is to 
be kept a long time it is a good rule to always make brine so strong that salt 
will lie at the bottom of the jar. Some boil and skim the brine and when 
c Id, pour it over the butter. When ready to pack the next churning, re- 
move the cloth with the salt carefully, rinsing off with water any that may 
have been scattered in uncovering it, paok V^itter as before, replace cloth 
with salt over it, and repeat until jar is filled to within two inches of the top, 
cover all with cloth, add salt to the top of crock, tie paper over the top, and 
set in a cool place. In removing for use each churning comes out by itself, 
or pack in layers as thick as you wisli for the table, put a cloth and salt be- 
tween each layer and on top. It keeps very nice and one can cut nice pieces 
for the table. 

Butter Worked Once. — The experience of one who does this is as follows : 
"I use a barrel churn, although a box churn without a paddle in it does as 
v/ell. I let the milk stand twenty-four hours, provided it does not sour; if 
it does, skim as soon as it begins to turn. If you have sour and sweet cream, 
mix and let it stand an hour or more before churning; as sour comes more 
quickly, consequently the sweet would be left in the buttermilk. I use a 
thermometer and test the cream, never churning it warmer than sixty-four 
degrees, and not colder than sixty-two ; and I granuL^te the butter, never al- 
1 owing it to gather . Sometimes the granula are as large as kernels of wheat, 
hut generally smaller. Draw off the buttermilk, then put in cold water ; 
draw off some more and add more water; let it stand a few minutes and 
draw off again ; then put in more cold water, and cover the churn up and let 
it stand ten minutes; then draw off all the water and put the salt in the 
churn ; put the cover on and churn it just a little ; let it stand one hour, turn- 
ing the churn over once in a while, say four or five times in the course of 
iiu hour ; then take it out on the butter worker, and work it only enough to 
jTot the brine out, and pack it dowm. If this plan is followed out your but- 
ler will never be streaked, and it will keep all summer or longer. 

Home-made Cheese. — To make it thus have a carpenter make a strong 
little scre^y-press, using a work bench screw which makes it very inexpen- 
sive and answers the purpose well, pressing the whey out, and leaving the 
cheese smooth and Arm as the factory made' The other implements are a 
peck measure with the bottom knocked out, and gimlet holes bored in the 
sides, with a strong cover to fit closely inside, a few yards of thin muslin 
(Hour sacks are good), and a large bowl and chopping'knife. Buy the ren- 
net of the butcher, and strain the night's milk into a tin wash boiler, then 
strain the morning's milk in with it, which will make the boiler about three- 
fourths full. Soak a piece of rennet nearly half the size of a hand in a pint 
of warm water overnight ; after warming the milk as warm as when milked 
from the cows, strain the rennet water in, stir well, and let sit half an hour, 
or till it is firm curd ; then cut in squares with a long knife or slat that will 
reach the bottom ; stir with the hand around two or three times slowdy, be- 
iuo careful.to reach the bottom, and let it set five minutes ; then cut finer 



BUTTER AND CHEESE 



1063 



and stir harder; don't hurry the whey out at first or cheese will be tough. 
Lay a thin cloth over the boiler and press down on the curd and dip all the 
whey oft' that can be got ; then stir, and dip again ; when the whey is nearly 
all out pour it in a thin cloth and hang to drip dry ; then put in a bowd and 
chop fine, adding a little salt, then put a thin cloth over the hoop, put the 
curd in, lay one end of the cloth over, and put in the press ; screw down 
lightly at first, and finally very hard ; leave in one day, then turn, and press 
two more days ; take out, grease, and rub with cayenne pepper. Keep cheese 
in a dark room up stairs, grease, and turn every day. Or have a long bench 
upon which place two new tubs, (without being painted inside,) in which 
"set" the milk. When the cheese has come, or when thick enough not to 
stick to a knife blade, cut with a long cheese knife, consisting of five blades, 
into small checks. Then, after standing until the whey will separate from 
the curd, place a thin cloth of "cheese cloth" one and a fourth yards square 
upon it; then carefully with ashort-handledtwoquart cup, care being taken 
not to bring white whey, lift the curd up gently with the hand. Let stand 
awhile and then dip again, so continuing till the curd hardens somewhat. 
Have a kettle of hot whey and pour it over, stirring it the while ; let it stand 
for a time, lift up the curd with the hand, and when another kettleful is hot, 
scald again. Be sure and not let the whey burn. Generally two and three 
kettles of whey are sufficient. The object of letting it stand between scald- 
ing is to cure it. When scalded it should be of a yellow^ color and hard 
enough to break in small kernels. Be careful to keep the curd fine after 
scalding is commenced. Let stand half an hour. Then place a "cradle" 
over tub made in the following way ; have four pieces of pine six or seven 
inches wide. Two length pieces four inches longer than the tub, and the 
end pieces enough narrower than tub to keep all the whey inside ; the side 
pieces straight on one edge and rounding on the other to set in to the tub a 
little. The end pieces straight on both sides, make into a frame and on the 
rounding side nail slats across an inch apart. Place strainer in it and dip in 
the curd. This is to let the whey run off. After stirring and crumbling, if 
still warm, dip cold whey over. When cold, dry, and fine, add salt. It is 
then ready for the hoop. Place the hoop on a square board a little larger 
than the hoop, over this a thick cloth and put in the curd, place the cover in, 
and it is then ready for the press, made with a narrow plank for lever, a 
board for fulcrum, and a large stone for weight. In the middle of the day 
turn the cheese, using a clean cloth for the afternoon. 



1064 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 



A man may eat his fill and yet be hungry. It is not the quantity but the 
propel- quality in food that satisfies. It is not only true that what is one 
man's food is another's poison; but it is also true that what is food atone 
season of the year, at one period of life, or in one climate, may be poison to 
the same individual at another season or age, or in another climate. The 
inhabitants of the tropic subsists and thrives on fruits on which the Ice- 
lander would starve ; while the blubber and oil that makes up the diet of 
the inhabitants of the frozen zones would be fatal to those who live under 
the burning sun of the equator. Even the same person requires a fruit diet 
in the tropics, and one of fats in the north region. The child requires food 
made up 'jI difl'erent elements from that which best suits the adult; and the 
diet of a laborer in the open air must differ from that of the brain-worker, 
who takes little exercise, and whose work makes heavy draughts on the 
nervous system. 

No one has mastered the art of cooking who does not know something 
of the chemical elements of foods, and the purpose they serve when taken 
into the system. It is particularly important that those who are compelled 
to practice rigid economy should know just what foods wdll best supply the 
real needs of the family, and how the most real nourishment may be had for 
their money. 

An adult takes into the system daily, through lungs and mouth, eight 
and a quarter pounds of dry food, water, and air necessary for respiration. 
The same amount is given off as waste through the pores, lungs, kidneys, and 
intestines. Life and activity consume this amount as fuel just as a lamp 
consumes oil. Every moment, every breath, every heart-beat, every thought 
burns up a certain amount of fuel-material, and if the supply is not forth- 
coming, the machinery stops and death ensues. The better the oil the more 
perfect the light ; and the more perfectly the food is adapted to its wants, the 
more vigorous the body, and the more perfect the working of its intricate 
machinery of muscle, nerve, and brain. 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 1065 



Food is first masticated and then digested. In mastication it is not only 
moistened with saliva, but acted upon chemically in preparation for t-ho 
more vigorous and thorough work of the stomach. It is a niistake to suj)- 
pose that water or any of the various drinks taken at table are a substitute 
for saliva. They not only do not prepare food for the stomach, but force it 
into the stomach unprepared, and, besides, retard digestion by delaying the 
process until the water can be absorbed into the blood. For these reasons 
drinks should precede or follow a meal. Crusts of bread and hard and firm 
food is wholesome, principally because it must be thoroughly masticated be- 
fore it can be swallowed. 

"When the food reaches the stomach it rouses into action, the gastric juice 
pours from hundreds of little points, the food is diluted and the more solv- 
ent parts dissolved, to be taken up by the thousands of little mouths which 
honeycomb the surface, and carried into the circulation to repair the waste 
of tissues. The oily portions of food, and such as do not yield to the action 
of the gastric juice, pass on and are subjected to the influence of the bile 
and pancreatic fluid, until all that is of value is absorbed, while the waste is 
rejected and passes off. 

This much of the digestive process needs to be known to make clear the 
why of certain processes in cookery. As the juices of the stomach only act 
on the surface of the food which passes into it, it is easy to see why light 
bread is more wholesome than heavy. The gastric and other juices can act 
only on the outside surface of a heavy lump of dough ; but when made into 
light and porus bread, the outer surface is not only vastly increased but 
the juices pour through thousands of avenues, and penetrate and act on eveiy 
part. If the frugal housewife knew this, would she set the heavy, soggy 
loaf of bread before her children "to save it?" Many a mother ignorantly 
gives her children a stone when it asks for bread. 

Fats of all kinds do not digest in the stomach. The gastric juice mingles 
with but does not dissolve them. It is only after they have passed on and 
become subjected to the action of the bile and pancreatic fluid that they are 
taken up and made available as carbon for lung combustion. Fats, uncom- 
bined ivitli other substances, act as emetics or cathartics and not as food. It is 
only when combined with other food that they are capable of being taken up 
by the absorbing vessels, and made to act as fuel to the system. A half 
pound of crude lard, unmixed with any other substance, would be rejected, 
but when thoroughly and skillfully mixed into a flaky crust will not derange 
the stomach, and will be assimilated and utilized. Remember that the use of 
more fat than can be perfectly blended, or any carelessness or imperfection in the 
process, is sure to produce indigestion and work mischief. 

Foods differ in the time required for digestion. Some fruits refresh in- 
stantly, the juice being at once absorbed into the circulation. Some meats 
and vegetables yield almost immediately to the action of the gastric juice, 
and pass into the circulation. Others require a long time for digestion. The 
more subtle and delicate flavors and parts of food yield first ; then the gluten 
of the flour, the curd of the milk, the fiber of the flesh, reinforce the blood 
and supply muscular waste, while, later, the oily and sugary portions are 
worked over to repair waste or furnish fuel to keep up the heat of the body. 

Food has chiefly two offices to perform ; the repair of muscular waste, 
and the supply of the body with fuel to keep its heat up to 98°.^ Each of 
these is indispensable to health and strength. The chief part of what we 
eat is used by the lungs for fuel ; the rest, except small portions of mineral 
substances, such as lime, potash, sulphur, etc., goes to the production of 
muscular and brain, force. The great secret in the preparation of food that 



1066 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 



will prolong life and maintain a liigh state of health, is to adapt it to the 
peculiar conditions of those to be fed, — age, occupation, climate, and season 
to be considered. Variety of food is nearly always at hand ; knowledge only 
is necessary to choose that best adapted to present needs. 

The heat of the body is produced by the action of the lungs, which uses 
up[the heat-producing|food, as action of muscle or brain consumes the muscle- 
making material. _ The former is non-nitrogenous ; the latter nitrogenous. 
Foods maybe divided into three groups; the nitrogenous, in which nitrogen 
is the chief element, and which feeds muscle only; the non-nitrogenous, 
chiefly carbon, which produce heat only ; and those in which both are 
united. 

It has been proved by chemical analj^sis that the body requires four to 
five ounces for heat to one for muscle, and this gives us the key to the proper 
proportion of the elements in food, varying slightly of course^ with seasons, 
climates, occupations, and conditions. 

The substance richest in nitrogen, the muscle-making element, is albu- 
men, found in its most perfect form in the white of an egg. The lean or red 
parts of beef, mutton, venison, and chicken contain nearly as great a per- 
centage, as well as grain, pease, and beans. If muscles only were to be fed, 
these would be nearly perfect foods, but for one ounce that goes to muscle, 
live ounces must go to heat, and this calls for carbon. 

The carbon needed to keep up the bodily heat comes chiefly from starch, 
which is abundant in the vegetable kingdom. Grate a potato and wash in a 
succession of waters, allowing the sediment to deposit each time, and a 
floury substance will appear, perfectly white, and dry and crispy to the 
touch. This is starch, and consists of round grains, too small to be seen by 
the eye. One-half of the bulk of dry starch is carbon; the remainder is 
oxygen and hydrogen in exactly the proportion as in water; and in that 
wonderful laboratory, the stomach, the carbon is elminated from the starch, 
and the oxygen and hydi-ogen combine to form water. 

The starch made from -wheat is seldom used as food. Sago, Tapioco, and 
arrowroot, so much used for puddings, are almost pure starch, with slight 
coloring matter taken from the material. Corn starch is less agreeable in 
flavor, and makes a less firm jelly when cooked. These desert dishes are 
easily digested, and contribute carbon, but do not feed muscle, except as they 
are combined with milk, eggs, etc., in cooking, which contain a little nitro- 
gen and a good deal of carbon. The food, then, is not adapted to a working 
man or to growing children, who need to have their muscles fed. For persons 
of sedentary habits, especially for the aged, whose feeble respiration needs 
a large supply of carbon to keep up heat, they are valual>le because easily 
digested. I'or others they are of value only "to .supplement muscle-making 
too d as adessert. 

The following table (Prof. Yoemans) gives the proportion of starch in 
common grains . 

Peu Cent Starch. j Per Cent Starch. 

Rice Flour, - - - 84 to 85 Barlev Flour, - - G7 to 70 

Indian Meal, - - - 77 to 80 Eve Flour, - - - 50 to (U 

Oat Meal, - - - 70 to 80'Buckwheat, - - 52 

Wheat Flour, - - - 39 to 77|Pease and Beans, - - 42 to 43 

Potatoes (75 per cent water) 13 to 15. 

The large variation in wheat flour is due to the process of grinding. Va- 
rieties of Avheat only vary about five per cent, but the old process of making 
fine white flour, used only the middle or starchy parts of the kernel, reject- 
ing the gluten (nitrogenous and muscle-feeding.) The whitest and highest- 
priced flour was, therefore, less nourishing, containing the largest per cent 
of starch. Modern invention has, however, reversed this, and the best "nevr 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 1067 

process" flour contains the largest proportion of gluten. The old argument 
in favor of Graham, that it contained a larger proportion of nitrogen, and 
better supplied the body with muscle-making material, no longer holds good. 
Analysis shows that the best "new process" flour and Graham are almost 
identical in these elements. The only advantage left for Graham is the action 
of the coarser particles of bran (the outer shell and indigestible) on the coat- 
ings of the stomach, which is often salutary, but sometimes injurious to the 
delicate membranes. When flour and bread made from it contains one part 
nitrogent to four of carbon, it is nearly perfect food, aud will sustain life. 

The substance which is of next importance in supplying carljon to the 
body is oil (which is chiefly carbon). The oils used for food are butter, lard, 
and the fat of beef. Other oils, used sometimes in cooking, are nearly iden- 
ticle with these. They contain about eighty per cent of carbon, butter hav- 
ing the least. In grains, oil varies, being nine per cent in corn meal, six in 
oatmeal, three and a half in rye, and one to two in wheat. Oils and starch 
serve the same purpose in the digestive process ; both are useful to supply 
carbon ; neither nourish muscle. Starch is easj- of digestion, requiring one 
hour, while butter is converted into chyme in three and one-half, mutton-fat 
in four and a half, and beef-fat in five and one-half hours. This furnishes 
the best of reasons why fats should be sparingly used, especially in warm 
and moderate weather, when a sufficient supj^ly of carbon is easily secured 
from vegetable foods. Besides, it is a well established fact that excessive 
use of fats in cooking cause an excessive secretion of bile, and this in turn, 
causes a sensation like hunger and an increase of saliva. This is mistaken 
for real hunger. More food is taken, and indigestion, and later dyspepsia 
result. An eminent authority says : "I believe it will be found the off"end- 
ing ingredient in nine-tenths of the dishes that disturb weak stomachs." 
Dyspeptics need to reject not only foods in which fats are mixed, but those 
in which they are the natural clement, such as the yolk of eggs, liver, milk, 
rich cheese, etc. Yolks contain twenty-eight per ceiitof oil, and milk over 
three per cent. One cxjndition only calls for the use of fats in daily diet : 
Long continued exposure to excessive cold. One pound of fat furnishes as 
much carbon as two and four-tenths pounds of starch, or seven and seven- 
tenths pounds lean meat. When the moisture of the breath is converted to 
ice and freezes on the beard, the air has no watery vapor and is nearly pure, 
containing a large per cent of oxygen. To meet this in the lungs requires 
abundant carbon, and oils furnish this most readily. 

The best bread for cold weather is that containing most oil . Corn breacl 
ranks first, oatmeal next, rye third and wheat last. Of course comparatively. 
feM^ are exposed to the rigors of winter in civilized life, and brief exposure 
to cold is offset by an increase of clothing, and ordinary diet furnishes a 
plentiful supply of carbon. For woodmen, soldiers, sailors, pilots, travelers, 
railroad men, and others exposed to long, cold storms, especially when they 
can not exercise freely, should eat liberally of fat beef, yolks of eggs, and 
butter. Butter is the least objectionable of fats. Fat from salt pork aud 
smoked bacon is less injurious than that from fresh pork. Beef fat is alsrt 
much more wdiolesome than lard. Above all, let the cook remember that 
oils are physic, and next to poison, if not blended with substances which 
contain large quanties of starch, such as rice, mealy potatoes, and bread made 
of fine wheat flour. An ounce of lard and a pound of flour thoroughly l)lend- 
ed in a loaf of bread is digestible, but the same amount added to corn meal 
(alreadj^ rich in oil) would be fit food only for a Greenlander. The proper 
proportion of oil in food of ordinary circumstances is illustrated in milk, 
which contains three and one-half parts of oil in one hundred. 

The next important element which supplies carbon is sugar, which is 
contained in greater or loss quantity in all vegetable substances, and largely 
(five to six and one-half per cent) in milk. Sugar contains forty per cent car- 



1068 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 

hon, the rest water. It seems to be first converted into fat, and then used 
in respiration. In moderate quantities it has no injurious effects. A part of 
sugar as ordinarily eaten passes into lactic acid, and aids digestion, but if too 
much is produced digestion is retarded. 

There are too kinds of sugars in commerce — cane and grape. The former 
is made from cane, maple saps, beets, corn-stalks, etc. ; the other from plants 
which have an acid juice. Cane sugar contains twelve parts carbon to eleven 
of water ; grape sugar twelve of carbon to fourteen of water. Sugars are 
changed by fermentation into carbonic acid and alcohol, but grape sugar is 
most liable to such fermentation — cane sugar first becoming grape sugar by 
chemical combination with water. Pure cane sugar remains perfectly dry 
and unchanged in the air, while grape sugar attracts moisture, and becomes 
mealy and damp. Cane sugar dissolves more readily in water than grape, 
and hence tastes sweeter. Two pounds of cane sugar sweeten as much as 
five of grape. These facts give a hint to housekeepers of great value. Grape 
sugar, which is worth only two-fifths as much as cane, is used largely to adul- 
terate the latter. The fine, floury "powdered" sugar is largely grape sugar, 
and is not only of much less value, but deteriorates more rapidly than pure 
cane sugar. Brown sugar, after standing for some time, absorbs water from 
the air, and becomes grape sugar. It is, therefore, the best economy to buy 
the best white granulated sugar. 

There is another element of food which does not feed muscles, vegetabla 
jelly, called pectine. This and pectine acid particularly abounds in fruits and 
berries, By the processes of ripening, the vegetable acids which are enclos- 
ed in little cells, burst out and difTuse through the mass of fruit, and manu- 
factui'e pectine or jelly. Heat produces the same effect as ripening, and 
cooking is, in fact, only a rapid process of ripening. The jelly, when com- 
bined with sugar, goes to make up a variety of delicate articles, such as 
jellies and marmalades. They are nourishing, principally on account of the 
sugar they contain, but are easily digested, cooling and delicious. It should 
be mentioned that nearly all fruits are rich in sugar, — a ripe peach containing 
as much as an equal quantity of cane juice. 

There are some other substances which appear in less quantity in foods 
which seem none the less essential to health and life. One of these is phos- 
phorus, which is the element of brain and nerves, and is wasted by mental 
activity and nervous excitement. The brain-worker demands a diet rich in 
phosphorus, and in such a form as to be easily assimilated. The food that 
best sustains a laborer in the open air is not the best for those who live among 
the excitements and exhausting demands on the brain, that are the rule in 
city life. For the latter, eggs, most kinds of fish, oysters, lobsters, crabs, 
game, cheese, and among vegetables the potato; and these foods are just 
what are craved by city people" 

Another element is sulphur, which is required in the growth of bone and 
cartilage, the hair and nails. Of this there is so much in the yolk of an egg 
that silver is blackened by contact with it. Curd of milk and cheese are also 
rich in sulphur. 

Iron is always present in healthy blood, and its absence — paleness — is an 
indication of illness. Most articles of food contain iron ; in the juice of flesh, 
in eggs, and in milk it is abundant. Lime and salt are also ingredients in all 
food, the former making bone, and the latter playing an important part in 
the creation of the digestive juices. Lime is found in all grains, particularly 
in wheat and in milk, in form of subphosphates. Bread and milk are for 
this reason an excellent diet for growing children, as they supply not only 
heat and muscle, but lime that goes to supply the growth of bone. Salt also 
exists in many articles of food. 

Men and races grow in proportion to their skill in combining heat and 
muscle-producing foods. The hardy Scotch use oatmeal largely, which is 



THE CHEMISTRY OP FOOD. 1069 

rich in nitrogen. The Irish, who endure a large amount of hard Uxbor on cheap 
fare, eat potatoes, oatmeal, cabbage, and milk, while the lime and phosphates 
are said to be derived from the "hard" water impregnated with lime. The 
English add bacon (heat-producing) to beans, rich in nitrogen, and to rice, 
which abounds in starch (carbon), and milk and eggs, which feed muscle. 
The Italian eats macaroni, which is principally starch, with cheese, rich in 
nitrogen. The use of chemistry in cooking is to teach how to supplement one 
kind of food by another which contains the essentinl elements which the first 
lacks. For instance, venison contains fifteen per cent nitrogen to fifty-two 
carbon, or as one to three and a half, while the ratio should be one to four or 
five. To make it perfect and satisfying food, we have only to supplement it 
with something rich in carbon, as wheat bread, oatmeal, potatoes, or rice. 
A farmer's dinner of salt porx and cabbage is nearly perfect for an out-door 
laborer in cold weather. The cabbage is rich in nitrogen and the pork in 
carbon. It is a proper dinner dish, because it requires four and a half houi's 
to digest, while a supper may be made on venison, which is digested in an 
hour. Beef has fifteen per cent of nitrogen, but is not so easily digested as 
venison, and is fit only for a breakfast or dinner dish. Wheat bread does 
not contain nitrogen enough for a workingman's diet, and butter eaten with 
it does not supply the lack. Some kind of lean meat is needed to make per- 
fect food. The more active the life out of dooi's the nearer can health be 
sustained on a diet of lean meat only. Beans contain, next to meats, the 
most nitrogen, and are excellent food for laborers. The cabbage ranks next, 
and afterward come oats, wheat and barley. The potato contains seventy- 
five per cent water. An analysis of the dry matter shows one-tenth of it to 
be nitrogen, so that its nutritive value is nearly equal to wheat, while its 
great productiveness recommends it particularly to densely populated coun- 
tries. A dozen large patatoes are equal to a pound of flour. The onion is 
very rich in nitrogen, — one onion being equal to three potatoes of equal size 
in nutritive value. 

Milk contains all the important elements of food ; yet adults need solid 
food. Add to milk eggs, rich in nitrogen, rice and sugar, rich in carbon, and 
you have a nutritious dish, easily digested. 

Butter-milk is a wholesome drink, particularly in summer, as the nutri- 
tive power of the milk is but little reduced by the removal of the butter, 
while the sourness, due to the formation of lactic acid, aids digestion. 

Eggs contain a great deal of carbon, and are, for that reas(m, good food 
for cold weather. They are too concentrated for exclusive diet, and should 
be eaten with coarse food, or that which is composed largely of starch. 

In making cakes, the oil of the yolks of eggs used makes the perfect 
blending of lard or butter impossible, and hence unwholesome. For this 
reason sponge cake, which contains no butter, is less objectionable. 

Breads differ but little in these elements. Corn meal contains more oil 
and less nitrogen than others, and oatmeal is richest in nitrogen. The easy 
blending of the elements, and the tough gluten of wheat, make it the most 
available grain for bread. Wheat bread alone will support life longer than 
any other food except animal flesh. The pi-oportion of nitrogen to carbon is 
one to five, which is nearly correct for a sedentary person. For active, out- 
door life more nitrogen is needed, and is best supplied by lean meats. 

The nutritive qualities of animals difi'er but little. Wild meats digest 
more easily than tame, though the time required varies with the age and 
condition of the animal. Flesh is a stimulating diet because it is force-giving 
and muscle-feeding. The animal has gathered from various sources and 
concentrated in its flesh the constituents which best meet the wants of our 
bodies in the most available form. 

Applying the knowledge of the wants of the body, and of the elements 
of food to a bill of faje, and a wholesome breakfast demands strength-giving 



1070 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 

and muscle making food. Nothing is more quickly available than beefsteak, 
and it is most digestible broiled. It is a diet for real workers. Eggs are nu- 
tritive, but less stimulating. These provide for the muscles. For heat, 
starchy food is demanded, but bulk is not desirable for breakfast after a long 
fast. Bread and cakes of wheat flour are best for the purpose, and fruits, 
raw or cooked furnish the mild vegetable acid, which aids digestion If cof- 
fee is taken at all, breakfast is the time, so that the stimulating effect may 
pass awa}' before the hour of rest comes. An infusion of genuine coffee, not 
a decoction, is not injurious in the morning to most persons, and is beneficial 
to those exposed to changes ot temperature. 

Nothing appeases the appetite sooner than the juice of flesh. The barley 
gives a color and flavor. Following soup is roast beef , which feeds the muscles, 
and after it come the puddings, which abound in carbon, to give the fuel 
necessary to keep up the animal heat. Last comes fruit to aid digestion, 
with its agreeable acids. In summer less carbon should appear on the bills 
of fare, and blanc-manges, creams, fruit puddings and pies, berri(\s, and ripe 
fruits should make up the desserts. 

In making a feast, the wise hostess would consider well what has been 
the employment of the guests. A party of fox-hunters, or wood-choppers, or 
surveyors, would require an abundance of meats, but a collection of artists 
and scholars would relish better a variety of delicacies and novelties A 
sleighing party will devour carbon, but those who have sweltered under a 
July sun long for cooling fruits and the leanest of meats. The time when 
a feast is given should decide whether food, easy or diflScult of digestion, 
should appear on a bill of fare, though such consideration for the health of 
guests is hardly to be expected of the average hostess. 

A table of relative proportions of nitrogenous to carbonaceous elements 
in food, deducted from above hints may be of aid to many and has been 
kindly given us by a physician. 

Album 
or Nitrog. Carbonaceous. 

Lean beef , 1 « 5 

Eggs 1 1.5 

Pease .• 1 2.7 

Beans 1 2.7 

Lentils 1 2.4 

Milk 1 3.6 

Fat Beef 1 5.0 

Oatmeal 1 6.1 

Wheat meal or Bread 1 7.0 

Indian meal 1 7.7 

Rye meal 1 9.8 

Potatoes 1 10.7 

Carrots 1 11.5 

Barlev meal 1 12.7 

Rice .' 1 13.0 

By tlie above table it will be seen that wheat meal is the food which 
of all single substances the most perfectly meets the requirements of the 
system, containing exactly seven parts of the carbonaceous elements to one 
of the albuminous. Beef and eggs are deficient in the carbonaceous elements. 
Potatoes and most other vegetables, and rice, are deficient in albuminous 
elements. Oatmeal has an excess of the albuminous elements. By combin- 
ing food substances which are deficient in one class of elements with those in 
which the same class is in superabundant proportion, the two classes of ele- 
ments may be furnished to the system in just the right proportion. For in- 
stance, lean beef, eggs, pease, beans, milk, or oatmeal may be used with 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. J071 



potatoes, rice or other foods deficient in albuminous elements. It is for this 
reason that the Irish or Scotch laborer by instinct combines with his potatoes, 
oatmeal porridge or buttermilk. The following gives the proper proportion 
of diflerent foods necessary to furnish the right amount of albuminous ele- 
ments. 

TABLE OF COMBINED FOODS. 
Lb.Oz. Lb. Oz. 

8 Lean beef with 4 8 Potatoes. 

1% " " 1 8 Rice. 

1>2 " " 1.8 Indian Meal. 

12 Eggs " 1 6 Rice. 

9 " " 5 2 Potatoes. 

3 pts. Milk " 1 Rice. 

2% " " " 4 4 Potatoes. 

7^2 oz Pease " 1 4 Rice. 

6 " " " 5 Potatoes. 

1 5 *' Oatmeal " 5 Rice. 

1 4 " " ♦' 1 11 Potatoes. 

14" " " 5RyeMeal. 

15 " " " 10 Indian Meal. 

The quantity of each kind of food given in the above table, when added 
to that of the food substance given in the same line in the opposite column, 
makes just the quantity necessary to sustain life well for one day. Persons 
engaged in very active labor of course need more food than others, and the 
amount may be mcreased accordingly, the same proportion being always 
preserved. 

It may be observed that it is not necessary to combine flesh with vege- 
table food in order to secure the proper proportion of the nitrogenous and 
carbonaceous elements, since there are several vegetable foods which contain 
the albuminous elements in excess, which is also the case v/ith eggs and 
milk. For example three pints of milk and one pound of rice make as per- 
fect a combination so far as the proportion of elements is concerned, as seven 
and a half ounces of lean beef and a pound and a half of rice. Seven and one- 
half ounces of pease and a pound and a quarter of rice is an equally perfect 
combination of food elements, which may also be said of one pound five 
(luni-es of oatmeal and five ounces of rice ; one and a quarter pounds of oat- 
meal and five ounces of rye meal, or fifteen ounces of oatmeal and ten ounces 
of Indian meal. 

Bread is not included in the list of combinations, because it is a perfect 
food by itself, and hence does not need to be combined with other foods, ex- 
cept iot variety. This remark applies, of course, only to wheat-meal or graham 
V)read. White or fine-flour bread is very deficient in albuminous elements. 
Another advaiatage in combining various foods is to be found in avoiding too 
great bulk in the case of vegetable foods, and too great concentration in the 
case of some animal foods. This will be readily apparent when it is observed 
how great quantities of some single food substances are necessary to supply 
the system with the proper quantity of nitrogenous elements, when eaten 
alone, as shown by the following table. 

Amount of various foods necessary to furnish tlie proper daily amount 
of nitrogenous elements. 



1072 



THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 



Ounces. 

Lean meat Jo. 6 

Eggs 21.2 

Peas 11.2 

Oatmeal 23.6 

Baker's bread 36.7 

Wheat flour, fine 27.5 

Graham flour 25.5 

Indian meal 26.8 

Rye meal 37.1 

Pounds. 



Rice . . . . 
Potatoes 



3.0 



Pounds. 

Grapes 11.0 

Apples 2.5 

Peaches 37.5 

Plums 37.5 

Cherries 7.0 

Carrots 14.2 

Turnips 15.4 

Cabbage 15.4 

Parsnips 16.9 

Pints. 

Milk 4.5 

Beer 185.0 



By reference to the preceeding table any one will be able to so combine 
various articles of food as to secure the proper amount of nutritious matter 
without overloading the digestive organs, and yet give to the food the bulk 
necessary for good digestion. Evidently, it would overtax the stomach to 
digest turnips in sufficient quantities to supply the wants of the body, while 
lean meat would afford an insufficient amount of bulk, as well as being defi- 
cient in carbonaceous matter. 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. li) t ■ 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE, 



The cellar, when properly constructed and cared for, is the most useful 
room in the house, and no dwelling is complete without one. It is econom.y 
of expense and ground space to hiiild it underground, and this plan gives 
the best cellar wherever the site of the house permits through drainage. 
The base of the foundation-wall of the house should be laid a little below 
the floor-level of the cellar, and the first layer should be of broad flag-stones, 
so placed that the edges will project a few inches beyond the outer face of 
the wall. This effectually prevents rats from undermining the cement floor, 
M'hich they often do when this precaution is neglected, digging away the dirt 
until the floor breaks and gives them access to a new depot of supplies. In 
burrowing downwards, they invariably keep close to the wall, and when they 
reach the projecting flagging, give it up and look for an easier job. To secure 
the cellar from freezing, the wall, above the level of the deepest frost, should 
be double or "hollow," the inner wall being of brick four inches thick, with 
an air-space of two inches between it and the outer wall, which should be of 
stone and twelve or fourteen inches thick. The brick wall should be stiff- 
ened by an occasional "binder" across to the stone. The hollow space may 
be filled with dry tan-bark or sawdust, or left simply filled with the confined 
air, "dead air" being the most perfect non-conductor of heat known. The 
windows, which should be opposite each other when possible, to secure a 
"draft" and more perfect ventilation, should be provided with double sash 
— one flush with the outer face of the wall, which may be removed in sum- 
mer, and the other flush with the inner face, hung on strong hinges, so that 
it may easily be swung open upward and hooked there. In winter, this 
arrangement lets in light, but with its space of confined air, keeps out the 
frost. A frame covered with wire netting should take the place of the otiter 
sash in summer, to keep otit every thing but the fresh air and light. The 
walls should be as smooth as possible on the inner side, and neatly plastered ; 
rlso the ceiling overhead. The floor should be first paved with small stones, 
then a coat of water-lime laid on, and over this a second coat, as level as a 
planed floor. There should also be double doors, one flush with each face of 
the wall ; and a wide out-door stairway, through which vegetables, coal, eb' 
may be carried, is indispensable. The depth should be about eight feel 



1074 



THE CELLAR AXD ICE-HOUSE. 



Such a cellar may ahvaj-s be clean, the air pure, and the temperature 
under complete contrul. It will consequently keep apples and pears two or 
three months longer than an ordinary cellar, prolonging the fruit season to 
"strawberry-time." If it extends under the whole house — the best plan 
when the state of the purse permits it — it may be divided into apartments, 
with brick walls between — one for vegetables, one for fruits, one for provis- 
ions, one for the laundry, and a fifth for coal and the furnace, if one is used. 
In one corner of the cellar, under the kitchen, may also be the cistern, the 
strong cellar wall serving for its outer wall. A pump from the kitchen would 
supply water there for domestic uses ; and a pipe with a stop-cock, leading 
through the wall into the cellar, would occasionally be a convenience and 
save labor. It is better, however, as a rule, to locate the cistern just out- 
side the house, passing a pipe from it through the cellar wall below the 
deepest frost level, and thence to the kitcheri. If built in the cellar, the 
LMstern should be square, with heavy walls, plastered inside with three coats 
of W'ater-lime. 

All the apartments of a cellar should be easily accessible from the outside 
door and fiom the kitchen stairway. In the vegetable apartment, the bins 
should be made of dressed lumber, and painted, and located in the center, 
with a walk around each, so that the contents may easily be examined and 




'U. 



Fruit Shelves. 

assorted. The Fruit Shelves, made of slats two 
inches wide and placed one inch apart, should 
be put up with equal care and neatness, and 
with equal regard for convenience and easy 
access. Their place should be the most airj^ 
part of the cellar ; the proper width is about 
two feet, and the distance apart about one 
foot, with the lowest shelf one foot from the 
floor. Pears will ripen nicely on the loAver 
shelves under a cover of woolen blankets. The 
support should, of course, be firm and strong. The bottom shelf should be 
of one board, on which to scatter fine fresh lime to the depth of an inch, 
changing it two or three times during the winter. A shelf, suspended firmly 
from the ceiling, and located where it will be easy of access from the kitchen, 
on which to place cakes, pies, meats, and any thing that needs to be kept 
cool and safe from cats and mice, is an absolute necessity. Its height pre- 
A'ents the articles placed on it from becoming damp, and gathering mold, as 
they sometimes do when placed on the cellar floor. In planning shelves for 
cans, crocks, casks, etc., regard should be had to economy of space by making 
the distance between the shelves correspond to the articles to stand on them, 
and it is well to so place the low'er shelf that the meat barrels, etc., may be 
placed under it. The temperature of a cellar should never be below freez- 
ing, and if it is raised above fifty by a fire, outside air should be admitted to 
lower it. The best time for ventilating the cellar is at noon, taking care in 
hot weather not to admit so much outside air as to render it warm. A sim- 
ple and excellent plan for ventilation, where the location of the kitchen 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 1075 

• 

chimney admits it, is to pass an ordinary stove-pipe through the floor upward 
beside or beliind the pipe of the kitchen stove, and tliexice by an elbow into 
the chimney. T?ae draft of' the cliimney will carry off all the impure air that 
arises in the cellar, and if too great a current is created, it may be brought 
under complete control by a valve at the floor. The most perfectly kept cel- 
lar in our experience was cared for iu the following manner ; the reasons 
being that the object of ventilation is keep cellars cool and dry, but this ob- 
ject often fails of l>eing accomplished by a common mistake, and instead the 
cellar is made both Avarm and damp. A cool place should never be ventil- 
ated unless the air admitted is cooler than the air within, or is at least as 
cool as that, or a very little warmer. The warmer the air the more moisture 
it holds in suspension. Necessarily, the cooler the air, the more this moist- 
ure is condensed and precipitated. When a cool cellar is aired on a warm 
day, the entering air being in motior>. appears cool, but as it fills the cellar 
the cooler air with which it 'becomes luixed, chills it, the moisture is con- 
densed, and dew is deposited on the cold walls, and may often be seen run- 
ning down them in streams. Then the cellar is damp and soon becomes 
moldy. To avoid this the windows should only be opened at night, and late 
— the last thing before retiring. There is no need to fear that the night air 
is unhealthful — it is as pure as the air of midday, and is really dryer. The 
cool air enters the apartment during the night* and circulates through it. 
The windows should be closed before sunrise in the morning, and kept closed 
and shaded through the day. If the air of the cellar is damp it may be 
thoroughly dried by placing in it a peck of fresh lime in an open box. A 
peck of lime will absorb about seven pounds or more than three quarts of 
water, and in this way a cellar or mill room may soon be dried, even in the 
hottest weather. 

The cellar must be frequently examined and kept perfectly sweet and 
clean. There is no reason why it'should not be as neat as the living rooms, 
and as free from cobwebs, decayed fruit and vegetables, and all other forms 
of filthiness. Whitewashing vialls in winter will aid in giving it tidiness. 

If the cellar is constructed above ground, the entire walls should be 
double, with air space between, double windows and doors being even more 
necessary than Avhen under-ground. Above all, the floor should be on a 
level with that of the kitchen, to save the woman-killing stairs. If there 
are stairs, let them be broad, firm, and placed in the light if possible. Of 
course, every cellar should have thorough drainage. In laying a tile drain, 
if in the horseshoe form, place the circular side down; the narrower the 
channel, the swifter the current and more certain to carry off sediment. 

THE STORE-ROOM. 

A clean, tidy, well-arranged store-room is one sign of a good methodical 
housekeeper. When stores are put away at hap-hazard, and taken out at 
any time and in any quantity, disortler and extravagance prevail. A store- 
room ought to be large, airy, cool, and dry. Such a room is not always to 
be had, but even if a closet has to be put up with, it may be kept clean. 
Shelves should be ranged around tlie walls, hooks fastened to the edges of 
the sh elves. The driest and coolest part of the rooms should be kept for 
jams, jellies, and pickles. All the jars should be distinctly 
labeled at the front, so that they will not all need to be 
taken down every time a particular jar is wanted. Biscuits 
or cakes should be kept in closely covered tin boxes ; lemons 
should be hung in nets. Soap should be bought in large 
g quantities, and cut up in convenient-sized pieces, so that it 
" may be dry before it is used. Coffee, when roasted, should 
be kept in small quantities ; it unroasted, it will improve 
with keeping. Stores on no account should be left in the 




1074 THE CELLAR AND TCE-HOUSE. 

left in the papers in which they were sent from the grocer's, but should be 
put into tin canisters or earthen jars closely covered, and each jar, like the 
picallilli, should be labeled. Stores should be given out regularly, either 
daily or weekly. In order to check their consumption, the housekeeper will 
do well to keep in the storeroom a memorandum book, with a pencil fastened 
to it, and in this book she should enter the date on which all stores were 
brought in or taken out. By means of these memoranda she can compare 
one week's outgo with another, and immediately discover any extravagance. 
A hammer, a few nails, a ball of string, a few sheets of foolscap and a bot- 
tle of mucilage or a book of gummed labels, a step ladder, the illustration 
given being the best kind and a pair of scissors should always be kept in the 
store-room. 




THE ICE-HOrSE. 



Ice is one of the greatest of summer luxuries, and indeed is almost a 
necessity. It is so easily put up, even in the country, aud so clieaply pro- 
tected, that there is no reason why any one who is able to own or rent a 
house inay not have it in liberal supplj-. A cheap ice-house may be made 
by partitioning off a space about twelve feet square in the wood-slied, or 
even in the barn. The roof must be tight over it, but there is no necessity 
for matched or fine lumber for the walls. They should, however, be coated 
with coal-tar inside, as the long-continued moisture puts them to a severe 
test and brings on decay. Ice should be taken from still places in running 
sti'eams, or from clear ponds. It may be cut with half an old cross-cut saw, 
but there are saws and ice-plows made for the purpose to be had in almost 
every village. In cutting ice, as soon as it is of sufficient thickness and be- 
fore much warm weather, select a still day, with the thermometer as near 
zero as maybe. Ice handles much more comfortably and easily when it is 
so cold that it immediately freezes dry, thus preventing the wet clothes and 
mittens, which are the sole cause of any suffering in handling it; and ice put 
up in sharp, cold weather, before it ha« been subjected to any thaw, will 
keep much better and be much more usaful in the hot days of summer than 
if its packing had been delayed until late winter or early spring, and then 
the ice put up half melted and wet. The best simple contrivance for remov- 
ing blocks of ice from the water is a plank with a cleat nailed across one 
en^d, which is to be slipped under the block, which slides against the cleat, 
and'may then be easily drawn out with the plank, without lifting. Cut the 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE, 



1077 




■_"1'.-." ■.!'.' . '■.i'..'.>,':2i 




ice in large blocks of equal size, pack as closely as possible in layers, leav- 
ing about foot space between the outside and the wall, 

and filling all crevices between the blocks with pounded 

ice or sawdust. Under the first layer there should be 

placed sawdust a foot thick, and arrangements should be 

made for thorough drainage, as water in contact with the 

ice will melt it rapidly. As the layers are put in place, 

pack sawdust closely between the mass of ice and the 

wall ; and when all is stored, cover with a foot, at least, 

of sawdust. In using ice, be careful to cover all crevices 

with sawdust, as the ice will melt rapidly if exposed fo 

the air. The less ventilation and the more completely 

an ice-house is kept closed, the better the ice will keep. 

The cold air which surrounds the ice, if undisturbed by jk^g^ , ^ ».^— *-^ 

currents, has little effect on it ; but if there are openings, ^^^^^.'h^u^^''^^^ 
IS currents are formed and the warm air is brought iu to re- 
place the cold. This is especially the case it the open- 
ings are low, as the cold air, being the heavier, passes 
out below most readily. For this reason great care must 
be taken to fill in fresh saw-dust between the walls and 
the mass of ice, as it settles down by its own weight, and 
the melting of the ice. There is no advantage in having 
an ice-house wholly or partly underground, if it is con- 
structed as directed above. Fine chaff, or straw cut fine, 
Ice Box. jjjj^y ^g substituted for sawdust when the latter is difficult 

to obtain. Of course, the building may be constructed separately, in which 

case the cost need not be more than twenty-five to fifty dollars. Where one 

in city or country wishes to secure ice to last a month or more a box made 

on same principle as an Ice-house is ve-" convenient. 




Keeping Fruits and Vegetables. 



To Keep Cellar Clean. — Remove all vegetables as soon as they oegin to 
decay, and ventilate well so that the walls will not become foul. Use chlo- 
ride of lime as a disinfectant freely, after taking care to make it as neat and 
clean as possible, and an ounce of carbolic acid to a gallon of whitewash will 
keep from cellars the disagreeable odor which taints milk and meat. Or, add 
copperas to ordinary whitewash until it is yellow ; the copperas is a disin- 
fectant and drives away vermin. 

To Keep Apples. — They must be carefully picked without bruising and 
are usually kept on open shelves, as described, easily accessible, so that the 
decaying ones may be removed often. They are sometimes packed in layers 
in dry sand, care being taken not to let them touch each other, with good re- 
sults ; they bear a very low temperature. "When they begin to decay, pick 
. out those which are speckled, dry or stew them up with cider and sugar, and 
fill all empty self-sealing fruit-cans, and keep the sauce for use late in the 
season. Or pack in grain, barley, etc. , so that they v/ill not touch, or if fruit 
is fine, wrap each apple in paper and pack in boxes, or glazed jars with covers. 
Or when packed right from the tree, hand pick them and put them in dry 
flour barrels, pressing them down closely and heading them up. Let them 
stand under a shed until cold weather sets in, and then remove to a dry cel- 
lar, or some place where they will not freeze. Care must be taken that none 
but perfect fruit is barreled. Another method is to sprinkle a layer of saw- 



1078 THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 

dust, not that from resinons woods, on bottom of a box, and then a laj'er of 
apples placed in so that they do not touch each other. Upon this place a 
layer of saw-dust, and so on till the box is filled. The boxes, after being 
packed in this way, place in the cellar up from the ground, where they will 
keep perfectly, retaining their freshness and flavor until brought out, or any 
grain as oats, barley, etc., may be used or paper thus used will keep them 
nicely either in box or barrel. After apples are opened it is well to look 
them over, handling them very carefnUy, once or twice a month, removiug 
all the least imperfect. 

The following wholesale way where there is plenty of material, is as fol- 
lows ; Buckwheat chaff is first spread on tlie barn floor, and on this chaff the 
apples are placed, when they are covered with chaff and straw two or three 
feet in thickness. Let remain till spriug. It would be better to make layers 
of apples and chaff or be careful to fill all the interstices well with chaff. 
The covering and bedding in chaff lias several important advantages — it ex- 
cludes cold, prevents air currents, maintains a uniform temperature, absorbs 
the moisture of decay, and prevents the decay produced by moisture 

Cranberries — will keep all winter in a keg of water, changing water twice 
a week ; or place them in tub or keg, without water, let thum freeze and 
keep them frozen. "When any are wanted to use, put them in a litt e cold 
water and cook at once. Or a safer way is to can them when purchased, 
sweetening to taste, and then if any are wished sweeter or "jellied" for com- 
pany, sugar can be added and fruit cooked longer when can is opened. 

Fruit. — Take fruit as soon after being picked as possible, see that it is 
sound and clean, pack it tightly into the jar, bottle or keg; shake it down 
well so as to completely fill the vessel, then poiir on the following solution : 
363-2 grains of salisylic acid to six ounces of white sugar and one qnaxtoi pure, 
soft, cold water. 

That fruit can be preserved for a long time in a frozen state, and even in 
a non-frozen state, so long as the temperature does not exceed 32 deg., is a 
well-known fact. But it is equally well known that articles so preserved lose 
flavor every day after they are so stored, and that when exposed afterward 
to an ordinary temperature they perish almost immediately. In placing fruit 
on ice, the main thing to observe is not to pack it in any way or to wrap it in 
anything. It should be placed on a tray or in a tin box with a lid to keep off 
drip, but each fruit should be set out singly by itself and not come in contact 
with its neighbors, and great care should be iised to prevent bruising, as that 
will greatly hasten decay wdien the fruit is taken out. It is not needful to 
bury the boxes quite in the ice ; but they may be set in it with the lid of the 
box" ab®ve the surface, so that all of the fruit can be got without troubh'. 
Peaches, nectarines, melons, pineapples, figs, and other soft fruits that do 
not keep long, succeed best preserved in this manner. 

Gathering Fruit. — The right time is just as they are beginning to fall 
from the trees. Observe when the apples and pears are rijte, and do not 
pick them always at the same regular time of the year, as is the custom with 
many. A dry season will forward the ripening of the fruit, and a wet one 
retard it, so that there will sometimes be a month's difference in the proper 
time for gathering. If this is attended to the fruit will keep well, be plump, 
and not shrivelled, as is the case with all fruit that is gathered before it is 
ripe. The mode of gathering is to give them a lift, so as to press away the 
stalk, and if ripe they readily part from the tree. Those that will not corae 
off easily should hang a little longer ; for when they come off hard they will 
not be so fit to be stored, and the violence done at the foot-stalk maj^ injure 
the bud there formed for next year's fruit. Let pears be quite dry when pull- 
ed, and in handling avoid pinching fruit, or in any way bruising it, as those 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 1079 

which are hurt not only decay themselves, but presently spread infection to 
those near them; when suspected to be damaged, let them be caretully kept 
from the others, and used tirst ; as gathered, lay them gently m shallow bask- 
ets. When possible gather in the middle of a dry day. Plums readih' part 
from the twigs when ripe ; they should not be much handled, as the bloom is 
apt to be rubbed off. Apricots are ready when the side ne^^t the sun feels a 
little soft upon gentle pressure with the finger ; they adhere firmly to the tree, 
and would over-ripen on it and become mealy. Peaches and nectarines, if 
moved upwards, and allowed to come down with a slight jerk^ will separate, 
if ready ; and they may be received into a tin funnel lined with canton flannel, 
so as to avoid touching with the fingers or bruising. A certain rule forjudging 
of the ripeness of figs is to notice wlien the small end of the fruit becomes of 
the same color as the large end. The most transjnirent grapes are the most ripe. 
All the berries in a bunch never ripen equally ; it is therefore proper to cut a- 
way the unripe or decayed berries before presenting the bunches at table. 
Autumn and winter pears are gathered, when dry, as they successively ripen. 
Immature fruit never keeps so well as that which nearly approaches maturity. 
Winter apples should be left on the trees till there be danger of frost ; they 
are then gatheied on a dry day. 

Grapes. — They must not be too ripe. Take off any imperfect grapes from 
the bunches. On the bottom of a keg put a layer of bran that has been well 
dried in an oven or in the sun. then a layer of grapes, with bran between 
the bunches, so thatthey may not be in contact. Proceed in the same way 
with alternate layers of grapes and bran, till the keg is full ; then close the 
keg so that no air can enter, or use paper, never newspapers, instead of bran 
and cover all with several folds of paper or cloth. Nail on the lid and set in 
a cool room where it will not freeze. Use small boxes so as not to disturb 
more than wanted to use in a week or so. Give each bunch plenty of room 
so they will not crowd. The grapes should be looked to several times during 
the winter. Should any mold or decay remove them and repack the good 
ones again. A warm day is considered the best time to gather if you live 
neath your own 'vine and fig tree" and some place them in a cool shadj- 
place for two or three days, then pack as above, and pasteboard boxes can be 
used. Others cut off the end smoothly from the vine and dip in melted seal- 
ing wax, go that no air can get in or juice run out, let stand a day to see if 
perfectly sealed, (if not they will shrivel up) then pack in boxes as above, 
with either bran, sawdust (dry), cotton batting or paper, with the latter 
sometimes wrapping each bunch separately ; or a barrel hpop suspended from 
the ceiling by three cords, from which grape stems are hung by means of wire 
hoqks attached to the small end, sealing the other with hot sealing-wax, each 
stem free from contact with its neighbors, is said to be the best contrivance 
for keeping grapes. The imperfect grapes must be removed, and the room 
must be free from frost, and not dry enough to wither them or too moist The 
simplest way to keep grapes is to place them in drawers holding about twenty- 
five poundf' each, piling the boxes one over another. A few 
fine clusters for special table purposes may be preserved by 
cutting the bunches late in the season, but in good condition 
and on a piece of the vine. Wax one end of the stem and 
put the other through a cork into a vial of water containing 
a layer of charcoal ; make the coi-k around the vine tight 
with beeswax ; then place the whole in a cool room with an 
even temperature. The Chinese Method consists in cutting a 
circular piece out of a ripe pumpkin or goard, making an 
aperture large enough to admit the hand. The interior is 
then completely cleaned out, the ripe grapes are placed in- 
side, and the cover replaced and pressed in firmly. The 




1080 THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 



pumpkins are kept in a cool place — and the grapes will be found to retain 
their freshness for a very long time. It is said a very careful selection must 
be made of tl;e pumpkin, the common field pumpl.in, however being well 
adapted for the purpose. The cellar is not the best place to keep grapes after 
being packed, as it is apt to be somewhat damp. 



Vegetables. 

Beets should be kept in a dark, dry place, where t'l^ temperature does 
not vary, and where neither light, warmth, nor moisture are present to in- 
vite germination or decay. A small quantity keep perfectly stored away in 
sand. Roots of all kinds maj' be kept in same way. 

Cabbages. — When the weather becomes frosty, cut them off near the head, 
and carry them, with the leaves on, to a dry cellar, break off superfluous 
leaves, and pack into a light cask or box, stems upward, and when nearly full 
cover with loose leaves ; secure the box with a lid against rats, or if one has 
the spare place a rod or pole across the vegetable room near the ceiling, se- 
cure the cabbages with the roots on them and tie them, heads downward, to 
this, or nails can De driven in the posts and the cabbages hung on them. To 
keep them in the country, take up by the roots, set closely together in rows, 
up to the head in soil, roots down as they grew ; drive in posts at the corners 
of the bed, and at intermediate points it necessary, higher on one side than 
the other; nail strips of boards on the posts and lay upon those old boards, 
doors, or if nothing else is at hand, beanpoles, and corn fodder, high enough 
so that the roof will be clear of the cabbages, and allow the air to circulate ; 
close up the sides with yard or garden offal of any kind, and the cabbages 
will keep fresh and .rreen all winter, and be accessible at all times. Exclude 
moisture but never mind the frost. 

Celery — keeps well buried in dry sand, and when keeping only for a short 
time cut off the green tops when it comes from market, and it will not wilt so 
soon. An hour before ready to use some pack in crushed ice. 

Onions — keep best when spread over the floor or on shelves. 

Parsnips and salsifj' should be left in the ground all winter, unless the 
climate is very severe, when they may be buried in a deep pit in the garden, 
and not opened till March or April. 

To keep Parsley fresh and green. — Put it in a strong boiling hot pickle of 
salt and water, and "keep for use. Hang up and dry in bunches, blossom 
downward, in a dry attic or store-room, for use in soups, stuffing, etc. 

Pease. — Shell, throw into boiling water with a little salt, boil five or six 
minutes, drain in a colander and afterwards on a cloth, until completely 
dried, and place in air-tight bottles. Some use wide-mouthed bottles, not 
quite filling them, pouring over fried mutton fat so as to cover the pease, and 
cork tightly, securing the cork with resin or sealing wax. When used, boil 
until tender, and season with butter. 

Potatoes — should be kept in a cool, dark place and examined once or twice 
a month, handling carefully. Some place them in heaps on cellar floor, or 
in bins, others in barrels with sand in bottom and on top. When old, and 
likely to sprout, put them in a basket and lower them into boiling water for 
a minute or two, let them dry and put nwayin sacks. This destroys the germ . 
and the potatoes retain their flavor until late. 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 1081 

Stveet Potatoex — keep well packed in dry forest leaves, and require a drj-, 
warm atmosphere. 

Squashes. — Keep in a dry place, as cool as possible without freezing. 

Turnips — When buried in deep earth they will keep solid until March or 
April, or prepare a bin or box large enough to hold as many as may be re- 
quired for use, put in the bottom a layer of fine earth, then a layer of turnips, 
then earth, and so on till all are in, then cover slightly with fine earth, and 
the turnips will come out as fresh as when pulled, even if not taken out un- 
til spring. 

Vegetables. — Put into a vessel of any kind, and then pour on a solution of 
one ounce of salisyUc acid to four gallons of pure, soft cold water with one 
pound of salt. All Salad fVgreiafcles, such as lettuce, celery, etc., keep best 
in a cool, dark place ; it is not necessary to keep them in water ; in fact it is 
undesirable ; afier they are well washed they should be loosely wrapped in 
a wet cloth and laid on or near the ice in a refrigerator ; if there is no ice they 
can be fairly well preserved by the following method ; in a wooden or heavy 
pasteboard box lay a large towel entirely saturated with cold water, and 
after the salad is washed wrap the towel about it to exclude the air, close 
the box, and keep it in a cool, dark place. Every night and morning wash 
the salad ; removing all decayed leaves, wash the towel in clean, cold water 
without wringing it, and again wrap the salad in it, and put it away in the 
box. In this way the most delicate salad vegetables may be kept fresh for 
several days, even in summer. 

Packing Vegetables. — For present use they should be laid awAy carefully 
in a bin with a close lid (hung on hinges) so that the light may be excluded. 
To keep them for a long time the best plan is to pull them on a dry day, cut 
off the tops and trim, ana pack them in clean barrels or boxes, in layers with 
fine clean moss, such as is found in abundance in woods, between them. 
The moss keeps them clean and sufficiently moist, preventing shriveling of 
the roots on the one hand, and absorbing any excess of dampness on the 
other. All vegetables keep best at as low a temperature as possible without 
freezing. 

Cider. — Sweet cider may be kept by adding one ounce salisylic acid to a 
barrel as soon as possible after coming fi-om the press. The yeast will settle 
in a few days ; the clear juice must be drawn off and will remain sweet for 
ten or twelve days, or if prefered can stand until it is fermented to suit the 
taste before adding the salisylic acid, and it will keep justthe same as before 
adding. 

Oitmeal. — Keep in air-tight tin boxes, in which it can often be bought, 
these boxes contain from five pounds upward, and are really the only recep- 
tacles in which it can be kept free from fermentation, mold, or animal pests ; 
the sweetness of the meal is lost by exposure to the air. 



10.^2 



THE T-Ar\r)i!V 



THE LAUNDRY 



When inviting friends to visits of a week or more, try to fix the time tor 
the visit to begin the day after the ironing is done. The girl feels a weight 
' off her mind, has the time to cook the meals better, and is a much more will- 
ing attendant upon guests. 

Do not have beefsteak for dinner on washing or ironing days — arrange to 
have something roasted in the oven, or else have cold meat. 

Do not have fried or boiled fish. The smell sticks, and the clothes will 
not be sweet ; besides the broiler and frying-pan take longer to clean. 

As for vegetables, do not have spinach, pease, string-beans, or apple- 
sauce. All these good things take time to prepare, and can be avoided as well 
as not. Have baked white and sweet potatoes, macaroni, boiled rice, pars- 
nips, sweet corn, stewed tomatoes, or any canned vegetables in winter. For 
dessert, baked apples and cream, bread-pudding, or something easily pre- 
pared. 

Washing Day. — Clothing when removed from the person, if damp, should 
be dried to prevent mildew, and articles which are to be starched should be 
mended before placing in the clothes-basket. Monday is the washing day 

with all good housekeepers. 
Tubs arranged as above are 
much nicer than separate tubs, 
as no bench is necessary, the 
wringer is placed on the divis- 
ion b and also on the end wring- 
ing out the clothes directly into 
the clothes basket, and the water 
is drawn oft" at the faucets p p. 
The old-fashioned programme 
for washing is as follows. Use good soft water if it can be had. If not, soften 
a barrel-full of well-water by pouring into it water in which half a peck or 
more of hard wood ashes have been boiled, together with the ashes them- 
selves. When enough has been added to produce the desired effect, the 
water takes on a curdled appearance, and soon settles perfectly clear. If 




■4-^-4- 




THE LAUNDRY. 



1U58 



milky, more ashes and lye must be added as before, care being taken not to 
add more than is necessary to clear the water, or it will affect the hands un- 
pleasantly. On the other hand, if too little is put in, the clothes will turn 
yellow. Gather up all clothes which are ready on Saturday night, and the 
rest as they are taken off; separate the fine from the coarse, and the less 
soiled from the dirtier. Scald all table linen and articles which have coffee, 
fruit, or other stains which would be "set" by hot suds, by pouring over 
them hot water from the tea-kettle and allowing them to stand until cool. 
Have tlie water in the tub as warm as the hand can bear, but not too hot. 
(Dirty clothes should never be put into very hot clear water, as it "sets" the 
dirt. Hot soap-suds, however, has the opposite eflfect, the water expanding 
the fiber of the fabric, while the alkali of the soap softens and removes the 
dirt.) Wash first one boiler full, taking the cleanest and finest through two 
suds, then place in a boiler of cold water, with soap enough to make a good 
suds. A handful of borax to about ten gallons of water helps to whiten the 
clothes and is used by many, especially by the Germans, who are famous 
for their snowy linen. This'saves in soap nearly half. For laces, cambrics, 
etc., an extra quantity of the powder is used, and for crinolines (requiring 
to be made stiff), a strong solution is necessary. Borax, being a neutral 
salt, does not in the slightest degree injure the texture of the linen. _ Its 
effect is to soften the hardest water. Another way to whiten clothes is to 
throw a handful of tansy into the boiler in which clothes are boiling. It 
will make the water green, but will whiten the clothes. Let them boil, with 
cover off boiler, not more than five or ten minutes, as too long boiling "yellows" 
the clothes. (Some advocate strongly no boiling.) Remove to a tub, pour 
over them cold water slightly blued, and turn all garments, pillow-slips, 
stockings, etc., wrong-side out. (If there are more to boil, take out part of 
the boiling suds, add cold water, and fill not too full ^xith clothes. Repeat 
until all are boiled. The removal of part of the suds, and filling up with 
cold water, prevents the suds from "yellowing" the clothes.) Wash vigor- 
ously in this water (this is called "sudsing"), wringing very dry in hand, or 
better with the wringer, as the clear appearance of the clothes depends 
largely on thorough wringing. Rinse in another tub of soft water, washing 
with the hands, not simply lifting them out of the water and then wringing, 
as is practiced by some, because all suds must be rinsed out to make them clear 
and white. Wring and shake out well and put into water pretty well blued, 
putting in one article after another until the first boilerful is all in. Stir up 
occasionally, as the blue sometimes settles to the bottom, and thus spots the 
clothes. (This time well-water may be used if soft water is difficult to ob- 
tain.) Wring out again and for the last time, placing the clothes which are 
to be starched in one basket, and the rest, which may be hung out im- 
mediately, in another. While the first lot of clothes is boiling, prepare the 
second, take out first, put second in boiler, and "suds" and rinse first. In 
this way the first is finished and hung out while the later lots are still under 
way. Have the starch (see receipts) ready as hot as the hand can bear, dip 
the articles and parts of articles which need to be very stiff, first "clapping" 
the starch well with the hands-, especially in shirt-bosoms, wristbands, and 
collars, and then thin the starch for other articles which require less stiffen- 
ing. When starched, hang out on the line to dry, first wiping the line with 
a cloth to remove all dirt and stains. Shake out each article until it is free 
from wrinkles, and fasten securely on the line (with the old-fashioned split 
clothes-pins), being careful to hang sheets and table-linen so that the selv- 
age edges will be even. The line should be stretched in the airiest place in 
the yard, or in winter a large attic is a better place for the purpose. (Freez- 
ing injures starch, and for that reason it is better in winter to hang clothes 
out unstarched until dry, then taking in, starching and drying indoors.) 
When dry, remove from line to clothes-basket, place clothes-pins as removed 



1084 THE LAUNDRY. 



in a basket kept for the purpose, take down and roll up the line, remove 
basket, line, and pins to the house, and put the two latter into their proper 
places. The clothesline should always be carefully put up out of the weather 
when not in use. Wipe it carefully with a clean cloth before hanging out 
clothes, and always count clothes-pins when gathering them up. Every 
housekeeper ought to provide a pair of mittens for hanging out clothes, to be 
used for this purpose and no other. Cut them from clean flannel (white 
seems the most suitable), and line them with another tiiickness of flannel, 
or make them double, if the flannel is thin. These should be kept in a clean 
place ready for this particular business, and nothing else. A good and handy 
l)lace to keep them is the clothes-pin bag. Turn all garments right side out 
shake out thoroughly and sprinkle (re-starching shirt-bosoms, wristbands, 
und collars if necessary). 

Shake out night-dresses and under-garments so as to free them from 
creases, and if they are ruffled or embroidered, dip them in thin starch, pull 
out smoothly, fold first, and then, beginning at the top of each garment, roll 
up, each by itself, in a very tight roll, and place in the basket ; fold sheets 
without sprinkling, having first snapped and stretched them, and lay on the 
rest ; over all spread the ironing blanket, and let them stand until next 
morning. 

if a machine is used in washing, it is better to soak the clothes over night 
in warm soft water, soaping collars and wristbands, and pieces most soiled. 
H.ive separate tubs for coarse and fine clothes. In soaking clothes for wash- 
ing Monday, the water should be prepared Saturday night, and all clothes 
wliich are ready thrown in, and rest added when changed. If washing 
fluids are used, the recipes M-hich follow are the best. 

Another method is to half fill tubs Saturday night with clear, soft water, 
warmed a little if convenient, but not too hot, made into a weak suds ; in one 
put the finer articles, such as muslins, cuff's, collars, and shirts ; in another 
p..t table-linen ; in another bed-linen ; in another the dish-clothes and wiping 
towels and in still another the coarsest and most soiled articles ; "always put 
tiie most soiled articles of each division at bottom of tub ; cover all well with 
water and press down. Rub no soap on spots or stains, as it will "set" them. 
Of course, articles which can not be had on Saturday night are put in the 
next day as tliey are changed. Monday morning, heat not very hot a boiler 
full of clean soft water, add to it water in which soap was dissolved Satur- 
day night by pouring hot water over it, and stir it thoroughly ; drain off the 
water in which the clothes were soaked after shaking them up and down 
vigorously in it, pressing them agamst the sides of the tub to get out all the 
water possible. Then pour over them the warm suds, and wash out as be- 
fore described, washing each class separately. If found impracticable to 
make so many divisions, separate the coarse and fine, and the least soiled 
i>:id the dirtiest. 

In the summer, clothes may be washed without any fire by soaking over- 
night in soapy soft water, rubbing out in the morning, soaping the dirty places, 
and laying them in the hot sunshine. By the time the last are spread out to 
bleach, the first may be taken up, washed out and rinsed. This, of course, 
requires a clean lawn. 

Ironing Day.— Iron day after washing beginning with the sheets (which, 
as well as the table linen, must be folded neatly and carefully, so that the 
selvage edges will exactly come together. Or, another way to fold and iron 
a sheet is to bring bottom over top, then bring back bottom edge to edge of 
middle fold, leaving top edge ; iron the upper surface, then turn the whole 
sheet over, fold the top edge back to the middle edge, and again iron upper 
surface ; this leaves the sheet folded in four thicknesses ; now bring the selv- 
age edges together and iron the upper surface, and the sheet is done), and 



THE LAUNDKY. 1085 



taking shirts next, cooling the iron when too hot on the coarse towels. In 
ironing shirts a bosom board is almost indispensable, and an ironing-board is 
a great convenience for all articles. The former is a hard board an inch 
thick, eighteen inches long, and eight wide, covered with two thicknesses of 
woolen blanket stuff, overlaid with two more of cotton cloth. The cloth is 
wrapped over the sides and ends of the board and tacked on the back side, 
leaving the face plain and smooth. The ironing-board is covered in the same 
way, but is five feet long, two feet wide at one end, and narrowed down with 
a rounded taper from full width at the middle to seven inches at the other 
end, and the corners rounded. This board may be of any well-seasoned 
wood which will not warp, and should be about one inch thick ; on this all 
the clothes are conveniently ironed. Always use cotton holdersfor the irons. 
AVoolen ones are hot to the hand, and if scorched, as they often are, the 
smell is disagreeable. In ironing a shirt or a dress, turn the sleeves on the 
wrong side, and leave them until the rest is done, and then turn and iron 
them. In this way the bosoms are less likely to become rumpled. Pull 
muslin and lace out carefully, iron it over once, and then pull into shape, 
pick out the embroidery and prcjceed with greater care than before. Em- 
broideries should be ironed on the wrong side over flannel. Always have 
near a dish of clean cold water, so that any spot which has been imperfectly 
ironed may be easily wet with a soft sponge or piece of linen, and ironed 
over again, or any sur])lus bit of starch removed. As fast as articles are fin- 
ished, they .should be hung on the clothes-dryer until thoroughly dry, especial 
care being taken with those which are starched stiff, as they retain the 
starch much better if dried quickly. Thorough airing is necessary, twenty- 
four hours being none too much. 



, Laun-dry Dots. 

Bluing. — Use the best indigo tied in a strong bag made of drilling. 

Flat Irons from Scorching. — Wipe them on a cloth wet with kerosene. 

Gray and Brown Linens. — Wash in cold water, with a little black pepper 
in it, and they will not fade. ^ 

To Clean Alpaca — Sponge with strained coffee. Iron on the wrong side, 
having black cambric under the goods. 

To Cleanse Articles made of White Zephyr. — Rub in flour of magnesia, 
changing often. Shake off flour and hang in the open air a short time. 

To Clean Irons. — Sprinkle a little water on the stove when cold, set the 
irons on the wet part, let them stand fifteen or twenty minutes, then scrape 
and rub with a rag. 

Ribbed Polisher. — The ribbed polisher, for polishing shirt bosoms, collars, 
cuffs, etc., is said to surpass the smooth-faced irons in the ease with which 
it gives the fine and much desired gloss to laundry linen. 

Take out Machine Oil. — Rub with a little lard or butter and wash in 
warm water and soap, or, simply rub first with a little soap and wash out in 
cold water. 

To Stiffen Linen Cuffs and Collars. — Adda small piece of white wax and 
one teaspoon brandy to a pint of fine starch. In ironing, if the iron sticks, 
soap the bottom of it. 



1086 THE LAUNUKY. 




In Washing Children's Stockings, wooden stocking 
forms are a great help on which to drj- them. Obtain 
them at the furnishing store, or have them made without 
much expense. 

To Clean Wash Boilers. — Wash, when a little rusty, 
with sweet milk ; or grease with lard. A better plan is to 

Erevent rust by thoroughly drying boiler, as well as tubs, 
efore putting away for the week. 

To Take out Paint. — Equal parts of ammonia ana spir- 
its of turpentine. Saturate the spot two or three times 
and then wash out in soap-suds. 

To Restore Velvet. — AVhen velvet gets crushed from pressure, hold the 
parts over a basin of hot water, with the lining of the dress next the water. 
The pile will soon rise and assume its original beauty. 

Paint on Clothing. — Remove by using equal parts of turpentine and spir- 
its of ammonia. Saturate the spot with the liquid two or three times until 
the paint is soft and then wash out with soap. 

Spots. — In cloth or calico, produced by an acid, may be removed by 
touching the spot with spirits of hartshorn. Spots produced by an alkali 
may be removed by moistening them with vinegar or tartaric acid. 

To Prevent Blue from Fading. — To prevent blue from fading, put an 
ounce of sugar of lead into a pail of water, soak the material in the solution 
for two hours, and let dry before being washed and ironed; good for all 
shades of blue. 

To take out Mildew. — Wet the cloth and rub on soap and chalk, mixed 
together, and lay in the sun ; or lay the cloth in buttermilk for a short time, 
take out and place in the hot sun; or put lemon juice on, and treat in the 
same way. 

For Wastimg Red Table Linen, use tepid water, with a little jiowdered 
borax, which serves to set the color ; wash the linen separately and quickly, 
using very little soap, rinse in tepid water, containing a little boiled starch ; 
hang to dry in the shade, and iron when almost dry. 

To Clean Alpaca. — Put goods in a boiler half full of cold rain-water, and 
let boil three minutes. Have ready a pail of indigo-water (very dark with 
indigo), place goods in it, after wringing out of boiling w^+er, let remain one 
half an hour, then wring out and iron while damp. 

How to Clean Velcet. — Invert a hut flat-iron, place over it a single thick- 
ness of wet cotton cloth, laj' on this the A'elvet, wrong side next the wet 
cloth, rub gently with a dry cloth until the \A\o is well raised ; take off the 
iron, lay on a table, and brush it with a soft brush or cloth. 

To take Grease out of Silks, Woolens, Paper, Floors, Etc. — Grate thick 
over the spot French (or common will do) chalk, cover with brown paper, 
set on it a hot flat-iron, and let it remain until cool ; repeat if necessary. The 
iron must not be so hot as to burn paper or cloth. 

Substitute for Washing-Soda — A German scientific journal recouimenilg 
laundresses to use hyi^osulphite of soda in place of common washing-soda. 
It does not attack the fabric in any way, and at tlie same time exerts some 
bleaching actions which greatly improve the appearance of linen and calicoes. 



/ 



THE LAUNDRY. 



108< 




Flat Iron. — The cut represents a very good form of 
flat iron. The peculiar form of the handle makes it con- 
venient and easj' to the hand, while the width of the 
guard wards ofl' the heat more than in the common form. 

Silver Polish for Shirts, — One ounce each of isin- 
glass and borax, one teaspoon white glue, two teaspoons 
white of an egg. Cook well in two quarts fine starch. 
Starch in this and dry. Before ironing, apply some of it 
to the bosom and cuffs with a cloth till well dampened. 
Iron at once with a hot glossing iron. 

To Wash Chamois-Skin. — Use a week solution of soda and warm water ; 
rub plenty of soft soap into the leather ; let it lie in the water two or three 
hours ; then rub it clean. Rinse well in a weak solution of soda, warm water 
and yellow soap ; (rinsing in water only would make it stiff and hard) ; wring 
in a rough towel ; dry quickly ; then pull about and brush it well. It will be 
soft and new. 

To Preserve Colors in Washing. — Black calicoes should be washed in 
water in which potatoes have been boiled, and should not starched. A little 
vinegar in the water of pink, red and green calicoes is good to brighten the 
colors ; rinsing black, blue and green colors in salt, and water will also set 
the colors. Wash worsteds in water with beef's gall and they will not fade ; 
no soap is necessary, but if used, wash in the gall first. 

Milk as a Washing Agent. — A good way to wash black calico and lawn 
dresses is this : First wash thoroughly in sweet milk, using no soap or any- 
thing else ; then rinse in sweet milk, in which considerable bluing has been 
dissolved. Turn wrong side out, and hang up to dry in a shady place in 
summer and indoors in winter. No starch is needed. " Dampen aiid iron on 
the wrong side. 

Wash Bench. — Nokitchen is complete without a long bench, two and a 
half feet wide, and of a proper height for comfort in washing, on which there 
is room for two or three tubs on washing days. Of course, a wringer is a 
necessity, and it is always best to get a good one. A cheap wringer soon be- 
comes worthless. The rollers twist off, and it goes to pieces generally, 
while a good one, properly taken care of, lasts a long time. Washing ma- 
chines are more doubtful, but there are a few worthy of a place in the kitchen, 
especially where the women folks are not strong. 

Polishing Iron. — The beautiful polish that is seen on 
new shirts and collars or on those washed and ironed at 
laundries, is due chiefly to hard work and a good polish- 
ing iron. The recipes given for polish will not produce 
the efl"ect without the hard rubbing witli a proper iron. 
A good form is represented in the cut. No housekeeper 
who wants her husband's linen to do her honor can af- 
ford to be without one in some form, as the cost is 
trifling. 

Washing Feathers. — First put them into hot suds, let stand until cooi 
enough for the hands. Wash out and put through the wringer (bunching 
them up). Then rinse them in warm water, wring out and put into flour 
sacks. They are very nice, white, light, and clean. 

Bosom Board. — A board twenty inches long, and ten or twelve inches 
wide. The shirt is slipped over it and buttoned at the neck ; the other end 
of the board is a strip about an inch wide, fasfenod to the board by an arm 




Polishing Iron, 



1088 



THE LAUNDRY, 



at each end, running along the sides of the board. This strip is pushed 
down, one "flap" of the shirt drawn through between it and the end of the 
board, and then it is raised up so that its surface is again on a level with the 
board. It thus holds the shirt firmly in position while it is being ironed and 
polished. 

Washing Flannels. — Before washing flannels shake out dust and dirt, and 
lint ; use soft, clean, cold water, in winter merely taking the chill off. Let 
the hard soap lie in water, but do not apply it to the clothes. Wash the 
white pieces first, throw articles as fast as washed into blued cold water, let 
them stand twenty or thirty minutes, wash thein through this water after 
dissolving a little soap in it, wring hard, shake, and hang up. Wash colored 
flannels in the same way (but not in water used for white, or they will gather 
the lint), and rinse in several waters if inclined to '"run." When very dirty, 
all flannels should soak longer, and a little borax well dissolved should be 
added to the water, but the great secret of success is to "wash quickly, rinse 
quickly and dry quickly." 

Ironing Board. — A very handy board for ironing 
dresses, shirts and in fact garments of all descriptions, 
can be made by any one who can handle a saw, plane 
and square. The illustration shows how the board is 
notched near the ends to allow of the tips of the chairs 
passing through. Place the clothes' basket on one of 
the chairs. 

Extract of- Soa p. ^-The full title of wnicn is "con- 
centrated extract of soap." To those unacquainted with 
its properties, price, and form, we may add that it is a 
powder, is sold in convenient V4R) packages, and should 
DC kept in a dry place. For house cleaning it has no 
equal as yet, and for washing all kinds of clothes it is ironing i.uwd. 

suitable and available. It has another, and by no means trivial merit, it 
is cheap. 

To Clean Black Lace. — Take the lace and wipe ofi'all the dust carefuiiy, 
with a cambric handkerchief. Tlien pin it out on a board, inserting a pin to 
each projecting point of the lace. Spot it all over with table-beer, and do not 
remove the pins until it is perfectly dry. It will look quite fresh and new. 

To Make Soap to do away with Rubbing. — Dissolve five bars of soap in four 
gallons soft water, one and three-fourths pounds sal-soda, and three-fourths 
pound borax ; stir while cooling. Use one cupful to make suds to soak clothes 
in ; wring out and put into boiler ; use same quantity of soap for boiling them. 

Enamel for Shirt Bosoms. — Melt together with a gentle heat, one ounce 
"white wax and two ounces spermaceti ; prepare in the usual way a sufficient 
quantity of starch fur a dozen bosoms, put into it a piece of this enamel the 
size of a hazel-nut, and in proportion for a large number. This will give 
clothes a beautiful polish. 

To Remove the Color from Buff Calico. — If some kinds of buff calico are 
dipped in strong soda water, the color will be removed and the figures of 
other colors remain on a. white ground. This is valuable sometimes, as buff 
calico spots easily. If pink calico be dipped in vinegar and water after rins- 
ing, the color will be brighter. 

To Remove the Stains of Nitrate of Silver — from the flesh, or white goods of 
any kind, dissolve iodine in alcohol, and apply to the stain ; then take a piece 




THE LAUNDRY. 1089 



of cyanide potaRsium, size of a hickory-nut, wet in water, rub on the spot, 
and the stain will immediately disappear ; then wash the goods or hands in 
cold water. 

Mother's Hard-times Soap.— Take all the bits of soap that are too small 
to be longer used, shave down, and let soak in soft water enough to cover 
them over night ; in the morning add more soft soap, and boil until thoroughly 
inelted and of the consistency of tafi'y ; pour into moulds, and you liave a 
nice cake of soap. 

Coffee Starch. — Make a paste of two table-spoons best starch and cold 
water; when smooth stir in a pint of perfectly clear coffee (made by pourin^^ 
boiling water on the grounds left from breakfast and straining) boiling hot*^ 
boil five or ten minutes, stir with a spermaceti or wax candle, strain, and use 
for all dark calicoes, percales, and muslins. 

To Remove Iron-Rust. — While rinsing clothes, take such as have spots of 
rust, wring out, dip a wet finger in oxalic acid, and rub on the spot, then dip 
in salt and rub on, and hold on a warm flatiron, or on the tin or copper tea- 
kettle if it have hot water in it, and the spot will immediately disappear • 
rinse again, rubbing the place a little with the hands. ' 

Erasive Fluid.— tor the remcval of spots on furniture, cloth, silks, and 
other fabrics, when the color is not drawn, without injury. One ounce castile 
soap, four of aqua ammonia, one of glycerine, and one of spirits of wine ; dis- 
solve the soap in two quarts soft water, add the other ingredients, apply'with 
a soft sponge, and rub out. 

To Clean White Satin and Flowered Silks.— Mix sifted stale bread crumbs 
with powder blue, and rub it thoroughly all over, then shake it well and 
dust it well with clean, soft cloths. Afterwards where there are any gold or 
silver flowers, take a piece of crimson ingrain velvet, and rub the flowers 
with it, which will restore them to their original luster. 

For Washing (Joods that Fade, use crude ammonia instead of soap. Soiled 
neckties may be made to look like new by taking one-half a teaspoon of spirits 
of hartshorn to a tea-cup of water; wash well, and, if very much soiled, put 
through a second water, with less ammonia in. Lay it on a clean, white 
cloth, and gently wipe with another until dry. 

To Clean Silk and Woolen Dress Goods. — Any silk or woolen goods may be 
washed in gasoline, rubbing as if in water, without injury. The dirt is quick- 
ly and easily removed, but no change takes place in the color of the fabric. 
Great care must be taken not to use the gasoline near a stove or light, as there is 
a gas arising from it which is very inflammable, and might take fire from a 
lamp set a foot or two distant. 

To Wash Cashmere. — Make a strong tea from soap bark and soft water 
and add to water in which dress is to be washed till it is "soapy" ; then wash 
rinse well and let dry, being careful to iron it when it is yet slightly damp! 
Iron on the wrong side. Soap bark tea is nice for all woolens. For a com- 
mon dress the bark can be put right in the water in which you wash it, but 
it is not so nice. 

In Washing the Dish- Wipers, do not boil them with the fine white dresses, 
shirts, table-cloths, sheets, pillow-cases, napkins or fine towels, but be as 
particular to have the suds nice and clean. It is better to remove a part of 
the suds, and add clean cold water, so that the M'ipers will not become yellow 
by boiling in too strong a suds. On each wash-day wash thoroughly all that 
have been used the previous week. 



1090 THE LAUNDRY. 



Silk atnl Thread Gloves are best Washed by placing them on the hands, 
and washhig m borax water or white castile soap-suds, the same as if wash- 
ing the hands ; rinse under a stream of water, and dry with a towel ; keep tlie 
gloves on until they are about half dried, take off carefully, and fold them uj) 
so that they will look as nearly like what they were w^hen new as possible, 
and lay between towels under a weight. 

To Clean Ribbons. — Dissolve white soap in bi)iling water; when cool 
enough to bear the hand, pass the ribbons through it, rubbing gently so as 
not to injure the texture ; rinse through lukewarm water, and pin on a board 
to dry. If the colors are bright yellow, maroon, crimson, or scarlet, add a 
few drops of oil of vitriol to the rinse-water ; if the color is bright scarlet, add 
to the rinse-water a few drops of muriate of tin. 

Brown Linen — May be kept looking new until worn out if always washed 
in starch-water and hay tea. Make flour starch in the ordinary way. For 
one dress put on the stove a common sized milk pan full of timothy hay, pour 
on water, cover, and boil until the water is of a dark green color, then turn 
into the starch, let the goods soak in it a few minutes, and wash without soap ; 
the starch will clean the fabric and no rinsing is necessary. 

To Wash Colored Muslin. — "Wash in warm, not hot, suds, made with soft 
water and best white soap, if it is to be had. Do not soak them, and wash 
only one thing at a time. Change the suds as soon as it looks dingy, and put 
the garments at once into fresh suds. Rinse first in clear water, then in 
slightly blued. Squeeze quite dry, but don't wring the dress. Hang in a shady 
place where the sunshine will not strike it, as that fades all colors. 

To Wash Thread Lace. — Cover a bottle with white flannel, baste the lace 
carefully on the flannel, and rub witli white soap ; place the bottle in a jar 
filled with warm suds, let remain two or three days, changing the water sev- 
eral times, and boil with the finest white clothes on washing day; when 
cooled a little, rinse several times in plenty of cold water, wrap a soft, dry 
towel around it, and place it in the sun ; when dry, unwind, but do not starch. 

Black Print or Percale Dresses, that have figures of white in them, may be 
washed nicely by putting them in the "boiling suds," after the otiier clothes 
have all been removed, and boiling for ten minutes ; cool the suds, rub out 
quickly, rinse in lukewarm water, then in verj'- blue cold water, and starch 
in coff'ee starch. After the dress is dried, it is to be dipped into cold water, 
passed through the wringer, rolled in a coarse towel or sheet and left for a 
couple of hours, then ironed on the wrong side. 

A Polishing Lron. — Many housewives wonder why they cannot give to 
shirt collars, Tiosoms and cuffs, the fine glossy surface that the laundress 
puts on. This polish is due not so much to any prepara- 
tion of the starch, as vigorous rubbing with an iron made 
for the purpose and shaped like the one in the cut. It is 
somewhat like a common flat-iron, but has no sharp cor- 
ners or edges, and has a brightly polished steel face. Af- 
ter the bosom or collar has been starched and ironed a 
da. up cloth is passed over them and then the polisher is 
applied, bearing on hard and rubbing the surface rapidly. 

A Washing Fluid.^~The washing fluid made by the'fol- 
^,—^-—^^ lowing rule is invalual)le in cleaning woolen goods, in 
Poll h n IroQ.- washing woolen tidies, or worsted goods of any kind : 
One-half bar of Babbitt's or Bell's soap, one ounce saltpetre, one ounce bo- 
rax, four quarts soft water. Dissolve all together over a lire ; when half cold. 




THE LAUNDIIY. 1001 



add five ounces spirits of ammonia. The compound may be bottled and is 
good for an indefinite length of time. It is used just as you would use soft 
soap. 

To "Do Up" Black Silk. — Boil an old kid glove (cut up in shreds) in a 
pint of water till the water is reduced to a half pint ; then sponge the silk with 
it ; fold it down tight, and ten minutes after, iron it on the wrong side while 
wet. The silk will retain its softness and luster, and at the same time, have 
the "body" of new silk. 

Or rip up and brush thoroughly, then sponge in ammonia water, and pin 
out perfectly straight, each width or piece where the sun will shine on it, 
and let dry. 

Pocket for Clothes-pins. — A great convenience is the apron pocket for 
clothes pins. It takes nearly one yard to make it, the apron or pouch being 
fifteen inches in length, and nearly as wide. Round the corners at the bot- 
tom. At the top, on each side of the front, two inches from the middle, cut 
out a strip nine inches long, and one and one-half inches wide for pockets. 
Bind them with lighter colored fabric than the apron, that they may be 
readily seen. Gather into a band and button at the back, or put on strings 
and tie. 

How to Wash Blankets. — All that is necessary is abundance of soft water, 
and soap without resin in it. Resin hardens the fibers of wool, and should 
never be used in washing any kind of flannel goods. Blankets treated as a- 
bove will always come out clean and soft. A little blueing maj^ be used in 
washing white blankets. They should be shaken and snapped until almost 
dry ; it will require two persons to handle them. Woolen shawls, and all 
woolen articles, especially men's wear, are much improved by being pressed 
with a hot iron under damp muslin. 

Gall Soap. — For washing woolens, silks, or fine prints liable to fade : 
One pint beef's gall, two pounds common bar soap cut fine. One quart boiling 
soft water ; boil slowly, stirring occasionally until well mixed; pour into a 
flat vessel, and when cold cut into pieces to dry ; or a more simple way of 
using gall, is to get a pint bottle filled with fresh beef's gall at the butchers, 
cork tightly, add to the water when washing any material that is liable to 
fade ; using more if articles are very liable to fade, and less if the liability is 
not great. When the bottle is empty or grows stale, get fresh. 

Silk Underwear. — Make a suds of castile soap and let them soak an hour 
or two, then add warm water till the whole is luke-warm and wash and rinse 
in same temperature of water. When dry do not sprinkle, but iron by plac- 
ing over them a muslin cloth wet in water and over that a dry cloth. It is well 
to keep cloths just for this puri^ose. 

Buckeye Cleaning Mi.rture. — One fourth cake Ivory soap dissolved in one 
quart rain water, one ounce each soda, borax and ether. Dissolve soap in 
water and add the salsoda and borax ; then when dissolved add gallon rain 
water, after taking ofi' stove put in ether. Use with scrub-brush for carpets, 
etc., and with sponge for fabrics, sponging oflf with clean water afterward. 

To Wash Delicate Colored Muslins. — Boil wheat bran (about two quarts to 
a dress) in soft water half an hour, let it cool, strain the liquor, and use it 
instead of soap-suds ; it removes dirt like soap, keeps the color, and the 
clothes only need rinsing in one water, and even starching is unnecessary. 
•?uds and rinsewater for colored articles should be used as cold as possible. 
Another way is to make thick corn meal mush, well salted, and use instead 
A soap ; rinse in one or two waters, and do not starch. 



1092 THE LAUNDRY. 



To Wash a Silk Dress. — To wash a silk dress with gall soap, rip apart and 
shake off the dust ; have ready two tubs warm soft water, make a suds of the 
soap in one tub, and use the other for rinsing ; wash the silk, one piece at a 
time, in the suds, wring gently, rinse, again wring, shake out, and iron with 
a hot iron on what you intend to be the wrong side. Thus proceed with each 
piece, and when about half done, throw out the suds and make auds of the 
rinsing water, using fresh water for rinsing. 

To Take Out Scorch. — If a shirt-bosom, or any other article has been 
scorched in ironing, lay it where bright sunshine will fall directly on it. Peel 
and slice two onions, extract the juice by pounding and squeezing ; or cut up 
half an ounce of fine white soap, and add to the juice ; two ounces of fuller's 
earth and half pint of vinegar. Boil all together. When cool spread over 
the scorched linen, and let dry on ; then wash and boil out the linen, and the 
spots will disappear unless burned so badly as to break the threads. 

Fruit Stains. — Colored cottons or woolens stained with wine or fruit 
should be wet in alcohol and ammonia, then sponged off gently (not rubbed) 
with alcohol ; after that if the material will warrant it, washed in tepid soap- 
suds. Where white are used the stains may be easily removed by using 
boiling water before the stains are soaped or wetted ; pour it on until they 
mostly disappear, and then let goods stand in it covered till cold. Peaches, 
some kinds of pears, and sweet apples make the worst stains ; and if boiling 
water is not sufficient, a little javelle water may be used and, if skillfully 
managed, will not need to be used often. Silks may be wet with this prep- 
aration when injured by these stains. 

The Use of Turpentine in Washing. — Turpentine should never be used 
when washing is done with the hands, as it is very injurious to the health ; 
but when the clothes are pounded in a barrel in the old fashioned way, or 
when the rubbing is done by a washing-machine, a tablespoon of turpentine 
added toa pint of soft soap, taking enough of the mixture to make a good 
suds for each lot of clothes aids in removing the dirt. Care must be taken 
not to handle the turpentine with the hands, or to breathe the fumes of it, 
as it is very injurious to some persons, and great care should be taken to 
rinse the clothes very thoroughly, or the clothing may retain enough of the 
turpentine to be injurious, when worn next the skin. 

To Wash Flannels in Tepid Water. — The usefulness of liquid ammonia 
is not as universally known among housewives as it deserves to be. If you 
add some of it to a soap-suds made of a mild soap, it will prevent the flannel 
from becoming yellow or shrinking. It is the potash and soda contained in 
sharp soap which tends to color animal fibres yellow ; the shrinking may also 
be partially due to this agency, but above all to the exposure of the flannel 
while wet to the extremes of low or high temperatures. Dipping it in boil- 
ing water or leaving it out in the rain will also cause it to shrink and become 
hard. To preserve their softness, flannels should be washed in tepid suds, 
rinsed in tepid water, and dried rapidly at a moderate heat. 

To Wash Lace Ruchings. — Wash with the hands in warm suds (if much 
soiled, soak in warm water two or three hours), rinse thoroughly, and starch 
in thick starch, dry outdoors if the day be clear; if not, place between dry 
cloth, roll tightly and put away till dry; then, with the fingers, open eacn. 
row and pull out smoothly (have a cup of clear water in which to dip the 
fingers or dampen the lace) ; then pull out straight the outer edge of each 
with the thumb and finger, and draw the binding over the point or side with 
a hot iron. If the ruche is single or only two rows, it can be ironed after be- 
ing smoothed (the first process). Blonde or net that has become yellow can 
be bleached by hanging in the sun or laying out overnight in the dew. 



THE LAUNDRY. 10( 



To Make Fine Starch. — Wet the starch smooth in a little cold water, in 
a large pan, pour in a quart boiling water to two or three tablespoons starch, 
stirring rapidly all the while ; place on stove, stir until it boils, and then oc- 
casionally. Boil from five to fifteen minutes, or until the starch is perfectly 
clear. Some add a little salt, or butter or pure lard, or stir with a sperna 
candle ; others add a teaspoon kerosene to one quart starch ; this prevents 
the stickiness sometimes so annoying in ironing. Either of the above in- 
gredients is an improvement to flour starch. Many, just before using starch 
add a little blueing. Cold starch is made from starch dissolved in cold water, 
being careful not to have it too thick ; since it rots the clothes, it is not ad- 
visable to use it — the same is true of potato starch. 

For Washing the Lighter Woolen Fabrics that enter into the composition 
of summer dresses, borax is one of the most useful articles for softening the 
water and cleansing the material. This is used in the proportion of a taljle- 
spoon to a gallon of water, and, if dissolved in hot water, it makes a better 
lather. Of course, no thoughtful person will attempt to wash a woolen 
dress without first havingripped it apart, picked out all the threads, brushed 
the dustout, and marked the particularly soiled places by running a thread 
around them. Wash one piece at a time, roll up and squeeze, or pass through 
a wringer instead of twisting through the hands. Wash in several changes 
of borax water, and rinse in clear water, in which a well-beaten egg has 
been mixed ; shake thoroughly, and fold in sheets until evenly damp all 
through, then iron the wrong side with an iron hot enough to smooth nicely 
without scorching. 

Wash Silk Handkerchiefs by laying them on a smooth board, and rub- 
bing with the palm of the hand. Use either borax or white castile soap to 
make the suds ; rinse in clear water, shake till nearly dry, fold evenly, lay 
between boards, and put a weight on them. No ironing is required. Silk 
hose and ribbons may be treated in the same way ; if there are colors that 
run, put as much sugar of lead as will lie on a quarter dollar, into a half gal- 
lon of water, and soak the goods half an hour, stirring frequently, then wash 
as above, and rinse in several clear waters, using sugar of lead in the last. 
Or wash in cold rain water with a little curd soap ; then rinse them in rain- 
water — cold — slightly colored with stone blue ; wring well and stretch them 
out on a mattress, tacking them out tightly. They will look good as new if 
carefully washed. 

To Wash Black Lace. — Have a smooth, clear, round bottle ; one with a 
good deal of body and not much neck, is preferable to any other. Dip 
lace into a little ale, and after pressing out the moisture a little, wind it 
smoothly and carefully — picking out the edges and points — round and 
round bottle. Cover it up, or put where no dust can reach till dry, when 
it will look new. Use no soap, only ale or beer. P^ither removes rws^m^ss, 
and veils, (black net, or lace) dipped in beer for an instant, folded smootJily, 
pressed free of moisture in a cloth, and then hung for a couple of min- 
utes before the fire will become stiff, fresh, and nice, without ironing. The 
bottle is also nice to use for white lace, but do not use the ale or beer. 

Washing Light Colored Prints and Cambrics. — Take a tablespoon of 
alum, and dissolve it in enough luke warm water to rinse a print dress. Dip 
the soiled dress into it, taking care to wet thoroughly every part of it, and 
then wring it out. Have warm, not hot, suds all ready, and wash out the 
dress quickly ; then rinse it in cold water. (White castile soap is the best for 
colored cottons, if it can be commanded.) Have the starch ready, but not 



1094 THE LAUNDRY. 



too hot; rinse the dress in it, wring out, and hang it wrong side out to dry, 
l)ut not in the sun. Place it where tlie wind will strike it rather than the 
sun. When dry, iron directly. Prints should never be sprinkled ; but, if 
allowed to become too dry, they should be ironed under a damp cloth. It 
is better to wash them sonie day by themselves, when washing and ironing 
can be done at once. 

To Wash Flannels in Boiling Water. — Make a strong suds of boiling 
water and soft soap — hai-d soap makes flannels stiff and wiry — put them in, 
pressing them down under the water with a clothes-stick; when cool enough 
rub the articles carefully between the hands, then wring — but not through 
tlie wringer — as dry as possible, shake, snap out, and pull each piece into its 
original size and shape, then throw immediately into another tub of boiling 
water, in which you have thoroughly mixed some nice blueing. Shake them 
up and down in this last water with a clothes stick until cool enough for the 
hands, then rinse well, wring, shake out and pull into shape — the snapping 
and pulling are as necessary as the washing — and hang in a sunny place 
Mhere they will dry quickly. Many prefer to rinse in two waters with the 
bluing in the last, and this is always advisable when there are many flannels. 

Care of Irons. — When irons become rough or smoky, lay a little 
fine salt on a flat surface and rub them well ; it will prevent them sticking to 
any thing starched, and make them smooth ; or scour with bath brick before 
heating, and when hot rub well with salt, and then with a small piece of 
beeswax tied up in a rag, after which wipe clean on a dry cloth. A piece of 
fine sandpaper is also a good thing to have near the stove, or a hard, smooth 
board covered with brick dust, to rub each iron on when it is put back on 
the stove, so that no starch may remain to be burnt on. Put beeswax be- 
tween pieces of paper or cloth and keep on the table close by the flat-iron 
stand. If the irons get coated with scorched starch, rub them over the pa- 
])er that holds the beeswax and it will all come off. Rubbing the iron over 
the waxed paper, even if no starch adheres, adds to the glossiness of the 
linen that is ironed. Washing them well in soap suds, wiping dry and wrap- 
])ing in brown paper will keep them nicely when not in use. Do not keep on 
srove after through using them as it soon burns them out. 

Washing Lace. — To make the starch properly, mix the dry particles with 
enough cold water to make a smooth paste, add cold water until it looks like 
milk and water, and boil it in a smoothly glazed earthen vessel until it is 
]ierfectly transparent. While it is cooling, squeeze the laces through a soap- 
suds, and rinse them in clear water. If you wish them clear white, add a 
little bluing; if ivory white, omit^the blueing, and if yellow-tinged add a few 
teaspoons clear coffee to the starch. Run through the starch, squeeze, roll 
up in towels, and clap each piece separately until dry; pull gently into 
shape, from time to time, with the fingers, and pin on the ironing table or 
bosom-board or upon the pillows in the "spare" bedroom. When dry, press 
Ijetween tissue paper with a hot iron, punch the openings with an ivory 
stiletto, and pick each pearl or loop on the edge with a coarse pin until it 
looks like new lace. 

Lawn and Muslin dresses that have fadea may be whitened in the boiling 
suds, and bleached on the grass, and, when done up, are quite as pretty as 
dresses made of new white material. Delicate hued muslin and cambric dress- 
es may be washed nicely by the following process : Shave half a poimd of com- 
mon hard soap into a gallon of boiling water; let it melt, turn it into a tub of 
lukewarm water ; stir a quart of wheat bran into a second tub of lukewarm 
water, and have ready a third tub with clear water ; put the dress into the first 
tub of suds, rub gently, or rather ".souse" it up and down, and squeezeit out ; 



THE LArXDRV. lOJ.^ 



treat it the same in a tub of bran water ; rinse, dry and dip in starch made 
tlie same as for shirts ; dry again, and then rinse thoroughly in cle;tr water • 
dry again, and sprinkle with a whisk-broom or sprinkler; roll up in a thick 
clot^h while the iron gets hot, and iron with them as hot as they can be used 
without scorching the dress. By taking a clear day, it is little trouble to do 
several dresses m a few hours, 

To Remove Grease from Silk, Cotton, Linen or Worsted Goods.— Ruh mag- 
nesia freely on both sides of silk or worsted goods and hang away. Benzine 
ether or soap will take out spots from silk, but remember the goods must not 
be rubbed. Oil or turpentine or benzine will remove spots of paint, varnish 
or pitch from white or colored cotton or woolen goods. After using it, thev 
should be washed in soap-suds. Spots from sperm candles, stearine, and 
the like, should be softened and removed by ninety-five per cent alcohol, then 
spongedoffwith weak alcohol, and a small quantity of ammonia added to 
It. Holding white cotton or linen over the fumes of burning sulphur, and 
wetting in warm chloride water, will take out wine and fruit stains The 
sooner the remedy is applied, after any of these spots or stains are discover- 
ed, the more effectual the restoration. From white linen or cotton by soap- 
suds or weak lye, and from calicoes with warm soap-suds. From woolens 
by soap-suds or ammonia. On silks use either yolk of egg with water mag- 
nesia, ether, benzine, ammonia or French chalk. ' 

• ,2"o Press ancZ CZea?i6m-b-.— All Satin goods should be pressed upon tne 
right side. To press and clean black silk, shake out all the dust, clean well 
with a flannel cloth, rubbing it up and down over the silk; this takes out 
all dust that may be left; take some good lager beer and soonge the silk 
both on the wrong and right side, sponging across the width'of the silk, and 
not down thn length, and withamoderatelv-warm iron, press what is intend- 
ed for thew- ong side. After sponging, it is better to wait a few minutes be- 
fore pressing as the irons will not be so apt to stick. 

Or, sponge with hot coffee, thoroughly freed from sediment by beinc 
strained through muslin. The silk is sponged on the side intended to show" 
It IS allowed to become partially dry, and then ironed on the wrong side 
Ihe coffee removes every particle of grease, and restores the brilliancy of 
silk, without giving it either the shiny appearance or crackly or papery stifl'- 
ness obtained by beer or any other liquid. The silk appears thickened by 
the process, and this good effect remains. 

To Make Hard Soap.—Vlace one gallon of good soft soap in a kettle to 
boil ; when it begins to boil, stir in a pint measure level full of common salt 
stirring it all the time till the salt is dissolved, then set to cool Next day' 
cut out the soap in squares, scrape off the soft, dark part, that adheres to the 
lower side ot the cakes, pour out the lye, and wash the kettle ; place the 
soap, cut m thin slices in the kettle, with more weak lye. If the lye is 
strong add rain-water, pint for pint ; let it boil until the soap is dissolved 
While boihng, again stir in a pint measure leyel full of salt, stirrino' it same 
as before, and set to cool. When perfectly hard, cut it in cakes the size you 
wish, scraping off the soft lye part that adheres to the lower side, and lay on 
boards, top side down in the sun, turning it each day until sufficiently dry 
Or, if you wish to make a twelve or fourteen gallon kettle of soft soap into 
hard, three quarts of salt, stirred in each time, will be sufficient. But as 
soap differs in strength, the quantity of salt must also differ. The stronger the 
soap the more salt is required. A good general rule is our old grandmother's • 
' W hen the soap is boiling, stir in salt until it curdles and becomes whitish 
in color." It can be tested by placing some in a shallow pan, as it cools in 
a tew minutes sufficiently to know if enough salt is in. 



1096 



THE LAUNDRY. 




Clotbei Pounder. 



A Clothes Pounder. — Among all the ways and machines tried for washing 
clothes some find nothing equal to a barrel and pounder. 
Bore six or seven inch and a half, or larger holes, into 
the end of a six or eight inch sapling (can use butternut, 
it bores easily, and is handy,) two or three inches deep, 
then bore a %-iuch side hole through the bottom of the 
larger ones to let out the air and water when pounding. 
The pounder should be six or eight inches long or high, 
made a little tapering, and a hoop-iron band put round 
it near the top. For a handle use a common ash hoe- 
handle, such as can be bought at stores for a dime. A 
coal oil barrel to pound in is cheap and strong, and it 
makes a good water barrel, or convenient to put in 
dirty clothes. Soap clothes well, and put into barrel 
just warm water enough to thoroughly wet the clothes. 
In washing this way persons generally use too much 
water, it then makes splashing work. If the water gets 
too dirty, change it of course. A pounder made as il- 
lustrated is even better than one described. 

To Bleach Muflin. — For thirty yards of muslin, take 
one pound of chloride of lime, dissolve in two quarts 
rain-water ; let cloth soak overnight in warm rain-water, 
or long enough to be thoroughly wet ; wring out cloth and 
put in another tub of warm rainwater in which the chloride of lime solution 
has been poured. Let it remainf or about twenty minutes, lifting up the cloth 
and airing every few minutes, and rinse in clear rain-water. This will not injure 
the cloth in the least, and is much less troublesome than bleaching on the grass 

Or, scald in suds and lay them on the clean grass all night, or if this can 
not be done, bring in and place in a tub of clean soft water. In the morning 
scald again and put out as before. It will take from one to two weeks to 
bleach white. May be bleached in winter by placing on the snow. May is 
the best month for bleaching. To whiten yellow linens or muslins, soak 
over night, or longer, in buttermilk; rinse thoroughly and wash the same as 
other clothes. This will also answer for light calicoes, percales, lawns, etc., 
that will not fade. Some use sour milk when not able to get buttermilk. To 
whiten yellow laces, old collars, etc., put in a glass_ bottle or jar in a strong 
suds, let stand in sun for seven days, shaking occasionally. 

To Wash Lace Curtains. — Shake the dust well out of the lace, put in tepid 
water, in which a little soda has been dissolved, and wash ai once carefully 
with the hands in several waters, or until perfectly clean ; rinse in water 
well blued, also blue the boiled starch quite deeply and squeeze, but do not 
wring. Pin some sheets down to the carpet in a vacant, airy room, then pin 
on the curtains stretched to exactly the size they were before being wet. In 
a few hours they will be dry and ready to put up. The whole process of 
washing and pinning down should occupy as little time as possible, as lace 
will shrink more than any other cotton goods when long wet. _ Above all, it 
should not be allowed to "soak.* from the mistaken idea that it washes more 
easily, nor should it ever be ironed. Another way is to fasten them in a pair 
of frames, which every housekeeper should have made very like the old- 
fashioned quilting-frames, thickly studded along the inside with the smallest 
size of galvanized tenter hooks, in which to fasten the lace, and having holes 
and wooden pins with which to vary the length and breadth to suit the dif- 
ferent sizes of curtains. The curtains should always be measured before be- 
ing wet, and stretched in the frames to that size to prevent shrinking. Five 
or six curtains of the same size may be put in, one above the other, and all 
dried at once. The frames may rest on four chairs. 



THE LAUNDRY. 1097 



How to do up Shirt-bosoms. — To fine starch add a piece of "Enamel" the 
size of a hazle-nut ; if this is not at hand use a table-spoon gum-arabic solu- 
tion (made by pouring boiling water upon gum-arabic and standing until 
clear and transparent) , or a piece of clean mutton tallow half the size of a 
nutmeg and a teaspoon of salt will do, but is not as good. Strain the starch 
through a strainer or a piece of thin muslin. Have the shirt turned wrong 
side out; dip the bosoms carefully in the fine starch, made according to re- 
cipe, and squeeze out, repeating the operation until the bosoms are thorough- 
ly and evenly saturated with starch ; proceed to dry. Three hours before 
ironing dip the bosoms in clear water ; wring out and roll up tightly. First 
iron the back by folding it lengthwise through the center; next "iron the 
wristbands, and both sides of the sleeves ; then the collar-band ; now place 
the bosom-board under the bosom, and with a dampened napkin rub the 
bosom from the top towards the bottom, smoothing and arranging each plait 
neatly. With smooth, moderately hot flat-iron, begin at the top and iron 
downwards, and continue the operation until the bosom is perfectly dry and 
shining. Remove the bosom-board, and iron the front of the shirt. The 
bosoms and cuffs of shirts, indeed of all nice work, will look clearer and bet- 
ter if they are first ironed under a piece of thin old muslin. It takes off" the 
first heat of the iron, and removes any lumps of starch. 

Washing Fluid.— The very best known, as it saves time, labor, clotnes 
and soap : One pound sal-soda, one-half pound stone lime, five quarts soft 
water, (some add one-fifth pound borax) ; boil a short time in copper or 
brass kettle, stirring occasionally, let settle and pour off the clear fluid into 
a stone jug, and cork for use ; soak white clothes over night in simple water, 
wring out and soap wristbands, collars, and dirty stained places ; have boiler 
half filled with water, and when at scalding heat put in one common tea- 
spoon of fluid, stir and put in clothes, and boil half an hour, rub lightly 
through one suds only, rinsing well in the blueing water as usual, and all is 
complete. Instead of soaking clothes over night, they may soak in suds for 
a few hours before beginning washing. For each additional boiler of clothes, 
add a half cup only of the fluid, of course boiling in the same water through 
the whole washing. If more water is needed in the boiler for the last clothes, 
dip it from the sudsing tub. This fluid brightens instead of fading the colors 
in calico, and is good for coloring flannels. It does not rot clothes, but thry 
must not lie long in the water; the boiling, sudsing, rinsing and blueing must fol- 
low each other in rapid succession, until clothes are hung on the line, whii-h 
should be by ten o'clock in the morning. Some of this fluid, put in hot water, 
is excellent for removing grease spots from the floor, doors, and windows ; 
also for cleansing tin-ware, pots, and kettles. 

To Wash Woolen Goods. — Dissolve a large tablespoon borax in a pint 
boiling water. Mix one quarter of it in the cold water in which greasy 
woolen goods are to be washed. Put in one piece at a time, using soap, if 
needed ; and if necessary add more of the borax-water. Wash and rinse in 
cold water. Shake well and hang where the goods will dry quickly. Flan- 
nels can be washed in the same way. The important thing in washing 
flannels is to have all waters of the same temperature. If you begin with 
cold, go through with cold ; if with hot, have all waters equally hot. They 
must not be allowed to freeze in drying. Some add a little salt to the last 
rinsing water. In washing flannels be careful that the soap used has no resin 
in it. When flannels are nearly dry, take in, fold carefully, roll up in damp 
cloth so that that they will iron smoothly. In ironing heavy woolen goods, 
especially pants, vests, etc., it is well to let them get dried, then spread 
them out on an ironing-board (not on a table), wring a cloth out of clear 
water, and lay over the article, then iron with a hot iron till dry ; wet the 
cloth again and spread it just above the part already ironed, letting it coiu j 



1098 THE LAUNDRY. 



a half inch or so on that which has been pressed, so that there will be no 
line to mark where the cloth was moved ; continue this till the whole gar- 
ment has been thoroughly pressed. Woolen garments thus ironed will look 
like new ; but in doing this care must be exercised that every spotthat looks 
at all "fulled" or shrunk should be stretched while being pressed under the 
wet clotli. Bring the outside to fit the linings, as when new, but if not quite 
able to do this, rip the lining and trim off to match. All the seams, espec- 
ially on pants, must be first pressed on a "press board," then fold the pants 
as they are found in the tailor's shop, and go over them with the wet cloth 
and hot iron. Soap-bark Tea water is also nice for washing pants, etc. 

Flour Starch. — One cofi'ee cup flour a little rounded, water enougli to 
moisten it, let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, then add enough more water to 
make it the consistency of thin molasses. Beat well, and to make it perfectly 
smooth, stir well with an egg-beater. Have a clean kettle or pan with five 
pints of water (soft water is best) on stove boiling, into which stir this thick- 
ening, let it boil from two to five minutes, then stir in half teaspoon each 
salt and butter or lard, or stir while boiling with a sperm candle. Strain 
through a cotton flour sack, or a bag made of a crash towel, by putting the 
ends together and sewing up the sides. It is well to have a pan of cold water 
in which to dip the hand, in order to squeeze starch through as hot as pos- 
sible, as to secure best results starch must be very hot. If the articles to be 
starched need to be very stiff, dry them before starching ; if not, wring them 
well through the wringer, then starch. This quantity will starch two large 
work aprons, bosom and cuflTs of two calico shirts, one calico dress, a tie 
apron and five children's aprons. A rainy, damp, or very windy day, is not 
good for starching. Anything that is required to be extra stiff, as the front 
of a sunbonnet, can be restarcbed by rubbing more starch on after it first 
becomes dry, do so one or more times until it is stiff enough. Starch made 
this way makes the clothes look nicely, and seldom sticks to the iron or rubs 
up on the clothes. If it should, place a small lump of beeswax on the cloth 
on which the iron is tested, rub the hot iron swiftly over the beeswax, then 
rub it on the cloth before ironing the garment. Rubbing the hot iron over 
the beeswax, causes the latter to stick to the cloth, and the same cloth can 
be used many times, it is a much better way than to have the beeswax tied 
up in a cloth. 

To Dry-gtarch, Fold and Iron Shirts. — In doing up shirts, wristbands 
and collars should be starched first if the collars are sewed on. Dip them 
into the hot starch, and as soon as the hand can bear the heat (and dipping 
the hand in cold water often will expedite the work) rub the starch in very 
thoroughly, taking care that no motes or lumps of starch adhere to the linen. 
Then starch the shirt-bosom the same way keeping the starch hot all the 
time by setting the dish in a deep pan of water. Rub it into the linen very 
carefully, pass the finger under the plaits and raise them up so that the 
starch shall penetrate all through evenly. Some rub it into the plaits with 
a piece of clean linen, but we think the hand does the work more thoroughly 
and evenly. When perfectly starched, shake out the shirt evenly, fold both 
sides of the bosom together and bring the shoulders and side seams together 
evenly; that will lay the sleeves one over the other, and after pulling the 
wristbands into shape smoothlv they can be folded together and the wrist- 
bands rolled tightly and, with the sleeves, be folded and laid even on the 
sides of the shirt. 'Then turn the sides with the sleeves over on the front, 
and beginning at the neck roll the whole tightly together, wrap in a towel 
and let it remain so several hours before ironing— all night ii starched and 
folded in the evening — and in the summer put in a cool place where the 
starch will not sour, and in the winter keep warm enough to prevent freez- 
ing. To do up shirt bosoms in the most perfect way, one must have a "pol- 



THE LAUNDRY. 1099 



ishing iron" — a small iron rounded over and highlj' polished on the ends and 
sides. Spread the bosom on a hard and very smooth board, with only one 
thickness of cotton cloth sewed tight across it. Spread a wet cloth over and 
iron quickly with a hot iron, then remove the cloth and with a polishing iron 
as hot as can be used without scorching, rub the bosom quick and hard up 
and down, not crosswise. Use only the rounded part of the front of the iron, 
that puts all the friction on a small part at one time, and gives the full bene- 
fit of all the gloss in starch or linen. 

Soap Fo7' Family Use. — Much of the toilet and laundry soaps in the 
market are adulterated with injurious, and to some persons, poisonous sub- 
tances by which diseases of the skin are occasioned or greatly aggravated, 
and great suffering results, which is rareiy traced to the real cause. The fat 
tried from animals which have died of disease, if not thoroughly saponified, 
is poisonous, and sometimes produces death. If in making soap the mass is 
heated to too high a degree, a film of soap forms around the particles of fat ; 
if at this stage resin, sal-soda, silicate, and other adulterations are added, 
the fat is not saponified, but filmed, and if poisonous or diseased, it so re- 
mains, and is dangerous to use. ' A bar of such soap has an oily feeling, and 
is unfit for use. If it feels sticky, it has too much resin in it. "The slippery 
feeling which belongs to soap properly made cannot be mistaken. Another 
test of pure soft or hard soap is its translucent or semi-transparent appear- 
ance. Soft soap that is cloudy is not thoroughly saponified, or else has been 
made of dirty or impure grease. It is not only safer but more economical to 
buy pure soap, as the adulterations increase the quantity without adding 
to the erasive power. Some of the brown soaps sold in the market are sev- 
enty-five per cent resin, and the buyer gets only twenty-five per cent of 
what he wants for his money. Fifteen per cent, resin improves the quality, 
but any excess damages it, and is worse than useless. Almost any family may 
make excellent soft soap with very little expense by saving grease, andiising 
lye from pure hardwood ashes or pure potash. Never use concentrated lye. 

To set the leach, bore several auger holes in the bottom of a barrel; or 
use one without a bottom ; prepare a board wider than the barrel, set barrel 
on it, and cut a groove around just outside tlie barrel, making one groove 
from this to the edge of the board to carry oflT the lye as it runs off". Place two 
feet from the ground, and tip so that the lye maj^ run easily from the board 
into the vessel below prepared to receive it. Put half-bricks or stones 
around the edge of inside of barrel, place on them one end of sticks one or 
two inches wide, inclining to the center; place straw to the depth of two 
inches, over it scatter two pounds slacked lime , put in the ashes about a half 
bushel at a time, pack well by using a pounder, spade, or common ax ; con- 
tinue to pack until barrel is full, leaving a funnel-shaped hollow in the cen- 
ter large enough to hold several quarts of water. Use soft or rain-vA^ater, and 
boiling hot. Let the first water disappear before adding more. If the ashes 
are packed very tightly, it may require two or three days before the lye will 
begin to run, but it is much better as it will be stronger. If a large quantity 
of lye is needed, prepare a board long enougli to hold two or more bai-rels, 
one back of the other, with a groove in the center the entire length of the 
board; on this place the barrels prepared as above. A test of the strength 
of the lye is if it will bear up an egg ; another is to heat the lye to boiling, 
whirl a feather around in it nine times, and if it eats the feather it will make 
soap. 

Sun or Cold Soap is made by adding one pound of cleansed grease, 
spoiled lard or butter, to each gallon of lye strong enough to float an egg. 
Set the vessel in the sun and stir thoroughly each day until it is good soap. 
This gives it a golden color, and produces an excellent soap for washing. It 
may be used in washinsr even laces and fine cambrics with perfect safety. 



1100 THE LAUNDRY. 



To Cleanse Grease.— Place all grease of whatever kind, soup bones, ham- 
rinds, cracklings, or any refuse fat into a kettle, with weak lye enough to 
boil it until all particles of fat are extracted ; let it cool, then skim off the 
grease, which is now ready to make the "Sun Soap." Would add right 
here that no fat should be put away for soap grease until fried thoroughly. 

Boiled Soap. — There is no romance or poetry in making boiled soap, only 
patient hard work ; yet without this useful article, what an unpresentable 
people we should be. Place the grease, consisting of soup-bones and all 
kinds of fat that accumulate in a kitchen, in a kettle, filling it only half full ; 
if there is too much fat, it can be skimmed oflf after the soap is cold, for 
another kettle of soap. This is the only true test when enough fat is used, 
as the lye will consume all that is needed and no more. Make a fire under 
one side of it. The kettle should be in an out-house or out of doors. Let it 
heat very hot so as to fry, and stir it to prevent burning; now put in the lye, 
a gallon at a time, watch closely until it boils, as it sometimes runs over at 
the beginning. Add lye until the kettle is full enough, but not too full, 
to boil well. Soap should boil from the side and not the middle, as this 
would be more likely to cause it to boil over. To test the soap, to one spoon- 
ful of soap add one of rain water ; if it stirs up very thick, the soap is good 
and will keep ; if it becomes thinner, it is unfit for use. 

This is the result of three causes ; it is too weak, there is a deposit of 
dirt, or it is too strong. Continue to boil for a few hours, when it should 
flow from the stick with which it is stirred, like thick molasses ; but if after 
boiling it remams thin, let it stand over night, removing the fire, then drain 
very carefully into another vessel, being particular to prevent any sediment 
from passing. Wash the kettle, return the soap and bring to a boil, and if 
the cause was dirt, it will now be thick and good, otherwise it is too strong, 
and needs rain-water added. This can safely be done by pouring in a small 
quantity at a time, uiitil it becomes thick. These are the usual causes that 
arise to trouble soap-makers. If other difficulties appear, they must use 
good common sense to meet and overcome them. 

It might not be amiss to add to this, the most economical way of saving 
soap grease. Have a kettle standing in the yard in summer time (or if there 
is not a yard, in cellar), and as you save a little grease, put it in, but do not 
put in raw grease. If there are any pieces of fat left after using a ham or 
lumps of suet not used in cooking a steak, put them in a skillet and fry them 
brown, then put all into the kettle of lye ; thus every particle of fat will be 
saved, and no fear of insects, rats or mice getting into and destroying the 
grease. Keep the kettle covered during night or when raining, but uncov- 
ered in the sunshine, stirring occasionally. In the fall, all that is necessary 
is to make a fire under the kettle, and let it boil a short time, adding more 
lye or grease if needed. If there are too many bones in it, or any particles 
that have not become consumed, ^kim them out and put them in a pot of 
weak, hot lye, stirring them with the skimmer to rinse off all the soap, then 
skim out and throw away, and the pot of lye which has become almost soap, 
may now be added to the kettle of good soap. A few beef bones left in the 
barrel will sink to the bottom, and are said by some good housewives to im- 
prove the soap. Soft soap should be kept in a dry place in cellar, and is bet- 
ter if allowed to stand three months before using. 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1101 



SOMETHING- ABOUT BABIES 



A child's first right is to be well born, of parents sound in body and mind, 
who can boast a long line of ancestors on both sides ; an aristocracy, based 
on the cardinal virtues of purity, chastity, sobriety and honesty. 

If the thought, the money, the religious enthusiasm, now expended for 
the regeneration of the race, were wisely directed to the generation of our 
descendents, to the conditions and environments of parents and children, the 
whole face of society might be changed before we celebrate the next centen- 
nial of our national life. 

All religious, educational, benevolent, and industrial societies combined, 
working harmoniously together, can not do as much in a life-time of effort, 
toward the elevation of mankind, as can parents in the nine months of pre- 
natal life. Locke took the ground that the mind of every child born into the 
world is like a piece of blank paper, that you may write thereon whatever 
you will ; but science proves that such idealists as Descartes were nearer 
right when they declared that each soul comes freighted with its own ideas, 
its individual proclivities ; that the pre-natal influences do more in the for- 
mation of character than all the education that come after. 

Let the young man, indulging in all manner of excesses, remember that 
in considering the efTect of dissipation, wine, and tobacco, on himself and 
his own happiness or misery, he does not begin to measure the evil of his life. 
As the High Priest at the family altar, his deeds of darkness will entail un- 
told suffering on generation after generation. Let the young woman with 
wasp-like waist, who lives on candies, salads, hot bread, pastry, and pickles, 
whose listless brain and idle hands seek no profitable occupation, whose life 
is given to folly, remember that to her ignorance and folly may yet be traced 
the downfall of a nation. 

One of the most difficult lessons to impress on any mind is the power and 
extent of individual influence ; the parents, above all others, resist the belief 
that their children are exactly what they make them ; no more, no less ; like 
producing like. If there is a class of educators who need special preparation 
for their high and holy calling, it is those who assume the responsibility of 
parents. Shall we give less thought to the creation of an immortal being 



1102 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

than the artist devotes to his statue or landscape? We wander through tlie 
art galleries in the old world, and linger before the works of the great mats- 
ters, transfixed with the grace and beauty, the glory and grandeur, of the 
ideals that surround us, and, with equal preparation, greater than these are 
])()S8ible in living, breathing humanity. The same thought and devotion in 
real life would soon give us a generation of sainte, scholars, scientists and 
statesmen, of glorified humanity ; such as the world has not yet seen. To 
this hour, we have left the greatest event of the life to chance, and the result 
is the blind, the deaf anddumb, the idiot, the lunatic, the epileptic, the crim- 
inal, the drunkard, the glutton — thousands of human beings in our young 
republic, that never should have been born; a tax on society, a disgrace to 
their parents, and a curse to themselves. 

Well born — a child's next right is to intelligent care. If we buy a rare 
plant, we ask the florist innumerable questions as to its proper training ; but 
the advent of an immortal being seems to suggest no new thought, to anxious 
investigation into the science of human life. Here we trust everything to an 
ignorant nurse, or a neighbor wlio knows perchance less than we do ourselves. 
Ignorance bandages the new-born child, as tight as a drum, from arm- 
pits to hips, compressing every vital organ. There is a tradition that all in- 
fants are subject to colic for the first three months of their existence ; at the 
end of which time the bandage is removed, and the colic ceases. Reason 
suggests that the bandage may be the cause of the colic, and queries as to the 
origin of the custom, and its use. She is told with all seriousness, ''that the 
bones of a new-born child are like cartilage, that, unless they are pinned up 
snugly, they are in danger of falling to pieces." Reason replies : "If Infinite 
Wisdom has made kittens and puppies so that their component parts remain 
together, it is marvelous that He should have left the human beings wholly 
at the mercy of a bandage;" and proposes with her first-born to dispense 
with swaddling bandages, leaving only a-slight compress on the navel, for a 
feAV days, until perfectly healed. 

Ignorance, believing that every child comes into the world in a diseased 
and starving condition, begins at once the preparati<.)n of a variety of nostrums, 
chemical and culinary, which she persistently administers to the struggling 
victim. Reason, knowing that after the fatigue of a long and perilous march, 
what the young soldier most needs is absolute rest in some warm and cozy 
tent, shelters him under her wing, and fights off all intruders, sure that when 
he needs his rations the world will hear from him. His first bath should be 
a generous application of pure, sweet olive oil, from head to foot, in every 
little corner and crevice of his outer man ; and then he should be immersed 
in warm soap-suds, so nearly the temperature of the body as to cause no 
shock. Great care should be taken that neither oil or soap touch the eyes. 
The room should be very warm, all drafts excluded; and on emerging fi-om 
the tub, a hot soft-flannel blanket should be closely wrapped around him. 
in which he may rest awhile before dressing. The softest garments, simply 
made, and so cut as to fasten round the throat and rest on the shoulders, 
Bhduld constitute his wardrobe; eschew all bands, pins, ligatures, ruffl^es, 
embroidery, caps, socks, etc. '•' 

Let the child's first efforts at foraging for an existence be at his mother's 
breast; there he will find the medicine he needs, and just what she needs, 
too, to dis])0se of. 

The child's mouth and the mother's nipples should be carefully washed 
before nursing; thus, much suffering, for both mother and child, will be 
prevented. 

"Give the baby water six times a day," was one of the most important 
messages ever sent over the telegraph wires to a mother. 

Ignorance bothes her baby on a full stomach, because she finds it will go 
through the ordeal of dressing more quietly ; Reason bathes hers two hours 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1103 

after feeding, knowing that the vital forces needed for digestion should not 
be drawn to the surface. Being constructed on the same general plan with 
the parents, the same principle that makes it dangerous for a man to go 
swimming immediately after eating, makes it equally so to put a bady in its 
tub after nursing. 

Though Ignorance eats her own meals regularly and at stated times, she 
feeds her baby at all times and seasons. If the child has colic from over- 
eating, or the improper diet of its mother, she tries to allay its suffering with 
additional feeding and vigorous trotting ; not succeeding, she ends the drama 
with a spoonful of Mrs. Winslow's soothing syrup ; having drugged the sen- 
tinel and silenced his guns, she imagines the citidel safe. Reason feeds her 
baby regularly, by the clock, once in two or three hours, and gives the stomach 
some chance for rest. She prevents colic by regulating her own diet and 
habits of life, knowing that improper articles of food, and ill-nature or out- 
bursts of passion in the mother, have cost many a baby its life 

Ignorance, having noticed that her baby sleeps longer with its head cov- 
ered, uniformly excludes the air. Breathing the same air over a dozen times, 
it becomes stupefied with the carbonic-acid gas, is thrown into a profuse 
perspiration, and is sure to catch cold on emerging from the fetid atmos- 
phere. Reason puts her child to sleep, with head uncovered, in a spacious 
chamber, bright with sunlight and fresh air ; where, after a long nap, she 
will often find him (as soon as he is old enough to notice objects) looking at 
the shadows on the wall, or studying the anatomical wonders of his own hands 
and feet, the very picture of content. 

Regular feeding, freedom in dress, plenty of sleep, water, sunlight, and 
pure air, will secure to babies that health and happiness that in nature 
should be their inlieritance. 

"Seeing that the atmosphere is forty miles deep, all around the globe," 
says Horace Mann, "it is a useless piece of economy to breath it more than 
once. If we were obliged to trundle it in wheel-barrows, in order to fill our 
homes, churches, school-houses, railroad-cars, and steamboats, there might 
be some excuse for our seeming parsimony. But as it is we are prodigals of 
health, of which we have so little ; and niggards of air, of which we have so 
much". — Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, New York. 



For Worins, give rue tea ; for colic, catnip tea. 

Milk for the Use of children should cool until the animal heat is gone be- 
fore using. 

Ginger-bread made from oatmtal instead of flour is a good aperient for 
children. 

While the baby is down for a creep, draw little stocking legs over his arms, 
and secure them by a safety-pin. 

Some babies' skins ivill not bear flannel. — In this case a linen shirt should 
be put on first, and flannel over it. 

Jumping the Rope is an injurious and dangerous amusement, often result- 
ing in diseases of the spine and brain. 

A baby should sleep on its side. — When lying on its back the food some- 
times rises in its throat and chokes it. 

Eating snow, except in small quantities, is very injurious, producing ca- 
tarrh, congestion and many other troubles. 



1104 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

When chafed, squeeze cold water over the parts chafed. Dry lightly with- 
out rubbing, and apply vaseline or cold cream. 

If a scurf or milk-crust appears on the head, do not apply water, but oil 
at night and brush over gently with a baby's soft brush. 

Don't give the baby cordials, soothing syrups, paregoric and sleeping- 
drops. All such things injure the constitution of the child. 

No child should go to bed hungry, but food taken near the hours of sleep- 
ing should be of the simplest nature — a cracker, a piece of bread, or a glass 
of milk. 

Always hold a baby with feet next the fire, when sitting in a room with 
afire in it. The old adage, "Keep the feet warm and the head cool," means 
a good deal. 

Great care must be taken that children are not fed with milk that has 
been turned by a thunder-storm. The chemical change is rapid, and extra 
caution is necessary. 

If the children who attend school are puny and do not seem to thrive, 
take them away from school. Give the child a robust body, whether he is 
at the head or tail of his class. 

Parents should teach their children to gargle their throats, for it may be 
the saving of their lives. It is easier to teach them this difficult and awkward 
feat in health than when prostrated by disease. 

For constipation, bran water is an excellent remedy. Boil two table- 
spoons bran in a pint of water for two hours, strain and use as food. It must 
be made fresh every day, and the fresher the better. 

To cure the earache. — Take a bit of cotton batting, put upon it a pinch of 
black pepper, gather it up and tie it, dip it in sweet-oil, and insert it into the 
ear. Put a flannel bandage over the head to keep it warm. 

Let nature wake the children ; she will not do it prematurely. Take care 
that they go to bed at an early hour — let it be earlier and earlier, until it is 
found that they wake up themselves in full time to dress for breakfast. 

To prevent a child coughing at night, boil the strength out of ten cents worth 
of "seneca snake root" in one quart of soft water ; strain through a cloth, boil 
down to a pint, add one cup powdered sugar made into a thick molasses. 
Give one teaspoon on going to bed. 

Just before each meal let the child have some ripe fruit or some fruit sauce. 
Apples and berries are wholesome. Oranges should never he given to chil- 
dren unless the skin and the thick white part underneath the skin and be- 
tween the quarters is all carefully removed. 

Never let the little children go out of doors in winter without being warmiy 
clad. They lose heat rapidly, and easily contract throat and lung affections. 
Every child should have full suits of underclothing ; and especially let the 
legs and ankles be well protected with thick stockings and leggings. 

If baby strangles, place your thumb on its nose, between the eyes, and 
press gently upwards. It always makes them swallow. In giving medicine, 
keep the point, of the spoon against the roof of the mouth and they can't 
strangle. But with watchful care you will not have to give much medicine. 

Great care should be taken to shade a baby's eyes from the light. If a 
Htrung light shines directly in its face, it often produces ophthalmia, an in. 



SOIIETiriNU ABOUT BABIES. 1105 



flamation of the eyelids, which is troublesome and dangerous. A few drop? 
of breast-milk, applied to the eye and worked under the lid, is very healing 
to sore eyes. 

A lump of sugar, saturated with vinegar, will stop hiccough when drink- 
ing water will not. For babies, a few grains of sugar will often suffice. Care 
must be taken in giving sugar to nursing babies, as it is constipating. Dio 
Lewis says feather pillows are death to children. Make them of straw or 
biir, and not too large. 

Children are often troubled with ulcers in the ears after scarlet fever and 
other children's diseases. Roast onions in ashes until done, wrap in a strong 
clot^r, and squeeze out juice. To three parts juice, add one part laudanum 
and one part sweet-oil, and bottle for use. Wash ear out with warm water, 
shake bottle well, and drop a few drops into the ear. 

Snuffles need not be known in the category of baby troubles if mothers 
will have a carael's hair brush and carefuUj^ cleanse out baby's nose every 
morning when washing him ; and also watch for the little hard pieces that 
form in it t*d carefully take them out, putting up a little oil to'soften them, 
or a little breast milk milked up will cause the baby to sneeze and loosen 
them. 

For symptoms of a cold, such as snuffling, or any slight hoarseness, give 
immediately a warm foot bath, and then grease with mutton tallow, the nose, 
neck, chest, and feet; warm the feet well at the fire. Sweet-oil, pig's-foot 
oil, or any kind of good grease will answer as well as mutton tallow. After 
warming well put them to bed and wrap up well. An oil-rub, as described 
hereafter, is one of the best things to give 

Bathe children in the forenoon when possible, or, if not too tired, an hour 
before the evening meal; never for at least an hour after eating. When pos- 
sible bathe before an open tire or in a warm room near, and rul) dry before 
an open tire. It is injurious to bathe children on rising before breaktast, 
especially in cold weather. Wasliing the face, neck and hands, and dress- 
ing, is enough before refreshing the i)ody by eating. 

Probably nine children out often who die of croup might be saved by timely 
application of roast onions, mashed, laid upon a folded napkin, and goose- 
oil, sweet-oil, or even lard, poured on and applied as warm as can be borne 
comfortably to the throat and upper part of the chest, and to the feet and 
hands, or the onions may be sliced, boiled soft in water until almost dry 
greese added, and cooked in the greese until browned. 

For sore mouth in nursing babies, take a teaspoon each of putverized alum 
and borax, half a salt-spoon of pulverized nut-galls, a table-spoon of honey ; 
mix, and pour on it half a tea-cup l)oiling water; let settle, and with a clean 
linen rag wash the mouth four or five times a day, using afresh piece of linen 
every day; or simple borax water is equally good. Half an even teaspoon 
powdered borax in two tablespoons soft water is strong enough, or use sage 
tea instead of the water, or simply dry powdered borax. 

The Perfect Night Dress is one of the best and safest night wear lor chil- 
dren. It is one garment, waist, sleeves and drawers ending in feet (regular 
stocking legs only fitting loosely), can be made of muslin, canton flannel or 
red flannel and perfectly protects their feet and limbs. Over this, in cold 
weather, may be worn a flannel sack._ At severe seasons, instead of putting 
an extra coverlet on the bed, we advise the use of a large bag, made of a 
light blanket, into which the child may be securely placed, and closely but 
toned in around neck. Light coverings generally are preferable to heavy 
ones, if the night clothing and the room are sufficiently warm, as they do 
not induce prespiration nor check exhalations. 



1106 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIED. 




Great Care Must he Taken that the navel of infants takes its proper place. 
If not attended to it is likely to pufF out and produce a breach. If it shows 
any signs of protruding, round a piece of cork on one side leaving it pointed 
in the center, with the top side fiat, cover with four or five thicknesses of 
linen, and lay over the navel, fastening it to its place by four or five strips 
of a porus plaster about an inch in width. Let it remain a month or more, or 
till well, as it will cause no inconvenience, renewing plaster if necessary. 

A Child's Fen. — It is not only troublesome 
but very dangerous for small children just able 
to toddle about and get into mischief, to be free 
to go where they please. The mother, if she has 
the care of the house, can not safely leave the 
child for a moment. The pen, which the cut 
represents, is a perfect protection for the child. 
It is too high to climb over, it moves at pleasure 
as the child walks about on the floor, and the 
mother is comparatively free to leave it and at- 
tend to other work. With a warm flannel blanket on the Hoot and play- 
things, it will amuse itself a long time. A cheaper substitute may be made 
of a light dry-goods box without bottom, with casters attached, and a box 
with bottom in with blankets in bottom is an excellent place to put a child, 
when the mother is necessarily absent for a short time. It is safe from harm, 
even if it does cry. 

See That a Child's Food is well cooked. Never give a child new bread. 
Always insist that a child thoroughl}' masticate his food. Avoid too nour- 
ishing a diet for a child of a violent, fretful temper. Give a nourishing diet 
to a pale, white-looking, delicate child. Both under-feeding and over-feed- 
ing are apt to produce scrofula or consumption. Carefully study a child's 
constitution, digestive powers, teeth, strength, and endeavor to proportion 
to these the kind and the quantity of its food. Sweetmeats and confection- 
ery should only be given to children very sparingly, if at all. Never pamper 
or reward a child with them. A child should never be allowed to go to 
sleep with damp, cold feet. Neglect of this has often resulted in dangerous 
attacks of croup, diphtheria, or a fatal sore throat. Always on entering the 
house in rainy, muddy, or thawy weather, the child should remove its shoes, 
and the mother should herself ascertain whether the stockings are the least 
damp. If they are they should be taken off, the feet held before the fire, 
rubbed with hands until perfectly dry, and dry stockings and shoes put on. 

In Cleansing the Ear, penetrate no deeper than you can clearly see. 
Never scratch or inflame the entrance to the ear. The ear-wax is not dirt, 
and should not be removed, at least only that portion which is plainly visi- 
ble should be disturbed. Pins and scrapers inserted in the ear are injurious. 
The wax will find its way out when too much is accumulated. Scraping pro- 
duces irritation, discomfort, and calls for a repetition, which after a time, 
produces disease. Sw^eet-oil, glycerine, etc., are apt to clog the ear and 
produce inflammation. Syringing the ear with tepid water relieves itching, 
if cold air gives pain a little wool, placed in the ear ivhile out of doors, will 
protect. 

Food for Babes. — Mix a babe's food or milk with its due proportions of 
sugar, and place the pitcher holding it in a deep plate — a soup plate or pie- 
dish will do — and fill the plate with cold water. Take a piece of thin mus- 
lin, large enough to cover the whole ])itcher and reach down all sides into 
the water. Have no cover on the jiitcher, wet the cloth and cover the pitcher 
with it ; put its ends into the water, and set the whole into a place where a 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1107 

draft of air will pass over it. A mother tried the plan, and during an exceed- 
ingly hot summer, through the most sultry days and nights of along season, 
the milk never turned at all. The rationale of the thing is easy. The milk 
is not confined in a close vessel, or in danger of being tainted by nearness 
to other, perhaps not wholesome, food ; the thin gauze protects it, yet leaves 
it open ; the draft of air keeps the temperature down by tlie constant evapor- 
ation, while the water is constantly sucked up by the cloth, acting like a 
wick in a lamp, to supply the moisture. The pain of teething may be almost 
done away, and the health of the child benefitted, by giving it fine splinters 
of ice, picked off with a pin, to melt in its mouth. The fragment is so small 
that it is but a drop of warm water before it can be swallowed, and the child 
has all the coolness for its feverish gums without the slightest injury. The 
avidity with which the little things taste the cooling morsel, the instant 
quiet which succeeds hours of fretf illness, and the sleep which follows the 
relief, are the best witnesses to this magic remedy. Ice may be fed to three 
months' child this way, each splinter being no longer than a common pin, 
for five or ten minutes, the result being that it has swallowed in that time a 
teaspoonful of warm water, which so far from being a harm, is good for it, 
and the process may be repeated hourly as often as the fretting fits from 
teething begin. 

An ivorj' ring, a silver dollar, or some similar article should be provided 
for them to bite on. Give plenty of pure water to drink. Or dip the end of 
the finger in cold water and rub the inflamed gums. 

Care of Babies. — It is not necessary to exclude light from room when the 
babe is born. The admission of sunlight should be regulated ; but a soft 
and pleasant light is a benefit to both mother and child. The baby should 
not be carried into a glowing sunshine, but should become gradually accus- 
tomed to the light. 

For restlessness or colic in children, give a warm bath at bed-time, dry 
quickly with soft towels, and rub well with the hand ; dress loosely, wrap in 
fla-nnel blanket, warm and lay away to sleep, or give three or four swallows 
of warm water; place one hand on stomach and one on back, and give a 
lixely trotting. This is better than a barrel of soothing syrup. If one "trip 
to Boston" on the knee will not do, try two, or three even, with a drink of 
warm water before starting. For sore mouth or constipation, give three or 
four swallows of cold water the first thing in the morning. _ This is both a 
preventive and a cure ; or sweet flag which may be obtained in a dried state 
at any drug store, is an excellent remedy for colic in children. Make a mild 
tea of it, sweeten, and give a teaspoonful whenever there are signs of trouble 
coming on. 

One of the best remedies for chafing is cocoa butter, which may be had 
in cakes at any drug ^tore. Warm slightly, if necessary, and apply to the 
chafed parts. Cocoa-nut oil is also excellent for greasing in scarlet fever. 
Among the old-fashioned and good remedies for the same purpose is the 
fatty inside of the rind of a smoked ham. 

For colds, hoarseness, or indications of croup, slice raw onions, sprinkle 
with granulated sugar, let stand until the juice is extracted (to hasten the 
flow of the juice, place in heater for a few moments), pour off juice, and give 
a teaspoonful every hour, or oftener if the case is severe. 

Greasing the navel, bowels, and up and down spine, at night before go- 
ing to bed, promotes regular action of the bowels, and cures constipation. 
If injections are necessary for babies, warm water with a very little pure 
soap dissolved in it is better than inserting a piece of hard soap, as is often 
done. Small syringes with flexible tubes, are now made, and are much 
safer than the old form of syringe. 

In washing children, do not let the water run into the ears. Children 
should never be washed in a careless, slipshod manner. The excretions 



1108 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

and the exhalations of the skin are often acrid enough to produce great ir- 
ritation and suffering, and careful washing, with liberal enough use of water 
to insure cleanliness, and rapid and thorough drying, removing every par- 
ticle of moisture in all the crevices of the skin, and that with a gentle hand. 
Use as little soap as possible, and that the finest kind, and be sure to wash 
it off thoroughly with pure soft water. After the surface is well dried, any 
harmless powder, such as corn starch, may be used to prevent chafing. 

In the case of a sick child, if the skin is tender when there is pressure, 
wash with diluted camphor water. Sick children should not lie long in one 
position, and the bed should be as smooth as possible. If there is any dis- 
ease in the head, a hair pillow or one of finely shredded corn-husks should 
take the place of a feather pillow. Cool, salt-water baths remove the prickly 
heat that is so annoying in summer. 

The warm bath, the water being at about the same heat as the surface 
of the body, fs best for young children. As they grow older the bath may 
be made cooler. 

Always be able to have fire in at least one room in the house, even in 
the warmest season, if there are children in the family. In the Northern 
States there is rarely a month in the year during which there is not an oc- 
casional day or evening when fire would be beneficial. 

Children should always play on the sunny side of the yard or street in 
cold weather. The sun-warmed air is what they need. Children less than 
four years old ought not to play out of doors when the thermometer ranges 
lower than 25^ above zero. 

To ventilate apartments without causing a draft, raise the lower sash four 
to six inches, and place under it a board perfectly fitted to the casing, so as 
to shut out all air. The cold, outside air then passes upward between the 
sash, to the upper part of the room, and is diffused without causing a draft. 
The niglit air is not objectionable, except in malarious regions. Indeed, in 
cities, the night air is purer than what is abroad by day. In the hot season, 
children should be kept out of the sun after ten o'clock, and may sit up later 
than usual at night to enjoy the cool evenings. Excessive heat is as fatal as 
excessive cold. Keep the baby cool by baths, but never put it to sleep in a 
room from which the sunshine is constantly kept. No room can be whole- 
some where sunshine is never admitted. 



AUNT Martha's prkscriptioks. 

Give a babe, one to lour weeks old, two teaspoons saffron tea (made by 
simmering a teaspoon dry saffron in half a teacui) water), once every other 
day. 

If troubled with colic, give catnip tea (simmering half a teacup of cat- 
nip in boiling water to cover, strain and sweeten) every night before the 
time for colic to come on. Catnip should always be gathered when in bloom, 
and before dog-days , then dry in the shade. When dried, place in a paper 
sack, and hang in a dry, cool place. 

One teaspoon of pure castor oil given to a new-born babe is excellent to 
carry off the phlegm that usually troubles it. 

Babes from one to six months old can safely be given two teaspoons of 
castor oil at a time when suffering with a cold. Mixing a teaspoon of Orleans 
molasses with it will prevent griping. 

A child ten months old, if choked with a bad cold, will be speedily re- 
lieved by taking three teaspoons of pure castor oil. Children are differently 
affected'by the oil, so it is safe to begin with one teaspoon of castor oil, and 
increase if needed. 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1109 



In scarlet fever, the first symptoms being like a severe cold, treat it in 
the same way ; keep the bowels open with castor oil, grease the throat, breast, 
and back with pig's feet oil, goose grease, lard, or smoked ham rinds, or the 
fryings of salt pork or bacon. Grease very thoroughly. If the throat is 
sore, chop salt fat pork and raw onions together like hash, put them in a 
sack, warm a little, and tie round the throat. Change this poultice when 
needed, but keep it on until the throat is entirely well. This poultice is 
much better than those made of hot water, as there is no danger of taking 
cold in changing it. 

To prevent catching contagious diseases, put a small lump each of cam- 
phor gum, brimstone and assafetida in a little sack, and tie around the body 
with a tape. 

An excellent cough remedy is made as follows. Take enough of hore- 
hound to fill a three pint cup, pour soft water over it until full, let it simmer 
until all the strength is extracted (keep the tin full) then strain; to three 
pints of this tea add a pint of pure whisky and enough of loaf sugar to make 
a syrup; dose, tablespoon half hour before eating, and the last thing before 
retiring. This dose is for an adult. For ten-year-old child, give half. 

A good remedy for colic is tincture of assafetida ; take a lump the size of 
a hulled walnut, cover it with an ounce of pure whiskey (in fourteen days it 
is tincture, but in a few days it will be strong enough to use ) Begin with 
one drop in sweetened water, if the child is very young, and increase as re- 
quired. Give this to the child an hour before the time for the colic to begin. 
If a child is given this, as it grows older, each morning a few drops it will 
not be troubled with worms. 

In croup, redden the throat and chest by ruooing with a mixture of one- 
half tablespoon each of camphor and turpentine and one tablespoon each of 
coal oil and sweet oil. Wet a warm flannel with this, and apply to the throat 
and neck for a few minutes, watching closely so as to remove it when the 
skin is well reddened. No time can be given, as some skins are more sensi- 
tive than others. This outward irritation tends to prevent croup. 

For worms in children (these do not appear until after the child begins 
to eat other food than its mother's milk), give one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
santonin mixed with a little sugar and a drop or two of water, once every 
three hours ; continue for six doses. Follow with a dose of castor oil to 
which has been added five drops of spirit of turpentine. The above is a dose 
for a child of one year old ; for older children, increase the dose somewhat. 
Pumpkin-seed tea is also a good remedy for worms, and entirely harmless. 
All remedies for worms must be taken on an empty stomach. 

Luckily for the rising generation, fashion recognizes the necessity for 
protection of the neck and arms of infants, and while the infant wears long 
slips the feet are fairly well protected in the summer, but if they seem in the 
least cold to the hand, soft woolen socks should be put on. When short 
clothes are put on, longer socks should take the place of the short ones. No 
pains should be spared to keep the legs and feet warm in both summer and 
winter. "Keep the feet warm and the head cool," is an old but wise max- 
im. If the opposite condition exists, look out for serious illness. In winter 
let the baby wear warmly lined shoes, chosen for comfort and not for show. 
The care of the extremities is very important, and the baby should never be 
allowed to go with cold hands. The baby creeping about, and the children 
playing on the floor, are exposed to all the drafts that enter through the crev- 
ices of the walls. The cold air immediately seeks the floor, and a grown 
person has only to lie down on the carpet in the vicinity of a window or door 
to be convinced of the source of many a cold and sore throat. Weather-strips 
in rooms where children play much, are useful ; in their absence, paste a strip 



1110 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

of paper across where the lower sash fits into the casing, and get ventilation 
by the upper sash. If doors swing inward, a heavy rug may be placed against 
it outside, or an old garment. Add to all these precautions warm clothing. 
AVhen children are large enough to play out of doors in cold weather, good 
woolen leggins should be worn. In rainy weather, the light gossamer rub- 
ber cloth, wRich may be bought by the yard and made at home, makes ex- 
cellent protection from wet, and yet is not a burden. If replaced by a woolen 
garment in dry weather, no harm may result. Every school-girl should have 
a circular cape of this material. Let no desire to have your children in fash- 
ion induce you to send them out with less clothing for the feet and legs than 
would be required to make a grown person comfortable. The scanty clothing 
of the lower limbs brings on repeated attacks of croup and various diseases 
of the throat and lungs. Not only is this true, but the low temperature and 
imperfect circulation of the blood prevents the development of the paits ex- 
posed and brings on a race of fashionable, but spindle-shanked children. 
Don't be deceived by the prevailing idea that children of the extremely poor, 
that are half cared for, and of parents who habitually neglect them, are 
"healthy." Among this very class Death makes the heaviest harvest ; and 
those who live are stunted by neglect in spite of the extra hardiness of con- 
stitution. Of course, to remove the ordinary clothing and substitute lighter 
for a party or a heated audience-room, is the height of imprudence. At the 
close of such an occasion, plenty of wraps should be provided against the 
exposure to the cold air when over heated. Young children had best wear 
flannel underclothing the whole year. When sudden changes take place to 
colder weather, see that the children have additional protection before they 
take cold. 

Long Clothes. — A proper dress for an infant, is a bandage of 
soft flannel, put on loosely about the body, a knit woolen siiirt, a piuning- 
blanket, made of a piece of soft white flannel, three-fourths of a yard square, 
and taken up about one fourth of a yard at the top by a single box-pleat, three 
inches wide, and caught together on the wrong side for about three inches 
from the top. On each side of the box-pleat make a small pleat, to be let 
out as the infant grows. The flannel should be bound with silk binding be- 
fore pleating, pinned on with safety pins next the flannel shirt : a waist with 
arm-holes but no sleeves, buttoned behind with one small flat button, and 
having on the bottom one button in front, one on each side, one in center of 
back, and one an inch and a half on each side of the last-named. The skirt 
is fastened to these buttons. The three buttons behind serve this purjiose. 
When child is small, each end is carried past the center button to the ones 
an inch and a half beyond it, but as the child grows and needs more room, 
the ends are brought together at the center button. The skirt is made of 
flannel, seven-eights of a yard long. The dress, which should be about one 
yard loiig, may be made of any white material. Add to this a pair of soft 
knit socks, and the dress is complete. A modest wardrobe should comprise • 
two knit shirts, three pinning-blankets, four bandages of difl'erent sizes, three 
flannel skirts, three waists, six muslin slips, six dresses of difl'erent patterns 
but about the same in regard to warmth, or better, of same material, checked 
or striped goods, and difterently trimmed, two finer dresses, which may be 
made a little longer for stjde, though the weight is objectionable as a burden 
to the child, two pairs of short socks, and as the child grows older, two pairs 
of knit boots, and two-dozen diapers (cotton are best, having more absorbing 
capacity than linen,) one yard long, and for the first, about five-eights of a 
yard wide. Fold the inside one once from end to end, and pin one side with 
safety pins to the flannel band, allowing it to hang down to protect the legs. 
When short dresses are put on, fold the outside diaper as directed above, 
and use one of lighter material, or an old thin one for the inside. Fold the 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 



1111 






latter, end to end once, and then once more in the 
same direction. The outside one is now in three-cor- 
nered Shane ; lay it down with point toward you, lay the 
other over it, as represented in diagram, and they are 
ready to put on. For night use. wear a bandage, a 
pinning blanket, and a flannel^ night dress, made with 
sleeves long enough to gather in with a string over the 
hands. Of course no garment should be worn at night 
that has been worn during the day. 

Short Clothes.— A warm suit for first short clothes of baby during first 
winter is as follows : A knit flannel shirt, a loose flannel bandage about 
the body, over the bowels (an excellent protection against summer com- 
plaints, if continued through the next 
summer), a skirt of opera flannel with 
a muslin waist, with two rows of but- 
tons (four in each row), about an inch 
apart, one to support the skirt and the 
other for the diaper drawers, which are 
made of the same flannel as the skirt. 
The accompanying cuts will explain 

clearly the manner in which these are made. This useful 
garment, either in flannel or muslin, may and should be worn 
from the time short clothes are put on until diapers are left 
off" or even longer. The cut on left hand of page gives the form of garment, 
when taken off". The one on the right, the same garment when put on and 
buttoned up. The dress should be of the same material, and color as the 
skirt and drawers, and cut in Gabrielle style, with long sleeves. Over this 
wear a white dress of Nainsook, made plain or elaborate, as may be desired. 
In summer, this suit of skirt, drawers, and dress, made in Silicia, with the 
overdress of white, is a safe and comfortable dress for a child, and not easily 
soiled. 

AUNT EVA'S way. 

This is the idea to start with— that we are dealing with little people. To 
be sure they are fearfully and wonderfully made, but only in the same sense 
as their parents. As many of these same parents do not understand the first 
principles of caring for themselves, M-e are obliged to begin at the beginning. 
It is important in the life of a child to begin right. The treatment many a 
babe receives during the first hours of its life causes it to be a puny, suff'er- 
ino' infant, giving it a constitution predisposed to disease. The first thing fs 
tolirotect the sensitive darling from exposure. There must be absolutely 
no exposure to chill. This is easily done by plenty of soft, warm flannels— 
a dozen pieces or more, some of which need be quite shawls. When needed, 
they must be full of fire warmth, full as they can hold, no matter if it is a 
warm Aut'ust night. When the child needs attention, make the physician 
take a large piece of this and cover it instantly. He can do his whole duty 
with the child well covered. Never use water for the first bath, but sweet 
oil- I prefer the oil of sweet cream, made by simmering cream in a shallow 
dish on the stove until the oil separates, to be applied with a soft piece of 
warm flannel. If care is used in removing the oil, you will be-surprised to 
see how sweet the little one looks ; on no account use wateron the child until 
it is well climatized, sav twentv-four to forty-eight hours. When the babe 
screams throu'^i its first toilet operation, it is either cold or frightened. De- 
sist at once, and fold it closelvin its warm wrappings, making sure that noth- 
ing- soiled or damp is touching it. Let the little head be cared for first, then 



1112 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

one arm, and so on, keeping the rest of the body carefully covered. After 
having the oil well applied, I would rather my child would lie a week with 
only its flannel wrappings than be dressed while screaming, but if you go 
right so far you will have no trouble. 

Its clothing can be any thing that is warm enough and loose enough. 
Don't pin it up as if it was to be used to play ball with, and was in danger 
of getting tumbled to pieces. It is not even to be handled much, but laid 
away to rest as long as it will, and kept still ; don't let some loving soul keep 
it swaying around. If it acts like waking up or is uneasy, pass your hands 
carefully under it, and gently turn it on its other side. 

Its food, first and only, at present is that w'hich God has so wisely pro- 
vided ; this is all that it needs, even if i^ gets but a few drops at a time. If it 
cannot be satisfied without worrying the mother too much, a little — a very 
little — fresh cow's milk can be used with pure sugar and one-third water- 
Always remember this — the milk of a "farrow cow" will kill a young lamb 
just as sure as it enters its stomacli. 

I do not think it wise to insist on regular feeding times for nursing in - 
fants, or as long as milk is the chief sustenance. There are many days when 
the healthiest of children are fretful. Their gums begin to swell younger 
than is generally supposed. There is nothing more soothing than — well, 
just let the little pet have its own way ; it will prove to you when it is most 
comfortable. A baby never cries when it is comfortable ; when it cries it 
asks for something ; put yourself in its place and maybe you can come near to 
the understanding. Many of its sufferings are caused by unwise changes in 
its clothing. You give it a slight cold by your own thoughtlessness ; then 
for heaven's sake don't give it some soothing syrup to weaken its digestion, 
and render it liable to be hurt by all food except the simplest. My oldest 
boy is a victim to soothing medicines. He must be so careful through water- 
melon and fruit season, or he will be sick all the time ; but four others, all 
past five years old, who never took as much as a cup of sage-tea, of medicine, 
can digest anything. My remedy for most of the ailments of children is fire 
warmth. 

For colic, unpin the little one's clothing so that the fire can shine clear 
to its arm-pits, warming your own hand and pressing it gently over the rest- 
less little squirmer. This will either prevent or cure almost any thing. If 
it seems very sick, its head hot, you must watch that ; I never knew a child 
to go into fits unless its head was hot and its hands and feet cold. In this 
case bathe the little feet in warm water ; and, if it is summer, get the leaves 
of horse-radish, or a plant of that nature, roll and wilt them, and bind on 
the soles of the feet and in the palms of the hands ; not to blister, only to 
keep moist and warm. If you cannot get the green leaves, ginger on 'wet 
warm cloths will do. Then keep the head wet, and keep every one from the 
room but the one whom the child wishes to take care of it. Give water or 
milk — whichever the child prefers ; or, if not weaned, let it nurse all it wish- 
es, no matter if it keeps throwing it up — that is nature's provision for nurs- 
ing babies. It is ready now to be soothed to sleep, and will generally waken 
with a gentle perspiration. When you think you must give some kind of 
warm tea, give pure warm water that has been boiled; it is the best hot drink 
for either mother or child in pain. 

My mother was once taken three miles on a cold winter's night to see a 
young infant that they feared was going into fits. It screamed and strug- 
gled and fought for breath, while its young mother, pale with fear, was walk- 
ing the house crying too. "Why," said mother, "the child has only got the 
'snufHes,' bring "me a little soft grease." She rubbed the nose gently until 
the child was partially relieved. Being quite a bad case, she advised the 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1113 

mother to milk a stream of breast-milk into the nostril ; she did so, the child 
sneezed three or four times and dropped asleep in two minutes. This is also 
all that is needed for weak or sore eyes in an infant — l^reast milk. 

For sore mouth, a weak solution of borax ; but your child will not have 
sore mouth or any other disease, if you follow these directions and your own 
good sense; and remember that soothing syrups are the lazy mother's cure. 
It is so much easier to put a child to sleep than to bathe it and warm it and 
nurse it well. 

For croup, take sweet hog's lard and tincture of camphor or camphor 
gum and simmer together a short time ; gum the size of a pea to a tablespoon 
of lard; keep it in the house prepared, and rub on the throat at first symp- 
tom. This will relieve any hard cough almost instantly ; if it does not, mix 
one teaspoon of it with a tablespoon of molasses, and take inwardly. If you 
are called to a child too bad — too far gone — for these simple remedies, put it 
in a warm bath as qu'ick as it can be prepared. 

For whooping-cough, encourage the child to eat sour fruits, either cooked 
or raw, or both, all it wishes This keeps the system cool, the bowels open, 
and the throat clear. 

In weaning your darling, be sure you have plenty of suitable food in the 
house that the baby is fond of. First teach baby to go to sleep without 
nursing ; after he has become accustomed to this, teach him to do without it 
during the day, and to go to sleep at bed-time ; then let him nurse all he 
wishes through the rest of the night, only being careful to leave the bed be- 
fore he awakens in the morning. Let him nurse this way for several weeks, 
that the change of living may not be too sudden. I have weaned three 
children in this way without a single crying spell and no one about the 
house knew about it. 

The family physician is a great blessing — more so than his medicine. 
Never fail to call him in time, if the disease proves stubborn ; but let him 
understand that you wish advice as to nursing, and not his medicine, un- 
less it is very necessaay. Most people think if a doctor leaves no drugs be- 
hind his visit is so much lost money ; doctors understand this, and leave 
medicine whether necessary or not. As your child conquers one trifling ail- 
ment after another and grows in health and beauty, you will gradually gain 
a confidence in nature that will be a great rock of defense for a parent of a 
growing family ; if you will obey her laws she will never disappoint you. 

The regular meals, so necessary to the health and comfort of a family, 
must be regular. If you insist on the children only eating at their meals, 
don't sit and sew, or visit, with hunger gnawing at their vitals, I think it 
safest to allow growing children to have a piece between meals, if they are 
hungry enough to eat dry, light bread ; no butter to grease things, or molas- 
ses or milk to tempt them to eat more than they need for necessary support. 
The only trouble, I find, is they soon get to be too fond of the crusts and 
"pudding pieces." 

The care of the feet is the great picket post after the child begins to run 
alone. Watch, watch the little feet that no damp or chill is creeping up to 
chill the vitals. A pair of warm stockings to each pair of restless feet must 
be kept by the stove in all damp or cold weather, and never let a child stop 
a moment its active play until you know whether its feet are warm and dry. 
You had better change feet- covering four or fi-"'e times a day during tliose 
delightful, treacherous spring days, than to watch a sick bed and loose your 
darling at last. This is what neglect of the feet often brings the little ones 
to. I know the task I am enjoining on mothers and nurses. I have had 
twenty-three pairs of stockings hanging around my cook-stove at once, each 



1114 SOMETITIXC ABOUT BABIE?. 



pair in daily use for exchanges. But I do not know Avliat it is to lose a child, 
or hardly a night's rest, and we have raised six from babyhood. Never let 
them go to bed without having their feet all aglow with warmth to their 
knees from the bright fire shining upon them. This is my hobby; fire- 
warmth. It will cure ear-ache, stomach-ache, head-ache, leg-ache ; pre- 
vent neuralgia, white-swellings, rheumatic pains, indigestion. Yes, I'm a 
"fire worshiper," and you will be after you have tried" its virtues on your- 
self and children faithfully for twenty years. 

In conclusion, my theory is incessant watchfulness of first symptoms — 
prevention rather than cure. But let no untried mother feel discouraged; 
the care of a babe is no trouble to a true mother. As often as it needs at- 
tention, so often do her eyes long for a sight of the sweet dimpled flesh, the 
dainty limbs ; the loving touch of the little hands upon her neck has more 
than mesmeric power. And after all is done for them, if they seem to you 
to be growing coarse and unlovely, smile upon them oftener, kiss them, caress 
them. Don't let the pressing duties of the younger ones lead you to neglect 
the older ones. If a child once learns to be without mother's caresses you 
can never again make them necessary to that child. 

Teething. — When first signs of teeth appear, salivary glands are so far 
developed that the secretion of saliva is large, and "drooling" is noticed. 
This saliva moistens the gums and softens them, so that the coming teeth 
make their way through with less difficulty. At this time an ivory, coral or 
hard rubber ring is useful. There is a sensation in the gums which the 
child tries to relieve by biting. Later, when the gum is inflamed and sore, 
a soft suostance is better than hard. If the gum is much swollen, and there 
are symptoms of thirst and fever and flushed cheeks, the child should be 
seen by a physician. There may be something more serious than teething. 
If the case is mild, soothing applications such as honey of roses, borax and 
honey, and syrup of gum arable will relieve. If bowels are constipated an 
injection may be given, or even a mild laxative, with a warm foot-bath at 
bed-time. Lancing of the gums is sometimes necessary, and is harmless and 
not painful if done skilfully and at the proper time. Rubbing the gums with 
a thimble is very harsh treatment. As children grow older teeth should be 
washed carefully and examined by a dentist at two years old or sometimes 
sooner, knew a case of teeth being temporarily filled at one. The good care 
taken of the first teeth greatly eff"ects the second set. After the first twentj' 
come, the next four are permanent and must be well cared for. The last four 
of the twenty should be well guarded in order to keep them till new teeth 
come, thus to preserve a good shaped mouth. 

Indigestion. — When a child falls ill, a good many charge it to "worms." 
The real cause of the trouble is generally indigestion, which causes an irl- 
creased secretion of mucus, and tliis makes a harbor for worms, which in 
themselves do not produce irritation, unless they exist in great numbers. 
Bottle-fed children oftener suff"er from indigestion than others. The indica- 
tions are pining, peevishness, constipation or diarrhea, a sour breath, etc. 
These may result from overfeeding or from unsuitable food. Overfeeding is 
most frequent. If the stomach is not able to digest the food it will irritate 
the bowels and produce diarrhea. The summer diarrhea of children begins 
with indigestion, which weakens the system, and makes it sensitive to hot 
weather. The proper color for passage from the bowels in infancy is yellow. 
In cases of indigestion the color is greenish, or, if yellow when passed, soou 
becomes green. In diarrhea they are offensive and greenish, or even a 
bright green. The point is to find out the cause of the trouble and con-ect 
it in the earlv stages of the disease. 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1115 

Where an infant sleeps, light and noise should be excluded. 

The daily increase in weight of a healthy infant is from a quarter to 
three-quarters of an ounce. 

Bathing ought not to be neglected for a single day. It ought to be re- 
garded as a sacred maternal duty. 

The hair should be kept short during infancy and childhood. No finer 
heads of hair are ever seen than those on girls whose hair has been cropped 
close, boy-fashion, until ten years old. 

No more dangerous humbug was ever taught than that malt liquoi's or 
wine was necessary or healthful for a nursing woman. 

Sugar should always be an addition to less palatable food, and never 
given alone. 

A strict observance of the laws of health will strengthen a good consti- 
tution and improve a bad one. 

Diarrhea in nursing children is always the result in a change in the 
composition of the milk, from whatever cause. 

The period of weaning should be fixed between twelve and fifteen 
months, beginning by ceasing to give the breast at night. 

Children should not sleep with sickly persons or with those of advanced 
age. 

A young child should not be awakened suddenly, nor by any rude mo- 
tion or loud noise. 

Pulling roughly, trotting, swinging from side to side, and all rude play 
of this sort does no good and may do great harm. 

A wise mother, 'who has a cheerful disposition herself and performs well 
her duties as nurse, will have no good reason to complain that her time is all 
occupied by day and her rest disturbed by night. 

A Young Mother writes : "I have a little boy seven years old, and a little 
girl of four. I have never had the trouble of some young mothers, simply 
because I was regular with them from their birth. They never slept with 
me but in a crib at the side of my bed. I had the crib lined so as to pre- 
vent a draught, and tucked their covers tightly over their feet and fastened 
them at the top with large safety pins to the pillow — then they can not throw 
them off to take cold. I never nursed my babies more than twice in the 
night and often but once ; they slept better being alone. In the morning I 
nursed baby, and once between breakfast and dinner, and again between 
• dinner and supper, also right after dinner was over, at regular hours every 
day. If they got hungry between times, they were fed bread and milk. 
After supper, the little ones were undressed, rubbed well, back and limbs, 
flannel nightgown put on, then nursed and put to bed, and they seldom awoke 
before twelve o'clock ; so I had the evening for reading and practicing. In 
the morning they were taken up, bathed in warm water, dressed, nursed, 
and given a nap of two hours. In the afternoon they were put to sleep at 
one o'clock, and they would sleep till three. I think no mother should nurse 
her baby after it is a year old ; it breaks the mother down and does baby no 
good. As my children grew out of babyhood I still kept tliem regular in 
their habits. They get up in the morning at seven o' Jock, wash, dress and 
eat breakfast, drinking milk instead of coffee, play p \ the morning and eat 
a hearty dinner. At one o'clock they are put in a bat , their night clothes 
put on, 'and put to bed. They sleep "till three or half o.ist, then are dressed 
cleanly. At half-past five they eat a light supper, ar 1 in summer time at 
eight, and in winter time at half-past six, are put to ;)ed. Two healthier 
children will be hard to find; they never eat between meals, unless it is an 



1116 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 



apple, and never want anything else, but eat heartily at the table. I think 
if some young mothers will try my plan they will say there is no need of 
half-sick and cross children, caused by eating at all hours and being up late 
at night." 

Milk For Babies. — The following is one mode of preparing the milk : Al- 
low one-third of a pint of new milk to stand for about twelve hours, remove 
the cream and add to it two-thirds of a pint of new milk, as fresh from the 
cow as possible. Into the one-third of a pint of blue milk left after the ab- 
straction of the cream, put a piece of rennet about one inch square. Set the 
vessel in warm water until the milk is fully curdled, an operation requiring 
from five to fifteen minutes, according to the activity of the rennet, which 
should be removed as soon as the curdling commences, and put into an egg 
cup for use on subsequent occasions, as it may be employed daily for a month 
or two. Break up the curd repeatedly, and carefully separate the whole of 
the whey, which should then be rapidly heated to boiling in a small tin pan 
placed over a spirit or gas lamp. During the heating a further quantity of 
casein, technically called 'fieetings', separates, and must be removed by 
straining through muslin. Now dissove 110 grains of powdered sugar of 
milk in the hot whey, and mix it with the two-thirds of a pint of new milk to 
which the cream from the other third of a pint was added as already de- 
scribed. The artificial milk should be used within twelve hours of its prep- 
aration, and it is almost needless to add that all the vessels employed in its 
manufacture and administration should be kept scrupulously clean. Where 
pure milk is used without the preparation above, give for first five days, two 
tablespoons cream to a gill of filtered soft water. After that, the following 
table of proportions and daily quantity have been given by a physician and 
may be of help to many : 

Table. 

Milk. Water. 

For a child from 5 to 10 days old lli gills. 33^ gills, 

10 to 20 daysold 1^ " 4^ " 

" " 20 to 30 davsold 2)1 " 6 " 

" " 1 to 1>^ months old 3 " 6^ " 

" 11^ to 2 months old 3J^ " 7 " 

" " 2 to 2i.< months old 4 " 7}4 •' 

" 2K to 3 ~ months old 4>^ " 7>| " 

" 3 " to 3>^ months old 5 " 7>| " 

" <' 3)^ to 4 months old 5K " 7}4 *' 

" " 4 to 4K months old 6 " 7}4 " • 

" " 4>^ to 5 months old 6}.i " 7^ " 

" " 5 to 6 months old 7 " 7 " 

" 6 to 7 months old 7 " 6% " 

" " 7 to 8 months old 8 " 6 " 

" 8 to 9 months old S^i " 6 " 

" " 9 to 10 months old 8^-^ " 6 " 

" " 10 toll months old 8^ " 6 " 

'< " 11 to 12 months old 9 " 6% " 

" " 12 to 15 months old 9 " 5)^ " 

" 15 to 18 months old 9^ " 5 " 

" 18 months onwards 10 " 5 " 

Hudden Checking of Prespiration. — A Boston merchant, in ''lending a 
hand," on board one of his own ships on a windy day, found himself, at the 
end of an hour and a half, pretty well exhausted and prespiring freely. He 
sat down to rest, and engaging in conversation, time passed faster than lie 



SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1117 

was aware. In attempting to rise he found he was unable to do so without 
assistance. He was taken home and put to bed, where he remained two 
years ; and for a long time after could only hobble about with the aid of a 
crutch. Less exposure than this have, in constitutions not so vigorous, re- 
sulted in inflammation of the lungs — "pneumonia" — ending in death in less 
than a week, or causing tedious rheumatisms, to be a source of torture for a 
lifetime. Multitudes of lives would be saved every year, and an incalcuable 
amount of human sufTering would be prevented if parents would begin to 
explain to their children, at the age of three or four years, the danger which 
attends cooling off' too quickly after exercise, and the importance of not 
standing still after exercise, or work, or play, or of remaining exposed to the 
wind, or of sitting at an open window or door, or of pulling off any garment, 
even the hat or bonnet while heated. 

The following rules for the management of infants during the hot season 
are from Dr. Wilson's '"Summer and Its Diseases": 

Rule 1. — Bathe the child once a day in tepid water. If feeble, sponge 
all over twice a day with tepid water, or tepid water and vinegar. 

Rule 2. — Avoid all tight bandaging. Make clothing light and cool, 
and so loose that the limbs may have free play. At night undress, 
sponge, and put on a slip. In the morning remove slip, bathe, and dress in 
clean clothes if it can be aff'orded ; if not, thoroughly air clothing by hanging 
it up during the night. Use clean diapers, and change often. 

Rule S. — Let the child sleep by itself in a cot or cradle. Put to bed at 
regular hours, and teach to go to sleep without being nursed in the arms. 
Give no cordial, soothing syrup, or sleeping drops without the advice of a physi- 
cian. They kill thousands of children every year. If the child frets itis hungry 
or ill. Never quiet a child by candy or cake. They are common causes of 
diarrhea and other troubles. 

Rule 4- — Give the child plenty of fresh air. Give it plenty of pure cold 
water. Keep it out of room? where cooking or washing is going on. Exces- 
sive heat kills children. 

Rule 5. — Keep the house sweet and clean, cool and well aired. In hot 
weather leave windows open day and night. Cook in the yard, in a shed, or 
in the garret. Whitewash walls every spring, and keep cellar free of rub- 
bish. Let no slops collect. Disinfect privies and sinks by a solution of 
copperas, and get your neighbors to clean up. 

Rule 6. — If the supply of breast-milk is ample, and the child thrives 
give no other food in hot weather. If the supply is short give goat's or 
cow's milk in addition. Nurse once in two or three hours by day, and as 
seldom as possible at night. Remove child from breast as soon as it falls 
asleep, and never give the breast when overheated or fatigued. 

Rule 7. — If brought up by hand, give goat's milk, or cow's milk, and use 
no other food while hot weather lasts. For an infant that has not cut its 
iront teeth, no substitute for milk is safe. Creeping children must not be 
allowed to pick up unwholesome food. 

Rule 8. — If milk is pure add one-third hot water to it until child is three 
months old ; afterwards gradually lessen the water. Sweeten each pint with 
a heaping dessert-spoonful of sugar of milk, or a teaspoon crushed sugar. 
When very hot weather give milk cold.. It must be unskimmed and as fresh 
as possible, and brought very early in the morning. Scald pans to be used 
with boiling suds. In very hot weather boil milk as soon as it comes, and 
remove to the coolest place in the house upon ice or down in a well. In a 
warm room it soon spoils. 



1118 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 

Rule 9. — If the milk disagrees add a tablespoon of lime water to each 
bottleful. If pure milk can not be had, try condensed milk, sold by all gro- 
cers. Prepare by adding to six tablespoons boiling water, without sugar, 
one tablespoon or more of the milk, according to age of child. Il this dis- 
agrees, a teaspoon of arrowroot, sago, or cornstarch may be added to a 
pint oi milk, as prepared under Rule 8, and cautiously tried. If milk can 
not be digested try, for a few days, pure cream, diluted with three-fourths 
to four-fifths water, returning to milk as soon as possible. 

Rale to. — The nursing bottle must be krpt perfecth/ clean, otherwise the 
milk will turn sour, and the child will be made ill. Empty after each meal, 
rinse first with cold water, take apart, and place nipple and bottle in clean 
water, to which a little soda has been added. It is better to have two bottles 
and use them by turns. The plain bottle with rubber nipple is better than 
the tube, which is difficult to keep clean. 

Rule It — Do not wean a child just before or during hot weather ; nor as a 
rule, until after its second summer. If sucking disagrees with the mother 
she must not wean the child, but feed it in part from the nursing bottle as 
directed. However small the supply of breast milk, the mother should keep 
it up against sickness. It ivill often save the lije of a child when everything else 
fails When over six months old the mother may save her strength by giv- 
ing it one or two meals a day of stale bread and milk, which should be press- 
ed through a sieve, and put into a nursing bottle. When from eight months 
to a year old, it may have also one meal a day of the yolk of a fresh, rare 
boiled egg, or one of beef or mutton broth, into which stale bread has been 
crumbled When oldei it can have a little meat, finely minced; but even 
then milk should be its principal food, and not what grown people eat. 

Rule 12. — If a child is suddenly taken with vomiting, and purging, and 
prostration, send for the doctor at once. Meantime, put the child for a few 
minutes in a hot bath, then carefully wipe dry with a warm towel, and wraj) 
in warm blankets. If hands and feet are cold, apply bottles filled with hot 
watei wrapped in flannel. Place a mush poultice or flaxseed poultice to which 
one qnartei' part of mustard flour has been added, or flannels wrung out of 
hot vinegar and water, over the bowels. Give every fifteenminutes, five drops 
brandy in a teaspoonful of water; if vomiting continues, give the brandy in 
the same quantity of milk and lime water. If the diarrhcBa has just begun, 
or if caused by improper food, give a teaspoonful of castor-oil, or spiced syrup 
of rhubarb. If the child has been fed partially on breast-milk, mother's 
miJk alone must be used now. If weaned, dilute pure milk with lime-water, 
or give weak beef tea or chicken water. Let child drink cold water freely. 
Remove soiled diapers at once from the room but save for the examination 
of the physician. The giving of an injection of a teaspoon or two of ice-cold 
water after each passage is of great benefit. 



HINTS FOR THK WELL. 



111^ 



HINTS FOR THE WELL. 



Cleanliness is next to godliness. 

Always rest before and after a hearty meal. 

Do not eat too much. Do not eat late at night. 

Food, especially bread, should never be eaten hot. 

Children should never be dressed in tight clothes. 

Never sit in a damp or chilly room without a fire. 

Supper just before going to bed is highly injurious. If hungry, a bit of 
bread or cracker will check the craving without spoiling sleep. 

Never enter a room where a person is sick with an infectious disease with 
an empty stomach. 

When really sick, send for a good physician ; and as you value your health 
and life, have nothing to do with quacks and patent medicines. 

The condiments, pepper, ginger, etc., are less injurious in summer. Fat 
beef, bacon, and hearty food may be eaten more freely in winter. 

Most people drink too much and too fast. A small quantity of water sip- 
l)ed slowly satisfies thirst as well as a pailful swallowed at a draught. 

Let the amount of the meal bear some relation to future needs as well 
as present appetite ; but it is better to carry an extra pound in vour pocket 
than in your stomach. 

A small quantity of plain nourishing soup is a wholesome first course at 
dinner. Rich soups are injurious to persons of weak digestion, and a large 
quantity of liquid food is not beneficial to adults. 

A famous caterer adds half teaspoon chicken pepsin to each pint mayon- 
naise dressing for chicken salad, and claims one can eat thereof late at night 
and yet have pleasant dreams. 

Three full meals daily are customary but the number, the relative quan- 
tity and quality, and the intervals between them, are largely matters of 
opinion, habit and convenience ; regularity is the important thing. 

Exercise before breakfast should be very light , and it is better to take a 
cracker or some trifle before going out, especially in a miasmatic climate. 
Early breakfasts are a necessity to the young and growing. 

Sponge ofT your neck, throat and chest in cold water every morning, dry 
quickly with a soft towel, then rub with a rough one ; do not be more than a 
minute about it , and a sore throat will rarely trouble you. A towel may be 
roughened by dipping in strong brine, then drying. 



1120 HINTS FOR THE AVELL. 



Eemember that when the stomach is sour after eating, the food is actu- 
ally rotting — that is a nauseating word but it expresses the absolute fact in 
the case — and it means that some of the rules given have been violated. 

Eat in pure air and in pleasant company ; light conversation and gentle 
exercise promotes digestion, but hard work of any kind retards it. Avoid se- 
vere bodily or mental labor just before and for two hours after a full meal. 

Drinks at meals should be taken at the close, and not too strong or hot. 
Dyspeptics especially should drink sparingly. Children need more than 
adults, but too much is injurious. • 

Masticate well ; five minutes more at dinner may give you better use of 
an hour afterward. At meals never drink a full glass of very hot or very cold 
liquid. Never wash down a mouthful. Avoid waste of saliva. 

Adults need to eat at regular intervals two or three times a day, allowing 
time for each meal to be fully digested before another is taken. It would 
spoil a loaf of bread, half baked, to poke a lump of cold dough into the mid- 
dle of it. 

Avoid colds and break up as soon as possible when taken. As soon as 
conscious that the pores are closed, keep warm within doors, drink warm 
ginger tea, relax the bowels, and take a vapor bath. Breaking a cold up 
early, often saves a severe attack of congestion, pneumonia, often even a fever. 

Avoid tobacco, alcohol in all forms, and all stimulants. Every healthy 
man is better, stronger, has a clearer head, more endurance, and better 
'diances for a long life, if fiee from the habitual use of stimulants. The boy 
who begins the use of tobacco or liquors early is physically ruined. 

When too many oysters have been incautiously eaten, and are felt lying 
cold and heavy on the stomach, there is an infallible remedy in hot milk, of 
which half a pint may be drank, and it will quickly dissolve the oysters into 
a bland, creamy jelly. Weak and dyspeptic persons should always take hot 
milk after meals of oysters. 

Use good palatable food, not highly seasoned, vary in quantity and quals 
ity according to age, climate, weather and occupation. Unbolted and par. 
tially bolted grains are good and sufficient food for men ; but nature crave- 
variety. As a rule, the flesh of meat-eating animals is not wholesome food- 
Hot soft bread digests slowly. 

Don't eat too fast ; the digestive organs are something like a stove, which 
if choked up and out of order, burns slowly, and if you keep piling in fuel, 
grows more and more choked. The wiser course is to let it burn down and 
put in fuel only when needed. It is a foolish notion that food always keeps 
np the strength. Only what we digest helps us ; all beyond that is a tax up- 
on the system, and exhausts the strength instead of increasing it. 

Panaceas are prima facie humbugs ; their makers and takers, their ven- 
ders and recommenders are knaves or fools, or both. Nature cures most dis- 
eases, if let alone or aided by diet and proper care. There are no miracles in 
medicine ; remember that to keep or to get health generally requires only a 
recognition of Nature's powers, with knowledge of anatomy and physiology, 
experience and common sense. 

Never sleep in clothing worn during the day, and let that worn at night 
be exposed to the air by day. Three pints of moisture, filled with the waste 
of the body, are given off every twenty-four hours, and mostly absorbed by 
clothing. Exposure to air and sunlight purifies the clothing and bedding of 
the Doisons which nature is trying to get rid of, and which would otherwise 
be brouoht again in contact with the bodv. 



HINTS FOR THE WELL. 1121 



Flannel underwear should reach from throat to wrists and ankles in 
winter. Why should the legs of children be left with less protection from 
the cold than the rest of the body? They should be loose and easy in every 
part with a lo wance for shrinkage and growth. The legs should slope by both 
outside and mside seams, from the calf of the leg down. Leave them open 
a few inches at the bottom of the inner seam, that they mav be folded smooth- 
ly under the stocking. 

Ventilation cannot be accomplished by simply letting the pure air in ; 
the bad air must be let out. Open a window at top and bottom, hold a light- 
ed candle in the draft, and see the flame turn outward at the top and inward 
at the bottom, showing the purifying currents. Windows on opposide sides 
ot the room ventilate still more perfectly. In sleeping rooms avoid "drafts" 
when possible, but danger of taking cold from them may be averted by extra 
clothing. In living-rooms, an open fire-place or grate insures ventilation. 

It should be remembered that the use of chloride of lime, and other fu- 
migators, does not destroy filthiness, but only renders it less evident. Clean- 
liness, fresh air, and sunlight will purify. Cleanliness is a very strong word. 
Carpets filled with dust or grease, dirty furniture, or walls covered with old 
paper, defile the atmosphere as much as a refuse heap in the cellar or back 
yard. A dark house is generally unwholesome and dirty. The sunlight is 
second only in importance to fresh air. To convince one that light purifies, 
It is only necessary to go into a darkened room and not the corrupt smell. 

The lungs should be trained to free, full, and vigorous action "The 
breath is the life." A man will exist for days without food, but when the 
breath is cut off life ceases. If breathing is imperfect, all the functions of 
the body work at a disadvantage. It is a common fault to breathe from the 
surface of the lungs only, not bringing into play the abdominal muscles, and 
so not filling the more remote air-cells of the kings. By this defactive action 
the system is deprived of a part oi its supply of air, and by inaction the air- 
cells become diseased. 

Evacuate the bowels daily, and, above all, regularly; the best time is 
after breakfast ; partly to be rid of a physical burden during the day, but 
chiefly to relieve the boweis. Constipation is safer than diarrhrea. For the 
former, exercise, ride horseback, knead the belly, take a glass of cool water 
before breakfast, eat fruit and laxative food ; for the latter, follow an opposite 
course — toast, crusts, crackers and rice are the best food. Pain and uneasi- 
ness of digestive organs are signs of disturbance ; .keep a clear conscience ; 
rest, sleep, eat properly; avoid strong medicines in ordinary cases. 

Keep the person scrupulously clean ; change the clothing worn next to 
the skin (which should be flannel) often. Don't economize in washing bills. 
A cold bath every morning for very vigorous persons, or once or twice a week 
and thorough rubbing with a coarse towel or flesh brush, mornings when 
bath is not taken, for the less robust, is necessary to keep the functions of 
the skin in health, and is very invigorating. After warm baths a dash of 
cold water will prevent chill and "taking cold." In bathing in winter, the 
shock from cold water is lessened by standing a minute in the cold air after 
the removal of clothing before applying water. 

In the winter there is great necessity of dressing to keep the body warm 
by preserving its natural heat. The color as well a's the texture of under- 
wear is a matter of consequence. Of all the different materials of which it 
is made, scientific researches, as well as practical expei'ience and experi- 
ments, show very clearly that wool is the best material for warmth, silk 
coming next in the list, cotton next and linen last. The neglect to wear warm 
woolen undergarments is a very common cause of the ill-health of women 
and children. 



1122 HINT? FOR THE WELL. 



The use of close stoves, and close rooms, are the causes of the increased 
l)revalence and fatality, in winter, of small pox, scarlet fever and other con- 
tagious diseases. 

Colds are often, if not generally, the result of dehility,and are preceded 
hy disordered digestion. Such cases are prevented b,y a removal of the c; .use 
])y diet and pure air. Extreme cold or heat, and sudden exposure to cold l)y 
passing from a heated room to cold outside air, is very injurious to the old 
or weak. All such should avoid great extremes and smlden changes. In 
passing from heated assemblies to the cold air, the mouth should be kept 
closed, and the breathing done through the nostrils only, so that the cold air 
may be warmed before reaching the lungs, which have just been immersed 
in a hot-air bath. The injurious effect of such sudden changes is caused by 
ilriving the blood from the surface to the internal organs, producing con- 
gestion. 

An intelligent physician says : "It is a good rule always to ride up in an 
elevator, and when coming down to take the stairs. Like goingup hill, walk- 
ing up stairs is hard work, and sometimes risk}', especially for people with 
weak lungs, defective respiratory^ organs, or heart disease. But going down 
stairs hurts nobody, but is good exercise ; going down on a brisk run is really 
a good thing — it shakes up the anatomy, without incuring the danger of phys- 
ical over exertion. This shaking up is good for one's internal mechanism, 
which it accelerates, especially the liver, the kidneys, and the blood circu- 
lation." 

Bad smells mean that decay is going on somewhere. Rotten particles 
are floating in the air, and penetrating the nostrils and lungs. Their offen- 
siveness means that they are poison, and will produce sickness and death, or 
so reduce the tone of the system that ordinarilj^ mild disorders will prove 
fatal. In all such cases remove the cause when possible. Many of these 
poisons are given off by the body, and are removed by pure air, as dirt is 
washed away by water. Soiled or foul air can not purify any more than dirty 
wjtter will- clean dirty clothes. Pure air enters the lungs, becomes charged 
with waste particles, which are poison if taken back again. An adult spoils 
one gallon of pure air erery mhmti', or twenty-five flour barrelfuls in a single 
night, in breathing alone. A lighted gas-burner consumes eleven gallons, 
and an ordinary stove twenty-five gallons a minute. Think of these facts be- 
fore sealing up the fire-place, or nailing down the windows for winter. 

Let the sunshine into every room in the house. The sunlight is a great 
purifier. Keep the cellar not only clean and sweet, but give it fresh air and 
good ventilation, or it will poison the rest of the house. 

If one is accustomed to sleeping with windows open, there is no danger of 
taking cold from the exposure, winter or summer. People who shut up 
windows to keep out "night air," make a mistake. At night, the only air to 
breathe is "night air. " A bed that has been made up for a week or longer is 
not fit to sleep in. It has gathered moisture and should be aired. When 
lixed wash-bowls stand in sleeping-rooms, the waste pipe should be carefully 
closed, as sewer gases^often escape through them into the room. 

]\Iany of the colds'which people are said to catch, commence at the feet. 
To keep these extremities warm, therefore, is to effect an insurance against 
Ihe almost interminable list of disorders which spring out of a "slight cold." 
iMi-st, never be tightly shod. Boots and shoes when they fit closely, press 
against the foot and prevent a free circulation of the blood. When, on the 
contrary, they do not embrace the foot too tightly the blood gets fair play, 
and the' places left between the leather :ind the stockings are filled with a 
comfortable supply of warm air. The second rule is, never to sit hi dam)) 
shoes. It is often imagined that unless they are positively wet it is not 
neceesarv to change them while the feet are at rest. This is a fallacy ; lor 



HINTS FOR THE WELL. 1123 



wlieii the least dampness is absorbed in the sole, it is attracted nearer to the 
foot itself by its own heat, and thus perspiration is dangerously checked. 
Any person may prove this, by trying the experiment of neglecting this rule, 
and his feet will become cold and damp after a few moments, although, tak- 
ing off the shoe and warming it, it will appear quite dry. 

Remember that there is no patent meilicine or "patent pad," warranted 
to "cure by absorption," that will absorb disease half as rapidly as a wet 
towel wrapped around the body, and covered with a dry flannel. If people 
were required to pay $10 each for this "valuable secret" there would be no 
difficulty in getting millions of testimonials to its efficacy. It is too cheap to 
be popular with people who liked to be humbugged ; but when humbugs all 
fail, try hot and cold water. 

Oiie of the most prominent writers on health topics says: "The great 
practical lesson which I wish to inculate, to be engraven as on a i)late of 
steel, on the memory of children and youth, young men and women, the 
mature and the. gray-headed : Allow no'thiny short of fire or endangered life (<> 
induce you to resist, for one single moment, nature'' s alrine call. 80 far from 
refusing a call for any reason short of life and death, you should go at the 
usual time and solicit, and doing so you will have your reward in a degree of 
healthfulness, and in a length of life, whic-h very few are ever permitted to 
enjoy. If the love of health and life, or the fear of inducing painful disease 
can not induce you to adopt the plan I liave recommended, there is another 
argument which, to young gentlemen and young ladies, may appear more 
convincing — personal cleanliness. [If you sufl'er yourself to become and re- 
main costive you will smell badly ; the breath of a costive child even is 
scarcely to be endured.] Cold feet, sick headache, piles, fistulas, these, with 
scores of other diseases, have their first foundations laid in constipation, 
which itself is infallibly induced by resisting nature's first calls. Reader, 
let it be your wisdom never to do it again." 

A Dyspeptic's Fight fok Life. 

.ludge W. was a dyspeptic, for five weary years. He tried travel, but 
neither the keen air of the sea-shore nor the bracing breezes of the Northern 
prairies brought him relief. He tried all the panaceas and all the doctors 
at home and abroad in vain. Some told him that he had heart-disease, others 
thought it was inflammation of the spleen, gout, Bright's disease, liver com- 
plaint, lung difliculty or softening of the brain. Bottle after bottle of nos- 
trums went down the unfortunate man's throat, and it was only when phys- 
icians and friends gave him up, and pronounced him to all intents a dead 
man, that he threw bottles, plasters, powders and pills to the four winds, 
and, with the energy of despair, set about disappointing his doctors, and 
getting ready to live despite their ghastly predictions. Tlien begin a fight 
for life against dyspepsia, a fight which many have begun, but few have 
won. He bathed the whole l)ody every morning in cold water, summer and 
winter, not by a shower or a plunge, but by vigorously dashing the water on 
the body with the hands, and afterwards rubbing briskly with a coarse 
towel. This was continued without missing a single morning for years. In 
the meantime the strictest diet was instituted. By experimenting the patient 
found what he could eat without harm, and ate that only in very small 
(|uantities, measuring his food on his plate before beginning his meal, and 
limiting himself rigidly to that quantity. His principal food for nearly tliree 
years was cracked wheat and Graham mush, and the last meal was taken at 
two o'clock in the afternoon — not a particle of food passed his lips from that 
time until the next morning, thus giving the stomach complete rest and time 
to begin the work of recuperation. Special attention was given to eating 
slowly and thoroughly masticating the food ; and not to eat too much, too 



1121 IIIXTS FOK THE WELL. 



fast, or too often, were rules strictly and rigidly observed. Bathing, diet, 
rest, sleep, and gentle exercise in the open air did the work. It was a dread- 
ful conflict — days of struggle and temjitation, requiring more heroism and 
steady tenacity of purpose than would nerve a soldier for battle, for such a 
battle is for the day, but this fight was renewed every morning and contin- 
ued every day for months and years. But patience, courage, intelligent 
judgement, and a strict adherence to the above regimen won the day with- 
out a grain or a drop of medicine, and Judge W. believes that the good Lord 
of us all has never permitted any man to discover or invent medicine that 
will cure dyspepsia. Nature is the only pei-fect physician. Cold water, 
fresh air, the natural grain (wheat), sleep, rest, and gentle exercise, make 
up the grand panacea. With these alone, and the self-denial and moral 
courage to persist in the good fight, the confirmed, nervous, miserable dys- 
peptic, became a well, strong and hearty man — in five days? No. In five 
months ? No. In five years ? Yes ; and after the fight when contemplating 
the victory won, he could say with the model philanthroptiist, Amos Law- 
rence, after his battle of fifteen long years with the same disease, "If men 
only knew how sweet the victory is, they would not hesitate a moment to 
engage in the conflict." 

There are certain articles of diet that must be discarded by all persons 
who have a weak digestion and certain dietetic rules which must be con- 
formed to by all. To the most important of these we will now call attention : 
Eat slowly, masticating the -food very thoroughlj^ even more so, if possible 
than is required in health. The more time the food spends in the mouth the 
less it will spend in the stomach. Avoid drinking at meals, at most take a 
few sips of warm water at the close of the meal, if the food is very dry in 
character. In general, dyspeptic stomachs manage dr}' fruit better than 
that containing much liquid. Eat neither very hot or cold food. The best 
temperature, about that of the body. Avoid exposure to cold after eating. 
Be careful to avoid excess in eating. Eat no more than the wants of the 
system requires. Sometimes less than is really needed must be taken when 
digestion is very weak. Strength depends not on what is eaten, but what is 
digested. 

Never take violent exercise of any sort, either mental or physical, either 
just before or just after a meal. It is not good to sleep immediately after 
eating, nor within four hours of a meal. Never eat more than three times a 
day, and make the last meal very light. For many dyspeptics two meals are 
better than more. Never eat a morsel of anything between meals. Never 
eat when tired, whether exhausted from mental or physicial labor. Never 
eat when the mind is worried or the temper ruffled, if jiossible to avoid do- 
ing so. Eat only food that is easy of digestion, avoiding complicated and in- 
digestible dishes, and taking but one to three kinds at a meal. Most per- 
sons will be benefitted by the use of oat-meal, wheat-meal or graham flour, 
cracked wheat and other whole-grain preparations, though many will find it 
necessary to avoid vegetables, especially when fruits and meats were taken. 
The flesh of wild game is usually more easy of digestion than that of domes- 
tic animals, and is less likely to be diseased. Fats are injurious to dyspep- 
tics almost without exception. If eaten at all, butter is the only form ad- 
niissible, and this should never be eaten cooked, but cold on bread. Broil- 
ing is the best mode of cooking meat. ''High" meat should never be eaten 
as it has begun to decay. Meat and vegetables do not agree well together. 
Fruit and vegetables often disagree. Some cases must be required to dis- 
card vegetables altogether. Milk does not agree well with either vegetables 
or-fruits. Milk is easier of digestion when boiled than when in its natural 
state. Warm food is easier of digestion than cold, with the exception of fer- 
mented bread, which should be eaten stale. Cold meat and meat that has 
"been warmed over" are not easy of digestion. 



HINTS FOR THE' WELL. 112;" 



Popular Errors In Diet. — An eminent physician has prepared this article 
giving the following errors : It is an error to suppose that the appetite is 
always a correct criterion of the quantity and quality of food. This is a 
widely prevalent error and some very distinguished physicians have given 
it countenance and endorsement by saying to patients, when asked for a diet 
prescription, "Eat whatever and whenever you have a mind to." No ad- 
vice could be more mischievous. It virtually assumes either that there is 
no relation between diet and health that it makes no ditference what a per- 
son eats, or that the appetite is an infallible guide, both of which supposi- 
tions are palpably false. If all appetites were natural appetites, if there 
were no such thing as depraved taste, then might the appetite be relied upon, 
but in the present state of things among civilized human beings scarcely one 
person in a hundred has a perfectly normal taste and appetite, if the number 
be not even smaller. The appetite is to some degree a guide, but it must be 
controlled and governed by common sense, by a knowledge of the laws of 
digestion and the relation of elementary substances to the stomach and the 
system. Either extreme on this point is bad. The appetite must not be 
ignored and it must not be blindly followed unless it is known to be normal 
in its inclinations. It would be just as proper to advise a person to speak 
anything that comes into his mind, to do everything for which he has an in- 
clination, and to thus foUoAV implicitly all the promptings of his various 
organs, as to tell him to eat everything which he feels disposed to. 

It is an error to suppose that sick persons whose appetites are poor, 
should be tempted to eat by means of tidbits and dainties. Nothing is more 
common than for them to be besieged with such unwholesome substances as 
preserves, rich jellies and sauces, pies, cakes, confectionery, etc. About as 
soon as a person is taken sick, in some communities, the neighbors begin to 
show their sympathy by contributions of all sorts of unwholesome and in- 
digestible viands, and the invalid, whose stomach may be unable to digest 
any but the very simplest food, beeomes a victim to the kindness of friends. 
Many times have the best efforts of the intelligent physician been baffled in 
this manner. "Killed by kindness" of this soi-t might be written on many a 
tombstone. The general belief that these things are essential for the sick 
when confessedly bad for the well is forcibly illustrated by the story con- 
cerning the old gentleman who arrived home late at night and not finding 
any pie in the cupboard awoke his wife with the exclamation, "Why, what 
would you do if anyone should be sick in the night!" Every physician 
ought to look carefully after this matter whenever he has a patient in'charge 
and the absurdity of the custom should be thoroughly exposed. The want 
of appetite in sick people, especially fever patients is usually an indication 
that the stomach is not in a condition to digest food if it is received, and 
only the most digestible should be given, and that in small quantities. 

It is an error to suppose that children especially, need large quantities 
of fat and sugar. The opinion has been gaining of late, that fat and sugar 
are preventitives of consumption when fed to children so as to increase their 
fat. From some considerable observation on the subject, we are decidedly 
of the opinion that the practice is a bad one and the theory upon which it is 
based wholly erroneous. These substances are themselves difficult of di- 
gestion (this is especially true of fat) and hinder the digestion of food, thus 
producing dyspepsia which causes decay of the teeth and doubtless an equally 
marked deterioration in other parts of the system. The notion that the ap- 
petite for sugar is a natural one is shown to be false by the fact stated by 
Dr. Anthony Carlisle, the Artie traveler. According to Mr. Carlisle, the lit- 
tle folks in the vicinity of the North Pole are not fond of sweets. He says 
that when sugar was placed in their mouths they made very wry faces and 
sputtered it out with disgust. There is no evidence whatever that it "pre- 



1126 HINTS FOK THE WELL. 



serves the teeth," "aids digestion," "promotes growth" or "prevents con- 
sumption," as many persons believe. 

It is an error to suppose that many varieties of food are essential to 
good digestive nutrition. The common sense of most people who suffer with 
weak digestion has taught them that one or two kinds of food at a meal are 
more easily digested than a large variety, notwithstanding the erroneous 
teaching of some popular authors on this subject. It is true that the appe- 
tite sometimes refuses food when its use is long continued without change, 
but the variety should be obtained by employing different foods or dishes at 
different meals rather than at the same meal. There is no doubt that dys- 
pepsia is not unfrequently the result of the indiscriminate gormandizing in 
which people indulge whose chief aim in eating is to satisfy tlie palate. 

It is a very great error to suppose that brain-workers, students, clergy- 
men, lawyers and other persons whose vocation is largely sedentary, require 
but little food. The very opposite is true. A brain worker uses upas much 
l)lood in three hours of intense labor as the muscle worker in ten hours of 
ordinary toil. Brain workers should be well fed, but they must not be over- 
fed. Many of the cases of apoplexy in professional men, set down to over- 
work, are really attributable to overeating. A brain worker needs as much 
food and as nutritious food as a muscle worker, but he is compelled to be 
more careful in its selection, and cannot exceed with impunity the limits of 
his actual needs. This point is often neglected with reference to school- 
children, especially girls, who are not unfrequently allowed to make the at- 
tempt to live and study hard on a slice or tAvo of wheat bread and a cup of 
coffee for breakfast, bread and butter and pickles for dinner and a morsel 
chiefly made up of "dessert" at night, when dinner is taken at six, as in 
many of the large cities. In many female boarding schools the dietary is 
neglected, an insufficient amount of nourishing elements being furnished to 
support the vigorous mental effort required of students. Under such a regi- 
me it is no wonder that many young women break down just when they 
nught to be enjoying the highest degree of health and strength. AVe arc 
thoroughly convinced that a much larger share of the breakdowns among 
f^tudents, both male and female, is due to poor feeding more than to overstudy. 

It is an error to suppose that fish or any other single article of diet is 
brain food, muscle food, or food for any particular part of the system. A few 
years ago a celebrated scientist made the casual suggestion that perhaps fish 
ifood might be especially nourishing to the brain, as there was considerable 
phosphorous in the brain and also in the fish. The notion spread like a her- 
esy, and soon fish of all sorts, big and little, scaly fish, shell fish, and fish 
with neither scales nor shell, were devoured in unprecedented quantities by 
microcephalous people and people whose brains were not obviously too small, 
for the purpose of obtaining the supposed specific effects of a fish diet. A 
gentleman eager to cultivate his brain and induce an increased growth, ad- 
dressed a letter to a noted wag, asking for advice respecting the quantity of 
tish which he must eat per day. The answer he received was a fitting criti- 
cism on the theory and undoubtedly discouraged the aspirations of the young 
man, being to the effect tnat a small whale would be about the right quantity 
for a meal . The falsity of the theory has been repeatedly shown by the 
citation of the fact that the lowest of human races are those that live almost 
exclusively upon lish. In civilized countries, also, as in the vicinity of large 
fisheries, whole communities often make fish their almost exclusive diet, and 
yet there is no evidence that their mental capacity is increased thereby. In 
fact, the low mental and moral status of these people would furnish an argu- 
ment on the opposide side of the (juestion if it were necessary to offer such 
an argument. 



HINTS lOR TTfK WET.i.. 1 1 27 



It is an error to suppose that people suffering with nervous debilit}% nau- 
rasthenia or other forms of nervous weakness, need large quantities of tiesh 
food. It is a very common custom when it is decided that a person has any 
form of nervous disorder accompanied by weakness or impaired nutrition, U> 
l)lace them at once on a diet consisting largely of flesh, as beefsteak, mutton- 
chops, etc. Sometimes the drinking of blood is recommended. That this 
indiscriminate practice is a bad one we have often had occasion to notice. It 
not infrequently happens that the excessive use of flesh food is a cause of 
nervousness, as has been repeatedly pointed out, and we believe that whether 
its use is advised or not, its use should depend on the condition of the stom- 
ach rather than on the nerves. A person whose stomach is very feeble may 
be enable to digest sufficient vegetable food to replenish the tissues, for such 
persons a flesh diet or a mixed diet will be found to be very advantageous. 

It is .a most erroneous notion that ''rich food" is strengthening. The 
strengthening quality of food depends first upon its digestibility, and second 
upon the proportion ot albuminous elements which it coiitains. Sugar, fat, 
spices and other ingredients which are added to food in making it "rich" are 
of only secondary importance as nutritive elements and in the case of condi- 
ments of exceedingly doubtful value, if not wholly worthless. In the inanner 
in which these substances are combined in "rich food" they are worse than 
worthless. Really rich food is that which contains a large proportion of the 
essential elements of food in a condition to be easily assimilated. Graham 
V)read, oatmeal mush, pea-soup, baked beans and kindred foods, are really 
rich, and in the highest degree strengthening. 

It is an error to suppose that persons engaged in laborious occupations re- 
quire a large amount of flesh food. Persons who labor hard either physically 
or mentally, need a liberal supply of food rich in albuminous elements. 
These elements are furnished by such food as pease and beans in even larger 
quantities than in the best beefsteak. A pound of pease contains four ounces 
of albuminous elements, while a pound of beefsteak contains but about three 
ounces. Oatmeal and wheat meal are also very rich in albuminous elements. 
The Scotch laborers who subsist largely upon oatmeal porridge are said to be 
among the finest developed and hardiest men in the woi-ld. Numerous sim- 
ilar evidences in favor of a liberal supply of vegetable "food might be given. 

It is an error to suppose that the system is better supported by meals at 
very frequent intervals than by food taken in accordance with the known 
time required for digestion. It has long been the custom to supply laborers 
undergoing severe exertion, as during harvest time among farmers with two 
or three extra meals during the day, thus often bringing meals within two 
or three hours of each other. We believe that the practice is a bad one, 
and that three meals at most are much better than more. The custom of 
eating five meals a day, common in some foreign countries, is certainly 
unphysiological, and must be injurious. Children are often injured by too 
frequent feeding; not only while infants, but after having grown so as to 
be large enough to attend school, being very often supplied l)y fond motliers 
with luncheon for recess, and apples to eat at all hours. It is a most unwise 
thing to allow children to form the habit of nibbling at food between meals. 
The fact that they are growing and need a large supply of nourishment is no 
apology for the practice, but rather makes it the more necessary that thev 
should be regular in their habits in order to secure good digestion. The 
stomach needs rest as well as the arms and limbs and other organs of the 
body. More food will be well digested with three meals than with a lartrer 
number, and hence a larger amount of good blood will be i)roduced and 
moi'c healthy tissue formed. 



1128 HINTS FOR THE WELL. 



It is an error to suppose that the best preparation and support for extra- 
ordinary exertion is increasing the amount of food eaten proportionately. 
It is generally supposed that if a man has an unusually large days work to 
perform he must eat an unusually large breakfast and a proportionately 
large dinner. This is certainly an error. Large demands upon either the 
muscular or the nervous system for the time being detract from the power 
to digest. The stomach requires nervous energy to enable it to perform its 
lunction. If the nervous forces are otherwise engaged or used they can not 
'oo utilized in digestion ; hence it follows, theoretically at least, that instead 
of giving the organs an extra task in preparation for an extra effort, they 
should be required to perform less than the ordinary amount of labor. Ex- 
perience as well as theory supports this view. Sir Isaac Newton when em- 
ployed in his most ardous labors, lived upon bread and water, and fasted for 
long intervals. General Elliot, the famous defender of Gibraltar, is said 
to have subsisted for a number of days on a little boiled rice. The wonderful 
"L'Homme Serpente" of Paris, always fasted for twelve hours before at- 
tempting to perform his marvelous feats of agility. This plan not only se- 
cures a higher degree of efficiency in the effort made, but prevents in great 
degree, the injury liable to result from excessive exertion. When required 
to overwork for a succession of days, we have found that we were not only 
able to perform much more work, but do it with less effort at the time, and 
less exhaustion afterward, when taking a greatly reduced quantity of food, 
than when attempting to do the same work and still taking the usual quan- 
tity of food. We have no doubt that a neglect of this precaution is a not un- 
frequent cause of the sudden deaths of which we so often receive accounts, 
especially among politicians and public men. Overloading the stomach 
and overworking the brain at the same time is exceedingly dangerous. 
The man who overworks mentally must be temperate, he must exercise the 
greatest moderation in his eating, and must totally discard all stimulants 
and narcotics. A great share of the cases of apoplexy which occur, happen 
when the stomach is full. The increased clearness of intellect which results 
from abstemiousness, well repays one for all the self-denial practiced. 



I 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. ITiU 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 



The sick-room should be the lightest, most cheerful, and best ventilated 
room in the house. Patients in the sunny wards of hospitals recover soon- 
est, and the sick, in nearly all cases, lie with their faces to the light. 
Every thing should be kept in perfect neatness and order. Matting is better 
than a carpet, though, when the latter is used, is may be kept clean by throw- 
ing a few damp tea-leaves over only a part of the room at a time, then quietly 
brushing them up with a hand-broom. A table not liable to injury, a small 
wicker basket with compartments to hold the different bottles of medicir; e 
and a small book in which to write all the physician's directions, two baskets 
made on the same plan to hold glasses or cups, screens to shade the light 
from the eyes of the patient, a nursery-lamp with which to heat water, beef- 
tea, etc., a quill tied on the door-handle with which the nurse can notify 
others that the patient is asleep by merely passing the feather-end through 
the key-hole, several "ring cushions" to give relief to patients compelled to 
lie continually in one position (these cushions are circular pieces of old linen 
sewed together and stuffed with bran ; or pads may be used, made of cotton- 
battino- basted into pieces of old muslin of any size required), and a sick 
couch'or chair, are a few of the many conveniences which ought to be in 

every sick-room. . -r .,, xi, • 

Pure air in a sick-room is of the utmost importance. In illness, the poi- 
soned body is desperately trying to throw off, through lungs, skin, and in 
every possible way, the noxious materials that have done the mischief. Bad 
air and dirty or saturated bed-clothes, increase the difficulty at the very time 
when the weakened powers need all the help they can get. Avoid air from 
kitchen or close closets. Outside air is the best, but if needed, there should 
be afire in the room to take off the chill. A cold is rarely taken m bed, with 
the bed-clothes well tucked in, but oftener in getting up out of a warm bed 
when the skin is relaxed. Of course anything like a ' chill should be 
avoided, and it is not well to allow a draft or current of air to pass directly 
over the bed of the patient. ..-, -x j fi. • ^ i, 

A good way to secure a fresh supply of air, without a draft, is to have a 
board five or six inches wide, and as long as the width of the window ; raise 
the lower sash, place board under it, and the fresh air finds its way m be- 
tween the sash by an upward current, 




1130 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 

This simple contrivance slips over the gas burner, and furnishes a se- 
cure stand on which to set a cup or tea pot, when it will heat in a few mo- 
ments. It is invaluable in a sick room or nurser)', 
in a house where gas is used, and when gas is not 
used there are substitutes for the same purpose 
which burn alcohol. 

In disease less heat is produced b}' the body 
'than in health. This decline occurs even in sum. 
mer, and is usually most evident in the early 
morning, when the vital powers slacken, the food 
of the previous day having been exhausted. The 
sick should be watched between midnight and ten or eleven in the morning, 
and if any decline in heat is noticed, it should be supplied by jugs of hot 
water. A sick-room should, above all, be quiet. Any rustUng sound, such 
as that of a silk dress or shoes which creak, should be entirely avoided. If 
it is necessary to put coal on the fire, drop it on quietly in small paper 
sacks, or rolled in paper slightly dampened. Visitors should never be ad- 
mitted in a sick-room. The necessary attendants are usually a sufficient 
annovance to a weak patient, and many a tombstone might truthfully and 
appropriatelv be inscribed : "Talked to death by well-meaning friends." It 
is not generally the loudness of a noise that disturbs the sick, but the sound 
that produces expectation of something to happen. Some can not bear any 
noise. Any thing that suddenly awakens is injurious. Never awaken a 
sleeping patient unless ordered to do so by the physician. In sickness the 
brain is weakened with the rest of the body, and sleep strengthens it. If 
rest is interrupted soon after it is begun, the brain is weakened so much the 
more, and the patient becomes irritable and wakeful. If sleep lasts longer, 
he falls asleep again more readily. Never speak within the hearing of the 
sick, in tones which can not be fully understood. An occasional word, or 
murmur of conversation, or whisper, is intolerable, and occasions needless 
apprenhension. 

Few persons have any idea of the exquisite neatness necessary in a sick- 
room. What a well person might endure with impunity, may prove fatal to 
a weak patient. Especially the bed and bedding should be scrupulously 
clean. In most diseases the functions of the skin are disordered, and the 
clothing becomes saturated with foul prespiration, so that the patient alter- 
nates between a cold damp after the bed is made, and a warm damp before, 
both poison to his system. Sheets which are used should be dried often 
from this poisonous damp, either in the sun or by the fire, and the mattress 
and blanket next the sheets should also be carefully aired as often as pos- 
sible. « In changing verj^ sick patients (particularly women after confinement) 
the sheets and wearing-clothes should be well aired by hanging by the fire 
for two days. Move the patient close to one side of the bed, turn the under 
sheet over close to the invalid, then smooth the mattress, removing any 
thing that may be on it. Make ready the clean sheet, by rolling one-half 
into a round roll, lay this close by the invalid, spread the other half smoothly 
over the bed. Now" assist the patient on the clean sheet, unroll and spread 
over the other side of the bed. Have the upper sheet ready, which must be 
carefully and gently laid over the invalid, then add the other bed-clothes. 
(In dressing a blister where a bandage has to be placed around the body, 
roll one-half the bandage, place it under the invalid, so that the attendant 
at the other side can reach it, unrolling, and placing it around the patient 
without disturbing him.) Light blankets are best for coverings. Never use 
the impervious cotton counterpanes and comforters. The clothing should be 
as light as possible with the requisite w^armth. The bed should be low and 
placed in the light, and as a rule the pillows should be low, so as to give the 
lungs free play. Scrofula is sometimes caused by children sleeping with 



HINTS FOR THE STCK-ROOM. 1131 

their heads under the clothing, and patients sometimes acquire the same 
injurious habit. 

Try one of the smallest coal oil lamps for the night lamp in the sick- 
room. It looks very small but it will make as much light as a good tallow 
candle, and will not drop oil. 

Chamber utensils should be emptied and thoroughly cleansed immedi- 
ately after using, always rinsing with cold water, as hot water tends to 
burn the odor into the utensil. Never allow them standing in the sick-room. 
Slop-pails, into which nothing should be allowed to go except the waste 
water from the wash stand- must be emptied and cleansed thoroughly at least 
twice a day. ' 

Bathing should always be done under the advice of a physician, but soap 
and water are great restoratives. In most cases, washing and properly dry- 
ing the skin gives great relief. Care should be taken, while sponging and 
cleansing, not to expose too great a surface at a time, so as to check perspira- 
tion. The physician will regulate the temperature. Sometimes a little vin- 
egar, whisky, or alcohol added to the water, makes the bath more refresli- 
ing, and bay-rum for the face, neck, and hands is often acceptable. When- 
ever the bath is followed by a sense of oppression, it has done harm. Its 
effect should be comfort and relief. 

One of the most convenient articles to be used in the sick-room is a sand- 
bag. Get some fine sand, dry it thoroughly in a kettle on the stove, make a 
bag about eight inches square of dannel, fill it with the dry sand, sew the 
opening carefully together, and cover the bag with cotton or linen cloth. 
This will prevont the sand from sifting out, and will also enable you to heat 
the bag quickly by placing it in the oven, or attempt to warm the feet or 
hands of a sick person with a bottle of hot water or a brick. The sand holds 
the heat a long time, and the bag can be tucked up to the back without hurt- 
ing the invalid. It is a good plan to make two or three of the bags and keep 
them ready for use. 

It is well for both nurse and patient to remember that nothing relieves 
nausea or vomiting sooner. than drinking hot water in as great a quantity and 
as hot as possible. Placing the hands in hot water up to the wrists, a flan- 
nel or other cloth, dipped in hot water and laid five or six folds thick, on 
any pained part, will relieve suflTering more promptly than all the pain-kill- 
ers in the world. Cover the wet flannel with another dry one, the edges of 
which extend over the wet ones an inch or more. In about five minutes 
slip the wet flannel out and put in its place another as hot as can be han- 
dled, taking care to let as little cold air as possible touch the skin over which 
the hot flannel has been applied. When pain is relieved put on towels wet 
in cool water and cover with flannel ; leave for an hour or more, remove and 
wipe dry, rubbing vigorously. These hot applications will often relieve a 
violent,"dry cough in a few minutes, and in some forms of croup will cure in 
half an hour. 

Patients are often killed by kindness. A spoonful of improper food, or 
the indulgence of some whim, may prove fatal. A physicians directions 
should always be observed with the strictest fidelity. Medicines and things 
which will be wanted during the night should all be prepared before the pa- 
tient grows sleepy. Every thing should be done quickly but quietly, and 
with precision. In talking, sit where the patient can hear you without turn- 
ing his head. Never ask questions when he is doing anything, and never 
lean or sit upon the bed. Sick persons generally prefer to be told any thing 
rather than to have it read to them. A change in the ornaments of the room 
is a great relief, and the sick especially enjoy bright and beautiful things. 
Flowers, which do not have a pungent odor, are always a great delight. 



1132 ■ HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 

In convalescence great care is necessary, and the physicians directions 
should be implicitly obeyed, especially in regard to diet; a failure in obedi- 
ence often brings on a fatal relapse. A little food at a time and often repeat- 
ed, is the general rule for the sick. A table-spoon of beef-tea, every half 
hour, will be digested, when a cupful every three or four hours will be reject- 
ed. (In giving a drink or liquid of any kind a moustache-cup will be found a 
great convenience.) The sick can rarely take solid food before eleven in the 
iiiorning, and a spoonful of beef-tea. or whatever stimulant the physician 
has ordered, given every hour or two, relieves exhaustion. Brandy, whisky, 
or other alcoholic stimulants, however, should never be ordered in cases 
where there is a hereditary tendency to use them, or where they have been 
used as a beverage, or where the associations of the patient in the future 
would be likely to make an acquired taste for them a temptation. In most 
cases substitutes may readily be found. Untouched food should never be 
left at the bed-side. Every meal should be a surprise, and the patient should 
be left alone while eating." Food for the sick must be of the best quality, and 
neatly and delicately prepared. The cook should do half the patient's di- 
gesting. Keep the cup and saucer dry, so that no drops wid fall on the bed 
or clothing. 

Beef-tea contains a certain amount of nourishment, and may be given 
in almost any inflammatory disease. Eggs do not agree with all patients, 
but are nourishing food when admissible. Tenderloin of beef, cut across 
the grain, and broiled on live coals, without smoke, and well cooked or 
rare, as the physician may direct, is always relished; and a tender lamb- 
chop, broiled in the same way, with the fat removed before serving, is 
easily digested and nutritious. Roasted potatoes, very mealy, are prefer- 
red to other vegetables. Milk is a representative diet; and, when it agrees 
with the digestion, is probably better adapted to strengthen the body in 
sickness than any other article of food, but it must be fresh and pure. 
The least taint of sourness is injurious. Butter-milk, however, when fresh, 
is useful in fevers, bilious diseases and dyspepsia. Cream is even better 
than milk, and is less apt to turn acid in the stomach. Many patients thrive 
on Indian-meal mush and cream, and any preparations of Indian-meal are 
especially good for persons who are suffering from the need of natural warmth 
(see Bread-making.) Oat-meal, Graham and rye mush, and home-made 
brown-bread, are important articles of diet, generally relished by the sick. 
There are instances of persons recovering from serious illness where a table- 
spoon of rye mush, and half tea-cup butter-milk, three times a day, were all 
that could be taken for two or three weeks. A patient's craving for any par- 
ticular article of food should be communicated to the physician, as it is often 
a valuable indication of the wants of the system. These cravings should be 
gratified whenever possible. Melons act on the kidneys, and are good in 
many cases of fever, bowel complaint, etc. Celery also is good in some dis- 
eases of the kidneys, and in nervousness and rheumatism. Fresh, crisp, 
raw cabbage, sliced fine and eaten with good vinegar, is easily digested, and 
often highly relished by a patient suffering from a "weak stomach." New 
cider is also excellent in many cases of nervous dyspepsia. Fruits and ber- 
ries — raw, ripe and perfect — used in moderation, are adaairable remedies in 
cases of constipation and its attendant diseases. The grape has a wide range 
of curative qualities. The seeds are excellent for costiveness, the pulp is very 
nutritious and soothing to irritated bowels, while the skins, if chewed, act 
as an astringent. Raw beef is excellent in dysentery ; it should be minced fine, 
and given in doses of a spoonful at a time every four hours, the patient, in the 
meantime, eating nothing else. Bananas or baked apples are good in chronic 
diarrhoea. A rind of bacon is good for teething children to chew. Rice-water 
or rice-jelly are advisable in many cases of convalescence from acute fever, 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1133 

summer complaint and like diseases. Fresh pop-corn, nicely salted, clam- 
broth, the juice of a roasted oyster in the shell, soda-water, and peppermint- 
tea are remedies for sick stomach. Vegetable acid drinks, herb-teas, toast- 
water, and all such drinks are often much relished. A custard made from a 
preparation of liquid rennet, as directed on bottle, is a delicate dish. But- 
tered toast, either dry or dipped, though so generally given, is rarely a suit- 
able article for the sick, as melted oils are very difficult of digestion. In 
quinsy,diphtheria, inflammation oflungs,typhus and other putrid fevers, acids 
are of very great benefit. Take a handful of dried currants, pour over them 
a pint of boiling water, let them stand half a minute without stirring, then • 
drain off the water, strain it through a cloth, and set it away to cool; when j 
given to the patient, dilute well, so that the acid taste is very slight. Acid j 
fruits should be eaten early in the day. Above all, it should be remember- i 
ed, that it is not the nourishment which food contains, but that which thi' 
stomach can assimilate, that builds up ; a sick person will thrive on what ; 
would not sustain a well person. 

It is of the utmost importance that the food be delicately and carefully 
administered, and this should never be left to servants. It should be made \ 
as attractive as possible, served in the choicest ware, with the cleanest of ;! 
napkins, and the brightest of silver. If tea is served, it should be freshly ; 
drawn, in a dainty cup, with a block of white sugar, and a few drops of sweet i. 
cream. Toast should be thin, symmetrical, well yellowed, free from crust, ' 
and just from the fire. Steak should be a cut of the best tenderloin, deli- • 
cately broiled, and served with the nicest of roasted potatoes. The attention : 
given to these simple matters, is, in many cases, worth more than the phys- i 
ician's prescriptions. 

The craving for tea and coffee is almost universal with the sick. A mod- 
erate quantity is a great restorative ; but an excess, especially of coflFee, im- 
pairs digestion. Neither should be given after five in the afternoon, as they 
increase excitement and cause sleeplessness ; but sleeplessness from ex- , 
haustion in the early morning is often relieved by a cup of tea or coffee. The i 
patient's taste will decide which should be used. In cases of thirst, the ; 
physician will prescribe what other drink should be given to satisfy it. Co- ; 
coa is often craved by the sick, and possesses no stimulating qualities. Crust- \ 
coflee is very nourishing. \ 

A very simple means of refreshing the nurse, and a valuable disinfectant, : 
if the nature of the invalid's complaint does not forbid it — that is seldom the • 
case — is to put some pure, fresh-ground coffee on a saucer, or other dish, \ 
and in the center place a very small piece of camphor-gum, and touch a f 
match to it. As the gum burns, allow sufficient coffee to consume to per- • 
vade the atmosphere with the aroma ; it is wonderful in its invigorating ', 
effects. j 

The following recipe makes a delicious, refreshing and cooling wash for • 
the sick room : 

Take of rosemary, wormwood, lavender, rue, sage and mint a large hand- 
ful of each. Place in a stone jar, and turn over it one gallon of strong cider 
vinegar, cover closely, and keep near the fire for four days ; then strain and 
add one ounce of pounded camphor gum. Bottle and keep tightly corked. 

There is a French legend connected with this preparation (called viniagre 
a quartre voleurs). During the plague at Marseilles, a band of robbers plun- 
dered the dying and the dead without injury to themselves. They were im- 
prisoned, tried and condemned to die, but were pardoned on condition of 
disclosing the secret whereby they could ransack houses infected with the 
terrible scourge. They gave the above recipe. Another mode of using it, is 
to wash the face and hands with it before exposing one's self to any infec- 



1134 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 

tion. It is very aromatic and refreshing in the sick-room ; so, if it can ac- 
complish nothing more, it is of great value to nurses. 



Food for the Sick. 



Crust Coffee — Toast bread very brown, pour on boiling water, strain and 
add cream and sugar and nutmeg, if desired. 

Cream Soup. — One pint boiling water, half tea-cup cream ; add broken 
piece of toasted bread and a little salt. 

Parched Rice. — Cook in custard-kettle a half cup parched rice in one pint 
boiling salted water; when done serve with cream and sugar. 

Wine Whey. — One pint of boiling milk, two wine-glasses of wine, boil a 
moment, stirring well ; take out the curd, sweeten and flavor the whey. 

Raspberry Relish. — To each pint of berry juice add one pound of sugar. 
Let it stand over night ; next morning boil ten minutes, and bottle for use. 

Tamarind Whey. — Mix an ounce of tamarind pulp with a pint of milk, 
strain and sweeten. Or, simply stir tablespoon tamarindS*into pint water. 

Butter-milk Steio. — Boil one pint butter-milk, add a small lump butter, 
and sweeten to taste. Some add teaspoon ginger and honey instead of sugar. 

Chichen Broth. — Take the first and second joints of a chicken, boil in one 
quart of water till very tender, and season with a very little salt and pepper. 

Raw Beef Tea. — Cut up lean, fresh meat, soak eight or ten hours in a 
small quantity of cold water. This is good after severe cases of typhoid 
fever. 

Alwn Whey. — Mix half ounce powdered alum with one pint sweet milk, 
strain and add sugar and nutmeg ; it is good in hemorrhages, and sometimes 
for colic. 

Pearled Wlieat Pudding.— One pint of wheat, one half gallon new milk, 
sweeten and flavor to taste, bake one hour. This is a delicious and simple 
pudding. 

To Remove Grease from Broths for the Sick. — After pouring in dish, 
pass clean white wrapping-paper quickly over the top of broth, using several 
pieces, till all grease is removed. 

Sassafras Drink. — Take the pith of sassafras boughs, break in small 
pieces and let soak in cold water till the water becomes glutinous. This is 
good nourishment, and much reiished. 

Baked Milk. — Bake two quarts milk for eight or ten hours in a moderate 
oven, in a jarcovered with writing paper, tied down. Itwill then be as thick 
as cream, and may be used by weak persons. 

Egg Gruel.— Be&i the yolks of an egg with a tablespoon of sugar, beating 
the white separately ; add a tea-cup of boiling water to the yolk, then stir in 
the white, and add" any seasoning; good for a cold. 

Sago Custard. — Soak two tablespoons sago in a tumoier of water an hour 
or more then boil in same water until clear, and add a tumbler of sweet 
Biilk • when it boils, add sugar to taste, then a beaten egg and flavoring. 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 



1135 



English Gruel. — Dessett spoon each meal and flour mixed with half a 
pint cold milk. Stir this into a pint boiling milk, slightly salted and boil in 
custard kettle, stirring to keep smooth. 

Jellice. — One-half teaspoon of currant, lemon or cranberry jelly put into 
a goblet, beat well with two tablespoons water, fill up with ice-water and you 
have a refreshing drink for a fever patient. 

Sea-moss Farine. — Dessert-spoon of sea-moss farine, quart boiling water ; 
steep a few minutes, sweeten and flavor with lemon (leaving out rinds). This 
is a very pleasant drink and is good for colds. 

Raw Beef. — Chop fresh, lean beef (the best steak or roast) very fine, 
sprinkle with salt and yepper, and put between thin slices of Graham or 
white buttered-bread. This is a very nutritious diet. 

Fever Drink. — Pour cold water on wheat bran, let boil half an hour, 
strain and add sugar and lemon-juice. Pour boiling water on flax-seed, let 
stand till it is ropy, pour into hot lemonade and drink. 

Milk Porridge. — Soak pint best oatmeal in a pint w-ater overnight, in the 
morning strain and boil the water from it half an hour, add pint milk with a 
little salt, boil and serve warm with cream and sugar. 

Warming Cup. — This is very conven- 
ient for the sick room or nursery, as the 
stem and cross can be dropped in any 
lamp chimney and the cup placed upon 
it; thus heating milk, broth, etc., very 
easily and quickly. 

Oatmeal Blanc-Mange. — A delicious 
blanc-mange is made by stirring tw^o heap- 
ing tablespoons of oatmeal into a little cold water, then 
stir with a quart of boiling milk, flavor and pour into 
molds to cool, when cream or jelly may be eaten with it. 

Vegetable Soup. — Two tomatoes, two potatoes, two 
onions, and one tablespoon rice ; boil the whole in one quart water for one 
hour, season with salt, dip dry toast in this till quite soft, and eat; this may 
be used when animal food is not allowed. 

Mulled Buttermilk. — Put on good buttermilk, and when it boils, add the 
well-beaten yolk of an egg. Let boil up and serve. Or, stir into boiling but- 
termilk thickening made of cold buttermilk and flour. This is excellent for 
convalescing patients. 

Barley Water. — Add two ounces pearled barley to half pint boiling water ; 
let simmer five minutes, drain and add two quarts boiling water ; add two 
ounces sliced figs, and two ounces stoned raisins; boil until reduced to a 
quart ; strain for drink. 

Currant Shrub. — Make the same as jelly, but boil only ten minutes ; when 
cool, bottle and cork tight, (see directions for canned fruits). Raspberry, 
strawberry and blackberry shrubs are made in the same way; when used, 
put in two-thirds ice-water. 

Beef-Tea Soup. — To one pint of "beef essence" (made in a bottle as di- 
rected in recipe on a succeeding page), quite hot, add a tea-cup of the best 
cream, well heated, into which the yolk of a fresh egg has been previously 
stirred, mix carefully together, and season slightly, and serve. 






1136 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 

Cinnamon Tea. — To a half pint fresh, new milk add stick or ground cin- 
namon enough to flavor, and white sugar to taste ; bring to boiling point, 
and take either warm or cold. Excellent for diarrhea in adults or children. 
A few drops or a teaspoon of brandy may be added, if the case demands. 

Sago-Jelly Pudding. — Wash thoroughly one teacup of sago, cook it in 
three pints of water fifteen or twenty minutes, till perfectly clear, add a very 
little salt ; stir in half a jelly-glass of currant, grape or other jelly and two 
spoonfuls sugar. Mold and serve cold with cream and sugar ; or eat warm. 

Poached Eggs. — This is a very delicate way of preparing eggs, and when 

served on slices of toast, gar- 
nished with sprigs of crisp pars- 
ley, Miey make a very pretty as 
well as appetizing dish. Poach 
them as directed in dept.of Eggs 

Arrowroot Custard. — One 
tablespoon of arrowroot, one 
Poached Eggs. pint of milk, oue egg, two table- 

spoons sugar ; mix the arrowroot with a little of the cold milk, put the rest 
of milk on the fire, and boil, and stir in the arrowroot and egg and sugar, 
well beaten together ; scald and pour into cups to cool ; any flavoring the 
invalid prefers may be added. 

Broiled Chicken, Quail, Squirrel or Woodcock. — Any of these must be 
tender. Take the breast of the first two, or the thighs of the others ; place 
on hot coals or on a broiler, turning often to prevent burning. When done, 
remove the burned parts, if any, season slightly with butter, pepper and salt, 
and serve at once . 

Tapioca Jelly. — One half pint tapioca, one quart water, juice and some 
of the grated rind of a lemon ; soak the tapioca for three or four hours in the 
water, sweeten it and boil for one hour in a custard-kettle, or until quite 
clear, stirring it often. When almost done, stir in the lemon, and when 
sufficiently cooked pour into molds. Serve with sweetened cream. 

Panada. — Take two richest crackers, pour on boiling water, let stand a 
few minutes, beat up an egg, sweeten to taste, and stir all together; grate in 
nutmeg and add brandy or wine to suit the invalid. Or, break in a pint 
bowl toasted bread and pour over boiling water, adding a small lump of but- 
ter, two tablespoons wine, brandy or whisky ; sweeten to taste and flavor 
with nutmeg or cinnamon. 

Clam Broth.— This is excellent for invalids, being the best food known 
for giving tone to the deranged stomach ; it may even be given in small quan- 
tities to sick children over six months old. Select small clams; break the 
shells, and pour the clams with the juice into a small boiler, or stew-pan; 
add enough water to modify the salty taste, and boil for ten minutes. Strain 
and it is ready for use. 

Rice Jelly. — Mix one heaping tablespoon of rice-flour with cold water 
until it is a smooth paste, add a scant pint of boiling water, sweeten with 
loaf-sugar; boil until quite clear. If the jelly is intended for a patient with 
summer complaint, stir with a stick of cinnamon ; if for one with fever, flavor 
with lemon juice, and mold. Rice-water is made in the same manner, by 
using twice the quantity of boiling water. 

Graham Gems for Invalids. — ^lix Graham flour with hai^ milk and half 
water, and add a little salt, beat, making the batter thin enough to pour, 
have the gem-pan very hot, grease it, fill as quickly as possible and return 



HIXTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 



1137 



immediately to a liot oven ; bake about tliirty minutes. Practice will teach 
just the proper consistency of the batter, and the best temperature of the 
oven. It will not be good unless well beaten. 

Raspberry Vinegar. — Pour over two quarts of raspberries in a stone jar, 
one quart of very best vinegar ; let stand twenty-four hours, strain, and pour 
liquor over fresh fruit, and let stand in the same way ; allow one pound sugar 
to a pint of juice ; put into a stone jar and set in pot of boiling water one 
hour; skim well, put into bottles, cork and seal tight. Diluted with water 
this is very nice for the sick. Toasted bread may be eaten with it. 

Blackberry Wine — To every gallon of bruised berries, add half a gallon of 
soft cold water ; let stand twenty-four hours, then strain. To every gallon 
juice, add three pounds sugar ; fill a cask and let it remain without' moving 
or shaking until it has fermented, which it will have done in six weeks. Put 
over the mouth of the cask a thin piece of muslin. When fermentation has 
ceased, draw off the wine and bottle without shaking cask. Cork and seal. 

Strawberry Acid. — Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts of 
water, and pour it upon twelve pounds of strawberries in a porcelain kettle ; 
let it simmer forty-eight hours ; strain it, taking care not to bruise the fruit.- 
To every pint of juice add one and one-half pounds of sugar and stir until 
dissolved, then leave it a few days. Bottle and cork tightly ; if a slight fer- 
mentation takes place leave the cork out a few days. Then cork, seal and 
keep bottles in a cool place. 

Royal Strawberry Acid. — Take three pounds ripe strawberries, two ounces 
citric acid, and one quart of water; dissolve the acid in the. water and pour 
it over the berries ; let them stand in a cool place twenty-four hours, draw 
off, and pour in three pounds more of berries, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours. Add to the liquor its own weight of sugar, boil three or four minutes 
each dtiy for three days, then cork tightly and seal. Keep in a dry and cool 
place . 

Arrowroot Blanc-mange. — Make as directed in Creams and Custards, 
cooling in individual molds. Di 
serving, a dainty way is on a 
tray with cream and sugar and 
a small vase of flowers, as il- 
lustrated. Any of the blanc- 
manges or jellies given in this 
department may be served thus 
and prove much more appetiz- 
ing to the patient. 

Oatmeal Cakes. — Take equal 
parts fine oatmeal and water ; 
mix and pour into a pan about 
one-third of an inch deep and 
bake half an hour, or until crisp and slightly brown ; or make half an inch 
thick and bake soft like a johnny-cake ; or if the oven is not hot enouo-h to 
bake, pour it mto a frymg-pan, cover it and bake it on the top of the stove, 
dishing it when brown on the bottom. It is not good cold. If any be left' 
warm it up and it is almost as good as new. ' 

Oatmeal Pie-crust.— This is made exactly like the dough for crackers ; it 
may be rolled a very little thinner. It bakes quickly, so that care must be 
taken not to scorch it in cooking the contents of the pie. It is not suited for 
an upper crust, but does admirably for pies that require but one crust. It is 





1138 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 

just the thing for those who do not think shortened pie-crusts wholesome, 
and it is good enough for any one. One can eat it with as much impunity as 
SI) mucli oatmeal mush and fruit sauce. 

Mutton Broth. — Put two pounds of mutton and two quarts cold water to 
boil, add one tablespoon rice washed carefully through several waters. Let 
it boil till the meat will leave the bone, and the rice is cooked to a liquid 
mass. Take from the tire, season with a little salt ; skin, if preferred. If for 
a patient with flux leave on all the fat (the more fat the better.) 

This is also a nice way to make Chicken Broth. Take a chicken size of a 
quail and prepare as above. 

Uncooked Egg. — This is quite palatable, and very strengthening, and may 
be prepared in a variety of ways. Break an egg into a 
goblet and beat thoroughly, add a teaspoon sugar, and 
after beating a moment add a tea-spoon or two of brandy 
or port wine; beat well and add as much rich milk, or part 
cream and milk, as there is of the mixture. Or, omit 
brandy and flavor with any kind of spice ; or, milk need 
not be added, or the egg and sugar may be beaten sepa- 
ratelv, wine or brandy added, stirring in lightly the v/ell- 
whipped whites at the last, and thus made it should fill a 
goblet to overflowing. Juice of a lemon in place of brandy 
gives Lemon Egg-nog. 

Oatmeal Gruel. — Put two heaping tablespoons oatmeal 
vy _ ^=^_^^^g^^^y- jn one quart cold water, stir till it commences to boil, then 
^ ~ ' cook one. hour, stirring occasionally ; do not let it scorch ; 

season with salt, sugar, and any spice desired. For infants and very sick 
patients it must be strained, and not salted ; or take two cups Irish or 
Scotch oatmeal, two quarts water and teaspoon salt. Let oatmeal soak 
overnight in half the water. In the morning strain through a coarse 
netting bag, pressing through all the farinaceous matter that will go. Add 
the rest of the water with the salt, and boil down until it begins to thicken 
perceptibly. Let it cool enough to become almost a jelly, and eat with 
powdered sugar and cream. 

Cracked Wheat Pudding. — To one quart new or unskimmed milk add one- 
third cup cracked wheat, same of sugar (or a little more if preferred), a little 
salt and small piece of stick cinnamon. ' Place in moderate oven and bake 
two hours or longer. When about half done stir in the crust already formed, 
and it will form another sufficiently brown. When done the wheat will be 
very soft, and the ])udding of a creamy consistency. It can be eaten hot or 
cold, and is nif e for invalids. A handful of raisins added is considered an 
improvement bj' some. 

Fruit Farina. — Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of farina into one quart of 
boiling milk, using a sauce-pan set into a kettle of boiling water, in order to 
prevent burning; flavor and sweeten to taste, and boil for half an hour, stir- 
ring occasionally ; then add one pint or any ripe berries, or sliced apples, and 
boil until the fruit is cooked, about twenty minutes: the pudding may be 
boiled in a mold or a cloth after the fruit is added. Serve with powdered 
sugar. 

Broiled Beefsteak. — Many times a small piece of "tenderloin" or "porter- 
house" is more wholesome, for an invalid, than broths and teas; and with 
this may be served a potato, roasted inJlie ashes, dressed with sweet cream 
(or a little butter) and salt, or nicely cooked twuiatoes. Have the steak from 
half an inch to an inch thick, broil carefully two or three minutes over hot 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. H^-* 



coals, turning often with a knife and fork, so as not to pierce it. When done, 
put on a small dish, season slightly with salt and pepper, and a small bit ot 
butter, garnish with the potato, and serve hot. 

Sieiced Oustcr,.^ Keniove all bits of shell from a half dozen fresh, select 
oysters, place in a colander, pour over a teacup of water dram, place liquor 
drained off in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan let conieto boding P';'i»t. ™ 
well ; pour off into another heated dish, all except the last spoonful w iich 
will contain sediment and bits of shell which may have been overlooked, 
wipe out sauce-pan, return liquor, add oysters, let come to the boiling point, 
add a small lump of good butter, a teaspoon ot cracker-dust, a very httle 
cayenne pepper and salt, and a half teacup fresh, sweet cream. 

Oatmeal A'(;/is/i.-Boil one gill oatmeal in three pints boiling water till 
water is reduced one-third, then strain and cool the gruel let settle and pom 
the liquid part carefully away from the sediment Use it hot or cold as pie- 
ferred with sugar and any fruit juice. Two tab esppons o raisins may be 
added to gruel while boiling. The effect of raisius is^ gently laxative but it 
used in excess they sometimes cause indigestion and flatulence. 

To Make Kumyss.—Tiike three quarts of good, rich, sweet milk ; one 
Quart of hot water, in which dissolve one-half pint sugar ; add the hot water 
to the milk ■ when the mixture is luke warm add three tablespoons ot brew- 
er's veast; set in a moderately warm place, stir often, and, when it begins 
to sparkle (which will be in about one and a half hours), put it into strong 
bottles and cork tight ; put in a cool place" and in eight hours it will be leady 
foi use Procure "a champagne tap (cost $1), and draw the best kuinyss 
ever made. 

Premred Flour for Summer Complaint.— Take a double handful of flour, 
tie up tightlv in cloth and put in a kettle of boiling water, boil from three to 
six hours, take out, remove the cloth, and you will have a hard, round 
ball Keep in a drv, cool place, and when wanted tor use, prepare by plac- 
ing some sweet milk (new alwaws preferred) to boil, and grating into the 
milk from the ball enough to make it as thick as you desire, stirring it just 
before removing from the stove with a stick of cinnamon; this gives it a 
pleasant flavor -put a little salt into the milk. Very good tor chddren hav- 
ing the summer complaint. 

Milk Porridge.— Vlace on stove in skillet one pint new sweet milk and a 
very little pincli of saU; when it boils have ready sifted flour, and sprinkle 
with one hand into the boiling milk, stirring all the whde with a spoon 
Keep adding flour until it is about the consistency ot thick molasses ; eat 
warm with a little butter and sugar. This is excellent tor children suffering 
with summer complaint. Or, mix the flour wilh a little cold mdk until a 
smooth paste, and then stir into the boiled milk. Or break an egg into the 
drv flour and rub it with the hands until it is all in fine crumbs (size ot a 
grain of wheat), then stir this mixture into the boiling milk. 

Bran Biscuit— Take cup bran (as prepared by Davis & Taylor, 24 Canal 
Street Boston), five cups sifted flour; scald the bran at tea-time with halt 
pint boiling water ; when cool, pour it into the middle bt the flour, add one- 
ha f cup good yeast (or part of a yeast-cake, soaked till light), one teaspoon 
salt and two tablespoons sugar ; wet with new milk into soft dough much 
thicker than better. Let it stand, covered closely, m a warm place to rise. 
Tn the mornino' spoon into hot gem or patty-pans, and bake in a quick oven 
to a Sown crust ^Part of the dough mly be baked in a small loaf to be eaten 
warm (It can be made with water by using a little butter, but it is not so 
good.) any remaining may be split for dinner or toasted for tea. 



1140 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 



Oat-meal Wafers. — Use equal parts water and oat-meal, make as thin as 
you can shake it out on the bottom of pan, so that when done it will not be 
thicker than a .knife-blade anywhere, and in most places you can see day- 
light through it. Bake very slowly until quite dry, watching that it may not 
scorch. In taking out it will probably break into many fragments, but they 
will be delicious ones— not shapely for the table, but so temptingly savored 
that any delicate person who can eat at all will find them satisfying, nour- 
ishing, and easily digested — far better than the standard sick dish called 
gruel. As for the well folks, put your wafers oui of the way if you expect to 
find any of them for the invalid's next meal. 

Blackberry Cordial. — Put a half bushel of blackberries in a preserving- 
kettle and cook until scalded through well ; strain and press out all the juice ; 
put juice in kettle with the following spices well broken up and put into a 
ba<^; one-quarter pound allspice, two ounces cinnamon-bark two ounces 
clo'v-es, and two nutmegs ; add loaf-sugar, about one pound to every quart of 
juice or more if preferred, and cook slowly ten or fifteen minutes, remove 
from the fire, let cool a little, and add good pure brandy in the proportion of 
one pint to every three pints of juice. A smaller quantity may be made, 
using the same proportions. This is an excellent remedy for diarrhoea and 
other diseases of the bowels. 

Good Toast. — Toast slices of bread, scrape off any blackened, charred 
portion ; lay on a soup plate, pour on cold milk enough to wet through, and 
leave half an inch or so in depth of milk in the plate. Good milk, with a 
little extra cream in it, is all the better, and a very trifle of salt improves it. 
Put over the toast thus prepared, an inverted large earthen bowl, or tin basin, 
lar^e enough to cover it and set down upon the plate all round. Put this in 
a warm, not very hot, stove oven, two, three, or more hours in advance. 
The milk will cook and evaporate and its substance be condensed in the 
toast while the cover will keep the toast moist. It is then very good without 
butter, though a little may be used if desired. 

Beef Broth. — Cut in small pieces one pound of good lean beef, put on in 
two quarts of cold water and boil slowly, keeping it well covered, one and 
one-half hours ; then add half a teacup tapioca, which has been soaked 
three-quarters of an hour in water enough to cover, and boil half an hour 
longer. Some add, with the tapioca, a small bit of parsley, and a slice or 
two of onion. Strain before serving, seasoning slightly with pepper and 
salt. It is more strengthing to add, just before serving, a soft poached egg. 
Rice may be used instead of tapioca, straining the broth, and adding one or 
two tablespoons rice (soaked for a short time), and then boiling half an 
hour. 

Meat for Invalids. — The following method of rendering raw meat pal- 
atable to invalids is given by good .authority. To 8.7 ounces of raw meat, 
from the loin, add 2.6 ounces shelled sweet almonds, .17 ounces shelled bitter 
almonds, and 2.8 ounces white sugar — these to be beaten together in a 
marble mortar to a uniform pulp, and the fibres separated by a strainer. 
The pulp, which has a rosy hue, and a very agreeable taste, does not remind 
one of meat, and may be kept fresh for a considerable time, even in summer, 
in a dry, cool place. Yolk of egg may be added to it. From this pulp, or 
directly from the above substance, an emulsion may be prepared which will 
be rendered much more nutritious by adding milk. 

Articles for the Sick-Room. — Arubber bag, holding two quarts, to be one- 
half or three-quarters filled with hot water, and placed about the patient 
where needed— under head in neuralgia, around the side in liver congestion, 
etc. ; or can be filled with very cold water in cases needing such applications 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1141 



— is very flexible and agreeable, and can be used where a soap-stone or bot- 
tle would hurt. 

A pair of very long, loose stockings, knit of Saxony wool, or any soft 
yarn, without heels, to draw on towards morning in fever cases, or to keep 
patient warm when she is up ; they might come half way between the knee 
and thigh. Every housekeeper should have a pair to be used in cases of 
sickness. 

Oatmeal Crackers. — Wet one pint of fine oatmeal with one gill water; 
work it a few minutes with a spoon, until you can make it up into a mass ; 
place on a board well covered with dry oatmeal ; make as compact as you 
can, and roll out carefully to one-sixth of an inch thick, and cut into squares 
with a knife. Bake in a very slow oven, or merely scald at first; and then 
let them stand in the oven until they dry out. These are difficult to make 
up at first, but you soon learn to handle the dough and to watch oven so that 
they will not scorch. These are excellent for all the purposes of crackers, 
and if kept dry, or if packed in oatmeal, theywill last good for months. This 
is one form of the Scotch ''bannock." A rich addition is two heaping spoons 
of ground dessicated cocoanut. 

Old-time Food for Convalescents. — Roast good potatoes in hot ashes and 
coals ; when done, put in a coarse cloth and squeeze with the hand, and take 
out the inside on a plate. Put a slice of good pickled pork on a stick three 
or four feet long, hold before a wood fire until it cooks slightly, then dip into 
a pan of water and let it drip on the potato to season it ; repeat until the 
meat is nicely cooked on one side, then turn the other, dip in water, etc. 
When done place on plate beside the potato, serve with a slice of toast 
dressed with hot water and a little vinegar and salt, or use sweet cream in- 
stead of vinegar. A cup of sage tea, made by pouring boiling water on a 
few leaves of sage and allow it to stand a few minutes, served with cream 
and sugar, is very nice ; or crust coffee, or any herb tea is good. Food pre- 
pared in this way obviates the use of butter. 

Beef Tea. — Cut pound best lean steak in small pieces, place in glass fruit 
jar (a perfect one), cover tightly and set in a pot of cold water ; heat gradu- 
ally to boil, and continue this steadily three or four hours, until the meat is 
like white rags and the juice thoroughly extracted ; season with very little 
salt, and strain through a wire strainer. Serve either warm or cold. To 
prevent jar toppling over, tie a string around the top part, and hang over a 
stick laid across the top of pot. When done, set kettle off stove and let cool 
before removing the jar, and in this way prevent breakage. Or, when beef- 
tea is wanted for immediate use, place in a common pint bowl (yellow ware), 
add very little water, cover with saucer, and place in a moderate oven ; if in 
danger of burning add a little more water. To make beef-tea more palatable 
for some patients, freeze it. 

Cornmeal Gruel. — Add three pints boiling water, two tablespoons corn- 
meal, stirred up with a little cold water ; add a pinch of salt and cook twenty 
minutes. For very sick persons, let it settle, pour oflfthe top, and give with- 
out other seasoning. For convalescents, toast a piece of bread nicely, and 
put in the gruel with one or two tablespoons sweet cream, a little sugar and 
ginger, or nutmeg and cinnamon. When a laxative diet is allowed this is 
very nourishing. Or, take a pint of meal, pour over it a quart or more of cold 
water, stir up, let settle a moment, and pour off the water ; repeat this three 
times, then put the washed meal into three quarts of cold water, and place 
where it will boil ; cook three hours, and when done add a pinch of salt. 
This is a very delicate way of cooking, and it may be eaten with or without 
other seasoning. 



11-42 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOAI. 

Boiled Flour or Flour Ball. — Take one quart good flour ; tie in a pud- 
ding bag so tightly aB to make a solid mass ; put into a pot of boiling water 
early in the morning, and let boil until bedtime; take out and let dry. In 
the morning, peel off and throw away the thin rind of dough, and with a 
nutmeg-grater, grate down the hard dry mass into a powder. Of this from 
one to three teaspoons may be used, by first rubbing it into a paste with a 
little milk, then adding it to about a pint of milk, and, finally, by bringing 
the whole to just the boiling-point. Give through a nursing-bottle. For 
children w'ho are costive use bran"meal or unbolted flour instead of white 
flour, preparing as above directed. 

Rice Water. — Wash four tablespoons of rice ; put it into two quarts of 
water, which boil down to one quart, and then add sugar and a little nut- 
meg. This makes a pleasant drink. A pint or half a pint of milk added to 
the rice water, before it is taken from the fire, gives a nourishing food suit- 
able for cases of diarrhea. Sago, tapioca, barley, or cracked corn can be 
prepared in the same manner. 

Beef Tea. — Take a pound of juicy lean beef and mince it. Put it with its 
juice into an earthen vessel containing a pint of tepid water, and let the 
whole stand for one hour. Slowly heat to boiling point, and let it boil for 
three minutes. Strain liquid through a colander, and stir in a little salt. 
If preferred, a little pepper or allspice may be added. 

Mutton Tea may be prepared in the same way. It makes an agreeable 
change when the patient has become tired of beef tea. 

Eaw Beef for Children. — Take half a pound of juicy beef, free from any 
fat ; mince it very finely ; then rub it into a smooth pulp either in a mortar 
or with an ordinary potato-masher, and press it through a fine sieve. Spread 
a little out upon a plate and sprinkle over it some salt, or some sugar if the 
child prefers it. Give it alone or spread upon a buttered slice of stale bread. 
It makes an excellent food for children with dysentery. 

Articles Easy of Digestion. — The following articles are readily digested 
by a healthy stomach, and can be digested with comparative ease by most 
dyspeptics : 

ANIMAL FOODS. 

Raw white of egg, beaten to a froth ; beef tea, free from fat ; raw whole 
egg, beaten ; milk fresh and warm ; fresh eggs, soft boiled ; mutton, broiled ; 
venison steak, broiled ; chicken, especially the white parts; rabbit; fresh 
trout, and most fresh fish which are not oily. 

VEGETABLE FOODS. 

Stale bread; graham rolls, without yeast or soda; rice, well boiled or 
steamed; tapioca; corn-starch; oatmeal porridge, eaten with dry toast, Gra- 
ham mush or crushed wheat ; cauliflower ; asparagus, if very tender ; French 
beans; baked sweet or subacid apples; strawberries and whortleberries; 
grapes without skins or seeds ; oranges or bananas. 

Articles not Easy of Digestion . — The following list includes the common 
articles of food which require a considerable degree of vigor on the part of the 
digestive organs, and must be avoided by all bad dyspeptics ; 

ANIMAL FOODS. 

Animal soui)s of all sorts ; beef ; lamb ; turkey, duck, pigeon ; codfish ; 
raw ovsters ; butter ; all sorts of roast meats. 



HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1143 

VEGETABLE FOODS. 

Potatoes ; turnips ; cabbage ; tomatoes ; peas ; beans ; raisins, and most 
dried fruit ; apples ; peaches ; peaches ; plums ; cherries ; pineapples ; beets ; 
carrots; spinach; parsnips; vegetable soups ; corn-meal preparations ; salads 
of all sorts ; currants ; gooseberries ; raspberries ; rhubarb ; jelly. 

Indigestible Articles. — The following articles, while they maybe digested 
by a vigorous stomach, impair the digestive powers and induce indigestion 
and to the dyspeptic are more of the character of poison than of foods : 

ANIMAL FOODS. 

Pork; veal; goose; liver; kidney; heart; sausage; hard-boiled eggs; 
scrambled eggs ; cheese ; hashed and stewed meats ; melted butter, and all 
animal fats; mackerel, and all oily fish ; dried and smoked fish ; sardines, 
and other fish preserved in oil; lobster; crabs; etc.; cooked oysters and 
clams ; fried uaeats of all sorts. 

VEGETABLE FOODS. 

AVarm bread, especially taken with butter ; muffins ; buttered toast ; pies, 
cakes, and all sorts of pastry; pancakes ; fried bread and vegetables ; nuts of 
all kinds ; onions ; mushrooms ; pickles ; tea ; coffee ; cocoa ; chocolate ; mus- 
tard ; pepper ; spices and other condiments ; sugar ; preserves, and all sacch- 
arine foods. 



1144 MEDICAL. 



MEDICAL. 



When people fall sick they seein to lose what little common sense they 
possessed when well. Men and women who are moderately wise and reason- 
able in other matters, cherish the most absurd superstitions, and follow the 
advice of the most transparent quacks when it comes to disease and medi- 
cine. A little reflection will convince many reasonable persons that no single 
medicine will cure all diseases, indeed no medicine will cure the same dis- 
ease in diflferent persons, and in different stages. Any candid physician will 
admit that the use of medicines by the nlost skillful and experienced prac- 
titioner, is, to a great extent, an experiment. What is "one man's meat is 
another man's poison," and even the best physician needs to know the con- 
stitution of the patient, and to study the symptoms of disease before he can 
prescribe safely, to say nothing of curing the disease. And yet there are in- 
telligent men and women who buy patent nostrums, and pour them down 
their throats, knowing nothing of the disease, or of the probable effect of the 
alleged remedy. For instance, a child has a cough and a "cough remedy" 
is purchased and dealt out. Now, there are many kinds of coughs. The 
cough maybe "dry," or it may be "loose" ; the symptoms may differ in va- 
rious ways, and yet the "cough remedy" given for a "dry" cough may be 
intended for a "loose" one, and so all the symptoms may be aggravated, 
perhaps with a fatal result. The physician's advice and experience is chief- 
ly valuable to teil us what the disease is and the best possible treatment for 
it. It is dangerous in the extreme to administer any powerful remedv, or 
any medicine the nature and effect of which are not known, without the advice 
of some one who knows the disease and its probable effect. The household 
chest should contain only simple remedies, the effect of which, at worst, can 
not be very injurious ; and in all dangerous or violent diseases a physician 
should be promptly called. 



For Varicose Veins. — AVear a silk elastic stocking. 

For Colds, drink pennyroyal tea. 

Olycerine is excellent to rub on chafes, burns, chapped hands or sun 
scalds. 

. Blistered Feet.— To cure blistered feet from long walking, rub the feet, at 
going to bed, with spirits mixed with tallow. 



MEDICAL. 1145 

Liniment. — Three ounces each of tincture of opium, camphorated oil, and 
soap liniment. 

For Jaundice — The volk of an egg, raw or slightly cooked, is excellent 
food in jaundice. 

Chapped Hands and Lips. — Four parts glycerine to one part simple tinct- 
ure of benzoin. The latter is very healing. 

For Quinsy, gargle with water as hot as can be borne. This gives grt*at 
relief, even in severe cases. 

Liniment. — The common May-weed blossoms put in alcohol are much 
superior to arnica for the same use. 

For Soreness and Pains. — Bathe with hot alcohol ; ana salt is often added. 
The use of alcohol sponge-baths after confinement is almost a necessity. 

To Check Vomiting. — Give a teaspoon of whole black mustard seed. A 
tablespoon may be gi-ven in severe cases. 

For Sick Headache. — Whenever the symptoms are felt coming on, drink 
a teacup of thoroughwort or boneset-tea. 

Trichina;. — Don't eat raw hog meat of any sort. It may contain trichinae, 
and if it does, the undertaker may as well be sent for. 

Liine in the Eye. — When lime, soda, potash, or ammonia, gets in the eye, 
wash out with water containing a little vinegar. 

For Stiff Joints. — Oil made by trying up common angle worms, is excel- 
lent to apply to sinews drawn up by sprains or disease. 

Pleurisy. — Oiled silk jjlaced over the chest of those suffering from pneu- 
monia or pleurisy, will give great relief and hasten recovery. 

For Rheumatism. — To one pint alcohol, add one tablespoon pulverized 
potash, and a lump of gum-camphor the size of a walnut. Use as a liniment. 

Children's Beds. — No two children should sleep in the same bed. They 
will have better health and thrive better to sleep by themsslves. 

Chronic Diarrhcea is cured by drinking orange-peel tea; sweeten with 
loaf-sugar, and use as a common drink for twenty-four to thirty-six hours. 

For Burns. — Lime-water, olive-oil, and glycerine, equal parts ; applied 
on lint, or grated raw potatoes used as a poultice. 

A Simple Remedy for Catarrh. — Place alum on the stove and let it melt 
and burn until it becomes a dry powder. Then use it as snuff. 

To Stop Bleeding. — Apply wet tea-leaves, or scrapings of sole-leather to 
a fresh cut and it will stop the bleeding, or apply a paste of flour and vinegar. 

Beef Tea. — Boil the heei for a few minutes, and squeeze the juice from it 
with a lemon-squeezer, salt and use hot, cold or frozen. 

To Stop Bleeding at the Nose. — Bathe the feet in very hot water, drink- 
ing at the same time a pint of cayenne peper tea, or hold both arms above 
the head. 

For Dressing Cuts, Wounds or Sores. — Surgeon's solution of carbolic 
acid and pure glycerine mixed in equal parts, and applied on soft lint or linen 
cloth. 

To Harden Nipples. — Bathe with a preparation of one-half ounce liquid 
tannin and two ounces glycerine, for three or four months before confinement, 
once or twice a day. 



1116 MK.DTCAL. 

For Sore Nipples. — Bathe in Pond's Extract. The nipple need not be 
washed oft' before nursing. Or to the well-beaten white of an egg add a tew 
drops of tannin, mixed thoroughly, and bathe. Make fresh every day or two. 

Change of Climate. — A change of climate is nearly always beneficial to 
health for a time, and sometimes efl"ects a complete cure in disease. It is 
still more likely to do good if a change of habits and diet goes with it. 

Dirt in the Eije. — To remove speeks of dirt from the eye, immerse the 
eye in cold water, then wink and roll the eyeball until the desired result is 
accomplished. 

Stammering. — If not caused by malformation of organs, reading aloud, 
with the teeth closed, for at least two hours a day for three or four months 
will cure stanmiering. 

Hoarseness. — It is said hoarseness may be relieved by using the white of 
an egg, thoroughly beaten, mixed with lemon-juice and sugar. Take a tea- 
spoo-nf ul occasional ly . 

Remedy for Piles. — ^lix a tea-spoon of sulphur with a tea-cup of milk, and 
take twice a day, morning and night, until improvement takes place ; then 
take occasionally 

Frosted Feet. — To relieve the intense itching of frosted feet, dissolve a 
lump of alum in a little water and bathe the feet with it, warming it before 
the fire. One or two applications are sure to give relief. 

Wound fro7n Rusted Nail. — Smoke this or any inflamed wound over the 
fume of burning woolen cloth, wool or sugar, for fifteen minutes, and the pain 
will be taken out. 

For Toothache or Neuralgia. — Thicken the yolk of an egg with common 
salt and apply as a poultice ; or slice raw onions, and scatter shaved hard 
soap over them and apply. 

For Sprains. — The white of an egg, and salt mixed to a thick paste is one 
of the best remedies for sprains, or bruises, or lameness, for man or beast. 
Rub well the part aff"ected. 

For Weak Eyes. — Bathe in hot water, never using cold; and neither chil- 
dren nor adults should use water below 50'^ temperature in washing, as cold 
water is very injurious to the eyes. 

To Prevent Sea- Sickness. — Make a pad of wool oi' horse hair, and bind over 
the stomachy Brandy and water, very weak, is the best remedy to allay the 
heat and irritation. 

A Valuable Liniment. — One ounce AvorniAVood to one pint alcohol. Or, 
bruise the green stalks of wormwoo<l, moisten with vinegar, and apply to the 
sprain, Good for man or beast. 

Cutting the Hair. — Many children and men take cold after having the hair 
cut. This may be prevented by a quick dash of cold water on the head im- 
mediately after cutting, and before going out, and a brisk rubbing afterward. 

To Relieve Asthma. — Wet blotting paper in strong solution of saltpetre, 
dry it, and burn a piece three inches square on a plate in sleeping room, and 
it will afford a quick relief. 

Manna and Milk. — Take a quart of fresh skim milk, and boil in it one 
ounce of manna; drinking this quantity cool, in small draughts, at intervals 
during the day, is good lior consumption. 



MEDICAL. 1147 

Stc^- jFTeadac/i^.— Elixir of guarana, prepared by Brewer & Co., Spring- 
field, Mas3._ Take one teaspoon every half hour until four have been taken, 
on the first intimation that the headache is coming on. 

Hot Water for a Cojigh.— For a tight, hoarse cough, where phlegm is not 
rising, or with difficulty, take hot water often, as hot as can be sipped. This 
will be found to give immediate and permanent relief. 

Sprains or I,a???<?«css.— Two ounces camphorated spirits, two ounces sweet 
oil, two ounces ammonia, two ounces chloform ; shake well before using, and 
rub it on by a fire. It is very excellent for a family liniment. 

Cherokee Liniment. — One ounce gum-camphor, dissolved in alcohol, one 
ounce each of spirits turpentine, sweet oil, hemlock oil, origanum oil, and 
cedar oil, two ounces spirits hartshorn. Use externally. Shake well before 
using. 

To Prevent Skin from Discoloring after a Bruise. — Apply immediately, or 
as soon as possible, a little dry starch or arrow-root, moistened with cold 
water, or rub with common table butter, or press firmly with blade of knife. 

Salve for Cuts and Burns. — To one-half pound sweet lard add one-fourth 
pound of beeswax and the same of resin ; beat all together till well mixed ; 
pour in a little tin box. Apply a little to the wound on a soft cotton cloth. 

Wens. — Dissolve copperas in water to make it very strong; now take a 
pin, needle, or sharp knife, and prick or cut the wen in about a dozen places, 
just sufficient to cause it to bleed ; then wet it well with the copperrs water, 
once daily. 

For Ivy Poisoning. — A simple and effectual remedy for ivy poisoning, is 
said to be sweet spirits of nitre. Bathe the affected parts two or three times 
during the day, and the next morning scarcely any trace of the poison will 
remain. 

Cholera Mixture. — Take one ounce of the following ingredients: tincture 
opium, capsicum or red pepper, rhubarb, pepermint and camphor put in 
large bottle, with a pint best brandy. Dose is ten to twenty drops in two or 
three teaspoons water. Good in any case of diarrhea. 

For the Lungs. — A quart (or less if too strong) of tar, stirred six minutes 
in a gallon of water, and one-fourth, or a tumbler, taken four times a day, an 
hour or two after meals, is said to clear the lungs, and give greater ease in 
public speaking. 

Sleeplessness. — AVet a cloth in cold water, and lay it on the back of the 
neck. Fold a towel smoothly over it, and very often it will sooth the weary 
brain, and quiet the nerves better than an opiate. It is particularly useful 
in case of a dull headache. 

Broken Breasts. — One tablespoon unmelted lard, six small onions or two 
large ones sliced thin and fried in lard, until of a light brown, and thorough- 
ly done ; then add half pint boiling water and thicken with corn meal to the 
consistency of mush. Spread on a cloth and apply as warm as can be borne. 

Diet in Disease and Health. — Of the grains for mushes, rye is most flesh 
making, oatineal second, and Graham third. For laxativeness — rye first, 
Graham second, oatmeal third. Graham builds up nerves, bones, and sin- 
ews ; dark gluten the same ; light gluten is more fattening than the dark. 

Changing Clothing. — People often take cold by removing heavy under- 
clothing too earlv in the spring. This should never be done until weather is 
settled. When about to make the change, take a cold hand-bath or sponge- 
Dath and rub briskly, in the morning, and there is no danger of taking cold. 



1148 MEDICAL. 



For Catarrh. — Putting a cloth wet in hot watei* over the nose and fore- 
head just before going to bed, and secured in place with a handkerchief over 
which a flannel is placed. Do this three nights, then skip three, etc. 

To Prevent Wearing Through the Skin when Bed-Ridden. — Apply to tender 
parts of the body with a feather, a mixture made by beating to a strong froth, 
the white of an egg, dropping in while beating two teaspoons spirits of wine. 
Bottle for use. 

Bee Stings. — Any absorbant will give relief from bee stings, but perhaps 
nothing is more effectual than lean raw meat. The sting of a bee or wasp 
may be almost instantly relieved by it. It is said to cure the bite of a rattle- 
snake, and relieve erysipelas. 

For a Cold.— Cayenne pepper-tea for a cold. Put a quarter of a teaspoon 
of cayenne pepper in a tea-cup ; pour over hot water and sweeten with, sugar. 
Or, steep horseradish in a gill of vinegar, add a gill of honey, and take a tea- 
spoon every twenty minutes. 

Camphorated Ointment. — Good for burns, chapped hands, sore lips, salt- 
rheum, etc. One ounce each gum camphor, beeswax and fresh butter, stew 
and strain butter, then put all together, and simmer till the camphor is dis- 
solved, keeping covered while simmering. 

Paste for Scrap-books. — Corn-starch makes the best paste for scrap-books. 
Dissolve a small quantity in cold water, then cook it thoroughly. Be careful 
not to get it too thick. When cold it should be thin enough to apply with a 
brush. It Will not mould or stain the paper. 

Blackened eye. — Should the eye or any other part be blackened by a fall 
or blow, apply a cloth wrung out of very warm water, and renew it until the 
pain ceases, The moisture and heat liquify the blood, and send it back to its 
proper channel. Never use cold water to a bruise. 

Constipation. — Two ounces of senna, simmer the strength out in one quart 
of water, strain the tea; one pound of prunes, cooked soft, with half tea-cup 
of white sugar. Several times a day take, first one tablespoon of the senna 
tea, then eat one prune, fasting as much as possible; 

For Eri/sipelas. — A simple poultice made from cranberries pounded fine, 
and applied in a raw state, is said to be a certain cure ; or slip off the outer 
bark of elder, break up the wood with the inner bark, and steep in butter- 
milk ; drink and apply to the parts affected. 

For Sore Throat. — Take five cents worth of chlorate of potash, dissolve, 
and take a teaspoon every hour, and also gargle with it. Or to a tea-cup vin- 
egar add salt and cayenne pepper, making it as strong as can be taken (some 
add a little pulverized alum) and gargle often with it. 

For Chronic Gathering in the head and discharge from the ear, take shot 
about the size of smad pease, flatten them, make a hole through the center, 
string them on a stout string, and wear as beads. Give this a trial before 
pronouncing it to be a whim. 

Burns. — Common baking soda — the bicarbonate — has been found to cure 
burns or scalds, affording immediate relief when it is properly applied. For 
a dry burn, the soda should be made into paste with water. For a scald or 
wet burned surface, the powdered soda (or borax will do as well) should be 
dusted on ; or apply raw linseed oil. 

To Relieve roo</iac/ie.— Apply powdered alum, or fill mouth with warm 
water, and immediately after with cold ; or saturate a piece of cotton with a 
stong solution of ammonia, and applv to the tooth. For toothache and in- 
flamed face caused by it, apply a poultice of pounded slippery-elm bark and 
cold water. 




MEDICAL. 1149 

To Drop Medicine.— Shake the bottle so as to moisten the cork. With 
^ the wet end of the cork moist- 

en the edges of the month of 
the bottle, then holding the 
cork under the mouth, let the 
fluid pass over the cork in 
dropping; or place the han- 
dle of the spocn between the leaves of a closed book lying on the table, and 
tben l)oth hands may be used in dropping the mixture ; or bend the handle 
of a tea or tablespoon as in cut, so that it will stand alone. 

A Oood Cure for Colds i.s to boil two ounces of flaxseed in one quart of 
water; strain and add two ounces of rock candy, one-half pint of honey, juice 
of three lemons ; mix, and let all boil well ; let cool, and bottle. Dose— One 
cupful before bed, one-half cupful before meals. The hotter you drink it the 
better. 

Tape Worjns are t- aid to be removed by refraining from supper and break- 
fast, and at eight o'clock taking one-third" part of two hundred minced pump- 
kin seeds, the shells of which have been removed by hot water ; at nine fake 
another third, at ten the remainder, and follow it at eleven with strong dose 
of castor oil. 

For Cold in tne Head. — As soon as you feel that you have a cold in the 
head, put a teaspoon of sugar in a goblet, and on it put six drops of camphor, 
stir it, and till the glass half full of water; stir, till the sugar is dissolved, 
then take a dessert spoonful every twenty minutes. This is sure cure if taken 
as directed. 

To Prevent Takhig Cold. — If out in cold weather with insulhcient clothing 
or M-rappings, fold a newspaper and spread across the chest. Persons having 
weak lungs can in this way make for themselves a very cheap and perfect 
lung protector. Large papers spread between quilts at night add much to 
the warmth. 

Salve. — The following is an excellent salve for burns, cuts, or sores o^ 
long standing : Take equal parts uf meited beeswax, nmtton suet, pulverized 
resin, burnt alum, honey, Venice of turpentine, sweetoil. Cook over a slow 
fire all together. Stir till it commences to thicken; then strain through a 
cloth and pour in earthen boxes. 

Catavrh Cold.--Ten drops carbolic acid, and seven and a half each of iodine 
and chloroform ; heat a few drops over a spirit lamp in a test tube, holding 
the mouth of the tube to the nostrils as soon as volatization is effected. Rp'- 
peat every two minutes, until the patient sneezes a number of times, when 
the troublesome symptoms will disappear. 

Neuralgia. — One-half drachm sal-ammonia in one ounce of camphor- 
M'ater. Take a teaspoon several times, five minutes apart, until relieved. 
Another simple remedy is horseradish. Grate and mix it in vinegar, the 
same as for table purposes, and apply to the temple when the face or head is 
affected, or the wrist, when the pain is in the arm or shoulder. 

Wliooping Cough. — Mix one lemon sliced, half-pint flax-seed, two ounces 
honey, and one quart water, and simmer, not boil, four hours; strain when 
cool, and if there is less than a pint of the mixture, add water. Dose : one 
table-spoon four times a day, and one also, after each severe fit of coughing. 
Warranted to cure in four days if given when the child first ''whoops." 

Worms. — A mother gives the following : "Once a week invariably — and 
generally when we had cold meat minced— I gave the children a dinner which 



1150 MEDICAL. 



is hailed with delight, and looked forward to ; this is a dish of boiled onions. 
The little ones knew that they were taking the best of medicine fcr expelling 
what most children suffer from— worms. Mine we kept free by this remedy 
alone." 

For Sore Throat use as a remedy one ounce of camphorated oil and five 
cents worth of chlorate of potash. Whenever any soreness appears in the 
throat, put the potash in half a tumbler of water, and with it gargle the throat 
thoroughly, then rub the throat thoroughly with the camphorated oil at night 
before going to bed, and also pin around the throat a small strip of woolen 
flannel. 

Eije Wash. — Sulphate of zinc two grains, sulphate of morphine one-half 
grain," distilled water one ounce ; mix, and bottle. Drop in the eye (a drop 
or two at once,) then wink the eye several times, so that the wash may reach 
all the parts ; and keep quiet and do not use the eyes for about an hour. This 
wash is for blood-shot eyes, and when used it will produce quite a smarting 
sensation 

Alger Liniment. — Alcohol, one gallon ; cagiput oil, one ounce ; monard oil, 
one ounce ; thymes oil, one ounce ; peppermint oil, half ounce ; camphor gum, 
one ounce. Shake well and let stand twenty-four hours. It is good for rheu- 
matism and for any purpose for which liniment is used for man or beast. 
This is a very valuable recipe and has been sold at a very high price. 

Sure Cure for Coni.t.— Take one-fourth cup of strong vinegar, crumb finely 
into it some l)read. Let stand half an hour, or until it softens into a good 
poultice. Then apply on retiring at night. In the morning the soreness will 
be gone, and the corn can be picked out. If the corn is a very obstinate one 
it may require two or more applications to effect a cure. 

Raw Linseed Oil is one of the best applications for burns, wounds, and 
cuts. It excludes the air and lieals rapidly. Dip a cloth in it, and apply, 
covering with a second cloth. For flux or diarrhea in children, give a tea- 
spoonful three times a day until the disease has abated. Be careful not to 
use boiled linseed oil as a remedy in cases of men or animals. When boiled 
it is only used for painting. 

Conklins Salve. — One pound of resin, two ounces mutton tallow, one of 
beeswax, one-half gill alcoholic spirits, add a little of the gum of balsam ; 
boil all together slowly, until it has done rising or foaming, or until it begins 
to appear clear. Pour the mixture into a pail of cold water, and when it 
gathers, take it out, roll on boards and cut it off. Care must be taken not to 
burn it. Moisten the hands in brandy while working. 

To Promote or Restore Menstruation. — Put a small tea-cup of logwood chips 
into a pint of soft w-ater, simmer for fifteen minutes, then add one half pint 
of whiskey. Dose, one tablespoon half an hour before each meal, and just 
before going to bed. Another excellent prescription for the same purpose is 
made as follows : Two drams of prepared citrate of iron and quinine, one pint 
cherry wine, one-half ounce chamomile flowers. 

Itch Ointment.— Two tablespoons lard, one of black pepper, one of ground 
mustard ; boil all together, and when taken off and nearly cold add one table- 
spoon sulphur. Anoint with this three evenings successively just before go- 
ing to bed. Do not change bed-clothes or wearing clothes during the time. 
After this, wasli with castile soap suds, and change all the clothing that has 
been worn or touched. 

Poison by Icy.— An infallible remedy for poisoning by ivy, poison oak, 
and other poison vines and plants, is good rich butter milk in which you have 



MEDICAL. ll'"^! 



l,c>ateii some groeu tansy leaves until the milk is thoroughly tinctured Bathe 
the parts often (indeed you could not do it too olten,) until reheyed. ^\ et 
a dotirwi?! the mixture at night, and lay on, wetting as otten as itfee dry 
Or tike bromo-chloralum, oz. iv ; vinum opu oz. i] ; aquoe oz. vj. Bathe he 
pirtsfreeiy ^'ith this and it will relieve the itching at once. It is good in 
urticaria. 

Maqic Lmiment.-¥ov sprains ana inflamaiion this is very ^ood for ani- 
m-ils and without turpentine, very good for man : Two ounces od ot spike, 
i^ ounces oil of origiuim, two ounces oil of hemlock, two ounces ot worm- 
wood two ounces of spirit of ammonia, two ounces of gum camphor, two ot 
siSits of turpentine ami four ounces of sweet oil and one quart of best alco- 
hol Mix "veil and bottle tightlv. A little well rubbed m is a hue stimula- 
ting linament. 

French Remedy for Chronic Rheumatism.-T)T. Bonnet of Craulbet, France 
states Tn a letter to the "AbeiUe Medicale," that he has been long m the 
habk of prescribing "the essential oil of turpentine by friction tor rheunia- 
ism and that he has used it himself with perfect success, having almost in- 
stantaneously got rid of rheumatic pains in both Imees andm the left shoul- 
der." 

Maanetic Ointment Equal to Trash's.— TLard raisins cut in pieces, and fine- 
rut tolXco equal weights ; simmer well together, then strain, and press out 
ilfiwt^ie'dSgs. This is excellent for external appl cations, for eold m 
Ihe ea<l applvhig to the temples, outside and inside of nose, and forehead. 
1 pSinS(\e%)f nose it clears tl^^^ sneezing. It is also good for 

n-oup if applied tirst to the throat and afterward to the chest. 

Chapped IIands.-^yhen the hands show signs of cracking wash tnem 
clean with mild soap and soft warm water. Kmse in l,m-ax water anclthor- 
; fohlv drv them Then anoint them with vaseline or petroleum jelly, which 
an be procured at any drug store. Dry it by the fire and a cure is sure to 
Slow. This vaseline never fails. AVith it ^he skm .can he kept soft and 
velvety all the time. 

Mij<itard Plasters .—Mi^ with boiling water, vinegar, or wnite of an egg 
(the Utter is best when a blister is not wanted) to consistency the same asi 
ofthe table. Some add a little flour when not wanted too strong. Spread 
on haH a thin muslin eloth, cover with the other halt, ov put on cloth, and 
put over it a thin piece of gauze; apply, and when removed, wash the skm 
with a soft sponge, and apply a little sweet cream or oil. 

finrains —If a sprain is nothing more than a sprain— that is if no Dones 
are bK or put out-wrap the parts in several folds ot flannel which has 
been wmng out of hot water, and cover it with a dry bandage, and rest it tor 
some days, or even weeks. Entire rest at first, ana moderate rest afterward 
are absoiu elv necessary after a sprain. If t is m the ankle the foot should 
hP ra sed as high as may be comfortable ; if m the wrist, it sliould be carried 
n ., slino- ' Or ^ilace in hot water three minutes then in cold three minutes, 
and so alternate four or five times, then bind up in a hot compress It the 
sprafn is in knee or where it cannot be immersed, wrap in hot cloths for three 
minutes then in cold, etc. 

For Burns or 5nmes.-Appiy peach treeleaves, smooth side next to the 
skin and bind them on ; or wet cloth and sprinkle it with carbonate ot soda 
^.ommon cookin- soda and bind it on the burn. It quickly s ops the pam 
mTsTLXlSs and thorough remedy. If no cloth is at hand, wet the part 
imrnecf and sprinkle dry soda on it. For l)urns where there is danger ot mor- 



1152 MEDICAL. 



tification, or even if it has already begun bind on strips of clotli dipped in 
clean tar. 

Cure for LocK-Jaw, said to be positive. — Let any one who has an attack of 
lock-jaw take a small quantity of spirits of turpentine, warm it, and pour it 
on the wound — no matter where the wound is, or what its nature is — and re- 
lief is said to follow in less than a minute. Turpentine is also a soverei<^n 
remedy for croup. Saturate a piece of flannel with it, and place the flannel 
on thethroat and chest — and in very severe cases three to five drops on a lump 
of sugar may be taken internally. 

Soft Water and Cholera. — A distinguished physician gives it as his opininn 
that the habitual use of pure soft water, or from wells in a locality where the 
rocks are freestone, will prevent the cholera. He says that cholera has al- 
ways prevailed in a limestone region, among families using hard water, while 
those using soft water in same neighborhoods escaped, and those living in 
freestone regions only a few miles away were also exempt from attacks. Soft 
water from cisterns should be filtered before using. 

Cough Mixture. — Dissolve one-fourth pound gum-arabic in half pint boil- 
ing water, add a half tea-cup sugar and honey, and two talile-spoons lemon 
juice, steep for five or ten minutes ; bottle and cork, add water, and take ; or 
boil one ounce each of licorice-stick and anise-seed, and half ounce senna in 
one quart of water, ten minutes ; strain, add two tea-cups molasses or honey, 
])oil down to a pint and then bottle; or, to one pint whiskey add one-half 
pound rock candy and two ounces glycerine. 

Drunkenness. — There is a prescription in use in England for the cure of 
drunkenness, by which thousands are said to have been assisted in recover- 
ing themselves. It is as follows : Sulphate of iron, five grains; peppermint 
water, eleven drachms ; spirit of nutmeg, one drachm ; twice a day. This 
preparation acts as a stimulant and tonic, and partially supplies the place of 
the accustomed liquor, and prevents that absolute physical and moral pros- 
tration that follows a sudden cessation from the use of stimulating drinks. 

Belief for Burning Feet. — To relieve burning feet, first discard tight boots ; 
then take one pint of bran and one ounce of bicarbonate of soda, put in afoot- 
bath, add one gallon of hot water; when cool enough, soak your feet in this 
mixture for fifteen minutes. The relief is instantaneous, this must be pre- 
pared every night for a week or perhaps more. The bran and bicarbonate 
should be made fresh after a week's use. Bicarbonate of soda can be pur- 
chased for a small price per pound from wdiolesale druggists. The burning 
sensation is produced by the pores of the skin being closed, so that the feet 
do not perspire. 

Catarrh. — AVet and coid at tne surface of the body is a cause of catarrh, 
but the most fruitful source is wet and cold feet, and yet there is nothing more 
easy to avoid. Warm socks, horsehair soles, and goloshes will always keep the 
feet dry and warm. It does not seem to be iinderstood that although a boot 
or shoe may not leak, yet if the sole is damp, it by evaporation conducts 
away the heat from the foot, and ought never to be worn when not exercising. 
The neck should be covered lightly, but too much covering predisposes to ca- 
tarrhal troubles by causing congestion of the memljrane affected in this dis- 
ease. Bed-rooms'ought to be well aired, and warmed if possible, by an open 
fire, in damp, chilly weather. 

Clover Tea. — Gather the blossoms of red clover, when beginning to bloom, 
and dry for use, putting away in tight paper sacks. A tea made from these 
blossoms is excellent for "hives," cancer, or any disease of a scrofulous na- 
ture. The essence of clover is sometimes used instead of the tea, and is kept 



MEDICAL. 1153 

at drug stores. It is also good for sickness at the stomach. The tea may be 
made of the fresh blossoms also. For cancer the tea is given in large qnan- 
tities, some patients drinking a gallon a day every day for a year before feel- 
ing certain of cure. This is largely prescribed by physicians. 

Taper Lights. — The best light for a sick room is furnished by the tapers 
which come in boxes ^bought at any drug store) in a vase or a tumbler of 
lard-oil. The taper is simply a small wick set in a tiny piece of wood. In 
tlie box of tapers is a float — a three-cornered frame of tin with a bit of cork 
on each corner. This is placed on the surface of the oil, and the taper set on 
it, the bottom of the wood resting in the oil It may then be lighted, and 
produces an agreeable light, without smoke or smell, and sufficient for the 
purposes of the sick-room or nursery, and yet not so glaring as to be disa- 
greeable. All persons accustomed to" light in the sleeping-room will find 
this much better than a lamp turned low. The tumbler may be half full of 
water with oil on top. 

Healing Salve for Wounds.— Vint olive-oil, half ounce common resin, half 
ounce beeswax ; melt well together, and bring all to boiling heat ; add grad- 
ually of pulverized red lead— three-eighths of a pound (for summer use a trifle 
more lead) ; in a short time after it is taken up by the oil, and the mixture be- 
comes brown or a shining black, remove from the fire, and when nearly cold 
add two scruples pulverized camphor. It should remain on the fire until it 
attains a proper consistency for spreading, which may be known by dipping 
a splint or knife in the mixture from time to time, and allowing it to cool. 
When used spread thinly on a piece of tissue paper or old, fine linen. Ex- 
cellent for frost sores or a'ny kind that are hard to heal. 

How to Distinguish Raphes. — Measles appear as a number of dull red 
spots, in many places running into each other, and is usually first seen about 
the face, and on the forehead, near the roots of the hair, and is often preced- 
ed by running of the eyes and nose, and all the signs of severe cold. Scarlet 
fever appears first about the neck and chest, but not unfrequently at the bend 
of the elbow or under the knee, and is usually preceeded by sore throat. It 
can be distinguished from roseola — a mild disease, which is sometimes mis- 
taken for it — by the bright red color of the skin, which appears not unlike a 
boiled lobster. In chicken-pox the symptoms are attended by fever, the spots 
are small, separate pimples, and come generally over the whole body. 

Hot Water as Medicine. — Consumptives and dyspeptics find great relief 
in drinking, or rather slowly sipping, hot water an hour before eating. It 
should be as hot as can be taken. Sips of hot water are also good where the 
stomach is weak, as in convalescence after illness. In a severe case of dys- 
pepsia, the patient began by taking six teaspoons of hot water three times a 
day, and has gradually increased the amount with the greatest benefit. 
Hot water is also excellent in cases of sick stomach, and may be taken when 
no nourishment of any kind can be retained in the stomach. In giving to a 
child, and it is very beneficial to them, give with a spoon and have a cup of 
cold water in which to dip spoon before taking up the hot water, as by con- 
stant dipping in hot water the metal becomes too hot for the little ones and 
they will not take the water hot enough fearing the spoon. 

Cubeb Berries for Catarrh. — A new remedy for catarrh is crushed cubeb 
berries smoked in a pipe, emitting the smoke through the nose ; after a few 
trials this will be easy to do. If the nose is stopped up so that it' is almost 
impossible to breathe, one pipeful will make the head as clear as a bell. For 
sore throat, asthma, and bronchitis, swallowing the smoke eff"ects immedi- 
ate relief. It is the best remedy in the world for oflfensive breath, and will 
make the most foul breath pure and sweet. Sufferers from that horrid dis- 



1154 MHDICAL. 

ease, ulcerated catarrh, will find this remedy unequaled, and a naonth's use 
will cure the most obstinate case. A single trial will convince anyone. Eat- 
ing the uncrushed berries is also good for sore throat and all bronchial com- 
plaints. After smoking, do not expose yourself to cold air for at least fifteen 
minutes. 

To Cure a Cold. — A bad cold should be "nipped in the bud." To do this 
no me<licine is required. A person who finds he has taken cold should bun- 
dle up unusually warm in bed, with a liottle of hot water at his feet. The 
fibject is to create a mild perspiration the entire night. Before dressing in 
the morning take a sponge bath in cold water and apply friction to the skin 
until it is in a glow. The cold, probably will then have disappeared, but if 
not follow the same course another night. But this remedy must be applied 
jiromptly after noting the first indications. — such as sneezing or running at 
the nose ; if left a day or two the cold will be sure to run its course. Often 
toasting the feet the whole evening by the fire will answer the purpose. 

For Diarrhea. — Stir lightly into teacupful cold water the white of one egg 
not beaten. This forms a ccating on the stomach, and is also nourishing, and 
is good in any disease where patient can not eat. Another delicate prepara- 
tion for a weak stomach is slippery-elm gruel : Mix fine slippery-elm flour 
with colcl water, then stir into boiling water till thickness of gruel. Charcoal 
crackers are of great value in assisting digestion, In diarrhea the most im- 
portant item is absolute quiet on a bed. Bits of ice may be eaten and swal- 
lowed at will. Vjut drink litttle liquid of any kind. If compelled to be on tlie 
feet, bind a strong piece of woolen flannel tightly around the aV>domen, hav- 
ing it double in front. For diet, use rice parched like coff"ee, boiled and eat- 
en with a little salt and butter. Some advise making a tea of it, and also 
using boiled milk and mutton broth, with crisped white crackers, for chil- 
dren. Or, use ice-cold enemas after each movement of the bowels — a tea- 
spoon for a babe, increasing in that proportion till, for an adult, a bulbful is 
given. This is good in cases of dysentery, etc. 

For Sore Throat — Rub on the outside, and wet cloth in Pond's Extract, 
and gargie with it also, taking from one to ten drops four times a day. An- 
other excellent remedy is camphor diluted with water till it can be used as a 
gargle. Another remedy is to put on a strip of flannel thin slices of fat pork, 
and sprinkle very thick vi-ith black pepper and place around the throat, or 
chop fat pork and onions together, about half and half, and put in sack and 
pat on ; or bathe throat in coal oil, also, in diphtheria, some have used with 
benefit bits of ice kept constantly in the mouth for as long as seven hours ; 
or gargle with lemon juice, occasionally swallowing some. Or a bran mash 
is excellent — that is, bran with boilingwater poured over it, and put on when 
just warm enough to feel agreeable. In putting it on, spread the poultice in 
a thin cloth, and lay it on a handkerchief folded corner wise, and the corners 
of the handkerchief over the head ; then the poultice will touch the tender 
places, which it cannot do if it is simply bound straight around the throat. 
The sufferer from sore throat should eat nothing which could scratch it, like 
dry toast. Soft boiled eggs, soft toast, and diet of that kind should be in- 
dulged in, and the drinks should be merely warm — not too hot or cold. 

67<'epZessnf.ss.— The loss of power to cast off" the burden of the day, and 
find rest at.night, is one of the greatest of personal afliictions ; yet, it is safe 
to say that wakefulness at night is an acquired habit, which can be overcome, 
like other bad habits, if not too long indulged. Let any adult person awake, 
say at midnight, and "get to thinking" for an hour or two ; do this the fol- 
lowing three or four nights ; he will find that it will then require a powerful 
effort of the will to resist doing the same thing for several nights thereafter. 



MEDICAL. 115,5 



A person Should never give way to the dangerous habit of lying awake at 
nights ; for that is exactly what it is, a dangerous habit, and nothing else. 

Gold^n_ Omtment.-One pound lard, eight ounces beeswax, one ounce cam- 
pi or gum 111 five ounces alcohol, one ounce origanum, one ounce laudanum ; 

c il n, fT ''' \ "" '"•;*"'" ^t"- ^^'"'^ '"^'^ beeswax, then stir together until 
cold, 01 the camphor will go off in a steam. Do not mix too hot^ This will 
cure pam in the side by applying as a plaster. For enlarged neck or goitre 
dilute with one-fourth iodine. For salt-rheum, applv externallv and t-ike 
ca harticstocleanse the blood. For scald-head. rulAI^getlK-rone ouAc ":^.>lden 
ointment and three draxdims of red precipitate ; remove the hair and rub with 
t us twice a day, each day washing with castile soap suds. For catarrli rub 
the ointment up in the nose profusely, and let it remain all ui-ht. In the 
morning draw cold water up the nose and throw it back two or three times 
to clean the tul)ernated bones. Also bathe the face and ears with col.l water. 
Chrotiic Inflammation of the Stomach.— Thm is known by a pain in the 
stomach, increased by the presence of food, bv belching up gas, bv vomitin- 
hckle appetite, seasons of thirst, tongue white in the center an.f red at tip' 
or sometimes red and smooth-is a disease which soon ends in ulceration 
of stomach, and death. Counter-irritants over the stomach, such as mustard 
draughts, followed by hot fomentations of liops ; frequent warm or cold baths 
according to patient's constitution ; a tei)id compress worn over the stomach 
at night; and the most careful diet, consisting mostlv of gum water rice 
<dnt^.n n !l'?l?T "" water and gruel, arrowroot gruel, toast without butter, 
gluten mush, etc., and m two or three weeks the disease will vield under 
this persistent starving and cooling system. 

BnghVs Diseme.-Dv. Arthur Scott Dorkin extols a skim-milk diet in 
this disease The first appreciable action," he says, "of skim-milk taken to 
the extent of six or seven pints daily, is that of a most energetic diure ic 
a profuse flow of urine being rapidly produced. The eff-ex^t of this in 
Bright s disease, is to to flush the uriniferous tubules, and to dislodge an.l 
wash out the concrete casts of diseased epithelial cells ))v which the • ro 
blocked up and distented. The emptying of tlie tubules relieves their 
pressure on the surrounding secondary capillaries, the blood betrins to flow 
inore freely through them, the dist«ision of the primarv malpi-hiTn c - 
pillaries is re leyed ; less and less albumen escapes thr'ou-h th^ir walls 
until the renal circiilation is gradually restored, when it flnalv disappears 
from the urine. While this beneflcial change is progressing, liealthv (4.T- 
thehum IS developed in the tubules, and the urinarv excrement is withdrawn 
roni the blood. In short, a healthy nutrition becomes re-establishe in 
the kidneys through the agency of milk, which above a-11 other substances 
seems to exercise a controlling influence over this process. 

_ For a CoM^/t.-Simmer together a handful each of hoarhouud and mul- 
lein leaves in a quart of soft water till all the strength is extracted Cidd 
more water if neccessary) ; then strain and add to it one quart of Orleans 
molasses. Dose, one tablespoonful three times a dav. Or for hoarseness 
wet a piece of cotton.batting on the inside, wrap it'around a lemon and 
cover with ashes and coals to roast as you would roast a po'ato ; let it roast 
from fifteen totAventy minutes; take out, clip ofl^ one end, st.ueeze out tl'ie 
]uice, and strain it through a tliin cloth to remove anv see<ls or particles of 
pulp. There wdl be from four to five teaspoonsfuls of juice, which mix 
with an e.pial quantity of strained honey (to strain warm and strain thron<d'i 
a tJiin cloth); or, instead of honey, add three teaspoonfuls of granulate.l 
sugar plac-e the cup in a pan of hot water, set on stove until sugar is dis- 
solved, iakeone or two teaspoonfuls everv hour, or after a spellof cou.di- 
ing, lor a child add a larsjer proportion of honev and sugar, and eive a 
tjuarter teaspoonful everv two hours. ' . ^ ' ^ ^ u 



1156 . MEDICAL. 



}\lioopi7ig-cough. — Children do not "whoop" for two or three weeks after 
taking tliis disease. The most reliable symptons are : eyes red and watery 
when they cough, and the cough clinging to the patient with a firm grasp. It 
lasts from six weeks to three months, according to season when taken, and 
can be given during the first two months. It is not carried in clothes, but 
when a child gets the breath of a whoo[)ing-cough patient then he will take 
it. iSome of the remedies are, to give drinks of water as hot as they can be 
taken, in the evening and with first symptoms of a coughing spell — this 
makes the cough easier ; another is, to take scant tea-cup whole fiax-seed, 
wash it thoroughly, add one lemon sliced and quart of water, simmer genth' 
two hours, add two tablespoons of honey, then strain when hot. It should 
be like thick molasses ; if too thick, add water. Give one tablespoonful four 
times a day, and one after each severe fit of coughing. (This is also good for 
an ordinary cold and cough. ) The system of the patient needs to be built up, 
and for that purpose give two oil-baths a week ; also good, nourishing food, 
such as Graham or oatmeal mush, coarse bread, milk, etc. ; and keep child 
out doors as much as possible, using great care no cold is taken. Some, when 
the breathing is very bad, put a hot mustard and oatmeal poultice on the 
chest. In cities, a daily visit to the gas works has been said to abate the 
violence of the disease. A new remedy is to fumigate patient with burning 
sulphur, then remove him and more thoroughly fumigate the room. Redress 
patient in clean, well-aired clothes and return to fumigated room. Do this 
twice a week if necessary. 

For Constipation. — The same remedies will not effect all persons. One or 
two figs eaten fasting is sufficient for some, and they are especially good in 
the cases of children, as there is no trouble in getting them to take them. A 
spoon of wheaten bran in a glass of water is a simple remedy and quite effec- 
tive. One or two tumblers of hot water will mo^■e almost every one, but is 
difficult to take. In chronic cases a faithful manapulation and moving of 
bowels and limbs with gentle rotary movement with the open palm, and giv- 
ing all natural motions to the parts, with proper diet, will almost invariabh' 
secure the desired result. It has been known to cure a case of life-long habit, 
where inherited, too, and although it involves patience and perseverence, is 
is certainly better than to suffer the^ ills that result from so many patent 
medicines and quack nostrums. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure," and regularity of habit in this matter is the great thing to be im- 
pressed on people generally. Or, three tea-cups each of coarse, clean, wheat 
bran and sifted flour, three teaspoons baking powder, seven teaspoons good 
butter and one of salt. Mix with cold sweet milk ; roll third of an inch thick, 
cut with a biscuit tutter and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven ; or, pour 
hot water on tablespoon flax seed, pour ofl" and at once add three or four 
tablespoons of cold water, and drink. This is perfectly harmless and may 
betaken once, twice, or thrice a day if necessary; or, a teaspoon black 
mustard-seed taken every morning; or a glass of cold water taken at night 
and first thing in the morning. In rubbing the bowels with the hands al- 
ways rub from left to right. 

Toothache. — Place a small bit of zinc on one side of the gum, and a small 
silver coin on the other and bring the ebges together, electricity is generated 
and the pain ceases. Most toothache.is caused by cold. Fill the mouth full 
of raw cotton between the gum and the cheek and the gum and the tongue 
Put a piece of cotton on the outside of the face (moistened with some good 
liniment if you have it), then put a hot sand bag, or hot iron, to the face. 
Soon the clear water will commence to run out of the mouth fi-eely, and the 
pain is relieved. For iVeMra?_(7ia apply a tuning fork, while fibrating, over 
the course of the painful nerve, continue about lialf an hour. 



ITEDICAL. 



1157 



Inhalationof Tar for Con$umption.—Wni together sixteen ounces of liquid 
tar and one fluid ounce liquor of pottassa, boil them for a few minutes m the 
open air. then let it simmer in an iron vessel over a spirit or other lamp in 
the chamber of the patient. This may at first excite a disposition to cough, 
but in a short time it allays it, and removes any tendency to it. Or the toi- 
lowing is said to be an efl^ectual remedy. Live temperately, avoid spirituous 
liquors, wear flannel next the skin, and take, every morning, half a pint ot 
new milk, mixed with a wine glassful of the expressed juice of green hoar- 
hound. One who has tried it, says, "Four weeks' use of the hoarhound and 
milk relieved the pains in my breast, gave m.e ability to breathe deep, long 
and free, strengthened and harmonized my voice, and restored me to a bet- 
ter state of health than I had enjoyed for years." The French method is 
ode-half pound finely cut up fre^h beefsteak ; one drachm pulverized char- 
coal • four ounces pulverized sugar ; four ounces rye whiskey ; one pint boil- 
ing water. Mix all together, let it stand in a cool place over night, and give 
from one to two teaspoons liquid and meat before each meal. The dose 
should be small at first, until the stomach becomes used to it, then gradually 
increased. But one of the most simple of remedies and one that has been 
found beneficial is the leaves and flowers of the common mullein. Make a 
stronc' tea of the fresh or dried leaves (best when gathered from plants m 
blossSm) and drink freely. Continue from three to six months according to 
the severity of the disease. This remedy is "good for the blood" also, build- 
ing up the system, and making good blood, and taking away the mflamation 
from the lungs. , , ^ .^ 

Good Cures for Croup.— Boil pigs' feet in water, witbout salt, and let it 
stand over ni«^ht: in the morning skim off" the fat (which will be formed in 
ft cake on top!, put in a tin pan, boil until all water is evaporated ; bottle, and 
keen for use Give a teaspoon every fifteen minutes on the appearance of 
the first symptoms, and apply freely to chest and throat, rubbing weH. A 
celebrated physician says that a child cannot have the croup if pigs feet ml 
is administer/d at the first symptoms. Or, warm a teaspoon with a it le 
lard in it or goose grease ; thicken with sugar, and give it to the chil.l , it 
mav produce vomiting, which is always desirable, thus breakmg up the mem- 
brane that is forming. Apply lard or goose grease to throat and chest, with 
raw cotton or flannel Care must be taken, removing onlv a small piece at 
at me of these extra wraps to prevent taking cold Or take a knife or grate 
and shave off- in small particles about a teaspoonful of alum; then mix it 
with twice its quantity of molasses, to make it palatab e and administer it 
Ts qu ck as pos^sible. ^Almost instantaneouslv relief will follow by vomiting. 
Another remedy given by a writer of professed experience is to first get a piece 
of chamois skin make a little bib,cut out neck and sew on tapes o tie it, on ; 
?hen melt together some tallow and pine tar ; rub some of this on chamois and 
let SS child wear it all the time. My baby had the croup whenever she took 
rold and since I put on the chamois I have had no more trouble. Renew 
with tar occasionallv. Or to one-half cup N. O. molasses add a teaspoon 
Toda beat to a white froth, and give a teaspoon every few minutes till re- 
febf vomiting or. one part^ulverizecfalum to t«-o parts white sugar, 
ind ^ive in same wav ; or grease a cloth (made in the shape of a bib) thor- 
oSiTv anddS thiclly with nutmeg, and put on over throat and chest, 
SSi there seems any tendensy to hoarseness in afternoon, croup generally 
deve owLg at iSdniglt, keeping it on for several days after the child is well, 
ardXen taken off put on a flannel cloth for a few davs and then some 
morning take this o&and bathe well in cold water and rub dry ; or take four 
Tfive honvhock blossoms, boil, and apply wet around the throat ; or applv 
hot fermentations to the throat and chest, sponge oft with tepid water rub 
drv and apply oil and ammonia ; or some apply cold wet clottis over throat 
S chest covering well with flannel , changing often until mflamation is sub 



1158 MEDICAL. 



dued. From two years to eight is the croup period ; and when a cold assumes 
croupy symptoms great care should be taken to keep the child indoors, in a 
warm, well-ventilated room, giving good food, no meats, hot bread or ber- 
ries. (Raw or cooked onions are good as a preventive of either worms or 
croup.) A remedy said to give relief where other means fail, is to let a healthy 
person fill his lungs with pure air, then slowly breath upon the patient's 
throat and chest, commencing at the point ol the chin and moving slowly 
down to the bottom of the windpipe. 

Cure for Felon. — "When a felon first makes its appearance, take the inside 
skin of an egg-shell, and wrap it around the part affected. When the press- 
iire becomes too painful, wet it with water, and keep it on twelve hours ; or 
roast or bake thoroughly a large onion ; mix the soft inner pulp with two 
heaping tablespoons of table salt, and apply the mixture to the affected parts 
as a poultice, keeping the parts well covered. Make fresh applications at 
least twice a day, morning and evening, and a cure will follow in at least a 
week. Or take a pint of common soft soap and stir in air slackd lime till it is 
of the consistency of glazier's putty. Make a leather thimble, fill it with this 
composition and insert the finger therein, and the cure is certain. Or, one 
teaspoon of scorched salt, one teaspoon corn meal, one teaspoon of scraped 
hard soap, one teaspoon of beet leaves pounded up, twelve drops of turpen- 
tine, and the yolk of one egg. Mix all ingredients together in the form of a 
poultice, in which bind closely the swollen finger. Or procure five or six 
lemons, cut off the end of one, thrust the sore linger into the lemon and let 
it stay till the lemon is warm ; proceed in the same way till all the six are 
used. Or, put a piece of Spanish-fiy plaster over the spot affected, and that 
will draw the trouble to the surface ; or, on first appearance, apply a poultice 
of the common Fleur de Lis root well mashed. It will cure in a short time. 
Or tSke equal parts of gum camphor, opium, castile soap, brown sugar; wet 
to a ])aste with spirits of turpentine, and apply like a salve. Those who have 
tried it say it is an invaluable remedy. Or take common rock-salt, such as 
is used in salting down beef or pork, and mix with spirits of turpentine in 
equal parts, and as it gets dry put on more, and in twenty-four Imursyou are 
cured. Or when you feel a felon is coming, put a pint tin of boiling water 
on the stove ; then add to that a teaspoonful of saleratus and a wine glass of 
vinegar; heat this every little while, say from half an hour to an hour, and 
liold your finger in it till the pain subsides ; repeat this till you see all the 
matter drawn to one place ; then have it opened, and your finger will heal. 
After a felon has been lanced, apply a poultice of equal parts of flaxseed and 
slippery-elm flour to take out inflamation. Or use the Buckeye Salve made by 
taking "two pounds of fat from the outside of ham or smoked meat, six onions, 
resin and beeswax, each the size of an egg (use the common dark resin and 
wax, and for summer use increase the proportion of both). Fry ham fat 
until partly done, add onions sliced, fry to a light brown, skim out onions, 
press through a colander, and add this to lard in skillet ; add resin and wax, 
heat and stir until thoroughly dissolved, and pour into a pan to cool. Like 
all salve, it must be kept closely covered or it will lose its strength, but if 
well covered will keep a year. A mother writes, "I never feel safe without 
a supply of it in the house, and have found that my children seldom need any 
other medicine. I use it in croup, lohooping cough, diphtheria, colds, scarlet 
fever, kntg fever, asthma, felons, boils, healing!' of all kinds, burns, and sore and 
inflamed breasts. For the first seven, it is Spread on a fine piece of Canton 
flannel and placed over the entire chest, and in severe cases over the back 
also, joining them on the shoulders and under the arms. It should l)e put on 
thick and covered with flannel or cotton batting. Keep on until it gives re- 
lief, or if it becomes uncomfortable or rough, remove, and app'y afresh poul- 
tice if necessary. It is cooling in its nature and very quieting. For burns 



MEDICAL. 1159 

and healings it should be used in the form of a poultice, also for sore throat. 
My phj-sicians have always encouraged its use for the above complaints. For 
breasts, cut a piece of cloth round with a hole in the center for the infant, 
then cover tlie breast entirely over with the cloth on which the salve has 
been spread." 

ScarJrt Fever, or Scarlatina. — When to the feeling of generallllness which 
accompanies all fever.- is added avery rapid pulse, 120-130 and a temperature 
of 100°-104°-iU5°, ana there is a dry, hot feeling in the throat, with tonsils 
red and swollen, and distress on trying to swallow, it is safe to suspect an 
infectious disease, and probably scarlet fever. The sick person shoukl be 
isolated at once in a room as much apart from the other members as possible, 
the higher up in the house the better, and a good physician sent fur. 

The rash generally appears ab6ut the second day, beginning on the neck 
and chest, and extending over the whole body, the deepest color being on the 
neck the outer side of the limbs, the joints, hands and feet. The cheeks are 
a bright, deep red. The case having been declared to be scarlet fever, all 
precautions given tor iniectious diseases, as regards isolation and disinfection, 
must be observed. 

The room should be kept at an even temperature of 65^' ; light a fire, if 
possible, and leave the window down an inch at the top. Throw the window- 
open and change the air entirely twice a day, covering the patient head and 
all at the time and until the room is again warm. Do not be afraid of fresh, 
dry outside air, but be sure that the patient is covered head and all, so that 
no" cold air is breathed, while you are airing and warming the room. 

Give the patient once or twice daily, a warm sponge or plunge bath, as 
directed by the physician, being careful that he is covered with a blanket 
during the bathing, thrown over the bed or tub; dry quickly with warm, 
soft towels, and as the pitient lies in bed, rub the entire surface of the body 
with vaseline, cocoa-oil or whatever oil the physician orders. The old-fash- 
ioned oiling with ham rinds being very efficient. The bed clothing should 
be warm, but never heavy ; keep the feet and legs warm. 

Gruels, milk, simple broth, etc., are generally enough. When there is 
exhauotion from fever, the doctor will give orders as to stimul iting nourish- 
ment. Cold water or weak lemonade may be given freely, unless the doctor 
orders differently. 

Keep the patient strictly in bed ; make use of the bed pan and unnal to 
prevent getting up. Guard in every way a check of perspiration. If the pa- 
tient is proped up in bed, see that a short jacket or small shawl is put over 
the night-dress, but use nothing that can not be washed. 

Notice the breathing at night or in sleep, whether it is even and deep, 
or short and labored, as if there were trouble witii the air-passages. Be par- 
ticularly watchful of the condition of the excretions, especially of the urine ; 
should it become scanty or smoky colored, report it at once to the physician. 
Observe whether their is a free though seemingly harmless discharge from 
the nose ; this may indicate diphtheritic trouble. See whether there is any 
swelling of limbs. In short there is nothing which must not be observed 
with care, and reported accurately to the doctor. 

The skin becomes dry and generally begins to scale ofi" about the fifth 
day after the rash api)ears. No patient should be allowed to leave his bed 
until this process is completed. The warm baths should b^kept up, the least 
chilfiness guarded against, and the temperature of the room allowed now to 
be 70°, After the peeling is over the patient should still remain fn his room 
for two weeds, and should be separate from other members of tho family not 
less than a month from the commencement of the disease. Severe cases of 
scarlet fever may follow from exposure to light ones. See that the patient is 
well wrapped, with hands and feet protected, on first going into the open air. 



1160 MEDICAL. 

The troubles which may arise out of an attack are frequently the result 
of carelessness on the part of the nurse, neglect of orders, exposure to cold, 
etc. There can not be too much care taken of the lightest case. A bad attack 
will compel attention, but "slight cases," so called, are often neglected with 
fatal results, or life-long deafness or other disability. Dropsy, malignant sore 
throat, diseases of the kidneys, weakness of the lungs, pleurisy and many 
other maladies, lie in wait for the scarlet fever patients. 

The Treatment of Diphtheria. — The symptoms of diphtheria are much like 
a common sore throat accompanied by a severe cold. The sore throat is ac- 
companied with more fever than an ordinary cold, and there is an indescrib- 
able sickish feeling, which is easily recognized by those who have once 3X- 
Eeriencecl it. Later, white patches appear in tae throat, on the tonsils, :he 
ack of the throat, and on tiie arches of the palate. The throat is generally 
but little swollen on the outside, but in all cases "vhen there is a suspicion n 
diphtheria, it is not safe to delay sending for a physician, as the disease ioes -.ts 
.work quickly, and must be dealt with in time or it i$ fatal. There are reaily 
three varieties of the disease. The first is characterized by fever, severe 
pains in back and limbs, and very great prostration. There may be no 3ore- 
jness of the throat, but small white specks will be noticed on the tonsils and 
iback of the throat ; but the glands of the neck do not become swollen. In the 
third, which is the true malignant diphtheria, there is swelling of the glands 
of the neck and under jaw, profuse and offensive discharges from the mouth 
and throat, and more or less discharge from the nostrils. In the first two 
varieties, the disease generally yields to simple treatment, 6ui the disease is too 
subtle and dangerous to be trifled with, and a physician should be summoned. 
One of the best remedies for domestic use in the early stages of the disease, 
is, probably, chlorate of potash, put into a tumbler of water until no more 
will dissolve, and used as a gargle. If swallowed it is harmless. It is cheap 
— five to ten cents worth being sufficient for almost any case, and it may be 
kept in the house for emergencies. It is also an excellent remedy, used as a- 
bove described, for ordinary sore throat. In the case of children too young 
to use the gargle, make a swab on the end of a firm round stick, by binding 
on a small i:>iece of linen or cotton cloth ; use only once and burn it, i. e. the 
rag. Take the handle of a teaspoon and press the tongue down so as to see 
plainly the condition of the throat ; swab yiickly and draw out, Do not worry 
the child by poking the stick down its throat a half dozen times, make a 
sure thing the firsttime, for if you touch the affected parts, well ; better do 
it again in two hours. Dip swab in a reparation (which may also be used 
as a gargle) of alcohol, diluted with water, but as strong as the patient can bear. 
The alcohol acts quickly upon the poison of the disease, and is a remedy 
easily obtained and kept at hand. When attacked with diphtheria, the pa- 
tient should be kept in bed with sufficient clothing over the body for comfort 
and no more. The room should be well supplied with pure air, and nouirsh- 
ment should be given in the shape of well-prepared beef-tea every two hours. 
Cut fresh beef into pieces, put into a bottle without water, and boil in a pot 
of water. To an adult give a great spoonful of the beef tea thus made, every 
two hours, and less in proportion to age. If this does not agree with the pa- 
tient, or there is any difficulty in the patient's swallowing it, substitute the 
white of an egg ; beat till smooth, mix with half a tumbler of water, and give 
a tablespoon at a tiioe. This is very nourishing, and is often taken more 
readily than beef-tea. It is particularly important to nourish the patient with 
proper supplies of food in the early stages of the disease, as there is danger that 
the supply of vitalized blood will not be sufficient to meet the demand made 
by the disease. Plenty of milk is highly nutritious. 

The homeopathic treatment is to begin at once with aconite and bella- 
d(jnna, alternately every hour. If after four hours there ia no improvement. 



MEDICAL. . 1161 

and the characteristic prostration, and the patches on the tonsils are increas- 
ing, stop the aconite, and supply its place with the proto-iodide of mercuriiii^. 
Let those two remedies be continted until there is a marked change for 
better or worse. If for the former, let the intervals be increased to one and 
a half or two hours ; for the latter, and there is approaching unconsiousness, 
with frequent arousing to cough up or hawk up the detached fragments of 
the deposits, that brings up tough, ropy, yellowish mucus, give kali bichom- 
icum alone every hour. When the patient becomes really better, stop and 
give no more medicine while the improvement goes on satisfactorily. 

One reason why it is important to summon a physician as soon as the 
symptoms of the disease appear, is that many cases which appear slight, at 
first, are really most serious and fatal, while a common sore throat excites tlie 
greatest alarm, the judgement of the physician being necessary to decide the 
amount of danger in the case. 

In some cases dry sulphur, applied to the tonsils and throat gives relief, 
and in violent cases the fumes of sulphur, burned in the close room, have 
been used with good effect. An outward application to the throat,- of lard 
as hot as it can be borne, is an aid to the other remedies mentioned. 

To avoid all causes of Diphllieria, keep the house free from dirt and filth of 
every kind from cellar to garret. See that no sewers give off gases, no drains 
are left filthy, and no out-house uncleaned, and bear in mind that it is not 
enough to destroy bad smells by disinfectants — the cause of the smells must 
be removed. 

A lady who had the courage and coolness to treat herself, through a sev- 
ere ease of diphlheria, when no physician was at hand, describes her case 
thus : "I first noticed spores (the characteristic white patches which appear 
on the throat) on my right tonsil at 9 a. m. By noon they had spread over the 
entire arch of the palate, and the back of the throat. Several of these were 
loosened before night, but during the night they had spread up the nose and 
down the bronchial tube. My palate and tonsils were so swollen that I could 
scarcely speak, and with difficulty swallow. The gland on the right side of 
neck was much swooUen, and ached, causing a dull pain in the ear. The 
breath had the unpleasant odor peculiar to the disease, and I had an intense, 
burning fever. / began my remedies as soon as I discovered the spores. I took a 
clav pipe, filled the bowl one-eighth full of dry sulphur, powdered very fine, 
and shook it down into the stem. I then placed the end of the stem in my 
throat, and held it there in front of the spore, while an attendant blew into 
the bowl, and repeated this until the whole diseased surface of tlie throat was cov- 
ered with dry sulphur, taking care to hold my breath while the sulphur was 
being blown in. In half an hour this was repeated. I then made a strong 
gargle of chlorate of pota-^h, and half an hour after usijig the last sulphur, 
gargled my throat thoroughly. I then alternated the sulphur with the gar- 
gle of chlorate of potash every hour. At night I mixed a tea-spoon of sulphur 
with water, and swallowed it slowly, and continued taking it in this way three 
times a day. Blowing sulphur into the throat, and gargUng with chlorate of 
potash was kept up regularly for four days, until every spore had disappeared , 
exactly as at first, except making the intervals longer as the disease abated. 
Whenever I felt them getting down the bronchial tube, I drew breath gently 
when the sulphur was being blown into my throat. It almost chocked me to 
death, but I persevered. For my uose I snuffed up sulphur, just as old ladies 
take snuff, until satisfied that every part was readied. When the spores 
came ofi' I watched for new ones, and did not relax my attention f(.)r one mo- 
ment for five days. When better, I made a gargle of honey, sage and water, 
to heal and remove the swelling in the throat. I afterward treated my hus- 
band successfully for the same disease, in the same way." Diphtheria is a 
disease which springs from the growth of real fungus on some of the mucuos 
surface* of the system, more generally of the throat, It may spread by cuu- 



1162 MEDICAL. 




tact of the mucous surfaces of a diseased with those of a healtliy person, as 
ii: kissing, and is, to a limited degree, epidemic. From the local pi;rts aff- 
ected it spreads to the whole body, affecting the muscular and nervous sys- 
tems, vitiating the lymph and nutrient fluids, and producing paralysis. As 
soon as the bacterium or fungus appears on the white patches on the throat, 
it should no more l)e neglected than a bleeding gash or a broken arm, and 
there is almost as little need of a fatal termination of one incident as of the 
other. 

Allnpathlc Treatment of Diphtheria. — One of the most successful physicians 
in treating this dreaded disease gives the following directions for dealing 
with it. Mothers should accustom themselves and their children when 
young to examine the throat for indications of diphtheria, 
and for this purpose a "tongue depresser." represented in 
accompanying cut is much more convenient than a spoon, 
especially in the ca^se of babies who are apt to resist having 
anything thrust into their mouths With this the tongue is 
easily drawn down, and does not slip from under it as it does 
from a spoon. It may be had from any druggist or dealer in 
surgical implements. The first yellowish white patches that 
indicate diphtheria appear on the tonsils on either side of 
palate, and mean danger and demand immediate and unremitted attention. If 
ivithin reach send for a phi/sician. The attack is almost as varied as is the 
temperament and constitution of the patient. Sometimes a slight feeling of 
illness is prevalent for a few days before the most serious attack. During this 
period drowsiness and chil iness appear, followed by feverishness, some- 
times headache and aching limbs; at other times the attack comes on with 
a sudden faintness or an almost absolute prostration ; while an almost univer- 
sal sym])tom, and a very characteristic one, is a slightly swollen and tender 
condition of glands at the angle of the lower jaw. The tonsils, one or both, 
are red and swollen; sometimes they are swollen but a;e not red. In 
young children an almost unmistakable sign, which is very general, is that 
the redness is a rose color, while in older children or adults the color is a 
deep crimson or bright scarlet, over the whole throat as seen by opening the 
mouth, the throat being attacked with the inflammation so that it s'lows it. 
These symptoms may be more or less general, or to a great extent mixed or 
variable, according to the phj'sical condition and temperament of the patient. 
After the appearance of this peculiar redness there is more or less swelling of 
the tonsils, at which time the false membrane first forms, and is semi-trans- 
]>arent. It can readily be seen by careful observation. As the disease wears 
on, this membrane, which is at first visible and semi-transparent, changes'its 
color and becomes partially opaque, finally becomes thick, dark, and if blood 
is drawn into it turns almost black. When the change from a darkened 
opaque membrane commences to turn black it is one of the first symptoms 
of a putrid state of the disease, and whep< this change takes place tliere is 
little or no help and decomposition ensues. At this stage even all hope 
must not Ije abandoned, because sometimes bloody matter is vomited, which 
to a great extent influences the color of the membrane. According to the 
strength of the patient this membrane is sooner or later throAvn off. This 
exfoliation or peeling oft" of the membrane sometimes takes place in every 
forty-eight to seventy-two hours, or about three days. At other times the 
l)rogress of the disease is impeded by proper treatment. The life of the 
membrane is lengthy, and it may he from five to fifteen, and it has been 
known not to peal off' under twenty days, Sometimes the meml)rane peels 
off in a few hours, forms again, each time going deeper into the tissues. In 
mild cases the disease shows itself in the faces alone. Whatever may be 
the cause of di])htheria, most medical men agree upon an important point: 
That it comes from a poison in the blood ; and that thorough cleanliness will 



Medical. llgjj 

not propogate it-we don't mean the use of soap or water— but of proper 
diec so that the stomach as well as the skin of the body shall be clean 
n;. J w?'' to begin fighting this disease is as soon as its nature is recog- 
nized When the patches of talse mem brane first make their appearance on 
the tonsils, give as a cathartic to a child of one year, a tea-spoon of Epsom 
salts tor hve or six years old, double above quantity. Next, mix thoroughly 

One dram chlorate of potash, ^ J utuu^uiy 

One and a half ounces of lime water, and 

One ounce of distilled water, and rub m a mortar until the chlorate of 
potash IS perfectly dissolved ; then add half an ounce pure glvcerine. Give 
to a child one .year old one_ tea-spoonful every hour in a little sweetened 
water. For a child five or six years old, or an adult, use two and a half 
ounces of liuie water, and omit the distilled water, and give as a dose a tea- 
spoonful and a halt for the child and two tea-spoonfuls for an adult. Do not 
wait for the cathartic to act before beginning with the remedv, but when it 
acts give the following every hour, also alternating with the above (with 
intervals of half an hour between doses of one or the'other) : 

One drain chloride ferri (iron), 

One and a half ounces distilled water. 

One and a half ounces pure glycerine. 

Mix thoroughly and give in sweetened water, and give as a dose the 
same quantity as the first prescription, keeping up the treatment for two 
davs During the night, if the case is severe, the patient should be wakened 
to administer the medicine, particularly if the sleep is at all restless or un- 
natural. 

For the first two days the disease may show no signs of abatement but 
under this treatment, at the end of thirtv-six hours, there ought to be im- 
ju'ovement. The tendency of the fever is to return on the third dav, and 
It the disease is not checked and the fever returns, it will be a fight for life 
but if at the end of thirty-six hours there is evident improvement o'ive the 
medicines every two hours (alternatelv giving one or the other everv hour) 
for several days. For a child old enough to use it, or for an adult, garc^le 
well, before taking medicine or nourishment, with the following, well mixe"cl • 

ritteen drops carbolic acid. 

Six ounces lime water. 

These remedies may be made up, corked securelv, and kept in a dark 
place, ready for use, m cases where a familv lives remote from a druo- store 
as time is an important element in treating this disease. For an o'utward 
application apply a mixture made of 

A tablespoonful of camphor, 

A half spoonful of turpentine, 

A half spoonful of coal oil. 

(For a child add a tablespoon of sweet-oil.) 

Apply tills to the throat, high up under the ears and down to the chest ; 
cover with dry flannels for a few minutes ; remove, and if not red, apply 
mixture again, and repeat until the skin is well reddened.. Then apply 
slices of fat salt pork (sewed on a piece of cloth) letting them cover well the 
front part of the neck and extend, up under the ears. The glvcerine arrests 
putrefaction, while the lime-water dissolves the false membrane A practice 
used by some is to blister the throat and chest of the jiatient suffering from 
diphtheria, and the ulceration which otherwise takes place in the inside, will 
appear on the outside while the inside becomes free. A remedy which was 
once successfully used in a severe case, was to burn in the room when 
tightly closed, a pan of half and half turpentine and tar. But as we have 
said before always call a physician as soon as possible, but work till he comes, 
and any of the above suggestions will do no harm and will certainly helo. 



1 1 04 MEDICAL. 

Fever and Ague. — This, the true intermittent fever, comes on with an 
ague-fit, which has three stages— the cold, the hot and the sweating. In 
the first stage, the patient yawns, stretches, feels weak, has no appetite, and 
does not wish to move. The face and extremities become pale, the skin 
shrinks, and is covered with goose-flesh ; the patient shakes, and his teeth 
chatter.' Then, after a time, these symptoms decline, and the patient's fever 
comes on very violently, and with various uncomfortable sensations. As the 
fever passes off, the sweating stage comes on, when the prespiration is gen- 
erally profuse ; the body returns to its natural temperature, the pains and 
aches vanish, and a feeling of health comes back, and generally a voratious 
appetite. TJiere is not much regularity in the time of coming on or going 
off of the ague-fits, though usually they are a little later each day in appear- 
ing. In tills disease the spleen is very much oppressed with blood driven in 
from the surface, and often becomes so much enlarged as to be plainly felt 
by the hand. This is a malarious disease. The bowels may be opened with 
a gentle physic, such as salts and soda. In the cold stage, give hot and 
stimulating drinks, use foot-baths, hot bottles, etc., and try every expedient 
to promote warmth. In the hot stage, give cooling drinks and administer 
quinine mixture, as the following ; quinine, one scruple ; alcohol, four ounces ; 
sulphuric acid, five drops. Mix. Give a teaspoonful every half hour dur- 
ing the fever, at the same time giving five-drop doses of veratrum veride 
every hour. When the sweating stage comes on, stop the veratrum, and rub 
the patient with dry towels. In the intermission give quinine. In mild 
cases, other tonics than quinine often effect a cure. The nursing of the pa- 
tient, and bathing, sweating and rubbing are the most important part of the 
treatment, in this, as in most other diseases. In ague districts, the hot sun 
and evening air are to be avoided. 

Or take two ounces of gum camphor and inclose it in a flannel bag about 
four or five inches square. Suspend the bag over the pit of the stomach by 
the means of a e*gfd around the neck, and a speedy cure will be effected. 
When the campl^r is dissolved the ague is gone. "German physicians, as 
appears from medical journals, have found a tincture of the leaves of the 
Eucalyjitus globulus, or Australian gum-tree, to be a remedy for intermittent 
fever.' Dr. Lorimer gave it to fifty-three patients, of whom forty-three were 
completely cured. The ordinary sunflower, if planted around a house, will 
free the atmosphere from animal and vegetable germs stipposed to contain 
the miasma productive of fever and ague. 

Bilious Remittent Fever. — This makes its attack in a sudden and marked 
manner. There are no premonitory symptoms except, perhaps, a little lan- 
guor and debility, slight headache, and bad taste in the mouth, sometimes 
some pain in the joints. Its commencement is with a chill, sometimes slight, 
sometimes severe and prolonged. The chill may begin in the feet, or shoul- 
ders, or back, running thence like streams of cold water. There is seldom 
more than this one chill, the fever coming on afterward without the cold 
stage. At certain periods of the day there is greater intensity of the symp- 
toms, and possibly the chill, though probably not. Between these periods of 
increased fever the disease seems to decrease, though there is still some fever. 
Unlike fever and ague, it does not go entirely oS". During the hot stage the 
pulse is up to 120, or still higher, and there are pains in the head, bacTc and 
limbs, of the most distressing kind. The tongue is covered with a yellowish 
fur, and in bad cases, is parched, brown or almost black in the center, and 
red at the edges. The appetite is gone, and there is a general nausea and 
vomiting, and pain of tenderness in the upper part of the bowels. At first 
there is costiveness, but afterward the bowels become loose, and the evacua- 
tions are dark and offensive. This disease is produced by malaria, and pre- 
vails in hot climates, and in our sunam^r and ftutumn. In the very beginning 



MEDICAL. 1165 



the disease may be arrested by an emetic of lobelia or ipecac, followed by a 
mild cathartic. But if the disease is fully developed, sponge the body all 
over several times a day with water, and give cooling drinks, such as cream 
tartar, two scruples, in a quart of water, lemonade, etc. To allay the fever, 
give tincture of veratrum viride in ten-drop doses. Cold water and ice may 
be given the patient, if desired. Cool the head, when it aches, with cold ap- 
plications, and put a mustard poultice on the stomach if tender. During the 
remissions between the fever, quinine and other tonics must be given, as iu 
fever and ague. 

Congestive Fever. — Another form of malarious fever is the congestive. 
It may be either remittent— that is, abating considerably ; or intermittent — 
that is, having intervals of entire freedom from fever. It may have intervals 
of twenty-four or forty-eight hours. The first attack does not differ from that 
of simple intermittent, and may excite but little attention ; but the second is 
always severe, producing great coldness, and a death-like hue to the face and 
extremities. The advancement of the disease brings dry, husky, parched, 
and pungently hot skin, followed after a time by a cold, clammy sensation. 
The eyes are dull, watery, and sometimes glassy; the countenance dull, 
sleepy, distressed ; the tongue, at first white, changes to brown or black, and 
is usually tremulous ; the breathing is hurried and difficult. Pressure over 
the liver, stomach or bowels, produces pain. The mind is often disturbed, 
and falls into lethargy and stupor, or is delirious. The treatment should be 
nearly the same as in bilious remittent. While convalescing, the diet must 
be light and nutritious at first, increasing in quantity as the strength returns. 
Use a mild tonic if the patient is weak. Exercise out of doors must not be 
neglected. 

Hay Fever (or Asthma). — This very peculiar disease appears generallv as 
a severe attack of catarrh, with asthmatic symptoms superadded. The lin- 
ing membrane of the eyes, nose, throat and lungs is all more or less affected. 
The patient suffers from headache, sometimes severe, sneezing, irritation of 
the nose and throat, with a dry, harrassing cough. The asthmatic attacks 
come on gently towards evening, and last from one to three hours, causing 
great distress. Hay fever is not a very common comjilaint, and only attacks 
those persons who, from some peculiarity of constitution, are susceptible to 
the causes producing it. It is supposed to be caused by the inhalation of the 
pungent aroma of spring grass and hay ; but the inhalation of the powder of 
ipecacuanha will also produce it in certain individuals. In the United States 
where the rose is largely cultivated, similar attacks sometimes occur; it is 
then called rose fever or rose catarrh. The best treatment is change of air — 
to the sea-side, if possible. During the attacks antispasmodics, such as sal 
volatile, ether, or an emetic if the patient is able to bear it, inhalations of hot 
steam medicated with creosote, carbolic acid, or turpentine, will be found 
useful. AVhen the attack passes off, the general health should be improved 
by tonics, diet, etc. 

Typhoid Fever. — Typhoid fever is generally preceded by several days of 
langour, low spirits, and indisposition to exertion. There is also usually, 
some pain in the back and heaci, loss of appetite, and drowsiness, though not 
rest. The disease shows itself by a chill. During the first week there is in- 
creased heat of the surface, frequent pulse, furred tongue, restlessness and 
sleeplessness, headache and pain in the back ; sometimes diarrhea and swell- 
ing of the belly, and sometimes nausea and vomiting. The second week is 
oftened distinguished by small, rose-colored spots on the belly, and a crop of 
little watery pimples on the neck and chest, having the appearance of mi- 
nute drops of sweat ; the tongue is dry and black, or red and sore ; the teeth 
are foul ; there may be delirium and dulness of hearing ; and the symptoms 



116G MEDICAL. 

every way are more serious than during the first week. Occasionally the 
bowels are at this period perforated or ate through by ulceration, and the 
patient suddenly sinks. If the disease proceeds unfavorably into the third 
week, there is low, muttering delirium, great exhaustion, sliding down of the 
patient toward the foot of the bed, twitching of the muscles, bleeding from 
the bowels, and red and purple spots upon the skin. If, on the other hand, 
tlie patient improves, the countenance brightens up, the pulse moderates, 
tlie tongue cleans, and the discharges look healthy. Give the patient good 
air, and frequent spongings with water, cold or tepid, as most agreeable. 
Keep the bowels in order, and be more afraid of diarrhea than costiveness. 
Liarrhea should be restrained by injections of cold water. For costiveness, 
g;ve mild injections, made slightly loosening by castor oil or c'ommon mo- 
Tasses. To keep down the fever and produce prespiration, give tincture of 
veratrum viride, ten drops every hour. If the bowels are swelled, relieve 
them by hot fomentation of hops and ^"inegar. If the pain in the head is 
very severe and constant, let the hair be cut short and the head bathed fre- 
quently with cold water. Give light nourishment, such as milk, etc. ; and if 
the debility is great, broth will be needed. Cleanse the mouth with very 
weak tea— old hyson. If the fever runs a low course, and the patient is very 
weak, quinine may be given from the beginning. Constant care and good 
nursing are very important. 

Typhus fever is distinguished from typhoid by there being no marked dis- 
ease of the bowels in typhus. The patient must be placed in a large, well- 
ventilated room, where drafts may be avoided; he should have his bed so 
situated that the light from a window will not fall upon his face, as this is 
annoying; all curtains, carpets and bed hangings should be at once re- 
moved : the bed should not be too soft, and a macintosh or india-rubbar 
sheet should be placed under the patient. He should not be allowed to ex- 
ert himself in any way, as it is absolutely necessary that he husband all his 
strength. The greatest cleanliness must be observed, and all excretia re- 
moved at once, and carbolic acid or chloride of lime should be mixed with 
them ;^;oiled linen should be put in a tub containing some carbolic acid. Bed- 
sores are very liable to form on the back, and so the nurse must always be on 
the lookout and try to prevent them by smoothing the sheets, drv'ing the pa- 
tient, and ruVjbing brandy and and balsam of Peru over the part ; better still 
to have a water cushion or water bed. The skin may be sponged down with 
tepid water, one part being sponged at a time, so as to prevent any undue 
chill of the surface from exposure ;this relieves the patient and partly counter- 
acts that disagreeble smell which the skin gives off in typhus cases. None 
but the nurse and doctor should see the patient ; all noises must be stopped, 
and perfect quiet ejijoined ; at night there should be a small light in the 
room, but so placed as not to disturVj the patient. Milk must be the chief 
article of diet, and is best given cold ; an egg or two may be beaten up in it. 
an<l tliree or four pints of milk may be given in the twenty-four hours ; this 
must be done at regular intervals of two hours, in equal quantities, special 
care being taken that it is given at night and in the early morning, when 
prostration is greatest. Beef-tea and broths, jellies, extract of beef, custards, 
etc,, may be given if the patient can take them and wants them For drinks 
in the early stage, lemonade, cold tea, soda-water may be given, but do not 
let them have too much effervescent drinks ; in bad cases the nurse will have 
enough to do to get the milk down. Stimulants are very useful, but the 
quantity must van,' with each case, and be left to the doctor's judgement. 
Brandy is the best stimulant, and may be given with iced milk; too much 
must liot be given at first, as it causes oppression and inability to take nu- 
trient food ; but afterwards, in the stage of great prostration, its proper and 
careful administration may save the patient's life. 



MEDICAL. 



1167 



Yellow Fever. — This disease is most prevalent in hot climates, and south- 
ern cities of our country. It comes in the latter part of summer, and lasts 
till frosty weather. The disease begins with a chill, generally not very se- 
vere. Following the chill, there is moderate fever, and some heat of the 
surface ; but rarely rises to any great height, and only continues to the 
second or third day, when, in fatal cases, it gives place to coldness of surface, 
etc. In many cases there is sweating. The pulse is regular and often over 
a hundred, but feeling like a bubble under the finger, which breaks and van- 
ishes before it can be fairly felt. The tongue is moist and white in the first 
and second days ; but red, smooth, shining and dry as the disease advances 
toward the close, having a dry, black streak in the middle. The most strik- 
ing svnii)toms are nausea and vomiting, which, in fatal cases, is .very pi'r- 
sistent ; and toward the last a yellowish or greenish matter is thrown up, 
followed by a discharge of thin black fluid, which is called the black vomit. 
The bowels are generally active, with tenderness in the ui)per bowels or 
stomach. There is generally severe headache and a peculiar expression of 
face, in which the lips smile, while the rest of the face is fixed and sad, 
sometimes wild. The patient continues wakeful night and day. There are 
discharges of blooil, often from the nose, the gums, the ears, the stomach, 
the bowels and the urinary passages. First move the bowels with some 
mild physic, such as sweet tincture of rhubarb, four ounces; bicarbonate of 
soda-, two drachms. Mix. Give a table-spoonful once in Uiree hours until it 
operates. During the chill, use all the usual means of warming the bod.v— by 
hot bottles, mustard foot-bath, warm drinks, draughts, etc. A warm poultice 
on the stomach is useful— some would advise cupping. During the second, 
or cahii stage, give gentle stimulants, warm drinks, and five-drop doses of 
veratrum veride, also quinine. In the third stage, brandy, quinine, and all 
stimulants freely. To quiet .the vomiting, give this prescription; creosote, 
twentv drops ; spirits of mindererus, six ounces ; and alcohol enough to dis- 
solve the ereosote. Dose — half an ounce, every two hours. 

Temperance, cleanliness, and all good habits, do much to prevent this 
disease. A French physician asserts that liability to yellow fever is preven- 
ted by drinking only boiled water. He believes that the fever is the exclu- 
sive result of using corrupted water, and that, if one is attacked by it, he may 
be cured in a few hours by drinking large quantities of boiled water. Many 
of our best authorities believe that infusoria is the cause of the disease. 

Headaches.— TLeiidaches are always symptoms of some derangement of 
the system in some of its parts, and should not be neglected. In children, 
they generally indicate the approach of some disease. In adults they are 
occasioned frequently by a bad circulation, impaired digestion, and by af- 
fections of the nerves. For the first, active exercise and a slight physic are 
only necessary ; for the second, light diet, with exercise and a dose of some 
bitter alkali after meals ; and for the third, the same treatment as for neural- 
gia, being careful about the diet. Sometimes a patient is subject to rheu- 
matic headache, which mav be treated with warm fomentations, stimulating 
liniment, and a gentle physic. The patient should dress warmly, and avoid 
exposure to cold and wet feet 

A doctor in Paris has published a new remedy for headaches. He uses 
a mixture of ice and salt, in proportion of one to one-half, as a cold mixture ,_ 
and this he applies by means of a little purse of silk gause, witli a rira of 
gutta percha, to limited spots on the head when rheumatic headaches are 
felt. It gives instantaneous relief. The skin is suljjected to the process frmu 
half a minute to one and a half minutes, and is rendered hard and white by 
the application. 2.— Put a handful of salt into a quart of water, add one 
ounce of spirits of hartsliorn and half an ounce of cainphorat("<l spirits of 
wine. Put them quickly into a bottle, and cork tightly to prevent the escape 



1168 MEDICAL, 

of the spirit. Soak a piece of rag with the mixture, and apply it to the head ; 
wet the rag afresh as soon as it is lieated. — 3. It is stated that two tea-spoons 
of tinely-powdered charcoal, drank in half a tumbler of water, will, in less 
than fifteen minutes, give relief to the sick headache when caused, as in most 
cases it is, by superabundance of acid on the stomach. This remedy has 
been tried time and again, and its eliicieucy in every instance has been sig- 
nally satisfactory. 

Palpitation of Heart. — Palpitation and irregular action of the heart are 
often experienced in persons between the ages of sixteen and twenty years ; 
they are, or have generally been, growing rapidly, are of delicate appearance, 
and frequently are addicted to some vicious habits. In such persons the 
blood is thin and poor, and the heart and nerves fail to perform their proper 
function for want of support. Derangement of the stomach often gives rise 
to these symptoms, aiad they may persist for a long period from this cause. 
A lady who for years suflt'ered from violent paroxysms of palpitation, which* 
many physicians attributed to organic disease of the heart, happened on one 
occasion to take some medicine which induced vomiting, and this act was 
followed by immediate recovery. Subsequently whenever she had the symp- 
toms of an approaching attack of palpitation, she resorted to an emetic, which 
not only gave relief to the paroxysms, but finally relieved her altogether. In 
another case, a patient entered a hospital, suffering severely from violent ac- 
tion of the heart; he was bled and blistered and purged, without benefit; 
having taken a lai'ge dose of medicine, vomiting ensued, with immediate and 
permanent relief. Tea, and especially green tea, is very liable to disturb the 
heart's action when used by susceptible persons. And there is no doubt 
that an immense number of persons in every community suffer from minor 
forms of heart derangement, due to the use of tea. Tobacco, either smoked 
or chewed, invariably effects the heart's action, and produces irregularity 
and palpitation. 

Jaundice. — A disease characterized by yellowness of the skin and eyes 
and urine, the discharge from the bowels being of a whitish or clay color. It 
is caused by the excretion of bile being prevented and retained in the blood, 
or reabsorbed and diffused through the system. It depends upon various and 
different internal causes. Pregnant women frequently suffer from it. Any 
kind of pressure upon the excretory ducts, such as by tumors, etc., or the 
ducts being filled up with mucus, inspissated bile, or biliary calculus will oc- 
casion it. It may also occur as a symptom of chronic or acute inflammation 
of the liver. Fits of anger, fear or alarm have sometimes been directly fol- 
lowed by an attack of jaundice. And, lastly, certain forms of it are })roduced 
occasionally by long continued hot weather. An attack of jaundice is usu- 
ally preceded by symptoms of a disordered state of the liver and digestive 
organs, loss of appetite, irregular or constipated bowels, colic, nausea, head- 
ache, langour, etc. Sooner or later the yellow color begins to appear, usually 
first in the eye, then in the face, then on the chest, and finally covering the 
whole body. Sometimes the yellowness is the first symytom ; and again, as 
soon as the yellow stage is reached many of the preliminary symptoms di- 
minish. The shades of yellowness are various — from a light yellow to a deep 
orange hue, and, in some cases, of a greenish or even a blackish color. In 
the latter cases it is known as ''black jaundice." The greenish or darkish 
varieties are considered most dangerous. 

Some kinds of jaundice are absolutely irremediable, while others will 
pass off without any treatment. If the patient be young, and the disease 
complicated with no other maladj', it is seldom dangerous ; but in old people, 
where it continues long, returns frequently, or is complicated with dropsy or 
other disease, the comiit'on upon which it depemls generally leads to a fatal 
result. In general the obvious treatment is to promote secretion of the bile 



MEDICAL. 



11(59 



and to favor its removal. In ordinary cases, a strong infusion of rliubarb 
root taken freely, so as to keep up a laxative action, without active pui'ging 
or vomiting; a cool, light, and laxative diet (such as ripe fruits, mild vege- 
tables, chicken and veal broth, new eggs, stewed prunes and buttermilk) ; 
free ventilation and hot fomentations twice a day, for half an hour, over 
the liver, incase of torpor and obstruction; or cold cloths, in case of exces- 
sive production of bile, will usually effect a cure. Some prescribe an infu- 
sion of thoroughwort, drank freely every day. Cold water should be the 
only drink ; no coffee, tea, etc. As much exercise should be taken as the 
patient can stand ; and if there be any spasmodic pain in the right side, the 
patient should sit frequently in a warm bath up to his shoulders. Any at- 
tack of jaundice may turn out seriously, and therefore as soon as the symp- 
toms develope themselves a physician should be sent for. Persons subject 
to jaundice ought to take as much active exercise as possible, and should 
avoid all exhausting food and stimulating drinks. 

Water Treatment at Home. — The following methods oi treatment witn 
water, etc., have been tested and we know whereof we speak when we say 
they work like a charm. A thermometer is needed to test the temperature, 
as the terms hot, cold, warm and tepid are so indefinite ; what is hot to one 
person is cold to another, in the morbid states thnjugh which sick people 
pass, and the sensation* of healthy peo])le ai'e so varialjle that thej' can not 
be relied upon to temper baths by the touch, for those with whom a slight 
change is of consequence. Generallj' 70° Farenheit would be considered a 
cold bath, 85° tepid, 95° warm, and 105° hot. The time of taking baths is 
from an hour to two hours after, and never within half an hour before, eat- 
ing; and those who are taking treatment for chronic ailments, or for cleanli- 
ness, should not bathe when tired ; but when one is suffering from acute 
disease, and becomes restless and nervous, a sponge-bath or, if able to bear 
it, a pack or a sitz or foot-ljath will greatly refresh and soothe. From ten to 
twelve in the morning generally finds the body at the highest point of vigor, 
and as treatments are most beneficial then, this proves the best time ; but if 
this can not be, take just before retiring. In all baths a cold wet cloth should 
be kept on head, and jug of hot water, with rul^ber cork, at feet (except in 
foot-baths), keeping head cool and feet warm. When baths are to be reduced, 
add cold water till right temperature is reached ; but after foot-baths the better 
way is to have a pail of cold water and take what is called a foot-jdunge, im- 
niersing the feet one at a time, for a moment in this pail ; or the cold water 
may be poxired right over the feet. The theory is this : whenever water is 
applied to any part or the whole of the body, at so high a temperature as to 
relax the coats of the capillaries and distend them with blood, it must be 
followed by an application at so low a temperature as to constringe the ves- 
sels and restore their tone. When bath is completed wrap at once in a dry 
sheet and rub vigorously with a crash towel, as the patient must not have anj' 
chilly sensations, and the skin should be left all aglow. A strong person 
may "now take any exercise wished, so as to establisii thorough and perma- 
nent reaction, but delicate persons had better rest for an hour or two. 

The Sitz-Bath. — This is a very pleasant remedy for a great many ills. To 
take, have a sitz-bath tub, which is either of tin or wood, something the shape 
of a chair, the seat being the tub, and the back is hollowed out to fit the back 
of person ; or one can be improvised by taking a large wash-tub and placing 
something under the back, so as to incline it. Patient undresses and sits in 
tub, with enough water to nearly fill it when he sits down, with a foot-tub 
of water for his feet ; place blankets around him from the front, so as to well 
cover him, and tuck in carefully at the back ; place a cold wet cloth on head. 
The general temperature for a sitz is 92°, for ten minutes ; 88°, five minutes ; 
»ud for foot water 100°. Now have a pail of cold water, and plunge feet one 



1170 MEDICAL. 



at a time in it. then throw a dry sheet around him, and rub dry quickly and 
vigorously with a crash towel. These sitz-baths are good for colds, diarrhea, 
piles, female weakness, urinary trouble, bilious colic, and, in fact, almost 
every ill that flesh is heir to. 

For colds — a sitz-bath as warm as can be borne (106° is good), adding hot 
water as it cools, so as to keep it at that temperature for fifteen minutes; 
with a foot-bath hot, hotter, hottest. Keep well wrapi^ed up, a co.d wet cloth 
on head, rub thoroughly dry, and go right to bed. Or some follow with a 
dripping sheet ; and others who are robust, and wish to break uj) a severe 
cold, take this hot sitz, then a pack at about 85°, then a dripping sheet, and 
diet carefully for two or three days, remaining in bed if possible. Where it 
is only a slight cold a hot foot-bath, as described elsewhere, sufhees ; and this 
is also better for children under six or seven years of age, as you can not 
t^asily give them a sitz. Affe)- all baths always wrap a dry aheet around the 
person, rubbing dry with it ; this prevents any chilliness. Some use a crash 
towel also, especially for the feet. 

The temperature of a sitz-bath, in different diseases, is about as follows : 
Colds — hot as can be borne. Diarrhea — cool, about 90° for ten minutes, and 
84°, five minutes. Piles — 96°, ten minutes ; 90°, five minutes. Female weak- 
ness — 94°, ten minutes; 88°, ten minutes. Profuse menstruation — 84, five 
minutes; 78°, five minutes, and 7l'°, five minutes* Urinary trotibles — 92°, 
ten minutes, and 88°, five minutes. F>ilious colic and for all acute pains — 
120°, rapidly raised to as hot as can l)e ])orne, but take out ])atient before 
perspiring. ' Chronic pains — 104°, three minutes ; 90°, five minutes, and 86°, 
five minutes. For malaria — 104° at first, adding hot water till the person per- 
spires. For retention of urine, with a desire to urinate — a sitz-bath at 100°, 
ten minutes, and 90°, five minutes, with foot-bath as hot as can be borne, 
with cold plunge and a vigorous rubbing with damp-salt, repeated for two or 
three days, will give perfect relief. 

The sitz-bath is of great importance in drawing the blood from the brain, 
and also relieves congestion of the abdominal structures. The usual length 
is fi-om fifteen to thirty minutes, according to strength of patient, if an in- 
valid, or as it feels comfortable. 

Tilt' Foot-Bath. — This good old remedy for colds, etc., as given was always 
attended with the risk of faking more cold. This is easily overcome by the 
verv s'mple adjunct of a pail of cold water in which to plunge the feet, and 
give bath in this way for a cold : At night have a foot-tub of hot water — 110°, 
(.r hotter if patient will bear it; and he can be dressed or undressed, but must, 
either case, be well wrapped with a blanket, a cold wet cloth on head, and 
as water cools add hot. In ten or fifteen minutes take out feet and plunge 
for .a moment in ])ail of cold water, then wipe dry and rub to a glow, retire 
at once, and in the morning all traces of the cold, such as head stopped up, 
sore tliroat, etc., will have disappeared. For a little child, where he can 
not take the plunge, wet a towel in cold water, and take his feet in your lap 
and rub with the wet towel and tlien wipe dry. The plunge or cooling of 
tlie water ought to follow all foot-baths, whether for colds, a tired feeling, 
headache, cleanliness, etc. Where one has had a hard day's work nothing 
is more restful than a foot-bath as hot as can be borne. The usual foot-bath 
is 104°. and hot water added to keep it at this point forten or fifteen minutes ; 
but where it is given with sitz, no more hot water is added. For chronic 
cold feet have water as hot as can be borne one minute, then plunge feet in 
cold, then in the hot a minute, and repeat this from six to a dozen times, 
ending with the cold plunge, and then rub vigorously. For a child, need not 
make so many changes. Take this three times a week. For a sprain, this 
treatment is one of the best ; or a spray of hot a minute, and then a cold 
hpray, then hot, and so on for half a dozen times 



MEDICAL. 1171 



What is called by soriae a deep-leg bath is only an "extension foot-bath," 
and is of prime importance in congestion of the brain, catarrh, and, in fact, 
any liead trouble, as it is purely a derivative bath. It is given best in a tub 
twenty-eight inches liigh, tup diameter twenty inches, and bottom seventeen 
inches. Have patient stand in this with water to his hips, of the tempera- 
ture of 108° or 110°, for ten minutes, cold wet cloth on his head, and a sheet 
wrapped around him: step out and spray the legs, or even the whole body, 
with water of the temperature of 85°, and gradually reduced to as cool as 
can be borne ; or a bucket of water 85° can be thrown over legs, and then 
one at 75°. Where there is severe congestion of the brain, have two pails of 
water, same temperature as tub, placed on each side, high enough to come 
up even with top of tub, and have patient immerse his arms in these. The 
deep leg-bath can not be taken till two hours after eating, but the ordinary 
foot-bath in an hour or an hour and a half. A foot-bath may be given in 
bed by placing a rubber cloth under the foot-tub, and it gives great relief 
ofttimes. 

Fomentations. — The method of giving this treatment is very simple, and 
yet very few give them correctly. First, have flannel cloths, made of four 
thicknesses white shaker-flannel (or pieces of a blanket), sewed across the 
center from corner to corner, and also all around the edges. Different sizes 
are needed: one, 10 by 13 inches, for across small of back; one, 12 by 17 
inches, for over chest, stomach and bowels; and one, 5 by 18 inches, for 
down the spine ; then one for the throat. And of course one can make any 
shapes wished ; and where there are children, many ditt'erent sizes must be 
in readiness in the bath-room cupboard. Fomentations are good for all 
pains, aches, inflammations, inactivity of stomach and liver, and are always 
a success, gi\^ing relief to pain at once. Where the case is acute, they should 
be given daily, and in severe cases oftener — if necessary, continuing for two 
hours at a time. (Have known them to be given for five consecutive hours.) 
The usual length of time is twenty or twenty-five minutes, giving four or five 
changes of five minutes each. For a child, if rather weak, give only two or 
three changes, and repeat oftener, if for pain, whenever it returns. The 
manner of treatment is this : Place on a bed or cot a comforter or blanket. 
Let patient undress entirely, as he does for a pack, and lie upon the blanket. 
With a jug of hot water at his feet; then wring the flannel out of boiling 
water — and there are different ways of doing this — as, to be efficacious, the 
cloth mu8t be verv hut — as hot as patient can bear, and he can bear it a great 
deal hotter than he thinks. Of course, for children, the one who gives treat- 
ment must be the judge. One rule is, what you can bear to your face ; or some 
put one thickness of dry flannel next skin, and then tlie hot fomentation ; or 
wring flannel with your hands, or have water at 150°. liut, for adults, the best 
way is to immerse flannel in boiling water and wring with a wringer — a smajl 
one, fastened to a wooden pail, being very convenient ; or, if one has a bath- 
room, have a sink in that, and fasten wringer to it ; or a small tub can be ar- 
ranged with feet, so it can be moved into any room necessary. The next best 
way is to place in a foot-tub a cloth of two thicknesses of heavy muslin (flour 
sack will do) , extending over the ends of tub ; place flannel folded in center of 
it, and have two square sticks (two feet long and inch and a half square) ready 
to place at each end, resting on top of flannel ; pour on the boiling water, put in 
sticks, and let one person take hold of each, turning sticks, bringing up the mus- 
lin around it, and then wring in opposite direction ; or, if only on j person pre- 
pares cloth, have another dry muslin cloth, and, after boiling water is poured 
on flannel, lift all into this dry cloth, and then wring. This is rather severe on 
the hands, but can be done. Now put flannels on part to be fomented, and 
bring up one side of blanket, then the other, and then comforter, placing a 
cold wet cloth on head. (If patient is sick in bed, a piece of dry flannel can be 



1172 MEDICAL. 



placed under him, if back is to be fomented or if the upper part of body, over 
the fomentation cloths, and then, in either case, tuck bedclothes well arond 
him.) Let flannels remain five minutes, wring again; or, if you have two 
cloths, have second one ready, and let it remain on five minutes, and so on 
for twenty or thirty minutes. In chronic diseases repeat this three or four 
times a week, and it will prove to be one of the best treatments to reduce 
chronic infiammation and conjestion of the stomach, liver, bowels, spleen, 
and kidneys. After the fomentations, sponge off part fomented with tepid 
water, rub dry with a towel, and oil with sweet or cocoanut oil; and if for 
pain or soreness, use sweet oil and ammonia, prepared by di'oppiiig ammonia 
into sweet oil till it becomes white (to a two-ounce bottle of oil, three or four 
drops.) This rubbing with oil prevents taking cold. In pneumonia nothing 
is better than hot fomentations given as describetl. In rheumatic fever, add 
cooking-soda to the w ater, in proportion of a table-spoon to a quart of water, 
and foment right over the heart. In rheumatism, neuralgia, bilious colic, 
etc., etc., fomentations avail much, giving instantaneous relief sometimes. 
Sickness at the stomach, a dizzy, heavy feeling, and severe pain in the head, 
will all be relieved at once by fomenting the stomach. For a babe who has 
severe colic, when fomentations are applied with two thicknesses of flannel 
next skin, and with care, they are just the thing. In any bronchial or lung 
trouble, these given over the lungs, chest and throat, extending half way 
around neck, have been known to in time effect a cure where the voice had 
been almost lost. The effect of fomentations is to bring the blood to the sur- 
face, and thus prevent inflammation and congestion. They can be taken any 
time, excci)t half an hour before or an hour and a half after eating. 

Female Weaknesses. — One of the best treatments for leucorrhea, ulcera- 
tion, and, In fact, any female weakness, is the hot vaginal enema. The best 
syringe to use is one that has only side openings in the metal tube, and this 
is an easy way to give it : Place a blanket in the long bath-tub, letting it 
reach down to the hips when j-ou lie down on your back. The temperature 
most often used is 110° for ten minutes, and 10u° for five minutes ; but it can 
be as hot as can be borne, as w'hat is unpleasant to the surface is hardly felt 
in the interior ; and by placing a folded blanket under the hips, so as to raise 
them quite high, and closing the opening around the tube of the syringe when 
inserted, a pint of water may be retained for several minutes, acting as a fo- 
mentation to the inner surface ; then eject this and insert more, and so 
continue for ten to twenty minutes. Repeat this three times a week, and 
wear all the time, day and night, a compress made of three thicknesses of 
linen, long enough to pass well around the abdomen, wet in tepid water, with 
a dry flannel (about two thicknesses) over it; re-wet the compress whenever 
it becomes dry. Then there are the fomentations and sitz-baths, described 
elsewhere, v.hich are invaluable. Another special treatment is the pelvic 
compress: Take two or three thicknesses of linen, a))(jut 10 by 12 inches, 
and have bed or cot arranged as for a pack ; have patient lie down upon the 
blanket, with jug of hot water at feet, and cool cloth on head ; then wet com- 
press in water at 80° and place over abdomen, extending well over the aff- 
ected parts ; bring up blanket and comforter, and in five minutes wet cloth in 
water at 7-1°, in three minutes 70°, in five minutes 64°, in three minutes 60°, 
in five minutes cold, and after five minutes take a towel and rub dry. This, 
repeated three times a week, is very strengthening. In pregnancy, tepid 
sitz-baths, the wearing of the compress around abdomen, and a diet of fruit, 
grains and vegetables, with oil-baths occasionally, if one is not fleshy, keep 
the system in a healthy state. 

Compresses. — The use of compresses is good for so many ailments that on© 
should know how to apply them. Compress cloths are made of two or three 
thicknesBes of old linen (crash towlinj; is good), and can be of whatever 



MEDICAL. 1173 



shapes wished. The different'e between compresses and fomentations are 
the first is wet, and wrung so it wiil not drip, in tepid or cold water, — hence 
linen is best; while the latter is wet in hot water. A dry flannel of two 
thicknesses, a little wider and longer, is put on over the linen compress, 
which IS re-wet three times a day in chronic cases, or when it feels un- 
comfortable. The throat compress, for chronic trouble, is wet m tepid water, 
and is worn day-time in summer and at night in winter; and when t^ken 
olf. the throat is bathed in cold water and rubbed till red with a crash towel. 
The chest compress, in acute case.s — such as pneumonia — should be re-wet 
every three hours in water at 90° ; for chronic lung trouble, re-wet whenever 
it feels unpleasant. The abdominal compress is one of great value in fevers, 
kidney trouble, indigestion, weak back (for this use salt in water), female 
weakness, and is always a relief when one is tired and restless. For acute 
or chronic cases, wear till the disease is conquered. The spinal compress is 
used where there is pain in the spine, with sense of heat, and is given like a 
fomentation, only with the linen compress ; 70*^ for five minutes ; 64°, five min- 
utes, 6U°, five minutes ; 54°, five minutes ; 50'', five minutes ; and sometimes 
the last changes are ice-cold. For weak back caused by a sore place, use a 
hot flannel compress five minutes across the small of back, then a cold linen 
one, then hot, and so on for half an hour, with cold last, rubbing dry with 
crash towel. Another remedy for simply a weak back, is to first sponge with 
hot water one minute, then cold one minute, for two or three times, rubbing 
dry, and then use oil and ammonia. Compresses are very much used after 
giving fomentations, and, in that case, no sponging off in cool water or oiling 
is necessary, but immediately put on the wet girdle and cover with dry 
flannel. 

Packs. — First, it is much more convenient if you can have what is called 
a "packing cot" made. A good proportion for the frame-work is thirty 
inches wide, twenty-five inches high, with the slats placed on a slight ele- 
vation, about three and a half inches, at liead. Then a mattress made to fit 
(it can be straw or whatever you wish); on that place an oil-cloth, then 
a comforter, then a blanket, stripes at side, and a jug of hot water, with 
a rubber cork, at foot. Now have the patient undress. Take a sheet, and 
with one hand pleat up the side of it, and with the other double it at mid- 
dle seam and dip it in a pail of water of the temperatune of 90° or 100° (you 
must allow five or six degrees for cooling off in wringing out sheet), wring 
and spread over the blanket. Have patient lie on his back in center, with 
hands over head ; bring one side of sheet over the body, tucking it under the 
near shoulder and up close to the neck, and then between the legs ; put arms 
down at side of body, and bring other side of sheet over the patient and tuck 
in closely under the side of the body down to the feet, then one side of blanket, 
then the other, then comforter in same wav. In folding the blanket and com- 
forter around neck bring it with one hand, in shape of a V, over the breast, 
and then fold corner up to the shoulder and tuck in. This saves so much bulk 
cTose up to the neck. _ Now fold a dry sheet across the middle and put over 
the patient, tucking it in well around the neck, so that no air can get in. The 
reason of using this extra sheet is, it is so much easier tucked closely around 
the neck and less bungling than the comforter. It is of great importance that 
all air be excluded and the work done quickly. Place a cloth wet in cold water 
on the head, extending over the eyes. If the patient does not warm up 
quickly, put an extra comforter or blanket over him, and, if necessary, jugs 
of hot water at the side ; for unless he becomes warm soon, the pack will do 
no good, and he should be taken out. The usual length of a pack is from 
forty minutes to an hour, for an adult; for a child, from ten minutes to 
half an hour — according to age and strength. There must be perfect quiet 
in the room, for much better results are obtained if the patient will sleep. 



1174 MEDICAL. 

he certainly must not talk, In taking him out unloose comforters and 
blankets, and pull the wet sheet out quickly and thiow over the dry sheet 
or, in winter, bring up the blanket. There are several different treatments 
that follow a pack. If convenient to a bath-room, one can slip in and take 
a wash-ofF, or a spray, or Pail-ponr. Tlie latter is given by having four 
pails (jl water — two of one temperature, 90°, poured over feet and then two 
of 80° : then wrap around him a dj-y sheet and take a crash towel and wipe 
dry, taking, in roiation, arms, breast, back, and legs. Or a dripping sheet 
can be given right in the room by putting an oil-cloth on the carpet; on 
that put a foot-tub of water at 104° ; the patient stands in this, and a sheet 
is dipped in a pail half full of water at 90°, or less, taken up by two corners, 
squeezed slightly, and put around him from the front, lapping behind and 
then rub him (over the sheet) vigorously for a minute; re-dip the sheet 
(water may be cooler or some cold may be added to make it about 6° or 8° 
less than at first), and put it around from behind, and rub again; then re- 
move .and cover with a dry sheet and rub vigorously. This bath is a good 
treatment taken alone as well as after a pack. It acts as a tonic, and a well 
person can take it himself. Or, if an oil-bath, sponge or dry rub is given, 
let him remain on the cot, and, for an oil-bath, rub an arm drj' with a crash 
towel, then rub with oil, and so on; for a sponge-bath, take a sponge (or a 
towel) and tepid water, and sponge off, rubbing dry with a crash towel; for 
a dry rub, simply rub dry with a crash towel, rubbing hard to create good 
circulation. The temperature of the room should be about 75°; and when 
the patient is taken out of the pack, let no cold air come to him. The tem- 
perature of the water in which sheet is dipped, for adults general!}^ is not 
so imi)ortant, as within two or three minutes it becomes of the same tem- 
perature as tlie body ; from 90° to 100° is a good range, but for children and 
delicate persons it should be from 100° to 110°, so as not to shock them. 
Packs are of great value in reducing fever, in breaking vip a cold, in malarial 
diseases, such as fever and ague, etc. ; and also in poor circulation and where 
the sj^stem is weakened and run down it acts as a tonic. In the spring when 
the system needs building un, just try a few packs instead of the sulphur 
and molases of old times. 

OiJ-rubs. — This treatment is one that gives perfect satisfaction to all who 
try it ; indeed, too much praise can l)ut be given to it. To see the effects of 
oil-rubs, one would say as did the Queen of Sheba, "The half has not been 
told." To give it, have the patient undress, with a sheet or blanket around 
him, sitting up or lying dow^n ; take either cocoanut, pure olive or sweet 
oil, whichever can be obtained the purest; pour some in palm of hand, rub 
hands together, then take an arm and rub in the oil thoroughly, rubbing up 
and down, using more oil if necessary (as much as skin will absorb) ; cover 
this arm ; take more oil and rub the other arm, then breast, back and legs ; 
cover each part when finished. Repeat from three to six times a week, as 
the case may demand. One who is greatly reduced can take with benefit* 
six a week. Once a week take a wash-off, or an acid sponge, by putting 
a scant tea-cup vinegar in a gallon of warm water, and iising a sponge or 
towel, then rubbing dry. This is especially good for consumptives, dyspep- 
tics, and persons who, from any cause, have been reduced in flesh and 
strength. It acts as a tonic, — thus it is of twofold value where one is re- 
covering from sickness, as it is also nutritive to them, and to those who 
are cold-blooded it warms up the system. So for children it is especially 
good in winter, as an oil-rub at night will assist in keeping them warm ; 
so, in the day-time, if going on a long drive, or to be exposed to the cold 
for awhile, it is a good "'send-off." For colds it works to a charm, for 
young or old, acting as a preventive, as it builds up the system, and renders 
it less liable to disease. Or when a cold is taken, it is easily broken up 



MEDICAL. 1175 



by a pack, followed immediately by an oil-rub, and the next two nights 
simplv oil-rubs, a hot foot-bath, 108° then cooled down, and followed by 
a complete oil-rub. Where adults or children are delicate, the oil-rub gives 
good, healthy flesh ; and where it is given as described, the result is perfect. 
For constipation it is invaluable, working a perfect cure after a month or two. 
It can be given at any time, without reference to eating, as it is a nutritive 
bath. The following: description — given by Dr. James H. Jackson of "Our 
Homeonthe Hillside," at Dansville, N. Y., where these rubs have been used 
many years — tells in forcible language their use and value : "Oil-baths are 
given by rubbing the body all over with some kind of oil. It is not necessary 
to use more than two or three table-spoonfuls at one bath, but it should be 
rubbed in thoroughly, especially over the abdomen, inside the arms and 
thiglis, where it can be absorbed to the best advantage. They may be taken 
at any time during the day. It is as well, perhaps, to take them before going 
to bed as at any other time. They may be given to meet any one of three 
conditions : 

"1st. To supply waste of tissue and to introduce a very inportant ele- 
ment of nutrition into the body. Many persons will absorb oil to advantage 
nutritively, who can neither take it nor fats by the stomach without great 
distress or disturbance . 

"2d. To ira])rove the functions of the skin, which may become dry and 
bard, and lacks proper circulation in its cajjillaries. 

"3d. To allay nervous irritation and reduce fever. Persons in parox- 
ysms of fever, in typhoid, measles and scarlatina especially, may be freely 
anointed M'ith oil to great advantage. In my practice I have often seen the 
temperature of the body, when in a febrile state, reduced from one to three 
degrees by an administration of an oil-bath. I like the cocoanut oil better 
than the olive, it is more likely to be genuine; it penetrates better, it does 
not turn rancid on the body, and I think it furnishes more nutriment to the 
body. Olive oils, as a general thing, are impure." From the above /ou can 
see it is "multum in parvo," as it can really be depended upon for use in 
almost every thing the flesh is heir to ; and the great beauty of it is, any one 
can give it without feeling fear as to the results. It can do no harm unless 
the patient is very fleshy ; then it is not needed. It is so easily given that a 
child can i2;ive it to younger children. Its use in reducing fever is of untold 
vahie. A lady, who had had extended experience in using it, says . "I have 
known an oil-bath given a patient, in scarlet fever, with fever raging, and 
in a little while the temperature was reduced, and lie was quietly sleeping." 

For little babies it is really a blessing, as it nourishes and strengthens 
them ; and given every other day, with a sponge-off' in warm water the inter- 
vening day, an infant will do much better than when bathed daily. 

It is also a great help in supplying nourishment wliere the mother has 
not sufficient nurse, and aids, too, in preventing the little colds, snuffles, 
colic, etc., that hover around the little one the first two or three months, 
needing our most watchful care to ward them off. Then, where there is any 
constipation, it is a perfect panacea — so much better than physic or enemas 
It acts as a preventive to croup ; and when a child is weakened liy that dread 
disease, cholera infantum, nothing so helps to give tone to the system as 
the oil-rub. It certainly is the best of baby medicines, a baby can "grow up" 
without any other remedy. 

Diphtheria. — This dreaded disease needs all the knowledge one can pos- 
sibly obtain, so we give below the hygienic treatment as prescribed by Dr. 
J. H. Jackson, of "Our Home," Dansville, N. Y. First, he says, to tell a 
genuine case, make a swab and apply to patches on the throat; common 
ulcers will rub off, but diphtheritic patches will not. A good gargle is to 
make a solution, as strong as will dissolve, of chlorate of potassa, and bottle 



1176 MEDICAL. 



for use. "When needed, take in proportion to one-half solution and one-half 
soft water, and one-half grain permanganate of potash to ounce of mix- 
ture. For a stronger gargle, take two-thirds solution to one-third water, and 
one-half grain permanganate of potash to ounce of mixture. In case of diph- 
theria, keep the room at .'-•0'^', and have boiler of water on stove, or hang wet 
slieets in room, in order to keep the room saturated with warm vapor, and 
also have fresh air in the room. His treatment is as follows : 

''When the person is attacked, in cases where the epidemic is present in 
the vicinity, with a S(jre throat, pain in the heal, in limbs, in Vjack — in 
other words, the symptoms being ^-ery nuu'h like those of a hard cold — I be- 
gin by putting the person at once into a hot baih, covernig him up and giving 
him warm water to drink, so as to produce a thorough sweating, the object 
being to fight feVjrile conditions and estab ish and aid processes for throwing 
otf the disease by means of the skin, bowels, etc. This sweating is all the 
more necessary, in most cases, bectause of the inattention which is usually 
given to keep the pores of the skin open, and it will relieve the fever, if not 
at once, as a secondary result. After the j)erson has ]»een in a state of pers- 
piration for some time, I take him immediately fr(nn the hot bath and give 
him a thorough washing with a sheet wet in water at 80 degrees, in a warm 
room, and after wiping see that he is sent to bed with a cool cloth upon the 
head, and in many cases an al)dominal couipress wit in cool water, which 
shall cover entirely the abdomen, with a dry flannel cloth over it. In all feb- 
rile conditions of the boily tiiis application of the cool abdominal compress 
is of great value, because it is in the abdomen that the vital processes are 
carried on to large extent, the amount of blood existing there being much 
larger in proportion to the surface of the l>ody than in any other portion of 
*he frame except the brain. In order to keep the temperature of the body 
down below fever heat, that the fermentative process may not go on, or be 
held in check as far as possible, it is necessary to use with caution all the 
best means for the pnrjjose, and among them I certainly esteem the abdom- 
inal compress as of great use. After this, and in addition to it, the febrile 
conditions may be met by means of wet sheet packing or sponging frequently 
as may be necessary to keep the temperature to its normal standard. Of 
course, if the fever is not high, it will not be necessary to make strenuous 
efforts in this respect; but if it is, it should be fought sharply. The great 
need is to make the applications early and vigorously in tlie outset of the 
disease, because the etlects to be produced are needed then more than at 
any other time, and because in the later days or stages of the disease at- 
tention mus be directed to measures which support the strength of the body 
rather than those which, while reducing fever, tax its vitality to some degree. 
At any rate watch the temperature carefully, and keep it down. Great at- 
tention should be paid to nourishing the patient, and the best ai-tic4e for 
this purpose, both for adults and children, is milk, taken cool or warm, as 
the patient may fancy, and at as frequent times and in as large quantities 
as can be borne. To this may be added, later in the disease, nutritious 
soups or the juice of meats ; but under no circumstances, except toward the 
very last stages and in the septic f(.)rm, are alcoholic stimulants admissible, 
iu my judgement. The bowels should be kept open and the kidneys active, 
and for this purpose enemas should be given to effect the former if sluggish, 
and sitz-baths occasionaly — perhaps one each day — for fifteen minutes, at a 
temperature of 85 or 90 degrees, to stimulate the latter. The feet must al- 
ways be kept warm aiid the head cool, and in case there is any tendency to 
collapse or lowering of temperature below the normal standard, heat must be 
applied to the body by means of warm blankets and hot water bags and jugs. 

"In addition to this general treatment, treat the throat direct with moist 
heat, as that is the great prompter of suppuration. Hence, as soon as the 
m»mbraiies are formed, or as soon as it is known that the disease is diph- 



MEDICAL. 117T 



theria, the patient should be put upon the inhalation of steam as hot as can 
be borne, and as often as may be wise, considering the strength of the pa- 
tient and the severity of the disease. The inhalations ordinarily should be 
pursued for the first twenty-four or forty-eight hours, as often as once in each 
half hour, and continued for fifteen minutes, and the patient should be al- 
lowed only three or four hours of sleep each day during this period, because 
the constant presence of the vapor is necessary to hurry up the suppurative 
process, and the earlier this can be produced the sooner the case will recover. 
The inhalations may be made by means of the common steam atomizer, now 
sold by all dealers in surgical and medical instruments, and which may be 
used without filling the medicine cup ordinarily, the steam being taken di- 
rect from the boiler through the mouth piece. If this is not convenient, a 
tea- kettle with a long conducting spout, which shall carry the steam to the 
patient, or any a{)paratus which will answer this same purpose, can be used. 
The air of tlie room may be saturated with warm vapor by dropping hot 
stones in a pail of water or of lime water. Care must be taken in any event 
to see that the steam is not too hot, and at the same time that the heat is as 
great as can be well borne. This process may be aided by application of 
warm poultices to the neck. A long, narrow bag may be filled with hot mush 
or any substance which will retain moisture and heat well, and neck enveloped 
in it, a dry flannel being put over, and changed as often as is necessary in 
order to maintain the warmth. Thus moist heat on the inside and moist 
heat on the outside aids to establish the necessary process of suppuration. 
This constant inhalation should be kept up until tl;e membranes cease to 
spread, and those which are formed become well marked in outline, and 
grow yellowish or a dirty gray in color, and seem to be shriveled or wrinkled, 
after which, generally about the third day, the inhalations ma}^ be decreased 
in fretjuency, but still should be kept up as often as every hour in the day- 
time, the patient being allowed six or eight hours' sleep at night, until the 
membranes are thrown off and the secretion of pus upon the mucous mem- 
brane of the mouth entirely stopped. The constant inhalation of steam 
through the atomizer, which generates it with some force, furnishes a means 
of washing the parts pretty thoroughly." 

The- Vapor- Bath is one of the most efficacious remedies if taken when a 
cold is first realized. It can always be very readily and successfully admin- 
istered with such conveniences as every family possesses. Place the patient 
in a cane-seat chair, having first taken the precaution to spread over the seat 
a dry towel. Surround the patient and the chair first with a woolen blanket, 
and then with two or three conifortal)les. drawing the blanket close around 
his neck, and allowing them to trail upon the fioor so as to exclude the air as 
perfectly as possible. Now place under the chair a large pan or pail contain- 
ing two or three quarts of boiling water. Let the blankets fall quickly, so as 
to retain the rising vapor. After a minute or two, raise the blankets a little 
at one side, and carefully place in the vessel a very hot brick or stone, drop- 
ping the blankets again as soon as possible, to avoid the admission of cold 
air. Before the first brick or stone has cooled, add another, and so continue 
until the patient perspires freely. The amount of perspiration must be judged 
by the face and forehead, as much of the moisture on the skin beneath the 
blankets is condensed steam. 

Should the bath at any time become too hot, a little air maybe admitted 
by raising the bottom of the blankets a little, being careful to avoid chilling 
the patient in so doing. Tiie bath should seldom be continued more than 
half an hour, and fifteen to twenty minutes will usually accomplish all that 
is desired by the bath. If too long continued, it induces faintness. A too 
high temperature will be indicated by a strongly accelerated pulse, throbbing 
of the temples, flushed face, and headache. The head should be kept cool 



1178 MEDICAL. 

by a compress wet in cool water and often changed. The temperature of the 
bath should be from 100^ to 115^. Unpleasant effects are sometimes produced 
at 120^". After this bath, app]}' a tepid spray, rubbing, a wet-sheet, pail 
douche, or tull bath No time should be allowed to elapse after the blankets 
are removed l>etore the corcluding bath is applied or the patient will chill. 
He shou.d not be allowed to bei^ome chilly by exposure to cool air before the 
apolication of the spray, douche, or bath, wluch should be followed by vig- 
orous ruobins. For "breaking up a cold," "breaking chills," relieving 
rheumatism, soreness of the muscles from over-exertion and relaxin"; stiff- 
ened joints, this IS a valuable agent. It may also be used to advantage in 
chronic diseases in which there is inactivity ot the skin, liver, or kidneys, 
being a powerfu. diaphoretic ; but great care must be exercised to avoid ex- 
cessive use. as too frequent repetitions of the bath produce debility. In in- 
stitutions where the bath is in daily requisition., a permanent arrangement 
forgiving the bath is usually employed. It generally consists of a box in 
which the patient sits upon a stoo', his head being alowed to remain outside 
by a suitable opening. A wet towel is placed around the neck to prevent the 
steam from rising about the head. St&am may be generated by bnilinjz water 
in the box with a large spirit-lamp or a gas-burner, or it may be conducted 
into the box by a rubber tube connected with u ti^ht boiler. 



ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 1179 



ACCIDEISTTS AND ^TJDDElSr SICKHSTESS. 



It is no longer considered a mark of the highest type of the feminine mind 
to faint away at the smallest fright, and to sink into helplessness at the first 
appearance of danger. Indeed, self-possession in emergencies is evidence 
of a clear brain, which, at the critical moment, asserts its supremacy over 
phvsical weakness, and takes command ot the demoralized forces ; besides 
fright and confusion are a , confession of ignorance as well as want of self- 
control. Those who know exactly w hat to do in emergencies rarely become 
panic-stricken. And it is particularly important for w^oinen, who are, doubt- 
less, constitutionally more timid than men, to fortify themselves against 
danger, by learning what to do in such accidents and emergencies as are 
likely to occur in the life of every one. It would prove a rare case, indeed, 
if such knowledge did not, at least once in a life-time, enable the possessor 
of it to save a valuable life, perhaps one infinitely dearer to her than her 
own. Of course, within the limits of such an article as is permissible here, 
only a few hints can be given, rather to suggest further investigation than to 
be a complete guide. 



A Life-Preserver.—A felt or silk hat, held so has to keep the crown full or 
air, will sustain a person above water for a great length of time. 

Panics.— U in a pul)lic hall in a panic, keep vour seat; even in case of 
fire the chances of life is greater if free from the crowd. 

Stings of Insects — Are relieved by the application of ammonia or com- 
mon salt, well rubbed in, or a slice of an onion, to the part. 

Runaways.— In all runaways it is safer to remain in the vehicle, and to 
stop with it, than to jump while the horse is running. The vehicle helps to 
break the shock of the final stop. 

Poisonous Wounds — Wounds by which poison has been carried into the 
system, require instant treatment. The wound must be burned out by a 
stick of lunar caustic, or by inserting a large, red-Jiot irpn. 



1180 ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 

Burns by Alkalies, such as lime, caustic potash, soda, ammonia, etc., are 
stopped in their progress by applying vinegar, lemon-juice, or other dilute 
acid ; they must then be treated like other burns. 

Brirns froryi Acids, such as oil of vitroil and aqua fortis, may be checked 
by the free application of water or handfuls oi moist earth. The tlrst dilutes 
the acid, and the second contains alkali enough to neutralize the acid. 

Choking. — A piece of f-fod lodged in the throat may sometimes be pushed 
down with the finger, or removed with a hair-pin quickly straightened and 
hooked at the end, or by two or three vigorous blows on the back between 
the shoulders. 

Fracture. — Send at once for a Physician, and simply make the patient as 
comfortable as possible. If he is to be conveyed to some distance, the frac- 
tured part should be supported in its natural position by handkerchiefs 
loosely tied. Allow no more handling than is absolutely necessary. 

Chilblains. — Are the result of a chilling of the part. To cure, keep away 
from the fire, and at night, before going to bed, wash in cold water, or rub in 
snow, and apply the compound resin ointment, made by all druggists, with 
a little oil of turpentine added to it. 

Swallowing Pieces of Broken Glass, Pins, etc. — By no means take a pur- 
gative. Rather partake freely of suet pudding, or any solid farinaceous food, 
and it is possible that both may pass away together without injury being 
done. 

Bites of Serpents. — When bitten by a rattlesnake or other poisonous ser- 
pent, pinch the skin, and, if the wound can be reached, suck out all the blood 
possible ; if the skin of the lips and mouth is sound, no harm will be done. 
vVhisk?y or brandy sliould, however, be administered freely, to intoxication. 

Fainting. — Debility of the nervous system favors fainting. The head 
should be kept low ; and if the patient faints in a chair, the simplest treat- 
ment is to grasp the back of it and depress it until the floor is reached, while 
another holds the knees so as to prevent slipping oft' the side. The patient 
will usually recover by the time the head has reached the floor. 

Shock from Cold Water. — Prostration from drinking or bathing in cold 
water while exhausted by heat or exercise should be treated as described for 
shock from other causes. Cold water sliould be taken in small quantities 
when the body is heated and exhausted, and a cold bath is often fatal under 
such circumstances. 

Epileptic Fits — In these there is nothing which a by-stander or friend 
can do, except to keep out of reach such articles as may injure the patient 
during the cont-ulsive movements ; to loosen the clothing about the neck and 
throat, and to assist to some place of safety when the semi-consious state re- 
turns. Other convulsions are treated in the same manner. 

Lightning. — If the person shows no signs of life, strip and dasli the body 
with cold water, dry and place in bed with bottles of hot water at the pit of 
the stomach and extremities, keeping up artificial respiration until the nat- 
ural breathing is restored ; a tea-spoon of brandy in a table-spoon of water- 
may be given every few minutes. Burns from liglitning should be treated 
like burns from any other cause. 

Breaking Through Ice. — In assisting persons who have oroken through 
ice, get a long pole, or stick, or board, to distribute the weight over a greater 
surface of ice. In attempting to get out of water upon the ice, after having 
fallen in, the best way is to approach it sidewise, and roll out rather than 
to attempt to raise the body up by the arms alone, as the weight is more 
widely distributed. 



ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 1181 

Hanging. — Death is from the same cause as in drowning. Cut down the 
body without allowing it to fall, place on face, press back tongue with finger 
to allow any accumulation to escape from the mouth, place on the back, and 
treat as directed for the drowned. If body is still warm after the removal 
of clothing, stand off six feet and dash several times with a bowl of cold 
water, the face, neck and chest. 

Foreign Body in Nostril. — Children often push foreign bodies up the nos- 
tril. To remove it, make the child draw a long breath, and then, closing the 
other nostril with the finger, and the mouth with the hand, expel the air from 
lungs by a sharp blow on the back. If it can not be removed in this way, 
compress the nostril above it to prevent its going back any further, and hook 
it out with the bent end of a wire or bodkin. If this fails, call a surgeon. 

Burning-Houses . — When a house is on fire, close all the doors and pre- 
vent currents of air. If the fire could be entirely shut in. it would smother 
and die out. The check will give time to get help, or, at least, to remove 
furniture and make all lives secure. If up-stairs when the stairway below is 
on fire, tear clothing to make cord to let yourself down by. If a room is full 
of smoke and flame, crawl on the floor, as the lower air is the cooler and more 
free from smoke. 

Freezing. — Keep the frozen person or part away from the heat. If the 
person is insensil>le, take him to cool room, remove clothing, rub with snow 
or cloths wrung out of ice-water. The cold friction should be kept up for 
some time ; and when the frozen parts show signs of life, the i)atient should 
be carefully dried and put into a cold bed in a cold room, and artificial res- 
piration used until the natural is restored ; and then brandy, beef-tea, and 
ginger-tea administered. The patient must be brought by degrees into the 
warmer air. Parts frozen should be treated by the same rule. 

Bites of Dogs — The only safe remedy in case of a bite from a dog sus- 
pected of madness, is to burn out the wound thoroughly with ared-hot iron, 
or with lunar caustic, for fully eight seconds, so as to destroy the entire sur- 
face of the wound. Do this as soon as possible, for no time is to be lost. Of 
course it wil be expected that the parts touched with the caustic will turn 
black. If, unfortunately, it should chance that any one is bitten by a dog 
that is said to be mad, it is worth while to chain the animal up, instead of 
shooting it instantly, for if it should turn out that it is not mad — and a false 
alarm is frequently raised — the relief to the minds of all concerned is indes- 
cribable. 

Foreign Bodies in the Ear. — Take the head of the child between the knees, 
face downward, and insert a stream of warm water into the ear, holding the 
nozzle of the syringe outside, so as to allow the foreign body to come out with 
the water. Probing with any substance whatever is very dangerous, and 
may inflict permanent injury. "When the above plan does not succeed, call 
a surgeon. Kill insects that get into the ear by pouring in sweet-oil or gly- 
cerine, which drowns and brings them to the surface. In the Eye the particle 
almost invariably lodges under the upper lid, adhering to it. If that lid is 
grasped by the thumb and finger, drawn outward and then downward, and 
then released, the lashes of the lower lid act as brush, and sweep off the 
intruder. If, however, it adheres to the eye-ball, it may be removed 
by rolling the upper lid over a knitting needle, and holding it there 
in such a position as to expose the surface, when the particle can be 
removed bv the corner of a handkerchief. Sometimes it may become 
imbedded in the membrane which covers the eye-ball, or eye-lid, and 
require the aid of a surgeon. Never use any of the eye- waters, lotions 



1182 ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 

or salves advertised as popular. A particle of lime in the eye is very 
dangerous, and vinegar diluted with water should be applied at once ; even 
when done imniediately the eye will be seriously inflamed. 

Sliock or Collapse from lightning, sudden and severe injuries, burns ex- 
tending over a large extent of surface, or powerful emotions, produces some- 
thing analogous to fainting. Place the patient flat on the back, with the 
head raised not more than an inch, and give a teas])oon of brandy in a table- 
spoon of water, every minute for six or eight minutes. If the temperature 
of the body has been raised, and the action of the heart is restored, enough 
has been given. Application of heat to the stomach and extremities is use- 
ful. The nausea and vomiting that sometimes accompany it may be allayed 
by swallowing whole small chi})s of ice, split oft' by standing a piece with 
grain upright and splitting otf a tiiin edge with the point of a pin. Ammonia 
applied to .the nostrils is often useful, and cologne on a handkerchief is 
sometimes of service. 

Punctured Wounds need a pad at the surface to cause clotting of the 
blood in the wound, but are otherwise treated like cuts, If pain follows and 
inflannnation ensues, the pad must be removed to permit the results of tlie 
inflamation to escape. Thorns and splinters, when run into the flesh, should 
be removed by cutting in far enough to get hold of and draw them out. 
Slivers under the nail, when not readied from the end, should be removed by 
scraping the nail thin, and cutting through it to the foreign body, and so 
withdrawing it; the part should then be tied with a cloth wet with water, in 
which a few drops of laudanum have been mixed. A puncture, by a rusty 
nail or some such substance, of the finger, toe, hand, or foot, frequently 
causes inflammation, and yet there is no room for the foreign matter left in 
the wound to escape through the tough skin, and lock-jaw results; in all 
such cases the wound should be cut open to provide a way of escape for the 
blood, etc., and a piece fo linen wet with laudanum inserted. Wounds from 
bruises and lacerations especially demand careful treatment, on the same 
general principles given above. 

Suffocatiou. — This often occurs from carbonic acid gas, or " choke-damp," 
on entering wells or old cellars ; this gas being heavier than air, falls and rests 
at the bottom. Before entering such places, test by lowering a lighted 
candle ; if the flame is extinguished it is unsafe to enter until the gas has 
beenremoved, by throwing down a bundle of lighted shavings or blazing paper 
sufficient to cause a strong upward current When a person is overcome by 
this gas, he must be immediately rescued by another, who must be rapidly 
lowered and drawn out, as he must do all while holding his breath ; a large 
sack is sometimes thrown over person who goes to the rescue. As soon as 
brought ont, place the person on his back, bare the neck and throat, loosen 
clothing and strip as quickly as possible ; if he has not fallen in the water, 
dash cold water freely over head, neck, and shoulders, standing off" several 
feet and throwing it with force ; nrtificial respiration should be used mean- 
time, as in case of drowning, with as little cessation as possible. If the 
person has fallen in the water when overcome by the gas, place in a warm 
bed, and use the means of artificial respiration. 

Suffocation from burning charcoal, from anthracite or bituminous coal, 
or from common burning gas, or the foul gases from drains and cess-pools, 
is treated as if from carbonic acid. 

Accidents in General. — The first and most important thing after sending 
for a surgeon, when an accident has occurred, is to keep oft' the crowd. No 
one, except one or two in charge, should be allowed nearei' than ten feet ; and 
the kindest thing a bj^-stander can do is to insist on such a space, and to se- 
lect such persons as are willing to go for whatever is needed by the surgeon 0|' 



Accidents and sudden sickness. 1183 

physician, so that there may be no delay, if anything is needed. If there has 
heen a "shock" from a fall or blow, although there may be no fracture or 
external injury, the person is " faint," and should be placed flat on the back, 
with the head, neck, and shoulders slighibj raised; the limbs should be 
straightened out, so that the heart may act as easily as possible ; the cravat, 
collar, ond clotliing, if in the least tight, should be loosened. A suj) of cold 
water will l^riuir reaction soon if the injury is slight; a tea-spoon of l)randy, 
in a table-s])u<)n of water, every two minutes, gentle friction to the extremi- 
ties, a handkerchief wet with cologne-water held to the nostrils, a fan, if the 
weather is hot, will all aid in restoring full consciousness. If thought best 
to remove the patient to his residence, or to a" more favorable place for treat- 
ment, place on a stretcher, settee, or shutter, slipping him on gently, taking 
care that the body is supported along its whole length ; throw a handkerchief 
over the face to prevent the unpleasant sensation of tlie staring crowd, and 
let the stretclier be borne by persons of uniform gait, if possible. A police- 
man's services, if in a city, are iuvalu;ible in keeping off a crowd. When a 
surgeon arrives, his directions will suffice. 

Burns and Scalds. — First put the fire out, if tbe clothing is on fire, throw 
the person on the ground and wrap in carpet, rug, or your coat if nothing else 
is at hand. Begin wrapping at the head and slioulders, and keep the flames 
away from the neck and face, so as to prevent breathing the hot air and con- 
sequent injury to the lungs. If prostration and shock or fainting is ])roduced, 
a little brandy, repeated often until there is a revival of strength, should be 
given. A sui)erficial Inirn, covering a large surface is often more dangerous 
than a deeper one confined to less surface. If there is any cause for appre- 
hension that the hot air has been inhaled, send for a physician at once. If 
the burn is slight in character, ajiply the water-dressing, by placing two or 
more tbicknesses of old linen (from table-clotli or sheet), slightly dampened 
over a surface a little larger than the wound ; fasten on by slips' of sticking- 
plaster, or on with bandages, and keep it wet by frequent applications of 
water. When the pain has moderated, a dressing of pure hog's-lard is one 
of the best. It may be purified, when doubtful, boiling in water until the 
salt and impurities have settled, and then set away to cool until the floating 
lard hardens ; this is gathered, ])laced in a bowl, set in hot water, and kept 
hot until all the water in the lard has passed off, when it is ready for use . 
The common soda used fo'- cooking purposes may be employed as a dressing. 
A thick layer should be spread over the i^art and covered with a light wet 
bandage, keeping it moist and reiunvin'j it wlien necessary. A good dress- 
ing for a slight l)urn or scald is tlie wiiite of an egg, applied with a soft rag 
or brush, applying fresh as the iirst layer dries ; a lather of soap from a shav- 
iug-cup often allayes pain, and keeps out the air. If so serious that a phy- 
sician has been sent for, it is better not to apply any thing, as it may intefere 
with his examination and treatment of the case. In cases too severe for the 
mild treatment given above, send at once for a physician. 

Drowning. — Death is caused b}' cutting off the supply of fresh air from 
the lungs, so that the process of purification of the arterial blood ceases. 
Life is rarelj' restored after an immersion of five or six minutes, but recovery 
has been recorded after twenty minutes. Efl'orts to restore should be con- 
tinued for at least two hours, or until the arrival of a physician. What is 
done must be done quickly. The body should be recovered without loss of 
time, from the water, and laid face downward for a moment, while the tongue 
is pressed back by the finger to allow the escape of water or any other sub- 
stance from the mouth or throat (no water can ever by any possibility get 
into the lungs). This may be done while the body is being conveyed to the 
nearest house ; on arrival, strip off clothing, place on a warm bed, with head 
raised very little, if any, apply friction with the dry hands to the extremities, 



1184 ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 

and heated flannels to the rest of the body. Now breathing must be artifi- 
cially restored. "Silvester's ready method" is most favored by physicians, 
and consists in pulling the tongue well forward, to favor the passage of air 
to the lungs, and then drawing the arms away from the sides of the body, 
and upward, so that they meet over the head, and then bringing them down 
until the elbows almost meet over the ''pit of the stomach." These move- 
ments must be made, and persisted in at the rate of sixteen to the minute. 
Another method is to place the body fiat on the face, press gently on the 
back, turn body on its side or a little beyond, and then, turning back upon 
face, apply gentle pressure again, repeating at the rate of sixteen times a 
minute. As soon as vitality begins to return, a few di'ops of brandy, in a 
little water may be administered, and, in a few minutes^ some beef-tea or 
light nourishment. Persons at all weakend by debility, especially by any 
thing that effects the nervous system, or those recovering from sickness, or 
in the least indisposed, should never venture into water beyond their depth, 
as such conditions predispose to "cramp," against which the best swimmers 
are helpless. 

Sunstroke. — This is favored by intemperance, and by debility brought on 
by woi k in a heated atmosphere. Those who sleep in badly ventilated apart- 
ments are most subject to it. Most cases are preceded by a pain in the head, 
wandering thought and loss of mental control, disturbed vision,, irratibility, 
sense of pain, and weight at pit of stomach, and labored breathing. The skin 
is hot and dry, or covered with profuse perspiration ; the face bluish ; the 
breath rapid and short ; and the action of the heart "flutteriug." In many 
instances the patient does not move an eyelid, from the beginning of the 
main attack until death ensues. 

Carry the patient attacked at once to a cool, airy spot, in the shadow of a 
wall, or to a large room with a bare floor, remove clothing gently, place 
patient on the back, raise head two inches by a folded garnieut, dash entire 
body wdth water profusely, supplying basin with cold water from two buck- 
ets, one of which is filled with water and finely pulverized ice while the other 
is supplying the water used by the attendant. Dash on water with force, par- 
ticularly on head and chest. Two persons may also rub the entire body, par- 
ticularly the head, with a towel in which is wrapped pulverized ice. As soon 
as a decline in heat is noticed remove patient to a dry place, and wipe dry. If 
heat comes on again when consciousness is restored, renew cold applications. 
As soon as the heat decUnes, artificial respiration must be resorted to until 
the natural takes its place. There being real asphyxia, as in drowning, no 
medicine is of use, and alcohol stimulants should be carefully avoided. To 
prevent sunstroke, use no malt or alcoholic liquors, avoid overwork and ex- 
haustion, take plenty of sleep in a well-ventilated room, bathe every night, 
avoid drinking large quantities of water, especially at meals, wear loose- 
fitting garments, protect the head with a covering that will shelter from the 
sun a'nd yet permit free circulation of air over the scalp ; a straw hat of loose 
texture, with a lining that may be wet when going out, and a broad brim to 
protect neck and shoulders, is best. 

Hemorrhages. — Bleeding from the nose may be stopped by lying flat on 
the back, with the head raised and the hands held above it. The nose must 
be covered with a cloth filled with powdered ice, or wrung out of ice-water. 
The head should never be he d over a basin, as the position encourages bleed- 
ing. The blood may be received in a wet sponge. 

When any one coughs or spits up blood, the first thought is that it must be 
from the lungs. A slight knowledge of the characteristics of the blood from 
different parts that may come through the mouth will sometimes save much 
needless anxiety. 



ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 1185 

Blood from the lungs is always bright red in color, because it has just 
been purified by contact with the air. It is frothy, mixed with mucus, in 
small quantity, and is usually coughed up. 

Blood from the stomach is dark red, almost black, is mixed with particles 
of food, comes in large quantities, and is vomited. 

_ Blood from the mouth and gums is of a red color and usually mixed with 
saliva. Unless it has first been swallowed, it is not vomited or coughed up. 

In hemorrhage from the lungs the head and slioulders must be raised. 
Some physicians recommend a table-spoonful of table salt to be given in a 
tumbler of water. It is always safe to give cracked ice. 

Bleeding fi-om the stomach may be checked by the application of a mus- 
tard plaster over the stomach ; cracked ice should be given and the doctor 
sent for. 

In bleeding from wounds of recent amputation there are three things 
that may be done : 

First, press the finger or the hand over the bleeding point. 

Second, press on the main artery supplying the wound, or, if this can 
not be found, applying a bandage as tightly as possible above the wound. 
An excellent tourniquet may be improvised by knotting a handkerchief 
loosely around the limb, thrusting a short stick through it and twisting it 
tight. 

The blood from an artery is bright red and comes in spurts with each beat 
of the heart, while that from the veins is a dark purplish color and flows in 
a steady stream. When the bleeding is from an artery, the pressure should 
be applied between the wound and the heart; when from a vein, the limb 
must be compressed beyond the wound. 

Third, raise the part above the rest of the body, that the blood may drain 
out of it and support it on pillows. It should be bathed in ice-water and 
have ice wrapped in cotton cloths laid on it. 

If fainting ensues, the sufferer should not be immediately roused, as this 
is natures remedy, and acts by lessening the force and activity of the circula- 
tion. If any part of the body has been cut off, it should be cleaned of for- 
eign matter, and at once replaced, wrapped in cotton to retain warmth, and 
a gentle pressure kept on to retain it in place. Circulation is often restored 
and the union made complete. 

ANTIDOTES TO POISONS. 

The first thing to do is to cause their rejection by vomiting, to do which 
place mustard mixed with salt on the tongue, or give large quantities of 
luke warm water, or tickle the throat with a feather. These failing, instantly 
resort to active emetics, like tartar emetic, sulpate of copper, or sulphate of 
/inc. After vomiting has taken place with these, continue it if possible by 
copious draughts of warm water till the poison is entirely removed, df 
course, if vomiting can not be induced, the stomach pump must be employed, 
especially if arsenic or narcotics have been taken. A brief table, formulated 
as follows, may be useful for emergencies. 

POISONS. ANTIDO 

Acids. Alkalies — Soap and milk, chalk, soda, lime-water. 

Alkalies. Vegetable Acids — Vinegar, oil in abundance. 

Alcohol. Common salt, moderately. 

Arsenic. Send for the doctor and his stomach pump. 

Antimony. Oak-bark, strong green tea.. 

Baryta or Lime. Epsom salts, oils, and magnesia. 

Bismuth. Whites of eggs, sweet milk. 

Copper. Whites of eggs, or strong cofiee. 



11S6 



ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 



Gases. 

Iodine. 

Creosote. 

Lead. 

Opium and other 

Narcotics. 
Phosphorus. 
Zinc. 

Mad-dog Bite. 

Bite op Insects. 
Bite of Serpent. 
The foregoing 
antidotes. 



Cold douche, followed by friction. 
Starch, wheat flour in water. 
White of egirs, sweet milk. 
Lemonade, strong, epsom salts. 

Emetics — Cold douche, exercise, and heat. 

Magnesia, in copious draughts. 

Whites of eggs, sweet milk. 

Apply fire in some form to the wound, thoroughly and 

immediately. 
Ammonia, applied freely. 

Same as for mad-dog, followed by whisky to intoxication. 
; are the more common and important poisons and their 



THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 1187 



TtlE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 



Beauty and health constitute a royal inheritence. The child born with 
such a heritage, and brought up by a mother who has the good sense to dis- 
card soothing syrup, narcotics and cordials, and carefully trained up to cleanly 
habits, proper exercise, plenty of air and sunshine, and wholesome iood, 
starts in life with a capital that will in the long run tip the balance against 
the largest fortune in dollars. To keep health and beauty, or to restore it 
when lost, it is necessary to observe the laws of health, discarding quackery 
and panaceas of all kinds as superstitions, and inventions of the devil. Pure 
air and plenty of it, free sunshine and plenty of it, are' better restoratives 
than all the patent medicines under the sun. Too often the doctor brings the 
medicine only to have the medicine bring the doctor again. The sunlight 
will give a lady's cheek a fresher tings and a more delicate complexion than 
all the French powders and rouge in Paris. 



For the Hair. — Wash in cold sage-tea. 

Camphor — put in drawers or trunks will keep away mice. 

The Neck. — Too tight collars and neckerchiefs are apt to produce perma- 
nent swelling of the throat. 

Cocoa Butter. — Apply at night, to face and hands, and wash off in the 
morning. This is excellent for the skin, and keeps it soft and clear. 

To Clean Light Kids. — Put the glove on the hand, and rub thoroughly 
with white corn-meal, using a piece of cotton flannel. 

To keep Pearls Brilliant. — Keep in commor, dry magnesia, instead of the 
cotton wool used in jewel cases, aod they will never lose their briliancy. 

Tonic for the Hair.— Ounce best ca:stor-oil, two ounces each of French 
brandy and bay rum ; scent rosemary and rose-geranium. 

To Cure Chilblains. — Soak feet for fifteen minutes in warm water, put on 
a pair of rubbers, without stockings, and go to bed. 



1188 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 

Cement for Jet. — Use shellac to join, then smoke the joints to make them 
black. 

Mother's Marks — should never be interfered with, except by the advice 
of a physician. 

Tetter or Ringworm — of the face is caused by a disordered stomach, and 
must be cured by proper diet. 

Pimples — are caused by improper diet, and can never be cured except by 
correcting the habits. Cosmetics only injure. 

To Restore Color to Kid Shoes. — Mix a small quantity of good polish black- 
ing ■v\-ith the white of an egg. 

Hair Oil. — Two tea-spoons each of castor oil, ammonia and glycerine ; 
and alcohol enough to cut the oil, and put in a four-ounce bottle half full of 
rain-water. Shake before using. 

Black Heads. — To remove "black heads" in the face, place over the black 
spot the hodow end of a watch key, and press firmly. This forces the foreign 
substance out, so that it may be brushed off and is a cure. 

To Keep off Mosquitoes. — Rub exposed parts with kerosene, or essence of 
peppermint. The odor is not noticed after a few minutes, and children es- 
pecially are much relieved by its use. 

The Breath — Nothing makes one so disagreeable to others as a bad breath. 
It is caused by bad teeth, diseased stomach, or disease of the nostrils. Neat- 
ness and care of the health will prevent and cure it. 

The Skin and Complexion. — "Washing in cool, but not excessively cold, 
water, and general cleanliness, keeps skin healthy and complexion clear. 

Ivory Blacking for Shoes. — Four ounces ivory black, three ounces coarsest 
sugar, one table-spoon sweet-oil, one pint small beer; mix well together. 

Castor-oil for Shoes. — Take a teaspoon of it and rub in thoroughly by a 
lire. Do this when the shoes are new, and several times afterwards, and 
they will last twice as long. 

Dandruff. — One ounce flour of sulphur to one quart of water. Shake 
well at intervals, for a few hours, and, when settled, saturate the head with 
the clear liquid every morning. 

For Chapped Hands, Face and Lips. — Ten drops carbolic acid in one ounce 
glycerine ; apply freely at night. Pure mutton tallow is also excellent. 

Cologne Water. — Thirty drops each oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, oil 
of lemon, and orange-flower water, half pint deoderized alcohol. Cork and 
shake well, 

Corpulency. — An excess of fat is a disease. To reduce the excess, eat lit- 
tle or no butter, fat meat, gravies, sugar, vegetables, or other articles con- 
taining large amounts of starch and sugar. 

Dandruff in the Hair. — There is no simpler nor better remedy for this 
vexacious appearance (caused by a dryness of the skin) than a wash of cam- 
phor and borax — an ounce of each put into a pint and a half of cold water, 
and afterwards rub a little pure oil into the scalp. 

Moth Patches — may be removed from the face by the following remedy : 
tnto a pint bottle of rum put a table-spoon of flour of sulphur. Apply this 
to the patches once a day, and they will disappear in two or three weeks, 




THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1189 

Boston Burnett Powder for the Face. — Five cents worth of bay rum, five 
cents Avorth of magnesia sn^w-flake, five cents worth of bergamot, five cents 
worth of oil of lemon ; mix in a pint bottle and fill up with rain-water. 

To Clean Jewelry. — Any gold jewelry that an immersion in water will not 
injure, can be beautifully cleaned by shaking it well in a bottle nearlv full of 
warm soap-suds to wiiich a little prepared chalk has been added, and after- 
wards rinsing it in clear, cold water, and wiping it on a towel. 

Brush Stand. — A toilet convenience is a white wire stand for hand and 
tooth brushes. It is so contrived that the brushes are kept in place and 

are always within easy and convenient reach. 
The stand is not expensive, and is ornamental as 
well as useful. 

Freckle Cure. — Take 2 oz. lemon juice, or 
half a dram of powdered borax, and one dram 
of sugar : mix together, and let them stand in a 
glass bottle for a few days, then rub on the face 
occasionalh'. 

Bloom of Youth. — Boil 1 ounce of Brazil wood 
in 3 pints of water for 15 minutes ; strain. Add 
% oz. isinglass, X oz. cochineal, 1 oz. alum, }>4 
oz. borax. Dissolve by heat, and strain. 

Cologne Water. — Oils of rosemary and lemon. 

Brush stand. of cach 3^ OZ. ) oils of bergamot and lavender, 

eachi/^ oz. ; oil cinnamon, 8 drops, oils of cloves and rose, each 15 drops; 

best deodorized alcohol, 2 qts. ; shake two or three times per day for a week. 

Food for the Hair. — This, if regularly used, will prevent hair turning grey. 
One part of alcohol to two parts of castor oil. Eub in once a week well about 
the roots. 

Stains on the Hands — from nitrate of silver, may be removed by a solution 
of chloride of lime. Fruit stains are removed by washing the liands without 
soap, and holding them over the smoke of burning matches or sulphur. 

To Remove Sunburn. — Scrape a cake of brown Windsor soap to a powder, 
add one ounce each of eau de Cologne and lemon-juice ; mix well and form 
into cakes. ' Tliis removes tan, prevents hands from chapping, and makes 
the skin soft and white. 

Warts. — Wash with water saturated with common washing soda, and let 
dry without wiping ; repeat frequently until they disappear. Or pass a pin 
through the wart, and hold one end of it over the flame of a candle or lamp 
until the wart fires by the heat, aud it will disappear. 

Moles. — To remove, moisten a stick of nitrate of silver, touch the moles, 
and they will turn black and sore, and soon they will dry up and fall oiF of 
themselves. If they do not entirely go, repeat. It is better, however, never 
to attempt their removal without consulting a physician. 

Cold Cream for Chapped Lips. — One-half ounce spermaceti, twenty 
grains white wax, two ounces pure oil of sweet almonds, one ounce pure 
glycerine, six drops oil of rose ; melt first three ingredients together, and, 
when cooling, add the glycerine and oil of rose, stirring until cold. 

Yankee Shaving Soap. — Take 3 lbs. white bar soap ; 1 lb, Castile soap ; 1 
quart rain water; % qt. beef's gall; 1 gill spirits of turpentine. Cut the soap 



1190 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 

into thin slices, and boil five minutes after the soap is dissolved, stir while 
boiling ; scent with oil of rose or almonds. If wished to color it, use ^a oz. 
vermilion. 

Bad Breath. — Bad breath, from catarrh, foul stomach, or bad teeth, may 
be temporarily relieved by diluting a little bromo chloralum with eight or ten 
parts water, and using as a gargle, and swallowing a few drops just before 
going out. A pint of hromo chloralum costs fifty cents, but a small vial full 
will last a long time. 

Fruit Stains. — may be removed from the fingers in the following manner : 
Mix together half an ounce ci-eam tartar and half an ounce of powdered salt 
of sorrel ; apply a solution of this to the fingers, and the stains will disappear. 
Diluted sulphuric acid may be used, but care should be taken that none of it 
touches any fabric, as the acid will destroy it. 

Flesh Worms. — Black specks on the nose disfigures the face. Remove by 
washing thoroughly in tepid water, rubbing with a towel, and applying with 
a soft flannel a lotion made of three ounces of cologne and half an ounce of 
liquor of potash. Or press out by putting the hollow end of a watch-key 
over each speck. 

Lips or Hands Chapped by cold weather or wind, should be rubbed with 
glycerine generally wheii about to be exposed to the air, or rubbed with honey 
after washing, ^'ever kiss the lips of persons not in health, as disease is 
sometimes contracted in this way, as well as by the use of towels, cups or 
tumblers used by unhealthy persons. 

Bay Rum. — Ten cents worth of magnesia, two quarts each of soft water 
and alcohul, one ounce oil of bay. Dissolve magnesia in rain water, then 
add other ingredients. Wrap filtered paper in form of a funnel, and filter 
carefully through into a bottle and cork tightly. When used, dilute with 
rain water to whatever strength desired. 

Leanness — Is caused generally by lack of power in the digestive organs to 
digest and assimilate the fat-producing elements of food. First restore 
digestion, take plenty of sleep, drink all the stomach will bear in the morn- 
ing on rising, take moderate exercise in the open air, eat oat-meal, cracked 
wheat, Graham mush, baked sweet apples, roasted and broiled beef, culti- 
vate jolly people, and bathe daily. 

Superfluous Hairs. — Are best left alone. Shaving only increases the 
strength of the ha'r, and all depilatories are dangerous and sometimes dis- 
figure the face. The only sure plan is to spread on a piece of leather equal 
])arts of galbanum and pitch plaster, lay it on the hair as smoothly as pos- 
sible, let it remain three or four minutes, then remove it with the hairs, root 
and branch. This is severe but effective. Kerosene will also remove them. 
If sore after using, rub on syveet oil. 

Tlie Face. — To wash properly, fill basin two-thirds full with fresh, soft 
water, dip face in the water and then the hands ; soap the hands well and rub 
with a gentle friction over the face ; dip the face in water the second time 
and rinse off thoroughly, wiping with a thick but soft towel. Pure soaps do 
not irritate the skin. The best are castile, curd, glycerine and other neutral 
soaps. Medicated or higly colored or perfumed soaps should never be used. 

Food. — A good complexion never goes with a bad diet. Strong coffee, 
hot bread and butter, heated grease, highly spiced soups, meats or game, hot 
drinks, alcoholic liquors, fat meats, are all damaging to its beauty. Strong 
tea, used daily, will after a time give the skin the color and appearance of 
leather. Coflee affects the skiu'less but the nerves more, and » healthy 



THl ARTS or THi: TOILET. 1191 



nervous system is necessary to beauty. Late sujjpers, over-eating at meals, 
eating between meals, the use of candies, sweetmeats, preserves, etc., pro- 
duce pimples and blotches. 

Tlie Hands. — The use of gloves, especially kids, help to preserve the soft- 
ness of the hands. Cleanliness and sprinkling with orris-root counteracts 
excessive perspiration. Warls are removed by steeping the hands in warm 
water for half an hour, and then paring away the white and insensible sur- 
face. The nails should be cut frequently, always in oval shape. The nail- 
brush should be full and soft. It should be rubl5ed on a cake of soap and 
then used vigorously. Biting nails is a bad habit. To break it up, in chil- 
dren, dip the ends of the fingers in a solution of aloes. 

The Noxe. — Excessive wiping, snuffing, and blowing, especially in chil- 
dren, deforms the nose, and should be practiced only when necessary for 
cleanliness. A nose leaning on one side, caused by wiping in one direction, 
may be cured by using the luindkerchief with the other hand, or by wear- 
ing occasionally an instrument surgeons employ for that purpose. Large, 
fleshy noses are reduced by wearing at night a contrivance which compresses 
the artery that supplies the nose. Red noses become so by exposure to heat 
or the sun, by alcoholic drinks, or by debility of the b ood-V(^ssels of the skin. 
The latter cause is removed by gentle friction and cold bathing of the feet. 

To Clean Jewelry, Silver, Etc. — To one pint of stale beer, add one-third 
pint strong ammonia, let stand for ten days, keep well corked. Put a 
little of above in a saucer, in another dish some cream of tartar, say one-half 
teaspoon, then take stiff brush, dip in solution, then in cream of tartar, and 
apply to the article to be cleaned. Striking with the brush is better than 
brushing, as thereby you can get into the corners and crevices. Wash the 
articles with soap and warm water after cleaning, and dry in saw dust. For 
Roman gold and frosted jewelry, also silver ware, it is especially recommen- 
ded, and will make the article look like new goods. Keep cream of tartar in 
box or bottle well corked. 

llie Bath — Not only promotes cleanliness, but is a tonic. The skin does 
one-third of the work of breathing, and if the myriad of pores are closed, the 
lungs are overburdened, or else the work is left undone. The tonic effect 
is caused by the contraction of the surface blood vessels, driving the blood 
back to the larger blood-vessels and the heart, bringing on a reaction w'hich 
rushes the blood back to the skin, causing a glow, freer respiration and 
more vigorous action of the whole muscular system. A sponge or hand bath 
are the simplest forms, and should be taken in a moderately warm room. 
As a rule, the more rapidly a bath is taken the better, and it should always 
be followed by friction with the hand or with a not too rough towel. 

The Ear. — The outer ear should be well cleaned and the passage wiped 
out daily with a rag on the end of the little linger, but nothing should be 
inserted further. The insertion of a pin, or any hard substance, frequently 
ruptures the ear. When cleansing is necessary on account of accumulation 
of wax by cold, or other cause, it should be done by syringing with warm 
water, having dropped in two or three drops of glycerine the night before to 
soften the substance to be removed. This often cures sudden deafness. 
Cotton-wool stuffed into the ear is injurious and is seldom necessary. In 
(.onversing with deaf persons it is important to remember that clearness, dis- 
tinctness, and a musical tone of voice is understood much more easily than a 
loud tone. 

Sponge Baskets. — A sponge, when damp, is a nuisance. If hung up it 
mcistens the wall, and if laid down it gets in every body's way and gathers 
dirt. The simple, neat and cheap wii'e basket which hangs on the Avail is a 



1192 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 

good receptacle for it, or a three-cornered piece of oil-cloth, sustained by a 
string fastened to each corner, is a good makeshift for the same purpose. 

Collars that do not Fit — Few gentlemen have philosophy enough to 
endure an ill-fitting collar with patience, but not many understand why they 
do not tit. The fact is, the laundress stretches them the wrong way. Damp 
linen is very pliable, and a good pull will alter a fourteen-inch into a fifteen- 
inch collar in the twinkling of an eye. She ought to stretch them crosswise, 
and not lengthwise. Then in straightening out shirt-bosoms, she makes 
another mistake of the same sort. They also ought to be pulled crosswise 
instead of lengthwise, particularly in the neighborhood of the neck. A 
lengthwise puil draws the front of the neckband somewhat directly under 
your chin, where it was never meant to go ; and, of course, that spoils the fit 
of your collar. With the front of the neckband an inch too high, and the 
collar an inch too long, you have a most undesirable combination. 

Cutting Teeth. — The time the first teeth make their appearance varies 
but the following dates approximate the time : Central incisors from five to 
eight months after birth ; lateral incisors from seven to ten ; first molars from 
twelve to sixteen; cuspids, or eye-teeth, from fourteen to twenty; second 
molars from twenty to thirty-six. The first teeth should be protected from 
decay as far as possible by careful cleaning daily ; if decay makes its appear- 
ance, the cavity should be promptly filled, and the tooth saved until displaced 
by the permanent teeth. About the sixth year, the first molars of the per- 
manent teeth make their appearance. They are generally supposed to belong 
to the first or milk-teeth, and are frequently lost for w:int of care. A little 
more attention given to the first teeth would save parents and children sleep- 
less nights and sufi"ering. 

The Eyes — Damp, foggy weather, the reflection of the bright sunshine 
intense cold, dusty wind, reading on cars in motion, reading by gas or lamp- 
light when the light falls directly on the eyes, sitting before a glowing fire, 
wearing of glasses when not needed, wearing veils, and all indulgences that 
weaken the nervous system, injures the eyes. The most pleasing light for 
work is from a northern exposure. A shade that protects the eyes from the 
light that falls on paper, book or work is an advantage. The light should not 
come from different points, but that from behind the worker is best. A very 
weak or very bright light should be equally avoided. Diseases of the eye 
are often the result of general weakness, and in such cases local treatment 
has little effect. In fitting glasses to the eye great care should be taken to 
adjust the lens to the eye with accuracy. Crown glass is preferable to flint 
on account of its superior hardness, its entire want of color, and its non-de- 
composition of light. Scotch pebbles are unobjectionable except as to cost. 

])re^s. — The first object of dress is protection of the body, second to en- 
hance and bring out its beauty. Dress which does not enhance the beauty 
of the wearer, or which attracts attention from the wearer to itself, is out of 
taste. To be in correct taste it must be "becoming," andin this sense dress- 
in" is an art worthy of the attention and study of the most intellectual and 
accomplished woman. The beauty of dress, to a cultivated eye, does not lie 
in its money value, but in its perfection in detail and perfect adaptation to 
the wearer and the occasion for which it is intended. Any simpleton in pet- 
ticoats, who has plenty of money, can order her clothes from "Worth, 
in the latest Paris styles, but some quiet woman, with brains and taste, in 
simpler costume, will be sure to outshine her in "society." Low-necked 
dresses, dragging skirts, corsets and stays, paddings, heavy skirts which rest 
on the hips, heavy veils, high-heeled boots and every other unphysiological 
abomination in dress, mars beauty and destroys health. 



THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 



1193 




Brush and Comb-Rack. — A very neat white 
wire rack, for holding the hair-brush and 
comb, which usually lie in the way in the 
vicinity of the mirror, may now be had for a 
few cents, and is a great convenience for the 
toilet. 

Cheap Toilet Table. — When a wash stand 
can not be affored. procure a large tliree-cor- 
nered piece of board, large enough to comfortably accommodate a wash bowl, 
pitcher, etc., and fasten it in a corner of the room where the light is good. 
Cover it suitably with colored cambric, tack on the edge a slightly full flounce 
of the same, long enough to reach the floor. Over this place plain book mus- 
lin with box pleatings across the edge and along the bottom. The frame of 
the mirror over it may also be draped wifh book muslin. Neat paper boxes 
covered with fancy paper or zephyr work may be added for holding brushes, 
combs, etc. A neat drawer may easily be fitted under the board, and will be 
found convenient for many purposes. 

Freckles. — Grate horse-radish fine ; let it stand a few hours in buttermilk, 
then strain and use the wash night and morning. Or, squeeze the juice of a 
lemon into half a goblet of water and use the same way. Most of the reme- 
dies for freckles are poisonous, and can not be used with safety. Freckles 
indicate a defective digestion, and consists in deposits of some carbonaceous 
or fatty matter beneath the skin. The diet should be of such a nature that 
bowels and kidneys, will do their duty. Daily bathing, with much friction, 
should not be neglected, and the Turkish bath taken occasionally, if con- 
venient. The juice of a lemon, in which there is as much sugar dissolved as 
the juice will hold in solution, is an excellent remedy for freckles. This 
should be applied with a camel's-hair brush several times daily, until they 
disappear. It must be understood that all acids are astringents in their 
nature, and their too frequent use is as injurious as many apparently more delt- 
terious cosmetics; for, by too frequent and violent contraction of the pores, 
they become overworked, and finally refuse to respond to the action of any 
application ; wrinkles result, and are generally ineradicable, except after a 
tedious dietetic and medical course of treatment. 

Teeth. — Cracking nuts, biting thread, eating hot food, especially bread 
and pastry raised with soda, very cold drinks, alternate contact with cold and 
hot substances, highly seasoned food, alcoholic liquors and tobacco, metal 
tooth picks, and want of cleanliness, are injurious to teeth. After eating, 
the mouth should be rinsed with lukewarm water, and such pieces of food 
as are not thus washed away removed by a quill toothpick. Toothbrushes 
should be elastic and not too hard. Those with hairs not too close 
together are best and most durable. A brush that is too hard may be per- 
manently softened by dipping in hot water. Rub up and down as well as 
across the teeth. Teeth should be ofted examined by a competent dentist. 
A great many, while attentive to their teeth, do moreinjury than good by 
too much officiousness, daily applying some dentrifrice, or tooth-powder, often 
impure and injurious, and rubbing them so hard as not onlj'^ to injure the en- 
amel by excessive friction, but also to hurt the gums even more than by a 
tooth" ic. Tooth-powders advertised in newspapers are to be suspected, as 
same of them are not free from corrosive ingredients. Charcoal (which 
whitens the teeth very nicely), pumice-stone, cuttle-fish, and similar sub- 
stances, are unfit for use in tooth-powders, as all are to a certain extent in- 
soluble in the mouth, and are forced between the margin of the gums, form- 
ing a nucleus for a deposit. Below will be found a few good formulas for 
dentifrices : Three and one half pounds of C7-eta preparata, one pound each 



1194 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 

of powdered borax, powdered orris-foot and white sugar, and two ounces 
cardamon seeds ; flavor with wintergreen, rose or jasmine. If color is desired, 
use one pound of rose-pink and as much less of creta preparata. Tooth-pow- 
ers should be thoroughly triturated in a wedge-wood mortar and finely bolted. 
The following is a simple and cheap prejjaration, and pretty good. Take of 
prepared chalk and fine old "Windsor soap pulverized well in proportion of 
about six parts of the former to one of the latter. Soap is a very beneficial 
ingredient of tooth-powder. 

The Hair. — Professor Erasmus Wilson, of London, who is authority on the 
subject, condemns the washing of hair; but advises that it should be kept 
clean by brushing, this being a more eflective stimulant than water. In cases 
of ordinary falling out of the hair, he prescribed the following : Liquid am- 
monia, alrnond oil, and chloroform, of each one part, diluted with five parts 
of alcohol or spirits of rosemary, which can be made fragrant by the addi- 
tion of a drachm of the essential c.l of lemons. The head should undergo a 
thorough friction with the hairbrush, after which the lotion may be applied. 
It may be diluted, if necessary, and can be applied daily or otherwise. 

For removing scurf, he advises a lotion of borax and glycerino, two 
drachms of each to eight ounces of distilled water. This is cooling, and 
allays dryness of the skin. 

In cases of baldness, a lotion of the following can be used with eflfect : 
Camphor, ammonia, chloroform and aconite, in equal parts, to be rubbed on 
the bare place daily, or twice a day. 

A barber recommends ladies to have their hair shampooed once a month. 
This will bring out the natural luster, soften it, clear it of dust, and rob it of 
that musty smell which comes of having long hair wound up closely for any 
length of time. It will also remove that itching of the head which some 
ladies find so troublesome. 

For Complexion. — Blanch one-fourth pound best Jordan almonds, slip oflf 
the skin, mash in a mortar, and rub together with best white soap, for fifteen 
minutes, adding gradually one quart rose-water or clean, fresh rain-water, 
may be used. When the mixture looks like milk, strain through fine muslin. 
Apply, after washing, with a soft rag. To whiten the skin, and remove 
freckles and tan, bathe three times a day in a preparation of three quarts 
Mater, one quart alcohol, two ounces cologne, and one of borax, in propor- 
tion of two tea-spoons mixture to two table-spoons soft water. Bathing the 
face in pure buttermilk, clear whey, sour milk, new or sweet milk, is soothing 
and healing after walking, riding, driving, rowing or sailing. Do not plunge 
the face into cold water, neither dash the water over the face when suffering 
from sunburn or exposure to wind or water ; the sudden shock is not only 
injurious to the whole system, but has been known to permanentlj^^ deface the 
complexion by a species of tanning which left a brown or yellow tinge impos- 
sible to efface. Or use Qwen Bess Complexion Wash. Put in a vial one 
drachm of benzoin gum in powder, one drachm nutmeg-oil, six droits of orange- 
blossom tea, or apple-blossoms putinh:df pint rain-water, and boiled down to 
one tea-spoonful and strained, one pint of sherry wine. Bathe the face 
morning and night ; will remove all flesh-worms and freckles, and give a 
beautiful complexion. Or, put one ounce of powdered gum of benzoin in 
pint of whiskey ; to use, put some in water in wash-bowl till latter is milky, 
wash with it ; allowing it to dry without wiping. This is perfectly harmless. 

The Hair. — Combs of tortoise-shell, bone or rubber, with not very sharp 
teeth should be used Sharp teeth injure the scalp and produce dandrufl. 
Two brushes, one hard, to clean the hair and scalp, and the other soft, to 
smooth and polish, are best. Clean brushes by rubbing them with bran, or 
wash with one part ammonia and two of water. Combing or brushing 



THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 



119^ 



should be done in the natural direction of the hair, and never against it. In 
the proper way it can not be brushed too much. To keep the scalp clean 
wash ill tepid water with a little pure soap in it, rinse in pure water, dry with 
towels, and then in the sun or by the fire. Oily hair maybe washed once a 
week, light hair less often. Some occupations require that it should be washed 
much oftener. All preparations for the hair are more or less injurious. 
Healthy hair has enough oil of its own, and the application of foreign oil 
destroys its vitality. Preparations containing alcohol fade hair, and make it 
brittle. The only time oil is admissable is after washing. The best prepar- 
ation is one part of glycerine to three of rose-water. Powders made of starch, 
when used, must be washed out of the hair to prevent injury. Those made 
of colored glass are very injurious, cutting and otherwise damaging the hair. 
At night, the hair should be loosened and left free. Night-caps are a relic of 
barbarism. Hair-dyes are very injurious, as they contain more orlesssugar 
of lead, nitrate of silver, and other ingredients, which affect the brain, pro- 
duce paralysis, inflammation of the eyes, and impairment of sight. Gray 
hairs are an indication that the hair-producing organs are weakening. AVhen 
found they should be cut down to the healthy part, and the head should be 
exposed as much as possible, except in the middle of the day, to the sun and 
air. When hair falls out, it indicates a disease of the scalp. To cure, dip 
the head twice a day in cold water and rub with a brush until a glow is pro- 
duced. In case the hair is too long to wet, brush until a glow is produced, 
and then rub into the roots a wash made of three drachms of pure glycerine 
and four ounces of lime-water. 

The Feet. — The largest pores in the body are located in the bottom of the 
feet. For this reason the feet should be frequently and thoroughly washed, 
and the stockings changed often. If great cleanliness is not observed, these 
great pores become absorbent, and the poisons given off are taken back into 
the system. The nails ought to be cut squarely. Blisters may be prevented 
by rubbing the feet after washing, with glycerine. Bunions are caused by 
wearing shoes too tight or too short. They are difficult to get rid of, but may 
be alleviated by wearing easy-fitting shoes, poulticing and putting a rubber 
ring around the spot. Corns, which are caused by continued pressure on 
the foot, may be prevented by wearing woolen stockings and shoes that fit 
well. They are known as hard and soft, but their difference is entirely owing 
to locality. If a corn is situated between the toes, where it is kept moist by 
perspiration, it is of the soft variety ; but, if located on the outside of the toe, 
where it could get no moisture, it would necessarily be hard. They are pro- 
duced by pressure or friction, and are simply a protective growth thrown out 
for the purpose of preventing the tissues being injured. They are sufficiently 
painful at all times, but they are the most unbearable when an accumulation 
of pus takes place beneath them. The escape of this drop of pus is prevented 
by the hardened and thickened outside, which must be poulticed or soaked 
in warm water, and then removed by a sliarp pointed knife, The entire corn 
can be taken out with a little care and patient work, without drawing a drop 
6f blood. The application of caustics should be avoided in the treatment of 
corns, especially in old people, as fatal gangrenous inflammation may be the 
result. Temporary relief from a painful sore corn may readily be obtained 
by applying strong carblic acid. Take the cork out of a small bottle of car- 
bolic, and apply it (the cork) to the corn. Relief will come at once, and you 
will be enabled to walk with comparative comfort till you can find time to 
remove the corn with a knife. Hard corns may be treated as follows : Take 
a'thick piece of soft leather or felt, cut a hole in the center. Upon going to 
bed at night, fill the hole in the center of the leather with a paste made of 
soda and soap ; wash it off in the morning, and repeat the process for several 
nights and the corn will be removed. Half a cranberry, or a piece of lemon, 
bound upon a corn will soon kill it. 



1196 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. 

Perfumerij. — The following receipts are of choice perfumes, and are made 
by compounding the articles in each receipt, and tlien adding as much dis- 
tilled water as can be mixed, and not have it become milliy, which will vary 
from two to eight ounces, according to the perfume; then add deodorized 
alcohol until there are two quarts of perfumery : 

Essence Bouquet. — Four ounces extract musk, two of extract tube rose, 
one drachm otto rose virgin, and one-fourth drachm otto bergamot, one- 
half drachm each otto neroli super and red cedar wood, eight minims otto 
verbena (true), ten of bimento, three of patchouly, twelve of English laven- 
der; add water and alcohol as above. 

Jockey Club. — Five ounces extract jasmine, twenty of extract orris, seven 
of extract musk, one and one-half extract van 11a, one and one-half drachms 
each of otto rose virgin and santal flor, two and one-half otto bergamot, and 
two of benzoic acid, forty minims otto neroli super ; water and alcohol as 
above. 

Patchouly. — Two drachms each otto pachouly and styrax, eight ounces 
each extract musk and orris, four of vanilla, and forty minims each santal 
.fior and rose virgin ; water and alcohol as above. 

Wood Violet. — Twelve ounces extract orris, two of tube rose, and of jas- 
mine, four of musk, two drachms otto of bergamot, one of English lavender, 
ten minims verbena (true), twelve minims amygdala amar (any druggist will 
have it), six minims coriander, and four minims sweet flag, and one and a 
half drachm benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above. 

West End. — Twelve ounces of extract orris, four extract of jasmine, eight 
of extract musk, four of extract cassia, one of extract styrax, three drachms 
otto bergamot, one and one-half neroli super, and one each of otto rose vir- 
gin, rpd-cedar wood (true) and benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above. 

Tube Rose. — Twenty-four ounces extract tube rose, four of musk, one of 
jasmine, one drachm otto rose virgin, two of benzoic acid, and ten minims 
of otto neroli super; water and alcohol as above. 

Stephenotis. — Four ounces each extract cassia and tube rose, eight each 
of musk and orris, two of jasmine, three of tonka, one drachm each otto rose 
virgin and benzoic acid, one-half drachm otto neroli super; water and alco- 
liol same as above. 

Rondeletia. — One ounce otto English lavender, two each of musk and 
vanilla, four of orris, half ounce each otto cloves and bergamot, two drachms 
otto rose geranium (Turkey), one of benzoic acid, twenty minims true otto 
cinnamon, ten minims otto rose virgin, one of santal fior; water and alcohol 
as above. 

New-Mown Hay. — Twenty-five ounces extract tonka, six of musk, eight 
of orris, one of vanilla, one drachm each extract styrax, bergamot and santal 
fior, and one and a half of benzoic acid, fifteen minims otto neroli super, ten 
each of otto rose virgin, lavender (English) and patchouly, and six minims 
otto of cloves. 

Simple — Garden perfumes are charming in linen when put away in 
drawers. For the handkerchief the perfume, is more delicate, and much 
more desirable than the stronger odors so freely used. Always preserve the 
trimmings of rose-geraniums, in envelopes, for such purposes, and lay in 
plenty of sweet clover when in blossom. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1197 



THE FLOW^ER OARDEN. 



By R. Rennie McGill. 



The culture of flowers is the most interesting occupation in the world — 
a never-ending source of delight. Where else can we And for the body and 
mind a recreation so beautiful, so instructive, or that will afford more last- 
ing pleasure, than that of tending for the floral emblems of God's love? 
What would the world be without flowers ? Thanks to the all-wise Creator 
we find them everywhere. On mountain top, in phady dell, midst towering 
rocks and along the banks of rippling brooks. They are as free as the air 
we breathe, and who shall say they do not teach of our Father's love, wis- 
dom and wondrous power ? Whose head but His could put this exquisite 
coloring into the Jacqueminot Rose, or design the curious petals of the Pas- 
sion flower? Beautiful objects as these are to the naked eye, how much 
more so do they become even under the simplest form of a microscope. We 
may take the keenest razor that can be obtained, place it under a microscope, 
and the edge will appear jagged, coarse and rough, and full of imperfections. 
Not so with Nature's handiwork, for the more critically it is examined, the 
more its hidden perfections surprise us, and we are forced to exclaim: "0 
Lord ! how manifold are thy works ; in wisdom hast thou made them all. 

The culture of flowers teaches industry, patience and hope. No one ex- 
pects flowers to grow on hard, uncultivated ground ; hence we must spade it 
or plow it, then industriously weed it, or else our plants would soon be choked 
up. We sow the seeds in hope that they will spring and reward our care by 
producing beautiful flowers, and we must cultivate the virtue of patience be- 
cause some plants are great sluggards, while the tendency of men and things 
in this age is to be in a hurry. The industry with which this recreation haa 
been pursued, shows itself plainly in the great number of the highly im- 
proved plants which adorn the gardens of the present day in contrast to those 



1198 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



which were cultivated some fifty years ago. Take, for instance, the Pansy, 
a flower that is universally known and loved the world over. It is only a 
little more than half a century ago that the improvements began in this little 
flower. A few years ago there were but few books or magazines published 
devoted to flowers ; now there is hardly a periodical but that lias at least one 
or more columns relating to the subject, while floricultural books, magazines 
and catalogues are scattered broadcast all over the land. Many of these are 
highly embellished with beautiful engravings and colored plates which 
create a desire for possession of plants thus pictured. In this way the florist's 
business has assumed enormous proportions so that it is quite common to 
meet with a greenhouse in a town of very few hundred inhabitants. It is a 
wholesome occupation. Ladies who fancied themselves so completely broken 
down in health that they hav^ wished for death, in several instances 
which have come under my observation have been induced to take a little 
exercise daily among the flowers. The desire to do something took posses- 
sion of the patient, the effortof setting out aplant here, pulling a weed thei-e, 
scratching the surface of the soil with a light rake became' a pleasure, and 
while they were doing this they were slowly and surely returning to health. 
The slight action necessary to labor with the few tools needed for ladies' 
gardening operation is just suflJicient to set the blood into proper activity, and 
in every instance that I recommended it, I have been told that it worked 
wonders. A few years ago it was considered unwholesome to have plants in 
the house, but it has been proved by the most positive demonstration that 
such is not the case. And here let me introduce a few lines from a correspon- 
dent. "Flowers form one of the most important factors in civilization. It 
seems to have pleased the all-wise maker of the universe to beautify the hill- 
sides, the valley, the forest, and even the low ground that is nearly or quite 
covered with water with lovely and beautiful flowers. Then why should not 
man, who was made after the image of his Maker, and has some of those long- 
ings for the beautiful and the perfect follow such a pleasing example and culti- 
vate the flowers that have been given him so plentifully and thereby beau- 
tifj'^ his home ?" Flowers are associated with all that is bright and beautiful 
on earth. They have a language and they speak to us of Nature and Nature's 
God. The following beautiful lines so thoroughly echo my feelings that I 
feel safe in advising all to make use of the sentiments conveyed in them : 

Make your home beautiful — bring to it ilowers. 

Plant them around you to bud and to bloom; 

Let them give light to your loneliest hours- 
Let them give light to enliven ynur gloom. 

If you can do so, make it an Eden 

Of beauty and gladness almost divine; 
'Twill teach you to long for that home you are needing, 

The earth robed in beauty beyond this dark clime." 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 119D 

THE OUT DOOK GARDEII. 

As to the exact situation for a flower garden, it is not always in onr 
]jower to choose. A level spot, however, is preferred, for if it slopes to an}- 
extent, heavy rains will wash away the soil. The best location is one having 
a southern aspect, sheltered from the north and west winds. A location 
which lies to some other aspect, the east for example will answer, hut an 
inclination to the north or west or any point between these should be 
avoided if possible. , , . ■, 

The soil must be rich. In our western country it is abundantly fertile, 
but if it is not so, it must be brought into that condition by heavy manuring 
and deep working. If it is clayey and heavy, sand will make it light, and if 
it is too sandy, wood ashes and well rotted manure will be of great benefit to 
it. Have it made deep, rich and dry— not too drj'— and you have what is 
wanted for your flower garden as far as soil is concerned. If the ground is 
very poor, it will pay to cart it oH altogether and replace it with better. 
That which may be obtained from an old cow pasture is the best for this pur- 
pose I have ever found. Where decayed forest leaves can be had, a portion 
maybe advantageouslv mixed with the soil. 

The best time to commence a flower garden is in the Autumn, so that by 
the middle of October the beds may be in readiness to receive the bulbous 
and many of the herbaceous plants and such shrubs as are usually set out at 
that season. The work therefore may for this be commenced in say Sep- 
tember ; if it must be deferred until Spring let work be begun then at the 
earliest moment the soil will work without sticking to the spade. But as 
Autumn is decidedly the best time, we will proceed to the laying out of the 
flower garden. The writer is not what is known as a landscape gardener, 
nor is it Ids design to give elaborate plans, for those who can afford to lay 
out a garden in a luxurious manner will l>e likely to call in the services of an 
expert. As to the style, it may be either square, round, oblong or irregular, 
and in such manner as the taste of the owner may suggest. It is usually 
most convenient to lay off the'^ground into beds, or walks may be made and 
tlie adjoining ground planted with shrubs or low ornamental trees for a back- 
ground and in front of these tall-growing herbaceous perennial plants may 
find a place. Let the garden be leveled, the walks laid out, and dugout as 
M'ell if it is proposed to fill them in with gravel, broken bricks or small 
stones ; the next thing in order will be the edging. For this purpose there is 
nothing to my mind so neat as box, but it is seldom seen now-a-days, indeed 
I can lujt call to mind having seen a garden in the West where the edgings 
are made of box. Grass makes a neat edging where it is well kept ; pinks, 
too, make a pretty and fragrant edging, and one of the Sedums which bears 
a star-like yellow flower is very pretty, but needs frequent trimming to keep 
it within bounds,— any or all of these may be used by way of a border. 

There are some who will not go to all the trouble to lay out a flower gar- 
den. A simple way then is to make one upon the grass, as the beds are 
simplv cut out of the lawn, then raised in the middle so that water will 
run off and then planted. This system can be elaborated to a wonderful 
extent, as those who mav have seen the so called "carpet beds" in the South 
Park of Chicago will admit. The plan is wrought out by putting together 
various low growing plants so that when grown they represent the design of 
the artist, sometimes a dial, again some prominent man. Indeed there is no 
end to what may be done in this way, although it requires a great many 
plants. The little star and ribbon beds are made by first cutting the bed, to 
the proper shape, and then filling in with plants whose flowers will produce 
the colors desired. One of the most beautiful stars of an azure blue was 
wrouo-lit out with skv blue pansies. A graceful ribbon bed had tall growing 
asters for the back ground, followed by lines of verbenas and phloxes of var- 



1200 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



ious colors. Two beds that I made years ago were constructed thus : For 
centre of circle, a white foliage plant, cineraria maritima, around that a ring of 
golden phyrethrum, next a circle of Master Christine geranium, (light pink), 
the whole edged with blue lobelia. The ribbon bed had dahlias for the back 
ground, then a line of perilia, a dark level foliage plant, next a row of scar- 
let flowered geraniums, then a line of dwarf yellow coleus, and the outside 
row of all, verbenas. In addition there should be other beds reserved for plant 
ing of choice bulbs and the small annuals that are not showy except in masses. 
Three feet square is a fair size for such beds, though they may be propor- 
tioned to the size of the garden, but above all things do not contract the 
walks at the expense of the appearance of your garden, 

WHAT TO PLANT. 

The garden being prepared in the fall of the year as suggested, roots of 
herbaceous plants may be procured and set out. Among those which now 
occur to me are Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Phloxes, Canterbury-bells, 
Ked-hot Poker Plant, Columbine and Golden Hod, The common or popular 
name is purposely given. All are easily cultivated for as a rule they will 
grow where anything will. Once in three years they should be divided and 
transplanted. Division should be done either at the end of Summer or at 
the time of making garden in the Spring. 

ABOUT LILIES. 

All lilies should be moved in the fall, say October, and when they are 
to be grown in beds let these be about three feet wide and as long as you 
please. Put the lily bulbs in deep — not less than six inches — and keep a 
mulch or covering of straw over them the first year. Old, half -decayed 
leaves from the woods is the very best for the purpose, but when these can 
not be obtained straw will do very well. Lilies form two sets of roots ; the 
first start from the base of the bulbs shortly after planting and remain as 
long as there is life in the bulb. When the flower stem is formed another 
set of roots grows on top of the bulbs whereby the species is increased, for 
among these the young bulbs are found. Nearly all of the hardy lilies thrive 
best in a cool, moist soil, one that does not become hard and dry in Summer. 
It is not necessary, however, to plant them in wet, boggy soils, but a soil that 
is constantly moist is preferable to one that parts with all its moisture in 
time of drought. 

Some lilies do better in boxes than in the garden, particuly Auratum, 
Candidam and Brownii. The pot, box, or tub should be large enough to hold 
at least one peck of soil, which should be good garden soil, rather sandy. 
Set the bulb at least six inches below the surface of the soil, and press firmly 
with the hand. Give water enough to keep them from drying away — little 
while resting — plenty when growing. Set anywhere until severe cold w^eather, 
then remove to the cellar. If kept too warm, a spindling growth will result. 
When mild weather comes bring them to the air and light. 

The so-called "Easter Lily" (L. Candidum) and Lily of Purity (L. 
Harrisii), the latter being an improvement of the old L. Langiflorum, bear 
forcing, that is by a certain treatment are made to bloom outside of their 
natural season. These two varieties are most extensively grown by commer- 
cial florists to produce cut flowers for Easter. Mr. Peter Henderson, who 
probably stands at the head of the florist's profession in America, says that 
the method is to pot the Candidum bulbs in six-inch pots any time from 
Septenil)er until the fore part of December, sinking the pot containing the 
early potted bulbs out of doors in a sheltered warm spot, and covering with 
leaves as cold weather approaches, so they shall not get frozen at any time. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1201 

Those that are potted later, say from the middle of November, should be 
plunged in the same way in a cool greenhouse or in a cold frame. This last 
is simply an ordinary hot-bed frame having a glass cover. When the pots 
are filled with roots, they may be brought to a higher temperature, say 55° at 
night, and 10^' to 15° higher in the day-time. If the pots are well filled with 
roots, the bulbs will come into bloom from eight to ten weeks after being 
placed in that temperature. The treatment as given will answer also for the 
Lily of Purity, except that it should first be put ii) four-inch pots and remain 
there until the plant is three or four inches high. Then change to a six-inch 
putting the ball on the bottom, so that all or nearly all of the new soil is on 
top of tlie bulb. Soon after flowering this variety will show a disposition to 
rest, and it may remain in the pot or box until September. Then repot and 
treat as before, but after two years of this forcing the bulb will have become 
exhausted that it will be advisable to plant itln the Uly bed out-doors to 
recuperate. 

There are so many lilies in cultivation that the inexperienced are often 
unable to decide upon what they should purchase. Let such by way of a 
beginning get a bulb of each of these, Auratum. Candidum, Lancifolum- 
rubrum and album, Harrisii and double Tiger. When one has learn to grow 
these successfully then money may be invested in the more costly, but beau- 
tiful Brownii and the California lilies. 

HOLLAND BULBS. 

The person who would have a beautiful flower garden from the earliest 
days of returning spring, must procure and plant in the fall, some of the so- 
called Holland Bulbs. These consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, Cro- 
cuses, Snowdrops and others. The soil for bulbs should contain a liberal 
pro])ortion of sand— at least one third. In planting, always measure the 
depth from the top of the bull). Small bulbs and tubes,'such as crocus, 
snowdrop, Spanish iris, ranunculus and anemone, should be planted about 
two inches deep; tulips and narcissuses, three inches; hvaeinths, four 
inches ; and crown imperials, five. The cost of these bulbs has been so 
greatly reduced in late years, that an almost nominal sum put into them 
will amply repay for the very slight labor that is required to bring them into 
bloom. Cover the buds thoroughly after the frost sets in, with four or six 
inches of old manure, hay, straw, or dry leaves. Plant the bulbs where they 
need not be disturbed for several years, especially the narcissuses and snow- 
drops. Hyacinths, crocuses and tulips should be taken up every thu-d year. 
This should be done after the bulbs ripen in the summer. 

_ What has been said will bring us up to the closing months of the year, 
a time when little or no further work can be done in the flower garden, so try 
head work during the winter. Make a definite plan of the arrangement of 
the beds for next summer, and the effects your pro])osed combination are 
likely to produce. It is customary in the larger gardens to draw diagrams 
ot the flower l)eds upon paper, and color these with such tints as they will be 
likely to assume when in flower. Read up all good literature bearing on this 
subject ; decide upon what you want to purchase in the way of trees, shrubs, 
plants, bulbs or seeds ; make out your order earlv, and place it in the hands 
of some reliable person, for execution. Deal always with principals ;— no 
agents,— then if any thing turns out contrary to expectations ; a pleasant 
letter to the person or firm, from whom you purchased, will generally bring 
about a satisfactory settlement. 

SPRING FLOWERS. 

The advent of spring is usually announced by the bloom of the crocuses 
and snowdrops ; indeed they are often seen pushing their pretty flower* 



1202 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



through the snow. As soon as may be after this, remove the litter whicli 
has lain upon the bulb beds, not all at once, lest a severe frost kill the tender 
shoots just peeping above the ground. Soon the other bulbs will appear, 
the narcissuses, the hyacinths, and the tulips will add their beauty and 
fragrance. 

While the bulbs are coming rapidly forward into bloom, preparations 
for the garden which is to be the summer glory and autumn pride, may be 
attended to. We will assume that the seeds of annuals have been obtained ; 
let us take some of the more tender varieties and sow them in boxes in the 
house, so that they will be stout plants when wanted to set out in the open 
ground in May and .Tune. To fill out some of tlie beds, verbenas, pansies, 
phloxes stocks, petunias, and the various kinds of Japan pinks will be in 
order, and all of these can be much forM'arded into early bloom by being sown 
in the house. Cigar boxes are very handy, but the bottom must first be per- 
forated, and broken pots or shells put in the bottom for drainage Then take 
good, rich earth and rub it through a sieve, or your fingers will answer, to 
take out all the lumps. Fill the boxes and then carefully sprinkle the seed 
over the surface of the soil; sift on enough soil to cover the seed, sprinkle 
Avith water very gently, and then set in a rather dark place. If it is warm, 
the seed will start earlier. A pane of glass laid over, or even a sheet of oiled 
paper, is a great help. If you can give them a warm place, the seeds will 
start sooner. We might here sugest the use of a Hot Bed, but this requires 
more care in construction and operation than an amateur can be supposed 
to bestow. This is the way to proceed, however; You take an old box, say 
about five or six feet long and three feet wide, and with an old window sash 
for a covering, you have what gardeners call a Cold Frame. A hole the size 
of the box is dug two or three feet deep and filled in with strawy manure 
which should be well trampeled down until full. Put about six inches of 
soil over the manure, and on this set your box, carefully heaping the earth 
around the outside and put on the glass cover. In a few days the heat will 
be up, when the top must be opened some to allow the firey heat to escape. 
This done, put in the seed boxes. But whether you have a hot bed, or not, 
once the seeds are sown let them remain in partial darkness several days, for 
the seeds to swell, and keep the earth moist ; if the seedlings get' dry even 
once, they are ruined. As soon as you see them sprouting give light and air ; 
if not too cold; or else the seedlings will spindle and die. When the tiny 
little plants have four or more leaves ; transplant into small pots and there 
let them grow until wanted to set in the beds. To do this, first dig a hole 
and pour a little water into it, then turn the pot over, strike it a smart rap 
and the ball of earth will come out with the plant ; place it in the hole and 
press the earth around it. Plants set out with balls go right to growing, and 
seldom need any shading ; but it is well to transplant in the evening or on 
a clear day. In the open air towards the last of April may be sown asters, 
1 alsams, candytuft, phlox, petunias, zinnias, cockscomb, larkspur 
and indeed almost any of the hardy annuals. These mentioned will bear 
transplanting. Those who admire sweet peas should get the seed of these 
in the open ground as soon as it can be worked. Plant about three inches 
deep, and give brush for support. Then there is the Escholotz, a (California 
poppy), very showy, having a long tap root, and Mignonette, which, with the 
sweet peas, must be sown where they are to bloom, as they do not take 
kindly to transplanting. 

CLIMBING VINES. 

Vines, while they are the most graceful of plants, are very easily culti- 
vated. The Maderia vine is one of the easiest grown, and a very rapid 
climber. In the spring put a tuber in the ground as you would a potato, and 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



1203 



in a very short time it will cover a large space. Dig up the roots in fall and 
winter, same as potatoes in a cellar. 

For a most graceful climber and a rapid grower, as well as beautiful 
bell-shaped flowers ; there is nothing equal to the cobea. The seeds are very 
thin, almost flat, and require to be planted on their edges. Needs consid- 
erable heat to start the seed. Florists usually supply young plants for less 
than amateurs can raise them for. Being tender, the cobea must not be set 
out doors until the weather is quite warm. 

The cypress vine, both red and white, with their lovely foliage, are very 
beautiful trained upon strings. I remember of a post with a bird-house on 
top. At the base the ground was spaded up in a circle some three feet across^ 
and cypress vine trained from Uiere upon strings to the alighting board of the 
bird-house. It was much admired. The seeds of the cypress vine, canna 
and other hard shelled kinds may be hastened in germination by soaking for 
24 hours in warm water. 

Maurandia is a somewhat delicate vine that comes readily from seed. 
It does well on trellesis or even brush, such as given to support peas. ' Afew 
maurandia seeds placed in a cow's horn, previously filled with soil, has given 
us a most beautiful living screen in the parlor window. Strings were woven 
backward and forward for it to run upon, and it has done well. 

Nasturtiums,— the tall growing kinds, are pretty grown upon strings or 
trellesis during summer. 

Gourds, with their curious and wonderful forms, are worthy of culti- 
vation. One of the most singular is what is called the "nest-egg", from the 
fact that the fruit makes an excellent substitute for the nest-egg in the 
poultrv-house. The fruit is in sbape, size and color, as near as can be, a 
counte'rfeit egg. The dipper gourd is made by cutting away the side of Her- 
cules club. The so-called sugar-trough variety is useful for many purposes. 

There are one or two other climbing vines which once grown are sure to 
bocome permanent favorites. These are the Balsam Apple and Pear and 
Bryonopsis Laciniata. The fruit of the latter is very attractive and the foliage 
as graceful as can be imagined. 

The vines that have been spoken of are all annuals, that is, the seed is 
sown from which plants spring up, bloom, mature their seed and then die 
all in one season. There are a few vines whose roots are perennial, and 
which may be grown from seed sown in Autumn. One of these is the Alle- 
gheny Vine, or Mountain Fringe. It is quite common in the woods in East- 
ern States, but I have never seen it wild elsewhere. For beautiful featherly- 
like foliage and gracefulness it has no equal. It stands our severe Iowa 
winters with impunity. 

The Everlasting Sweet Pea is another beautiful plant which grows to a 
wonderful size with age. Its flowers much resembles the ordinary Sweet 
Peas onlv that thev are firmer, and, I think, more fragrant. 

For covering a wall there is nothing equal to a well-established Wisteria. 
It produces lovely purple flowers in great clusters which hang down like 
launches of grapes. It has the disadvantage of being rather a slow grower, 
requiring from five to seven years to get thoroughly established. Those who 
can patiently wait, however, will be amply rewarded, for it is a most mag- 
nificent vine. 

The Trumpet Creeper and Honeysuckle are hardy as oaks, and are not 
excelled as vines to cover porches, outhouses, etc. 

BEDDING PLANTS. 

The plants that are chiefly used for this purpose are geraniums, coleus, 
verbenas, and roses. There are others which are admirably adapted, but 
are not near so popular as these I have named. The shapes of tlie beds may 



1204 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



be as previously given ; but while beds constructed after those plans are very 
handsome, I am more in favor of oblong beds, say ten or fifteen feet long, and 
five or six feet wide. The center will aS'ord space for tall growing plants, 
while those of dwarf habit can be planted in the front. To my mind, 
the prettiest flower beds are those which have plenty of clean bright grass 
around them for a back-ground. 

Most people make it a rule to have some house plants in winter, and of 
these, geraniums, as a rule, will be found in the greatest proportion. When 
spring comes it is customary to plant them out of doors just as soon as the 
days begin to grow warm, and often many plants are lost because they 
were not sufficiently hardened to undergo the change of temperature from 
the house to the open air. A better plan is to wait until the nights are 
warm, and in a northern latitude, from the middle to the last of May is early 
enough to put them out of doors, and it is well even then to place them 
on a covered porch for a day or two. 

Coleus, more popularly known as foliage plants, are in great demand for 
bedding. They are cultivated for the beautiful leaf markings, the flowers 
being insignificant. There are some hundreds of varieties, some differing as 
much in habit and color as day and night, while there are other sorts which 
require the practical eye of an expert to detect any difterence. 

Heliotropes and Lantanas make excellent bedding plants. They bloom 
freely, are easily grown and need no particular attention. 

The Verbena is one of the most popular bedding plants in cultivation. It 
is grown readily from seed, and embraces nearly every shade of color in its 
flowers. They do best in a piece of new ground, such as can be cut out of a 
grass plot in front of the house, removing the sods and digging the ground 
thoroughly, One plant in ground so prepared will cover from three to five 
feet of space, 

The Pansy is a splendid bedding plant. It does best in a partially shaded 
situation. The north side of a house, for instance. 

For brilliancy in color and duration in bloom, nothing can equal Phlox 
Drummondi. The Candytuft, in mixture, Clarkia and Nemophila all look 
pretty each grown in a mass. This is done by sowing the seed where it is 
intended they should bloom. 

One of the most beautiful beds the writer possessed was composed of 
Balsams in many varieties. Another beautiful one was composed of Ger- 
mantown week stock. 

I have in mind a garden in New Jersey which was a mass of flowers from 
early Spring until late Fall, and nearly all were what one calls herbaceous 
perennials. The roots of these live over winter and go on increasing with 
great rapidity. All the care needed is division of the roots once in two or 
three years. Of these, I have in mind a dozen or more varieties of Poenies, 
Phloxes, Lychnis, Columbines, Canterbury Bells, and some others whose 
names I do not now remember. The Sweet William and the China Pink 
were there, too, in great abundance. 

SHRUBS. 

There is nothing which can impart a greater charm to the yard about 
the house, than a few well grown shrubs. They need not be many, and they 
need not be of expensive varieties. Some of the old kinds are still the best 
for general use. because they are quite as beautiful as the newer sorts and 
we know how to treat them so that there will be no experiment in undertaking 
their cultivation. The deutzias are all fine, so are the spireas and weige- 
lias. For places where a large bush is wanted, there are the lilacs, the 
mock orange, the hawthorns and viburnums. For trellesis, you can get 
nothing better than the hardy honeysuckle ; they will give flowers all th« 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1205 



season, both beautiful and fragrant. If you want the best effect from them, 
plant the red and white varieties together, and let the branches of the two 
mingle over the trellis. They are excellent plants for an arch over the gate 
or porch. The clematis is another hardy plant suitable for arbors, etc. 

SUMMER BLOOMING BULBS. 

A bulb is really an underground bud which contains within itself the 
leaves and flowers of the future plant. Further back we spoke of planting 
the Holland bulb as they are called. In the early spring aaother planting ot 
bulbs and tubers will give us beautiful flowers in summer. 



These have been much improved of late years and are very showy 
flowers which is all the reccmmendation we can give them, Still they have 
their admirers. Dry tubers can be had quite early in the spring and then 
are planted iu pots or boxes in the house or a hot bed, if it is to be had, to 
ptartthem. In May they may be planted out in the bed or border where 
they are to bloom. The tall growing kinds will require tying to sticks. The 
dwarf or pompone varieties are much in demand now-a-days. 

GLADIOLUS. 

These proauce nowers oi various colors and are well worthy of the very 
slight attention they require. They are natives of the Cape of Good Hope 
and are sometimes known as the "Corn Lily," By hybridization and culti- 
vation of the seedling there are thousands of distinct varieties and the cost 
is very slight, some florists selling them as low as 50 cents per dozen. The 
bulbs should be set in the ground as soon as the weather is settled, in good 
soil, that which will grow good corn or vegetables will answer. Put the 
bulbs in deep — about 6 inches for the larger ones, and the smaller ones propor- 
tionately less. In a short time they will throw up spikes which will grow 
two feet high and upwards and to prevent a sudden gust of wind from break- 
ing the spikes off, neat stakes should be provided and the spikes tied to 
them. When done blooming cut away the flower spikes — not the leaves — 
and allow the bulb to ripen. It will be ready to dig when the leaves have 
turned dry and yellow. When dug it will be found there are at least two 
and often three bulbs in place of one planted, so rapidly do they increase. 
Keep in the house over winter in a dry state and plant out again the follow- 
ing spring. 

TUBEROSES . 

The best bulbs for flowering are those which are large and plump. Those 
which are wanted to bloom very early should be started in April or May in 
pots or boxes of earth set in a green house, hot-bed or even a warm room. 
In about four or five weeks later they may be put,in the garden, where they 
will usually bloom in August. But supposing you, by some means, had no 
opportunity to start them in the manner suggested, proceed as follows : 
Prepare the ground by deep digging and apply old manure liberally, then 
first having removed all the ofi"sets which are clustered around the large bulbs, 
plant the bulbs in rows twelve inches apart, and six inches apart in the 
rows, setting them three inches deep. Keep the ground at all times free 
from weeds, and well stirred up by the use of a hoe. After the first frost, 
which usually occurs in October, the bulbs should be lifted and allowed to 
dry in the sun a day or two, being careful to protect from frost at night. 
When thoroughly dried they should be cleaned, removing the leaves and 



1206 THE FLOWER GARDElSf. 



allowing two or three inches of the stalk to remain ; then store in a warm 
closet until wanted for planting. 

The very small bulbs or offsets are planted like peas in rows one foot 
apart, six inches between every two bulbs in the row, and three or four 
inches deep. Cultivate the same as the full-grown bulbs, and these offsets 
with two years' cultivation will form bulbs of blooming size. 



To my mind these are the handsomest and most stately of all the summer 
blooming bulbs. They are chiefly used as ornamental plants at the backs of 
borders on lawns. They grow readily from seeds, which are very hard, and 
should be soaked in tepid water before sowing. The most common way to 
get these plants, however, is to buy a tuber from a florist in the spring; 
Do not i)ut it out in the open ground until the weather has become warm — 
say the flrst of June. At that time make a hole about eighteen inches square, 
and put in a good supply of old manure, cover with an inch or two of soil, 
and on this place your canna tuber. If the weather is favorable by August, 
this tuber will have produced from four to six stalks, usually about six feet 
high, surmounted by lovely flowers. There are several varieties, and in 
nearly all of them both the foliage and the bloom is different. The roots are 
difficult to keep over winter, but where one has a real warm room, dig up the 
roots after first frost and set in a warm place to evaporate the moisture. In 
the greenhouse we keep these by the sides of the flues and even then loose 
some to rot. The seedlings usually bloom the second year. 

CALADIUM ERCULENTUM. 

Where one wants a really odd plant, and one with most beautiful foliage, 
let them purchase a root of the above. In appearanee it will remind you of 
a turnip, but one never knows the beauties that are hidden away in a dry 
bulb. Let us suppose it is May and your caludium has arrived. You want 
a good large hole dug, as much as three feet across the top, and about two 
feet deep ; put about a foot of old manure in, then your bulb, and cover it, 
say six inches dee]} ; give it plenty of water at all times ; seemingly it can 
never get enough, and in a few weeks a stalk about a foot high will have 
grown, this will soon unfold and show you a leaf that from a fancied resem- 
blance to an elephant's ear, has caused tJiis plant to be so named. I have 
grown these plants close by a wall so as to supply them abundantly with 
water and one year got a single leaf which measured thirty-three inches 
across. It bears a yellow flower, but very seldom produces one. In winter 
care is about the same as recommended for cannas. 



One more bulb is the summer blooming oxalis. For the border of a bed 
or a walk there is nothing so economical and beautiful. A hundred bulbs of 
these can be bought for ten cents, and these planted in a row about three 
inches apart, will by fall have increased to thousands. There are two 
varieties, Lasindria, the largest with a light green leaf, and a pretty pink 
upright flower, does not increase so rapidly as Dieppi which has dark foliage 
and a dwarf creeping habit. 

None of the summer bulbs will endure our northern winters. All must 
be dug up in fall, carefully dried, and ke,pt free from frost until planting time 
comes again. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1207 



Floral Hints. 



To Kill Earth-Worms. — Ten drops of carbolic acid in a pint of water, 
poured over earth in flower-pots will kill all earth-worms. 

Sure Shot for Rose Slugs. — Make a tea of tobacco-stems and a soap-suds 
-of whale-oil or carbolic soap, mix and apply to the bush with a sprinkler, 
turning the bush so as to wet the under as well as the ujjper part of the 
leaves ; apply before the sun is up three or four times. 

Lily of the Valley. — ^Those who have this in their gardens may secure 
flowers of it in the house late in the winter by lifting a bunch late in fall. 
Pack closely with earth in a box and leave out of doors till after frost, giving 
only a slight watering now and then. Bring into the house about holidays, 
place in a sunny window and the flowers will soon develop. They then need 
an abundance of water. 

Freesia Refracta Alba. — Among new bulbs none have so quickly won 
their way to popularity as quickly as this. Its perfume is delicious, not ob- 
jectionable as are tuberoses. The flowers are a tube-shaped, pure white, 
with a yellow blotch on the lower petal. Plant the bulbs in fall in sandy 
soil and keep in the light, water and give little more until growth begins. 
When done blooming, withhold the water, and when the bulbs are ripe, 
store away in a dry place until next Fall. 

Chinese Primrose. — For a neat, flowering plant for the window, there is 
nothing better than this. It is not suitable for outdoors, but in a greenhouse 
or even in a window it will with proper management bloom the year round. 
[Jsnally, however, the blooming period is in winter and early spring. It 
needs a moderately warm place, quite near the glass, and good drainage in 
the pots. If, as is generally the case, the plant grows top-heavy, it should 
have a few small sticks placed around to support it. It is raised from seed, 
and florists supply young plants quite reasonable. 

Flower Pots. — Take common red clay flower pots, scrub them until all 
spots are removed and they are of one color. Then get a package of silhoutles 
and paste them not too thickly over the pot. Then give a coat of varnish. 
They are quite ornamental, and when suspended by a I'ed cord they make a 
very nice hangincr basket. In handsomely or even moderately well furnished 
room the plain red pots seem shabby. 

Ivies. — A successful cultivator of ivies feeds them with iron and cod-liver 
oil ; the iron in form of rusty nails, mixed into the earth. Another produced a 
luxurious growth by wateiing once a week with tobacco- water; making a tea 
of refuse tobacco-leaves and stems, or of coarse tobacco. The water f.om the 
washing of fresh beef or fish is also of great benefit to ivies. Moisten the 
leaves with a sponge wet in tea, or simply wash with tepid wate-- ; as to have 
success with them they must be kept free from dust. Tea-leaves placed 
around ivies are good for them. 

To Keep Plants Without a Fire at Night. — Have made of wood or zinc a 
tray about four inches deep, with a handle on either end, water-tight — paint 
it outside and in, put in each corner a post as high as the tallest of your 
plants, and it is ready for use. Arrange your flower-pots in it, and fill be- 
tween them with sawdust ; this absorbs the moisture falling from the plants 
when you water them, and retains the warmth acquired during the day, 
keeping the temperature of the roots even. When you retire at night 
spread over the pots a blanket or shawl, and there is no danger of freezing. 
The tray may be placed on a stand or table and easily moved about. 



1208 THE FLOWEE GARDEN. 



Crab Cactus — This is one of the nicest plants for winter bloom. It is 
easily raised from the slip and requires but little watering or care. It blooms 
about Christmas, the flowers last for several weeks, and after they are gone 
the plant can be set away in the cellar, or cupboard and be watered rarely 
until spring, when, if placed in a somewliat shady place it will .need no fur- 
ther attention. It grows through the summer and the buds set on in the fall. 

Windoiu Gardening. — All the varieties of English ivy, the hoyacarnosa, 
the passion flower, the jasmine, the pilogyne suavis, and begonias are espe- 
cially sustable for winter culture. Very pretty eflects may be produced at 
the cost of a few cents, by planting verbenas, morning-glories, cobea scandens, 
and the maurandias in baskets or flower-pots, which may be concealed 
behind statuary or bronzes. The best fertilizer for them or any other house 
plants is that afforded by the tea-pot; the cold tea-grounds usunlly thrown 
away, if poured as a libation to these household fairies, will produce a mir- 
acle of beauty and perfume. 

To Prepare Antamri Leaves and Ferns. — Immediately after gathering, take 
a moderately warm iron, smear it well Mith white wax, rub over each sur- 
face of the leaf once, apply more wax for each leaf ; this process causes leaves 
to roll about as when hanging on the tree. If pressed more they become 
brittle and remain perfectly flat. Maple and oak are among the most desir- 
able, and may be gathered any time after the severe frosts; but the sumac 
and ivj' must be secured as soon after the first slight frost, as they become 
tinted, or the leaflets will fall from the stem. Ferns may be selected any 
time during the season. A large book must be used in gathering them, as 
they will be spoiled for pressing if carried in the hand. A weight should be 
placed upon them until they are perfectly dry ; then, excepting the most 
delicate ones, it will be well to press tliem like the leaves, as they are liable 
to curl when placed in a warm atmosphere ; these will form beautiful com- 
binations W'ith the sumac and ivy. 

Soot as a Fertilizer. — Tie some in a bag and dip up and down in two or 
three gallons water much in the way blueing is used in laundry. It is applied 
directly to the house-plants in the usual way with a watering pot, taking 
care not to get it on the leaves. 

Flower-pot Covers. — Where one wishes to use plants in decorating a din- 
ing table or any place, knit or crochet a cover of green yarn or zephyr to slip 
up over the crock and around base of plant with a cord' and tassel run in top 
of cover. A piece of round pasteboard, size of bottom of crock can be placed 
inside of cover before putting in the crock. These covers are very useful as 
they hide the crock and enable one to enjoy the flowers without spoiling the 
plant. It is nice to have two or three of them as they are inexpensive and 
very easily made. 

Fuschias. — When the leaves have fallen ofFfuschias it is better to allow 
the plants to complete their rest. Give just enough water to keep the soil 
from getting dusty, and let them remain dormant until after the first of Jan- 
uary. Then repot in fresh soil, water liberally ; when they commence growth, 
give them all the light and air the rooms afford. It must be remembered, 
however, that the fuschia is by no means a winter-flowering plant, though 
two varieties, Speciosa, and Mrs Marshall come into bloom very early in the 
year. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN, 



1209 








Wire Flower Stand. — There are few ladies who are willing to forgo the 
pleasure of having growing plants or flowers in living rooms, a y contrivance 
that makes the care of them less burdensome, 
that disposes of them in a more compact space, 
out of the way of the men folks, most of whom 
care more for comfort than flowers, is worthy 
of consideration. There are many designs in 
flower stands now made in wire, very strung 
and durable, and yet light, neat and convenient. 
All are set on strong castors, so as to be easily 
moved, and -the form represented here is so 
planned that all the plants may be easily turn- 
ed to the light on all sides. It also give's room 
for a large number of plants in a small space. 

Hints about Plants.— Few things are neces- 
sary for the successful cultivation of house 
plants. A^patieiit, untiring spirit is most im- 
portant. The other requisites are plenty of 
sunlight, fresh air and water when they need 
it. It is better to give a good supply of water 
when called for by drooping leaves, than to give a little at a time often. To 
repot, turn plants upside down on the left hand, rap pots sharply with stick ; 
this will loosen it from the ball of earth; lift it ofl", and place the plant in a 
pot two sizes larger, or in the ground. Do not leave the soil too rich with 
manure but well mixed, and composed of sod-soil, wild or leaf-mold, and 
well-rotted stable manure. Cut plants back pretty closely when you change 
them, and they will thrive better afterwards. Water well at first, then only 
moisten slightly until they begin to grow. A good rule for watering plants 
is once a week in winter if the weather is mild, or vvhen it has moderated, 
have a gallon watering-can filled with blood-warm water, stir in a tea-spoon- 
ful of aqua ammonia, and as you set the plants in a convenient place (kitchen 
floor will do), pour in pot a plentiful supply of this warm water, and after 
this, sprinkle well with warm water without ammonia. In summer two or 
three times a week is the rule. Ivies need large pots, and should be repotted 
every year in the summer time. 

Starting Slips. — A good way is to partly break off the slip, but not 
entirely sever it from the parent stock, leaving it hanging for ten or twelve 
days; then remove, and plant in a box of half sand or brick-dust and half 
leaf-mold, and it will be well rooted in a week. Do not water too freely, or 
the slip will rot. This is better for both slip and plant, as the slip will get 
nourishment from the plant while healing over, and its removal will not 
weaken the plant so much. Hyacinths are very attractive flowers for win- 
dow-gardening, and at the same time require very little care or trouble. Get 
the bulbs in the fall before frost, from any good florist, and keep in a cool 
place until December, then plant each one in a four inch pot with soil one- 
fourth sand, one-fourth well-rotted manure, one-fourth garden or sod-soil, 
and one-fourth broken bits of moss and leaf-mold ; water thoroughly at first, 
and set in a dark closet until the first of January, then bring to light and give 
plenty of water. A very good way is to set half a dozen or more pots in a 
large dripping-pan, pour hot (not boiling) water in pan, and let set for one 
hour. After they are done blooming, let them dry out gradually. They will 
not bloom the second season as well as the first' 

Keeping Cut-Flowers Fresh. — Cut-flowers soon droop and fade. Here are 
some of the ways in which they are preserved : Add to the water a few drops 
of camphor or ammonia, a little salt, a lump of charcoal, or immerse th« 



1210 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Btems in hot water when a bouquet is first made, and then as they commence 
to wilt repeating it, first cutting ofl" the ends. Have a skillet or pan on the 
stove with boiling water, in depth from half an inch to an inch, hold the stems 
in the boiling water for a few seconds, make into bouquets and place in water ; 
or if you wish to send to a distance, pack in a box, and send by mail, or any 
way you wish. When placed in the water a little salt or a rusty nail dropped 
in helps to keep them fresh. In making bouquets, be careful not to crowd too 
many flowei'S into one vase. They will last longer, to say nothing about their 
improved appearance, if they stand loosely. Never use cold water. Let it be 
lukewarm, and soft if possible. Sprinkling flowers in vases at night will help 
to keep them fresh, and, better still, lay them out on the grass where they 
will receive the dew, being careful to take them in early in the morning in 
summer, before the hot rays of the sun have wilted them. 

Florists in sending cut flowers any distance put them in air-tight boxes ; 
and in keeping corsage bouquets one can keep them much longer by above 
method. Flat bouquets, made in plates or glass platters, can be built up 
with a foundation of sand. Flowers will last much longer if their stems are 
thrust into wet sand than they will in water. The sand can be covered with 
moss, the flowers can be arranged in any fanciful shape that suits, and they 
will not be likely to become disarranged, for the sand holds them in place 
firmly. Instead of moss, leaves can be used to cover the surface and make 
a ground-work for the design, or bits of geranium branches, which often put 
out roots in the damp sand, and most of them grow right along as if nothing 
had happened to them. In making button-hole bouquets, or arranging 
flowers such as roses, camellias, etc., for the hair, cut the stems off at right 
angles and immediately apply hot wax to the end of the stock, then wrap in 
tin-foil, or to keep them, after applying the wax: place each one in a paper 
cone or cap so that the leaves do not touch the paper. The cap should be 
sealed up with glue to prevent air, dust or moisture from entering. When 
the glue is dry it should be placed in a cool place. When wanted, cut ofl' the 
wax end and place in water, where it will bloom for a few hours. 

Glass or tin forms for decorations for table are convenient and elegant. 
They may be filled with water or wet sand, and may be made in any fanciful 
form. The flowers are so placed that they conceal the form entirely. Small 
forms, made in form of letters, are often used to indicate the initials of the 
guest at whose plate they are placed, and the custom is a very pretty one. 

House Plants. — Plants that require a high or low temperature, or a very 
moist atmosphere, and plants that bloom only in summer are undesirable. 
Procure fresh sandy loam, with an equal mixture of well rotted turf, leaf 
mold and cow-yard manure, with a small quantity of soot. In repotting use 
one size larger than they were grown in ; hard burned or glazed pots prevent 
the circulation of air. Secure drainage by broken crockery and pebbles laid 
in the bottom of the pot. An abundance of light is importantj and when 
this can not be given, it is useless to attempt the culture of flowering plants. 
If possible they should have the morning sun, as one hour of sunshine then 
is worth two in the afternoon. Fresh air is also essential, but cold, chilling 
draughts should be avoided. Water from one to three times a week with 
soft luke-warm water, draining off all not absorbed by the earth. Do not 
permit water to stand in the saucers, as the only plants thriving under such 
treatment are called lillies, and even for these it is not necessary unless while 
blooming. Dust is a great obstacle to the growth of plants ; a good showering 
will generally remove it, but all the smooth-leaved plants, such as cam- 
ellias, ivies, etc., should be occasionally sponged to keep the foliage clean and 
healthy. Plants succeed best in an even temperature ranging ftom sixty to 
seventy degrees during the day, with from ten to twelve degrees lower at 
night. If troubled with insects, put them under a box or barrel and smoke 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1211 



from thirty to sixty minutes witli tobacco leaves. For the red spider, the 
best remedy is to lay the plants on the side and sprinkle well or shower. 
Repeat if necessary. The soil should be frequently stirred to prevent caking. 
If manures are used give in liquid form. Some of the most suitable plants 
for parlor culture are pelargoniums, geraniums, fuchsias, pahns, begonias, 
monthly roses, camellias, azaleas, oranges, lemons, Chinese and English 
primroses, abutilons, narcisus, heliotrope, stevias. bouvardias, petunias, and 
the gorgeous flowering plant poinsettia pnlcherrima. Camellias and azaleas 
require a cooler temberatui-e than most plants, and the poinsrttea a higher 
temperature. Do not sprinkle the foliage of the camellias while the flower- 
buds are swelling, as it will cause them to droop, nor sprinkle them in the 
sunshine. They should have a temperature of about forty degrees and more 
shade. By following these rules, healthy flowering plants will be the result. 
When plants are frosted, sprinkle with fresh cold water, and place under a 
box or something that will exclude the light and prevent too great a chance 
in temperature. Keep them thus for two days. After sprinkling, be careful 
to put them where they will not chill again. Horse-manure, two years old, 
is best for carnations. For begonias good drainage is indispensable. The 
whole family thrive in a compost of one-half loam and one-half leaf mold, 
with a slight portion of sand. From September to February give pelargon- 
iums only enough water to keep them from wilting; then water freely, and 
when they begin to bud, apply a little liquid-manure, or add ammonia to the 
water twice a week. Double geraniums should be kept in small pots, as they 
will not bloom well until the roots become compact. They require a higher 
temperature than the single varieties. During warm weather the foliage of 
fuchsias should be well sprinkled every evening to prevent its becoming 
seared too early. To obtain plants of the greatest beautv in form and color, 
plenty of light and space is essential. Do'not allow the foliage of one plant 
to overshadow another. 



1212 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 



DRESS MAKI1S"G- AT HOME. 



Tnere are many women who spend but a small sum yearly on dress, but 
only a few on that little contrive to dress neatly, and closely enough to the 
prevailing fashion to make a ladylike appearance. Some are so mistaken as 
not to care how they look. This is a serious mistake, for a well-dressed per- 
son not only commands respect and consideration from others, but, from the 
consciousness of being becomingly dressed, feels better, has better command 
of all her faculties, and makes a much better appearance in any circle. It is 
•worth while for a man even to take special note of his dress when he has any 
important business on hand, and a thousand times more so for woman whose 
success depends in a larger degree on an attractive exterior. In a man, genius 
may cause slovenly garments and habits to be overlooked, but no genius can 
make a slovenly or even carelessly attired woman attractive or successful. 
There is, among people of small means, too much neglect of personal appear- 
ance. The happiest people are those who make the best of adverse circum- 
stances, instead of magnifying trouble and brooding over small miseries until 
they become mountains of tribulation. Because one can not afford the 
richest fabrics is no reason for dressing shabbily, or even out of taste. Taste 
costs no money, only a little study, a little exercise of the brain. 

It is a great mistake to suppose that economy in dress means shabbiness ; 
the one is commendable, the other odious. It is unpleasant to see elegant 
dresses worn after they have reached a point beyond neatness, but it is posi- 
tively disgusting to see dresses which were poor in the beginning continued 
in service after they have become ragged and dirty. Ragged is a hard word 
to use in connection with ladies' apparel, but it is unfortunately true, that 
some of the dresses worn in home life are far more neat thaii whole. Worn 
sleeves, torn breadths, and a fringe of ragged braid upon the bottom ought to 
condem'n a dress. But when it reaches that state, some women think it is in 
just the condition to wear when there is no risk of its being seen by any other 
than the members of the family. Wise matrons, it is said, advise their sons 
to select rainy evenings for calling upon their young lady friends, so that they 
may find out who are fit to be seen wRen not expecting visits The visitors 
who find a charmer who is, on state occasions, beautifully clothed, wearing a 
ulouchy, dirty wrapper, with trimmings half worn off and pinned up in places, 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1213 

no collar or ruffle, but a tumbled lace handkerchief knotted around the throat, 
and liair still in the torture of crimping-pins, and slipshod boots, with miss- 
ing buttons, may be excused if they make a short call and never repeat it. 
Many a slatternly girl has lost a lover by allowing careless habits to fasten 
upon her. The time spent in keeping garments in perfect order, and thus 
preventing shabbiness, is well bestowed, for besides the comfortable self- 
respect conferred upon the wearer, the clothes reward the efforts by lasting 
twice as long. 

Gratifying good taste in dress does not necessarily involve a great expen- 
diture of money, for good effect depends less upon a costliness of materials 
than on the graceful and becoming designs into which they are wrought and 
the pleasing way in which colors are combined. 

Women should make a study of the art of dress; instead of extravagance 
it would promote economy. If each would study her individual style, she 
would make few mistakes in buying, and find less temptation in the passing 
novelties and fleeting fashions that constantly ensnare shoppers with whom 
dress is a matter of expenditure rather than a science. Mistakes in dress 
consume a great deal of money, and purchases made without careful study 
are seldom satisfactory, and are sooner thrown aside than an article of dress 
which gratifies the sense of fitness in both wearer and beholder. 

Fitness is the foundation of correct taste, and dress should always be in 
harmony with its surroundings and with tlie age and condition of the'wearer. 
A velvet dress with rich lace trimmings might be elegant and becoming upon 
a wealthy young lady at a reception, but a dress of the same kind would look 
strangely out of place at a country sewing society, worn by a young lady 
whose ordinary dresses were of calico. Its inconsistency at such a time and 
upon such a person, would be striking enough to hinder its exciting admir- 
ation. 

Poverty has no more galling sting than the fancied necessity for keeping 
up appearances ; in other words, for sailing under false colors, and present- 
ing an appearance which imitates that of richer acquaintances. It is pitiful 
to see v/omen, whose good sense in other matters is unquestionable, wearing 
out brain and muscle in the agonizing struggle to give themselves and their 
families a look of ease and style that comes naturally to their richer neigh- 
bors. It takes not a little courage to say, "I can not afford it;" but it is 
nobler and truer to say it than to hide behind subterfuges, or more cowardly 
still, to incur unwarrantable expense rather than confess to poverty. 

" Put the best foot foremost," but never do it at the cost of self-respect. 
One who is poor should not degenerate into carelessness and shiftless ways ; 
for if ever thrift and good management is needed, it is where money is scarce. 
There are some people who can make a dollar go twice as far as others, and 
this faculty, though natural to many, is as often an acquirement as a gift. It 
is the result of care, thoughtfulness, and an unceasing watchfulness, which 
is irksome enough until it is looked at in the right light and set down as a 
duty. Economy is not parsimony, although it has fallen into disrepute by 
being falsely so-called, That there is no disgrace in saving and no merit in 
wastefulness is a fact that should never be forgotten, and wise mothers who 
wish to fit their daughters for any sphere should carefully inculate that idea. 
In older countries economy is a most commendable virtue. It is only here, 
where large fortunes are won with such magical rapidity, that a few weak- 
minded people pretend to despise it. 

There is a bald economy which shows its pitiful bareness in every point 
of dress, and there is an economy which struggles to conceal its devices and 
, makeshifts by making everything appear to the best advantage. No one can 
.dispute the fact that of the two the latter is far the most graceful and praise- 
worthy. It costs more thought and effort to make garments stylish and pretty. 
but the well-dressed woman has her reward in increased self-respect. On« 



1214 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

Avoman will make over a hard worn dress into a dreary gored wrapper unre- 
lieved by trimming. Another will convert the same material into a jaunty 
skirt and basque, and from the apparently unusable portions decorate them 
in some tasteful way. Certainly the lady who wears the latter costume will 
be better pleased with herself, and grace the family table more satisfactorily 
to her friends than the other 

There are people who pretend to be too good to care for dress, and des- 
pise others for being fond of what they please to call frivolity. A close ana- 
lysis of the character of such people would often bring to light far graver 
faults and weaknesses than a love for dress, which, kept within proper bounds 
is not reprehensible, but rather commendable. 

It can hardly be repeated too often that quiet dressing should be the rule 
for those who are enable to procure a variety of clothes. The wearer of a 
showy dress is so soon recognized by it, and she, as well as her friends, grows 
sick of it long before its term of usefulness is over. A plain black or dark 
dress can be made stylishly and will be as dressy as a figured one, and will 
not be remembered from time to time, even if it is worn on every occasion 
for a long while. Bright ribbons and fresh ruffles and laces will change and 
beautif}' the plain quiet dress, and gives one a reputation for becoming and 
tasteful toilettes without its occurring to any one that the same old dress 
forms the basis of all the pretty changes. It is in making over an old dress 
that fancy material can be used to good advantage to freshen and piece out. 
but in buying and making a new dress, when the event is a rare one, it is in- 
finitely wiser to buy it of a solid color and make it in an inconspicious man- 
ner, not forgetting to get a sufficiently ample pattern to allow of a large 
piece to lay aside for future alterations and improvements. 

Even a very poor lady may dress with taste, and a working-girl may show 
more of it in her simple dress than an extravagant and wealthy lady will in 
hers. In fact the ability to buy finery of all sorts, and gratify a strong fancy 
for decoration often leads to bizarre eifects, which destroys the beauty of ex- 
pensive costumes. One need hardly be afraid of offending good taste by dress- 
ing too plainly, provided the plainess is the perfection of neatness. That, 
indeed, should belong to all styles of dress ; for nothing so entirely takes 
awayone'sreputationforbeingwell-dressed, as torn, soiled or shabby apparel 
or trimmings. Not only that, but other unfavorable deductions as to char- 
acter and habits are apt to be drawn of those whose habitual appearance is 
other than neat. 

People who are not rich can not aftbrd to be careless, because clothes that 
are not taken care of will not last as long as those which are kept in order. 
A small outlay of monej' and a liberal expenditure of time and patience will 
keep even a meager wardrobe in good order, and will forestall the outlay of 
consideraVjle sums. Eternal vigilance is the price of decency for poor folks. 
Garments often wear out faster when not being worn than when they are in 
use. Dresses crowed into a closet, and allowed to hang for days under the 
weight of a cloak or two or three other dresses, will not pass the ordeal with- 
out injury. Lingerie carelessly tossed into a drawer, where there is a con- 
fused assortment of other articles, will not come out in good order for wear- 
ing again ; and torn flounces, mended with pins, do not add to the durability 
of a dress any more than does putting it away with an accumulation of dust 
on the bottom. 

Handsome dresses that are not often worn should be folded v.ith extreuie 
care, with every ruffle and plaiting in place. This plan is supposed to pre- 
vent the sagging of the drapery that is sometimes given by constant hang- 
ing. Another way to prevent this is to hang it upside down occasionally by 
tapes pinned upon the bottom of the skirt; this revo^rses all the customary 
folds, and freshens the general appearance. Of course every bit of dust 
should have been previously wiped off, and for this purpose nothing is better 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1215 

than an old silk handkerchief. The dress should be pinned up in towels or 
pieces of old muslin, and laid away upon a shelf, or in a drawer, if an empty 
one sufficiently large is available. The importance of keeping dresses in 
sliape when they are off the peisson is so well understood in France that 
many ladies who do not haA^e maids of their own hire a professional exjjert 
to fold away their more elegant dresses. When, unfortunately, the closets 
of a house are not roomy enough to contain good dresses without folding too 
much, large pasteboard boxes may be ordered from any box maker or book 
bindery, which will soon save their cost by preventing injury to costly gar- 
ments. As a rule, put away every article of apparel as soon as it is taken 
off. Dresses must be shaken and brushed, and if they have been worn in 
the street, thoroughly cleaned upon the bottom, then they should be hung up 
by loops sewed on the back of each armhole, and if possible allowed the full 
possession of the nook or nail, as hanging under or against other garments 
is no advantage to a dress. 

Shawls should be carefully folded in the original creases and pinned up 
in a square of clean linen before laying away in a drawer. Cloaks must be 
brushed, and either laid in a long drawer or trunk and subjected to no press- 
ure from other garments, or hung up by a loop on the back of the neck ; or 
better still, cut a piece of wood something in the shape of a wooden yoke, 
such as is sometimes used across men's shoulders to suspend milk pails to, 
and fasten it up by a string tied in the middle and hang the cloak upon that. 
It will keep the slioulders in good shape. It is a good plan, in a large 
closet that is oftened opened, to have a calico curtain to protect that part 
of it devoted to cloth and woolen goods, as by contact with dust they 
soon grow gray and dingy. 

Throwing a dress carelessly upon a chair with other clothes taken off at 
night, because it is only a common one is a very bad habit, Ordinary di esses 
are worthy of care, and pay for it by presenting a better appearance to the 
end. They should be brushed, shaken, turned wrong side out, and hung up 
in a closet which has a door to shut out dust, and above all they should be 
kept in good repair. Every rip and rent should receive attention as soon as 
it occurs, or a condition of shabbiness will ensue that will be a great obstacle 
to making the dress over when the time comes. 

A clothes brush, a wisp broom, a bottle of ammonia, a sponge, a hand 
brush, a cake of erasive soap, and a vial of alcohol should form a part of the 
furnishings of every toilet. After all dust has been removed from clothing, 
spots may be taken out of black cloth with the hand brush, dipped in equal 
parts of ammonia, alcohol and water. This will brighten as well as cleanse. 
Benzine is useful in removing grease spots. Spots of grease may be removed 
from colored silks by putting on them raw starch made into a pa.ste with 
water. Dust is best removed from silk by a soft flannel, from velvet with a 
brush made specially for the purpose, or a piece of crape. Shawls and all 
articles that may be folded, should be folded when taken from the person in 
their original creases and laid away. Cloaks should be hung up in place, 
gloves pulled out lengthwise, wrapped in tissue paper and laid awaj^ laces 
smoothed out nicely and folded, if requisite, so that they will come out of 
the box new and fresh when needed again. A strip of old black broadcloth 
four or five inches wide, rolled up tightly and sewed to keep the roll in place 
is better than a sponge or a cloth in cleansing black and dark colored clothes. 
Whatever lint comes from it in rubbing is black and does not show. When 
black clothes are washed,, as they may often be_ previous to making over, 
fresh clean water should be used, ardthey should'be pressed on the wrong 
side before being quite dry. If washed in water previously used for white 
clothing they will be covered with lint. In securing clothing against moths, 
if linen is used for wrappings no moth will molest. Paper bags are equally 
tjood if they are perfectly tight, and so are trunks and boxes closed so tightly 



1216 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

that no crevice is left open for the entrance of the moth fly, As the moth 
loves darkness, it will not molest even furs hung up in light rooms open to 
air and sunshine. 

Bonnets and hats also merit tender care, and should not be allowed to lie 
about and gather d.ust; but, after being taken from the head, should be 
dusted, the bov/s and trimming straightened, and laid away in boxes. If the 
feathers seem limp and sliglitly uncurled, sometimes holding them over the 
hot air of an open register will restore them. Veils, neck-ribbons and cra- 
vats will also keep fresh much longer if carefully folded up and laid away 
under a weight sufficient to keep them in place. Soiled ribbons, in most 
colors, can be restored by washing in alcohol and water, and, instead of be- 
ing ironed, smoothed by being stretched tightly upon a board, held in place 
by pins, and wiped gently with a soft handkercliief once or twice in drying. 

Shoes even pay for good care. On taking them off do not leave the'm in 
the shape of the foot, but smooth them by stretching out the wrinkles and 
bending the soles straight. If buttons are lacking, sew them on immediately, 
and if other repairs are needed, have-them attended to at once. Never wear 
a shoe with a single button off, as it destroys the shape. On old shoes tlie 
fit is greatly improved by setting over the' buttons as far as comfortable for 
the foot. If the heels become worn down on one side, straighten them with- 
out delay, or the shoe will take a permanent twist. 

Gloves with many are greatly abused, which is a mistake, because to be 
well gloved contributes very much towards a lady-like appearance, and un- 
less one can afford a constant possession of new gloves it is desirable to keep 
the old ones in order. When taken oflT they should not be rolled together in 
a lump, as it is the custom with many, but pulled and stretched lengthwise, 
and laid away in a box, like new gloves without any folding. They should 
also be kept repaired, for if rips on the finger ends are neglected they soon 
get so large that in mending them it is impossible to restore the proper shape 
of the fingers. 

Kid Gloves should be turned and the tears mended upon the wrong side, 
they can be sewed more neatly than upon the other side. Use No. 70 cotton 
thread with a very fine needle ; some take No. 50 and splice it, thinking it 
better; either is preferable to silk. When gloves are of poor kid, or where 
there is a weak portion, which parts easily, it is well, instead of darning 
them, to work an elastic stitch, with silk of the same color. This is done by 
making a succession of button-hole stitches, catching one to the other till the 
rent is filled up. When soiled they can be cleaned at home as well as at a 
professional cleaner. Wash them in benzine, using quite a quantity, as it is 
cheap when bought by the quart or half gallon, being very careful to keep a 
good distance from the fire or any lamp, as benzine is very-inflammable and 
dangerous. The common benzine is best. Perhaps the best plan is to let 
them soak for ten minutes in the benzine, then squeeze out the gloves, wash 
them oiit in a fresh cupful until the dirt has made the liquid quite dark, 
then rinse in a clean cupful This last may be put away in a close bottle to 
use for soaking the next pair that is to be cleaned. Now pull them straight 
and rub with a sofl handkerchief until dry. Place over them thin, soft white 
paper and iron them hard with an iron not hot enough to draw them. This 
puts a polish on them and makes them look like new. If too large thej^ may 
be shrunk a little by using a hotter iron. Now place them in a towel and 
lay near the stove for two or three hours to remove all smell of benzine, and 
then place in the glove box with sachets of violet between them. 

It is an excellent plan, when one glove of a pair has unfortunately been 
lost, to preserve the odd one to mend with. It is not usual to patch gloves, 
but it often happens that a misfit can be remedied by inserting a V shaped 
piece in the palm ; for this and other contingencies a supply of odd gloves 
often proves valuable. 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1217 

One of the most important things is economy in the manner in which 
money is spent for work. Many an over tasked woman, feeling it impossible 
to accomplish all her sewing without assistance, will employ a dressmaker 
to make and make over dresses, and herself wrestle with the weary, never 
ending accumulation of plain family sewing and repairing which could be 
done by cheap help. This is not good management, for professional skill is 
always expensive to procure, and the price paid for making one dress would 
be enough to hire a large amount of plain sewing done. Cutting and fitting 
dresses is not difficult with good patterns at command, and there is no reason 
why any one should hesitate to undertake her own dressmaking. It is an 
art one soon acquires and becomes very expert in after a little practice. 
Let a woman feel herself capable of making a dress fairly well, and what a 
vista of possibilities opens before her. Old garments that are not worth 
spending a penny upon can be put to good use if the owner knows how to 
fashion them herself. It is commendable to work over old clothes, and make 
them look as new and stylish as taste and industry can contrive. Never be 
contented with a simply decent old dress; but, if you cannot afford a new 
one, take the time to make the old one tasteful and as near the fashion as 
can be. Perhaps some one will say you are foolish to spend time -and 
strength on old material, but judge for yourself if it is not judiciously spent 
when it brings as a result a costume which gives you that comfortable feel- 
ing of self-respect that a pretty and becoming dress does not fail to confer 
upon the wearer. Even the most showy fashions of the present time favor 
remodeling and making over dresses. Two or three materials still enter 
into the composition of street and house dresses, and the greatest liberty of 
taste is allowed in the shape of overskirts and the modes of trimming. 
Basques, round waists, jackets and polonaises, all are seen upon new dresses. 
No one style seems to reign in any dei^artment of dress cutting, which is a 
great blessing to those who make their new dresses out of old ones. An- 
other point which is of especial advantage to those who have real genius and 
skill in making over dresses is the fancy for individual novelties in costume. 
Ladies of fashion boast of having designed a dress which is i;nique and un- 
likely to meet its counterpart. Dressmakers rack their brains to invent 
styles which they can assure favorite patrons shall be repeated upon no 
other dress. 

If abandoned garments, for which there is no immediate use in anv form 
were always wholly, or partially taken apart and laid away carefully, in- 
stead of being tucked away at random, they would make a better appear- 
ance when thf^ir opportunity for usefulness occurs. 

In these days of mixtures and combinations there are few things which 
cannot be made serviceable as trimmings or to assist in composing some of 
the costumes expert economists make up out of odds and ends ; everything 
of the sort in a family should be saved with a view to usefulness in the future. 
There should be a receptacle in garret or store-room where large and small 
pieces may quietly bide their time out of every one's way. It is quite a 
treat to visit such a receptacle when the dressmaking time of each season 
draws near, and look over its resources. Many hidden and forgotten bun- 
dles will come to light, and he greeted as so much saving of money. Some 
old breadths may make a sham skirt to build a new dress upon, another 
fragment will perhaps make a facing or waist lining. A great deal of money 
is spent for such minor details of a dress, which might be saved and spent 
in a more showy manner, if strict attention were paid to treasuring up old 
possessions. Every thing of the kind should not only be saved but put 
away in good order. If an old dress is abandoned, do not hang it up in its 
worn out condition, but rip it all to pieces, clean the breadths, for if they are 
worth using at all, they are worth cleaning, and fold them neatly. Select 
all the best portions of other parts of the dress and serve in the same way. 



1218 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

It is very disheartening to find material in a dirty condition when the occa- 
sion comes to use it, and if it is needed in a hurry, the chances are that some- 
thing new will have to be bought to take its place. The best parts of old 
cotton underclothes may be dyed with family dye, and used for linings for 
dresses and children's clothes. For waist linings cotton cloth had better be 
left undyed. White linings are not in the least objectionable where corset 
covers are worn ; on the contrary, they are the choice of many dressmakers. 
In altering over old black silk dresses do not use a hot iron on them ; 
sponge the pieces with a s-^onge dipped in clear coffee, and then fold and lay 
away under a pressure as heavy as possible. The silk will come mit looking 
almost like new. 

An independent polonaise, for wearing with different skirts, is not an ar- 
ticle of dress much advised now by dressmakers, because a certain uniform- 
ity is considered desirable in dress, but economical people can not afibrd to 
give up the useful garment which creates such a pleasing variety in a 
slender wardrobe. A black cashmere polonaise, for instance, or even a gray 
'flannel 'one, can be worn over several skirts, and thus supply street ancl 
house cost«mes at little cost. 

Black is handsjme, lady-like and irreproachable ; and she who is not the 
fortunate possessor of one good black dress is really worthy of pity. The 
black dresses of to-day are frequently gay with colored trimmings, and the 
Persian cashmeres and brocades that in decoration really light them up won- 
derfully well ; 1)ut if the purse allows but one nice dress, that one should, by 
aU^means, be all black, and depend for illumination upon the little acces- 
r'"* -iS of ribbons, fichus, etc., which will make it more or less dressy as re- 
'q ... J hi. Every woman who cares for appearances — and every one should do 
thtit-^ought, if she can possibly afford it, to own a good black silk dress. 
Alpaca is good ; cashmere is better ; other black materials are very satisfac- 
tory ; but nothing gives one such a comfortable feeling of self-respect as 
black silk. Silk is still very cheap, and fancy makes particularly so. It wou'id 
cost a good deal to get a really rich plain black silk, for such a dress re- 
quires to be richer than one with a stripe, dot, or figure, and will also need 
richer trimmings. Better no silk than a poor, flimsj', plain one, which soon 
turns shabby and betrays the purchaser's trust. One will find black silk to 
be the most economical dress for the best dress, and with it one does not 
need any other, lighting it up as above directed, when wearing in evening, 
or on dress occasions. Besides this, a pretty cashmere or novelty suit for 
street wear and a dress or two for home wear gives a sufficient wardrobe. As 
they wear, take the silk for second best, supplying a new one, and in this 
way one may always have all that is necessary and yet not have so many 
dresses to become out of fashion. The one-suit idea is fast gaining ground 
and wisely so, as one can thus be better clothed, and in later style and at 
less expense than v>here a dozen differei-it best dresses are hung in the closet, 
worn only now and then, thus making it too expensive to have anew suit 
very often. Patience and practice work miracles in dressmaking, and the 
amateur will, in cultivating both, learn to study her own figure and bring 
out its good points in a way that no professor of the art will be likely to do. 

INTELLIGENT SHOPPING. 

There are a few things that every shopper ought to know. She should, 
for one thing, know exactly how much money it is proper or expedient to 
s])end for a certain article. Of course she is not obliged to expend the entire 
sum, if she has the good fortune to find what she wants at a lower price, but 
the limit being fixed, she should have resolution enough not to be tempted 
to exceed it. In all probability the sum has been determined with refer- 
ence to other needs, and if one purchase is allowed to overstep the margin, 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1219 



there wil. be inconvenient curtailing in other directions. With the stern 
fact of a slender purse to be kept in mind, it is weak in the shopper to spend 
her own time and the salesman's, looking at expensive goods which are be- 
yond her i-each. The sight of such fabrics, contrasting with the more lu m- 
sIImZZu ''''^^^'^^ "" ^'^' '^'''''^' ^i" he apt to produce dis- 

nnPn%ll!!.i"'^T*'^"f 'f '^ "^ m?' ^^^ the economical shopper to be aware of the 
quantity of material she will need. Rapid calculations made at the time of 
purchasing are very unreliable, and an appeal to the salesman will do little 
good, because the desire to make a sale Vill often prompt that person to 

3'^ffp?«M''''''^ ''r?^^^ '*^ ,*^'^'" ^' ^\^^^^'^^- O*^ tiie papei- patterns sold b? 
dealers the quantity of goods required is usually set down, but an economi- 
cal cutter can often make the garment from a smaller number of yards than 
r^nL^^lT'. ^^1^7^ quantity is mentioned, to allow for inexperience and 
more or less wastefulness upon the cutter's part. It would be wise, after se- 
lecting a pattern, to measure it, and decide by turning the pieces about till 
every advantage gained by dovetailing them in and out may be taken note 
of. There are many ladies who manage to reduce the amount of cloth usuall v 
required for a dress, so greatly, that the saving thus made is quite a consid- 
fowo^'^Vv, ®^Pf nsive goods the saving of a yard or two will go a long way 
toward the purchase of another dress. s ^^-^^ 

Very excellent managers have been known to cut all the required ports 
of a polonaise, jacket, or whatever form the pattern is in, from paper a 
c^ses where the pattern does not give duplicate sections,) to better 
them to make the closest calculation as to the amount required. Such pains- 
taking is sometiuies laughed at and termed fussiness, but, depend upon it 
any method which enables a woman in narrow circumstances to save a dol- 
lar, even, should be above derision. To show that the sum thus saved nviv 
be of some magnitude, the case of two ladies in New York may be named 
who bought silk dresses from the same piece. The silk was four dollars a 
yard, and the dresses were to be made in the same style. One ladv referred 
to her dressmaker for the amount of yards necessary, and the other made her 
own calculation in the manner just spoken of, and bought two yards less 
Her dress appeared after being made, to be as ample as her friend's and she 
had the reward of her deliberate forethought in the saving of eight dollars 
Probably the other dress was honestly made, for the quantity supplied was 
far from exorbitant, but less careful cutting made the difference. 

How much, or rather, how little, material will it be safe to purchase for 
making mto a silk dress, is a question often asked by ladies who are oblio-ed 
to count the cost of every thing very narrowly. It is a question that could 
be answered pore accurately regarding a single ir dividual that in the ab- 
stract, but It IS safe to say, that with careful cutting, a polonaise and simplv 
trimmed skirt can be made from thirteen or fourteen vard. of silk accordin"- 
to the height of the lady. The upper part of the skirt can be of black lawn" 
or, mstead of continuing the silk to the bottom of the skirt, it may be piececl 
down with lining, begining where the ruffle is put on, Even if more materi-il 
IS purchased, it is more prudent to piece out the skirt with other goods and 
save some of the silk to use when the time for making over comes. ' 

For ladies who live out of town, the present facilities for selecting from 
samples sent by mail simplify shopping greatly. Almost all merchants in 
large cities are very obliging about sending samples, and, even if the ex- 
press charges on the goods ordered adds something to the cost it is a trifle 
compared to the expense of visiting the city. With the samples before one 
at home, one can make a cooler choice and use better judoment than when 
in a store, and country buyers have on this score, a great advantao-e over 
town shoppers. "^ 



1220 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

Among the many points to be considered in the selection of a winter 
dress, is its possibih"ty for turning upside down and wrongside out, wh^n its 
future destiny may demand such transformation. It is also desirable to 
have goods that can be dyed, and, on that ac.count, mixtures of silk and 
wool should be avoided. There are also other objections to this class of goods. 
They are. liable to change color when exposed to dampness, and will some- 
times shrink and "cookie up" in a way that makes them unsightly, and often 
useless. All-wool material, such as serge, cashmere, flannels and debeges, 
and all the goods of similar nature sold under various names, are far more 
satisfactory, and are often cheaper, even at the first cost than the fancy mix- 
tures. 

For those ladies who are obliged to follow some out-of-door avocation, 
such as carrying a subscription book, selling some article from house to 
house, or any pursuit which requires them to brave all weathers, the 
most serviceable winter dress will be one of camlet, linsey or frieze-cloth. 
Either of these will be satisfactory, if a grade is selected which is woven 
of pure worsted, with no mixture of cotton or any other fabric. If tlie ma- 
terial is bought at a reliable place, the dealer will be willing to point out the 
difference between the mixed and unmixed worsted material, but (the for- 
mer not always being easy to find) irresponsible persons will sometimes at- 
tempt to }>alm off the latter upon the inexperienced. A jacket or sacque like 
the dress can be wadded and lined, and, if neatly made after a Btylish pat- 
tern, wil-1 complete a walking costume that any lady might be- willing to 
wear. Such a suit in dark gray, or "pepper and salt," made with emigrant 
skirt bordered with three or five rows of black braid, and easy fitting coat of 
the same, similarly trimmed, will be more stylish, and command more re- 
spect for the wearer than a half-worn silk or cashmere whose trimmings 
show stains of travel and dust, whose draperies have the dejected look com- 
mon to long worn ornamentation. It is not to be supposed that the econom- 
ist must never take advantage of a special bargain ; but slie must be wary, 
lest she is dazzled by cheapness and tempted into buying something that 
she could have gone without, and saved the money for a better use. 

The habit of making a list, every season, of the things obsolutely needed, 
with their probable cost, will assist an economical shopper very' much in 
making her purchases, and dispose her to shun showy so-called bargains, 
unless she sees one that will supply some item set down in her list, ,or can 
be profitably substituted for something therein. Even tlien she should use 
very deliberate judgment, and carefully refrain from buying in haste to re- 
gret at leisure. 

Merchants in cities are, at certain times, in the habit of offering, as bai'- 
o'ains the fragments of the last season's stock to clear them out before new 
o-oods' are exhibited. These bargains are sold (very often) for anything that 
tiiey will bring. Experienced economists find their golden opportunity, and 
rarely fail to take advantage of its coming. Remnants of summer goods are 
to be found often at a quarter of the price asked for them on their first ap- 
pearance, and, with a little taste and a clever knack at securing an imitation 
of some of the many fashions of the day, it is an easy thing to effect an in- 
^enious arrangement of a few yards of new goods upon an old dress that will 
delude the public into the belief that the whole costume is as new as it is 
eleo'ant. The point having been thoroughly settled, that close following of 
pas'sing* styles is incompatible with systematic economy, the woman of small 
mcans^v^iri not hesitate to make her dollar do double duty by spending it for 
some of these kept-over goods without troubling herself with anxious doubts 
and fears lest they should not be in the latest of the ruling modes. Her 
choice among them, if her taste and judgment are good, will be those that 
are quiet an(rinconspicuous in color and pattern. Such dresses be the fash- 
ion what it may, are always ladylike and in good style. There are some 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1221 



standard goods that are never obsolete ; but because each season brings its 
own trivial variation mtlie shade of color, and thickness of a twill, or some 
such unimportant feature, the infinitesimal change depreciates, in the eves 
ot large dealers, the materials of last year. Narrow stripes, fine checks and 
small dots, are all unremarkable, and, not coming within the range of arbi- 
trary fashions, are never out of date, and no one need ever be ashamed of 
wearing them Prints, calicoes, ginghams, and all the great varieties of the 
previous year s supply of cotton goods, are generally to be found amon- the 
bargains shown at such times ; and there is no better opportunity for layino- 
in a stock for children's summer dresses, or for their mothers and older sis^ 
ters. Always make up cotton dresses without lining. They can be washed 
and ironed easily, and look almost as well as new after each time of laun- 
drying. With a waist lining there is apt to be a shrinkage and drawing out 
of place in either tlie lining or the outside that hinders the iron from doino- 
Its work nicely. For those who have to do actual hard work, such as waslf- 
mg, scrubbing etc., it may be well, now that the material is so much thin- 
ner than of old to make dark calico working dresses with waist linings of 
unbleached muslmtahelp to resist the strain produced by constant motion 
of the arms ; but for ordinary housework a loosely-fitting unlined waist with 
simply a st^y or facing under the arms, is quite strong enough. It would 
also be sufficiently so for the hardest work if people were iii the habit of 
making tlie calicoes worn for such use, simply with a skirt and half-fittino- 
saqne Many ladies make the calico skirts of working dresses of straicrhl 
breadths and no gores in order that, when partially worn out, the front may 
be tiirned around to the back, thus bringing stronger breadths into the place 
of those which are thin and faded. The gathers are ripped from the w^aist- 
band and the skirt turned upside down. After a new lease of life has in 
this way been secured to the skirt, there should be some way of renovatin- 
lnLy^rfP*''"^Tr: perhaps new sleeves, and, possibly, a renewal of the 
lower portions of the front if the waist is in saque form 

_ The most economical and convenient time for making common dresses 
is at a season when more elaborate dresses are not in preparation. For cali- 
coes and ginghams it will be safe to select any of the simpler styles of walk- 
ing dresses. Plain percale and small checked ginghams combine well and 
make very pretty combinations may be made with calicoes and prints A 
very practical little English work on economy recommends keeping a little 
table^^of the widths of different materials and the respective quantities re- 
quired for the ordinary garments used in the family for convenience in shop- 

CUTTING. 

In cutting goods, economy of material is a consideration never to be lost 
sight of. Make a close calculation before using the scissors at all, and do not 
cut any part out until you have discovered the very best way of usino- the 
cloth to advantage. It will pay one to be very deliberate and take no^tep 
without due consideration. Of course, professional hands become so entirelv 
tamihar with their occupation that it does not demand much thought but 
beginners will do well to ponder and plan and calculate closelvthe very 'best 
and most economical way in getting a garment out of a given quantity of cloth 
Large patterns are desirable for dresses and some other things but for most 
garments just enough is the best quantity to have. The extra half yard or 
whatever portion is found to be in excess of the right length, is often useless 
and with cloth, or other costly material, adds provokingly to the expense of 
a cloak, sacque, or whatever the garment may be. 

People who economize very rigidly sometimes argue that buvinc paper 
patterns adds too much to the cost of garments to be prudent purchases • but 



1222 DRESS MAKING AT HOMB. 

that seems like faulty reasoning in most cases, for the time, strength and labor 
spent in experimenting, to say nothing of the eventual possible wasting of 
material, would more than cover the cost of the model. It is an excellent 
idea for two or three friends to unite and purchase paper patterns t' gether, 
dividing the expense between them, and selecting medium sizes, which would 
be readily adapted to their different degrees of slenderness or breadth. 

If the dress is being made by a person of no experience, it will be well 
to cut the pattern out of old material, baste it together and try it on ; this not 
so much to correct possible defects in the pattern as to guard against the mis- 
takes of inexperience, though even these need not be made if accurate care 
is used in following the patterns. 

In regard to cutting-out to the best advantage, imagine that the reader of 
this, having, fortunately for herself, finished making herown clothes, is about 
to make a polonaise for her small daughter or sister. Let her select the pat- 
tern she wishes, and if it is a new one, cut a, facsimile of it in old cloth, baste 
together and try on, making any slight alteration in waist or shoulder seams 
that may be needed. Then let her ascertain the width of the material decided 
on, and calculate as nearly as possible the quantity needed — say it is three 
yards and a half of twenty-seven inch goods. With a piece of chalk let her 
mark ofi" upon the carpet a section of that length and width, and lay the dif- 
ferent parts of the^^aitern within its limits, turning and replacing them again 
and again till they are assuredly arranged to the best possible advantage, and 
the whole garment made to absorb the smallest amount of cloth that is prac- 
ticable. Of course the idea must be kept in view of a right and wrong side 
to the cloth, or an up-and-down to the figure, if there is one, but a little study 
and thought, after the pieces are placed, will correct any mistake of that kind. 
Then it is well, before taking up the pattern and brushing the chalk-line from 
the carpet, to make a rough sketch or outline of the position it occupied upon 
the floor, and not trust altogether to memory to re-arrange it upon cloth. 
All this performance seems rather formidable, but if a beginner will take the 
trouble to go through with it for a few times, she will find it like learning a 
trade, and a little experience will make her so thoroughly mistress of it that 
she will no longer need to be subject to such preliminaries, but will, almost 
li:fy intuition, lay the pieces of the pattern to the best advantage, and acquire 
the very desirable accomplishment of cutting well and economically. To pos- 
sess such an art one should be willing to take a little trouble and make some 
exertion. 

In cutting a dress leave the sleeves and trimming till the last, then parings 
of gores and other pieces can be used up. Don't be afrafd of piecing. The 
sleeves should be whole, if possible, upon the upper parts, but the under parts 
may be made of patchwork, if necessary, especially where the upper part is 
wide. Even where both parts are of equal width care, ingenuity, and a little 
practice, make it possible to use up very small pieces when material is scant. 
The waist also may be pieced more than an ordinary dressmaker, whose time 
is money, can aflford ; but if you make your own dresses you can sometimes 
get one out of a surprisingly scant pattern, if you are patient and ingenious 
about piecing. The fronts may be faced instead of hemmed, and narrow pieces 
may be put under the arms without being noticed. If necessary, in a basque 
or polonaise, all the parts may be joined at the waist. In making over a dress 
quite short pieces may be used to advantage in this way. It is also possible, 
when sorely driven by necessity, to piece the fronts from the armeize across, 
and craftily cover the seam by arranging the trimming to repi-esent a square 
neck. Not more than an inch, if any, of the seam need be visible between 
the trimming and the armsize, and that will hardly be observed. 

In cutting a basque or waist from an untried pattern, cut the lining first 
baste it up and try it on ; then, if any trifling alterations are necessarv, they 
can be made, and the goods cut according to th© improvements, dut it an 



6RKig MAKINa AT HOMI. 1225 



long as the basque is to be, but if it is for a polonaise or redingote, it need be 
only five or six inches below the waistline. Soft twilled muslin makes the 
i^n.TJT' ffty^^^h is stiff and unpliable is very objectionable, as it is 
not only hard to fit, but soon stretches out of shape and leaves the dress 
goods over it without proper support. Dark linings, even for dark dresses 
«nfl?Zl'''r."''H^^"i^^^*- ^^^^te is much used by dressmakers butit 
TverXht ij^iv Fofp.^r' "."^^J^^t^^^'-^ble. The best color is a p^arl, or 
i yery iignt gi ay. For calico dresses, even for winter, the waist linin>r should 
?'wffli^ ''■^*'' n^"" '^^'1?^""- tl^^^olor of a dark lining will nn"nto and 
hP nnt fi °^''^Vf'^'^^^''^°/ Both lining and outside o1 the waist shouM 

creased on tlf;H"i-^^'^^^ '""^ '^' ''^"'^ ^^^ darts must be 

iinonU TnftiT"-^ """"^'^S*^^ must be pinned evenlv 

upon It. Lay the lining upon the length of the goods, being very particular 
l^^^^^^'^'^P^^'^^^^y^l^'^^Shi^^^d arrange the different pierces in rm4nei 
to save as much cloth as possible. If saving is a great object facinc^s caS be 
sewed on the edges of both fronts, and So heL turned By Smin^^^^^^^ 
the pieces about It will be easy, where there is no up and down ?o ge"t the 
side pieces out between some of the larger parts. In basting the Wes tS 
gether, a ter they are secured to the^lining, be verv partTcuar to match 
them as the paper pattern indicates, following the creaLs exactV To se- 
sure greater precision, it is best to mark the creases ^vXaleld pencil 
?>,! fl?"f u°^ \^ *°° particular about these darts, as thev have much to do wSh 
he fit of the dress Having basted the side-bodies evenly to the back Tack 
i^v/«T*'^"^^^'^ ^^S?*^",'" "P°" the shoulders and under the S the 
darts having been previously basted up by the marks on the pattern Trv 

^^ork the buttonhole. Before cutting these (if the goods ravel verv easilv) 
ou line each one by a row of machine stitching, leaving only room to cut the 
button-hole between the lines of stitching, "and, in wor^W take the 
hand ''n itl'eTn?^'?T'' the line the same as when it is ?un 'around by 
iiancl. if It does not fit, the amateur dressmaker need not fall into desnair 
for probably a judicious taking in of the seams will make it all ght If the 

studvth.Un IntZllV'^'^r'^'^'V;''''' ^^ ^^"^^ '' ^'^^1 1^- necessarv to 
stucly that m fatting; if, for instance, the waist is very taperin*^ the seani!:! 

back,^a^plait or dart laid in the middle K^^'ack^oftl^ri^lL^^^iirsl^cTr;^^^ 

Long seams in the back extending to the shoulder, are more becomin<^ 
to stout people than side bodies ending at the armsize. If the shou derf 
project an a lowance can be made by leaving the back longer tlmn he sidel 
1 one^shoulder IS more prominent that the other, the defect should be skU- 
fuUydisgmsed by putting a layer of cotton upon the other side, so that tie 
difi-erence need not be noticed. If the arms are very thin, a sheet of cotton 
may be put between the outside and the lining of Ve upper St M^^^^ 
dressmakers follow ths plan, whenever the arm is not too krge^to adinit o^ 
It, to secure awe 1-f^ttmg sleeve,, the short shoulders now "vS-Xdi esses 
requiring some adroitness in putting them in nicely, unless the materiafis 
thick like velvet, or is made so by wadding. maieriai is 

The next step in making the dress is to finish the sleeves Thev should 
be slipped on the arm while tiie waist is on. and pin led to'the sWders 
Very much depends upon the fit of the sleeves, and, even if cut fromThe 
best of patterns, they may wrinkle and set awry unless put in o Hip nimhnl! 
properly. The latter must not be too tight or c^t out tof mucrin'he bict 

After a basque or polonaise is finished, it should havp a ^trnno- K<.if 
.•w«d to the back and side seams, upon the insideX fasten the f?on\^t 



1224 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

the double purpose of keeping the waist in place and relieving the strain 
upon the buttons. 

Putting a garment together when it is carefully cut is a much easier task 
than when the separate pieces are not accurate, and require much measur- 
ing and trimming before they can be nicely adjusted to each other. If lining 
is put into either a part or the whole of an article it must be tacked upc«i 
the back of the pieces before they are basted together. Care must be taken 
in basting not to stretch the seams out of shape. In making up cloth, tiie 
seams, after being stitched upon a sewing machine, should be laid upon and 
pressed down with a heavy hot iron. Each raw edge may then be bound 
with a narrow ribbon or galloon. This will give a neat finish to the wrong 
side and keep the threads from raveling. In very thick cloth the seams, af- 
ter pressing, should have a galloon laid over them, and hemmed down 
slightly, not letting the stitches show upon the right side ; or, with a cloth 
with a'shaggy face, the seam may be sewed up and finished at the back with 
a wide fell, which must be pressed flat. Thin materials, such as mohairs, 
grenadines, etc., if made up without lining, are most neatly finished if the 
pieces are stitched together on the right side and then turned and sewed 
again upon the wrong side. This keeps, the -garment in better shape than 
the usual running and felling. 

The next thing on the programme after putting on whalebone casings, 
is to face the bottom of the basque. It is then ready for the trimmimg, 
which can be put on in accordance with the taste of the designer. Many 
ladies wear adjustable waist trimmings. -A bias band of the material, for 
instance, with both edges trimmed with gimp or tiny side-plaitings, which 
goes around the neck and meets or crosses in front, half-way between the 
throat and belt. This is left off at pleasure, to make room for a dainty fichu 
of mull or colored silk, or for a becoming little shoulder cape of beads. 
These very expensive-looking little adjuncts to a dressy toilet can be 
made at home by ladies who have any leisure to spend in fancy work. 
Almost every young person has some middle-aged friend who will teach her 
how to make the bead fringes which, in former days, decorated the square 
ends of crotcheted silk purses. Those fringes were made of fine steel beads, 
and the netted beading done with an ordinary sewing needle. The beads 
now used are cut-jets of a much larger size, and three rows of the fringe are 
set upon a lace foundation, or even sewed together over a paper pattern, 
without other froundation than a row of gimp between each fringe, which 
is concealed by the falling strands of beads. Trimmings for the tabliers Ox 
rich dresses are made in a similar manner by some ladies, who also imitate 
with their own ingenious fingers the gorgeous seventy-five and fifty-dollar 
fabrics which are sold in modest quantities for trimming. 

In cutting a dress from plaid goods if the check is at all conspicuous, it 
must be arranged with care, or very ugly effects will be produced, on the 
waist, particularly, the plaids should match exactly where the fronts meet 
In cutting out goods that are striped, have a whole stripe appear in the center 
of the front, and have the side-forms in the back present a perfectly matched 
appearance. The same attention should be paid to the sleeves, having a care 
as in all materials, that the parts above the elbows run with the thread length- 
ways of the cloth. If the sleeve pattern is too short, lengthen it equally at 
both ends ; unless this is observed, the set of it will be changed. 

A round skirt is easily made with an old, well-fitting skirt, on a paper pat- 
tern as a guide. The straight side of each gore must be towards the front. 
The seam in the front is not to be endured, and one in the back is to be avoided, 
if possible, upon any skirt which is not to be worn beneath a polonaise or 
overskirt ; but for aii overskirt all things are possible in the way of piecings 
and joinings. In making a trained or demi-trained skirt, if it should appear 
scanty and hoop in the back, make a cut in the edge deep enough to relieve 



J DRESS MAKING AT HOME?^ '^225 



it, and set in a V-shaped gore, which may be concealed by tne trimming, or 
cut shorter slits upon each side and set in gores. 

Machine stitching is used upon dresses and trimmings. Even casnmere 
and silk ruffles are hemmed on the machine instead of being laboriously blind- 
stitched, although the latter mode is is not out of date with those who do not 
mind trouble. It is now acknowledged by the best dressmakers that nothing 
equals coarse alpaca or brilliantine for a skirt facing. Nearly every color can 
be matched in it, and it looks well, wears well and sheds the dirt admirably. 
Braid is now usually not felled down as formerly. About a third of its width 
is allowed to project befow the skirt, which is' thought to hang better than 
when bound with the braid. It should be sewed on by hand ajler the dress 
is finished, not set in between the facing and outside, as is sometimes done. 
When it becomes ragged it is a simple matter to rip it off and put on a fresh 
one. Or, a new and very pretty way is to top-pleat the braid in small pleats 
and sew it just inside bottom of skirt, thus forming a little trimming as well 
as a protection and doing away with any other "loot pleating." It takes 
three bolts of braid for an ordinary walking dress. 

RENOVATING. 

If the silk is very dirty, spread each breadth on a large table, and sponge 
it upon both sides with warm water mixed with ox gall. — Rinse the silk 
several times in clear cold water, changing the water each time. Then 
sponge it upon the wrong side with a very weak solution of glue. Try the 
experiment first on a scrap of the goods till you find it as stiff" as new silk 
should be. Dry the silk, and then roll it up in a damp towel and after two 
or three hours, iron it upon the wrong side with a moderately hot iron. 
Black, and some dark shades of cashmere, may be cleaned by the same 
process. 

Where a black silk has a shiny, greasy look, its freshness can fre- 
quently be restored by sponging it with ammonia without rii^ping up the 
dress. Where a silk of any color becomes more defaced with spots than 
actually soiled, the spots can be removed by rubbing them with a mixture 
made by putting half an ounce of camphor and an ounce of borax in boiling 
water, and adding to it when cool a teacup of alcohol and half that quantity 
of ammonia. 

A favorite way of cleaning and restoring silk, is by sponging it with a 
preparation made by boiling a large, unpeeled potato and a kid glove to- 
gether for a long time. The glove should be of the color of the silk, and if 
the shade is very light, the potato must have the skin removed before boil- 
ing. After the mixture is cool add a small quantity of ammonia if the silk 
is very dirty. No glue or gum will be needed, as the glove furnishes the 
proper degree of stiffening. After sponging, and wiping with a dry cloth, 
fold the silk in as nearly as possible the form of new silk, or roll it upon a 
rod covered with thick cloth. Avoid ironing it if possible, as the texture of 
the silk is better preserved without the application of heat ; but if the 
wrinkles do not disappear, press it on the wrong side with as cool an iron 
as can be efficiently used. The glove and potato treatment is excellent for 
restoring black of all kinds, even veils and shawls. 

Another way of cleaning black silk is first to thoroughly brush and wipe 
with a cloth, then lay flat on a board or table and sponge well with hot coff'ee 
thoroughly freed from sediment by being strained through muslin. Sponge 
on the side intended to show, allow to become partially dry and then iron on 
the wrong side. The coffee removes every particle of grease and restores 
the brilliancy of silk without imparting to it either the shiny appearance or 
crackly and papery stiff"ness obtained by beer, or indeed, any other liquid. 



1226 DRESS MAKING AT HOMB. 

The silk really appears thickened by the process, and this good effect is per- 
manent. 

The following method of cZectmngr «i7fcs has many advocates, and is said 
to be admirably adapted for delicate evening shades : To quarter of a pound 
of soft soap put a teaspoonful of sugar and a large coffeecupful of alcohol. 
Wet the silk all over with the mixture, then rinse it in several waters, being 
careful not to crease it. Let it dry partially, and iron it upon the wrong 
side, unless it is smooth enough after rubbing with a soft towel. There is a 
great difierence in silks in this respect. Some that are very soft and of rich 
quality will be smooth and unwrinkled after cleaning, if simply smoothed 
with the hands and carefully folded ; others need thorough pressing with an 
iron to put them in good shape. Heat takes the stiffening from silk, and, if 
it is found necessary to iron it, it is well to dry it and then dampen with 
water in which a little gum or glue has been dissolved. The wisest way, as 
suggested above, is, in any of the methods given to try the whole process 
upon a small piece of the silk to be cleaned. Observation will then indicate 
if any change is needed in the operation All these receipts have been tried 
wath very good results ; but to get a good result in cleaning silk takes time, 
patience and backache. 

If silk, after having been done over, or reflnished, as it is called, looks 
well enough to make up again as a dress, it is very important that new lining 
should beused. Save the old ones to line every-day dresses, but be sure to 
buy new waist and sleeve linings for the silk, or it will fall into the creases 
and folds that wearing has produced in the muslin, and have an old expres- 
sion in spite of all the trouble that it has cost. If the silk is to be cut up for 
trimmings it will pay to line them. Bias frills and side-plaited ruffles can 
be lined with coarse'^Swiss and folds and bias bands interlined with old thin 
muslin which has been nicely starched and ironed. Attention to these small 
details will do much toward giving a new look the material. 

Grease spots in any goods should be taken off as soon as they appear, as 
they yield to treatment much more readily before dirt finds a lodgment in 
them. Benzine is one of the best agencies in use for removing grease from 
woolen di-esses. Some people consider it best to wet the spot first with cold 
water, and apply the benzine within the circumference of the water-mark, 
asserting that even upon colored silk fabrics no trace of the benzine will be 
left after exposure to the air. Taking out spots which have destroyed or 
impaired the original color is a difficult matter and one that will need ex- 
perimenting upon in each case. Sometimes a mixture of camphor and borax 
is efficacious, and in others strong beer is a beneficial application. If acids 
have caused the trouble, a weak solution of ammonia will often have a good 
effect. Sometimes an application of liquid blacking upon the faded or dis- 
colored spot mends the matter, but that succeeds best on material that has 
a nap or rough surface. A solution made by boiling logwood chips in a little 
water is said to be very good for restoring the color of black cashmere and 
other smooth woolen goods. It should be applied to the the spot with a 
sponge, and the operation should be repeated several times drying the goods 
after each application, and finally pressing it with a warm iron. 

Men have been heard to say that women never brush their dresses. 
However iintrue that sweeping assertion may be, it is certain that too little 
attention is paid to freeing dresses from the dust of the house and soil of the 
street. It is an excellent plan, upon taking off a dress, to brush it carefully 
all over with a small (not too stiff) wisp broom, giving particular care to all 
trimmings where plaits or gathers make lodgments for the dust. If there is 
much upon the dress, rub it off with a coarse towel or a wad of worsted goods. 
An excellent brush for cleaning woolen or silk dresses can be made by Cover- 
ing a square block of wood with furniture plush. For all silk dresses a piece 
of flannel removes dust nicely. Ladies who are in mourning suffer much in- 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1227 



convenience from the injury caused by drops of water falling upon their crape 
tor each drop makes a conspicuous white mark. If, while wet. these are clap- 
ped between the hands until dry, no spots will appear. If the crape has 
dried without their removal, lay it upon a table and put under spots a piece 
of o d black silk; dip a camel's hair pencil in black ink and paint the spots 
lightly ; then wipe them oflf with old soft silk, and the color will be restored 
Partly worn tabncs may often be profitably renewed bv calling in the dver's 
art. Some people have excellent success in using faiuiiV dves, and for them 
it will be an object to color many useful things, for Which it would not be 
worth while to pay a professional dyer's char-e. Ribbons, neckties, trim- 
mmg^s and many small things which need patience and careful manipulation 
can be co ored beautifully at home. Stockings, linings and odds and ends 
that might not otherwise be used, can also be advantageously subjected to 
the amateur process, but for material that is to be remade into dresses it would 
be wisdom to employ the best professional skill. Some things, like merinos 
and cashmere, are worth dyeing at almost any price, and wi!l look like new 
w-lien they are done. Silk dyes well lor some purposes, but will never look 
like new after the process, even if the dyer promises that it will : hence it is 
a mistake to use it conspicuously after dyeing. It can be used as a basis of 
a costume, where the lines are broken by drapery, etc, or it will cut up ad- 
mirably for trimmings, but large surfaces of it should be avoided, as giving 
opportunity for the eye to catch sundry symptoms, such as streaks and a gen- 
eral limpness, which at once reveal the secret. Irish poplins dye well but 
have the one objection of shrinking lamentably. This should be taken into 
consideration m purchasing one of light color, and an extra piece, sufficient 
for a new waist, should be included in the original quantity. Velvets can be 
colored, but although the nap is beautifully raised when done by an expert 
they lose much in appearance, and a velvet which cost ten dollars a vard will 
have the general expression of one which costs less than a quarter of that 
sum. The cost of dyeing velvet is very great, and with such a result to be 
expected as has just been explained, it would be much better to buv good 
new cotton-back silk-faced velvet. Nearly all wool materials, unless too 
loosely woven, color well, but mixtures of cotton and wool will not pav for 
the cost of dyeing. Japanese silks and silk-fmced matelasses do not dye satis- 
factorily White woolen goods will not as some people seem to think take 
every color : on the contrary, there are but few shades that they will become 
Light and Mexican blue, nut-brown, slate, stone color, lavender jacqueminot' 
scarlet, rose and several of the very dark new shades are those which can be 
most certainly obtained. The reason for this limitation is because the sulphur 
with which the wool IS whitened in the manufacture prevents most colors 
from taking hold evenly, to use a technical expression. 

Alpaca is an exception to most fabrics composed of two materials It dyes 
well and does not shrink very much. In most materia's slate color will dye 
black, brown, claret, green, purple and dark blue. Light blue will dye medium 
and navy-blue, purple, crimson, green, prune, claret and black. Claret will 
dye brown, black, crimson and bottle green. Bro^vn will dye darker brown 
claret, black and green. Amber will dye green, scarlet, crimson, black and 
brown. Crimson will dye black, brown, claret and dark green A lio-hter 
shadeof crimson will dye black, brown, claret, dark green, blue ann a darker 
self-shade. Drab will dye scarlet, crimson, green— both light and dark- 
purple, dark blue and claret. Light green will dye claret, brown black and 
crimson. Dark green will dve brown, black and claret. Lavender will dye 
brown, black, garnet, dark blue, green, plum and prune. Mauve will dve dark 
blue, black, claret, crimson, green and purple. Navy blue will dye brown 
green, claret and black. Magenta will dye purple, scarlet, crimson, azuline 
and navy-blue, black, browns and clarets. Purple will dye black, dark crim- 
son, claret and dark green. Pmk will dye blue in most shades, all the red- 



1228 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

dish tones of color, medium and dark blues, black and most of the dark 
colors, including greens. Scarlet will dye dark green and blue, black, garnet 
and crimson. Straw color will take almost any color except light blue, 
lavender and pink. 

Black and all the dark colors, if grown rusty or faded, can be dyed again 
the original color. They may turn out a little darker, but unless the material 
has ugly spots which require more dye to conceal, the color will be nearly 
the same as when new. 

Plaid goods, if thick and unmixed with cotton, will often take a plain color, 
which should be at least as dark as the darkest shade in the pattern. Black 
and white checks prove an exception to this ; as, if ski If ally done, they can 
be dyed scarlet or light blue, the white blocks taking the color and the black 
remaining black. 

It is damaging to dresses and other garments to lie by in a faded and dirty 
state ; therefore, if coloring them is in anticipation, it is best to prepare and 
send them to the dyers. After they are redressed they can be laid away till 
required, and will take no harm. 

Velveteen will dye and look very well at first, but being all cotton its re- 
newed good looks fade very quickly. For furniture or house decorations it 
inight pay to have it done, but otherwise it is hardly to be advocated. 

In coloring the old-fashioned, home-made preparations, requiring many 
ingredients and much labor in preparing, have been supplanted by the ''Dia- 
mond Dyes" lately introduced and kept for sale by all druggists. They are 
aniline dyes, and come in the form of a powder, put up iji papers, and labeled 
with fullinstructions for using. The preparations for using these dyes are 
very simple, and no experience is required if the instructions are imp icitly 
followed. The color card shows the exact shade of the color you select, and 
there is no trouble in experimenting to get the right shade. Besides the dyes 
are cheap and the results are equal to those produced by the professional dyer. 
There are several manufacturers of aniline dyes, and inquiry at the nearest 
drug store will secure all the information as to prices, colors, etc., that may 
be desired by any lady. 

children's clothing, 

Very few grown people understand the hardship it is to little folks to wear 
outgrown or clumsy or ill-fitting garments. Boys are not supposed to have 
their feelings greatly harrowed at the sight of handsomer clothes than their 
own, but even they are quite alive to the mortification of wearing shabby or 
ill-cut and ill-made coats and trowsers. The trial falls most severely upon 
little girls, and to them it is a bitter one, and just as hard to be borne as the 
afflictions of grown people are. With a keen eye for beauty, and often a 
natural or cultivated taste, a poor child is sometimes condemned to wear 
garments of such a hideous character that she loathes the very thought of 
them, and actually suffers the most acute mortification. 

There are mothers who devote too much thought and time to dressing 
their children, and who, by words and acts, lead them to feel that to be 
fashionably and elegantly dressed is the great good of life. This is a lamen- 
table mistake to make, but it also a mistake for a mother to attempt to im- 
bue her child with an indifference to dress or check the love of it by depriv- 
ing her of tasteful clothes. An ugly dress draws the thoughts of the wearer 
to'itself far more than a pretty, becoming one will, and a forlorn, ill-dressed 
little girl will grow up with a longing for finery that neat and pretty dress- 
ing will not often develop. 

There is a good deal of work about making a dress, even if it is a small 
one, but it is very little more trouble to make it tasteful and stylish, and it 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1229 



is a pleasanter task to create a pretty thing ttian an ugly one. Like all other 
arts of the home dressmaker, it takes experience to make a success of 
children's dresses. Amateurs are apt to take fright at the dressy, elaborate 
style now in vogue, but really there is nothing appealing about them with a 
plate or pattern to follow, and the most complicated are frequently the most 
easy to copy in old material, because the elaboration helps to disguise many 
makeshifts in the M^ay of piecing and eking out scanty trimmings. 

A daintylittle miss we know of wears a dress for her "sunday best" 
that looks as it might have been selected from one of the shop windows.- No 
one would suspect it being home-made, much less made mostly of a fabric 
no longer new. The foundation was a plain princesse form, cut from a thin 
lining, which, by the by, was originally a light calico morning dress of one of 
the older sisters. Among the cast-ofT clothes of the family were small por- 
tions of two very old silk dresses, one a fine black and white check, the 
other a plain dark brown. There was not in eittier enough in quantity to 
do much with alone, but combined there was sufficient to make a very good 
result. The silk was poor and thin, but it was carefully cleaned and stiff- 
ened and wherever used furnished with a thin, coarse Swiss muslin lining. 
Long folds of the two silks alternating were put upon the front breadth per- 
pendicularly, reaching from the throat to the bottom of the dress in the cen- 
ter. Across the back were narrow gatliered ruffles of check silk bound with 
the plain brown. The upper part of the dress was of white Angora gauze 
skirting, which was but twenty cents a yard, and resembled a summer 
camel's hair. The fronts were made in sack form, meeting over the long 
center plaits at one point only, about equi-distant between the throat and 
waist, and cut away abruptly above and below. The back was long and 
looped over the ruffles with very graceful effect. The cuffs were of check 
silk, with brown bias binding upon the edge, and the deep round collar (al- 
most a cape) was in the same order. The upper part of the dress was cov- 
ered with brown silk that was too old and poor to be fit for any other use ; 
but, under the polonaise, the worn places did not appear, and the flannel was 
so thin that it required a continuous color beneath to prevent the ugly vari- 
gated appearance that some silk and bunting toilettes present. The polon- 
aise was edged with three rows of machine chain-stitching, done with coarse 
brown silk, and was not a separate garment, being sewed in with the shoul- 
der and side seams, and buttoned in the back with brown buttons. 

Another dress of the same little lady's was made from a pair of old Tur- 
key red curtains, of the dark color and heavy quality of former manufacture. 
The dress was made with a full skirt gathered round" the waist, with five rows 
of shirring. The blouse-waist was gathered in the same way. The deep 
collar, cufl's, wide belt, and the binding to two ruffles on the bottom of the 
skirt, were of Madras gingham in indigo-blue shades. The combination 
made a very quaint and stylish dress, and was modeled from a recently im- 
ported one of much more expensive material. 

Another lady who prides herself on her ingenuity made a very neat 
cloak for her girl from an old pair of pants. The fronts and backs were cut 
of narrow pieces (it could not have been otherwise), with seams extending 
to the shoulder. The pockets and cuffs were in good style, but not of the 
same material, which was a brown basket pattern. The upper parts of the 
sleeves were very presentable, but the under halves were cm-ious mosaics of 
patchwork, telling something of the difficulty with which they succeded in 
being sleeves at all ; but n'importe, nobody— not even a child — voluntarily 
offers the under part of a sleeve for inspection, so its secrets need never be 
revealed. 

In making over children's clothes or elders' clothes for children, there 
is a double advantage in combining more than one material. Fresher parts 
of both can be used, and harmonious arrangement of colors diverts the eye 



1230 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

from the want of newness that might be apparent in a plainer dress. In 
making use of diverse fabrics, there is, however, one all-important thing to 
be kept in mind — there must be a certain harmony in color and method in 
arrangement observed, or the effect will be disastrous. There are people 
with artistic tastes to whom the knowledge of what is fitting and appropriate 
seems to come instinctively, and they need no advice ; but there many busy 
mothers living so far from our great cities and so off from the line of travel 
that they have but little opportunity for cultivating their tastes or of seeing 
what is fashionable, and often but little time to give the subject much 
thought. 

In reading over the ordinary articles upon children's fashions, one is 
constantly struck with the similarity of the materials advised for their cloth- 
ing, to those used for grown people. There seem to be no especial fabrics re- 
served for their use. This fact should be particularly comforting to those 
whose circumstances compel them to prepare their children's clothing from 
their stock on hand, which stock is generally understood to be worn-out 
dresses of mothers and sisters. When there was a marked difference be- 
tween the styles of child and adult, the wearing cast-ofi dresses of their 
elders was a real and bitter trial to little girls ; but there is no trouble about 
it now. Nearly everything that is wearable can be stylishly used under the 
present laws which govern fashion. Plaids and large figures, which might 
be grotesque in whole dresses, make very nice vests and trimmings to light 
up dull looking costumes. 

Old brown or black woolen dresses that have grown rusty and faded, but 
have capabilities of usefulness, can be refreshed by steepin» in a weak de- 
coction of logwood. Other colors in all-wool can be re-dyed at home with 
the ordinary family dyes. It should be remembered that it is much easier 
to re-color goods the same shade than it is to make an entire change of hue. 
It is best to match the color that the material was originally, and saturate it 
in the preparation, following the usually accompanying printed directions 
about drying, pressing, etc. It is a pity to spend time and trouble in making 
up dresses which will look forlorn in spite of the pains lavished upon them 
when a previous ■'-dyeing would have made such a wonderful change in 
their appearance. 

The present very universal fashion of shirring dresses and trimmings is 
admirably adapted to make over old materials into children's clothes. Worn- 
out ruffles can be closely gathered, or gauged, as the term is, and all the 
holes and thin places made invisible by the process. If, for instance, a 
prudent mother has laid aside the flounces from some old skirt she has long 
ago taken for a petticoat or other use, she will now reap the benefit of her 
carefulness, and find herself able to make her child a dress at little cost. 
Let her cut a cambric skirt of a proper size, and cover it with the flounces, 
shirred at each edge with two gatherings, and a similar row through the mid- 
dle. The' shirrings may run around the skirt, and the lapping of the ruffles 
may be concealed by a row of galloon or velvet, or the flounces may all be 
pieced together before the shirrs are made. The gathers should be dis- 
tributed evenly, and sewed firmly down upon the cambric. 

Another mode of using the ruffles is to set them on the skirt perpendicu- 
larly ; in this case the middle shirr may be omitted in each ruffle, unless they 
are over five inches wide. If that style does not meet with approval a puff 
(made of the flounces) may alternate with a close strip of shirring of equal 
width with the shirring all the way around. Again, if it is desirable to piece 
out a scanty pattern, it will do to make the lower pare of the skirt of the ruf- 
fles closely shirred, and cover the rest of it with the dress material. Both 
waists and sleeves, or either one alone, or deep yokes and cuffs, may be en- 
tirely made of fine shirring, which, it will readily be seen, affords a fine op- 
portunity for using up irregular-shaped pieces of old material, as it is of vtigr 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1231 

little consequence how many pieceings are put into any thing that is so closely 
gathered up, always supposing that the industrious toiler has time and pa- 
tience to do the pieceing. Unlimited patience seems to be the attribute of 
nearly all mothers, but time, the economical ones seem, alas, to have in but 
a limited supply. 

It is cruel to condemn little girls, with their naturally dainty tastes and 
love for pretty things, to wearing ugly, ill-fashioned clothes : but even made 
out of such materials as this article treats of, they can be as pretty, if not so 
durable, as if new material were used. 

The subject of boys' wear needs consideration, for there is no direction 
in which the amateur's failures are so distressingly palpable as in boys'clothes. 
The unfortunate little sons of poor, industrious mothers too often are con- 
demned to wear garment^hat give them a hopelessly awkward appearance. 
Growing boys, at their best, are not miracles of grace, but well-made clothes 
do wouclers for them ; and it it is worth while for those who have the work to 
do to study to acquire the tailors' style of finishing garments, without which 
they are certain to have on uncouth, home-made air tliat condemns them at 
once. It is quite possible to learn this art by a little practice and close imita- 
tion of the finish that is found on coats and other articles of tailors' work- 
manship. The secret of style in men's clothes is in pressing — not such press- 
ing as people ordinarily do with the gentle gliding of a warm smoothing-iron 
over the cloth — but a vigorous bearing on with a heavy iron that takes all the 
patience and strength of the worker. The iron should be, as the phrase goes, 
" red-hot," and the danger of scoiching the goods averted by keeping an old 
wet linen cloth between the garment and the iron. Later, a finishing smooth 
miy be given with a cooler iron, through a thin dry cloth, to take out the 
wrinkles sometimes caused by the wetting. 

It is a great mistake to suppose that when a boy's garment is made from 
the cast-off one of a man it is not worth while to take much trouble M'ith it, 
for the cloth is generally of a better quality than that commonly purchased 
for boys, and the worn portions can all be cut away by care in disposing the 
pattern. 

Before appropriating cast-of coats or pantaloons of the father's to replen- 
ish the boy's wardrobes, the garments should be brushed well and ripped up ; 
then washed through two suds made of warm water and very strong soap. 
For reliable colors, a little lye can be added to the first water. Do not twist, 
but stretch and pull the cloth, and fold up each piece tightly, and squeeze out 
the water by pressure, or put it carefully through a wringing-machine. 
Rinse again through two waters, with a little soap in the first, and press out 
the water as before. After all has been squeezed out that can be, hang the 
cloth in the air over a line, and when perfectly dry, roll very tightly in a 
damp towel, and leave for several hours, or till the next day ; then iron on 
the right side, through thin muslin, running the iron over till the cloth is 
entirely dry. If there are any prominent grease spots on the garment, it is 
best, before washing, to remove them with turpentine, potter's clay, or ben- 
zine. Stains can be treated, (though not always with success) with a mix- 
ture of ammonia, camphor, and water. For example — say that a jacket is to 
be cut from a sack coat; having washed the former as directed, select the 
simplest jacket pattern and lay each piece upon the cloth in a position to 
make the fronts out of the freshest parts. If the wrong side of the cloth is 
best worthy to be uppermost, that should have been pressed instead of the 
outside when it was washed. Sometimes the sleeves of gentlemen's coats 
are made in one piece, with but one seam, and that upon the outside. Such 
sleeves can often be used for the back of a jacket, while the original backs 
and parts of the skirt can be used for side pieces and sleeves for the jacket. 
In tailoring work it is necessary to maintain a rigid adherence to the pattern. 
Where two pieces are to be joined, and one is longer than the other, it 



1232 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

will never do to snip off the extra length, as some careless people do, but 
the longest side must be held in in sewing till the extra fullness is taken up. 
In putting the collar on the jacket, care must be observed not to stretch 
or pull it out of shape ; it should also be held full enough to turn over easil)' 
and the seajn should be pressed in the manner mentioned above. If possi- 
ble, a jacket that has been made by a tailor should be made the model of 
imitation in making one at home, and, till experience has made the details 
familiar, it should be referred to in putting in pockets, setting in sleeves, and 
at every step of the way- 
Small pantaloons are readily cut from larger ones, and even when the 
latter are seriously impaired, it' is still possible to make good neiu ones out 
of them. If the back is in holes, the thin parts can be replaced by long gore- 
shaped pieces, such as are seen in army pantal(^ns, and a pattern for boys, 
sometimes called the "cadet pants," can be procured, if such a device is 
needful. In cutting the fronts, try not to have the exact spot come on the 
knees that came there before, but" have it above or below, as it will not only 
wear out faster, but bulge out in an unsightly fashion. If the cloth is thin 
and loosely woven, or has had already a great deal of wear, it will be well 
to line the little pantaloons throughout. The fly should be lined with strong 
drilling interlined with canvas to give sufficient support to the button-holes. 
Short knee-breeches are much eas^ier to make than long ones, and take such 
a small quantity of material that two pairs can be cut from one pair of ordi- 
nary-sized men's pants ; but of course, after a certain age, all the king's hor- 
ses and all the king's men would be a force insufficient to compel a little boy 
to give up his inalienable right to have his trousers as long as his father's ; 
and happy the mother whose young son does not insist on spring bottoms, 
for that is a touch very difficult of attainment to any but an expert. In order- 
ing a pantaloon pattern, it is less important to give the age of the boy than 
the length of his leg (measured upon the outside seam), as height varies 
much in similar ages. The Ulster is a form to be recommended for the over- 
coat, where new cloth is used, because it is so long and large that the material 
can be made into other garments when its original form is outgrown. 

In making underwear for the little ones, the best "nightie" is that called 
the Perfect. Night Dress. It is waist and drawers cut together with feet. 
They are thus perfectly protected even if the covers do come off Tlie gar- 
ments can be of flannel', canton flannel or muslin. It is a great aid to the little 
folks if their chemiloon's waists are made open in front as they can then 
more easily learn to dress and undress <-hemselves. There is not any reason 
why this should not be done, only that opening in the back has been the way 
and we are rather slow in leaving the heathen past. The night-dress must 
open in the back to allow for the flap which buttons up in the back. 

ELDERLY LADIES. 

"^oung people sometimes feel that it makes little difference how mothers 
and grandmothers dress as long as they themselves can make as fair a show 
as the family circumstances allow — a mistake which is unjust and prejudi- 
cial to all parties. It is a disgraceful, and in a great measure, a purely 
American notion, happily banished now from large cities, but still hanging 
about the country, that a young lady, even if her parents are not rich, must 
be gaily, and as far as possible richly clothed, and be able to show soft 
jeweled hands as white as the piano keys she touches deftly or otherwise, as 
the case may be, while mamma spends her overworked time in the meanest 
of clothes, and by reason of shabbiness is seldom seen by her daughter's 
friends, or by any one else except at church. Too often it is conscience 
rather than choice that takes her there, where the comfort of the the service 
is swallowed in the consciousness of the utter forlorness and awkwardness of 



DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1233 

her appearance in obselete dress and antiquated mantilla that were bought 
long before the daughters grew up to monopolize what little comfort and 
luxurj' life in narrow circumstances can give. The mother who allows her- 
self to be set aside in this waj^, and brings up her daughters to feel that hers 
is the secondary place to theirs, fails dismally in her duty to them and reaps 
her reward in the want of respect rendered to her. But if the mother of a 
family is herself to blame for the want of nicety in her dress, the same can 
not always be said of the grandmother, whose failing strength takes her par- 
tially out of the active cares of life, and who ought to be the object of tender 
consideration from every one in the household ; and it should be every one's 
care to have her comfortable and well-dressed — an object of pride, a sort of 
show-piece, instead of a poor, pushed-aside, forlorn object, to be kept out of 
sight. Some clever writer says that a highly-presentable and well-appointed 
grandmother in a family is a patent of respectability. 

There is no arbitr'arj' dictum requiring certain things, but custom re- 
stricts them to a narrow choice of color — brown, purple, black, and gray be- 
ing the only ones allowed. Artistically considered, brown should be also 
excluded, on account of its unbecomingness to the dull tints of hair, eyes, and 
complexion. The ideal dress for an old lady — and one may as well knoAV 
what the ideal is, even if there is but small hope of investing it in the real — 
is severely plain velvet, with soft tulle handkerchieffolded across the breast, 
rich lace ruffles at the wris.t to shade the withered hands, and a decorous 
cap, which makes no attempt to be a head-dress, but has protecting strings 
of lace of ribbon to tie loosely under the chin. We can not all dress our 
dear old grandmothers thus grandly and picturesquely, but we can make 
them comfortable, and fashion their clothes as tastefully as our means will 
allow, remembering that the love of pretty things to wear begins with a wo- 
man's life and generally lasts as long as slie does — perhaps she is never too 
old to be gratified with a pretty cap or dress. 

A black silk dress is not always a possible thing foran old lady, but if, 
l)y any economy the purchase can be made, it is a wise one, for it will last 
aiiy length of time as a best dress, and be such a comfort to the owner as to 
repay any sacrifice incurred when it was bought. It should be made very 
plainly . If the lady is very stout, and likes the style, it can be made a close 
fitting' Gabrielle or princesse, but the usual style is preferable. The waist 
sliould fit comfortabl}', and, unless the wearer has delicate lungs, may be 
cut with the neck open down to the waist, and filled in with a lace or lawn 
handkerchief. An over-skirt is not too youthful, if not long and entirely 
unlooped, but many old ladies prefer single-skirted dresses. In that case 
the breadths arelnit little gored; the one in front may be shaped like an 
apron, and the others left straight and sewed upon the waistband in large 
plaits, except right in the center of the back, where they may be shirred for 
a short distance, to the depth of an inch or two. The bottom of the dress 
may be left plain, or may be bound with velvet instead of the usual braid, or 
may be trimmed with one or more wide flat bands or folds of the silk. The 
sleeves may be trimmed at the hand to correspond with the finish on the 
skirt ; and if the waist is not open as suggested, a small square collar trim- 
med in the same way can be added. If circumstances do not allow the silk, 
black cashmere is certainly the next choice, and will be very handsome 
made up in the same May. I*^ can be made to look richer by edging the folds 
and bias pieces with milliner's folds or narrow pipings of s'ilk. Failing the 
cashmere, black alpaca of the best quality that can be afforded is the best 
substitute. Silk pipings are not so pretty upon this material, but their place 
may be taken by galloon, or the skirt may be set off by two groups, three or 
four in each, of narrow double folds of alpaca. 

A comfortable and welcome fashion for old ladies, which was perhaps sug- 
"•ested by the rage ^or fichus of all kinds, is a shoulder cape, in shape like u 



1234 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 

Sontag, except that the fronts fasten like a dress with buttons, instead of 
being crossed. This is made of black silk, quilted in tiny diamonds over a 
single thickness of wadding, and edged with a double cord, or with a very- 
narrow black lace plaited on. It can be worn with any dress, and is becom- 
ing so much adopted by old ladies in the East that they frequently have cloth 
or crocheted capes of the same made to wear in change with the more dresssy 
one. 

Circulars are frequently mentioned in fashion journals as being well 
adapted to old ladies, but they are really far from being the best shape for 
their wraps, as, having no sleeves, they drag heavily from the neck, and be- 
come very tiresome. A better style is a loose-fitting double-breasted sacque, 
rather long, but not enough so to be heavy and burdensome. 

Caps and bonnets are delicate points, and the old lady whose means are 
too straightened to allow her to call professional skill to her aid (and even 
that IS not always equal to the occasion) is fortunate if she has a friendly 
relative with taste and capacity enough to undertake the critical task, which, 
to be successful, should be really a labor of love. The cap should be pure 
white, and the bonnets black. A well-defined border or ruche of white is 
pretty and becoming, but an indefinite mingling of black and white in either 
cap or bonnet is unbecoming. Small bonnets are out of the question for old 
ladies who need a shape that will amply protect the head, and even the back 
of the neck, where so many nerves center that embrace the slightest oppor- 
tunity of exposure to ache remorselessy. Still the bonnet must not be too 
large, unless to shade a large fat face ; a small head and delicate features in 
a great coal-scuttle of a hat look like a caricature, and the beauty of a bonnet 
lies in its fitness. 

They say there are no old women in modern times, so it would not be safe 
to mention an age to which the plainness of attire advocated in this article 
belongs. But it was designed for those who honestly feel themselves beyond 
the period when 

" One a charm from dress can borrow." 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1236 



MISCELLAISTEOUS. 

For Ivy Poison. — Apply sweet-oil. 

For Burns. — Apply the white of an egg. 

Eust in Iron. — Kerosene-oil will remove it. 

Lamplighters. — Make in proper lengths in pine wood. 

To Scour Tins. — Use whiting moistened with kerosene. 

To Remove Finger-ring. — Hold hand in very cold water. 

Melted Snoiv — produces one-eighth of its bulk in water. 

Squeaking Boots. — Drive a peg in the middle of the sole. 

Worms on Currant Bushes. — Sprinkle freely with buttermilk. 

When to Paint. — Oil-paint lasts longer when put on in autumn. 

To Drive Nails. — Nails dipped in soap will drive easily in hard wood. 

Morocco Leather — may be restored with a varnish of white of an egg. 

Leaky Roofs — A cement made of sand and white-lead paint will stop leaks. 

Stove Polish. — Add little sugar or alum to the blacking and let stove be cold. 

To Keep off Flies. — Paint walls or rub over picture frames with laurel-oil. 

Door-latches and Locks — will work easily and quietly if oiled occasionally. 

To Clean Ermine. — Rub with cornmeal, renewing the meal as it becomes 
soiled. 

Paint. — New woodwork requires one pound of paint to the square yard, 
for three coats. 

To Clean Steel. — Unslaked lime cleans small articles of polished steel — 
like buckles, etc. 

To Harden Wood. — Cut the wood in the shape desired, and boil eight 
minutes in olive-oil. 

To Clean Russia Iron, mix blacking with kerosene, and it will look nearly 
as well as new. 

Coal Fire. — If your coalfire is low, throw on a tablespoon of salt and it 
will help it very much. 

Silverware;— Keep in paper or canton flannel bags, with a little piece of 
camphor gum wrapped in a cloth and tie the top with a string, and it will 
keep as bright as new. 

Ink Spots on Books. — A solution of oxalic acid will remove them without 
injurina: the print. 



1236 MISCELLANEOUS. 



Leaks about Chimneys — may be stopped by a cement made of coal-tar and 
sand, neatly applied. 

Postage Sta7nps — will stick, and not turn up at the corners, if the face is 
wet after applying them. 

Berry Stains. — The fumes of a brimstone match will remove berry stains 
from a book, paper or engraving. 

Varnish for Faded Rubber Goods. — Black Japan varnish diluted with a 
little linseed oil. 

Mice. — Pumpkin seeds are very attractive to mice, and traps baited with 
them will soon destroy the little pest. 

Gas Lighter. — This is very convenient and some- 
, thing which every house, using gas, should have. 

Dry Paint — Is removed by dipping a swab with a handle in a strong 
solution of oxalic acid. It softens it at once. 

To Keep Walks Clean. — Sprinkle with weak brine through a water- 
sprinkler, or scatter salt along the walks. 

To Clean Black Kids. — Add a few drops of ink to a table-spoon of salad- 
oil ; rub on with a feather, and dry in the sun. 

Shingles.— Dip well-seasoned shingles in hme, wash and dry before lay- 
ing, and they will last longer and never take on moss. 

To Clean Straw Bonnets. — First brush them with soap and water, then 
with a solution of oxalic acid, or rub with a cut lemon. 

To Clean Wells of Foul Air. — Throw down a pack of unslaked lime. 
The heat procured carries out the foul air with a rush. 

When a Chimney Takes Fire — throw salt on the fire, and shut off the 
draught as much as possible, and it will burn out slowly. 

Dish-water and Soap-s^ids—T^onred about the roots of young fruit-trees, 
currant and raspberry bushes, etc., facilitate their growth. 

Cheap Paint for Iron Fencing.— Tar mixed with yellow-ochre makes an 
excellent green paint for coarse woodwork or iron fencing, 

Dirty Coat collars. — Apply benzine, and, after an hour or more, when the 
grease has become softened, rub it or remove with soap-suds. 

To Renew Stained Floors— that have grown a Jittle dull, rub thoroughly 
with beeswax and turpentine. Repeat this whenever they need it. 

To clean kettles easily, pour a little hot water in them and put a cover on»; 
the Bteam will soften the dirt so that it may be easily removed. 

Onion Odors. — When cooking onions, set a tin-cup of vinegar on the stove 
and let it boil, and it is said you will smell no disagreeable odor. 

To Soften Leather.— The best oil for making boots and harness leather 
soft and pliable, is castor oil. It is also excellent for greasing vehicles. 

Color of Paints for Tools.— Tools exposed to the sun should be painted 
with light-colored paints, as they reflect instead of absorbing the heat. 

(;r;,j(,._Povvdered chalk added to glue strengthens it. Boil one pound 
glue with two quarts skimmed milk, and it will resist the action of water. 

To Keep Pearls Brilliant.— Kee\) in common magnesia, instead of the 
cotton wool used in jewel cases, and they will never lose their brilliancy. 

Brooms. — If worn sideways, dip in hot soapsuds till soft, straighten and 
lean against a fiat surface to dry, then trim off the uneven edges. If they are 
dipped in boiling suds once a week they will last longer. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1237 




Overshoes. — Mark name of owner with pen and ink on the woven inside 
lining. 

Cement for Cracked Stoves. — Three quarts wood ashes and one quart bar- 
rel salt, mixed in a mortar with water. 

Nickel Stove Trimmings, Etc. — To keep them bright, polish with a damp 
cloth dipped in common dry baking soda, and rub with oil afterward. Or 
simply rub with a cloth dampened with ammonia. 

To Clean Lamp Chimneys. — Moisten a small cloth in kerosene and rub ; 
then wipe them clear with a clean cloth. 

To Clean a Refrigerator. — Use bicarbonate of soda dry on a damp cloth. 
Rub the zinc well with it. It destroyes all musty smell. 

Dish Cloths — Mosquito netting that has been used for a season on windows, 
may be washed and used for dish cloths, by folding together and stitching 
through it. 

Sticky Fly Paper. — Thin common glue, so that it can be brushed over 
manilla paper, then when it is quite drj', melt together one ounce castor oil 
and three ounces rosin, and spread over the prepared paper. 

Scrubbing Brush. — The advantage of the brush, as 
illustrated, is that it has a handle which is movable. 

Lime in Cans. — Lime ground and pulverized for 
white-washing purposes is put in cans and sold by drug- 
gists. It is convenient in form and excellent. 

To clean a brown porcelain kettle, boil peeled potatoes in it. The porce- 
lain will be rendered nearly as white as when new. This will also take ofl 
lime, if formed on any kettle. 

To Make Shoes Durable. — A coat of gum copal varnish applied to the soles 
of boots and shoes, and repeated as it dries until the pores are filled and the 
surface shines like polished mahogany, will make the soles water-proof, and 
make them last three times as long. 

Ebonizing Wood. — Wash any close-grained wood with a strong boiling 
decoction of logwood two or three times, allowing the wood to dry between 
the applications. Then wash with a solution of acetate of iron (made by 
dissolving iron filings in strong vinegar) . 

To Remove Rust From a Stovepipe. — Rub with linseed oil (a little goes a 
great way) ; build a slow fire till it is dry. Oil in the spring to preveni it 
from rusting. 

To Cure a Kicking Coiv. — Take a strap an inch wide and buckle tight 
around each hind leg, just above the hock, tight enough to slightly com- 
press the ham-string. Then she can not kick. In fly time take in the tail 
with the leg and you will not sw^ear. 

Handles. — Knife and fork handles that have become loosened may be 
fastened by taking a piece of quill, putting it into the handle, and pushing 
the knife or fork in firmly, after first heating it. 

Branches of the elder-bush hung in the dining-room of a house, will clear 
the room of flies. There is an odor which the insects detest. 

An Easy Way to Clean Silver Articles. — Set fire to some wheat-straw, 
collect the ashes, and, after powdering it, sift it through muslin. Polish the 
silver plate with a little of it applied to some soft leather. 

To Clean Old Marble. — Take a bullock's gall, one gill soap lees, half a gill 
of turpentine : make into a paste with pipeclay, apply it to the marble ; let it 
dry a day or two, then rub it off, and it will appear equal to new; if very 
dirty, repeat the application. 



1238 MISCELLANEOUS, 



To extract Oil from Marble or Stone . — Soft soap, 1 part; fullers'-earth, 2 
parts; potash, 1 part; boiling water to mix. Lay it on the spots of grease, 
and let it remain for a few hours. 

To make Boots and Shoes Durable. — Apply to the soles four or five succes- 
sive coats of gum-copal varnish; and to the uppers, a mixture of four parts 
of lard to one of rosin. Apply while warm. 

To get Light in a Well or Cistern, — Reflect in it by a looking-glass. Any 
steel or metal lost in a cistern may be drawn out by lowering a strong mag- 
net. 

To make Artificial Butter.— B,endeT beef suet at a very low temperature, 
churn it in fresh buttermilk and yolks of eggs, and treat like butter when 
removed. 

Pounded Glass — mixed with dry corn-meal, and placed within the reach 
of rats, it is said, will banish them from the premises ; or sprinkle cayenne 
in their holes . 

Spots on Varnished Furniture are readily removed by rubbing them with 
essence of peppermint or spirits of camphor, and afterwards with "furniture 
polish" or oil. 

To Keep Seeds Irora the depredations of mice, mix some pieces of cam- 
phor with them. Camphor placed in trunks or drawers will prevent mice 
from doing them injury. 

Furniture Filling. — Mix two gallons plaster of paris, one pint flour, one 
ounce each of pulverized pumice-stone and prepared chalk ; add one half 
gallon boiled oil and one gill Japan di-ying. 

Corn-Bread. — In cutting do not forget to hold the knife perpendicularly, 
that the spongy interior of the loaf may not be crushed into heaviness. 

To Blow out a Candle. — If a candle is blown out by an upward instead of 
a downward current of air, the wick will not smoulder down. Hold the 
candle higher than the mouth in blowing it out. 

Time to Cut Timber. — Hard wood for timber or fire-wood should be cut 
in August, September or October. Hoop-poles should be cut before frost 
comes ; cut at other times, there is danger of worms. 

A Wet Silk Hat, — Shake ofi" the water, rub the way the nap lies with a 
clean linen cloth or silk handkerchief, and hang some distance from the fire 
to dry ; a few hours after, brush with a soft brush. 

To make Old Varnish Dry. — "Sticky" varnish may be dried by applying 
a coat of benzine, and, after two or three days apply a coat of good varni.sli, 
and let dry thoroughly before using the furniture. 

Discoloration on Custard Cups. — To take the brown discolorations ofl' 
cups in which custards are baked: Rub with damp flannel dipped in b(\st 
whiting. Scouring sand or sand soap will answer the purpose. 

To Preserve Steel Pens. — Steel pens are destroyed by corrosion from acid 
in the ink. Put in the ink some nails or old steel pens, and the acid wdl ex- 
haust itself on them, and the pens in use will not corrode. 

To keep Russia Iron Pipe or Siows* during the summer: Give them a 
good coat of coal-oil all over, and put away in a dry place. In the fall give 
it a fresh coat of oil or benzine, and rub it all oflf clean and dry. 

Buckeye Polish. — Take one ounce each shellac and coal-oil, half an ounce 
each linseed oil and turpentine, bottle and keep well corked, shake well be- 
fore using and apply with a sponge. Good for marred furniture. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1239 




For V oultry .—'Fish, are an excellent food for poultry, largely increasing 
the production of eggs. Those who have tried the experiment have discarded 
all the patent egg-producing foods in the market, and feed fish. 

Darning Woolen Socks. — Make the first layer of stout thread, and the 
cross threads of woolen yarn. It makes a firm, smooth darn, which wears 
well. 

Foot Muff. — A cold night one will appreciate this and for aged people it 

is a great luxury. 

) _ Painted Pails. — To draw the taste of 
paint out of new wooden pails that are 
painted inside, fill the pail with butter- 
milk and soak from twenty-four to thirty- 
six hours. 

Moles. — Procure a small pair of bellows and blow the fumes of burning 
sulphur into the holes made by moles in the garden. 

Toast Pack. — Where one has not a folding toast rack, it is easy to im- 
provise one by taking the upper grate from the oven ahd placing it on top of 
the stove or range, and toasting the bread on it. 

Chicken Lice. — Whitewash the hen house and nest boxes, putting in the 
wash a good deal of salt or old brine. Also put half a cup of salt in the bot- 
tom of each nest, and your chickens will never be troubled with the pests. 

Mustard Plasters — If molasses is used to mix the mustard with they will 
remain flexible and will not dry, as when mixed with water. Lay a fine 
cloth over the plaster ; then it will heat without blistering. 

Paint Buckets. — Fill half full of dry dirt and there will be no trouble 
about getting the paint ofi"; or boil ashes and water in them until the paint 
is soft, wipe out and wash with soap-suds or clean with turpentine. 

Covers for Jars. — For covers to jars that have none, in which you keep 
salt, etc., use a paper flour sack ; cut the top off" until just the length of the 
jar is left, then slip it over ; it is so much hartdier than tying every time. 

White Ink.— Make by stirring Flake White into clear mucilage, and re- 
ducing with water till it will flow easily. 

Curling Plumes. — Sprinkle a teaspoon common salt on a hot stove, hold 
plume over it, and when airy enough, take a butter knife or pen knife, and 
curl each sprig carefully. 

Furniture Polish. — Take a small bottle and fill it two-thirds full spirits 
turpentine ; then fill the bottle up with the best linseed oil. Shake well, 
apply with a very thin cloth, and wipe "'ith the same. This will make the 
furniture look nearly as good as new. 

Varicose Veins. — Procure a rubber banaage one and one-fourth incnes 
wide and swathe carefully the entir* limb. Bathing in hot water will relieve 
the burning. 

Candles. — Mutton tallow is perhaps better for candles than beef tallow, 
and is usually cheaper. Prepare the wicks for tallow candles by steeping 
them in coal oil. They make a bright light. 

Bed-Bugs.— To banish bed-bugs after they have got into the walls and 
ceilings of a house, close all doors and windows and burn brimstone or sul- 
phur, by throwing it upon red hot coals is an iron kettle set in the middle of 
the room. Or heat a piece of iron red hot, place in a kettle, throw in the 



1240 MISCELLANEOUS. 



brimstone, and leave room closed for twenty-four hours. It is death to the 
vermin. 

To Make. Hens Lay in Winter. — Keep them warm ; give wheat screenings 
twice a day with shelled corn at night. Feed them with meat scraps when 
lard or tallow has been tried, or fresh meat. Some chop green peppeis 
finely, or mix cayenne pepper with corn meal, to feed them. Let them have 
a frequent taste of green food, a little giavel and lime, or clam-shells. 

For Lice on Children. — Wet the head in -just clear alcohol or whiskey ; or 
even strong cider vinegar will do the work. Sometimes a second appli- 
cation may be necessary to destroy the eggs and all. 

Moths in Furniture. — Dust in all the cracks and seams pulverized borax. 
Strong alum water, spirits of turpentine and salt mixed together and used to 
sponge with is also good. 

To Make Covers for Milk Pans. — Bend thin barrel hoops, tie or tack the 
right size, and sew over them jjieces of thin dairy cloth. Drop over the pans 
of milk to protect from dust and flies. 

To Clean Bottles. — Cut some raw potatoes in pieces, and shake them in 
the bottle with cold water. Or use shot, gravel or tacks instead of potatoes, 
or kernels of corn and table-spoonful of ashes, shake and rinse thoroughh\ 

Onion Flavor. — A little washiug soda dissolved in the water used for 
washing knives and dishes in which onions have been cooked will remove 
the strong odor that remains upon them. 

Labels on Tin. — These may be fixed upon tin boxes, etc., exposed to 
damp by the following method : White of egg is diluted with one-half quart 
of water and applied with a brush to the surfaces to be united. A hot iron 
is then passed over the surface of the paper, so as to coagulate the albumen. 

Hair Falling Out. — Steep a handful of sage leaves in a quart of water ; 
strain and dissolve in the liquid one ounce borax, then add a small teaspoon- 
ful of spirits of camphor. Wash the scalp once or twice a week in this 
preparation. 

To Clean Tin. — Use sifted coal ashes, moistened with kerosene oil ; rub 
briskly, and wash with soap-suds. This will make all tin that is not burned 
as bright as new. For nickel on stoves and flat-irons it has the same efTect. 

Eye Wash. — Cut fine a piece of beef-steak an inch square ; sprinkle on a 
little salt, put in a small wide-mouthed bottle, and pour over an ounce or 
two of vinegar. Pour a little in the hand and bathe the eyes several times a 
day. 

Removing Tar From Black Silk. — Rub some lard on the tar, then wash 
the silk with castile soap and soft water, rinse well, repeating until clean; 
then dry by pinning to a sheet stretched tight on ironing board or carpet. 

To Raise a Nap on Cloth. — Clean the article well, soak it in cold water 
for half an hour ; put it on a board, and rub the thread-bare parts with a half- 
worn hatter's card filled with flocks, or with a teazel, or a prickley thistle 
until a nap is raised; then lay the nap the right way with a hatter's brush, 
and hang up to dry. 

Black Varnish for Chip and Straw Hats. — Best alcohol four ounces, pul- 
verised black sealing wax one ounce ; put them in a pliial, and put the phial 
into a warm place, stirring or shaking occasionally until the wax is dissolved. 
Apply it, when warm, before the fire or in the sun. This makes a beautiful 
gloss. 

Bed-Bugs. — Use gasoline wherever they are. One can use it freely and 
not injure the floor or carpet, as it does not leave a grease spot like kerosere. 
Do not use it with a light or fire near it. Air the room well after using. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1241 



Black Ink. — To one gallon of water either hot or cold, allow two ounces 
logwood ; stir occasionally till it is dissolved. Then add half an ounce bichro- 
naate potash, and one-fourth ounce prussiate potash ; stir till this is also dis- 
solved, and your ink is ready for use. This is very cheap costing about 
15 cents. 

Cabbage Worms. — Into a twelve quart pail of water stir a coffee cup of 
barrel salt, and throw three or four handfuls of brine on each cabbage where 
worms have appeared ; apply about twice a week and the worms will die. Or 
dissolve tablespoon Persian insect powder in a gallon water to every thirty 
plants. Or simply use nearly boiling water. 

Dish Drainer. — A home-made one is to put an old tin pan with nail holes 
in the bottom in a large wooden bowl. The dishes will be clean and shin- 
ing and wiped with much less trouble than usual. 

Sleeve Protector. — When washing dishes, having on a clean dress, draw 
on a pair of old clean stocking tops, hemmed at the bottom. These are easily 
drawn on and off, and since fashion requires that sleeves be worn too tight to 
roll up, one can thus avoid changing dress. These are nice in doing many 
kinds of work. 

Wood — may be fastened to stone with a cement made of four parts of 
pitch, four parts of powdered brick-dust or chalk, and one part of beeswax. 
Warm it before using, and apply a thin coating to the surfaces to be joined. 

Outside Garments. — Bonnets, cloaks, hats, shawls, scarfs, and the like, 
will last clean and fresh much longer if the dust is carefully removed from, 
them by brushing and shaking after returning from a ride or walk. 

New Rope — may be made pliable by boiling in water for a couple of 
hours. Its strength is not diminished, but its stiffness is gone. It must 
hang in a warm room until thoroughly dried, and must not be allowed to 
kink. 

Razor Strops — are kept in order by applying a few drops of sweet-oil. 
After using a straj), the razor takes a keen edge by passing it over the palm 
of the warm hand ; dipping it in warm water always makes it cut more 
keenly. 

Mica Windows — in stoves (often wrongly ^:;alled "isinglass"), when 
smoked, are readily cleaned by taking out and thoroughly washing with 
vinegar a little diluted. If the black does not come off at once, let it soak 
a little. 

Snow on Roofs — maj^ be prevented filling the gutters by placing small 
stools or benches along in the gutters upon which the snow will lodge, thus 
thus leaving a clean space below for the water to run off. 

Medicine Spoon. — Have a 
a tea or table spoon bent in 
this shape, in order to stand 

,-, level when medicine is to be 

v j^^^ dropped into it. It is very con- 
venient where there is only one 
person caring for the sict. 

Arrange Flat-irons — on the stove in two rows, "heel and toe," or so that 
when ready for a hot flat you can take the next one in order without loss of 
time in trying or "sissing" them, being sure to get the one that has been 
heated the longest. 

Chapped Hands. — Grind one side of a pumice stone; wet, and with the 
smooth side, rub the hands. If badly chapped, oil them at night, and dry in 




1242 MISCKLLANBOUS. 



by the fire; or, at night, wet the hands, and rub a little honey over them, 
drying it in before the fire. 

Chickadees in Winter. — A cup of pumpkin-seeds, set on the window-sill, 
will attract chickadees, and they will become quite tame, and are very amus- 
ing with their antics. They may be kept about the house from December to 
May by feeding and kind treatment . 

Shellac Varnish. — Put schel'ac in a bottle, pour 90 per cent, alcohol to 
cover, cork tight and put in a warm room, shake occasionally, and if not all 
dissolved in three or four days, add more alcohol. This is good to varnish 
almost anything, and will dry in half an hour. 

Friction Matches — should never be left vhere the mice will get them, 
as they carry them to their nests, and sometimes ignite them. They are 
poisonous to children, and are dangerous to women, who ignite them by 
stepping on them, endangering their clothing from fire. 

Piling Wood. — Lay the sticks with bark side down and bark will come off 
in drying. If laid with bark up, it will remain fast to the wood. 

To Prevent Pumps from Freezing. — Take out the lower valve in the fall, 
and drive a tack under it, projecting in such a way that it can not quite 
close. The water will then leak back into the M'ell or cistern, while the 
working qualities of the pump will not be damaged. 

Valuable Cement. — Two parts, by weight, of common pitch and one part 
gutta percha, melted together in an iron vessel, makes a cement that holds 
together, with wonderful tenacity, wood, stone, ivory, leather, porcelain, 
silk, woolen or cotton. It is well adapted to aquariums. 

Cows and Turnips. — To prevent the odor and flavor of turnips from ap- 
pearing in the milk, feed while milking, and the flavor will have dis- 
peared before the next milking. With this precaution, feeding turnips will 
increase the flow without injuring the quality or flavor of milk. 

To Clean Varnished Furnitur:, there is nothing so good as a woolen rag 
dampened in spirits of turpentine. This takes all the dust and cloud from 
carvings and panels. When they have been thoroughly cleaned with the 
turpentine, go over the surface again with a bit of flannel dipped in linseed 
oil, rubbing it well into the l^^ood. 

Dried Grated Corn. — One of the best articles for drying the grated corn 
for Corn Fritters or Oysters, is the Fruit Evaporator as described on page 
340 — There is then no danger of burning, as is often the case if dried in oven 
on account of the greater quantity of milk from the corn, than when simply 
sliced. One must be very particular to break apart the little lumps as they 
dry on outside, so inside may be thoroughly dried. 

To Freshen Old Hickory Nuts for Cake-Baking. — Put large ones in boiling 
water for half an hour and small ones for a quarter hour, crack, pick out 
meats being careful not to mix in any pieces of shell or the film that divides 
the two halves, If the meats seem damp, place for a few moments in the 
oven to dry out. Now place in a sieve and rub gently to remove all the dark 
portions that adhere to the meats, and they are ready to be chopped for the 
cake. Chop verj' fine for icings, but only moderately fine for cake. 

Use of Borax. — Borax will instantly remove all soils and stains from the 
hands, and heal all scratches and chafes. When the borax is dissolved add 
more to the water, until at last the water can absorb no more, and a resi- 
duum remains at the bottom of the bottle. To the water in which the hands 
are to be washed pour from this bottle enough to make it very soft. It is 
very cleansing and healthy. By its use the hands will be kept in excellent 
condition — soft, smooth and white. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1248 



Stove PoMs/i..— Add to one pint benzine, one ounce pulverized resin; 
when dissolved, mix any good and finely ground lead, using the above as 
you would water for mixing stove polish. Apply with a small paint brush ; 
and rub it smooth, as it dries rapidly; when dry, polish with a soft stove 
brush ; very little rubbing is required. For sheet-iron use the benzine and 
resin alone, apply with soft rags, and rub rapidly until dry and shining. 

To Keep /S'tZ/t.— Silk goods should not be folded in white paper, as the 
chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will impair the color of the silk. 
Brown or blue paper is better ; yellow India paper is better still. Silk in- 
tended for dress should not be kept in the house long, as lying in folds causes 
it to crack or split, particularly if thickened with gum. White satin dresses 
should be pinned up in blue paper, with coarse brown paper on the outside 
sewed together on the edge. 

To Keep Paint-brvshes. — Turn a new brush bristles up, open, pour in a 
spoonful of good varnish, and keep it in that position until dry, and the 
bristles will never "shed" in painting. The varnish also keeps it from 
shrinking and falling to pieces. As soon as a job is finished, wipe brush 
clean, wrap in piece of paper, and hang it in a small deep vessel containing 
oil, letting the brush descend into the oil up to the wrapping cord. This 
will keep painting and varnish brushes clean and ready for use. 

A Good Cement.— Persons who use brass letters on glass windows or 
doors, are often troubled by the dropping off, from unequal expansion, or 
from too violent efforts on the part of the window-cleaners. The following is 
said to be a sure cement. It should be mixed just before using : Litharge, 
two parts ; white lead, one part; boiled linseed oil, three parts ; gum copal, 
one part. 

Mosquitos. — Take a piece of gum camphor about one third the size of a 
hen's egg, and evaporate it by placing in a tin vessel, holding it over a 
lamp or candle, taking care that it does not ignite. The smoke will soon fill 
the room and expel the insects. 

Mucilage.— One ounce each gum tragacanth and gum arabic ; put into 
wide mouthed bottle and add quart cold water. Or put into a cup ten cents 
worth of gtim arable, and a piece of alum the size of a hickory nut and fill 
with soft water; put it where it will keep just warm until all dissolved. 
Then add water to make half pint, and bottle for use. A few drops of extract 
of lavender will prevent any mucilage from molding or becoming sour. 

To Keep Eggs. — Pack in either August, September or later in oats, either 
enddcfwn in barrels kegs or boxes. Fill the package full, head or nail the 
package and place in dry cellar, and turn the package over every week or 
ten days. 

Cement for Wood, Glass, Marble and China. — Two quarts water, one and a 
Iralf pounds glue, two ounces white lead, three pints whiskey ; dissolve the 
glue on the stove in the water, take from the fire, stir in the lead, and add 
the whiskey ; when wanted to use, warm and stir. 

Wash for the Hair.— Use salt and water strong enough to taste quite 
salty as a wash for the head and to wet the hair thoroughly as often as once 
in two or three days ; one might think it would make the hair harsh and stiff, 
but on the contrary it has the effect of some soft dressing. Bay rum and 
glycerine make a good dressing also for the hair. 

Scorched Food.— As soon as you discover your food scorching, plunge the 
vessel into cold water; and even if your food is burned on the bottom, it is 
saved from any taste of scorching. Some people always have a pail of cold 
water standing by the stove. Try it, and you will be surprised at the effect. 



1244 MISCELLANEOUS. 




Red Edges. — Mix red diamond dye to a light or dark shade with cold 
water, and use it to tint the plain or white edges of your books, which unless 
stained or gilded, soon look soiled. Apply with a brush, holding the book 
firmly, and when dry rub with a cloth till no more color comes ofi. 

To Clean Wash Basins etc. — Rub with a little baking soda on a damp 
cloth, it is also good to clean unpainted wood work ; and a tablespoonful 
added to a pail of mop water will clean your floor easily and make it look 
well. Or use a little kerosene on the basin with a cloth, rubbing dry with a 
larger cloth and expose to air a few moments, 

A Ventilator. — There is, in these days, line upon line and precept upon 
precept upon the subject of ventilation. Every chimney 
ought to have two flues — one for smoke and the other for 
ventilation. The form of ventilator represented in cut is 
neat and inexpensive, and fits a space in a chimney large 
enough to take in an ordinary stove-pipe. 

Cure for Sleeplessness. — Wring a towel out of cold water ; 
fold it smooth about a quarter of a yard long and and eighth 
wide, bend the head forward, lay the cloth on the back of the nead just 
above the neck, then bind a dry towel over it around the head. It cools the 
brain. 

Hernia. — Take a piece of adhesive plaster an eighth of a yard square , 
put under it a small piece of cotton batting and a piece of linen — the latter 
next the flesh ; press the plaster on to an inch in depth all around. Do not 
disturb till it wears off; then put on another if necessary. 

Renewing Old Rag Carpet. — Have the carpet very clean, dissolve Dia- 
mond dyes according to directions, and dilute with warm water; take a 
breadth at a time, and lay on the colors with a tooth brush. If it is a dry- 
ing day it will soon do to walk over. 

To Keep Celery. — Take a box five or six inches deep and large enough to 
hold the celery you wish to keep. Fill nearly full of dry sand. Set in single 
bunches in the sand in upright position, as deeply as possible; pressing the 
sand close about each bunch, not allowing the bunches to touch each other. 
Keep box in cellar, away from frost. 

To Remove Grease from Carpets. — Dissolve an ounce of pearlash in one 
pint of water, and to this add a lemon cut into thin slices. Mix wall, and 
keep the mixture for two days, then strain and bottle the clear liquid for 
use. A small quantity poured on stains occasioned by grease, ail, or pitch, 
will speedily remove them. Afterward wash in clear water. 

Superfluous Hair. — One ounce fresh lime-stone, and one dram pure 
potassa, to be reduced to a fine powder in a mortar. Wet the hair first for 
ten minutes in warm water. This mixture formed into a thin paste with 
warm water and applied while warm will eflectually destroy superfluous 
hair in five or six minutes. It should be removed as soon as it begins to in- 
flame the skin, by washing with vinegar ; this softens the skin, and kills the 
effect of the alkali. 

Cement for Rubber or Leather. — Dissolve one ounce of gutta percha in one 
half pound chloroform. Clean the parts to be cemented ; cover each with 
solution, and let them dry twenty or thirty minutes ; warm each part in the 
flame of the candle, and press very firmly together till dry. 

Insurance. — Suppose your barn or house should take fire to-night and be 
burned down, would you know, without investigating, that it was fully in- 
sured and that the policy was good and tight ? Some insurance companies 
have a keen scent for flaws in policies and often find them. Don't let them 
find one in .yours. Always insure in companies known to be sound. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1245 



To make Old Paint Dry. — Old paint which is "sticky" may be made hard 
and dry by applying a coat of benzine, then after a day or two, if the coat of 
paint is good, go over it with a thin coat of laquer mixed with one-third of its 
bulk of boiled oil. If paint is thin apply a second coat in which more laquer 
is used. 

To Renovate Hat-bands token Stained by Sweat. — Dissolve one and a half 
ounces white castile soap in four ounces alcohol and one ounce each of sul-, 
phuric ether and aqua ammonia, apply with a sponge or toothbrush, rub 
smartly, rinse out vfith clear rain-water. This is equally good to renovate 
cloth with fast color. 

To Thaw Out a Pump. — Pour hot water directly on the ice through a tin 
tube, lowering it as fast as the ice thaws. Ice may be thawed in this way at 
the rate of a foot a minute ; while, by pouring hot water into the pump, the 
ice would hardly be affected, the hot water being lighter than the cold, and 
rising to the top. 

Water-proof Shoes. — To make shoes water-proof and make them last a 
long time, dissolve beeswax and add a little sweet-oil to thin it. Before the 
shoes are worn, warm the soles and pour the melted wax on with a teaspoon ; 
and then hold it close to the fire till it soaks into the leather ; then add more 
till the leather ceases to absorb it. 

Diamond Cement. — Dissolve thirteen ounces of white glue in a tin dish 
containing a pint and a half soft water (set in a kettle containing boiling 
water) ; when the glue is dissolved, stir in three ounces of white lead, and 
boil till well mixed ; remove from fire, and when cool, add half pint alcohol ; 
bottle immediately, and keep well corked. 

A Good Paste. — To one pint cold water add two heapingtablespoons flour. 
Put the flour in a pan, add a little of the water, stirring until smooth ; then 
add the rest of the water, stir thoroughly, place on the stove and stir con- 
stantly until it boils. After taking from the stove, add one-fourth teaspoon 
ground cloves to keep it sweet. 

Piece-Bags. — White cotton piece-bags hung in the linen closet are a 
great convenience ; have them made with a string to draw from both sides ; 
mark in large letters in indelible ink, "Merino and Cloth," "Cotton and 
Linen Sundries," "Dress Pieces," "Old Linen," "Worsted and Yarn," 
"Old Silk," "Thread and Tape," "Old Gloves," etc. 

To Remove White Spots on Furniture, caused by a hot iron or hot water, 
or to restore blistered furniture. — Rub with a No. 1 sand-paper somewhat 
worn, or apply pulverized pumice stone mixed with a few drops of linseed 
oil, then with a cotton cloth rub on some shellac varnish thinned well with 
turpentine. Or, rub with spirits of camphor. Or pour some oil on the spot, 
and rub hard with a soft cloth, pour on a little spirits of wine, and rub dry 
with another cloth. The marks will disappear leaving the furniture as 
bright as before. 

Weight of Grain. — Wheat 60 pounds in all states except Connecticut, 
where it is 56 ; corn 56, except in New York, where it is 58 ; oats 32 ; barley 
48 ; buckwheat 46 to 50, but generally 48 ; clover seed 60, but 64 in Ohio and 
New Jersey ; timothy 44 ; flaxseed 56 ; potatoes 60 ; beans 60, but in Ohio 56, 
and New York 62. 

Unfermented Wine for Communion. — Weigh the grapes, pick from the 
stems, put in a porcelain kettle, add very little water, and cook until stones 
and pulp separate ; press and strain through a thick cloth, return juice to 
kettle, and add three pounds sugar to every ten pounds grapes ; heat to sim- 
mering, bottle hot, and seal. This makes one gallon, and is good. 



1246 MISCELLANEOUS. 



To Cure Worms in Horses. — Put a handful of sifted wood ashes in a quart 
bottle, and fill the bottle with cider vinegar. It will foam like soda water. 
It should be given to the horse the moment it foams. Two bottles will cure 
the worst case of worms. Forty years' experience attests the efficiency of 
this. Never known to fail. 

Harmonious Color Contrasts. — The following list of harmonizing colors 
will be found very useful in selecting wall decorations or colors for any pur- 
pose : Red with green, blue with orange, yellow with violet, black with 
warm-brown, violet with pale-green, violet with light-rose, deep blue with 
golden-brown, chocolate with light blue, deep red with gray, maroon with 
warm-green, deep blue with pink, chocolate with pea-green, maroon with 
deep blue. 

Method of Bleaching Straw. — Dip the straw in a sokition of oxygenated 
muriatic acid saturated with potash. (Oxygenated muriate of lime is much 
cheaper.) The straw is thus rendered very white, and its flexibility is in- 
creased. Or bleacli by simply exposing it in a closed chamber to the fumes 
;f burning sulphur — an old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the 
purpose by milliners, a flat stone being laid on the ground, the sulphur 
ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the goods to be bleached, turned 
over it. The goods should be previously washed in pure water. 

A Match Safe. — Most people think any kind of a match safe will do, and 
matches are placed in all sorts of receptacles, exposed to 
all sorts of accidents. Occasionally a baby is poisoned 
>by picking them from the floor and putting them in its 
mouth, and oftener houses are burned up by stray 
matches that are ignited nobody knows how. The only 
proper place to put matches is in a metal box with a selr- 
closing lid. The one represented in cut is of metal, and 
the lid closes by its own weight. 

To Bleach Linen. — Mix common bleaching powder in the proportion of 
one pound to a gallon of water ; stir it occasionally for three days ; let it set- 
tle, and pour it off" clear. Then make a lye of one pound of soda to one gal- 
lon of boiling soft water, in which soak the linen for twelve hours, and boil 
it half an hour. Next soak it in the bleaching liquor, made as above; and, 
lastly, wash it in the usual manner. Discolored linen or muslin may be re- 
stored by putting a portion of bleaching liquor into the tub wherein the arti- 
cles are soaking. 

Raising Tomato Plants. — Take building paper (any thick paper will do), 
cut in pieces eleven inches long and three wide ; lay one end over the other 
and fasten ; and fill with dirt after setting it in a dish, (an old waiter is good) . 
Put only one seed in a cup, and when large enough to transplant, cut the 
thread which holds the cup together and set the cup with the dirt and plant 
in the ground, leaving the cup around the plant to keep cut worms away. 

To make a Long Mat. — After stringing on the twine the small pieces of 
cloth, muslin, etc., as described in the Scrap Mat, cut them into the lengths 
required, and lay them side by side. Sew the strips strongly together, and 
clip the scraps until the whole mat is of a uniform thickness, and no ragged 
pieces stand up. To make the rug handsomer let the piece of twine intended 
to go outside be strung with pieces of the same color and material, red, black 
or Ijlue, which will make a border. The center may be of mixed colors and 
materials. 

Worms on Gooseberry Bushes. — When the first worms appear on goose- 
berry or currant bushes, sprinkle thoroughly with strong alum water. Re- 
peat, if necessary. This dries up the worms without injuring the bushes, 
and is better to use than hellebore. 




MISCELLANEOUS. 



1247 





Tying Comforters. — Take raveled yarn, wash woolen socks and mittens, 
when worn out, cut out the good places, and lay away; then, when com- 
forters are to be tied, use the raveled yarn, leaving the ends a little long; 
they "kink" down and look nice, and the woolen yarn does not tear the 
calico as cotton yarn does. 

Tile Easel. — A very 
neat contrivance for 
holding ornamented tile 
is an easel of white 
wire, and is represented 
in one of the accompan- 
ing cuts ; in the other it 
beai's the tile. Nothing 
neater or better suited 
to the purpose could be 
devised. The very beau- 
tiful decorated tiles now 
so easily obtained, may 
thus be made appro- 
priate and effective or- 
naments for tables, mantels, etc. 

Soft Eggs. — For hens that lay soft eggs, give them wheat screenings ; 
also give every day to sixty fowls one pint of the following mixture, viz : A 
peck of ash of burned bones or oyster shells, finely powdered ; one pound 
flour of sulphur, one peck of wheat bran. Mix with some scalded meal, 
well moistened so that the mixture will adhere to it. This supplies a lime, 
which the shell needs to make it hard. 

Kitchen Economy. — This may be practiced eyery moment of the day and 
in not any one thing is it so necessary as in the littles that may be wasted. 
The bits "of butter sticking to the plates after meals if carefully saved in a 
small tin can, will in a few days make a good-sized cake. In cooking mush, 
or mashing vegetables the spoonful or two left in saucepan or kettle to go 
into the dish-water each day, would soon have made a meal. Being careful 
to take out all of whatever article cooked, will save quite a little during 
the week and will make cleaner dish- water. 

Care of Boots and Shoes. — When they are water soaked, fill with dry oats, 
and set away from the fire ; the oats will absorb the water, and will swell 
and the leather will be prevented from shrinking. 

Movable Table. — Have it three feet long, eighteen inches wide, and two 
feet and a half high, with stout legs and castors. A strip of molding to 
stand up an inch and a half above the top, placed around the edges to keep 
things from slipping off. During themeal it affords a convenient place for 
the coffee-pot out of the way of the little toddlers, also for an extra loaf of 
bread, extra dishes, and so foi'th. You can have it made at a trifling cost, 
and it saves the work of setting and cleaning the table one half at least. 

To Cleanse a Barrel. — Put in a quart of unslacked lime, then pour in 
three or four gallons of hot water, bung up the barrel and roll it about, until 
every part of the interior is wet with the mixture, pour out the lime water 
and rinse with clean hot water, or dip tape or a long piece of cloth into 
melted sulphur, this being lighted slip one end into the bung hole and fasten 
the other to the edge until the sulphur is burned off. 

Everlasting Paste. — Dissolve half an ounce of alum in a pint of boiling 
■water; to this add an equal weight of flour, made smooth in a little cold 



1248 MISCELLANEOUS. 



water, and a few drops of oil of cloves, letting the whole come to aboil. 
This paste will keep for months, and insects will not eat it. It may be kept 
in a glass or ordinary ointment jar, and will often come handy. 

To Clean Lamp Fixtures. — Remove the wick and boil the fixture in 
strong lye water, or water having soft soap in it, for three hours. A smok- 
ing lamp treated in this way will be as good as new. For simply brightening 
the burners take common salt and strong vinegar mixed and rub them well, 
then rinse in soapsuds and rub dry, they will look like new ones and do not 
cost much. 

Quick Dish-washing. — Have dish-pan nearly full hot water, with a clean 
cloth ; spread a large, thick towel over the table at one side. Wash dishes 
quickly and turn up on the towel to drain: dry knives, forks and spoons, 
then wash and wipe pans. etc. Pour out water, spread wiping towel over 
the dishes and leave them. After a while set them away if you like, for if 
water was warm and clean, they will be dry and shining. 

Rust on Ploivs. — The following preparation applied to the surface will 
prevent any rusting on plows or any other metal surfaces : Melt one ounce 
of resin in a gill of linseed oil, and when hot mix with two quarts kerosene 
oil. This can be kept on hand and applied in a moment with a brush or- 
rag to the metal surface of any tool that is not going to be used for a few 
days, preventing any rust and saving much vexation when the time comes 
to use it again. 

Stocking Knees. — Children's stocking knees can'be mended by picking up 
a row of stitches below the hole and knitting a strip wide enough and long 
enough to cover the hole good. Then whip down the edges to the stocking 
with yarn the color you knit the strip with. If you have yarn like the stock- 
ings it can hardly be seen. New heels and toes can also be knit by cutting 
off the old ones, and picking up the stitches. Knit the heel and sew in. 

To Pack Laces. — Fold them in blue tissue pajoer or soft linen, because 
white paper contains bleaching acids, and discolors and decays the ribbon or 
lace. The same is true of white shoes or gloves, and especially silver orna- 
ments. The latter, though worn every evening, retain their purity and bril- 
liancy for months if kept closely in blue tissue paper. Shoes and slippers 
should never be folded together without a cloth or paper between them, as 
the sole of one soils the upper of the other. Put one in the cloth, turn it 
over. Then add the other. 

To Cleanse Wool. — Make a hot bath composed of water four parts, urine 
one part ; enter the wool, opening it out to admit the full action of the liquid ; 
after twenty minutes' immersion, remove from the liquid, and allow it to 
drain ; then rinse it in clean running water, and spread out to dry. The 
liquid is good for subsequent operations ; only keep up the proportions, and 
use no soap. 

Fuller's Purifier for Cloths. — Dry, pulverize, and sift the following ingre- 
dients : Fuller's earth six pounds, French chalk four ounces, pipeclay one 
pound; make into a paste with rectified oil of turpentine one ounce, alcohol 
two ounces, melted oil soap one and one half pounds. Make up the mixture 
into cakes of any desired size, keeping them in water or small wooden boxes. 
A less quantity can be made by using same proportions. 

Substitute for Casters.— Casters on heavy chairs, tables, bed-steads, etc., 
are always getting out of order, and are very destructive to carpets. A sub- 
stitute , which is a vast improvement in every respect, is a polished half -glo be 
of steel, with a screw projecting from flat side. This screw is turned into the 
bottom of the chair-leg, and the rounded and polished surface rests on the floor 
or carpet, and the chair is moved with ease and with almost no wear to carpets. 
When hard wood floors are used a rubber tip is better than steel. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1249 




Rat-trap.— The cunningest old rat may be caught thus : Set an ordinary 
steel trap on a level spot near his run or haunts and set so it will spring easy. 
Spread a thin piece of white muslin or piece of old bag about two feet square 
over the trap, and on this scatter carelessly some crumbs of cheese or cake, 
but not too many. This will fool him and he will be caught in the trap, which 
should have a good spring. If the cloth gets bloody or soiled change for a 
fresh one if there are more rats to catch. Or, fill a common wash boiler one- 
third full of water, and sprinkle over the surface a few handfuls of oats. 
These will float on the surface and look like a tempting feast, but the rat that 
ventures in is drowned. By placing a block of wood in the center large 
enough to float one rat, its cries will often call more in. This trap will prove 
effective when others fail. 

Foot Stools.— Worn-out hassocks can be prettily covered, and made fit for 
sitting room foot stools with cuttings from carpets. Cut them into squares, 
bind them with common braid, such as is bought for the bottom of ladies' 
dresses, and then sew the pieces together; a long piece, bound top and bot- 
tom, will go round the stool to which the top is sewn, and a piece of strong 
glazed lining will serve for the under part. If a round shape is preferred, 
the pieces of carpet must be cut into triangles. 

Windorv Hook.— It is often difficult to find or contrive a hook on which to 
fasten tne bird-cage or a hanging- 
basket, which needs to be hung op- 
posite the center of a window, with- ' 
out marring the casing. The cut 
represents a neat hook which is per- 
fectly adapted to the purpose. The 
two upper arms end in rings through 
which screws pass into the upper edge of the window casing, while the end 
of the third arm simply rests against the front of the casing. It is firm enough 
to sustain any ordinary weight. 

To Remove Letters from flour sacks : — First wash the sack in cold water 
to get the starch out ; then rub soap on the paint, put it in pretty strong cold 
lye water, set it on the stove and let it come to a boil ; then wash it in the 
usual way, or before the sack has been wet, grease the letters, hang up by 
the stove half an hour, then cover with soap, roll up tightly, and let soak a 
few minutes. Then wash and boil in the usual way. 

Jn Knitting children's hose worn above the knee, it is a good idea to knit 
a gore for the knee by widening. Begin to make two stitches, say an inch 
from the top. Widen, twice every three or four rounds till the gore is an 
inch and a half or two inches wide, then narrow in the same order. The 
gore must of course be exactly opposite the seam. 

An Excellent Dust-pan.— lia\e a tin box made witli three sides, the back 
part six inches high, the sides sloping down towards the front, let it be level 
on the floor, insert along upright wooden handle (a broom handle will do), 
in the center of the upper side of the back : a socket must be made for the 
handle. The common dust-pans that have to be held with one hand while 
the dirt is swept into them are very defective— wdth one made in this way it 
is not necessary to stoop at all. 

Bedding.— Once a week, or as often as possible the ySar around, hang the 
bedding out on the line to air in the sun and wind. This is not only a sani- 
tary precaution, but it is a great pleasure to have the bedding smell so sweet 
and fresh. If there is anything detestable andninwholesome it is a bed reek- 
ing with the accumulated odors of washing, frying and stewing which pene- 
trates to the remotest corners of many houses. There is no need of it. Even 
the poorest can have fresh air, atleatt in the country. 



1250 



MISCELLANEOUS. 




A SparkOuard. — Half the pleasure of an open fire is lost if there is not 
some protection against sparks that are more prone 
to fly out on the carpet than they are to fly upwapd. 
Guards are now made to fit any shape or size of open- 
ing in the fireplace, and are a perfect protection 
against sparks, while not materially shutting in the 
heat or affecting the draft. The frame is made of 
woven wire, and is lined with guaze wire. 

To Clean Ostrich Feathers. — Cut some white curd 
soap in small pieces, pour boiling water on 
them, and add a little pearl ash. When the soap is 
quite dissolved and the mixture cool enough for the 
hand to bear, plunge the feathers into it, and draw 
them through the hand till the dirt appears S()ueezed out of them : pass them 
through a clean lather with some blue in it ; then rinse them in cold water 
with blue, to give them a good color. Beat them against the hand, to shake 
off the water, and dry by shaking them near a fire. When perfectly dry, 
coil each fiber separately with a blunt knife or ivory folder. 

Screens. — Ingonious persons may make screens out of two-fold towel or 
clothes rack, the rack is covered with stout unbleached muslin or thin can- 
vas, and on this is pasted Japanese wall paper that is very effective. The 
bai's may be stained or painted according to fancy. On one of these screens 
may be pasted Christmas and birthday cards, arranging them very prettily. 
The spaces may be filled in with dead gold paper having a delicate fl riated 
design. The effect will not be unlike the Japanese paper screens. Or c^ver 
with a soft blue paper and over this a flight of swallows cut from dull black 
paper may be placed. 

Hangers for 
Plaques. — It is not 
easy to find a safe and 
convenient way of 
hanging up the beau- 
tifully orn a m e n t e d 
plaques, now so much 
in fashion. One of 
the cuts given here 
shows an ingenious 
and cheap hanger, 
and the other the 
hanger in use. They explain themselves. 

To Start Seeds. — Use good manure in the 
hill ; cover with the soil ; then set a common bowl where you wish the hill to 
be, and bring the soil around it ; press down and level with the top ; remove 
he bowl and plant in the bottom of the hole thus made and lay a pane of 
glass over it for a few days ; or some take sod, cut into squares of two or three 
inches soak good with liquid manure, put in a sheltered sunny place and 
put a couple of seeds in each square. Then later in the season the pieces 
of sod can be put in the garden and the plants will not be stunted by trans- 
planting. Some covering should thrown ov^* them if there is likely to be 
frost after the plants are up. 

Disinfectant. — Dissolve half drachm nitrate of lead in pint boiling water 
also two drachms common f^alt in bucket of water. Pour two solutions 
together and allow sediment to settle. A cloth dipped in this will sweeten 
an impure atmosphere immediately ; or the solution poured down a sink, or 
other pipes or over a heap of refuse, will produce like results. 





MISCELLANEOUS. 1251 



To Bleach Feathers. — Place the feathers from three to four hours in a tepid 
dilute solution of bicarbonate of potassa, to which, cautiously, some nitric 
acid has been added (a small quantity only). To remove a greenish hue 
induced by this solution, place them in a dilute solution of sulphuric acid, in 
water, whereby the feathers become j)erfectly white and bleached. 

To Oil Floors. — For light color, use boiled linseed oil clear, rubbing it in 
thoroughly with a piece of flannel. For dark color, add burnt umber, (a small 
box of it costs 25 cents), making it darker or lighter as you choose. A very 
pretty way is to use the clear oil for every alternate board, and for the others 
the umber and oil. This is especially handsome for narrow- boards, (three 
inches wide) giving a soft pine floor the appearance of oak and walnut. It 
can be cleaned with clear water. 

To Destroy House Insects. — To rid a house of red and black ants, cock- 
roaches, spiders, bedbugs and all crawling pests that infest our homes, take 
two pounds of alum and oissolve in three or four quarts of boiling water. 
Let it stand on the stove until all dissolved, then apply while hot to every 
joint and crevice, in your closets, bedsteads, pantry shelves and the like. 
Brush the crevices in the floor and base boards, if you suspect they harbor 
any vermin. Cockroaches will flee the" paint which has been washed in cool 
alum water. If in washing a ceiling, plenty of alum if added to the lime, 
it will also serve to keep insects at a distance. 

A Blower Rack. — One of the most difii- 
cult things to dispose of, after it has served 
its purpose in kindling a fire, is the blower. 
It is too hot to come in contact with carpet 
or floor or wood work, too hot to hang up, 
and in fact too hot to dispose of in any way. 
Just here a happy thought has struck some 
ingenious fellow, and the rack represented 
here comes to the front. The difficulty is 
solved, and there is a place to put the blower 
after its work is done. Like many other 
good things it is so simple that everybody wonders why it was not made before. 

A Home-made Lounge. — A long packing box, such as may be had for a 
trifle at almost any dry goods store, of the right height, lined with wall-paper, 
the cover put on with hinges, and if of more than one board, strengthened 
by cleats on the underside, and the whole neatly cushioned and covered with 
tastily selected calico, makes a very pretty lounge, and may be used also for 
a recepticle of the best dresses. When more than one dress is to be stored 
in it, and it is important to avoid crushing, a thin board resting on strips 
nailed on the ends inside half way up divides the box into two equal apart- 
ments. Place the dress least tised in the bottom, drop the dividing board 
into place, and lay in other garments more commonly used. Nothing injures 
good dresses more than too close packing and much folding. 

A Cheap, Durable Hearth. — Mix sifted wood ashes, salt and water, mak- 
ing a stiff mortar. Pour this into place for the heartli, and beat down with a 
maul or something of that kind ; as it beats down put in more and so continue 
till it is full enough ; then smooth off the top with a knife or anything that 
will make it very smooth. Make up a big fire in the grate or fireplace and 
let it dry before cracking. If it cracks put more mortar on, filling the cracks 
and smoothing. It is white and smooth as glass almost, and very hard. 
The proportions of salt and ashes are a tablespoon of salt to one gallon of 
of ashes. 

To Drive Away Ants. — First of all perfect cleanliness is essential. Pul- 
verized borax sprinkled in places where they frequent, also the free use of 




1252 MISCELLANEOUS. 



green wormwood scattered among their haunts ; or a sponge can be wet in 
sweetened water, squeezed out and laid upon shelves where they are numer- 
ous. The next morning plunge it into boiling water and the intruders will 
be destroyed. Repeat this a few times and they will be effectually cleaned 
out. Little red ants cannot trav«'l over rag or wool carpets. Set the meat- 
safe on a piece of rag carpet, and cover the closet or pantry shelves with 
with flannel, and the ants will disappear, this is better than to have tar 
around your larder, for although it has a healthy pine odor, still it is too 
strong a scent to have near most kinds of food. And last, but not least, ants 
of any color or size may be driven away by using a solution of corosive sub- 
limate in alcohol. Put this solution on the shelves and in the crevices of 
closets, and when dry cover them with paper. Apply with a brush. 

Remedies for Roup. — This disease is common to all fowls, the result of cold. 
The ordinary symptoms, — swollen eyes, running at the nostrils, and the pur- 
ple color of the wattles. Part birds so affected from the healthy ones, as 
when the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders among horses. 
Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily a peppercorn enclosed in 
dough ; bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water. If the head 
is swollen, bathe with warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting 
well, put half a spoonful of sulphur in his drinking water. Some fanciers 
prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table-salt, dissolve in half a gill 
of water in which rue has been steeped; others, pills composed of ground 
rice and fresh butter ; but the remedy first mentioned will be found the best. 
As Ihere is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of eggs laid by roupy 
hens, it would be as well to throw them away. The pip is a white horny skin 
growing on the tij) of the bird's tongue. It should be removed with the 
point of a penknife, and the place rubbed with salt. 

A Safe and Register. — It sometimes happens that houses are so planned 
hat a stove-pipe passes through the floor to the room in second story before 

passing into the chimney, a drum being used 
for heating the upstairs room. The illustra- 
tion represents the upper end of a safe and 
register through which the pipe passes. The 
length of the safe is equal to to the width of 
the joists plus the thickness of the floor and 
the lath and plastering. The space between 
the two walls (tin or Russia iron) of the safe is 
three inches ; they are connected together be- 
low by a perforated c&st-iron circle, and above 
by the circle shown in cut, which is fitted with 
a sliding circle which opens or closes the 
apertures. When open, the warm air from 
the room below rushes up to the upper room ; 
when closed it is simply a perfect safe, tha 
large air space between the walls being per- 
fect protection. The slide or the register is operated from below by cords 
which drop to a convenient distance below the ceiling. 

Diies for Furs. — Brown — use tincture of logwood. Red — ground Brazil- 
wood half a pound, water one and a half quarts, cochineal half an ounce ; 
boil the Brazil-wood in the water one hour ; strain and add the cochineal ; 
boil fifteen minutes. Scarlet color — boil half an ounce saff"ron in half a pint 
of water, and pass over the work before applying the red. Blue— logwood 
seven ounces, blue vitriol one ounce, water twenty-two ounces ; boil. Purple 

logwood eleven ounces, alum six ounces, water twenty-nine ounces. Oreert 

strong vinegar one and one half pints, best verdigris two ounces (ground 

fine), sap green one-quarter of an ounce; mix all together, and boil. 





MISCELLANEOUS. 1253 

Colors for Artificial Flowers.— The French employ velvet, fine cambric and 
kid for the petals, and tafi'eta for the leaves. Very recently thin plates of 
bleaclied whalebone have been used for some portions of the artificial flowers. 
Colors and Stains: — JSZ»^— Indigo, dissolved in oil of vitriol, and the acid partly 
neutralized with salt of tartar or whiting. Green— a, solution of distilled ver- 
digris, i^7ac— liquid archil. i?ed— carmine dissolved in a solution of salt of 
tartar, or in spirits of hartshorn. Violet— Yiquid archil, mixed with a little 
salt of tartar. Yellow — tincture of turmerie. The colors are generally ap- 
plied with the fingers. 

Broom Holder—A place for every thing and every thing in its place ap- 
plies to a brush-broom as well as to other household neces- 
sities The neat wire-frame represented in cut is one good 
way of disposing of that article, and may serve to suggest 
to ingenious housewives many other Ways just as good. 

To Make a Handsome Scrap Mat. — This is good work 
for children. Take a ball of twine and a large needle, cut 
pieces of cloth, muslin, silk, or any thing you have, into 
squares about an inch each way. Thread these on the 
twine until you have covered about three yards. Then cut 
the twine and fasten it well to prevent its slipping, and roll 
it round and round, takinglong stitches through and through 
to keep it steady and flat. When quite firm take a large 
pair of scissors, and, laying the mat flat, cut the rough 
edges until the mat is pared to nearly half its former thick- 
_ ness. It should look like a child's worsted ball, and is the 

BrooZTTuider. samc on both sides. These mats were made during the war 
by the Southern ladies, and if well done are warm and pretty. 

School Dinners. — In preparing them, omit the pies and cakes. There is 
something about the business of studying and teaching that renders the sys- 
tem unable to cope with these delicacies ; put up instead of bread, graham 
gems, Johnny cake, crackers, any kind of meat, canned or fresh fruit, rice pud- 
dings baked in a small basin, baked apples, celery, onions, eggs, pot cheese, 
cornstarch custard, pickles or cheese occasionally,' radishes, once in a while a 
little honey, jelly or marmalade, or even sugar on the bread. I am sure that 
would be variety enough for one term. If your little student has not suffi- 
cient appetite to relish plain lunches without much variation, he is not in a 
proper condition to be studying at all. Hunger is the best sauce. 

How to Detect Poison Ivy. — The poisonous ivy and the innocuous kind 
differ in one particular which is too easy of remembrance to be overlooked 
by any one who is interested enough in the brilliant-hued leaves of autumn 
to care for gathering theiu; The leaves of the former grow in clusters of 
threes, and those of the latter in fives. As somebody has suggested in a 
juvenile story book, every child should be taught to associate the five leaves 
in a cluster with the fingers of the human hand, and given to understand 
that when these numbers agree they can be brought into contact with per- 
fect safety. It may spare our readers no little suffering to bear this point in 
mind during their October rambles in the fields. 

Oil Stoves. — For a kitchen, help in saving work and fuel, they are cer- 
tainly what a friend of ours claims for them. "Mine is a four burner. The 
oven is as large as in an ordinary cooking stove, baking well in any part, 
which cannot be said of all cooking stoves. I have the oven, steamer, boiler, 
and sad iron heater, the cost including these being fifteen dollars. It is no 
more M'ork to keep clean than a lamp, nor is there any more danger of exj^lo- 
sion ; and it is such a saving of work aftd heat. It takes five gallons of oil 
per month, making the cost of fuel sixty-three cents in our family of three. 



1254 MISCELLANEOUS. 

I do all of my work, even the washings. I do not know how servants would 
manage them, but to ladies who do their own work enough can not be said 
in their jiraise. The oil can I use has a pump, so it is very easy to fill tke 
Btove when necessary. Ladies have asked me if it did not smoke. It does 
not at all, if kept properly trimmed and if not turned up too high ; judgement 
has to be used as with every thing else. I like mine so well, that if I could 
not get another, twice the cost of it could not buy it. 

To Prevent and 'Jure Gapes. — If the chicks have been troubled with gapes 
in former years, set the coops away from the poultry yard this year on fresh, 
well drained soil. As a further preventive use the ointment we have before 
recommended, made as follows: One lb. lard, one oz. liquid carbolic acid, 
two oz. coal oil, one oz. spirits camphor. Mix by melting the lard and stir- 
ring all together. Make the application in the evening when the chicks are 
first put out with the hen. With the tip of the finger apply just enough to 
moisten the down on the head about the beak, under the throat, and at the 
vent. Eepeat twice or three times every ten days or two weeks. If the 
gape worm gets in after using these precautions, drop a pinch of air-slaked 
lime in the ]uouth of the chick, or put the affected ones in a box, and a piece 
of open cloth on the box. Place air-slaked lime on the cloth and }ar slightly. 
The chicks will cough and sneeze and dislodge the worms. Be careful not 
to give too large a dose and smother the patients. 

Coal Vase. — This furnishes a neat receptacle for the 
coal-hod, which slides to its place inside, completely out 
of the way and out of sight, and for the poker, shovel 
and tongs, and is withal a very neat article of furniture. 
The box is made of heavy tin, japanned and neatly orna- 
mented. No living room is quite complete without an 
open fire, and no open fire is quite complete without one 
of them. 




A Unique Umbrella Stand. — Go to a plumbing or po-t- 
tery shop and buy a common red tile, such as used for 
drains, about six inches across and three feet long. 
Paint it black, two or three coats if necessary; then get 
a large supply of Japanese scrap pictures. Cover the tde 
pretty thickly with these, and give coats of varnish until 
the flowers and figui'es have the raised appearance some- _^_^^___ 
times seen on china. Then get a large earthen pie plate ~ coai vase. 

or meat platter ; paint it black and cover all but the middle of the dish with 
scrap pictures in the same manner, and varnish. When all is perfectly dry, 
set the tile in the dish. Then get a small bottle of liquid gilding, and with a. 
small camel's hair brush gild the edge of the dish and the top edge of the tile 
The whole stand, when done, will cost about four dollars, and will be very 
unique and beautiful. 

Care of a Carriage. — A carriage should be kept in a dry coach-house, with 
a moderate amount of light, otherwise the colors will be destroved. There 
should be no communication between the stables and the coac^h-liouse. The 
manure heap or pit should also be kept as far away as possible. Ammonia 
cracks varnishes and fades the colors both of painting and lining. In wash- 
ing a carriage, keep out of tiie sun and use plenty of water which apply with 
a large, soft sponge. This, when saturated, sijueeze over the panels, and by 
the flow down of the water the dirt will soften and harmlessly run off, then 
finish with a soft chamois leather and old silk handkerchief. Never use a 
brush, which, in conjunction with grit from the road, acts like sand-paper on 
the varnish, scratching it, and of courao effectually removing all gloss. Never 
allow water to dry itself on carriage as it invariably leaves stains. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1255 



Uses of Charcoal. — Charcoal laid flat while cold on a bum, causes the pain 
to abate immediately ; by leaving it on for an hour the burn seems almost 
healed when the wound is superficial. Tainted meat surrounded with it, 
is sweetened. Strewn over heaps of decomposed pelts, or over dead animals, 
charcoal prevents any unpleasant odor. Foul water is purified by it. It is 
a great disinfectant, and sweetens offensive air if placed in shallow trays 
around apartments. It is so very porous that it absorbs and condenses gases ■ 
rapidly. One cubic inch of fresh charcoal will absorb one hundred inches 
of gaseous ammonia. Charcoal forms an excellent poultice for malignant 
wounds and sores. In cases of what is called proud flesh it is invaluable, 
It gives no disagreeable odor, corrodes no metal, hurts no texture, injures 
no color, is a simple and safe sweetener and disinfectant. A teaspoonful of 
charcoal, in a glass of water, often relieves a sick hea<]ache. It absorbs the 
gases and relieves the distended stomach pressing against the nerves, which 
extend from the stomach to the head. It often relieves ©onstipation, pain or 
heart disease. 

Sun-printing on Fruit. — Monograms, initial letters, or other designs, can 
be printed on such fruit as apples, pears or peaches by the action of the 
sun. with very pretty effect of either a light or dark color. To do this, 
•draw the monogram, letter or design on a piece of writing paper, and paste 
it with mucilage or glue upon the side of the fruit exposed to the sun, just 
before the fruit begins to color, and when the fruit is ripe, and the paper re- 
moved, the design will appear in a lighter or different color to th^ rest of the 
fruit ; as, for instance. If the experiment is tried on a yellow-fleshed peach 
with a red cheek, the design will appear in gold surmounted with red. If 
the opposite effect is intended, take a small oval or circuLir piece of paper, 
and cut out or pierce the letter or design in it, and paste on the fruit, which 
when ripe, will have the design in high color on a yellow or on a light green 
ground of the shape of the paper, and this again will be surrounded by the 
brighter color of the fruit. 

Granular Butler. — These complete directions for making butter were 

given by one who makes gilt-edge butter. The milk is set in a Cooley 
ireamer for twenty-four hours. The cream is churned every other day and 
is kept sweet till the night before churning, when it is set in a tub and'boil- 
ing water poured around the can ; it is stirred rapidly and constantly until it 
reaches 80 degrees, then set in a room where in cold weather it will not fall 
below 62 degi-ees. The cream is churned at from 60 to 62 degrees in sum- 
mer, and 62 to 64 in winter, according to the temperature of the weather, in 
a Batcheller churn ; churning is stopped when the butter is in granules size 
of mustard seed. It stands about five minutes for the butter to rise to the 
top, then the buttermilk is drawn off and two pails of water at about 43 de- 
grees is poured over butter, cover is screwed on and churn revolved twice, 
when water is drawn off and two more pails full poured over it, and churn 
again revolved twice, and so continued until the water runs off perfectly 
clear. It is then let stand five or ten minutes to drain, when it is salted 
with Higgins salt. U^ oz. to the pound. A little salt is sifted over the top of 
butter, then the churn is tipped forward till the salted portion is covered by 
fresh granules, when a little more salt is sifted over the top of it, then the 
churn is tipped a little more at a time, and salt sifted over till the bottom of 
the churn is visible ; then it is tipped backward and salt sifted over the 
granules as before. The cover is then screwed on and the churn revolved 
very aJowly for 20 or 30 times ; it is then let stand f<5r one hour that salt may 
be completely dissolved. The churn is then tipped backward and forward, 
not revolved, till the butter is m aroll, when itis pressed into a 60 lb. ash 
tub. When the tub is brim full, a butter cloth is spread smoothly over it 
and a thin layer of salt sifted over it and the cover fastened down with sta- 
ples, and sent to market as soon as possible. 



1256 MISCELLANEOUS. 




Weather Sti'ips. — It is often desirable 
to close the crevices of doors and windows 
with weather strips. There is now made, 
and kept for sale at all rubber stores, k 
strip which is well represented in the 
engraving, half an inch wide, ready for 
tacking to the edges of door or sash. It 
is made of a narrow rubber sheet, curved 
over to make a cushion, and sewed to a 
thin strip of tin. Through the tin strip 
tacks are driven two or three inches apart, 
fastening the strip to the edge of a door 
or sash, and the elastic cushion effectually shuts out the air, while not inter- 
fering with the use of either door or window. It is sold in lengths of twenty- 
five to fifty feet, coiled as shown in right hand cut. and is sent by mail post- 
paid anywhere at about five and a half cents a foot. Plenty of fresh air is 
necessary to health, but it is well to be able to control the currents and take 
them when and where they are wanted. 

To Soften Sponges. — A sponge when first purchased is frequently hard, 
stiflTand gritty. To soften it and dislodge the particles of sea-sand frbm its 
crevices, having first soaked and squeezed it through several cold waters, put 
the sponge into a clean tin sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and boil it a quar- 
ter of an honr. Then take it out into a bowl of cold w ater, and squeeze it 
well. Wash out the sauce-pan, and return the sponge to it, filling up with 
clean, cold water, and boil it another quarter of an hour. Repeat the pro- 
cess, giving it three boils in fresh water, or more than three if you find it 
still gritty. Take care not to let it boil too long, or it will become tender 
and drop to pieces. 

Extras Thrown in. — To purify a room of unpleasant odors, burn vinegar, 
resin, or sugar ; to make chicken gravy richer, add eggs found in chicken, or. 
if none, yolk of an egg ; soak garden seeds in hot water a few seconds before 
planting ; to prevent cholera in chickens, put assafoetida in water they drink, 
and let them pick at coal ashes ; in using hard water for dish-water, add a 
little milk ; to clean paint, add to two quarts hot water, two table-spoons tur- 
pentine and one of skimmed milk, and only soap enough to make suds, and 
it will clean and give luster; iron rust on marble can generally be removed 
with lemon-juice ; a thin coat of varnish applied to straw-matting makes it 
more durable and adds to its beauty. 

The Cistern. — An abundant supply of good water is a necessity for every 
house, and capacious cisterns are a necessity. The essential requisites are 
good hydraulic hme and clean pure sand. The hydraulic cement becomes 
in a few months as hard as sandstone, but the sand must never exceed two 
parts to one of lime. The cheapest form of cistern is simply a hole dug in 
the around with sides sloping like those of a narrow bottomed tub. The 
water lime mortar is applied directly to these sides, the shape of the sides 
sustaining the mortar until it hardens. The breadth of such a cistern, if 
lar^e, makes it difficult to cover, but this may be done with a plank sup- 
ported by strong scantling, over which should be placed earth to the depth 
of the lowest frost. There must be a hole through the covering, left for 
cleaninir, which should ba curbed, and may admit the pump if the locality 
is ri^dit^ or a pipe may go from cistern into cellar below the frost line, and 
thence to the kitchen. The mortar on the walls should never be less than 
an inch thick, and they should have at least two coats, and three are better. 
As the mortar begins to dry in a very short time after mixing, it is best to 
mix the lime and sand dry, and apply water in small quantities at a time as 



MISCELLANEOUS, 1257 



needed. A more capacious cistern may be made at a greater expense by 
digging a hole with perpendicular walls, and laying walls of brick in 
form of the upper half of a barrel, on which to lay the mortar. This form 
has a smaller top, and is much more easily covered than the other. The 
wall should be laid as well as plastered with water-lime. A filtering at- 
tachment is made by building a small receiving cistern beside the larger 
one, with filtering apparatus between tliem^ or a strong wall may be built 
through tlie middle of the cistern, receiving the water in one division and 
filtering it through into the other. To ascertain contents of cistern, the fol- 
lowing table may be used ; it gives the contents of a cistern for each foot in 
depth. If the diameter at top and bottom differ, strike the average and use 
that as the basis of the estimate : 



5 feet diameter 4.66 barrels. 

6 " " 6.71 

7 " " 9.13 



8 feet diameter 11.93 barrels, 

9 " " 15.10 
10 " " 18.65 



Lime- Water and its Uses. — Place a piece of unslaked lime (size is imma- 
terial, as the water will take up only a certain quantity) in a perfectly clean 
bottle, and fill with cold water ; keep corked in a cellar or cool, dark' place ; 
it is ready for use in a few minutes, and the clear lime-water may be used 
whenever it i»needed. When the water is poured oft', add more; this may 
be done three or four times, after which some new lime must be used as at 
first. A tea-spoon in a cup of milk is a remedy for children's summer com - 
plaint; also for acidity of tlie stomach; when added to milk it has no un" 
pleasant taste. When put into milk that would otherwise curdle wheJJ 
heated, it prevents its curdling, so tiiat it can then be used for puddings an 
pies. A 'Somali quantity of it will prevent the "turning" of cream and milk. 
It also sweetens and purifies bottles which have contained milk. Some add 
a cupful to a sponge of bread to prevent it from souring. 

The Lightning Rod. — When properly put up, the lightning rod is a per- 
fect protection ; but, when not scientifically constructed, is only a source of 
danger. The following are essentials: 1. It must extend several feet into 
the ground so as always to be in contact with moist earth, or into a never-failing 
supply of water; 2, It must be sharp at the top, and, if there are several 
points, all the better ; 3. It must be half as high above the top of the build- 
ing as the distance horizontally to the most remote part of the roof of the 
building; 4. It should be large enough to convey off every discharge with- 
out being melted or broken ; 5. The best material is iron with copper 
below the surface of the ground, as iron rusts away rapidly in the moist 
earth. Copper is the best conductor, but costs more, and is not as stiff to 
withstand the wind. One-half to five-eighths of an inch in diameter is large 
enough. Bright points are not essential, and glass insulator are of no use 
whatever, as when wet they are good conductors, and, and even if they were 
not, a small charge even would leap across the short distance from the rod 
to the iron staple. The best way to fasten the joints, is to weld them, 
which any blacksmith can do. passing the rod through opposite doors of his 
shop, afterwards dragging it home. If the building is so high that it cannot 
be readily put up in one piece, the best joint is made by screwing tiie two 
ends firmly into one nut. The points are easily made by welding several 
smaller wires to the large one, and filing them sharp. A rod will protect a 
space the distance of which is four times the height of the rod. The cheap- 
est and best support is wood. The only point to be considered is to secure 
the rod firmly. The round rods are the best. If there are iron water-pipes 
or steam-pipes in the building, they should all be connected with the light- 
ning rod, or directly with the moist earth, eight or ten feet below the sur*- 
face. 

Canary Birds. — Do not keep in a room that is being painte<l or has odor 
<)# new paint. Do not hang over a stove or grate which contains fire. Do 



1258 MISCELLANEOUS. 



not Bet the cage in a window, and shut it down upon it; the draft is in- 
jurious. Do not wash cage bottom, but scrape clean with a knife, and tiaea 
put on some fresh gravel ; the moisture breeds red mites, and is injurious to 
the bird. Do not keep the birds you intend to breed in the spring togeth» 
during the winter. Do not keep single birds in a room where others are 
breeding, or males and females in mating season in the same room in sepa- 
rate cages, as it is likely to cause mating fever. Feed canary on rape seed, 
but no hemp. For diarrhcea put a rusty piece of iron in dish water, changing 
water not oftenerthan twice a week, and bread boiled in milk. As for asthma 
boil we lin this case, so that w 'len cold it will cut like chee=e ; give freely 
with plenty of vegetables. Moulting is not a disease, yet during this sea- 
son all birds are more or less sick and some suffer severely. They require 
plenty of nourishing food. "Worms, insects, and fruits to those which eat 
them ; and to those which live upon dry seeds, bread dipped in milk, fruit 
and vegetables. The German metallic-enameled cages are the hesi — white 
and green (a combination of) or a light chocolate are the best co/ors; they 
are not painted as are the cages made here in America, but tJie color is 
burnt into the wires. Avoid wooden or brass cages, also conical "/ountains" 
for food and drink ; for the lattter, square or round cups of chin a or glass 
are the best. The perches should be plain, round, unvarnished sticks, and 
no two of the same size. Clean the cage thoroughly every morning. Pre- 
pare fresh, clean bathing and drinking water, ard if sand is used on the 
bottom of ca,^e, clean it (the sand) by boiling in water. Scrape th e perches 
well, and twice a week plunge them in boiling water to kill any tred mites 
that may have lodged there. Give plenty of seed, also green par s of many 
plants, such as poppy, rape, hemp, etc. ; also the seeds of weeds like the 
chickweed, plantain, etc., and the fresh tender leaves of beets, cabbage and 
lettuce. Avoid fruits containing a large percentage of acid, hut givfe occa- 
sionally a hard-boiled egg. Never give them suyar, but all the red pepper 
they will eat. It is the best thing for them. And if your bird feels hoarse 
at any time, put a piece of fat salt pork in the cage and see how the little 
fellow will enjoy it. Give him flax-seed once in a while, and if he ai)pear8 
dumpy occasionally give him a diet of bread and water, with red pepper 
sprinkled in. For lice, cleanliness is the best preventive, but not always 
sure. For cure you have simply to cover your cage at night with a white 
cloth, rise early in the morning, remove the cloth and dip in scalding hot 
water, or dust them at night with insect powder. 

JTydi-oiihobia ondits Symtovis. — The following valuable hints regarding 
the symtonis of that terrible disease, hydrophobia, are from a lecture de- 
livered in St. Paul, by the Rev. E. C. Mitchell, of that city : 

"The period of actual danger begins before it is generally suspected. 
.Hydrophopia is contagious, but it is communicated by actual contact only. 
The saliva of the rabid animal must enter the absorbents of the body of the 
victim. Any living being which has the hydrophobia can communicate it to 
others. Carniverous animals are most lialiC to hydrojihobia. Herbiverous 
amimals, are less dangerous, because they do not generally attack with their 
fceeth. We will consider the disease as it develops in the dog. The dog does 
not at once become furious. The disease is gradual. At first the dog feels 
uneasy and likes to be petted. It is an important point that, from the very 
beginning of the disease, the saliva of the animal is a deadly poison. His 
caresses are as dangerous as his bite. If the saliva of the animal comes in 
contact with any broken place on the skin, death may result to the victim. 
Symptoms of hydrophobia : 1 . In the outward appearance : the dog becomes 
sad dull and retired. He crawls into a corner, or hides. He is uneasy. 
He 'arouses with a start, changes position, and lies down, but cannot rest. 
He is agitated, yet sad. There is a marked change in his disposition. He 
is already dangerous, but he is not disposed to bite. His uneasiness in- 



MISCELLANEOUS. 1259 



creases. He scratches his bed, turns it over, smells about the room, under 
the doors, etc., as though looking for something. He is a victim of hallucin- 
ation . He snaps at imaginary things in the air. As he grows worse, he runs 
furiously against a wall, or fence, and howls. He is not yet quarrelsome to- 
ward the family. A familiar voice will often restore him to his senses. He 
is still afiectionate. The more he suffers, the more he seeks relief in his 
master's caresses. The family, thinking the poor dog is sick, caress him. 
But this saliva is now fatal to human life if it enters the absoi-bents. Only 
in the last stages of the disease does the dog become furious and aggressive. 

2. Symtoms affecting the digestive organs ; Mad dogs do not always avoid 
wat^er ; many will drink water eagerly. In late stages of the disease a con- 
traction of the throat renders them unable to drink. Even then they will 
often try to drink. Some rabid dogs lose their appetite, but others eat as 
usual or even more than usual. Many rabid dogs will tear and swallow 
every thing they can get into their mouths. W* ought to suspect a dog that 
persistently bites at and swallows things unfit for food ; except in case of 
pups, which playfully bite every thing. It is supposed that mad dogs always 
'froth at the mouth.' This is a mistake. They 'froth' during the' paroxysm 
only. But they are equally dangerous at other times. Sometimes the 
lower jaw is paralyzed and hangs open ; the mouth becomes dry, dark red, 
and covered with brown spots ; the eyes are dull and gloomy ; the dog can 
not bite, but his saliva may fall upon persons. The master may think the 
dog has a bone in his throat and may try to extricate it. But this is highly 
dangerous. The dog often vomits blood from wounds in the stomach, made 
by swallowing various sharp articles. The master may incautiously try to 
help the dog, and may be bitten, or may come in contact with the dog's 
saliva, which may enter some cut or scratch on the hand. 3. Sj'mtoms in 
voice: The bark of a mad dog is peculiar. The voice is generally weaker 
than usual, and hoarse and sad. The dog does not fully close his jaws after 
each bark. In 'dumb madness,' the dog loses his voice. 4. Symptoms as to 
nervous sensibility ; A mad-dog is much less sensitive to pain, often even in- 
different to severe burning or cutting. We ought to suspect every dog that 
is unnaturally insensible to pain, especially if he bites himself severely. A 
mad-dog, however quiet, will suddenly grow fierce when he sees another 
dog. The rabid animal is recklessly brave. Chain a suspected dog, and show 
him another dog ; if he becomes furious, kill him. Mad-dogs often run away 
from home, at a late stage of the disease, and go to some lonely place, to die. 
But if chased they will return home. Then there is great danger that the 
unsuspecting family will, from sympathy, receive their lost dog with open 
arms, to learn, too late, that he is rabid. Suspect everj^ such dog, and 
close the doors againsthim ; and, if possible, shoot him. It is important to 
discover hydrophobia during its early stages, before it is too late. Watch 
the habits of animals, especially dogs, and chain them securely when show- 
ing unusual symptoms. 

"Symptoms of confirmed rabies, or madness : The eyes have asad, dull, yet 
fierce expression. Periods of excitement and of stupor alternate. Par- 
oxysms generally follow some exciting cause. Every healthy dog has an in- 
stinctive dread of a rabid dog. Powerful and fierce dogs will flee from very 
small rabid dogs ; they seem to instinctively know their danger. This is a 
good test of a dog's condition. Bring other dogs into his presence, and if 
they all avoid him his case is very suspicious, After the disease has become 
confirmed, the dog runs along at "first, in a natural gait, attacking everything 
he meets, especially dogs. But he becomes exhausted, and runs slowly, and 
staggers. His head and tail hang down. This is the generally recognized 
condition of mad-dogs, but it is only the last stage. The dog falls, and appa- 
rently sleeps. But after rest, is aroused, he will run again, and wull attack. 
But i'f not disturbed he will die from paralysis and asphyxia. 



12G0 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



"The cat sometimes has hydrophobia; and then she is a perfect fury. 
Her feline nature shows itself : She is so quick she is very dangerous. Her 
eyes are wild ; her hair stands up, and her jaws are open. In later stages she 
will crawl under something and die. Whenever a cat grows restless, with- 
out apparent cause, or is sad and stuj^id, biting at her bed, and at other 
things, it is time to put her out of the way. 

"Animals do not go mad any more in Summer than in Winter. There 
are as many mad animals in cold countries as in warm countries. Muzzling 
dogs in Summer is unnecessary ; in fact it is a damage to them, by prevent- 
ing free perspiration through tlie tongue. 

"In human beings less than half of those who are bitten by mad-dqgs 
ever have hydrophobia. But very few, if any, in whom the disease is actu- 
ally developed ever recover. In most cases the disease is manifested within 
two months after the bite, and nearly all the cases have come within three 
months, but there are a few cases recorded which developed much longer 
after the bite. The disease, when developed, generally lasts from one to 
four days. Bites on the unprotected parts of the body are naturally more 
dangerous, as on the covered parts, the clothing may absorb the saliva of the 
rabid animal." 

Home-Made Folding Bath-Tub. — Thisbath-tub is inexpensive, convenient, 
and comfortable for a little bather. The frame is made sometliinglike a cot- 
bed. The legs, one inch and a half square by thirty inches long, are crossed 

and pivoted in the middle on a 
center bar. The side-bars, one 
inch by two inches, and thirty- 
six inches long, are securely fast- 
ened to the top of the legs. 
Smaller bars join the legs near 
the bottom to stiffen the frame. 
A piece of heavy rubber cloth, 
one yard and a quarter long and 
thirty inches wide, has an inch- 
wide hem on each end for a cas- 
ing, and is drawn up to eighteen 
or nineteen inches, with heavy 
braid. This makes the ends of 
the tub. Along the side-bars of 
the frame are tacked, with brass-headed tacks, the sides of the cloth, with 
braid being securely fastened to the ends. A small plait in the cloth ateach 
corner, about an inch from the end, gives a fuller shape to hold the water. 
The tub, when not in use, can be folded and set away out of sight. A pil- 
low put in the tub makes a comfortable and portable crib. From Babyhood. 

A IIa)i.dy Soap-boiler. — For such farmers wives as do not have an out 
house containing a portable boiler or a kettle set in brick or stone, the contri- 
vance illustrated here is a good 
<me. The hole in the rail is just 
wide enough to admit the piece 
on the top of post, but is three 
or four inches long, so that when 
the kettle is swung oS the fire 
there will be play enough to 
lower the kettle to the ground, ^^ 
without wrenching the post. 71ie~ 
Prairie Farmer first suggested' 
this plan. 





MISCELLANEOUS. 



1261 




Hanging Shelves. — The side pieces oi this hanging cupboard are fastened 

to the joints of the cellar. The rest 
_ of the plan is fully explained by the 
cut. It is very convenient for many 
uses and is out of the way of cats, 
rats and mice, and if put up where 
passers are not likely to strike their 
heads against it, is a desirable addi- 
tion to the cellar equipment. It may 
be made any size. The American 
Agrieulturist has credit for its sug- 
gestion . 

Protection for the Layj. — The lap- 
pad described below is very little 
trouble, and will serve to protect one's dress from the soiling which is ijiev- 
itable when holding Baby in the lap 
very long, especially while traveling. 
Take two pieces of muslin or Mar- 
seilles, each one-half yard square; 
put together with a layer of cotton- 
wadding between. Turn in the edges 
all around and baste between the 
pieces an edging of embroidery ; stitch 
twice around on the machine. Quilt 
the pad in diamonds, or any fancy 
pattern. From Babyhood. 

Castle Salve. — Boil ten cents worth 
of tobacco and pint of cider together 
for fifteen minutes in anew tin vessel ; 
strain, and add to liquid fourth pound 
each butter, lard, beeswax and resin 
and wine glass whiskey. Boil slowly 
till liquid is all evaporated. Put away in tin box and use as a salve for all 
burns. It is a perfect cure for the most severe cases and gives quick relief. 
Has been tried often in very severe cases. Apply like any salve. AVhiting 
mixed with water and applied to a burn is also very efficacous. 

Caring Meats. — Always buy granulated saltpeter for use in curing meats. 
It costs no more, and is dissolved more easily. After hams, shoulders, etc. 
are smoked, pack in barrels of common salt. This is clean and a perfect pro- 
tection against insects and vermin, and does not increase the saltness of the 
meat as might be supposed. The salt may be used again and again for this 
purpose, or for making brine for meat. 




lUDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1263 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



It will help those who consult this book to remember that the recipes of 
each department in Cookery, as well as the departments themselves, are ar- 
ranged in the simple order of the alphabet, so far as has been possible, and 
that the "running head"at the top of each page shows, in a general way, the 
subject treated. The "Table of Contents" (page 4) gives the pages of the 
various departments. The following is a full alphabetical index of the recipes 
and subjects treated. All recipes for Cookery appear in the main index; 
those relating to housekeeping and household matters generally will be found 
under the Supplementary Index ; 



Page. 

Acid. 

Strawberry 215 

Strawberry, royal . . . 215 

Almonds. 

Candied 341 

Flowers 638 

Puffs 740 

Salted 339 

Scalloped 740 

Shelled 131 

Souffle 740 

To blanch 64-131 

Tobuy 1031 

To powder 131 

To select 131 

Variety of 309 

Ambrosia 3.37 

Apples 309-312 

And grapes 321 

And quinces 321 

Baked 312 

Baked, with syrup ..313 

Blushed 313 

Cakes 316 

Candied 341 

Canned 154 

Chocolate 317 

Coddled 314 

Compote 317 

Cream 318 

Creamed 314 

Dried .343 

Dumplings 738 



, Page. 
Dumplings, baked .. 7:i8 

Fried 314 

Fried whole 314 

Fried with pork 314 

Fool 318 

Fortress 318 

Frosted .315 

Frozen 335 

Iced 315 

Jellied 313-315 

Marbled 315 

Meringue 320 

Meriugued 315 

Paste 347 

Porridge 319 

Rice 742 

Sago 319 

Snow 319 

Spiced 313 

Steamed 316 

Stewed 316 

Stuffed 313 

Tapioca 320 

Toast 320 

Transparency . 316 

Trifle 320 

Valuable use of 311 

When in season 917 

Apple Sauce 319-.M6 

Cider, baked 319 

Cider, imitation ,. . .319 

Dried 343 

Black 344 



Page. 

Apricots 309 

Frozen 335 

Paste. ..-. .347 

Artichokes 854 

Fried 854 

When in season 917 

Artistic Piping 422 

Description of .. .424, 425 

Asparagus 854 

And eggs 85.') 

Ambushed 8.55 

Fried 855 

Pudding 855 

Rolls 855 

Salad 855 

Sauce 855 

Toast 855 

When in season 917 

Bachelor's Buttons. ..96 

Baking Powder 36 

Proportion of 35 

Bacon. 

Boiled 521 

Breakfast 521 

Broiled 521 

Fried 521 

Pudding 522' 

Roly Poly 622 

Balls. ' 

Butter 744 

Force Meat 837->vl9 

German 849 

Italian 196 



1264 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Pop-corn 141 

Bananas 307,321 

And cream 322 

Baked 322 

Fried 323 

Pie 614 

And apple pie 614 

Bannocks 36 

Basket. 

Macaroon 110 

Orange lU 

Bass. 

Boiled 171 

When in season 917 

Bavarian Cream. 

Almond 115 

Blackberry 116 

Chocolate 115 

Coffee 110 

Lemon 115 

Orange 115 

Peach 116 

Pear 116 

Pine-apple 116 

Pistachio 115 

Quantity of ... 110 

Kaspberry 116 

Strawberry 116 

Vanilla 115 

Beans. 

Boston Baked 856 

Butter 85(3 

Canned 158 

Castle 856 

French Style 856 

In brine 877 

Lima, dry 856 

Patties 871 

Shelled 856 

String 856 

String, dried. . .. 878, 880 

When in season 917 

Bed of Vegetables. ..468 
Beef. 

A la mode 472 

Boiled 463 

Boiled corned 482 

Bouilli 404 

Braised 464 

Braised, brisket of.. 404 

Brai ed, fillet of 465 

Braised, roll of . . .465 

Cannelon 469 

Collared 483 

CoUops 471 

Curried 465 

Fillet of 473 

Fricaudeau of 475 

.Frizzled with eggs .. 484 

In jelly 475 

Larded, fillet of 474 

Loaf ■.. 469,532 

Molded 459 

Olives 532 

Palates 492 

. Potted 465 

Pot-roast of 462, 476 

" Pounded 465 

Pressed . .^. 465 

Ragoutof .'. 476 

Roast 462,465,468 

Roast, rump 467 

Roast, German 467 

Roast, French 467 



Page. 
Roast, with pudding 468 

Rolled 468 

Stew 470 

Stewed with tomat's 471 
Stuffed brisket of .. ..484 

Stuffed spiced 1039 

When in season 917 

Yankee Dried 484 

Beefsteak. 

Broiled 476 

Fried 477 

Hamburg 479 

Hidden 479 

Italian 509 

Marinade for 477 

Oyster 480 

Pie 481 

Pudding 481 

Smothered in onions 478 

Stuffed 480 

To serve 477, 478 

With oysters 478 

Beets. 

Baked 857 

Greens 857 

Marbled 857 

Pickled 857 

Pudding 857 

Berriks. 

Candied 342 

Canned 151 

Frosted 334 

Bills of Fare. 
Christmas Dinner .. .906 

For Spring 880-893 

For Summer 893-899 

For Fall 899-905 

For Winter.. 882-886 

905,906 

Fruits in 882 

How to use 881 

New Year's Dinner .882 
New Year's lunch for 

callers 907 

Refreshments for 

twenty 907 

Refreshments for 

one hundred 907 

Refreshments for 
one hundred and 

seventy-five 907 

Thanksgiving Din- 
ner 904 

Birds. 

Fire for 351 

How to pluck 350 

Time to roast 351 

To broil .350 

To fry 352 

To lard 459 

To roast 351 

Wild flavor of 352 

Biscuit 36 

Baking Powder S5 

Buttermilk 37 

Cream 37 

Fairv 37 

Hard tea 37 

High 37 

Maple 37 

Potato 38 

Rye.., 38 

Soda 35,38 

Spoon 38 



Page, 

Stale 35 

Tea 38 

To bake 34 

To glaze 34 

To make 34 

Unleavened 38 

Blanc-Mange m 

chocolate 112 

Farina 113 

Fruit 751 

Green ....112 

Pink 112 

Plain 112 

Raspberry 113 

Rice 113 

Sago 113 

Vanilla 113 

Yellow 112 

Blackberries 322 

Canned 152 

Juried 344,345 

Spiced . 667 

When in s ason 917 

B I oater, potted 271 

Blue Fish, season for 917 
Blueberries. 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 334 

Bouillon. 

Plain 830 

Philadelphia 830 

True .t,830 

Brains. 

And tongue. 540 

Calf's 539 

Fritters 539 

Scrambled 539 

Stewed 539 

To single blanch. . . 1048 
To double blanch.. 1048 

Brant, season for 917 

Brawn 518,1045 

Bream, season for ... . 917 

Broccoli 857 

When in season 917 

Broma 210 

Brussels Sprouts. 857, 860 

Bread 21 

Apple 21 

And flour 1005 

Beau 21 

Box 17 

Cooler 20 

Coffee 39 

Crumbs, todry 299 

Double 299 

Double-egg 299 

Easter ... 39 

Fire for 17 

Flour for 8 

For oven 992 

Forefathers' ... 31 

Borders 979 

Good, to make 11 

Hop Yeast 22 

In summer 26 

In winter 26 

Knife 17 

Making made easy ,. .26 

Measures for 11 

Oven for 14 

Pan for 17 

Poor Man's 22 

Proof box for . 14 



INDEX TO COOKEBY BECIPES. 



1265 



Page. 

Quick 27 

Raised once 23 

Raised twice 24 

Raised three times.. .25 

Ready for oven 13 

Rye 33 

Rye and Indian 32 

Rye with soda 32 

Salt Rising 28 

Scotch 98 

Set to rise 12 

Single '...299 

Sour 13 

Southern Egg 50 

Sweet Potato 29 

To bake 14 

To cool 16 

To knead 11 

To mix 11 

To renew 995 

Tosalt 13 

To test 15 

Vienna 33 

With buttermilk 21 

With compressed 

yeast 26 

With potatoes 23 

With potato sponge ..22 
When hard 16 

Beown Bread 30 

Boston 29 

Eastern 29 

Steamed 19 

Tin form for 29 

With baking powder .30 
With mush 30 

Buns 39 

Currant 39 

Hot Cross .39 

Bubble and Squeak.. 571 

Butter. 

Apple 731 

Anchovy 1053 

Clarified 64,460 

Drawn 179 

Egg 732 

For decorating 980 

French 612 

Kennebec 796 

Lemon 63 

Lobster 179, 

Maitre d'hotel 557 

Orange 635 

Paris 796 

Parsley 179 

Peach 732 

Pie plant 434 

Plum 732 

Pumpkin 732 

Quince 732 

(iuince and apple. ..732 

Scotch 1.32 

Tomato 733 

Buttermilk, Iced 215 

Cabbage. 

Boiled ..858 

Creamed 858 

Delicate 858 

Fried 858 

Heidelberg 859 

Pudding 859 

Royal 858 

Southern 859 

Spiced 859 



Page. 

StufTed 859 

When in season 917 

Cacao 208 

Making 209 

Nibs 210 

Shells 210 

Cafe au lait ...213 

Fiothed 213 

Cake. 

Almond 69 

Angel 70 

Apple 39,70 

Klack 71 

Boston 612 

Box 16 

Breakfast 39 

Bread 71 

Bride's 71 

Buckeye . . 72 

Butter for 62 

Caramel 72 

Carolina 72 

Charlotte Cachee. ... 72 

Cheap 73 

Chocolate 64, 73 

Chocolate marble 73 

Cincinnati 73 

Cinnamon 40 

Citron 71, 7.3,82 

Cocoanut 69,73 

Creaming 735 

Currants for 65 

Delicate 64, 74 

Eggless 74 

Eggs for C2 

Election 74 

Everlasting 74 

Feather 75 

Fig 75 

Fig, choice 75 

Pig, marbled ... . -. . . . 75 

Fruit, excellent 76 

Fruit, German 76 

Fruit, jam 76 

Fruit, loaf 75 

Fruit, pan for 66 

Fruit, pepper 76 

Fruit, pound 77 

Fruit, Scotch 77 

Groom's 77 

Hard Money 77 

Hayes 77 

Hickory nut. . . .69, 77, 78 

Huckleberry 78 

Lady's 78 

Lady's Yellow 78 

Lemon 78 

Loaf 78 

Loaf,French 78 

Loaf, old fashioned . . 78 

Making 61 

Marble 79 

Marble, economical.. 64 

Milk for 62 

Mold for 68 

One Egg 79 

Orange 79 

Orange butter for 636 

Oven for 67 

Paddle for 61 

Paper cap for 66 

Peanut 80 

Plum 79 

Poor man's 80 



Page. 

Pound, Citron 80 

Pound, pyramid 80 

Pound, white 80 

Raisins for. 65 

Rice ...80 

Seed 71 

Snow 80 

Spice 81 

Sponge 68,81 

Sponge, lemon 81 

Sponge, pan> 81 

Sponge, Phila 82 

Sponge, white 64,82 

Temperance 65 

Ten-minnte 82 

Tilden 82 

Tin-wedding 82 

To beat eggs for 61 

To beat 62 

To mix 62 

To mix fruit 65 

To test 68 

Watermelon 82 

Whereto keep 68 

White 82 

White perfection 83 

Whipped Cream 83 

Yeast, German 83 

Yule 83 

Zephyr 83 

Zufolos 84 

Cakes, Layer. 

Almond 85 

Almond Cream 85 

Apple 86 

Apple, German 85 

Banana 85 

Caramel 87 

Chocolate 87 

Chocolate, delicious ..87 

Chocolate filling 87 

Chocolate German. ..87 
Chocolate Eclairs 88 

Cocoanut 88, 95 

Cream 88 

Cream cocoanut 94 

Cream, French 88 

Cream, golden 89 

Cream, peach 89 

Cream rose 94 

Cream sponge 94 

Cream, strawberry.. .89 

Cream, Vienna, 89 

Cream, whipped 89 

Dominoes 89 

Eggless jelly 90 

Fig 90 

Filling for 84 

Hard Times 90 

Hickory Nut 90 

Ice Cream 91 

Jelly Roll 91 

Lemon 91 

Lemon Filling for 92 

Met opolitan 92 

Minnehaha 92 

Neapolitau 93 

Orange 93 

O range custard 93 

Ribbon 94 

Snow 94 

Tea 40 

Tins 84 

Thanksgiving 94 



1266 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

To bake 84 

To build 84 

Tocut 84 

Vanity 9) 

Velvet 95 

With maple frosting 86 
White Fruit 95 

• White Mountain 95 

Xenophon 96 

Cakes. 

Ginger 104 

Ginger drop 105 

Ginger tea 105 

Hickory Nut 117 

Jew 98 

Candy 130 

Hoarhound 132 

Lemon 132 

Maple 133 

Molasses 13;^ 

Peanut 133 

Rock 130 

Syrup for 130 

Stick 130 

Tongs 132 

To form 131 

To pull 131 

Tutti Frutti. 236 

Utensils for 129 

Canned. 

Apples 154 

Beiries 151 

Beans 158 

Blackberries 152 

Cherries 152,156 

Corn 158 

Corn and tomatoes .. 158 

Crab apples.. 152 

Currants 152 

Damsons 156 

Gooseberries 152, 156 

Grapes 153,155 

. Grapes, green 153 

Pe ches 152,153 

Peaches, cold 154 

Peaches, steamed . . .154 
Peaches, with vin- 
egar 153 

Pear.s 152, 151 

Pease l-^S 

Pieplant 155 

Pieplant, cold 155 

Pine-apple 155 

Plums 155 

Pumpkin 159 

Quinces 155 

Strawberries 156 

.String beans 159 

Succotash 159 

Tomatoes 159 

Watermelons 157 

Cans. 

Filler for 144 

Glass 145 

Glass, to prepare — 146 

How to fill 146 

Opening 150 

Putty for 145 

Rubber rings for 145, 

147,150 

Self-sealers 145 

Stoneware 145 

Tin 145, 149 

To seal 147 



Page. 
To keep 147 

Cannelons 636 

Canning 14:-! 

Berries. 148 

Cold process of 14S 

Different fruits 149 

Fruit for 143 

For pies 144 

How done 143 

Quantity of fruit — 148 
Quantity made in . . .150 

Sugar for 144 

Syrup for 149, 150 

Table for 151 

Utensils for 144 

Vegetables 157 

Cantons de Rouen — 711 

Caramels. 

Chocolate 138 

Cocoanut 138 

Cakrots. 

Compote 860 

Glazed 800 

Stewed 860 

Warmed over 860 

When iu teasou 917 

CATSUPS. 

Barberry • 164 

Cherry 161 

Cucumber 16-1 

Currant 165 

Elderberry 165 

Fruit for 165 

Gooseberry 165 

Grape 165 

Lemou 165 

Liver 165 

Mold on 160 

Oyster 166 

Pepper 166 

Plum 166 

Rule for 16L 

Spatula for 160 

Strainer for 16i 

To make 160 

Tomato 166,167 

Walnut 167 

Caul flower. 

Baked 861 

Boiled 860 

Scalloped 861 

Salad 861 

When in season . ...917 
With mushrooms — 861 

Celery. 

And parsley 181 

Fringed 796 

Frozen 773 

Season for 917 

Stewed 861 

Cerealine 18 

Ch vRLOTTE. 

Apple 113 

Strawberry 114 

Charlotte-russe.107, 

108,114 

Fancy form for 108 

Filling for 107 

Mold for 107 

Cheese , 182 

Apple 7."1 

American 183 

Cakes 186,6.37 

Course 185 



Page. 

Cottage 191 

Cru.sts 186 

Cream 191 

Diablotins 186 

Ennlish 18.3 

Fingers 187 

Foudu 187 

Fritters. 188 

Omelet 188 

Potato 192 

Pounded 192 

Pudding 188 

Puffs 188 

Quality of 18;} 

Ramakins 193 

Relis 1 188 

Sandwiches 189 

Souffle ., 189 

Soup f ..189 

Stews 189 

Toasted 192 

Toasted, with eggs . .193 

To keep 184 

To ripen 184 

To serve 184,1^5 

To toast 195 

Vol-au-vents 195 

With celery 190 

With crackers 190 

With eggs 190 

With Macaroni 191 

Cherries .307, 322 

Canned 152, 156, 

Candied 342 

Dried ai4 

Frosted 333 

P>ozen ; ... 331 

Ground, sweet 307 

Paste :M8 

Sauce 323 

Tapioca 347 

When in season 427 

CjlESTNUTS. 

Season for 917 

Stewed 338 

Chicken. 

And macaroni 815 

Baked 696 

Baked., Buckeye. . 696 
Baked with parsnips 696 

Boiled 697, 714 

Braised — 464 

Breaded 697 

Broiled 698 

Creoled 699 

Chili colorad 711 

Croquettes 794 

Curried 704 

Cutlets 704 

Cutlets, French.. . 705 

Cutlets, larded 705 

Essence 705 

Fillets 705 

Fillet", breaded 705 

Fillets, braised 705 

Fillets, fried 705 

Fricassee 706 

Fried spring 698 

Fried whole 699 

Gems 707 

Inielly..; 699 

Jellied 69!) 

Jellied, plain 699 

Larded 702 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1267 



Page. 
Livers with bacon.. 711 

Masked 700 

Patties 706 

Pie 707 

Pickled 701 

Pot-pie 708 

Potted 701 

Pres-ed 701 

J'udding 709 

Quenelles 710 

Roast 701 

Roast, French 702 

Roast, pot 365 

Scalloped 702 

Smothered 720 

Steamed 70.i 

Stewed 703 

To bone 1050 

To cut up 1049 

Truffled 704 

Trussed 1050 

Turnovers 710 

Vanity 710 

With asparagus 711 

With oysters 702, 707 

With potatoes 707 

With rice 698, 714 

Chocolate. 

Making 209 

Meringued 210 

Vienna 211 

Whipped 211 

Whipped cream 211 

When in season 917 

Chub, season for 917 

Cider 216 

Bottled 216 

Mulled 216 

Citron, candied 342 

Cl,A.M. 

Boiled 799,800 

Chowder 798 

Fried 798 

Pie 799 

Scalloped 808 

Stew 799 

When in season 917 

COBBLKR. 

Apple 637 

Berry 637 

Cherry 637 

Peach 637 

Plum 637 

COCOANUT 309,339 

Cones 188 

Patties 133 

PuflFs ..339 

To dry 339 

To prepare 69,132 

Cod. 

Boiled 271 

Sounds 273 

Sounds with force- 
meat 272 

Cod Fish. 

A la mode 273 

And eggs 273 

Balls 155 

Cream 274 

Fritters 273 

Mountain 274 

Masked 274 

Scalloped 273 

Clove of Garlic 64S 



Page. 
Coffee. 

Army 210 

Black 211 

Clear 211 

Crust 212 

Filtered 202 

Filtered, home made 20M 
For one hundred.. ..213 

For twenty 214 

Iced.... 204,212 

Iced crust 212 

Imperial 212 

Making 199,200,201 

Steamed 212 

Strainer 202 

Syrup 214,999 

To buy 197 

To grind 199 

To heat 201 

To roast 198 

Vienna 212 

Warmed over 212 

Wine 213 

White 213 

Whipped cream 213 

Coffee Pot, to clean 

202,1,000 

Cold Beef. 

Au Gratin 575 

A la Jardiniere .576 

Broiled 571 

Fricassee 573 

Fritters 573 

Ha,shed 572,57:5 

Loaf 574 

Masked 572, 577 

Olives 574 

Patties 574 

Pot-pie 575 

Pudding 575 

RoUages 575 

Soused 572 

Stewed 573 

With macaroni 576 

With mushroom 

sauce 572 

With oysters 572,576 

With tomatoes 576 

Cold Meat. 

And bread 570 

And potato puffs 570 

•Batter 565 

Fried 566 

Fried corned 566 

Molded 566 

Omelet 567 

Ovals 567 

Pie 567 

Pudding 566 

Ragout of 570 

Roll 569 

Spiced on toast 575 

Turnovers 570 

With barley 571 

With eggs, 571 

Wonders .. 570 

Coloring fob Cakes, 
Etc. 

Blue 411 

Brown 411 

Caramel 179, 411 

Cochineal 142 

Green 411 

Parsley 180 



Page. 

Pink 411 

Red 411 

Spinach 180 

jJOMPOTES 311 

Apple 317 

Apricot 321 

Bird 374 

Cherry 822 

Damson 321 

Gooseberry 323 

Green-gage. 323 

Orange 325 

Peach 321 

Pear :x .S30 

Pear, with eggs 330 

Quince &31 

Red 321 

Syrup 311 

White 321 

Confectionery 129 

Consomme 178,865 

Cookies. 

Chocolate 96 

Cream 97 

Eggless 97 

Fruit 97 

Ginger 104 

Graham 97 

Hickory Nut 97 

North German 

Christmas 97 

Nutmeg 97 

Oven for 96 

Seed 96-97 

Scotch 98 

Who tleberry 98 

Cooks Time-table.. 913-914 

Cordial. 

Curry 216 

Raspberry 216 

Corn. 
And Tomatoes 

canned 158 

Boiled 861 

Canned 158 

Chowder 834 

Doiley 862 

Dodgers 41 

Dried 862,878 

Dried, grated 293 

Dried, new process. .878 

Fried 862 

Hulled 863,879 

In Brine 879 

Meal 19 

Omelet....; i'62 

Pie 862 

Pones 43 

Steamed 861 

Stewed 862 

When in season 917 

Corn Bread 18, 30, 31 

Boston 30 

Boiled 30 

Fire for 19 

Plain 31 

Steamed 30,31 

Crackers. 

Egg 40 

French 40 

Crabs. 

Boiled 800 

Deviled 800 

Pried 799 



1268 



INDEX TO COOKEBY RECIPES. 



Page. I 

To prepare 1052 

When in season 917 i 

Crayfish potted 279 

CRACKNELS 4* ' 

Cream 40 

Cranberries. 
Season for 917 

Cream. 

Almond 202 

Chocolate 317 

Cofiee 118 

Double 109, 3M 

Double, true 384 

For whipping 109 

Gelatine for 106 

Italian 116 

Measurement of 110 

Of the Cream 38-1 

Raspberry 117 

Rock 117 

Ruby 117 

Single 109,384 

Substitute for 201 

Tapioca 118 

Tea 118 

To cook 384 

To make 106 

Turret 118 

Whipped 119 

Cream Biscuits 401 

Custard 401 

Fruit 402-403 

Fruit cases for 401 

Italian 402 

Nut .403 

Paper cases for 401 

Peach 402 

Strawberry 403 

• Vanilla 403 

Vanilla with syrup.. 403 

Cream Candy. 

Almond 136 

Chocolate 137 

Chocolate, maple 138 

Cocoa-nut 137 

Everton 135 

Fig 137 

French 135 

French, uncooked... 137 

Iliokory-nut 137 

Lemon 137 

Ribbon 136 

Vanilla almond 136 

Walnut 136 

Cream Tartar. 

Purity of 86 

Quantity of 35 

Cresents 98 

Crullers 100 

Fat for.... 99 

Whentoeat ...100 

Croquettes. 

Bread 300 

Chicken 300-302 

Chicken with brains,301 
Chicken with sweet- 
breads 301 

Crab 302 

Cream 302 

Ham 301 

Hominy 302 

Lobster 303 

Meat 303 

Meat, fresh 303 



Page. 

Mutton 301,305 

Ovster 303 

Parsnip 304 

Potato 304 

Rice 304 

Rice ball 305 

Salsify 305 

To bread 299 

To fry 299 

To make 298 

To serve ■. 300 

To shape 288 

Triple 301 

Veal 301 

Venison 305 

With Truffles ..301 

Without breading... 200 

Croutons. 

For Entrees 850 

For Soup 849 

For Vegetables 850 

Crumpets. 

EngU h 40 

Hominy 41 

Rice 41 

Royal 41 

Crusts, to bake 604 

Cucumbers 863 

Fried 863 

Sewed 863 

With Onions 863 

Season for 917 

Cup. 

Currant 217 

Fruit 217 

Currants 308, 323 

Candied 342 

Canned 152 

Dried 341-345 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 335 

Spiced 667 

Custard. 

Apple 119 

Raked 119 

Boiled 106,107,119 

Caramel 119 

Caramel, boiled 120 

Chantilly 429 

Chocolate 120 

Coffee 120 

Corn Meal 12l) 

Cup 121 

Curdled 110 

Flavor for 107 

Fruit 121 

Gelatine 121 

Kettle 107 

Lemon ■ .. .121 

Orange 626 

Rule for 106 

Snow-ball 121 

Steamer for 110 

To bake 106 

To make 106 

To steam 107 

Cutlets, frills for 979 

Crystallization 422 

Damsons, season for.. .917 
Canned 156 

Dandklions 863 

Dessert Jellies. 

'J"o make 444 

To mold ,444 



Page, 
To serve 445 

Diamond Top 616 

Dinner. 

Boiled 829,875 

New England 484 

Doughnuts 99 

Corn Meal 101 

Cream 101 

Dough for 100 

Fatfor 99-100 

French.... 101 

Oily Koeks 102 

Raised 101 

Sugar for 100 

Doves, season for 917 

Drinks 197 

Harvest 217 

Jelly 217 

Lemon 217 

Oatmeal 217 

Dressing. 

Bacon 775 

Bacon, with Onions. 775 

Bavarian' 775 

Bohemian 775 

Bouillon 775 

Bouillon, Jellied. . . 776 

Bread 3.56' 

Cream 776,796 

Cream, cold 776 

Cream, sour 776 

Creole 777 

Eggless 776-777 

English 777 

Foam 779 

French 777 

Fruit 356 

Italian 777 

Lactiola 777 

Mayonnaise 777 

Mayonnaise, green.. 778 
Mayonnaise, red . . .778 

Minnehaha 778 

Onion 356 

Orange 778 

Orange, jellied 778 

Philadelphia 782 

Pickle 577 

Potato 356,779 

Raspberry 778 

Raspberry, jellied . . .779 

Rice 714 

Rye Beach 776 

Sandwich .587 

Sardine 778 " 

Swenish 779 

Swiss 779 

Drippings, clarified.. .587 

Drops. 

Bergamot 134 

Centennial 134 

Chocolate 134 

Cinnamon 134 

Clove 134 

Cocoanut 134 

Coffee 234 

Damson 134 

Fruit 135 

Gin?er 134 

Lemon 134, 135 

Orange 135 

Orgeat 135 

Peppermint 135 

Strawberry 135 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES 



Page. 

Duck, tame. 

Roast 713 

Stewed 713 

. With cabbage 713 

\ With carrots 713 

With pease 713 

Duck, wild. 

• Baked 354 

Boiled 354 

Broiled 354 

, Fried 371 

. Hashed 3,^4 

Mock .480 

Ragout of 354 

Roast 355, 358 

Salmi of ..35G 

Stewed 355 

Stewed with pease.. 355 

Stewed with rice 356 

When in season 918 

Dumplings for Dessert. 

Apple, baked 738 

Apple, boiled 738 

Buckeye 739 

Lemon 739 

Peach 739 

Raspberry 740 

PlJMPLiNGS for Meat, etc. 

Buckeye 850 

Marrow 850 

Quick 850 

Suet 850 

Sussex 860 

Swedish 850 

Eei.s. 

Fried 274 

To cook 250 

Egg. 

Balls 237 

Charlotte 237 

Charlotte, sweet . . . .237 

Fritters 237 

Gems .238 

Mayonnaise 238 

Puree . 238 

Pyramids 979 

Sandwiches 238 

Soup 238 

Terrace ,239 

Vol-au-Vent 234 

Eggs 225 

Baked 228 

Baked with ham . . ..228 

Boiled 229 

Boiled, to serve 229 

Breaded 239 

Broiled 230 

Buttered 230 

Creamed 236 

Curried 230 

D viled 231 

Flavor of 225-226 

Force-meat 231 

French 231 

Fricassed 231 

Fried 231 

Holland 232 

Italian 232 

Mumbled 235 

Nugget 232 

Onion 233 

Pickled 233 

Plover's 233 

Poached 233 



Page. 

Quality of 226 

Savory 235 

Scalloped 234 

Scrambled 235 

Shirred 236 

Shredded 236 

Spanish 234 

Stuffed 236 

Time to cook 229 

To keep 245 

To mix 226 

To test 226 

With Cheese ^.ZiO 

With Cucumbers... 238 
With Mushrooms . . .239 

With Pease ,239 

With Syrup 240 

With Tomatoes 240 

With Vinegar 240 

Whites of 69 

Yolks of 69 

Egg-plant. 

Baked 864 

Fried 864 

In oakes 864 

Elderberries. 

Spiced 668 

When in season 918 

Endive, stewed 861 

English bread and 
butter ,195 

Fanchonf.ttes 638 

Figs, to freshen 341 

Fish. 
Au court-bouillon.. .253 

Au gratin 270, 288 

Baked 251 

Balls • 251 

Balls, chopped 264 

Boiled 252 

Boiled, to serve 254 

Broiled 254 

Broiled, to serve 255 

Cake 264 

Cake, white 264 

Cake, yellow 265 

Canapes 269 

Chowder 265 

Cod 249 

Collared 256 

Croquettes 266 

Crimped 256 

Curried 256 

Deviled 257 

Dressing 266 

Dried 257 

For Invalids 249 

Fresh 246 

Fresh Water 251 

French stew of 263 

Fricassed 257 

Fricasse of Cod 258 

Fried 258 

Fritters 267 

Garnishes for 249, 976 

In Jelly 270 

In season 246 

Knife and fork 286 

Marinade 253 

Pan, fried 277 

Patties 568 

Pickled 259 

Pies 267 

Potted 260 



; __^ 1269 

Page. 

Pudding 267 

Rissoles 268 

Salad 268 

Salt water 251 

Salted 261 

Sandwiches 269 

Sauces for 980 

Scaloped 261 

Souffle 269 

Soup 269-270 

'Spiced 287 

Steamed 262 

Stewed 262 

Straws 270 

Toast 270 

To bake 248, 2;52 

To boil 24S 

To bone 248 

To broil ,248,225 

To clean ..247 

To cook 248, 2-50 

To fry 248 

To freshen 247 

To marinade 254 

To shape. 248 

To steam 248 

To serve 249-250 

To use cold 247 

To wash 247 

Trivet for 251 

Turbans ...270 

Utensils 250 

Warmed over 288 

Weter for 252 

With cheese 270 

With olives 271 

With rice 271 

White, baked ....286-287 
White, boiled.... 272, 287 
White, creamed 288 

Flavor. 

Apple 443 

Apricot 443 

Cherry 443 

Currant 443 

Grape 443 

Nectarine 443 

Orange 443 

Plum 443 

Raspberry 443 

Strawberry 443 

Float. 

Orange 123,326 

Peach 327 

Pear 327 

Quince 327 

Raspberry 332 

Flour 7-8 

Always si ft 96 

Brown-bread 18 

Browned 557 

Whole wheat 18 

Force-meat 561 

Almond 551 

Balls 6.54 

Bread and Onion 553 

Chestnut 552 

Chicken 5.53 

Fish 553 

French 552 

Game ..' 552 

Ham 552 

Liver 515 

Lobster 552 



1270 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Mushroom 552 

Oyster 553 

Potato 516 

Querelles of 551 

Sage aud onion. 554 

Sausage 553 

Suet 553 

Sweet-breiid .553 

Veal 553 

Fowl. 

Braised 712 

Deviled 712 

Grilled 712 

Molded 459 

French Brioche 52 

French Loaf 12 

Pan for 13 

Fricatelli 515 

Fritters 289 

Apple 291 

Apricot 292 

Bananas 292 

Batter for 289 

Berry 292 

Brain 292 

Cake 292 

Celery 292 

Clam 293 

Cracker dust in 289 

Corn 293 

Corn, dried 293 

Corn meal 293 

Cream 293 

Currant ... 294 

Doily .294 

j;gg-plant 590 

Fat for 290 

Fruit 29i) 

Grape 294 

Hominy 294 

Italian 294 

Lemon 294 

Lobs er 294 

• Mincemeat 295 

Nutmeg 295 

Orange 292. 295 

Oyster 295 

Parsnip 295 

Peach 295 

Pine-apple 290 

Pork 296 

Potato 2% 

Queen 296 

Rice 296 

Rye 2S)7 

Sandwich 297 

Size of 291 

Snow 297 

Sugar in 289 

To drain 290 

To keep hot 291 

To serve 291 

Walnut 297 

Frogs 554 

Au court bouillon. ...555 

Fricasseed 554 

Fried 555 

Saddles 555 

Salad 555 

Fbuit. 

Albuminous 309 

A necessity 309 

Arrangement of 310 

Balls 336 



Page. 

Candied 340 

Cases 406 

Center piece 309, .310 

Charlotte. 738 

Cheese 347 

Closet 147, 663 

Creams 311 

Dried 339 

Dried in cakes 347 

Evaporator 340 

Florida grape 324 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 334 

Glazed 335 

Iced .335 

In jelly 337 

Juices ;«6, 1004 

Knife. 312 

Macedoine of 335, 336 

Motto .306 

Pastes 347 

Salad 336 

Surprise 401 

Toast 337 

To bake 311 

Todrv 340 

To mold 811 

To preserve 1078 

To serve 312 

Fuel, value of . . .920,921 

Game. 

Broiling &50 

Dark-meated .349 

Garnishes for 977 

Hashed .353 

Larding 352 

Potted 374 

Pureeof 374 

Sauces for 981 

Serving 354 

To dress 850 

To frv S.52 

To keep 349, 350 

To pick 350 

To preserve 1024 

To roast 351 

To singe 350 

To steam &52 

To wash 350 

Wild flavor of 352 

White-meated 349 

Garnishes 975 

Fan 980 

Fancy 980 

For Creams 975 

For Fish 976 

For Game 977 

For Meats 976 

For Poultry 977 

For Salads 978 

For Vegetables 978 

Leaves for 310 

Of root flowers 980 

Gelatine 110 

Gems. 

Corn 41 

Graham 41 

Oatmeal. 41 

Sweet Milk 41 

Wheaten 41 

Ginger-brkad 102-103 

Alum 103 

Fairv 103 

Loaf 103 



Page. 

Spiced 104 

Sponge 104 

Soft 104 

T ) make 102 

To keep 102 

AVhite 104 

Glaze 547 

Brush 558 

Kettle 558 

Roll 16 

Golden Buck 195 

Good Cooking 564 

Goose. 

Larded wild .358 

Roast wild 3.56 

Smoked wild 3.58 

When in season . . . .918 

Gooseberry 308 

Canned 152, 1.56 

Dried 345 

Fool 323 

Spiced 668 

Trifle 324 

When in season 918 

Graham Bread: 18,31, 32 

Fire for 19 

Quick. 32 

Steamed 32 

Wiih baking powder.. 32 
With soda : 32 

Grapes 324 

• audied 342 

Canned 153, 155 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 335 

.Jellied 324 

Spiced 668 

When in season 918 

GBEEN-gages 
Dried 345 

Gravy 555 

Beef 559 

Beef, rich 559 

Brown 5.59 

Brown, cheap 559 

Brown, rich 559 

Carrot. . .560 

Economical 560 

Economy of 5,55, 556 

(iiblet 560 

Herb 561 

Heidelberg 561 

Horse-radish 561 

Jugged 561 

Liver 560 

Maitre d'hotel 562 

Milk 562 

Onion 552 

Orange 562 

Piquant , 562 

Sage 563 

Seasoning for 564 

Sour cream 365 

To make ,5.55,556 

Veal 563 

Venison 568 

Withontmeat 560 

Griddle-Cakes. 

Batter S77 

Batter, raised 377 

Bread 377 

Bread, raised 378 

Bucket for 996 

Buckwheat 378, :i79 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1271 



Page. 

Cerealine 379 

Clam .380 

Corn 377,380,385 

Corn, raised 380 

Eggs for 376 

Farina 380 

Flannel 380 

French .381 

French, plain 381 

Fruit 381 

Glut n 281 

Graham 381 

Green corn ..382 

Hominy 382 

Lifter for 377 

Milkfor 377 

Oatmeal 382 

Potato 382 

Potato, grated 382 

Powders for 377 

Rice 382,383 

Rye 382 

Squash 383 

Tomato 377 

To turn 376 

Griddle. 

Soap-stone 376 

Stoue 376 

To care for 376 

To grease 376 

Grouse. 

Br ised 358 

Fried 371 

Pie 359 

Roast 358 

Salad' 359 

Sandwiches 359 

GUAVA 307 

Haddock. 

Boiled 275 

Creamed' 275 

When in season. . ..918 

Halibut. 

Baked 275 

Creoled 275 

When in season 918 

Ham, 

Balls 581 

Baked ..522 

Boiled 523 

Boned 524 

Broiled 524 

Cake 526 

Fried with eggs 525 

Frizzled 525 

Garnished 524 

Grated 582 

Omelet 581 

Pie 582 

Potted .525 

Puffs 526, 582 

Relish 582 

Roly-poly 522 

Sandwiches 582 

Scalloped 582 

Soup 582 

Squares . 526 

Steamed 526 

Stuff"ed 522^582 

To garnish 979 

With jelly 582 

With vinegar 583 

Hare. 
Jugged 360 



Page. 

Roast 300 

Hash 504 

American 564 

Baked 563 

Baked, Mutton 578 

Beef 573 

Boston 573 

English 564 

Pried 573 

Turkey 574 

Vegetable 876 

Head. 

Baked 541 

Boiled 542 

Browned 542 

Broiled 543 

Cakes 546 

Calfs' 542 

Cheese 546 

Cheese, spiced 546 

Collared 543 

Croquettes 546 

Croquettes, spiced.. .546 

Fricassed 543 

Fritters 546 

Lambs' 541 

Molded 543 

Pie 546 

Potted 544 

Ragout of Calf's 546 

Scalloped 544 

Sheep's 541 

Stewed 544 

Stuffed 542 

Heart. 

Baked 485 

Broiled Sheep's 4E0 

Fried 486 

Hen's Nest 240 

Herbs. 

For seasoning 163 

Sweet 5G5 

To dry 1C3 

When in season 918 

Herring. 

Baked 276 

Baked, salt '276 

Pudding 276 

Salted 261 

Season for 918 

HiCKORY-NUTS 339 

Hidden Mountain 123 

Hops, to keep 54 

HoMiNV 864 

Boiled 864 

Coarse 593 

Fine 593 

Fried . 593 

Horse-radish. 

For winter 173 

Season for 918 

Stewed 864 

Huckleberries 308 

Apple 409 

Apricot 409 

Citron 409 

Cherry .409 

Chocolate 402,633 

Currant 409 

Gooseberry 410 

Grape , 410 

Lemon .' 410 

Nectarine 409 



Page. 

Orange 410 

Orange, gopher 412 

Peach 409-410 

Peaches and cream.. 41© 

Pear 409 

Pine-apple 411 

Plum 409 

Raspberry 410 

Snow 411 

Strawberry 410-411 

Tutti Fiutti 411 

Water-melon 409 

Ices 407 

Canned fruit for 409 

Garnish for 408 

Increase of 40H 

Juice for 407 

Meringue for 507. 6;i4 

Pulp for 407 

Syrup for 634 

To mold 408 

To serve 408 

Ice-cream. 

Almond 386, 393, 396 

Almond caramel . .393 

Apple 390, 400 

Apricot 399 

Arrowroot 393 

Banana 400 

Best with fruit 387 

Boston 39S 

Brine Blanket for... .388 

Buttermilk 39.? 

Cabinet ..400 

Cake for 391 

Cave for 391 

Caramel 394, 396 

Cherry 399 

Chesnut 394 

Chocolate 394 

Chocolate caramel.. 394 
Chocolaie custard.. .395 

Chocolat°, fruit 894 

Chocolate moss 395 

Chocolate, spiced 394 

Cocoa-nut 386. 395 

Coffee 395 

Coffee, whipped 395 

Coffee, white 395 

Custard 395 

Cu.stard kettle for ...392 

Eggless .. 387, 396 

Eggs for ,387 

Fancy 394 

Filbert 396 

Fig .396 

Flavor for 384, 393 

Freezer 1001 

Freezer, care of 392 

Fruit 386 

Fruit for . . . . 386, S92-393 

Fruit flavors for 386 

Gelatine 397 

Ginger 397 

Harlequin 397 

Hickory-nut .397 

Italian 39'7 

Italian custard 398 

Jam . 397 

Jam for ."92. 

Kentucky 397 

Lacteanola 385, rm 

Lemon .7>8 

Macaroon .308 



1272 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Macaroon caramel.. .498 

Molds for 389 

Neapolitau 384, 392 

New York 398 

Nut 393 

Orange 399 

*Peach 399,400 

Pine-apple 400 

Pistachio 393 

Philadelphia, 384,387,392 

Plum 369 

Proportions for 387 

Raspberry .399 

Riced orange 399 

Saratoga 400 

Self freezing . . ..389, 390 

Strawberry 399 

Substitutes in 292 

Sugar for 384,387 

Surprise 401 

Tea 395,401 

To freeze 387, 389 

To make 385, 388 

To mold 389 

To serve 389,390 

Triple X>^ 

Tutti Frutti 401 

Utensils for.387, 392, 1011 

Vanilla 401 

Vanilla custard 401 

With eggs 385 

Without eggs 385 

Whipped .398 

Whipped cream for, 384, 
392 

Icing. 

Almond 415 

Beating 413 

Boiled 415 

Boiled, eggless 416 

Boiled, chocolate 417 

Cape May 9.57 

Clear 417 

Chocolate.. 416 

Chocolate caramel... 417 

Chocolate cream 416 

Chocolate, spiced 417 

Chocolate gelatine. ..417 

Cocoa 416 

Confectioner's, 417 

Corn-starch 4 1 8 

Diagrams for 423 

Duplex 957 

E«gless 416,418 

For Bride's cake 425 

ForChautilly custrd,428 
For Charlotte Russe,427 

For Dessert cake 426 

For Jelly cake 427 

French 418 

Gelatine 418 

Glaze 418 

Hard 418 

Inlaid 421 

Isinglass 418 

Lemon 419 

Marble 419 

Meringue 419 

Orange 419 

Ornamental 421 

Pearl 420 

Piping 422 

Plain 413,420 

Proportion for 414 



Page. 

Quick 420 

Soft 420 

Snow 420 

Smoother 413 

Spatula for 413 

Toapplv 414 

To make 414 

Transparent 420 

Tutti Frutti 420 

Watev 420 

Yellow 421 

Island. 

Cocoa-nut 122 

Floating 122 

Jam 430 

Apple 431 

Apricot 431 

Berries for 431 

Berry 435 

Blackberry 432, 433 

Carrot 432 

Cherry : 432 

Currant 432 

Damson 432 

French 432 

Gooseberry 4.33 

Gooseberry with cur- 
rant juice 433 

Grape 433 

Green-gage 4:^ 

Making 430 

Paddle for 430 

Pie-plant 433 

Pie-plant andOrange4.34 

Pine-apple 434 

Plum 433,434 

Quince 434 

Raspberry 434 

Strawberry 435 

To keep..". 431 

Jelly. 

Apple 137,445 

Apricot 438 

Aspic 445, 715 

Bag 436 

Blackberry 439 

Calfs-foot 445 

Cherry 4,39 

Chocolate 446 

Cider 446 

Coflee 446 

Corn-starch 447 

Crab-apple 438 

Cranberry 439 

Currant 439 

(Uirrant, black 440 

Currant, uncooked. .440 

Dried apple 438 

Easter 447 

Elderberry 440 

Four fruit 448 

Fruit 435,447 

Gooseberry 441 

Grape 441 

Grape, wild 441 

Italian 4.50 

Lemon 447 

Lemon snow 447 

Muscadine 441 

Orange 44S 

Peach 441, 448 

Pie Plant 441, 449 

Pigs-foot 449 

I'ine-apple 411, 449 



Page 

Plum..,. 442 

Quince 442 

Raspberry ,443 

Ribbon 449 

Sandwiches 451 

Savory 445 

Strainer ..435 

St awberry 439 ,443 

Tapioca 449 

Tomato 443 

To make 435—437 

To cover 436 

To test 436 

Whipped 450 

With Fruit 450 

JONNY-CAKE 42 

Alabama 42 

Jumbles 

Coaeoa-nut 98 

Lemon 98 

To liuish % 

KIDNEYS 590 

Broiled 490 

Fried 491 

Mutton 491 

Ragout 491 

Stewed 491 

Veal and bacon 460 

Kedgkree 287 

Kisses 159 

Oven for 131 

Sugar for 131 

Knitted cover 689 

Kringlks 52 

LajMB. 

Braised 498 

Boiled 503 

Carbonado of 499 

<:hop,< 501 

Curried 503 

Deviled 677 

Fricassee 502 

Fried 577 

Grilled 498 

Roast 499 

Squares 576 

Stewed 500 

With Asparagus 500 

With Pease 500 

With Tomatoes 500 

Landrails 360 

Lk.mon 300 

Frappee 218 

Peel, candied 342 

Paste 347 

Lemonade. 

Effervescing 219 

Egg 219 

Everyday 218 

Hot 219 

Milk 219 

Picnic 219 

Pocket 220 

Sparkling 218 

Tutti Frutti 218 

Lettuce 

Puree of 871 

Stewed 864 

Wilted 864 

Liver 

And Bacon 488 

Baked 480 

Balls 489 

Blauquettes of. .. 490 



INDEX TO COOKEiTV RECIPES. 



127a 



Page. 

Broiled 487 

Curried 487 

Deviled 487,577 

Fried 488 

Larded 486 

Larded, broiled 487 

Minced 488 

Pudding 489 

Rolls 489 

Stewed 489 

Stuflfed 874 

Lobster. 

Boiled 800 

Broiled 800 

Croquettes 8(il 

Curried 1052 

Cutlets 801 

Deviled 800 

Ragout of 801 

Roasted 801 

Salad 787 

Sauce 1053 

Sc.llo ed 801 

Macaroni. 

Baked 805 

Boiled 865 

Italian 865 

Triple 865 

With Tomatoes 865 

Macaroons, 

Almond 139 

Chocolate 139 

Hickory-nut 139 

Lemon 139 

Pecan 139 

Pyramid of 139 

Mackerel. 

Baked 276 

Baked Salt 276 

Boiled 276 

Boiled Salt 27G 

Broiled 277 

Pickled 277 

When iuseason 918 

Mangoes. 

Hawkeye 659 

Horse-radish for ... 660 

Melon 659 

Pepper 660 

Pepper with tongue. 661 

Tomato 661 

Yellow 659 

Marmalade 728 

Apple 733 

Apricot 733 

Crab Apple 623 

Crab Apple for pies. 723 

Fig.... . 733 

Orange 733 

Peach 734 

Pine-apple 734 

Wild Plum 734 

MARSH MALLOW 140 

MEAD 220 

Meat. 

Balls 489 

Batter 565 

Bear 353 

Boiled 455 

Bra-sing 455 

Broiled 457 

Carving 455 

Cold 563 

Court Bouillion 456 



Page. 

Deviled 712 

Fried 458 

Garnishes lor 976 

Glaziug 435 

Jellied 456 

Larding 4.59 

Marinade 450 

Molded 459 

Potted 460 

Sauces for 980 

Steam d 603 

Stewed 4^16 

To cook 454 

To garnish 455 

To keep 453 

To restore 453 

To serve 455 

Tough 454 

Wheu tender 4.53 

Melons 308, 338 

Nutmeg 308,338 

Japan 308 

Water 308,338 

Meringue. 

Apple 614 

For pies 604 

Marbled 390 

Oven for 131 

Peach 614 

Pieplant 614 

Milk, use of 19 

Mince meat 622 

Appleless 624 

Dried apples for — 623 

Farmer. s 624 

Fragment 624 

Holiday 622 

Lemon 624 

Measure 625 

Proportion of 623 

Suggestions for 623 

Muffins. 

Corn 52 

Cream ..42 

Graham 42 

Indian 42 

Rice 42 

Rice flour 43 

Rye 43 

Sourmilk 43 

Wheat 4a 

Mock 

Crab 196 

Terrapin 400 

Molded grains 594 

Moonshine! 

Mullet, baked 277 

Mush 

Baked 591 

Cerealino 

Cerealine, fried 591 

Corn meal,. .589,591 

Cracked whent 594 

Custard kette for 589,490 

Farina 592 

Fried 590,592 

Gluten 592 

Graham 592 

Graham, molded 592 

Granula . 592 

Philadelphia 591 

Round cans for. .590, 592 

Rye 592 

Thickness of — 590 



Page. 

To make 589 

To stir 589 

To serve 590 

Water for 589 

With fruit 594 

Mushrooms 

Baked 59G 

Broiled 596 

Curried 597 

Catsup 599 

Catsup, double 499 

Fried 597 

Omelet 599 

Pickled 597 

Potted 598 

Powder 600 

Pudding.. 600 

Sauce 6oO 

Scallops 601 

Stems 602 

Stewed 598 

Toast .602 

To prepare 595 

To test ;...595 

With eyes 602 

With drawn butter. .601 
Musk melons 

Season for 918 

Mustard 164 

French 180 

Indian 180 

Prepared 180 

Tartar 180 

Mutton 

A la Venison 509 

And macaroni 579 

Au court bouillon.. -508 

Augratin 508 

Balls 679 

Birds 509 

Boiled 502,503 

Boned 503 

Braised 498 

Chops 502,506 

Chops, masked 506 

Chops, Swiss 508 

Chops with cheese. ..502 

CoUops 578 

Curried 503, 577 

Cutlets 502 

Cutlets, cold .566 

Fillet of 509 

Harricot 503 

Hash 578 

Hot Pot 507 

Leg of 502,504 

Masked 577 

Mock Saddle of 580 

Molded 459 

Pie 507,578 

Pudding 507 

Ragout of ..510,580 

Relish 579 

Rissoles 508,579 

Roast 504 

Rolled 504 

Scallops 50!< 

Scalloped 578 

Shoulder of 5o4 

Smothered 577 

Stewed 505,579 

With onions 579 

With pickles 580 

With Tomatoes 579 



1274 



INDEX TO fcOOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Nectar 

Blackberry 220 

Cherry 220 

Cream 220 

Grape 220 

Welsh 221 

Nectarines 309 

Frozen 335 

Nougat, white 141 

NcTs, arrangement of .310 

Oatmeal 

Fried 593 

Jpllied 593 

Molded 593 

New York 593 

Steamed 593 

Okra 

Boiled .....8C6 

Fried 866 

Medley 866 

Patties 871 

With Ham 866 

With Tomatoes 866 

Olives 662 

Stuffed 475 

Beef 480 

Omelet 226 

Baked 242 

Bread 241 

Cheese 241,243 

Chicken 243 

Chocolate, 244 

Corn 241 

Cream 241 

Fish 241 

Flabby 227 

French 241 

Fruit 244 

Lemon 242 

Meat....: .228,241 

Milk 242 

Mixed 241 

M ushroom 242 

Olive 242 

Orange 242 

Oyster 242 

Pan 227 

Plain 242 

Pot to ? 243 

Puff 243 

Savory 241 

Size of 228 

Sweet baked 244 

Sweet, fried 244 

To bake 227 

To make 527 

Vegetable 228,244 

Water 244 

Waverly 244 

With Parsley 228 

Onions. 

Baked 866 

Boiled 866 

Browned 557 

Creamed 866 

Fried 866 

Stuffed 866 

Omelet 866 

Pudding ' 866 

With beans 866 

When in season 918 

Orange. 

Citron ais 

Compote 325 



Page. 

Fool 325 

Float , 123,326 

Paste 347 

Peel, candied 443 

Snow 325 

Oranges 307,325 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 333 

Glazed 335 

Mock 448 

When in season 918 

Oven. 

For Bread 19 

Moderate 27 

Paper test for 14 

Oyster. 

And chicken pie 813 

Chowder 811 

Croquettes 811 

Fritters 811 

Fritter Patties 812 

Omelet 811 

Ovals 567 

Pancakes 811 

Pattits 812 

Pie 812 

Powder 812 

Roll ' 813 

Sandwiches 815 

Soup 814 

Stew 814 

Stew with celery 814 

Toast 814 

Vol-au-vents... .812,815 

Oysters. 

And Macaroni 815 

Best time for 798 

Boiled 816 

Broiled 802 

Corn 293 

Creamed 802 

Curried 802 

Deviled 803 

Fricasseed 805 

Fried 803 

Fried, Boston 803 

Fried, Buckeye 803 

Fried, Gopher 804 

Fried, ItHlian 804 

Fried, Manhattan.. 804 
Fried, Philadelphia. 804 

Fried, Superior 803 

Hidden 805 

In shell ...797,806,815 

In scallops 809 

Panned 806 

Pickled 806 

Raw 807 

Raw, to serve 807 

Scalloped 808,809 

Skewered 809 

Spiced 807 

Steamed 809 

Stuffed 810 

TiufBed 810 

To open 798 

To prepare 707 

To serve 798, 805 

Varieties of 798 

Vegetable 870 

Walled 810 

With cream 806 

With onions 802 

Ox-eyes 240 



Page 

Ox-tails 

Boiled 492 

Stewed 492 

Pan 

Bread 10,12,14,15 

Lady Fingers 92 

Russian Iron 16 

Stem, substitute for... 66 

Pancakes, Berlin 102 

Parsnips 

Cake 868 

Fried 867 

Stewed 897 

Warmed over 860 

Partridge 

Braised 358 

Broiled 358 

Hashed 361 

Pie 362 

Potted 361 

Rissoles of 362 

Salad 359 

Salmi of 366 

Stewed 361 

Roast 361,363, 366 

With Mushroms . 362 

Parsley, tried. . . .181, 241 

Paste 

Batter 606 

Bean 607 

Corn meal 606 

Cream 605 

Economical 605 

Florida 606 

(iraham 605 

Hygienic 606 

Nantucket 606 

Oatmeal 606 

Oven for 611 

Plain 606 

Potato 607 

Puff 604,607 

Puff, French 609 

Puff, good 607 

Puff, medium ,611 

Puff, rich 608 

Quaker 605 

Short 004,611 

Suet 611 

Suet, rich ..612 

Suggestions for pnff.609 

Sweet 6*2 

To handle 610 

To make 610 

To turn 610 

With boiled mi Ik.... 612 

Pastry. 

Butter for 60:? 

Brush 16 

Cu ting tJ03 

Egging 6 9 

Frosting 609 

Glaze 012 

Rolling 601> 

Paw paws, season for. 918 

Peaches 309, 326 

And cream 328 

Baked 327 

Candied 343 

Canned . ... 152,153 

Canned, cold 145 

Dried 345 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 327,335 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1275 



Froz* witU cream.. 327 

In brine 880 

In marmalade 328 

Jellied 327 

Vegetable 309 

Peach. 

Float 327 

Leather 880 

Meringue 327, 624 

Paste 348 

Sauce 346 

Tapioca 328 

Pears 309,328 

Baked 329 

Canned 152, 154 

Compote 330 

Jellied 329 

Float 327 

Frosted 334 

Stewed 329 

Pease. 

Baked 868 

Canned 658 

Creamed 868 

Dried 868,880 

Green 868 

Pudding 855,868 

With vegetables.... -.868 

When in season 918 

Pepper-nuts ..98 

Pepper-pot 876 

Pheasant. 

Broiled 362 

Cutlets 363 

Fried 367 

Hashed 361 

Pot roast 365 

Roast 365,363 

Pie plant. 

Baked 330 

Canned 155 

Canned, cold 155 

Fried 331 

Meringue ',614 

Stewed 330 

Pickled. 

Apples i ■ 643 

Artichokes 643 

Barberries 643 

Beans 643 

Beetg 643 

Cabbage 644 

Cabbage and peppers 

644 

Cabbage, red 644 

Carrots . %645 

Cauliflower 644 

Celery and Cabbage 

546 

Cherries &16 

Cucumbers 652 

Eggs 646 

Gherkins 646 

(irapes 646 

Lemons 647 

Limes 647 

Nasturtiums 647 

Onions .644,647 

Onions, Spanish 645 

Peaches.. 648 

Plums 648 

Radish Pods 649 

Sweet corn 649 

Tomatoes 649 



Page. 

Walnuts 649 

Pickles 641 

Alum for 641 

Bottles for 641 

Cans for 641 

Chopped 650 

Chowehow 657 

Chowchow, Buckeye 

658 

Chowchow, Gopher. .657 

Chutney 659 

Cucumbe r 651, 653 

Cucumber, sliced. . . 653 

Cucumber, ripe 654 

French 6.34 

Hanover 655 

Higdon 654 

Imitation 645 

In Brine 641, 652 

Kettle for 641 

Ladies' delight 650 

Martyuia 654 

Mixed 654 

Oil-cloth cover for... 643 

Pepper 655 

Pepper, chopped — 655 

Pieallilli 661 

Picnic Relish 661 

Pyfer 655 

Rhine 645 

Saltfor 642 

Self-made 653 

Sliced 650 

Spanish 655 

Spicing for 442 

To keep 641 

Tomato, greea 656 

Tomato, ripe 656 

Universal : . . . 656 

Variety .656 

Vinegar for 641 , 642 

West India 657 

Pickles, Sweet 662 

Apple 666 

Beets 664 

Clingstone 666 

Currant 664,668 

Figs 665 

Grape 664 

Huckleberry 665 

Peach 665, 666 

Pear 665, 660 

Pear, Gopher 666 

Pine-apple 666 

Raisin 665 

Ripe Cucumber 665 

Spices for 662 

Strawberry 666 

Sugar for 662 

Syrup for 5.52 

To cau 663 

To make 662,663 

Tomato, chopped ...667 

Tomato, ri pe 667 

Tomato' sliced 667 

To test 663 

Watermelon 667 

Pie. 

Apple. custard 614 

Apple-butter custard 

614 

Apple, deep 620 

Apple, grated 613 

Apple, halved 613 



Page, 

Apple, lemon 613 

Apple meringue 614 

Apple, sliced 61i 

Apjde, sliced, with al- 
monds 614 

Apples, sliced, with 

cream 613 

Apricot 626 

Banana 614 

Banana and apple.. .614 

Berry 615,626 

Berry, canned 616 

Berry, dried 616 

Blackberry 615 

Boiled Cider 615 

• Buttermilk 615 

California 625 

Carrot 615 

Cherry 615 

Chess 615 

Cocoa-nut : .616 

Corn-starch 615 

Cottage 613 

Cottage cheese 616 

Crab-apple 614 

Cracker 618 

Cranberry 615, 618 

Cream 616 

Creamless 617 

Cream, whipped . . . .617 
Cre am whipped with 

fruit 617 

Crumb 617 

Currant 626 

Currant, green 618 

Currant ripe 618 

Custard 618 

Custard, chocolate. ..619 

Custard, Jelly 519 

Custard, nispberry ..619 
Diamond Top for... 616 

Dried-apple.. 612 

Dried-apple and cran- 

berrie.t 612 

Dried-currant 618 

Dried-peach 626 

Dried Pumpkin 629 

Elderberry 619 

Flavoring for 616 

Fruit 619 

Fruit, shallow 620 

Gooseberry 620 

Grape 620 

Hickory-nut 621 

Lemon 621 

Lemon, boiled 621 

Lemon, chopped . . .621 
Lemon, economical. 621 

Lemon, eggless 621 

Lemon, slicpd 922 

Lemon, with fruit.. .621 

Meringue for 604 

Mince-meat for 622 

Mock-mince 618 

Molasses 625 

Orange 625 

Orange, sliced 626 

Pans for 604, 619 

Peach 626 

Peach, cream 626 

Peach meringue 614 

Pie-plant 616 

Pie-plant meringue . .914 
Pie-plant, stewed ... 627 



1276 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Pie-plant, with fruit. .627 

Pine-apple 627 

Plum 627 

Potato 627 

Potato, sweet 627 

Prune 658 

Prune, custard 656 

Pumpkin 628 

Pumpkin, eggless.. .626 

Raisin 629 

Raspberry.. .615,626,630 

Rice 630 

Saratoga 630 

Squasb 629 

Strawberry.. ..626,630 

Sweet apple. 613 

Tomato 630 

T mato.ripe 630 

Vinegar 630 

Pie 

• Game 708 

Giblet 708 

Hampton 567 

Lamb 709 

Mixed meat 567 

Meat 708 

Meat and potato 568 

Panned 708 

Pigeon 364 

Raised 429,568 

Sea 481 

Tongue 568 

Veal 709 

Veal and Ham 533 

Veal and Oyster 533 

Western 375 

Pickerel, baked 278 

Picnic 

Fall 918 

Summer 913 

Pig, roast 515 

Pig's Feet, souse 516 

Pig's Head 

Baked 517 

Boiled 517 

Cheese .518 

Collared 517 

Pigeon 

A la mode 364 

Braised 368 

Pie 364 

Koast 363 

Stewed 364 

Pike, a la Godard . . .278 
Pine-apple .... 307,311, .331 

And Tapioca 320 

Canned 155 

Dried 346 

Frozen 334 

To keep 331 

Pinch of sugar 564 

Pippins, Jellced 313 

Plaintans 307 

Plujis 331 

Canned 155 

Dried 346 

Frozen 335 

Paste 347 

Pocket-books 43 

pop-overs 43 

Corn 43 

Pork 

And beans 514 

Boiled 510 



Page. 

Cake 580 

cheese 581 

Chops 512 

Cutlets 581 

Hash 581 

Pie 513 

Pudding 513 

Roast, 513 

Roast loin of 510 

Roast leg of 511 

Roll 513 

Steaks 513 

Stewed 512 

Tenderloi'i 513 

To keep fresh 515 

Pot-au-FEU 464, 841 

Potato-pot 485 

Pork, salt 

Boiled F19 

Fried 519 

In Batter 519 

Pot Pie 520 

P essed 520 

Rashus of 979 

Roastof 520 

Scraps 519 

Stew 521 

With apples 620 

Potato 

Ala Macaroni 681 

A la Maitre d 'Hotel 683 

A la Pancake 679 

A la Parisienne 685 

Baked 673 

Baked, quick 673 

Balls 684 

Biscuitr.. 68.") 

B anc mange 687 

Boiled 674,675 

Border f91 

Breakfast 676 

Broiled 677 

Browned .' .676, 677 

Buckeye 682 

Cake 6&5 

Cakes 685 

Castle 681 

Casserole (if 680 

Creamed 677 

Croquettes ,686 

Curried 678 

Dashed 675 

Diced 678 

Duchesse 685 

Flour 686 

For garnishing 691 

Fricassed 678 

Fried 678 

Fried, French 678 

Fried, grated 679 

Fried, raw 67,s 

Fritters 687 

Galveston 691 

Glazed 674 

Granite .TOO 

In a cake 678 

Jelly 687 

Lactiola 683 

Larded 674 

Loaves 691 

Lyonaise .691 

Marinated 677 

Mashed 679, 682 

Mashed, brown 680 



Page. 

Mashed, fried 680 

Molded 080 

New 676 

Omelet 686 

Pancakes 687 

Panned 680 

Pickles 687 

Pie 687 

Pudding 686 

Puffs 688 

Puree of 680 

Rice 690 

Ringf'd 681 

Roasted 673 

Rolls 688 

Roses 681 

Salad 688 

Sandwiches 685 

Sauced 682 

Saratoga ..681 

Scalloped 682 

Slaw .688 

Steamed ... 082 

Stewed .683 

Stuffed 689 

Snow 689 

Souftie 689 

Soup 689 

Stew 689 

Stewed 683 

Stuffed 684 

Surprise 685 

Swedish 680 

Sweet 673 

To cook 671,672 

To pare 671 

To serve 671 

To steam 671 

Triangle 682 

Walnut House 683 

Waterless 675 

Whip .690 

With bacon 679,682 

With cabbiige 691 

With fish 690 

With gravv 686 

With haul 690 

Withkiiiueys 690 

With meat 673,690 

With ouious. 679, 683, 691 

With sauce 674 

With turnips ...680 
With vinegar 683 

Potato, Sweet. 

Baked 691 

Biscuits 693 

Boiltd 692 

Browned 686 

Cake 686 

Cakes 693 

Carolina ..692 

Cheese-cakes 693 

Fried 692 

Glazed 692 

Mashed 692 

Perfection 692 

Roasted 692 

Steamed 692 

Stewed 693 

Texas 692 

With meat 691 

Poultry 694 

As food 694 

Frozen 696 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1277 



Page. 

To bard 695 

To boil..,. 695 

To lard 695 

To roast 695,696 

To stew ...695 

To stuff 694 

To truss 695 

Prairie Chicickv. 

Boiled 363 

Hash.d 361 

Pot-ro st of 365 

Roast 363 365 

Salmi of 366 

Steamed 366 

Stewed 366 

Preserves, 721 

Apple 723 

Apricot 723 

Barberry 723 

Blackberry 724 

Blueberry 724 

Carrot 724 

Care of 722 

Cherry 724 

Citron 724 

Crab-apple 725 

Cranberry 724 

Cumnt. 724 

Elderberry 725 

Fifit 725 

Grape 726 

Grape wild 725 

Green-gage 726 728 

Green-tomato 730 

Mulberry 726 

Peach 726 727 

Pear 727 

Pie-plant 727 

Pine-apple 727 

Plum 728 

Pumpkin 729 

Quince 729 

Quince and apple 729 

Raspberry 729 

Rule for 721 

Strawberry 729 

Sun ■ 721 

Syrup 722 

'lomato 729 

To make 621 

Water-melon 730 

Prunes 346 

Browned 346 

Tapioca 347 

Whip 347 

PUDDiNG 

Almond 740 

Apple 741 

Apple-batter 742 

Apple, boiled 742 

Apple-custard 614 

Apple charlotte 741 

Apple, dried 751 

Apple, sweedish 741 

Arrowroot 743 

Bachelor's v^. . • .743 

Bags 7;i6 

Batter 744 

Batter, steamed 744 

Berry 760 

Birds-nest 742 

Blackberry 746 

Blueberry. . .741, 746, 760 
Boiled 736 



Page. 

Bread 744,745 

Bread, brown 746 

Brown 746 

Brown Betty 741 

Cabinet 746 

Cake 747 

Cape May 740 

Carrot 747 

Cerealine 747 

Cherry ...751 

Chocolate 747, 748 

Chocolate, with fruit. 748 

Citron 648 

Cocoa-nut 746, 748 

Corn-starch 748 

Cottage 749 

Cracked-wheat 749 

Cream 749 

Cream, perfection. . .750 

Currant 741 

Curate's 750 

Danish 743 

Date 750 

Delraonico 750 

Di.xie 750 

Easter 749 

Easter, with fruit 749 

Economical 760 

Estelle 750 

Fig 750 

Flavor for Cabinet. ..405 

Florentine 745 

Frozen 

Frozen, with gelatine404 

Fruit 745,757 

Gingerbread 752 

Gooseberry 745 

G rahara . " 752 

Half-hour 752 

Hunter's 763 

Indian ." 752 

Indian, boiled 752 

Indian, fruit 752 

Indian, steamed 753 

Kiss 753 

Layer 745 

L°raon 753 

Lemon, boiled 754 

Macaroni 754 

Milk for 735 

Minnehaha 742 

Minute 754 

Molasses 754 

Mold 737 

Monday 745 

Nesselrode 405 

Oatmeal 754 

One, two, three, four 7,54 

Orange 746, 754 

Paris 75^1 

Peach 747 

Pe ich, dried 751 

Pie-plant 754 

Ptttsburg 7.53 

Pine-apple 756 

Plain 744 

Plum-eggless 757 

Plum. English 756 

Plum, Gelatine 758 

Plum, Prairie 758 

Plum with apples. ..757 

Potato 758 

Prune 758 

Puff 759 



Page. 

Puff-quick 7.59 

Puff, Saratoga., 759 

Queen Mab 759 

Queen of 746 

Raisin 760 

Raspberry 760 

Rice 760 

Rice, with fruit 760 

Rice, boiled 760 

Srtgo 762 

Sago, with apples 762 

Sauces for 737 

Sago with raisins.. ..762 

Scottish 743 

Snow 762 

Souffle 762 

Steaming 736 

Sugar in 735 

Suet 763 

Suet for 735 

Suet, ginger 763 

Suet with apples.... 763 

Sweet-potato 758 

Sweedish 829 

Swi-s 763 

Tapioca 763 

Tapioca, apple 764 

Tapioca, peach 764 

Tapioca, cocoa-nut.. 764 

Tapioca, e ream 764 

Vermicelli 764 

Vermicelli, w ith 

Marmalade 764 

Water bath lor 737 

White 764 

Whortleberry 765 

With apples . . : 761 

With fruit 743 

With peaches 761 

Puffs 

Breakfast 43 

Boston cream 86 

Buckeye cream 86 

Raisin 759 

Pumpkin. 

Canned 159 

Dried 868 

Fried 880 

Season for 918 

Quail. 

Boiled 366 

Fricassee 367 

Fried... 366 

Mock 482 

On toast 368 

Pot-roast 365 

Roast 367 

Steamed 367 

When in season 919 

Quince 

Baked 331 

Canned 155 

Compote 331 

Float 327 

In Jelly 731. 

Steamed 332 

When in season 919 

Rabbit 368 

Boiled 368 

Creeled 369 

Curried 369 

Fricassee 369 

Fried 369 

Jack 360 



1278 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Potted 369 

Roast 370 

Sandwiches 370 

When iuseason 919 

Ragamuffins 196 

Raisine 332 

Raisins 341 

Raising Powdee. 
Proportion of 35, 62 

Ram A KINS 193 

Pastry 193 

Toast 194 

Rarebit. 

Scotch 194 

Welch 194 

Yorkshire 195 

Raspberries 308 

Dried 344 

Float 332 

When in season 919 

Red Snapper 

Boiled 279 

Fried 279 

Reed Birds 

Baked 370 

Roast .370 

When in season 919 

Rice. 

Apples 742 

Baked 865 

Boiled 868 

Buttered 761 

For curries 869 

Pie 869 

Stewed 869 

8now-ball 761 

Southern 869 

WithmUk 869 

Roasts. 

Pot r...566 

Spare-rib 511 

Tenderloin 511 

Warmed-over 565 

Washing on 375 

Roe. 

Crounetts 280 

Fried 279 

ROLY-POLY.' 

Apple 765 

Dixie 766 

Fig 765 

Orange 765 

Peach 764 

Rolls. 

Breakfast 44 

Cinnamon 44 

Cofiee 44 

Corn 44 

Dinner 44 

Egg ....45 

Every-day 45 

French 45,46 

Graham 47 

Italian 47 

• Oatmeal ...47 

Pa ker House 47 

Ring 47 

Snow-flake 47 

Twist 52 

Vienna 47,48 

Wedding Sandwich. ..48 
Winter 49 

Boll Pan. 
French 16 



Page. 

Italian 47 

Vienna 13 

Roux. 

Brown 558 

White 558 

Salad 772 

Alligator Pear 330 

Anchovy 779 

Apple 779 

Apple and celery 779 

Asparagus 779 

Bean 780 

Bean, Lima 780 

Beef 788 

Borage 78) 

Boston 795 

Brussels 790 

Cabbage 780 

Celery 781 

Cheese 784 

Chicken 781 

ChickenMayonnai.se 782 

Codfish 7S4 

Corn-salad 787 

Cucumber 783 

Cucumber and onion 783 
Cucumber and To- 
mato 794 

Currant 787 

Crab 783 

Crawfish 783 

Creole 794 

Dandelion 794 

Egg 783 

Endive 784 

Fish 268,784 

Florida 789 

Fruit 783,787 

Game 789 

Garnishes 978 

Gelinoea ' 784 

Ham 783 

Herring 785 

Hop 795 

Inexpensive 772 

Japanese 791 

Jelly-border for 796 

Kinds to use 1033 

Lemon 789 

Lettuce 786 

Lobst r 787 

Lobster, canned 788 

Meat 788 

Meat and Pork 788 

Melon 338 

Mint 784 

Mixed 780 

Mixing 773 

Mutton and Carrot. ..788 

Nasturtium 789 

Onion 789 

Orange 789 

Oyster 789 

Pepper 781 

Pickle 790 

Philadelphia 790 

Potato 790 

Potato with Beets 791 

Potato with cabbage 791 

Radish 783 

Russian 729 

Salmon 268, 792 

Salmon, canned 792 

Sandwiches 236 



Sardine 776,793 

Scallop 793 

Serving 783 

Shad Roe 784 

Shells 773 

Shrimp 793 

Sweet-oread 794 

Tip-top 780 

Tomato ....794 

To prepare 772 

Turnips 796 

Variety of 772 

Veal 788 

Vegetable 795 

Vegetable 795 

Water-cress 795 

Wholesome 1119 

Salad, gelinola. 

With fish 784 

With fruit 7&5 

With game 785 

With lobster 785 

With meat ....785 

With oysters 785 

With poultry 785 

With vegetables 785 

Sally Lunk 50 

Salmon. 

Baked ...277,280 

Boiled 281 

Canned 282 

Croquettes 280 

Crimped 282 

Cutlets, broiled 282 

Escaloped 282 

Fritters 281 

Steaks, fried 282 

Stewed 283 

When in season 919 

Salsify. 

Cake 870 

Fried 870 

Fritters 870 

On toast 870 

Scalloped 870 

Soup 870 

Salt, spiced 181 

Sandwiches. 

Beef 483 

Cheese 685 

Cream 452 

Egg 585 

French 452 

Ham 585 

Jelly 451 

Lunch .. 686 

Mixed 686 

Preserve 638 

Raspberry 482. 638 

Reception 586 

Rolls 587 

Salad 236,586 

Toast 687 

Tongue 587 

Victoria 452 

Sauce 284 

Sardines, 

American 283 

Fried 283 

How made 283 

Salad 776,793 

Sauces for meats. 

Almond IR 

Anchovy 167 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



1279 



Apple 167 

Asparagus 168 

Bain marie for 162 

Bectiamel 179 

Bread 168 

Brown 161 

Caper .* 168 

Carrack 483 

Celery 169 

Celery seed for 163 

Chestnut 169 

Chili 169 

Crab .170 

Cranberry 170 

Cream 170,362 

Currrnt 170 

Currant-Jelly 171 

Cu ry 171 

Custard kettle for. .171 

Drawn-butter 171 

Egg 172 

Gooseberry 172 

Hollandaise 172 

Horse-radish.... 172, 463 

Indian Chutney 173 

Italian 173 

Leamington 173 

Lemon 171, 173 

Liver and lemon.... 174 

Liver and parsley 174 

Lobster 174 

Lobster, economical. 175 

Mngical 161 

Mayonaise. 175 

Mayonaise, fish 175 

Mephistophelian — 712 

Mint 175 

Mustard 468 

Olive 175 

Otiion 176 

Orange 176 

Oyster 176 

Oyster, brown 177 

Parsley 177 

Pickle 171,494 

Piquant 562 

Polish 493 

Robert 512,592 

Shrimp 171 

Sorrel 475 

T.irtare 177 

Thickening for 162 

Tomato 177 

Tomato, French ... 178 
To repare 161 

. White 178 

White, French 178 

Sauces for puddings. 

Apricot 767 

Arrowroot 766 

Cape May 767 

Caramel 767 

Cherry 767 

Chocolate 767 

Cider 767 

Cocoanut 768 

Cocoanut hard 770 

Cream, cold, 768 

Cream, whipped 768 

Currant 76S 

Curra-'t, dried 768 

Custard 768 

Dip 768 

Egg .768 



Page. 

Every-day 768 

Foaming 768 

Fruit 768, 769 

Golden 769 

Hard 769 

Jelly 768 

Lactiola 770 

Lemon 769, 770, 771 

Lemon, hard. ..769, '(70 

Maple-sugar 770 

Marigold 770 

Minnehaha 770 

Orange 770 

Orange, hard 769 

Peach 767 

Pine-apple 771 

Plain 769 

Prairie 769 

Prune 771 

Queen 771 

Raspberry 767, 771 

Sago 771 

Saratoga 767, 771 

Snow 767 

Spice 769, 771 

Strawberry 767 

Syrup 786 

Vanilla 741 

Vin( gar 771 

Sauer Kraut 1010 

Sausage 527 

And apple 527 

Baked 527 

Breaded 527 

Cold, sliced 1047 

Creoled.- 527 

Liver 527, 1047 

Mixed .1047 

Mutton 528 

Ovsters 528 

Pork 1047 

Pork, Buckeye 1047 

Poultry 528 

Roll 527.529,581 

Summer 1047 

Triple 1047 

Veal 528 

Virginia 1047 

Wliite 528 

With Chestnuts 529 

Savarin 766 

With apples 766 

Scallops — 816 

Baked 816 

Chinese 816 

Fried 816 

Stewed 816 

scallopade 196 

Scrapple 518 

Philadelphia 571 

Scones 60 

Shad, baked 283 

When in season 919 

Shells. 

Cut 631 

Folded... 632 

Layer , 631 

Layer, double 631 

Patty 631 

Pvramid 632 

Tart 630 

Vol-an-vent 632 

Shell-fish 797 

Potted 817 



Page. 

Sheep-head, baked.... 284 

Sherbet, Crystal 403 

Lemon 221 

Milk 221 

Orange ... 221 

Pine-apple .221 

Strawberry 222 

Short-cake. 

Orange 639 

Peach 0o9 

Raspberry 639 

Saratoga 639 

Strawberry 639 

Shrimps 817 

Curried 817 

Pie 817 

Potted 817 

Shrub, 

Blacliberry 222 

Currant 222 

Gooseberry 222 

Raspberry 222 

Strawberry 222 

Slaw. 

Cold 796 

Cream 796 

Cream, whipped 796 

Spoon-fork 994 

Smklts, fried 249 

Snaps. 

Ginger 105 

Ginger, Hotel 105 

Lemon 98 

Snipe. 

Fried 374 

Roast 374 

When in .«eason 919 

Soda, Eftervescing 223 

Soles, fried 285 

Souffles. 

Almond 740 

Apple 12.5 

Baked 124 

Cheese 125 

Chestnut 125 

Chicken 125 

Chocolate 126 

Chocolate, cold 126 

Cream 126 

Jelly 127 

Lemon 127 

Macaroni ..127 

Omelette, fruit 127 

Orange 128 

Potato 128 

Soup. 

• Almond 825 

Amber 826 

Apple 826 

Apricot 835 

Artichoke 826 

Asparagus 827 

Asparagus with 

pease 827 

Baked 842 

Balls for 848, 849 

Barley 827 

Basis for 818 

Bean 827,840 

Bean, meatless.'. . ..828 
Bean-Saturday.. 827, 840 

Bean, Turtle 827 

Bean, white 828 

Beef 828 



1280 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Beefsteak 828 

Beef, okra 829 

Black 829 

Blackberry 835 

Bouillon 830 

Bread 831 

Cabbage 831 

Carrot 831 

Cauliflower 831 

Celery 831 

Celery cream 831 

Cherry »35 

Chestnut 832 

Chicken 832 

Chicken, Southern. ..832 

Clarifying 825 

Clear 818, 825 

Clam 832,833 

Cocoanut 833 

Corn 833 

Corn, hasty 833 

Corn, meatless 834 

Cream 834 

Cream of Barley 834 

i Cream of B ets 834 

Cream of Salmon 834 

Cream of Spinach. .834 

Croutons for 849 

Cucumber 834 

Flemish 834 

Fruit 819, 835 

Hasty 840 

Julienne 836 

Lemon 836 

Lobster ^ . . 836 

Making 819 

Milk 836 

Milk with eggs 836 

Mock Turtle 836 

Mutton 838 

Necessity of 818 

Noodle 838 

Okra 838 

Onion 838 

Ox Tail 839 

Oyster 839 

Oyster, mock 839 

Parsnip 839 

Pea 840 

Poached eggs for... 821 

Pea, split 840 

Pheasant 840 

Potato. 841 

Pumpkin 841 

Rabbit 841 

Raspberry 835 

Rice 842' 

Royal 845 

Sago 842 

Seasoning 820 

Sheeps-head 842 

Spinach 842 

Spring 842 

Sorrel 843 

Sour cream 847 

Strawberry 8.34 

Stock 822 

Swiss 845 

Terrapin, mock 846 

Thick 818 

Thickening for .... 820 

Tomato 843 

Tomato with rice.. ..844 
Tomato, meatless.. .844 



To warm up 992 

Triple 840 

Turkey 844 

Turnips 844 

Turtle 845 

Variety of 819 

Veal 846 

Vegetable 846 

Vegetable, meatless. 847 

Vermicelli 847 

Weimar 847 

White 848 

Wyntoun 848 

SoUP-STOCK. 

Brown 179 

Complex 824 

Economical 824 

Fish 824 

Jelly 823 

Liquid 823 

Medium 825 

Plain 822 

Rich 825 

White 178, 824 

Spiced. 

Sp.\gheti 196 

Spare-rib pot-pie 514 

Blackberries 667 

Cherries 667, 668 

Currants 667 

Elderberries 668 

Goosebe rries 668 

Grapes 668 

Nutmeg-melon 668 

Plums 668 

Peaches 668 

Pears 668 

Tomatoes 668 

Spices, mixed 851 

Spinach 870 

On t ast 870 

When in season 919 

Sponge. 

And bread 20 

Apricot 116 

For winter. 20 

Lemon 115 

Orange 115 

Pine-apple 116 

Peach 116 

Pear 116 

Squash. 

Baked 871 

Cakes 871 

Fried 871 

Patties 871 

Summei 871 

Winter ...871 

When in season 919 

Squirrels, boiled 363 

Stewed 371 

Steak, baked 863 

Stews. 

Arabian 471 

Bean 876 

Brunswick 703 

Cabbage 876 

Corned beef 483 

Creoled 703 

German 703 

Irish 573 

Pea 876 

Potato 876 

Powder for 471 



Spanish 375 

Stirabout 571 

Strawberries 307, 332 

Canned 156 

Frozen 333,334 

Meringue» 333 

Mock 333 

Oranged 333 

With whipped cream333 

When in season 919 

Sturgeon, baked 28» 

Steaks 285 

When in season 919 

Suet, to'clarify 99 

Succotash 872 

Winter 872 

Sugar. 

Caramel... 1.30 

Crackling 130 

Feathered 130 

Spun 130 

Souffle 130 

Threads 142 

To clarify 129 

Sweet-breads 547 

And oyster pie 550 

Baked 547 

Blanching 1049 

Broiled 648 

Croqui ttes 550 

F-icassed 548 

Fried 549 

Fritters 5.50 

Larded 549, 5.50 

Sandwiches 550 

Skewered 549 

Stewed 549 

Vol-au- ve nts 550 

With orange juice 547 

With pease 547 

Syrup. 

Lemon 223 

Maple, to can 15& 

Orange 223 

Touse 149 

Table. 

t;ook3time 913,914 

Of measure 915 

Of weight 916 

Of foods 917,919 

Steamed grain 591 

Tarts. 

Apple 632 

Almond 633 

Chocolate 633^ 

Cocoa-nut 633 

Coventry 633 

Cream 633 

Currant 634,636 

Custard 634 

English banbury 634 

Gutter 635 

Jelly 635 

Lemon 635 

Macaroon 635 

Orange 635 

Prune 636 

Raisin 636 

Raspberry 636 

Rice 634 

Sand 99 

Strawberry 6.36 

Triangle 633 



INDEX TO. COOKERY RECIPES. 



1281 



Taffy. 

Jiyerton 141 

Hickory-nut 142 

Tea. 

A\i lait 215 

Best 205 

Caunister 208 

Cozv 205 

Float 206 

For forty 215 

Jced 212,214 

]/-mon 215 

Making r 204 

Mixtures 207 

Stand 206 

Varieties of 206 

When to drink 204 

Teacup, regulaiion C3 

Tkal 355 

Fried 371 

. Roast ..,.,., 371 

Terrapin. 

Fricasseed 817 

In the shell «17 

Stewed 817 

TlSiANE. 

Pate 223 

Fist 223 

Prune 223 

Toad ia hole 4S2 

Toast 57 

Anchovy 57 

AsparHgus 58 

Breakfast 58 

Butte ed 58 

Cheese and egg 58 

Chicken 58 

Codfish 58 

Cream 58 

Dry 59,60 

Excellent..".'.". .'.'.'.'.".'.'.59 

French 59 

Lemon 59 

Meat 57 

M<irro\v-bone 60 

Mennouite 59 

Oyster 59,60 

Rack 57,1239 

Salmon CO 

Sausage CO 

Tomato 00 

Tongue 60 

Vegetable 57 

Water 60 

Tomatoes. 

Baked 872 

Braised 873 

Candied 343 

Canned 159 

Fried 873 

In brine 880 

Scalloped 873 

Sliced 873 

Ptewed 873 

Stuffed 872 

Toast 874 

With eggs 874 

With gravy 874 

Withmeat ...874 

With onions .874 

With peppers ....873 

With rice 874 

With vinegar. 873 



Page. 

Tongue. 

Baked 492 

Baked , spiced 493 

Boiled 493 

Braised 494 

Fillets 496 

Fried 494 

In Jelly 496 

Larded — 495 

Pickled 494 

Potted 495 

Scalloped 495 

Stewed 495 

Toast 493 

Turkey, 

Boiled 714 

Boned 7i5 

Croquettes .720 

Ga aituue 715 

Jellied 739 

Larded . .716 

Pie 720 

Pressed 701 

Pudding 567 

Ready for plumpiuglO'O 

Roast 717 

Scalloped 719 

8oup 720 

Steamed 719 

Stewed 720 

Toboue 10.^0 

To cut up 10.)0 

Turn-overs 711 

Wild 719 

With celery 714 

Wiih chestnuts 718 

AVith macaroni 714 

AVith oysters 718 

With pork 714 

When in season 919 

Turn-overs 613 

Fruit 620 

Peach 626 

Veal 710 

Trifle 51,102 

Ambushed 123 

French 142 

Lemon 123 

Sugar for 131 

Tripe. 

Baked 496 

Broi ed 497 

Creoled 498 

Fricasseed 497 

Fried 397 

Lyouaise 498 

Pickled 417 

Soused 497 

With onion sauce — 498 

Tkout. 

Baked 277.285,286 

Brook . . . 286 

Boiled brook 280 

Bro led brook 286 

When in season 919 

Turnips. 

Baked 874 

Fricasseed 875 

Fried 874 

Diced 875 

Greens 875 

Mashed '^75 

Pickled 875 

When in season 919 



Page. 

With eggs 875 

Vanity. 

Banana 407 

Chocolate 406,407 

Lemon 400. 4 7 

Orange 406 

Pine-apple 400 

Strawberry 406 

Vanities 298 

Veal. 

And ham 533 

And oysters 533 

Blanquette of 535 

Breastof 535 

Cakes 532 

CoUops 529,583 

Creoled 535 

Curry 530 

Curried 583 

CuUets 530, 531 

Dice 584 

Fillet of 535,637,584 

Fricandeau of 536 

Fricandelles 531 

Fricassee 5.31 

Grenadines of 536 

Hashed 583 

Loaf 532 

Marbled 529 

Masked 577 

Molded 460, 583 

Olives 632 

Ovsters 533 

Pate 532 

Patties 584 

Pie 507 

Pot-pie .5.33 

Potted 460,465,529 

Pudding 584 

Quenelles . . 537 

Ragvutof 510,584 

Relish .584 

Rissoles of 537 

Ro^st 5,30 

With oysters 538 

With rnacaroui 585 

Vegetables 8-52 

Bed of 468 

Colorof 852 

Cutters 852 

Garnishes 978 

Greens 853 

Hash 876 

Kettle 8)2 

Medley .'SO 

Ragout 566 

Steamer for 854 

Stews 876 

Time to cook. ...913, 914 

To cook 852 

To keep 8-53 

To prepare 852 

' Water for 852 

Venison 3."3 

/fllamode 373 

Broiled 371 

Fried .371 

Hashed 371 

Patties 371 

Roast 371 

Stewed 373 

Vinegar. 

Cayenne 669 

Celery 669 



1282 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Cider 669,1008 

Corn 1008 

Chili 669 

Clora 669 

Cucumber 669 

Economical 1008 

Elder flower 600 

Garlic 669 

Gooseberry 1010 

Horse-radish 669 

Mint 670 

Nastunium 670 

Oyster 670 

Peach 670 

Raspberry 222 

Red 670 

Rhubarb loio 

Shallot 670 

Spiced 670 

Tarragon 670 

Walnut 670 

Wafeks 52 



Page. 

Kiss 142 

Sweet 52 

Waffles 51 

Corn 51 

Quick 51 

Raised 51 

Rice 51 

Walnuts 52,339 

Water. 

Apple 223 

Best 209 

Currant 223 

Filtered 209 

Ice-cream soda 224 

Pine-apple 224 

Strawberry 224 

To cool 210 

Water-melon. 

Canned 157 

When in season 919 

Weimarlies 52 

Whitebait, fried 287 



Page. 

Whortleberries 308 

Wonders, Andover 102 

Woodcock. 

Broiled 374 

Fried 374 

Roast 873 

Season for 919 

Yp-ast 53 

Brookside 1008 

Catnip 379 

Dry 53, 54 

Farmer's 55 

Hop 55 

Lightning, 65 

Potato 55 

Potato-ball 56 

Saltless 57 

To freeze 57 

Without hops 56 

Without yeast. . . .56, 379 
Yahoo 57 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



1283 



INDEX— SUPPLEMENTARY. 



Fnge. 

ACCIBKNT8 1 179, 1 182 

Almonds, to buy, .... 1031 

Alum water 
For insects 997 

Anchovies, to buy.. 1027 

Ants, red 943,992 

And Insects 944 

To drive away 12.51 

Apples 1029 

To coolc 1030 

To keep 1030, 1077 

AllTl CLES IN STORE 
ROOM 1076 

Arts of the toilet iiS7 
Ashes FOR walks... 944 
Asthma, to relieve . . .1146 
BAr.iES 

Birtliof 1101 

Care of 1102. 1107, 1108 
nil, 1115 

lives 1104 

Food 1106 

In summer 1117 

Long clothes for 1110 

Milk lor 1103, 1116 

Milk crust 1105 

Navel 1106 

Short clothes for.... 1111 

Snuffles 1105 

Something about llOl 

Sore mouth 1105 

Strangling iu 1104 

Water for 1102 

Worms in 1103 

Barrel, to cleanse.. 1247 

Basket, work 949 

Bath 1191 

Deep leg 1171 

Foot 1170 

Sitz 1169 

Tub 1260 

Vapor llTT 

Bay-rum 1190 

Kei>-BUGS...941, 1239, 1240 

Bedding 1249 

Beef, buying 1021 

Brine for lft">8, 1039 



Page. 

Dried 1638 

Dried, Phila 1039 

Spiced corned 1039 

Spiced stuffed 1039 

To carve 1056 

To cut up 1035 

Steak for winter 1040 

Berries 1029 

Bills of fare 1069, 1070 
For washing day .. . .1082 
Birds 

Carving 1058,1237 

To ship 1025 

Bites of serpents.. 1180 

Of dogs 1181 

Blackheads 1188 

Bj-eeding at nose.. 1145 

Tostop 1145 

Blue, fading 1086 

Board 

Bosom .....1087 

Ironing 1088 

Boilers, to clean — 1086 

Borax 1242 

Bottles, to clean 993 

Books, to preserve — 947 
Box 

Ash lOOO 

Bread and Cake 972 

Ice 1077 

Knife and Spoon.... 972 

Spice 999 

Brawn 1045 

Breath, bad.. . .1188, 1190 
Bread for winter 1067 
Breakfast, summer 962 
Bright's disease. . .11.55 
Broken breasts — 1147 

Brooms 1236 

Holders 12.53 

Broiler, American . . .995 

Dover 1001 

Brush-stand 11S9 

And comb rack 1193 

Scrubbing 1237 

Bulks, Holland 1201 

Ptef reesia Alba 1207 



Page 

Summer 1205 

Burns 1145, 1148, 1151, 1235 

And scalds 1183 

From Acids 1180 

From Alkalies 1180 

Oil for 1150 

Salve for 1147 

Butter 

Artificial 123S 

Bright 1061 

Brine for 1062 , 

Granular lOGl , 1 255 

In summer lOOl 

In wmter lOGl 

Keeping 1061 

Eancid 1061 

Kollers lOGO 

Testing 1060 

To make 10,59 

White sr)ecks in lOGO 

Worked once 1062 

Buttermilk 

Well flavored 1059 

Cabbage 1080 

Calf's feet, to clean 1048 
Calf's head, to buy 1024 

To boHi' 1048 

To clean 1048 

Candles 1239 

Caramels, to stir 991 

Care of cream lOGO 

Care of carriage . . 12.54 

Carpets, cheaii 945 

Dust from 94,3,946 

(i rease from .... 942, 1244 

Ink from 942 

Rags 944 

Stair 9:;2 

To clean 9,32 

To mend 942 

To put down 931, 942 

To renew 1244 

Carrots, to buy 1028 

Casters, 

Sub.stitute for 124,<! 

Catarrh, 1145. 1148. 11.52 
Cubeb berries for,. .1153 



1281 

_ 

CAULTFLOWjat. 

To buy 1028 

Ck lei;y, to buy 1028 

To keep 1058,1201 

Cellar. 

Copiieias in 949 

Floor 917 

Ncut 1075 

To build 1073 

To clean 929, 1077 

To ventilate. . ..1074, 1075 

Up ground 1075 

Ckment. 

Diamond 1215 

For cliina 944, 993 

For cracked stoves 123C 

For dishes 9C5 

For jet 1188 

For rubber 1244 

Good 940 

Valuable 12':2 

CHAIK BOTTOBIS 940 

Chamois leatheu.. .94G 

ClIAIlCOAL, use of 1255 

Chickens, to buy.. ..1025 

Cholera 1214 

Chicadees 1242 

Children. 

Batbing 1105 

Beds for 1145 

CiotbinR for... 1104, 1121 

Constipntion in 1104 

Croup In 1105 

Earache in 1)04 

Ears of 1105,1100 

Food for 10G4, 10G6, HOG 
1125, 1127 

Hot water for 1153 

Indigestion in 1114 

Lice on 1240 

UKt. 913 

Ni-ht dress for 1202 

Pen for liOG 

Stockings 1030,1218 

Teething in 1114 

Where to play 1108 

Chilblains.... 1180, 1187 
Cheese, honiemade . . 1062 

ClIOIvINCl 1180 

Cholera mixture.. 1147 

Andsoft water 1152 

Cider, to keep 1081 

Cistern 125G 

Clinkers, to remove 994 
Clothes 

To put away 946, 949 

Clothino, night 1120 

(hanging 1147 

In \\ inter 1121 

The feet 1122 

Cr.OTH. 

(Jrumb 972 

IMsh 956 

Nap on 1240 

CoAi ,ho\v to use 1004 

Hard and soft 10C4 

COATi VASE 12ri4 

Cockroaches 943 

Coi>, to buy 1027 

Coke 1034 

Co LPS 1122, 1144, 1148, 1149 
1154 

Catarrh 1149 

In head 1149 

Prevent taking 1149 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



Page. 

Water for 1170 

Collars, not fitting. .1192 
Color contrasts... 1246 
Comforters, lieiug.i247 

Best 927 

COMPLE.XTION 1194 

Wash for 1194 

Benzoin for 1194 

C< MPRESSES 1172 

('ONSUMPTION 1157 

Constipation 1148, 115G 

Coral, artificial 914 

Corns, cure for 1150 

CORNBREAD, tOCUt. ..1238 

Corn, dried grated.. .1242 

Cough 1155 

^][ot water for 1147 

Mixture 1152 

Cover 

Flower pot 1208 

For jars 1239 

For milk pans 1210 

Hack for 998 

Under 951 

Cows AND turnips 1242 

Crabs, to buy 1027 

To dress 1052 

Creameries 1061 

Croup 1157 

Bib for 1157 

Cupboard 998 

Baking 997 

Spoon 997 

Custard cups 1238 

Cuts 1145 

Days, rainy 943 

Diarrhoea ,.1154 

Chronic 1145 

Oil for 1150 

Diet 

Errors in 1125 

In disease 1147 

In health 1147 

Dinner 952 

Courses 959, 9G5 

Dessert for 970 

»Hi)stand hostess... ..953 

Hints for 966,907 

Hospitality, vulgar.. 953 

How to give a, 959 

Invitations 953 

Manners at 954 

Of live courses 969 

School 1253 

Dish 

Cloth 1002,1237 

Cloth, wire 9S8 

Drainer 990, 999, 1241 

AVarmer 973 

Washers 988 

Washing 1248 

Diptheria IICO 

AhopaUiy for 1102 

Causes of IICI 

Homeopathy for liCO 

Snlplmrfor 1161 

Water for 1175 

Disinfectant 1250 

Drawer, handy 974 

Dress .•.lli'2 

Art in .1213 

Black as a 1218 

Common 1121 

Economy in 1212 



Page. 

Fitness in 1213 

How to 1212 

How to cut 1221 

How to fit 1223 

How to make 1224 

Making over 1216 

Preltv 1213 

Ilenovatlng, 1225 

Silic, to clean 1089, 1095 
1225 

Satin, tocIea.n 1089 

.Working 1221 

Dres,s-m .vicing 

At home 1218 

Altering black silks 1217 

Bargains 1220 

]5onnets and liats...l216 

Boys wear 1231 

Care of abandoned 

things 1217 

Care of clothes 1214 

Care of kid gloves. .1216 

Care of shawls 1215 

Car^of shoes 1216 

Cashmeres and bro- 
cades 1218 

Cleaning clothing.. .1215 

Crape 1227 

Dyeing ..122T 

Elderly ladies 1232 

G rease spots . . . 1225, 1226 
How to save mate- 
rial 1218 

How 1 o shop 1218 

How to use patterns 1222 

Poverty 1213 

Outdoor costumes 1220 

per Papatterns 1222 

Drowning 1183 

DRUNIci^NNESS 1152 

Di;cKS, to buy 1025 

Wild 1026 

Dust, to remove 943 

Pan 1249 

Dyspepsia 112S 

Easel, tile 1247 

Ear, the 1191 

Foreign bodies in .. .llsl 

Eels, to buy 1027 

Egg-plant 1028 

Eggs, to keep 1243 

Soft 1247 

Erysipelas 1148 

Extr,4.ct, flavoring.. 1004 

Lemon 1005 

Orange 1005 

Eose 1005 

Vanilla 1004 

Eye, lime in 1145 

Blackened 1148 

Dirt in li4G 

Wash 1149, 1240 

Weak 114C 

Face, care of. .1190 

Powder for 1189 

Fainting 1180 

Feathers, to bleach 1257 
Female aveakness 1172 

Feet 1195 

Burninsr 1152 

Frosted 1146 

Felon.. 1158 

Fever and ague 1164 

Bilious 1164 



SirPPLEMENTAKY INTilDX. 



1285 



Congestive li(>5 

liav 1105 

Typhoid ll(;5 

xellow lUi7 

FiLTi'Uis, to cleanse.. loo;5 

Fi,u;lit for life 1 123 

FiiiKS, care of 9S(i 

Coal 1003,1235 

Fisii, taste of 'M2 

81u,il 1052 

To buy 1020 

To ca;-ve lODS 

White 1028 

Flkas, to drive off ..: 913 
FuKS, to keep oil: .. ..1235 

Flooiis, to oil 12.57 

Flowkks .......1U)7 

Arliiieial 1253 

Chinese I'riuu'Obe. ..1207 

Ci-ab Cactus 1208 

Earth worms in 1207 

Fresh 1209 

Fusehia 1208 

Ivfi^s 1207 

Lily of tile valley .... 1207 

I'ols ...1207 

Koot 980 

Hiips 1209 

Soot for 1208 

Spring 1201 

Stand 1209 

FLOUK and ISEEAD..1005 

Sacks 1249 

To buy 1032 

Fluid. 

Erasive 1089 

Washing 10D7 

Fly PAPiiK 1237 

Food. 1190 

Amount of 1125 

Clienii.stry of 1064 

Different 1069 

Flesh 1127 

For Brain AVorkers.1126 
For si::k..ll2C, 1132,1134 

Iron in IOCS 

I'eetlnein 1068 

Terlect 1064 

(Jnality of 1004 

Kicli 1127 

Sulphur in 1008 

• Vari e ties of . » 1 120 

fomkn t \t10>s 1171 

Foot muff 1239 

Stools 1249 

FouKiGN Bodies 

In ear 1181 

lu eye 1181 

III nostril 1181 

For the sick 

Acid drink 1133 

Air 1129 

Alum whey 1134 

Arrowroot blanc- 
mange 11.37 

Arrowroot custard . . 1 1 o(i 

Articles 1129 

Articles easily di- 
gested 1142,1143 

Balscd milk 1134 

Barley water 1135 

Beef broth 1140 

Beef raw 1134.1142 

Beef tea... 1141, 1142,1145 
Beef tea raw 1134 



rage. 

Beef tea soup li35 

Blackberry cordial . .1 140 

Blackberry wine 1137 

r.oiled Hour 1142 

r.rau biscuit 1139 

Broiled beefsteak. ..1138 

Broiled cli!c!:cn 1136 

Bulteruii!knnilled..ll35 
I'.utterniilk stew.... 1134 

Cinnamon tea 1130 

Cliicl<en brolli. 1131, 1138 

tl;im br-jlh 113G 

Com moil sense 1144 

Corn meal gruel 1141 

Craciced wheat pud- 
ding 1138 

Cream soup Ii34 

Crust colli e H^l 

Currant shrub ll35 

Egg gruel 1134 

English gruel 1135 

Fever drink 1135 

Fruit fauna 1133 

(!ood toast 1140 

(irahani gcins 1136 

Crease from brotiis.1134 

Jellies Ils5 

KuniysH toniake... 1138 
Ix-mon egg nog . .. ..1138 
Meat, for invalids. ..1140 
Milk porridge.. 1135, 1139 

Muttoubrolli 1138 

Mutton tea 1142 

Oatmeal ijlancinange 

1135 

Oatmeal cakes 1137 

Oatmeal crackers. ..1141 
Oatmeal pie crust.. .1137 

Oatmeal relish 1139 

Oatmeal wafers 1140 

Oliltime food 1141 

I'anaila 1130 

rarclied rice lUv4 

riepared flour 1139 

Toadied egg 1137 

Itaspberry relish 1134 

Itiee jelly 1136 

Bice water 1142 

Sago custard 1 134 

Sago jc'Uy pudding. .1136 

Sassa'fras drink 1134 

Sea moss farine 1135 

Stewed oysters 1139 

Strawberry acid 1137 

Tapioca jelly 1136 

Tamarind wiiey 1134 

Uncooked egg 1 138 

Vegetable soup 1135 

Wanning cup 1135 

Wlieat pudding 1134 

Wine whey 1134 

Fjsames 1181 

Flies olf gilt.. £43 

I'uttv off window 943 

liustic 944 

Fkeckles 1189, 1193 

Freezing li8i 

Fruit, to buy 1029 

Gathering 1078 

Slielves lO'i 

Sun printing en 1255 

To keep 1C7S 

FUEl , 

comparative value of 920 

FULLER'8 PUEIFIEK 1248 



Page. 

Furniture, to buy.. S24 

I'illing 1238 

Polish 932,1239 

Polish, magic 938 

Spots on 1238,1245 

To refniisli .. 041 

Varnished .1l42 

Furs, care of C35 

L)y i s for 1252 

Game, to iircseive — 1024 

lo buy 1C25 

To carve 1 (57 

Gapes .- 1-54 

Garden, bulbs for. ..l-Ol 

Flowers 1137 

Out-door 1199 

To plant ill 12(0 

Windows i::c8 

Garments, outside.. 1241 

Garnishes AND 

SAUCES 975 

For lish 976 

For game 977 

For meat 076 

For poultry 977 

For sah.d 978 

For vegetables 978 

Cas-lighter l'-36 

Gathering, chronicll48 

Geese, to buy K25 

To carve 1058 

General Sugges- 
tions 940 

Glue 1236 

Grain, weight of 1245 

Grares, tobuy 1C30 

To keep 107? 

Grease, 

10 remove 1CS6, 1095 

To cleanse IICO 

Gridiron, cure of... 994 
Groceries, 

to buy 1031,1194 

Hair, dar.diulf in.. ..li£8 

FaUiiig out 1240 

Food for 11S9 

Oils 1188 

Superfluous.... 1190, 1244 

Tonics 1187 

Wash 1243 

Hams, to select 1023 

Buckeye 1042 

Philadelphia, 1043 

Smah 1043 

Suggestions for 1C43 

Tocarve 1C56 

Tocure 1C41 

To keep 1044 

To soak 1C42 

Virguiia 1043 

Witli vinegar 1043 

\'ork 1043 

Hands 1191 

and face 1188 

Chapped . . 1K5, 1151, 1241 

Stains on 1189 

Hanging H8i 

Hat bands, 

to renovate 1245 

Headaches 1107 

Heart, palpitation of 1168 

Hearth, cheap 1251 

Heater, grate 997 

Table 998 

Herring 1128, 1244 



1286 



SUPPLEMENTAllY INDEX. 



Hemorrhages 1184 

HlCliOllY MUTS, 

To fi-cshen 1242 

Hints, Floni! 1207 

About nKUketiii;:. ..1021 

For the well 1119 

For sick room 1129 

To employer 1017 

To employed 1019 

Hinges, creaking — 943 

Hoarseness 1146 

Hot water 1153 

House, burning 1181 

Heat for 924 

Insects 1251 

House cm;aning 928 

Best way of 930 

Fall 934 

Dots 937 

How to beain 929 

Housekeepers' al- 
phabet 950 

Housekeeping, 
An aeconipli.shmcnt 922 

How to learn 922 

Wrong ideas of 923 

Hydrphobia 1258 

Ink, black 1240 

Indelible 948 

White 1239 

Insurance 1244 

Iron, rust 1089 

Eust in 1235 

Rust from 1237 

To clean Ilussia 1236 

Irons to clean 1085 

Arrange 1241 

Care of 1094 

Flat 1087 

From scorching 1085 

Ironing, 1085 

Cuffs and collars.. ..1086 

Day 1084 

Jars, to cleanse 994 

To wash 999 

Jaundice 1145, 1158 

Jewelry, 
to cleanse 1187.1191 

KALSOMlNINCi 93G 

Kettle, 

to clean 989,996,1239 

Kicking coav 1237 

Kid gloves l'237 

Kid shoes 1188 

Kindlings, to make 995 

Kitchen 982 

Apron 986 

Eeonomv in..930, 991, 1247 

Floors of 982 

Lamps for 983 

Mat 986 

Pantry 983 

Sink 989 

Steamer 985 

Systematic 982 

Triiy 986 

Wrinkles 991 

Knives, care of 986 

And spoon tray 986 

Cement for 994 

Chopriing 998 

Handles 1237 

Onion 989 

Paring 983 

PoUtO 989 



Page. 

Kuston 994 

To clean 903 

Labor-saving con- 

tkivances 949 

Laces, lo clean 1088 

To pack 1248 

To wash 1093 

LMP.,tobuy 1023 

Toearve 1055 

Lamp, care of 984 

Chimnevs i>i4 

Fixtures 1248 

Lighter 1235 

Wicks 945 

Lantern, good 998 

Lard, trying 1044 

Laundry, the 1082 

Dots 1085 

Tubs 10S2 

Leaks 1082 

In chinnieys 1236 

In roofs 1235 

Leanness 1190 

Le.wes, lo press 1208 

Extension 974 

Lemons, to use 993 

Best 1030 

Life-preserver 11T9 

LitiHTs, taper lir>3 

In cistern 1237 

Lighting rod 1257 

Lighting cream 945 

Lilies 1200 

Lime, in cans 1237 

Water 1257 

Linen to Bleach. ..1246 

Liniment 1145, 1146 

Aliier 1150 

Ciierokee 1147 

Magic 1151 

Liquid, soldering 1002 

Lobster, lo buy 1027 

Todress 1052 

Lock-j '. w 1152 

Lounge, home-made. 1251 
Lunch 

Summer 968 

Winter 971 

Mackerel, salt 1028 

Mat, long 124t) 

Door 948 

Economical iUST 

Table 972 

Matches, friction 1242 

Match SAFE 1246 

M attr ks ks 927 

Cover for 928 

Marble, care of 939 

Oil troin 1238 

To clean 1237 

MAR.JORAM 10.32 

Meals, number of 

1119, 1127 
Mea l. Buckwheat. ... 1031 

Com 1032 

Oat 1031,1081 

Meats, curing.. .1037, 1261 

In hot weather 1040 

Without curing 1039 

Measures 995 

Medicine, to drop. ..1149 

Spoon 1241 

M klted snow 1235 

Mending 944 

Menstr uation 1150 



Page. 

Mice 1236 

Mil DEW, to take out. 1086 

Milk, straining 1060 

And manna 1146 

MiRROiis, to clean 934 

Mixture, cleaning. .. 938 

Moles 1189,1239 

Mosquitoes . . . .1188, 1243 

Moth 931, 934, 1240 

Patches 1188 

mucilage 1243 

Muslin, to bleach.... 109S 

Mushrooms 1028 

Mutton, to buy 1023 

Tocutup 1037 

To carve 1055 

Nails, to drive 1235 

Neuralgia 1149 

Nipples, to harden... 114.^ 

Sore 1146 

Nose 1191 

Oil, to take out 1085 

In food ^067 

Proportion of •l067 

OiiX'LOTHS, to clean.. 938 

Oil-rubs 1174 

Ointment 

Camphorated 1148 

(lolden 1155 

Itch 11.50 

Magnetic 1151 

Olives 10.33 

On IONS, to keep 1080 

Flavor 1240 

Odors 1236 

Oranges, to buy 1030 

Oysters, to buy 1028 

Overshoes 1237 

Packs 1173 

Pail, shrinking of 943 

Pour 1174 

Pains 1146 

Paint 

Brushes 1243 

Buckets 1239 

Color of 1236 

i)ry 1236 

Smellof 944 

Todry 1245 

To take out 1086 

WlienKi 1235 

Painting 936 

Care of 939 

To clean before.. 938, 939 
Pan 
Crumd brush and... 972 

New tin 985 

Pancake ijfxer — 995 
Paper 

Cases 973 

On tin 946 

Papering 937 

Papered wall, to . . . 

clean 940 

Parcels, care of 944 

Parties, Breakfast.. 955 

Even ing 955 

Partridge, to carve. 10.58 

Paste, good 1235 

Everlasting 1247 

Perpetual 948 

Peaches 10.31 

Pears 1031 

Pearls, to keep 1187 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



1287 



Page. 
Peas, to buy 1029 

To keep , laso 

Peppkk, whiUi 1053 

Pkufumeuy 119G 

Pheasant, to carve.. 1058 
Piano 

To keep and dust... <)2C 

Pi ECE-15A<iS 1245 

Pictukes, to hang. .. 945 

Piles 146 

Plants, beddiuu, 20a 

Hiuts about 209 

House 210 

Witliout a tire 207 

pLASTKiiS, nuistard.. 151 
Plasteuoe Pakis.. • 

lueuding 945 

PLACQIJE hanger. ..1250 

Pleuklsy 1145 

Pocket 

Apron 984 

Clotlies-pin 1091 

Duster 92S 

Shoes 949 

Poison, autidotes to. .1185 

Polishing 998 

Iron 1085,1087,1090 

.Shirts 1087 

PouK,tobuy 1023 

Pickled 1042, 1044 

To carve , 1056 

To cut up 1037, 1041 

Potatoes 1029 

To deep 1080 

Poultry, to dress. ..1049 

Food lor 1239 

To marlvet 1033 

Po under, clothes 1096 

Prints, to wash 1093 

PuMrs, to thaw out.. .1245 
From freezing 1242 

Quails 1058 

QUINCY 1146 

llABP,iT.s, to carve 1056 

raisins 1032 

Rashes 1153 

Rats 1238 

Tiap 1249 

Red edges ®n books.. 1244 
Refrig-eratok, to clean 
12.'57 

Register, safe 1253 

Rheumatism... 1145, ii.5i 

Rice 1032 

Ring, napkin 973 

Room, to clean 926 

Bath 928 

Bed 926 

Books in each H28 

Closet in bath 928 

Dining ,9.51 

Finish for 947 

Guest 92? 

Sewing 928 

Sick -. 1129 

Sitting 926 

Store 1075 

To dust 925 

Rope, new 1252 

Rose slugs 1207 

Roup 1252 

Rugs, rag 945 

RrsT, on plows 1248 

Sal\ e for burns . . .1149 
Buckeye 1150 



Page. 

Castle 1261 

Conklius 1150 

Healing il58 

Sa lt, too much 992 

in milk gravy 992 

For preserving meat 1037 

Scale.s, good 999 

Scallops, to buy, 1028 

Scarlet fever 1109, 1159 
SCORTCH, to take out. 1029 

Screens 1250 

Screws, rusted 944 

Seeds, to keep 1238 

To sfart 1250 

Self posession 1179 

Shelves, hanging.... 1261 

Sheets, care of 944 

Shirts, to do up 1098 

Shirt bosoms 

Enamel for 1088 

Todo up 1097 

Shocks 118O, 1182 

Shinglp:s 1236 

Shoes, blacking for. .1188 

Care of 1247 

Castor oil for 1188 

Durable 1238 

Shrubs 1204 

Sickroom 

Disinfectant for 1133 

Neatness in 1130 

Quiet in 1130 

Small lamp for 1131 

Utensils in 1131 

Wash for 1133 

Sick-headache 1145 1147 
Side-board, dustless 973 

Silk, to keep 1243 

Tar from 1240 

Silverware, .... 944, 947 

1235, 1237. 
Sink, moveable....... 996 

Iron 996 

Skin, to protect 1148 

Sleeplessness, 1147 

1154, 1241 
Sleeve-protector.. 1241 

Smells, bad . ; 944 

Snow ON roof 1241 

Socks to darn 12.39 

Soap 943 

Bark , 108O 

Boiled HOC 

Boiler 1260 

Economy in 993 

Extract of 1088 

Family 1099 

Gall 1091 

Hard 1032 

Hard time 1089 

Sun 1099 

Yankee shaving 1189 

Sore throat 1148 

1150, 11.54, 1159. 
Spatula for tongue . . 1162 

Sponge, to soften 1255 

Basket , ..1191 

Sprains,.. 1146, 1147, 1151 

Stains, berry 1236 

Egg 992 

Fruit 1190 

Ink 933 

Ink from wood,. ..938 939 

Nitrate of silver 1088 

On books 1235 



Page. 

Tea 992 

Stammering 1146 

Starch 

Coffee 1089 

Fine 1093 

Flour 1098 

Stiff-joints 1145 

Stings, bee ii48 

Of insects 1179 

Stoves, care of 938 

Gas 996 

Holders 993 

Oil 996, 1253 

Polish 1235, 1243 

Trimmings 1237 

STRAW,bleaching 1246 

Suffocation ii83 

Sugar, kinds of 1068 

Best 1033 

In food 1067 

To buy 1033 

To preserve meat.. .1038 
Vanilla io05 

SWEETBREADS.tO buyl024 

To bhiUch 1049 

Table 
Clothes, to clean .... 1000 

Clearing 956 

Cover 994 

Folding 999 

For dinner sng 

Leaves 972 

Linens 1002 

Mats 972 

Movable 1247 

Of foods ..1070, 1071, 1072 

Of starch 1066 

Ornament 973 

Outfit 955 

Toilet ..1193 

Ware, wire 992 

Tea, to keep 991 

Clover 1152 

Ground 993 

^Tobuy 1032 

Teeth 1192, 1193 

Terrapins, to buy . . .1028 

Todress .1053 

Tetter 1188 

Tin, to mend 944 

To prevent rusting.. .997 

Toscour 1235 

Tomatoes 1029 

Tongue, to buy 1O23 

To pickle 1038, 1040 

Depresser... ii62 

Toothache 1146, 11481156 

Trichinae 1145 

Tripe, to clean 1041 

To buy 1041 

Turnips 1029 

Turkeys, to buy 1025 

Boiled 1057 

Itoast 1057 

Tocarve 1054 

Umbrella stand ...1254 

Under-cover 951 

Utensils, cooking.. . 98? 

Ice cream 10I6 

Kitchen 1014 

V eal, to buy 102a 

To carve 1055. 114S 

To cut up 103! 



1288 



SUPPLKMENTARY INDEX. 



Pu^c. 
Vegetap.i^ks 
Mode of preparing ..913, 
914 

Packing lOSl 

Salad Wi<l 

Time to cool< 913, 914 

Time to digest .. .913, 914 

To buy 1028 

To keew 1080,1081 

Vklvkt, to restore.. .1086 
Vkins, varicose 1144 

Vknison, to buy 1026, 1056 

To carve 1055 

Ventilation 1121 

Vrntilatou 1243 

ViNK.s, climbing 1202 

Waiters, instruction 

to 9G0 9G4 

Walks, to keep clean 1236 

Warts 1189 

Wash-basins 1244 

Beucli 1087 

Washtno. 

Blankets 1091 

Brown linen. 10?0 

Black dresses 1090 

Cashmere 1089 

Cambric 1093 

Colored muslin 1090 

Day 1082 

Disbes 990 



Page. 

Dish-wipers 1089 

Delii ate iiiuslius 1091 

Feathers 1087 

Fluid 933 1090 

Gloves 1090 

Lace 1093,1094 

Lace curtains 109(.! 

Lace rucliiugs 1092 

Lawn 1094 

Light fabrics 1093 

Milk, for 1087 

Ited table linen 1086 

liibboDs 1090 

Silk dress 1092 

Silklulkf 1093 

Silk underwear ....1091 

Thread lace lOflO 

To preserve colors. .1087 
1089 

With turpentine 1092 

Woolen goods, 1093, 1097 

Waste pipes, to 

clean 940 

W.\trk, coi)peras 993 

Cabbage 997 

Poisonous 99G 

Pure 1001 

To keep ice, 945 

To soften....943, 944, 994 
Treatment 11 09 

Weatheh stkips .... 1256 



Page. 

AVeeds, to destroy 944 

Wens : 1147 

Weights and meas- 

■ uuRS F915, 916 

Whitewash, hard. .. 938 
When food is in — 

season 917,919 

Wine, unlermented . . 124.'> 
Whooping cough. ..1149 

1156 
Windows, to wasli 931 , 938 

Hook 1249 

ley 943 

Kitchen 997 

Mica 1241 

To clean 992 

Wood 1241 

Ebonizing 1237 

Piling 1242 

To buy. 1034 

To harden 12a5 

Wool, to cleanse 1246 

WOK.'MS. 

Cabbage 1241 

In horses 1246 

On gooseberries 1082 

Tape 1149 

Wokk-baskkt 949 

WoiTND,poisonous 1179 

From rusty nail 1146 

Punctured 1182 



